New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1869-07-24
HOME CORRESPONDENCE.
CAPE CoD-HENRY d. THoREAU.

PROYINCETOWN, Mass, July lJ.--ln one OF Jn6
admirable letters of the late N p. Willis written about
years ago, he speaks Of the Venetian aspect Of this
town. Being built upon loose sand, with artificial gar
dens in the center Of each Of which stands house it
minded him OF tho palaces Of Venice. in streets OF
water. But though the poetry Of travel could not posi-
bly, the place with the charms Of that city Of the
sea in the Of the Adratc PrOvncetown is not do
void OF certain beauty which prepared to appre
ciate when here last week When landed the
shining brghtyupOn the waters, causing them
TO sparkle like many diamonds; the harbOr filled
with shipping, and quite large number Of vessels were
standing out TO Before Long Point, at the
the harbOr with its cluster Of white houses
principally inhabited by fishermen. little to the right
the bay, the Highlands Of Truro, crowned
with the lighthouse and windmill As the eye swept up
the Cape the churches in the south part of that town.
standing alone Oh those barren heaths were plainly vs
bic ana several villages lying low upon the shore. AS
my destination was Highland Light in Truro and was
in haste to arrive there, did not tarry long at
Provincetown. drove briskig down the street,
past the houses with their back yards running to the
waters edge, and the bOwsprts of the vessels hanging
them past the wndmills, which, in the morning
breeze. pumping up water for the salt works past
the sanddrfs white snow, and the fish Cakes and the
plank sidewalk full of people going to their work On
our way we passed tho hamlet Of East Harbor now near
y deserted but inhabited by of the best fi
lies IN Truro AS rode along noticed particularly
plantation Of small pines several acres in extent which
were raised from the seed Up aud down tho Cape, in
quite of the towns tracts Of desert lana have
been sown IN this manner with complete success.
1t still early in the morning perhaps not than
9o'cloek when drove up smalls Hotel This house
situated in the immediate vicinity of Highland Light
and has long been favorte place OF resort have been
here in Winter when the storm ragged and everything
drear without But in the cheerful parors, looking to-
ward Proyneetown, with good fire in the CRATE and
plenty Of books il was always pleasant, have boon
here many times in Summer. Then it Is especially de.
hghtal visit these highlands The skies clear the
sea breeze refreshing, and nature Grand-l wonder
why t that have not found ont the rare beauty oil
thIs SPOT Quito number Of distinguished men have
visited smas and tarrled for longer shorter time
Some years since. John Ross Dix an English author OF
considerable note, spent several weeks here. and de-
cared himself highly pleased with the peculiar scenery
OF this part the Cape Theodore Parker came down
once or his death recruit his wasted en-
crces and draw fresh inspiration from nature Others
unyu whom may he mentioned p Willis, have stopped
at this happened TO be in Truro when he passed
through The town, aud well remember the spicy letters
he wrote the time for The Home Journal Here also
Fpent many happy with the eccentric Henry D.
Thoreau before his remarkable works had gained him
such a reputation. 1t in the Summer OF 1850 when
first saw this distinguished Naturalist. met him acct
dcutaIy rather found myself In his company one DAY
at PrOymvetown. was standing on the wharf waiting
take tie stage for Truro Ile driver, shhl cOlSe
quentia Of man, who had recently come upon the
route, was busting around, slowing away the baggage
aud helping the ladies aud babies Most OF the pas
tops the horses were TesYe the driver was about to
mount bis box and take the reas Wien person seca
alongside Of him. lie was man OF snort stature cOu
pactly built and ford complexion. His eyes were
berokened frnuess and strength OF character AS ne
took his seat sauted him. and SO dd the 3hsr passed.
gers II whom there were several remarked casually
upon the weather and the novelty Of the scenery did
not tie know that was speaking 20 one whose Opin
ions, conversation, studies work and course OF me- as
Mr.. Emerson Gays "made him searching Judge OF
men" Had known this should not nave entered INTO
conversation; should have sat stll ana studied hin
But I was Young. / knew nothing Of Walden Pond or
the manner OF life he had been leading sun less dld
gathering the materials for one Of the interesting
aud instructive works / read. presume he
fcf If made NJ no Inference kept up conversation
with him. and long he charmed and delighted me as
found out Who this interesting person He told
satahe love of nature. We took walks tOgether-we
MISUNDERSTANDING around the little hamlet on the
tachcd. where the keeper lived and sometimes miles ,
steep bank and the Clay Pounds on the beach
above the dashng waves sit for hours to gaze on the
vast expasse Of ocean, and the ships and repass
To these does mind revert as again revisit
II with deep feeling that the old lighthouse keeper
speaks of his walks, his conversation, his pure
ana a 1b smy y at meals Most Of the time When
his excursions he spent IN hs own room Fe the
highly priced. He always found something 70 tax about
In his walks around the lighthouse simple objects sGeh
afforded him opportunity 70 make the most interesting
ard suggestive remarks There certain indehnable
ahnities that certain other beings We can
moi hcp IT nor can they. We mold and fashion them
we think with the author of Walden in his in
tereOuse with had not then read the great novel
OF GOcthe-the WahluerWdHdSchdften or Elective Atln
ties. But know something OF these Intimate relations
The natural laws which govern mind may he ma
deu IN this regard Yet noticed and felt their effect on
me while with Mr.. Thoreau. HIS conversation was what
the inclination Of my soul aud the want Oi my heaFI de
manded
DAY WITH THOREAU-POND YILLAGE-WALK
TO THE HIGHLANDs-ANCIENr GRAVEYARD
GREAT HoLLow-ACRoss THE CAPE
LIGHTHOUSE, ETC.
HIGHLAND LIGHT, TRURO, Mass, July o.
recent perusa Of Thoreaus Cape Cod awakened
my mind many agreeable "reminiscences Of this remark
able man. in l849 the date OF his first visit
Truro that the Provnoetown stage down day
in this thcway place. In the Autumn Of the
year ThOreau spent several days at Highland Light,
but did not him. The next Summer he came again
without companion, and was still here had the
pleasure Of meeting him often while he remained. Dur
ing the time invited him to spend day with me- and
he consented 10 do was then occupying rooms In
Parsonage, it stn called, antique, low, broad
house. with irregular windows, such he describes,
situated in Pond Village This property had once been
owned by the Rev Judge Damon an old Arminan min.
ister who settled the parish about forty years,
and whose remains lie in the neglected graveyard
looking the settlement From this place started
Of those long, agreeable rambles that the author Of
''Wadon, or Life In the Woods" enjoyed 30 well We
passed out the gate Of the Parsonage grounds eav
ing the little church. the befry Of which Mr. Thoreau
had previously mistaken for a summerhouse the left
and gradually ascending the hill TO cultivated
field Here / stumbled upon Indian arrowhead, and
looking about discovered several Two Of them
were quartz small and perfectly pointed The others
were pOrphyry and not well made kept those ar
ryws for years afterward mementOes OF the day. and
han never forget the interesting conversation in connec
oyghe ad