The New York herald., 1869-04-25
PARIS FASHIONS.

Lions Of the HOur-The Latesf-ImperiaI Re-
cepti0ns-Ladies' ToiIets-The Renaissance,
Louis XIV. and La Trianon styIes-sashes
Still the RaSe-Prevailing C0lors-Flowers-
A Brilliant Fete-Notre Dame.
PARIS, April o, 1869.
There is always man Of the day in French circles,
Just as there Is girl, man, child or baby OF the
period IN every weekly newspaper. We have had
M. de Rangabe, M. Emile Olivier and Sardou i'm
these latter days; the Nabob Of Bengal eclpsed all
three for about week, and now we have the min
lister Of King Leopold H.. M. Frere Orbau, who has
taken the place OF the nabob. No one knows what
the diplomatist from Belgium mas come for; every
one knows he Is remarkable man OF about sixty that
his father was gaekeeper or concierge at the palace
Of the University, that he was born at Lege, that
he Is as great q politician In Belgium NJ. de Bis
marck at Berlin; has fne high intelligent forehead,
and has risen from the humble station he was born
IN to be c0nsummate statesman, combining deep
learning with an elegant exterior. He Is an officer
of the Legion OF Honor, and enjoys the reputation
OF being not only terribly puzzng lawyer but
great dnancier. 1t Is not unlikely that before this
record OF Partisan sensations reaches the HERALD
some other lion Will have started up. Thus 1t Is
chronicers OF the tastes OF times have to sketch
rapidly, and for my own part never can see new
men standing In the avenues OF high life without
having TO resist the temptation to the gendarme
and say "Move on move on gentlemen, you are
stopping up the foOtpath." cannot complain or che
nabob OF the atroclous spring weather which has
caused him to depart. He has gone, carrying under
his arm to him quite novel acquisitOn-an umbrella.
He has left good deal behind, as the Indians always
do; native so formed for creeping eXotics at home
could not travel without some of the indigenous
productions; but he has also left large roll OF
parchment 10 the tailor who lined his linen trousers
fur ne
nOminates the tailor special purveyor to his High.
ness. We all had 1t impressed on our minds that
this parsonage entitled to salute OF forty guns
in every city he entered. The which this intel
ligence from st. James palace first spread in my
mind has abated since my fancy has depicted him
in the act OF counting the forty reports, standing up
under his new umbrella with his gold trimmed spec
tacles on and all the nankeen turned inside out,
with the sable Innings outside in.
But such images as these are not the only things
to be reported in elevated circles. The Empress has
commenced her intimate Monday receptions. There
to be seven Of them and as there are seven
coors IN the rainbow our ertrauagantes have each
resolved to wear every color in turn. To come out
In orange or yellow would have been the climax OF
horror few seasons ago; 1t is all the style now.
The wedding Of Mile. Juren de la Graviere Is an
other incident OF importance at the Tuileries. She
marries M. Massias, an ad.de-camp OF Admiral de
francs from the Empress. The BRIDES father left
for TOulon the day before yesterday; but Eugene,
ever eve fiya with Lovers Obtained Gorge for
Tuleries last evening. The trousseau will come
under my inspection this nght-tOo late for the mail
Unfortunately; but details on the wedding, which
VIII take place on the llth inst, shall accompany it
IN my next IT. gfsHs's rn:~E a. -!
The renaissance or sixteenth century styles are
becoming more clearly defined at court than in any
other quarter, the theatre excepted where the ce-
lebrities of the dentmOnde always vie with fash
ions set IN the highest regions Skirts are being
loOped on one side only, under long almspOuches
and chatelanes, the slashed sleeves and vaiois roll
with white lawn coming out between, diamond shape
are the principal features OF this peri 3D. not forget
ting M the val valois S hat and cured feather tn It.,
modified by the Trianon styles. The sashes behind
are assuming all the Importance from the fact
that It was attempted to dethrone them from their
camels hump. 1t IS novelty now 10 have TWO ends
behind, long the other shorter, and immediately
without anticipating that costumes quite en- suite
Will be done away with, 1t Is noticeable that black
corded silk Watteaux Versailles and Camargos will
be worn over plain founced pettIcoats whether
muslin. foulard, silk or lawn The prettiest mantes
are at this moment black cashmere, cut with bees'
whole either ruched, and these ruches bordered
with black satin, or trimmed with black lace or
fringe. Cashmere over tunics, coat and basques in
one will be worn immensely in all the tender gamut
OF shade and color over cO0red silk nounced under
is the striped Algerian chalys, which viii be made
into paners over plain under pettcoats Of the color
Of the satin stripe. The idea most In vogue regard
Ing shades now ls mauve over straw or yellow,
blue shot with silver gray, and blue bordered with
light salmon. Sleeves either preferred pured from
from the elbow, falling over the arm The latter IL
very snowy II not adapted by cteue; but ladies'
are entreated to resOlutely take to the becoming
ichu and pun II they have ever heard themselves
called scraggy by friend. These square bOdices
are very % unbecoming u the anatomy Of womanhood
tnts. do not say all, but one or other OF them II
pink In It's freshness and white In Its transpar-
rendered ideal bv proper art In drapery and conceal
what no one likes to look at without necessity.
The following are the flowers have admired on
spring fanchons-The rose-colored anemone. with
black heart; the yellow water lily; the wall flower
bouquet for diadem and blue feather aigrette; the
flaming poppy and black aigrette; the lily OF the
valley agrette alone and green leaf diadem; the
wnite lilac sranch and violet pansy. recommend
white lace hat with a white camea and aigrette OF
pink heath OF course for a bruno.
The most brilliant ball given In Paris since Easter
was at the Ministere OF Finances by M. Magne.
Nine. Magne was In white satin, with diamond neck
lace and ornaments. and Parma vioets mixed with
daughter of Baron Haussmann who is gifted with
golden hair, was In white covered with white tulle
ruche, white roses in her hair ana In plats which
Nine. Alfred Magne was in white tulle, with bows
and looping OF cherry satin, and purple roses, with
Paul Fevai and Edmond About were good deal
together at the bufYet.
Mile. Marie Magne was in pink tulle with clusters
Of lilies Of the valley looping up her panier in her
halr, ana falling about In long fringe round her
Many bellies had Just cut fresh flowers from their
hothouse plants and the dancing salon was per-
fumed with their scent. This Is the loveiiest OF
adornments.
Madame Ducas was in white tulle with green
tunlc Of pOult, frnged with pansies long stems,
varying In shade from the yellow to dark vioet.
Princess julie B0naparte was In striped Oren-
tai material and long antique tunic worked with
gold. On her forehead a bandeau Of diamonds.
One OF the most artistic celebrations OF this week
has been Adolphe Adams Grand Mass for the benefit
Of musicians. 1t was performed at Notre Dame by
400 instrumentalsts and the powerful organ OF the
Metropolitan Cathedral. While standing up in the
organ loft looked down on the antique nave, IN
which all the musical literary and artistic talent OF
Paris had crowded In answer TO the invitation OF
poor musicians. The wives Of some OF the most
eminent men In France were led through the crowded
ranks by members OF the association each lady hold
ing velvet pouch in hand. In which louis
and fell in br0tterly emulation from the
wealthlest to the poorest Of the audience.
The loveliest slken trains swept by the
lowiest seats. and the same smile OF thanks
answered every Offering. The sun streamed In from
thlrty-seyen windows Of stained glass the side
chapes which surround the principal nave ana
their rainbow tints fell on the large stone. pillars