New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1869-06-30

| seouence became q deslderatum. And the fact that
American manufacturers to-day have the experience ana
facility to make good sewing silk as could be imported
and so greatly rely that branch OF manufacture
ia due 10 its other logical fact that protective duty OF
% per cent was imposed servings In 1912 duty
was imposed on all silks, but 1t too lae the morus
,nuAcqlus failed violent reaction ensued; the ship
wreck was complete. Bat many lessons we're learned.
Manufacturers began to use imported silk for want OF
home cultivated, and the trade assumed Its natural nor
NAL condition.
MORE RECENT OPERATIONS
snce 1870 we hayo been learning Ito manufacture. 1t
has been proved however that America raise as good
raw silk as other countries THE cocooneres OF California
are only experimenting, but they promise sure success
Mr. COwdn reports that OF the finest cocoons at the
Paris Exposition were from the Santa Clara Valley. The
rains which, in Europe, during the feeding season,
destroy the worms do not in California at that
time The worm is Matched about the middle OF May,
reaches maturity about the LIST OF july and before the
first August has formed its ready for market or
reel From tho LIST Of May till the LIST Of october, In Call
forns, the sky clear, the air dry the temperature
eQuabe Chnaman sreceDtly In reply to the question
what he thought of California as silkgrowiDg State.
said he believed IL to be tho best in the world because
the bunderers at the cocOoneres had not been able to
kill half the AS question Of labor, California
with her thousands Of Cinnamon, can compete with the
world She has recently exported from the Santa Bar
bara colony pounds OF eggs valued at $4,000 In gold
The raw silk which we import free OF duty comes from
China and Japan though II first goes to England whence
we purchase at prices fixed by the market there, after
the best has been chosen. The Pacific Railway VIII
remedy that. 1t costs from 81 80 to s1 80 per
pound Some OF the japanese silk is cleaner ana
finer than the Chinese. Cevennes silk is dearer than
either. and Is used in weaving "skmxed" casslmeres'
Considerable quantities of parymanufactured silk are
received by the importers through the CustomHouse
under the guse Of silk and free Of duty the OIL
GERS ignoring conniving at the fraud. The raw Six
purchased by the pound baled in skens OF yell
lowlsh COLOR and each thread Is composed OF from
four TO twelve threads silk thread will ss-
tain the weight thread OF iron the same
slze, The raw silk contains from 20 10 25 per
cent OF gum from the 1t also readily
absOrbs moisture 10 the amount OF 10 ana even 10
per cent All French silks conditioned at the Gov
eminent Assay Office Eleven per cent Is decided as tho
amount Of natural increase by moisture; the SIX Is
thoroughly dried by steam, weighed and the eleven per
cent added the aggregate weight being That at which IL
must be sold whatever the weight 1t may accumulate
afterward. An official tabular statement accompanies
each package.
MANUFACTURING PROCESSES.
The first process at the American mandatory Is 10
sort the raw silk into Sizes great being required In
every stage that the threads be equal In sz as Unequal
ity would produce manufactured thread OF uneven
and manageable twist 1t is then soaked In
soapy water TO dissolve the gum aud render
the thread pabe and elastic. The skelns are
slipped upon Octagonal wicker swift reels, dozen or
moro Of which reyove axis fastened In the legs OF
each table. thread from each reelskein passes up
ward over smooth metal glass rod, 1xed on the lat
era ge Of the table, 10 its revolving bobbn upon which
IL is wound After this process the thread Is guided be-
tween the contiguous edges OF two sharp steel knives 70
sembling scissors which cleanse 10 OF gummy humps ana
cngng waste 10 another bobbn. This process occasions
considerable The nor and more regular threads
are now taken for making Organizes, which are
NtVaat Ia
taken for trams woof The most inferior are used for
the manufacture OF sowing silks Loose and broken ends
are corded like and spun into floss for embroidery
The twisting Throwing" process Is done by passing
the thread silk from upright bottom through the
eye Of craued wire flyer which rapidly spins with the
top OF the bobbn n receiving bobbns revolving above
This thread Is called "singlc and for orgarzines re-
ceiyes from u 10 10 twists TO the inch Orgarznes or
trans are made by twisting together two ~ these
twisted threads an opposite direction 20 the Former
single twist the rate u from ten 20 seventeen t1rns to
the incb threads having previously been wound
parallel upon bobbin. Orgaszines receive tight
twisting 30 induce strength and elasticity swing OF
ta twsts 70 the inch sometimes saves to the
pound OF labor bat oscaaon greater loss
In weaving. Two three threads OF INV silk twisted
loosely she i"oh A. t-sn shutsor
woof In weaving tho woof has little or no strain upon
e. and IL nls up tho warp better by being
soft and bose. Tho twist IN SIX threads
Is set by dHmpening and drying stein-seWing
silk Is made q ten threads tws'od together ard
two Of these latter doubled. Sewing machine sllk IL
trebly twisted Button-hols twist Is tho same with
tighter twist Twists IN tho single threads OF sewing
silks are ten 10 teen the inch; and the doubled eight
TO twelve. The orgauzlnes reeed into skeins OF
one or tw Thousand yards each, being taken TO
make them Of the exact ongth, thaSooDpared with
their weight determines tho quality Of Tie goods 20 be
woven The American OsWing silk machine Is
great Improvement over the oldfashioned machine.
nv tho aid Of n few girls, tho f1Tner at once
doubles, and twists tho silk, and neels 1t into
skens Of equal length and It turns out i25 pounds
n weeR The cost Of throwing SIX into or
ganznos IA y 70 o. per pound great proportion Of that
going 10 labor Trans coat less Altar weighing, tho
the threads 60 to dyor who is charged with tho
weight also with the number OF skeins IA the manu-
facuner knows how muab Of each cSOr should be TO-
turned little fraud happen Up TO the time
the silk goes the dyer there IA ssot three TO nno
per cent fuom cleaning. breaking, 0to II lsses
10 b. IS per cent 1t weight in dyeing by the
boiling off si the worm gum. which b mHde up greatly by
sunohargng with sugar dye In tho dTebouse tho silk
sksns are tied to prevent Cling and boiled for ur
70 hours linen bags by which the hempy col
ons attain a uster GOnOwish colors arc "couneraete'
TO pure white by tho Of little blue dye. This
white dyeing 60 cents pOandess than any other
color OF white cOora the manufacturer receives back
from the dyer 70 for every pound Tie anne
bright eoors cost q 20 pound dye. The night
ounces TO the pound Hlsh c1lorS are cheap,
S SRSS anpc, S0 O, sugar to u Of six
Drabs and states dyed With sumac. at cost OF dol
lar pound. and return IA ounces. Blacks dyed with
nitrate OF iron and cutch and also logwOod BLUSH
shade, especially for VeVets, being desirable. Blue
blacks retnrn plain blacks the full compile
| ment. losses being compensated by surchsrgng Sur
charging can be carried to the extent OF trebng the
bars I'm close steamed ROOM and then usered by pass
ing hot cylinders Sewing silk Is softened by wiring
ing aud tied into skens for sale Trans and organIines
are then reWOund upon bObbns and again rowOund to