The daily phoenix. [volume] (Columbia, S.C.) 1865-1878, 1868-09-06

ionable than now. Some very pyet ~
= .s7T ;z-3 suits ordered for early fall visit
ing at couis try tsg houses are made Of
white mohair, with cuffs, epauIettes.
e..d s. sf.ti NJ Al a nj
rufiis cut on the crosse, and bound
with the color, finishes the bottom of
the skirt. Accompanying these were
some very handsome dresses il mar
row striped, ,lchecked and chan gaabIe
silk, which could be worn upon al
most any occasion. - '''1' y. ',-,!'fi' ,i
l " The dresses were short, and divided
at the back into" immense length wise
puffins, which spread out, fan shaped.
toward the bottom, over petticoats
made in silk OF the contrasting color.
and trimmed with fat ruches, three
marrow frills or one wide one. The
front breadths are perfectly plain, the
bodies high and trimmed square and
low; the sleeves long, and ornament.
ed with three straight puffs, ruches
or frills, matching the color and STYLE
of the petticoat.
These dresses are very stylish in
effect, but only suitable for somewhat
tall and slender women, the petticoat
and paaiers reducing in appearance
the height of the figure.
Short dresses Of any kind, it must
be remembered, are no longer to
reach to the top of gaiter boots, but
sufficiently long to just "clear, the
ground" Short or changeable silks
will be very fashionable for fall wear.
and are richly trimmed with fringe
made in the two prominent colors of
the silk, headed with q braid or
twisted piping made of satin in the
same colors. In dark rich shades,
chameleon silks harmonize admirably
with the tints of an India shawl for
visiting toilette. The bonnet to wear
with it is small high chapeau of
Italian straw, trimmed with velvet,
black lace, and a plume of short
curled ostrich feathers in the two
colors.
Feathers are to be revived this
season-the graceful willow feathers
and the long, curled ostrich plumes-
the most distinguished of all orna-
ments.
There is strong, perhaps, it would
be too much to say determined, effort
in progress to abolish the small bon.
nets and introduce large ones, but at
present it does not seem likely to sue
ceed. The chignons are larger than
ever, and the latest style of bonnets
very small and worn very high.
The fullness given to the dress be-
hind, compels the adoption of O some
what larger hoop skirt than has been
worn for some time past; but they
can never reach tho exaggerated di-
mensions again that have made them
ridiculous in times past. The golden
mean seems to have been found at
last, and the shape is, as adjusted by
the leading manufacturers, that the
front of the skirt remains Hat, while
q graceful sweep and tendency to
expansion is given to the back. The
lowest authorized size for ordinary
wear. is two and @ half yards round
at the base. This is very moderate,
and suited to walking dresses. The
next size is two and three-quarters
round, and the third three yards.
This last is not too large for q very
tall lady for street wear. These sizes
may be considered standard. A very
short person, requiring o still smaller
and shorter hooped skirt than the
two and a half yards, should inquire
for the largest misses size.
What shall we say of those outrage
ous innovations, the paniers and the
"Grecian bend?" Fortunately, they
have not yet been adopted by ladies
South of the Potomac; and, indeed,
80 great has been the storm of ridi-
cule which greeted them, that they
have not dourished anywhere but at
Saratoga. If women were but pup
pets, we should not object to the
fashion; but to see women of flesh,
and blood, and heart, and brain, lend
themselves to such aping of horrible
deformity, is worse than saddening;
it makes one fear for them q dreadful
retribution, which man may not even
hint at. For the honor of woman,
we hope that the panier, the "colic
stoop," and the mincing step. may
never appear on the streets of our
Southern cities.
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