The New York herald., 1868-03-25

thev NAV he stv,,sb Tuve and lice are now the ma
terias principally used In the conSMucs,n sarvice
fairy fabrics, but straw bOnnetS Tor ePflne
are considered chic; and chic you Know, Is every,
thing. Satin, lace metallic wreaths ana Osnad Oased
and flowers OF different hues now the preseroMsa y
trimmings. The enlargement OF the Donnel-tnant 70,
what there Is OF titles more In the trimming, wnea
is very elaborate, rather than In the bonnet itsel.
the sheIterins cape protected the back Of the head
and neck, and 'Coronetsn now pleasantly I'LL that
meaningless void that always gaped between cloWe se
incoming styles are in themselves the handsomeSt
and lightest, II not the most becoming. with when
we nave been blessed for many long years. They
are, to be sure, very eccentric In many respects.
But what OF that? Precisely the same thing has been
thought and said concerning every innovation
brought about In the modes by her moody daineshp,
tickle Fashion.
Cloaks, like everything else this year. have been
subjected to radical changes and In some respects
the change has been decidedly for the better. They
now include all sorts Of shapes and sizes from .d .ne
loped, and pointed, and slashed up the back and
gouged out at the Sides and turned over in front like
every variety OF style that the ingenuity OF invent
i've mantuamakcr ever devised the genius OF udi-
ccre las HnsN ever Bpge ~ ssan
and silk, and herein lies the change that was most
desirable. After three years of general use Il Is now
cast aside for the lighter and far more economical
and certainly more tasty trimming OF the present
day. Satin and silk are better adapted for summer
ornamentation, and are more easily replaced and
kept in order than bugles, which every one knows
were continually dropping on, thereby presenting
large, unsightiy nerstces to the eye, that give one
an unenviable air OF slovenliness
We are forced, through want OF space, to DEFER
fuller description OF bonnets and cloaks until to-
morrow.
MOURNING GOODS.
There is an increasing demand for black and that
color is destined TO become as fashionable IN New
York during the coming season as 1t was IN Paris ast
month. Mourning goods this spring are more than
usually elegant-the light summer fabrics especially
SO. Several novelties have recently made their APP
rege Hermann Is the most noticeable 1t Is double
twisted open mesh, Of silk and WOOL generally two
yards wide, very heavy, and Is worth from three to
six dollars per yard The canvas Hermann Is of smi-
lar material and manufacture, but OF a somewhat
1t all the more stylish Under the designation OF
'clotS'' we have the "'Tamise," heavy, wide mate
rial Of silk warp and wooen filing; the Henri %
eta,n consisting Of twiled silk and wool; the "Bis-
marck," Of a heavy black hue, and the "Parisi-
enne" which latter more properly speak
Is fashion, does not dictate that these eX-
quisite sombre colored materials shall be
reserved exclusively for mourning so that ladies' to
whom that color is becoming may year them with
OUT any sad necessity compelling. There s nothing
new IN the way OF serges or silks "gros grain" and
.foIlard' still beinS the favorites in demand In
poplms tnere the checkered and plaids Of all sizes
anu variepes, from the large snowy squares to the
saialeSt neat patterns that were so popular some
year, ago. Then, for change, there is the alpaca
fopin," the scheme" Of Lyle thread and wool; the
s'pongee," an exquisite silver gray, which may be
had IN every shade, and also in black and gray
travelling purposes; and finally the "granite poplin"
Some very beautiful designs in canbr1cs, plques
percales have made their appearance with the ad-
vent Of springs the white, with black stripes or small
bouatS being considered the more fashionable. For
breakfast ant ne0ttgs toilets we have had nothing
in the same line for years that could fayoraby com.
pare with them. The stripes vary from an elghth OF
an inch to one and quarter in width, the broader
ones not unfrequently being traced with vines and
flowers.
Mourning wells for spring and summer wear are of
the masked or round pattern of Brussels lace with
tabs at the back the latter gradually widening to-
wards the ends, which are invariably rounded, and
both veil and tabs trimmed with lace and Grape.
The heavy English wells still regarded with favor
Some exceedingly pretty mourning collars, with
Grape folds and futing, OF the Shaksperian style,
but not very extreme In depth, are also to be met
with. The horse shoe," or round collar, formed OF
2ouleaaE of Grape, still hold theirs own however,
and are likely to do so for some time yet to come.
For widows plain deep Grape cuffs, and collars to
match, are fashionable but others in mourning can
white puifed cuffs and collars, without black
trimming of any sort whatever, and these are very
stylish and pretty for deep mourning. Many new
patterns Of handkerchiefs arc coming In vogue, and
nearly all Of them have solid black borders Of every
conceivable design.