The weekly standard., 1869-10-06
FASHIONS.
THE FALL FASHIONS.

We gather the following information con-
cerning the fall style of bonnets from high
fashion-authority
Despite all statements to the contrary,
there is but little change to note in the new
styles of the coming season. The Fanchon
is retiring, decidedly, and the new shapes
are infinitely more distingue, as well as
more becoming, but they are very much
| like those of last winter-high, the design
like Highlander's cap or military casque,
the trimming of curled feathers and stri-
king aigrette, arranged 10 give grace and
distinction to the carriage of the head, and
as much of beauty as it is possible to impart
by milliner's flame to the face.
There are round hats of velvet, but prin-
cipally they are made in felt, mounted with
velvet and trimmed with feathers and ro-
sette, or pompon, which either constitutes
! decoration in itself, or serves as base for
the wing or aigrette which springs out of
| it.
1t is quite new and very popular fancy
to attach long donna Maria veil or scarf
to the back of round felt hats, which may
be drawn across the face or wound around
the neck, one end passing the opposite side,
| in what is called 'hangman's knot The
effect is a little tragic, but it is striking,
and on cold, windy days it is comfortable.
Velvet, cut and uncut, is the material
most in use for bonnets; and feathers and
lace, the principle features of the decora-
ton. The lace is arranged as veil at the
back, and also as scarf, which is brought
under the chin and fastened up on the side
with a rose or some other ornament.
The necklace of lace, with folds of quill
lings of satin or ribbon, and bows in front
are still worn; but the scarf of lace knot
ted on the left side, high above the ear, is
newer, and has the merit of affording some
protection to the face and ears.
Among the newest designs is one called
the Trianon. 1t has square crown and a
straight brim, and can be used as hat or u
bonnet. 1t is made of white uncut velvet,
laid upon the Frame and covered with
white lace. 1t is trimmed with white feath-
ers and pink roses A long veil of white
lace descends at the back, edged with white
satin, and mounted with satin rosettes.
A very pretty bonnet is composed of
double standing flutings of black velvet and
lace, wide ceries velvet strings, carried up
on the sides, and plume of short curled
feathers, composed of two black and one
ceries. .... ... ....... ..... I.,- H.
Another graceful design is executed in
violet velvet, with trimming of black
feather fringe, and ornaments composed OF
rosette of small peacock feathers and an
aigrette.
The gem, however, is the "Natalie" 1t
is straight black velvet casque, with a
very narrow brim, over which the velvet is
laid slightly full. There is black velvet
bow in front, a round cluster bow at the
back with long ends, and plume of three
lovely short black ostrich feathers, these
starting from the front and curled over the
crown. If color is required the central
feather will be pink, blue, green, or ruby
red, but we consider the all black more dis
tinguished.
.f- TRIMMINGS
Flat trimmings promise to be very fash
ionable this winter, in the shape of broad
ribbon, velvet, heavy braids, cords, gimps
and bindings, but heavy corded braids prin
cipally, in addition to black velvet, and the
galoons which are used SO much for cloti
suits.
Fringes of the same material, or contain
ing the colors of the material, are in high
vogue, and trim suit richly, though some
. what expensively. .....
One of the sensations consists of white
dresses, with white grenadfne or white mo-
hair, trimmed with black velvet and black
knotted silk fringe. saf.y
| Cords, gimps, and narrow galoons striped
in the Roman colors are used to trim gray o.
black alpaca dresses with very good effect
and Roman striped silk or satin is also large
ly used, cut into narrow bias folds, which al
ternate with others of the material, or ar,
employed as headings to fringe trimming
These goods striped on black or som,
more striking colors, are also cut into rovers
sailor collars, and the broad mousquetair
cuffs now worn, and form most effectiv
!. finish to plain house dresses or merino, EN-
press cloth, or cashmere.
sELF-CoLoRED MATERILs
7 The importation of autumn goods bein,
5 at length concluded, 1t is evident that sell
l colored materials and plaids predominant
s with here and there a line of stripes. /
Q solid colors, the preference is for glossy sui
8 faces.
All wool serges new this season, are sol
as merino, and so smoothly finished as t
/ seem overcast with silks decided improv,
9 ment on the harsh feeling lustreless surges
y last winter. They are tlree-fourths of
g yard wide, and of different qualities, suit,
7, J bic for house or street dresses, =