Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1867-09-06
lFrom Leslie's Gazette Of Fashionl
What Should be Worn, and VVhai
Should Not. -


FROM THE TABLETS OF pAR1srAN LADY OF
SOCIETY.
The grand art of dressing well consists
In understanding and interpreting the
mighty word Fashion" in its most pleas.
ing sense; surely not in exaggerating ex
isting exaggerationS. We will therefort
say but little of those glaring eccentricitie.
which are, at the best, but outrages upor
good taste, combining ourselves more espe-
cially to those fresh and exquisite toilets
which happily we are enabled to present tC
our readers. with all their charms of ele-
gance, novelty. and-we had almost sale
simplicity. but in the face of such gorgeous
combinations of material, and gracefully
coquettish fashioning, the word would bt
sadlyeout of place.
Let us first notice walking or visiting
dress, original without being eccentric. Ii
is of blue gray poult-de-soie "a color very
fashionable at present), and cut Princess
shape. The long train skirt is encircled
with garland of leaves of the same ma
terial, veined with white silk, which also
forms an apron front. Close-fitting casaque
with broad sash knotted at the back and
trimmed with smaller garland similar to
those upon the large sleeves q la juiue. e,
Another is of black silk, embroidered in
all possible shades of Bismarck novel
color, the different tints of which are sup
posed to portray the different conditions,
u
gu1shed parsonage, for we have Bismarck
good-natared, Bismarck sick, Bismarck
nervous, Bismarck angry, etc., and in shape
this toilet loses none of the originality
implied by these designations. The skirt,
followed out at the sides. falls in heavy
folds. The short, tight fitting casaque,
with its revers, or simulated lapels of white
silk, is fastened at the throat onIy, and the
close sleeves have deep cuffs, the whole
covered with embroidery. Altogether a
dress as becoming as characteristic.
A third is OF gray Sultane, with long
and pointed train, around the bottom OF
which is a bias band of green satin; above
this, three rows of black beaded guipure
are placed in waved lines. The short upper
skirt and loose paletOt are trimmed in the
same manner.
A much admired costumeis one composed
of petticoat of white silk, with large
squares formed by very narrow blue stripes;
border pointed or scalloped and bound
with blue. The two founces of the blue
silk over-dress are laid on quite flat. The
corSage of the same is cut low and square,
with puffed muslin under-body, at all the
seams of which are pipings of blue silk
Small silk paletot, with long ribbons loose
ly knotted at the back.
Really, words are wanting wherewith to
portray the wonders in the way of brocaded
silks. They are simply magnificent.
One, a dinner dress, is rich black, orna-
mented with branches of the most delicate
ferns, brocaded in gold, and boquets of col
ored flowers.
Nothing can be more exquisite than the
gayly- plumaged birds, with butterflies, or
tiny howerets, all in natural colors. A
shower of peacOcks' feathers is also favor
ite pattern. Garlands OF field-flowers,
mixed with wheat-ears; bouquets of roses
and heliotropes, OF convolvuli and sweet
peas, rival water colored paintings in their
hrIl RI fC rlalin oLn 4 i
outlines.
The silk gauZe dresses are no less beauti-
full. Some are white, with garIands of
bright colored flowers; others are striped
or chine. White tulle dresses are exquis-
itely embroidered with tinted silks, or,
again, with straw. And this straw en-
brOidery is charming.
Here is ball costume of white tarletane
with deep puff around the bottom OF the
lower-skirt. The upper is ornamented
with double grecques of straw, and this is
repeated upon the low corsage. 1t is SIM
pie, but effective.
Another is of white Chambery gauze,
Princess form, and entirely covered with
embroidered bouquets or field flowers. In
these the wheat ears worked in straw, are
faultless. A bertha. formed of large bias
of the same, with plated border of cher
ry-colored ribbon. is worn with this.
Muslin dresses, with plain train silks are
very much admired. We have noticed
raised flowers made of a colored silk gur-
pure is quite novelty, and is used for
trimming dresses, but more especially for
white tulle bonnets.
Artificial flowers are also in demand as
trimmings. Feathers dispute for prece-
dence. and notJwithout reason, for they are
very beautiful: Among the many wonders
of the Paris Exhibition are skirts made
entirely of white feathers; others of differ
ent colors compose the flowers which or
nament them. The tips OF peacocks' feath-
ers serve to border jackets aud dresses.
In passementerie there are patterns of
the rarest gimp work.
The small jackets, without sleeves, of the
Bolero shape, are beautifully worked with
flower patterns. Besides the Breton Jack
ets-also embroidered in colored silks and
Ornamented with silver medalS-the only
style in favor just now, is this short, tight
fitting BOleru, rounded Oft in front and.
without sleeves. To wear with these are
silk skirts, embroidered with garlands,
which cross the bottom and reach up each
side of the gored widths.
The sash-ribbons are magnificent. Some
white, with rich flowers which seem as if
painted; others, in the Jardiniere style.
that is, striped with all cOlors over a white
ground: Black sashes, worked in colors,
are worn with white or light dresses.
laines of black silk. They are dist,ngue, and
effectively complete well arranged toilet.
The deep lace which forms the better part
of the garment certainly enhances its
beauty.
Some very rich. burnous, or sortie du bal,
are made of black Indian lace ornamented
with gold braid. Others are of white CASH
mere, worked with patterns in applique of
colored cloth, edged with gold braid. 9th
ers, again, of white gros-grain silk, with
arabesque patterns in gold and silver. A
long burnous is made of g1apure de ldine, a.
beautiful material, covered with flowers
and foliage in all colors.
Feather rtrimming is not confined to dress
es alone; it serves as fringe for rich silk
parasols Others, more eccentric, are bor-
dered with garlandS of artificial foliage,
from which droop long grasses, or lilies OF
the valley.
Coiffures are mostly formed of garlands,
arranged as corOnets, with long trailing
sprays. Water-lilies, with their dropping
foliage, or tiny colored berries, with varie-
gated leaves, are used.
With regard to bonnets, we can simply
repeat that they are still very small and
that the Mantilla Fanchon is yet the
favorite.
One is of golden brown Grape, with a
wreath of metallic foliage of the same rich
tint, and lapels of Grape instead of strings.
Another is composed of fine rice straw,
with puffings of white tulle over rose silk.
At the side is a flexible bouquet, and long
foliage, with large flower of rose crane.
At the back vail of embroidered blonde,
fringed with white bugles.
A toque of Bismarck Grape is bordered
with wide golden band; in the front is
placed a small tuft of feathers of the same
shade as the crape:a broad passementerie,
studded with gold beads, encircles the touue
and passes under the chignon,
A bell-shaped white straw hat, dotted all
over with small blue beads, bound with
black moire ribbon, and ornamented with