The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-12-09
THE FASHIONS.


{ Esembly-Hat Trimm and
sRshes-FaEhiOnRbIs Philosophy and
Overstrsinsd Morality.
PARIS, Nov. 23.-The new gilt jet, and steel
ornaments worn on sashes have assumed en-
blemauc shapes since my last Ladies now
wear arrows, Tyres, large harps, and a era Wiling
dragon flies behind. All the crustacua ATE in
favor, not forgetting lobsters, which are
thought becoming in the ha.r,
novelty is the elegant white muslin drapery
worn on low bodices. | must describe them as
plated braces. They are worn in the style OF
the Italian braces of last year, only they are
kept to the waist by belt, aud the ends tlowin
front and behind like scarf ends. bow on
each shoulder with this constitutes sleeve.
The Empress Eugene wore, on the opening OF
the Legislative Assemol oily, white satin, bro
caded with gold laurel leaves, ichu OF the
same with carmelite (brown) velvet sash ends,
and rouleauX of the same on the satin skirt
She wore over this black lace shawl. Her
bonnet was made of the same aud trimmed
With a lovely agrette, admirably placed on one
side.
Princess Murat was in pearl grey aud
A!encon point. Black velvet underskiris,
with black satin tuulcs trimmed with deep lace
al round, we're the quietest tOilettes IN the gal
leries. Jewels in bonnets flashed on many
brow.
The favorite ornaments on bonnets are steel
and gilt-thus, gilt band with steel leaves, aud
gilt and steel ears on gilt rims.
Young ladies' hats are something between tur-
bans and caps. The pretliest diadem bonnets
have puffs of velvet in front, somewhat high
with plain rim on the forehead and an aigrette
OF sparkling steel, crystal or jewels.
Sashes made of the same material as costumes
are short and bordered with satin. Ribbon
sashes are longer A lovely leaf for trimming is
the wide ivy EDGED with lace; it is blue on grey,
or light brown on dark.
Basques OF satin are cut in one, with square,
low bodice.
The opening of the Legislative Assembly and
the Emperor's speech on that occasion, have
given occupation to hundreds of court pur-
Veyors and thousands of spirited political
leaders; leader without the private opinions
of the writer on the intended amendment in the
laws the country, on the dictionary Congress-,
on the liberty of the press, and the encroach-
ments of Prussia, would not be a leader any
more than fashion letter would be fashionable
if it were not faithful account of all the scan
dal of this wicked world and of its attire.
This CORES pondence shall therefore relate
both, beginning with what concerns the state of
society, IT appears to me, after close scrutiny
in the elevated circles, that war and peace are
at present on the best terms. All the powers
want peace, and something with it. The En-
peror has shown the example by wishing to be
friendly with every one, and to have bigger
army besides. Victor Emanuel has had enough
of the Pontldcal Zouaves, still he is ever harpng
for the Ponti6Cal States. The King OF Prussia
wants peace, but he must have the South of
Germany with it, and while on one hand Napo-
leon III continually announces the advent of a
Congress OF nations, on the other the representa-
tives OF the said European powers are not forth
coming England is waiting for Russia to send
on some announcement first, and Russia will
not come forward before England has shown the
example. Bavaria has enough 10 do with Wagner
for a prophet, without the Pope Spain has
nothing at all but feTvent enthusiasm. Austria
has had too much to do with the Italian question
already, and the Pope himself does not mean to
be dictated to by any Congress. So how such an
assembly can be called peaceful, or deliberate,
with any comfort is mystery, People who are
hard up for an operette should take the Congress
for subject; all the kings would draw as well
as the Grande Duchesse if brought in as
cleveIly as the Congress ever is in all the Court
speeches.
Monseeneur Dupanloup has also expressed
some clever things, but about the education of
women in Franch, which hasten to cOmmuni-
cate TO the fair sex. IL appears that French
ladies have until now been brought up IN the
bosom of the church, and that they are hence
forth 10 be turned over to the arms of the
university. NJ. Dupanloup thinks this very
improper, ahd all thinkers are taking the ques-
ton up as enthusiastically as If their sisters,
mothers, and daughters were being exposed to
insult. Some say that the bosom of the church
was not positively degenerate but that the arms
of the university are not to be trusted. and the
said arms carry the debate off IN a way which
must ruffle the suscephbilities of the church.
Something is going to be settled, for, it appears
ladies in France must either be Graded by one
or nursed on the other, and some perturbation
is caused by uncertainty In the morals OF the
nation.
Talking of m orals case has this week been
laid before justice by an indignant father, who
has sued a lady, an opposite nelghbor, for
watering her flowers at her balcony in yellow
neglige, of which the style was so flowing that
the aspect thereof was not very modest i'll the
eyes of his family. The lady was requested to
select some other garment for her morning avo-
cations, but she refused to do so. 1t is probable
She is an Austrian by birth, and partial to
yellow. Princess Mathilde wore yellow satin
robe and casaque, trimmed with fur, at the
opening of the Assembly, and this lady very
likely prefers yellow to the Metternich green at
the opening OF her windows. She was threat
ened with lawsuit, which suited her, doubtless,
and law proceedings led her before the President
of the Police Court, where the following ques.
tions and answers were exchanged;-
President to compainant-State the object OF
Complainant-It is not a suit at all, Monsieur
lie President; it is dressing gown.
President-What is Objectionable in this gar.
ment?
Complainant-In the first place, it is yellow,
an anti-national manifestation in favor of out
ward politics which the youth of France have
nothing to do with; and besides, 1T is of such a
cut that
President-Pray continue.
Complainant Instead of being high in 'front.'
especially for the purpose OF watering flowers,
ii Is very low in the bodice and high behind.
President TO detendant-What is the name
given to the style of your mornlng-robe
madame?
Defendant-An antique, Monsieur le Presi-
dent; Cesar's wife wore one. lLaughter.)
President to plainaut-What family have
you?
Complainant-An only son.
PIesident-HoW old is he?
mplainant-Twenty-op months. (Great
laughter in the court
President (eravely)-I do not think the
morality OF your infant is in imminent danger,
and the Court, therefore, declJes that
Defendant-rhe dressing own may be drop
IA nnh