The New York herald., 1868-03-25
SPRING FASHIONS.

SPRING FASHIONS.
"Opening Day'' in the Observation-Disclosures
and varieties-B0nnets, Dress Goods, ClOaks
and Trimmings.
The sun OF this morning will usher in an eventful
/ day for fashion. day fraught with fantastical
vagaries; direfu changes, perhaps; many new, but
extravagant fances and ecstatic, bewiderng per-
plexy Of colors shades materials and styles; for to-
day is "opening day." and opening day according to
dame FASHIONS calendar is the most important day
in the whole year. 1t as eagerly looked forward
to by the ladies as is the glorious Fourth Of July by
Young America or the 4th Of March by newly
elected President Of these United and disunited
States; and should the weather prove fine we antci
pate not only an immense gathering Of rustic mil
liners and nOdises from inland cities and pro-
vincial towns, but also goody turn out OF stately
elegantes and metropolitan bellies There are
myriads Of charming and unique tribes Cd awaiting
the critical inspection or the ladies or our beau
monde, and doubtless the enhancing bliss that will
be experienced by them in the serene contemplation
Of such soul enhancing objects as Vandyked and
scoloped cloaks Spanish mantilas, mantllla bon
nets and bonnets la dladem win be only equaed
by the delightful pleasure that will be afforded them
when the approaching genial weather permits them
to disport in the bright sunshine arrayed In these
same "trifes," better known as ''fneries." Amaze
ment and surprise will greet them at every turn,
and marves OF curiousy wrought patterns and specl
mems Of fairy workmanship in ribbons, silks, laces
and flowers will pop out from every gloomy nook and
corner as If at the bidding Of some necromancers
wand, to captivate the heart and dazzle the eye,
while countless tongues rapturously echo the nspr
ing refrain Of "grand |" magnificent ~ and ''beau-
tiiul ~ Our mantuamakers and milliners to-day, II
never before, Will be all attention, politeness and
condescension. They will not only obligingly
hibt their commodities, but will feel grateful to you
for examining their various articles; even II they
know you are not inclined to make a purchase, they
will at least endeavor so to persuade you. Sacques
and cloaks that were originally invented to keep out
the cold but which curtailed and slashed up
the back and sides, we presume to let the cold in
again, will be tried on, and taken of, and praised,
and condemned, while charming "airy nothngs" in
the shape Of bonnets will pass from hand to hand
amid such exclamations '.perfect loves" and
'.lovely ducks,n which we take for granted means
something superlativey grand.
The close propinquity of the vernal equinox to the
spring opening Is too palpably unpleasant for
pleasurable antcipations but we have escaped the
storm nicely this year and everything now augurs
favorably for a most auspicious day. The French
have neat saying to the effect that March is the
month of tempests, OF sermons and OF concerts,
which saying we might appropriately adopt with the
very expressive addition that Is .sc re nc :..h Of
"fass and feathers" No other month in the year
brings such Inexplicably sweet and welcome tribua-
ton aud botheraton to our caterers OF fashion, nor
witnesses such vast amount Of importing OF foreign
laces, ribbons and feathers and, besides "Opening
day" must always occur in March. But the harmony
and unanimty OF other days has in measure de-
parted and the petty jeaouses and dscords at
present prevailing among our neodtstes came well
nigh Obteratng the time hOnOred feast OF the vernal
opening This deplorable catastrophe, however we
are glad to say has been obviated through the better
by some of our leading millners, and we
trust, that next year all OF their sup
posed grievances VIII be buried in oblivion ion
one grand gala day OF fashion out of the three hun
dred and sixtyfve that we devote to fighting lfe's
capricious battles. Some few independent openings
have come or from time to time during tn past
week, but what Is known as the general opening
morrow evening. The following are the names Of
the establishments that will hold openings to-day:
BRoApwAYIA; T. stewart Lord A. \ Taylor @ Jack lack
ings, Nine. Demorest james Tucker, Mime. Bonpart
\. Thompson Co., Mme Cohen q Co., q. w. Bass
ford, Nine. Lovett, IRA Beard.
CANAL sTREEr.-Mrs Brodie Mrs. Startling, Jerome
USIoN SouARE-Miss G. NJ oney.
FIFTH AvENUE.-M. A. Douglass.
BREvooRT PLACE.-Mrs. J. Il. Davidson, Nine.
CLINTON PLAcE.-Goldcn Co.; Taylor, Moch-
GREAT JONES srREEr.-Mmc Buhlmeyer.
THIRD DAvENUE-HARLEM.-Mrs.G Grifths.
DIVISION STREET.-Openhym Il Trisdorfer.
SIXTH AvENUE.-JameS j. Higgins.
BLEECKER STREET-Foser Brothers.
RETROsPECTION OF THE NODES
Before proceeding to describe the new attractions
we will indulge in Retrospective glance in the glass
OF fashion" and ascertain II possible, what has been
transpiring during the past twelve months. During
that time everything has been subjected to altera
''trnes," that were afectionateiy admired have
been discarded altogether. From head to foot trans
formation Is dscernabe, and 1t is not venturng too
much TO hazard the prediction that, should the pre-
sent deecable order OF change continue at the same
that time we shall be scarcely able to recognize our
selves. Coaks, perhaps, have undergone greater
transmuatons and alterations than any other article
OF female wearing apparel. They have been cut and
hacked and slashed into every conceivable style,
until there Is hardly semblance OF the good old
wrapper left. The shape OF this article, aud the
sleeve, have not escaped the wholesale dissectlng
which latterly obtained such mischicvous freedom.
But TO be Just, we must admit that the new styles
are remarkably handsome: and are evidently as COM
Portable as they are pretty. For indoor toiiettes
dresses have been perceptbly heightened. The skirt
Is still gored, Is as long as narrow and as close
fitting rs ii was during the winter. Evening toilets
during the year suffered from time to time severe
and very unhealthy scoopngs out in the front and
back; but glad to that high corsages and
open sleeves OF tulle are now being introduced.
Crnoine too, has had its day. and is fast being SUI
perseded by small jupons OF puired harcloth or OF
merino with only few steels at the botom even
these, IL Is thought viii in time give way for the
stately 'bustle of ancient fame. Where the skele-
ton skirt still retains its hold II has been altered 10
plain front and puledon sides IN imitation of the
printers of the last century; and this brings us TO
IL
Fashion, never content to let wen enough alone s
continually signing for change and variety: but
cecds very seldom in startling the world by onering
to her devoted and enslaved worshippers anything
thar can be justly termed new. When all else fails
she dives into the dusty depths Of bygone ages; ran
sacks past and forgotten centuries for new, yet
old modes, and by a few trinng alterations or ad-
ditions here and there passes them off upon
her blind votaries something novel and interest
Ing, In this enlightened age we are apparently hun
dreds OF years behind hand In matters pertaining to
dress; and rs for styles, we Americans have never
lpery or dresses that can ever conscieniously be
digni1cd with the title of "origina" Neither here
nor In Europe can modiseS create or invent; they
can but initiate and copy. We this In the pres
ent styles, for 1t seems as though all the old fashion
plates for centuries back are being consulted 10 ena
bic our enterprIsing mners and mantuamakers
to get up something new(D. The present dresses are
exact counterparts OF those worn during the reign
OF Louis XIV. OF France; and we have only to call
attention the Marie AntAinetfe ichus cniffurea