Herald and tribune. [volume] (Jonesborough, Tenn.) 1869-current, 1869-09-30
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ICorrespondence of the Cincinnati Chronicle.l
GREAT SALT LAKE CITY, u. r.,
-l- -45,sG -Cs September 5. 3
The traveller for this city from the East
reaches Utah Station, or, as the Mormons
call it, Deseret, at precisely II O'clock
noon. The passenger from the West
reaches here sixteen hours later, which
is 4 O'Clock a. m. The fare from Utah,
81; distance. 80 miles; time, hours
We came down from Corrine, thirty miles
west ofhere, and, securing comfortable
seat with the driver, were soon en- route
to ssZion." AS we approached the mouth
of Weber canon, through which the rail
road finds its way into the valley, morn
ing was just breaking. The weather was
unusually propitious for our little jaunt.
The last of the dark gray clouds so gen
orally to be fonnd in these mountain
passes were just disappearing to the north
before stiff breeze. As we reached q
point looking full into the canon, the
train, several miles distant, was just dis
appearing behind heavy curve. The
Using sun oyer the Wasatch peaks cast its
lights in great scollops and ragged points,
which sh owed upon the gray and green
carpeting of the valley like the shifting
phantasies an artist's dream. We will
examine for moment into this strange
defile. The scenery from the moment of
entrance is one of wild, bold grandeur
Approaching this valley from the east it
is seen at It's best The gray Wasatach
- 81,
height of almost 1900 feet, leaving a mar
row, tortuous gap through which the
train finds its way into the basin below
Here is where engineering is displayed
that the world in all its great works new
er excelied. Let commissioners report,
let newspaper edithrs and correspondents
comment, the fact still remains the same.
The mountains OH either side, for the most
part, are covered with broken or pulver-
lied stones. This has in some places so
far decayed rs to encourage vegetation,
which columniates at times in a heavy
mountain growth, not Unusual to the hills
of this country. AS we approach the low
land the scenery grows more bold and
dazzling, the gap grows ma rrower, the
mountains on either side rise higher, and
all earth and grasses disappear. The
scene is desolate one; yet there is a
charm about it which all seem to be inn
pressed with. The qualification Of the
rocks is striking. To the south OF us we
frequently have them abruptly dipped to
the horizon; then will follow. every wa
-riety of inclination. On the other side,
scarcely twenty rods distant, strangely
enough, there is no particle of resemb-
lance. Great peaks tower above US 1lf-
teen hundred feet. and occasionally be-
meath them, as of the settling of an over
loaded foundation, clumps of rocks have
thrust themselves through the earth. Civ
ing the sides wild, ragged appearance.-
While passing along here the platforms
are generally filed with passengers,
mostly men, though we not ainfrequently
see one of the s'strongminded,n while at
every window pale, earnest faces, are
peeping ont. The train.descends rapidly
on a heavy grade of 2 800 feet in seventy
five miles, or 80 feet to the mile. The
s.Devils Slide'' and 'ssDevirsi Gate" are
approached at the highest speed attained.
Ofthe former your readers have doubtless
often heard, 1t consists of two vertical
strata ofrock. ten or fifteen feet asunder,
with softer rock between them. This
has been partially decomposed, and the
heavy rains have cXcavated it. We came
through this same canon not long since
during one of those heavy storms that
sometimes occnr in the mountains. It
came upon us suddenly. The wind was
terrific. and the water dashed down the
mountain sides TO the bed of the restless
Weber, almost rivaling the Niagara, and
putting lesser cataracts to the blush---
Issuing intothe valley half an hour later.
the ONLY Indication we could detect ofa
rain was the rapidly swelling nver run
ming off across the valley TO the lake.
= This brings us back to where we started
from, and we viii now continue regularly
with our description. - ~ F.f- ~,
- At 5o'clock, or half an hour after leay-
ing the railroad station, we had crossed the
narrow valley and were climbing the
steep. rugged mountains, at a uniform
pace at which we had started out. There
Ia one excellent arrangement i'm operating
this line of coaches. They run on regu-
lar time schedule, seldom varying 1--we
minutes I'm the entire trip. Gaining the
second valley, or elevated plain, we came
nt,or n succession of little farms, nestled
down under the protection ofthe hills on
either side. Here we first realize that we
are traversing BrighaIn's deminions.-
The farms are owned, controlled and OPP
Grated by Mormons. The traveller would
not be long i'm discovering this of his own
accord. But small signs of prosperity
can be detected-one-story. leg cabins, oc-
AFR ef2af
unfinished stone, rude fences. poor culti-
vation, and general lock of -frowziness
indigenous to the mountainous abodes OF
the West. The land is by no means Ter
tile Occasionally we find produetive
plat. But where you will find one such
there are ten unfit for any growing piir-
poses. Ghe soil requires not only rriga-
ton. but more than an average amount OF
cultivation. The wild sage british and
similar mountain growth abounds; you
see little else. Mormon farming is GER
tainIy conducted very loosely. At pres
ent the want of agricultural implements
isgreat, and with the present manner OF
Working il d; a wonder to us how SO many
people can gain livelihood at all after
paying their ''tithing~ to Brother Brig
ham, q -
me natural face of the country from
'nls side is dreary. Itssloeks better east
ana sonth of the city. 80
Inc Great SAT- Lake soon breaks into
view, and is not left until within few
miles of the city. where it abruptly termi-
mates, and extends off to the north and
west.