The native Virginian. [volume] (Orange Court House, Va.) 1867-187?, 1868-11-20
THE oELEBRATED CASHMERE sHAwLs.


most exquisite in workmanship Is the
Indian shawl. Uniting richness OF des-
ion with freshness of coloring. it has no
rival i'm the world. 1t is not only the
most splendid tissue ever wrought by
the hand of man, but is also the most
solid and durable, whether it aGorns the
shoulders of Il modern belle or the waist
of an Eastern potentate.
The Vale OF Cashmere, where roses
ever bloom, is the seat of this manufac-
ture. The Cashmere shawl is woven by
hand from the finest wool grown III
Vhibet. The wool is first spun and then
dyed. 1t is then woven in segments,
which are afterward joined so skilfully
as to leave no trace of the seam visible.
The flowers arc then worked in by hand,
after wh cl the shawl is cleaned and
covered with strong size. made prln-
cipally OF ice, when it is ready for mar
ket. 49,
Shawls were formerly made in pairs,
bur since European dealers have ltivad-
ed Cashmere, more than two aie made
from .he same pattern.
Ifdestined for Europe, the shawl has
to be disencumbered of its PROVISIONAL
dressing. For this purpose it is washed
III the river flowing from the Lake OF
{ ashmere, whose waters are reputed 10
preserve the colors, II property attriDllt-
ed to the aromatic plants growing on It's
banks. A sheet fpaper is laid between
each fold OF the shawl. 1t is enclosed III
four or five envelopes. and packed with
the utmost precaution.
SO delicate and complicated work
can only e accomplished 5y workmeh
versed in i: from infancy. anu VINO. Nv,
| a Il tttan n
| with moderate wages.
| The best workmen scarcely earn more
than from three to tour cents day.
| The low price of labor VIII always ren
der Europe tributary 20 Asia for this
lIxnrjous production. A shawl which
cost S4O0 at Cashmere, or at Umritsur,
in the Puniaub, where these shawls are
also fabricated, could not be made for
less than $4,000 to $1,000 by European
workmcn. The material only enters
into twenty per cent. ofthe cost. Hence
many French manufacturers have iornl-
ed establishments at Cashmere and Um
rtsur, where shawls are made by native
workmen: but in too many Instances
they have introduced theil own designs
which have changed the national char
acter of the shawl. and often IN thes'
cases the beautiful tissue is concealed
beneath "A ma OF embroidery.
Shawls of inferior quality are als'
made at Loodiana, where this lndustfl
was introduced by Il colony from Cash
mere, recruited every year from the val
ley. The colors of those made at Loo
diana are very solid, and bear constan
Washing. They are warranted in brll
: liaucy Of tintl, consisting principally O
brown, black, dark bottle-green. an
indigo blue. The colors most priced ar
I n dull yellow. shades of aramanth, ant
most brilliant of all, kind of ros
pomeeranate of the finest thread, use
! only in shawls of the finest quality.
The favori.c color in India is the brgl
i copper green; it fades, but Is very bri
liant and costly and is chiefly employe
: where palms are introduced into the d'
y sign. Another shade OF the same coli
is used for the warp of the finest shawl
as is also turquoise blue, a most cost
. color.
AT Looliana the workmen are seate
: three together at The same time, IN iroI
of A cylinder upon which the warp
: rolled. Each has at least fifty shuttle
: The chief sits in the middle and gIlld
the other two. In one pair OF shawls
!. SIX hundred days work; they won
: cost at Loodiana. If of the finest quail
) made. about 500. The white shaw
:. with green palms are the coarsest.
!" These Loodiana shaw Is are heavy, {
palms stiff and uagrareful, and they a
I" destitute of the softness so admired
- = Europe; of this they gain in a great d
Z gree by wear and washing. From th'
! cheapness, Cashmere cannot conto
" with Loodiana in the Indian market.
y. What the Indian produces by years
=, :, manual labor. the Earopeon now obtal
- in n short time by means OF uachlner
y Shawls are made in the jacquard lo'
a. by workma ship the most Intricate a
oi oi complicated.
VI An attempt has been made to imit'
these sliawls in France, tut the pertt
ie softness OF the Indian shawl has neN
=, vet been eqnalled. :.
or Another great merit OF the lndi
% cachemore consists in the harmony a
a" effect produced from the proper dist
~ button of color and the rich inventl
h. of their patterns; these give them
~ evident superiority over the FreI
~ shaw,s, which last are chiefly distil
'' 'r ushed by ,eir well chosen designs
. the perf CT regularity of their weavl
equally apparent both in the ground
birder. The cashmere wool is the III
delicate and difficult of all tissues
ed work, so that the Eastern natives,
un ,heir success in weaving 1t. have ear