The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1869-09-28

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color alternating with black Sultan, prune,
| capucine, and oasis-green are shown. Shot
| silks, with narrow satin stripes in contrasting
colors, will make elegant dinner dresses for
| young ladies. Sash ribbons in broader stripes
| are in the appropriate colors for each dress.
| There is mauve with narrow satin stripe, pearl
| with cerse blue with maroon. sultan with black,
| green with rose-pink, capucine with black.
| There is also satin striped falle vioine, blue,
| stone-gTey, and brown, for more elderly ladies.
| Another novelty is satin with chntz stripes on
| blue, grey, brown, or purple grounds The
| most elegant importations trained dinner
dresses Of gros grain, with velvet borders of the
| same color woven in the materials The border
| is three-siXteenths of n yard wide, and edged
| with soft feathery fringe. Velvet sash ribbons
| the width of the border should be worn with
| these dresses. Ruby, green, bright blue, and
| black are the colors shown.
| Ladies' Cloth.
Ladies' cloth of excellent quality, soft and
light yet warm, and of firm texture, is imported
| for winter suits. Navy blue and maroon are the
| coors most frequently sold; bright claret is adj
| mired for very young ladies' prune-color, two
| rich shades of green, chesnut-brown; and
| lighter blue than the marine shade are also de-
| sirabe. The best style for making cloth suits is
| n long redingOte and round skirt, trimmed with
flat bands and revers of velvet or gros grain. 1t
| is well always to select cloth of dark quiet
| shade that will harmonize with other colors in
| order that the redngote may serve as a wrap
| ping for number of dresses.
Pleasing novelties in repellaut cloths promise
| something OF variety III the waterproof wraps
| and suits so indispensable in our climate.
| American waterproof cloth is shown in half
inch stripes of brown with black, q pretty black
and white plaid, and light brown with cross
bars of a darker shade. The most serviceable
domestic waterproof is a fine tweed, in beauti-
ful shades of grey, brown, and black, mixed
with gold. 1t is economy to buy this article as
| il does not fade or become rough under the
hardest usage. English waterproof is the finest
repelant cloth made; it is, however, very expen-
sive. 1t is shown in black mixed with maroon
white, or gold. Six yards is plain suit pattern
three and half yards for cloak. A short
gored skirt and jockey basque-the front fitted
by dart, the back with side-bodies, and n broad
hollow plat below the BELTS the design for II
waterproof suit. A pelerine cape may be added
but hounce and upper skirt make it too heavy
for comfort The trimming is Hercules braid,
or else alpaca braid edged with notched cloth of
bright color.
Pique cloth is new for chldren's wraps and
for house jackets. 1t is a light loosely woven
cloth, with raised tiny dots and diamonds like
plque hgures. Cerise, dark blue and white are
the colors. Pnked edges or bindings of bias
velvet are the appropriate trimmings. Smooth
fine cloths of bright scarlet and navy blue are
made into the popular sailor Iaaiet with deeply
pointed collar, trimmed wi o-inch band of
pinked white cloth, on whiou Is % narrower band
OF the cloth of the jacket. White corduroy like
ribbed yelveteen is handsome for breakfast
sacques. Large buttons in front looped with
silk cord are sufficient trimming Carotta cloth
of deep lustreess black, has thick closely cured
threads like Krimmer This is intended for
cloaks worn in fresh mourning.
A gorgeous cloth for burnouses and Meter
nlch circulars for evening wear has stripes of
scarlet plush, alternating with gold and black
stripe OF intricate Oriental pattern. Cable cord
and tassels of scarlet and gold should be used
for trimming. Opera cloth in narrow stripes of
white velvet with color-cerise blue, green,
or bluffs much admired. A pure white cloth
for trousseau cloak is woven of fine square
braids and basket check and plush, in imitation
OF seal skin and of the wavy Russian lambskin.
TartnHs.
The word tartan does not refer to any particu-
lar fabric, but to the various combinations of
colors and patterns adopted rs a distinguishing
mark by the different Highland clans The
colors and lines of many of the original tartnns
are copied faithfully in modern serges and pop
Inns. Ladies who wear plaid garments should
know what tartan they have assumed-hence we
give the colors of those most worn at present
OF the blue and green tartans now so fashion
able, the Sutherland or Forty-second is the
favorite. 1t is composed entirely of blue and
green; and in the true tartan every line of the
plaid is repeated, whether the blocks are large
or small. This tartan is the basis of MANY
Others; for eXample-the Sutherland plaid with
white cross-bars forms the Campbell tartan; with
yellow bars the Gordon; with red the Mcdonald:
with both red and yellow the Farquharson: with
red and white the Mckenzie. These are the
plaids most worn for street suits. Among the
gay paids chosen for shawls and burnouses the
Stuart is the favOTite. II has large scarlet blocks
with crossing lines of yellow white black aud
blue The Mlntosh is similar tartan with
more yellow in it. The MFarlaue has a red
ground barred with green, white, and blue. The
Victoria plaid, named in compliment to the
Queen, who prefers it to any other, is the
original dress tartan of the Stuart clan with
white ground instead of red. This bright plaid
like the scarlet and black Rob Roy, is popular
for shawls and for children's clothing. French
poplins in tartan colors are sold for children's
best dresses. For plaid suits we prefer belted
mantles. but short jockey basQues with n scarf
in favor. There should be two skirts, the lower
one trimmed with a bias volante five inches
wide, Vandyked on each edge, and bound with
alpaca braid; the upper skirt is merely van
dyked Very narrow satin galloons in tartan
colors are sold for trimming self-colored
dresses.
Varieties.
A pretty frill called Fraise is worn around
the neck On band Of Swiss muslin an inch
wide and three-quarters long, Vaenciennes edg-
ING is gathered and sewed back and forth across
the band forming pretty shell-like curves Half
inch Nalenciennes will answer The Marie
Stuart frill Is formed of two straight strips of
muslin edged with lace. These are pleated one
within the other attached TO a tape and worn
standing around the neck Unbeached linen
sets, Ornamented with English open-worked
embroidery, are imported to be worn with plain
black silk dresses and travelling costumes
Black velvet and tartan sashes are most in
favor. They are made with many superposed
loops and very short ends. The belt should
tasten behind beneath the bow. a metallic belt
called the Empress, finished in Jet slvered gilt
and PLAID patterns, and worn with slides to
match, is convenient and pretty with morning
wrappers. 1t is also useful as a foundation for
silk belts. Morocco belts with steel buckles are
worn with travelling dresses. Large Jet buckles