The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1868-05-04

II
roam over its wide expanse after the sixty miles Of
| mon0tonous valley we had been traversing.
Senate itself Is insignificant little village OF some
fifteen twenty houses situated at the foot of one OF
| are number OF other villages scattered over the
plain, that the population within Q circle of ten
miles would be considerable. The people are rich in
cattle, donkeys and goats, and large numbers OF
these animals wander over the plain and feed upon
the long, coarse grass: They are, however, very
much greater than usual for immense Jocks OF
Ocusts have completely devastated their fields. This
Is great additional difficulty for the expedition,
pounds OF grain they are unable 10 procure anything
like the necessary quantity for their horses. to say
nothing OF the train OF baggage animals.
From Senate to Attegrat Is three days march, be-
ing about forty miles. The road Ia In most cases
all the diicult points been made into practicable
road by the sappers and miners and regiment OF
Punjau6 pioneers, who are on In advance. For the
nrst eight miles II leads across plain dotted with
villages and scattered with large herds OF cattle:
II then descends into valley at the extremity OF
where the commissariat station is established. The
next morning we climbed by very rough and diff
plain stretched away in all directions bounded every
where In the distance by mountains. As this plateau
ioraSon Is the great regularity OF Abyssna II Is
as well 70 describe particularly. In appearance IL
IL succession OF great plains six or seven thou
sand feet above the sea- These plains are, however,
deep which run up into them, and are quite unseen
until we stand upon their very brink and see great
very wide and contain within them detached hills
which rise up like great islands, no doubt they
Te Se v 10 d" exact eye, OF the plateau
| their strange island hills with perpendicular
sides, another plateau beyond, and mountains
| rising above all in the distance, Is very grand
and is quite unlike anything have before seen
In my travels; Across such country as this. wind
ceeds for the second days Journey to Fokada when
water is again met with. The third days journey is
| half upon the plateau and then descends into the
tc
difficult, and even now that q comparatively good
road has been cut is even dangerous for heavily
laden animals. The road IL cut along the face of an
almost precipitous hin, ana is frequently not more
than four feet wide. It descends steepy In some
upon the smooth rock and their loads slip for
ward over their ears 1t is altogether
to pass, as each mule requiring to have his burden
| unpacked--which one In every four or five does
arrests the progress OF the whole line of perhaps
everywhere cultivated, but there will be crops
til after the wet season In July Attegrat, although
sidered large town. 1t consists of about twenty
nuts, ruined palace which at Its best must have
edihce is situated ut distance Of half mile from
| the town.
This is square building, something like an old
Norman keep and two stories In height; also round
| building with high thatched roof, and some small
sheds, the whole surrounded by high
wal Tail ,v with gateway under tower
over with mud 1t is at present the residence Of the
wife Of the local prince, who is captive OF one of
the neghborng kings. His spouse, with devotion
admirable, but seldom Initiated among ourselves,
has taken VOW not TO stir out OF doors until her
husband Is released. she like him, has now been
for seven years prisoner. The ruined palace OF
which have spoken stands at one end OF the village
upon rising ground. The principal hall, which is
wide. Beyond this is little room, which, when first
built must have been really pretty 1t was circular
wicker work, stained in various patterns. The
room mad three recesses each lighted by
Tne Ss although hi In
Is only fifty or sixty years old. The church, at the
other end Of the village and also upon rising ground
doors and windows and the Ornamentation and
carving, such 1t is, being evidently by the same
Drought r the s church STs
entirely from the others that have been In. These
on ee ea ia g S a n aeg Sne
enclosure, numbered with large stones Here we are
requested to take Off our hats, as We are upon holy
rough frame, from which are hung by straw
ropes two or three large and very sonor9us
are all divided into three chambers, beyond the
other the centre one only being lighted by such few
| leading into the other chambers. The first and
second chambers are always low and supported by
rude columns Of stone or wood. The walls are bare,
but sometimes have one or two rough daubs OF
the Virgin and saints, and the whole aspect is
that Of a dark cowhouse. The inner room is a.
are allowed to enter and In some OF the churches
they refused to allow to penetrate on any
ocRea the door, S When obsnea en a
l never In any case found anything to reward me.
cedng one but It was just as rough and unfrrnised
screen OF about six feet high hung across the
chamber at short distance from the door to prevent
wOrshippers In the outer apartments seeing
into the sacred place when the door happens to be
open. Behind this screen the only article in the
supporting rough picture, and in some places a
tray with some flowers. In these inner apartments
is used during the service The church, however, at
Attegrat is far more pretentOus affair than those
have just described. II is much more lofty and is
thatched with high straw roof with very project
i exactly resembles swiss Chalet It's form
the public being only admitted to the passage which
surrounds the sacred place. On entering a sort OF
porch found that the walls were painted in fresco
with the exploits OF the builder OF the church. Here
he If spearing an elephant, there he Is shooting q
lion, and there nre also several battle scenes, In
which he s represented as defeating his enemies
with great slaughter. The frescoes are rough, and
are evidently limitations OF ancient ones, being In the
baby, like the wood work. executed by some
Egyptian travelling artist The walls OF the
with paintings in similar style, but entirely OF
Scriptural subjects from the Old and New Tesamens,
and the lives OF the saints. Here il St George killing
the Dragon, and the Princess OF Egypt looking on
with casped hands. Here various saints being
martyred in most unpleasant ways The Old Testa-
Dent scenes and those In the life OF our saviour
strictly follow the Scriptural text The faces Of the
personages are all whitehall OF the devil invariably
black.
The existence OF this Christian nation upon
the plateau OF Abyssina, surrounded by Mus
suman tribes and natives fOr the people |
beyond Senate are MahomedansL Is one OF the most
singular events Of which history gives any record.
They use Bibles exactly the same ours Their
ship IL, believe for have as yet seen no service be-
ing perf0rmedl very simple. They administer the |
holy sacrament and baptize their children. There IL |
question at all about their being Christians It Is
altogether an extraordinary phenomenon They all |
wear piece Of blue cord round their neck "a the oOt-
ward and visible sign OF their Christianity, and |
they arc 80 strongly convinced thai no |
one can be Christian unless he wears |
this thai most Of the officers OF the army |
here have procured blue ribbons "a cord) which they
wear around their necks to convince the people OF
their orthodoxy. The country II perfectly bare OF |
trees; but In some OF the small dells where water IL
to he found there some charming groves, with |
delicious shade, and with shrubs and flowers of |
every kind including dogrose, honeysuckle, ferns OF
various kinds among them the lovely maiden hair