The weekly standard., 1869-09-08
FASHIONS.

1
As a novelty of the season we notice orna-
ments of black velvet worn very much upon |
! clear fabrics. Ribbon ruches seemed too |
simple after the shining splendor of jet |
This is why we have come back to velvet |
trimmings. f.t..
White leno dress, pearl-gray and buff |
| gauze dresses are ornamented with wide |
borders ofblack velvet
In new materials we have to mention the
the gray cyclope, splendid silk; black,
violet, dark, blue or green, or even Grim
son, with narrow gold-colored stripes placed |
far apart from each other. 1t makes up very
elegant costumes. The silk dress is gener-
ally worn with puff basque, which has the
advantage of dispensing with wearing of an
out-ofdoor mantle.
A pretty mantleis the Diva, short circu-
lar fitted to the waist at the back with
sash bow, and falling loose over the sleeves.
1t is made of black poult de sol, and is trim
med with cross stripes and with deep
fringe or lace border
The Marquise is pretty tight-ftting pat
eliot of black silk, open at the back with
revers up to the waist, and ornamented with
large bows and lapels. Trimming of fancy |
braid and Tom Thunb ffihge.
Mantles of clear grenadine and crepe de
Chine, forming both double skirt and bo- |
dice, and fashionable in black; Or for very
dressy toilettes, in white to wear over color /
ed silk dresses. They are trimmed with |
ruches and futing.
Foulard de Nice is charming fancy ma
terial for young ladies' dresses Hresembles
mOusseline de laine, but is of finer texture,
and is very suitable for the drapefies Of |
modern dresses. Foulard de Nice is white
with tiny pattern in some bright color,
or in black for half mourning.
New sashes are made with short scalloped |
out lappets, extremely wide. Let us note, |
In this style, a sash of sultan colored gros /
grains ribbon, with large bow and two
lappets of unequal length placed one above
the other.
Another sash made In the same manner is |
OF black ribbon, with a bouquet of poppies,
| corn-fowers and dsisies and wheat ears en-
broidered in raised work, and in natural
tints upon each lappet.
These sashes are in great vogue for sum-
mer balls and fetes. These Roman sash or
scarf, with stripes of the national Roman
colors and the Vatican sash of soft pale
tints are also very fashionable.
The fashions are now very well settled for
the summer, and our couturieres have only
the resource of trimmings in which to dis
play their taste and powers OF invention:
Sea side toiiettes are always niore fanciful
than Others and these must NOW engage our
attention.
A pretty costume is made partly of blue
mohair, and partly of the the same material
striped of different colors, yellow, black,
blue, and orange, each stripe being edged
with line of white. The lower part of |
the bodice and the second skirt which is
looped up four times with d bouillion and |
fluting round the edge are a self colored |
material. The upderskirt. the upper part |
| Of the high bodice, and the large sash, are |
| of striped mohair The effect ofthe tout en-
semple is extremely good.
A walking toilette is of white silk gauze
| the deep pleated founce is embroidered |
| with blue silk. This dress has two skirts;
the second is looped up with two puffs
shost manufacturing three puffs at the |
back and two rounded lappels in fronts |
worn with waistband over it, and large |
bunch Of loops at the back.
The same toilette is simpler in light gray
sultana (very fine mohair) edged with |
mauve.
| Another charming walking toilette is of |
mauve and white striped gauze de Cham
berry. 1t is trimmed with black lace. The
skirt is ornamented with five small gathered |
flounces, with a narrow edging of black
lace; the second skirt, of the same material,
forms tunic which comes down as far as
the heading of the upper flounce; it is
| gathered at the back. This dress is worn
with short tight fitting jacket of mauve
silk, richly trimmed with black lace, and a
| wide mauve and white striped ribbon sash
tied over the basques of the jacket.
| One of the prettiest materials of summer
| is the sultana, of which we spoke just now.
| There are several varieties of it, the newest
of which is the clear sultana with satin
stripes Sometimes both the clear and sat-
in stripes are of one color, but at Others
there is clear white ground with mauve or
blue, or green, cerse or buttercup colored
stripes In other cases the ground is shot
mauve or blue or green and white, while the
stripes are plain mauve, blue, &C. This is
also very pretty and very new.
Some dresses of black barege, with white
satin stripes, are made with dress and man
telet to correspond.
A little glimmer of Autumn preferences
begins to peep up side by side with the
purer shades of summer colors, although
weeks will pass before fall fashions come to
anything definite.
Lightest muslins and white grenadines
are occasionally too cool for evenings at the
beach, and everything that is bright hued
and Oriental comes to the rescue
Brilliant lines on white grounds, and the
richest grapes, hanging in wavy folds are
more than fashionable
| Every possible shade of pongee is worn,
from the cork color and almond brown, to
palest buff with dull shadow resting upon
1 Some travelling dresses designed for fall
wear are made of Panama, and bamboo
fibre, of heavy quality, quite rough to look
at but soft to the hand. This material is in
such demand that enough of it is not to
be had at any price.
There is positive mania for all kinds of
pongees, India foulards, grapes, manillas and
pineapple cloth.
Ladies who preserved their Canton Grape
shawls, which were in fashion twenty years
ago, are not sorry for their prudence now.
They are among the most courted and styl-
ish of light grapes they are no longer worn
in the simply folded triangle, however, but
are cunningly draped about the person in
manner requiring the skill ofa modiste.
Scarlet, black and white shawls are the
most fashionable, though we have seen one of
the shade called ecru, the peculiar unbleach
ed color, which was most delicate and beau
tiful.
Shoes, quite low, with a high, pointed
heel piece, running off at the back of the
foot, and square piece everything the instep,
arc now tolerated out of doors at the sea
shore and country place. They have large,
fiat bows of kid, and square steel buckles
shaping to the foot
Stockings of linen web as fine as Desde-
mona's handkerchief are worn with these
pretty Shoes and the supply. of Madame
Metternich of 1865 pairs does not seem quite
so fabulous Some beautiful scarlet shoes
of this style are seen with white peignors at
breakfast
Long chains of coral, strung as baby
chains were wont to be, are fashionable, as
also short chatelaines of cut coral with the
watch hanging, ACCOMPANIED by mapy