The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1869-11-11

vi lie houern history OF mat part or Asia already
commenced in the HERALD.
The "Cify OF Palaces',-Genernl Appcarauce
oil CaIcutta--First Imprcssions-I4ifc in m
Indian H0tel-Native SERVANTS and English
Treatment of Then,-Thc sssi1htso Of Call
cuttn-C0mmcrcinl Status OF the City-The
New Settlement Mt Port CanrinG-nIisery of
the Native POpuiation-Evcry Day Life.
CALCUTTA. Sept "a 1869.
Some fve or six hundred years ago Mussulman
traveller, after describing the cheapnass OF pr0vi-
sons and slave girls and other luxures in Bengal be-
walled the dscomforts occasioned by the climate and
summed up his opinion OF the country by saying that
it was shell filled with good things.n Many
changes have taken place in Bengal since the days OF
Ibn sabuta. A man can no longer live sumpIuously
on few rupees O month ana slave girls, though
they still sold IN secret reputed to cost much
more than couple OF gold minars bat his criticism
on this 'sweet INDIAN laRdn applies with
rs much force as ever, at any rate during
tho hot season. Luxurious living Is SILL,
no doubt, inexpensive; but in this enervating
climate, which has been APPLY described as q .per-
petual vapor BATH" white man can enjoy but few
pleasures beyond iced brandy and soda water ana
the artificial breezes Of the pankah. Let no Ameri-
can who desires 10 crcumnaygate the world in
comfort attempt to do" india M any OF the months
between April and November.
Calcutta, by the general consent OF travellers and
newspaper correspondents, has been chrlstened the
"city OF Palaces" and when. alter tedious passage
OF fifty miles up the Hooghiy, between shores that
are unutterably dreary ana undressing, one OBJ
tains first view OF tho city the justice OF the
pllment is cheeriully acknowledged. The long lines
OF magnificent warehouses, the number Of splendid
residences that stand IN isola cd Importance
imposing proportions OF Government House and the
other public buildings, the hundreds Of stately YES
sas that lie moored Ia the stream, the noise aad
tvly and hustle that prevail every side-all tni-
press the spectator with strong sense OF being IN
| the presence Of vast wealth ana power. When
he grows better acquainted with the place
he VIII no doubt discover that, ike the empire Of
which she IS the seat, Calcutta looks great deal
more stable and imposing than she really Is, anu
that most OF these apparently splendid stone build
in9a are, in strict iaet very nlmSy structures CT
bricks and PLASTER But at first sight Calcutta Ger.
tainiy seems, IN serious earnest, ciY Of palacesu
TIE gancral air ana tote OF the place. however,
scarcely correspond with the unGraveicl idea OF an
oriental city. 1t IL true that here and there the
mlnaret of mosque ofthe tower OF burning ghaus
SHOOTS up into the SKYE Many things. t0o very
unfamiliar--the huge adjutAnt siorks that stand
like monuments GU the corners OF the nousetops and
and then noat clunisiiy away to another "coign
OF yantage;' the humpbacsed Indian cattle, toil,ng
aong the main tloroughfores with well laden
drays; the palankeens, and the naked coolies
60 utterly unlike tho "co!ored peoplen OF
our own country. But, in spite OF all this
Calcutta seems at first acquaintance mercy
q modern European city. The houses would
not to greatly stared at il they were trauspantcd
to New York or Chicago. The principal streets are
broad ana dusty, and have both sidewalks and gas
iur hera md hare nv n
drinking house, not very dissimiiar In appearance
to q fourth rate lager beer saloon. Tao native
quarters OF tho town are, OF course very different
from anything that usually comes under the notice
| OF American eyes; but these are hidden carefully
away, and man might i've In Calcutta for weeks
trausacLng has basGess and pursuing his accds-
novels III wilcn the children OF yed.
