Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1868-10-27
.0blo Statesman.
.MYsTERIEs OF PARIs.,
Horrible RevelariOns-The Secrets
Of the French Kitchens I'm
ryeiled. .,l.,tra f-se l'g-r-j

| .lf- ''M1 EAAES OF FAAAAS." i.t
Horrible notwithstanding Secrets
Of the French Kitchens Un-
- The Paris correspondent of the Lon
don Star writes as follows :,a-a 3a1 si y
Among the curiosities of Paris life de-
cidediy are the small carts which, from
FIVE to six every morning, call at the
back gates of embassies, palaces, minis
teres, restaurants hotels and great
houses in general, to purchase the re-
mains of the entrements, desserts and
dinners in general, left, not by the upper
ten thousand only, but likewise by their
servants, and sold every morning by
their cooks to the emissaries of race of
costermongers called "arlequins," whose
stalls at the "Halles" are furnished forth
| by these "baked meats" which made
their debut at the tables of those who
rule our destinies. The carts are closed
in, and recognizable by the sort of CHM
neys in the top to admit of free circula-
tion of air; the remains are thrown pele-
nsele into the carts, and paid for by
weight. You may imagine the as
pect presented by this ol1a.podriada
when it reaches the "arlequin': stalE--
The first process is the triage, or sorting
"a work of no small difficulty when
portions of lobster la Jullienne have
to be extracted from the remains Of
a fruit tart in which they are en-
bedded. The most presentable NOR
sells are pared, cleaned, (f) and ar
ranged on dish,l this process
taking place in some remote corner far
fromhuman ken, as naturally its myste-
ries would not attract customers. Strange
to say, by twelve o'clock these scraps of
rich mems plates are eagerly bought up
by certain class of poor who prefer the
savory flavor to more wholesome food.
What cannot be sufficiently pared and
arranged for human appetite. is sold for
the food of pet house dogs, Italian gray
hounds. and such like aristocratic quad
rupeds. The bones, however, found in
this detritus are carefully put aside and
sold to the manufacturers of concentrat-
ed meat essence, lozenges, and by
them, after they have boiled
them down, sold -. to i. the
makers of animal black, much in demand
by house-painters, etc. But to return to
our friends, the ''arlequins." This trade
of buying up the remains of our friends
side dishes and second courses is by no
means bad one-lnany of those who
pursue it retire at the end Of a few years
on four or FIVE hundred year. Pas Mall
The next branch of this trade is the ba-
kers en- uieur, which reminds one of the
sign which attracts many a true
lover of antiquities, Moribond de Nue.
bles, en- Kieur." Ancient furniture,
even though stained, by age and
rust, we all appreciate; but an
cient bread, stained by ink and mould,
we scarcely relish. Yet it is remuner-
ative trade to collect the crusts thrown
away by college boys or dropped by
those careless youngsters in their play
grounds, trampled on, and linked often
times, but gathered by chiffoniers and
sold to these second hand bakers, and
by them, sorted. The cleanest of these
soiled and univiting crusts are dried in
an oven, rasped, and then sold for the
"croute an pot" with which soup all fa-
miliar with the french cuisines are well
acquainted. Furthermore, these choice
bits of old bread are cut up into the
three-cornered morsels which, fried in
butter, adorn the dishes ofthe vegetables
etc, we enjoy at our favorite restaurants.
But there yet remains a mass of mud,
stained, dust-soiled scraps which once
were bread; this is worked up in a
mortar, pulverized and sold as clapelurt
blanche in which our outlets are dressed
or, to use the technical term, pane; and
as cAapelure bruno, which is sifted over
the small hams, called ,jam6onneaur.-
There still remains dust which it5has
been impossible to work up-this il
blackened in the oven and reduced to ar
impalpable, black powder, mixed witt
honey,to whichtis added a few drops O
peppermint, and sold as infallible cure
for toothache, for which ailment it ii
said to be quite as efficacious as any
thing recommended by the faculty..
Table Talk and Opinions of Ma
| DOleOm the First.