Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1867-02-05
NEW YORK AND PARf@ FASHIONS
FOR FEBHOAEK.

New YORK. January, 1s67.-In the
fashions for this month there is not much
that is novel. The winter STYLES are not
only established, but they begin to grow
rusty, and ladies, young and old, who
have exhausted their quarterly allow
anee, and see no way for procuring new
bead dresses and fresh white kid gloves,
look forward with resignation, at least,
to the advent of Lent, which furnishes
very proper excuse for abstaining from
grand parties and gayeties Of all sorts.
SHORT CLoAKs AND BRIMLEss BoNNErs.
It seems to be ordained that women
shall always be victims. They are the
sufferers by a condition Of barbarism.
aud who win say that they are not the
"martyrs to civilization >" Surely no
one who sees delicate forms wrapped in
cashmere shawls shivering over hot-air
registers, and those same sensitive creP-
2. lures prOmenading in the bitter cold q
hour afterwards with a small circular bit
of velvet for protection on the tOp OF
their heads, and short sacques, reach
ing scarcely below the waist, doing
duty as clOaks. If punishment had been
needed for bllndly following the lead of q
eapricious nation, whose customs and
climate are entirely different from our
own, il would seem to oGmesin the shape
OF the severity of the weather which
has distinguished the season, and com
pelled all who We're foolish enough 10 be
fashionable to fall back upon their old
cloaks, or anything they possessed in the
way of wraps, to shield them from the
inciemeDcy of the keen frosty air and
sudden storms. There are days when
short sacques and fancy peplums can De
worn with lmpunity, and constitute Just
4, 2 s.
arranged with cOquettish. care for shop
( ping expeditions or a stroll down Broad
way, ending with a lunch at some noted
restaurant. But it is absurd for ladies
who can only afford one winter outdoor
garment, or who live in ice-bOund re-
: giOns in the country, to adopt such a
fashion /; and they ought, under such
circumstances, to assert their independ-
/ ence, and declare that they will not.
Still, the clOak-dealer, who assures YOU
that long cloaks are not worn at all !;
still, the dressmakeT triumphantly shows
you pretty fancy jacket as the "latest
I style" Just received from Paris.
The truth is, we need warm clothing
in this country in the winter season, es-
pecially in the northern latitudes and
if fashion does not furnish it, common
sense should. Fancy designs, moreover,
are not suited to plain, serviceable ma
terials. Deep points, sash ends, and the
like, may be pretty in silk, cashmere, or
even in velvet, properly trimmed and
mounted, but they are entirely out Rf
place in heavy tufted and beaver cloths,
whose thick texture and quiet colors
seem to demand especially the dignity of
simplicity.
Apart from the white elOaks, wb'r6
are quite unique, and limited TO the few
. persons which can afford to wear them,
perhaps the prettiest and most dressy
clOaks of the season are the half-fitting
/ paletots, in Humboldt purple, and ma
: rine blue velvet cloth, trimmed upon the
/ seams (Iengthwisel with heavy black silk
braids, worked with Jet. Some of these
are plain upon the edge others are cut
out and trimmed to simulate over
tapping leaves; but the general effect Is
/ the same, and it is always tasteful and
becoming.
/ The g0red sack clOaks, with sleeves
i aud round cape, trimmed with q Ear-
row border OF grebe or Astracan, is the
most suitable and useful cloak of the
selsOn, but it is hardly introduced here
vet, and will probably DO more fashion
able next winter than it has been this.
In fact, edged with warm bordering Of
fur, hat, muff, and collar to match, il
/ may De considered the Tannhauser OF
/ costumes, the toilette Of the future.
SHORT DRESSES.
