The daily phoenix. [volume] (Columbia, S.C.) 1865-1878, 1868-05-09
summer FasnfoliaIs..

Ecestly brought out-r'Sultana redp
and .'Metternich green"-hsve not
attained their anticipated popularity.
The latter is most worn, but is only
becoming to the brightest complex
ions; still, green is the prevailing color
in millinery goods; darker shade
than Metternich predominating. The
latest fashion bulletin from New York
says: ' "'' sfI
1t takes long time for revolution
in fashions, such as we have expert
enced within the past few years, to
become fully inaugurated; and indeed
before staid and sober people have
time to make up their minds concern
ing particular design or style of
dress, presto there is a change, and
the fashion is something else.
1t is about two years since the
short dress first made its appearance,
and it was not till the past winter that
it became general, or sufficiently
popular for ladies to feel satisfied rs
to its permanence. Old dresses were
made over, or scant pattern some
times made up for convenience; but
it was long time before ladies could
make up their minds to purchase o
handsome material and deliberately
have it made up into short s.suit."
These suits are now universal, and
have effected fatal change i'm the
general aspect of the promenade.
Some are made with only skirt and
pelisse, others have two skirts and
sac. or paletot, cut into the form like
basque at the back, and crossed as
a small shawl in front.
Street suits are uniform in one or
at most two colors, and if this idea
is carried out in every detail of the
costume, the more elegant it will be
considered. In fact, this harmony,
completeness, uniformity, or what
ever we call it, is just now the truest
test of the ladies. Many attempt it,
but very few achieve it.
The ''paniers" are the latest novel
ty, and already hooped-skirts have
been filled with enormous bustles to
wear under them. La painters con-
sists simply of a gathering of the
hind folds of the skirt in such a way
as to allow them to fall over in q
bouillon upon the lower part of the
skirt. The arrangement is as simple
as it Is absurd, but it requires to be
done correctly, or it is supremely
ridiculous, and not few young la
dies have attracted the attention of a
crowd by their effort to effect ama-
teur paniers aud the grotesqueness of
their appearance when they ventured
courageously into the streets.
Paniers for short dress are effect
ed by lengthening the upper skirt
somewhat at the back, and running O
drawing string from one side to the
other through the centre of the back
breadth. The front breadth is in
serted plain and of the proper length;
the junction at the sides being con-
cealed by rosettes, bows and ends,
sashes or some other ornaments.
would not advise any one to at
tempt panier on their own account,
without first having seen a correct
model. In full dress, however, many
ladies improvise them very respect
ably by tying up the train with a
wide sash, and arranging the folds
over the tourmure, for I am ashamed
to say the old fashioned hustle is re-
vived sometimes in stiff hair cloth,
sometimes in springs, which are
shaped to form the hustle at the back
of the hooped-skirts.
The latest style of hoped skirts
are horrible. In addition to the
enormous hustle or wide shelf which
sometimes extends to the sides, as
well as across the back, there is o
broad train. which destroys the
beauty and elegance of the trailing
dress. Fullness at the back, stretch
ing off into long, narrow quene, is
the effect required; but hooped-skirt
manufacturers in endeavoring to
make the trail, have broadened
the skirt so that the length of the
dress is taken up unnecessarily and
the peculiar grace of the style wholly
lost.
Bonnets ere becoming smaller and
smaller, and there is good reason to
believe that in short time they will