The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1868-05-20


in KawaIhae, but as TO choosing il for a resi-
dence-that is another matter. 1t Is dull
place, TO say the least of it, its modern at
fractions being confined to Mr.. Conway
store; its antique, 10 a mighty heap Of stones
piled up with a total disregard Of Greek or
Roman architecture, by nc means calculated
to inspire the visitor with high opinion Of
the artistic taste Of the ancient Hawaiians.
This apology for q temple or heiau dates,
understand, from the time of Kamehameha
rs conquest Of the Island, and sprang into
existence In few days at the command Of
the then all-powerful priests Thousands
of hands, from every part Of the Island,
worked at il with will, as serfs. The heavy
earthquakes of late have had but little con-
sideration for this relic Of by-gone time,
and have treated the walls of the structure
roughly.
At Kswaihae there still lives an old man
with suow-white hair, and a skin dried up
like that of a mummy, who is said to be over
one hundred years of age, but this fact he Is
alike unable to confirm or deny. He recol-
lects, however, distinctly to have been already
grown-up boy at the time when Capt. Cook
arrived with his vessel, which they all took
to be an island that had sprung up from the
seal Tie old chap is rather queer fish, and
not much given to talking, but his general
bearing is, that he knows a good deal more
than he chooses TO say. Perhaps he is aware
of the ancient proverb, 81 tdcWiSses, pliloso-
phiis mdnsuisses,' - and therefore holds his
tongue not to lose his reputation.
Leaving Kawaihae at sunrise, and turning
towards the East, | was struck blythe beauty
and grandeur of the bold outlines Of the 81
gantic dome of Mauna Kea the White
Mcuntain-clearly and distinctly traced In
sharp relief on a tropical sky. From what
ever side this beautiful mountain may be
seen, it always presents new aspect to the
eye, wonderful panorama of endless variety
and novelty of attraction. Many longing
glance did throw up at its venerable head,
covered with eternal snow, that seems TO
look defiantly down upon the mighty ocean.
Many time, in former ages, has he sent his
terrible streams of liquid fire far into those
frightened waters, but no tidal-wave ever
reached him in his proud and solitary abode
high above the clouds / will visit thee
some other day, Giant of the Pacifici long
for bath in thy clear, fresh-water lake, and
/ want a shot at some of the thousands of
wild animals that are abusing thy generous
hospitality A dark and ominous cloud was
overhanging the twin-giant of Mauna Kea,
hiding his summit completely from 10y sight.
If the attractions of the seaport of Hawai-
hae are moderate, do not know what to say
of those of Laupahoehoe. II most decidedly
beats any place ] have ever yet seen, and l
have no wish to ever see II again. Its sole
glory consists in the undisputed possession
Of new church. costing 81 900, paid in hard
cash, which circumstance fully accounts for
the pennyless state of the Inhabitants, none
of whom Gas was assured by reliable au-
thority, and found no reason to disbeIeve
it), had a solitary half-erown left In his
pocket. 1t is, no doubt, a very good plan to
lay treasures up in heaven, where they are
sure not to get rotten, but have also found
il a good thing to be able to sit down at a
clean table and eat wholesome food, like
civilized creature, with something better,
now and then, than the eternal temperance
cocktail The church In Laupahoehoe is kept
open all the week, the congregation gather
ing there frequently during the day FOR the
laudable purpose of religious entertainment,
which is no doubt very satisfactory, but the
store is shut all the week through, which
seemed to me less satisfactory. The store
keeper "a half white, who looked very thin
in the face, and complained of feeling dry
about the throat, answered my inquiry about
the reason of his keeping the establishment
shut, with a contemptuous shrug of the
shoulders, and short hysterical laugh that
showed him to be of a somewhat philosoph-
ical turn of mind. What good would II do
to open that cursed store " be said, with dry
resignation. "If a customer wants anything,
why, here | am, close by" The man sold
from so TO rs cents on an average during
fortnight, and did not wonder any longer
might take that turn in Laupahoehoe, even
under less provoking circumstances.
found my native country to be represented
in this famous place. The man used to be
gay, devil-may-care sort of bird, when
had formerly known him, but Laupahoehoe
had proved too much for him. Poor bird
His philosophy was Of a far more impetuous
and stormy nature than that Of the patient
and resigned store-keeper, with whom, how
ever, he had one complaint in common, viz. :
that of an extraordinary dryness about the
throat. Although no medical man, yet |
could easily guess at the cause Of this coin
cident phenomenon, and / therefore pro-
posed to color their temperance cocktail with /
a drop of my medicine. Never was propo- |
sition more eagerly embraced, and the effect |
of the improved beverage upon the com
plainants was wonderful to behold. The /
resignation Of the store-keeper [
gradually gave way to feeling of bitterness
and disgust towards mankind and worldly
in general, and his store business
in particular, while the soul Of my country
man, taking wings, left LaupahoehOe, with
its new church and its beggarly population,
far behind, and flew away towards the joyful
and glorious banks Of old Father Rhine,
where il seemed to settle down permanently
for the night, for endless were the songs Of
wine and love which he kept roaring out
until the last drop of the stimulant was gone.
L uc hlOIc-hccpcT, mthllWult, Hdu Occu III
1ulgiDg in gloomy reflections about the des-
perate state Of his worldly affairs, TILL at last,
be fell soundy asleep, which example soon
followed.
On the following day, unwilling to pay the
sxorbitant charge which the industrious in
habtants OF Laupahoehoe demanded for
couple Of horses to take us over to HilO,
resolved to stay day or two longer, hoping
they would change their minds and lower
heir pretensions, in which | was mistaken,
however. In consequence Of this delay fell
N again with two Of our scattered party,
)ne of whom was still dressed In the ban
iitti fashion. Both came to stay at Laupa-
Toehoe for the night, but as their provisions
we're long since exhausted, our fare was
ather scanty, consisting chiefly Of hard crack
RS and the unavoidable temperance cocktail.
IN vain did we try our utmost to induce
ome of the natives to go for more palatable
God at place a few miles off, on the road to
lilo, offering them a gold piece for their
r. 4