The daily dispatch. [volume] (Richmond [Va.]) 1850-1884, 1867-08-22
Revolt Against Paris.

1uC lcludlC IdSulOuaUl6 WOTlU Is pTc-
pairing to revolt against Paris. Hereto
fore the delusion has obtained widely that
the Empress herself was the source, the
very fountain-head Of fashion Inspiration.
To her was attributed the revival of the
hoop skirt, and forthwith the hoop skirt,
modernized into crinoline, spread itself
throughout Christendom, while the CHG
non has gradually travelled from the back
Of the neck to the top of eyebrows in sup
posed obedience to the will Of Eugenia.
And so with the bonnets, growing small
by degrees and beautifully less, and
the furbelows and hounces and all
the multitudinous millinery Of woman's
wear. But lately it has come to
light that it is not the Empress, nor the
Court, nor even the modistes Of Paris
who "set" the fashions for the whole fe-
male world but the lorettes and leaders
of the demi-monde lay down the laws
which guide fashion in Paris itself, as well
as in London, New York, and all the cities
that follow Paris fashions. This shocking
discovery has stimulated the wives and
mothers and some Of the daughters Of
England to propose in London the forma-
ton of q "Ladies' Reform League"
not only to organize revolt against
Paris, but to suggest measures for
general emancipation from the pre-
sent thraldom of miliners and hair
dressers. It is declared that fashion,
though fascinating, is really slavery
in q most frightful form, compelling its
devotees to make themselves generally
ridiculous, to submit to much bodily dis
comfort, and even torture, and to launch
into extravagant expenditures, wasting
untold sums Of money upon materials
which arc useless, or unnsable, long before
they are worn out. So there is q cry for a
reform, and a general enlistment for a
fight against fashion, and rebellion
against fashions inexorable DEGREES.
Herein is hint for the women Of Ame-
rica. Years ago call was issued in this
city for fashion congress, proposing to
assemble the acknowledged leaders Of
taste and style in the different cities of
the United States to suggest fashions
which should be strictly American. Such
movement would be populer now, if
women would take the common sense
view that strict following Of French
fashions is not only absurd, but that our
climate, which is warmer in summer and
colder in winter, ought TO compel an adap-
tation of the American female dress to
the American seasons and surroundings.
When Jenkins takes an inventory Of
the heavy silks and satins that are
to be seen on summers night at any
Of our watering places, it is manifest
enough that what might be appropriate
for cooler Paris is sadly out of place in
swcltering Saratoga. AS for the style and
trimmings Of the dresses Of many OF our
most fashionable bellies, the sharp and
scrutinizing glance of the "intelligent
foreigner" who periodically parades Broad
way, Chestnut street, Pennsylvania ave-
nue., and other streets and avenues in
other cities, may possibly be taken for
involuntary admiration, but if literally
translated, it might bring a blush to
many woman's cheek. There are as
vet no strictly American female fash
ions in dress, unless we except the
Bloomer costume, which is altogether
too distinctive, exposing even the learned
DR.. Mary Walker to ridicule in Paris,
while the females among the Oneida
Communists, as one of our cores
pondents who recently described the
community informs us, wear this dress
only at home, and wisely lay it aside when
they go abroad. But there is an opportu-
nifty, indeed necessity, for reform in
fashions in this country, which shall adapt
our women's clothing to the country and
the climate, and emancipate the leaders of
"our best society" from forced follow
ing of the fashions and dicta promulgated
by the demi-monde Of Paris.-Ne,o York
| World.