The Cecil Whig. [volume] (Elkton, Md.) 1841-current, 1869-03-13
Pruning Old ApDle.Tre

In pruning apple-trees that are thirty
years old and upward, the same system
should not be followed as with those that
are younger:
The wood of an apple-tree is made up of
annual layers: in young, thrifty trees they
are often one-half in thickness, and COM
posed of large, open cells, which allow the
sap to flow through them in large vol
ume, but as the tree becomes old and en-
feebled, either from over-bearing or for the
want Of proper culture, the cells become
smaller and the layers thinner, until, in
very old and feeble trees, the annual growth
is scarcely perceptible. Now, it is well
known that the sap asccnds through what
is called the sap-wood, which is composed
of several annual layers, but those of re-
cent formation transmit the largest proper
ton, and the older ones the least
If we commence our invest igations with
the outer layer, and proceed toward the
centre, we will find less and less sap in
each successive layer, until we reach the
heart-wood, in which there is none: conse-
quently, it is, in fact, dead wood and of no
use to the tree, except as support to that
which surrounds it.
The thousands of hollow, but healthy,
trees to be met with almost everywhere
are each witness to the truth of this
assertion.
There are, however, many apple-trees in
the Eastern States, and probably elsewhere,
that are neither hollow nor very old; still
they are dying, slowly but surely, and no
amount of culture or fertilizing will restore
them to health; therefore, some other rem
edy must be applied, and that very soon,
or it will be too late. 1t is my belief that
severe, but judicious pruning will do more
to renovate our old orchards than any thing
else we can do, but cutivating the soil and
applying manure should not be neglected,
because they will assist in producing the
desired results. The general appearance
of old apple trees are very similar; conse-
quently, | will describe one that stands a
few rods from my window, but in full view.
1t is very large and old tree-not less
than fifty years, and very likely a hundred,
have passed since it was planted. The
stem is nearly two feet in diameter: eight
feet from the ground, and it is full thirty
feet to the top of the branches. Upon a
close examination. find that the larger
branches are one mass of fruit and leaf
buds, and the young twigs of last season.
Ipfh ~
length, and the annual layer of wood on
these older branches is 50 thin that the
line of demarkation between those of sew
eral years past cannot be distinguished by
the unassisted eye.
1t is very plain that the sap rises through
the wood of these branches very slowly,
and a greater proportion Of it has been
used by the small, bit innumerable speci-
mems of fruit that have almost annually
set upon them; consequently, very little
has been allowed to return and form wood.
Every branch upon the tree is still alive,
and this is about all that can be claimed in
their favor, with the exception of q few
young, thrifty sprouts that have started
near the centre Of the tree and on the
lower portion of the larger and most
stunted branches. These sap-shoots show
that there is still great vigor in the roots,
and if there was demand upon them for
sap they could furnish an abundance. The
old branches seem to have become so weak
encd by age and continual bearing of fruit,
that the sap-vessels are clogged and the
circulation of fluids through them almost
entirely stopped.
When these old trees were young, it was
doubtless a good plan to remove annually
ell of the rapid young shoots that started
from the base of the larger bearing
branches, but now portion Of them may
be selected for the purpose of renewing or
forming new head to the tree. At least
onc-half of all the old branches may he
safely cut away the first season, provided
there are a few young, thrifty shoots to
take their place Saw off the old branch
just above healthy shoot, no matter how
small, and if there are several of them, all
the better; but half dozen is enough to
leave on one branch, even if Of large size
The next year the remainder of the old
branches may be taken of, and the young
shoots of the previous year thinned out to
the desired number.
am now supposing the old branches
are from four to eight inches in diameter,
as they actually are on the tree that have
alluded to above, and they are to be sawed
Off at whatever point the best young
sprouts appear, whether it be one foot or
six or eight from the main stem. We do
not expect that the old trunk will be very
ornamental for the first year or two after
therefore, we do not prune to keep an
immediate good appearance, but will wait
for that a few years. The wounds made
on these old branches should be carefully
smoothed with sharp instrument, and
then coated with hot melted wax, or some
similar material that will etfectually ex-
clude the air from the wood. Once or
twice each season these wounds should be
examined, and the wax renewed if it should
accidentally come off; for, as have before
stated, that the heart-wood is actually
dead, and the little sap-wood on old apple
tree branches is but little better, and both
will soon decay if exposed to the rain and
air.
BY removing the old branches, We give
the Young. thrifty sprouts a chance to