The New York herald., 1869-09-12
THE FASHIONS.

From lie Folet OF Paris, August SOL
IT is no easy task to be chronicer OF the fashions
at this OF the year. The fashionable world s
scattered, enjoying invigoraing sea Dreezes de-
lightfui mountain air; some content with the quiet
calm Of country life, others seeking strength
drinking the waters" and participating In the vari-
gayeties which usually characterize the lovely
places noted for their heath-evlng waters. When
1t Is remembered tnat Ia mole Is supposed to pro-
vide different style for each, and that that
which is appropriate for one watering place Is not
'tne thing" Tor another. we are readers will
endorse our opening sentence.
TO be truthful we must admit that most fanctful
and exaggerated costumes seel; out equally
truthfuly may we affirm that the real lady avoids
eXaggeratiOn and eccentriclty dress, and OF
tie most elegant toilets not only the simplest.
but the least costly. IL ID q well-uncerstOod lining
that far more dependson the make and general nnish
the dress than the COstliness Of the material;
and MOI little OF the effect pieasing or otherwse)
Is produced by the make OF tue pettcoats-avoiding
c0untrywomen and the frRhtIuhy uDgracetul tourn-
ure adopted by others. Light and thin materials are
OF course, when destined mercy for evening
wear or Tor ceremonial vislts WRlte ecru or maize
are the shades generally preferred. These are
trimmed In variety or fashions, back vevet still
beIng the most usual trimming. Nalenclennes Ia
also much used IN combination with the velvet.
Plated founces remain mucn In vogue China
Grape, chalis and striped sultane make the most
elegant costume. Crepe de sole, loulard, plque,
batlste, toile, percale, and cashmere with taletas
all worn. White Is above all suitable for seaside
wear, almost every cO.0r being more less injured
by the sea air PLAIN black gauze trimmed with
black, worn over skirt OF light cOOred silk s very
pretty. There are also some very elegant dresses
made OF black tue, embroidered with bouquets Of
co!ored owers, some with large panses, with their
foage, the pattern running crossways on the skirt;
Others with MOWERS OF variety OF colors. These are
made en- tuniQue over skirts OF back. white or
colored SILK. Upper short dresses OF black taetas
are found extremely useful especially for travelling;
they can be worn with variety oI under skirts and
make a nice change OF toilet. Tafetas is coming
H. "
from the fact Of It's being liable TO crumpe and
tear than thinner materials, necessltatlng such ire
guent clangeoW ind not unfrequeQtly that UNDER
skirts are trimmed with three byulllonnes, with
heading II the upper skirt be or leno pale cOlored
barege or sultane the b0uilonnes are headed with
narrow fringe valenclennes; II the color be dark
shade, with q narrow Dlack gulpure, or simply
binding OF tafretas at each edge English popln WIN
be fashionable for autumn wear. ON this black vel
Vet and N8enclennes are used IN trmmlnR; the vel
vet laid on In nounces, which are scallODed and the
lace sewn on the edge OF the scallops. Poplin and
CASHMERE very suitable for snort costumes:
for instance, the under skirt made Of popIin White
striped with color. the nounce or nouaces piped
with silk the color OF the stripe. The upper SKIRT
or plain CASHMERE matching the srlpe trimmed
with Plsses, or with thicx chenille fringe. and
sides, according TO taste. Piald also likely 70 be
IN favor as the season advances. Scarlet, mauve
and sky blue under skirts are worn by ladies' at
the sea sde but In ihs the upper skirt should
be OF either gray or black.
The most simple evening dress at the watering
places s = skirt OF light silk with q thin ni2h tunc
white or matching the under skirt opened in front
and with sash OF silk.
We will now endeavor to give q description OF
some OF the most usefu, pattern toilets. costume
OF nankeen plque or batisDe; the under skirt Just
escaping the ground, trimmed with plisse or a
medium width; upper skirt trimmed TO match ttne
plsse being narrower, looped up at each side In
three large paits, festooned by motner-ot-pearI
also fnisned BY a button. lie body opened en-
cgur. with small basouine trimmed round with
narrow pllsse. Tlgh! sleeves with monsquetaire
cun, edged vita plisse and with o narrow guipure
put on Just easy; gupure TO inatch round tue open
ing OF tue body. Sasl o. black gros g ain SILK A
costume OF lilac aud drab shot six; tue skirt Just
Touching the ground, and trimmed with several nar-
row nounces. Body opened square, and basques cut
up ard turned back. sleeves half tIglt ana rather
VIDE AT tie bottom. Body ami sleeves trimmed
Win narrow frill. Costume OF plain WnIte
barege, made With ave douuces. BasQu ne OF striped
lilac and white barege, with two sultl baa4ues las
tened on the body, which ia cut square and fu.l In
the front White scarf sash Of white tuile matching
the hcDu worn under tue body Seaslde costume
Under skirt OF white serge, with three nounces edged
win BLACK velvet, tunlc rounded In 'front.', made
q double panler behind trimmed witn one nounce;
blaca velvet SASH, win three bows without ends
very short veste, with rcvers OF black selvet. Cos
OF cerse coored tafIetas trimmed with
oack sese sepon cn1n put on IN ts sspes senawy
upper skirt OF black silk, loOpei up en- pa,lter by o
large bow OF back velvet. feerine Of black six,
plated III 'front.' ana opeled Ike the uchus Ia pIyS.
lane, Costume OF pearl gray poplin; under SKIRT
trimmed win three rows OF wide black velvet
Metternich mantle OF popiin, fastened at the waist
oy black velvet sash, aud trtnmed with wide
black Chenille fringe. Black velvet buttons.
Costume OF white percale; nine narrow flounces,
edged with Naencennes. Casaqne OF the same,
with two nounces Wide scarf SASH OF red green
Ind white plaid Costume OF brown tafYetas; skirt
With several narrow Gounces edged with cashmere
)f the same color; the same cashmere forming
oasques, which are trimmed with silk fringe. Tai
etas sash, trimmed with cashmere. Evening dress
u white muslin over rose-colored silk The muslin
,kirt Is trimmed with gathered nouncc, vandyked
1t each edge, and Is short enough to show the
plated n0unce Of the under skirt. Two long pates
founded and trimmed with lace, full on each side
lpon which are placed three bouquees OF flowers
Pun OF muslin, forming panler ana looled up by
bouInet OF flowers. Rose talfetas body cut square
md low. Chemisette OF white muslin, open and
crossed in 'front.' bouquet ct the side. Snort sleeves.
Robe OF white tarletane, draped with hanging bows
)f blue satin. Upper skEt OF white taIletas with
pouf behind trimmed with ruche OF blue satin.
Low body and basques trimmed to match. Ficnu Of
plated tue'uDder the body. There Is little to say
about bonnets for the present month, a. hats take
I'D the attention Of most modstes at this season.
BnAvE BOY STARRED