Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1868-01-03
From Frank LesIie's MsgaxineJ
What Should be WOv N and What
Should Not.

N
What Should be WOv n and What
Should Not.
The season will be late this year in Paris
The Great Exhibition detained many fam
lilies in town longer than usual in the sum-
mer, and the fine autumn weather we have
been enjoying entices them to remain IN
their country chateaux until very late In
the winter, We shall not see many of them
back again before New Years day. .riI4
Glancing at the tout ensemble o. fashions,
such as they appear this winter, we are
glad to note that the stiff classical style OF
the First Empire is not likely to predomi-
nate altogether in the female toilet.
There is strong reaction just now
against the tendency to go back entirely to
the very nnbecoming style of dress of the
Empress Josephine and her court. Let us
hope that good taste will triumph in the
end, and that we shall not be condemned
to wear the altogether short waists and
narrow scant Jourreaur of the period we
speak of. -r
At the present moment modern fashion
seems to be choosing with great freedom
from the models in vogue at very different
historical periods, from the middle ages to
the French Revolution. And this produces
great variety in the toilets that are now
worn; each lady selecting that particular
stvle and pattern best suited to her face and
figure.
The materials most employed this winter
are, as we have already said, heavy and
thick. Different kinds of cloth and cotton
velvet are used tor ladies' complete walk
ing costumes. Visiting dresses are made
OF rich gros-grain silk, satin, and silk vel
vet. Evening toilets are Of moire-antique
shot, or brOcaded silk, or light-colOred
satin. -stu al ,-4l-f-ei 1850 -no p
Short dresses, though much worn. are not
become general. The cloth costumes, of
which we spoke above, have more fre-
quently long looped-up dress-skirt than
a short one. The skirt is caught up in three
or five different places in Nat folds. which
are fastened down with three buttons
Upon dark blue, brown, or violet cloth,
these buttons are generally of gilt metal
TIE loose paletot is fastened with similar
buttons. Gilt buttons also look well
upon the dark black and white water
prof tweed costumes which are fashion,
able, for the first time, this winter In Paris.
Macfarlane cloaks with deep capes are
sometimes worn with these instead of the
paletot. TlAc saqafI 4at -
Jet is quite gone out of fashion as trim
ming Jet beads are only placed in very
small quantities upon the handsome gimp
borders employed for ornamenting velvet
mantlee. Fringes Of 1long pendent jet
grelots are also used to edge some gar
rnents, but beyond this jet beads are very
rarely seen in modern trimmings. q
A small quantity of gold. as n relief to
dark, sombre-colored materials. Is allowed
in the toilet by the most fastidious taste.
These gilt buttons and ornaments are fre-
quently seen upon dresses, while most bon
nets are trimmed with gilt leaves or al
grettes. -0s is7t ,1i..t
Fur and feather borders are used for
trimming silk, satin, or velvet visiting
dresses; the latter is more elegant, but far
less durable than the former. These dresses
are made in the Empire or Princess shape,
that is. gored, and with the skirt and bodice
cut all in one. Sometimes they are fastened
slantways in front, and left little open at
the throat, with or without revers, accord
ing to taste. -9i-l
Among the new models of the season we
notice dress of golden brown satin, made
In the shape above described, but without
revers. The bodice is edged round with a
beautiful border of the tips of peacock's
feathers. A similar border Is placed on
either side of the front part of the dress,
in the shape of an apron, and the centre
part is ornamented all the way down with
light punches of the same feathers.
A dress of black and violet brocaded
poult is trimmed round the bottom
and up both sides of the front width with
border of black feathers tipped with vio-
let. Thus the feather border is often per-
feet match with the material of the dress.
and the effect produced is very lovely. We
also very mucn admiru borders of golden
pheasants' feathers upon Bismarck satin or
velvet dresses sff''l "
A most ladylike visiting toilet consists of
a train-shaped dress of black or garnet
colored (very fashionable) silk velvet, and
paletot OF the came, double- breasted, lined
with quilted silk and trimmed with bor-
der OF of chinchilla. Muff of the same fur
or of velvet, with merely a border of fur to
match with the paletot. -i z ,sH
A very rich dress Is of black gros-grain
ci vuif mir n frof n ha Fri mi ,(r
of this dress is most elaborate; in consists
of five rouleaux of ruby-colored satin with
long pendent jet grelots placed at equal
distances over them, and of a handsome
bride of black guipure lace, put on SO as to
simulate tunic, with three of the above
described rouleaux above it. Double
breasted paletOt OF the same material and
trimmed to correspond. @ p
Then we see agreat variety of short cos
tunes, generally preferred by young ladies'
composed Of double skirts, and mostly of
two colors; the under-skirt is of blue
green, brown, or violet silk, and trimmed
with black plated satin braid the upper
skirt Is black, and orDamented with the
same braid. The bodice and paletot are
also trimmed in the same style.
Other short costumes have the upper
skirt and paletot of velvet trimmed with
dull silk braid, and fringe Of oliveshaped
silk grelots called Jrange- -oliuettes. The un-
der skirt Is OF grOS-graln SILK. 4g
A dinner dress Is of light gray poult-de-
sole. The train-shaped skirts partly COW
cred with short fourreau dress of blue
silk, with very low square cut bodice,
above which shows the bodice of the gray
dress, which is high. The fourreau dress
is fastened all the way down with rich Or
namental buttons. Long nsoyen- age sleeves
of blue silk; tight under-sleeves of gray
silk, similar to the under-skirt. 4sf
Another evening dress is of green and
white brocaded poult-dc-soie. The widths
remain partly divided at the bottom; sill
yer cord is placed round the edge aud over
the seam of each width. A handsome
fiounce of white lace, placed upon the un-
der-skirt, shows between the openings at
the bottom of the dress. The very low
square cut bodice, and long sleeves a Ia
juiue are also Ornamented with silver cord;
the sleeves are lined with white satin. A
Gemi-high chemisette and long sleeves OF
white lace are worn with this beautiful
dress. as' 20 il4
1t will be well, perhaps, to explain that
the only difference between the nsoyen-age
and a 10 juice sleeves, both of which are long
and loose, Is. that the former are square and
the latter pointed at the bottom. Some
times the q la juiue sleeve, being pointed
is cut out all round into vandykes or seal
lops. AS for the nsoyen age sleeve, the low
er part of it, falling under the elbow, is
sometimes buttoned, as we see them i'm
pictures of the period from which they are
borrowed.
We cannot speak this month as fully as
we could wish about ball dresses, but few
of which are seen as yet. but we know al,
ready that the Louis XIV style is likely tt
prevail in all evening toilets.
Double skirts and tunics oftulle or gauze
will be worn over silk under-slips, anG
feathers and gold ornaments and jewels
be much used as trimmings. The two
following are pretty toilets which are tt
come out at one OF the first ballsot the sea-
son: rrI .F.sFf, lad 1.A
The first is dress for a young lady,
Under-skirt and low bodice Of blue glact