The Cecil Whig. [volume] (Elkton, Md.) 1841-current, 1869-06-19

| pally modern-the Old town having been
Tin 1920 nearly destroyed by fire. The
streets are wide, and bordercd in many
places with alders and birches. All the
houses are constructed of stone-the Gov
eminent buildings quite imposing from their
massiveness, and the private dwellings
square and low. Here too, as further west
flowers doomed in the deep-set windows,
and the bright tints of pinls, and gerani-
ums relieved the gray monotony of the
streets. The boast Of Abo is its vast old
cathedral, whose huge tower rises over the
low roofs, majestic as some granite cliff
| above plain. 1t is still Lutheran, and
dates from an early day-Abo having been
the first place where Christianity was first
preached to the Firms. Standing apart, in
solitary grandeur, it is encircled by a tree
bordered lawn, i'll whose fresh green grass
many small wild flowers were growing, con-
spicuous among them the slender blue
bells of Scotland. Near by, in little park,
was handsome monumental statue in
bronze of professor in the University Of
Abo, who revived the study and employ
ment of the Finish language, which was
fast falling into disuse, and did much to
inspire the people with love for their ma
| tive tongue, peculiar in its construction,
but with a full and expressive vocabulary.
He SO far succeeded in his efforts that in
1865, to please the Firms, the Car issued
decree to the effect that thenceforth no
one should hold office in Finland who
could not read and speak Finnish. Ele-
gance of person and attire were not want
ing here. We met several delicately pretty
women, and two boys, attended by a SER
want; fine little fellows, dressed in full
trousers and jackets and black velvet, with
crimson sashes, and lace frills at the neck
and wrists. Passing a small public garden,
the sound of violin was heard from hall
at its further side; and, leaving the dros-
kies, we walked across and entered, in re-
Spouse to the polite invitations of the mas
ter of the ceremonies. Some twenty couple
were upon the floor dancing kind of polka,
while seated around the room were the
mothers, complacently looking on. The
air was damp and cold. l was barely COM
Portable in thick dress and heavy shawl;
but these Finnish maidens were robed in
white muslin and chintzes, and had the
doors wide open to admit the fresh breeze
from the sea. 1t was broad daylight, and
between the dances their partners led them
Sravely back to their seats. Everything
was cheerful, quiet, decorous; in fact, it
was model ball, and as we returned to the
steamer saw how life was made pleasant
even in remote and chilly Abo.
Skirting next day the rugged, pine-clad
coast, at six in the evening we passed the
Fortress of Sveaborg, with its rock-hewn
batteries, and anchored at Helsingfors,
capital of Finland, and present seat of it's
university. Though not much larger than
Abo, Helsingfors is 4 handsomer, buster
town; yet its modern Russian churches,
with their gay domes, cannot vie in interest
with the solemn old cathedral. The coun-
try about it is the same swamp, and lake,
and rock; and one involuntarlly asks, on
beholding it, what supports the inhabi-
tants, and why towns and universities should
exist in SO forlorn a region. Wyborg, an
other fortified town, was the only remain
ing point touched by the steamer ON the
voyage; and at three o'clock on the after
noon of the second day after leaving Hell
singfors the sameness of the scene was re-
lieved by the towering masts and granite
structures of the great naval station of
Cronstadt, the pride of Russia Passing
these, under cold, gray sky, with wild
wind blowing from the north, we made
straight for the dead level shore beyond-a
shore to which even the poor picturesque
ness of Finland is denied, and where a few
pale birches and sickly pines are all that
unaided nature can coax from the wet and
barren soil. Yet out of this bleak morass
there began to rise spires, and domes, and
columns, shining in the shifting light; and
as we advanced the wonder grew. Long
rows of stately houses lifted themselves to
view, crowded streets opened on every
hand; and, while we were yet bew1ldered
with this mingled poverty and splendor,
the steamer rounded into her dock on the
Neva, and amid a noisy ramble of droskies
and drivers and porters, some clad i'll sheep
skins and all i'll loose, long, and shabby
wrappings, we gained a carriage, and were
driven at a furious pace through the strange
streets to the 50 Hotel de Russie," stones
throw from the Neuski Prospect on one
hand and the Winter Palace of the Cars
on the other.