New-York tribune., 1868-01-17


ored plush five inches deep. cut out in large scaops
on the upper edge. The pockets were almost as
wide as the front breadths of the skirt on which
they were placed and well as the cuffs epauettes,
and scalloped band on the neck were of ceTse plush
wide sash bOrlered with plush was knOtted grace
fully behind and relieved the long lines of the sweep
ing train. Some lovely little breakfast jackets were
shown, one of white military cloth, with coat back
scaOped, and floss tassels every point, the front
trimmed with rays of gold braid crossing the breast
Turkish Jacket OF white plush was very pretty,
trimmed all round with white chenille fringe.
Fine head dresses and wreaths for the hair are q
speciality here. One that took the fancy was long
trailing garland of geranium leaves, with splendid
carnations of deep crimson, shaded with the peTec-
ton OF nature, set artfuly by two and three along
the wreath, 10y no means so as to look crowded or
heavy, finishing with small ones on the tapering sprig
at the end. OF all flowers that bloom and breathe,
gather for the carnations either white with spcy
soul Of odor, or vivid delightful reds with Unsuitable
sweetness They are such IA human flower, seeming
stepped in the hearts reddest blood, and gifted with
the pure passionate perfume of its dearest. most vital
fancies. a soul aglow with human love ana vigor
and desire, might be incarnate III such a Hover; III
always ranges itself for me with noon sun aud the
flush of dancing and 1raviata music, and BTOwnlngs
poetry and ChOpns watzes-leaven save the mark
Oh, color and strength, and perfume, are things 10
thank Heaven for-and they are all comprehended IN
the word life. passionate aud pure ana a are SYM
bOzed in this blOOd-red caInatiOn, which January
does not forbid to bloom. would see them Ottener
glowing in paTor vases, and sOwn over the cleaning
robes of women making blondes picturesque with
their contrasts of deep color and brnes harmonious.
decorated In this way the black lace border on the
pointed throat sweeps from the cOrsage bouquet at the
bosom, away under the arms ana continues III uetpeI
pattern upon the edge of the open tram, on tle mem
of which ii is a tounce of fifteen inches wide; above
this narrower lace heading is quilted; ana IN
and ont among these laces twine sprays o1 rlcn
green foliage and carnations They form bouquets at
the lower of the tram, and run IN llghier
wreaths up the edges, and almost tOuch the Douice
knot, which is a single fine carnaton with JeWeieu
peranium leaf One flower is in the pulls OF lar
above the temple. and spray droopS on the icit
shoulder Another Ilch evening 1Iess, ~ VI sI,o ,
strong pink that shades finely with these MOVERS the
material Is dUVe, or unwateTed more, ana the 'front.'
is embroidered with hem border of silver ana GRIM
son: the side widths are placed large clear Pus Oh
India muslin with vertical fiOunce OF thread lace on
each edge, and these widths are kn0tted Win caIha
tions in garands with thin brilliant green foliage ana
silver grass. The open train Is OOped by these pun
ings with buttons OF silver paSsenenteIlc ana nov
lightly decorated by three inch barbe OF point de
Tess set several inches from the edge bearing single
large carnations at intervals the train was open IN
the center, with straight edges double piped WIN
white SATIN and laced through silver eyclets Win
silver cord the lacing being continued up the back oi
the Spanish waist, which ruffed in points at the
top with point dc NeniSe, and the hlgh pam tune
body covered with narrow rulfies in rows to match
the outline Of the neck.
Bretelles and low bodies of lace and velvet are
again in favor. Alternate barbes of black lace ana
points of velvet, either colored or black are pretty
for fancy cosage allowing one barbe or one velvet
strap each side to 0vel the shoulderfor Dretele
The low body should be cut out OF foundation NIL,
lnet the same for Spanish waist, the velvet ana
lined with very thin SILK The lace rows are some
times alternate medaOns OF gulpure ana fancy SILK
Black velvet with silver embroidery between has
good effect.
