, 1869-07-12
An AMERICAN ABROAD,

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Letter from Nomc-OTcF-Extlfun II
Itngy--A Realistic sketch OF Som Q
OF lta CIn0sfc PlnccR-Thc Nenuty
OF shc Country-The Eternal City
Ias Extreme UnplcnsnntuesS-T
Mnnin for Art nnd Antiquities
The Vandalism OF Common Sense.
EUMREn TX.
[YnoA Och OWN eoAREdroSDENT.l
RoxE, Italy, May -.
The excessive enthusiasm, Rsthettc and ei1ss-
tca, expressed II not felt about Italy, nt least
far as Its towns and citiea are concerned, have
ncrtr been nb!e to share. For the laAt ha1f cen
turf Il has been the habit Of MI persons who hare
vlGted thts country to iudnige IN rhapsodIes con-
corning IL Many were sincere, no doubt; but
more were merely reporters Of what they thought
they ought to say to sustain their reputation for
appreciation md taste.
ITALY CE1DElL1zKp.
DJEop, an inclined to believe, mere than nnY-
one else, set the fashion In his "Chslde Harold -
u sdmi.!ng Italy. lie SO Landed It; 60 coDj1red
up liz past IN shapes Of beauty and syIlahlca Of
npAlc, that he made the country poem; In 9th.
eF Words nagntned its cracet. aud omitted Ill its
defectA VERY large and cultivated cl1ss fal 10
ind here what They hare been forced 70 Anucl-
pate t,y the hJpeTboles Of literature and art. But
they hare certain coupnnctlons Of conscience
against making the acknowledgement; and &c
Italy nnd ali It contains contlnne 10 pass as sJno-
uStEs of beauty
Italy Is most delightful to those who have nevel
visited II 1t Is worth while coming here 70 be
dlseneaanted. The iliuEtons OF l1Ie are sweet md
It Il humno to cber1sh them. Bat VIC dwell IN a
Age Of practically. OF mAtef9al philosophy
and value tuth more than aught else It Ia pleas
ant and pretty to talE OF dreams OF Italy. Duf
Ike othct dreams they are very different from The
Awakening. Tuscany, Florence, the Afno, The
T1bcr, Rome, dncA palaces, c1asslc Views seem
far more attractive IN Chicago or New York fhna
when We arc ii and among thesu-
sohz OF 1T6 c1T1k8-
Very recently. have visited Turn, Genoa, Pla-
cenza, farua.' Modem. Bologna, FiStola, Laecs,
Llverno. Psa and otnef places OF leas nole not U
tpeak OF the Eternal CITY and not one OF hed
can be cohsloe1eo Aanosome ot p1easanI 1aAt
from Aem the1 nlasof7e assoca1lons and N
COLLECTIONS aha no one would lay Sntiano ol
tfalse upon l0clt c1omoinR enr,nes.
e,s, fn Of ar,y peooe
smells, where the few beauties nre 80 hidden from
view as 10 require q guide 10 hunt them ouk
psaccusa received It's nnHe from the
ancient Honans,-saslr,cu fellows, tney!-
because there Kas and IL nothing pleasau,
INT Parma IS OF much ancient md medlRva
1enowu, aud reminds you OF decayed brickyard
In u 6us,Y dny. 1t wns destroyed during the VAR
Of ll1e Tnumyuatc, md Julius Cesar and AL
EuEius made the 1oistnke OF rebuilding II. Al
earthquake visited 1t In 1s3s-one Of the few
things that can visit It With adyanta2e-Rud shool
doTu some Of It's kouses- Snturo generally IN
de1b,atds what she is about. CoHcgio has yes1
me frcsco upon the cnpola OF tho Duono-at leasi
1t would be .cry nne II any o1e could sec Il Bat
between the distance and The c1umbung ceilings,
1t ts difficult to determine whethe. 1t Is
the Assuup,ton Of the Virgin or the re-
mains OF hen.rotst Petrnrch-Vhen he
wns rracrezY ato,,t Jaurn III Nnyes. I sunposez
drertrd II hc died in Parma. TINT he should be
tu,r1e1 fh.nc. nn, he fnot rarr,cnfa, nninx IN
eIe scnewhrre else p.Irnrrh vssnr snrh n
~, .. n,n, .,,r rim ,,- II. .,tda,,,v snsn.
rh.-a t, .,ra ~, hfu ,hort
Ms.,ena is ,,1rh ,,Sa po,,a ,,,v ror. "a
13,. r,oet ,or,n,to -. ~ :, -, ~ 49, txs,x,
.h.-,,,o,s =, ~ s.,ross ,r,In ~. -. ~
49,, a..,,a. 1r.a.,.a...s. =. sar"...-.'
ali n. ,,a,,ar To- t,,a r,av pn1,-s s.rs.
