The New York herald., 1868-02-02
THE FASHIONS.


Gsliantry the Ice and Hsnors freu. ths
Ladies-Sieigb and Carriage Rsbes-BeLind
the sccnes at the italian Opera-Patti,s
Dresses In Her Private Apart meut mud an
tho stage-Diamonds aud Neckiaces-7.hs
"Diva's'' Dying Rsbe-ToiIets 1. the Boxes,
PARIS, Jan. 10, 1868.
Tho exultaton Of the members of the Skating
Club can only be compared to the glce Of party
OF boisterous schoolboys on o snowbalng after
noon. Contrary 10 an expectations, the annual
fste de nan by torchlight was complete success,
thanks to raw, sharp biting wind. which. com
ing direct from the north after slight fall Of
snow. turned the lake at the Bots into splendid
sheet of glazed frost, which all the noblesse
of France and Navarro drew geometrical figures
with the best patent skates, mounted in gilt and
morocco.
The ladies' costumes were conformable to the
description gave in my last correspondence, the
colors thereof varying from green, garnet and
gray velvet to black or blue made la Polonaise
and trimmed with satin and fur; but the gentle
men had adopted . most extravagant novelty
namely. jackets made entirely Of otter, squirrel,
astrakan. or other even richer furs, and velvet
pants. After the first quadrille and first half
foot as the surface of Venetian mirror.
Skating has become such very fast institution
that prizes are now awarded to those who really
distinguish themselves in the art Of perfectng
figure on the frozen element with the left leg,
while performing feat in the airy element with
the other.
German painter has lately woA the title Of
honorary member of tho club for the whole OF this
seasons duration by accomplishing an action OF
courage in the presence of the Emperor and EN-
press, who were on the lake last Tuesday. He
was suddenly impelled by the rapidity of what may
be called his fight, and brought in contact with
lady's scdge (Mme. de Gallife). collision and
the overturn Of the latter inevitable; but the
chivalrous artist preferred probable death to the
disgrace which would attend the impending upset
He therefore threw himself down ON his back, and
Mime. de Gallfet was pushed forward with dizzy
ing velocity. The Empress, ever socitous to en-
courage true gallantry, congratulated the young
Bavaran on his presence OF mind. The name Of
the artist is Erwin, and he is already called more
over, : the king OF skaters" 1t il a social duty
Tor all ladies' who 60 about in low sledges to hope
that he does not feel his bruises.
The prettiest toilets worn by ladies who look
on are velvet costumes, with silk or satin streaks
tignt hitting casaques, bow and sash ends made OF
the same shade rs the streak, and either small
fur caps with steel a grettcs or fur fanchon bon
nets. muff and boot tops en- suite.
Carriage rugs are very rich white bear skins, or
long. feecy Thibet ankets. Regal leopard skins
nang over seds and sweep the ice. Some have
scarlet velvet rugs, lined with satin and fringed
with gold.
My love OF observation having lately led me
behind the side at the Italian opera. it may
not be uninteresting to your readers to have
description of what ] noticed In the way of
fashions from that much enyied and almost uuat-
tainable position, whence commanded a perfect
view Of the house as soon as the curtain drew up
and OF the artists proceedings behind the scenes
when it was let down.
The CONSERVATION of many Of your readers will
be very great when they arc informed that your
fashions correspondent is very often in all sorts
OF bad company; among dukes and duchesses of
the very first water aud hope this confession will
meet with their indulgence when assure you that
the company behind the c0uiisses Of the Italian
Opera is excellent. crowd of gentlemen In
unimpeachab!e evening dress walk about, and
talk as gravely as bankers at the Exchange, while
carpenters, mechanics, .uphosterers aud work
men OF every trade circulate quietly, each attend
ing to his own business, without the slightest
furry or confusion. foreman or two walk
sedately up and down, experimenting their
arrangements. The immediate attendants Of
the theatre take orders in respectful attitude
cf the intelligent manager who looks on
now and then uitering fa or q sol, or mi, or a
succession OF these musical syllables. just the
spirit moves him. Some of :he male chorus singers
do not disdain to lend helping hand in case of
urgency, and when this IS done polite bow is ex-
changed between the condescerding gentleman
in theatrical attire and the workman in plain
blouse.
Meanwhile the ladies' are in their respective
rooms dressing for the coming scene or in the
general mastering departments waiting in readiness.
The evening Of my visit Adelina Patti was to
play la Travata." with Gardoni as Alfredo and
Steler as Gorgio. She was just leaving the stage
after her first ovation and tile train of her magni.
fcent robe was being caught up by one of her at
tendsnts white another was throwing light wrap
per over her on her passage to preserve her from
draught to her private room. We exchanged
few words, and she kindly showed me her istume.
1t was n blue poult de sole. trimmed with garnet
velvet and rich lace; but admired most her lovely
jet hair falling In rich Southern locks over her
snowy throat and shou ders. word which she
whispered in the ear OF an Italian or Spanish maid
in tanclu attire acted as q sesame for was con-
Quoted to door which opened at the touch OF my
pretty leader, and found myself in a snug recess,
from which not one OF her slightest motions
escaped me.
On her second appearance she was in q demi.
toilet, such any lady would at an inti-
mate reunion or musical soiree. The robe was
made OF Chambery pink gauze, having two pleated
dounccs round the train. Over this came chalys
tunic and square bodice, trimmed with deep silk
and Thbet fringe round the bottom, and kept to
the waist by pink belt with rich, wide pink poult
sash and bow behind. A high pink gauze bod ce
seen under the white cbalys corsage. in which
were long muslin sleeves, worked and tight.to the
wrist.
Her third toilet is. perhaps, one Of the best
ideas, the richest ensemble ever yet seen on any
Traviata. 1t is gaia dress Of white tullc be-
spangled with gold. The train underskrt has two
nounces, eacn richly worked with gold spears.
The skirt over this ~ ooped up 10 tastoons, richly
fringed with gold and white twisted silk. he
bodice and agiippine ('ront basque) are of white
poult, cut not Unlike banner on which very rich
clusters Of white and pink flowers fall In profu.
sion. The small span of white bodice IL trimmed
on the left shoulder and on the front In the shape
OF berthe vith the same flowers.
In her ears she wore the diamonds given her by
the Sultan; above her left temple the diamond and
sapphire butt ity presented 10 ber on New Years
Day around her throat necklace Of gems. Her
diamond ring is a souvenir from the Empress.
Her fourth toilet Is the famous dying robe in
which the Diva is supposed to die OF consuup ption.
IL Is q very delicate white muslin, with fiat
pleated iouace. and over II morning wrapper Of
the same, pleated In the same way. Your readers
are not obliged TO wear this when they mean to
die. This is very suitable morning suit when
the sun marks the thermometer with few degrees
above zero.