Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1868-09-26
FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER.

L FASkHkONS FOhS OCIOHEkk.
After summer costumes, autumn cos
TUNES now appear not very different from
the former, except that they generally con
sisted OF skirt and paletot, while those O
the present season ar made with a higl
bodice and some sort of mantelet; both o
which were avoided as much as possibl,
during the very hot weather. FNs y
/ Dresses are still made-most of them
with tM, =: -:.. -;;-,lle under one forming tn,
petticoat, the second more or less raised O
looped up. Several of the mantelets ar,
very small, and made with narrow pointed
hoods.
| Circulars are also much worn, with o.
without hoods; in the latter case, they ar,
looped up with one or two rosettes at thu
back, e.; -oat,uT konFE far9 ad
The circulars are made either Of the sam,
material as the dress, or OF black or whit
cashmere, trimme with lace or guipure.
| The mantle of the season is, in fact, thu
cashmere mantle. 1t is made this year o
various shapes. from the well-known loost
paletotto every Kind or mantelets or. cir
cular, also as Vatican paletots and long
and ample buruouses. They are trim
med with cross strips and ruches O.
satin, black lace, embroidery and braid
work. 10
I The white cashmere mantle is the most
! elegant of all for the demi- saison, and
| may be worn with dressy toilets all the
month of October. 1t looks best trimmed
with double fall aof black lace, headed
with a. very slight passementerie1 edgtng,
and with black silk gimp cord and tassels
for the hood.
The black cashmere m antle is more USE
full, and can be worn much later on in the
autumn, and worn all the winter, if nicely
lined and quilted.
For the seaside white and red cashmere
cloaks' are generally adopted they are
trimmed with white lama fringe. -@
We also notice another kind of mantle.
1t is large circular with hood, made of
tartan, with a large echeck pattern in bright
olors and black, thus: orange and black,
red and black, or green and black.
Again, another style of cloak is the Car
Z lex. 1t is composed OF a number of capes
placed one above the other; the first an
ample circular, she last small collar round
the neck. The carrick is generally made
'fcloth. We doubt its being in great fa-
vor with our elegantes; 1t certainly seems
= co us far from graceful or becoming.
a There is certainly very great change in
the fashion of dresses since this, time last
year. Then the skirt was required to be
as plain and scant as possible, especially at
the top; now, on the contrary, the fuller
the dress at the back and sides the better.
Three tournures of stiff horse hair are
added to the crinoline; one is placed at tine
back the two others form the paniers at
the Sides The dress is then looped up SO
as to form large puffs, and is fastened either
with a sash, or with separate bows of rib
bon. We are, in fact. quite come back to
the Uertugadtn of the time of Lous XIV. So
.crin0liiie once more triuinphs, and, under
a new shape, is more fashionable than ever.
A pretty walking dress is made of green
Valencia shot with rose color: first skirt
plain and rather short, trimmed with five
cross strips put on plain; second skirt cut
at the back in twosquare lapels, very much
Resembling those of a coat, and raised very
much in the middle under large bow with
lapels fastened WITH a long pearl buckle
High bodice and tight sleeves, with lace
collar and ruffies. Straw toquet, trimmed
with a long rose-colored scarf nd ar $40
Black silk dresses are worn this autumn
over bright colored petticoats, red, violet
or blue, plain or striped. The dress is
trimmed with marquise ruches; these
ruchesl form sort Of puffed- out bouiilon
in the middle with a, plated heading ON
either side. .ugTnr5
~ Some elegant glace silk dresses are made
with a drapery la Vatican in the back
in the same style as the Watteau paletot
we mentioned this summer. This drapery
is formed by one width of the material,
plated at. t.the upper edge, and fastened at
the top of the bodice at the back. 1t is
sometimes left to fall quite loose over the
dress, sometimes looped up with bows of
ribbon, Low dresses are also frequently
oramented with this style of drapery, and
we have seen 1t in ,eolored ;glace silk,
mauve, blue, or rose color, upon low white
muslin dresses for the eeveniug. az' i-'-' 81
Sometimes the dress, drapery aud all is
of white muslin. In one instance each
plait of the drapery was fastened to the
bodice with roses without foliage, the
dress had a double skirt, looped up with
punches of roses. g5d .1sy . -I1s '.iss :.
The under-skirt, forming part of the
walking costume, is quite as important as
the dress in modern toilets, and should be
well matched to it in color and material.
The following are pretty combinations for
autumn costumes in fOulard, leno, valencia,
or poplin delaine: fCJ + q -
-,r Dress and mantle of plain violet; under
skirt striped violet and black. Dress and
mantle of speckled green and black un-
der-skirt OF black silk with a gathered
flounce. Dress and mantle black, with a
pattern of red fiowrets; red and black
striped under-skirt. The same in brown
and white, maize and black, blue and gray.
For mourning, a black foulard dress with
small white pattern and a plain black
Tfoulard under-skirt. wiz
z The new shades of color most fashion
able this autumn are cuir dore, a golden
reddish brown, and uip de Bordeaux, q deep
red. Gold yellow and bright. blue are also
in much favor for dressy toilets, and look
very we'll with a mixture of black. 70 80
The two following are the latest models
from Madame Pieffort: A dress of wine-
colored (Bordeauxl gros-grains silk. y I'm
der-skiIt round, without any train, trim
med with three narrow gathered ffounces.
Short upper-skirt,7 trimmed with a deep
fall of black lace. and loopedsiup in the
middle of the back. High bodice, with a
double plated basque. Small vandyked
collar round the top. Plain sleeves with
A black silk dress. skirt ornamenterf with
black and gold ,colored braid, placed in
three rows. High bodice and tight sleeves
trimmed to correspond. Upper-skirt and
corselet of black grenadine with gold col
ored satin stripes, looped up with large
bows. ..ss. ysssFts f15ss ttsa -a-EG'F rtfHE
z In fact, double skirts are quite the rule
for dresses, and when there is but one skirt
it is trimmed SO as to appear double. or.
being made very long, tits arranged in the
upper part'into very large puff and trim
med round the bottom with a very deer
gathered founce. ri .glt-lstn,f 5,ifa'.tTa. n ~
The fiounce is sometimes placed five or
six inches higher than the bottom of the
skirt thus Stimulating double skirt. The
| frequently put on in the shape of a round.
| ed apron upon the front part of the skirt
The Marie Antoinette fichu--no Longer
worn as a gmantle-will still be in great
favor this winter to wear of an evening
| over low dress for concerts, dinner, OF
small evening parties. Young ladies weal
them in clear muslin, with Valenciennes
lace insertion and edging. In Mechlin lace
they are very .dressy. Very. frequently
| they are not crossed and fastened at the
back, but merely passed in front within the
waistband.l "a v1-vorrE .asE T21oft -
Morning collars, verySnarrow and stand
ing up, are made of French eambric, print
ed with tiny colored patterns or striped
The deep cuffs are made to- correspond
Plain stitched linen collars and cuffs are
edged with sValenciennes lace. We alsC
notice new collars formed of a strip of em