Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1867-09-27
z tFrom Demorest.]
OCTOBER FASHIONS.

Embroidery is great feature of the new
cloaks for the coming season; embroidery
both upon cloth and upon velvet some
times executed in braidwork, sometimes
in silk and beads. -Ia .-l.r.
The "reins" at the back of the cloak ar,
still feature, and they are wide, and al
most always richly trimmed or embroid
cred.
Short sacs and paletots are still worr
upon the street. but the garments prepar-
ing for the season which is approaching
are longer and much more sensible.
One of the newest styles is buttoned al
the way down the front, is cut somewhat
In close, sac shape, and may be worr
with or without the cape that accompanies
it, and which renders it Independent o.
furs. --
Another style is. cut In five points, ha:
long, flowing sleeves. trimmed with black
lace, and buttons surrounded with lace
This is suitable shape for velvet.
Opera cloaks are embroidered this sea.
son, and the novelty is the oriental EN-.
broidery, which is executed in various col
ors. There is nothing SO pretty, however
or so well adapted tor wear with all sorts OF
dresses as pure white opera cloak. desti-
tute or any admixture OF color in body OF
trimming. .iasel 1sa1-5 -Ez
The apparently growing popularity OF
suits has a discouraging effect upon any
effort to invent a novelty in cloaks so few
now are worn which form or are independ-
ent of the dress. This season, however,
promises to develop some new and very
beautiful styles. 40 - -
Burnooses, which have never been en-
tirely lost sight of are revived for fall
wear; they are graceful garments upon
tall, matronly women. and deserve a per-
petual lease OF life. Square hoods are at
tached to them, which are drawn up7in the
center with an embroidered band or loop
af kk,rat, k<,ef
ulated, and then wide ''reins'' are attached,
which reach nearly to the bottom of the
cloak, and are richly ornamented. I'D
Shawls are more in vogue, also, than they
have been for some timu; and, instead of
being worn with point, are folded square,
and worn as burnoose, or with the upper
part folded over as straight cape. This
latter method is neither graceful nor con-
venient. ii-.-si ~ 81 -.1f ~ ii-.f lie- OH
Very new shawls, duplicates of some ex-
hibited at the Paris Exposition. are revers-
ible, gold Cd, one side and scarlet on the
other, for example, and made in the finest
wool. They are very striking. but suited
only for carriage wear.
The golden autumn days rarely demand
much vigor of preparation in. the way of
wraps. Almost anything that is pretty,
and completes the costume, will do for the
amount ef warmth and protection needed !;
and since the fashion OF street suits has
been invented, it has left little to say of
cloaks as independent structures.
Necessarily the change i'm the style of
dress has effected change in the outer gar
ments. The cloaks must be restricted to
harmoniZe with the rest of the toilet; but
they need not be ridiculously short in cold
weather, and so rendered unfit for all USE
ful purposes, as was the case last winter.
The newest silk garment forms sort OF
half fitting paletet at the hack and a man
will od ON Ia int ha ri
ming consists of narrow rouLedu1 of black
satin, put on so as to form sash end down
the centre of the back, and side stripes
which cross upon the shoulders and descend
back and front.
We notice some silk paletots, with sash
ends, which descend below the edge of the
garment. But these are not becoming or
GRACEFUL ' 9'H2
OF shawls, the Paisleys, with either black
or scarlet centres, and deep. slender, palm
leaf borders, are the most fashionable and
distinguished for visiting wear. They drape
magniticently over deeply trained dresses,
and are infinitely more stylish than the
white centres, which have grown common,
and are not sufficiently dressy tor evening,
nor suitable for day wear.
There are new and very pretty plain
shawls, which we recommend, however, to
those who want neat and useful article,
inexpensive, but quiet and ladylike. These
are square shawls of white wool, covered
with small neutral dot or fig
ure, and having narrow border
and white wool crimped fringe
These shawls are somewhat old fashioned
in appearance, butisoft, and will wash like
a piece Of white cotton cloth. The price
is seven dollars. A good Paisley ranges
from fifty to seventy-five, and from that to
hundred and fifty dollars. -'
The very latest mode of wearing long
shawl is TO fold it square. and then turn it
down so as to form straight cape twenty
five inches deep from the top, and over this
again narrow straight collar is folded
down. 1t is fastened close up to the neck,
and nothing can be imagined uglier or more
clumsy. s4s+.ls. -.
Burnooses in silk and wool have been re-
vived, and are always handsome wear for
large, matronly women. .f.
The new shape is that of a square shawl,
cut in at the lower part of the back, SO as
to form two deep points. The trimming
forms deep, square hoodiupon the back,
down the center of which are long, broad
reins, the ends descending SO as to fill up
the space in the center of the back between
the points, 7fsra --e
Another style has square hood cut in
points and drawn up in the center with a
loop of ribbon, silk or passementerie.
New "BoULEvARD" SKIRT.-We have
alluded in several recent numbers to a new
skirt for fall and winter wear, which, we
thi.ik. is destined to become great favor
ite, and which certainly merits all that can
be said in its praise. 1t is named the Boule-
ward, and, as we have described it, is an all
wool gored skirt, without seam. beautiful
in texture, and adapted with great exact
ness for wear over a small hOoped skirt,
and with long or short gored dresses.
Recently we paid visit to large man.
utactory where these skirts are made, and
A.. =, I.1 1k..l eIrs-
and peculiar, our readers may be glad to
hear something about it.
Perhaps some of them may have seen the
process of manufacturing fel5 hats, and will
remember the double revolving cones that
are used, over which the fine carded wool
is stretched in layers, until a sufficient
thickness is obtained, and which is then
saturated with substance, 'milled,"
"pulled." steamed, dried and pressed.
1t Is this process which has been adapted
to skirts-the cones of course, being of the
proper size-and which has resulted in the
construction of a pure wool garment, light
soft, yet firm, impervious to moisture, ex-
( ceedingly durable, easily cleaned, perfect
in shape, and free from the burdensome
plaits which have made the Balmoral skirts
so weighty, and which could not now be
worn consistently with the slenderness of
figure required by the gored dresses.
Under-skirts made of any material can,
of course, be gored, but they are either ex-
pensive in the making, or give much trou-
BILE to ladies who undertake to do it them
selves, while the Boulevard is already gored
B in the manufacturing, saves the trouble
and the seams, and makes a much more
perfect and beautiful skirt.
The whole process OF manufacture, from
the first grading and cleaning of the wool
to the trimming and finishing by fifty busy
sewing machines, is very beautiful, and
clearly demonstrates the excellence and
pure quality of the skirts. No .'shoddy"
mixture need be feared, for it could