New-York tribune., 1868-07-06

is az busy as bee encouraging the fires to
ignition, watching rTdano wA meats fS
broils. stews, puddngs, cakes, and vegetables
candidates for table QUICKLY hs ods ss ar h
opening In the partition which separates tne
from the Kitchen The atmosphere Is eny ne y NM smells
that would puzzle any nose to resolve INTO sinpes te
long iron table warned By steam,ppes underneath,
which receives the paters of cooked food om au
ant working with extraordinary rapdity. The carver
receives the orders from the walters quickly slices inc
ant who adds the usual vegetables and hands 1t to the
waiter. The pudding man" at the other end OF th9
table is industriousy serving rice BOTH" plum Doth
tapiOca, and dumpfngs. Further back three or four
women with towel and dshmOp are assduOusy wasnlng
the dishes. The noon hour is the meridian
rapid than thorough. On one side OF the kitchen
ing steaks chops outlets TO order and requiring at
mealtime the constant attention OF the order cook
-Four or five barrels OF weekly consumed for
the purpose hard coal spelling the flavor OF the meats
Then there large dinner range Tor baking ana T9ast
ing and small range for breakfast circular grdde,
usually large enough to bake 80 wheat or bueKwheats at
once taxed to its utmost az DreaNast ana supoI
supply the Yankee penchant for hot cakes and
the time and perspiration OF saamander cook, whose
daily fiery trial would a sufficient reason for
temperature of the recalls the story OF Nebuchad
nezzars hotter furnace, which, be 1t remaISeu: was
used with much less for cooking purposes steam
is now employed cooking TO avery large extent IN
the largest and best fitted saloons potatoes tarnp pe
and other vegetables boiled In long IRON r0ugs con-
tanning water, into which steam is admitted Dunphgs
placed racks inclosed IN an IRON closet anu @ % @
treated in this Hot beef soup III winter nae
ready sale The clean bones cut out OF the meat are
boiled "a cauldrOn until all marrow ana nuJrltlVe suv
stance extracted. This liquid Is called soup s,och
and when required is transferred to another kete anu
boiled with and vegetables TO the full rank OF soup
The larger establishments have bakery CONTIGUOUS 70
the Kitchen in which they bake their own bread pies an
rolls Either the cellar, or in some COOL conYehlehi
place is located stOreroom, where all the hsh ana
poultry brought in the morning by the butcher are KepS
upon ice until needed 1900 TO- OF ice per week Is reuuceu
to water in this work OF preservation . -, A..
The saloon generally opened about hye O'Clock IN tle
morning at which time the early breakfast IS cooktu
Breakfast until IL halfpast IL dinner rom hI
past IL till A. supper, from until halipast 3 AZ weI
time the downtown saloons close. Those on BrOauHay
keep open all night. good saloon III gooG Iot"toi
has five to six hundred customers az DIeaast, per
haps eight hundred at dinner, and ABOUT SIX "
supper. a,,o % .,r hundred
pounds of beef daily 100 to $50 pounds OF vea lOo %
Of mutton about as much pork and about as nuen lah
poultry winter $50 to $40 worth of various vegetables
800 loayes Of wheat bread 100 oayes OF trenc anu 20
oaves of Graham bread from 400 to 500 rolls 100 gallons
of Coffee so gallons Of tea 800 to goo quarts ot h ~
10 $50 pounds OF butter and from $50 10 sou worth
dried canned and fresh fruits The wastage MADE up OIL
homes grease and remnants amounts 10 fYe or SIX par
res day, which Is daily removed Dy Jhe scrap
ant The grease is boiled down for various oeaghous
purposes, and every one carries aIOuh9 soine h VI
bones his person, metamorphosed INTO DuIIonS eop
Each season brings its speciality to the b Of fare an
nOunced by cards hung in and out OF the apartments IA
must advertise their wares Appetite easily tempted
through the eye either by the object OF its dvse o .e
I. a =
aginaton before him, snufng Its odos ana m Is
fancied taste This ocular sympathy with the somacn IL
improved in every possible way by the issue OF posters
hand-bllls and conspicuous newspaper auNeI
When strawberries come, the alurng fact Is puOsIeu
by large canvass banners hung the street bearing
the simple potent words strawberry shOrtcaHe M fL.e
hundred sOrtcakes day often sold at ID or cents
each bushel of huckeberries is daily consumed tor
huckeberry dumplngs Peach short-cake and peachnmp
nes spoil eight bushebaskets OF that luscious frut IN
Winter the inordnate demand for buckwheat cakes uses
up nearly barrel OF batter per day and wheat ana ~.
