The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1869-09-28
FALE TAsxEE0Hs.


Ladies' C7OaIa-Tartams- Varie.
ties.
The trees in the Park and along our sidewalks
are now putting ON their gorgeous fall attire o.
crimsons, greens, and gold; aud the modistes Of
Fashion, warned by the cool weather resulting
from the late rain have their shelves and coun
ters stocked with the novelties of this season.
AS yet business has been lamentably dun in all
departments Of the retail trade; but seasonable
| spell of cold davs Will soon besprinkle our
streets with 'loyc> of bonnets"
First in Importance among the beauties for
the consideration of our fair readers must be
| BCnncts.
The shapes Of the bonnets are well-nigh inde-
scribable; but they are bigger than the Fanchon
| style, and that bigness is to be found in their
height. These new shapes do not cover the
head much more than of old; but instead of
lying fiat on the head, they tower above it.,
Thus they are the very reverse of the Fanchon-
the diadem, instead of being across the brow, is
across the chignon They are round, high caps,
with revers front, and are often as fully trimmed
behind as before. The most graceful shapes are
almost skeleton bonnets-two or three bands of
silk and velvet alternately forming the base for
n spray of flowers, which, with its garniturc of
lace and velvet loops, covers the whole bonnet,
net. The bands about the face are often plain.
and fit the forehead closely The crowns are
high, and composed of full velvet paitings or
diagonal folds, rarely plain, and then covered
with lace.
Velvet rOydle and gros-grain are the mate-
rials, with feathers for the principal trimmag.
a long scarf of net behind and strings to be
tied under the chin. Lucifer, maroon, and prnne
are the most distinguished colors. Black will
be greatly worn. There are novel shades of
green-a pale, watery tint is Cerd nile: a fresh
bright color is oasi,-green; and rich dark
shade is the Russian green. Rose-pink will be
much worn for evening bonnets; also pink-coral
color, the soft tint OF pale Neapolitau coral and
cerise, the warm Glowing red of a cherry
Blondine is a goldcu-brown shade, like the fair
tresses of a blonde; Egyptian brown is like vel
low dust. A model bonnet of maroon and ruby
velvet has high revcrs front covered with n
fall of Chantillv lace. The dropping back is of
futed velvet and lace A shaded ostrich feather
surmounts the centre. Pompadour square is
formed below the chin by narrow velvet edped
with ruby fold and tied in knots at intervals
Narrow ribbon tic. \ prune-colored velvet has
a plain Tevers with large rose cluster near the
front. quilting of velvet edged with gros-
grain finishes the back. 4 large scarf falls low
on the breast, is lOuped at the left side and left
flowing.
Flowers viii he much used as the season adj
vances. Indeed some of the finest bOnnets have
no decoration bur roses and lace. The patterns
for the season show rich satin and velvet Howers.
Roses and holly. ru,es and grapes, roses and
eldeTblossom repeat themselves in luXuriant
designs. Clusters of full variegated rosebuds.
with autumn 1oliage are a favorte addition,
and full, medium roses In soft crimson are the
most popular flowers of the season. Wreaths of
elderberry, jasmine and rOsebuds are placed in
evening bonnets. Beautiful vines of veined ivy
with scarlet autumn leaves intermingled are de-
signed for winter has. Painted geraniums are
effective flowers with their variegated leaves
The pansy, in variety large and small, golden,
purple, and tri-coorcd, is fayorite flower. and
is richly copied in velvet. Tulips anu lilies of
Grape and pearl, with tufts of marabout issuing
from their cups, are the most expensive and
delicate novelties. Fringes of cured ostrich
bows and tassels OF feathers are produced in
variety of shapes, and are delicate for evening
bonnets in white. They do not look so well in
colors as the natural ostrich tips. Aigrettes and
feather TUFTS are worn with plumes as usual.
Round Hats.
Round hats are almost universally adopted
this season. The popular shape curves low in
front and behind, with high sloping crown and
turned-up brim. Two feathers at the front cross
over the crown, almost concealing it. The brim
is covered with velvet and rosette or pompon
is in front scarf of the new Donna Maria
gauZe (Which resembles silk tissue) is fastened
behind, from whence it encirces the neck and
is then permitted to fall behind. This is not a
the neck, which is now too much exposed by
low-tbrOated dresses. The scarf is yard and a
half long and the width of the gauze. When
made of dotted net it is three-eighths broad and
edged with lace two inches wide
This style of hat is called La FrOnde. It is
very handsome in glossy black plush with velvet
brm. Two long ostrich feathers sweep back
over the crown, crossing each other behind. A
jet aigrette is in front. Ladies who trim their
own hats will find that a slight twist near the
tip of long ostrich plume will make il curl
gracefully.
La Lig,teur. also of the high mousquetaire
shape, slopes very low behind on the chatelaine
a gray felt Ligueur has blue velvet facings on
the brim, and fan-shaped bow of velvet and
gros grain behind. y grey ostrich tuft Mt the
back droops toward the front. Scarf of gray
gauze behind, gathered together halfway down
by blue bow.
La COmteSse is the most sensible hat shape of
the season. The crown is two and half inches
high, sloping with Upturned sides. This gives
the peculiarties of the fashion, namely, the ele-
waited crown and velvet revers, without gro
tesqueness.
La VaHiore, n peculiar shape, is the most
stylish hat of the season. The brim projects in
front and ut the sides, but is turned up abruptly
behind, and sllrmOunUed with ostrich plumes
nOdding toward the front An elegant model is
of maroon velvet with n torsade of gros grain
around the crown an ostrich feather Mt the back
curling forward, and long scarf of black net
edged with lace. Strings of gros grain ribbon
are designed to be tied under the chin, but may
be tied behind.
Simple hats worn for travelling and on ordi-
nary occasions are OF black or brown straw in
the Fronde shape, with n white gull's breast on
one side, and cluster of slender black plumes
on the other.
The materials for fashionable hats are soft
drab and maroon tets silver-grey plush, velvet
Cloth cut and uncut. and pouH de sole, much
shirred and pulled. The latter material requires
deep reVers and bows of velvet To render it m