The weekly North-Carolina standard. [volume] (Raleigh, N.C.) 186?-1869, 1869-06-30
FASHIONS.
Iron the Moniteur de Paris. ]
PARIS. Nav "a, 1858

81
Paris as it did with you in London, quite
unexpectedly, SO suddenly, indeed, that no
one was prepared for mild weather Since
then a change of temperature has, during
brief interval, rendered garments of velvet
and cloth perfectly suitable for outdoor
clothing; but the time has now arrived
Z in harmony with the sunshine and flowers
of the season.
The so-called costume requires no incon-
siderable amount of attention when the
object is to arrange them with economy as
well as with taste The prevailing fashion
is in favor of the COSTUME complet THAT
is to say, all OF one material, which necessa-
ny increases the expense. A casaque OF
black silk cannot now, as in former seasons,
be worn with a robe OF any color or mate
rial .afi
Black has been prevalent throughout the
whole of spring; but in the month OF June
it must be partially laid aside; otherwise we
should recommend costume of black silk
or black reps.as being at once convenient and
elegant. But the reign Of black must I'M
questionably be suspended. 80 .i
The cnrsages of robes are now absolutely
works of art. Whether high or low, the
make of corsage demands the exercise of
a high degree of taste and skill. The high
corsage may belong either to the robe or the
pardessus. By attaching two basques or
small paniers to the corsage a garment is
formed suitable for outdoor wear, without
any additional covering; by removing the
basoues or paniers the robe becomes at once
a plain indoor dress.
A high corsage may be made in several
different styles. First, it may be plain and
close in front; secondly, it may have revers
or lappes, lined with color corresponding
with the trimming of robe; thirdly, the
revers may be of same color as the robe
ITSELF and opening over gilet; fourthly,
the corsage may have jabot or frill of lace
down the front; or, finally, double ruche
corresponding with the trimming on the
cuffs and shoulders.
Low corsages likewise present considera-
Bile variety, especially in the style of trim
ming and ornamentation. First there is the
corsage berthe bouillonne, to which is at
tached fall of blonde or lace. Next there
is the Corsage Velleda, decidedly the pref
tiest of all the new styles 1t is disposed in
large box plaits, spreading at the top and
narrowing towards the waist. These plaits
are disposed over the whole corsage, at the
back as well as in front, and they are con-
fined at the top by narrow band of colored
satin. The corsage a la oierge is another ia
vorite STYLE as is likewise the cOrslet of satin
worn over an embroidered chemisette, trim
med with lace. 1t may also be mentioned
that bre,tellcs, either of satin or taffeta,
trimmed with lace are exceedingly fashiona-
bic. Sleeves fol low corsages are very short,
and without much fullness. Those corsages
made without sleeves have epaulettes
For evening dress nothing is at present
more fashionable than robe of white muslin,
trimmed with rich Valencienncs. This sort
of trimming is, as may be supposed, enor-
mously expensive. The lace fou muslin
dress recently made cost no less than three
thousand francs
Another style of evening dress, exceed
ing elegantly and less costly than that just
mentioned consists of robe of white or
gandi muslin over slip of colared silk.
Pink, pale blue. citron and hiac are the IA
vorite hues. Pink is decidedly the best
color for night light Lilac is more elegant,
and to fair complexion more becoming
than any other; but it is color that shows
well only by daylight. The single advan-
tage in wearing lilac for evening dress is
that it admits of an amethyst parure, and
lilac flowers in the couture, both of which
are very suitable for demi-fnll dress The
corsage of these organdi muslin dresses
should he in box plaits, Ia Ueile la, as men
toned above. The sleeves may be finished
with sahots of blonde or Valenciennes, head
| ed by ruche of thy same color as the slip,
which, as well as the organdi robe. should
have small train. The robe may be edged
at the bottom with narrow flounces or bouil-
tonnes, or with with or two ruches of the
color of the slip.
Ruching is now most fashionable style
of trimming, and there is new method of
making it, which we will describe For
| example, black ruche, destined for dress
of black taffety, should have the edges cut
| or notched The ruche should he formed
| of two strips OF silk, one narrower than the
other, the narrow strip to be within the
broader one. Suppose the robe TO he of
taffetas glace, shaded in violet and black, or
| green and black, the ruching should be
made of taffety OF the two colors in the
shades of the dress and the strips of silk
should be cut bias They may be raveled
| out ut the edges, SO AS to form a sort of mar
! row fringe Ruches male in this way have
| beautiful effect. They may be disposed in
various ways but the most prevalent style
is to place one row for heading at the top
of the fiounce oftlle upon; two other rows
may be disposed in any lanciful way on
| the skirt of the robe, and another may be
employed in heading the narrow founce
which edges the paniers or the basques. To
finish the costume the corsage has frequently
two small square hasques, falling over the
paners, and superceding the ceinture and
bows at the back of the waist. a7
Ruches, bias bands, and narrow fiounces,
are at present the most iavorite trimmings
for dresses. For colored dress the trim
ming may be of the same color; but black
ornamentation on colored dress is not con-
sidered to be in good taste.
Some novel materials for spring dresses
have been introduced in Paris this season.
Among the most admired, we may mention
those designated mohair glace," mdiiair
Pacha," ''taffetas de laine glace,' with a
chain pattern in silk; bengaline." sort
of very lustrous poplin, and Japanese
cloth;" the latter is a very pretty texture,
and is chiefly in shades of drab or grey. 1t
is well adapted for dresses of the ordinary
kind.
UNPRECEDENTED EMIGRATIoN-A letter
from one of the Liverpool steamship agen-
i.