The Portland daily press., 1868-04-29
Miscellany.
Fashions.

CASAQUES.
The loose paletot is not discarded, but it is
considered quite demi-tolette. In casaques
there Is the half-htting; the tight fitting,
with wide sash tied over it; and the polon-
aise, dsuble-breasted and buttoned slantways
all the way down.
The new models in poult-de-soie and gros-
grain silk are very nicely trimmed with cross
strips partly silk and partly satin, with small
bullet-shaped buttons and narrow crimped
silk fringe; or, again, richly ornamented with
dull gimp work, without jet and black lace
border
The polonaise is very frequently made of
the same material as the dress and without
sleeves. The short dress and polonaise of
silk, poplin, serge, or mohair forms very
pretty walking toilet
Another style is the Marie Antoinette
dress-double skirt and mantelet crossed in
front, and tied in scarf lappets at the back
This toilet is made of silk foulard and all
fancy materials. The upper skirt is much
wider than the under one, and looped up
with sash into very large puff at the
back.
FoULARD SILKS.
or all spring materials, ioulard, or Indian
silk, is certainly the most suitable. 1t forms
nice transition between the heavy silks OF
winter toilets and the lighter materials of the
summer. Foulard dresses are always most
ladylike, and at this season they look most
fresh and dainty. The new patterns of the
season are lovely floTrets of the softest rich
est colors, twining branches mixed with
many-tinted foliage tastelully arranged, or
fine black or dark colored stripes upon a
bright soft colored ground. Japanese silks,
which were already in vogue last autumn,
now appear in still greater perfection for the
spring.
Spanish blonde, that is, silk tulle, with
large raised patterns embroidered in silk,
Is very much used this spring for bonnets,
both in black and white
Colored silk tulle, blonde to match, is also
very fashionable for bonnets'
Bonnets of fancy-colored plated straw or
crinoline are mostly OF the diadem-fanchon
shape, rounded off above the ears.
So many new models appear at this season
that we have but to choose among the pref
test for description.
diadem-fanchon of mauve-colored tulle;
the tulle is arranged in small cross-p leats
and bordered with mauve blonde. In front
bullion of tulle is ornamented with tiny
bows of satin OF the same shade. Two very
wide scarf ends of tule and blonde fall at
the back and are joined together in front by
BY series of tiny bows OF satin.
In fancy plated grey straw, small fam
chon with lappets, of straw also, entirely
lined with blue silk, quilting of blue ribbon
IN front, crossway band and rosette of blue
ribbon on the top; bunch of white asters at
the side; the straw lappets are joined togeth
er by cravat bow of blue ribbon.
Many fancy straw bonnets are made of the
above shape. Another new model is the
bourreLet, tiny bonnet, with the front borde
rolled back SO as to form a thick rouleau.
One bourrelet bonnet was Of rice-straw,
and trimmed with beautiful garland of Par
mese violets, with foliage. At the back,
small violette of Chantilly lace; strings of
gros-grain ribbon edged with lace.
Another, again, was of golden-brown straw
with blonde, ribbon, and flowers all Of the
same rich tint.
We prefer the diadem to the bourrelet
shape. The former is very graceful, with
full mantilla yiolette at the back.
Some ladies give up the bonnet entirely,
and wear the lace couture.