Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1868-10-22
PARTISAN DINING SALOONS.
Ihe EeOnomy Of the sxllI-PalI.
Iris Correspondence Of the London star.

4 Paris Correspondence of the London star.1 (
| Among the euriosities Of Paris life de-
cidedly are the small carts which from
five to six every morning call at the
back gates of embassies, palaces, minis
ters, restaurants, hotels and great houses
in general, to purchase the remains OF
the entrements. desserts and dinners In
general, left, not by the upper ten thou
sand only, but likewise by their servants,
and sold every morning by their cooks
to the enissaries Of q race Of costermon-
gers called erIequins,u whose stalls Rt
the "Halles are furnished forth by
these baked meats" which make their
debut at the tables of those who rule our
destinies. The carts are closed in, and
are recognizable by the sort of chimneys
in the top 70 admit of free circulation
OF air. The remains are thrown pell-
nell into the carts, and are paid for by
weight. 4 Z.
You may imagine the aspect presented
by the ola podrida when IL reaches the
arlequinH ~ stall. The first process is
the triAge Of scrting-a work of no small
difficulty when portions OF lobster . Ia
MayOnEaise besmeared with soup . Ia
Julienne have TO be extracted from the
remains Of fruit tart in which they are
embedded The most presentable NOR
sells are pared, cleaned (?) and arranged
on dish. This process taking place in
some remote corner far from human ken,
as naturally, It's mysteries would not at
tract customers. Strange to say, by
twelve o'clock these scraps0ff rich mems
plates are eagerly bought up by certain
class of poor who prefer the savory
flavor to more wholesome food. What
cannot be sufficiently pared and arranged
for human appetite is sold for the food Of
pet house dogs, italian grayhOunds, and
such like aristOcratic quadrupeds. The
bones, however, found in this detritus,
are carefully put aside and sold to the
manufacturers of concentrated meat es-
sence lozenges, and by them, after they
have boiled them down, sold to the
makers Of animal black, much in de-
msnd by house-painters, etc.
But to return to our friends the arle-
quins." This trade of buying up the re-
mains of our friends side-dishes and
second courses is by no means bad one
many of those who pursue il retire at the
end of q few years on four or i've hun
dred ayear. Pas mat The next branch /
Of this trade is the bakers en- Yieux, /
which reminds one of the sign which at
trscts many q true lover Of antiquities, |
f" Moribond de Meubles en- Vieux.u An |
cienG furniture, even though stained by
age and rust, we ali appreciate but an
cient bread, stained by ink and mould, |
we scarcely relish. Yet it is q remune- /
rative trade to collect the crusts thrown I
away by college-bOys, or dropped by 1
these careless youngsters in their play I
grounds, trampied on and linked OFT 1
times, but gathered by chiffonniers and /
sold to these secondhand bakers, and by I
them sorted. The cleanest Of these 4
soiled and uninviting crusts are dried in 4
an oven, raspeG, and then sold for the \
H croute au pot" which with soup all /
familiar with French cuisine are well
acquainted.
Furthermore, these choice bits Of old
bread are cut up into the three cornered
which, fried in butter, adorn the
fishes Of the vegetables, etc, we enjoy
1t our favOrite restaurant. But there yet
remains a mass of mud-stained, dust
'oiled scraps, which once were bread.
This Is worked up in a mortar, pulver-
zed, and sold as the chapelure blanche
n which our outlets are dressed, or, to
Use the technical term, pane and as
,hapelure bruno, which is sifted over the
mall hams called jsmbonneaux. There
Itill remains a dust which it has been
to work up. This is black
med iu the oven and reduced to an inn
1alpable black powder, mixed with
honey, to which is added few drops OF
and sold as an infalIible cure
or toothRche, for which ailment it is
aid to be quite as efficscious as anything
recommended by the fsculty.V