New-York tribune., 1868-04-29

The nterlacements in tho weaving VI VHo th,s so leo
chaneS are such that they form two t0ueS o
tween witch is nteraced certain h,9nt oi .o VI
the ehane This hight exactly anu & d snn,y ne
arated I'm Two by the middle one IN ouer 10 supply Ino
velvet surface TO each piece which thus separated Is
then rolled upon roller as aS SsnscIy the most beauti
fu plushes for hats. executed IN s ma mn
This system is more particularly slted 10 the pam ar
tes wherein tbe dure without the intervention OF the
bageeS or small rings empio{e1u IL lh ~, manu- ~
neGesstates p certain hight, ana can De employed 10
manUfaeture aeonnees figured suls and very smooth
velvets. ., o,d ero ,,o,vo, hos ,,o.
only reached the extent Of weaving one piece at time
The operation effected by the insertion OF irons TO de-
terDine the boUc'es or loops WHICH reh oioSeo III Vno
work OF velvet rise.
The iron is Withdrawn. when certain number of 6onees
Vi ~ ON e contrary the object is to make velvet copt,
1t is by cutting at the top each OF these loops or
Thus. TO the ordinary functions OF weaving machines,
It necessary IN the weaving OF vevets 10 add comDna
tiops which place and withdraw bdgctes to form the
JfiSre which these bagees are placed and act as
knife plane to cut these same loops IN order 10 produce
These problems have been solved the most successful
manner by the looms at the Exposition.
1t need hardly be suggested that personal examna
ton OF the machines above mentioned would give lar
clearer idea Of their structure and mode Of operation
than could the most elaborate description. The same
may be said Of the machines hereinafter noticed.
sk In the P execution Of which Scotch Industry has long
exeeled we shall encounter some dlhcuity ana enoaL
looms now multiplied to marvellous extent, permitting
the frame to change spontaneously greater or less num-
this kind exhibited demonstrate the activity and
sty OF research in this direction, and also the energy
problems whose solution can lead TO utility and economy
not only in articles Of an ordinary character tna5 az
silks OF the richest devices and especially IN the most
beautiful articles ofLyons adapted as we'll Tor dresses as
for furniture.
THE WEAVING OF GRAND PACoNNEs.
worthy Of note that despite the increasing clear
silk thread these silks, so very rich nathe per
econ of their manufacture, are not sensby increased
in price -, e.. ..s. =. ,u, s,,,,o,-od
more tasto than now. Never have they, those Of
Tours, exhibited greater beauty and perfection .
the TaoonnIes or figured goods, neness and neaness
that seemed almost impossible till now, and Which de-
note superiority TO which French industry alone mas
There are also combinations am,res, and 'noirts, as
the OF tissues demonstrating that there no longer
exist difficulties in this direction.
1t sufficient to traverse the gallery OF French ma
chimes to be fully impressed with these views:
Ingenuity has been tasked In thousand dnerent ways
TO simplify the elements Of the Jacquard loom ana rem
der capable OF producing st extensive results
1t economy IN the Of the cards necesstated
or trous and OF the folds which separate them in such
manner make them contain more In given surface
by simple sheet OF paper further on there Is an nge-
nous combination which permits the same caro- 70 serve
and enables 1t also to econonse at least 90 per cent o
cards. .-..-.,
ecutiOn Of stitching due to the Introduction OF an addl
tonal organ into the frame to make tdconees e oaan
Blonde article in silk initiating lace is also exhb-
itad by both England and France This article made
tomaticay and which for years has displayed the most
elegant designs presents devices the most capricous
These results are attained by the combination OF the net
lace frame with the prncple OF the jacquard frame,
Until now manufacturers were content 20 vary the dc
signs and multiply the gures and hence single loom
OF this kind produced with considerable economy hund-
reds of 6andes at once But that was not sufficient The
industry OF Calais he center OF the Te and Blonde
trade OF France had Just created article essentially
different from ordinary lace or blonde IL obtained
by the nterlacement OF threads acting exclusively IN he
direction Of the ehdine in the tissues maHt TO which
we have alluded. A transversa thread OF tho tram
made part OF the tissue the physiognomy OF which, and
the mode of nterlacng being thus essentially modified
The notifications proceeding from additional cross
thread could be earned upon the rstdu from the Dot
new and vast field thus opens to the speciality Of
reticular tissues already rich fancy articles Per
aud TO other substance and ultimately give results
analogous those OF species OF gauze, which is pro
sowness, and at considerable cost 80
The article may probably serve as tissues for ett
ing -four and all kinds Of plaster substances -
The mechanical means by which these results arc
attained and many others INTO tho details OF when WE
and constantly increasing extent, Of cheap silks demon
strates gratifying progress in this direction.
SILK RIBBONS.
We have only spoken briefly OF ribbons from technical
point OF yew because this industry represented at
the Exhibition by but one oonithat for velvet sent by
Mr.. JOyOt juno .
part collectively by the manufacturers OF SAINT Etenne
Basle. Alsace. Prussia, and other countries 10, u.
Saint Eeune contains 10000 inhabitants, and with us
suburb gives employment to 2s22 persons Of which the
greater part are and girls. II has 1900 looms
1ssGrdng 70 of TG S gGa} francs M
100000 fvesxhs Of which disposed Of to the United
States, England, and to the city Of Paris. .
The Canton OF Basle with population OF ooooO l9haq m
ants has about G000 looms for the manufacture OF rD
bons in the City Of Basic alone. the manufacturers
many OF whom Of the first order employ from 800 TO
humber The United States take the largest quantity Of
these goods Then comes England, whose trade ~ Con
tncuta silk fabrics has greatly augmented since the last
treaty OF commerce with France.
II was at Guebwer in Asace that steam was frat en-
pOyed in the manufacture OF ribbons One see there
model ribbon factory, which employs COO persons and
contains 200 looms driven by steam engine OF 3Ohose
power.
DEPENDENCE or EUROPEAN SILK MANUFACTURERS UPON
THE EAST, AND IFS RECIPROCAL ADVANTAGES.
In view OF the vast capital invested in silk industry
and especially in silk manufactures by leading European
nations the great numbers Of their people employed
IN ITS prosecution may in the presence OF the crisis
the prevailing malady, pertneny ask what would have
been the fate Of the industry and the condition OF its en-
plOyes had not the extreme East been able 10 supply
them with material in quantities sufficient 10 meet
And What advantages have not the nations Of Asia de-
rived being thus brought into closer relations with
the more elevated and advanced nations OF western hu
Notwithstanding the relatively low price at which they
supply their silks, they could not quarter OF cen
tury since anticipated high price as they are
Nor ia this the only advantage resulting to these orien-
tai nations from this species OF traffic with the silk manu-
facurers Of Europe. 10 will teach them how 10 bring
9e PodGGts to greater RersS9R .Hc6 at hUe anS Sd be
stow upon them such an amount Of sSed d. labor as 70
with the excellence Of their nature.
..--.. RESUME AND CONCLUSION.
The manufacture Of silk already anayzed and as u
countries the most advanced In the art embraces
seven special branches Of industry, viz;
lst The rearing Of the sk-worms.
od The Mature or reelng OF the silk from the
cd. The hIOtong, or spinning Of the SILK thread
4th. The dyeing OF the silk.
9Th The preparation OF the silk threads Tor the looms
9th. The weaving Of silk goods
7th. The spinning Of waste silk.
These specaties although consequent and dependent
each upon the Others like links In chain, can neverthe
less be practced separately as the case now in some
countries.
We have demonstrated that OF these employments
present difficulties than Others TO countries which,
Jofta haya had ~