The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1868-07-24
THE FASHIONS.
The Changes of the nonth-JuIy Modes.

The July number of la Beau Monde dis
courses of the prevailing fashions as tollows:-
"lf lady were asked to express in q couple
of words what changes have taken place in the
fashions during the past month, she should
reply, even if she did not, shorter and skim
pier.' Crinolne had such rage, and became
so unbounded, that it was only natural to
expect q very violent reaction. But nobody
could have anticipated such a state of things as
now, exists. A little more, and a long step wilt
not be possibility, Again. ladies blessed with
a profusion of hair having dressed it in the
prevailing style, and having adopted the ex.
treme of fashion, present very unpleasing
appearance. Some judgment should be used in
these matters.
"For our parts, we believe the want of pro-
portion now evident in all the fashions will be
compensated by the absolute introduction of the
farthingale itself, and the abandonment of the
many shapes of imitation of that adjunct which
the last two months have been indusriously
hatchipg, and which have this month taken
something like decision of shape.
"Assuredly, the hips must be draped in some
manner. 1t is quite impossible that the totally
narrow skirt, utterly unrelieved can prevail.
Of the eight figures with which We present our
readers this month, scarcely one is plain at the
1.-THE hair is still worn at the summit of the
head in Paris, but this style has not been
adopted in England by the very best people.
'The sbort.dress ball has had the effect OF
reducing the length Of the trains, while, at the
same time, they are somewhat filed out behind.
1.-THE proper length of an out door dress is
ground, while these skirts are now relieved
somewhat from their meanuess of appearance
ether by fiat frills--sometimes two, one above
the other-ruchings, or fiat hutings.
"Ot the extraordinary and chaotic shapes of
what may be called over-skirts we can scarcely
| venture to say anything. They sometimes take
the shape of rounded aprons in front, sQuaring
off into jacket line behind, the whole COM
pleted with long wide knotted ends. Again. q
sort of George III period, halt-square, in the
material OF the dress, is combined with half
| loose bodice. which is completed with falling
! ends behind. In other cases, sort of curtain
diapered skirt in gauze, black or white, is draped
| over the uDder.skirt, swept about the dress,
raised behind at the waist, and completed by
| falling ends. In other cases, from cuira asse
| gardle flows loose drapery of the material of
| the dress, which, being looped underneath to
| the waist again after falling few inches, gives
the idea of an antique Grecian bodice, an effect
| enhanced by the sweeping and crossed drapery
| flowing over the skirt.
"In other cases, to the skirt of the dress is
| given the exact semblapce of q petticoat be-
cause the material is not used at all in the
upper-skirt, which is looped up all the way
round, while over the back falls the long bo wed
ends OF Marie Antoinette fchu, worn so low
over the bodice as to give at its upper line the
outline of evening dress. In these cases the
| whole of the upper skirt, the dchu, the bow is
made of the same pompadour silk always q
diaper OF bouquets upon dark ground, fire.
quently black. The petticoat being generally
made of light coored material, the contrast is
most marked and deliberate.
| Sometimes the rounded apron style Is 80
managed that it reminds one OF the leather
apron of sapper and miner.
"Sleeves for outdoor dress remain quite plain
in cut. They are generally trimmed with epau-
lettes and wristbands In character with the fat
trimmings of the skirt,
"For evening dress, sometimes the half
square, of the material of the Dress as it passes
over the shoulder, forms the sleeve. In other
cases, when the bodice is cut square in front,
ths sleeve is fiat and almost angular, while, in
other cases, actually something like melon
| sleeve is to be seen,
"Jet is not to be seen, and gold, however, is
gradually creeping into popularity"