The New York herald., 1869-12-27
IT Ally.

Papai Frontier Bishops und Priests by the
Wa yside-Roman Courtcsy TO Traveller
Peep into the Council Chamber at Rome
Foreigners Si9ht-sceing-The Delights
Of Capua-Incidcnt Between nn American
and n Nenpoiitan-The Weather md Fashion
nj Naples-The Anti-Councii.
NAPLES, Dec. Q, 1860.
The ride by express train from Florence to Rome,
$50 miles, Is now made in eleven hours, the Pspa
authorities having been, after long hesitation in
duced TO remove their veto against speedy COM
municaton with the excommunicated domlnions OF
Victor Emanuel, wao they absolutely refuse, how
ever 10 style King OF Italy. In Papal eyes be is
merely King OF Piedmont eycommunicated to boot.
Many suppose that the Roman authorities SELL In
terpose innumerable vexatons and obstacles TO
travellers bound for the Eternal City; but such is
longer the case Al the present time they are show
ing unusual attentions ana marked courtesies 20
wayfarers, and appear anxious to give satisfaction
TO all visitors to the Council. We left Florence at
ten i. NJ, with a full train OF passengers among
whom were prelates from all quarters OF the
earth, who are Fastening forward TO the throne OF
ST. Peter: archbishops, bishops, earnest looking
priests, gay curaes with their various attendants,
black gowns, fancy South American sombreros
peculiar carpet-baggers. Some travel in princely
style, Others in more Christian way, but all seem
to be In hopeful spirits to enjoy the best OF appees
at the bufets they have been most frequently found
mdugng themselves in good, square repasts by the
waysde at the hotels, restaurants and cafes. Con.
versation with many of them educed this much they
are all prepared to receive the watchword fr ON
Rome and to act accordingly. In regard to the an
tagonism existing between the Dupanloup and Man.
ming schools on the question OF Papa infalliblty,
they unanimously agree that that is so far an ont
side question: which may or may not come up before
the Council, but that II 1t does 1t Will be settled to
the satisfaction OF all the faithful Not one OF them
showed any Intention or desire 10 express an ndi.
vldral opinion on taxing their seat at the Council
board.
On reaching the little village OF Orte, the frontier,
or Gordon. OF Papal territory around Rome, IS
passed. Orte Is 1fty miles from Rome, and the train
makes short delay at the station III order that the
popes gendarmes who are gotten up in the sprucest
French style, coats adorned with ribbons, crosses
and medals, may rtsd passports and examine bag
gage at the custom House. Our passports were
ctsded gratis and the trunks were merely peepcd
into. Russia ana Rome are the only governments
keeping up tue exploded idea OF passports. In time
they VIII also give into the age. At the same time
the Roman authorities are even now very solictous
OF curryIng favor with the travelling public by nat
tering, high-soundng notices placarded In all the
public places. As an instance OF this practice may
cite the notlcaS put up ut Orte, well as on the
southern frontier looking toward Naples, III three
different languages calling on the public TO report
eei n er 70 s s.
the officials and employees, from whom they have q
right to exact the utmost courtesy aud attention.
Outbiddng IN poiiteness and In the art or tickling
the public vanity the rongher set OF the neghborng
domlnlons. AT nine O'Clock in the morning The train
reaches Rome, and here our preate passengers
tumble out with the most unnstakable signs OF Joy
at having attained safe anu SOUND the end OF their
journey. They have come from afar and been long
In coming, but the sight OF ST. Peters magIihcens
dome looming up has amply suliiced to cheer them
and compensate for many Of the inconvenlences
undergone, which, TO tell the truth, after ALL have
not been SO very heavy. Ecumenica Councils surely
owe something 10 the telegraph and the railway.
