The New York herald., 1868-02-09
THE EUROPEAN FASHIONS.



>~~~>S->~~-->>>~>.>~~~~>>
Confidential for Ladies.
Mvins already learned from the columns Of the
HERALD everything pertaining to American
fashions for February, our fair readers may prob
ably now feel disposed to peruse the following
fashionable jottings concerning their foreign
cousins in Paris and London. Should they fail to
become deeply interested in the subject relating
TO coors, cuts and styles it win be only because
they are SO far ahead Of the grands danes and
bellies xpon the other side Of the water in matters
of tastc and dress that they cannot admire that
whic& Is sent TO them labelled superb or
"bs0utifuPp when they themselves could return
NE compliment by sending to Europe far hand
ssmer. unique and moro exquisite specimens Of
every ms. ntionable article Of wearing apparel and
which, without exaggeratiun, they might endorse
- "swperlatively grand" We publish tho fol-
sowing chit-chat, not because of any extravsgant
or marvellous alterations in the modes since last
month, but for the simple reason that the most
infini' iessmai change or the slightest tendency
toward anything new in the way ofshapes, collars,
trim mings or material is regarded as important
and are always read with interest and svidity By
1hs ladies Of our beau monde.
To begin with them we have have an intimaticn
net af0at in Paris by some malevolent evil minded
persons that the fashion Of painting the face,
illuminating the complexion and dyeing the hair,
was to be given up with that of the beshaped
crsoline. This would have been bad, undoubtedly,
for lovers Of art; but the report has been
officially contradicted and pronounced 'tutterly
false" by an authorized fashionable journal
inlEngland. The journal in question processes
TO believe that there is nothing more lovely than
the harmonious touches Of red, white, black or
blue, by which at the present moment the fine
ladies IN that part Of tho world are touched up,
restored, beautifed and rendered ola copies Of
their former selyes-''more fresh and charming
than were their own youthful originals" The
foregoing, as matter Of course, applies only to
those on the other side of the Atlantic ().
There was consderable CONSERVATION in the
fashionable circles of Venice recently, caused by
the careless Indifference Of the young wife Of the
Duke Of Assta, son of the King of Italy. The
whole hubbub and commotion was just this:-She
was actually seen on the Place St. Mark, when
full fashion was assembled there to promenade,
leaning on the arm Of her husband with her dress
slightly raised, which thereby displayed to the
critical gaze Of the bon ton of Venice "a cheap
and commonplace white petticoat.n The
fashionable foreigners in the city at the
time OF this occurrence were dreadfully
shocked and indignant, and expressed themselves
as having but little hope Of the future of coun-
try where princess is so wanting in dignity as to
wear an inexpensive garment. With the Vene.
tians, however the Prince and his bride appear to
have made themselves wonderfully popular. There
~ no denying the fact that tastes differ.
Balls, banquets, music, drama and fetes Of all
kinds and sizes are now the rage from the Baltic
TO the Mediterranean. Short and comfortable
6AA In oil fJa hall a,xI x
fheir stead the long skirts, with trails heightened
still more, continue to discommode the dancers
and subject their owners to such petty annoyances
As rips, dirt and tears. Low neck dresses are now
cut much lower for evening wear, and to such an
extent was this being carried on in Rome that the
Holy Father, but very recently, was compelled to
preach q crusade against it, What effect his words
may have had upon the dark-eyed beauties Of his
Hook deponent saith not
In Paris there are quite Q number of eccentric
people oho sometimes do very curious things. As
An example Of this learn from very reliable
sources that the favorte amusement in that viva
cOus capital at the present time consists i'm cutting
the dresses and cloaks of ladies while walking
Apropos Of Paris will just mention that the last
dandy fashion there is to carry walking stick
with sword at one end and matches and candle
stick at the other. Doubtless our masculine and
feminine friends alike have enjoyed our theme up
to this point, especially the men; yet il these be-
whiskered bpeds have not done SO they can blame
nobody but themselves, for they should not have
dared to pry into secrets which did not concern
them. However, having promised this much by
way OF prologue and overture, we will now pro-
Ceed to exhibit the latest styles in the way Of
toilets, bonnets, paletots, &C.. and which, we
feel positive will prove tenfold interesting to
the ladies than anything contained in the preced-
ing paragraphs.
The general tendency to the straight in the modes
is beyond all question. There is also correspond
ing tendency to the fat in all trimmings. The
square formed style Of trimming is now brought
lower down upon the front of the dress while
skirts have an effect Of being cut away In fashion
are very novel, Flat bands, Of the material Of the
dress, are worn about the neck, and generally
connected with the sleeve by chemisette. They
form an odd kind Of grdle collar, and are much ad-
mred Short skirts are, any thing, little shorter,
and fur as trimming is much infavor. The rage for
sola Trimming ;,h a r. as great as ever and velvet
with colored silk, Ii in vogue for grdade toilette.
Cachemire, poplin and velveteen are much worn
in the house Bodices are worn just about the same
~ usual Anything but q round bodice would look
Too much like our grandmothers to be tolerated
Dowad ays.
Dress bodices are now made so that the shoul-
der straps are used to form sleeves, passing to
the waist, while q straight cut to the breast and
shoulders Of the bodice combine to produce the
Swissike effect after which il Is named This
dress 10 quite decoNefte ever, but appears OF
more retired character At the same time pre-
ducing depth and breadth OF bosom without that
extended effect which was the least satisfactory
result OF the shape OF evening dresses during the
past se ason.
There exists a sort Of compromise between the
short dress and the trained. In front the hem
just saves itself from the ground; behind it
touches the earth. This dress is worn with a
jacket en- suite with the robe, and both are
trimmed and cut in some harmonious way. Double
skirts not seen as much as heretofore and over
skirts now rarely looped up. Hens OF skirts
are nowtvery plain. The coat sleeve once more
prevails in full force, and hanging sleeves are
driven into obscurity. The sleeve, as general
thing, IN untrmmed; but 1t Ia permitted to apply
gimp or buttons where any little arrangement,
such as slitting, is made with the cuff; CORE
sponding trimming shonld be placed on the
shoulder.
Bonusts don't grow any larger. They just
rs small this winter as they were last summer.
Tins 10 probably owing TO the fact that chgnons
are carried quite as large as ever and very high
upon the head and generally plain. There exists
kndency TO drift the side hair into the mass Of