The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1868-06-14
THE PARIS FASHIONS.

1lO0O-COIQ q
pede-Fate Of a Non-Admirins School Girl
Poetry In Every Day Toiiets-Bustercupi
White with Black Lace-Fichu varie<
ties-OutdoOr Bonnets-Panniers, Priests
and the Paterfamilias-A Royal Bside
from Spain-Pearls, Lace and q TOrtoisa
Shell Coach-Omcial Robes for the Turf.
. PARIS, May 20, 1885,
One of the prettest drives near Paris is the lona
avenue, some way out in the Bois known az tho
Alice des Acacas 1t is more genteel than tho
lake, but this word seems to imply, when used by
ladies' that people Of superior kind in point OF dis
play resort thither, may safely prophesy that the
denatmonde will spoil all this select gentity
by showing OFF, a good deal more than
unimpeachable matrons usually do. Meanwhis
1t is perfect crush Of muslin, wave Of
soft foulard gorgeous simmer Of turnouts, and the
air Is all full of the perfumes OF the raining silver
and gold blossoms. Not only that, but there is q
goodly sprinkling of violet rice powder-fOOtmen
shake 1t on their wigs, ladies of their noses and 10
flies about like DUST il to cover in the face OF pure
nature all the ugly patches on humanity. Very few
English or American visitors know anything abOut
the alice in question yet. They not up to the
local oddities Of our sovereign lady, they have got
Off her track; but their daily wanderings and can.
terings and melancholy musings on the wrong side
of the cascade are but temporary AFFAIRS. Some
thread viii prove wonderful as Ariadne's and lead
them back to the true path again, where hope soon
to meet them; for 1t Is my ate or | should say my
dental element embellishd by lace and golden hair.
But why, 1t may be inquired, have the etate taken
to Ss sna9s ana 6es aa the green shores
near the floating gOnddas on the lakef b,
1t is Cora PEARLS ault. This most determined
female innovator-wht as I have before observed
wears her diamonds On her satin shoes-having got
tired Of driving ponies ahead Of the fastest phaetons
and of propelling minors to the roulette tables
fancied her fair proportions would look wen Il she
propelled herself andsat to advantage astride velO
Int al as ne
Among these young irregulars of the social world
stood foremost and loudest schoolgirl On her Ooras
Indignation was centred. She begged one Of her adj
MIXERS to lay hands on the girl and lovely Cora had
the offender walpped-yes, whipped The scandal
came Defole a magistrate, Cora had
fine to pay, and the genteel have ever
the them now desecrted resort Drive through It tney
must, however, for the Empress does so, and If she
is not afraid Of ntchng velOcpede others less high
The most pOetcal of toilets are worn, and I must
say that manymeet with my full appreciation The
striped materials, for MISUNDERSTANDING are
made of greenland white mauve and white blue and
white muslin or foulard, striped alternately The
green and white are the prettest The OverskfItS to-
these douncet petticoats are Of the same material
and shade with much narrower stripes. The pelerine
back where The folds are stopped, not by r0sette,
which is vev heavy, but an elegant satin bow On
the back of he waist behind comes sheaf Of ribbon
and sash ends to match the green stripe. The over
skirt is raised on each side and frilled round.
AnotherSery favorte stripe is the buttercup and
white, unter black lace overskrt looped as above,
with cofage like the underskirt, and black lace
fchu crossed behind over an elegantly looped bow,
like the bodice.
There an immense variety in the fchu styles,
have ends only, Others square frilled ends;
some aremantias or scaris in front and fchus be-
hind; bit when not made OF lace or pOult, with
satin crbsscuts and fringe they are always OF the
same material the Dress Bonnets are lovely too.
All garhnds. The new thing, as informed your
readers my last correspondence is fruit; but there
has, since my last letter. appeared another novelty
in the arrangement OF flowers on fanchons rose
wreath for instance is made Of full the top
for the diadem thence they gradually lessen In size
and come down quite to trail of BUDS among the
folds Of drapery under the chin. White rice straw
fanchons, with nothing but silver drab scarf,
trimmed with blonde OF the same shade, and gar
land Of tapcring mgnOnette (reSeda make eleganC
headdresses for driving.
Walking bOnnets are pouffs or fanchons, but the
@ ad are 700 Of wbssy snesrs verv hio mite M
Ceres are suitable with everything, as the field
flowers introduced among the corn-and barley match
all materials and shades.
But now word to the wise about panniers again.
They are Drawing every denunciation from fashion
am truly greved and feel like Canute, whO when he
told the waves Of the sea to roll back knew they
wouldn't. The Planners are invading every inch OF
that part Of female anatomy which makes up all the
difference between fine figure and defective one.
The clergy, as said are opposed to panniers, and
herein they are logical They will have to make VIC
tins of men by marrying them to brides on simple
supposition that they are without personal deformify
and yet without the slightest optical demonstrations
of the fact. What cOnceament there will be under
panners The customs are greatly agitated for where
Is the visible opening to the novel receptaclesY
Therefore do appeal to the wise in the name OF
important section OF society. Let their pannera
be combined as to avoid undue deformity even in
the minds Of the clergy and the customs not de-
prved Of the only pleasure they can ENJOY on earth
that Of comfortable inspection into the very depths
OF bundles
But to return to less important considerations
was not at the wedding Of the Queen Of Spain's
brother Of the very ex.Kss OF Naples. have re-
ceved letters describing the BRIDES robe which was
all lace and pearls, and the tortoise shell coach in
which she was conveyed at the head of brilliant
cortege to the cathedral The shell did not crack,
but 1t certainly would have done so If the Catholic,
Queen Isabella had sat down In it instead Of her
graceful daughter. have quite forgotten how many
pounds her Catholic Majesty weighs, but know her
she has requested to be favored with for her daugh
ter's fortune is 800 oOo thirtysix millions OF reals,
| and only wish she may get 1t.
rather like young Prince Girgenti, when his brO-
Their lost-well may as well say everythng-he obs
with Austria in the Ninth regiment OF lancers. He
had to put up with good deal OF discipline but pre-
ierred this to the plots OF the Farnese palace antk
promotion came easy. Should the direct heir to the
| throne of Spain-that very i'll dressed and sickly,
looking Prince of Astura-depart for better atmos
phere, Prince Girgenti will be king and II rs not
| likely things would "pick up'' little under hs
| control.
From the palaces OF Madrid to our other newly
married couple Prince and Princess Achille Murat,
the graduation Is not at all painful. This happy pair
will spend the first year OF mutual forbearance at St..
Petersburg thence they will proceed to Mingree,l
| which have already described and finally come
| down to small family in France. Prince Ache
has none but English attendants he Will hear of
| other language being spoken around him and he,
selects the hardest French ears he get. Heaven
| knows how willingly British subject obeys when
| told that he is not to understand French.
Opinions were divided about dress at our French
Derby, which took place at Chantilly. In the first
place, high life has done away with ''fnery' at the
races and we are entering on q new plan. We arc
to have official "racng' toilets that cannot be worn
on any other occasion. They to be made dust
shade, they are to he waterproof and wrnkleproof
and just as plainly and strictly as rding-hablt.
applaud They to be short, and In every way to
| show distinction between the full dress OF the
deai-D,0Rde and too common toilets OF the gener-
| atty of respectable people. This Is the Empress
idea. She has taken TO plain, useful attre but IT.
| comes very costly as special styles can be only
adopted for special circumstances, and there
! many specials. Riding, driving, shopping, sailing,
| racing, dancing, mineral water drinking, praying,
| visiting, all have now their mise en- scene. The
champttre and rural STYLES to be Vatican, Lam