New-York tribune., 1867-03-22
cent-looking primeval peplum betrayed Ewes fam

cent-looking primeval peplum betrayed Ewes fam
ily are very much worm They are very costly, aio
dear TO the hearts of dTessmakers, and have certain
spccd appearance which Is essentially ugly al nc
undeT-skrt of black, any desired shade 9l SIN vi
popln or other rich material IS gored very olf lS
plain. A high-neckcd. plain waist, with coat-sIeo ~
of the same fabric complete the foundation oI ulS
the dress. Over this a shorter skMt kMt;bed
similar contrasting hue, also gored ana diSnr rut
with no end of trimming, a lOw-necked 1ouy 80 ou'
in the Greek FORM in some other 1anclui lid
and the very wide, open, and sweeping sIcc'eo, tha
yariOusy the Papal, the Jewess, tne Ansoi5 hns &
Tnrkish and the Court sleeve Costly as these rOpes
are they often give facitiOus effect oi pe2 p ~
their false angles, and sudden Tepeaue1 make
the masses of color, which should DC uo io are
them really inartistic. Very many uicSsoo - I
trimmed up every seam with cOntl1stlS SUN go Tttle
They look like panels set IN mouOl, anu u tbe offanse
tasteful As uSual excessive trimming IS thc oI0H9o
of ali our new modes. 1t seems to De paIt Vi ti
penalty of Eve that that capanlllty pl ft I'm II;
dressing which she bequeathed TO uss shoulu lusU -,
us 1nnsed Inv reason of the wiles of the adversary
who beguiles us with beads and wanpuhi al. eIsS, @
and trinkets, and glittering generatles III tnc WY
of iets Trimming no longer ornaments tne uleSs'
bnf the dress is a scaffolding for trimmings UeOil
cry is exhausted to furnish figures for frlges anu
omus 10 describe Architecture contributes studies
in cOrnices, columns, and capitals. NheVeh anu
BabyOn are repeated in hieToglyphs.
Yet over and over, line upon line, precept upon
preeept here little, and there ttle-slve we ue-
cared as having authority and not as the sc99s &
that trimming was an accessory, not an OBJECT .lio
means, not the end. Ganlture may ucllne cuEuS uEu
and indicate outlines may produce e11ects ny sHh
ful cording of cOlOrs but it never be used laV
;shlv without defeating its own aim and becoming
at once pretense and folly. The very great On
pense of the fashionable trimmings Is another Ngu
ment against their prOfuse adoption Ihey are more
frail more quickly flawed than Venice glass mn1
however rich one may be, it is vulgar use oi money
TO put it into spangles and tinsel.
STREET DRESSES.
These are now so established costume that y tiiey
deserve separate mention. Nobody could nave
prophesed that the Scotch BalmoIal Woulu nnu @
apotheoSis in the charming street dress OF LOuaA
M Slviule skiIS ond sacque Will be worn thtougn
the Sprlng and summer the forms being varied 10
please individual taste black silk is the useful
| material for constant wear, any nat
| is admissible with ii. But pretty alpacas,
| summer poplins, and new cotton material called
velveteen very beautiful the surface, but reveal
ing latent capacities of seediness, Will be worn.
Cambria dresses for country wear. stamped with a
pattern OH each skirt and with sacque to MATCH have
already appeared They wash well, and are cool ana
| pretty.
The fashion of short dresses, over which only a
Sacque or talma should be wOrn has banished shawS
| from general wear, though cashmere and lace VIII
never submit to such an edct and VIII display them
selves as aforetme the envy of one-half the world
| and the admiration of the other.
BOOTS. 80
II is an odd fact that the short dresses with the
tiny hoops really make much less display OF the feet
than the fitting hoop, with festOOned yastnesS OF
one feels it a privilege to be allowed TO wear them,
and accepts large feet submissivey the ndlSpen-
sable condition of more boot They laced or but
toned above the ankle, and range In price from -
TO $l4.
The season is yet so early and ii is so impossible to
make any radical changes in dress while this Lenten
gloom of March OveTshadOws us, that the dearest
secrets of fashion are not yet told These are but
her general DEGREES. What special and brilliant
fancies she NAV have, what recognition she has
planned of smiling April shall all be told i'll due time
1t only the first fruits of on immature season that
can be gathered on Opening Day.