The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-09-19

lrOm Pai1g, an0 Wnen faSDlOnaDle new 1Ofk
has shaken off the dust from the highways and
byways, and is once more ''at hOme.n In tact
we have already seen styles altogether more
novel and distinctive, which are sure TO win the
admiration OF ladies OF unique taste. O1e of
these has been received. The shape is that OF
togua, with ears cut in at the side, and an ele-
vated, somewhat projecting bIim, heightened
by the stylish arrangement of the trimming
which consists OF an a grette, fastened with fan
shaped diamond ornament. The material was
white satin, mounted with white velvet, en-
riched with lace.
Another bonnet in the same style was made in
scarlet velvet, mounted with white satin, the
brim festooned with pearls. The "Ambassa-
dress" Is the name given to this design,
A charming bonnet in I" "Bsmarkn satin
attracted attention. The crown was laid in
plats, the back ornamented by scarf of black
lace, tied over the narrow satin strings In front.
The dadem was covered in front with velvet
and shaded by a rich cluster of grapes and
autumn leaves.
very distinguished bonnet probably gives
an indication of an exclusive style for the
coming season. The quaint crown is partly
surrounded by a rather high, circular brim, set
up, and thrown somewhat back from tue lace,
in The style of the "Prncesse or Arragon,D VINO
has had her name given to this peculiar aud
stately cbdpedU.
Among the early fall styles displayed are
toqUets OF straw, ornamented with simple plalt
OF velvet, studded with daisies.
We notice also toqLet, very much the rage
now among elegant women, which Is made OF
black satin, mounted with velvet, and trimmed
bee, the ends floating at the back.
An effective bonnet was of black straw, the
trimming scarlet velvet ribbon carelessly twisted
around the crown, with loops, and ends falling
at the back. The velvet ribbon was made still
more striking by being studded at distant inter-
walls with white daisies.
The head-dresses and flower garnitures re-
ceived here are quite new and indicate that
floral wreaths, punches, garlands, and cordons
will be the fashionable trimmings for ball
dresses during the coming season.
BRONZE BoNNETs.
The popular rage has altogether set, thus far,
in the direction of the "bTonzen brown, the
"Blsmark" brown, the ''golden" brown, or
whatever other name serves to indicate the
mahogany tint which has all at once acquired
such notoriety.
Bronze" straw bonnets and round hats have,
ere now, commenced flooding the villages and
towns all over the country, and they will be
seized with great avidity as new fashion, until
it is found out that the color is "dreadfully"
unbecCming, that the "bronZe' comes off on the
face and fingers, and leaves, after short time
and little exposure, only very shabby brown
bonnet. a
1t is quite impossible, however, to prevent
people generally from being caught by glitter,
and so the bronze hats, and bonnets, and gold
and bronze leaves, the bright metallic flowers,
and the glisteDing beads and spangles, may be
expected to have a run. But after all, the
bronze brown is nothing to the new color candi-
date for popular favor, the fire" brown, which
literally darts out tongues of flame, and is dis
agreeably suggestive of the possible conse-
Quences of wearing gay bonnets and brilliant
ornaments, after We have shuft1ed OF this
mortal coil.
How a woman would look in a bonnet of this
"fre" colored material, ornamented with leaves
and berries to Datch, il is impossible to con-
ceive; it might be like an immense box OF lucifer
matches all taking fire at once, or like the top
N full 1ns5 operation on dark hight She
| certainly would look like anything but gentle
| woman that man would feel like making love
to, and paying the bills or for the rest OF his
| natural life.
There are shades of brown which the autumn
woods long years ago made beautiful, and which
| do not need fashionable recognition but it is a
sin 10 vulgarze them into tinsel, and gilt paper,
| and enamel, and a still greater sin for women to
allow themselves to be made the show-cards of
! such desecration.
But it is time to extinguish this desultory talk
| about bonnets, lower condition of tie ther-
mometer may make even fire" more endurable,
and, in the meantime, let us look about and see
| what more may prove OF interest to lady readers
| in benighted regions, where ''opening daysn and
| millinery fantasies are scarcely known.
And irst what is there to be said about
STREET DRESSES.
| except that short dresses are in the ascendant
for walking wear, and have taxed the ingenuity
of the medtSteS in inventing new and pretty
styles? The faVorlte designs are In two colors,
or III two materials, both OF the same color.
Grey or brown velveteen, for example, Is used
as band for short skirt of the same color,
but of different material, and also for the short
sac or paletot, which has no trimming except
! DlOnIO VI opai puItOue' 1ne upper ouSe VI Tue
band, and the lower edge of the sac may be
straight, or cut out in square teeth-the latter
style is the-more general.
Costumes made of two colors consist OF q
shortgored skirt, with bodice, over a high
dress, the skirt the length of an ordinary petit.
coat. The sac is OF the same color and material
as the upper skirt
Beautiful costumes of this description have
been imported this season. richly embroidered
and ready for wear.
They are composed of black silk with an un
derdress of blue, the embroidery exquisitely
executed in black silk aud fine jet. The price Il
from $3.50 to 5000 each, which, of course, puts
them out OF the reach of all but the very
wealthy.
1t is question with many why we canno
have ready-made clothing in this country fo
ladies and children, at popular prices, as they
do abroad; but the reason lies simply in thI
infinitely greater cost of labor here, and th,
enormous rents. Ten establishments, eacl
doing ten times the amount of business, woulC
be crowded into one such building, in Paris, a
one OF our merchants occupy, while the cost O
labor is about one-6fth of what is paid here
and our prices of material are enhanced by on
system of heavy taxation.
, But to return 10 short dresses, IL Is satisfaC
tory to know that the Empress Eugenie ha
adopted them, and that they are UNIVERSAL
worn abroad-more generally than at any tim
since their first introduction. pretty costume
just completed for a young lady, consists @
gold-colored silk, bound and trimmed wit
pipings of black; over-dress, short gored skirt
J and square, low bodice of grey silk, speckle
with black and gold, cut out In teeth upon tn
edges, and bound with gold color.
Short walking dresses are fashionably mad
OF goldcolored serge; that is to say, the surtac
? Is gold, upon q black ground. They are trimme
NJith hoYaA dc ,..sN Ntv,s,s ,T a.olr koera