The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-08-30
AN ATTEMPT TO ASCEND MOUNT ARAaAT.
T7yom me S,lndoV Ma0aztne.

way into the ancient kingdom of Persia. We
deviated from the usual route for the purpose
Of visiting Ararat. We accordingly made our
way TO Erivan, the capital of the district in
which il stands, and residence Of Russian
Governor. Either from policy or courtesy we
had been provided with a Cossack escort, aud
40 our arrival in a city rarely visited by stran-,
oars nroduced some sensation among its quiet
inhabitants. Ere we entered, however, we
Daused upon the slopes above it to catch the
last plories Of the sun falling upon Mount
Ararat. Il seemed to stand on the far-stretch
INC plain before us, the worlds great barrier
pvramid Gracefully it rises to 1880 feet
1vitbout any mOuntain-form to break the
solitude of its reign. The lesser cone on
its side alone varies the graceful outline
of fhe whole. It's summit, crowned with
everlasting SHOWS, was now sparkling
in dazzling brilliancy, and flooded with the
golden light OF heaven. Around its breast
lieht vapory mists of softest hues hung float
ing; while below, along the almost bound
less plain, the baser mists of earth were
gathering fast, brooding over the stOried
Araxes, whose silver line disported in bold
sweeps hither and thither over the broad
level which forms the mountains base. 1t
is one of the most sublime and solemn spots
l have visited in this fair creation of God.
The mountain, the river, the plain, all open
before you in a solitude so profound as to
sober you into sadness, and make you feel,
especially towards eventide the spirit OF
the scene. Beyond the rivers sparkling
curve, and the mountain piercing into
heaven, you see nothing in the far distance
but the last stronghold of the Muscovite-a
few checkered lines of cantonments, where
he bdes his time, ready to spring upon the
l,o,, nf A. ,oI .,,,x
entranced, while lights and shades of every
hue fitted in oeaseless play over the face of
the lovely mountain, suddenly all was changed.
Ofall that was dazzling beauty before, nothing
now remained but the cold ashy outline of the
mountain against the sobered sky. The sun
sunk to rest, and Death flung its twilight
shadows, darkening all around. AS these
deepened over the silent landscape, with a
true feeling of the Eastern insecurity we has
tened down into the city for shelter.
Our approach lay through dusty lanes, be-
tween mud walls whose frequent gaps re-
Vealed to us neglected gardens behind,
where, amid a tangled wilderness of weeds
and flowers, peach and almond trees were
fOurishing, whose luxuriant branches con-
tinually wantoned over the walls into the
road, incOmmoding our passage. We fol-
lowed a stream, now murmuring over pebbles,
and now furrowing the soil into pools, through
which our beasts toiled heavily. Tawny half
starved dogs kept pace with us, barking from
the top of the walls an ungracious welcome.
Low barred doorways appeared at intervals,
carefully closed against approach. One or two
that CHANGED to be open revealed singular
scene of domestic dirt and confusion within.
Amidst rank rubbish heaps you might see
donkeys and horses, men, women, and chill
dren, sharing the common right of home in
kindred and contented fellowship. You were
sure, 90 suddenly looking back, to surprise a
wOman's head, curiously peering round by
the doorpost after the stranger while to save
her modesty from his unhallowed gaze, she
covered her lips with her hand, or drew the
protecting yasmah (veil) across her mouth.
At length we emerged into large square,
two sides of which were occupied by the Gov
ernor's residence and the public Offices, the
others by a bazaar, and the Russian fortress,
through which you pass into the country
beyond. An English garden occupies the area
Of the square, where shrubs of various climes,
and flowers amid rude parterres are kept in
languid existence by occasional streams ot
water poured around their thirsty roots. In
the centre of this fragrant scene, overlooked
by some grim pieces of ordnance, rises paw !
lion for music breathed from harmonious Italy
For the anomalous Russ not only places his
iron hand upon the Eastern world, but has
taxed the science of Europe for his sway, andits
richest melodies to charm his vacant hours
Passing through this square, where, as
night was coming on were few loungers, W.
made our way to the Station" a building
provided everywhere at certain intervals il
countries recently subjugated by Russia fo
the convenience of Government official ira
vellers. They are our Indian Oak bungalow
Russianized, or the French Algerian caravan
serais. Supposing the stranger on his arri
val to be admitted, he has room assigned tt
him, where he finds a fireplace, a plai
square table, a wooden bedstead, q couple Q
chairs, occasionally a small square looking
glass over the chimney, and, as the Germa
SAYS, ''weiter NIGHTS" | had nearly fol
gotten, however, one further indispensable
and never-failing piece of furniture-namely
small picture of the Virgin, or of the grea
Russian Saint Nicholas, perched high u
In the corner of the room, with a lam
or candle ready before it for you
inferred devotion. An old soldier re
ceiYes you on your arrival who is at ono
the guardian of the station, and your generi
servant. His first reception of you is, "S
chase ST chase % which is the traveller
principal prosecuting genius throughout a
the Russias. 1t should signify immediately
but really means any remote indolent perie
your humble bowing servant may determine
Be your wants ever so reasonable or urgent,
matters not: you must wait his will, unles
indeed you are a general officer; then "
chase" becomes an actuality, accompanied
the most obsequious consideration. In an
other case your sOldier-attendant is general
too stupid to understand your wants, or I'll
endeavors of your servant to save him labo
But if YOU chance TO be a foreigner, alas f
YOU for then he has understanding enoug
L .s,,As. 40 oap n