Vermont watchman and State journal. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1836-1883, 1868-05-20

he is always asked to name what he will give,
and there has been scarcely an instance in
which the offer has not been accepted. Then
we invariably quarrel with our driver or gon-
dolier Yesterday the gondolier demanded
two francs for taking me to the church. |
offered him one He Indignantly and vocife.
rously refused | told him to 60 to the hotel
and get his pay, and walked into the church.
When | returned, he most graciously took
what he had before most loudly refused. The
fellows like scene, and think that a stranger
well always yield to their demands rather
than have one My rule is to study the
tariff and then offer that IL they decline |
walk off without word. They will watch
for you and take the legal rate very gladly.
1t is the testimony Of all travellers that the
cost Of trip has greatly increased in two
years In fact the continent is insatiate.
There is no end to the demand on the purse
Of the stranger Hackmen, gondolcrs, touters,
vendors of all sorts Of wares photograph and
picture dealers, wayay us at every turn of
the street. and force themselves into our
apartments. II would seem as if the whole
commerce of some of the italian cities was
with travellers. The only way we can get rid
of them is by the most crisp and emphatic
phrases. 60 prepared with a small load Of
explosives, which | discharge, volley after
voley, into the faces Of our annoycrs Our
courier is forever in a passion with the " ras-
calls as he impolitely calls them, and there
is no saint whose maledictions he does not
freely invoke upon them. think from all
| can learn of the expenses of others, he saves
us his entire cost Certainly he is of vast
advantage to us He is a noble, whole-souled
man, very honest and trusty, aud we shall
long hold Martin Stangl in pleasant remem.
brance. He is the most untiring Of men
knows every place, and every nook in it, in
Europe, is a genuine Catholic, never forgots
the holy water and the cross, yet hates the
priests with an amusing intensity, and is
wholly devoted to our comfort and gratitca-
ton.
There is one feature Of continental Europe
that is very agreeable. Every evening, in
the public square or gardens of the city in
which we may be, we have found band
playing from one to two hours, the most de-
licious music. The operas of the most cele-
brated composers are here rendered gratuit-
ously, in the most mastery way. These out
door evening concerts are attended by crowds
Of people Of all classes, and give an opportu-
nifty for delightful promenade. And in no
case have | seen the least disturbance or row
dyism or improperly. Seats and tables are
arranged in front of the cafes on the square
or in the gardens, and coffee and ices and
cake are furnished to hundreds and thousands
of ladies and gentlemen, while dealers in fan
cy articles percolate the crowd and contrib
ute to the general enjoyment. 1t is scene
Of innocent recreation and pleasure, which
should like to see initiated in every city
and town of our country, that is able to sus-
tain band. These innocent enjoyments are
positively beneficial to the people. | am con-
fident that they increase the amenity of social
life, and exercise the spirit of violence and
rowdyism which so often runs wild in our
American crowds. An European crowd is
perfectly civil, and no one in it ever passes
the limits of propriety. One never meets
with personal rudeness. The square of ST.
Marks, each evening, is like an immense draw
ing room full of decorous and pleasant
guests. An incivility would be considered
rhine. wish we might have such evening
escorts and entertainments in the sweet sum
ner evenings Of New England, 1t would
cultivate both the musical gifts of our ana
eurs and the public social life of our com.
nunitles. One need not fear that they
would tend to any laxity of public morals.
80 far from it, there is, on the continent, no
'pen show of vice. Rarely anything meets
he eye that would shock the most fastidious
aste. Nothing low or unseemly ever stalks
n your way or stares in your face, in the
'ut door social life of the Italian people.
have tried to give you some idea of Italian
life. Of course, it must be very imperfect in
Nj respects. My eyes are the only reliable
means of obtaining knowledge. My ears are
not yet accustomed to the language | un-
lerstand but little and often make myself RI
iiculous by trying to make others understand
my wishes. But, however ridiculous | am,
no one ever seems to notice it, and if | turn
suddenly round to sec the effect of my fear
iul mixture of Italian, French and English,
in the persons to whom have been trying to
my ideas, the furtive smile is
instantly suppressed and their faces become
pictures Of the most gratifying amenity
But quick Italian will make out your wants
on the slightest clue. But my descriptions of
life here are of my own observation. They
may be meagre and too small to sustain any
fair and complete differences as to the state Of
society. Yet, have set down naught in
malice" ! shall always have deeper love
for Italy, now that have seen her, and a warm.
er sympathy with her long oppressed people
The memory Of her roads, her scenery, her
ruins, her churches, her cities, can never be
come dim. Here there is matter to awaken
aud to touch every feeling in the human soul
Admiration, love, pity, derision and contempt
respect and Indignation, by turns occupy tn,
mind. Here are the empire of the Past anc
the empire of the Present, the Rome of tn,
Caesars and the Rome of the Popes. the on,
blending with the other so that il is Difficult
to tell where the Pagan ends and the Chris
tian begins, and the ruins of the former ever
more suggestive of the overthrow that await
the latter Perchaice, when that last ruiz
comes, as come it will, Italy may have fai
and beautiful restoration. The living Chris
may supplont the dead Christ, whose anguish
ed face and form hangs on all the walls an,
IN all the shrines Of Italy, purge the idol,
from the temples, and make the places tina
were watered by the blood of the apostles an,
martyrs, glorious with the birthright of al
undying freedom. Italia Eoreat.