The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1868-08-13
Y h " I @ ID.
An URequivOcsl waGerfnR-Plaoo - It's
ROmancS and ats Reality.
From our OJUT COTresponde1iL

VENICE, July 28.
By this time, I presume, Philadelphia like
London and Paris, is out OF town; gone to the
wateringplaces in order, more extravagantly,
TO enjoy the hot weather. This place, being
abominably hot, the living extremely dear, and
the accommodations equal to the worst in
America, was persuaded that 1t was the city Of
which was in search for the usual seaside rest
and recreation. Venice as a waterlngplace, is
an unequivocal success. There is nothing to
hinder man fIom bathing on the front door
step, t fishing out of the second-story window.
These liberties must be valuable to Veni-
tians, who live almost entirely on oil
and maccaroni, which cannot be caught
by hook and line, and who never go in to
bathe for fear of washing off the dirt. We
arrived In the night but the moon was not out,
nor was the grand canal beautifully illuminated
by the lights OF the innumerable palaces" The
gondoIa was not q fairy boat, nor wizard skiff,
nor anything OF that sort, but resembled very
much Down East punt, with a tomahswk
nailed on the end, and the gondolIers romanti.
cally dressed in red flannel shirts, did not sing
"beautiful snatches of Itals's favorite songs,'
but swore dreadfully. Day hangs over us like
molten cloud, and night comes with chills and
fevers. Venice lies dead, entombed in her
churches and her fifteen hundred palaces. Her
past is her only glory; her history her only re-
demption.
Situated In a marsh surrounded by sea sick
ness and salt water, pcrfumed by the sweet scent
OF dried fsh-too long Gead-she invites the
curious from all lands to come down to her to
assist her in paying her taxes. The descendants
of scuh noble names as Cauova and Titan
peddle shell jewelry or play the tamborine aud
fiddle on the Palszzo st. Marco. There are few
Americans here and quite number of English,
and today l had the pleasure of seeing the
smiling face of a well.known Philadelphian at
the table d'hote. AS general rule. 1 find the
Americans are the most easily pleased. They
always enjoy a good thing. They have been
known to smile with six in the room, at four
dollars day. Such disposition 1 take to be
the natural characteristic of people whose
pride it is always TO act without restraint. The
English insist on grumblng, and they always
get what they want. The American travels for
pleasure, and thinks he finds it; the Englsbman
travels as q matter of business, and gets
all the accommodations for half price,
1t is, however, the young people who are the
most readily deluded. For them it's delightful
fun to get up at i've o'clock in the morning, and
tear around to see things of which they know
nothing, through the blistering heat or deathly
damp, until midnight. "It's so jolly.n They
don't care if pa is grumpy, and ma so fatigued.
We have beautiful little blonde at our hotel,
who is the daughter of dry goods merchant in
New York. She leaned over the table to ask If
l had seen the Armenian Convent, where Lord
Byron was taught the Armenian language, and
which is about two miles out in the Adriatic,
with no shade trees between here and there.
"You should go by all means, the sail is charm
ing, and they have beautiful portrait of Lord
Byron there, aud mummy three thousand
years old" "Bess me, you don't say so :" eyes,
and we had such fan ?n At the same time
the perspiration was running down the
pretty little blondes cheek, and the skin was
coming off her pretty little blonde nose.
took her to be very fair representative of what
Venice might have been in her youth, before
republican life had been buried in Austrian
tyranny. Travellers coming to Venice must
hire courier; there is no evading 1t. II is
impossible to go anywhere or find anything
without one take it that a reasonably active
man, with the assistance of a courier, can 'do',
the city in two days. That is, OF course, il he be
not an artist or an architect. One day is gene
rally spent on the water and one on the land
The Islands, the Grand Canal, a majority of the
palaces, the opera house, and about twenty
churches are done by water, or at least usually
50. The Doge's Palace, the Church of st. Marc,
the Academy OF Fine Arts, the Kings Palace,
the Ratio, the Bridge of Slghs, and the tombs
of Titan and Canova, may be done on land. 1t
Is possible TO get along on about eight dollars
per day in gold, provided you don't give too
much to the beggars, and the churches have
not more than four attendants each. From
Paris we are about forty hours and the ride not
unpleasant if you enjoy the prospect of an
abundant harvest and an unlimited supply of
wine. Ifyou intend coming here come in the
spring: The summer is dreadfully hot, aud the
fall IS iull OF mosquitoes. II. Il. e.