The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1868-12-24

great pOmp ana ceremony IL was the nr5t
and foremost dish upon the Christmas table
Of the feudal chieftains, and was served in a
manner strictly in accordance with the bois.
terous customs Of the day.
AS the "sewer" bore IL to the table he sang
thus
"Cuput Aprf defero
ReddenS iaudes domino
The Bore's Head in hand bringe /,
With gsrlandes gay and rosemary,
pray you all synge merely,
QH estS IN cOnViUto.
"The Bcre's Head, 1 understands,
Is the ohefe servyce in this lande;
Loke wherever 10 be fande,
SerVite cum CdTtico.
"Be glsdde lords; both more and lasse
For this hath ordayned our stewarde,
To chere you all this Christmasse,
The Bores Head with mustarde.
Cdput Aprt defero
Reddens tdUdes domino"
The dish next in regard to the boar's head
in ancient times was the peacock, which was
served up in rare and magnificent style.
After being prepared the lady guest of noblest
birth or most bewitching beauty was selected
to bear this royal dish into the hall; and fol-
lowing her, to the sound of music, came the
rest of the danes, in the order of their rank.
On such occasions the gallant knights would
swear over the dish to engage in the succor of
such gentle beings as they might find in dis
tress, no matter what peril attended the enter
prise. And sometimes there was then and
there a tournament, the victor in which was
permitted further to display his skill in the
cutting up Of small beasts.
Third in order of rank, perhaps-but first
in modern estimation-oomes the Christmas
pudding, dish Of quite modern origin, al
though 1t had its progenitor in the plum-p -por-
ridge of ancient days. This last was 80 highly
esteemed that it was always served with the
first course. Says Addison, in the Tatler, "No
man ofthe most rigid virtues gives offense by
excess in plum-pudding or plum-porridge.''
Now we reach the Christmas pies, indispen-
sable accompaniments Of every Christmas
board.
AS early as 1896 Christmas pies were
popular under the title of ''mutton
PIES" At later period neat's-tongue
took the place of the mutton, the
remaining ingredients being nearly the
same as at present. So highly esteemed
at one time were these Christmas pies, that a
watch was always set upon them to forestall
the depredations of thieves. The proper time
to commence eating them, according to old
DR.. Parr, was o. Sapientia, or the 10th of
December. Having so informed an inquisi-
tive female, the Doctor added:-"But please
to say Christmas pie, not mince pie; mince
pie is puritanical." The Puritans, indeed,
were bitter foes Of anything that savored of
Christmas superstition, and to their prejudioes
we are indebted for the following amusing
stanza:--
"All plums the Prophets sons deny.
And spice-broths are too hot;
Treason's in q December.pie,
And death within the pot"
The famous legend of "Little Johnny
Horner" can properly be introduced in this
| connection. Here we have it,
"Parpts Johannes Horner
Sedebat In a corner,
Edens a Christmas pie
InSeTun his thumb,
| F1trahit a plum.
E1clanpanS 'Q,ad smart puer am l."
In our days the boar's head, the peacock,
and other dishes anciently esteemed, have
given place to the turkey, the goose, and
| the chicken. The first of these is now the
essential dish, and ever occupies the position
of honor on the table. What an amusing
calculation it would be for some enterprising
statistician to add up the countless thousands
! Of these doomed birds which are annually
slaughtered just at this seasonl
The Music.
Another distinguishing feature OF the
CHERRY Christmas time is its music. In
England there is class Of musicians who are
termed "Christmas Waits" although it is
not known whether the word originally de-
noted the music, the performers, or the in
struments upon which they played. AS early
as the year 400 company of "waits" was
established at Exeter, concerning whom
Rymer gives long account, commencing as
| foll0ws:--
"a wayte, that nightelye from Michelmss to
Shreve ThorsdRye pipethe the walehe withen
| this courLe fower times; in the somore nyghtes
| ~ tymes, and makethe bon gayte at every
pyck eres and pliers. He esteth In the halle
with mynstrielles, and takethe lyverye (allow-
| ance) at pyghte loffe. a galone OF ale, ETC."
From this account II would appear that, in
the time Of Edward II, the "waits' were pages
of the court; but in later days they were
merely minstrels, whose strains were heard
only at Christmas time in England, and in
observation-disclosures being there tabooed-at
New Year. In London, at the present time,
] they perambulate the streets at night for two
or three weeks before Christmas, performing
the popular airs Of the day on various wind
instruments. Their labors cease on Christmas
Eve, and soon after they call upon the inhabi-
| tants for their contributions