The New York herald., 1868-03-01
THE LATEST FASHIONS.

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Fashion. with her fantastical yagaries for one
whole year, has dictated to, and ruled her wor
shippers and loyal subjects with very rod of iron.
but in this penitential season of holy Lent, her
devotees have cast aside the shackles of tulle
and ribbons which bound them in fashionable
slavery, and now, together with the other good
people of Christendom, have taken kindly to
prayer. fasting and aims. Our eegantes have
asserted their Christian propensties, and have in
measure discarded the Delightfully."- perplexing and
bewildering fancies that Dame Fashion invented
to torment and craze them, and now read
prayer books instead of puzzling their brains over
the fashion plates in the magazines. Let us
trust that they will find the change pleas
ant and beneficial, and that the short
respite Of seven weeks-how long it seems -
which they snatch from the pleasures and follies
of the world may prove an advantage and bless
ing to them here and hereafter.s Balls routs, par
ties and receptions wound up last week in per-
feet blaze of carnivalstc splendor. and now. from
Rome to Alaska, garments Of humiliation, fgura-
lively speaking, h the order of the day. 1t is
behtting that some return should be made to the
Cmnpotent for the many comforts and blessings
that he has vouchsafed to his creatures here upon
earth; and as Fashion exerts her influence and
sway over Church as well as State, we presume
that there is no great sin in going to church in
fashionable attire, providing our prayers be as
fervd and sincere as though we were
arrayed in vertable sackcloth and ashes. Sack
cloth, ~ spoken Of In the Scriptures Is not
fashionable material to make sacks OF now-a
but have the consolation still left us that sacks
are yet worn and instead Of ashes to mourn in, we
can soon in clouds Of dust mourn for our sacks.
Fine weather is coming on apace and before
"opening day. there will be many bright genial
mornings and sunny afternoons for the ladies to
do their shopping and promenading. But il the
ssush and mud, which now lies congeaed in great
nnsightly blocks and patches upon the sidewalks
and in the streets be not removed instead Of piled
up into black, misshaped ridges, the ladies viii find
it far moro profitable and pleasant to remain
ut home than to venture forth into the
muddy, sloppy thoroughiares. where nothing but
coughs, colds and discomhtures await them,
instead of pleasure, comfort and recreation. The
multifarous and vexatious annoyances to which
the women of this goody city will be subjected
whenever thaw commences. makes Us shudder
at the bare thought OF warmer weather. But
leaving the sush and mud as IL il left by our ex-
empary street contractor--to take of itself
and believing that our fair readers are growing
impatient to learn something concerning the
latest STYLES. we now propose to initiate them
into the delightful little nricacies aud mysteries
of which we have learned something since our
last weekly chit-chat, and for which, no doubt,
they are ardently sighing
Scarcely anything new can be said OF walking
dresses. The under skirts are still made short
and The dress itself, when OF the princess shape,
is cut shorter than usual and buttoned en- bi0is.
The ornament OF the under skirt should be biais
of satin to match the material in the dress, and
piping forming pattes set in zigzags aud orna-
mented with galoon or braid The same orna-
mentation is used on braid sash. trimmed with
nd nj ifa nh Ia. tad IA
rings OF black jet placed one above the other,
and with cordelieres. The bias Of satin edges the
whole contour Of the dress.
Another pretty dress can be made Of a subdued
silk with trimmings Of the same color, but of n
deeper shade, having at each end fiat button
covered with the same material as the trimming.
On each side OF the front breadth, under the arms
or thereabouts, the bias form tile long and wide
ends Of scarf, terminating in lozcnges, and or
namented at the lower borders with buttons and
iringe.s The corsage should be high and trimmed
with berthe formed by the bais and lace.b- AIDED
fringe. The lower border Of the sleeve can be
ornamented with like bias, which should be
| permitted to run up little towards the elbow
| and finish with fringe.
the present season, We nevertheless append the
| following description Of one which is considered
| by competent judges TO be the dress, par eJcei-
lence of its kind. II is OF those in which gar
| lands and crescents OF flowers create new and
| charming effect The under skirt is of puicd
| tulle, with broad piping Of yellow satin OF q
peculiar shade termed butter yellow" while the
over SKIRT or rather train is in spotted tulle and
is pretext for the use of two tiers OF flowers
running the front in circular manner around the
rear of the upper skirt and bouquet at the waist,
and which gives this toilette 30 marked char.
acter. Flowers loop up the sleeves, which
are worn short at the shoulders. The
bodice is very short and cut extremely low.
especially behind. but at the centre the depth Is
scarcely appreciable. Each hounce Of lace. with
its accompanying sweep Of flowers, is attached
to separate skirts or tunics, and, the whole being
light and diaphanous, the effect in dancing is Of
the most striking character.
Black and green are fast crowdng Bismarck
brown into oblivion. Pretty outdoor toilets Of
green are now trimmed with crosscut bands OF
black satin, fastened down at regular intervals by
green gimp buttons. Dark blue serge dresses are
generally trimmed with rGueaux and leaves of
black satin, and black dresses are finished with
ornamentations Of black or blue.
The latest in the way Of evening toilets Is q
white gauze dress over white satin petticoat.
The gauze Is cut out to form grecqies, which
should be bound with satin and trimmed with
fringe n garland formed of pinked out satin
should be placed above the grecques and the dress
should be looped up at each side by means OF two
sash ends, which are q continuation of the satin
bssquine. The basquine terminates with short
basque, both at the back aud front, and the
basques, as well as the top Of the bodice, should
be trimmed with fringe.
The newest patterns in lingerie are cravat col.
lars, composed Of stripe Of insertion, bordeTed
with lace for the neck part, and two square or
rounded lace lapels in front This is exquisite In
either Brussels or point lace. For demi toilet
the cravat collar is made Of Valenciennes lace,
with patti rn in thick embroidery worked over 1t
ia applique. These patterns are mostly flowers or
butterflies, and look remarkably pretty upon the
clear lace insertion.
Gilt metal continues to be the great ornament
of modern toilets. 1t would be difficult to ina
gne the quantity OF IL that has been used for the
adornment of our fashionables this winter. We
see dadems OF gilt wheat encircling the head
and looping up the hair, wide belts OF gilt open
work, or, tor sashes, large rings, to which are
added different embems, such as bow aud
quiver Dianas horn, aud so on all of gls metal as
well as the rings.
The coilure mantille is one Of the successful
novelties OF the season. IL is made oil tue new va.
riety OF tulle which is embroidered by hand, and
has all the effect OF rich blonde. Tne edging which
borders the mantile corresponds with the centre.
A velvet bandeau, studded with jet and edged at
both sides with narrow black blonde crowns the