The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1868-12-01


for matrons and Young Girls-Som
-, Account OF the Holiday Gifts, &c.
fFRoA oUR FASHION CORRESPONDENT
NEW YORK, November 2S.-One grand resul
has been achieved by the manifold changes II
fashion which have taken place within the pas
few years; they have reduced the sum'total
scandal; they have given women something t.
talk about. Dress is now really study. 1t is
fine art. 1t requires an almost intuitive judg
ment and taste, combined with experience, his
torical knowledge and an artistic eye for effect
There were never SO many well dressed wo
men, and never 80 many horribly dressed wo
men, as now. There are sprites upon WHOM
the long straight cloak and respectable trisn
gular shawl always look hideously out OF place
that have b.ossomed into dainty beauty under
the new and picturesque regime; and there
are women Of alarming avoirdupois who ap-
peared majestic in handsome Paisiey or CASH
mere, who move about in fantastic little capes
and basques, Like aactsnt elephants in modern
baby's bib and thicker.
But fashion is not, hereafter, to have every
thing it's own way. There are signs Of rebel
lion in The atmosphere, J am glad to see the
nrosest Of I0men Of Stuttgardt, and wish it
rad come from the American women. There
are none who could 30 well afford to disregard
fashion. None who could so7easily and 30 we'll
create fashion for themselves; none for whom
this future, this opportunity for magnificent
DEVELOPMENT Of womanhood, they are rlsking
fnr a. oannier and the chance OF e1hlDlt!1g it;
and men IN their hearts secretly rejoice, for
thew want women as subjects, not az rivals,
4 and Eoald rather pay for their amusement than
fSr their mental and moral improvement.
SCOTCH COSTUMES.
The weather for the past two months has
been all that heart Of millirer or dressmaker
could desire for the exhibition OF new fall cos
tunes, and New York ladies, with their accus-
toned appreciation OF bright air and sunshine,
have not been slow to take advantage OF 1t.
Day after day, Broadway and Fifth Avenue
from Twentieth to Fortieth-streets, have pre-
se1ited an unbroken line Of fair pedestrians, In
all variety of vivid coloring and picturesque
design, which characterize the tall styles: inns
daily promenading interferes sadly with the
execution OF old-,ashioned domestic dutlesTlt
s consigns the sewing to the seamstress or the
paid operator on the sewing machine, and the
siI o'clock dinner to Bridget; butt preserves
in CITY women wonderful freshness and elias
ticity. and serves as an antldote to some OF the
evils caused by the late hours and unhealthy
diet. .,,
The Scotch costumes have been brilliant
feature of the promenade for the past TWO
moIths, It is the first time within my recol-
lection that the "Iartan" has acquired real
vogue, and it undoubtedly owes its success to
the new STYLES which have impaired to walking
costumes picturesque and graceful character.
The Scotch costume proper Is made OF the
McGregor plsid. and consists Of walking
skirt with a flounce Six inches deep, snors
upper skirt which forms panner behind, and
an apron in front, or is otherwise single and
looped up to form modification Of the pam
nier, round, high body, coat sleeves, puffed
at the top and ornamented with rosettes OF the
material, or made with pointed hood. aod Or
namented with tassels. The trimming con-
sists Of heavy bullion fringe made in the coiors
before mentioned. OF course, there are many
variations from the Legitimate programme.
Some Of the suits are trimmed with fringe,
and rosettes in one prominent color; others are
more istylishly ornamented with black velvet
stitched in, and round black velvet bows with
ends.
The Highland costumes is accompanied by
q long Scotch shawl folded lengthwise, ar
ranged with hood at the back, one corner
thrown over the left shoulder, and the folds
gathered mp into Scotch clasp.
Then there is the round tartan cloaks with
the "Colleen Bawn" capes, which are worn
with all sorts OF dresses, and tho clan plaid
dress, worn With waterproof cape clolks and
cloth pelisses, all of which constitute to con-
tribute to give c gay Scotch character to the
fall promensaing to'lettes.
FRENCH FoLLIE5.
Il is quite time that sensible women took
Hn1l oP fsonfn cuff N
vent Am erican stupidity from being grated on
French folly. Dressmakers and milliners flock
to Paris from thus country when all the world
Of Paris, like all the world Of New York, is at
the summer bathing places. Paris at con-
Enental watering place is proverbially eccsn--
tric, and we have the fantastic styles adopted
as the whim OF the moment brought back,
and announced as Legitimate French fsshion.
Thus for instance, skirts which had reached q
modest and moderate walking length have been
shortened several inches, and in some instances
hardly arrive at the top Of the boots. The
pannier and the "bsnd" also, which have
scarcely been seen Ill the streets OF Paris,
flourish in Broadway, where they were never
intended by the French inventors to more
than scare the fishes. The 'Watteau" cloak
is another evidence Of the Willingness 70 en-
dorse whatever comes along withou2 any re-
ference to it's fitness or adaptation TO cnan9e
Of season or circumstances. The Watteau
robe, never intended for q cloak at all, is o
long loose sacque TO which fullness Is given
BY laying large double box plait at the back
OF the neck, which is allowed to flow out in a
free and easy fashion. The garment is gen.
orally edged with box plated founce,
rounded at the sides, which are looped up
with rosettes and finished with sleeves made
tight to the elbow, and having one or more
box plated fullings below. Its proper use is
ss a morning robe, for which it is exceedingly
we'll adapted, or gored demi-trained skirt;
and although it is prettlest in thin material,
vet il can be used in cashmere, silk or ol.-wool
delaine, With very good effect. But Il has IN
unmistakable look OF deshabille and deml-
toilette, and the employment OF suoh design
for velvet cloaks and heavy walsns suits Is
one of those absurdities which deserve to be
punished by leaving the garments In me
hands of the dealers.
SENSIBLE CLOAK.
The fancy suits watch throug Broadway and
Fifth Avenue are undoubtedly protty and at
tractive, but they are little adapted for steady
service required by our long cold winters at tue
North and East, and the habits OF the hardy
pioneer women Of the West. There - very
good and comfortable style OF cloth cloak no e
well. It consists OF pelisse. or long basQulne
OF black or brown tricot cio5h, with three cape5.
the lower one only reaching ths line, or just
below the line Of the waist. A double ro" OF
heavy Hercules" braid appropriately and in
extensively trims this style Of cloak. the capes
recurring only one, and that somewhat narrow
in width.
The cloak is warm enough without furs,
although boa for the throat, and especially .
rauff. Is always welcome addition. Ii can
also be worn either with short or long dress.