The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1869-07-09
CITY 1NTELLIGENC NCE'
RIBBON g..

not %norv how the other half lives hrsand anu and
who enlGyd nf that provide bread and
butter for innumerabe n1ns processes that
give m 0oSe through with, the lne sk % ana s ngs
nnity that be employed Lo taS which mo direct
De ,s are made the fallures,ith disappolnIehI -
and the unwearyng diligence tnat are I hon "
oduco u oven so simple q thing as yard OF IlDOon
produce bn sNSm NJ that lady uses TO set Off her beauty
Innnid he appreciated for something more tnan lCs
,i o,fect m ali the nice echanical processes
artsuU nc ncessary for its manufacture were under
stood. and although within the lmlts OF slngle
aSnaner article 1t will be Impossible Tor US 10 give
neWsP neWsPaPPet aPPocrnton Of ali the minuti@ OF ribbon
ueaving we can still give our readers geieMIhl M ,i
Of the process by wfa no those is Brqheoored bands
mat are used for such an lnnumeraoie Naile'y VI
vsit Which we paid to the ribbon factory OF
werneT Itschner & Co, on Tioga street. was 1uli OF
interest, and we are lnd9pIea 10 tno 1 pyan
nation of the factory and clear explanation OF Ine
beautiful machinery that Is used tor ihakng riDoons
Tor about ten years in the business of importing rib
bons at No. 1888 Chestnut street lew years ago
tbev commenced the experiment of manufacturing
ribbons for themselves. Two hand-looms were set
nm In their store, and it was demonstrated that the
thinU would nav This determined them to go into
the business on a more extensive scale, and about
three wears ago Mr.. Itschner purchased piece OF
land near his residence at Tioga, ana nted up me
hrics harm which stood upon il a ribbon factory.
By a somewhat singular coincidence, tne Oarn,
which was large substantial brick building was orl
inaIIv'erected 6y Kenderton Smith during the
Sauttcaults excitement for the purpose o Dreedlng
skworms After that queer @ Du9pC pa Uus' si tta nr
thirty years it became again the scene OF slkmak-
ing operations; in manner somewhat dlneremt,
however, from what its builder intended The
building is large and airy and with very little alte-
ration il has been converted into most convenient
and well-arranged factory, at an expense OF ABOUT
The silk used is obtained in hanks from China and
Japan and the firm have now large invoice on the
Way from China via San Francisco and the Pacific
Railroad. About eight thousand pounds OF raw SILK
are used per annum 1t is mostly dyed in this city;
aoft ha
etc, cost about 81 per pound to dye and the dyeng
bin averages over $1,000 per month The SIX, before
formed in this country To show how fine the flores
OF the silk are we may state that the finest raw silk,
before 1t is twisted, has about twenty thousand
wards to the ounce. The operations of twisting,
Cleaning, picking out the knots and naws winding
npon the bobbins for the weaverS all very deli
cate and require well-trained and skilful fingers.
With such expensive article, 10 is OF the utmost
importance that there shall be as little waste as pos
sble, and one OF the greatest difficulties that the
manufacturers have to contend with is to train their
employees into an appreciation OF the value of the
material they are handling, and to educate that
fine OF touch which is essential in the manipu
lation Of the silk. The best workmen employed by
Messrs Itschner Co. are imported from Europe, but
they have also large number OF girls and boys
that have been educated in the factory. For year
or two the labor OF these hands a dead loss !;
but they now beginning to acquire the skill neces-
sary to do fine work. and the prospects are that
there will in the future be no difficulty about OBJ
tanning skilled labor. The wages of these operatives
averages $1,000 per week all the year round, and for
houses erected near the factory. Many women take
work home with them, and this is considered in
some respects great advantage, as the children
become accustomed to seeing the silk going through
The various processes, and from their earliest in
fancy they acquire an appreciation Of It's value and
The that is required in handling it, so that when
hey come to work in the factory they become prof.
lent sooner than perfectly green hands.
The factory contains in all seventy-fve looms
forty of which have the Jacquard attachment These
turn out about 10000 yards of ribbon per day. Mos
Of the looms are made in Switzerland, M as, indeed, i
beautiful piece of mechanism, upon which all thu
figured designs which appear on silks and ribbon
jacquard the inventor of this apparatus, was
straw hat manufacturer at Lyons. His attention wa
first directed to the subject Of mechanical invention
by seeing in a newspaper an offer Of a reward for
machine for making nets. He produced machine
but did not claim the reward. The circumstance be
came known to person in authority in Paris
jacquard was sent for, introduced to Napoleon, an
was employed to correct the defects of loom bt
longing to the State, on which large sums OF none
had been expended. jacquard said that he coul
lie was requested to do so, and improving upon
model OF VaucansoD, he produced the apparatus tht
bears his name. He returned to Lyons with pei
sion Of 1000 crowns, but his invention was We've
with much mistrust by the weavers and they a
tempted to suppress it by violent means. otht
countries, however, appreciated the invention an
brought 1t into successful operation, rivalling an
even SURPRISING the products OF the French looms
Which brought the Lyons weavers to their senses
The jacquard apparatus consequently soon got int
general use in the silk muslin, and woolen manu-
featuring districts of England and France
The jacquard apparatus is not loom, but an ap
pendage to one 1t is attached to the upper part 0
threads in the order and number required for tn
pattern for the passage OF the shuttle These thread
are raised by number OF wire hooks arranged /
rows These hooks are supported by bars, and tn
bars are supported by frame which Is alternatel
raised and lowered by the proper mechanism. II tn
bars are all raised at the same time, all the war
threads will be elevated; but If some of the hook
are pushed off OF the bars, while others allowe
TO remain on, such warp threads only will be raise
as are connected with the engaged hooks. To dis
engage the hooks from the bars, they attache
by loops In horizontal wires, which are kept in posi-
tOn by spiral springs contained in frame, and wit
the points OF the wires protruding from the opposit
Sde.
force they driven into the frame and th
hooks disengaged from the threads. When the pres
is removed the springs drive the wires forward
and restore the hooks to their position. The metho
OF driving back the wires is by means of a revolving
bar OF wood of four sides, each side being peirce
with holes corresponding in number and position
with the points OF the horizontal wires. One O
the sides OF this bar is brought up against the point
OF the wires alternately it revolves and If the side
OF the bar were alone opposed to the points, the
would simply enter the holes, and no effect would b.
produced; but If some OF the holes be stopped whil
others are left open, the wires which touch tn
stopped holes Will be driven back and the hooks dis
engaged, while those which enter the holes woul
remain undsturbed, and the warp threads ai
tached to their vertical wires would b
raised. This stoppage of some OF the holes in eac
face of the revolving bar is effected by covering
with card containing holes corresponding to thos
points of the wire come in contact with an unpe
forated part Of the card they are driven back bU
when the points enter the holes Of the card the wire
are not moved and consequently the hooks renal
in their bars. BY this contriVance the lntende
pattern is made out, Il the pattern Is complcate
Voying bar presents new card to the points OF q
wires at every quarter revolution, the holes in Il
cards being so arranged as TO raise in successiC
those threads which will make out the intende
pattern and IL is necessary that there shall be {
many cards as there are threads OF weft.
portrait OF jacquard woven in SILK by the Lyo
nege Weayers, representing him in his workshop su
rounded by his implements, and planning the co