The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1869-08-31


among the greener foliage; ere yet chilly breezes
nestle with sounds Of coming cold, Dame Fashion,
ever In advance OF the time, blazons the announce
ment that she is ready for the coming season, with
styles to delight the hearts Of the fair ones and
dresses to make their eyes sparkle in eageTness
She is a forward Dame-extravagant I'm habit plump
and full-breasted in her pictures, butwth willy
OF the eye that makes men-that s, married men
greet her with a '--ye." Caring not for this how
ever she pursues her way and now in contempt in
immodestly preparing to display her enigy
in the windows OF Chestnut street
stores. GAS we can't stop you, come on, old woman,
and let us hear and what you are going to do
this fall" First, however, word Of caution and adj
vice. Don't begin your raid on white pques and
pure muslins too soon. There will be plenty OF
sunny days and warm evenings before October, days
and evenings when such dresses grateful wrap
ping around delicate shoulders, and nuttering
around ankles slender and clean cut, in whrl of
snowy whiteness that ravishes the imagination of
the beholdeT Don't then, for while at least, dis
card such wear thGt warnl-breathed Summer place
on innocence that half hides, half reveals the
beauties you would cover with the impenetrabe
garments Of fall Demanding compliance
on your part with this request, we
are ready now to examine your goods, and
chronicle for public information the styles you pro-
pose. Ah we see that you possess au artist judg-
ment These new shades In silks for evening wear
are rich and lovely First, here is coral color; the
exact tinge of the ornaments, shaded to match the
q q
golden light soft color, admirably suited to bru-
nete. 1t lights to perfection and displays best with
foamy pufllngs of tulle and white satin ribbons.
Here, too, is the demure grey purple. 1t is favore
shade abroad is 1t not? II fairly sparkes when
with black laces over white silk bands. Emerald
green is a favorite color too; and ashes of roses
comes high in favor q color for the street. well
as for evening wear. That for evening is a tender
purplish rosy drab for the street sober tint
is worn. Now your moment; will you not
nnIf0 nj ann fha NJ tho apIpr Holt
a-dozen new shades appear each year, which
few people can rightly name, and sad con-
fusion comes in consequence. This introduction of
cOlors, too bears hard the milliner the mo-
diSte, and the salesman, for people will not consider
them du fat in their business until the distinctions OF
shades correctly appreciated and understood.
In pink there are five shades commonly used, known
as Blondine a delicate whtsh tpge, like that of
blush roses rose. color, soft and charming TOse
sublime and des AlpeS rarely seem rose
pink, de chine, which approaches cherry; and
the purplish pnks known as Solferinos. In blue the
same confusion obtains. Milk blue is the palest;
blue celeste, empress, azuline, Marie Louise, Alex
andra, and Mexican blue deepen according TO their
order. For short dresses, the Alexandra blue car
buncle, sultan, ruby, and maroon shades OF red,
emerald and violine are the variety.
Now for a stroll among the stores. Here we meet
the color called the ''peacock's neck"-a changing
metallic color like frog green or seant 1t is shown
in heavy grOsgrain, 25 inches wide, at IS yard.
IOUU-ue-SO1e Is lRnIeT bllh, Vi IllS
pearanCe gr0S-gratn, and quite as much esteemed
on account Of its finer quality. The fine corded silks
return to favor this season. They are known by the
distance at which the cords woven ;gro3 Atrjque
the widest; gros de Suisse moderate, and grOS de
LOndTeS the finest The last Is rated at si5O yard.
They all wear well.
All! while here among the silks we cannot pass by
the wedding goods How lovely they are in their
snowy magnincence! White gros-grain % inches
wide, at 81 to s. yard White armures are newer
and admired for wedding dress Ottoman Vslours
are grand; the thick satiny cords rejecting the light
in dazzling beauty. White grOs dc LoRdres makes
pretty bridal dresses Il is more moderate tOo $3.50
yard. Pollt de soe 2s inches wide, is $40 yard.
new blush shade-known as chalk-white-is
shown in faille at s5. Then the finest white satin
ever imported into this country is also exhibited for
bridal dresses it is very smooth and finished finely
on the under side, q inches wide and Sl5 yard in
price, The pattern for wedding dress is fifteen
yards.
In evening goods the variety is hardly opened
Black silks embroidered by hand In corn flowers and
carnations are hew. A pretty Partisan fabric is in
alternate stripes of blue satin, two inches wide sepa
rating wider OF white taffeta with roses ciinee
at intervals. The is $3.50 yard fourteen yards
making the pattern. 1t is made as an underskirt
only.
Among the ribbons fine velvets for the hair are
displayed in light colors barred with black and tin
sell Light Roman ribbons for the neck are fringed
on one side, I5 cents yard. Narrow Vatican rib
bons to match the sashes, 80 cents.
rich autumn ribbon is brown l1Os grain, with
raised yellow satin cords stripping it +; 81 yard. In
sashes black tafeta the most common, is 81 25 for
sX-nch width; gros grain, the same, is S2 Taneta,
nine inches wide, is $3.50 yard gros grain, seven
inches, $3.50 Ottoman ribbon, with heavy cord has
silk face and linen filling, six inches wide; it is $3.50
a ward. Wide watered ribbon is $3.50 Black tatleta
ribbons embroidered with tiny chintz sprays. ID
color are seven inches wide, and 1925 yard. Blacl
velvet, four inches wide; is 81.
Roman sashes, white barred with blue, green anC
gold are s2.75 yard white barred with pink satin
and sprigged with chlntz bouquets, are So. Larg
black plads broken by a satin stripe, come in ligh
colors, with white, at g. Reversible ribbons OF
heavy gros-grain, satin finish, black on one side
colored ON the other black and gold, black ant
green, are s8'75 yard. Watteau ribbons are BARRE
and striped in the palest coors, pea-green an
blonde sky-bue and straw, usually relieved b
markings of black and gold price 81 ayard
The proper length for a sash is three yards, whc
allows YOU room in addition to passing around tn
waist to tie large bows or loops behind.
Embroidered sashes are imported in white tafet'
with sprays of roses field MOWERS on the end, s2l
the most expensive woven in pale colors for II
stance tender ashes OF rose tint with roses chinee
the body of the ribbon, and large clusters OF LuXem
houro damask and Provence roses on the ends, an
rich fringe; price, $780,
In black silk the varieties still increase. Idneta
range from st75 to g. the price for Bonnets taret
which is "a good an article as one should put INTO
street dress The different brands OF SILK are we
known: Bonnets, the best for fneness Fohsoh
for heavy quality; and Taplssers, combining ihuc
of the excellence of both the others. 1he price
0ros grain is from $3.50, which is the lowest TO 81