The New York herald., 1869-09-07
DR.. HAYES ARCTIC EXPEDITION.

pies.
DR.. HAYES ARCTIC EXPEDITION.
~~>>~~>~-~~~~~>~->~~>~~~-~
Progress Of the Panthcr-Hsr Arrival at
JulIanshaab-A Ball In Her Honor-A
Remarkable Glacier-Nlnorals In Green-
land-Futnre Diovements Of the Expe-
dition.
lvfdTUT, SOUTH GREENLAND July q, 1859.
We arrived here yesterday, and as there is ves-
sci nearly ready to sail for Philadelphia take ad
vantage Of the opportunity and send you an account
Of our proceedings up to the present time.
On the Sd inst. we sailed from st. Johns New.
foundland, at noon, and steered to the nOrthward,
keeping close In shore Between five and SIX O'Clock
2. M. passed between Bacalou Island and Break
heart Point-the south point Of Trinity Bay-and
took our ilnal departure from Cape Bonavlsta at
eight O'Clock. Nothing Of especial importance
occurred for the next few days as we worked slowly
along towards Greenland. Slowly, 1 say, for the
Panther is py no means q clipper, ana being very
deep with over 500 tons Of coal aboard she did not
average more than seven knots an hour. We
had expected that Disk0 would be our first
stopping place. but experiencing much stormy
weather. with heavy head and cross sea, against
which but little progress could be made, visit to
Julianshaab was determined on and ct noon OF
the Sth We steered more to the eastward. Saturday
the 10th, at noon, Cape Desolatton Qat. 10 As,
Ion. Al 57) was In sight to the northward OF u.s.
and we expected to be at destined port the next
morning; but the weather set in thick and
foggy, so that when land was made on Sunday
morning 1t was uncertain what part Of the coast 1t
might be. A boat was sent out towards the land
exploring but after an absence Of two hours, dur
ing which it had been beating about in the fog, re.
turned without having seen any signs Of inhapltan.
Being unpleasantly near TO breakers we concluded
to look for harbOr and wait for fho weather ana,
as the fog lifted little towards nOOn the boat was
sent ahead to look out for sunken rocks, while we
steamed cautiously along In her wake. finally moor
ing In partially sheltered bay. with one anchor
down and lines made fast ashore Subsequent
observations placed this anchorage about ten miles
southeast OF Cape Desoation.
Here we lay until Tuesday, when the anchor com.
menced dragging and we steamed away TO better
harbOr that had been discovered a couple OF mil es
to the westward. When the anchor came up 1t was
minus the stock, which had broken or and disap.
peared. We lay at this last anchorage until Thurs.
day. the 18th, before the weather cleared so that 1t
was safe to 60 to sea. At noon Of that day we
started dosing the stock Of the other anchor while
unmOoringb and arrived at Julianshaab. in latitude
80 25, longitude As IS, about two A. NJ. Friday under
the pilotage Of three Esquimaux, whom we fou nd
cruising or shore In their kyacks looking out for
seals and other game
Danish settlements and Esquimaux villages have
been frequently described Of late years that do
not deem 1t necessary to in1ict you detailed &C.
count OF this one. as they all have the same half
civilized, half ailapidacd air, combined with
variety OF ''nagrantly 0di0us" smells, which would
rival those In the far-famed city Of Cologne. In
the evening ball In honor or our arrival
was given In the carpenters shop, and was
largely attended by the beauty, fashion and
rank Of the place, who so densely crowded
the room that the odors in and from 1t became very
rank indeed, almost enough so to "smell to
heaven" This was so unpleasant that few OF our
party could bear 1t more than few minutes at O
time but with the assistance Of the Panther's crew.
who were less fas tidious, the fun grew "iast aud
furious" and maintained until long after dawn,
for we ore 80 near the Arctic circle that there Is
twilight in the sky all night and ordinary print can
easily be read at midnight. The ladies here wear no
crinone and their dress so nearly resembles that OF
the men that the uninitated cannot readily dstin.
guish the sexes apart which at first led to some
laugnabe mistakes In the choice Of partners; but,
generally speak ing,
All went merry as marriage bell,
the ladies acqultting themselves we'll especially in
the waltz schottische ana polka, having perfected
themselves In these accomplishments under the tul.
tion Of the Danes.
DR.. Hayes here found an Old acquaintance in the
person Of Mr.. Anton, the pastor, who was formerly
stationed at Upernavik, and under his direction
party visited KakOrtok, about nftcen miles north
east from here, where there ancient tns,
supposed 10 he relics Of the NOrhmen who were
c00nized there In the ninth and tenth centuries.
The principal ruin-that Of cathedral-is sixty feet
long by forty In breadth, with walls four feet thick,
which IN some places are yet from fifteen to twenty
ieet high, remarkably firm and In good preserva-
ton. Some excellent Photographic views were
taken anu the party returned highly grati6ed with
their excursion, the only drawbacks 10 perfect salts
faction being the flies and mosquitoes, which were
poth lntolerable ana tntermlnable-the latter not
only larger but more venomous than those generally
seen at home.
Having taken many views OF the settlement and
the scenery in Its vicinity, sailed from Julians-
haae on Monday, the 10Th, under the piIotage Of a
very Intelligent halfbreed, who Is Governor or
superintendent OF Kaksmint, station about thirty
miles to the westward, where we shall make brief
stay In order TO visit remarkable glacier not far
irom It, we reached kaksinint early Tuesday
morning having picked up by the way an ooDeiak,
or Wornan's boat containing part OF our pilots
family who were going TO meet hun at JulIanshaab.
Although this boat had ten persons aboard, they
comprise only traction OF the Old mans family lie
having twenty-five children OF his own, the youngest
but SIX months old six adopted children and ten or
twelve grandchildren His wife Is also halfbreed,
and some OF their daughters are quite pretty,
haVng blue eyes and brown hair whlle tho rosy hush
on their cheeks and their regular features Indicated
semi European origin. The Old man gave us
ball In tho evening, which was grand affair, and
| our party having either overcome their rcpugnance
their own sox OF else attracted by the Governors
comparatively pretty girls entered Into The spirit OF
| IT and enjoyed themselves "hugey.n
| and after following devious course among the
islands for ten or twelve miles, came 70 the nord
leading TO sermitslalik at which place Is the glacier
4 was Rotlced that tas waterlgrsdually changed IN