The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1869-11-29
THE FASHIONS.
Rvenlna Drcsscs-IScreptiOu and Dinner Toi-
IeItes--A Bridnt TrOnsscHu.

lipht CUR, cnlled skin-color brilliant car
mine shade is found magnificent by gaslight,
and light reddish purple, like intense fiery
amethyst. There is a soft light about these
shades which requires the semi-transparency
of lace alone to complete the refinement. The
colored fringes and heavy trimmings are pre-
served for dinner and reception toiettes of
the stronger tints, scarlet, coral, Lucifer, vio-
kne, and golden orange.
Poult de sole and satin with Grape de CLINE
over-dresses are in the first mode as materials
for evening toilet. Tulle composes lighter
costumes, and organdy is used for very young
ladies. Brocaded stripes and moires with
plain poult de soies are in order for reception
dresses. White tGtctas gl1co with two-inch
stripes of gay brocaded garlands are $3.50 a
yard. White silk with stripe of plush and
satin in scroll work is 50 a yard. II comes
with stripes of light blue, rose color, and
canary. Mores are from - to Sl3 a yard.
GT0s GBaPerdtrtcc is white silk much ad-
mired for bridal dresses; it has thick shining
cords on the surface, heavier than velours,
$13 per yard. Satin dTIollande is much pre-
ferred for ball costumes to the heavy satins;
the face is finer than ordinary, and the goods
are reversible, the back showing the surface
of heavy silk a shade darker than the satin.
Price, So
The heart-shaped and Raphael corsages are
the STYLE, cut very low in front and behind,
with lace chemisettes. The pointed corsage
is seen as we'll as the round one. Basques
are made for dinner dresses Sleeves come
half way below the elbow, with deep lace
frill, and are sometimes extended with pull
incs of tulle to the wrist The shoulder
strap is no longer worn by ladies of good
style. The medieval sleeve with elbow-puff
is becoming only to long arms, Trains are
shortened; the regulation length is G5 inches.
The width of skirt for full dress is 81 yards
The front is gored, and the two side widths;
two back breadths are plain. This is for yard
wide material. Long round tunics are now
in lieu of paniers, and the art with which they
are looped tests the skill Of the modiste.
Louis Quinze over-sllirts, looped high in the
centre behind falling in long wings on the
laps, are suitable for reception dress of rich
silk over velvet. The fancy prevails of loop
ing the sides and trimming them in different
fashions. One side is raised in a puff, the
other falls in drapery.
Trimmings of material in the shape of
pinked pleatings, self-fringes, and quillings
are chosen as the alternative of thread lace,
black and white, moss fringe, feather bands
and white bullion with gold mixed and
sparingly used Later in the season passe-
menterie will be very much in vogue. This
is given on the authority of the first modiste
in the city. Marabout fringes are effective
on crepe, and ostrich bands are occa-
sionally used as headings for lace.
An elegant reception dress is canary -colored
poult de sole, the deep founce cut into
squares at the top and edged with black lace.
The tunic is raised in round puff behind
and on the right, while it falls, wing-like, at
the left. A deep hounce of thread lace is
gathered round the puff, and the raised front
is filleted with lace bands and edged with
fall finger deep. The cOrsage and sleeves
are trimmed with black lace arranged with
indescribable effect by the hand of the
ill Of 4Ia ;c
embroidered on the Aounces with fern leaves
in shaded purple, and deeply fringed. The
tunic is dotted with embroidered shaded
spots, and edged with ferns. The corsage is
embroidered to correspond. A golden orange
silk has deep thread lace founce and tunic,
ornamented with velvet leaves embroidered in
two shades
A rich sutane dinner dress had a deep fold
of velvet on the border edged with heavy
fringe; the skirt was nearly covered with
three -fringed and scolloped hOunces above
this, and the tunic was looped high, with a
rich fall of silk and fringe behind.
A reception dress for lady in mourning
was lustreless silk with cashmere overdress,
trimmed with broad passementerie and leaf
ornaments of silk. Similar trimming headed
She founce.
charming dress of rose-colored silk was
to be worn with tunic of Grape edged with fine
pLSSSCS of the Grape fringed out by hand.
The artistic looping of the tunic and the soft
color of the dress rendered it sufficiently
stylish to suit young wearer
A sky-blue tulle, also, for a very young
lady, was embroidered in wreaths with floss,
and made up with flat pleatings of tulle in
stead of puffs. A reporters pencil can hardly
give the refined decoration and arrangement
of these dresses, which wore that air of not
one touch too far which points out a toilet of
superior taste.
The trousseau of young Virginian lady
lately inspected showed such quiet English
style and excellent work that a few notes were
taken. The bridal dress was, as it should be,
severely plain, of dead white poult de soie
the corsage pointed to suit a round waist, and
relieved only by seven folds of silk across the
bust. The net was half high, and the sleeves
Louis Quinze, falling below the elbow with a
with point lace frills. The neatness of the
work was notable; not an edge was visible in
the white silk lining, each being turned in
and run together, and the stitches were like
bead-work. A stout white silk belt was
from the strain Of closing. The vail
was the tulle, with open mesh aud
worn with a diadem of waxen orange bios
SONS with fine myrtle sprays Corsage and
sleeve knots of blossoms finished the parure
The reception dress was coral -coloredsilk, with
puffed tunic and elaborate bow trimmed with
white lace, headed by fine herring bone satin
trimming of exact workmanship. This was
completed in the house which furnished the
dresses, and would compare with the incest
Partisan needlecraft. Three rows of this in a
stronger shade than the silk festooned the
front width crossed the bodice and headed