The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1868-07-12
A TRIP ACROSS THE ANDES.


canic Pheuemcna-The Pampas Of the Ar
gentine Observation-Disclosures and Its Ruins
Life of the Haciendn-Charactcr and CGs-
toms OF the PeOpie-Cattle HerdinG the
Pampas-Ostrich Hunting-In the Indian
COuntry-Caught in a Snow Storm In the
Mountains.
MENDOZA, Argentine Republic, 1858.
The President OF Chile, the members OF the cabl-
net and most Of the diplomatic corps having lett
Santiago for few weeks summer recreation al tue
watering places and the seaside General fitzpatrick,
our Minister to Chile concluded to escape the not
and dusty WEAKNESS at the capital and make
short trip among the ranges of the Andes The ex-
petition was quickly fitted out, and con-
sisted of the General, the Secretary OF
Legation, Mr. Carpenter, the son OF our Consul
at Valparaiso; Mr.. Clark, and Mr.. Gellatly, an
artist of New York. Armed with Sharp's breech-
loading rines ana Colts revovers and accom-
panied by guide and four native servants, we
started on the Sd OF February from Santiago, intend
ing to be absent about three weeks. The cavalcade
that left the legation that morning would have
created sensation in New York. The South Ameri-,
can costumes the party the peculiar dress of the
servants, and the pack mules heavily laden with
provisions, &C., formed a picturesque group that
attracted no little attention we marched from the
fashionable district towards the road leading to
the pass; and If the HERALD were given to pic
torals an illustration of the group would be rather
novel and quite dp1'OpOs. Our route was by the San
Jose pass, and one days march through fertile
haciendas brought US to the gap, from which flows
the river Mapu, fed by the melting SHOWS upon the
peaks far in among the Cordilleras.
The Andes consist Of two principal ranges with
an average altitude OF about thirteen thousand feet
divided by valley some thirty miles wide. This
valley is shut up in many places by lofty barriers
crossing it and is full of small mountains. From
the sea. where the Andes rise in most places to the
height Of three or four thousand feet perpendicular
from the surf, to the principal range Is about one
hundred and fifty miles. This country consists
of rugged mountains, tracts of sand and valleys
rendered fertile by irrigation from the numerous riv
ers Thirty miles east Of Santiago enter the pass,
and following the foaming river ascend easily for
about forty miles, the road gradually lessening
the cultivated spots in the narrow and sometimes
preciptOus valley become scarce. One days march
in the mountains took us to the small town of San
jose, and next day we struck out on the mountain
path, Which winds along the cliffs of the river and
constantly becomes more rocky and narrower until
the train is compelled TO march in single
file, toilsomely picking its way past dan
gerOus precpices and among immense black
rocks OF volcanic origin. On the night OF the
second day we encamped the outskirts Of Guilt
walton and pasture. The ascent had already taken
usllp from hot and dusty plains into a temperature
quite cold at night, and next morning we set out
through stunted thorn bushes that disappeared from
the line of march after few hours travel leaving
nothing but black and rugged cliffs On this road is
most remarkable cascade. large stream Of water
pOurs the crest Of Cliff five hundred feet HIGH
falling short distance in CLASSY, unbroken sheet,
which gradually spreads until, scattered by the
winds, 1t descends in gentle shower to the base
so high Is the brink Of the fall that person may
tand fifteen minutes directly under 1t before the
fine rain into which the water broken by the
breeze can wet his clothing through. The prlsmatic
rays thrown of from the cascade are magnificent
and seen at great distance, and the view from
below Ii probably unsurpassed. The third day we
crossed lofty ridge and descended into beautiful
narrow plain. small river flows through 1t, empty
ing into clear lake of great depth and without any
visible outlet. Here we stopped one day to rest and
Craze our animals and shoot wild fowl, including
swans geese and o numerous variety Of duck.
Another days march along this valley and over
q large tract OF lava from an extinct volcano
brought to the base Of the first great ridge Ten
hours occupied in traversing the narrow, zig
gag path leading the summit to the other valley.
Men aud animals suffered considerably from the rari
ncation of the atmosphere, but time and patience.
brought safely up the almost perpendicular ridge
and down to the rivuets fringed with moss and
was bare but In many places the snow was from
I'VE to fifty feet deep, with a hard crust which
a person can safely walk in the early part OF
the day. day was occupied In reaching the
next ridge, the great Pontillo pass, 1880 feet
high. The ascent here was very lab0rious,
and In some places dangerous. Far as the
eye can reach are nothing but black peaks necked
with snow fields, and separated by tracks Of rock
piled in confused Masses over which 1t Is impossible
TO pass. We reached the ridge about two O'Clock In
the afternoon. For some distance we found It pre-.
ferabe to dismount and lead our animals, which
manifested great uneasiness, a. the rock was very
slippery and o m1sstep would have hurled US down
and crushed us far below Immediately on the
enough for one to pass at time, and so steep are
the two sides that II mule stands with his
fore feet on one side ana MS hind teet one
at the knees Here over 900 feet high. we paused
TO study the scene! Words cannot adequately de-
and Tupongati, respectively n, 900 and $4,000 feet
HIGH and on every hand the eye only met with dark
table space. The cold wind howled with terrific
violence over the Jagged ridge from which a few
but beyoni the crest and down upon the slope shell.
tered from the wind the sun poured q burning heat
which rendered 1t necessary for US to put on wells
Prom the summit the descent Ia abrupt for many
leagues until the path wtdens on the table land,
where cattle and goats are grazing. Half way down
the mountain we come upon the guard house OF the
frontier between Chile and the Argentine republic.
The road was barred by rude oontrivance Of logs,
and In the low, dark stone building swarthy on
cia received passport, taking list OF the per-
sons and animals composing our train and bidding
bue pidte. At this station duties are collected
on goods passing over che mountains; but a. there
are only one Official and servant 10 attend TO the
establishment II h not probable that Its revenues
amount TO much. That night we encamped az
the house Of the cordillera In lovely
meadow, and next day rested In camp. Large docks
OF parrots parroquets and other brilliant birds af
fordcd good shooting, but most Of our attention was
directed 10 collection OF humming BIRDS OF which
there were great numbers. These birds are remark
able for tn length and gaudy coors OF their plu-
mage and are eagerly sought after by naturalists IN
South America A short distance IRON the foot OF
the mountains vegetation ceases, and we emerged
upon vast plain Of sand and THORN bushes. with
only here and there, at wide intervals, hacienda
rendered fertile by artificial irrigation.
At one OF these haciendas, called Vista Flores, we