American citizen. [volume] (Canton, Miss.) 1864-1890, 1869-02-27

extraordinary good flavor; but these
of beef are very uncommon. ,
Nhe best and most nutritious beef Is
rom IA large OK, from seven to nine
years old, which has been moderately
worked, and carefully fattened witt on
work for some months before killing.
Many butchers will say that animals
that have never been worked make |
the best beef; but there is the highest |
scientific authority against this opin |
ION. The flavor and nutritive proper
lies of meat are b st developed when |
the animal is in the highest physiolo
gical condition; and this canu0t be
without gentle exercise and an
of light and air.
Ii is only necessary to taste a good
beef5teak once to appreciate that this
is the most savory form in which beef
can be presented to the palate. There
is nothing artificial about a good
steak; all the flavor is in the meat,
and is developed by cooking, and, as
a regular dish, no artificial e tYors, not
even the truffln are desira BILE. But
very +, w know where to cut a steak,
how to cook it, or how to have ii
served.
The steak Usually considered the
best is cut from the loin, the piece
formerly almost universally uset for
roasting, and called the sirloin. This
is the celebrated porter-house steak.
1t has the tenderloin, with its dell
ciout, soft fat, for those who like the
tender meat, and the sirlnin, winch Is
somewhat more highly favored. The
porter house steak is better than the
tenderloin or fillet; the latter is very
| fppHar hut If has MT fnnph flavor
and should be larded, or served with
some made sauce to be a good dish.
The small siriOin steak is almost as
good as the porter house. A magniff-
cent steak, and one very seldom cut
in this country, is from the rib, say
the second-cut ribs, which are usually
counted the best roasting pieces. This
steak, if roperly cookeU, can hardly
be excelled by the best pOrter-houSe.
1t should be an axiom with all good
mar kpters, that no steak can be pro
perly cooked that is less than an inch
and a quarter in thickness, and it is
better an inch and half thick.
To broil a good steak is easy, and at
the same time it is difficult some
times to make cooks appreciate the
importance of minutiae, and to force
them to discard certain old-fdshioned,
mistaken notions. To one familiar
only with the results of culinary
operations, it will seem almost pre-
posterous to say that a good steak
should not be pounded; but it is fact
that implements have been devised
and constructed for that purpose alone
Do not pound a good steak, but Il IT.
ten it q little with the side of the
chopper, trim it properly, prepare il
carefully, and cook it rapidly.
Some epicures regard itas very i'm
portant TO season the steak bt fort
G ,oking, while others do not put any
thing upon it until it is done. This
question, about which there is con
derable difference of opinion, is O
little practical importance. II the
meat be good, and if the cooking bt
properly done, it makes no differ nee
when the steak is sailed and peppered
To prepare the steak, rub i'll salt ant
pepper well with the hand, ant
grease both sides slightly with swee
lard or fresh butter. Use none of thu
strong butter of inferior quality
commonly known as cooking butter
The steak thus prepared should ther
be placed between the bars of well
warmed light gridirou, so that it car
, be easily turned over the fire. Thu
preparation of the fire is the most i'm
/ portant point of all. The very best i
clear fire of bright hickory Goals
The next best is charcoal fire; but
bright fire of ordinary coal will broi
pretty well. 1t is indispensable tina
the fire be hot and clear; and Their
. should be no smoke from dripping
gravy, which can easily be avoidet
] with pepper care. Put the steak owe
t the fire, and turn often until done
I When done, place it upon hot dish
/. sprinkle over it little more salt an
' pepper, spread over il little swee
butter, and let il be served and cate
# Immediately. The difference in flavC
between a we'll cooked steak cate
n Immediately and one served fiv
o minutes after it is done, is enorm0u
a A great deal could be said aboU
e the chemistry of such steak as W
have described, As far az the deve
8 opment of the aromatic principles c
II the meat is concerned, this dish
simply perfect. The brisk heat re- pic
n ly cOagulates the tissue of the exteriC
e and prevents the escape of the juice
e while frequent turning prevents tn
e fibre from being charred. The mes
g should be cooked entirely through
y aud the interior should be of uni
k form red color, never dark and raw
j. When such a steak is cat, if the ra'
d material be of the first quality. III
y dish will be inundated with red grav
e which is the real juice of the mea
% Such dish is not only most SAVIOR
D. and appatising, but it is exceeding
lie digestib!e. II physicians would lear
|, to give meats prepared in this way
j. their patients during convalescenct
t more frequently than they now d
Y recoverieS from exhausting diseas
% would be more rapid and complet
e and if more attention were paid
g the little ,ninutiae of cooking, healt
e and happiness would be greatly pr
70 NOTED.