The New York herald., 1868-03-15

Partisan ladies do not wear 1t at oil. While
smilingly listening to all the pious concerts and
chamber music, of which the Empress has set the
example at the Tuileries by drawing programme
out herself for the I'd of March, who knows but
what the scrubbiest undercoat Of Carmelite serge
is not making bellies repent as fast as they can
Piety has its reward, but it is beyond the
comprehension of man. This Is exactiy
the case with Isabella of Spain. NO one
knows why the Empress Eugenie was not
presented with the golden rose by his Holiness,
the Pope. why this smuch loved, much esteemed
daughter - who has founded SO many benevolent
institutions, visited hospitals tended the sick, and
whom the Italians in their sycophancy, call Sancta
EuQenia, !" was not thought worthy of the golden
Gift while Isabella is guarding it within the sane
tuary of her private oratory. People wonder,
repeat but wonderment is q neutral state OF the
mind and my energies have led me beyond that, kind
fashion readers. have looked into the question
mornings after mornings before the hour when
visitors usually pour in and show of their new,
complicated walking costumes and the result is
that Isabella is legitimist, and all the Bourbons
are the Pope's friends, whereas the BOnapartes are
only his servants, his faithful protectors; their
arduous task is to keep him home and liberty.
This honor must content their zeal therefore, all
the musk ana the amDer lot lsdDclla.
It is very pretty rose, and the perfumes are
deposited within the heart of the centre flower,
round which quantities of dear little buds bristle
up. The stalk is of course thorny and the whole
group is Of the ,purest kind Of deep yellow gold,
magnfcently chiselled veined and wrought cum
ningly."
In fact, it is almost too cunning-something like
the new round velvet hats, with bands of gold and
steel in lace ruche on the rim, which young ladies
now wear on their eyebrows. Apropos the
clergy were much befogged on Ash Wednesday by
these little round hats. My opinion s that they
might have been left at home on that occasion for
wearers focked round the altar for pinch of
ashes on their foreheads they either got it dabbed
on their agrettes on their oses, and the effect
of the latter must have bee more ludcrous to the
priests in front of the line than to those operated
on. Many of the clergy were so scandalized that
they were content to pronounce the penitential
phrase over the fair penitents' heads and put on
no ashes at all.
over heads for the whole week preceding Lent.
The most sensational of all the headdresses seen
was the Belle Poule and here the tinge OF history
which colored my childhood shall add interest to
this architectural invention. The Belle POule was
a vessel and sustained SO famous a combat that
under the First Empire all court ladies wore a
small vessel with hen lpoule) peeping over.
board just on the top of their heads Caps and
a mania then as no caps and no hats discernible
nowadays. 1t was a great compliment in those
times to tell lady at the opera thus rigged out
that 'her head was conquest" Belle Poule
was also the name of the vessel on which the
Duke of Joinvile brought back the remains Of
Napoleon l. in l840 from st. Helena.
The headdress as worn on this carnival was
firstly goody basis of curled and powdered hair
leaving fiat space on the top for sea waves fig
ured by green gauZe slightly waxed and boutt-
Tonne. On this rose the man-Of-war with crimson
sides made of satin, the sails all white poult and
the cables all white pearls The national colors
Aoa fa1 avh hioI An ipma M rod fal
from the back over the left shoulder. The brave
ship was neither small nor light and a wearer with
this on, all sails out, looked invncible.
Many enterprising beauties, however, adopted
less sensational coifihres There was cOllec-
ton of varied chgnons, brads and frisettes at one
of the incest American costumed balls of the sea-
son, which was Mrs. Downings. Dancing was
kept up there until four, when gray morning was
getting the upper hand of the stars and carriages
came rolling down the avenue de Flmperatrce in
search of the unweared dancers.
Some Of the prettiest women in Paris were
present Mrs Downing wore magnificent Louis
XIV Of black velvet trimmed with rufied Alencon,
the queen of laces, and this was ornamented with
crushed roses.
Miss Harbeck was Polonaise in yellow and
white satin, blue boots and low bodice.
Mrs. Norton was true VarsOvenne in high blue
satin bodice braided with gold, ruby velvet
jacket flung over the shoulders bordered with
ermne and richly studded with gold, white short
skirt having round the bottom band of blue satin
embroidered with gold, high blue satin boots with
gilt heels, gilt clappers and military ruby velvet
hat on one side with square top, worked to match
the cloak, and an aigrette
Mrs. Bouligny was muse. She wore an under
train of blue satin, over which very flowing black
satin robe embroidered with gold Her bodice was
of worked bnttercup satin, very low and no
sleeves, for the spanged gauze which hoated
around her arms from the shoulders cannot be
called sleeve. In her hair she wore diadem OF
gold shooting stars, all her back hair flowing and
wavy under veil made of the same glittering
tulle as over her arms.
The gentlemen were an admixture of all cmes.
/ think Mr. Zabriska, as a very dark Russian, in
velvet looked noblest, but DR.. Pratt, as an Ara
bian, was fiercest.
coming wedding and of the preparations being
made for that event. She marries Mr.. CASTOR de
Brimont, and will wear on the day of the marriage
contract, when ladies put their signature down to
a very important document, the same toilet,
though in different colors, that worn by Madame
de Morny on her wedding day-a white brocade
underskrt, over which a tunic of pink poult
trimmed round with Alencon, the front width en-
tdblier. On the high bodice pink bouquet, and
the same in her hair. An AenCon waist belt with
flowing ends will complete this regal attire.
A sale which is to take place at the Minister'S
for the Foreign Department will assemble all the
fashionable celebrities Of Paris. The object in
view is the foundation Of q hospital for poor Ger
mans All the wives of the wealthiest German
bankers at the head of whom Baroness James
de Rothschild will oflicate as lady commissioner.
patronesses are crowd of duchcsses and q
sprinkling of fair Americans. cigar will, of
course fetch louis and the result of the lottery
for bachelors will be pretty pink bonnet, pair
of garters or pug dog, whereas blind fortune
will surely award meerschaum pipes, snuff boxes
aud spurs to ladies'. The tables are to be held by
the handsomest of the association, toilets will be
high but very elegant, and the sale will last three
davs. beginning on the I'd of March. Ample de-
tails shall be forthcoming in my next, when some
definite communication can be also impaired con
cerning new colors, &c.
Mile. Adelina Patti has recommended her series
Of Sunday evening receptions: the Supcrnend-
ent Of the Imperial Museums, Mr.. de Nicuwer-
kcrkc his Fridays, from which ladies are to be, az
usual, excluded. | cannot close without giving
your readers story about Mr. de Nieuwerkerkc.
lie Is a notorious curiosity seeker. and the object
relating to the story is by him coveted looking
glass. In his own private collection there are We.
netian mirrors framed with embossed silver out OF
number, but one of these precious antiquities Of
tho Laura hannnna 10 rcnnire q ncndant. and the