The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1868-12-17
MEXICO.

IfsoH Yield Compared win InoSo -. ~
vzda-Cosr Of Labor and Material.
EsrAPAn DEL ONO, STATE OF MRxico,
A ride on horseback from Mexico 10 Toluca,
through Lerma after having denied oneself the sad
die for many weeks Is not ordinarily an affair OF JOY
Your correspondent, ike Ward and other sight
seeing Anc,o-Saxon travellers, undertook this route
commencing journey OF q few days into the terra
Guile cte and the Pacific half OF the Mexican noun
famous backbone, on the 10th OF August-a date
which is usually set down as the most dlsagreeable
Of the rainy season, In consequence OF the abund-
ance OF water which usually falls at this time and
the resulting funess OF streams ANA muddiness OF
the roads, to speak lightly Of tho inconvenience of
finding oneself every afternoon, at about the
hours OF two to four, enyeloped in cloud.
lightning and rain. My fellow traveller, whom
! choose to Call "R.n and self had Tor some
days previous refused to read the late newspaper
accounts OF the robberies which had for some time
been perpetrated along this route, and thanked the
unucky star Of the robber chief Galvez that his late
meeting with some Of the government troops and
his execution would not permit him TO make our
acquaintance while we further permitted our thank
fulness to gush toward the guard OF troops which the
authorities have distributed along the most danger
GUS and robDer frequented passes. 1t Is, however,
perhaps due TO our courage to state that, relying
good deal on couple of the Sam Colt family, imme-
diately with us, and the supposed effect upon our
steeds OF whip and spur, We were prepared to deal
valantly with the enemy ana, Of course, save our
valuable lives. Tacubaya lay first In our way, but
we had been there often, has every VINO visits
this part OF the country. It Is but three miles from
Mexico and made noted Of late years as the place
where Marquee perpetrated his horrid butcheries
upon the persons and lives Of several medical gentle
men and students and other non combatants who
were supposed to entertain different political opin-
ions rom himself. Reminded OF his black inhu-
mainly, we pressed on to the southwest
ward, gradually ascending the mountain edge Of
the bowl In the bottom Of which stretches
the valley Of Mexico, In whose centre
hes now, as when Cortez first saw It, the capital Of
Eontcznma. Leaving the battle fields OF Churubusco
and Contreras on our left and Moiino del Rey ana
Chapultepec at our backs, our road for miles led
over surface barren and incapable Of cultivation
by any system OF fertilization yet known by reason
fthe utter absence OF soil or vegetable mould and the
wide-cast and deep layer Of volcanic ashes which in
the unknown past the great cnimneys which, stand
ing upon the edge OF the huge bowl overlooking the
valley, have thrown up to make vent for their
smothered fires beneath. The small village Of San
Mateo Is reached early for our horses fresh 1t
Is Sunday, and we note only that tho people are
"resting' and enjoying their best trousers" and
"zarapes y that the semi-ruined fronts OF their
crumbing habitations bear evidence OF the Spanish
nationality OF their builders, and that tho sunlight
OF progress has not shone upon tbs town hillside
THE LAND OF PLENTY.
And so ut early eleven we reach CuajlmnIpa, six
Mexican REIMBURSEMENT fifteen Enolish mies~ook
for breakfast and lind it, Since and before the reyo-
luton probaby-certainly since Messrs. Eaton ana
gences-the above little village has been the coal
for which the tortia and frtjole hungry traveller
has yearned. However long or short may have
been the bill OF fare at Cuajlmalpa in Montezumas
time the INNOVATION OF the Snansh hen has. TO the
delight OF the foreigner added TO it eggs boiled.
pork chop are before YOU and salad actually stares
y0u in the face while generous wine facctiously ogles
the weary traveller and honestly tenders its medici
nal Aid for the Remainder of the davis tourney which
reaches over and down mountains las CrnSesl and
tains Gas Crnces have heen nofed dmrin1 the nss
tory OF oil revolutions in Mexico a ona al the heat
strongholds in the neghborhood and have ACCORDING
" been resorted to- especaly by such forces While
threatened by euperiOr nunibera Here tho disfin
guished patriot uurist and General DsooIladn iasH
his life al the hands OF partisan band on Maruuez In
1901 Alone this ron,e were Somcht 1nsnv ~ ths nat
ties between the Snsniards and rennhi,can fronra
nnder HiSaloo ssnec,as the en1aUamsns nnns
history "a that 81 Ias Cuces which tooI niace ~,
thu I'd Of Ocfoher IRI0 HidaIgo ana AIenda Iec In~
the Mexicans and Colonel iruiilIo the Spanisrds
republican, cause tie State government erected \
monument In commernoration thereon and 10 the
memory OF uidaigo upon tho s0p OF . nugo poui-
jimalpa and Lerma This stone appears as 4 rude
base Tor the slender shaft which surinounts Il and Is
Of many tons weight From It. story relates HI
alro said mass on the morning following the victory
OF las Cruces The shaft Is OF trachyte and has com
memoratye inscript,ons upon it's four sides
Descending the mountain, at length after twelve
leagues are traversed from Mexico city Lerma ID ap-
preached by road one-fourth OF o mile In length
built through tho sheet OF shallow water known as
Lake I.erma. This ancient town has population of
perhaps 900 to 5000 and is Of Uncomfortable inn
further southwest, Elm which latter city r. and
myself put ourselves snugy away ct i've IN the after
noon after days ride OF over forty miles, Toluca
Is not an unpeasant city TO look upon; is capital OF
the state OF Mexico; its streets are OF good width
wei paved: It's priyate badiprs principally one and
two stories high and built OF adobe and stone and
externally present n credtable appearance az TO
neatness fhe publlc buildings are two stories hich
and occupy the most OF large square, having stores
and airy portals beneath Iis population NAV be c.
tmated at IS 900 souls and ts hotels fair The dis.
trlct OF Touca principally al agricultural one and
fs noted for lts production OF grain and swine Be-
tween thu city and Lerna very near the latter there
rises a river known AZ Tololothan, which, moving
westward cm,lties INTO the Pacific Ocean near san