The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1868-10-06

This highly adorned band or frontlet mounts
guard over an exceedingly small structure
which serves as sort OF stem TO the superim
posed flowers, or rs the ground Of attachment
for lace streamer; these ornaments seeming
to have, like human waits, an invisible means
ofsupport. One bonnet presented to our atten-
tion as an especially elegant black velvet
puzzled us for the moment, for no black velvet
was to be seen; but we are proud to boast Of our
presence OF mind, for gently dlsplsclng
the charming rose that decorated it. "Au
the fairer for It's oneness" as the poet
sings, there. hidden beneath the blooming
petals, was-the black velvet!
According to the best TASTE invisible ground.
works are OF the quiet and sober tints used in
the walking suits-black, brown, grey, drab,
and the many eye pleasing "neutraIs,''--
trimmed with the gorgeous colors suited to
the season. such as the yellows through all
their shading Of orange and flame 10 the soft
canary; the multitudinous reds, including the
ever popular scarlet, the rich purples, the mag
nihcent crimsons, and the new and splendid
"Sultana." To those who adopt the Shake
spearian maxim-"Be neat not gaudy"-the
various handsome blues are the favorite colors
for the young, and unsurpassed in becoming
ness are the beautiful variety OF greens that
refresh the eye with their continual pleasant
ness.
The display in millinery is richer and more
extensive this autumn than ever before. The
smaller shops are increasing with unexampled
rapidity all over the city; some of the old estR-
blishments former clustered In the close pre-
cincts of the buster parts of Chestnut street are
finding ampler accommodations and q new
field by intruding into streets heretofore exclu-
sively devoted to private residences, and in
Arch street and Eighth street there are many
establishments of imposing dimensions.
Ia hovya .raI
large and handsome assortment both of made
up goods and materials. But the skill displayed
In the construction of the genuinely artistic
hat and bonnet, even in their present minute
form. Is SO apparent that any lady might we'll
hesitate to attempt such work of art with un-
trained fingers, however delicate her fancy or
true her taste. The deftness with which the
wreath Is twined or the lace draped differs
strikingly in its artful artlessness from the
rigid propriety and exactitude which
seem to invariably injure the grace
Of the inferior limitations or the
homemade structures. At this house we
admired the frequent use of the Spanish veil
the drapery falling back in easy lines breaks
the sharp outline of the present bonnet, and
the apparent negligence of the folds has a soft
ening effect much needed for the otherwise too
much exposed head. hat with q soft, high
crown, at Messrs. Wood Cary's, was also
plcdbAuJ uONolby, uluorluB lTOn Cu6 uArSQ.
"sharp"-looking little erections that seem
bristling defiance 10 all observers.
Mr.. Hafieigh has added to the attraction Of
his splendid opening of walking suits fine
array of French bonnets, well fitted to match
the magnihcence of the dresses. Much admired
for its simple elegance was Bismark velvet
the plated diadem being of the same material
merely adorned with heron plume: q bonnet
OF drab velvet, relieved by a single exquisite
pink rose, was also remarkable for elegance.
One Of the most notable changes in the
fashion of the season is in the flowers, which
have suddenly expanded FROM the pretty
delicate blossoms prevailing last season
into the most full blown proportions. There Is
certainly gain In color but a loss in grace
Feathers of every description are welcomed as
a most suitable decoration for the heavy winter
materials. The long plumes of the ostrich are
always graceful, and there is also a very rich,
full waving plume called the cavalier. Small
feathers of changing hues are appropriate ap.
pendages to the "chameleon" coloring at pre-
sent so popular in dress materials The tiny
hummipg bird with its Jewellike lustre. and
the many other small BIRDS are piquaut deco
ration, and gayer tastes can be satisfied with
the intense brilliancy of the scarlet ibis.
AS the airy nothtngs OF bonnets permit no
variation in shape and only give fancy range
in decoration, the suppressed passion for con-
from fiat, low. crowned oval, round or square
shaped, through a wide range of high crowns"
Some of the latter have a picturesque grace
well suited to some OF the styles of ladies who
have been gifted by nature art with that
modern, much admired characteristic-dash