q
wore an unusuul aspect OF hustle and commotion
Foreigners everywhere. here and there. doing the
ETERNAL on ioot and IN cab, OF all natonalties; yet
II was found that the hotels and apartments were
by no means crowded, nor was II expected that
the ey arryea any .e ar 81 ne o. n S
toe OF the Iron statue OF the SalntFounder and to
peer az the Council chamber and the various prepa
ratons going on therein. Curiosity on this latter
subject was large but lily repaid; for we could de
tect after straining all our eyes, very little except
which was barricaded and guarded By one OF the
fancy gendarmes aforesaid. One old woman, with
hood and specs, was seated nat on the floor sewing
together red carpeting over the pavement. The
white chair, under the door OF peace, IN the side
wing was already waiting to receive his Holiness,
and seemed to be voted by the sage throng OF spec
tators the entrance to be rather scanty throne;
as In fact the whole hall with its three four make
snow galleries for the outside world, seemed to be
scanty. After cursory glance at things and folks
In the superb temple out 20 to catch glance at
the people doing" the sacred and profane curios-
ties the other sections Of the CITY, AT the Capitol
the Forum, the Coliseum rhe Vatican, we come
across goodiy number OF Americans and English
people, the latter Murraying around as with a CON-
pass and needle. The Americans were more lively,
running In helter-sKelte fashion, not caring for
book or guide, but simply taking in their iinpres
hailed In crossing the bridge over the Tiber
by cab full OF jolly New Workers, who
seemed seem -, more o, anxious to exchange saluta
merry generally than was deemed consistent with
the rules ana regulations which forbid stoppages
the structure and hence the carriage was sterniy
ordered Its way across, rejoicing.
Itarried not at Rome but have hurried on down
to this delightful city and into this charming climate.
What changed from the SHOWS Of Mont Gents to
the bamy atmosphere Of the Riviera di Cniaiai The
trip from Rome to Naples l75 miles, Is made In
eight hours, with the same slight delay Tor passports
and customs examination at the southern Papa
frontier In the compartment OF the train In which
senger was an American, who had made II his prac-
tlce TO get out at every buffet to take drnkswine
cognac, or whatever drnkaDle that might be had
lively at last aud had reached that agreeable point
when he took 1t IN his head to dub the Neapon;ans
Napoleons or more pointedly John Nappy,s and
to address them such In the English language 10
their great bewilderment Reaching the station at
Capua my AmeEican's curiosity was vivIdly raised
and he determined 70 take an extra potion by way
Of tasting at least some OF the delights OF Capuau
with the effects OF which ne had read he said tnat
Hannibal was benefited AZ soon as the train door
was opened yender OF coffee and mix came about
shouting IN Neapolltan style MS merchandise, "mik
milk and coffee serapis cigarsp' The American
hailed him and took cup; two O'Clock In the night
everything being still, nothing audible except tho
shouting OF the vender. The American pays
the price, one franc. lie pays with a two
franc piece and OF course expects to
receive franc In return cnange. sJohn Nappyu Ia
the meanwhile makes himself extremely busy over
his tray OF Goals, upon which mis- most outlandsn
mix and coffee boilers apparently OF Pompeiian
manufacture) are trying TO Keep warm. He gets
into stew, handles lew coppers In the bottom or
his basket as II all his change was gone q few
yards OF as II he was going TO get the change, and
then rushes back TO ms stock in trade as If in de-
spar, all the time shouting Latte, latte serdp,s ~
The American nal00lng IN the interim the following
words which might almost call Italian, presto
change p' but they had not the slightest effect on
'John Nappy," who, whenever pressed too point
edly would throw IN "c'e te1DOn there is ttmet.
Finally, things proceeding at this gait the Incident
was closed by the American who Jumped out silly,
picked up 'Nappy'sn tray OF Goals and pots and
brought them into the coach with O terribly angry
air. That brought the Neapolitan to terms, aud he
came up IN the most artistic picturesque OF bonnes
and general accoutrement with a smiing yet Gun.
ming connenance TO apologize for the delay and hand
In the lacking franc. IL would be wholly impossible 70
describe the arch simplicity and peasantness OF the air
with which he finally recognized That the cunning Of