, 1869-07-17
An AMERICAN ABROAD: !:

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Letter from Nup1es-Itniiun Sum.
mcrs-T Their Flcasnntuese - Tho
EItTs Its GAYEtF nud Attractions
Tho Tofea0--Tho nRY and its Bcnu-
-tY-Enn CArJn M d IAe Other Thon.
: trcs-populnrIty.o of Puichtnelt@-
; Comm cuts on the Collection mt ihe
muKco Borbon1ro. .
NAr1xs, Italy, June 9, 1861.
Most tour1sts eeern to have dread OF Southern
Its1y during the summer, md very few venture so
far down rs Naples after the month Of May !
hsve been agceeahly disappointed in the tempera-
ture here II Ia warm In the sun from II to 3. but
ye1J pleasant In the shade, and there Ia refresh
Ing breeze all day. The mornings hnd evenings
ana delightfully."-. cool, and 10 M American the
weather u particularly grateful. nm confident
II Ia much warmer st this time In New York CT
even In Chicago. than II Is IN Naples.
\ s7ExEo7IFKD THINE
The Thermometer hhA not been noo7e 81 degrees.
and We cal1 that cool In country. lou know Tha
quality Of the heat, too, u different froW what K
is In the UntEed States 1t Is not oppressive nor
exhaustive, ns 1t Il with uA It rarely produces
proIuse Precipitation, and euns.foke Ia almost uu-
known. The ItalIanH suffer occasionally from
whAt tAcJ cal! sun-ns11, xhlch Is nothing mora
than a shaIp, rrtck1ng sensation In or near the
temple, but which alarms them 10 that they rush
Iult LIE uQI3f AQu AuA tV4lC NAk AVA 4etGAoA
da5s. What they would do u men and
horses fell dead IN the ttreet by tho
fcorc, os happens n America. cannot
imagine They would dll the churches With
lamentations, and Keep the countless priests OF
tits taeerdotal land tuBy With uasses and expls-
tory prayers.
Many Of these people avold the sun AZ they do
fresh Wn&er and soap: but otheEs-the comuoneat
class-are quite Indifferent 10 the 0trcest raJs M
and prosperous ItalIaua rarely 60 ont after 10 In
the morning, or before IN the afternoon, aud
they hug the shade as II pestilence lag beyond It
They wonder ut the tupsudence o1 the Anglo
Eaxons Ia exposing themselves 10 the Eun, and be-
liere they br1ve death in rhc most reckless m4a-
peF They have pForesb thar only Auleric1ns, :
Engl.h and dogs walt Id the sunshine; but they
forget 1bat their csherneH, the!T 1aooaets tad
their louDseys WOO It as Il they wers Pa1sees~ :
-,1uK CI1r. -. 80
: This Is The time when everybody Is supposed 70
be out Of town; but tho hypothesis Il not At all
sustained, Al glance At tho Toledo 1ha chia)a,
uy the Vula Reale eny. evening Will abundantty.
prove. You are AFate that the Neapolttans boast
ofthe Toledo as one Of ths finest streets On tho.
continent; but tnere Il teag FerF ltsla Of IT, II
IL not mUe than = mia md quarter long r1thtf
naI7tws md mAde to appear ua1roHer ~ the
height Of the houses. None OF the buildings asn
either handsome or Imposing. and even cleault-
ness Il often Sought In vain. Aany Of tho shops
make elaborate tsptaJs, nnd, u11ez dark lind
certaln btilliancy to the street- ..,. =
The Toledo Is the f2yoflta promeaada Of the
city, mud, on Sunday morning. and from 6unset to
O'Clock, 1t q fnI1 Of elegantly. dressed men
And women and handsome turuo1Ei
The car1iages here, as throughout ItMJ. a1e
open. and give full view ot the Hders, producing
q much better effect than DO our close Tehic1es.
Many of tha women dispense with hats, and, as
they haze dne hair, seEy largely tnelr own. the5
are improved by their honnetless condition. In 20
city IN 1.aly does one Anything Ike tho number
OF carriages he sees In Eapea- Their rolling, with
their merry oceupapts IN one continuous line,
along the chtaJa, the Toledo, aud the bsy, leads
bemblance Of gn5ety to Naples that reminds ono Of
Paris or Vienna.
This Is, unquest!anably, tho mast lively city Ia
ltaly, and much the largest-- OF lste years. its
population has increased 80 rapidly, that II aa now
called eight OF nine hundred thousand, though
that nust be an e4sgperaton- I Iptcsatne SIX hau-
dred thousand would be much nearer the II nth.
wh{ch is remarkable, for 1t shoNs IN Increase ol
nearly tyu hundred thousand n ten 5ears- No
pies has lsrge and growing commerce, cors!dera-
BE manufacturing Interests. and an excellent
tocM trade
JETELBy.
Its lewelrI. especially lts co1pls, Is dese1Eediy
celebrated, and the annual. ga1es arc rery large.
