Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1868-01-03
New York and Paris Fashions FOR Janu-


New York and Paris Fashions FOR -Janu-
airy.
A new idea is so rare a thing that it
deserves special mention whenever and
wherever it is found. This particular
L idea, however, is not quite new, except
in the msde in which II has been carried
out, but still in the absence of anything
better, it will do.
1t consists of gaslighc exhibitions in
the day time by prominent miliners and
mOdistes.
Since bonnets became small, the profits
upon them reduced, and the large num-
| Der made by ladies themselves. il has
been common TO associate dress making
with millinery Ia all the large establish
ments, especially as with the introduce
! ton of gored dresses, came the almost
/ absolute necessity Of employing an
artistic, at least, TO cut and fit them, and,
as a consequence, the profits upon dress.
making increased, as those upon millinery
went down. The association of these
/ two departments proves a most fortunate
conjunction ia these difficult lines, aud
renders gaslight exhibitions very effec-
tive.
! The usual method IL to exclude every
! particle of light from the large and ele-
| CANT shOwrOOms, arrange complete COS
| tunes at one end, and dress DOnnets,
| bridal walls, wreaths, hesd-dresses and
| the like at the other, with figures in
! opera, evening, street, or indoor UOilettes
| everywhere. The rooms are then bril-
| IiRntly lighted with gas, and cards Of ia
vitstion having been previously sent
round, are thronged sll day by ladies,
who are frequently tempted into an
extravagaRt purchase by seeing the full
| effect of a complete evening costume.
Among the novelties displayed at one
of these exhibitions was a DlQRteaa de Ia
cour attached to rich evening dress of
white unwatered ntOire. the mdUtedU
| is 8 long square train, one end Of which
| is laid in plaits across the back of 2 low
necked dress. The trail is from one to
! two yards long from the bottom of the
skirt, and requires considerable skill and
adroitness 10 manage. A trimming Of
rich lace is usually added to the edge,
which enhances the cost some hundreds
of dollars, but, in this case, the edge was
simply scolloped and bounded with white
satin. The lining was also white satin.
A costume of rich green fGile { q thick
silk with fine cord) was much admired
It was trimmed with a fiounce of white
point applique lace, headed with TOlG-
Ledu of green satin, a wide sash of lace,
and lace shawl was draped about the
shoulders. The price of the entire COS
tune az it stood was one thousand dol
lars. The new French sleeve was at
tached to this dress. 1t reaches to the
elbow, where it is slightly gathered on
the inside of the arm and lace Of fringe
attached which falls over. 1t is called
the Wdttedu sleeve, and always accom-
panied by square body low or cut out q
To- P0npGdOter. Long white gloves are
worn with this sleeve, which only leaves
an inch or two of space upon the arm
visible.
A new method of ornamenting a dress
is to drape a scarf across the front OF the
corsage and allow the two ends to fall
from the right shoulder, forming an open
Roman sleeve, made in white msrinO,
bOrdered with gold, the point ends
finished with gold tassels. The effect is
decidedly classic, particularly in con-
junction with the gold Greek band,
which is now the most fashionable orna-
ment for the hair.
But the taste for ornaments is not by
any means confined to the classic and
antique. The most absurd fancies pre-
vail, and q design is valued not for lis
beauty but for It's eccentricity.
The broad sashes, lOoped low, and
often used 10 tie up the overskirt or tu-
mic, ON the left side, or at the back, and
now passed through enormous gilt or
velvet covered rings, and, size being an
object, huge furniture rings are resorted
70, and rings made of wood and after
ward gilded or covered with velvet,
To the small rings of fire.gilt keys or
single gilt key Is attached in initiation Of
the ancient housekeeping method of
hanging bunch Of keys at the side OF
the dress. There is something profane
however, in adopting as a caprice OF
fashion, the insignia of an old-fashioned
virtue. Chains and chatelains are also,
worn, the former consisting of not less
than five, from the ends OF which are
suspended scent bottle and bunch Of
enlarged "charms." The wide sash
ends which descends low on the skirt are
now made Of either piece satin, silk or
velvet, and are embroidered upon the
ends with the monogram In colors or
coat of arms of the uJarer.
The chatelains are a much older in
stitution. 1t is several seasOns since
they were introduced and this winter
they have been again revived. They
consist of a sort of pouch Of silk, satin /
or velvet, embroidered and suspended by
two embroidered bands from the waist |
They hold the scent bottle and the lace
handkerchief
A new style for morning is made of
Viensese leather, and consists of belt and |
chatelaine ornamented with very small |
gilt or steel nails. Keys, small vessels
fully rigged, jockey capes mounted with
sporting emblems and the like, are the
latest Partisan inventions for earrings, |
and the designs are embroidered in the
corners Of the pocket handkerohiefs.
Very new handkerchiefs have eenters
Of unbleached cambria, and wide hens
of lilac, red, violet or blue. OF course
they are only used for morning or indoor
wear. Handkerchiefs for the streets are
embroidered with crest, monogram or
d0vtce, and lRces are used for the even
ing, with only the smallest center of
cambria. Such handkerchief as these
last are not intended for use. A fine
lady employs it like her fan and boquet,
Rs means of fascination and not as
vulgar necessity.
AliusiOn has been made more than
once to the difficulty Of procuring ladies'
osady made clothing even in the large
holes. Establishments for ladies' outfits
oyte advertised and talked Of, but there
iiee none where complete outfits of differ
1t grades or even Of one grade can be
obtained at once and the price immedi-
ely aseertained.
work in New Zealand.
1.-THE Otaga New Zealand1 Witness. in
shnOuncing the arrival of two emlgrant
iosips, says;