The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1868-10-27

occasionally uS6u COlOr IOT Jnelr races, 'k0S 5a-
line" one OF the characters in the play, emu.
meratiDg the faults of her sutors, says:-
THE fifth paints, and has always good color
Tor what he speaks"
Bulwer, in his artificial Chanqelinq QG5O),
tells Sometimes they think they have
too much color; then they use art to make
them pale and fair. Now they have too little
color: then Spanish paper, red leather, or
other cosmetical rubrics must be had" Even
Waller complains of his 'Sacharissa:"-
"Pyemalions fate reversed is mine;
His marble took both flesh and Blood
All that worshiped rs divine,
That beauty 7lO,O It's understood
Appears to have no mole OF life
Than that whereof he framed his wife"
And the Puritan Stubbes, in 1858, observes:-
"And first 1 will begin to touch
Upon this daubing paint;
1t makes my Muse grow fain"
The Court ladies of Charles IL used paint
very freely.
The author of "Eugland's Vanity" (16S3)
is very severe upon the subjeca of paint. He
ends his remarks thus:-"The French have
good litany: From beef without mustard,
a servant which overvalues himself and
from ,ooman which painteth, good Lord, deliver
u.s."
Mr.. Fairholt says Spanish paper was used
for the purpose. 1t was made up into
little books, and leaf was torn out and
rubbed upon the cheeks, the vermilion pow
der which covered it being thus transferred to
the face.
In the Spectator (17l1), an unfortunate hus-
band complains:-"As for my dear, never man
was so enamored as l was of her fair forehead,
neck, and arms, as well as the bright Jet of her
hair; but to my great astonishment, found
they were all the effect of art. Her skin is so
tarnished by the practice, that, when she first
wakes in the morning, she scarce seems young
enough to be the mother of her whom carried
to bed the night before. l shall take the
liberty to part with her the first opportunity,
unless her father will make her portion suit
able to her real, not her assumed countenance.
Walpole says that Lady Mary Wortley Mon
tagu not only used the cheapest white paint
she could get, but left it on her skin so long
that it was obliged to be scraped off her face.
Beautiful Lady Coventry's husband used to
chase her round the dinner-table, that he
might remove the obnoxious color with a
napkin!
Respecting ace-paintng in modern times, we
know from advertisements that tits extensively
practised. Some paints were particularly
used by actors. Mime Rachel, in her exami-
nation before the Insolvent Debtors Court in
1862, stated that her profession was lucrative
one, and that she sometimes obtained
more than twenty guineas for enamelling
lady's face. So that a lady may be swarthy
or wrinkled, withered or sallow, and yet ap-
pear before the world in the blooming graces
of sweet sixteen, and
"With curious arts dim charms revive,
And triumph in the bloom OF hfty'hye."
We certainly prefer
| "a woman's face with Natures own hand
painted"
| A fashion analogous to that of painting, and
which prevailed about the same time, was
| that of wearing black patches cut in various
shapes. Glapthorne, in his Lady's PrioAege
(l64O), says:-"Look you, siignor, if It be
lovers part you are to act, take black spot
or two. l can furnish you; I will make your
face more amorous, and appear more gracious
in your mistress eyes," In a rare broadside,
printed in 1646, styled "The Picture of an
Anglish Anticlze,' we have a cOpper-plate of
a fTst-rate exquisite in the period, who has
his face spotted with patches. But this was
only an old custom revived, for the practice
was fashionable with the Roman dame in the
latter days of the Empire. Regulus, a famous
Roman lawyer, used to anoint his right or
left eye, and wear a white patch over the
right side or the left of his forehead, as he was
to plead either for the plaintiff or defendant.
In "Wit Restored" poem printed in 1868,
we are told of a LADY,
For pimples and for scars;
Here's all the wandering planets signs,
And some of the fixed stars,
AL eady gummed, to make them STICK
They need no other sky"
There is curious engraving of a lady with
patches in the form OF triangles, half-moons,
stars, and crosses, in the title-page to q SER
mon by Andrew JONES' entitled MorbuS Sdtani-
cur; or The Sin of Pride (l5th ed. 1860, in
which he speaks of it as a common custom with
our proud ladies ''to spot their faces with
black patches" Mr.. Pepys, it appears, did
not object to them, for he declared that his
wife with two or three patches loked far
handsomer than the Princess HenriettV. The
same gentleman says that the Duchess OF New
castle wore many patches "because of pimples
about her mouth.' The author of "God s
Voice against Pride in Apparel (l6S3) says
that the black patches remind him of plague
spots:-"And methinks the mourning coach
and horses, all in black, and plying in their
forebeads, stand ready harnessed to whirl
them to Acheron, though pity poor Charon
for the darkness of the night, since the moon
on the cheek is all an eclipse, and the poor
stars OH the temples are clouded in sables, and
no comfort left him but the lozenges on his
chin, which, if he pleases, he may pick off for
his cold.''
A writer in the World, for 1894, says
'"Though have seen with patience the cap
diminishing to the size of a patch, have not
with the same unconcern observed the patch
enlarging itself to the size of cap. 1t is with
great sorrow that | already see it in possession
of that beautiful mass of blue which borders
upon the eye. Should 1t increase on the side
of that exquisite feature, what an eclipse have
| we TO dread But surely it is to be hoped
that the ladies will not give up that place to
{ plaster which the brightest jewel in the uni
verse would want lustre to supply" Tn,
J present generation may possibly witness {
) revival of the fashion, as it has witnessed tn,
/ temperance of the hoops, high-heeled boots
4 | long gloves, ETC., of the Gregorian period. Al