About the new short dress, there is no
question it is the most admirable, sensi-
ble and useful fashion which has been
invented in modern times, and we hope
sincerely that ladies everywhere will
sustain it ana makettperman A con-
venient dress for the street is just what
has always been needed. The "bloomer -
was an effort in that direction, but II
made carieatures of women, and besides,
did not originate In the proper quarter to
obtain recognition. The short gored
dress has all the advantages of the
blONmer, and more, without any OF
its disadvantages it is pretty, neat, con-
venient, modest and inexpensive. I
provides a costume in which ladies can
walk, ride or travel all the year round,
with as much ease as gentlemen can
in their cloth suits. But it must be made
WebIaad tastefully, OF materiRl suited tC
to soeie, and OF a quality that will stand
wear ana exposure without injury. The
pTetuest short dresses we have seen are
cut out in squares over the plating Of the
of the petticOat, or oyer a wide fiat plait'
ing that Stimulates petticOat. The edge
IS always bound with calOred braid, Ol
edged with heavy jet braid. Another
style has plain edge laid over plating
with yandyke or scOllOps simulated by
narrow lines of JET ehsnille cord, or sill
braid buttons, to match the trimming
or occupying the spaces.
Some short dresses are made with {
double vandyked edge, the upper points
hHished with tassels. This will do fol
little girls, but il is altogether too fanci
full for adults, and especially for a stree
dress, which should be plain and unob
strusively. In arranging a skirt Of thi
kind, care must be taken to have thi
points from which the tassels are sus
pended, placed between the lower ones
A stiff lining between the material ant
the facing is necessary to keep the point
smooth and in place. Bands of silver o
braid of graduated widths are sometime
put upon the petticoat instead of tn
plating, and have the advantage o
being newer they also look well, but W
, prefer the plating, as far as appearance
is concerned.
Only self-cOlOrs, very narrow stripes, o
! small figures, should be used in the com
: position of a short dress large design
+ of any kind, whether plaid, stripe, or je
, figure, being manifestly out of place
The costume should also be generall
made in suits, or as nearly so as possible
The short sacque, cut out or trimme
to match the skirt, will be the carmen
generally worn with short dresses dun
ing the spring season, and will be yer
. appropriate for milder skies and a les
. rigorous state of the atmosphere. Owe
such a toilette a waterproof cloak ma
/, be thrown as occasion demands it, CON
pletely shielding ii from possible injury
: Never wear a wide cloak or shaw
! with a short dress in either one loSs
always out of harmony with the eiOsl
/. compact eharacteEOf the general design
4 and it entirely spOils its effect. 1t
> much better to have one neat, cOmplet
q suit, than a dozen in6OngT1Ous articles
> dress.
i HI.ACK SILK AND RECEPTION TOILETTE
J Heavy black silk is more in vogU
than ever it is cut gored, without plait
s and with long train. The narrow an
# somewhat contracted appearance
i these tOilettes is relieved by lines
e heavy silk braid headed s1sc-h jet, whie
S cover the seams and form ornaments f
y the tops Of the sleeves.
D A magnificent reception" toilet
S prepared for bride recently, eOnsiste
Il of a skirt of rich white grOsgrain, Orni
4 mented with plating put on in hollo'
u squares, the spaces nlleQ III Win EOs6bAt
: of lace, in the center Of each of which
: a crystal head button. A crystal heas
/ ing is placed an inch from the upper edg
i of the plating. A tunie Over-dress {
n green velvet rounds off from the poin
}, and is flounced with wide poiI
i applique lace, which trails
,, the edge Of the plating behin'
Il The velvet bodice Is cut veT
a low and square, with short sleeve
e both edged with a narrow standing lac
II Silver cord forms the heading 10 the lat
d upon the skirt and bodice, and cords an
It tsssels are used 10 loop up the tun
:. lightly on each side, and also no orni
IS ments for the tops Of side, and also Il
q ornaments for the tops of the sleeve
n A silver filigree baud, forming diadel
j ia front of the head, is the proper Orni
ys ment TO wear with this dress. The nee
d lace and other ornaments should be
= diaunoDds, or silver flligree. enrichs
Il with cut crystals.
le Narrow feather trimming is nut
II used for satin dresses, and is very prett
3 though less permanently useful tn.
e. lace.
a. BABY waists and short puff
I'd sleeves, striped with eolored ribbons, a
: made in white muslin and other th
% materials for evening dresses for you
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