The weekly standard. [volume] (Raleigh, N.C.) 1869-18??, 1869-11-17
FASHIONS.
THE CLOAK OF THE PERIOD


THE CLOAK OF THE PERIOD
is the coat to all intents and purposes. The
most fashionable styles, as developed by the
approach of the colder season, is, as stated
In previous letter, the popular Redinqote.
or riding coat, handsomely cut in the fig.
ure, and ornamented with rerers broad cuffs
and large buttons. % a'elar -.it b.. .arfsJ
The coat, when made in velvet, is cut with
side paniers instead of lappels, and richly
trimmed with black lace at the waist and
across the shoulders, terminating in cas-
cade, or series loops or bows, in the GEN.
ter OF the back. The skirt is lined with
white satin, and the garment when, COM
plete is called a Marquist coat.
Another very handsome and more useful
velvet cloak is made almost exactly like a
gentleman's dress coat, only lappels are
rather narrow, and are turned back in re-
GERS, over a round paniered upper skirt.
This cloak has the advantage that the skirt
and coat are separate from each other, and
can be worn together or separate.
The cardinal shape is revised in some of
the handsomest cloaks, with the addition
OF broad, loose flap at the back, trimmed
with fabulous lace, which also forms bor-
der to the bottom of the garment. .rs
Quite change has been effected this
season by the use of heavy ribbed silk upon
cloth and velvet coaks, as trimming The
effect is exceedingly good infinitely better
than fiimsey fringe and coarse gimp upon
such heavy and costly materials. Reoers
and cuffs, both of cloth and velvet cloaks
nrn fo vx-it Gill
edged with narrow double quilting of the
saline: this constitutes all the trimming
with the exception of buttons. .i.f -
The mantle cloak can be obtained in
various materials-velvet, cloth and Scotch
plaid, but is generally made to complete
suits, and in colder weather require wrap
OF some kind over it, unless made of very
thick material. 1t is of the round mantle
shape. drawn at the back with belt and
sash bow, and forms sleeves which are some
thing cut up and trimmed so as to form
model, something like an Hungarian.
For wraps, besides the waterproof, which
are more comfortable and protective than
ever before, there are Scotch circulars, trim
med with fringe, containing the colors of
the plaid and Holland plaids or scarf, ar
ranged as hood at the back, and generally
with corner thrown over the left shoulder.
Opera sacks and loose or neglige style gen.
orally, are made of soft white velvet plush
or heavy clesh, or of white Astrachan fur
heavily fringed with goats hair; the latter
are worn with muff to match. and arc very
fashionable for matinees, day receptions,
concert and other dressy, but not 'full dress
purposes.
For opera wear there is very pretty new
Russian bdchelik made in white velvet clesh,
which has a hood, crosses in front, ana is
carried to the back, and rounded tabs to
the sides, forming an ornament to plain
dress. 1t is cut out with points upon the
edge, and bound with blue or scarlet satin.
Nine. Demorest has the pattern of this and
many other Partisan novelties, including the
'.MetterniclI" mantle, so that ladies can get
them for trifie and make them up out of
their own materials.
NEW WINTER FURs.
The popular styles this season, apart from
mink, which always leads, arc black or
white Astraclan. The Astlacllan. friuged
with goats hair, with muff to match. con-
slitute the most useful and economical set
of furs which have been seen for a long time,
because with such a set no other cloak is
needed.
The white Astrachan cloaks, as | have re-
marked before, are fashionable for matinee
and concert purposes. The black Astrach
an forms most distinguished street gar
nent, hut should always be worn with
muff to match. There are also collars bor-
dered with deep fringe which, with the
muff, constitutes handsome and inexpen-
SIyn spt Nxhf, al oil l.
An ordinary cloak, with muf, costs fifty
dollars collar, with muff, in black or
white Astrachan cost fifteen or twenty dol
lars. ..N Tr. t
There are, however, complete sets this
season finer than any ever displayed before,
the surface of which has the appearance of
satin mOire. At first sight one would think
that the fur had been pressed by art and
machinery into these beautiful designs; but,
in reality, it is the natural appearance of
very young or still-born animal, and the
garments are, therefore, considered very
choice and very rare - -
Mink is reduced in price from former sea-
sons, and a very good set Can now be OBJ
tanned at from forty to fifty dollars.
Ermine is, as usual, regarded as the dress
fur. Childrens sets are composed either of
ermine, chinchila or squirrel fur. Chin
chilla, is the softest and prettiest for very
little girls. The sets consist of straight col
lar and pocket muff ornamcnted with the
head of tile animal
There are also sets of Astrachan, consist
ing OF cape, collar and mutf, the price of
which is twelve dollars.
oENAMENTAL NoTIIINGs.
Rich chenille fringes and soft, light white
feather tringes are used for trimming even
ing and reception dresses by ladies who are
tired of lace and satin decorations; white
feather fringe over white satin mauvo silk
or blue "glacier'' satin.
White Alpaca may be trimmed with rich
white chenille fringe and white moss "a
sort of silvery velvet plush) heading. '.t
Black fans with over-tips and gold mount
ings are the latest Partisan styles
Very recent French novelties consist of
portmonnaics, bracelets chatllaines, and
even earrings, ornamentcd with medallion
into which minute watch, a perfect time
keeper, is introduced.
With black silk toilettes, or red silk trim
med with black lace, gold jewery, is worn
of deep co.or which is called the Abbys-
sinian gold. The designs are hoops and
rings, or beads or horseshoes, heavily firing
ed.
Little scarlet sailor jackets are the rage
now among young ladies. ~
Hats are more fashionable for street wear
than bonnets. The high crowned Tyrolean
hats are the favorite style, inlisht grey or
black felt or black straw bound with velvet
and trimmed with broad ribbed ribbon, a
plume of short feathers, which curls over
the front, and an immense jet or steel
buckle.
1t is fashionable to attach a long gauzc
veil of the color tn black and grey felt hats,
at the backs, and wear passed around the
neck and put through in knot on one side.
JENNIE JUNE.