The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1868-10-31
IrRom OUR FASHION CORRESPONDENT. ]

TFRoM OUR FASHION CORRESPONDENT
New. YORK, October %, 1e58.--Panniers
have received very heavy blow. The most
distinguished modistes just from Paris, bring
the news that panniers are very little worn
there, hardly at all by leaders of fashion, and
only in very quiet, modified form. Here for
the time being everybody is pannier mad, all
sorts of materials for all sorts of people must
be made en- pannief, and the consequence Is ap-
pearances frequently the most grotesque
Imagine large, stout women en- pannae'', and
short, bulky women with the superfuous sack
hanging upon their backs! Moreover, while
an artistic can give an air OF grace and dlstnc-
tion to any fashion, an inexperienced hand Will
contrive to spoil the simplest and prettiest de-
sign. Judge, then, the sort OF work that is
often made of the panniers.
The beautiful embroidered robes, the choc-
est fabrics of the season, contain no material
ioicing over their splendor into the deepest
M JurAing and anxiety. The city is searched
ior the exact shade, which is very rarely found,
and an enormous price paid for something to
form the bulky appendage which spoils the
dress. One lady carried the magnificent source
of her trlbulations to French dressmaker
and inquired what she should do. IN Ike it
up without the pannier," said Madame. "But
banners are so fashionable urged the dis
tressed lady. ''Among the tete torettes, yes. if
Madame wishes to copy them," remarked the
modiste. That settled the question; the dress
was made without the BANNER.
To show the prices sometimes asked by
1a.,, II vri1,p ,nr,o n 70
lady recently took rich silk to fashiona-
BILE establishment to have it made up. 1t was
an elegant embroidered pattern and required
very little trimming. She was asked two hun
dred dollars tor making and for the slight fur
nishings, Innings, buttons and the like, re-
quired. She did not leave it.
PICTURESQUE STYLES.
The new styles of dress ara very peculiar in
one respect; they depend altogether on the
grace and taste OF the wearer to make them
becoming. There is no sure basis OF respec-
liability, as formerly, in nice dress and shawl;
both are antedeiuvian. All the dresses ore
costumes" dainty and artistic, or dreadfully
doWdy, according to the instinct, measure OF
refinement, and cultivation of the wearer.
Long cloaks, or shawls worn in the od-fash-
ioned three-cornered style, are out of the ques-
tion, with the Short quaint fanciful toilettes
which are made to be exhibited. Outer gar
ments. therefore, take the form of little jack
cts, looped up capes rosetted, and snawls
worn az long as scarfs, and draped in pic
turesoue highland fashion about the shoulders.
Another method OF arranging shawls is raise
them high upon each shoulder and clasp them
with gold or oxydized silver shawl clasps. Lace
shawls aud cloaks are especially graceful,
draped in this way. Plail shawls are better
worn as scarfs. The method of arranging them
is to fold them lengthwise, place one end over
the right shoulder bring the scarf down under
the left arm, pass it around the shoulder sec
ond time, cross the breast, and throw the sec
ond end over the left shoulder. On that sldo
the end is fastened with large pin, and lett
hanging; on the other the tClds arc fastened
gracefully with clasp. :,
This style has the merit Of sublimatin. quite
common plaid shawls, and constitutes very
warm and comfortable addition to a suit.
NEW WINTER cLoAKs.
Outside garments are necessarily small,
short. and cut in tancitul shapes and designs
to suit the present style OF street costumes.
There is little in fact OF the cloak about them;
thew are manly jackets, fitted like basquess,
and having hood attached, or cape with hood,
or looped with bows or roscttes.
The larger cloaks are worn as wraps, and
consist of succession Of capes, the last FORM
ing only collar. There are also cloalls COM
posed of throo round capes, edged with fringe,
and the upper ono looped at the back and Or
namcntea with rosette with ends.
There is also very comfortable loose pale
tot, in which two c.pes are attached, the upper
one of which is either arranged with doub
folds which form pointed hood, and is orna-
mentcd with bows or tasses, or is looped up in
the centre, a la Colleen Bd,un, with two rosettes.
The new tartan costumes are generally made
with capes, and edged with fringe made OF
balls of chanille in tho colors OF the tartan.
Thew are additionally trimmed with round bow
rosettes of black velvet, with narrow flowing
ends. American ladies find it difficult to ig
more their traditions, and still look upon vc:-
vet cloak as the ne plus ultra OF fashionable
elegance but Partisan ladies rather give eX-
pensivc cloaks the so by, adopt q stylish suit,
and cover it when necessary with an ample
waterproof warm winter suit, and tartan
or waterproof cloak, with scotch shawl to
wear as plaid in change, are in fact oil that
is necessary for comfortable winter wear. Ine
hest thing ladies can do who have old velvet
cloaks is to cut them down in'o jackets or
basuues; but would not advise any one TO ex-
pend the amount of money necessary to the
purchase of q new handsome velvet cloak,
while STYLES are 50 fantastic and unsettled
FASHIONS FOR THRIFTY Pc 'PLe.
Warm durable, economical winter suits are
made of English waterproof Goth or dark
linsev. trimmed with irJad heavily corded
black woo!len braid. called Hercules, braid.
A good. useful style in which to make them is
with single skirt, walkin, length, Hungarian
pelisse lined to the waist, with canton flannel,
beltel and ornamented upon the sides with
single wide military sash, and edged with
fringe. A pelerine cape may be added to the
pelisso for warmth, lined with flannel, III
which case an ordinary lining will be sufficient
for the waist of the pelisse. Scotch llnsey
and English waterproof cloth range from one
to Two dollars q yard. At the latter price,
waterproof cloth OF the best style and quality
is e yard and a half wide, and six or seven
wards make suit. Hercules braid is from one
10 two and three dollars per dozen yards,
according to width. The Scotch poplins, in
the scarlet and blue, and green checks, are
very nice for home dresses, wearing clean, and
always looking we'll and lady-like. 1t is indeed
nearly impossible to wear them out, but they
always are useful to make over for children.
The skirts OF these dresses have no trimming.
Make them long at the back, and full, putting
in the whole width of tue back breadths in
largo gathers; add to the belt rosette, back
and front, maze OF leaves rather largo, and
bound with black velvet. Trim the waist
square with black velvet and chenille fringe;
OF the body may be left open in front, bordered
with velvet and worn with chtm!S9ue.
Pophn veours, a heavily corded fabric, mikes
very handsome dress, quite as handsome as
silk-much more effective than 4 common silk
1t is two dollars and quarter yard, and is
most fashionable in pearl gray, garnet, GRIM
~ lotI cI,o