Evening star., 1869-09-24

arranged as an Arao." They can oe bought
with fnnge and tassels complete, fro n ten TO
fifteen dollars. A very elegant Imported suit
Just received, Is composed Of silk and ve,vet,
the color Of chocolate in the cake. The lower
skirt has a deep band OF velvet round the bot
tom, headed with q double rucning OF silk.
pinked out. Above this band both skirts are of
silk, the upper one arranged in full pdalsr,
with side wings, one round the other pointed.
These are bordered with rich Chenille fringe.
There is painter bow OF silk and velvet, with
very wide ends, and q heart shaped bodice.
win coat sleeves OF velvet ornameptsd with
broad folds of silk, forming cuffs, andeoliaretts
crocnet buttons OF an exact shade 70 match.
The price of this suit was S375.
For durable country wear advise the plain
suits OF tweed wInsey, or waterproof cloth,
with or without the upper skirt, then a basque
cut PLAIN and confined by a belt only no sash.
Very neat suits are made iu this way, and
trimmed inexpensively with several rows OF
cules." Braid-woved pipines Of black silk will
do as well, but cost more; and il must be re-
merabered that a mum Der OF rows are req uired
TO give good effect. Seven is not too many
upon the skift, i've upon the basque, and three
upon the sleeves and neck, the latter outlining
the shape OF the sailor collar or collaretts; but
nve upon the SKIRT will do, three upon the
basque, and two upon the sleeves. OF course
the braid must be bought oy the piece and n il
cannot be obtained essily, good alpaca braid
may be used as a substitute. The basque TO
such suit may be made very warm by lining
1t with coarse flannel.
CLoAKs AND sHAwLs.
i have not space TO say much on the subject
OF the new cioaks, which are not yet on exhi-
btion, but Of which havs obtained some
private glimpses. All are of the cost or paletot
shape, and are either half or tie ht- -fitting.
Some are open on the back or rounded upon
the side, and one formed a skeleton over-dress
OF black velvet snd beautiful little coat with
lappels. which lay cnarmingly over the panier
Of the short skirt. This was trimmed with
lace, satin pipings and fringe and was consid-
arc oh Of -.l.
cloaks are trimmed with heavy black corded
silk, put on in folds, facings, narrow uIllings
and plpingsi but some are trimmed with lace,
headed with q rich crochet gimp, which looks
like heavy emoroidery. The velvet cloth aud
beaver cloaks are trimmed with twisted fringe,
headed with narrow SATIN fields or silk DID ngs,
or with the crochet embroidery. the cloth
cloaks are designed in coats, paletots, and
hasques, neatly and admirably cut into the
figure, and always have broad cuffs, real or
simulated, and often rolling collars and reyers
and are now exceedingly well suited to their
purpose. They are long, ample, fitted with
moods, which are lined with silk and have an
elastic run through so that they can be drawn
comfortably and protecuyely over the head.
They are also finished in quite q new style,
with half capes, which cover the unsightly
armholes, and render them graceful as well
as thoroughly convenient
EVENING DRESSES.
White Swiss muslin Is to be revived this
founces, "a good deal OF V Valencienne lace, puffed
sleeves, with lace ruffles and ribbon or black
velvet bows; black velvet and pink roses in
the powdered hair. Over-dresses OF white
Swiss or India muslin will also be fashionable,
cut with round panier in the back, the sides
rounded over an apron 'front.' and edged with
wide Nalenciennee lace. The ribbon TRIM
ming will match the silk dress worn under.
meath, and which should be perfectly plain
The new evening dresses Of white tarlton
which we have obtained glimpse OF are beau
ufully embroidered cAdine with floss silk
and finished with a plated fiouncing round
ana All S fSarS .se es Sss and
Plain white foulards and plain white alpaca.
very effectively trimmed with deep black
fringe and black velvet bows. On the Opening
night Of the Parepa- Rosa season we noticed
one OF these toilettes, worn with q W hire hat
nlgn crowned, turned mp coquettishly at the
SIDE, and ornamentsd with plume Of black
feathers. The sOrtie du bal was OF white greu.
