The New York herald., 1869-12-26

is4s and found everytn about M II appesreu
then: n changed at all for the worse. The long, par-
rem salt plans between Godul Aqua. wnero wo
preakrasted and Perote are untnteresting IN tho
extreme found Perote as left It, twenty-one years
ago cold. dreary. forsaken and enveoped IN ms''
situated At elevation above the sea Us great II not
Greater than that OF any town In the republic, the
climate Is always cold and disagreeabie. Ihe ad-
inin,strator OF the diligence had procured for me
horses and a guide TO take me to Tizutlan, over
good road or twenty. three miles, at the moderate
price or eight dollars and left the next morning
at I've O'Clock In the midst or cold aud exceedingly
dlsagreeable rain. The road led directly WeSs
across the plains Which were covered with ripeneu
barley, the only cereal that can, In consequence Oh
the low temperature, be produced here. we shorty
passed small mountain. covered with pine
forest where my guide appeared to apprehend rod
bers, but as the cold dlizzing rain continued 70
fall the robbers very sensbly kept within Doors
Tizultan, at which place wo arrived at noon, Is
beautiful little town or 900 or 5000 inhabitants,
built In the most substantial on the side Of
hill and extending to tho valley and along the
mountain gorge leading Co the TERRA Cauente.
There IL nothing remarkable about this town except
that each house occupies an entire square, anu az
the squares growing corn, reminding mo OF she
descriptions OF ancient Babylon Here obtained
another guide ana on extra horse poor sorry LOOK
ing animal but. according 90 the guide 'oue'o,
bVeao."
AT i've A. NJ, with our blankets wrapted closely
arcand us. we left Tizuitlan and commenced drop
ping down the mountains the road bong the worst
It has ever been my misfortune to encounter. IL
was pleasant to think that In few hours should
reach warm climate. Nine miles OF descent ana
the persplration burst out for the irst tmo III TWO
years. the length OF time since l last entered the
table lands. Not breath OF air was In motion, ana
Judging from my feelings, the Thermometer In the
sun must have registered little less than 1000
degrees
At noon we stopped to breakfast at little ranch
| DuIt OF reeds ana thatched with plantan leaves
Our breakfast consisted OF eggs and meat together
with tine ever present ''frijoies' and "tortilias"
| Having given our horses 0 little corn wc continued
! ON our journey, passing through one OF the most
beautiful well one OF the most fertile
countries l have ever seem Tho valleys
| were filled with the mos iaxurant grass and
| The mountains draped with ferns. Here and there
broke forth little farms Of and corn both as fine
earth produces. Tho co Information OF the coun-
try physically Is very singular, and Is tho samo as
had already noticed between Vera Cruz and Jalapa.
| Looking own from the mountain top mothor earth
| appears be recovering from attack OF small
pox. Nothing in sight but round hills and deep val
/ leys Frequently the pits approach each other 50
closely tn tho sides touch and between the TWO the
i rim but three or four feet wide, s0ping away on
either side hundreds OF feet at an angle Of sixty de-
| grees Winding along these rims our path leads,
| and the bowls for such they rescmpe-arc filled
with growing crops OF corn aud rice. soon we pass
INTO the land or the pantain ana vanilla. Here the
! cou ntry becomes more level, and glides into
the valley OF the Tecaua, bold, llmpd. beautiful
| stream, nearly two hundred yards Wide and un.
fordabe Ut TINS season OF the year Every eight or
ten miles we pass little Indian villages. with reed
|
zainbos. The latter the jenfe de rdso,pe0pe OF
reason TINS is the controlling race, while the ae-
scendants OF the original possessotS of the land
cupy the secondary position. ihl5 the descendants
OF the African savagcs through the cyzing process
or slavery, have outstriped the children OF Monte
| yuma, and demonstrated the correctness OF the
| doctrine OF Mr.. sumner that a few generations OF
slavery will do more to civillc the savage tnan all
the missionary societies. from tine l0imemorable
| down to the present day. Soon we reached Papan.
OF the hills which surround It on every side. The
pracipa commerce OF ,no town y 1 CONNECTED MIN
| the whole atmosphere Is redoieDt. This plant - a
native OF America and was found, ana Is stu to be
| found, wild in Mexico, cuba and other Islands
| or the West indies. IL ~ now, however, cul-
tvated some portions OF Africa and ASIA
| and to great extent IN the Island Of
| Bourbon The plant very mach resembles orii-
| nary creeper, the stem being about the size OF q
persons middle finger fatened, and adberes to the
tree on which II Chimes by means OF snal tendrib
| me bean grows very much ike the common pea.
cato structure to fall any distance from the plaut
| without being broken. rhe hover i5 yellow aud
| fragrant When the spanards nrst came 20 Mexico
| they found the Aztecs using II TO perfume their
| chocolate. II grows wlid IN the dense woods where
| it is very damp and impenetrabc TO the sun. The
| cultivation OF vanilla has been kept up III Papanta
| since the year 1850. Nearly all the vanilla exported
| nom Mexico comes from this place and Mi5antla
quantity gathered III those Two districts amounts
10 about two millions ana hair or beans. BurinQ
the past twenty years the price has varied from S22
| TO SI4o per thousand beans. the average value or
| vanilla sent to Vera Cruz each year, for which
| France Is the largest market. Is sls7.5O0
The TofonacoS, who arc the Inhabitants or Papan-
fnIa arat tba n tpana Iun
| mad yet seen. Their costume is light ana pctur-
| esquc and well suited TO the climate consisting for
the females, OF white cotton skirt, embroidered In
blue with lowers ugurcs OF horses and otner AMI
| mails. over the shoulders Ia thrown light gauze
| shawl. The hair Is allowed to tall naturally down
| the back or IL braided with red ribbons and banded
| about the head. The men are dressed IN large white
| corton pantaioon5. with SHIRT outside, wearing
| thetr heads neat jaunty straw hat. They have a
| much more manly aud independent hearing than the
| Indians on the upper plans. rne ro'onacs VIII be
| remembered as the inhabitants OF hs country wnom
| Cores found here when he first landed on Mexican
soil. They were his first allies, friendly from the
wsu 0as epsa rTs y aa @
5troycd their idols. Cortes py his tact, turned 70
| for this indignny, made them his firm friends
| partly from fear ana partly from interest
thus securing safety for his Vessels and munitions
| interior. rle good auvlce OF the rotonacs. thef
| faithful allegiance and good fighting resulted in the
| defeat OF the warlike Tiaxcalaps whose vaIor
| eventually 5ervlceabe IN the conquest OF he
| city or Mexico and the subJecton or the Aztecs.
Unlke the otbcr races they seem TO nave mixed very
little with the Europeans, aud are 10 great extent
free from the vices with which the others have been
contaminated and degraded. Here theJ remain IN
| nearly their original purify. the climate atroriiny
al almost iDsurnouncaO, barrier TO the encroaCh-
msnts OF the wnitc man. Knowing very little about
the actions OF the central government they care
stll lcss ike many other portions or the republic.
Their wants are few and such nature bountlfully
| supplies.
We left Papantaa In the morning during heavy
storm. Although the rain continued TO fal at
yals all day we continued to splash along through
| tie miry road or path and at sundown stopped at
| the house OF IamDo, with a Laughing squaw Here 1
| bung up my hammock, and my friend, an American
| Doctor, VINO had joined me ~ Papantaia secured
"patat" or staw mat, Tor hts bed. our supper
sisted Of eggs and frijocs.n Would you believe its
WIN grass foot high every where even TO the
steps, with thousands Oh lat cattle oiing In sight.
with pretty little calves frIskipg about. there was