The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1868-09-23
THE FALL OPENING DAYS.

| liz FALL VfENlNu LA y.
Bonnefs and Hats, Angular, sQuare, Round,
High, Low, Grave, Coy, RaiSish, Prudish,
Handsol"e and Plain--Isobes, Brilliant in all
Coiers. for Walking, Talking, Ridins, bin
| Ing and Dancing.
| BY custom, which In the fashionable world as
elsewhere is the unwrtten law, to-day and to-mor-
row arc technically known among miliiners more
particularly, as the grand opening days for the ex-
position OF the fan and winter fashions On these
| dais secrets are made manifest that delight the
ladies' and startle from their firm equanimity the
prosperous husbands and opu,ent Dater fanaitids
OF the upper ten thousand circles of metropolitan soc
ety. Tor very heavy indeed the checks drawn upon
them by mesdames and mam'selles for ribbons and
mats ana costumes, and all the wonderful things
that go toward making up the toilets OF these WITCH
ing but somewhat expensive creatures. While look
ing over the styles in hats and robes and admring
day OF two since, the rich neateriei, we heard a
conscientious gentleman fervently thank Heaven
that ne was not a rich man; "for," he continued,
"witn wife and half dozen daughters, what is q
rich Old codger to do but shell OUT when these
trivances OF the satans OF Paris are placed tempt
fngy before their eyess BY being poor fellow has
chance OF avoiding all these perplexi les.
Just think Of 1t; that hat-that continuance about
the size OF the palm Of your hand-is
marked at fifty dollars and that dress Is In tho
market for as much money an honest toer could
earn In year. There Is no denying the beauty OF
these charming novelties but, Notwithstanding,
rejoice greatly that have accommodating to
my credit at the bank.n Was our poor but con-
scentious friend right or wrongs Let those whose
duty 1t is to provide the sinews Of war answers but
let them do 50 outside Of the hearing OF those who
are directly interested in the wear Of these tribes,
some OF them flight as air." and better suited for
the decoration Of fairy heads and fairy bodies than
those which of bone and flesh pertain to womankDd.
And with this preliminary let US Introduce few
specimens Of those rai yet fair structures OF buck
ram and wire, the
BoNNET
In size these are about as formidable in dimensions
az were the brilliant Inventions OF last season, only
II possible less 80, and just about serviceable AS
matter OF course they are Of infinite variety In g
ure and fabric and color, and having exhausted the
inventive faculty Of the fecund minds of two hemi-
spheres they ought to be as they areom the jockey
to the fanchon-most captivating. So our 0rande
danes will without doubt think them, and well will
they repay with thanks, and more suitable equva-
lent beside, those who devote their years TO the
aesthetic In the millinery art to their entire approval
Madame Rallings, on Broadway, Is particularly
brilliant this season in the bonnet department.,
which is not only recherche but stylish to degree.
which we are quite certain will please our ladies'
Among those which particularly attracted our at
tention yesterday was Scottish bonnet, Prince
Rupert and dahlia. The Scottish novelty Is of rich
black velvet, trimmed with fall of Chantilly lace
with border Of black ostrich feathers to correspond
At the side fastened an elegant tea rose the coronet
Is finished with brOnzed and black feathers tipped
with plaid spots to harnonize with the entire
character Of the invention which. as we
have already limited, Is exceedingly pretty,
and Will doubtless greatly please those
who are not averse to the Jaunty. 1t is hat that
will harmonic equally with blonde or brunette.
The Prince Rupert is modelled somewhat after the
style Of the chevallers high hat. IL is turned up on
tine left side with an ostrich feather which extends
which 1t partially covers, and is confined by beau
ti:ul Chinese pheasant plume. The body or covering
Of the hat Is Of Lyons shirred velvet The crown IL
high and narrow at the top, but gradually wdens as
it slopes towards the brim The novelty is exceed,
ss1 wom HanA ns mater
s sSe aaCer s
nat with narrow top zero crowned med, with
.rythm." 80 to speak, Of blue velvet elegantly en-
broidered in 1t to give It emphasis narrow scarf Of
YARD In Length OF ribb2A ts a
ton, which on a brow of ''sweet sixteen" with
deep, dark blue eyes, peepng from beneath
the OF his ways and worship at the footstoo Of
all .womanhood. AT her new and spacious store,
broadway and under the shadow OF Grace church.
Nine. Higgins has placed before an admIring female
nent is the Xndaioase composed Of black Velvet
attract very general attention. It is trimmed with
orange hyacinths to which are added jet pendants
Sronaht around to- the 'front.' So as to form SQUARE
garniture Next In attractiveness Is the OPERA OF
white Spanish lace trimmed with lilies Of the valley
vet and fern leaves. 1t has satin tie strings trimmed
with elegant scarf OF real lace which falls over
green shaded satin leaves to match A real thread
lace scarf half yard in length, falls gracefully
MINIS ming is a ' Simple bandeau Of Jet leaves.
The Diana bonnet IL made OF pulled black SILK velvet,
wn et ana d Se ana as
| over the shoulders. The Evangeline Is of orange
colored velvet pufed on top and scooped out at the
| back after the manner OF O swallows tall IL Ia
trimmed with real lace and jet ornaments, and has q
black ostrich plume falling over the back aud nm
Caprice bears strong resemblance to the styles OF
last year and Is composed Of blue satin, trimmed
strings trim 'ea ornS@entsd with crystased acorns
with crushed tea rose dropping over the left side.
Rosettes Of blue satin ribbon ornament the back.
able establishment Madame Ferrero, OF Lafayette
place, has q large and exquisite stock OF bonnets
tcularly noticed were several novelties from Paris
In velvet, also In silk and other fabrics. These
should be seen to be fully appreciated; and we
doubt not that not only Will the permanent GUS
toners OF this lady but hundreds from the public
at large will visit her establishment aud
admire and purchase from her exquisite &C.
ections both OF foreign and domestic manufacture
Madame Oney OF Fourteenth street, near Broad
way gives In the beautiful collection OF hats and
bonncts presented by her to-day, full expression TO
her artistic taste. which Is as refined az 1t naturally
is aesthetic We cannot pretend to do full justice TO
the novelties placed stands in her reception and
sales rooms. We only Say they OF character
that must please every woman who has eye to
the beautiful and TO the exquisite. Among other
recherche originals we desire to call atten-
ton to an exquistely contriyed coronet fan
clon, the body Of which IL OF royal purple velvet,
the point Of which IL faced with full iutng in bun
satin, cross-way bands Of velvet, which pass en-
trely the hat and forming long ends fall at the
back; with the bride Is lined with Cbantily lace, TO
which are attached Jet ornaments. The face TRIM
mings Of pearl and purple velvet pansies, placed
high upon one SIDE with black lace and bands Of
purple velvet outside this beautiful bonnet Is I'M
ished with bird OF paradise. For soft, fair,