Evening star., 1869-09-24

NEW YORK AND PARIS FASHIONS FOR
OCTOBER.
New FAN Fashions, in,Materials. Street
Suits. Evening Dresses, and Costumes
New Sleeves. shirts and Corsases-High
Round Hats-The ..Aangman'ss Veil.

new faII fash1ens, in Materials. street
New Sleeves. shirts and Cersases-High
Round Hats-The ..Aangman's'' Veil.
From Our Fashion Correspondent
NEW YORK, September, 1869.
Richards himself again, or II not quite is be-
coming so very fast. In other words, New
York is emerging from the state OF limp drear-
iness which characterized it during the sum.
mer solstice, and is gradually assuming that
radiant air OF gaiety and perpetual holiday
making. which comes with the beautiful fall,
with the cooler air, the brighter skies, the pro-
cessions, the excursions, the return Of city peo.
pie TO their homes, and the display, for their
benefit, OF new goods from over the sea and
fabrics as brilliant in appearance from nearer
nome Yet 1t is not all festive, though that pretty
girl from Pedria leaning on the arm Of her
newly made husband, and looking in at all the
windows as she walks up Broadway, thinks so.
MY window Is high mp, and looking down
upon be throng, and seeing In their sharp eager
races the million cares and anxieties that are
devouering them. i no longer pity the dying
pray with tears for the Quivering human flesh
and blood that lives and breathes, and hopes,
and enjoys, ano alas! suffers in the multiplied
forms below. But IL Is not my business lust
now to look. i made my tour of inspection
yesterday and must address my self TO the prac-
iical werk OF telling my readers what is in store
IN,
me tell them to make their mInds easy on the
score OF short street dresses.
The revolution in womens outdoor dresses
was as complete as il was sudden, and II will
probably last with this century at least. In
fact 1t is exceedingly doubtful II wish could
say impossible) that the old train skirts, the
old thin gaiter boots and shoes, the three story
coal scuttle bonEets should ever see day light
again. Women have now got convenient and
useful street dress, costly, If they choose TO
make it so, but economical also, If they cAoose,
and always neat, lady.hke and becoming
They have fortu nately tried 1t and found the
GOOD of IL, and whatever Partisan milliners and
last women may ordain, think American
women will hold on TO it as the best thing
until they hnd better. This sensible and
universal dress is not a mere accident, 1t Is part
OF the N odern and progressive or der Of things
which IS gradually removing the barriers TO
the greater activity and tree development on
the part OF all women. But now for details.
MATERIALS, NEW AND OLD.
The mere list of these might suffice for one
letter and the great variety probably furnish
the reason why, when women want a new
dress they never know what to get. First but
where TO ,begini there's the rub; silks and go
down, or prints, and 60 up. "Prints" didiyou
say my little housewife! Well prints be it
then. Quite q new effect has been produced in
this class OF goods this season by introd ucing
black and forming narrow spreckled stripes
OF blue and black, or green and black, with
white lines between. In wide English prints
these are IS cents per yard, double former
prices, (tnat is before the war; but lust about
half what they were during the war, (7s cents,)
and all worth the advance on our domestics,
from their permanent color and greater dura-
bi ity. There is something in the humidity OF
the English climate which adapts it particular.
ly to the printing and anufacturing OF colors
American prints follow English patterns
very much in style and design, and are now
almost at ante war prices; they can be bought
from ten to fifteen cents per yard. Consider
ing the advance on the cost OF raw cotton, this
is very low, and can hardly pay for the cost of
manufacture. In white cotton goods the Amer
lean man ufacture can ow sustain itself against
an foreign 10 IneEs T.. is nSsnS Of
lin. In dress goods, however, the record is
very different French merinos, English
serges, Irish reps and poplins are copied here
the instant they make their appearances, and
copied SO that it is difficult to tell them apart
apparent stienetn and durability, but this !.
only apparent not real. They are always
mixed, snd very much mixed with cotton
worse stiil in black and white goods and
wherever black lines are introduced into fab
RIGS they are nearly al ways cotton, even when
the material is expensive, that is from one 70
two dollars per yard, and the consequences is
that If worn upon a warm day the bIack rms
into the white, and the dress is ruined, or il
worn ont In the rain II crimples mp and runs
In stTeaks, so that il 10 never fit to wear again
The japanese poplins are sample Of this sort
OF goods, very pretty TO look at They tempted
many 70 buy who could i'll afford the cost, and
make them sorely repent when they found
ground or thrown In the sea, for Japanese
poplins," or the speckled stuffs known by that
name, are fimsy and poor in quality, as well
as liable to run, from the mixture Of black cot.
ton. l repeat what have often said before
that pure goods, pure wool, pure silk, or pure
cotton are worth all the fancy fabrics in the
world for wear, and satisfaction in wearing
them; no matter how pretty or attractive ths
latter may be. Even Irish poplins are worth
little unless they are warranted all silk. the
mixture,of silk and wool, beautiful as they are
at first, being unable to stand either dying or
cleaning without losing body and Tone
Among the very best OF the medi u ID. priced
goods are pure mohair black alpacas, double
warp. These are lady y.like for suits or house
some as black silk, they furnish a dress that
will outwear several S2 silks. at the cost OF IS
cents per yard. Then there are very good
Empress cloths for IS cents and the best oual.
ity French merlno for 81; pure wool plaid for
IS cents per yard up, and all wool delaine, a
hne, soft, serviceable material, not half enough
used, for 50 cents. The white ribbed opera and
printed fiannels must be mentioned also among
the newest Of wool fabrics for ladies' dressing
gowns and tor chIldren's wear. Among the
best and most servIceable Of the mixed fabrics
cents per yard, and not only take the place TO
a great extent OF the old cotton and wool
delatnes, but make very good looking cheap
SUITS. There is very soft real Scotch serge,
one yard and half wide, for cloaks and suits
which, speaking comparatively, is cheap at
$3.50 per yard; poplin velour-that Is, heavy
rep poplln-at 81 .2o to 81. 50. Cashmere morn.
ing robes, In shawl patterns, in every shade of
color, are offered at from Sl2 to SIS the dress
VI silk, black silks are incomparably the rich.
est. The Antwerp, or s.Cathedral" silk, $40
per yaro, and others, stately and grand in
proportion, till we come down to the 81 articles
which is the acme Of some little woman's am.
oition. There are embroidered silks, grounded
In every color known under the sun, and
speckled all over with rich bog uets OF won
derful flowers, birds, leaves, tendrils-alI
grown under the swift magic of some glrl's
hands. These are held at 1875 the dress, or
about $25 per yard-a low price, II You count |
the hopes and fears, the wishes and the ankle.
Ties wrought into every inch Of the silken sur.
lace, but high when we consider the small /
amount Of duty which such q piece OF gay |
piumage is ever called upon to perform, and |
not to be compared in distinguished effect with
q rich plain black silk, at half the price In
fancy silks there IL the novelty Of alternating /
narrow saun stripes, with others of ohangeabIe
stlk. magenta satin, for instance, with the new /
cnangeable green uert dedu eroupessd (sta9.
nant WATER and deep brown, with chan geabie, |
Or as the English call it, "sAot'' pink silk. The
quality Of these silks 10 very good; they are &c
per yard, and cannot be Initiated, a. other /
striped silks have been, In common striped |
new style in fancy silks; they are intsndsd for l
oinner and evening costumes, arranged in the 1
most yococo style-antique sleeves, lace ruf1lss /
very low square boddioe, bunched.up skirt /
powdered hair, bows OF black velvet and black L