Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1867-09-20
From Frank Leslies Magazine.l
What Should be Worn, and What
Should Not.
FROM THE TABLETS OF PARsIAN LADY OF
SOCIETY.

The subject is altogether too serious for
veracious chronicler to permit lmaglna-
ton to supply the slightest detail, and with
this conviction we are forced to admit that
the most remarkable changes of la toilette
are those being made in paletots and bon
nets; changes so great that, by the end OF
the season, the resemblance OF either to its
original exponent will be but slight.
Take, for example, the bonnets. We be-
gan with u Fanchon, or Du Barry as favo-
rites. Az that time there was sufficient in
size and material upon which to base a
right to distinctive appellations. At pres
ent the FanchOn is scarcely more than a
puff the Du Barry-we hesitate to say il
An indefinable something" coquttti,hly
reposing upon the lofty chignOn, and this
in its present modification, is as coquet-
tishly styled Little Duchess"
One of these is of plated blue silk, bor-
dered with aeruche of the same, and orna-
mented with a garland of autumn leaves; a
leaf fastens the broad tulle strings.
Another, which is greatly admired, is OF
straw colored Grape, with bronZed grains
upon red branch ornamenting the bor-
der; these are prolonged upon and at
tached to the wide ribbon strings.
Again, Fanchon of fine straw has in
front tuft of natural grains confined by
band of straw. Straw-coloreG ribbon
strings.
A bonnet of Bismarck silk, the border OF
which forms toque, is trimmed with a
plait of silk of another shade. AT one side
is placed cluster OF red poppies with
black centres. There are no strings; the
plait of silk that passes beneath the CHG
non is accompanied by narrow ribbons
which serve to attach the bonnet.
A round hat of Italian straw is encircled
by handsome scarf of yellow silk, deeply
fringed at the ends, and fastened at the
side by a yellow rose with bronZed leaves.
Qrfs fad yUirh
either fastened in front or loosely knotted
at the back, are very graceful.
The white lace and tulle bonnets, for
theatre or concert, are exquisite. They
are bordered with branches of coral and
draped with rich blonde lace, which is at
tached in front by a delicate coral spray.
liz the Interior is placed water-lily with
trailing frosted foliage.
For travelling bonnets, the brown foliages
and bronzed fruits are particularly adapted.
We have admired one in bronzed straw,
with small flowerets and long grasses in
natural colOTs.
Long gauze walls, either white or col
ored, are worn with round hats these are
loosely rolled around the crown, and fall
at the back.
Riding-hats-for. let US remember, we
are entering upon the season when these
are most in demand-riding-hats are of
beaver. Gray is the fashionable color, with
a small vail of the same shade. OF the
habits We will speak presently.
The transformation of paletots is no less
remarkable. Now they are all loose. The
mantilla-paletot is the latest style. The
shape, at the back, in no way differs from
those with which we are familiar, but in
front it is like loose mantle, falling in
long lappets on either side, yet still reach
ing up to the neck. For this the material
should be silk. Others are of gray or
chine cloth, but OF different patterns.
AS it would require volumes to enter
into the details OF the charming and &C.
centric toilets now seen at Paris, let us
content ourselves with observing a
few Notwithstanding, en- PEASANT
that the long trains are reserved for full
and evening dresses, whilst the short, grad
uating, and lifted skirts are adapted for
the promenade and travelling.
Rich plain silks are trimmed with bias
bands OF the same, or of satin; for these
different shades are employed. Beads are
also used.
A dress OF black poult-de-soie has two
skirts. The lower is very full and long
train; the upper is but round tunic, the
border of which, like that of the train, is
ornamented with bias band of the same
framed in narrow pipings of yellow silk.
The broad waistbelr, with long floating
ends, is similarly trimmed. A narrow silk
band around the armholes of the plain
nlSn cOTSdRe completes a GOlleG whose SIM
pie elegance and exquisite taste distinguish
it above many others.
Another is of light gold-colored silk
Upon the train-skirt are five narrow bias
bands of darker shades of the same; these
frame the small satin tabs which border
the skirt. The mantilla paletot has trim
ming to match.
Upon the train of rich black silk is a
deep straw embroidery. Two very long
tabs are attached at the sides, beneath the
waistbelt. These are loosely knotted at the
back. Plain high corsage. Short paletot,
trimmed to correspond.
Straw laces and ornaments hold impor-
tant places now in the mysteries of the
toilet.
A very elegant dress of silver-gray silk
is trimmed with rouleaux of darker
shade, placed transversely upon the long
skirt. These are framed in two bias bands
of the same, and are not continued across
the tabler-frOnt of rich black guipure,
fastened down by silk rosettes. The but
tons of the high corsage are covered with
lace. RouleauX of silk form the caps and
cuffs of the straight sleeves. Large ro-
settles upon the shoulders.
Here is charming model tor short
costume: Blue silk petticoat with two
small plated fiounces; tunic of white al
paca, bordered with blue silk. Bias bands
of silk. Bias bands of silk, falling from
the waistbelt, loop up this skirt in front
and at the sides; they are finished by large
rosettes. The paletot- t-mantelet, ofalpaca, is
very short at the back, and ornamented
with two large shaped ends attached be-
meath silk rosette. A similar rosette is
placed upon each side of the front; upon
the lower part of each fitting sleeve
is another yet smaller. Truly the variety
is infinite!
A costume of takou-a new material Of
silk and wool, marbled black and white
is entirely trimmed with braids of black
ribbon interviewer strings of large pear
beads. There are two skirts and short
paletot with white buttons. A Scotch
burnous is worn with this toilet.
For short dresses, the petticoat or lowel
skirt may or may not be of the same color
One exception however. With blacl
dresses it should invariably be of coloreC
silk and perfectly plain.
Double skirts OF different shades-tht
upper lifted by band in the style Moven
age-are very fashionable.
Here is ball dress Of light green silk
with full train bordered by wide silk
ruche. The small tunic, of white lace, il
lifted at each side by bouquet of violets
Low corsage draped with lace; violets a
the shoulders and in front.
Another evening dress is of white sill
with two long skirts. The upper is liftec
at each side by two bands of green satir
worked with pearls; the border is orna
mented with broad band of embroidered
satin. A yet broader band is upon the
lower skirt. Green silk cords, fastened
down by large buttons, unite the widely
opened front of the looped skirt. This i
continued upon the low corsage. Shor
puffed tulle sleeves. Satin waistbelt. SAITH
rosette, with deep barbe of blonde lac
worked with pearls in the hair.
A very pretty toilet for young lady i
of white silk strewn with rosebuds; tn
long skirt bordered by a white and ros
ruching. Attached to the low corsage is
shorter skirt, each breadth of which i
partly open, turned back, and fastened