Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1868-10-21
"MYsTERIES OF PARIS. -


Horrible ReveIatIOns-The Secrets o
the French Kitchens Unveiled.
The Paris correspondent of the Londor
lSar writes as follows:
| Among the curiosities Of Paris life de-
| cidedly are the small carts which, from
five to six every morning, cali at the back
gates Of embassies, palaces, minister's, res
taurants, hotels and great houses in general,
to purchase the remains Of the entsements,
desserts and dinners in general, left, not by
the upper ten Thousand only, but likewise
by their servants, and sold every morning
by their cooks 10 the emissaFies Of race Of
costermongers called "arlequins," whose
stalls at the "Halles" are furnished forth
by these "baked meats" which made their
debut at the tables of those who rule our
destinies. The carts are closed in, and re-
cognizable by the sort of chimReys in
the top to admit of free circulation of ali !;
the remains are thrown pele-nlele into the
carts, and paid for by weight. You may
imagine the aspect presented by this Ola
pOdriGdG when it reaches the "arlequin"
stall. The first process is the triGge, or
sorting-a work of no small difficulty
when portions Of lobster Ia Jullienne have
W NC C4lFdCtcu lIOul Tue ICl1AlU5 OI a
tart in which they are embedded. The
most presentable morselsare pared, cleaned,
() and arranged on q dish, this process
taking place in some remote corner far
from human ken, as naturally its myst cries
would not attract customers.- Strange TO
say, by twelve O'clock these scraps Of rich
mems plates are eagerly bought up by
certain class of poor why prefer the sayory
flavor to more wholesome food. What can
not be sufficiently pared and arranged for
human appetite, is sold for the food Of pet
house dogs, Italian grsyhounds, and
such like aristoratic quadrupeds. The
bones, however, found in this detritus
are carefully put aside and sold
to the manufacturers Of concentrated
meat essence lozenges, and by them, after
they have boiled them down, sold TO the
makers of animal black, much in demand
by house-painters etc. But to return to |
our friends, the "arlequins." This trade |
Of buying up the remains of our friends
side. dishes and second courses is by no
means bad one-many of those who pur-
sue it RETREAT the end of few years on |
four or five hundred a year. Pas Nal |
The next branch of this trade is the bakers |
en- fietu, which reminds one of the sign |
which attracts many a true lover of anti
quities, "MsribOnd dc Meubles en- VieuE" /
Ancient furniture, even though stained by |
age and rua, we all appreciate but an
cient bread, stained by ink and mould, we /
scarcely relish. Yet it is 8 rsmunerative /
trade to collect the crusts thrown away by /
college boys or dropped by these careless
youngsters in their Fairgrounds, trampled
on and linked oftentimes, but gathered by /
chifoniers and sold to these secondhand /
bakers, and by them sorted. The /
cleanest of these soiled and univiting crusts
are dried in an oven, rssped, ana then
sold for the "crOl1e Gu poi" with which
soup all familiar with the French cuisines
are well acquainted furthermore, these
choice bits of old bread are cut up into the /
thFee-cornered morsels which, fried in
butter, adorn the dishes Of the vegetables,
etc, we enjoy at our favorite restaurants.
But there yet remains a mass of mud
stained, dust-soiled scraps which once were
bread this is worked up in a mortar, pull
verified and sold as chapelure blanche in
which our outlets are dressed, or, to use the
technical term, pane; and as ehapelure bruno,
which is sifted over the small hams called
jdnlbOaneuRr. There still remains a dust
which it has been impossible to work up
this Is blackened in the oven and reduced
20 an impalpable black powder, mixed
with honey, to which is added few dropI
OF peppermint, and sold as infsllihle cure
for toolhache, for which ailment it !, said
TO be quite as etficacious "a anything l
recommended by the faculty"