The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1868-09-18
Antnmnnl rashiops In Philadelphia.

winter appear In the costume Of the time of
Louis Fifreenth. The simple and primitive
Idea, stripped of all the mysteries OF the mo
distes seems to be a dress having q reasonably
short Skirt, over which is placed another nav
Ing train, which train is drawn mp In Ioios'
loope and all sorts of fapclful methods, present.
ing unlimited opportunities for trimming anu
all species of otnamentation.
We have been accustomed to Similar style'
upon the prlma donna OF the opera ana the
tragedy queen OF the stage, and the modes now
offered for che approval OF the public will, we
think, be generally stigmatized as too tneatrl-
cal. But of course our eyes will become used to
such sights and human nature is blessed with
q wondrous power of adapting itself TO circum-
stances.
Quaint as the new panIer dress Is In form,
there is grace in its sweeping folds, sort OF
majesty OF am ptitnde strikingly different from
the triguess and buslness-like aspect OF Inc
short suits worn duliDg the last spring. The
fashion will succeed, tor it is becoming and
striking; but 1t will be necessarily restricted to
full dress and those leisureiy ladies who are
able TO wear It,
To heighten the effect and grace Of this COS
tune, the under and over portions may De OF
contrasting colors or different fabrics Thus
the under part may be Of green and white
striped silk, while the upper Is OF plain green
The upper part or tunic may also be made Of
lace or thin white muslin tortured into the
most amazing convolutions, while beneath Is
fancy colored robe, either high or low-necked.
The puffs or folds forming the panier are also
supposed to need an external support to keea
them in place. and therefore scarfends and
sashes tied in fancful forms at the back or side'
can be added in endless profusion, fuss, and
hutter.
In conformity with this historical revival
comes the Vatican dress. This is a picturesque
adaptation of the queenly train, the fulness
starting at the neck but confined TO the cor
sage permitting the belt defining the slender
ness of the plain waist in front to pass beneath
the folds behind, so that the grace OF the shape
Ia untnjured by the ampleness of the drapery.
This Vatican style Is adapted to both low and
high corsages and to cloaks.
Fichus or what by the uninitiated would be
called scarfs and small capes, belong to these
modes. The portraits of Marie AntoineJte
famtliarize us with the FORM which is grace
full scarf OIL small cape crossing over the breast
and extending inLo long ends, which pass round
the waist and are tied behind, as II to support
the folds of the panier. Innumerable are the
variations OF this fundamental idea OF the fichu.
They vary in size from mere band of trim
ming to a cape of considerable dimensions;
some also are adorned with hoods of different
shapes, and in some cases the lappets or ends
that tie behind are 50 enlarged as to simulate
double skirt.
The complexity of the costume o1course leads
to many more simple cohtrivances by which
the same effect is gained by other means The
panier folds can be formed in a detached por-
tion and added to the train, trimmings can also
be made to resem BILE or supply the place Of the
multiplication of skirts.
That most rich and beautiful fabric, the old
changeable silk is also revived under the new
name Of chameleon. From the gorgeous dis
plays In the windows 1t is to be Judged thai
they will be the favorile style of the winter.
The shifting shades of green and gold. blue and
crimson, yellow, with black or brown, and all
the endless combinations permissible In this
fabric, have q variable grace denied to the
coloring of the richest defined figures, spots, or
stripes.
These silks are shown everywhere as gay, and
glancipg as the plumage of bird, but abound
at Hickey, Sharp g. Co.'s, who pay O special
attention to silk; at Proctors there is also fine
array. The chameleon dyes also extend tc
poplins and serges, of which Edwin Hall, Cur
wen Stoddard, Thomas, and Strawbridge
Clothier exhibit q great variety both In style
and quality.
Trimmings are indeed "too numerous to men
uon;" everything seems allowable and in pro-
fusion - ribbon, fringe, laces. pufs, rufies
singly>>and in combination. A new style o.
fringe at Mrs. Binders is very striking anc
peculiar-the wide beading of solid grounc
has flower or rich figure in high colors. ant
matched inserting has the effect of a robt
trimming upon a plain silk. At this house are
also some dainty robes in which a two-years
Miss may well contest the prize for dress with
her mother. white pique underskirt, em
broidered or braided, with an over shorter skir
in buff pique was especially pretty.
The rapid changes in fashion are causing one
important alteration in ornamentation. Jew.
elry must also assume fitting styles and shapes
Combinations of gilt and steel are very effect
Ave, lighting up particularly well at night. A
variety OF different styles are exhibited a.
BaiIey's, and Caldwell has also fine array O
the sets-combs. hair bands, necklaces. lockets
ear rings, breastpins. and bracelets, which ar,
also xpected to follow suit. Painted jewelry
is also very pretty, viz, paintings on silk set IL
gold, jet or pearls. But perhaps the daintiest o
all for light evening dress is formed of flowers
wreath for the head, a necklace of blossoms
fastened around the neck, with q asmall bouque
TO serve as q breast-pin.
The crowning wonder, the winter bonnet. II
stu question of doubt. Milliners must be ex
onerated from the old sweeping charge tina
women cannot keep a secret. Fearful rumor
prevail that bonnets are to be-small, whateve
that may mean when we had hoped that WI
ad already reached the minimum. But thi
uaJl or will remain a mystery until "OpeninI
Day" bursts upon US In all It's glory.
LIPPINCoTT's MAGAzINE-Our Philadelphi,
Magazine keeps well to the front with the bes
of Its numerous rivals, and the October number
which has just been Issued, is above the usua
average In merit The table Of contents show
sufficient variety, and a hasty glance through
the different articles indicates that they ar