The Conservative. (M'connelsville, Ohio) 1866-1871, 1868-11-12

thin silk, wadded and quilted, is worn
under these cloakB-a comfortable device
for people who suffer with cold, but de-
signed by the French to give that epi60n-
point which they consider so desirable.
The blue black velvet is more fashiona-
BILE than the dead black. In buying velvet
Tor a cloak remember that the 2S-inch
width cuts to greatest advantage. The
best Lyons velvet is the Ponson brand. II
is not affected by water, and the pile is 80
close that IL is not crushed when pressed
against the back Of q chair or pew: SIG a
yard il the price. Yard-wide velvet Of the
same quality costs S25, aud the additional
width is of little service in cutting Il cloak.
The seryiceable tricot beaver is not a
new cloth, but it retains it's popularity
despite the advent Of novelties. II has u
ribbed s%urfnce, which is scarcely percepti-
BILE in the finer qualities, becoming nearly
waved thread, but Is plainly defined in
coarse goods. II IA a yard and n half wide,
ranging from 80 to SO. Two yards and
three-cights ale required for a paletot with
cape. Heavy castor beaver Is smooth,
glossy and more expensive than tricot. but
we do not commend it, as it IL stiff and un-
yielding, and consequently cold. Many
French cloaks are of thick Esquimaux
beaver, weighty and warm, n smooth outer
surface with rough nap inside. Soft, plia-
BILE chinchilla beaver, with short, curled
fleece, and the velvet meltons nre shown
in high colors-garnet, mulberry. purple
and green. A black velvet cloth without
lustre is desirable for morning cloaks-s9
q yard.
There nre excellent limitations Of fur,
seal, and Astrakhan sold Mt prices ranging
from 50 to $50. These can scarcely be
told from the genuine article, but We do
not advise their purchase for the reason
that we dcprecate all limitations. The same
money is better spent in n tricot beaver,
which is all that il processes TO be. More
over, these shaggy clothes are not very du-
rable.
The basket-woyen cloths, white grounds
with scarlet or blue spots, are chosen for
children-SG q yard. Three-fourths Of n
yard makes n shortloose sacque. The white
velvet cloth, hull an inch thick, soft and
pliable, is quoted for opera cloaks at 50 q
'yard, double width.
TRIMMING.
The handsomest velvet cloaks, costing
$500 or $500, are also covered with thread
lace, OF are bordered with sable or chin
chilla. Velvet mufis trimmed 10 match ac-
company these. Berthas, Vatican drape-
~, breteiles and ]rosettes with looped ends
Mt the throat aud back are of the finest
Chantilla. Low priced ~velyets, the cheap
est we have seen, costing 500, are trimmed
with satin bows, chenille or Melted fringe,
leaf passemcnterie, n row OF alternate loops
Of satin and taille, or d pleated
faille frill, raveled at the edge 10
form fringe. The value Of these garments
ia IN their stylish fit. A simple and elegant
trimming il the diagonal pleating made of
g0tuNN Llral VmaNl WrAluaN AaNANhAu gvaAI
style is n bOx-pleated fill OF faille four
inches wide, cnt straight, and raveled half
m inch ON each edge, This is around the
wrist and elbow. A ruche of the same il
on the neck, with large bows on the shout
der sides Of the skirt, and the back Of the
belt. Thick ruches Of satin, faille and vel
Vet nbout the neck OF French cloaks are
worn in lieu of furs, which are said to be
losing flvoT with the tickle Parisiennes.
Fringe and iaille are the favorite trim
mings for cloth. Satin is restricted to vel
vet. Handsome melted fringe, very full,
with heavy trellised heading. costs from So
to S12 n yard. Chenille fringe, each
strand tipped with satin, is S4. Wide tas-
sci fringe, each tassel long and full, but
distinct, costs So. The novel fringe made
of quill shayings, solid black, or in well
blended shades, costs SO or "a, according
to width. Leaves aud vines of passemen-
terie, for heading lace and fringe, are made
Of satin brnids on cords, without jet, Mt
prices ranging from ST. 5 a yard to So.
Pointed serge braid is shown for cloth
cloaks. ROsettes of passementerie, with
long tassels pendent in tho center, are
Topped with cords for fastening cloaks.
Similar ornaments are on the shoulder and
sides Of skirt. Buttons and button-holes
on the inced slip are concealed in front.
Russian lamb, Astrakhan and Angora
fringe are used to Tim cloth and cash
mere. A pinked ruche OF cashmere il in
good taste,
LEEGTH AND PRICES.
The added length prophesied for cloaks
is not evident. A very long garment
would appear clumsy with a short dress.
MoDLL
A Camnrgo of black velvet is lined with
white satin. The skirt is caught in pleats
Mt the side, disclosing the lining ut the
edges. A frill of pleated faille surrounds
the garment. Bows on the sides and
shoulders. Belt Of folds Of taille, with a
large pleated and fall shaped bow at the
back. Price 5000
A regular Vatican Of Lyons velvet is
with Chantilly lace sot on the vel
vet above the edge, with a heading Of pas
sementerie, On the top of the back fold
is a passementeTie rosette, from which fall
tassels reaching below the waist. The
wide lace IL gathered around tina wrist aud
elbow, and arranged on the waist in the
square Pompadour style. Price $3.50.
A half Vatican of Louis XIV. p~olonaise
has the fold behind, beginning low on the
buck, forming a panier puff. The belt OF
satin folds passes under the Vatican fold.
The edge of the garment is untrimmed.
Renaissance BOWS of satin form bretelles.
bows are on the wrists and sides of
the skirt. Price $3.50.
Another of velvet, with panier puff, is for
q young blonde. The waist is close fitting,
with a pointed jacket hill plated over tie
puff. The trimming is a 2.inch band of
chinohilla.
For elderly ladies we noted an elegant
velvet mantilla, round behind and square
in front, shirred ut the back and held in to
the figure. A fall of Chantilly lace almost
covers the back. Wide lace aud passe-
around the edge. Large rosettes
and tassels, Price, $3.50. One OF the most
distinguished looking garments is a black
satin mantilla lined with white satin, beau
tifully quilted. A gathered Aounce, edged
with lace, is the trimming. The small
hood is lined with white satin. The back