The Louisiana Democrat. [volume] (Alexandria, La.) 1845-1918, 1869-02-24
Where to Gut and How to Broil a
Good Steak.
By PROF. AUSTIN FLINT, ,JE.

There is one great gastronomic advan-
taee which the city possesses over the
country, and that is in the selection of
beef. There is no reason why country
gentleman should not have the best mutton,
lamb, veal. poultry and vegetables; but it
is always difficult to buy good beet, unless
one has an immense amount of material to
choose; and even then, there is nothing
more difficult to select than beef. TIE
meat may present the characteristic mar
bled appearance, the fat may be of good
color and consisteDce, the grain Of the
meat fine to the touch, and yet, from
overdriving and fatigue in coming to the
slaughter.house from improper feeding just
before killing, or for reasons which it is
impossible to explain, the meat may be
tough and favored. A little care and ex-
perience will enable one to avoid serious
mistakes with almost all kinds of meat
and ponltry, but beef is uncertain.
g Butchers are frequently in error in their
appreciation Of the qualities Of beef. In
the first place, the large prize beef is fre-
quently not good. for the reason that the
animal has generally been fattened to an
unusual extent, and with abnormal rupidi-
ty; the meat is consequently defcient in
favor. There is probably nothing better
than young spayed heifer that has been
reared with plenty Of air, and il not too
fat. A carefully reared, free martin Is
sometimes ofextraordipary good favor, but
these varieties of beef are very uncommon.
The best and most nutritious beef is from
a large OK. from seven to nine years old
which has been moderately worked, and
carefully fattened without work for some
months before killing. Many butchers. will
say that animals that have been worked
make the best beef; but there is the highest
scientific authority against this opinion.
The favor aud nutritive properties Of meat
are best developed when the animal is in
the highest physiological condition.; and
this cannot be without gentle exercise and
an abundance of light and air.
1t is only necessary to taste a good beef
steak once to appreciate that this il the
most savory form in which beef can be pre-
sented to the palate. There is nothing ar
tifcial about a good steak; all the flavor is
in the meat, and is developed by cooking;
and, as regular dish, no artificial favors,
not even the truffle are desirable. But very
few know where to cut steak, how to
The steak usually considered the best is
cut from the loin, the piece formerly, al
most universally used for roasting, and
called the sirloin. This is the celebrated
porter-house steak. 1t has the tenderloin
with its delicious, soft fat, for those who
like the tender meat; and surloin, which is
somewhat more highly favored. The por-
ter-house steak is better than the tender
loin or fillet; the latter is very tender, but
it has not much flavor, and should be lar
ded, or served with some made sauce, to be
q good dish. Tho small sirloin steak is
almost as good rs the eporter-house. A
magnificent steak, and one very seldom
cut in THE country, is from the rib say the
second cut ribs which are usually counted
the best roasting pieces. This steak, if
cooked. can hardly be excelled by
the best porter-house. 1t should be an Ak
ION with all good marketers, that no steak
can be properly cooked that is less than ON
inch and a quarter in thickness; and is
better thicker.
10 broit o good steak is easy, and at the
same time it is difficult sometimes to make
cooks appreciate the Importance Of minu-
tiR; and to force them to discard certain
mistaken notious. To one
familiar only with the results of culinary
operationsfit will seem almost preposter-
GUS to say that good steak should not be
pounded; but it is fact that implements
have been devised and construction for that
purpose alone. Do not pound q good
steak, but flatten it little with the side Of
the chopper, trim it properly, prepare it
and cook it rapidly.
Some epicures regard it as very inpor-
tant to season the steak before cooking,
while Others do not put anything upon it
until it is done This question, about
which there is considerable difference OF
opinion, is Of little practical Importance.
If the meat be good, and If the cooking be
done, it makes no difference when
the steak is sailed and peppered.
To prepare the steak, rub in salt and
pepper we'll with the hand, and grease both
sides slightly with sweet lard or fresh. but
ter. Use none of the strong butter Of in
ferior quality, commonly known as cooking
butter. The steak thus prepared should
then be placed between4the bars OF q we'll
warmed light gridiron SO that it can easily
turned over the fire. The preparation Of
the fire is the most important point of nil
The very best is clear fire of bright hick
DRY GOALS. The next best is a charcoal fire
of ordinary coal will broil pretty well. 1t
is indispensable that the fire DO hot and
clear; aud there should be no smoke from
dripping gravy, which can easily be avoid
cd with proper care. Put the stoak over
the fire, and turn o ften until done. When
done, place it upon dish, sprinkle over
it little more salt and pepper. spread
over it little sweet butter, and let it be
served and eaten Immediately. The differ
ence in flavor between well-cooked steak
eaten Immediately and oneiserved Eve min
utes after it is done, is enormous.
A great deal could be said about the
of such steak as we have. just
described. As far as the development OF
the aromatic principles of the meat sCOn-
cerned, this dish is simply perfect. Nhe
brisk heat rapidly coagulates the tissue Of
the exterior, and prevents the escape Oftbe
juices while frequent turning prevents the
fibre from being charred. The meat should
be cooked entirely through; and the -inte- i
rior should be Of uniform red color,
never dark and raw. When such O steak.
is cut, if the raw material be of the first
quality, the dish;will be inundated with red
gravy which is the real juice Of the meat.
Such dish is not only most sayory and
but it is exceedingly digesti6le.
If physicians would learn to give mats
in this way their patients during
mora frennentiv than thew