Democratic enquirer. [volume] (M'arthur, Vinton County, Ohio) 1867-1873, 1868-11-26


Correspondence Of the N. Y. Tribune.l
Tror1aU2ukN, Sept. THE past few
pays we have devoted to search among
the antiquities Of this vicinity. There was
trouble in the first place about getting
horses, the owner Of the cabatteria being
resolved To charge 50 apiece for distance
short of lsague-an extortion to which no
traveller will submit be his
plece in desert or crowd. That those
Who 90 among ruinsare ruinously charged,
sorts with the common expe-
rience of vigeros. We once re-
fused to hire horse because its owner a
few years ago went masked on the highway
and robbed his customers; but that was In
n notorious robber country. AS 1t turns
out San Juan seems good enough to be put
10 sleep, and the owner of the horses is |
respectable monopolist who has gone out
with whole drove Of sombrero heads to
provide for bull fight in honor OF the
forthcoming anniversary of the national in
dependence. Finding that there Is really
no need Of horses, we make the journey on
foot. The guide is weazened little man
who has q few silver buttons and coins on
his legs, wears slight semi-blue jacket,
old as o relic; upholds a big somorero,
and looks, with his hands in his pockets,
like dissipated young man, though he
is no doubt three-score. Humboldt notices
the same deception of appearance as re-
spectsSthe ages of Indians, their hair sell
dom turning gray except at very old
ACE. and their bronzed and hardy faces glv-
ing no accurate signs of advanced years.
The road to the pyramids leads us among
cacti magueys, and corn. In the patio OF
one of the neighboring rancherOs We are
permitted to see, in addition to some pieces
ofAztec masonry which have been con-
verted into the fabric of the house, the re-
mains of IN old frog idol, surmounting the
gate of an old ruined garden in which reta-
mas and fg-trees are growing be-
side ruined fountain. In the hut
of some kindly Indians we are treated to
a more enjoyable curiosity, q repast OF
tunas or cactus fruit, taken fresh from the
tree. The wonder of its vegetation, OF its
strange system of prickles and green slabs
and red-fruit bearing has not yet ceased to
me, and the juice and pulp Of the fruit,
delightful to u thirsty wayfarer, keep the
wonder fresh. Our onward way is among
a mass of volcanic stones and tezontle, the
debris of many ancient structures, and
other vestiges Of an ancient road. Tumuh
composed Of tezontle were also seen, and,
in q hollow adjacent to some cornfelds,
the openings of several caves of remote
origin. In path through the ruins we
pick up some fragments Of very antique
obsidian, and an old Aztec candlestlck
made of stone Shortly we have q full
view of the famous pyramids Of the Sur
and Moon.
These pyramids rise directly from thu
plain, presenting every linear sign of arti
fcial structure. Though now covered witt
many centuries growth of shrub, tree, ant
weed. their contouris unmistakable. Three
terraces or stories of the pyramids can b
easily seen. About to ascend the one for
merly dedicated to the Sun, the guild
showed us some ancient walls, OF which
there is nothing to be specially remem
bered save that they were lald bare by
party of ruin-workers aching under patron
age Of Maximilian. The hill is full of an
q cient rubble and underbrush, and Its thre
terraces were hscended after some little ia
tipue. We had small trouble in hndin
remains Of ancient soear-headB an
obsidian knives on our way up tn
steep. Reaching the top we 50
down by the cross which Christian zeal ha
erected on the very spot where Pagan yea
of an earlier date was in the solemn habi
of tearing out the hearts Of its victims.-
The view of the country round from thi
hight is full of freedom and charm! .Belol
is the wide valley sleeping in the sunshin
and full of cactus and peru trees, its wind
ing roads set off here and there by hig
and regular fences of organ cactus, tha
which nothing con seem more useful an
picturesque at the same time. San Jual
is half hidden by its expresses and popla
willows, but its high tower of San Francis
co is visible On one hand the locomotiv
train is Just visible coming by tho quie
i town of Otumba The church ofSan MAJ
tin the Bishop is in front. setagainst hill
higher and more ancient and sacred thal
the pyramids; and the valley o
plain round about us is girdled by th
shrines of saints and angels-Maria, Sc
bastian, Francis John the Evangelist, Lc
renzo, and the Virgin of the Candlestick-
though it is plain, likewise, that in respeC
to the faith the region is rather lopsided
there being more churches on one sid
than on the other. Some little villages OF
near remarkable for such odd names a
Pushla and Merquischo.y The pyramid il
self, its sides strewn with tezontle, Is cur
ously featured. Squat, thorny viznaga
r are growing here and there anon
the siones A few peru treei
with their red berries bird7beloyet
flourish on its hard surface, and near by
cactus in full fruit and scarcely less tha
twenty feet high, a common altitude. Th
guide points out to us some beautiful nov
ers which go by the names Of clothe
Ginger, fox-hyssop, cockseye, maravilk
the latter q wild convolyus, and man
others remarkable for medical virtues on
Indian names. The common red-blossol
of the trompetilla, here as on the roa
side, is still the most memorable How!
which greets travellers eye. TowaI
the bottom of the hill some vigorous pain
trees have taken root, offshoots from som
nalms not far OK wnarA. .sbon,
multitude of dogs are barking in test
mony Of the very noisy part which the
bear in all Mexican life.
All these details aid in general effect
scene which is TO be felt rather than d
scribed Anold Toltec king, looking frol
2 the top Of the pyramid of the sun on
multitude of his subjects below, migl
have felt proud and elated and when u
sight of earth and sky from this eminenf
might have made the bloodiest OF his pr
phets sad What, then, must have bee
the feeling Of the captive who, dragged
the tremendous altar-top. and seeir
around him al thelovcliness of nature, hs
hia heart wranahAd ont of his breast ,bV