The New York herald., 1869-01-02
SPAIN.


by rail or steamer, to the tourist;
but majority OF those are in SPAN. This magni- |
dcent country, where communication OF a comfort |
able and easy description most needed, is the
last to construct railways and TO build common |
roads. Within few years she has accomplished |
wonders and II foreign capitalists do not tire OF per-
manently investing their funds in public works here
she win do more in the future As 1t Is you may ira
verse one end OF Spain the other toerably well
constructed railroads, built by French capital and
engineers. Every large commercial city Is In COM
munication with the capital, and that city can
be reached by rail from Paris in forty hours
There is one very important link yet to be supplied
In the railway web OF Spain, and that Is from this
ancient capital and historic city to the Madrid lines
Work has been done on the line. but as yet the gap
must be crossed by diligence over Q country which
has literally no road at all and which Ii entirely I'm
passaDe IN rainy weather. II things go on well we
may expect to learn that in two years cars
can pass without break from Madrid to the last
stronghold OF the Moors in Spain. However
novel and curious diligence ride may be,
travellers viii hail the contamination OF this
undertaking with great Joy, because it removes an
immense barrier between them and the most delight
Sul and interesting spot the peninsula, II not in
Europe. For myself, do not care to undergo the
fatigues, hunger and discomforts Of the journey
severe than one can readily imagine, especially at
this season OF the year. The favorite road OF reach
ing Granada s by diligence from Malaga over the
Roya turnpike, pike There M are two lines day one ex-
the afternoon. chose the former in order 70 enjoy
as much Of the scenery as possible, as well as to
the mountains With one Of the Officers OF the Swa-
tara and another gentleman started from Malaga
ne for Granada sas was n the COUPE
top, to which managed to find my way III the dark
after noundering over PASSENGERS ana baggage and
ence OF three other passengers ON the same narrow
seat would allow. We started or with flourish OF
Dugles from the position and 20 the music OF the
bells OF the eight ten mules that dragged the veh
Gle along. There was little to be seen more than
an hour. We knew that we we're uashing through
the narrow streets OF Malaga the bridge OF the
mountain torrent that sometimes nows through the
town, and finally up It's bank across It's rocky bed
donkeys laden with vegetables or fruit, and tinay
TO the Royal road, when the light OF the
get bearings and the driver greater facility
detecting and avoiding holes In the road, which gave
the diligence an exceedingly unpleasant and dan
ger0us motion to the deck passengers. The Malaga
and Granada diligence ts not handsome stylish
vehicle s Dy amy means ss9 and t may be aadod with
sentatlon, IL Is not comfortable 1t may have had
springs or some conirivance to obviate violent jolt
ing and arring but II It had they were so cunningy
arranged that they were not visible to the naked
eye, nor did they perform their duty the unhappy
persons who sat over them. With the exception OF
being very jolly and very uncomfortable, possibly 1t
resembled the luxurious French diIigence d very
pe1 o. wen dhs
bus, with seats for eight insde-four victims on
either seat facing each other and witnesses OF the
general misery-surm0unted by y strong roof, In
front OF which Is seat covered with top like /
buggy, called the coupe, and below which ia the /
drivers seat, ana you have the ordinary Spanish Il
diligence. All the baggage is carried on the roof |
protected by cumbersome cover OF leather, which
Il All 'e IN swnaSr around snaro curve Wh
frghtful precipice right under you. Put eight, ten
or twelve mules In pairs ahead. the lett leader bear
ing the position driver guiding the wheel ami
mails and man OF all work to run alongside the i
team to join the driver in whipping them up and to |
curse them with every possible oath In the Spanish
language magnifcently rich In that article-and /
you may fancy what sort OF progress diligence /
must make through the country. There is no lack Of
NOISE. Amid the cracking OF whips the sharp calls
OF the drivers to each individual animal by name
sometimes In terms OF endearment or compliment
at others In terms Of the vilest reproach, In which
the entire family OF the poor beast Is vi,fed as II
the animal was running for Office at homeland
whips on the mules back; and amid other strange l
music the pride OF Spain goes numbering along at |
the rate OF about six miles an hour, with as much
joting and bruisng as can be Afforded by any other
known civilized means OF conveyance.
For ten hours with brief intermissions for change
Of teams did this go on before the journey was
ended at the railway station tsojal twenty miles
from Granada The scenery was beautiful and
worth almost any fatigue to see. For siNor seven
hours the ascent OF the mountains Is sharp
and uninterrupted. The road winds around the
sides in the most curious manner and
evades valleys and gorees without bridges In man.
ner quite unique. For hours you get views OF the
city Of Malaga and the Mediterranean until II seems
that could get out OF sight OF them travel
as long as you viii. All along the road You get
gmpses OF vineyards, clingng TO steep sides OF |
gorges you see snug little white houses, seemingly
to anything without wings, From these
province, the soi which appears so iniospItable
and poor giving the choicest and strongest elements
s 9er Sg e se4 t
rays All along the road we met long |
strings Of donkeys laden with boxes Of raisins,
the drivers being in every case armed with
D gun Of some Sort Since the revolution every one
their houses without their shot gas or rides. TO be
used In case OF robbers. l noticed too. that the
peones who repaired the roads had their mussets BY
have heard reports OF robbeIles or outrages hap
penng on the road. Perhaps the measures taken to
would not care 20 ride alone, unarmed, from Malaga
10 Granada, In the present situation OF things Many
perhaps they were very honest and respectable peo-
pie IN their way and quite innocent OF any idea OF
Alter ioiIsomc ascent OF over 1000 feet you reach
he summit OF the nrst range OF mountains, and
nen plunge into long valley again, and afterwards
sranada. Except the nne mountain scenery there |
= little beautiful or interesting TO be observed until
iere is in splendid condtion. and you 20 swinging
along In grand style. LoJa ~ an old Moorish town,
Ss strongly n,a0 e y esss and and S rss s
he former Is OF the most picturesque and beau
iful towns that can be found. IL stands on Hill In |
ne midst OF the town and lords IL the insgnt-
ant place with the air Of true representative Of
he Moorish architecture OF the middle ages.
The streets Of LOLA are exceedingly narrow and |
rocked. the houses are In the Moorish style and
gery old and quaint The usual number OF hidalgos,
n their immense cloaks and large, round peaked |
rats, stood In the plaza, talked politics and gazed
olidly upon the diligence. No plaza would be COM
,ete without two or three groups Of these splendid
oafers who aid the women OF the country TO stare
II strangers. At Lola we took the railroad for |
Granada, twenty-five miles distant, where we ar.
lived at seven O'Clock. hungry and fatigued. There
3 not hotel or place on the road between Malaga
md Lola where one may get anything to eat except
boiled eggs and sausagcs so filled with garlic that
hey were strong enough To 20 alone. Bread and
-ough wine abundant. but they are not exactly
ulted to>foreigners tastes for long journey. Per-
ions travelling In Spain ought TO provld themselves
WITH o good supply OF provisions and not rely on
,asadas or railroad stations for food. Ny experience
4 that they are all very bad.
rhe Vega OF Granada Ia one OF the most fertile and
lrOductlYc and the most heantlf OF the valleys OF