New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1869-11-18

alternate ones are cheese shops; "cremeries is the
pretty name for them, which should think, judging
by nv wounded Olfact0ries in passing Them would
require q gen daTme to every cheese to prevent its
going off on its own hook, and setting mp crem6rie
by itself. But. about half way up, the gloom OF the
innkShOps and the crem6ries lifts little and the
festive air of the cemetery prevails For every SHOP
now, is not shop but booth, TO express myseli
Fenian-fashlon and is devoted TO the sale OF iunera
wreaths, and tombstone ornaments OF every descrp-
ton. general gamboOgey tint is given to the street
on either hand by the prevalence among tnese wares
of the yellow immortelles, but the eye Is reIleshed
on closer examination with wTeaths OF DOX anu
laurel, bouquets of imitation panses, ana real
flowers of all the sorts that in bloom at TINS seas
Here and there comes upon booth Tor the
sale of iron crosses and graveyard ratings and now
and then there is booth where, II you IKE you can
buy stone monument or cross and the men are
there who will put it up for you Mt a moments no
tice, but there are exceptions as rnle the lminor
tees and knick -knacks have 1t all their own way
and the competition must be something 1Tlghtlul'
But yOu not lmpoTtuned to my a decorous
silence prevails, and the only thing like streetcry
that caught came from young lad who was selling
Virgins in plaster, holding two III each hand, ana IN
hardened abandoned style, informing the pasSers-
by that they were cheap. two franc anu an
all fresh" In the statuaTy line, the Ia
yorte wares seemed 10 be thg w "1a 81 nnt
upon the graves of little children, and the other is
most frequently found upon the little affairs that are
erected in the chapel tOmbs which make three
quarters / should think, of all the monuments IN
Pere-la-C haise Ny yOture had not been long IN the
Rue de Ia ROquette before the horses fell naturally
looking ont before and behind the reason was evil
dent in the long line of votures, all whose horses
were taking the same gait as mine. There was one
long procession going, and another coming, ana on
each of the narrow sidewalks there were two loot
professions trying TO do the same two things Dut
continually coming to MISUNDERSTANDING upon
their respective rights and sTayng distraCtedy ana
cOmposedy into the cutters, and among the horses
feet in consequence. And the rain drllZZed down,
and the mud swashed about and the crowdadoptedi
inYective its ordinary way of expressing tseii,
and II welcome relief TO find ourselves In the
open Boulevard de Menmontaut that runs along the
front of Pere-la-Chaise. Here too the carnal
man is offered something better TO teed upon than
dyed immOrtees and laurel wreaths and plaster
images Something better. perhaps-at all events,
something TO eat If you are hungry enough to DOit
these cuts of pie these tough-Oolng brooches these
heaps of gingerbread these baked pears, which are
offered in shrl voices by the makers of them, who
fast the hungry, wet, and ndlscTlinnate crowd
deyours one batch pulls another smoking lot out of
the Verify the scene is ike that OF the far AT
St. Cloud over again III some particulars, only WIN
policemen for the more intelligent and interesting
monkeys and soldiers for the legitimate mounte-
banks. For, you must know that this most paternal
Government having been so successful III putting
down the instruction OF the 2Gh that never occurred,
thought it would be ready for whatever riots OF
demonstrations might be made over certain dead
reCOncileabes on the Jour des Morris so the police
men, in their ugly three-cOrnered hats and long
hooded cloaks, were everywhere as chick ~ ants.
and horse soldiers were stationed III courtyard OF
the cemetery near the Israeiites buralplace TO 9e
ready to mount the moment "quelqne chose cOnsld-
cradle" should occur. The cemeteries were
apparently III state of siege, and Pere-la-
Chase looked as it may have looked in 1914, when
the Russians attacked IT, gethngin Paris that way
But soldiers and policemen had their labor for their
pains and no pleasure to sOace themselves with but
that of having again insntod Paris with "A demon
straiOn of the suspicious and evil thoughts of her
rulers. Ii was at MontmaTtre, where Baudin and
Gen. Cavagnac are buried. that trouble 1t was pre-
tended was to be looked for but of course no trouble
took place. Thousands upon thousands visited these
two graves, and they were covered from sight with
votive wreaths, not official wTeahsN such as the
~ lyc nt
along the railing of the Column OF the Place Ven
dome, but wreaths placed by SUMMARIZING hands
upon the graves of true friends of France. But all
was done in order, and no arrests were made SO that
Door Petre has been than ever the butt OF the
inextinushabe laughter of the newspapers not too
dignifed TO laugh and make laugh, of which, thank
heaven, there are still left more than few.
EFreenncch cemetteFy IS queer sight at
any time, but tits queerest such day
as this of the jour des Morts. At first found II
rather affecting, but soon II became toomuch for me-
and confess that before had finished the round
and tbs no s ght affair to go the round OF Pere-la-
ChaiSe-I found the silence and absence OF paraded
grief in the Jews corner very refreshing. Every
one of these thousands upon thousands came with On
offering of some soTt-a wreath of lmmOrtcllcs. "A
plaster image, a bunch Of flowers, real or make-be-
heve a rope Of glass bead-wOrk or wreath OF the
same material, and hundreds with candles and find
lug out the destined in this wilderness, where
they lie so thick that there is not room anywhere
for even the small slab that might mark the resting
place of little child. The greater part of the mon
uments are little chapels of stone, small houses, III
fact some large enough 70 hold single person stand
ing and others capable Of accommodating three or
four There is a door. like regular street door. III
'front.' windows of stained glass at the back or Sides
and an altar with cross or stone upon
it; these things mark all the chapes, small and
great and differ only in the size and elegance which
vary according to the means OF those who provide
them. The surviving friends come along with
wreaths in their hands, and sometimes half dozen
strung like rings OF bread their arms with flow
crs candles and whatever else they have provided.
They reach the chapel, tumble IN their pockets for
the door key, unlock the door IN frank. business
way 90 in, put the candles III the candlcstCks, the
flowers in the vases, the wTeaths on the permanent
hoops provided by the builder, and then either
kneel down TO say their prayers or st down on the
chair-there is generally one if the chapel il of any
size-or on the doorstep if there is no chair, and
read in their prayer books. There is no privacy
aimed at no shrinking from observation ana INC
one thing that must strike every observer should
think is the entire absence of sentiment or feeling
of any kind in this most sentimental of fetes. OF
course | know that Judgment on such
and | have no reason TO be willing to
speak lightly carelessly about the French people
| only give the impression made upon my
mind in my three or four hours walking about their
cemeteries. saw hardly anything that looked like
grief but much that looked like business. Indeed,
had one little experience that nearly drove all power
of seeing things truly out of my mind. Passing
down path more retired than the rest / suddenly
heard coming from out great tomb on my right the
sounded like a tiff. The " Hark from the tOmbs a
doleful sound" as twas Watts his name that wrote
II p came to my mind, ana not Wishing TO De caves
dropping hurried Oh. But could not help hear
ing cihquante centlncs.' uttered in dlSpleased,
not 10 say angry tone by remOnstrant Evidently.
too much had been expended on lmmortelles per
hans or a virgin do MT mean, however, 10 give
this as a type of my experience. If there were not
many evidences OF deep feeling there was serious
ness aud dgRty aud the patent proof that the dead
are MOI forgott,n I'M this avalanche of memorial that
hides from sight the ground itself and all that
can be hid of the monuments that cover II:
Once too IN lonely place came upon party OF
real noutners whose grief was too sacred for an III
tmders eve but on the whole there was nothing to
make me alter my slowly forming opinion that the
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