The western Democrat. [volume] (Charlotte, N.C.) 1852-1870, 1868-06-09
Eastern North Carolina.
Correspondence of the Raleigh Register.1
EDENToN, ~ c., Nav 21, 1868.

EDENToN, N. c., May 21, 1868.
The Blackwater river is important to my series
of letters, only as gateway to North Carolina
1t rises in the vicinity of Petersburg, Virginia
1t crosses the Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad
81 miles from Norfolk, Virginia, at little vii
lage called Franklin, in Southampton county.
Virginia. Here the river first becomes navigable
! A very accommodating boat is run on altern-
ate days-the Ella, Captain Freeman This
boat leaves Franklin at A. NJ, on the arrival
OF the Express train from Norfolk and it arrives
| from Plymouth and Edenton about the same
! hour next morning so as to connect with the
down train to Norfolk.
A passenger who leaves Baltimore at 5 p NJ.
| finds himself, after being well slept and we'll
| l'reaEtasted, the Bay (Chesapeakel. On the
Blackwater boat by half past eight next morn
ing. and on the Albemarle Sound by p. NJ.
\ shad swimming in the same sound. at IL NJ
| stands the chance of finding himself packed in
box of ice, on the wharf at Edenton. by p NJ
at Portsmouth by II NJ, next day and next
| morning on the breakfa table at the Continental
Hotel, Philadelphia
The Constitution of North Carolina should be
! so amended as to strike out the words Grip Van
Winkle"
The Blackwater runs through the Dismal
Swamp, therefore, but one thing can be said of
| the scenery. 1t is right and left, an intermin.
| able swamp growth-reeds cover the surface and
| tall Expresses with hanging moss abound, as far
as the eye reach, which is no great distance,
not over one hundred yards from the waters
edge, SO dense is the forest man turned
loose out of sight of the river, in the swamp had
well cultivate set of claws and turn alligator
Cor he would never get back to civilization again
1t is impossible for footman
A few miles from Franklin where the Motto
| way, Blackwater and Meherrin join, the corners
of four counties come very near together. They
| would join but for the impossible water which
commands thus far shalt thou come and no
| farther" These counties are Gates and Hert-
| ford in North Carolina. and Nottoway and South
anpton in Virginia. Virginia must excuse me
for putting North Carolina first in this enumcra-
| ton. but. really North Carolina is the most i'm
portant for it is the nearest out of debt and this
in North Carolina is now regarded the rank and
grade of superiority.
The Blackwater river is narrow but deep. 1t
is not wide enough to allow either of these boats
to turn around in the channel without great care
| But it is deep enough to float any cargo which
boats of their size likely ever to pile on.
And at many points where the river makes a
sudden bend the boat has to move around with
great care. the channel is narrow. Still, trips
| IRE made regularly, and few, if any, accidents
ever occur.
Thoro nx;sts lard Of squqttcr sovereignty in
his region. The swamps well supplied with
| cypress. or cedar vet. although the land is held
rs property, and registered in courts. the owners
cannot get over their premises. for the swamps:
so intruders take advantage of hiding places and
shoot into the swamps cut down the cypress,
make it into shingles and come out with a canoe
full for sale. 1t would be as unsafe to follow the
| rogue into the swamp as to follow a snake into
his hole.
Leaving the Blackwater and the Nottoway
Virginia rivers [ hail the Chowan. 1t is wide
and beautiful river. very deep and very large.
Here the Ella spreads herself, after release from
the narrow banks Of the upper streams. She
seems to realize it she goes faster and cares less
for banks.
Before the Chowan enters Albemare Sound.
it is some five miles wide. and is capable of bear
ing any vessel that comes along.
Many of the rivers of the country east Of the
Albemarle Sound supplied with water from
the Sound itself. They only long valleys Of
back-water, with some fresh supplies Of water
from the swamps at their head. The Chow is
an exception to this however. 1t receives a
mighty volume Of water from the NOttoway, the
Blackwater and the Meherrin. Still it is plain
to the naked eve that these rivers would not
measure five hundred y'rds in width. The
| Ehowan is dependent chiefly upon the Sound for
its width and depth. Drain the Albemarle and
| the Chowan would diminish to a small channel
| The streams of this eastern section are usullly
colored They are not formed by springs, as in
the up country. so much as by swamps. The
water of the swamps is impregnated with the
stains of the roots and leaves of trees. Many Of
these waters are a very dark brown, very rich
color when seen running over white sandy bed.
| The Blackwater river is so much darker than
some waters, that it has received the distin-
gushed title of Black. 1t is rather ultra on the
question of color, and takes extreme ground.
| The village of Winton, the county seat of
! Hertford, is the first town on your route down
| the Blackwater. 1t stands on the west side on
| buff should rather say it used to stand
there The Confederates fired from Winton
upon the Federal boats, during the war and the
latter nearly oblterated the place. Time may
bring these burnt lots to their old appearance,
may be- But the shock has been very fatal
so far
Next comes Gatesville landing. There is a
ferry across the Chowan at this point. The
landing is bare wharf, nothing more. Gates
vile is about 2 miles from the river. The con-
veyance in which went to the town one
horse cart, no springs. cushions, no speed,
over corduroyiroads out Of repair and. they say,
| in hot weather well supplied with snakes That
crawl out of the swamp the road runs through.
1t is a lonely and watery road. The town is
small and still. The country is sandy, with some
very rich farms here and there.
Next to Gatesville is Edenton. 1t is beau
tful little port, the houses in good taste the
water scene is grand-it faces the Albemarle
Sound 1t was the home of Mr. James G. John
upho haf tha was m pd