, 1869-07-09
The Gentlemen Of the season.


bizarre are paSse this season, having sadly
degenerated within the past few months 10
competition with the unbecoming blank Of
the Lord Stanley scarf, tie most stiff and
ungraceful Of inventions possible, and to be
tabOoed this summer. Scarf pins of odd
device, as jockey caps, medallions, bulls
eyes. and, particularly, canoes, are in the
height of the mode, aud will be for the COM
ing summer. The larger and gaudier, the
more stylish and the same may be said of
sleeve studs, in which the mania for second
ary pastes has subsided-oddilies in oyxdized
silver or gold bearing being most sought.
A return to the open scarf may be predicted /;
cOlOrs worn will be rather gaudy than deli
cate-striped patterns having the preference.
To this may be added the scarf pin-heads
of animals having preference in the way OF
device when the metal is worked without
gems, and canoes when the gem is affected
and the outfit is complete in this respect
Spirals are not as popular as formerly, exc
cept for full dress, when real gems take the
lead. Diamonds, of course, are always in Or
der. Next to them stand garnets, next ans
etbysis, aud next the plain gold knob. De,
vices are not in order, and button studs are
odious, or so voted. The mania for bugs,
flies and other geological fantasies has sub.
sided.
Lord Stanley, Dickens, and the plain
bloud will hold supremacy in the patterns of
the collar: and fancy muslins are to have a
greater run than even last summer.
Pantaloons are made to be small in the
leg, but to spring we'll over the foot. Dress
vests are to be cut lower in the front than
last season, and single breasted, with an in
side collar of silk in some delicate shade of
blue, lavender, or red. For other purposes
they may be either single or double breasted,
to conform to the style of the coat with
which they are worn. Brown, olive, blue,
or green tiuts in various patterns will be most
fashionable for walking or business suits.
For half dress, brown, blue, and dahlia are
to be the popular cclors. For spring over
coats the extreme of the style will be the
surtout-the sack, cut single breasted, with
Ay-front, and shape to the back, maintaining
tho supremacy. Dress coats are to be Of
medium length, with the variation Of very
| long and rather wide rolls at the lappels.
The leading materials for suiting will be
melton and that very popular article Of Scot
t;sh wool which came in last fall to a consid-
cradle extent. Stripes, as for several sea-
sons, will have The preference for pautalOOns
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PIaids are always execrable, and ought nev-
er to De popular For visiting suits panta-
looms of light colors will continue to be in
the style; while pique, granite, and diagOi
nal coatings will hold their places for coats
and vests. London padded ducks arescOm'
ing 10.
The effort Just now is for the introduction
of the blue dress.coat, with metal buttons,
into q fashionable society, which revives a
fashion passe since 1925. Gilt buttons we're
first made at Bennington, and were at first
| yery small. This was about 1850. During
the latter decade of the last century huge
gilt buttons were popular, and ornamental
devices of various patterns, coat OF arms,
crests, and the like, were disposed in doub-
lie row on gentleman's front. 1t was about
! 1926 that covered buttons were hrst intro
duced, and as early as 1910 gilt buttons were
out of use entirely.
Prince Albert has attempted to revive the
mania for tinsel in England once since then,
but the attempt proved very unpopular.
Webster's example, on this side of the At
lautic, is in favor of the fashion but even
with these ilustrious examples to back it,
the success Of the ugly experiment is more
than doubtful.
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