The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1868-11-22
PARIS FASHIONS.

TAnlS ASF1IONS.
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ssrhe Day Of the Dead,,-FnshionabIe Grief.
Preparations for the Imperial Hunting Par.
ties-Leisure Hours and Industry.
PARIS Nov. 9, 1858.
Ladies having to preside over good many more
things nowadays than their husbands shirt buttons
and the PRESIDING over everything everywhere being
an extremely recherche employment win begin by
describing the last toilet by the Empress at the
Prvy Council Of Minister'S. 1t was, OF course, q
grave, rejecting robe, on which hues OF steel gray
met rays of studous brown the ensemble being bur-
nished armor. This very appropriate suit, uniting
sober contemplation with invncibe ideas, was
trimmed down the front with black lace bows from
the throat to the ground; 1t was made OF sultana
satin and the necktie in front was appet OF black
lace
This is not the only grave solemnty Of the week;
we have had strings and lines OF ladies' all clad in
mourning, at the Paris cemeteries. The "day OF the
dead" as it is called, Is pious custom, poetical
anniversary, on which the bereaved remembering
severed ties carry wreaths to the tomDs Of their de-
parted but this comforting custom has degenerated
into holiday, and II one parody can be more repre-
hensibe than another 1t is certainly that which turns
grief into fashion. Thus Is Ia / was not at all
moved at Pere 10 Chaise when, standing behind
Expresses viewed young widows In black cashmere
Scotch merino drapery, cut after the last Camargo
style, slowly and demurey gather their Grape wells
round them with no attempt to disguise they were
getting up an effect, and then with worldly grace
kneel before they placed their immortal garands on
those lowly mounds. Some we're certainly not
widows; there were sisters, cousins, orphans but
none In Trianon attire looked orphanhood, and
shall propose motion at next fashion meeting
that women who do mourn may keep to their trains
and be allowed to glide silently by shrouded In their
natural grief May these reject our new
styles energetically until the bill passes.
One more remark. A novel industry was inaugu-
rated this year at the gates OF these cities for the
silent. Dealers had laid out on slabs whole para
| regrets strung with beads, signs OF muslin on
hearts, and so on. People who were not provided
| not only purchase them ready made, but pay the
dealer to carry their purchases to the graves they
designated, with instructions where to hang them,
and with their best compliments OF course A plain
visiting card would Just as well have answered the
purpose as far a. the dead are concerned.
some lively toilets seen ct the first tea party given by
Don Carlos in Paris He Is now called the Duke OF
| Madrid Some young ladies well known In Partisan
society were introduced to the Duchess on this
sion, which introduction viii entitle them to
coming winter. The Misses VS. wore white
tuie, worked with green chenille; the Mar
under black tulle, much quilted and looped with
amaranthne roses.
The duchess was In white taneta, with plaid vel
vet ribbons.
Don Carlos, in black dress coat and white neck
tie; wore no other ribbon or order but the orange
and blue stripe his button hole 1t is called the
Order OF Christ by the Spanish and II is smile lie.
gion Of Honor.
Grand hunting parties are now meeting at the
grand dinner service for $50 guests has been de-
spatched to Compiegne aud sixty tnkers at this
mending and stopping up holes In the imperial
saucepans, Kettles fryngpans and ovens. imay,
therefore, add that II this first series OF visitors Is
well accustomed TO the lingering OF metal Messrs.
Pereire Mires Co., though 1t may melt quicker In
the more delicate hands OF the latter.
The great trouble with court danes last year at
Compiegne was how to spend short Intervals be-
tween Pompadour dressing and Pompadour undress-
WORK n y year Sotnnr ussu some OF co nssse
no such plebeian things as muslin frling
two Years ago; and every court dame then really
did try TO get poor baby but they are troublesome
for any Heightened period OF time; and when tho
Compegne season Is over there intervals left
TO Ill up. The new needlework over which curls
are TO dangle and long eyelashes lower, while the
gupure on netting, and these squares are really
worth comparison with the grandest feats done IN
point lace during the needle ages. Mr.. de Neu-
werkrke lately showed me q piece In his collection
OF treasures which thought must be unrivaled.
but our present court ladies are initiating It, and
nothing richer can be Imagined than boudoIr thus
fitted up over blue satin with buttercup trimmings
ruche tassels &c Another great novelty are photo.
graphs on silk Tor medaons ON SOFAS armchairs
and cushions It win be quite suggestive idea for
granddaughter to give her sire bolster with her
sweet rounded features upon It, and ten to one the
old gentleman would sleep all the better with her
cheek next to his, but 1t will not be agreeable TO
have drawing set OF faces on the backs OF ali the
chairs Some men are obliged TO be photographed
In spectacles, TOO which will add nervously argus
feeling to ladies' In panniers every time they sit
down.
There IL an innovation in bodices called vatican
AS the square cut would expose many to cold and
ladies' would all rather be consumptive than not In
fashion, the decotistte part Is filled with high dat
satin chensette matching the trimmings. Blue aud
green cloth costumes are being covered with satin
roueaux or piping Of scarlet velvet but the Com.
plegne morning robes are made OF ruby and laps
blue velvet over guipure pettlcoats tabiier or
white satin, with facings.
The Metternich rose has appeared. It'll violet pur
pie. The fe,T des lies, white velvet vanilla looking
mower Is much worn for looping lace up over poult,
Tor the rosy white of the heart In very effective.
Pomegranite and grenade are with red currants the
lavoTIte shades for poplin. Laps blue 10 being
trimmed with pink rouieaux.