The one thing that generally strikes the new
conner most lorciby Is the proiusc abundance or
aark-skinned human lie. Wherever one goes naked
natives are seen In dense swarms The gsitls homo
seens. indeed as DO Quincy snrewdy guessed, TO
Weed. Landing from me steamer ' yoa arc
engulfed In huge crowd. wno take pos
session Of you and your baggage, and only
fall hack when the last hope VI bukshsn
has vanished from their Minds Al you lumber
aong TO the hotel, men BY the dozen run by the
OF tho gnaree ald thrust tleir dl3ky through
| the windows, and enLreat yeu to buy soap and
knives and books and snirt studs ana bogus
eWery. At the hotel itself matters even WORSE
| in the corridors and passages and courtyard,
'.nggers," 10 use the usual AngIolnoan term, are
everywhere thick as ants. BnrOer5, aad talors and
pcder5 OF all kludS lie IN walt for you outside your
chamber door; and II you venture without the pre-
cnels OF III, hotel after dusk, before you nave gone
couple or hundred yarss, you VIII be beslegeu by
the Solicitations OF that class who IN Bengal form
distinct casto-pandsrs. a white man In calcutta
soon begins to realize that he Is the Caucasian
centre OF worry wide ana inclusive Hindoo CIRCLE
There are several hotels N Calcutta and one Of
them Is supposed TO be somewhat on the Ameri-
can model but they are hli pretty much
on dead level OF BADNESS. Civilized peonle
who come here should expect but little in
the way OF edible fare unioss they become the
guests OF o private friend. At the hotels the
table Is shaneiuiy bad the cooking Is reporGed 10
be disgu5t.ngy dirty, and the general arrangements
are mean and uncomfortable. Living in a hote,
loo, IN india Is very different tang from wat 1t Is
anywhere else. AS GU arrive you VIII DO
told that you must hire your servants OF whom
you wlli require four-a knitmagar to brush syour
ciothas and black yonr boots and make your oed and
wait At table, bearer 10 perform mere menlal au-
ties, ana couple or pnnkah- waah3 TO pull your
bedroom punKah through the night Only kit-
magyar IL really Indispensable; but unless man has
the moral courage To DO content TO be esteemed
very mean or a very poor man no had better hire
the others also. puakah, however Is dangerous
hear you snore generally stop pulling. Yoa wake
AGAIN at work, The cold an then gives
you chill and the inorning nnds you
In the possession Of a severe coid, which Ia
q tropical. country, L. apt TO tecone chronic. All
kins OF devices have been tried 70 Keep cue coolies
10 their task but Ia vain. few blows may per-
haps. be Of temporary service, but have no lasting
effect; and dismissal is absurdy useless, the
The careessness, Incidence and sulky indifference
OF native servants Is indeed standing grievance
VITA Ang0lDdans. The old stagers tell yon That III
these respects the great mutiny brought about
very remarkable change for the worse. the natives
were never Intelligent or cheerful servants; but
since the grand revolt they seemed utterly
careless OF finding favor IN the eyes OF their wnite
masters. And almost daily at any hotel or private
table the question - discussed, may be also
heard what are undoubtedly che matured opIn-
ions OF nine resident Europeans out OF ten
that rot one lying Hlndoo, much less Aus
SULLIVAN, Is. In heart loyal TO the rule OF the
whito race; that the snen discomfort which
1nds expression IN his outward demeanor 10 bat
faint shadow OF the bitter hatred he feels Tow ard the
English; and that, II retrlbulion weie httis less
certain there Is not native IN Bengal VINO would
not reoden his knife IN the ueDlood or his MASTER
yes, even though he had been In his service for
dozen years.
However this may be, It must be admitted that,
Under existing circumstances. ~ would DO strange
indeed II naive servants were good Inc current
rate OF paY Is for khitmagar S. month ana Tor
coote or bearer 81 90 mouth-tha IS from eight TO
thirteen cents day. Upon these stipends the poor
huu tn lat nA nd m