The Portland daily press., 1869-04-13
Notes by the Way.

ROME, March 16, 1859.
To the Editor of the Press:
The ride by rail from Naples to Rome is
interesting from the beauty of the scenery
and the many places of historic interest. The
time occupied is nine hours, including the
detentions at the frontier Custom Houses,
where the examination of. passports and
searching of baggage by the papal authorities
causes an annoying delay. We arrived at
Rome in the evening, passing the Campagna
by moonlight; its brightness dimly revealing
the aqueduct and other ruins that you see
as you approach the city. The train was de-
tanned before its arrival at the station in or
der to deliver back to the passengers the pass
ports which had been taken from them at the
frontier, and I was really in Rome $50 long
the mistress of the world" The weather
most of the time have been here has been
stormy and cold, and quite uncomfortable for
sight seeing. There are a large number OF
Americans and English travellers here, and
during holy week which is close at hand their
numbers will be increased. The hotels aie
good, but parties who stay any length of
time prefer to take apartments. They can
live there more comfortably and economical
ly. My first visit was of course to st. Peters,
and the impression received was of disap-
pointment. 1t did not appear so large as
expected, nor its dome so high. The
colonnades in front, the Vatican and other
buildings adjoining, detract somewhat from
its grandeur and stateliIess. But when went
inside, and passed through its nave (of 61S
feet in lengthy and aisles with their massive
arches and pavement Of marble, locked up
into its dome, saw its ehapels, with their mo
saics and statues; the bronze canopy under
which rests the remains oil st. Peter, sur
rounded with 9S lamps, which are always
lighted, its grandeur and glory and beauty
filled me with wonder and amazement, that
the art and industry of man could design and
construct such magnificent temple OF wor.
ship. A view from the top of its dome re-
veals more completely its size and immensity; ;
but since the Garibaldian troubles, permits to
visit that and the crypt are Withheld.
1t would be impossible for me, in these
rapid notes, to fully describe what have
seen in this city of the past ages. have
probably been the usual round of all visitors,
from the Coliseum to the "Piazza del PopoIi,"
from the "Quirinal to the Vatican" viewing
columns, old ruins, monuments, churches,
| galleries of art, villas, palaces, &C., SO that
when / finish ny visit here they will all be
crowded and jumbled up in a delightful con-
fusion and pleasing recollection. Rome is
| cleaner, more orderly and quiet city than l
anticipated. Its beggars are not SO numer-
GUS or importunate as at Naples. The papal
troops, gendarmes and French soldiers are
GOOD looking men. The Zouaves especially,
who are young men from Catholic countries
all over the world, are remarkably intelliaent
appearing. Some of them are from the Uni
ted States. In the composition of his guards
the Pope has no prejudice OF color. have
seen in the ranks of the Zouaves colored men
marching along with white.
Most Of the foreign visitors who come here
are presented to the Pope. 1t is very easy