The New York herald., 1868-03-22

y
Rosario without any bloodshed.
Exchange on London forty eight pence to the gold
dollar.
TEE FASHIONS AND THE SPRING OPENING.
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On the first day OF the present month the votaries
OF fashion in the gay and frivolous capital Of France
enjoyed an exciting sensation, which was nothing
more less than the "Paris Spring Meeting at La
Marche" This delightful event is always hailed
with mingled feelings OF pleasure and curiosity by
the Partisan bellies, as 1t affords them opportunity
Of displaying witnessing and criticising the latest
novelties in the way Of toiletes and Of making any
little alteration in the incoming fashions that they
may deem judicious and desirable, We Gothamtes
have also .sprng meeting; but it reoices in the
more euphonious name Of "Opening Day." probably
called from the fact that upon that particular day
our naodtstes and milliners are supposed to open
their cases OF imported goods and actually do throw
open their showrooms for the purpose OF furnishing
their customers and the general public with glimpse
OF the forthcoming styles. In Paris those interested
agree to have the grand splurgc come or upon some
day upon which all have previously agreed, and by
that means the affair is made general and partakes
Of the nature Of fashionable holiday. Here, where
every OF naOdfstes and milliners feel inde-
pendent and regard themselves as the only genuine
caterers of fashion on this side Of the Atlantic,
the thing Is managed differently They, to o
certain extent, select day for general opening;
but before the time comes around some dozen or
more, fearful that others may gain unfair advan-
tage them, open upon earlier day, and their
example is followed at later period by other OPEN
ings, which so demoralizes their sister professionals
that when the real opening day arrives there not
twenty establishments at the most left In this
vast metropolis which can punctually and conscen-
tiously keep their appointment with their patrons.
Some have already held their openings, and
others are holding back to ascertain whether or
not some Of their sisters have not superior styles
to their own, and from which they might convent
emily appropriate some small trihes in the way Of
trimmings ornaments or patterns, and which they
might easily adapt to enhance the value of their own
commodities. Such petty dealings with one another
as these begets jealousies and anmosites that are
not likely to be stided down in day, and just
long they exist just SO long will New York be de-
prived Of an opening day that be termed fashion
able In the true sense Of the word. More than
month ago the mandate went forth to the world that
the 21st OF March the day settled upon for the
important event, and preparations were made ac-
cordingy. Somewhat later 1t was postponed and
now we are assured upon good authority that 1t
will positively como Off on Wednesday next-that is
as much OF "it as is left This bewildering mixing
up OF affairs well goods is exceedingly depor-
our metropolitan elegantes, but also confuses and
Inconvenience the rustic nodtstes and milliners,
who flock to the city In thousands upon every OPEN
ing day for the delectabe purpose Of procuring the
latest styles In cloaks, bonnets and trimmings in
order that our country cousins living hundreds Of
miles away from the city may not be behindhand in
matters pertaining to fashionable ATTIRE For their
own benefit, and for the accommodation of the pub
lie generally, we trust that those interested will
arrange the matter more harmonousy next year.
In view Of the near approach Of the vernal "open-
ing" we will not mar the pleasure Of our fair readers
by giving them description Of the delights which
are promised to be unveiled for them on that auspi-
cious day, but will content ourselves by simply
aludng to the great change that has taken place In
the fashions during the past twelve months. This
change has been immense. and probably in no part
OF dress s 1t more noticeable than In the form Of the
skirts. Wide skirts have been completely superseded
by those Of the close fitting gored pat.
sional wear. Crnoline may be said to have
had ts day. the reign or the skeleton skirt is over;
few steeis at the bottom is all that is now required
AS fashion advances 1t Is Thought that even these
will be dispensed with, and we should not be sur
with hair or straw coming into general use again.
Perhaps the most astonishing change OF all Is the
sudden complete and wonderful transformation that
has come about In cloaks OF which we have spoken
in former articles They Of such strange shapes
walking cloaks have suffered alike In the sashng to
which they were subjected and are OF all shapes,
which includes long, hanging pieces and are being
rapidly adopted. The next marked alteration that
we have to notice is that relating to the coat sleeve,
which Is now OF the hanging ORDER falling complete
ly away from the shoulder, narrow, joined, and COM
pleted with cufr OF fur or some good imitation Of
that article, so that the effect OF hussars jacket Ii
produced This style OF sleeve its origin to the
"Grande Duchesse OF Gerostenn IL must be obvi-
GUS TO our fashonabes that there is room for much
Improvement in the way OF dres sing and adjoining
"A m pry hort
sleeves, which attained such rage during the past
winter were not only unbecoming, but were also
dangerous TO health, and we are glad to learn that
they to be replaced by high corsages and long,
open sleeves OF tulle. This much by way Of review.
Now for description OF some OF the newest dresses
Visiting DRESS This dress is made OF black velvet
and green satn The long underskrt Is black velvet
and s trimmed with green satin rOutedu and green
satin buttons. The upper skirt and bodice are green
satin; the basqune IL simulated with wide black
velvet band edged Win black lace and terminating
sash and braces are likewise made OF black velvet
piped with satn
The next Is white tue dress with white satin
slip under It. The tue Is b0ufltOnf,6 and trimmed
with i've rows OF cerse ribbon velvet, sewn in
diagonal lines and In two tiers the lowest line Is
edged with ccrise fringe. Over the dress there
two draperies otule one above the other and cross
ing at the right SIDE These draperes are edged with
the blonde; tufts Of cerise placed at regular in
tervas upon the gold gimp. A similar trimming is
Kobe a de7nf-trdtne, In white and rose colored
striped silk, gathered at the back and having high
tight sleeves terminating In hood cufs OF col
ored tafYeta, bordered with white guipure. rose
coored bow with ends ornaments each shoulder
The wastband, which is likewise of rose colored
tafYeta IL tied behind with double bow and has OF
course the usual long ends falling down the back Of
the robe.
They have new sensation in Europe over what
they call the american jacket.n 1t is tight-ntting,
open at the bosom, with revers, and with narrow
basques cut square at the bottom, divided from the
waist and falling the skirt This jacket is said
70 be very pretty In black silk with cerise-colored
revers and piping round the waistband and basQues
II Is fastened at the side santwise, with polished
steel buttons, and one row Of similar buttons Is
placed over each OF the small basques American
ladies will probably feel grateful that such pretty
Jacket should be named after their country and win
doubtless at some future day, when they able to
invent fashions Of their own return the compllment