Delaware tribune. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1867-1877, 1869-02-18
Travel Notes in Europe.
No. 10.


PLEASANT GERMAN CITY.
FnASKroRT-oN-TiE-MA
January 18th, 1s69.J
On the 1th of January we sent off our trunks
by ''Grandc Vitessc'' to Berlin, retaining only
our portmanteaus for the journey thiher, ID
took sad farewell of the household in Boulevard
ST. Michel" The demonstrations of grief at our
parting warrant me in characterizing 1t as truly
tearriJe, tedrrifc. We kissed Madam and
Monster kissed us, and We almost required
waterprools and umbrellas as We passed out TO
the carriage! We drove off, at O'Clock, p. NJ.
amid the bon voyages" IF house and friends,
watched from the railway car the long lines of
lighted streets disappear one after another dashed
through the Notifications and into the darkness
beyond and realized that our six months sejour
in Paris was over, and we were once more on our
wandering way! Coffee at Nancy next morning,
and breakfast at Stratbourg where VIC remained
the rest of the day.
resist the temptation to repeat what wrote
you of the Cathedral on my first visit to Stras-
bourg or the many objects OF interest here is
the monument of Marshal Sake, erected by Louis
XIV, by the sculptor Pisalle, work of twenty
five years. 1t is Of white marble, and all the
figures Of life size The Marshal is represented
descending to the tomb, hatpr in hand. At his
right are covering an eagle, Il leopard and lion,
cmblcmatc of nations over whom lie had been
,;,,o-;ors .us,r;, E,rl,rd and EoIl,.d I'm
y, ~, ia. - ..,,,au'r,.. ,..a.
INT ieit nays Vi uncich. h"t'on'' u"Phies VI ""''
and France, in the person of a beautiful! woman.
mourninp his fate With onp hand she tries to
~, -, ,,'.. ,,s..,,.1 ,d iii, ,,,o
"fics' ''c "oN"iee VI 'no 'i"'sn"', "'iV Wv" 'ne
other she rcpcls the approach OF death, repre-
scnted by n skeleton in winding sheet opening
,,o ooa,n The Marsha, was hurled here rather
WV 'o N
than IN rarls, because nc was rrolcst"hI'
In Strasbourg is the iltic bronze statue of Gut
,enher,r ,nventorof p,ntinr. which was modelled
~, ,,.,,,,;.,,. ,,.os, t. ho.
py 'he eceo'a'e" D'."' p'.n.I7 p,N9' %
side him. and he extends IN one hand scroll,
with these words upon il .Let there be Light 7"
~, ,ho c,rr ,idos NJ tho nedestol arc fine has
w. sAe ~ ''N,, -.
relieis. On one, distinguished literary ana scen-
tilic men. On the second, advocates for Freedom,
and amoror thcsc Washington and franklin. On
aAN "7 ,,.,..,s.... IL az. r...,,
the third, fhilanthropy, ana on tnc iourth'
Religion.
Neyt morning carly we were on our way out of
France II was dmll and misty, but cleared before
we reached Heidelberg, and gave us lovely day
We walked up TO the Castle and spent three
ny,rs rxpioriry its cns,rns a,sd rec.sses. and
assure you it is place that gains rather than
loses its charms on second visit. And there is
so much to be said of its beauties, one hardly
knows where to begin. From the hills which
rise above Heidelberg there are magnificent views,
A glorious panorama, and as rich in associations
rs The natural beauties Of the landscape. Heidc-
berg has many places Of amusement and the
Germans seem to eninv life, under all
circumstances.
We took stroll through the Haupt S,rasse,
and added to our stock Of photographs beautiful
views of The castle and town After dinner we
took the 9. 80 train for Frankfort, arriving ut 10
o'clock. The carriages in waiting at the station
were very curious looking things, in shape like
cigar boyes. and the color of oldi,shioned stage
coaches We took one and were driven to
uollandischer Hof" On reachiug there, We
werc moi n little alarmed by n Charge of rarcons
from the hotel door, led by lie landlord. who.
ike brave commander. was wen il advance oi
lie mon We sow thc hnntl.ss,,ess Of resistance
and surrendered at discretion: were led to our
dungeons. our weapons tumhicllas) being borne
in triumnh before IL. while n reserve force closed
ia ,i,p ,he rrar fen dc i0ic' Of wax candles Was
fred over the victory. aud we. poor prisoners,
Inft IN console each oii,r as b,st we might.
Next dny spcnt several hours studying the
| ccocrnpby of ihe town. which is n rood. honcst
1noLinu German town. clean and curious. We
saw Prnssion soldiers in ihe streets. yery fine
lacking fellows they are. too-a great contrast To
,be ianl, lean French troops. / could moi belp
,hinkin', If those had seen were fair specimens
Of thc Whole il would seem easy to tel which
wonid come mi ,bcnd in the imnendlnp war.
WI ind tho weather cold and windy: n rreat
ebange from Paris. where the mercury was 51e.
and no ice had formed, except in the streets.
Sherlly before we left Paris there had been very
heavy rains. Sun coul,try'' and the river Seine
had risen some II or Ii feet Before that. the
iittic ,snmnihns hootsr that ply nm and down
| aInnc thn nnnis had some trouble in running on
| account of The low water. and now there is but
| just room for them to pass under the bridges.
Dr.S-'s friend Miss K-,acted as our escort
over tbe city-so full of historical recollecions
| ihnt everywhere Won aie reminded of the past.
We went first to the Stadcl Gallery, where we
saw some very fine pictures-Van Dyke, Durcr,
| IJolhcin 10 ieune. Rembrandt Rubens etc, etc.
| Also Ovcrbecks celebrated painting Of The
| Trumph of Religion in the Arts" Thence to
| the i Romer.n q yerv curious old building OF
most Interesting historical associations We first
| saw the Kaisersaal, where the old Emperors ol
Germany dined with the Electors, aid from the
balcony of which they showed themselves to tho
decorated with Frcsco paintings OF the Emperors
\ from Charlemnruc down. They were executed
| by the hest artists of Berlin, Dresden, Vienna
| and Munich. The Emperor Francis of Ausiria
| closes the lopg rank. These portraits give rone
idca If ihc changes in costume, ffom steel shirts
to velvet robes. We were shown other rooms
nsed bv tbe Emperors and their Senates
Next We went to the Dom or Cathedral, old
ns The days of Peter the Hermit. II was much
injured by fire In 1867, but is being very well re-
stored. Opposite the Cathedral we saw the houst
/ from Tho window of which Luther preached
when he was on his way to Worms. To coun
teract his influence, | suppose, there has been
gignnic cross erected right in front OF his efgy
which is placed in nook in the wall of the hous,
| After going to sec Dannecker's Statue of Ariadne
We went TO a restaurant and had Il real German din
ncr, sausages saur krout &c. Aiterwaid we Wis
| ited Gsethe's house, were shown the room wher,
he was born, where he wrote his "Go,z" ant
Wcrther,' the window from which he saw
"Grauchen! his autograph &c. In Frankfort
Goethe, modelled by Schwanthaler and cast il
| hronze He il represented holding in his rirh