Evening star., 1869-09-13
Costumes and Modes fss september.
TFron lie Foliet OF Paris, Aurust M

II Is no easy task 20 be ehrOnIeler OF the
fashions at tins season OF me year. The fash
ting sea breeze or Delightful mountain AIR:
some content with the quiet calm Of country
me, oihers seeking strength, ''drinklng the
waters, and participating IN the various gay
eles which usually charactertze the lovely
places noted for their health giving waters
Mnen II is remembered mat la mode Is sup
posed to provide q different style for each. ani
even that thai winch 10 appropriate for one
watering place 10 not 1.-The hing for another,
we are sure our readers will endorse our open
To be trutnful we must admit that most ,anc,-
ful and exagGersted costumes are seen; but
equally ruthfully may we afhrm that tue
IN dress, and some Of the most elegant toilets
are not the simplest, but the least costly. ltis
a we'll il-understood thing that far more depend
son the make and general finish OF the dress
than on the cos IA usss OF the material; ana not
little OF the eject (pieAslrg or otherwtsel is
produced by the make Of the petticoats-ayoId-
Ing the tight meagre scannness affected by
some OF our country women and the frlghtfal-
" uneracefui tournure adopted by others.
Light and thin materials ARE nearly ali
made IN short costumes now, excepting.
OF course, when destined merely for evening
wear or for ceremonial visits. White ecru or
maize are the shades generally preferaed These
are u lmmed m a variety of fashions, black vel
Vet still beng the most usual trimming. Va
with the velvet. Plated nounces remain muCl
In vogue China Grape, chalis and striped sal-
tame make he most elegant contan-. Orep--
de-sole, foulard, pique. bItste, toile. percals
and cashmere with tafe as, are all worn.
White is above all suitable for seaside wear,
almosqeyery coloror being more or less injured
by the sea AR. Plain black gauze, trimmed
with black, won over skirt OF ligh:
coiored silk, n very pretty. There are
also some very elegant dresses made
OF black tulle, embroidered with boquets
OF colored flowers, some with large pansIes,
with their foliage, the pattern running CROSS
ways on the skirt: others with flowers OF a va
rIety OF colors. These are made en- unique
over skirts Of black, white, or colored SILK.
Upper short dresses OF black taffetas are found
extremely useful, especially for travelling; they
can be worn with a variety OF underskirts. aud
make q rice change OF toilet. Taffeta Is coming
presume, from the fact OF ITS being less liable
TO crumple and tear tnan thinner materials, ne
cessitaiing such frequent change. We md not
unfrequently that underskirts are trimmed
skirt be Of leno. pale colored bsreSe or suitane,
the boutlfones are headed with q narrow fringe
Of Ealenciennesi II the color be dark SHADE,
with q narrow black guipure, or simply a
binding Of taffetas at each edge. English pop
lin Will be fashionable for autumn wear. On
this black velvet and Valenciennes are used IN
trimming; the velvet laid on in fiounces, which
are scalloped, and the lace sewn on the edge OF
the scallops. Poplin and cashmere are very
suitable for short costumes; for instance. the
with color, the f1ounce or fiounces piped
with SILK the color Of the stripe. The upper
skirt OF plain cashmere, matching the stripe.
trimmed with plisses, or with thick chenille
fringe, and looped mp at the sides and back,
or only at the sides, according 10 taste. PLAID
is also likely 20 be IN favor the seasen ad-
vances. Scarlet, mauve and sky blue under
skirts are worn by some ladies az the sea side,
but in this case the upper skirt should De Of
either gray or black.