New-York tribune., 1868-07-06
OUR RESTAURANTS.

-ARIsTOCRACY GULLED,
IL ia a fact patent TO every thinker that
weldeaned and unmstakable relation exists between
nations mind and its stomach; that national dnnerpots
and puddngsticks have much political value as the
national flag the Capitol Once concede that at GER
tain duna periods those articles Of domestic and cuin
ary prominence hold important relation to the Dody
personal and ii is only TO multiply this con
cesson by the TO justify their relation 10 the Dody
polite What we eat, when we eat, how we eat ana
where we eat have great deal to do with us as men and
eltzens-and perhaps what we drink, and how much,
have great deal to do with recent complications at
Washington Let Yankee where, how and
of what a man makes his meals, and, without
knowing anything OF his previous history, he
Will aim a guess at his social and nauonai
status. and usually hit the target II he does not
pierce the buseye Before Greece melted into an
cient history Lacona was readily distinguished from
States by her black broth and wine and the
severe abstemiousness Of the lusty spartans. The
Athepans goried in their luxury. Egypt Rome and
also their easron0mic sgnboards, winch aman
with stomach could not mistake. SO, In modern times
m experenced traveller may be supposed to form an APP
idea of his latitude simply by putting ms nose
nto he nearest kitchen window He would never ms
take France for England confound Ireland with Russia
China or south America with the United States. .
In a mixed community like New York, where dinner
odors are multiple and inoongruous, snch nas eosnH ~
zapce of locality is difficult for the population IS
Pentecosta one made up Of all tribes under Heaven
whose tongues still fired with their own naye tastes
Even I'm this cosmopolitan city, however, one mas only 70
90 into a dinngsaloon and examine ts DllloIIare 20
tell the color OF its patrons the map OF the world Inc
individual representatives OF every prominent country
on the globe will somewhere find eating houses IN when
they can favor conservative Plaie WIN tne 9In
OF early transatlantic years. The lately imported HANS
nstnctvey follows his nose to some Ienonc @
where mburger cheese kraut, and rye bread are
the esteemed OF vital refreshment and sundays
excepted. he may swim his dinner in Rhine wine and
lager Not far from this fragment OF Germany eIe ao
places where the hour OF twelve the green
nag OF @ horny la6orers in their working
clothes are sitting at plain pine tables covered with very
the astcation OF large plates Of tough beef cabbage
and potatoes and seasoning their meal with the atest
Ecnian gossip Broadway Houston, Blcecker and Mas
san streets have their English houses with English names
and English dishes The characteristic patriotism & Sa
eockney can sit down under his vine and hgtree eat
beef & and % p RHd R%ddF a ssS he cae With
10 molest him make him afraid The sons OF Gaul nse
wise have obgng oountrymen who cater TO their wants
which thew are sure lind printed on menu IN thelr
own language and dispensed by neatlydIesseu emOouI
Bt none OF these establishments be said TO be the
natural result Of American tastes and habits They are
mand of foreign population whose heads and hearts
may have been Amercanized but whose stomachs sun
retain their native allegiance There are dining saoons
in NewYork though which are as distinctly III CONFORMITY
with our nationality as any tat nave oeCn m VnnneD
but essentially the outgrowth Of the American character
| compounded as II IS OF all these elements.
There are uOmnay two classes OF American reSaur-
auts in the metropolis only one OF whlch-tn9 c.eap,
radically democratic saloons-ean Iary oe sio 70 10
peculiar 10 our soil The fashonaDe estaU @
shmonts have imported 80 much OF French manners anu
|
more than the French II - the cheaper saloons that
feed demOcracys great yitasthe masses the others
above their necessities ana az suley sOo1 il
reach Men the tOprung OF prosperity, win plethoIa
OF reen3acks ana ny pelot.oS' bitS' ' ,',et1e ART
and elegance. .nd the right 70 choose their OWL nmed
Iadacr IN riches cannot pay this tariff on French
| manners and must content themselves WITH uayiess
dining saloons OF the class describe find their main
prosperity IN ne ceniers Oh Dsea tnJe th @ yrcd
establishments, but more on Chatham, Nassau Nldlau
Fulton. John, and Waists large nuulDer wesS ~ ,t o
city. The downtown salOonh are NANNY lhIen enueu loi
the accommodation OF business mem Du e larger hpa
more thrifty invariably have separate saloons Tor ladies'
Which are t1craby well supported. Most OF them while
coianr,beusiye FOR the masses allow II paid
for reasonable amount OF fastidousneSs and prsten-
fi, TN "a dono,nated They vie with each other In pro
yidng the most comfortable and neatly furnished apart
ments the largest bsofiare the most palhaDle lo9u'
tie ccaucst linen the quickest and poest "alts W
| most wreichedly.
