The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1869-09-26
THE FASHIONS.

prise and W0manIy Adlnira tiOn-The ApOs-
toiicism of Costume and It's Lessons-in-
doors mt ~. Cioua-NapOie0n's Hospital
Room Garb-Dress Material aud Trimmings.
PARIS, Sept s. 1852
Pleasure seekers are fastidious in these times.
Like the apprehensive eastronomst, they wish to
know what the bill OF fare Is to be before they trust
their sppetites 30 the mercy Of wayside enter
ainer II they go TO the opera, who Is the diva to be'
and there must be diva II to play on the boule-
wards, how many tabeaux IN the pieces and there
must be a good many. II they take up book,
what Ia the story about. and how does IL
ends Ten TO one. in the latter case, no sooner
is their curiosity gratied than the volume Is doomed
before irs pages are cut. "Oh. nothing new after
ALL" Is the usual observation with which 1T IS dis
carded. or course it is very unjust to the author
but authors are generally new and not always novel.
They should comply With the necessities Of the pub
lie and have an unknown to write editorials for
them under their first title page. Besiaes 1t would
he considerable never to take readers unawares. To
explode tale before it ia told would only prove that
1t Is not an exploded idea and nervous people who
dislike sensations would not come on bigamast,
murderer. ghost ana dozen duels without notice
My letters ALWAYS have tale bill on the top. and
how sincerely whoever 1t Is who 'does" them
deserves my best thanks.
How carefully every pinned-up article OF attire
Is unrOlded by this to me unknown and displayed
TO advantage In order to attract the female eye !
Neither Ia it ordinary gift to and out what Paris
fashions correspondent means. what he Is driving
at and whether MIS- object is to be deferenal to the
fair sex or cutting-c0nsequenty veracous or
satircal. But my commentators headings prove
the discernment of GLADYS man." ana your
readers have but carefully TO down those at the
th1a cOumn COuhrmad in ONSer.
walton.
AZ gorgeous al what awaited Aladdin after he rub
bed nearly all the brass OF his wonderful lamp. A
vision of the tissues 0fered to the Empress by the
raiiate the ioveiiest hnes, on which are painted
with fairy brush the most graceful designs-a de-
scriptiOn Of the twelve robes will, am aware.
terminate in the bosom OF every lady, and grow
into inOrdinae desire TO be an empress also. Far
be from me to sow with my pen the tough roots Of
envy in the female heart-from 80 soft and light
soil every asperty should be banshed-but 1t is IN
duty to be graphic. At the same time would IN
sinuate with the art of Mephisophees. If had 1t,
| that every wife is her husbands queen, and could
any Of the latter cOn)ugals refuse TO do her the
homage OF az least one dress like the one OF the
twelve which she would select from the following
| sets naturally speak OF husbands from hearsay.
as If the state were my own with no wish to parade
| what should do in similar circumstances, and no
desire to get up notice for myself as trust shall
| never find anything "better," nor swear to take
ANYTHING worse" than singehood.
W1en the Empress passed through the room In
| which her twelve dresses were exhibited she was
magoaIly arrested by their beauty and the tasteful
| manner In which they were displayed. Each mate.
| rial had been placed. folded. hung, creased and
| waved IN its most advantageous position and light
by artists In the difficult science Of Ornamenting
| shop windows, and this IL almost one OF the fine
arts, cultivated nowadays to allure and insure
temptation. She approached the stands and con-
graduated tho decorator while expressing also her
The following Is the order In which the dresses are
olassed by the city OF Lyons the first mentioned
| The frst dress white poult with bououets
Of flowers In which no less than sixty hues are
blended. and all 30 harmonousy that not one is
| conspicuous The flowers are SO light that they
| seem to wave at every passing breath, and it IS
| averred that this feathery Ightness and richness
The second. cerise satin, strewn with white and
cerse roses the latter paer than the ground OF the
tone upon tone viii prevail in rich materials next
winter.
The third, white gros grain, without prilliancy.
roses. The flowers are nigh relief and appear to
stand out ready for some jeweled fingers TO Gull.
TDs gave s to this
strong, and like the cloth Of gold much employed
the middle ages i is called supreme CLOTH it
When lying down 1t ID simply sheet OF varied twi-
| light but wnen held up there Is changefu SHIN.
splendid 1as s 1Ss ousana
hues, varying from one gamut In the sapphire order
to the other. IL Is entirely new.
The sixth, an aqua-marine poult called Eau de Le-
man muslin. This word muslin applied to pout
derives its origin from the transparent rejection Of
the white on the pale green.
The seventh, peach. velvet q color noty vet
attempted for this costly material When moved IN
the hand 1t has all the down OF the peach on 1t and
within the thick folds.
me eighth. cbambery gauze with blue satin
stripes. The white stripe between each alternate
lilac one is brocaded with pompadour bouquet; the
lilac stripe Is brocaded with white satin nOwer and
The ninth, LOUIS XIV pink material camaeu--
f.e. pink on pink.
The tenth, a Campana robe that is Of the shade OF
the Pomperian vases, which are ornamental with
black Assyran figures; 1t Is neither brckdust, nor
red.
The vision is over and it conveys a lesson or So
Firstly, watteaux and cruMped up hippancy out
OF all seasOn-1adeS are to come out folded up;
secondly, brocades are to reign supreme, and this
will Introduce majestic styes-my predictions OF
last autumn, In fact; thirdly If these rich materials
are not adopted the Lyons workmen will starve,
and therefore Costumes must rule the day.
| If. on avertng our dazzled gaze from the splen-
doris above described, we seek for something on
which to rest, your readers can with an magma
leave thor natural eyes shut up for time Here in
the Emperor's bedroom they will see Napoleon ILL.,,
nearly quite recovered but not quite for he had
relapse on the day OF the Empress return from ner
VOYAGE TO the centenary In Corsica Then the I'M
peral Prince on arriving was most sunburned and
turbulent, he had 80 much to tell his father about
what strange sights he had seen and about those
queer Corsicans ana General Frossard, who had not
let him taste the national dishes, while he, the
General, ate them and gave himself-beggng his
fathers imperial pardOn-the collie.
he had 70 Tell so much, BESIDES how the Empress
had had to walk down narrow stairway on the
Aige, backwards. How she sprained her foot on
getting into an imn rial chaloupe when going
70 visit an ir0n-cad; how she had to borrow
the Comte Cosse Brissacs stick to be aole to
get along in the world at ALL how NJ. Torbe, OF the
Ga,ttots. VINO went out rs reporter for his own
paper lost his luggage and had to go to the gala
performance given at Ajaccio In flannel shirt, and
What q takein that gala was; how seaslck he had
been, ana could not, on landing bear the sight Of
his horse Ajax, after the tumble up he had had
queer wasn't 1t, papaw How offensive all the
police agents had been round him. and how he
wanted to peep about without their attendance
everywhere; and how, oh papa, how he had cried
one day wnen telegram came to his mother from
St Cloud with these words, signed by the doctors:
To-day the Emperor has had administered to him
when the Empress stopped, and the Prince
felt sure II was the last sacrament and began to cry
before she went on "a double dose Of qutnineo
How glad he was TO ind his father had not had the
last sacraments or the Church. but why mad tho
doctors used the word administered ~ the same
thing that had been done 10 Marshal Mel before ne
died.
This is the style in which the Prince went on until
midnight and OF course, 1t used the Emperor up
the next day and down the ROursp