New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1867-12-05

ing down its dim perspective one oot"os L St,or,
legs oouis a. e faces to which these sea-egs belong
draw near, doerns sailors d Nrn as diyerse in
trness as olive aud trainoil; sharp faces from
NontncEet and from the PirFus, likewise mghlly amer
NJ. IT, Cir sbarnncss; blonde Germans and blonde En-
seafarng line with sea aIso more Vi 1855 W
strong waters like the rest:
7. rus have been in the little strees-impassabe for
borsesthat the people sat and talked, as iene tabled,
in their doOrways, and touched Knees with the people
tng and talking on the thresholds Of the opposite side
But we gosspers there on our sunday IN Genoa
and the domestic race OF Heines day no longer
lives in Genoa for everybody we saw on the streets was
avy dressed in the idea Of the last fashions and was 10
he met chiefly i'm the public promenades The fashions
were French but here still fingers the lovely phantom OF
the old national costume Of Genoa, and snoWwhte walls
dnttered from many dark head and caressed many an
olive check II is the kndest and chartabest OF attire
ments this white vail and while decking beauty 10 the
most perlous effect beffends and modides age and ugl
The miseries of sea-sickness usually afford fruit
full theme for verdant Travellers who lnger the
memory of their suflerngs with q certain fond de-
light, heightened by the reaction of jolly, TObustiOus
health {" custom more honored in the breach than
in the observance -" hut Mr. Howells contrives to
tract grim amusement from a night of wrotched-
ness which prompts us TO excuse tho repetition Of
the story:
The first night out from Genoa TO Leghorn, was bad
latter port was by far the worst Of the three spent in
our voyage to Naples How enyied the happy people
the bones OF the Venetan Psans, and Goese who met
and slew each other in the longtogotten seaghs ana
sank deeply through the waves 10 be stirred by the
restless tumult Every has heard toll OF how cross
and treacherous the Mediterranean IS IN Winter ana
the Atlantic should give the Mediterranean trial before
processing to have suffered everything OF when human
nature capable. Our steamer vas clean enough ana
stanch enough but she was not large-nO bigger
thought than gOndOa that night as the waves tossed
her TO aud fro TIL unwinged things took Night all through
her cabins and her decks. Ny berth was placed
tTansyerseiy instead Of lengthwiso with the boaan in
the blood of the sufferer from BRAN TO boots WIN cA
aggeratcd violence al each roll OF the boat ana bged
the steward TO let me sleep upon OF the lockers in the
cabin found many OF my agonizcd species already aiG
there and the misery Of the three French commercial
travellers great that IN the excess OF my own doO
1t actually afforded me kind OF happiness ana louhI
myself smiling at times 10 see the giant WIN tic 800
choked OK, rise up and family below Indeed, mere
something edritch and unearhly IN me Nnole pVsl
ness, and think KIND OF delrlum must ha'S Itsu'tu
from the sea-sickness Otherwise, shan not know now
TO account for having attributed KIND OF eonsSonshess
and individuality To me guus DoOh OIL !ounS & t
who had aboard at Leghon lie turned out AFTER
ward be the sweetest soul In the world aud am sorry
now that regarded with amusement hs IaluIS 20 sAt
of his sickness. He was reading ms guide DOCK Win great
diligence and unconcern, when suddenly marked nun
lay IT softly, softly down, with that we %
which men use at such times, and vanish WIN great ulB
this guide book began lis nghtlOng riots setng out upon
tour Of the cabin with the first urch OF the boat that
at once wildly 10 the cabin door and knock TO get out
and failing In this return more deliberately 10 the stern
Of the boat inteIrogatng the tables and chairs, |hea
had got their sea on, and asking them how they found
themselves. Arrived again at the point oil Stafung u
seemed to pause n moment ana then saw IL scttihg
/ forth on a voyage ~ pleasure IN tho 10" company
! OF French hat, winch, being Itself French book
! | suppose IL liked In these travels thcy Dolh
4 ran under the feet Of of tue stewards
