The weekly standard., 1869-09-22
FASHIONS.
FASHIONS FOR LADIES.
From Haf-per,s Bazaar. |

lfTOn ddIpers bdhdaI
Fall bonnets are decidedly larger than
those Of last season. They are high, tower
ing structures, in the Henri Quatre and
Louis Quinze styles, and once more begin to
resemble Bona ,fds bonnet The frame
fits the head like close cap, and worn very
far forward. A standing revers of velvet or
silk is turned up at the front and at the
back The space between these is filled by
a high Watteau puff, on which is looped a
mass of trimming, which seems to be held
in place by the upright revers. Narrow
ribbons tied under the chin hold the bonnet
securely.
Another style. of Quakcrish simplicity,
resembling an infants bonnet in shape, has
close-ftting band in front, and deep, flat
back, or crown, falling in two or three
curves below to fit over the couture of chate-
laine braids, with reference to which it was
evidently designed. The front frames the
face plainly, without ornament the back is
adorned with trailing feathers and vines
that hang among the low braids. This SIM
pie and elegant shape is admired in black
velvet, and will probably become the favor
lite bonnet for the promenade.
The two shapes are repeated, with slight
variations, in the specimen bonnet selected
from the best French houses. ...
MATERIALS.
The materials most used are plain velvet
royale or uncut velvet, and gros faille-a
corded silk heavier than gros grain. Satin
is little used for the bonnet proper, but is
abundant as trimming, in the way of tiny
foo r,l Of
Two or three shades of velvet and feathers
of the same prominent colors. are used on
the same bonnet, or else different materials
of the same that give the varied shaded ap-
pearance that will be feature in the win
ter's toilets. Uniformity of color is to be
| preserved, but several shades of the prevail
ing color will be combined to prevent mo-
notony. For instance, Lucifer velvet bon
net has torsades of darker ruby and feath-
ers of deepest maroon; an Havana brown,
| is edged with satin pipings of dark leaf
brown and sky-blue royale has plumes OF
dark Mexique and lapis. When contrasts
are used they are usually to relieve black by
a gay color, or to display the warm, rich
shades of red that are so largely imported
| this season.
The material is disposed of on the frame
in every way the fancy can devise-in flat
peats all turned one way, in flutings, box
| pleated ruches, careless forcades, plaits OF
three stands, shirred pufis, and corrugated
| folds In the style alluded to above, the
velvet covers the frame smoothly, leaving
the appearance of fullness to be given Ey
| ample trimming.
FEATHERS.
Beyond all other trimmings, feathers are
used, and especially ostrich feathers. On
evening and full dress bonnets the long white
plume of Navarro begins at the side, crosses
the entire bonnet and falls below behind.
The short Flizabethean feather, standing
high and prominent iu the centre of palmer
bonnets, takes the place of the aigrette OF
the summer. Two or three plumes of slight,
| ly different shades, are attached at the back
of other bonnets and permitted to wave over
the front Beside the variety of ostrich
tufts, are scarlet wings, few tiny birds,
slender shaded plumes, alternately blue and
green, white aigrettes in rosettcs of black
ostrich, and the eyes of peacock feathers.
FLOWERS.
Flowers are not seen in the profusion that
marked the summer, yet small spray is on
almost every bonnet-usually rose spray,
great full blown roses with petals apart, as
if loose and about to fall. There are i'm
mense pansies of purple and gold, and large
black marguerites with golden hearts. Guam
titles of leaves are made of new metallic
preparations representing all thevaried tints
of the forest, from the bright hues of the
maple to the sombre brown of dead leaves.
THE SCARF VEIL.
The scarf veil, Il conspicuous feature OF
the new bonneis, atfording an opportunity
for novel and lavish arrangement of lace-a
fact that delights the milliner's heart. For
handsome velvet bonnets the veil is scarf
of black dotted net bordered with real
thread lace. 1t is fastened on one side. falls
under the chin, is caught up at the other
side and mingled with the trimming in
extricable loops and knots, and is finally
pendant a yard long from the back. 1t is
then left hanging, or is draped over the bon
net and face, according to the wearcr's
fancy.
Scarfs of colored gauze Or grenadine,
draped in the most capricious manner, will
be greatly worn with round hats and plain
bonrets On many hats feather and this
scarf forms the entire trimming. A long
and abundant scarf, the full width of mate
rial, is permanently attached to the bonnets
in putfs across the top, and sometimes a kind
of bag is formed at the back for the low
braids of the coiffure, whence this scarf is
carried over the face to be fastened by a JET
pin on the left shoulder, or low down be,
| meath the arms.