dian cakes nearly another barrel Two hundred ana MY
300 iis-bails are daily nodded IN the eilIy ~
and regarded cheap and enectlVe inllous ast9
alike in any two saloons has very large Winter sale
The regular dinner fare includes some ~ OF oO
aud about rs many more which are InrnsneG 10 o, o
peculiar to the season Inc DIeahIdst au slPCt 20 ia
are alike comprising 40 dishes, nearly always 10 DC
cn1s while simplicIty and abstemiousness be
cheapy satisfied. The walters repolt great many many
pecuartes in habit. One man utterly Ignores elther
abundance or variety at ms dinner ana monyoHUusS &
confines himself TO cup Of coffee ana an appe dunP
ling; another for mouths at time, Dreaktasts on q
single hot roll and cup OF eoiIeei another hgg sPs
on corn bread and milk. There are other cusIohSi
whose eating habits have been so careilly stuulcu ~
the walters that they never think Of handing them the
bill of fare asking them what tney VIII have,
entrance shows hunger-a nod or gesture ItS
To run the machinery Of such establishment and
feed all its customers requires force about as lOoNs
one meat cook two vegetable COOKS one soup 'ooAi W.
cooks for cooking meats 20 ORDER Two CuNeIs oaAsi
and assistant griddle-cake baker Two ntemel' ~
walters and foreman coffee ooy, hnle oo! to h t,
washers, and two llundresses The meat COOK VINO may
ment The head is the chief artist IN Oeei anu
beside his duties at meal hours, outs up ana az
and they are ready for the cook who begins WOk t
four in the morning The cook IS preceded D one OF te
remen who kndles the fires az o'clock ils
relieves him during the day, and by special regulation IN
some establishments Is detailed TO dispense e pu0us
and cornibread as early as o'clock in the morning His
assistant acts as pastry cook and mixes up Ie etke
b"y predes over tile faucet OF the kettle and from
behind battlement Of crockery waits ON the WAITING
tiine and energies with rotten-stone to improve
the complexion of the cutlery aud devo'es ,H .ne
from eleven TO thirteen hours and have rest between
meals hours with the exception OF TWO men 1e'
The carrct allotted To the waters who spend telr ese
In smoking snoozing, reading and playing various
called usually selected from the most OF tne
walters, who opens and sweeps the saloon III lnc
and hls the honorable office OF bntteImah LtnaI ~
gives ont each morning the butter Tor use during ho y
In addition 10 their wages, the employees receive te
meals daily, but IN certain establishments are LesrrTtTo
10 certain articles and these often OF an inferior qIy;
In othe+s-Swees Fultonst for instance-lmpaltlal
Themselves any qualifications which are named Oh te
regular ticket OF fare The walters receive ~ week
the head winter SO, the carver sl2-Wages aTdly III
keeping with Scrptural rule that the laDoTer ls
worthy of his hire. The walters IN most OF the SALOONS
are colOred though there many places Were WINES
are employed at the same rates OF pay Out not III Tue
same establishment ,,-,. 49,, ho,o, cos
vice, where each waiter Is provided WITH trsy anu
person at time 10 serve the denOdraos, &
ory The more orders carry in his head TO the
Kitchen and the greater number OF dishes ne can oihg
hack ON his arm without breaking, the greater MS NaIue
o the establishments and the better his chances lor pro-
motion 10 the head waiterShp Good walteis VIII le
nuentIy take five orders from many different persons
and bIDg them all back at on their arm sHpN 10
carry the dishes In this style requires considerable I
inc and IL Is really surprising 10 20 what extent pro
ncency can be acquired. There is head walter IN
Fultonst saloon who correctly carry 70 the cheh
the details of seven orders aud return with Il plates OF
meat bread and vegetables his arn. ana 1our cups
and saucers of coffee his hands CautiOuSess Is en-
,tlp1
waiter TO pay the glass aud crcckery he breaks at
prices which the unfortunate complain, are sometimes
The waters memories are often severely tried
A party OF six or seven persons 80 gDd III ve az