The New York herald., 1869-04-18
TIE FASHIONS.


and it's Opposite.
It. is a mere verbal equirocation when we speak
Of spring fashions and summer fashions In TINS a'
tude No sooner has the ice king relaxed his grasp
on the streams, and clustering winter has roared
his last through his March trumpet, than
throughout the entire extent Of our parallei
Of latitude ronf Schenectady to Coney ISL
and from Saugertes to Egg Harbor, from
Weehawken to He'll Gate the same nush
OF genuine, unmistakable summer brightens earth
and sky ana outer garments THAT Is Of any remark
able heavy textule) become saperhuous and uncohi,
Portable. Fake Friday, for instance. AS we stood
beneath the majestic dome Of one OF our dry goods
palaces with glass above US, glass beneath u.s. glass
on every side of US, the heat was uncomfortable
and to some extent as disagreeable as certain old
law that was framed In 1889. Therefore, when la
dies discard those heavy materials which guarded
their tender frames from the blasts Of winter and
the breath of rude Boreas, they have no need OF
any state of spring probation in costume before
they emerge in the chrysalis toilets OF summer 1t
would require an encyclopedia, in comparison to
which that Of the Marseilles philosopher would be
pocket edition, to give full description Of the
rad styles and materials that go to deck the fe
male form this year. Here are few of them:-
A. I. Stewart & Co. have bewdering variety Of
everything. The present style Of dress, which
requires q double skirt, cut in more complex
forms than ever geometrican dreamed Of In
MS combinations, gives wide field to the
skill and inventive genius Of the manufacturers.
Taea stripes for the under dress Of every pattern,
and brilliant the rainbow ITSELF are worn under
any kind OF oversklrt and casaque that the Taste
OF the wearer may suggest The patterns Of ta1eta
poplins, with worsted stripes and satin facings, at
tlis establishment, are Kaleidoscope In their va
rety. Then the gace serge, in blue and gray,
,f I'M eat a
decided novelty. Goats' hair Of the lightest kind,
for summer wear, has made its appearance. This
material has previously been too heavy for the dog
days. but the new remarkable for their
kghtness and durability. In Lyons silks there are
Bome beautiful brocaded patterns. Not any Of those
pOlderous affairs OF half century ago, which were
as formidable as the armor OF crusade, but light
charming stuffs, in which the patterns would serve
SILK robe In particular looked perfectly daz-
xlng with the rich embroidery of flowers
aud trailing festO0ns which adorned the skirt
Checked silks OF small patterns and satins with
silver leaves thckly interspersed in the folds
displayed before u.s. One white satin robe which
figured at the Exposition, and which Eugene her.
SELF admired, was striking affair. 1t was covered
with velvet flowers the creation" OF which was
marvel OF patience and ingenuity: First the flowers
were stamped on the satin with such force as to
make the impression penetrate through the material
Into Into ' relief ' by hand. The effect T is exceedingly %
brilliant and disttngue. A black velvet robe
called the Patti had had ~ slk sllll embroidery which
trimming OF black lace. The Vatican silks are In
rainbow striped patterns and although they are in
however to light up beautifully at night. The Cham
berry gauZe has almost succeeded In completely
oasting grenadne fiom summer dresses, and is
found In hundred varieties. 1t WIN be all the rage
tins summer. PerichOe poplin, in silk and linen, Is
another novelty In dress material. There were
some very handsome suits on exhibition
the second floor Of this spacious establishment
One consisted Of lavender underdress, trimmed
with real lace and ruchng, ornaments on back. and
O bias nounce more than ten inches deep on the
SKIRT. Vatican overdress, with flowing instead
Of a coat sleeve, completed this costume. We do
not admire the Watteau style Of overdress it has
rather 0ld-fashioned look about It, Another SUIT of
royal blue silk, with black casaque. It was
trimmed with Chantilly lace and ruchinQs OF silk.
An imported suit was OF that beautiful hue called
.ashes OF roses," no other color being visible
the overdress was trimmed with punings OF
puif cafe au lait costume had three bias nounces
the underdress, with puing OF satin and little
ril at the top Ihe sleeves were pulled me and banded
trimmed with fringe OF chenille silk and was pufed
and banded at the side similar to the sleeve. In
black silk bore of the palm. After all there is
nothing that can match handsome black
across aero the S front Of the skirt with Tsps rare
elegance and formed the most beautiful figure
DRESS, was also very stylish. We also were shown
some rich specimens Ofiaprlcot, Barbe Beue, Bonnet
PonchOn and Stewart silks, all heavy, durable ma.
their richness.
Gloves have still very long wrists and from one to
nearly three hundred shades Of color in gloves
20 correspond with any possible style OF COS
tune. The lavOrite light cOl0rs from Tuscan
straw to the brightest margold, are to be found In
this collection. one very handsome style OF glove is
pain on the back, embroidered on the wrist and
OF salmon and cedar berry colors were exhibited.
One very singular custom with ladies s wearing un-
dressed kids for demitoiete. They soil those gloves
before wearing them often throwing them on the
ground and stamping on them for that purpose.
Their gloves for full dress must be fautless, the
slahtest speck being considered as damaging as II 1t
was the lady's reputation.
J.& G. Johnston, corner Of Broadway and Ninth
street, exhibited some OF the latest and rarest novel;
ties. One was the Mikado silk, beautiful material
IN all colors ohened striped chintz and plain. Some
and mad very elegant appearance. They were
specially designed for this house. We also saw an
assortment n Of IN, new ma,era na called ne Mecca cloth
sipss sps; ne hSd sa'dn more brilliant lusTe than
variety OF Chambery gauze, figured striped and
chened was on exhibition, In the dress goods de-
partment were lrish Lyons and goats hair poplins,
French Grape and Eugenies, among which were
fasias were IN plain and mixed colors for walk
any and 'dS Weion, 0e We known manaraciurers IN
Europe furnished the different kinda OF
saa saSs .ss %se In many fancy sHSa' ov. S s ma IA
stripes checks and chencs. The stripes were clear
aud distinct, drawn IN the most delicate manner on
white grounds, and we're In every color Some new
materials with novel designs and OF rich quality,
were exhibited in foulard silks. Rich broche aud
lace shawls depended from the shelves. There are
many new ana elegant patterns In this department.
The summer styles at Lord Il Taylor's In dress
materials are very extensive. There VIC saw
some grenadines, wthI satin stripes, and elm.
broidery OF every shade and pattern. IL
would seem as the manufacturers Of this
class OF goods were determined to make
o bold stand against Chambcry gauze which
threatens to drive 1t from the field. Some OF the
lv nna orE
oine had satin and woollen flowers Of very brilliant
and striking pattern. Plain silk grenadines Of all
shades are specially designed for travelling. The
Csc silks in silk and linen, and Grape poplin with
satin stripes are also very desirable for sum-
mcr wear As IL Is no longer fashionable for
ladies to wear cloaks except en- costume, there
were some very handsome materials In wool and