The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1868-07-23
NIGHT RAMBLEs IN PARIs.
VI-Vbs Hauss, Cabsrsts, and OremsrIos
-C0aGlusiOAs


The Paris Municipality has prudent habit Of
eXtDguishug q cons iderHble uumber of the
street easlights at certain specified hours; aud
thus 1t was that whe n we Ieeutered the eily
after a sharp drive through Relley1lle aRd La
Courtille a little before 3 oclOCt The streets
were equally dark and deserted, save mat solt-
tary market carts OF one kind or another were
travelling tow wards those gigantic Hales Gen.
trales which open at the hour 1 have named.
BY the light of the gas-lamps we discern In
the vicinity hundre Is Ot carts drawn up IN tile.
Piles OF baskets of vegetables and sacks OF
potatoes enCuu Der the pavement, over which
rats a1e carecring in scores; groups OF sGrgents
de vile are nequen5, iOI tho opening OF the
Halles Is tns Paris thicfs opportunity and the
breakfast aiIer which hs Is q hungeTing depends
upon bis u-e OF H.. Every place Is occupied, on
The hundreds OF wooden benches running along
the curb, with men on the lookout for a Job,
while In an the darker angles OF the building
men are lying on the stone pavement almost IN
heaps You approach what appears TO be
p dark mound, and IN the DIM light
discovers TO be 2 mere mass OF
sleeping human beings They sleep thus " said
our new gudc-thg man who had aGcumpa-
MED us through the CarTeres de rbmertque--
"because, 1t they sleep smgly, or two or three
togetser, the dret sergcut-de-yille passing on
h,s rounds would arrest them; but he cannot
arrest thrty men, aud does not make the
attempt. lle pIcttnds not 20 see them'
A hthe tarth,r, on were carts laden with
poultry, and with ha-E Eets of eggs So heavy that
coupe Of men staggrr beneath them, with
baskets cUuttin re huge masses o butter covered
over with clean white cloths and smaller pats
wrapped round with green leaves. Many OItue
carriers WCarsheep-sh In coats spite OF The warmth
oil tie weather; DINERS wear peculiar shaped,
long great coats, made OF some s.rped rough
matCIal; all wear sab0t3, women carriers as
well as men, The threc-hOrse rail way
trucks laden with baskeJs Of fruit aud
dsh and other peri.EaOle goods which
The companies are bound to deliver
within specified time come rafting I'd. Carts,
too, COME diving IN from the sbaJtUirs ulled
with whole sheep and boil, CEs i'm portions, aud
ereiong The days food OF the larger part of
Paris is spread before ~. You NAV reckon
Cabbages ana lettuCes and watcrcresses by the
acre, auj all the DINER vegetables in season on
the same grand scale, AL is noise, confusion.
and hustle, and amidst the general din the clock
stnkSs lhIee Wnen al the many entrances to
/ the Halies are thrown cpen and the real busi-
ness OF the morning commences.
But other places besides the Halles open
AT three O'Clock this marDng. and it
is these We have come to sse--lhe caba-
rets, cafes, cremerlg5 iaiteres crowded
round tins spot. The moment The clock
strikes the hour The duOrs are thrown iuyitingly
open. The majority ale filled by a rush, as II
Werei the foremost rank, however. not being
composed OF people belonging 20 the market,
but rather to the scaudaous classes eager to
spend the Jew sous which, though insufficient
to have obtained them a bed, VIII yet procure
them 'gOutto' OF their tayOrite liquor. With
The drunken workman ~ Ia point OF honor to
spend his LAST sou before going to
bis days work; and as he
could moi get through all his money
overnight he sleeps aud lounges round the
HaIies, where the CaDdreCs open a gOOt Two
hours earlier than IN any other quarter OF Pars.
IL is always some burning liquor that Is called
FOR even though 1t be in the height of sumner,
'--edU 0e JeU under one or other OF its many
disguisGs, n COmDluy with our guide we sur
yeyed the insioes OF half q score Of these esta-
blishments, each Of whtCn has a physlOgnOmy
OF its own, some special reputation, or certain
eccenirtcites among lis own peculiar frequent.
ers IN mont OF massive ENC counter,
ana against the wal .here is commonly q
narrow wooden benc1. On which the tipplers
try to snatch their torty wink spite of the
shouts and Oaths with which the place resounds
--betWeen the rounds OF the police. at is
forbidden to sleep Ia these cabarets." ob erves
our guide; you may drink AS much as you
please in them, but, II yOu sleep, you run the
the nearest police post Some OF these Caba-
rets have small rooms in the ear devoted to
the use of haOitues, men Who drink for hours
together regu ariy every day. The close and
sitting atmosphere OF these little dens seems to
give the lie 10 science, by proving that people
can live without so much as mouthtul of
fresh air among dozen. The Gaze de IE,pc-
rance, in the Rue dcs InuOcents, adjoining the
Halles, allows its more favored guests to oTetre
10 the cellar when he hour OF closing arr lYeS e,
there 10 continue their druking-bOuts until the
hour for opening COIes round again. II is not,
however, regular Halles cate, but one with
shabby velvet cushions and numberlcss looking
glasses.
Our guide now took us to some cremeries in
the Rue de la Grande TruandCrie, where for
two or three sous you may have a peilt noir,
and sleep uDdisturbed for three hours. Tue
first we enter has red tile floor, very dirty
walls, and five dark marble tables, a. each of
which SIX or eight people can be acCOmmO 8ated.
The place has clock. OF course, to time the
slum mberers by, and hat pegs, in case they pre-
to take their sleep uncovered, Several lOayes,
about eight feet long, are ranged by the side
OF the counter for those who wish TO eat as we'll
! as drink. The petu nOir is composed
of small bowl of black coffee, three
lumps OF sugar, and a 26iU UeCTe of very weak
eau de Ule, which Is an "eXtra," and costs a
sou. Without the petlt Ueyre the cost is
two sous, but, should the gas be burning, the
charge is three sous. A number Of men are
n gulpmg down coffee, all seemingly the poorest
an Ong the poor. The proprietor consideration
keeps the shutters up, 10 render the room as
dark as possible tor hIs guests.
The Restaurant du Centre, MaisOn Chalyet, in
the same street, Is another OF these establish
ments. Here you can get such eXtravagapces
as meat at 81. per plate, a oes sert for from to
d sous, cdt6-Gu-taH at sous, and gloria at the
same figure; but the peat ROr IS its staple trade
The ceiling OF the room is extremely low, auC
altogether The aspect OF the place Is a shade
more miserable than the one we have JUS
! left. The company are of the same type
with the sole exception that most of those her,
! assembled are enjoying tn ir short black pipes
AT the Laitere de Normandie, in the Rue dc Ii
Petite IGuandene, instead of marble tables
there were wooden benches: and yet here w
found a more numerous company than az eIthe.
OF the other establishments.
On retUrnrg tOEaTds the Hallos, w
pass dozens OF open coltee-stalls
Is tnged with blue, aud the sun is
= converting the murky atmosphere around int
an lalmost golden one. The flowers and frul
/ give t0rsh the most delicious OdOrs, aud Capti