The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1868-10-06
.0hrQnteQiqenrer.
READING FOR THE LADlEs.
TIT latest Fashions
THE AUTuWN STYLES.
From ne Netg York tribune.

-liauSlOrus an unpretanQtnp
Ianchon or Maria Antoinette bonneI
into a head-pie of formidable dienitv
a little woman in one of these bonnets
looks as appropriately dressed as Bia-
docls would have been in a Valen.
clennes lace cap. Butt new fanchons
with Marin Stuart fronts will be fash
lonabIe enough to suit those who find
Ihs TIARA too majestic for their brows,
one thing will be heard with pleasure
by young ladies: They as a class are 70
discard the fanchon or bonnet, and
wear the pouf, small cone:crowned
low hat, rising sufficiently from the
head to justify its name. 1t is usually
seen IN black velvet, the crown hidden
with plumes or with a lace quilting and
a great spray of roses.
Black velvet hats and bonnets trim.
med with golden green of the most bril-
liant shade, with shaded crimson or
| white, will be the choice for the Winter.
Few colored velvet hats are seen, and
these are the Sultan, bears-ear garnet,
or the new Regina purple, and are de-
signed for matronly ladies. But the
| black velvet hats are by no means SOM
Der In eject, for facings, twists, and
pipings are devised to give the relief of
the most brilliant and striking con-
trasts. Large roses OF deepest blush,
shaded exquisitely, with pendant
sprays OF their own foliage and buds
are favorite adornments, and are worth
an artists attention for the skill with
which they are brought to life. A pouf,
Henri ~ shape, of black velvet, has
medallion of gathered lace in the crown,
on which reposes a rose, which would
be the glory of Malmaison's garden,
large, glowing, shaded from heart TO
outside petal like brunette's pome-
granite blush, relieved by its plat of
golden rose foliage, which some mar or
mi1hnw has harrod 9th h1aaLr Tho
rich frost-cbanged leaves linger down
the spray, round late buds, till the trail
finishes in full bud, as glorious in its
partial beauty as the orbed flower above.
Or some creamy morn OF roses opens
till the leaves are ready to drop asnn-
der, with one burning velvet petal on
the side, set off by brilliant crimson
foliage, with the delightful blending of
cream and cartnine. The fashionable
red ia no longer scarlet. but crimson,
without a tinge of brick red about it,
sOftening and shading into lovely rose
pink-the most blissful color In the
world. This shaded crimson suits
blonde and brunette alike, and is chosen
for garnitures in flowers, scaris and
plumes. Wreaths of marguerites.
chrysanthemums, and large rose. buds
of many colors make gay, admired
trimming for black velvet hats. Plumes
are all small, but several are worn on
hat, completely hidiHG the material.
Black, white, or garnet are usually
chosen, though on cOlOred hats they
should be of the same shade. The al
grette isindispensable on a fashionable
hRt-a little tpft of skeleton fbers start
ing from small curled plume giving
spirited touch to hat trimmings.
Less satin is used ON hates; If princi-
pally severes for facing and piping:
The mantilla vail is still part of the
bonnet and worn longer than ever. The
scarf vail, braids of quilted lace, and
broad lace strings, are also seen on ele-
CANT hats. Thread walls are square and
long enough 10 fall below the chin.
1t has been men toned in these articles
before that the lace embroidered in
coiors is simply vulgar.
Evening bonnets are of white uncut
velvet or lace with velvet folds, and
are seldom seen without The large man
tilla of white Spanish lace wrought
with floss in large figures, stars, wheat
ears. sprays OF flowers and FERNS, with
border of rich, sparkling, white blonde.
The vail often falls from the diadem
backward over the bonnet and sweeps
the shoulders. In this case the trim
ming is on the diadem, on whose vel
vet lovely garlands are trained round
the face. Apple blossoms with velvety
opeuine foliage and buds trim hat of
vuilIed satin, with long vail the gar
land gradually tapers nearly down the
length of the cheeks. On hat number
two, the vail, embroidered in white
nosegaYs, falls back from the diadem
OF light azure velvet, in the center of
which is a white marabout aigrette with
little black bird peeping from the
dome, Hat number three had snowy
lace decoration of gauzy, golden, green
foliage with white narcissus on the left,
and u green humminR- bird outside, its
bill pointing up from covert OF snowy
plumes held by twists of emerald vel
vet on the white bonnet. Another was
OF W bite lace puffings, the vail laid on
the back and held by clusters of white
immortelles and green leaves the dia-
dem was ofmarabout fringe, with string
of broad blonde resembling Mechlin; q
shaded crimson rosebud peeped over
the face at the left. The POmpadour
taste was shown In white upeut-Yei-
vet, which bore for adiadem blue vel
vet wreath between white lace borders,
and large bright pink rose shining at
the left from the outside. The vail was
caught up halfway in the middle be-
hind with a small white bow.
a Sultan velvet was shlrred in the
centre, the edges elevated and fixed in
high plaits to give the space for the
diadem, which was of garnet oak leaves
in velvet. veined with rose pink, a
beautiful shading; white margnerites
and garnet aigrette at the side. a sPlen-
did hat was Henri Nv. shape, with
raised crown, on which was rosette of
black satin box plaits, diadem OF vel
vet quillings, and lace fall under the
chin; round the velvet brim ran the
trail of gorgeous rose, with foliage
blotched crimson, black and golden,
aud shaded buds. These round hats
have the diadem, vail behind. and
strings, precisely like bonnet, and
thus give the effect of both shapes.
| fra naFFnWpF
across the top, but come well over the
ears IN length, aud with their diadem
fitting closely over the hair, and vail
falling in full folds below, are really
more protection to the head than their
size, would show, and are all that Is
necessary in the present style OF wear
ing the hair.
a mantilla couture was of thread lace,
two rows of plaits to the front, and one
turned to the back, with an irregular
bow of many loops on the chignon.
| forming a fanchon for the top OF the
head; the vail fell from separate band
across the the hair, and crossed on the
breast in long lapels, like flchu. An
elegant bonnet was Marie Stuart oil
black velvet and lined with white elk
trimmed with black and white aiRrette
and plumes. Bonnets for very young
ladies are hood-ltke affairs OF shirred
black velvet, the front in hollow plaits
outside almost covered by great ro
settle of pink loops, with some Irregular
long loops and streamers at the back
A round hat with close brim of black
velvet folds had a wreath of shaded
roses, cream-white, with one crimson
velvet leaf, gray.green foliage, and buds
beaded with dew, placed directly on the
top. z.,..a..,
called Star of the Morning, ike the
mist broke upon by early light, ma
tural shadow tint that combines with
any color, but especially we'll with
| ~ ~. ,oso crimson Scarlet is toe