New-York tribune., 1867-09-03
THE FASHIONS.
NINE. DEMOREsT's OPENING.

sentatives OF this enerprisng Regent OF FASHIONS sug
| gested Autumnal bowers yesterday The warmth al
lowed in September colors Of dress displayed itself aons
the thick hanging patterns in tones OF crimson anu Vi
| gold" some gifted Hopkins has 1t.
First, note the exquisite embroidered waists In or
CANDY. with bands cuffs and belts; berthas OF SILK
worked with purse silk and beads. These are aready
familiar 20 many. by the bellies OF Mahopac and
Newport 1t adds much TO the interest Of those beautu
fabrics know that they the work of lady who
finds ia this occupation her livelihood 1t seems tat
marriage does not always exempt woman from sesup
port for this skilled wOrkwOman she should be proud OF
the title is encountered by the nae not the protecon'
OF successful publisher whose prousely Illus
| trated periodicals familiar to the fashonloyng
| world.
Dresses palmer and not so long. The plain eoreu
skirt without plas is the ruling model and home OF
demi-toette dress has but few inches Of train. The
coatseeve is still worn, though an appendage usually
falls from the elbow giving the effect OF Towing see'e
with the comfort OF tigh The real coatseeve Is
made wider wrist than For elaborate dress
the sharply pointed flowing sleeve short the forearm
is usually made up. One OF the best patterns In this
shape in light green the inside sleeve about six inches
long, only the outside threequarters OF yard, open
from the shoulder down, trimmed on both edges with
black gupure, headed by bands OF famecoored satin
the sides held together by straps OF the satin fastened by
black rosettes with silver buttons in the center. Ihe
lower edge OF the sleeve straight, with gupure ana
I
pointed cap outlined In dents of satin with tiny
ornamental buttons in each point; deep cuff rises
almost 10 the elbow from the wide wrist made by the
trimming; inside this is wide, pointed sash'
crossed by straps held with fancy buttons The
writer is explicit in describing patterns Of any descrp
ton both TO do justice to the designs themselves and to
give lady readers clear idea Of what they will have to
select from.
Basque waists decidedly in favor with short pointed
lappes in front and long behind The pretiest one
mauve, with square neck very low in front the
basque graduated in five parts, the fronts pointed the
sides and back square, opened to the ber and trimmed
on all the edgesl with quilting of the six pinked at the
border flowing sleeve with square end TO suit the basque
Another waist is high In the neck with pompadour out
line Of black lace low back and front running 30 as TO
head the sleeve and filed with three straps OF lace nser
ton crossing each shoulder admired trimming which
gives much of the grace Of the pOmpadOur open neck
The basque is short in front having solely the effect OF
the double pointed corsage, which the bellies de-
termincd TO have by some artl0ce or other,
even If the fashion plates assure them that
points are OF OF favor The waist is Of ordinary length
under the arm with three mtred tabs behind trimmed
with gupure. headed by fold of satin the width OF
bellies eyebrow. The little cOaseeye has two rows OF
lace straight round the wrist and cap in three pieces to
match the basque points behind pretty highnecked
blue pattern has the darling tiny points before and Is
scooped and short the hip with rounded tabs falling
four inches beside the front points and much deeper each
side Of the single point that scarcely comes below the
belt in the Of the back. The trimming is narrow
double rows OF satn with round buttons in every scOop
and dent of them running down the front OF the
waist three inches outside the fastening row.
