The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1869-10-01

we have obtained glimpse of, are beautiful
embroidered en- chaine, with floss silk and
finished with a plated flouncing round the
bottom and pleating round the neck, and
short sleeves all edged with the embroid-
cry.
Plain white foulards and plain white al
pacas are used for opera and concert purposes
and very effectively trimmed with deep black
fringe and velvet bows. On the opening
night of the Parepa Rosa season we noticed
one fthese toiletts, worn with white, hat,
high crowned, turned up coquettishly at
the side and ornamented with plume OF
black feathers. The Sortie eu bal was OF
wnlte srenadine, the lady wore a rich set OF
gold jewellery, heavily fringed, and gold lock-
ct attached to black velvet ribbon.
Evening gloves are fastened with from three
TO six buttons. The price increases from 81 so,
according to the number of buttons used and
the consequent length of the glove. The
price of the best glove two buttons 10 1925,
of the longest glove worn $500.
We advise ladies who have old China Grape
shawls to take great care ofthem, for they are
likely to become very precious. China Grape
dresses, crepe de chine and China Grape tunies
are the rage of the Parisians just now, and
white shawl could be utilized readily so as to
form a vary distinguished addition to an
evening toilette.
THE coRsAGE.
A great change has taken place in the cut
of the corsaee. A short time since it could
not be worn too high; now it is cut much
lower at the back and rounded out SO in the
front in what is known as the heart shape,
that the centre touches the line of the bust.
Chemisettes are not worn with these dresses,
but the married ladies fold half hand
kerchief OF tulle so as to fill upa part of the
space, and all wear lockets, or pendant crosses
attached TO velvet, to chains or to the numer-
Gus strands of fine necklace or long chain.
The latest style Of cOrsage for very 'fulF'
dress is cut round and very low, and has
huted frill of lace placed standing on the in
side edge, so as to form an old-fashioned run.
1t is fashion that will be adopted for its
novelty and eccentricity, by few fashionable
women, but will never become general again.
The low square corsage is the full dress
style for young women. All bodies are cut
short, high on the shoulder and wide in the
bust. Instead of straight round waists, many
of them are cut with slight spring, over
which the skirt is fastened, the waist being
sufficiently defined by the belt and sash.
Sashes cannot be too full. The ends are
short and very wide, the bows made square;
with double loops below. The eHds are van
dyked, fringed or trimmed with lace or ruflles.
SKIRTS.
The immensely long trains are no longer
worn. The longest are not more than yard
aud half, and demi train yard long is
quite sufficient. A very convenient and styl-
ish method of making rich dresses which are
required to serve a double purpose is to make
the underskirt walking length, and the upper
skirt long, so that it can be looped up TO form
a very full panier or let down as a train for
the drawing room. A good deal of silk or
other material is required for a costume of
this description, particularly as the material
is now used for trimming; but then 1t forms
two complete dresses. ..t. l...t.H
The "shot" or changeable silks are so ex-
quiste in tint as to constitute the aesthetic
element in material. The fine shades blend
into hue so delicate, yet so perfect, that
there is no name for it, and only lace or lovely
fringe made Of two colors can add an attrac-
ton to it.
There is no change in the arrangement of
ordinary skirts. They are still gored perfectly
plain in front, partially gored and laid in fiat
pleats on the sides and punched in large
gathers at the back.
'it SLEEVES.
These are to be strictly coat shaped, small
at the wrist and rounded up high on the
shoulder; the broad mousquetare cuff is
often added to the wrist or simulated by a
trimming of silk or velvet. -
More dressy sleeves are puffed, some to the
elbow, some to the wrist, the puffs high and
not unfrequently ornamented with vandykes,
the points turned up instead of down.
1t is fashionable now to ruffle sleeves at the
elbow as well as at the top and wrist, but we
do not consider it a graceful or becoming
method; it gives a sharp outline to the bend
of the arm, and makes the upper part of the
arm, which is rarely as full as it ought to be,
look thinner by comparison.
The full dress sleeves, worn with very low
neck dresses, are mere straps, with a little
quilting of the material or ruffle of lace add
ed, but those ladies who object to this expo
sure, and still want something more dressy
than the long coat and puffed sleeve, adopt
the 'antique," with ruffles of lace or the ma
terial plain or vandyked. Flowing sleeves,
"angeP' sleeves and the like, have disappear
ed entirely. Not a few of the large, old
fashioned flowing sleeves, have been put to-
gether to make paniers of. -.a-
Elt BREAKFAST JACKETS.
Charming little sailor jackets have made
their appearance for cool morning wear, in
marine blue cloth. trimmed with narrow folds
of black satin and gilt braid. Some are orna-
mented with an embroidery executed with
gilt braid, interviewer with black silk, and be-
ing more elaborate are of course more ex-
pensive.
The sailor jackets proper are short on the
back, SO as to show full silk sash, have coat
row across the back, but forming deep points
on the shoulder. This last of course is the
distinguishing feature. There are other jack
| cts made of scarlet, cashmere or merino,
| which form a sort of loose basque, the skirt
part cut out in short, square lappels, and the
waist confined by belt to which the usual
| ornamental bow is attached. The sailor col
lar is simulated on these by the trimming,
which consists of round black cords of silk
DlDinuS. stitched uDOn a white adpq-
COLLARS AND CUFFS.
The fashionably worn linen collars partcu-
larly abroad, are straight across the back, with
a narrow Valenciennes lace, which stands up
| above the edge of the outside garment and is
continued round the moderately deep points,
which constitute the collar in front. These
points are always folded over a cravat, and in
Paris the collar is not sold without its little
silk cravat. The cuffs are rounded in trife
and edged on the top with narrow Valen-
cieHnes lace. ....s.. .# ....
The broad fluted frills, which have obtained
a common sort of vogue recently, are not only
very bad style, but have no foundation in
fashion. .....l..cI .3Fl i.r-. l-I
Linen is less worn than formerly. Sets are
row made of an application of fine needle
| work to linen cambric, edged with pretty, real
| Valencennes.
Instead of buying real lace collars, which
| are very expensive, and look miserably after
one or two washings, many ladies make much
neater ones by taking a strip OF beading in
sertion, and edging it ON one or both sides,
with real Cluny thread or Valenciennes lace
| through the insertion narrow velvet is run,
| which looks like beading, hence the name OF
| beading insertion. An average OF fifty cents
each will make very pretty little collars in
| this way, of real lace, which is so much nicer
TO wear than an imitation in cotton, be it ever
| so perfect. ...-.... -.. ....
Bonnets enter so little into ones calcula-
| tions about attire nowadays, that had en-
tirely forgotten them, notwithstanding the
| opening of new fall styles is made the occa-
| sion of so much glorification. -a. N
or new facts there are really none to give :
there is no change at present, except that the
Fanchon mas almost entirely disappeared, and
| the little poufs, round and triangular, designs
are perked up as high as possible, and the Of
feet heightened by every art which trimming
can supply. Velvet and lace, with aigrettes
and short curled feathers, are the materials,
and most deity are they arranged to produce
a charming effect
| The lace bridals are retained, but one end is
much longer than the other, brought under
the chin and carried by on the side, where
| they are fastened with an ornament.
| High crowned hats in felt or velvet are the