Delaware tribune. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1867-1877, 1869-09-09
Travel Notes In Europe.
No. 80.
BRuGEs, July 18, 1869

Here l am, away from my beloved Paris, at
iaat, amongst Dutchmen and schnapps, on my
way to England. Tho weather is SO warm that l
could not stay outside, sightseeing but am fairly
driven to my room by heat. 1t is curious, but
true, that while the mercury shows it is not as
hot here as at home, yet one seems to feel it
more.
| left Paris the 18th, for Brussels, warm day,
but made pleasant by fine breeze. We passed
Compeignc, the Emperor's fayorite summer resi-
dence, and at Quievy halted for half an hour for
an examination of our luggage by Belgian GUS
tom-house officers.
july 13th.-Up early for walk about Brus-
sells, which reminds one frequently of Paris /;
indeed 1t is called +" Petit Paris" Saw the :. Pa
ais de Ia Nation," the seat of the Corps Legis-
latf, very fine building inside, splendid STAIR
case, &c. Then to the Museum, where there Ia a
fair collection of pictures by the Dutch masters.
Next to q few of the inevitable churches, and
home to dinner. p
July 14th.-At 10 o'clock, set off imam omni-
bus for Waterloo. crowd of self-comrlacen
Englishmen made up the list of passengers. We
were taken all over the field and shown the va
rious points of interest; where Napoleon stood !;
where wellington; where this and that charge
was made, and various monuments that have
been erected since by private or public enterprise
1t was fearfully hot. and l was not sorry TO be
done with 1t, and no one could grudge the neccs-
sary pom5oire to the guides, who certainly earned
tho right to drink that day. We got back to
Brussels at O'Clock, q long hours excursion
July 15th.-Took the train for Antwerp, a ride
of three-fourths of an hour. You will not be
surprised came again to Antwerp, Ii you re-
member how much was pleased with my first
visit, and 1t loses nothing by repetition. Indeed
one should leave Antwerp for bonne bouche'
in making the tour of Europe, and take II last
Few persons probably can appreciate its noble
works of art who go there first. For myself
/ can say after my schooling in the Vatican the
Pitt, the Louvre, and tho Galleries OF Berlin
Munich, and Vienna, feel that can do justice
in thought, If not in words, to the master Of his
art-Rubens.
July 16.-Went to the top of the Cathedral
tower, visited four or five churches, aud in the
afternoon took the train for Gard. :
July 17th.-Ascendcd the Beffroi, sort of old
bell or watch tower, dating from the 18th centu
ry. most magnificent view from it, embracing
Then to see the Hotel dc Vile, Falais dc L Uni
ycrsite and the Academy of Fine Arts, which has
some very good pictures. To the Cathedral, a
fine church, but too gaudy for my TASTE. To the
history OF Gard, and on one side of which i the
great cannon known as 'de dulle Grietc," (the
enrnged Margu erite) is feet long, by II In cir
cumfercnce, supposed to date from the 18th CEN
tury.
An hours ride from Gard, brought me to this
quaint old town of Bruges. set out this morn
lny for walk, but after seeing the Cathedral and
Palais dc Justice had to give it up.
LONDON, July 2Oth.
From Burgess to 0stepd, whore tosk sea
bath before breakfast, to give me an appetite, and
donkey ride after, to promote digestion, and
then steamer for Dover. and night train for
London brought me to Victoria station this MORN
ing, and am now at Charing Gross Hotel You
speak about your strawberries, here they serve
them with the stems, on u napkin, and you eat
lees you order them not to do 30, they brought
with wine poured over them. In France the na-
vor OF the fruit does not compare With ouis, but
they arc quite as good here.
ABERDEEN, August 9Th.
