The Republican journal., 1869-12-23
WINTER IN THE BAHAMAS.
From the New York Tribune.

and freight tor Nassau, New Providence and
Havana. A small party Of inyalils seeking
mildcr climate watching the spires and
shores of New York as they gradually faded
away. The neXtnig ght, as the round red orb
dipped into the burning waves, and the pul-
pie and gold had melted into leaden and dull
gray, a small twinkle on the horizon proclaim
ed the presence Of Hatteras light, that warning
OF treacherous and storm-beaten sand coast,
with lines OF shoals and tumbling breakers
theterror OF many a tall ship and gallant crew.
For AZ hours the vessel breasted smooth seN|
which became bluer and clearer under a
cloudless sky and q sensibly warmer atmos-
phere, TIL, on the fourth morning, we sight
ed the hole in the wall at Abaco, the most
northern of the Bahama Islands From the
bare cliff upon which the lighthouse stands
runs out a dark huttress, some quarter of a
mile long, in the center of which yawning
cavity has been worn by the friction of the
ceaseless waters, which pour throught the strait
between this island and that of Eleuthera,
distant about 40 miles to the southeast, into
the Atlantic. The Gulf Stream passes inside
Of Abaco, where a stretch of 70 miles divides
this group from the coast Of Florida
An easy run OF 4S miles from Abaco brought
us to the bar of the harbor of Nassau, over
which the tall cocoa-tees and Madeira ma
hoganv waved on the low heights, which
were crowned by the Governors residence
and Fort Charlotte, an imposing pile which
commands the western entrance to the har-
Dor. Gaily- dressed and painted whale-boa
manned by negroes, swarmed around us.
The officer of the port, the Custom-IIouse
official, and the adjutant of the garrison. in
neat linen and tassels, courteously welcomed
US to what seemed a fairy isle On landing
at y stone staircase in u solid, level quay, the
with pleasant smooth green, to take oft the
glare of the sun, which is so strong as to
make necessary the use of white umbrellas,
lined with green, which we had the foresight
to bring with us. In the yard of the court
house stands gigantic cotton-tree, whose
limbs, each as big rs the largest tree in Cen
tral Park, spread over = wide Green with
bright waving leaves and clusters Of yellow
flowers just fading. The first impression is
charming. The happy character Of the nc
groes, there erect carriage, bearing on their
heads sheaves of Indian corn, baskets of gor-
gcous fruit, or trays Of bright crabs and lob
sters their glancng bright eyes and white
teeth, joined to the remarkably fine figures
and tall, straight limbs of these Bahamans,
form quite a contrast to the pale cheeks Of
most of the white inhabitants, particularly the
ladies, who adhere to the unhealthy habit Of
New York Of enveloping the whole head, hat
and all, i'll thick, brown gauze, impervious
to both light and air. Nassau enjoyed fe-
verish and fictitious prosperity during the
blockade-running Of the Southern rebellion
from the reaction of which She is now heavily
suffering. Then her waryes We're crowded
with merchandise, her harbor with tier upon
tier of steamers. Gold and cotton crammcd
her shores, while the countless hordeS of
strangers, who rushed to the precarous har-
vest, compelled the Legislature to build Il ho-
tel for their accommodation, there being no
available means from private enterprise
Fortunately they determined upon q durable
and handsome cdifice. An eminent New
York builder was directed to undertake it in
accordance with the eXigencieS of the elm
ate, and by its stone corridors and hallways,
with wide circling yerandahs, he has sccur-
ed the great desidcrata of strength, cleanli-
ness and thorough ventilation All the solids
are imported from New York There is
abundance of ice in the government stores,
at a very moderate pilcc, ana fruit, fish and
vegetables, of excellent quality, are abund-
ant. The charge was S} a day for adults.
From the cupola at the top OF the building,
the view over the harbor shipping, on The dis
tant islands on one hand, and the wooded
champaign and of the interior to the Baillon
hills on the other, is enchanting, and, We're
it not for the unavoidable duncts Of u trop-
zeal climate, life would be IN unalloyed bless
ing. Owing to the ceascless ascent OF the
heated air above the warm waters Of the
Gulf Stream, Il never-cnding current Of cold
er air from the Atlantic pours over Nassau to
supply the vacuum thus created. Unlike the
other West India Islands, where the sweter-
ing land bakes under the torr5d SUM- until the
cool evening sea breeze sets in, Nassau en-
A.
us to traverse the whole OF the Island even
during the heat of the midday sun The
rainy season was over; the tropical storms
of September and October had cooled the
air and refreshed the rich verdure by copious
rain-falls. Roses, jessamine, and clematis
bloomed luXurlantly I'll gardens, and fcstoon-
ed the Verandahs and roots of the isolated
villas overlooked by the lofty windows Of the
hotel, which stands tar above the town. The
roads, being all under Government control,
are wide and well macadamized. Gangs of
convicts are detailed for the service and from
the spacious prison, erected by New York
contractors, Just outside the town, we could
see them march out each morning under the
wardens and turnkcys. They seemed to 30
well cared for both in clothing and food and
did not look so Sullen and broken as in our
country, though from the island being small.
only 70 miles Dy 0, escape Is Almost lmpOSSl-
bic. They are nearly all colored.
Carriages being plenty and cheap, we ex-
plored the shore eastward along the BAY to
the old Spanish Fort Montagh, a white
washed block-housc, in charge of one artll-
cryman, at the narrow eastern entrance ofl
the harbor. Here u mere handful of English
from Charleston landed, and, frightening the
Spanish garrison of the town by reports of an
overwhelming expedition, induced the COM
mander to surrender it to the British Crown, !
to which it has now belonged for more than
two hundred years. Its protectorate is nearly |
the whole control being in |
the hands of the two Chambers Of the Lcgis-
lature, the Crown having a veto which is |
rarely exercised. The population is about
u 900, mostly engaged in the fruit trade, in
spongeS, and in looking out wrecks |
on the hundred islets, bays and reefs on the |
Greater and Lesser Banks, in the center Of |
which the island Of New Providence is placed |
Nassau being its capital. Thi. was the scene
also of the exploits of Blackboard, pirate,
whose character and treasures rival those of
our northern Capt. Kidd. Strange to say,
on inquiring of the sexton of the eastern par
ish of St. Matthew, he showed us a tombstone |
of one Pinkney, a companion Of Blackboard, !
who reformed his ways, and died in the odor
Of sanctty, full of years and respectfully. |
And an old man assured us that in his youth
he knew a woman, who described having. in