Organdie and India muslin are in favor this season,
as well as Chambery gauZe and tulle. The coiored
blonde ScaTfs and edges, which have been again put
i'm use should he eschewed 10y every lady OF taste
cotton handkerchief is hardly more fatal vulgar
ity than cOlored laces.
Fchus and sashes of clear muslin are very pretty for
evening dresses instead of lace and il is far better
10 them
Marie AntOinette fchu is made III muslin, with
quilted and embroidered edges, or laid In large trans
parent pufs along the border and edged with llght
thread lace India muslin over silk Is q rechdHe
toilet at present among the exclusives. pretty
toilet is of PINK gdce with white NelNet sewn on
evenly as a striped silk in vertical rows TO meet the
overdress of muslin descending III front to the knee
This is scaOped i'll large shells, with quiled edge,
headed by wide pufls OF muslin, which may be either
finished NV a wide pink ribbon wound in and out
among the puts. knotted between each, or set Win
clusters of purple berries and egantine Inc bodice
is low and round, worn with bertha garland OF the
same flowers the skirt or with heading OF llDDOn
alternately in knots and braids.
A beautiful dress which Will be recognized hy some
city readers, of brilliant pink grOs-graln Wlth
full train and low cOrsage. The skirt had deep
hounce of blooming pink gauze, above which feiI the
OyerdTess of splendid white Venetian gulpuTc. ms
was ornamented with Tose-cOOTed calnellas III pyTa-
md clusters on the sides and heading I1llnd Ine
train, besides a bouquet on the corSage tlne dia-
mOnd cluster ornament were worn with this; the
dark hair was rolled each side from the face, and
knotted intricately behind Marie Antoinette cnil
falling behind each ear. The bouquet was entirely of
The Partisan elegaates are in admiration now Of
solid striped silks, which worn on the highest
dress OCCASIONS; and they are handsome, thick, ana
dull of luser in twoinch stripes OF pure dead white
and pink. gray or violet which are the fayorite
coors. The utmost nicely Of fit should be made ill.,
dispensabe for one of these dresses, and the trim
ming will test the capabilities of the drcss-naker de-
cisively At distinguished reception given by one
of the French ministers lately the daughters of the
hostess wore blue and white striped silks without
flat. thnl lrflf
which form part of every fine toilet. Slight symp
toms of "A reaction against the overwhelming tOllIes
from time to time and it Is 20 be hoped the porcnts
will be sure. New-lOrk ladies are not much behind
PaIisians in courageous extravaganza splendid
toilet Ffth-aVe. lately was Of silk, striped IN
heavy black velvet and gold with paletot of velvet,
flounced with Bayeux, and embroidered with gold
thread Only the woman who put 1t on could have
worn it, but she was a superb beauty, looking as IL
she was born to the purple and carried it oil well.
Striped silks for evening are pretty with over
dresses of chambery gauze of a tint TO match the
stripes Broad ornamental white satin or velvet
sashes application the side seams or tabers OF
white silk or lace are suitable ornamentation for
them. Large diamonds on the train OF white lace,
nearly covering that part Of the dress are IN striking
style, and the silks show to advantage with trains OF
plain velvet.
last week, the occasion of the return of valuable
paintings from the Paris Exposition. the prettest full
toilet OF pink silk with full train, decorated with
the fine French tQweis now worn so much. The cor
sage was low, with pufed lace fichu and handsome
sash. The golden hair was dressed in large thick
silk with blue and white striped satin peticoat The
sole trimming was blue satin bands edged with lace,
which formed cuffs, shoulder knots, and collar. No
ornaments
1t should be recollected by those who dress for
these receptions that the matter of dress is much
at their disposal for matinee evening theater.
Full dress and street costumes are both III perfect
taste, except far convenience is irrec0ncable
with the former. handsome streettOet and lace
bonnet, or silk with demi-train and lace shawl or
al, l. unffa oh
receptions where there is always crowd, and dress
does not show to its full advantage.