Here am in a Scotch rain storm, near the
jumping of place. in this out Of the way cor
ner of Gaelic Land
The pleasant weather I was blessed with In
London, has left me, and l have scarcely seen the
sun since my departure from there, August Sd,
j
in drizzling rai1 for Oxford, which reached in
two hours, and went to hotel which WINS Angel
ic only In name! and then boisting my umbrella
began prowl about the town. 1t is vacation
now, "The Long" so saw but few students.
looking queer enough in their Mortar Boards"
and gowns l rambled about for several hours,
and saw most of the college buildings. New Col
lege, one Of the oldest, as well as oldest, Braz-
enose, with the big, brass nose over the door,
where Verdant Green struggled through his
classics and calamites, Baliol College, The Mar
tyr's Memorial, erected to Crnmer Latiiner "
Ridley, aud many, masy Others. Oxford itself is
very queer old place with an air of stad anti
guilty about it that contrasts strangely with the
green freshness of our American college towns.
By the time had done all this, was very wet,
and returned to the hotel to s'dry up"
August 4th.-Took the morning train for Aud
Reekie; at Blctchlcy Janction changed cars, and
AFTER very tiresomc journey, on miserable
murky day, We reached The modern Athens of
Edinboro' mt 0 p. m.
August 5rH.--woke to fud that the "Grandes
Faux" were still In operation. was very much
pleased with Edinboro'. 1t is one of the most
picturesque Of cities, and not unlike Salzburg or
Lausanne. first saw the splendid monument to
Sir Walter Scott, then up To the Castle, which
hovers on the brow OF a ll.right over the town.
Here is the great gun OF the city-old Mons
Meg" a curious as well as gigantic piece of ord
nance. 1t Is built q use the word adyisedy) of
fiat strips OF iron, bound together by hoops very
like barrel. Then the Crown Jewels of Scot
land, and very cheap looking things they arc. Ii
1t were not for the historic associations connected
with them, they would not be worth second
glance: From there to Hoyrood Palace, passing
John Knoxs house on the way. The Palace or
Abbey as 1t is often called heresidence of the
Scottish Kings, from James Nv to Queen Mary.
We were escorted round by :" Beef Eater,
who conducted us, first through the Picture Gal
lery, a collection of mediocre merit, then to the
rooms of Lord Darnley, then to The Tapestry
rooms, with two fine pieces OF ancient tapestry,
n.lt1 t1,nx,t< ...1.
bers of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots
consisting OF her bedroom, dressing-room, pri-
vate supper-room, and audience chamber. 1n this
last Rizzio was murdered. Then descended TO
the Chapel Royal, fragment Of the old abbey,
and beautiful hpecimea OF carly Gothic archi-
lecture.
/ saw Walter Scotts house in Castle street, and
other objects OF less note, and so ended the day.
AUGUST 6th.-up betimes for my day of great
est interest. At 6.35 took the train from WAY
crly Station for Melrose, arriving in two hours;
discussed comfortable breakfast at the George
Hotel and then set out for the Abbey..I was very
wet and muddy, but did not damp my ardor,
until had been all over it. Back to the hotel
burgh Abbey. At Abbottsford l saw the library
as 1t was when the great author occupied it, and
everywhere a thousand little memorials of him.
Then to the beautiful runsiof Dryhurgh where he
Is buried in the family tomb-aitogether a most
Interesting though very dump excursion. In the
evening returned 10 Edinboro'.
AUGUST 7th.-Went to Hawthornden Haw-
thornden Itself was not open, but saw the fne
old ruins Of Rosln Chapel and those of the cas-
tie. At O'Clock p. m. was on the train for
Aberdeen, which reached in four hours.
This is a nice, regular, well-built country town
certainly well-bullt almost oil tho houses being
granite, but this gives terrible .greyncss aud
sameness to it al which is none the better for
grey sky and wet day like this. fear maligned
the Germans when condemned them for "lhe
worst cooks in the world" The English are as
bad and the Scotch much worse, If this be possi-
bic Grease aud onions appear to enter into the
composition of every dish. A little meat and po-
tatoes and great deal of cabbage and turnip and
You have an idea of Scotch table Do yon like
It? VIII you dine with me One cannot but
miss the generous French wines which are too
dear here to be in general use, and the beer, good
| as it Is, is poor substitute.
Ny next will be from the "Grccn Isle of
Erin." DELAWARE.
The End of the Drought in virginia.
~ J3t,h,n nj n,