The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1868-10-25
THE PARIS FASHIONS.

THE PARIS FASHIONS.
>~~~~~--~-~-~-~----~-~
Royalty. Jewels, Swords and Toilets from
Spuin--C0nfess0rss Cooks and Consorts-
Queen Christmas Dress-The Ex-(lucen lsn-
bclla's R0bes-Sen0r Marforps Appearance
Dressed for Dinner at Biarritz-Eugenie Out
OF Doors-The "Dairy Maid" Manufacturing
Ladies Visiting mt Court-FuIl Dress for the
Opera-Whas Is Seen in the Bots.
PARIS, Oct. 0, 1868.
The swallows have quilted us for the South and
left their nests unfinished, wbe-O strange vicis-
STUDIES or life "a whole nation has left warm eli
mate to live here in furnished apartmcnts-its
Queen and her mother, their toilets jewels, trunks,
confessors, chaplains advisers cooks consorts and
ALL 30 that the boulevards are full OF black mus
taches and cigar smoke, diamond studs and sgnet
rings The only sounds heard sonorous Castan
words, and they are dropped from the lips OF gentle
men in high life, whose surnames are preceded by
half mile Of sanity Christian names.
Ex-Queen Christine arrived from Bordeaux last
Wednesday. She had crossed on board the Iougan-
ville and toilet on landing does not indicate that
she has given up old traditions respecting outward
show She wore lowered silk robe MacFarane
cloak cut in the newest style and a black tule fan
chon richly trimmed with pomegranate blossoms.
she certainly does walk with difficulty, but her fea-
lures express remarkable energy.
Isabella dresses very plainly on some occasions
and with excessive i'll taste others. Thus, on the
fatal day OF adieus from St. Sebastian she wore
light foulard travelling suit and toQuet hat as II 1t
was all vatican and pastoral affair. At Pau she
wears c0l0red underskrts and black silk Over-tuncs
at dinner high bodces, but plenty Of ewelry, with
total absence Of watered ribbon or orders hanging
therefrom. She is very bitter and sarcastic when
talking OF her present solitude and dethronement
and often between night and day stands out on the
balcony with gaze xed towards the Pyrenees; but It
Is rather late hour.
When had the advantage of seeing Senior Mar
fori he reminded me Of the carcatures drawn OF
Louis Philippe In ls4s. His face is the exact out
line of pear, OF which the stalk region is the fore
head. He Is all cone and extremely unprep0ssess-
ing, az his eyes are very close together, and in
order to make them appear larger he wears perpe
tual pair Of spring eye glasses. His whiskers and
mustache are bushy, streaked with gray; his neck
ia thick his hands white to excess, his legs short
and feet small, but he is altogether very ugly. The
only very 0rbidding part OF this royal favOrite
set Of long white teeth, and they look carniyorous
He wore brown suit, specked with white; his vest
| chain was heavy, and from 1t hung medallion
| with Isabella's portrait inside most probably In
his hand he held soft black rafeta hat As to the
| ring he is fond Of white, which contrasts
| rather toerable when seated, as his legs
| are shorter than tho rest Of his body,
| but intolerabIe In front Of beauty, when he
Is standing up talking for his speaking organ Ia
high flute which seems to take rise In his head. The
Queens being low bass the effect as duodialogue
can be fanced, especially on State concerns. Wen
as education has made them they are not badly OF
oa poR % vew ses 20 0e'
bought by NJ. de Rothschild for himself at the price
OF oo0f, was purchased In his name for NJ Mar
want Of a glass Of wine to keep mp old souvenirs
The tragic affairs OF sister queen have thrown q
little damp on Biarritz None OF the handsome tOi
lets piled up In travelling arches have been produced
The most dem0nstrative 10lllty Is quiet dance attc
ment than piano. Dinner Ia taken in high o.
square bodiced dresses or taffeta, trimmed with
ruche and lace roueaux puns. panniers rosettes
No wonder that young people lately feit an inor
dinate desire TO do something lively and petltioned
s smsd 20 h n me one ta
| music. 10 was sent for to tho Casino, where Mr..
waldteunel, the leader Of the orchestra there got
half wild with despair at not having II in his per-
| t0ire. Then It was telegraphed FOR to Paris. but
could not get TO Biarritz before the following
| ing, when OF course IL came too late
| The Empress drives every day q small basket
| phacton. She wears neither silk nor velvet but
Scotch merino called cashmere. The shades she pre-
fers are gray and dove Her costumes are trimmed
with satin rOuleaux OF the same shade as the
The underskirts are nounced and beaded with mar
row irills; the oyerskrts OF the looped up
| u Ia PompadOur pannler style. or Ia Lambae. Hell
nantes are pelerines behind, with square ends In
| front, over WHICH belt round the waist. This Il
| called Ia ldffiere, or datrymad mantle The belt
Is made Of satin IL the rouleaux satin: OF poult
if the ruche Is pOult. She has kind OF basque OF
jockey behind when not bow. II this frnged the
peerine Is frlnged also. straw toquet, or hat or
tune is her tasteful headdress over light curs hgh
behind and few over her forehead. Her boots are
kid. not shiny her gloves deerskn or Suede without
| any buttons. When she wears hgh-leeled shoes
her silk stockings are worked and OF the same color
| as her dress.
| nieces, wear light silk skirts In the evening. IA Of
| Chambery gauze and white high chemsettes IN
e the Dncess OF ae re Epprcss
| the eldest n not yet fifteen and very elegant.
The following is one of EugSnie's dinner toilets or
| u full dress day:-A sky blue robe nounced r0unt
| with point lace laid on nat between each rounce
An open bodice q "a Vatican, high behind with
ruches Of lace round the border. Medallion of dla
| monds and turquoses q black velvet ribbon yer,
long diamond and turquoise earrings. curs behint
and Grecan bow OF hair on the summit OF the heaa
| and little antique curls on the forehead.
The dresses at the Italian opera on the opening
ming OF this have foresnadowed what to be
Scotch plaid gauze IL the greatest novelty Tor low
| dress aud Scotch plaid satin on white. AT length
express some satisfaction recording this but
advise small plaid patterns. The scarf IL crossed
over the bosom instead OF tight bodice and the
effect IN Grape AZ II waves among inle Is most
/ charming.
| pretty ball dress IL 80 soon made up too with
plaid over tule. but care must be Observed ~ n big
tartan square OF orange red and blue would spoil the
1 gay, sprighty trimmed eject.
| The opera coaks were OF plaid velvet or white
cashmere lined with silk and b0riered with velvet
all round, besides Scoth plaid hood. In plaid bail
| dresses white pink and green most predominant
| Talking Of the .Itaens" reminds me that Mme.
Adena Patti was more youthful aud sang Lucia with
more thrilling expression than The public did
not welcome her 70 enthusiastically NJ first as on
former occasions for that prudent lady fanced she
might have lost few notes since ale became Mar
quise but after her famous cavatIne applause came
down crescendo Az To the tenor Fraschini. he ~
sixty and tenor VINO IL sixty cannot knee and get
up again. sigh, smile and perform oil the spasmodics
which constitute lovers with much nInlble grace
as if their affections and limbs had not been c0oed
by rheumatism. The real hobif,fes Of the Italian
opera not having yet returned from their chateaux
and hunting parties celebrities Of the 7I and
quart de monde occupied their places. and though II
NAV appear strange very strict made their
attire study to copy from.