Skirts are trimmed in two styles-the deeppointed
pepum tunic properly the back point almost reach
ing the hem and the apron style, which describes large
tabs on every breadth lovely street pattern was
in mauve with bias binding round the hem, headed by
narrow fold studded with silver buttons. The tunic
arpu fhrop narD O.
half the depth OF the skirt. that behind within half yard
Of the hem This tunic is only outlined by the silver
studded folds, inside which, to make the effect more
dressy et row OF maear9ons $ IN purple SIR WIN silver
ment ~" sleeves are small, with pointed epauetcs ana
second costume has lavender rored underJupe per
fecy straight almest fitting over the hoop relieved 10y
"a single row OF fancy trimming The upper dress
Is green and quarter yard shorter, laid Ia seven
shallow box plas three behind two each SIDE the fiOnt;
these plaits descend with outlines OF black fancy trim
ming and fall IN mered points cut OUT Ike sashcs, below
the trimmed edge OF the green skirt, Perhaps this novel
style may be better described by saying the hem OF the
upper upe is cut with broad inferred points at intervals
Of ;hrteiOurhs Of yard Inside the trimming the out
line is studded with small buttons. broad. black
studded belt and flowing sleeve add ornament to THIS
drcss which looks especially fresh aud youthful ana vi"
inialllDly be followed by the dOWaseIs. 49,. IN, ,.
The showiest pattern had basque waist win dccp
point on each hip, coming with htto notch 10 the belt
In front Thrceiourhs OF yard Deow iA!r thi9S ioHs
o. inch folds describe deep unc point on each sdc the
With Tosqtte and tasels few inches from o edge Of Tic
skirt Between these double tunes, on caeh sdc II u
that the effect Of the whole Is SORT oil lattice on
the side, and the sleeve IS trimmed To correspond dc
scrpton hardly do justice 70 this elaborate and
strikiugly handsome design.
The pepums are very pretty one IN n!us, Win & edge
U9r,9 d Od 9n 9n thSt dd nnorer Of ward on the hips
Tannd into long mcrcd sashe on the back. Tie belt
Is two inches wide edged with lace ana mas fancy ro
sette. striking in flame yellow, 10 wear over y
skirt Of black gupure with remarkable effect, has point
IN front ive.eghtls OF a yard Is quarter on tho hps
and falls into rounded yardOng tab al the back which
A. center
edges and bears large black loops back and 'front.' The
a6lier behind heavily frnged with black and outlined
from the rest the pepum by narrow black ne on tho
seams OF black ribbon curve inside tAY abller
leve the planness Of the sides. Madame Dem0Fests
designs especially suit brunettes She knows how TO work
mp those vivid scarlets and yellow, when require a
guarded taste and bright fancy 70 combine alstcaly
The Jacket patterns o s Are Ss Mt SaT sleeve Sre
most graceful one OF these was in light green with
seena gre the dent turned inside This Vas very taking
and viii be acceptable 80 white pique morning
cool sunny morning vet variation Of tie miserable
little dist CURING Turkish jacket that cut ito mpernent
front IKE sack that wanted 10 be cape and did not
know how to- this white jacket reaching eeverly 10
fhe waist cut square back aud front and OF equal length
with pointed opening three inches each side the buttons
and straight sases & & s fSS S o G @ SG E ag9 aS9
inside on tiny blue straps closely arranged renan nan
trimming ruus up the front ard each side the eashcs n
the waist, and also the slash IN the flowing sleeve
well, and advise drcssmakers to send foTit.
The styles for children were 80 pretty that the writer
wanted TO describe them all The Simplest that signifies
most desirable 10 best tases) were Gabrielle frocks with
deep paetOt outlined in trimming and little pointed
Tane IN the shoulder This the vOre style OF street
Costume Especially neat In buff lenO with black trim
inlpts Anbfher pretty walking suit was plain green
skrf and bhs1ueke Jacket the only trimming 10 which
WAS fancy edge bound In rows Of BLACK and white The
skirts are cut o in all sorts OF fancy edges win rows OF
dderent colored piping, or bias silk put round. .
bright little dress was white sPaca yith L, diamonds
trtmmed with narrow black velvet. seeyeless
sack Of crimson silk, with notched edge and
shorn can is 70 be worn over this dress.
Anoher "a blue Trimmed by black ribbon,
with soferlno edges, or piping aad solierilo buttons