The Evansville journal. [volume] (Evansville, Ind.) 1866-1870, 1869-10-02
OATLY sJOURNA AZ
sArURpAY....................oCToBER 2. ls9
FALL AND WINEER BONNNFs.

- SOteftS SN@S'
The STYLES of millinery must be
accepted with allowances. The high
Gaulois and Valols hats, with peaked
crown. are scarcely becoming to any
head, and the bonnets are neither be-
coming or servieeable In any way
more than the graceful Fanchon,
whose days are numbered. Persons
of decided taste can wear the fashion
able hats only with notifications.
The crown of the hat must be lower
and broader, the puffs less developed,
and the plumes not so luxurious.
The long Donna Maria scarf, and
the sweeping vail, are almost the
only novelties we have to be grateful
for in the fashions.
La CoDatesss is the most sensible
hat shape Of the season. The crown
"a two and a half inches high, sIoping,.
with upturped sides. This gives the
Deculiarities Of the fashion, namely,
The elevated crown and velvet reVers,
without grotesqueness. A large high.
tITrban. with rounded crown, and
sides half its hight, is becoming to
many heads which can not bear the
pointed shapes. There is also q
small saucer-shape, with reVers be-
hind, which, with pufs of velvet and
plumes, make a Yery jaunty dress hat.
These are the modern designs. The
Valois hat has high square crown,
trimmed with folds Of silk or velvet,
and large feather held by a long
steel or Jet buckle In front. The
Louis Quinze has pulled crown,
broad aud high, always in velvet, with
4 plain band, and .shirr of velvet round
the edge, and a long feather dropping
from the centre of the CROWD, where
1t is held by rosette. It is precisely
the shape seen In old pictures worn
by the chevalieTs. You see sugges-
ton ofitin Millais, Huguenot Lor6ss,
only not worn by the lady. The Gau-
lois is most pointed of all save the
Punchinello, whose steeple top, we
hope, will never be seen in New YerbI
streets. loft drab
The materials for hats -rrav blush
and maroon felts.u 1ncut), and posslt
velvet, both 81 SHRED and pulled.
dc softer material requires deep re-
sEfs and bows of velvet to render it 4
applicable to hat styles, but the trim
mings so covers the frames that silk
is often used as a foundation, and the
brim alone made of velvet. Both
large and small feathers are used
the latter more than the former. as
they can be disposed moro easily on
a hat than TIE long fall plumes, which |
are apt TO look!stif unless arranged by |
a nice hand. Shaded feathers, ma
room, crimson, and rose, purple, vio- |
let and mauve and caroubier are
chiefly chosen. Fowl plumage used |
for aigrettes or to mingle with ostrich, |
but game plumes will not be worn in |
winter. The hats made from the
breasts OF pheasants, grebe, or gulls, |
are an English style, quite expensive, i
but neither graceful nor refined /
They are too heavy, and as the hat I
usually bears the cast Of the bird in
no al the fashion looks barbarous
20 ~ - ttin> american women. waHf i
grace men fancy them. II
The grenadine Grape or tulIe is add
ID to all promenade hats for the
The length of these articles
s yard and half, and the width
ire usually of dotted real tulle
With thread lace edging sewed on. !
The grenadine and Grape are edged
With blonde lace, or soft crimped /
ringe. The silk tulles are sometimes
eft with cut edges, unfinished The /
proper way Of attaching walls is to
read them with double loops of the
anne behind, and bring the end round I
o the left shoulder. drawing it over
he face as odalisques do-when
Fanted. {
Ribbons are p3uh dc s0ie and fine s
orded silks, from two to three inches
ride. Broader ribbons on gross grain
re worn as scarfs for round hats, es- I
ecially with the Valois. Celors in
lude the very lightest shades, such t
S royal pink, Mexican and Turquois !
'lue, and Russian green, EtrUsean :
,r0Wn, and the deep chestnut known
S nldr0H, are much worn this season.
\ peculiar slatish or purple gray is !
salled BeaucrOlre, from member OF
he French Government, who always
Vore clothes of that color. Velvet
In bright color, viii be worn {
With silk hats. A pretty, two inch )
ibson has diagonally corded sur
ace, and a rich wide ribbon has thick, =
old colored satin cords on both sides. |
The shapes of bonnets are indie,
but they give the effect of 1
many puffs or breaks in the crown, t
nd require revers back and front, /
they are high at the back, and come |
lose about the face IN most shapes. +
The points of the Vatican, Fancbon, !
nd Gypsy shapes are found in the en- J
arged models along with the addition i
f revers. The most graceful shapes
re almost skeleton bonnets-two or
hree bands Of silk and velvet alter s
lately forming the base for a spray of 5
lowers, which, with its garniture of f
ace and velvet loops, covers the 4
ThOle bonnet, the only foundation il
eing puff of thick black net. The a
ands about the face are often plain. !.
nd fit the forehead closely. The t
roWns are high, and composed of :
Ill velvet plaitings or diagonal folds, :
lrely plain, and then covered with b
ice. Lace indeed never appeared so +
on bOnnets before. 1t is
&c only trimming which it is scarcely v
ossible to misapply. A new pattern II
tulle Is shown-diamoGd and cross 3
ars. with a worked spot in them. \
his is not suitable for walls, as it L
YES the face a striped lock, but is
lndsome for scarfs, fanchons and Z
ppets. .-a G G
Flowers will be much used as the Y
JASON advances. Indeed some of the
nest bonnets of the opening have no 5
but roses and lace. Tho c
arures for the season show rich s
tin and velvet flowers. Roses and s
oily, roses and grapes, roses and ell ?.
er blossom repeat themselves in lux ',
rant designs. Clusters of varigated | te
with autumn foliage, are a r.
.vorite addition, and full medium
0ses in soft crimson are the most =