The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-08-12
THE FASHIONS.

inconvenience FashiOnRbIe Toilets
AZ ths Grand international ConcOurao
ofMiIitary MusiO-Dressos, TrimnAdngs,
uats. PnIetOts, and CrinOlines - A
eoldsn Brown straw Bonnet - An
TnkIinR Of the United Styles
PANS. July 26.-As fast as Hercules cut off
the heads of the hydra number of Others
mrang up and in like manner have other attrac-
tons followed the departure of the red fez,
Vhich was the most conspicuous feature of the
True Belieyer Abdol AziE. Since the Tar Eve
have been requested through the papers not to
spell him Cgarl has returned to hts ice-bound
Te01ons we have been threatened with cessa-
mon OF gayeres; but far from that, the pro-
gramme has been very full and we have another
sSaIa at the Hotel de Vile towards the close OF
This month. Myriads of attractions are drawing
every Wher, and wheresoever the Par1sian turns
he meet that terrible in1iction-the actor
sothefnF portrait, stuck up at every corner on
syerv Fall, cart, and lamp post; Mr. Sotnefn
nooears every night as Lord Dundreary" IN
tke cb2racter of heavy swell. When people
cboose to pay for the theatre they expect TO see
heavy swels, and enjoy them more or less on
ne stage but 10 be compelled to see Lord
pdndrearyn all through daily life, winking
Snder pane of glass with one eye while he
staTes at one with the other, Is rather sensa-
tional in hot weather.
Another exciting feeling of the kind is caused
by the newly arrived company of Japanese Jug
gIers. They, too, are painted lite-sze every
where, moling down, climbing up creeping
over, dartmg forward, frightening horses aud
old women to dealh, just as ii they we're live
Chinese.
The only way to avoid them is to hire chair
at the central garden of the Exposition, and
leisurely observe the divers natlonalities as they
pass in threes and fves before one. A certain
amount OF emotion must even there be endured,
but of different nature Some is very acute,
however; that, for instance, which is caused by
English tourists who come over to Paris in
sm moking coats and wideawakes, lust as If the
Exposition were matter OF "larking picric;r
then those Russian walters, dressed exactly like
OH W q eli of
lemon in ones tea,
The next painful sensation is caused by bath
chair rolling over ones foot, for those whose
mission it is to draw pretty ladies about who
never walk, like to have free space to them
selves and mangle the extremities of their fellow
creatures whose gaze is averted. Another OBJ
noxious conveyance is the velocipede, or two
large spider wheels, steered in and out and
everywhere by the rider, who runs any one
down without the shortest notice. Then there
are few path" engines loose, steam engines,
which are supposed to grind down the sand,
but pursue quiet calm observers, spreading
fright aud coal dust on their passage. All this
with the noise, hustle, machinery and music, is
but poor relief from The Japanese tumbers and
Others.
The American Restaurant is the safest after
all One ever experiences a certain amount of
security before American cheer served in the
American style. There Is, besides, a lovely
drawingroom for ladies at the establishment,
where crushed toilets are renovated, chignons
arranged, curls Te-recTeped, and the skin re-
treshed by most welcome soap and water. l
beg to say the soap and water is not in the
drawing-room, but in a side dressing-room. One
of the 1nest pianos is In the salon. A reading
and smoking room complete the arrangements.
There is a great deal more to be said about the
Exposition. But am on forbidden ground; the
fashions are nv province; and though the EN-.
press Eugenie is absent, fashion recalls me to
my duty.
The greatest display that has been seen this
week was at the International concourse of
military music, which took place last Sunday at
the Palace de rlndustrie. Every available
access and avenue was crowded to oVerhow1ng
on this occasion. All the different regiments
came to Paris at considerable expense under
the command of general officers; the chevaliers
OF the Russian guard, in especial, having ex-
pended in their voy age the sum of l5 900 francs.
The Jury, under the presidency of General
Mellinet, wefe stationed in the front row OF the
spectators. Their magnificent uniforms were
greatly admired. 1t Is unnecessary to speak OF
the exquisite character of performance of this
kind, and the Jury found 1T 80 difficult to decide
who deserved the palm of victory, that they pre-
ferred rather to increase the number OF prizes
which were gwen, so that all came in for their
While the regiment of the Duke of Wurtem-
berg was delghting every ear, noticed the
following toilets:-A dress of pea green silk.
with long skirt and sweeping train ornamented
with rolls of the same material which come
down on either side, and are rounded on towards
the back, where they simulate sort OF bow
with loops and ends. The same trimming is
on the neck, and on the waistband.
The short paletot was made to correspond.l
A pretty white costume was composed or an
underskirt trimmed with vandykes of black
braid, and of an upper one looped up at each
seam. The bodice was made OF white muslin
striped with narrow black velvet short loose
paletot corresponded with the skirt.
The bonnets were generally fanchon shape, 9
becoming bonnet that suits every one and goes
with everything; is made of rice straw trimmed
with black ribbon, bouquet of red poppes or
one side, and the same fastening black tulle dra
perry instead of strings.
GOlden-bTown straw bonnets trimmed witt
Grape will reign supreme all through autumn
A pretty ornament on these is a golden walnu
in leaves.
1 am delighted to say that the name of ''Bis
mark" given to our new buff ia detbroned fo
something almost as bazzy but less obnoxious
we are to call it ''cockchaier's Wing.n
Crinolines are much reduced in size, but still
keep their no, they keep much dboue the
ground. Demi-toilette - indoor and watkins
dresses-are made with the skirt scarcely touch
ing the gro und.
The newest pattern for paletots is the mantills
paletot. In front 1t is loose mantle, falling in
long lappets on either side but the back is thai
Of straight paletot.
A short skirt is often simulated by trimmings
on the skirt, but the great idea is rOuiedu on
everything. This, and the pretty Antoinette
6chu, will become mania. These fchus are
worn instead OF mantles. When not of black
lace they are made of The light material EN-
ployed for the dress.
dOrgandic dresses are joined down the seamt
by insertion, with colored ribbon underneath.
After all this communication ladies can re
main assured that, although they will do wei
to follow the Paris fashions, any fashion i,
fashionable now. Whenever a very novel styl,
is first adopted people turn round and stare
icV Of N Poi ri . o,fkg