The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1869-04-14
THE LATEST FASHIONS.
special Correspondence of 1ntelIEencer.


NEW YORK, April IL, 1869.
Dresses are much trimmed and near
ly all forms of ornament are used in the
present modes. Satin ruches, puffs OF
silk and satin, fancy rosettes and tabs
with rivers of contracting fabric are seen
most frequently. English thread and
Chantilly lace trim the richest dresses,
and are not spared even on street suits.
Standing f1ounces and quillings, and
machine hemmed ru1lies, are the newest
form of hand made ornament: Olive
and shell puffs, marquise ruches and
satin herring-bone may be added to the
list.
The panier Is seen on few dinner
dresses, but in its place a number OF
sash puffs and basque ends at the back
give the required tournure, and the
large puff ts no longer indispensable to
fashion: These dresses are much pulled
behind, but in the form of Topped
tunic, not the added panier.
Walking dresses are made with
double and triple skirts, the wrapping
Is either shoulder cape, short basque
or overdress, with tunic open in front
and sloping away at the sides. The
apron front Is worn, but the tunic is
newest. Basques are very short; the
lapel at the back sometimes forming a
heading for the sash. Nantes and
jackets are almost invariably belted,
and sashes are short and broad. Deci-
dedly the most stylish mode of making
suits is with u tunic pulled behind and
Topped at the side by straps which pass
from the underdress. The newest mode
OF trimming skirts is with large puts,
which take the place of tlounces. a
dress of pigeon colored eros grain has
ten ruch f1ounce, bias tlounce on the
edge of the skirt, with very narrow
satin binding; above this is bias puff
If tho Gill al q inphna vida E1rFOnnn-
ing the dress. The moderate panier
behind is simply a continuation of the
flounces and puffs. A handsome belt
of silk and satin folds with ro-
settles and short square lapels be-
hind, gives the effect OF q basque
hangs the belt like short fringed
jacket. 1t is fastened with large crochet
buttons in rosettes, and puffs of satin
pass over the shoulder, forming the
outline of a square cape Topped in the
middle behind with large rosette and
fringed satin leaves. The puff5 and
fiouhces on the skirt are Topped atinter-
walls by satin straps, the sleeves are
covered with satin puffs to the elbow.
This is an extremely dressy toilette, but
will be initiated in poplin and thin
goods. Light materials, silk and cot
ton and silk and linen, are out, and
will be worn as soon as the weather ts
silk and linen, with changeable ground
aud hair stripes in bright colOrs, thus:
A ground of green shot with rose and
striped with cherry color; ground OF
canary and green striped with light
green; of dust color and gold striped
with orange. La Monaghan Is two
eighths material of silk and cotton,
much softer than the silk and linen
mixtures, OF plain colors in narrow
equal stripes Of satin the same shade.
Dust and pearl grey, amber and faWn
color. These are we'll adapted to Vatican
suits. A dress in French taste Is
fawn colored Mopgolian, with two
puffed flounces on the skirt. with gradu-
ated ruches of brown silk below be
tween and above them. The upper
dress is q tunic, edged with two gradua-
ted quillings OF brown silk, the side
widths gathered into the front, Wal
team fold falling from below the should
er blades instead Of the neck az usual;
the skirt is Topped in large puff at the
brown silk, and caught by four bows OF
brown silk ribbon two inches wide, with
long loops and short ends. A square
bertha is outlined on the border with
silk quillings. The sleeve Is original.
A strait coat sleeve with fiat box plat
from shoulder tothe waist; narrow brow
quillings round each side the box plat
TO the elbow. The box plat is held in Its
place by a few stitches underneath and
small ribbon brown bows all the
LENGTH The bodice il closed by ribbon
bows. A standing ruche of brown silk
fills the neck. Fanchon of fancy vel
low straw with scarf Of straw, net and
yellow rose and bronze foliage trailing
ono side the face, the scarf held by
knot of bronze and pearl leaves. FAwn
colored gloves.
A stylish unique dress is of stone
colored gros grain poplin which has the
finish of that silk; the skirt is plain
and gored closely In front and on the
hips, The over dress is ofstone colored
len0 With broad satin stripes of same
color. This is made in large tunio
which is as long as the skirt behind. and
Is cut in points like a basque skirt in
front. The back is caught in irregular
pufs, very full indeed, and SO are the
fronts; the sides are plain like sash
ends from the hips, and are trimmed
with broad border OF alternate folds
Of black and crimson elk, and edged
with brocaded fringed ribbon OF those
colors. This is to correspond with q
founce of alternate folds OF black and
crimson notched on the lower edge,
headed with puff of thin material and
standing crimson ruche which is placed
on the front edge of the poplin skirt.
The tunic is finished with a hounce
and puff crossed with crimson ribbons,
and headed with saw teeth of black and
crimson. A pointed short cape edged
with q deep nounce and colored silk
folds which also form wide collar, !
completes the costume. The hat which
suits this costume is white crinoline
with black lace scarf and garland of
crimson fuschias.
A plain walking suit OF marine blue
serge with deep hounce, headed by bias
band and standing ruf11e. Oyer dress
with tunic skirt bouffant meeting
above small round apron edged with
bias fold, RULED each side, tunic
trimmed with a slightly gathered
flounce which is continued over the
shoulders, almost forming q pointed
cape. Pouf hat of black silk with GRIM
son rose and clusters of smaller ones
on the back and front, broad black
strings to tie under the hair, stone col
ored gloves with black volants.
Black silk walking suits are
made very dressy indeed. The foun-
ces are notched on the edge or
laid in three-cornered folds overlapping
each other like saw teeth: the upper
skirt is succession of puts, notched
rnffles and satin honeycomb trimmings,
which frequently require week g Ia
Dor OF six women to finish, for single
dress. No wonder that a dressmaker's
bill for one dress will be six hundred
dollars, when all this work, besides
thread, lace trimming. satin at twelve
dollars yard, and the material of the
dress, which is at least seven dollars,
has to be accounted for. An elegant
but simply designed black suit has a
dounce laid in triple platts or groups Of
three, which is fashionable with three
satin folds stitched on two inches from
the upper edge, tunic bouffant behind
edoad with nlaited fiounce four inches