The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1869-06-26
INDIA.


jah,s Palnce--The Poppy Fieids-Opium--A
Ride Through the Countrywide Sacred City
of Benares-The Ghants-rhe Golden Tenn
ple-Brahmin Bulis-Hind0o Wership-The
Grand aosaue--view from the EIiuaret-
The Queens College--Odd Customs.
BENAREs. March 6, 1869.
Al four O'Clock in the morning we had the plea
sure OF leaving the Great Eastern Hotel in Calcutta.
The remembrance of its ordly steward OF It's worth
less servants and OF its greasy table win abide with
us until the fresh air OF the Himalayas restores an
injured digestion. The egress from Calcutta is
not easy--a drive OF some two miles to
the ticket office, where we stumbled over
BONE hundreds OF sleeping Hndoos, until we
finally reached the "Baboon and procured
tickets for the railway We then crossed the river
Hooghly on erryboat, and landed at the station OF
the East India Railway in the village of Kowrah.
The East India Railway cars are constructed for
first second and third class passengers The first
class coaches are very comfortable; the second class
moderate and the third class about such trans
port cattle IN on the other side OF the Atlantic The
iares are pr0portoned to the accommodation, and
those who have travelled in bullock carts in India
may be grateful TO the enterprise and llberality
which has constructed the East India Railway.
Inc distance to Delhi Ii continuous line managed
by one company, OF 1000 miles, The third class cars
were packed with natives, with their white turbans
shining over their black faces like Dolls Of cotton In
full bloom. The second class carriages carry only
natives OF the better class and such Europeans as
are employed In the country. The third class cars
are seldom crowded. and two persons may reas IN
ably have coach to themselves. We had everything
prepared for a start by the time that red Indian
sun was rising up over q grove OF palm trees-that
scorching sun which has changed the sons OF
Adam VINO have come under Its bnrning rays.
OF
green plain, well drained. villages OF mud and bain-
boo scattered Ia the distance, brings to Chandler
nagore, French settlement, on the banks OF the
. Hooghy-the only remaining remnant Of French
power in the North OF India, lingering here
memento OF the past than Tor any practical purpose
1t has been in the possession OF France since 1872
and was city OF 1000 brick houses when Calcutta
was village OF mud novels. BY clause in an old
treaty tile French receive 800 chests OF opium annu-
ally for abstaining from trade In that monopoly.
The French keep Governor here on salary VI 950o
per annum and maintain an army OF ifty sepoys.
Our lrst stopping place was Burdwan, the seat OF
a principally possessed by the Rajah Of Burdwan.
HIS domain Is seventythree miles in length by forty
miles in breadth, for the enjoyment Of which he
pays the British government in India land tax OF
$2,0O0,0O0 per annum Times have changed since
the honorable company Of merchants trading to
the East lndIesn petitoned the Raah OF Bur6wan
for the use OF a small piece OF land for wharf &C
Calcutta. Times have indeed changed and changed
for the better. The Rajah Of Burdwan lives In peace
and security, and his tenantry cultivate their 6elds
in peace and security, and reap the reward OF their
Industry. 1t Is true that land tax OF 81, 600, 900
per annum on patrlmonal estate older
than the British government seems rather
heavy; but peace and security are valuable,
and government Which guarantees them is worthy
OF support. His palace Is about mile from the sta
tion and is Handsomely fitted up In European style.
The residence Is built upon the margin OF noble
bank, surrounded with beautiful shady wallis and
adorned with great variety Of towering shrubs
and plants An expensive menagerie Is kept up in
the garden at the private expense OF tue proprietor
lsay $4,000 per month, United states COIN.
Among other objects OF curiosity at Burdwan is
the celebrated tank in which the Thugs disposed or
their victims, as graphically described In the IVAN
dering Jew.n We spent q very pleasant sabbath
wandering about the highly ornaInented grounds vi
the Ralah OF Burdwan, and, having nothing more
70 see In this region, TOOK the road again Tor the
The country passed through seemed nat and
marshy, relieved only In the distance by ciumps Of
Trees. An occasional field OF peoples in bloom ex-
planned the mystery OF now tins land can pay such
Dnerous taxes. This innocent-looking dover plays
nconsiderabe part IN the history OF TWO nations.
The East Indians under license from the govern
ment gather this innocent-looEng flower aud Inant-
facture 1t into opium, the entire control Of which
the government claims as monopoly. lne opium
Is sent to Cnlna and not only extracts the life and
energy Of John Chinaman, but extracts all the sur
plus silver out OF the Chinese empire. AS have
been engaged in making SILVER bars In former
lays ana found but few OF them remained
Ia the hands OF the miner, it created natural curl
Oslty 10 follow them up ana nnu their ultimate rest
ing place. IL is certain that they come to China 10
pay Tor aud silk, for produce anything
else current with the Chinese merchants; puE tie
restless bars do not remain Ill China; tho wees or
the Chnaman are stronger than his avalce, anu the
precious metal Is parted win FOR the soothing drug
which sinks all Chinese troubles into oblivion The
precious bars are traced into india ana In those
impenetraDlo iungles the track ~ lost. PERHAPS
they are used TO bay the expenses OF the British
government III India end To enrich adventurous
young Engi5hmen who come to this III Dorado Ia
search OF fortune. II IL the most expensive govern
ment III the world. The salaries OF officers and the
general scale Of wages Is greater than any other
country on the earth.
lhe viceroy receives. $4,000 per month aud an
establishment furnished. All other officers are
PAID and furnished on the same liberal scale. butwe
cannot nger AMID the soporiho Influences Of TIE pop
pies nor indulge vain regrets ABOUT the destination VI
the silver BAR The tram Il speeding on OF the rate OF
about twenty-five miles per hour; not last, but lust
slow enough to see the country AT flfs-foar miles
from Calcutta we reached the station OF Benares-
the holy city OF Benares-which by reason or some
subtle and mysterious charm has linked Itself VITA
every century OF ITS existence. For the
sanctty OF Its Inhabitants, OF IT'S temples
aud OF the very air that is breathed
Benares has been famous Tor a thousand years. The
waters OF the sacred Ganges wash its walls ana
OF every SIM From the remotest parts OF India tue
faithful come in droves to wash away their sins at
this holy place ON the sacred river FOR thousands OF
miles over the burning sands OF India the devotee
works or begs his way for the chance to battle his
body In the stream which washes away all sin before
It rests finally iIs waters. The railway station is
on the opposite side Of the river from the city, ana
In crossing the Ganges bridge OF boats the first
view OF the city Is obtained. The Gauges here IL
about COO yards VIDE and nfty feet deep, but rises
fifty feet IN the rains and spreads about half
q mile wide The city extends some three
miles along the bank OF the river, with an
average depth Of mile. The most noticeable Tea
ture Is the gnauts or landing on the rivers bank.
These are stone stairways extending almost along
the entire 'front.' OF the CITY, and are constructed az
great expense for the purpose OF allowing the faith
lul an opportunity OF bathing IN the sacred stream
Above these phAuts rise tue temples and palaces OF
built OF stone aud handsomely ornamented. In
former days almost every lIindoo prince erected
baace at Benares which he visited periodically for
Inc purpose of purgng his sins in the sacred waters
of the Ganges and for offering sacrifices In the tenn
pes OF the Hndoo gods. city front OF three mites,
with these stone starways reaching from low 10
high water marx surmounted by palaces temples,
mosques ana mnarets presented very different
appearance from anything that may be seen else
where.