adlne. The LADY wore rich set Of gold Jew-
eiry, heavily fringed, and a gold iockef at
tacned 10 black velvet ribbon. Evening
gloves are fastened with from three TO six
buttons The price increases from - so. ac-
cording TO the number of buttons used and
consequent length Of the glove. The price OF
the best gloves 1.-TWO buttonsD is - 25; of the
longest glove worn,S3.50. We adj wise ladies who
OF Oio emma so Grape snaws 70 take great
very precious. China Grape dresses. creme de
Chine, and China Grape tunics are the rage of
the farisians Just now, and white shawl
could be utilized readily so as TO form a yery
addition TO an evening toilette
THE CoRsAGR.
A great change has taken place In the cut of
the corsage. short time since IL could not be
worn too high; now 1t Is Gu. much lower at the
back and rounded out SO in front in what is
known as the heart" shape, that the centre
not worn with these dresses, but some married
ladies told half handkerchief OF tulle, so as to
NIL up part OF the space; and all wear lockets,
or pendant crosses, attached to velvet, TO
cnalns, or 70 the numerous strands of fine
necklace or long chain. The latest style of cor
sage, for very "full" dress, is cut round and
very low, and has d uted frill OF lace stand
ing on the inside edge, so as TO form an old
fashioned run. 1t Is q fashion that will be
adopted, Tor It's novelty and eccentricity, by a
lew fashionable women, but will neyer be-
come general again. The low, square corsage
is the full dress style fer young women All
bodies are cut short, high on the shoulder and
wide in the bust. Instead Of straight, round
waists, many OF them are cut with a slight
spring, over which the skirt is fastened, the
waist being sufficiently defined by the belt and
sash. Sashes cannot be too full. The ends are
short and very wide; the bows made So uare
with double loops below. The ends are Van
D yKeo, irlnged or trimmed with lace or ruffies.
SKIRT.
The immensely long trains are ne longer
worn. The longest are not more than a yard
md half, and a demi-train a yard long, is
quite sufficient. A very conv venient and stylish
method OF making rich dresses, which are
required to serve double purpose, is to make
he under skirt walking length, and the upper
'kirt long, SO that 1t can be looped mp to form
very full panier, or Let down as train for the
trawing room. A good deal OF silk or other
material 10 required for q costume of TINS
description, particularly as the material is now
mainly used tor trimming, but then IL forms
wo complete dresses. The .sshot'' or change.
bile silks are 90 exquisite In TINT, as to consti.
ute the esthetic element In maeriel. The nne
hades blend into hue so delicate, yet 90 per.
ect that there il no name for IL, and only face,
II q lovely fringe made OF the two colors can
id an attraction TO IL. There is no change in
he arrangement Of ordinary skirts. They are
till gored perfectly plain in front partially |
'unched in large gathers at the back. |
eLnvHs.
These are strictly coat-shaped, sman at the
wrist and rounded mp high on the shoulder, |
he broad monsquetalre CUT 10 often addsd to |
be wrist or simulated BY trimming Of siik
Y velvet .#rf ..s sfr
More drsesy sleeves are puasd, some
o the elbow, some 70 the wrist; the puifs hten !
nd not unfrequently ornamsnted Win van. /
y Zee, the points turned mp instead OF down \
is fashionable now 70 rufle sleeves A. ths N. /
ow AZ well a. at the top and the wrist, but we |
g not consider II graceful er becoming meth. /
d, IL gives Q sharp outline 70 the bend OF the /
I'm and makes the upper part OF the ARM
gnfch 10 rarely as full as 1t ought 70 Be, look /
thinner still BY compaytson. The full dress /
ieevee, worn with very loy uecked dresses, i
re mere strape, with little quilting OF the 4
rho object 70 this. exposure, and still want |
OmethinR rn0ra dreIoey than lane nrot