Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1868-09-05

now. Some very pretty new suits Orderet
for early fall visiting at country houses ar
made of white mohair, with buff epaulette
and revers of colored satin. A fiat ruff
rut' on the cross and bound with the colo
finishes the bottom of the skirt. Accom-
Danying these were some very handsome
dresses in narrow striped, checked, ant
Manageable silks, which could be worn up
on almost any occasion. These dresse
were short and divided at the back int
immense lengthwise puffings which spread
out fan shaped towards the bottom ovel
petticoats made IN silk of the contrastins
color and trimmed with fiat ruches, three
narrow frills or one wide one. The from
breadths are perfectly plain. the bodies
high and trimmed square and low, the
sleeves long and ornamented with three
straight puffs, ruches or frills matching
the col and style of petticoat These
tresses are very stylish in effect
| and slender women, the petticoat
and paniers reducing in appearance the
height of figure. Short dresses of any
kind. it must be remembered, are no long
rr made to reach the top of the Raiter boot
but sufficiently long to just '''clear the
ground.". This was the length of the petit
coats belonging to the dresses we have just
described. Shot or changeable silks will
be very fashionable for the fall wear, and
are richly trimmed with q fringe made in
the two prominent colors of the silk headed
with braid or twisted piping made of
satin in the same colon. In dark rich
shades chameleon silks harmonize admira-
bly, with the tints. of an. India shawl for
visiting toilette. The bonnet to wear with
it Is small high chapeau of Italian straw
trimmed with velvet black lace and a
plume of short curled ostrich feathers in
two colors. &c This reminds me that feathers
also are to be revived this season, the
graceful willow feather and the long os-
trich plumes the most distinguished of all
ornaments. eseE sI33
All the world wears striped cambrics at
the present moment, the only difference
being that those with purses of moderate
length invest in a.couple or three, while
rich women order dozen at least at time.
The Marchioness de Gallifet has already
appeared on the Dieppe sands in sixteen
striped eambric dresses, all different ones
from the other. The prettiest was white
striped with cerise; the petticoat had wider
stripes than the skirt, and was trimmed
with five narrow flounces.~ The skirt, loop
d up both at the back and sides a Ia POM
,adouT, was bordered with single narrow
dounce; it was openup at the bach, the entire
ength, so as to form two wings, like what
Is called the sbee ,tunic." The chemise
russo matched the petticoat, and above it
all there, was small fichu high at the back,
open in front and fastened down with three
small bows of the same material Round
waistband, with rosette at the side. Small
black kishoes with high heels. Striped stock.
ings-in fact, stockings are now usually
sent home from the dressmakers to match
these striped cambria dresses.
There is strong, perhaps it would be too
much to say determined. effort in progress
20 abolish the small bonnets and Introduce
arger7 ones, but at present it does not seem
likely to succeed. The chignons are lar
ger than ever, and the latest style of bon
1ets very small and worn very high. The
ILLNESS given to the dresses behind compels
'he adoption of somewhatlarger hooped
skirt than has been worn for some time, but
{ can never reach the dimensions again
hat have made them ridiculous in times
past. Within two years they have been
worn in all sizes from one yard and three
quarters at the base to three yards and a
lalf round, and no recognized standard
having obtained, the demand has varied
With every floating rumor of fashion and
,very whim of the moment until dealers
neither know what to buy nor ladies to
wear. .t..-.....f ...-..., ..i.,-I,l -
The new styles issued for the present
md the coming season will, it is believed,
emedy the difficulty. The golden mean
Gems to have been found at last, and the |
hape is so adjusted by the leading manu-
dCtuA CLIO SddO JuC llOHb VI Tile remains |
l4t while graceful sweep and tendency |
o expansion is given to the back. The |
owest authorized size for ordinary wear is
wo aud half yards round at the base
his Is very moderate and suited to walking |
resses; the next size is two and three
quarters around, the third, three yards
his last is not too large for very tall lady
or street wear. These sizes may be con-
idered standard, a very short person re-
nirinn q cfil crno11or ond nrfa
kirt than the two and half yards, should
INQUIRE for the largest misses size.
But what of the latest atrocity in fash
on, the ab0minable pdniers9 The only
lace, as yet, where these have fiourished
and without restraint, is Sara
oga. Are they to reappear, IN all their
ideous deformity, during the coming fash
enable season, in New York? Ii women
we're really the. mere puppets which soci-
ty endeavors to make them, we should
ave no objections TO see them rendered
eformed, .grotesque,. or ridiculous, any
more than we should to witness the vaga-
les of Punch and Judy show. But, to
ee real women, women of flesh and blood |
nd heart and brains, lend themselves to
uch aping of horrible deformity, is worse
han saddening; it makes one tear for them.
L dreadful retributiOn-unnatural born
hildren, for instance nation in the fu-
ure of wretched. hump-back and crooked
ionsters. We have no disposition to speak
# the machinery by which the shameful |
pparent excrescence is produced. There
re "panierD hoop skirts complete in them
elves, but as general rule the panier bus
lie is detached, and can be worn or re-
moved at pleasure. OF course the form of
he pdilier must be perfected underneath
he dress and other skirts, or the fullness in
mere textile fabrics would collapse, and the
ty fish bump be entirely lost. A more fit
ing compliment to the donkey panier could
ot be found than the "Grecian Bendn or /
he-''colic stoop," as it is more popularly |
allied, and the mincing step now affected |
" society young ladies. Such absolute |
ILLNESS is not worth talking seriously
bout, and should not be considered as re-
Letting discreGit upon women generally, |
my more than the drawl of the dandy |
hould serve as conclusive evidence that
he male sex are destitute of brains. Still, |
We must confess that we neversee the fash
onable hump and bend and step without
Wishing that we could avail ourselves ofl
n old-fashioned privilege and give the ex-
ibitor of these doubtful airs and graces a
-ook spanking. There are addle-headed |
-oung men, generally very young men,
Who, If it were fashionable for ladies to |
wear steeples on their heads, would de-.
ightedly follow in the train of the tallest |
teeple; but do not think from this that |
zen admire absurdities in women. There |
$ not man, with the smallest grain OF |
ommon sense, who does not laugh at affec-
ations and falsities and set them down as
General weakness and Stiffness on the part
# the whole female sex.
A very neat thing is lady's fashionable |
lecktie of grenadine embroidered in lace
'attern; the, ends are passed through |
gold enameled scarf ring and the loop
boye drawn in like loose knot. Silk
les bordered with lace are worn In the
anne style. i.,- .s..} -
1t is almost superfiuous to give a seper-
te article to cloaks, nowadays, when
loaks, as such, have become almost SUPER
uous articles of costume.
There are still garments, however,
dapted to occasions, which pass under the
ame of cloaks, and there are other gar
and fanciful, used for morn
ny promenades, seaside rambles, and trav-
N ar urrans which on,1ld ont iuctIu oona