The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1869-11-16

satin, moire antique, plush, cachemire, and
cloth are the novelties of the season. Poplin
and moire, faille and satin, cachemire and
velvet, compose the newest and most elegant
costumes. CONNECTIONS of velvet will be orna-
mented with passementerie an crochet. There
is no longer question as to the material foc
trimming the autumn hat. Velvet, mixed with
black jet, is the tixedmode and nothing can re-
placelt, however many other pretty ornaments
may be adopted. For example, the toquets
Henri I'LL The style is sombre, and the
buckles and ornaments, rs we'll as the border
on the edge of the hat, of jet, give it
bright and elegant appearance. The "Tyro-
lien, so suddenly accepted as Jd 6l0dc will
continue to be worn during the winter. IL is
made in felt in black or dark colors. Dark
green, among other sombre shades, is in
good taste The crown is high and rather
pointed The trimmings are velvet, ribbons,
let and feathers. There are two or three
narrow rows of velvet round the crown, to
match the color of the felt. If trimmed with
ribbon, it should be wide, crossed or tied be-
hind, with the ends in small pans fringed
This style is suitable only for the young, to
whom it gives picturesque air. The cha
peaux de tulle and the chapeaux de campagne
begin TO assimilate, and in the mixed form
are not wanting in elegance. A black velvet
hat, with trimming Of lace and draperie of
velvet thrown back in the style Of
the fshermans cap, with deep
bright-colored flower placed over the
ear, is very becoming. A black net
scarf, half covering the hair, tied under the
chin and rolled around the throat, gives it an
Oriental appearance, and is either hat or
visiting bonnet. Young ladies wear also
straw hats, the edges tightly drawn up to the
crown, the crown being entirely covered with
velvet OF blue mauve, or green MORE. The
edges are plain straw. 4 bow with long ends
is placed behind to fall over the hair The
length of the rolled walls should be rather
more than three yards of Donna Maria gauZe.
They are not drawn over the face, but turned
round the hat and throat. The name ''Hor-
tense has been given to this style Of vail,
from portrait OF that Queen, who is drawn
with one Of white gauze encircling the face
and throat. The sailors hat has simply
ribbon round the crown. They are ola black
or white straw The Vatican is a small
round hat placed very forward over the brow.
The trimming Tor this hat must be put quite
at the back. which gives it Il very raised ap-
pearance The touue is still very fashionable,
edged with black velvet Two long ostrich
feathers, crossed, fall over the chignon. The
style of arranging the hair is essential, in
order that the different forms of hats should
preserve their individuality. The chignon is
raised on the head; the rest of the hair falls
on the neck in plaits or IN net Curls &C
company all STYLES of coiffure, and are either
short at the ends Of the bandeau or quite
long, falling over the shoulders. Little girls
with long and thick hair have it in simple
plaits hanging down the back Only very
young children wear the hair waved be-
hind, and drawn up from the forehead on
each side, and tied with bow on the sum-
NIT of the head. The redingote resembles
the robe Princess, that is to say, without
seam at the waist. The revers on the body
form a sailor collar, open in front, and join
ing half way down the chest; it then widens
and makes a turned-back revers on the skirt.
The color of the revers is blue or gold color,
10 suit the dress. Biases of the same trim
the arm-hole and top Of the hounce of the
skirt, and bottom of the redingote and broad
open cuffs, through which passes the broad
lace of the white under-sleeve. White serge
and white cachemire are used for robes de
chalnbre, trimmed with colored velvet revers
edged with white guipure. Velvet robes de
chambre, fitting to the figure and wadded,
have quilted satin revers.
We must describe some very rich and ele-
gaut toilettes, as well as others more simple
toilette of white faille, with round skirt
trimmed with three biases of taffetas under
three Valenciennes lace fiouuces. The
tunique en- redingote in front reaches half
way down the skirt. and is embroidered with
small autumn leaves in different shades of
green The redingote is bouffee slightly
behind by bias bands of taffetas covered with
Valenciennes. The body is open en- chale,
with revers Louis XIV" sleeves, edged
with plating a la vieille on the edge, and
sabot of Valenciennes. The sash, as
well as the revers, is of brown faille.
A fan bow of brown faille, mixed with Va
lenciennes lace, at the back toilette
with train OF gold-colored satin, with
black velvet revers, edged with tuyautes of
satin. The front OF the skirt is an apron
trimmed with three rows of quilted satin,
separated 10y bias bands of black velvet, ter
nlinating en- tuyaux d'orgue A black velvet
SASH tied in two rings over the satin basque,
and falling in two broad bans Over the
velvet body, which has a black satin, tuyautee
colerette, is second body of gold-colored
satin, with bouillonnees sleeves, trimmed with
a tuyaute of black satin, and deep black satin
cuff lined with gold-colored satin. toilet
of violet satin, with train. The skirt has
deep founce lined with blue satin; and g
double row Of quilted satin, separated by 6
bias of black velvet, heads the founce. The
body is of violet velvet, with bouillonnees
sleeves in the style of Henri Ill, with
bracelets of black velvet. edged with
narrow quillings, continuing en- unique Of
small founces OF black velvet behind, and Ell
tablier in front A Venetian scarf of white
ground and sripes of violet in two shades
and orange and groseille. a round costume
of poplin, trimmed with velvet The new
shades are green, chestnut, golden brown
violet, and sailor blue A costume of blacl
faye, with black velvet revers open on the