The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-10-08
THE FASHIONS.

and Royal styles from the East-Nhe
"Butterhy" Game - Expecting New
and Dynastic Sensation -- Out Door
sports POpIIns, silks, VeIvets, and
,s-New Hats and TrimmIngs.
1.-THE declining ren!cs at the
PARIs2 Srpr p .oyivsd "ud am happy to say the
Lg5 BoutsG5 old lady Fashion = recruiting iresa lt
stronoth during tue absence Oh ner N@s2E9'
children at BSGen, they nave eNchanseu con.
soils for rouge ct nor, under the encoura5mg
eOiIes of Mustapha Pacha, who gains ana loses
millions at the roulette table WITH equal indlle-
renee, and they are, also cmulo9s TO 0utdo inc
manly pastimes is a royal maxim, but 1t is as
often enforced by necessity. Now that your
readers are duly informed that hard coin
is rolling in its usual streams, will follow tue
elite to its accustomed resorts at this season OF
the year.
/ find or rather LETT, Homburg composed Of a
little Of everything, like a German salad
princes horse dealers, great ladies and peJtes
danes, atoms OF dandies, mllliOnaires, and eye
sunkcn bidSes. AT Wiesbaden there is more re-
fnement, more green and currant colored cos
tunes, a higher class Of Chignon, and moro
expanded crinoline,
While ali tins is going on beyond the bounda-
ries of our empire the Imperial family are at
Biarritz, where they will remain until the dap
pled pack start up harcs and pheasants over the
hunt at FontainCbleau. The coart OF France
arrived at Biarritz on the Sth, and at about TIE
same time the King of Portugal was being
almost strangled by monkey, who gave MIN
an afleCtionate embrace as his youthful Majesty
was quietly walking through his ''gude town"
of Lisbon. The tenderness of the quadTumanO
is styled an assault, and the loving carIcature
OF mankind was executed.
The Biarritz costumes are all Eastern Ladies
wear wells which are put on with high como,
and hang in lovely folds of Algerian challi all
over their robes and are as useful as shaWls or
draped mantes.
A new game played in these high circles is the
butterfly game, which has a japanese origin.
young lady-she must be pretty, slender, ana
wear low body, short sleeves, and some Vapo
rous tissue-kreels in the centre OF room, ana
holds in her left hand bouquet, IN her right
fan. A butterfly is suspended from some ln-
visible wire, and kept lowering by the young
lady's fan, who must prevent it from settling on
the flowers, tanning II OIL IN all the graceful
attitudes of fascinating tease.
This is far-tetched most certainly; but good
many other games to keep of certain Duzzlng
insects are not quite so harmless. AS soon as
the butterfly but touches the nosegay, another
lady takes the kneeler's place. The only demo.
litions ] have heard of at Compiegne, notwith-
standing such billing pastme as the above is
that of large iron fence which formerly had
been constructed and covered with creeping
foliage, in order to remind Marie Louise of
Schoenbrunn. The Empress Eugenie has ordered
that it shall be pulled down.
This reminds me that the return of the ashes
of the Duke de Reichstadt is settled. The
PaIislans have greeted this news with wonder
full indifference, but when the day arrives the
bourgeois will none the less weep and sob
when the coffin, in silver chariot, under waving
feathers and velvet, will thread its way through
the dense crowds. In little time Napoleons
son will rest by his fathers side, after long
years of separation and exile. Will the fete
for this ceremony will aud must be called
tete-bear the character OF funeral or OF
merry fair day in Paris Banners must either
flaunt in cay colors or drums must be muiiled
down richly lit aises.
Meanwhile the fashions are getting ready for
every emergency Hunters red coats are to
fash like sparks of fire over rolling grass lands.
Unridably vicious horses are TO clear ditch and
stream, and young hunters are to sit calm in
grey, blue, and purple riding habits, while their
thorough bIeds reek and steam, and their nOstrs
nobly ex and. These are real pleasures; such
sport is rational. How much more preferable
any outdoor exercise to the eternal hothouse
atmosphere of ball rooms! May toWling, hunt
lng boat racing, skating and archery find
women foremost. If this could be, future gene
ratiOns Will not degenerate, and we shall hear
less of nervous debility, want of appetite, and
poetry than is now the fashion. The pOetiCal
measles which afllict young ladies is the conse-
queDce of no bodily eXerdon. A good sharp
air soon puts an end TO the malady. Clothing
more beauteous than nymph-like, more useful
than tastidious, is getting ready for brier and
brake.
The woollen poplns worked with diminutive
silk flowers are called by all sorts OF names, and
they are nothing but substantial everyday
texture. The iavorites are nut browns, with
blue, red and maize Aowerets sprlnked over.
Many, too, are showered with gold and silver
dust
Silks are made with brocaded lace patterns.
Velvets are striped so as to initiate fur.
Satin cloth, as weollen satnet is also brocaded
with garlands. Our winter mantes are to be
made with two pair OF sleeves, one close fitting,
the other long and open, and square.
Gimp and jet, mixed, Will reign with Watered
ribbons on which gutta percha drops Initiate
cut Jet balls, and are much lighter, quite as brill
liant besides. good deal OF twisted fringe will
be worn in preference to silk fringe.
There are three new bonnets-the OOmpiegne,
the ImpeTatriCe, aud the Istria, The former is
a grey felt, with the head of some woodland
quadruped one side in a gallant cocade.
The ImpeTatrice is black felt worked with Jet
and is ornamented with an aigrette or sheat OF
gold and jet The Istria cap is a round ruby
velvet cap with gold palm-leaf.
PettiCoats are trimmed with white bands of
merino worked with Breton embroidery in all
colors. All our beau monde will leave chateau
and forest for the arrival of the Emperor of
Austria, who will be here, ii is said, with Victor
Emanuel and the King of Holland, and,
although 1t can interest no one, we are told
that the Gar of Russia is to fall in some where
with the Shah of Persia If they do not fall
out, no one here can care for this item.
Algerian Stripes and Calm Reelection
The Matrimonial "CuI Bono" of the
Exhibition - Hunting Costumes, and
tho Prevailing COIOrs - Fashionable
Mistakes, or Mistakes OF FashIOn-COs-
TUNES for the Queen or Portugal and
Russian Grand DuchesAes Matinee
RObes-Wlnter Hats-Lace Patterns ON
Silks-Eugenie at the Seaside,
PARIS, Sept. 20.-A dead calm and plentv Of
white Algerian stripes made of goats hair AMI
satin are the characteristics OF our present
Partisan circles. The old anecdote of the grocer