New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1869-11-27

States.
At 10 o'clock we arrived at the village Of Santa Anna
Acatlan. where we breakfasted at Mexican fonda or
hotel the first had visited in Mexico Our table was
set corridor opening ion the square area In inc
center Of the establishment and adjoining the Kitchen
Everything came upon the table in excellent order clean
and well cooked It is singular fact that In Mexico one
never sees badly cooked dish. Such thing as JOINT
Of meat coming upon the table half raw is Whoy un-
known here There many people who adhere W INC
belief that when modern improved" cooNhg-Sto'es
came into se in the United States and the old fashioned
bakeoyens disappeared good cookery disappeared Win
them and am at length inclined TO admit that they are
right These Mexioans who have only earthern ovens
and stoves utterly unlike thing ever seen In our
country and not single iron dish all being OF the gh
glazed brown earthern OF the country contrye to
cook twenty times great variety OF dishes as we are
able to compound and what is more, cook them all to
perfection On the whole, don't think we know any
thing about cooking in the United States.
The charges at these Mexican "fondas are quite rea
sonabe; say 12 cents to Is cents, at the outside for
square meal" and lodgings such as they are, at NOM
na They do not usually furnish beds the travellers
carrying blankets full beds with them and the beds
are unlikely be little too much crowded for COM
fort when they are furnished is better to carry your
own sleeping outfit with you.
From the hill above Santa Anna Acatlan we had q
no view Of the Hacienda del Plan, the largest
and finest sugar In the State OF Jasco The house
stands upon hill overlooking the Laguna de Zacoaco
and surrounded by the works and other build
ings, with vast fields OF sugarcane, now twothirds
grown-t requires from year to IL months to come
to full maturity-in all directions. The house Is Ike
great square castle In appearance, with columns and
verandah all around, and looks like fit place for the
residence OF prince. From this estate large part OF
the great State OF JaseO which has 1000 Inhabitants
or more than any other Mexico derives s supply OF
sugar and its products sent far north as the
Rio Grande. 1t belongs to Senior Ramos, one OF the
weahiest land owners in Mexico. The grand aceqrtd,
miles In length and OF solid masonry through which the
carried for irrgatng this estate cost In Itself
colossal fortune, and the sugar mills and other improve
ments have required outlay OF million dollars
at least As is at little distance from our road we
did not visit it. After crossing Santa Anna Acatan
We passed through better cultivated coun'
try for some miles, and then entered
pass through the mountains to the north'eastward
which led us into the Valley OF Guadaldara. Passing
through one Indian village. we saw number OF
men and women kneeing in groups by the roadside and
looking mplorngly at the carriage, but they did not
speak or hold out their hands like beggars and
unable to form any idea OF their object They remained
kneeing and regarding in silence long re-
manned In sight
THE TRANSFERS OF MEXICO AND THEIR sTInULASTs.
Our road continues be fearfuly cut up and heavy
from the recent rains and progress Is slow We are
ried on mostly with heavy wagons and heavier oxoarts
with enormous wheels OF wood with wooden axles and
no feloes the whole middle Of the wheel being filed
with a solid block Of heavy wood The oxen are yoked
by the head instead Of the neck and driven half dozen
yokes a single cart, like mules before wagon Tho
wives and often the children, OF the cardryers accom-
papy them their long journeys from city TO city, and
one OF their camps by the roadside little village in
itself poor people OF the villages along the route
live TO considerable extent by supplying these team
sers and other travellers with articles OF food cheese
fruit cigarettes, matches. and ardent sprits bottle
OF the Aery liquid distilled from the mescal plant other
wise called the American aloe" or century plant,
which blossoms in this latitude once year.
instead OF once in hundred, as Is com
monty believed at the North-caled "mescai,"
or "tekeia lis sold at the little wayside stands for
81 cents aud It will produce much drunkenness
barrel OF North American whisky took one drink OF IT,
under the suppOson that IL Gnnisec some other
light hauor swallowing possibly about ounce. drug
gsps measure before smeled the burning flesh a. the
lightning descended my throat AS sat down the glass
my head began 20 In size rapidly that saw
at once that unless got outside immediately the door
would be too small 70 admit OF my passing through ~
SEEING my hat which appeared have become Of about
the size Of ordinary umbrella turned IL up edgewise
and succeeded by tight squeeze IN passing through the
door then appeared funnel shaped aud re-
| member odd fancy that was TO resemble the man
who into the big and out the little end OF the
horn" CurOusly enough my legs decreased IN size as
my head enlarged and my last recollection OF the AFFAIR
Is that my person resemDed sugar hogshead waking
of two straws body had none No more feked for
|
clear, cOlores Misunderstanding concentrated lightning
with apparent impunity; but single bottle OF u VIII
rebellion among an entire regiment OF soldiers
and very likely result IN Pronwieldmei0 on the spot
Nevertheless the drivers. like the muleeers. are
quiet, webehaved and generally honest and truswor-
thy class Of men, quite equal in these particulars 20 any
class OF IN the same walks OF life IN any country.
GUADALAJARA.
When We were in the pass through the hills between
the Valleys OF Zacoalco and Guadaaara one team went
down in mudholo OF unusual depth and enormity. and
stayed there for nearly before could DO eXtr
Gated When at last wo passed rolling and but
sparsey grassed and wooded plains resembling those OF
Southern California in appearance. with numerous vii
lagos each with great house and church.
and upon the edge OF the table land overlooking
the proud City OF Guadaajara the sun just going
down the and the full round moon coming above
the eastern horizon. What glorious scene! The city
whe-waled and red roofed with s churches.
and immense and magnificent Cathedral overlapping all.
stood grandy beautiful In the double lght-a sight
10 look upon aud admire, and e1ult over In memory
henceforth through all our liyes AT little town three
or miles outside the walls OF Guadaajara met
line OF light carriages with escort OF about 100 citizens
spendidly mounted, on horseback with the Municipal
Council and the Secretary OF Gov Cuervo. and others,
coming TO offer the hospitates OF the city, and a
hearty welcome 10 the capital OF Jalsco Entering
| the carriages, were driven rapidly toward tho
CITY, the military escort, civil police uniform. and
mounted citizens forming magnificent cavacade nearly
half mile IN length galoping on either side As we
neared the walls tho roadside lined with private
rages filled with the beauty and fashion OF the city, and
when passed through the barrier and dashed down
narrow wellpaved streets, the sidewalks lined
and every window and hOusetop occupied. Beautiful
women waved their handkerchief and gave smiling
| welcome all sides. All GuaudlJara seemed 10 De
abroad In the COOL bright evening. all pleased, all happy
and all anxious 10 welcome the strangers from the North
We we're driven directly 10 house In elegance OF ap
ponment the counterpart OF that OF Senior Huarto at
Colima. but much rander scale. and as soon IA we
IN DOORS the keys were presented To Mr. Seward
whole establishment placed at his disposal he
told TO consider IL his and each member OF the
party requested TO order what he desired from drink OF
"a carriage during stay with the exception
OF the servants the party were the sole occupants or the
entire premises, and We most enphatioally "at
| home" for the week Gov Cuervo with much consdera.
tOn word that had Travelled far and must
be very weary he would postpone his call until morning
| Dinner over I wandered alone out INTO the
| streets. visited the grand plaza, and saw the
people of CITY, cid and young rich and poor proud
and oWY sttng the seats beneath the orange trees