The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1868-12-24
PERFUMERY.
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It's Origin, Its Use and Pro, <res. =. rsn
Art Among the Ancient. Tho Mareri.l nm.
Sources Of the Mat riaf Employ ed-Presen
Extent Of tho misunderstanding ef Perfumer,
In Europe and this Countrx,
The sreat Artincer Of creatisp-and we say 1t no
Tscverently-was the pioneer perfumef. He o.,
TO flowers the sweet breath Of fragrance. Our ~,
parents. In the garden Of Eden, drank In the All,
cltus odors Of that grand garden Of f.. ~
divers and their sweet a.. ., ., light Dris y
- : PARADISE, for aught we know.
II And twas indeed the perfume she'd
from flowers and scented flame that fed
III hi-timed indulgence In unfortunate genealogical
nvesugations lead to their expulsion from their hor
'cuiturai nome and compulsory attention to max
ps garments ana bread and living by the sweat Of
ielf lows. But the bright beauty Of flowers and
leir sweet fragrance sti remained-s great lessen
IL, as must be acknowledged, of the curse Of the
In
We could not well trace the subject or perfumery
irther TACK than the creation. To trace back the
Inject tllf 1t became positive nne art is more DIM
lit. The origin OF the art Ia, In fact, unknown. We
how, from what Moses tells us that centuries an
tior TO his time sweet-scented wreaths Of curling
noke rose from the rude affairs OF the primitive
Tvs. Profane historians recite the fact that per-
ines formed an important part OF the modes
I religious worship In the times OF Confu-
Us and Z0roaster and In the temples OF
icient Jerusalem. The most authentic records in
dee the beefth In the adoption Of perfumes as an
GENITAL auxiliary OF the toilet the Egyptians took
q lead, and that the next In order TO follow their
eimpe were the Assyrians, Greeks and Romans,
tin the Arabs, and lastly the European nations. 10
Wuld be deeply interesting 10 explore the progress
uhis arr 10 exploit the mysteries OF the toilet OF La
He Helene. the genuine Greclan maiden. whose
elusite perfumes as much, possibly, as her ex-
qsite beauty so madly infatuated Paris, and not
n enhancing modern persOnators In opera bOtL1e:
Y be able TO catalogue the perfumes used by
Apasia, the Roman matron; 70 give full record OF
u bewtching entertainments, greatly abetted, I'M
pfumes she employed; OF Cleopatra, through which
obtained such imperious mastery over proud
Ebony; to thread the mazes OF ancient
Peian and Turkish harems, and 80 on from genera
tn to generation, down to the expansively chig-
med and extensively perfumed beauties OF our own
q. The burning OF frankincense aud myrrh has
I'm known from time immemOrial. Pliny and
aeca write OF the compromising OF perfumes.
I old Roman mobiles were accustomed TO anoint
tmselves with precious oils three times day. A
rfume manufactured by one OF the early Roman |
Dles Franglpanl Is still In use and bearing his
me Ancient Persian kings were In the habit OF
CRYING their perfume boxes INTO , oatue. me
Dir banquets OF placing amulets upon the heads OF
vtors and chapets about their necks, ~ the same
le decorating their wine cups with gay garlands
Aong the Persians II was believed that the per-
fhe Of MOWERS had an exhiarating effect on the
md and imagination like that OF opium and
bheesh As proof, here Is what Namoura says IN
ne Light Of the Harem?'-
-'Tis the hour
That scattcrs spells on hub and flower,
And garlands might be gathered now
That, twin'd around the sleeper's brow,
Would make him dream OF such delights,
such miracles and darling sights
AZ CENT OF the sun behold
A. evening, from their tents OF gold,
Upon the horizon.
tere Ia another auotation-thls from the "veiled
Bphet OF Khorassen,r from that most beautiful
ag OF Zelica ssThere's @ bower OF roses by Bende-
Itrs streamn--which shows conclusivey an ac-
qntance with the art Of infusng the scent OF
fSers into liquid preparations, or, In other words,
II the Persians at the supposed date OF the sing
II OF the song knew how to make eau de Cologne
opther extracts, doubtless very similar to those OF
lain and Phalon a Son, At the present enjoying
sh worldwide celebrity
N the roses soon wihered that hung DER the wave;
ii blossoms gathered while freshly they snone,
A dew was distilled from their flowers that gave
the fragrance Of summer when summer was gone.
ut dropping the hypothesis OF history and poetry
oberiumes we hasten on to speak Of the manufac-
tt OF perfumes in the present day, the sources
Vince the chief material IL derived, the kind OF
4erial principally employed, the leading places In
Hope and elsewhere where perfumes are now
nhuiactured, ana having shown the rapidly grow
inincrease Ia trade IN this specially Of merchan-