Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1868-10-25

| lOI every Ody wear anu hign DdimOFdl
boots are the proper winter dress for the
feet.
| Double dresses or "Pompadours" are,
however, very much worn, punched up at
the sides SO as to produce panier, and
these are always trimmed with fringe to
match the waist, and with straps which di-
vide the fullness, and four longitudinal
pufa. Pompadours are worn over long
and short dresses, and are made very useful
in black silk for wear on the street, or with
trained skirts of different eoIors.
There is quite a change in the fashion Of
| furs. The old round broad collar has dis.
appeared, and narrow collars with long
| tips, approximating to the old boas, are
taking their place. The furs in requisition
are sable, mink, squirrel aud ermine.
The latter is very popular for evening
toilet and for chiidren's sets. Sable and
mink are the most in demand where style
is considered. The astrakan is very much
worn for capes and cloaks, and answers for
both cloak and furs. Ii comes in black
and gray.
STAGE ToILETTEs.
The time was, and not 80 long ago, when
players walked the stage clothed in the
historical buskin perhaps, but as far as the
rest of the wardrobe went, inlthe most i'm
| probable of garments. The wild fancy
and scanty properties Of the costumer were
accepted by actor and the public, and any
discrepancy in fit was looked upon with
regret, though the least approach to Chit
in becomingness and effect was received
with loud applause Many Of the "stars"
dressed as salaries permitted or question
able taste dictated, and if they had no
holes in their stockings or their shoes we're
not down at the heel, were regarded as
well-dressed planets. If the spirit of the
drama was only interpreted Alright, and its
material covering made no glaring innova.
tion of stage directions, all seemed good in.
the eyes of manly critics. An appearance
of muslin where it should have been silk,
of cotton in place of velvet, was bravely
overlooked, and the solecism Of decollete
young woman travelling about in the rigors
| of winter scene, or a bail dress worn at a
morning call, did not strike the blow it
should have done to their masculine
hearts. 1t apparently never occurred to
them that people in real life never dressed
according to the situation. All sorts of
lncongruitfes were accepted, because it was
the stage and its proverbial pinchbeck, i'm
pregnable. Improvement came at last, the
actor first discovering how much might be
done, added many touches TO a picture
that, after all, was but crude copy Of the
European stage. But the public, having
once tasted of these new delights, and seen
the little elegances of home faithfully
copied, rolled up lis eyes and asked for
more. Thus,- ten or fifteen years ago,
natural, well-dressed part created a CRATE
full surprise; while to-day it is demanded
by a capricions audience as It's right, and
in about the same manner footpad would
your money or your life. The wealth and
Overlooking prosperity of our large cities
increased also a desire for show and the
requirements Of more perfect costumes on
the stage as elsewhere; and a radical
change was soon observable. There, as in
the audience, each became more lavish, ard
the latter far more exacting. At present,
fashion wields as powerful an influence
over the wardrobe of the actress as over
that of The elegdnte Extravaganza and
luxury reigns in both dressing rooms, and
see that her laws are carried out TO the
very letter, by causing the toiletleI of each
to act upon the desire of the other While
society dresses within an inch of its life,
and with the selfish exactions of an in-
dulged child requires that its amusement
shonld be arrayed in like manner, the
theater will not be outdone, but presses on,
and, ten to one, reaches the winning post
before one Is aware of the example set or
the incentive made use of This universal
race for excitement and show is not con-
fined to any rank or profession; all may
enter the charmed list, 50 promising of vic.
tory or defeat.
The first awakening TO scenic perfection
on this side the water was caused by Wal
lack making Of his little stage a biiou
drawing-room and his company one of fine
ladies and gentlemen. A new era opened
in the theatrical world, the exquisite toih
cites of his fixed stars, combined with thei1
undoubted talent, produced an interest that
the drama of olden days had thought be.
meath its notice. Here was an imitation of
the best Partisan theaters, and it became
success and the criterion. But as often
happens, this Partisan graft on American
soil brought forth wonderful fruit, fruit that
when beheld by the little pleasure-lover,
gave, if not a moral cholera, at least
qualm of envy. Here nightly were TO be
seen rare lace, and diamonds, and perfect
LOllGlNtS ludl BGlOIt Il1u DeGil dlLlOSb III
heard of in theatre on this continent
Truly it was enough to tear ones heart
with admiration and despair. So the wild
rivalry began that that the extraVaga nee
of the times only fostcred Other theaters
took the cue and the marvellous ''get-ups"
of their companies became of more i'm
portance than their histrionie ability to
tormented managers, Nor has Boston been
slower than usual in following the rest of
the flock, and though intermittent, her
seasons" here ranked high in the theatre
cal folds Just now Selwyn's seems to be
the winning favorite though the Museum,
so full of old associations and CuriOsities,
has held its Own against all enCroaChm enis,
every year infusiDg fresh life into its veins
and adding fresh laurels to its undimmed
reputation. Take an orchestra chair any
night at Selwyn's, and turning squsrely
round behold with gratitude the lightened
aspect Of the audience filling this gilded
little house, or look with establishment up
on the stage where some of the richeIt
| dresses disport themselves The play is
| perhaps Insignificant and tedious, but the
intricaCies OF these modes would make the
denouement of Leap Year" or q "Fol-
lies of Night" insipid in comparison Is
it a cultivated or meretricious taste that
greets with applause the sight of Fannie
| Morants or Mrs. Chanfrau's perfect dresses
A question best answered by being left Sc
verely alone, or the conclusion that these
| fair commediennes are thorough hvorites
with the public.
Bot, indeed, glimpse of Mrs. Chanlrau
and her toilettes would repay one for hours
of gaslight and platitudes. Take, for in
stance, her frat appea! ance this season in
a comedy that bat for i,s perfect "set.
ting" would be dull enough. From the
moment the matchmaking Miss OLeary
appeared inthat trying g-habit--which
any playwright should be doomed 10 wear
himself for intrOducing-tO the last act
one is constantly surprised and delighted.
In the second part we have her in a flame
colOred silk en- pdnierS and PompadOur
waist that shows to admiration the beauti
ful throat and chest. The trimming is Of
black satin and lace, and in its graceful
combination, ought to mOllify the bitterest
of anti-panierists Ia the third act Miss
OLeary startle5 the house with an even
ing dress Of aqua marine mOire trained
over a white satin skirt, the whole slOOpe
and mailed" with large gold beads; grad
uated chains OF them fastening the laced
train at each side, and others hanging
rather after the manner of the pawnbrOk-
er's sign, from the apology for a sleeve and
over the model arms. Where did those
beads come from, was the wondering com
ment, as the clinking bells and sweeping
train waved about the jolly little Irish girl
Ii is rude guess, but the earrings worr
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