New-York tribune., 1868-05-06
THE FASHIONS


windows like flowers In hot-hOuse, but have hatu! Pu
forth their blossoms in the open air fnny asEe' o,U
ciOahs and heavy popins feel very coiuV S - -, 49,.
fires are out In the house, ana the WIN. - - ', ~
Soma seasre accounts for rawness OF the season py
a t uf stream has seehanged its course TART ler 10
ar ostard n this Is So it rs doubtless because the
ndmss,on Of Alaska has crowded IL here bot iutDuus
onspipo n bridal white In sheltered city gardens ana
women are busy pOndering whatnew bloom shaii make
their season stnie
10 bson with the most important the dress proper for
nnS toilet the loose gabrielle with seam In the
1oot belted to the figure, s wOrn trimmed each side
he onenng OF the 'front.' and all round the skirt which
baa demItrain. Buff, and dove-cOlored and striped
snens and cambrcs usually ounce Of moderate full
mesa set on at the knee Muslin and chambery are trimmed
with rufes Of the same, edged with valenciennes. All
cotton fabrics are set of with points, soaOps, rOuleaux
and fancy cordng and rung OF the material but these
must be made with great eXactness to look well after
going through the laundry. Plques relieved by large
crochet buttons wes Of the CLOTH Morning dresses
are made open at the throat close dagonauy 10 tne
Aem for yarietys sake. Colarettes standing collars
with points to down in 'front.' and straight bands
with embroidered edge, to be worn either turndown or
upright are proper for morning wear finished by three
inch orayats OF plain or striped silk, with long
ends ornarnented with crochet and fringe. Morning
poures of muslin are fancied by both young and mar
ladies'; coy homelike charm about the caps suits
trim linen morning gowns and fancy aprons.
For demitoilet the princess robe with short pompa-
dou or reyes waist easy coat sleeve pastfon apron
90 tho 'front.' and train founce combines the attractions
Of the new mode The plastrOn Is ornamental apron
of silk or satn cut scaops the edges, and
highly trimmed with bright folds Of silk and with fringe
For neuratnted dresses this application effective in
brilliant plaid silk with parcoored fringe. Tho train
Ounoe reaches to the Of the front width, which Is
left pain or trimmed up the sides. late design Is
manta oyerskirt as may be termeda short rounding
upper jupe Of silk edged with fringe having long widths
dvvith all md
The ends Fringe thread lace headed by roeaux are
sometmes applied like long rounding apron in 'front.' or
like half tunic behind sashes about reeeghths OF
yard wide a the ends and twothrds the length OF the
skirt when tied They usually fasten in loops at the LETT
eide.
FiOunces vary from the close plated one with pas Sc
cured at both edges the reversed pas held at the top
with buttons the gaured bias rie, scaoped on both
edges the broad pats with bows Of silk between them
60 the shell huted and triple rufles headed with hat
pus the bias The best style this season is to trim
dresses n self color or different shade of the tint
Chameleon and striped silk have putting, roleaux and
ruies of the same which with the bows and rosettes
made by every dressmaker, give subdued but sur
ncently decorated air to toilet.
The list of favorte colors for the season will include
pearl lavender and violet in it's softest shades, light
bronEes greensh and godeni Meternich, sort Of sap
green beautiful vert dc the very bloom OF the
wave. fen green bright pure shade like that of green
uame Mexico blue light azure, Empress, deep azure,
suggestive OF hawthorn, tinged checks and ambery,
brown hair its oonsOrts and the girls antique
lavender gray very lovely These the avore shades
Df the Spring silks Stewards The dark dull reds,
known as Sultan and carambier will be popular with
elderly ladies, who tired Of mauve, and want some
tint to eniven their pearl grays
The pesse appears to be the choice for outdoor gar
ents but It brought out in such unbecomng styles by
home dressmakers that 1t will lose favor The awk
baggy garments Of this kind the streets
-
thing general TASTE The French patterns close at
the shoulders and have but little fuDess at the belt and
fhe skirt has length enough to correspond properly with
that Of the under Dress not to cut the figure in two
which the human form win bear with no better effect
than landscape The pesse is adapted to the common
materials for walking dress but should be lined through
out with thin cambrie, keep IL from putting
ungraoefully
Fabrics for walkngsuits are the silk serge, and light
Bheeny Spring pOpns, soft lusters, much like the
pdfashOned sken alpacas hney-strped Silks In faint
shades OF gray and white which make admirably quiet
preet dresses popnettes Swiss popn quite pretty
ss silk Among the cheap fabrics are Canton cloth,
nenke mOhair that resiss the damp, and comes In buff
snd dove coOrs at yard Seaside poplns. that
have something Of the stiffness OF grass CLOTH and not
injured by rama grave gray material at rs cents yard
Rsverly cotton and wool goods, smooth and light as
snOhar with gloss 81 cents; and washing poplns. in
brown and steel-gray about These trimmed
appropriately with and wide alpaca braid, black
and white gmps and folds Of the fabrics Plated
founces headed by hafinch folds with gay, narrow
worsted braid stitched in the CENTER trim the skirts very
WELL so do fiat bands plped with alpaca braid Folded
ia the center and headed by Of the R0settes
black silk, with straw centers, add dressy
look and may beeasy detached when the garments
clca1ed
For the chilly days yet to come before midsummer
short jackets OF heather cloth viii be suitable These are
made either basQues saeques with pointed
fronts, and the points crossing
The poonaise cosehtting with belt and SASH is one
OF the becoming styles either black or nice
suits The skirt Is long, and sometimes turns back each
side In About six yards OF silk will make
one OF these garments aud trim it wci
The Vatican described before, promises to be favor
ite on Of novelty; the fness OF its back
held In plas neck the belt passing under these
through the side 1t is apt to give hunchback
effect to any but very fine figures The skirt is ooped at
the side, the back widths gathered into the Sides in
paA. Both the tama and old-fashiOned mantiIla are
again In fashion. The former in graceful form,
with square fronts fitting like ibasquine belted down.
the belt passing under the cape at the back which falls
over the like sleeves Another STYLE likely to be
very popular has three capes the shoulder square
and finished with fringe. The mantila is pretty with
black silk and very thin Summer suits but not pleas
tng garment TO be In silk with all sorts Of dresses
the ordinary paetos with long square ends and round
Backs and sleeves stylish rather plain garment Of the
latter description has three Of satin piping up the
Of the and five on the edges which are seal
Hoped Apretty basquine has chu OF silk embroidered
with satin roeaux crossing the 'front.' the ends
ing again behind The most elegant paetos this season
made Of black faile, unwatered more only tho
heavy corded silks are used In any shape.
Travelling wraps Of Scotch plaid are popular, and
nearly always viii be. beed paetot with loose waist
aud hood is of the latest styles for cloth garments
For evening there burnous scas OF white Grape de
chine, embroidered in coored sontache with tasses and
fancy tufted fringe awocl scarfs In solid colors and