The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1868-11-01
PARIS FASHIONS.

4 Decorations n60I1>-
Tho Impress simplicily-FrilIs the In.
/ crcnse-GontIemeu's Dress-The "Shepherd'
Accompaniment 70 rho swatteau''-NIarfori
| and Cora Peari-AristeeratIc Economy-Ths
/ Chisnon Exp0sed-ILsht and Darkness.
PARIS Oct. 10, 1858.
l "A French Major,n said LION Goylan, s'is man
who has three decorations The third was given him
because he had two the second because he had one,
and the first because he had noney This ia Just tire
case with our paniers. We are now wearing three
puts behind, instituted on the principle OF decora.
tons. The underpu Of all Is made OF steel and put
where nothing existed the SECOND oyer-pun Is made
or starched calico and pu: on to cover
the steel; the third Is made OF silk, satin
velvet or cashmere, and Is called Vatican,
or . Pompadour, or q Cama-go. This word
being in no dictionary as commoa-sensed noun and
so often in fashion papers, deserves explana
ton. Few Partisan ladies who 80 about ordering
Camargo everythings know care who or what
Camargo is or wasf They know Inc shape exactly
and that IL means punching out behind, with nat
skirt widths in front and plenty OF quilting and bows
New York bellies, who study botany and the constel-
lations In the heavens wondering why bright
stars twinkling them like admirers eyes, should
have been called 'sThe Major Bearo and worrying
their brains all sorts OF like problems, are ma
tionaly and eonsttutionally more inquistive than
and etymology OF the fashions and pride myself that
the fashion disciples OF the NEW YORK HERALD are
not only the most stylish OF dressers but the best
a woman ana a ballet dancer; she flourish
ed In everysense 81 about me year o l,s2
the eisSaisteess Of Paris We're cnanssees a "a
Camargo. But this partial imitation ; was IN In.
UP prevailed for years, until Traron's bamy days
gave more regal names to poor Camargo's fancy
| less as Marie Antoinettes, Our present Empress
has given up all claim to christening the new
union with Napoleon we had Empress and Eugene
clothes but for the last three seasons this has been
Dropped Her Majesty now favors great +rec ne
thorty il not so omnipotcnt In her boudolr over
drapery as was his wont. but he still holds sway
throne. The last dress the Empress was
seen in at Biarritz was chestnut poplin,
aered eo with satin 0'' Of the same sasha shade
white cloth loose jacket and chestnut brown straw
the large drapery establishments. The following Is
the prettiest style OF merino cashmere:-An I'M
friIls, an overskirt with two one and gofered
heading; high chemisette, with ruche or rill az the
which il warmly quilted and lined with silk, and
has square ends In 'front.' These cashmere costumes
pinfed by machinery Some Of the rilis and dounces
worn on costumes at the last Longchamps races
were dented 80 deeply and 50 full ina. they looked
naisc jackets. The quantity OF material cut up In
this way Is prodigious and makes matrons sigh that
word means when It is done for; but why
should itf However, silks can always be turned
makers here Tor for Cashmere, nsey, serge, twine,
tweed elk metres for under petticoat, twelve
metres for dress and boddce two metres ana half
for either belt bows, crosscuts or sash or trimmings
OF the same material.
There was very decided change, too, in the outer
The stripes down their trowsers were very wide In
deed and shaded. Nearly oil the fashionable TURTLES
had adopted the various shades OF chamoiS, gaze1e
and Cordova leather the shawl part OF their vests Is
very wide back and the overcoats were either very
short or Jockey COATS OF mace Mn sh hn
or Metternich green seemed TO 10 the favorites. am
assured that white cloth VIII contend with last sea-
sons blue and brass buttons for evening full dress
Ladies, beware of rouge u - very likely
that wha, is coming viii induce aSss,, some ,a,s
paper down with inenaole disguise; but
must record that some men last week at Dleppe ap-
peared every DAY the beach In this white cloth
| from top to ankle, and open Shoes with blue
and pink rosettes instead OF o buckle upon them.
called "shepherdn 1t il Intended to be an appro.
pirate male accompaniment for Vatican females
but the idea is truly seaside onethat Is sickenns
cannot be complete unless he cuts on his beard and
courts In a Lace night cap.
was made OF two skirts. " was called by ts wearer
the Forty-second scots. Thc under petticoat was
u
yard Deep All round the overskrt, which was open
down the 'front.' rounded aud looped up by immense
.s i, bog O. ana on
the waist behind which was like a fan basque,
trimmed with chenille balls; scarf was crossed
from one shonldes over the bosom: the toquet was
velvet, with a wing algrcbte; jewel ornaments,
Scotch pebbles, bronze leather high boots aud deer
Cloth ~ much worn. especially in the dove shades,
with chenille. very rich toilet which is to be worn
nj Compegne il cerise velvet Polonaise, trimmed
~
ON silver gray satin under petticoat, above the
ounce of which are r0ueaux OF cerise velvet ce-
rise velvet oques and white ai1rette IL is pretty
certain that the Court VIII not leave Biarrz before
the 18th inst. the Emperor intended to leave for
Compiegne this week, whittier the hunting train has
been directed, but happening 10 take stroll on the
terrace at Barr1t1 he expressed his regret to leave
did = the Empress then asked him t to stop few
days more, which request added another induce
sa 70 remain ana orders were III
| 81. Cloud before going 80 Compiegne and toilets
viii have TO walt again, for the greatest simplicity is
The queen OF spain win remain at Pau till the end
| OF October whittier, ah, whittier, then, autumn
leafH The photograph OF Marfori is 70 be had for
five cents oil down the Bouleyar,ls. whereas Cora
| Pearl fetches a whole franc
The newest trade for the fashionable world ~ the
hiring " fruit for grand bauqucs. In the same way
people hire crystal for balls, out-grown apples and
1 pears prize melons &C., are hired FOR the central
piece Az soon as the banquet il over the specula-
tor removes his fruit and it Is next day on some
other aristocrafic board u would be very unfortu
/ nate for all parties II lady IN a position when
wishes uncontrolahle should take fancy to one
OF these hired pears. The consequences OF denial
nigh, be the birth o' oiid just like Marfori, with
conica head.
/ The hiring Of hair hes been instituted since May,
1867, for parties, but now chignons be had per
month. This reminds that two actresses lately
mad quarrel behind the at the Athcnee; one
was old and got her curls mishanded by her sntaeo.
MIST who young. A friend came up and blamed
the latter for having shown little respect for her
| elders gray hair. "Her hair, indeedr calculated
the excited actress: "and what has she done with
my chlpponf Where f. II, should like to know ~
The truth is, IL was clean of. ON that night had
| the advantage Of the following between two rivals
at a hop -" How well y0U look under candleght ~
exclaimed one. with o stress the candles. "And
| how charming you are In the derk ~ answered the
other.