OF courEe Americans nTe the frec5t and most
generous buyers, sud are universally regarded rs
the most Desirable pa!sonA can conceive what
s ten nptatlon the shors OF the Toledo mast be to
woman who hps fuu parse and a liberal hus-
band. Gold and cotul and Iewela ara thete ex-
posed IN such fascinating forma that the feminine
eye must make the e1t1ayagant hand. She who
would hot peril her tyrapis bank account while
gazing at the treasury at pretty ulngA Il Indeed
model Of prudence. JcWcltJ Is rot 50 very cheap
DeTe aA many suppose, though Il can be bought
for about 80 to ~ per cent less tna tco1ld IN the
United 5latea
TIE yILLA EEALE
Is The name given 10 the public garden sk1rtlng
the western part Of II bay, which makes that
quarter OF The town verJ pleasant 1t ls handsome
II laid out with walks and n0Wef-bcds,
md fountains, but. is too narrow to I've impoalng.
Every eyeuiug them Il mrsc IN the Sllla by ono
Of the Icgmcrfa1 bands, End II attracts crowd Of
persons who tlt tn and before the catea, drink
ing, smoking, talking and often flirting, to the va
no1s aiss that arc performed. Tue scene recalls
PaEis ,norc taan taythsng have Witnessed since
leaving the French capital
TIE HAT,
Ike everything thal Is 80 famous, ls At hrst, dis
appointing. STU It Is beautiful, aud you ind thht
It's blue symmetry satna upon you Is sou grow &C.
quainted with It. 1t Ia difficult to get complete
view Of the bay from any part Of the town; hut
when you 20 out upon II or ascend Ycsn5lus. or
sal o6 TO 1schla or CaPEt yon behold It in all It's
plcturesquenesA As body OF water do not
think It superior to the Bay Of New York; but It's
anchorage Is much superior The heights Of The
city, Mount Somma, Yesuyira, the peculiar bend
Of the taud, procihA, pozzuo1 and Sorrento, all
make the bay pnre poem Of the sea.
1t locks ike q y1st turquoise set IN the
golden sunshine and crowntng the larger jewel OF
the Mediterranean have tired to feel Indifferent
to the 6sJ bat 1t bas conquered me With liz lore
liness, aud 1ny tny slender garland Of admiration
at its graceful feet Let no CHE leave here With
ont salIlug oyer the sparkling crescent under the
glorious sunshine. Having done that he WIN con-
less that Tie great reputation OF the bay Is not
unfoundcd.
When satltns DOM 70 Soucnto in q dsncrman's
boat the other day the dreamy lines OF Buchanan
Reads poer, ran IKE musical rtvnict through my
memory. ! heard the wAves kay:
With dreamy eyes
Unecr tho v s1h CT Paradise,
and then creI rise mufuured Gloas and over The
enchanting water.
By the by, Read told nc IN Rome that when he
composed "Drtntrgz" be had never been in M"
ples, and that II he hal been he could not Ea<o
written the poem, because actual observation !
changed his Ideal OF the charming lay. 1t
Ecenls there are advantages sometimes
IN describing what you bave not seen except
with the minds eye There Is no question but
nature hiss an awkward way Of Sliding the feir
iaocy We have conjured up. Imagination Is above
and beyond all reality. and nothing created can
easisfy The creating poEeE
THI aAN CAR1o.
or the eight theatres, of coursc the rcuowned
San Carlo stands ut the heud. It 1djoins the Royal
Palace ncar the Piazza def Castcl1u and Is one O!
the largest opera houses IN Europe. II has str
IietS Of boxes-pne bunfrrJ and nlnetJ.tWo In
aIl-wilh Large parquetle, and WILL hold dEe thou
band persons 1t Ia heavily g1lded, but iooss
somewhat dinJ, and It's Interior Il neither attrse-
tire nor strEtng. II wa4 closed on the 1st Of May
but you cau see 1t BY handing carltno or two 10
any one Of the unde1llngs who arc 10 ba found
during tho day In frpnt Of the house.
Charles tho Third o1derrd 1D erection, and it.
architect Angelo Cafasal, had q Sad death Oh
Account Of ia judgment, no aoubt, as the ago
nlxinRly evangelical would ear. for his extreme
wicteduets tn fut,drg theatre he delshted
the k1uK IN constructing It, hut, being unable to
explain some Of his accounts satisfactorily. nc Was
thrown into St. Elmo where he died after Ave or
Ax yezrs Of confinement Hts royal master,
though he knew the architect 10 be poor and de-
serving, permitted the poor fellow to pcrsh ~
inches, never interesting himself IN the smallest
degree In his fate.
Fan Carlo has heart tho notes Of the most
famous singers Of scvera1 generations, and nun.
Der Of removed opcraSsuch as Lucta, Sonnaubuls,
Noses Glurameato and otners we're 11st gwen
Within rs wallis The present structure WAS re-
bullt In 1877 (he old theatre having beea destroyed
~ nte> bot With the original Hnlls and on the
Gent plan. It's cost Is said 70 hare been oves
s., ,ooa.o01
OTHER INL4}REa,
There are savcn or eight other theattas here-
The Fondo, also an opera house, Is nearly CEN
tuTJ Old, sftcT the model OF the San Carlo, under
The sane Management and With the saDe per- 1
formers II second and E1slle1 edition, and
CnsN rfrn