The New York herald., 1869-06-20
PARIS FASHIONS.

Patrocini0-H0w Exiled spanish Nuns En.
pi0y their Hours.
PARIS, June l. 1869.
or unusual length this year has that favored period
been which IN the fashionable world Is called 1.-THE
season." A truly fantastic duration Of time Is this
fifth addition TO sprIag, summer autumn and
winter
Had been gifted by nature not to be fashion
writer, but poet like Thompson, | should have
made good deal Of the iifth season-in fact, have
done my best on all the feet poets proclaim its
charms As 1t Is. it being my duty to say something
for the departed. viii only try to do my worst IN
plain prose- Firstly, hope 1t Is not unrlghteous ON
Sunday to say like it better than the almanac
decks itself with the spoils Of each. 1t takes
the crisp icIce OF December for its brow, the
glistening dewdrop OF May for its bosom,
the light, vaporous clouds OF April for Its
skirts; the sunDeams OF all summer sport
in Its s,lken attre the blossoms Of every CLINE res
round It and cling all the closer through wlntry
nights when snow lies rhick outside and gasghts
shine within; the fruit OF our orchards, bound IN
garands tied IN sprays, tempt the watzer ana keep
him buzzing round the belle, Just as bee would
round the sweet berry; and as to the music OF ma
ture really some OF vOlatiles much superior
to Adellna Patti, III "SOmnambula," or the bowling
of the wind more inviting than the band OF Strauss
playing the final galop in .'Petit Fausta" Some peo
pie know do dance to any tune or fiddle; Others
cannot; and OF the two do think that the harmony
OF strong east wind with descending chimney pots,
is not peasurable as the hurricane Of "Felician
Davdn or ascension Of the dead in 'Robert the
Devl.n Then, again, people who like TO listen to
coniending elements, even al the expense OF a new
hat have but to walk to some playhouse where
Richard Wagner's "Renzi" Is being executed. More
over, contend that ''the season" combines every
bit OF poetry and vexaton OF spirit found in the
DOmncal seasons. Talk OF the coming up
OF green peas as being vexation from
the time they are sown till battered to
pieces by haistones, why. it Is no worse than
the coming out OF young lady in her teens to
be the victim of some lover whose title Is his only
fortune: however carefully she may have been reared
she Is sure 10 be crushed down some day. Talk OF
snares In the wheat helds, why, one would think
they are all in reserve for the pOacner whereas we
have them in the shape OF gamblers, and courticrs.
and Old maids, ana stepmOthers, at every bow
window. Landscapes and waterscapes. Well have
we not our land scrapeS on the turf and water
scrapes, too with yachting and rowing! Pastorals
look at our watteauX ut home in sky blue trimmed
with muslin nOunces and valenclennes; eegies?
look at our widows In plated grenadlne black tu.le
wells and flowing golden hair; TRUTH look at the
painting OF Henner al the Exposition this season and
see II the lady reclining on black satin couch has
thread OF clothes on her. say we have everything
the fifth season; then 1t goes about and stops at
ulHeFeuC pEiCe5 anu JltOSc WuO
which is thing propose as soon as Eugenie leaves
for FOntanebleau. 1t Will be very ardu0us, to be
sure etes are to be given for the VcerOy and the
Prince and Princess OF Italy, and the programme
says 'strictly private" have ascertained, how
ever, that "tableauX" are to be the gala spectacle
ana huntIag the daily sport
Before quite leaving court news WILL en- pas
sdat describe tile Empress' last dinner dress.
1t was nasturtlum.coiored pont made high,
Dut with revers and trimmed round wlth tulle
plating and futed founces between. Her head
dress was white lilac. The nieces OF her Majesty
wore white muslin at the rulere5 on Sunday even
lng with paniers OF muslin ruced with pink taffeta
Many guests having been invited to tea In the even
ing which was served ut ten, ladies attended in high
robes with large wide revers on their Sleeves and
bodces much trimmed with lace. Large gold crosses
on black velvet were worn so universally that they
looked like the uniform OF the evening. Tue Empress
retired to her apartments at eleven.
