New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1868-08-31
MEXICO.

ENTE-JESEQUIN AND lAlLi--SlA AND
USES OF THE MAGuEl-lIS FUTURE IA
GREAT RESOURCE
lFRoM OUR owE CORRESPONDENT
~..r...r -OMETUsCo July l. 1868.
No occsn,nt of Mexico can well omit notice OF its
common vegetable wonder, the maguey Indeed, this
mor,ey il an estate in itself AS truly plant as is
any cabbage it carries its blossoms to the hight Oh
twenty-five feet, leaving a vegetable mass hfteen'
sixteen OF seventeen feet below. There 1t seems 10
set upon the earth, throwing cut great, haru Ioo'-
leaves These leaves are thick and hbrous' arc
indented with savage spineS, and taper 10 u Snaip
point after four feet Of growth Rlghtl 'e center
is an erect bulb-shaped SHEATH growing 10 point
the famous wine of agave that for genera
tions untold has been the fav0ro 1000 anu tppe 9l
Indian Mexico. The bloom OF the plant Is panlcie
with the pineapple tribe, which, at all events, sug-
Oests its superficial nature; but lndey has paceu
with the Agaves in the AmaTyls tribe, and there IT
remains. The whole appearance OF the maguey Is
formidable. Not every one likes IL, put so iuch tne
worse for their tastes for the maguey is nature IT
self Painters would lind 1t hard TO ADAPT IL Il1o
their landscapes, yet it makes fine held n0Dle
plain. and an interesting scene nevertheless w nas
would Yankee growers of such Overgrown grasses aS
wheat rye and corn say to this Aztec giant one OF
whose children has more strength than whole helo
of corn whose life is fifteen years, ana never QuI9
dies out till it has nOurished whose stln leaves anu
tough blossoms are pOsy OF the earthquaAeo Oh sPot
mems of volcanic c0quetry. o
Journeyng in the Apam country, have come acIoss
very large plantations OF this puque plant, 2l' 70
sneak Mechanically the Agave Mexicana. The hablta-
ton OF the maguey is chiefly in the plateau OF Ana
huac whereof the City of Mexico Is capital. me
best vineyards of the agave VINE are III us of thus
country is at Ometusco. Hence II is that senu So
my notes of this manysided vegetable lnspIreu' ~
may be- with some OF It's eSn rom na tne
Indc,dL In pulque farm the hnaeuaI has the same
Mace relatively as milk house has ID dairy Al Is
a long room, ranged on either SIDE with deep ana
ample COW skins set IN TOGaen tSs %sqn sT Tie
process of extracting and fermenting the puque Is
simple enough. When the maguey is OF ripe age, or
Isayes forming sort of cabbage-beart are cut out.
Into the hollow thus made IN the middle OF the plant
d0ndraiel or honey water filters through as into
large round jar, which has to BIO emptied twice or
three times day, or the liquor will run over. Inc
with long calabash, broad at bottom and
narrow at top, and perforated either way:
This he broadly inserts into the plant, ana
applying his mouth to the top fills his caiabash by
suction OF air then lets It's contents ON out s sU neS
with O sharp iron. so that its pores may PeTSplro
freshly with hOney-water. This aguamel, which mas
so strong sacchaTine principle that sugar Is made
out of it. is the infant pulque. Not, however, for
some time does it change TO the milky color whlch
distinguishes the wine of ARaVe and not until IL Il
mixed with some old ferment and allowed TO rest,
does it become the puQue which every morning Is so
much enjoyed by thirsty bbbers IN the puquerlos OF
the capital In the tinacual 1t IS passed from hogskln
fernent. The wooden saucer full which the haclen-
dadO gave me was somewhat sweet and thick, with
an exquisite ferment the like OF which is not appre-
ciabe in the most of liquors. ltwas exceedingly re-
freshing to thirst and recreave of it did not dis
tingus6 that ancient and fshy like smell" which
delicate order of travellers describe as hardly bear
able, but suppose the old liquor Of the shops con-
tains more or less OF it. without Offering however 70
the curious drinker anything which sensible taste
will find it impossible to take. =
The best pulque though, is not reputed sweet The
mass of it acquaintance; but TINS sournese
Is combined with alcohol which stimulates thirst
and thus is puque maintained in the affections of the
people. TlacLique, made out of a wild and Immature
plant is esteemed the least OF the pulques pHQde no
Il the best Taken in excess the liquor disorders the
mind and s0urs the temper, and accordingly near IL
said that it causes more quarres tnan
brandy OF beer Yet this is told OF liquor which
seems at first draugbt natural milk wine harmless
as the brew of dandeliOn Alcohol, mucllage sugar,
aoetio acid and traces of lime and potash found
in pulque; nothing seems to convict 1T OF being
poison To export 1t is impossible, as fermentation
aud breakage. or complete spoil are the results OF
. bottlng. Some time ago it was said that $1,000
bottles were daily drank in the CITY, and this number
quoted as proof of general sobrety but fear the
figures number of years stale Juices OF pine
apple strawberries, oranges, and other fruits are
mixed with pulque aud form what are known as
cOmpuestOs or composite drinks. so much for the
manner and disposition of this remarkable product
more popular in the district of the maguey. III the
worst effects Of its habitual drinking are seen IN the
sourng of visages 1t Is bad enough Puque poverty
and Incidence very near together, as had occa-
sion to in my recent visit TO one OF the lowest
populations of the country. But though the mixing
of pulQue with other alcOholized drinks is madden
ing the frightful forms of drunkenness are foreign
to Mexico As q fluid accompaniment OF the poor
Msxicans every meal, puldue Is as much home
drink here as ale and beer are intEurope.
About fifty million pounds weight OF pulque are
introduced into Mexico annually, and about one
quarter of this amount into the City OF Puebia The
value of pulque estates Is estimated IN round num-
bers at fifteen millions In the year 1883 one hundred
and ninety thousand animals passed the garitas Of
Mexico laden with pulque. Since that time war has
(olio fha roads IN Cit haV
been blOekaded at last the city itself has been be-
sieged, and the nectareOus supplies OF a pulque-
ago than during the siege endured by Marquee aud
enforced by POrhro DAL that the people of the Cddd
Teal cried out much from thirst as from hunger.
Even then the hunor Of the people had vent In
well-remembered dOggerel which translate for you
a. one of the most instructive facet@ of pulque and
a choice relic of the days of tOpsV-turyey;
Since pulque fallen short the drinkers only sigh
The shaneface dealers offer beer, but still the folks
keep dry.
The vacant puqueas plagued with nOisees dearth
No wonder. since that soul is gone the milky fount Of
IT'S like graveyard now where pleasure
TAe people have no comfort now since pulque fallen
Early on every morning King Pulqus drove his vain,
With all his mule bells ringing and pleasure In his train
Bnt now they rS all down In the mouth 1t makes
topper sigh.
The famous good Tiamapa Ometesco San Bartoe,
And even TlachlaScO, are quite ROne ny the DOwl;
Fen cheap Jepache very rareand, speaking frankly
here,
Pucheros no longer made-they only offer beer.
Delicious nectar cheering, old Montezumas tpple,
beverage and merry bring back your snowy ripple
See n what surly humor are those who loved you well
Our houses are In mourning clad, and sad are those
that sell.
Some of the foregoing names will suggest them
selves hacienda titles describing the most popular
sources and kinds Of pulQue. The style and nomen-
cature of the pulque shops is still more curious
hbtng To what nights of poetry and enthusiasm the
ready sale of popular beverage will carry pros
Porous dealer. II the alien desires TO partake
piOus lbatioH i can recommend nothing better