'''A~ - ~ ~ -. .u =. Sl.',"
btop At The Ktecio ratcN
But take my adyIce and don't come,
Bologna Is popuIarly identified With the saussses
OF that maine: but thev nre rot the nroduct Of
whnt IS known IN art as the Bolozuess school.
So fur as can be ascer.atned, neither the Ca.accI
nor Domeaichiao nvr Guido, during their lycs
laid any claim to the!r creation. They are sup
poscl to have been the wotx
Of .cnng mistress, instead OF An old
master. Bologna was once famous for tts uni.
ve,s..y, which had number Of very learned 1emi-
ulnc professors aud subscribed to the Rsro,utt3,,-
OF would have done 90, II that weekly had then
nou1a.hed. Inu confident Madonna Maaeollna
Ind Ma:!lua Tamhroni would have beea delighted
10 ccntybute to Its coiumn-. 1t WAS In Bologna
that 1nelea Lambcstazzl and Bon1lazio G.ercuoeL
you remember. loved 50 levo.edly and died SO
uagicalfJ. ltis strange they have not figured
notc in literature. Ther deserve the fame Of
ronantcc as much rs Romeo and Juliet, or AbelaId
and Hclo!se. They shall yet be immortal III
Wlitc my next novel abo7t tleui Everyons Will
fancy II Hay be good, fos no one Will read
IT, VI Flsto)a anu LuecA lHle need be
SAIL Luees Els pleasant sal1ounoloSa but me
Town Is not interesting. Leorno has good pao-
!'c sa'aeu' ana selT ia1 psonenaoe pJ tne Sea
Ns F'pI.a'!oh. tate III nten'' u .oe nolsaest IN
4ns' 9ney cl1Hes nase ue hsnest or aHak
'he hlfoheest epus!s o. any Feoiie l nave seen
s'nee e5osSea Inc alps
t1s4 contains oeana,ul ca'nearal, 1ae leaning
lower o. course, aua the 'e15 eunoos campo
sto' bat II IS Vef5 a1els 10 Aseu, tul OF Sfe'cn-
eA HoIe1s, Ano ea&1 La'na i've AuAA1sa nSa8 70
esesy inca o. liz tf17Iofy.
TIE TofodRafnf. ......--....
ec'Ealn pal1a o. lalJs sach u she valley OF the
licFc1a- tae fnlns Q! LoNos1dger hoo tae fc2ipn
between home aua Florence afe delightful They
nlc crowded with landscapes, and almost butfe.t
!ou with beauty. fou want to stay amid its
ehas1rlog scenes forever, and dream your life
away. Bat when sou enter IT. towns
the dcstrc dlspelled. EquAfot, garlic
and beggafB ase no compensation for
The gor1rs Of nature The climate Of this coun-
Try Is vastly ofcl1a1ed. II Is chilly and raw IN
uintcr, and oprtessivelT hot tn summer. Its
agreeable carly IN the enrln1 and late In the su-
tnulu, when u is agreeable hluoht anJkherc.
Americans suher more from cold here thAa they
would al home for there arc no means Of keeping
warm. 4 panies OF wood, II 1t Is called, La moth
Ing rLo1e Than bundle Of vine tTigf. that amole
nueh and blrn little The bleak, penetrating
wu.d sweeps down fFom the Alps and the Appe-
ninef evcu as far dewa "a Naples, and Kills Iuva-
lids plrturcsquriy. When people are troubled
with consumption theJ should come to Italy: but
tacJ should make their Wills nrst, H. how
ever, they have any will OF their own. they would
better remain nj home Dy 80 doing tney can
beue1t their physician by making hte btlj larp,er.
and epite iheir reIaiiyes Il they have any proper
II, by living much longer THIN wealthy peop.e
have any right to,
All that Is Eaid about the oel,ciops ntmosphere
md cloudleks Eky, and brac!nF brecxea OF ltsI5.
applies almost cqpauY well to other couutrtca In
the hame laLtEdc. Pleasant weather Is like
ple1Iant weather anywhere else, and di&azrreable
weather fully ii tlkasreeablr The repeated
declarations that In thta air Jou feel II Joy eec-
ls to I've IL mnd rubbish. II Is not JOY to live
anywhere, unless you arc fortunate In tempesa-
tncUt. Circumstance aud destiny. II lnan had
two no:hers-in.l .laH, OF xFate tor q daily news-
paper, Tuscany woall give hin little satls-
facs!ua-
TIE LSFEEsAL CITY.
War rersons Ike 70 remain In Rome pe.l1a-
nentlJ Is he5ond 1nJ determining, nnless, OF
colsse, they aze interested In art or antiquities
This IL question hnye been trying to solve Tor