The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1868-10-15
A Paris Habit, anu Foul at That.

The Paris correspondent OF the Lopdon Sl1r
writes as IolloWs:-
Among the curiosihes OF Paris life decidedly
are the small carts which. from 5 to O'Clock
every morning, call at the back gates OF em-
bassies, palaces. mnisteres, restaurants, hotels.
and gfeat houses III general, to purchasel the
remains of the entremetS, desserts, and dinners
in general, left, not by the upper ten thousand
only. but likewise by their servants, and sold
every morning by their cooks to the ennis.
saries OF a race of costermongers called
''arlequins,n whose stalls at the "Hallee"
are furnished forth by these "baked meats"
which made their debut at the tables OF those
who rule our destinies. the carts are closed
in, and recognizable by the sort of chimueys
in the top to admit OF free circulation of air;
the remains are thrown pete-nete into the carts,
and paid for by weight. You may imagine
it reaches the harlequin" stall. The first process
is the ri1ge, or sorting-a worS OF no small
difficulty when portions OF lobster a Ia Mayon.
naise besmeared with soup Ia Jullenne nave
to be extracted from the remains of a fruit tart
in which they are imbedded. The most pre-
sentable morsels are pared, cleaned C), and
arranged on dish, this process taking place
in some remote corner, far from human ken, as,
naturally, its mysteries would not attract Gus
toners. Strange to say, by II O'Clock these
scraps of rich mems plates are eagerly bought
up by a certain ella $ of poor who prefer the
savory flavor TO more wholesome food. What
cannot be sufficiently pared and arranged tor
human appetite is sold for the food OF pet house
dogs italian greyhouuds aud such like arsto =
cratic quadrupeds. The bones, no wever, found
in thif detritus are carefully put aside, and sold
to the manufacturers OF concentrated meat
essence lozenges, and by them, after they have
boiled them down, sold to the makers of animal
black, much in demand by house painters,
etc. But to return TO our friends the "arle-
quins.r This trade of buying up the remains
of our friends side dishes and second courses
is by no means bad one-mauy of those who
pursue it retiring at the end OF few years on
four or five hundred year. Pas NAL! The
next branch of this trade is the bakers en- Uieur,
which reminds one of the sign which attracts
many true lover of antiquities, IN orbond de
Meubles en- VieuX.n Ancient furniture, even
though stained by age and rust. we all appre.
ciate; but ancient bread, stained by ink and
mould, we scarcely relish. Yet it is a Temu.
neratiVe trade 10 collect the crusts thrown away
by college boys or dropped by these careless
Youngsters IN their Fairgrounds, tramplet on
and linked ofentlmes, but gathered by chT-
fOniers and sold to these secondhand bakers,
and by them sorted. The cleanest or these
soiled aud uninvitng crusts are dried i'll an
oven, rasped and then sold for the "croute au
pot,r with which soup all familiar witn French
cuisines are well aquainted Furthermore
these choice bits of old bread are cut up into
the three.coTnered morsels which, fried in
butter adorn the dishes of the vegetables, etc.
we enjoy at our iavoriIe restaurant. But there
vet remains mass of mudstained, dust-sole led
scraps winch once were bread this Is worked
up in mortar, pulYerZed, ana sold as the
chdpeilTe blanche in which our outlets are
dressed or to use the technical term, pane,
and as the chdpeluTe bruno which is siited over
the small hams called jdnlbORnedHG There still
remains dust which 1t has been impossible to
work up-this is blackeped in the oven and
reduced to an impalpable black powder, mixed
with honey, to which are adde1 few drops o
peppermint, and sold as an lntalll0le cure fol
toothache, tor which ailment il Is said to be
quite as eiiic lclous as any thing recommends
by the faculty."