The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1869-07-02

texture. is best If used as a woof, with web
pure silk warp, when it makes good article
who Are in the Business.
At the present time American silk fabrics
are competing favorably with European goods.
In braids and trimmings we have driven
foreigners out of the market, and our ribbons
are purchased as freely as theirs But it is
with broad silks that the manufacturer will
experiment, and produce, and succeed, during
the next ten years. p. q. Givenaud, of West
Hobol1en, and John N. Sterns, of First ave-
nue., New York, now turn out respectively
several thousand yards of gr0S grain silks per
week. which no man in the trade can tell fr0m
tie best imp0rtod articles, and which retail on
Broadway for IS per yard. With the present
tariff of 60 per cent, American manufacturers
can throw and weave silk goods at profit of
10 per cent. There are now in Philadelphia
30trimming factories, those of Graham, Horst
mann Carriage and military trimmings), and
Hensell and Cornet being the largest At
Hartford and South Manchester the Cheney
Brothers, who have been engaged in the bust
ness thirty years, employ 1000 hands, and
have the following capacity per annum:-
| 60, eco pounds of thrown Silks 60, 900 pounds
of ''patent spun, 100000 pieces of belt rib
bons, and G0O,0 600 yards of wide goods. COM
| prising dress silks, gr0S grams, poplins, fou-
| lards and pongees. The Dole Manufacturing
| Company, which, in 1865, built at Paterson,
| N. u, a mill probably as large as any in Eu-
| rope, having mean length of 375 feet and
a height of four stories, turn out 5000 pounds
of manufactured threads per month, 1000
gross of silk braids, 600 gross of hat bands,
and $500 yards of serge, performing within
the mill every operation necessary to produce
the goods from the raw thread, and employing
800 hands, mostly children of Paterson ma
chinists. JohnN. Sterns of New York making
400 yards of woven goods per day, and NJ.
Givenaud over 800. Dexter, Lambert u Co.,
at Paterson make 60, 900 to $4,000 yards of
dress trimmings per month, and during the
past spring season manufactured H. 900 dozen
yards of bullion trimmings. Hamill & Booths
Passaic Mill, beside making trans and organ
zines, is employed i'll the manufacture of dress
goods. Nearly all the Paterson mills are en-
gaging in this specially, the Dole Company
having introduceda large number of improved
American looms; and the Murray Mill which
was burned in May, but will be immediately
rebuilt, will be employed in weaving broad
goods of net warps and spun filings. Ame-
rican dyers are succeeding in producing as
fine shades of color as the French. Claude
Gxeppo, at Paterson, with 35 dyers, some of
them from France, is daily turning out $50
pounds of dyed silk, the colors of which
are equal to any produced at Lyons
or st. Etienne The American Velvet
mill started at Paterson afew years ago failed.
New York city contains probably 80 estab4
hshments for various grades of the manufac-
ture; many of them are small. At Schenec-
tady, Troy, and Yonkers are also several
mills. Paterson is the headquarters of the
trade, and contains 15 factories. The ope-
ratives are mostly children of mechanics, the
majority of them girls, who earn from 81 to
81 week. In the trimming and weaving
mills skilled operatives, brought from Lyons,
receive as much as $50 a week for piece
work during the spring season, and girls
fn Iahnp a11 a
week.
Protection Needed.
The enthusiasm with which manufacturers
are entering into broad-weaving, which is just
now springing up with promise, presages the
future course of the trade. They say, ''Give
us protection, and we are safe However
selfish they may be the wish, the results to
labor remain unaltered. Reduce them to
free-trade, and three millions of silk capital
in Paterson alone will be annihilated. Beside
this, more than three thousand silk operatives
in that city will be reduced to beggary.
Three hundred Of these, by the Generalization
| of idleness, will seek lives of prostitution in
New York. Two hundred more, from the
! desperation of idleness, will follow in their
| footsteps The farmers lands and crops will
consequently decrease in value. Thirty
thousand people, in that single city, who de
| pend, however unconsciously, upon these
operatives, will sell no goods to them when
| they are scattered, and will have no money
| with which to purchase French silks. We
! have advanced to that success under moderate
| protection, whence we cannot must not re-
cede. Even with the protection we have, the
navy of Britain and the army of Napoleon
| are less formidable to our national life than
| the organization of weavers at Leeds and
! Lyons and st. Etienne. Not long ago it was
| discovered-not by the customs officers, but
| by watchful manufactnrers-tha foreign inn
| porters were sending to their agents here hol-
low blocks of ribbons, with a piece outside
which paid duty and piece inside which
| paid none. Even now they fight us
with loss to themselves. After selling
| to the European market, French manufac-
turers send the surplus to America, and
sell it for less than it cost, rather than lose it
altogether The American importers of
foreign goods are in league with the foreign
manufacturers. They do not propose in fair
| play, to give us 1.-THE choice of two markets."
they bring patience and money and chicanery
| to break down our mills, and reduce us to the
necessity of buying in Europe. The practi-
cal logic of free trade is, one market, and that
market Europe. few years ago American
! importers tried the plan of assuming to share
! with manufacturers in the production of
| American goods. OF course the style of
| goods was made as they ordered it. They
ordered it oS inferior quality, labelled it os-
| tentatiously american silk, put in their
warehouses beside foreign goods, and ruined
their dupes. From acts such as these and,
confessedly from the indscretion of
some of our own manufacturers stigma
| attends American silks. A manufactures
recently made lot of ribbons, and
purchased right to use an Importers label;
! la1,x 4 In Al l. r