The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1868-07-15
FASHIONS FOR JULY.
Fron, LIE Rollek.

From lie F0Ilet.
The extreme heat and beauty Of this summer
weather renders the demand tor light and thin
materials very great aud never has there been
greater variety Of elegant gauze-like dresses.
White Is extremely fashionable whether in
muslin, alpaca, foulard or sultane; white muslin
over coloTed silk petticoat being especially in
favor, often made with a hounce, headed by
chiCoree ruche made of tanetas aud mushn or
by bouion of muslin with the color under it.
sash of the same shade being tied at the back.
Frequently with these white tollettes as with
co'oTed, lace fchus are worn. Nothing can be
more general than the crossed ichus; they are
almost universal, and made in all kinds of ma.
terial.
The most usual style is, perhaps, that crossed
in the front; but some have the ends taken back
under the arms, having some what the appear
anCe of small vests in the front, the ends being
tied behind like sash. Short costumes are
now worn even for visits and family dinners, the
trained robe being reserved for full toilette and
calls of ceremony; the half train and round
robe is cut on the bias in the frcnt just touching
the ground, and trailing a very little behind.
Among the fashions OF the day we must not
omit to mention the small aprons made of
muslin or white gauze, with braces trimmed
with ribbon. Several descriptions of short cos
tunes will be found in this months list, to which
we now proceed.
Short costume-pettlcoat of plain porcelain
blue cashmere, with plated tlounCe Upper
dress of blue and white shot sultane, loOped up
at the sides and full at the back, trimmed with
hounCe.
Costume of green and white striped iaconas,
Qdnc plalD-uppST ureSs, IOODeu up ana plated
at the back, mace of green barege spotted with
white, aud trimmed with a GounCe. A large
bow or rosette of green taletas loops the dress
at the back, over which is crossed pelerine
with ends fastened by bow, also of green
tafletas.
Short costume petticoat of foulard, with
hemmed Hounces reaching to the upper dress,
which is OF the same material, the back braadths
beng cut long and plated to the front in three
p'ais, fastened by large taifetas buttons. Dress
looped up at the back by a large bow of tatfe-
tas. Black taffetas Marie Antoinuette fichu
trimmed with frills.
Costume OF pink and gray muslin-under-skirt
with seven little hounces; upper skirt also with
hounces; Oasquine trimmed to matcn, aud un-
der it a wide sash with large bow of pink and
gray tatletas.
Costume-skirt of fancy material white
ground with brown satin stripes, trimmed round
the bottom with five narrow trimmings OF
brown satin. Blouse anglaise of the same
material, looped up at the sides by bows bound
with brown, and trimmed also with bro Rn
satin. Sash fastened at the back by long
wide bow of the same material bound with
brown. The body of the blouse is open in the
front, with wide reyers edged and trimmed with
brown satin.
Costume of steel gray poplin, the first skirt
boTdered with bias OF black tatfetas, forming
frame to some crossing OF black tafetas plUed
with white, which are paced at equal distances;
upper skirt trimmed 10 match.
Fete toilette: -Under-skrt of white tafetas,
with hounce set on in very large hollow plaits;
over this two skirts OF white gauze, aud canargO
with narrow ruche. The chic of this costume
lis the manner in which these skirts are arranged.
The camargo tastene by "a vide sash of black
lace, is caught together by a bow OF green
tatetas.
Black and white muslin and silk are muc IN
used in the same toilette. An elegant dress in
this style is made of white with stripes CT black
satin; over this tune of white muslin, raised
en- paDlers by a wreath Of black satin bows,
Fichu Marie Antonette, trimmed with lace,
surmounted by a cbicoree OF black satin and
white m he Upr
either small black toque and white feather or
fanchOn mantile, of black lace trimmed with
white roses.
charming dress in blue and white-Robe of
white sultane with double skirt, the upper skirt
raised by bows of blue ribbon. Man,elet Marie
Antoinette of white sultane over square body;
the mantle, as well as the edge of the body,
trimmed with fringe of small blue feathers.
Shepberdess hat OF very fine white straw,
trimmed in front with a white aigrette, making
a centre to q rosette formed of blue tulle, which
has scarf ends carried to the back, where it
falls in two very long ends, which are caught up
and fastened IN front by bouquet OF mYosotis.
Dinner dress of blue sllk.-Lower skirt
trimmed with very wide and iull ruche OF blue
gauZe edged with satin; over-skirt blue gauZe de
Chambery very boutfant at the sides, forming
paniers and edged with q ruChe OF gauze to
match that on the silk skirt, only quite narrow.
This skirt is drawn up on each side under satin
bows. Low square body, with ichu of blue
gauze fastened with bows of satin,
The most important thing to remember in
choosing bonnet is that it must either match
the dress with which it is to be worn in color,
and sometimes even in style, or else be a simple
fanchon and voile mantiile OF black lace, which
goes well with any color and almost any style
of dress. The chapeau de VILE, or morning
bonnet is composed principally of very narro "
'front.' trimmed with a wreath of flo Wers or
Marie ADtoinette poufIs. The strings continue
to be tied under the chignon, and scarf OF
tulle or lace fastened lightly over the chest by a
bow or flower. Lately, ladies have been seen with
merely a wreath of flowers and brides of lace
supplying the place OF the bonnet. This is Ger.
tailny very economical, but will not become
very universal, as ladies of good taste always
avoid eccentricites of style; still, the bonnets
are quite as small, if not smaller than ever and
do not seem likely to increased in size-at present
at least. One of the most fashionable bonnet
Just now is made with wreath OF cOrnfeld flow
ers, and long scarf OF straw-coiored tullC
fastened by bouquet OF flowers.
Hats are occupying much attention just now.
Very fine black straw OriCTinOline seem much In
favor. They are made exceedingly small, the
rims turned up, and trimmed with a long vel
and small wreaths or bouquets of flowers. ThC
long veil. in black or colored tulle, is quite a.
fashionably worn as IT was last year. Black
tulle hats are exceedingly becoming and very
light; they are generally trimmed with blacl
satin and field flowers. Hats of ieghorn, rice
or fancy straw may be trimmed with feather
and velvet.
Death of a Peace Advocate,