The New York herald., 1869-05-02
PARIS FASHIONS.

The Races and the Weuther-The fanier he-
vivai-Ex-Q Queen Isabella In Public-Hu-
mors About HIlle. Nilsson-The Diva's
Reception md Her Guests-The Toilets
9 Court FashiOns--N0velties-S Cos.
tusnes-Tho Prince Imperial and the Tele-
E graph. o. n9i11aas el l.aai 4i1l
~ 60, l.... .,,.s -. PARIS, April 13, 1863.
No one WHO went TO the races at the Bois DC Bou-
logne last Sunday was prepared for the heat, sun
and dust with which all were afflicted IN den'-
sdiSoa toilets. A succession of snowy and rainy
days had suggested cashmere mantles, tartan wrap
pers. an extra w0oen Hnderskirt and the necessity
OF standing on high coaches had also prompted
ladies' to adopt longer-well, yes, longer-Irllled
drawers than usual All this clothing was con-
sequently intolerable when the orb OF day
shed twenty eight degrees or what the scientific call
calorc, even amid the most impenetrable frls. For
the first time, too since the paner revival it became
evident that these protuberances are by no means
calculated to keep female nature cool in Its back.
The quantity OF beeswing tunic ruched all around
attracts the sun, and the glare OF our new hues IN
changing tnts is trying to eyesight just before the
budding leaves expand and OFFER shade. Notwith-
standing these discoveries the scene was very gay.
Four splendid equipages, d la grande Da"ntont.
created little sensation. They were those Of the
Duke and Duchess de MOuchy, now located at the
Elysee; Of Princess de Metternich, of Duke de La
rochefoucauld and M. de Mercy Argenteau.
The Queen Of Spain was In q caleche, her servants
in small livery with the red and white galloon and
aiglets of the house Of Bourbon. Isabella was in
green, and on arriving with Don Francis modestly
sat down ON one of the raised platforms bordering
the race course, which some OF her gentlemen in
waiting were indignant to behold and made her un-
derstand that it was not fit place lor an ex-Queen
She yielded to their entreatles and accepted chair
All eyes were turned on her; some women even
stood up on their own seats to strain over and get
view OF her. This curiosity was SO excessive that
Isabella was just making up her mind to retire when
the Emperor fortunately arrived. With one quick
glance he understood the situation, and politely
walking up to the dethrOned Queen he offered
her his arm and led her to the imperial
stand, begging her to be seated by his side.
But not even the EmperOr's presence could preserve
her from being laughed at ar the end OF the races
concealed most Irresistible temptation to do like
nto ny aad % s
1t so happened that when the aristOcratc party de-
scended to enter their carriages the Emperor
up first evidently anxious to see her or safe and to
show her in public all the honor due to her former
had got in o rut and trying to tug out got in a
wheel, ana there was formidable pull, prancing
and nelghlng among neighboring Jehus and their
noble steeds. At length the calecne was free, and
Isabella with her cOnsOrt stepped In, but 10! they
could not sit down without breach OF court etiquette
before the Emperor, who was standing. and q jerk
from behind tipped them OF sudden right OF their
perpendicular on COmtesse Girgenti. This 1t was
that caused universal harty, and may those who In
selves II they never have laughed when
they have seen fellow creature sprawl
IN heap of mud as soon as he emerged from his
house door in white pants and q rosebud in his
buttonhole But this Is M DEPRESSION, and 70 return
party the same evening" Her arrangements with
her 'che" are 300 per day, for which sum he is to
provide for the family and household. The toilet 1
consider the most becoming to her was the one she
at the opera for 'Faust" few days before the
races. 1t was red robe, trimmed with black lace;
harh w a n nd lon
fruit.
This mention of "Faust' reminds me, of course,
OF Margaret and Mile. Nilsson, on whose account
the papers have all published union with the Duke
de Massa. 1t mad been repeated with SO much
sns BY the gan mad
that the swedish diva received congratulations from
her friends 1t, however occurred last saturday at
party IN high life that the Duke being invited be
did not come and some excitement being caused By
his absence the lady OF the house informed her
guests that the Duke had delcatey declined on
to avoid a meeting which must annoy her after the
rumors spread without foundation. This fntelll-
gence fired me with O noble emulation to ascertain
whether the famed singers heart was freenot that 1t
win materially, physically or morally affect my bache
on matrimony do interest me more than any other.
Sunday afternoon being Mlle Missions reception
salon. The lovely blonde was holding small court.
She was IN black corded silk, with train; her collar
and cuffs were Of PLAIN linen; the only trimming
seen was q large black corded bow In front OF her
collar, which fell IN points on her bodice. No gems
no earrings, no jewels not even ring gnbileeD on
her finger. But her light hair was sufficient Orna
ment. 1t raised In ripples her on each
side and q thick coil from behind formed q crown
above; one curl fell over her left shoulder Il never
noticed how starlike her blue mild gaze BEFORE
nor admired her faultless set OF teeth so much.
Comtes marquises, baronesses and the pride OF the
other; q few words were exchanged and that
was all. The circle was continually formed
csded 5 vacant sea dVa naa Re
TO all with equal courtesy and high born collected
ness, and when her future union with the Duke
found all ready listeners she assured every well
wsher that 1t was false report she thought the
Duke delightful composer and was very sorry for
uncomfortable. Wny my heart bounded within me
cannot say, but this ignorance was shared by q
dipomatist OF high standing-he Is over five feet
tall fancied saw his organ OF feeling leap under
his shirt fr0nt-a thing now rendered visible by
open vests kept on by single button. One toilet
must describe seen at this receptlon:-lt was robe
OF chameleon pout black and bright red copper;
the underskirt was made OF a succession OF small
nounces and train, open on each side down the
front, like court mantle, in order to show the
tabcr; tight bodice and large pouf OF bows
behind: The train was looped on the left
side in ricn gimp clasp and tassels
renaissance style; ladies' who do not wear these
clasps enter a saloon with the train over their left
arm as they would riding habit. black cashmere
cloak with very long sleeves, is worn over these
robes with the train; but the train II often taken OF
and replaced by apanier OF some color that matches
well with the nounced underskirt, In which case no
cashmere mantle IL required, for the panier has
taken the place OF ovcrclOak, shawl mantle and
casaque. The bonnet worn by the lady whose toilet
have described was red copper-coored satin pouf
with three green plumes, fastened by a branch OF
wallnower In the copper, orange ami yellow tints
Were 10 sail out among all the new hats and bon
nets which are being invented should have too
much to say. the general style is feathers agretes
flowers, diadems and raised rims; sometimes hats
are raised at the sides; oftener with dadem IN
front, the rim Is raised high exactly behind above the
comb OF the chignon, and here stands a feather
winch comes over 10 the front
The Empress Mondays are the great end OF ambi-
ton Her nrst was surprise, for tue private apart
ments had undergone changes, the BUFFET was not
where II usually had been, and all the pleasure was
not carried on IN the sale des Marecnaux; strauss
was In his old quarters, however. The young Mar.
quise de Canisy was much admired in simple and
tasteful toilet II was very long robe OF the China
tea rose shade covered by tunic OF plain but limpld
muslin trimmed with snowy valenciennes The
bodice was low, but over the bosom was crossed
nchu with Vaencenncs fril fastened In front by n
gem. branch VI tea fell IN natural clusters
from her hair and their half blusning buds on her
shoulders. ! Will here recommend the prettIest OF