New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1868-08-05
AROUND CAPE COZ.
A NIGHT on THE OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES HIGH
LAND NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. OF THOREAU
A CAPE COD BILL OF FARE-NA NAAT


MOCH.
From Our Special Correspondent ....
WELLFLEET, Mass July SO-Cape Cod
aboupds in musketoes. 1t would be difficult to find
place where they larger noisier, pentler than
were those that buzzed around our ears last night For
fully three hours after lay down sleep impossible
We fought them for WHILE but IL Of Not
withstanding we killed muttudes Of them reinforce
ments continually up until at last obliged
TO succumb and retreat ignomnously under our ban-
kets But even this did not avail II they could not
attack in swarms they could come in single le and
come in they did, driving nearly desperate But 1t
takes more than musketoes to keep man awake when
sound sleep, leaving them to buzz and DITTO
at their pleasure, which they most certainly did, IA
on is beyond my COMPREHENSION They must be herbiv-
Our bed was mono OF tho softest but We slept
sOundy till after o'clock when we broke camp and took
10 the beach again The surf rolling IN heavily ana
We longed for bath, but having been warned OF the
danger from the underow we dared not risk being car
ried out TO sea- About half mile from our camp now
ever, came TO small cove where the water was com
paratvey quiet and the temptation was no longer TO be
resisted and hastily dvesiing ourselves OF our clothing
We plunged IL fairly took our breath away. for IL
cold eewater and after few plunRes we were
glad TO resume our cOthng. AS we approached inc
Highland Light we left the beach for the highlands and
the appearance OF the country changed rapidly and DC
Cdedy There here vast beds OF clay known AS the
Clay Pounds" and they are covered with light soil
which produces very good crops We saw corn and ota
The land that is not under cultivation has
very much the appearance OF old worn-out pastures,
being covered with moss and coarse grass We ar
rived at the Lighthouse at O'Clock, and break
tasted with one OF the Hghkeepers. After satisfying
our hunger we accompanied him 10 the lighthouse lie
was going up for his morning duties. The tower is built
Of brick and is co feet from its base TO the center OF the
and about 800 feet from the edge Of the bank THIS tower
is the third that has been built here and has been stand
ing II wears The frat was built In 1888 The light is
Fresne lens OF the first order having four burners The
oil is forced through the weks by clock-work, which
runs but two hours and half without winding. The
liCit mn ha mil
Paris at cost Of $4,000 Two ghtkeepers have charge
Of IT, and they alternately watch the hight from sunset
tower and register kept there OF all es that pass
inward or outward within sight The keeper told us
three months but this is probably very small esti-
mate, as large numbers pass during the night.
by no means as rapidly as one would be led 70 believe
from reading Thoreaus account According TO him, the
During the last year and half. the bank opposite the
Light has FALLEN away about 20 feet but as the Keeper
our host and hostess inclined to think that Thoreau
exaggerated things somewhat, or, a. our hostess re
Marked Cape Cod Isn't half bad as he made II out TO
be- and In proof she pointed 10 the orchard at the next
house. OF which Thoreau says that the trees th0ngh o
jumped over any OF them. Truly he must have been
ymnast for the trees from eight TO twelve feet
ali the orchards we have seen todaythe branches
the trunk very the ground instead OF at hight OF
five or six feet other localities. Our friends
remembered Thoreau as strange quiet sort OF man.who
stopped at the Light few days spending bis time by
hatchets that the children brought TO hiIn. From
the Lighthouse took path across the fields
to Pond Village about mile and half distant The 10
very pleasant little place containing about % helses
whatever All the men so to sea In the Summer, and
,his ind is the rule everywhere that We stop. 1t Is
unite pafS Of resort in the GUNNER for pleasure seek
ers and should luce 1t 10 be an excellent watering.