Those who sat their three meals day at home. and
seldom or never the inside of public restaurant
profoundly ignorant OF the running and maage-
ing these downtown saloons about nOon tue uac
cusomed VISITOR surprised Dy we @ ehtree me % % S
prevails long table running thfough thc VI w ~.
room surrounded by hungry men, some WIN has on,
some with bate on sitting close 10 each other as ther
effort viii permit, eating ON time at DeAter ~ Pi,e, %
Ranged endwse the wall on each side Of the room are
tables large enough for four persons, likewise enco
passed with hungry some In the incipent stages O
dinner consumption, others bTayty SOnlueI,ns a ,ao
see at the fashionable saloons, bat railroad haste tha
Is almost CONTAGIOUS 70 a Bmp.aue tempelarmen, rdu
from Tho laden with various dishes OF meats
vegetables coffee ard tea piled mp on their eft arms
onward arc cleaning the tables OF their remnants ana
empty dishes carrying one 20 the wash girls, ana the
other 10 barrels Plates are gathering knives
and forks rattuug, walters are cang customers arc
going and out and activity is the law OF the hour
Srn he entrance o one side OF the the barkeepcr
il releasing liquors from black bottles ana OeerPump
bchud tho same counter the cashier iahg y.eISs
rltare las ufr
recty opposite nc the same end Of theTOo Is uepoaru
loaded orulIcrs. custards, ri kinds OF pastry Win
rlck above 10 nllcd with variety OF canned frut lls
-idchoard good index 20 the epcureah status oi o
establishment which can easily be determineu py s
be good, rich color, with pumpkin elevation an men
and half thick substantial crust ~ augurs Well' W W
une thin aud collapsed " bad prophesy FOR the Dl
OF fare A,tute propretOrs extend their attractions 10
show windows one or both sides OF the entrance,
which are repete with the most alluring temptations 10
indulgence Specimen cuts OF beef ana mutton, gay IN
rbbous and roettes poultry IN fun feather or ready TOT
the cook; grown vegetables, and lus' olls luS IN IN
their season, are arstcay decoi5teu anu eNdo,No dN 90
view. Enormous turtles on the sldeWhk are ltuc "
bear their funeral notices, geneIuy Iu'leu III os
nc1t G soup and are hs turtles 10 ter
fate, yon take seat vacated vo.y ey o,pen1f S tor
leisurely meal While your palate Is comparing moSs'
with a bill OF fare, man VINO KNOWS II ,, 10y % nleu'
sharp nervous and pulse at 49, rushes mo ine saloon;
drops into the chair opposite You, shouts roast peer a
coffee to the nearest waiter looks Twice at hs "a'Sh
in he minute he Il gone; then bitches up ms Guns sas
aud peppers his beef aud, graspng KNIFE ana oIk
! h as though it were alive and 1t was douDuul WhSh
second atlnpt demolshes dessert ordered IN advance
wines his mouth with handkerchief In lieu OF hnpklh
se ls his check saps down his change ana s OH almost
before YOU have begun your dinner Inc Watcrs ha's
keen appreciation OF temperament ana Dl-Weeky ito
from the hurried qulckens their intelligence OH ts
point so under these circumstances, II may De your o'
70 wait Ave eight minutes before your order appears
Ynnr YnnyH Companions at dinner are merchants,
! c,,rts hfokers lawyers, statesmen, portefs,
Gn prpJsrs and occasional representatives from
nearly every business professional pursuit AstOcracy
is discouraged here. Eating Is considered an rs H
omen 10 all those who have sufficient capital Ihose
wbo have not are expected TO 30 to the Poor House
fi,ra and caste WELD 10 prOmptness and dispatch.