aud were replaced by an immense oy dc lorfc n inc
company with oyeIcoat; but IL seemed me ,Gal Wa
too miserable 70 90 far stretched lt7c az IL 'hs
and FORTH know not how many times. At last ~ the
actions Of the book were becoming uncomfortable ana lhe
general sea-sickness waxing INTO frenzy, hea'y
roll, that made the whole ship shrek ana rcbe 'nIt
MS ali from our lockers and gathering self mp, bruised
i IA fiber down AGAIN ana Dtt.tlht
sensible OF blissul, bilsstul l; the nacuihefy han
stopped and with the mute hope that We were al gons 70
the bottom, ! fell TRANQUILITY asleep
Mr. Howells was impenetrable to the rapturcs
which usually convulse the sentimental tourist on
his first visit 10 Rome. The ruins IN the Forum
awakened no enthusiasm, and proved onya msera-
bic collection of fragments and rubbish. In the
midst Of hollows below the level OF the dirty COW
field, which was defed by malicious looking bufa-
loes stood arches, and pillars, and incoherent col
umns mixed in pTOnscuOus confusion with hlap-
dated walls, mere photographic consonants, dumbiy
representing the past out of which all vocal glory
had departed" Even the Pantheon produced no i'm
preston at first although it gained little on further
acquaintance. From first TO last modern Rome was
only hideous, its architecture hopelcssy ugly, and
burying the gores Of the ancient city in it's lapal
depths On one occasion, however orr Traveller I'M
bibed a milky drop of consolation from the courte-
sizes of high ccclesastic though the most imposing
ceremonies Of the church failed 70 touch his eyes
with their Elusive glamour.
Poor little Numero Cirque Via del Gambero has seldom
repced when on the day Of the immaculate Conception
the Armenian Archbishop rolled up TO tho door 10 Itd
coach The master OF the house had always seemed TO
like us appeared with profound respect suusing
as it bic whole beng and ANNOUNCED "hlgnore II
his carriage and drew himself up line, "a much like
There Was private caT1a.c ior tho ladies nem that Of
Monsgnore ior he had already s tat me sex
pearcd However he renewed ls expressions Of de-Oll
ton at being deprived OF their company, and assured
and mods ntormxed with shrug- Of recurrence to lbs
poignant regret. But In fine u was forbidden!
S NE dress ~ was cier II fist Of the W"starn
archbishOps: and The long white beard OF Mol5iguUrc
made MIN look much moro like scnpturl nOnsiguore
I than these. He lacked, perhaps The I'm spiritual
grace OF his brother the Archbishop of Venice whose
letter Of Introduction he owed bis acquaintance and un
ti1ng cyiities but II cannot De- plump and spirit
ua he be- plump aud pleasant a. MOnagnOIe WAS 70
the last degree lie enFeucd our ride with discourse
about the Armenians 40 Venice, equally beloved Of ne,
and arry at the sisue Chapel he marsaied the ladies
befOr, HIM, and them carly entrance through tho
the door. Then he laid hold upon The Captain of the
SWISS Guard, who was swift 70 provide them win the
best places ana Az nowac Gh ue seem one ~ ihc 1hu
entai aud insignificant pries that About Describes Tie
Archbshops at Rome to BE- According io lhs iNt] au-
thor SWISS guard was aAHT pd'h INC crown OH some
with The butt OF MS haibcrd. sud smoe Crd
nal on the breast lie instantly cropped np0u ms Knees
/ with -" Pardon, EmineDZa. Thought IL was MOnsls
nOrer Even the chief ~ these handsome fellows bad
The gentlemen present separated from the ladlc-
and ia very space outside Of tine chapel men 81
every nation were penned up together Al talked
priests loudly the But the fdest among
them were certain Germans who not only talked bot
stood upon seat 20 see better and were ordered down
by one Of the swiss with fierce GiD SeHOre, ga"
Otherwise the guard kept good order ia the chapel and
no doubt useful and genuine rs anything about
the poor old Pope. What gorgeous fellows they were.
and as soldiers, how absurd! The weapons they bore
obsolete as the accommodation IL was anus
ing pass Of these paysodcrs guard az the door
the Vatican straight beautiful, superb, with bis
halberd his shoudei-and then como 10 a real war
rior outside, little, ugly, legged French sentinel,