The New York herald., 1868-05-31
THE PARIS FASHIONS.


structed-A Toilet War with the Kitchen-
Origin of "Short Petticoat Balls's-A New
BOnnet-The Great Charity Ball-6cene In
the Opera House-Eugenie's Role-ROyal
Quadrille-Diamonds and Other Ornaments
Observation-Disclosures of a Princess and
the Bridal Dresses-Queen victoria's Drawing
Room as Reported.
PARIS, May Is, 1868.
very serious and not unjust complaint was lately
couched in unpleasant terms loud enough to strike
my ear. 1t was at matinee Some unfortunate
fashion writer had produced a letter in which he
held forth that the soul of lady was in her pocket
handkerchief. This heresy was not intended male
violently; the writer. full Of his subject being enthu
sastically devoted to perfume, simply meant that
the choice Of the essence bouquet of essences
made by lovers OF scent either discloses q soul
bound down to temporallties by either Patchouli
Marechale or Jockey Club" / must own that my
colleague, and in general all fashion expounders
do go rather far. There are no adjectives
strong enough in the French language to express
common approval; they lay the whole dictionary at
their feet, from which they pick up sonorous eX-
petives by the dozen, and fancifuly adapt them to
trimmings until the misuse Of words has become in
comprehensive to matter-offact readers They
think it is very grand and sensational when speak
ing Of a milliner who has made bonnet to express
the fact thus:-"Mme. So-and-so has edited crea-
ton of her own" and when speaking of gentle
mans new coat they say, "Mr So-and-so's prestige
was signed Dusantoy." This Is gbberish, and the
complaint heard was just in one sense. "FashiOn
writer's" said an angry lady, when discussing the
captive soul, in pocket handkerchief, 'are sicken
ing" Then turning to me, never suspecting, poor
innocent Nemesis, that cOuld-Oh, nO-that could
write the fashions, she asked ''Why can't these
rosewater officials give reliable information on in
dspensable common subjects without any dsloca-
tiOn Of language at allf'
/ approved of the substance Of her objections
though not of the form thereof, and when she
pressed further to know more Of my opinions told
her that ever I came to write on the fashions
should remember her advice thus treat OF indis
pensables. The irritable lady snapped her fan to-
gether with brio enough to crack my nose, and
jerking up her train, left me alone on the sofa.
Ladies do not look well in a passion neither can
with sincerity say they look well in unmitigated
panners. Many have been tried, but the camel ap-
pearance is not defeated by any. The most pro-
digious pannier yet seen made its appearance in
store window Of the Bouevards last week. 1t is
called, of course, "Iaperatr7ce,n which is
simply high treason. There are two steel baskets,
one for each hip, exactly like the wicker
receptacles in which buffers carefully carry old port
or chambern up to table; between these bulges out
hump far behind and this is only the under founda
tion for puffy. Silk contrivances above With such
compact affair this on the trunk trade will fall,
every possible convenience for travelling can be
safely deposited within the hip baskets
Panniers have come out somewhat more boldly in
the public streets since my last only the wearers are
i'll at ease They get stared at and often take to
fdc1es very suddenly 1t is not unlikely they will
carry the day at long run, because it is supposed
maid servants win never be able to adopt this style
in imitation of their ladies. 1t is aaciOus to suppose
that they will not, though they "cOme up mfssus
this they will outdo every chance left Of securing
my lady's admirers This question OF mstresses
and maids lies at the bottom Of Nine. de Pourtales
short petticoat ball. of which so much is still BEING
talked. In my last correspondence gave descrp-
tOn Of it and informed your readers that the length
of peticoats had that occasion been subject to
In ball rooms This curtailment was first instituted
In our times by Lady Cardigan, at the Baden races
of French chambemads and milliners' grisettes for
"br0dequins," /" or tight boots. A tight boot to a
Parsenne Of the lower orders Of society is the glory
of her life. The gift Ol pair OF shiny leather tipped
boots, with heels like stills, is the most certain key
to the soubrettes heart. she thinks more of them
parasol than Of bonnet. Well, this being the case
OF course Lady Cardigan found she had done an un-
an Enas l foot il sad Spreading thing
the grsette's nmble elegant, tiny toe and heel
padding through macadam or running over pointed,
towering stones which it rests, skips and p0ises,
or plain asphalt, where it shows or q curve.
All the bandbOX carriers in Paris took to short pet
boxes, and the fashion fell What is going to happen
now?
sibity on herself and 1t is much feared hip baskets
must initiate daily.
Having thus entered on a few social considerations
in the higher order Of ideas, descend to speciaies
the first being Mme Celine Moutaland's new bon
net the lady is an actress at the Gaite Her bonnet
is q subject Of envy, not because 1t is becoming to
bosom friends but because 1t becomes her. II is
garland OF ebon blossoms In black lace, with yell
low scarf 1t is useles to inquire where she got the
fron
how she, by intuitive instinct, knew II would be
staggerer to every one; ask the rose how she knew
drop OF dew would make her natural blush so lovely
before she took TO counting these peariy drops.
Celine Moutaand had vision; and, must say, no
bonnet have seen out OF dreamand comes up to
The bin given at the Opera on Saturday in aid of
the funds for the international Institution founded
for the purpose of assisting the wounded was cer-
tainy the most splendid entertainment OF the season.
The scene from the boxes was fairylike Palm trees
were figured by spears and bending sword blades;
trophies erected OF naval and military weapons;
pillars OF guns with shooting spears were surmounted
by the naqs Of all nations The artillery had been
assisted by engineers in the decoration Of this de-
partment and among ali this sparkle Of steel and
g reea 6 he
The orchestra led by Strauss, played fragments from
"Hamlet" and Auber's First Day OF Happiness"
when not inspiring dancers with polkas, redowas
and waltzes. II was at one moment like the "Ara-
bian Nlghts.n and that when the Emperor and En-
press entered their box.
The bodice OF the Empress blue robe was covered
with diamonds.
As enthusiastic cheering nau SuDelded tne
quadre OF honor was formed 10y Princess de Meter
MICH Comtesse de Pourtales, Comtesse de Motke,
Baronne de Zuylen, with the Ministers and Ambassa
dors for partners.
One set OF ornaments in the ocean Of light was
remarked. 1t was worn by Comtesse de Romanges and
made OF alternate white and black diamonds. She
II is who possesses the "back regentr large stone
OF immense price mounted in the centre of an
aigrete OF white diamonds. Madame Fernan Nufez
wore ducal coronet that however splendid, could
compare with the black and white set in point OF
originality and unique effect.
Beyond Jewels there is little left by way OF toilet to
describe, when once green. blue, ruby, emerald or
yellow satin trains have been mentioned. A court
lady is all train at one extremity and diamonds at
the other.
The hair was dressed more or less rantiQue. A
novel nower, that looks wen and uncommon in the
pouiis Of hair, Is black poppy with dangling
bud the heart of the principal flower IL naturally
big diamond. Ladies who have not got any need
not think OF black poppies, nor indeed presume to
enjoy balls anywhere for diamonds primary con-
siderations In Paris circles. Husbands need not