place for such Ike pass rev weeks o e snpmeG
in perfect quiet We stopped at the postofce but on
entering almost inclined to think had made a
mistake, though we saw the sign over the door, all
that We found was an old woman ironing She assured
our letters with her. From Pond Village 10 Pamet VII
lage, three miles distant the road 4 quito good Now
and then We passed through small groves OF sunted
pines which, though bearing unmlstakable marks OF age
were not more than four or hve feet high We
Planet Village, but, from experience, must say
that cannot recommend IT. We fshed patiently
for two hours, caught nothing. and gave up IN DIS
and man whom we met directed US TO restaurant"
Seeing sign which read oysters and ice Cream"
were considerably encouraged and on entering conf
IDENTIFY called for dinner. young lady whom We had
informed that they had no dinner Well had they not
some pie cake or anything OF the kind NO. they had
young lady hesated looked around the room for mo
rived at Weeet at o'clock this afternoon after tramp
Of five miles through the sand up hin and down. This IL
the peasanest place We have found yet. IL contains
about 22o inhabitants ana lies at the head Of
intending 10 go further bat hear such glow
ing accounts OF the blue hshing In The bay that have
determined TO stop over until tomorrow and try our
luck We have selected q camping ground just outside
Of the village and shall turn IN" have noticed
riably poor, and those are the horses and the
water. 1 have not seen decent looking nag yet.
and the water has fiat marshy taste that Is very disa
greeaDle. Another thing surprises some, that u.s.
that the people seem strangely ignorant in regard to dis
town. but every Of whom inquired the distance
gave us q different answer. One told five miles an
different varying between these two. should
judge that the real distance is about eight miles Then
again We were told that Wefeet about five miles
from Pamet Village, but after travelling than an
hour we met youth perched upon load of hay, and Of
miles" he replied. -Four miles" exclaimed we in as
constituent. "Wen," SAID he It's four miles or three
rods beyond stopped at house To get water
woman came TO the door whom judged by her phys.
question How far to Wellheet" With nasal twaug
foreign, she answered, Ma naa noch."
and We left
wELLFLEET-BLUE-F FISHING" YOU'VE GOT A
BITE, NEIGHBoRp--A FISH DINSBR-A SPIRIT
UALIST CAMPAIGNING AT HARwICH.
HARwICH, Mass, Aug. 2.-Wellheet is a great
place for fishing Such Of the inhabitants do not fol
low the sea engaged In waiting upon those who do
and consequently great part OF the business consists o
fitting vessels for the whale and maekere fisheries
The blue fishing Just is excellent ana at every flood
tide the bay is TO be full OF shng boats but as the
fish bite well only for about four hours during tide
hours before and two hours after hightide
the fishing carried Principally by such are en-
gagged In some other business and tae this pas
time. We broke camp early and took breakfast at the
hotel where made inquiries regard chances
OF taking sa down the bay. We we're directed 20 one
Capt Rich, whom assured knew better where to
find the bluesh than any other town and under
whose leadership should be most likely TO have good
luck We found the captain quite Iear and very soon
made the necessary arrangements and at 81 O'clock
aboard his boat running down the bay Our crew. beside
ourselves consisted Of the captain and old man. his
uncle, who as 1.-the ad sinewy as at
rs, though he had the appearance OF having |
weathered every storm that Cape Cod has since his
boyhOOd. sail OF half an hour bought us TO the fish
ing grounds, but Captain prophssed Indifferent sue
cess, the breeze hardly strsng enough The fish
swim near the surface, and caught by running line
out 200 800 feet and letting trail while at full speed
The velocity Of the boat 10 skip along the top
OF the water, and the hook Is baited with piece OF
white cloth, II has very much the appearance OF small
fish We ran lines and sailing back and forth,
waited patiently for the fish; but for long time
Several other boats In vicinity
and passed them could that their luck
no better than ours. Our Captain suggested that we
might have Jonah on board and for myself, had
begun 20 think that the rep0rt thA buesh plainly