The weekly clarion., 1869-12-02

| a set OF asCrachan, fringed, graV. black. or
! white. and consisting of a round collar and
muff, from fifteen to twenty five They are
not SO durable AZ mink, but they are dressy.
ana usually becoming. and the black is now
adopted tor mourning, extensively.
ar evluence OF the growth in luxury, is
| the Idet tnat sable Is so much more in de-
mand than formerly. 1t Is rarely seen in
| closks but it forms beautiful and costly
little sets for visiting and carriage wear, and
Is USED Tor trimming costly silk and velvet
The handsomest suit imported this season
was OF blue silk and velvet, trimmed with
| sable fringe
| White furs-ermine. astrachan and the sill
| yer IbX-are considered bad taste for the
| promenade, but they figure largely in visit
| ing, receptions, natinees. and evening opera
| and concerts.
As carriage wrap, some OF the elegQntes
are affecting striped velvet, lined with fur,
and arranged as a burnOus.
Chlnchllla Is an exquIsitely fine and soft
| fur, and Is used upon suits composed of ma
| room velvet and satin with charming effect;
| but the cost Is the annual income of some
people who do not consider themselves ex-
| tctly poor, and he service obtained very
| small in com pariSOn.
Among the handsome suits exhibited by
! Arnold & Constable is one OF claret-colOred
satin and velvet, trimmed with Alaska sa-
| ble, and founcing below of black guipure
| ace.
They have also cloth coats. with deep
SnPCo Sut OpCH on the DdGks anu Trim -neU
| With the fur.
| Rich suits of silk and velvet, DISPLAYED at
the same establishment, consist of velvet
| skirt (walking length.) redingOte of heavy
Olack silk, and collar, or pointed hood, and
pdHler OF black velvet, all trimmed prOfuse-
iy with deep guipure lace. The cost is $500
each. For trimmed $500.
The most fashionable design for suits now
Is the round skirt ahd rediHgOte, or PolOnaise
as it is called by some, although it is not "A
Polonaise. is cut all in one. skirt and body.
while the Teding0te has skirt which is cut
separate from the body, and is generally
made with distinctive cuffs and rererS.
TARTANs
The word tartan does not refer to any par
ticular fabric, but to the various cOubina-
Cions of colors and patterns adopted as a
distinguishing mark by the different High
land clans. The colors and lines of many of
the original tartans are copied faithfully in
modern serges and poplins. Ladies who
wear plaid garments should know what tar
tan they have assumed. hence we give the
cOlors of most of those worn at present OF
the blue aud green tartans now so fashiona-
ole, the Sutherland, or Forty is the
taVOrite. 1t is composed entirely of blue
and green, and in the true tartan every line
of the plaid is repeated, whether the blocks
are large or small This tartan is the base
of many others; for example, the Suther-
land with white cross bars forms the Camp
DELL tartan, with yellow bars the Gordon,
with red the Mcdonald, with both red and
yellow the Farquharson. with red and white
the Mckenzie. These are the plaids most
worn for street suits.
Among the gay plaids chosen for shawls
and burnouses, the Stewart is the favOrite
1t has large scarlet blocks with crossing
lines of yellow, white. Black and blue. The
Mcintosh is similar tar tai, " ith yellow in
it. The McFarlane has red ground barred
with green, white and blue. Tpe Victoria
plaid, named in compliment to the Queen.
who prefers IL to any other, / the original
dress tartan of the Stuart elan, with white
ground instead of red. tbs bright plaid,
like the scarlet and black Rob Roy, is popu-
lar for shawls and for children's clothing.
French poplins in tartan colors are sold for
| children's best dresses.
For plaid suits there should be two skirts,
| the lowest one trimmed With bias f1ounce
| live inches wide. vandyked on each edge.
aud bound with al paca braid; the upper
| skirt is merely Vandyked. Scotch suits are
also made with two or three flounces. with
| Two rows of velvet between. Very narrow
satin galloons in tartan colors are sold for
| trimming self-colors.
EVENING DRESSES.
Evening dresses for ceremonious parties
may be either quite short or very long. For
| dancing dresses. short skirts with the train
that may be carried over the arm are par
| ticL larly appropriate. Tunics, over dresses,
| panier skirts, lOoped in the Pompadour style.
| low round bo9ices, and the Maria Theresa
| dress of last season. are all repeated.
A trained skirt of single color, with
| POmpadour over dress OF white. striped
| With bright colored satin else chene, with
| flowers in their natural TINS. Is good
model.
Long skirts have from one to three side
| gores-only one being used for slight figures,
| and three sloped widths for larger persons.
| China Grape is the handscmest material for
| tuncs, but few dresses are made of it en-
| tirely. 1t measures yard and three-quar-
| ters in width, and may be had in all the
| light delicate tints. The appropriate trim
minps are fiounces of itself and Valencien-
nes lace. 1t is much used abroad for trim
ming light silks of the same shade.
TUNES are also made of the grenadine
came. silver Llama and tulle Bindings and
bows of velvet trim handsome evening
dresses of corded silk.
Old silk and satin dresses are very readily
freshened up In the present fashion by new
overdress or different arrangement of the
trimming.
In the form nfsleeves. change has re-
Gently been introduced. They are now wide
at the ends. and not shaped TO the elbow -
The sleeves are not very long, and are fin
ished with rather a broad hounce or plisse.
Corsages are worn open. with gilets under
them.
Black dresses are still lightly fashionable
and black dress is USUALLY accompanied by
three cilets to taffety OF different colorS- VIZ
one mink, one blue, and third mauve. to be
worn as choice may dictate. The adoption
of any one of these gilets gives totally diff
ferent aspect to the toilette.
The colored gilet may be ornamented with
narrow frills or bias bands of black tatfety.
and the camargo may be trimmed with mar
row frills of taffety corresponding in color
with that of the gilet-
Black velvet Is highly fashionable Dotn lot
trimming dresses and hats.
Among the dresses in fashionable we'd
ding trousseau, we noticed one of aVeDtu-
rine fave. the corsage being ornamented
xrifh
color. The sleeves have broad revers OF
| ayenturine velvet. The camargo is very
short and trimmed with fOunce of faye
edged with narrow velvet. The hounce
which edges the jupon Is in CORES spending
styles.
ming every kind of material.
Dresses OF transparent texture are TRIM
ned with velvet, and the lace of gauze bon
| nets of brides are frequently edged with vel
vet and fastened by large bow OF the
same.
Another elegant dress in the same trous-
seau, presents some character of novelty. 1t
| is composed of cerulean blue taffety. The
! corsage was trimmed with broad bands of
| blue velvet and had large revers. The cos
tune of pearl gray taffety. In the same col
lection, was trimmed with pink faye The
| gilet was of the same; and the narraw frills
| at the end of the sleeves. and at the bottom
| of the skirt, were of pearl gray tafiety, inter-
| mingled with pink faye.
When the pink gilet is not intended to be
| worn, fichu of tulle or of rich needlework
is substituted for it; and manchettas OF lace
or neediework may be attached TO the ends
of the sleeves.
The Hungarian jacket for indoor wear 10
pretty. lt IL made ofgray cloth. very short,
and followed into the back; the border ~
has square pockets, trimmed with feathers.
the front with macarons Of gimp. sleeves,
pagoda shaped.