The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-11-26
FIN 81 E1lTIO N
THE FASHIONS.

Costume of the Queen OF GroeCe-The
Emperor of Austria at Leave Taking.
PARIS, Nov. S.-Let us consider what good
battles have done the fashions. SolfeTino gave
ladies a new color and to men rifle cannon.
Sadowa gave the fair sex boots, aud to men
needle gun. Let us observe, en- pdSsdnt, that
women with high boots offer food for reflection.
Montana, in Italy, has given men Chassepots,
and until the Montana bonnet is in vogue, /
propose that our new costume should be called
the insolube-that and the French Intervention
go well together; and what shape has the ne W
costume? am asked. II just touches the
ground, and has cross-cuts all round; it is IN ade
of cloth, and tringed under the cross-cuts with
chenille. Dark blue and dark green are the
fayOrites. The mantle is loose, fringed round
and the sleeves are very full and flowing.
Another chenille article is tulle Garibadi,
with chenille balls OF all colors sprinkled
over. This is worn with demi-toilette high
over low black silk bodice and plain black silk
train skirt.
The polonaise In velvet is either very becom.
ing, il the wearer is slight aud still not skele-
ton, or stout and stlll not moderate Alboni;
it is nothing but q short, tight-itting coat
crossed over in front and buttoned on the left.
Sashes are worn with these, but of the same
material, and buuchy rather than long.
The new belt rings are improved with every
rising morn. The last bold Tyres aud
arrows, suspended from the waist behind
These ornaments hang somewhat low. hold
ing the sash ends.
AS gave long account of trimmings in my
last, will complete accessories in this CORES
pODoence. Ihe great question Is unders klrts
When they are made TO be worn en- suite, that
ie, to match the costume, the prettiest are white
Scotch merino or mohair ornaments with Bre-
ton work of all colors, as Algerlne galoons,
cashmere borders, etc. Those which are re-
quired for Tegiige are made of scarlet puffed
merino, six or seven rows of narrow puffs
or of velvet poplin trimmed with velvet. A
white petticoat is not seen unless with silk
train, and then it is ounced, goffered, frlled or
bordered with edging and work.
The richest colored petticoats worn under
short black silk tunics are made of blue, cerise,
and maize taffeta, with hOunce on the cross
round the bottom. A particular recommends
ton is not to add either velvet or silk bands
round the bottom of an underskrt should
economy prompt q LADY to make use of one of
these articles which she considers too good to
lose at the top and too bad to wear at the
bottom-these cases SO present themselves
let her plat long stripe OF merino ii the mate
rial Is woollen, or of tafeta If the material is
silk, and put that on instead of plain band of
anything
Since universal desolation has succeeded the
high state of exposition In which we have been
kept this year, the handsomest sets of Jewels
heard of are those which were worn by the
young Grand Duchess Olga Constantine Wna of
Russia, now Queen of Greece. Her robe was
made of silver cloth, tissue that is not
cloth, but as thick as this material and as
supple. 1t was worked all over with bouquets
OF silver thread aud white silk. Down the
front, on the bodice and belt, were large
diamond buttons, sewn on after Grecian pat
tern. Her necklace, bracelets, diadem, and
Ch' pnon circle were of diamonds also. In fact,
she was so dazzling that quite understand how
IL happens that the King her husband, much
prefers his new conquest to his old Kingdom.
The brides mother had skirt of the same silver
cloth material, but down each side stripes Of
scarlet velvet. The bodice was bordered with
ermine; her train was lined with the same. The
ornaments she wore were diadem, comb, and
necklace of emeralds, rubies, and diamonds.
The BRIDES nurse was present throughout all
the ceremony in the plain attire of the Russian
peasantry.
At the last imperial hunt the Empress Eugene
attended on horseback, escorted on each side by
one of the Austrian Archdukes and hard work
emperors and dukes have of it when they do go
hunting. They are compelled to kill at least
four hundred pbeasants with their own hand,
for the higher the position Of @ sovereign @ the the
more game he is expected TO beat down by the
dalies and weeklies of the capital.
The curie which took place after the hunt
during which 1900 pieces OF game were killed,
is ceremony which is performed by the for
esters, keepers, beaters, and peasants. 1t con-
sists in ripping up the stag and withdrawing Its
liver. THIS is given away to those who are pre-
sent after the distribution OF the rabbits, hares
and pheasants. The CoDte bad brought together
all the peasantry around. 1t took place in one
of the forest glades.
The Emperor OF Austria aud his brothers left
his hosts on the same evening after splendiC
banquet at the chateau.
Snuff-boxes aud rings were the testimonial
of satisfaction given as onerlngs oy FRANCS
Joseph during his stay IN Parls Inc oou oou
ring was sent to her day or two before thu
Emperor went away.
The ex-Queen of Naples is travelling under tn,
name of the Duchess OF Carvi.-N, I. Herald.
How Our LADIES ARE TO DRESS THIs WINTER
The edict of the fashion makers has beel
Issued: the rules of dress have all been an
nounced and 1t now remains for our ladies' U
make all necessary preparations for complyln
mand. First of ALL cold weather ha4 prougn
out new styles OF fur wrappings Tor Wlnte
wear. The variations in their make from thos
of one year ago are scarcely perceptible-s
gradual and slow has been the change-ye
there are some new and prevailing styles.
Ermine sets, for evening and opera wear, ar
in good use; but the most stylish and neates
for all occasions are the sable and mink wrap
pings, their value being de- ermlned In grea
part by the mum ber of dark stripes they contain
The grey squirrel sets, decidedly superior u
the CO mmon, coarse furs, such as the waite
mink, o more properly, muskrat, arestill Worr
but novelty lately introduced, ana which ma
become prevailing fasnon Sm0ng g she ole% 90" %
their cost is not great. For carriage wear,
sealskin jacket, OF medium length and loos
sseS99s shape, are much In vogue. A9iotne a
. alskln jacket-a specimen OF the style sen
70 the Paris ExposiliOn-is cut deeper at ia
% ek, and embroidered around the edge VIII
Olack Dugles and gold thread
feLslana, In sets of grey, is being favored b
oul taules. Jackets made of the same az
warm and desirable. Black and grey AstracaI
useu ior cloaks, mufts and collars, are we
liked, and costs less than Persiana The Astrs
nan Is the skin OF the Russian lamb. found 1
the interior OF the empire. The first qualit
this article are worn In mourning ~
And then, not To forget the feet in this col
weather, we nave nuns Tor Them, the prettie,
raccoOn.skin. The only novelty in carriaC
robes is a lion-sl1in with the skull remain I'M
SO .hat the hea1 seems ns5Hre1 % and dehan
also kent perfect. The skin OF the Polar bea