New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1869-10-23
"SARTOR RESARTUS."

but has also constantly employed them since
to make all the more mystical his least
understood eXcogitations, we may De par
doned, seeing that we are long way out OF
Paradise and quite beyond fg-leaves, for
saying word of those integuments where
wIthal it will be or is now proper Tor the
"forked radisho to BIO vailed. Most OF us
have gazed with wondering eyes, and some
of us with unworthy envy, upon those rare
specimens of manly beauty which are depicted
in Fashion-Plates," and hung up to giorlfy
the window of the draper. How have we
felt that, if the Apollo Belyidere could
become breathing flesh, he would lose no
time in ordering his measure to be taken
and his trousers made with strict reference
to these delicate diagrams.
Even to the philosophical mind, there is some
thing worthy of the prOfoundest attention In
that thing of continual mutation which we call
Fashion. Shapes, and styles, and colors change,
but who directs, ordains, and arranges the
alteratiOns2 Not our excellent friend, the
tailor-there is a power behind the throne
which guides his ponderous shears. What
mighty mind, somewhere in the back-shOp of
the universe, evolves from the depth of its
looms, or the very last in the caudal continual
ton of the Jacket Think of the reverend
ing, still beginning succession of hats! To-Day
the stove pipe, yesterday the broad-brim, to-
morrow no brim at all! We live in sue
cession of continual antiquities. The money
less, who are unable TO adapt themselves to
the fluctuations of fashion, walk among us like
the old Greeks or Romans, and seem to demand
another Winklemann. If we encounter soil
tary swallow tail, it carries us back to the
dewy days of our youth, and awakens emotions
at once pathetic and ridiculous!
More wonderful, however, than all is the
pathetic submission of millions of men to the
fiat of the arbiter of elegance, emitted like
Delphian oracle from some interior shrine. If
one asks his manufacturer of clothes why he
now makes tight that which two months ago
may, not so much-nOt twoW-was loose, he
has nothing to tell you, but that such is Z" the
"mode.r But why who made it sol was it
by the will of the gods7 through some subtle
influence of the planets through some strange
agitation of the forces of natureP through some
reformation of religion9 through some dis
cOvery in anatomy, or physiology, or medical
practice9 Alas! he can only tell you that it Is
the mode, and you walk close buttoned or with
your bosom barred to the liberal breezes ac-
cOrdingly
Those readers of THE TRIBUNE who are men
may rest assured that "for balls, parties, re-
"ceptions, and the German, the usual suit of
"black broadcloth will continue to be en- regle
all reports to the contrary nOtlCith-
"standing;" for so declares one of the chief
ap1 fap ha from IN
controvert the dictum which dOoms our fellow
creatures to do the German in customary
"suits of solemn black"-only Gas Southey has
i) "red and green are prettier cOlors than all
"this mourning" Others, it would appear
have been of our prismatic tastes, for, reason
ing from the words which we have italicized
we are forced to conclude that efforts in
rainbow way have been made; that sham and
shallow oracles have endeavored to introduce
more brilliant novelties that, in fact, there
has been q conspiracy among the unenlightened
in favor of blue, white, yellow, and red. Per-
haps, however, we may still be varegated of
morning. Possibly the somber injunction
may not extend to the streets, in which bright
costume serves the purpose of warming the
vicinity like a bit of red in siver-gray pic
ture. " is odd that we should affect the same
shade Mt funeral and festival.
Various other matters of various importance
we observe to be solemnly promulgated. FrOck
coats "will have no side pockets" which will
be bad for the pocket-pickers. "Pantaloons
" will continue to be worn tight TO the knee"
which will not facilitate the crooking of "the
pregnant hinges" and may bring seif-respect
itself into fashion. 1.-THE evening vests" of
gentlemen, like the evening dresses of ladies,
"should be cut low'-with 1.-TWO buttons the
man careessly wearing three rendering himself
liable to Coventry. The shade of the noble
George Brummell will be agOnized to learn
that "white cravats have been given over ex-
"clusiyely to walters" The glores of starch
have departed. But, more important than all,
"boots and shoes will be made with round
." toes" We do not despair, should our days
be prolonged only to o moderate extent, of
seeing the toe brought mp to level with the
knee, 'as in the age of Henry the Eighth, and
tastefully connected with the girdle by silver
chain.
Upon the whole, however, we do not find
ourselves too well satisfied with the divinity
who presdes over the clothes of mankind. II is
rather n many minded oracle than otherwise,
and n little too miscellaneous in its directions
" Is no true artist, for it repeats itself 1t in
vents and prescribes in circle. Its vagares
in respect of hats are bewildering. There was
a day, bright and glorious day, when it was
fondly thought that the monumental stove-pipe
hat had been sent to the receptacle of things
lost on earth, and great was the rejoicing
among the sore headed and sensible. But it is
back again in full proportions, this time with
- bell-crown, medium brim, with round curls
" and rather wide bands like footmans OF
. sholdy sOashman's As We sonsileg al these