The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1869-09-24
FALL FASHIONS.
OPENING DAY m TIE METROPOLIS.
The Latest Styles in Bonnets, Suits,
Shawls, ClOaks and Dress Goods.
Friils, Feathers, FlOunces and Fri
yOlities for 1S69--7O.

Yesterday was fixed upon by the majority OF the
nodistes-and In fashions as in everything else the
majority rule-f0r the opening day OF the fall sea-
son. 1t was not an suspicious day; for the heavens
drowned and several times threatened to drop tears,
which, out OF consideration perhaps for the many
fair promenaders, they did not. The shrnes OF the
chameleon deity were decked out in all their bril-.
Nancy ana gay colors, and her fair representatives
appeared In gorgeous array. Rich robes and suits
shOne before the dazzled OF fashions v0taries
and "ducks OF honnets" were perched on their wire
stands like brilliant ornithologica specimens.
como OF the leading modises have not yet returned
from Europe, and as matter Of consequence their
fail stock has not yet arrived The changes in styles
and materials are not Of such sweeping
character as people were led to expect.
Suits still retain their popularity, and BID
Jair 10 become national IN their character
ana utility. Bonnets have undergone change
Tor the better. They are larger and have
higher crowns than their predecessors OF past
seasons. The light summer fabrics which
gyaced the watering Places have given place to
handsome silk suits OF ali hues, and their trimmings
are more suitable Tor the melancholy days" than
Eufies aud bows Of muslin and tarIetan. The most
popular trimming OF the season viii probably be
velvet RIBBON as bands and bordering. 1t has
very striking effect when used IN reCers, sailor
collars and wide CUTS on suit Jackets very plea
stng innovation is the wearing Of shawls in Ill sorts
Of picturesque and faucilul ways as outside wraps
or over suits. They are far pretter ana more dis
n0ue than clOaks which double their price, and
thcy relieve the want Of graceful drapery discern
tbie In short dresses. Cashmere, which is such q
Iavorite France, bids fair become more popular
here than 1t has been, and every lady Of taste VIII
hail its appearance with pleasure. The small black
velvet mantelets which were so much worn last year
viii na tnf no hat nj
IL high crowned, made OF felt and trimmed with
velvet and flowers or feathers. The pancakes"
have disappeared, to the intense delight Of every
one 1t would be impossible to give any ineligible
IDEA OF the myriad shapes OF the fall bonnets and
hats No two Of them are alike. Round hats are
last superseding bonnets, and are now exhibited
on all OCCASIONS, in the evening, for Waiting,
At receptions and upon the promenade. Three
c0rnered toques Of black velvet corded with
thick white satin and ornamented with
weIl-ouried plume Of short black and white
feathers are very becoming. Violet toques turned
up with feathers and mounted with white
Aigrette have also made their appearance. Strings
eu Of aso se In spite e Of al the e
contrary, crinoline holds Its OWN. although OF
course. in a materially reduced form. During the
past year seventyhve inches were the standard
Glze for hoped skirts, but the Indications are
IN favor Of slight increase. Some girls OF the
period discontinued wearing hoop skirts for while,
but the Inconvenience Of the clinging skirt soon
obliged them to return to the skeletons" again.
AZ may be seen from the selections we have made
OF the styles the threatened revolution In dresses
has not taken place. and suits are still the reigning
DRESSES, cLoAKs AND DRESS GOODS
James McCreery & Co.. at the corner Of Broadway
and Eleventh street, exhibited many novelties.
Two elegant dresses were universally admired. One
was dinner dress OF heavy black silk, with panier
cversklrt, trimmed with piping Of green satin and
appearance elegant and tasteful. In the same case
with this dress was an evening dress Of lavender
plated, and edged Win point applique lace The
bottom Of the trail was scol0pe1 and trimmed with
81 waists or a4e is
q the purchasers, and The dress, when completed,
win cost only $3.50.
with three rows OF satin rufiies box plated anu
scOoped, with piping OF satin in the spaces between
she yuiiles, attracted much attention. Over the
panler large rosette and sash OF satin, and the
coat s made full in the skirt, so that there IS 40
much admired was suit OF purple plush, with
marrow futing OF satin az the bottom OF The SKIRT
rune Two Waking sS Of ps WITH vide
yulfe at the bottom, and trimmed with box plating
and black corded SILK, with jacket to MATCH seemed
also to excite much favorable comment Two
dresses oil heavy black silk made with overskirt and
panier. trimmed with three RULES around
sOrape on one S Sese the
rulies were scolioped, and bound and plped
with black satin while the rufles on the other were
straight ana were bound and pped Win goid-c00Sed
satin. In this department Messrs. McUreery a. Co.
have undoubtedly somebody possessing good taste
threatenng weather, visited the warerooms and H.
spected the arllces just opened were loud in their
praises OF the styles exhibited. AT one side was
magnificent evening dress OF white Organdie, rUled
and tucked and puifed-tbe ruiies in fine clusters,
with some half dozen fine tucks edging narrow
puiflng and the entire trlmmlng-rulfies tucKs and
puffs-vandyked around the SKIRT. The Overstirt Is
formed of SIX distinct pieces and together with the
waist and sleeves, pufied ami tucked to match the
skirt. In the same apartment IN which this dress
stood was collection OF very handsome caps OF silk
m ma nm
brOidered or covered with fine lace and trimmed
with silk, satin or velvet, 10 SUIT the purchaser.
country and yet so dressy and comfortable that
the wonder is the ladies OF this city have not had
OF Dlack slk. quilted and wadded so as to serve
instead Of the now common balmoraI. In Europe
they are much In vogue, and as they may be worn
chcap-seling from s25 to $40 each-they Will soon,
NO doubt, become quite fashionable. Some of the
ekirts are figured aud lowered In white silk and
look exceedingly neat and comfortable.
In the cloak department one velvet coat excited
particular admiration. ls Is made as II the fronts
were continued to point and brought around and
across the back and the points fastened OF the oppo
cite shoulders. In the centre Of the back Is COM
picated ornament Of heavy corded silk and PEN
dAnts. The trimming throughout Is OF thread lace
and fringe and silk cord. brief description cannot
pearance OF the garment or ordinary velvet clOaks
made in the prevailing styles and trimmed with gui
pure lace Messrs McCreery ~ Co. have large num-
her. Among the cioaking goods shown Is a material
styled dogskin cloth, which shows beautiful purple
auu piack Snades mixed IN SUCH way as 10 deceive
one % to the real color OF the material Astrachans
and beavers In variety were also opened yesterday
and early Is 1t may seem to be, several purchases
we're made. novelty in this line, and
one which seemed to provide an agreeable sur
prise were sets OF astrachan-cap, collar ana mu-
for children They are made with the head OF the
animal ornamened with glass e. es, and sold for $l2
the set; put q number OF caps were bought sIngy
for boys wear.
In the shawl department there were opened rich
India, broche ana caiEes' hair shawis, which ad.
nlI o. course OF no description, and Tor some Of
which prices were asked thai might astonlsh an
s'army contractors" wife. one ptetty iar camel
halr shawl was on the cOunter marAted $3.50,
and ''neath broche shawl close by marked
1910 Nearly opposite the shawl department. Is tho
satin warer00m, and here were samples OF most elc
gaut coral and aprlCot shades, and other oiors
grave and gay, IN dazzling variety. A new a.-tice
Ia navy blue English waterproof cloth was an
counter close by the satins and much called Tor.
from gay to grave again was but step, and mount
my goods 10 express all the gfa0aiions of grief wer
aruure cloth. fmperIaI aercp