New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1869-09-24
THE FASHIONS.
MILLINERY OPENING.


ablo hats only with notifications The of the hat
must lie lower and broader the pus less developed and
the plumes not 80 luxurious The long Donna Maria
scarf and the sweeping vail are almost the only novel;
ties We have to be grateful for In the fashions.
La Conesse is the most sensible ha.shape Of the
son. The crown is two and half inches high slopDg
with upturned sides. This gives the pecuarites Of tho
fashion, namely, the elevated crown and velvet revers
without grotesqueness. A large high turban, with
rounded crown and sides half It's hight is becoming to
many heads which cannot bear the pointed shapes
There Is also small saucer shape, with behind
which, with puffs OF velvet and pumes, makes very
jauny dress hat These the moderate designs The
Yalos hat has high square crown, trimmed with folds
OF silk velvet and large feather held by long steel
jet buckle IN front The Louis Quinze has pulled
crown, broad and HIGH always in velvet, with plain
band and shirr Of velvet round the edge, and long
feather dropping from the Of the crown where 1t
is held by rosette 1t is precisely the shape seen in old
pictures worn by the chevalers You suggestion Of
IL Mass Hugueno Loress only not worn BY the lady
Tho Gaulois is most pointed of ALL save the Punchnelo.
whose steeple top we hope will never be sean in New
York streets.
The materials for hats soft drab and maroon fets
syer.gray plush velvet (both cut and uncu0, and pO
de Sole much shirred and pulled Tho latter material
requires deep revers and bows Of velvet to render ap
plicabe to hat styles, but tho trimming so covers the
frames that silk is often used foundation, and the
brim alone made Of velvet Both largo and small feath
ers are usedthe latter than the former, they
can be disposed moro easily hat than the long fall
plumes, which apt to look stiff unless arranged
by nice hand. Shaded feather, maroon crimson,
and rose, purple, violet, and mauve. and ca
roubier are chiefly chosen. Fowl plumage
used for aigretes or to minge with ostrich but game
plumes will not be worn in Winter. The hats made from
the breasts Of pheasants grebe, or gs are al English
STYLE quite expensive, but neither graceful nor refined
They heavy and the hat usually bears the cast
Of the bird in front the fashion looks barbarous and alb
surd. American women want no addition to their cos.
to make them look any fercer than they really
are-a sharpnosed, unquaing-eyed, bouncing set Of
creatures rather than the dOyeeyed models Of sofness
and grace men fancy them.
The grenadne Grape or ue scarf is added to all prom
enade hats for tho The length OF these articles Is
yard and half, and the width that Of barrow tue.
These walls usually of dotted real tue with thread
lace edging sewed on. The grenadine and Grape are
edged with blonde lace soft crimpedfrnge The silk
tulles sometimes left with cut edges unfinished Tho
proper way OF attaching walls Is to head them with
double loops OF the behind and bring theend round
the left shoulder, drawing 1t over the face as oda-
hsques do-when wanted.
Ribbons OF poutde sole and fine corded silks from
two to three inches WIDE Broader ribbons Of grosgran
are worn as scarfs for round hats especially with the
Vaos COlors include the very ghtest shades such as
Royal pink Mexican and Turquoise buo and the deepest
like prune color, Navy blue and Russian green Etrus.
can browns and the deep chestnut known maron are
much worn this season peculiar slaty or purplish
gray called Beaucrore from member OF the French
Government who always wore clothes OF color Vel
vet ribbons In bright color will be with silk hats
pretty twonch ribbon has dlagonally corded surface,
and rich wide ribbon has thick godcooTOd satin cords
on both sides
The shapes for bonnets Undesirable, but they
give effect OF many pus breaks IN the crown, and
1svI ta
back and come about the face in most shapes The
points Of the Wateau Fanchon and Gypsy shapes are
found In the enlarged models along with the addition OF
revers The graceful shapes are almost skeleton
bonnets-two or three bands Of silk and velvet
alternately forming the base for spray OF lowers
which. with its garnituro OF lace and velvet
loops, covers tho whole bonnet, the only
foundation being n puff Of thick black net The bands
about the face are often plain, and ht the forehead
closely. The crowns aro high, and composed OF fun
velvet plangs or diagonal folds rarely plain, and then
covered with lace Lace indeed never appeared SO pro-
fusey on bonnes before u is the only trimming which
Is scarcely possible to nisapply. new pattern In
tulle IL shown-damonds and cross bars, with worked
spot in them This is not suitable for walls. as gives
the face striped look but is handsome for scarfs fan
chons, and lappets.
Flowers will be much used 0s the season advances In
deed somo OF the finest bOnnets OF the opening have no
decoration but and lace The parures for the seas
on show rich satin and velvet flowers Roses and holly,
roses and grapes roses and ederbossom repeat them
selves in luxuriant designs Clusters OF full variegaed
rosebuds with Autumn foliage, fayorlte addition,
and full medium In soft crimson the most popu.
lar flowers OF the Wreahs OF elderbeHy Jasmine
and rosebuds placed in evening bonnets Beautiful
vines OF veined ivy with scarlet Autumn leavednter-
mingled are designed for Winter bats Painted eeraniums
arc effective flowers with their variegated leaves. The
pansy in variety large and small, golden, purple and
ri coored is favorte flower and is richly copied in
velvet.
Tulips and lilies OF Grape and pearl with tufts OF mara
bout issuing from their are the most expensive
and delicate novelties FriDges OF curlod ostrich bows
and tassels OF feathers produced in variety Of
shapes and are decate for evening bonnes in white
They do not look well In coors the natural ostrich
tips Aigrettes and feather tufts are with pimes
as usual. Messrs. Ballard, Hally Co. will accept
thanks for this information.
Yesterday the majority OF nrscass mners held their
openings The fashions spite OF their undesirable shapes
afford delight by the combinations OF color Different
shades OF color are combined on one bonnet with
admirable taste. velvet hat combines three shades Of
violet in its diagonal reyers and the pumes which
the crown The grace with which the plumes made
to cover the whole OF the hat could scarcely
from any other than aiFrench hat.
narrOn velvet, relieved by bindings OF the soft
drab called Harane, had single plume laid the
'front.' colored in the two shades its tip just resting
full pink rosebud with gaygreen leaves The royers
were relieved by full garnishing OF lace ana the brides
were parrOn velvet piped with Harane tied h knots
every few inches, and finished by deep fall OF lace
The harmony of the two colors among the richest
effects imaginable and Will be often repeated both In
costumes and bonnets Lucfer velvet has double plat
ings above the face, with lace quilting between the
warm deep red OF the hat relieved by pure pigeon
gray plumes and black lace strings, the right longer
than the other and caught round to 1t In curve. An
evening hat OF black lace qulngs has coronet OF Jet
black ederberries few shaded green leaves appearing
in the garland to the left three satin rosebuds pink
crimson golden gave color to the bonnet The back
had N broad oupQ OF standing lace held bv n bow OF