New-York tribune., 1869-06-05
LIFE IN NEBz-Y9I2R.
FEEDING AND DINING.

gustf mistake to call these places dining houses
eating houses would be much more fitting term for
they are simply feeding estabshments-pe do not
dne here at least not in the refined accepaton Of
the word They walk in hurriedly sit down hurriedly
order what they want hurredy swallow their rare beef
steak and potatoes hurredy take their drink of old rye
hurnedy pay hnrriedly, and depart hurredly This is
feedng 1t Is not dining. 1t is mere match against time
for the support Of nature Frenchman entering one Of
these places would be dsgusted at its very threshold
All Jumbled together in the window lie huge masses of
raw beefseak kidneys cut in parts and several OF
those very unpleasant locking objects the heads OF
cooked turkeys, while either side the CORY neck OF
heaess % stag from the Adirondack mountains sares hun
IN tue lace and makes him pause and shudder. inside
me crowd the noise the greasy smell the half dirty table
clOths ana napkins the odors OF bad whisky and the
bacco stained oor arc quite enough to give him at
tack OF the collie certainly enough destroy his appette
while the bare mention OF such decaces pork aud
beans corned beef and greasy cabbage, liver and
bacon, would drive him absolutely to despair. With
u9h Dleu! que cest horrible. and with emphasized
dRoS to his companion he would rush from the place.
AZ his own little pet CAFE de PEfoite I'm the Quarter
Lain he can obtain FOR couple OF francs petit diner
which Is perfect specimen Of artistic excellence. The
window or the little restaurant Is rich i'm all those tempt
Ing dellcacics aptly expressed in the cOmesbe
Here are little portions Of pdH de Joe gds pats OF butter
arrived In that mornings train from the Swiss Mountains
delicious looking little cream cheeses from the plains OF
Lombardy which make his eyes sparkle and his mouth
water when he Deholds them mtersporsed with small
rush baskets OF trufes, satisfy and potatoes bright
looking bottles OF Spanish olives and tubs OF Russian
eaVlare arded eapOn or two. some crumbed sweet
breads on9 dlsh OF those entcP Pg orolaus with back
landlord receives him at the door all smiles and polite
ness aud bows HIM to his table The cloth and dinner
and as the trim dapper talkatve gdTcO hands him the
Debdfs and places before him variety OF little rolls and
pats OF buter arranged in every fantastic shape together
with little dish OF anehOyes sardnes pour sdnuser
he gives hungry grun Of satisfaction, and feels that tho
important business OF the day Is before him. He has his
p6dGe, hot clear and palata6e just morsel Of 6OuHOn
for o9ndation portion OF sole aH Ddtin folowedby
that would have delighted tho heart OF Sydney Smith,
aud would shame the kitchen OF many mansion on
IL
served little dinner with grand re1e ordinary Bor
toothplck both Of Which ho uses a Poatrance Happy
and eOntented he pays his two francs for his dinner gives
two sous TO the gnrcOn with the air OF aGrdEd
and departs TO smoke his cigarette, drink his coffee
tat scrs AT negh6orng care for the a5tute French
where coffee Is the sptc1iie) and read the Moner du
Sor or chatter with hs acquantances till 1t Is time 20 go
to the Odton the Varletes
There thousands Of young In this city who are
compelled either by their ayocatons or Dy the domsC
arrangements Of their families To dine IN the middle OF
the day II Is Of course, necessity with them that they
should frequent some place in the immediate vicinity OF
the stores in which they arc occupied Iney nave eose
quenty little choice as TO where they shall dlne ana
large numbers 81 them loudly complain and very justly.
Of the only rVle OF dinner when tney can oDi, ,n3 vi
tho discomfort Of the places where tey are 10
Among the ordinary run Of downtown dining houses It
Is not easy 10 nnd one conducted as TO make dinner
that pleasing refreshment and rational enJ9yment OF te
appetite which should be- or In which dinner may be
obtained In any way Commensurate with inc price
provide their customers with rscass meats IL is gen
orally coarse IN grain. snewy and tough, and III some
ccnty long To make 1t tonder and is not 80 carefully
cooked A. TO render It as palaabe as might be made
The kitchens attached TO these places are, generally
speaking, small nconycnent and unproyided with any
thing like suitable culinary Arrangements ITO cooking
utensils ar, by no means kept that sorupulOus state Of
cleanliness which they might be. and the contents OF the
stock pus FROM which the various soups and graViea
principally derive their origin. would make the unhappy
consumers Of these same soups and gravts stah agast
they could them Moreover, the carving Is 20
execraby inarstie that II mans appetite should hap.
