Democratic enquirer. [volume] (M'arthur, Vinton County, Ohio) 1867-1873, 1868-09-10
gIews amo glIiBttllauu.
The LatestFashima for Ladies'.
From. Harper's Bazarl


they at least are convinced that the reign
of crinOline and its fashionable adjunct the
pannier, will be long gone--asfor the health
and comfort Of women we hope it may. A
return to the old fashion of wearing sew
eral heavy skirts instead Of light, flexible,
supporting hoop. would be almost intol.
erable. ff9,ff
On visiting the factories and comparing
the different styles of skirt worn since the
revival Of crinoline in 1856, we agree with
the propretors that the shape to be intro
duced for the next season is admirable. In
the first place, it is slightly larger than the
shape worn during the summer. The
heavy materials of winter clothing make
this necessary. The pannier fullness at
the back is made to curve gracefully, in
stead of bulging out suddenly. The front
of the skirt is perfectly straight, fitting
smoothly over the figure, while in the back
is gradually sloping train, Aaring out at
the edge just enough to avoid coming in
contact with the heels.
Promenade skirts to be worn with short
dresses, will be from two aud a quarter to
two and half yards in circumference for
ladies of medium height skirts worn
With trains on full dress occasions measure
three yards and a half
The new open fronts, or winged p"
skirts, are the novelty of the season. They
give complete freedom for every motion,
walking sitting dancing, or stepping in
and out Of carriage The upper part of
the skirt is laced together then come q few
hoops, and below there is the open winged
front. II is on impossibility for the feet to
become entangled in this skirt as the limbs
are free from hoops in front, from the knee
down spiral spring has been invented
to hold the steels securely around the
curved opening This open front may be
applied to any hoop. The tounoure is
graceful The skirt slopes toward the bot
tom, measuring eighty-five inches in cir
cumference. The skirt may be put in the
tub and washed thoroughly
The Zephyrina Empress is n round skirt,
slightly trained, and especially adapted to
the short walking dress There are twen-
ty-fye exceedingly light hoops The
winged zephyr" is larger and has more
decided train, to be worn with full dress.
A walking-skirt, a PqRnier has q closed
front. The panhier curve is simply but
perfectly formed by several spiral springs,
almost contiguous to each other in front,
but extended to six or seven inches behind.
We also saw new wall,ing-skirt, made
after the French model with but few hoops
at the hip, and great many at the bottom,
or exposed portions Of the skirt. The skirt
may be bought with the pannier shape
very full nt the back, and beginning to en-
large Just back of the point of the hip, Or it
may he plainly sloped, and supplied with q
spinal pannier to support the hoop and
give the pannier effect
The crinolines imported by modistes for
their most exclusive customers are much
more expensive than the American skirts.
French skirts Are always made Of muslin,
and contain only from five to ten hoops
A pannier hustle Is part Of each skirkrthe
hips are merely covered by muslin without
springs, and the greater number of hoops,
seldom more than ten, are between the hip
and knee. There is usually an arrange
ment to lace the whole skirt back of the
figure, leaving the front straight and plain.
Another, Of muslin, has gored cover,
trimmed with futed rutfles. The cover
may be buttoned on below, and will serve
rs pctticoat This is an excellent ideG
for stout ladies with large hips, as the bulk
is not increased by petticoats. Another
Partisan skirt, of very graceful shape, Is
covered with cambric around the outer
edges, while the waist and hips have only
tapes, with straps and buckles, by which
the skirt may be shortened or heightened
for street dress or for trains.
PannieIs will certainly continue in
vogue There are at least twenty different
patterns from which to choose. We ad-
wise our readers 10 buy pNnnier skirt with
a tournure forming part Of the skirt, as
this is less complicated, and does away
with the necessity of having two belts
about the waist II separate pannier is
worn, we think those made of puffed hNir
cloth give the most natural contour to the
figure. They are soft round and yielding,
and by enlarging the appearance Of the
hips make the waist look much smaller
As hair cloth is expensive, an excellent
pannier is made Of muslin with flexible
whalebones running from the waist down
ward, held position by tapes underneath.
Spiral spring bustles are used beneath the
hoop to support it, and give the pannier eff
feet to old style skirts. A variety Of other
panniers are made with steel springs to be
worn outside the crinoline.
coRsETs.
Ladies should make it arule to have their
eorsets made to order, instead of purchas-
ing those ready made The ordinary cheap
corset has neither beauty of contour nor
compactness of construction. The steel
busks are too narrow to support the figure
or form proper foundation for the front
of the coTsage, and are often made of steel
of so low q quality that it breaks easily
In giving an order for corsets it is neces-
sary to send the measure around the chest,
below the arms, from beneath the arm to
the hip, the circumference of the hips and
the waist measure.
French women, who are very particular
about their figures, have their corsets made
in three pieces, laced at the sides as we'll
as the back. The busks and whalebones
at the back are very long. An authority
in matters Of fashion says that the waist
may vary from II to 90 inches, according
to the general proportions of the figure. =,
There can never be prescribed size for
the waist, since fashion changes the lergth
and position of it. A line drawn halfway
between the hip and the lowest rib gives
the point at which the tapering waist
reaches its smallest dimensions. The pan
ier as now worn produces the appearance
of small waist tl.l r-g
The material of the corset should be
yerYSirm and strong. Flimsy and elastic
materials soon stretch out of shape. Fine
coutil is expensive, but 1t is economy to
buy it, as it wears we'll. The corset should
be large enough TO meet in the back.
The popular glove-ftting corset is worthy
of commentator II is made without
cores, and cut on correct principle, by
which perfect fit is obtained. 1t consist.
of three pieces; the bust waist and hips
are cut separately. The spring-latch fasten
ing is o great improvement ON the old
fashioned clasps. The lower hook is con
structed with spring, which is pressed OF
the latch opposite, adjusting the othe
hooks and studs in moment. The buslys
of flexible steel, adapt themselves to ever,
undulation of the figure.
An imported corset, that took prize q
the Paris Exposition, has 0 hundred whale
bones. A French corset, called the ''Biide'
Own. y is made of glossy coutil that look