Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1867-10-25
fhsF In lFrom Frank Leslies Maeazine.l g
WHAT SHOULD BE WORN. AND
WHAT SHOULD NOT.
From the Tablets OF a Parfsian Lady v
, = s " of society.

WHAT SHOULD NOT.
From the Tablets OF a Parisian Lady
:. sssa 3 of society.
PARIS, November, 1867.
Fashions are making brilliant debut for
the winter season, with the splendid mate
rails that have been called forth by the
Universal Exhibition. -
Our great warehouses and manufacturer.
nave been seeking to outvie one another.
and the result is fortunate for US, since W,
have now greater choice than ever in ma
terials, colors and patterns.
There is quite collection of tissues de
fdntdisie, some wool and cotton, some wool
and silk, for morning dresses.
Very, silky poplins of magnificent tints
Then the England imported tweed, which
we have rendered finer and softer than it,
original namesake, and called by the, to Us.
very strange sounding name Of Knicker
booker. OF this we particularly noticed
two specimens, one of golden tint OF
brown over a darker shade of the sam.
color, and one white and black, extremely
glossy. {-'
Then quite new kind of material, called
Metallic. 1t is a woolen tissue, into which
are woven the tiniest shreds of gilt or sill
vered metal, almost imperceptible, but Civ
ing the whole dress sort of shine, which
makes it quite different from other materi-
ais, without being at all too glittering to
be in good taste for wearing in the daytime
The prettiest are the dark brown or dark
blue with golden shreds, dark ruby or vio-
let colors with silver ones.
: Besides these, there is new sort of rep
ribbed slantways; pretty chined tissues in
silk and wool; among the latter black
and brown one is remarkably nice.
Speckled materials, black over fawn COL
or, black over white, black over green or
violet or brown, all extremely pretty.
Although some of this winters materials
are striped, they are upon the whole most
ly chined, or speckled. or what are called
ttgre, that is spotted like tigers or leop-
There are also very handsome plain self
colored woOlen poplins, reps and cash
meres.
{ Cloth dresses will be much worn this
winter. The most fashionable are dark
brown, green or blue, with double skirts
and paletots, elaborately trimmed with
black silk braid work.
In silks we have rich gros grains, ribbed
or brocaded tissues. Also shot silks, a re-
lvival of an ancient fashion, dear to our
grandmothers, and very pretty too.
The most fashionable tints for shot silks
are orange and brown, bright rose color
and black, dark green and crimson, for
dresses to wear in the daytime; pink or
and white, for evening toilets. The latter
look remarkably lovely by lamplight.-
Self-cOlOred silk poplins and groS-grains
are OF an extremely thick, rich texture.
Cheaper silks have small chined or bro
caded patterns, and then there are rich bro
cades which stand up in folds by their own
weight, and silk velvets, without at least
one dress of which no lady's wardrobe is
now deemed complete.
The cronoline question is now disposed
of, so far as steel-hoOped jupons are con-
cerned; they are quite discarded by FASH
ion. Do not imagine, however, that our
fair Parsians walk about with lank, unsup
ported petticoats. will tell you their Sc
cret, they wear horse-hair jupons, which
give just sufficient support to very moder-
ately wide skirts.
For the daytime, the horsehair jupon
is short and round; for the evening, on the
contrary, it is long and train-shaped.
Sweeping trains are quite abandoned for
walking dresses. These have skirts about
two inches from the ground, thus not re-
quiring a porte.jupe of any kind. There is
generally a second skirt from seven to ten
inches shorter than the first; if not, the
second skirt is simulated by the trimming
of the dress. If the dress is OF cloth or of
any other warm, thick material, the pale
tot is made of the same.
Short loose paletots, or rather jackets,
are still much worn with morning toilets,
but there are also new models for the win
ter season.
The mantelet Eugene is in shape like
circular cape at the back; the side-pieces
form loose ample sleeves; in front this new
model resembles a short Breton jacket.
There are tight sleeves under the wide
ones. e-
. We have seen this model in gray cloth,
trimmed with black silk brOcaded braid,
and also in black velvet, ornamented with
passementerie and jet.
The Mantilla paletot is very long and
rounded at the back; the front pieces are
long also, but cut square at the bottom; the
side ones, however, are very short, and cut
out in small square tabs.
If made of velvet, the Mantilla paletot is
richly trimmed with passementerie bor-
der and guipure lace, or thick dull fringe;
if of cloth or cashmere, it is ornamented
with braid and buttons.
Paletots of the same material as the
dress are often made short at the back,
shorter still at the sides, while the front
pieces are continued into long square or
pointed lapels.
In fact great deal of variety has been
introduced this season in the shape of pale
tots, which last winter were uniformly cut
like short loose jackets. Now it would be
difficult task TO enumerate all the fanciful
pdbL6TUss bdUS, dUu ldpclS luIO WhlCu OlOS
are cut. In general, we observe this win
ter's paIetots have some tendency to re-
semble circular capes, scarfs, mautles, and
shawls as they are now wo. n, folded square
over the shoulders.
A dress and paletot of gray wooden pop
lin are made thus: Dress in the redingOte
shape, buttoned all the way down with flat
buttons of the same material. The skirt is
much gored, quite plain in front, and with
few plaits at the back. High bodice and
coat sleeves. To hide the slits of the pock-
cts, on either side of the front width there
are lappets bound with cross strips stitched
in the middle, and fastened on with but
tons. There are similar strips tor the epau.
lets. The paletot is, as the one above describ'
ed, short at the back and sides, and long ir
| front. 1t is trimmed all round with two
narrow cross strips of the same material
stitched in the middle; both cross strip;
come up to the neck, in the center of the
back, and are divided by row of buttons
| In front there is double row of buttons
| which are merely ornamental, for the pale.
tot is fastened with hooks and eyes.
| This is good pattern for plain morn
ing costume of any woolen material.
Ladies who object to short dresses have
their skirts looped up with loops and but
| tons. placed on the outside, or with hook
and eyes sewn on the wrong side of th'
dress. The former is the most cOnvenien
method the buttons should be of the sam,
material as the dress, so as to show as littl
as possible. The cross strips of the trim
ming may be of silk. of the same color o
the dress, instead of being of the same ma
terial. This renders the toilet much NOR
elegant.
1t is in good taste to wear the under
skirt, dress and paletot of the same mate
rial; with dark or gray dresses, however
a petticoat OF a brighter color is quite ad
missible.
Plaid petticoats are particularly fashion
able with gray or brown dresses. The,
are trim me with a black border, owe
which a pa tern is worked in braid of al
the colors of the plaid.
Short 6rn.soc NOT cn or,