The first "taDleauX" looked forward to are to be
given by the exQueen Of Spain for her house-warm-
ing at the palace she has purchased. Her son, whom
she calls AsturIas, Ii TO pers0nate Philip H. He has
a strange likeness to this monarch even down to a
be IRON paintings OF the Spanish arCsts those
OF veiasquez having the preference;
The ''iableaux" at the ball OF Madame do Pour
tales went Or admirably; but better still the little
picnic composed OF fonr In which the lovely hostess
aud her husband and Madame de Metternlch and her
husband alone figured ~ ST. German.
This square party had long determined to enjoy
day by themselves without witnesses. Lunch was
to be laid out in one OF the pavons at the Palace
OF st. Germain. The forest was to be explored In
the afternoon and dinner taken In the evening at
Paris The programme was carried out, with
exception namely, that a witness-0ne 0ny-stood
at the gates OF the Embassy to see what the ladies'
mad put on; the unit felt much tempted TO scramble
up behind the chaise with the champagne basket,
wnen the Ambassadress shook her finger at him for
being caught on the watch. but stern duty turned
about like weapon IN his inside. and he bowed her
Eminence of without any apparent lingering round
u more elevated position.
'.Pray DON'T put us this time In print" was what
was said as the last OF the ladies' heels had van
ished from the early watchers enraptured gaze. in
obedience with this injunction Will only describe
the two toilets leaving your readers TO fancy which
belonged to which. one, the blonde Il mention no
names), was IN black, without sign OF any crino-
line: indeed, there was none. The costume was
made with one deep nounce headed by q Douilonne
fred on both sides. The white underpetti-
coat was bordered with valenciennes, which was
much seen In front, but not behind; the
front breadth OF the black pou had been cut short
intentionally ior the display OF the wide lace. Ihe
revers edged with white Valenciennes lace upon the
cuffs; paner or p0uf Of black silk with narrow
founce edged with valenciennes. spanish hat
made OF black lace was envened IN front by
cluster OF streaked carnations OF different bright
coors. The earrings were Of the newest shape,
pure golu and crystal de roche mirrors These mir.
rors are ovas, surrounded with worked gold
mounting. Under the handle Ii the hook which
attaches them to the ear.
The other lady, the brunei, was in the new foulard
material called celeste empire. 1t Is thick and
glossy. The costume was made OF two shades now
known as Paris mud"-a kind OF yellow clay with
brown on It, The petticoat was OF the light shade,
with ten narrow nounces all round OF the darker:
over this to the tight bodice o tufic Of the light
edged round with ruching and nounce with bows
of the dark going down the middle OF IT, The
bonnet was pouf OF black lace, with q tiara OF
lines of the valley and roses ntermxed; over the
face strip OF white tule pinned on the cnignon be-
hind; very large bail earrings and i've rows or neck
lace TO match Of black cut jet.
Roses are all the mania still, the loveliest being
called the Empress OF the French and the newest the
Lion Of Combats. They are copied from nature, the
first specimens being produced at the hothouses Of
the city Of Paris-la Muette. The Empress OF the
French before which all hats should properly go
down. IL full, very full rose; its petals outside are
OF the brightest carmine, but within they are like
pale pink satin. Inc Lion OF Conbats Is large
lose, which coming out OF the bud Is OF bright
red but as the hours pass 10 turns parpIe, and
old IL crimsons deeper and darker, reddening 1t
were to be defeated bv the hand o decay, up to the
very end OF its life Few select this gorgeous RISE
for bonnets but IL ~ much sought on tulle robes OF
pale cltron. The Flag OF ST LOUIS ~ another favor
lite rose; each petal hangs loosely and, ike banner
fans the breeze. II IL splendid pouf for evening
headdress on the top OF waved nair, and OF deii-
cate China pink. The Glory OF Dion Is a full white
rose with pink and salmon tints. other approved
taras for fanchons and hats are black currants
mixed with moss rose buds, white lime tree bios