pen 10 little delicate, the very sight ~ his plate of
int at would disgust him and no would in all probability
"aSo ono half Of the suewy Jumps for the benefit OF tho
stock pot and the upcaers OF the following day In
many Of these places the unhappy clerk has TO swallow
his dinner hc sits porched on high cane stool from
long counter without table cloth end without comfort
OF convenience oi any description. while during tue con
sumption Of his unsatisfactory repas some hungry ind
ydua stands mpatontly behind nm, anxlousiy waiting
10 occupy his seat aud mwardy ourslug him Tor MS slow
powers OF mhstlCatOu
There arc. however. few dining house Propriotors'
who appear to be alive TO the fact that aspnbc caterers
II d. much to their advantage 10 consider the wants
esabIishent that everything which splaced upon their
In qaarty. well cooked, well served, and moderate in
price We visited. tho other day, ar establishment on
inquiries into IA Internal management and economy
The brothers who the prOpTeors OF the place
arc unceaslDg In active superntendence OF tho working
their business Each has his own department To attend
10 and never THINKS Of deputng any part OF ia manage
ment to a subordinate. one OF them goes every morning
different markets, n the summer time as oarly aa
frm and nothing rs received into the kitchens signed
for that not been passed by him. He carefully in
Instantly rejects even the most nnng article which
Inc does not consider la every way first class The firm
employ nearly dozen different butchers hoping by this
competition insure the delivery Of superior meat They
hang their meat from weekto ten days In the Winter
time. and have always large STOCK hanging at tho
butch0rs beside considerable quantity IN their own
private They buy their Hour from the mlers, and
make their bread They import all their wines, spr
It's and liquors direct from Europe, which stored In
capacios cellar Oei9nEnH 70 the III tno heghoorh9ol,
aud transferred 10 the ce OF lh dlhhghoso as they
are wanted All the washing Of the house Is also done on
the premises InGy employ pSshsr & rp0nt @ % & genera Io
women cooks. Tho two dining rooms, the kitchens tho
furniture plate, linen, glass, etc., are all kept scrupu
lousy clean and any waiter eylncng the slightest M
cyity InatenuOn to the customers OK the house Is
The underground floor is wonderfully perfect its
rangemens It is divided into sections with continuous
the provision cellars two for meat and each for sb.
poultry vegetables, wne and beer varying In size ae
cording requirements; there Is also smaller wlne
cellar with an ingenious cOntryanoe for Icing bottled
wine Then couc the bakery which turns out about 900
oayes bread day, and where the pastry, biscuits,
and cakes made the grocery store In itself small
shoT the linen closets, the oroekeiy dePauthnen.' Ph'
boilers IRONING stoves aud steam drying room caPSblo OF
driving go dinner napkins at the same time; aud lastly,
le kitchen proper IN which are extensive ranges Oh
French cooking stoves, with every convenience FOR roast
ing ZOO pounds OF meat at one me several hugo
nnper boilers for tho various soups holding 10 or 80 gal
Ions a piece; aud other boilers for vegetables. hams,
heated by steam from the furnace. There IL also large
charcoal stove for Drong; and series OF steam tables
FOR keeping the cooked meat and vegetables not m tns
large establishment every one has his special duties as
sighed him. and undertakes no others except on t1o
special request OF the master INeiythuB hppeaiHS W
work groove There is no noise no unnecessary nns
excitement order ana regularity hlo
To- achieved while the customer has his dinner served not
and quickly The printed bill OF fare comprises no oWer
,Lan go different dishes, one OF when can DC OO
t"ned the prices apparently being much the same as at
hrr houses Tho Wine list Ia OF similar length anu va
i The propretOrs assert that many come distance
at their house and that their business has Deeh so
nrodtabe that they have lately taken another restaurant
pyrt dstnuce further down Broadway, which, though
Hing entaed heavy losses ON two or three previous
m~onrietors H.. under their able management payins
@ yeii I'm fact they express their surprise AZ the
t Of foresight and enterprise exhibited by their many
then the majority Of NewYork dining houses are
,rusibe 10 the real and only basis upon when tholr
sboud be conducted-saisfactiOn 90 their custom
@ and nro1t TO themselyes-why cannot the young