The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1868-05-08
there is change, and the fashion is some

there ia a change, and the fashion is some
thing else.
It is about two years since the short dress
first made its appearance, and it was not till
the past winter that it became general, or suf-
fciently popular ladies to feel satisfied as to
its permanence. Old dresses were made over,
or scant pattern sometimes made up for
convenience; but it was long time before
ladies could make up their minds to purchase
a handsome mcterial and deliberately have it
made up into short "suit."
These suits are now universal, and have eff
fected fatal change in the general aspect Of
the promenade. Some are made with only
skirt and pelisse, others have two skirts and q
sac, or pafetot, cut into the form like basque
at the back, and crossed as small shawl in
front.
Street suits are uniform in one or at most
two colors, and if this idea is carried out in
every detail of the costume the more elegant it
will be considered. In fact this harmony, COM
pleteness, uniformity, or whatever we call it, is
lust now the truest test Of the ladies. Many
attempt 1t, but very few achieveit,
THE stPANIERs."
These are the latest novelty, and already
hooped-skirts have been filed with enormous
bustles to wear under them. La painters con-
sists simply ofa gathering Of tho hind folds Of
the skirt in such Way as to allow then to fall
over in bouillon upon the lower part OF the
skirt. The arrangement is as simple as it is
absurd, but it requires to be done correctly or
it is supremely ridiculous, and not 3 few young
ladies have attracted the attehton Of crowd
by their effort to effect amateur pdnlers and
the grotesqueness Of their appearance when
they ventured courageously into the streets.
Paniers for short dress are effected by
lengthening the upper skirt somewhat at the
back, and running q drawing string from one
side to the other through the centre of the
back breadth. The front breadtA is inserted
the sides being concealed by ,osettes, bows
and ends, sashes or some other ornaments.
T would not advise any one to attempt pam
ier on their own account, without first having
seen correct model. In full iress, however,,
many ladies' improyise them very. respectfully
by tying up the train with wide sash, and
arranging the folds over the tol7,ure, for / am
ashamed to say the old fashioned hustle is re-
vived sometimes IN sdf hair Goth, sometim es
in springs which are shaped to form the hustle
at the back Of the hooped skirt
The latest style Of hoopee-skrts are horrible.
In addition to the enormous hustle or wide
shelf which sometimes extendsto the sides, as
well as across the back-there is broad train
which destroys the beauty and de!egance OF the
trailing-dress. Fullness at the back, stretch
ing Of into long, narrow quo'e, is the effect
Qs
endeayoring to make the trail have broadened
the skirt so that the length 6 the dress is
taken up unnecessarily and thepeculiar grace
of the style wholly lost.
BoNNETs.
Bonnets are becoming smalle: and smaller,
and there is good reason to believe that in
short time they will vanish altogether, to be
superseded BY simple coiffurss Of lace and
flowers. Spangled and crystslzed lace, as
well as plain white lace, are much used upon
bonnets the feecy folds Of the lace adding
greatly to the beauty Of blooming youthful
face. The majority Of the Dolnets are made
of thin material Grape or illusion. Straw
cords bands, and straw flowers are much
used. One Of the prettiest bOnnets is Of la
vender Grape fulled over fanchon frame, with
folds Of lavender silk around the edge, and
narrow rufae OF silk-the edgenotched hed-across
the back. The ties are narrow with Grape
strings falling over them. CrystaliZed lace is
festooned across the inside, with pink and
white flowers. A blue Grape is made OF folds.
The strings are OF Grape, edged with white
lace, and are joined on the top, near the front,
and fall over the sides.
The ribbons used on bonnets are al narrow;
No. 16 is the fashionable width. White straw
color, blue, pink and Lavender are al, in de-
mand; but the Leading and prettiest color rs
the apple-green. There has never been q
display, used in decorating bonnets. Indeed,
the fashionable bonnet will be made up Of lace
or tulle, and clusters and wreaths of flowers
that drop to the shoulder. Among the recent
lmportations are beautiful vines with trailing
tendrils and leaves, and messy verdure that
closely resembles that Of the forest.
The new style of hat has q high sugar-loaf
crown, with brim wider than that OF last
wear. The latest is Of brown straw, the crown
sloping up small, and fiat on top; the brim on
one side is wider than on the other, and turn
ing up, is spanned by velvet band. Hats
with low crown and narrow dropping brim are
also worn. A showy round bat il of pink silk,
with pink spangled lace streaners.
DRESS FASHIONS.
Rich silks are worn for evening dress to
some extent, but the figured silks are more in
vogue than the elaborately embroidered, and
the recent importations are ,haste and effec-
tive in design. The French gray is most fash
ionable for dinner dresses Or evening wear,
and when trimmed with rich lace, and lace
sash to match, worn over the full train, it is
superb. The new green color in silk ls much
admired, but has not yet become general IA
vorite. For travelling dressesserge is popular.
Fercales and piques will be So much used for
morning wear as ever, and make the neatest OF
home dresses. A fine linen, n narrow stripes,
is something quite new, and makes tasteful
morning dress, more desirable than cambr1c.
For suits, the fine chene silks are in vogue,
and are q somewhat newer style than the small
checks Of narrow stri pes, in brown and white,
or black and white, and which are also much
worn.
For full dress the train il worn very long.
the back breadths being straight and full, and
the sides and front ones gOring, with few
plaits. The panier skirt is rev, and not yet
generally adopted; though having many ad-
mirers, there is some doubt of it's becoming q
favorite style. 1t is becoming to tall, slender
form, but when adorning sDut one the PAN
ier loses its charm.
Short dresses, in suits, aie fashionable for
the street, and the most elegant are Of black
silk. A novelty in suits Is of changeable
French serge, the two back breadths fulled,
panier style. The bottom Of the lower skirt
has q narrow iounce, the upper one is in points
trimmed with fringe, with three satin folds
above it Of the darkest shadeof the material.
The sack has mantilla fronts that cross, form
ing two points, and trimmed with fringe and
folds; belt with bows and sash OF the same
material as the skirt.
The 'sfuIl dress styles br the watering
places will consist probably of dresses pulled
out at the back and sides over panier hooped
skirts, open or Marie Antoinstte sleeves, very
low bodies, and Marie Antoinate fchus, CROSS
ed upon the bosom and tied at the back. Paint
and powder dd liblt,tnl.