Daily Davenport Democrat. [volume] (Davenport, Iowa) 1864-1874, 1867-10-29

Knowing the eagerness Win winch our |
lady readers ever peruse the latest fashion
able intelligence, VIC hasten to give them the
following fresh items from Harper's Basar.
They will prove highly interesting:
BoSNRrs.
We have . decided change to record in
the fail shapes, and for the winter still
greater novelties ere predicted. The "airy
fairy" Fanchon, so long popular. is gradu
ally being deposed BY . much more stately
bonnet, more in keeping with the pictur-
esoue costumes now worn. This bonnet 10
called the Marie Autoinette. The name of
that unfortunate queen is given generally
10 the styles Of the last century about to be
revived. TIE Marie Antoinetts bcnnet,
with all its variations Of mo1squctaire,
marquise and Princess Caroline, has . mar
row trim, short ea,s, and broad, fat
crown without the least resemblance of n
curtain. 1t is worn farther on the tor and
front Of the head than were the shapes of
last sc son. and Ats closely. over thc CHG
no1. Broad bandeAux Of gilt or OF velvet,
aud wSeaths of flowers, forming an ciabor-
ate dadem, is the most noticeable charsc
teris,ic OF the new shapes, and this 1t is
that gives the stately appearance requisite.
The string. are also an important feature IN
the new chapeau. 1t has usually two or
three pairs Of strings, intended for service
rs ell 40 ornament, as they are really re
quirsi to hold the short ears in the proper
position. The narrow ribbons that serve
to tie the bonnet at the throat are fringed
or ornamented with embroidery and lace.
The over strings are of real black with vel
vst ribbon insertion, or wide scarfs Of col
ored tu!le beaded with jet and gilt or dew
dropped with crystal, arranged in the
Spanish fashion over the back Of the bon
net.
The Fanchon still fingers with US in .
slightly changed form. 1t used TO be a
matter OF some doubt which was the front
and which the rear Of this bonnet; but as
now worn the Marie Stuart point still re-
mains in front, while the back is shorn of
its point, being entirely straight on the
chgnon.
The Trianon, . cross between the Fan
chon and Marie Antoinette, will lie favor
te with those Who dislike to be the frst by
whom . new style is tried.
In trimmings there is great variety
Feathers are not 80 much used as they will
be later in the season. Flowers are in pro-
fusion everywhere. Many bonnets are
simply frames covered with velvet hearts
ease or daisies. There are rev designs in
flowers Of gilt and velvet, and many novel
ties in leaves and bcrries-wreaths Of leaves
Of all the varied shades Of the autumn forest
metallic berries, bronzsd, red and fire
color, with clusters Of golden wheat, grapes,
acosns and thistles of downy marabouts -
Gilt ornaments of every description are IN
high favor jet and pearl are nsed abund
antly amber has disappeared. Ribbons
are but little used as trimming, and only in
narrow widths. There are, however, some
pretty shaded and fringed ribbons very ei-
tectiyely introduced as seal Is on the new
| bonnets.
In round hats felt is the iayorite materi-
| al. Bron1ed straws are worn with Bismark
| suits. II is useless to name a hat, as each
miliner has a different name Of her own
| One pretty style has a shallow crown and a
low brim anothtr has halfhigh crown
and turned up brim. Wrcathcs of leaves
and bandeaux of shrred velvet, with rosstte
| or an aigrette at the siGe are the trimmings
WALKING DRESSES.
Short dresses for walking have become
indispensable articles in lady's wardrobe.
The double skirt, always popular in Paris,
has found rival here in single skirts with
| trimmings arranged to simulate an upper
skivt. The handsomest designs arc the
| costumes in two colors-the embroidered
| ps.ticoat of blue, green, or Bismark, with
| black pardesus over it-a combination oil
| the SSiss peasant bodice and peplum.
sAcouEs AND rALErors.
| Short paletots are worn with walking
dresses, and are variations Of last winter
styles. The mantilla palette has long lap
pets in front resembling q mantle, but the
back is straight and short. A long, loose
sacque called the Gabrielle, is worn with
suits. II reaches to the knee, and is con
fined at the wais. by a wide belt fastened
behind with a large bow and ends 4
| tigh;-fiiiIg peisse with cap ia alse
| worn.
| CalNoLiSE.
Crino,ne has grown beautifully less un
Il, 1t IS cs small as can possibly be worn
The standard skirt for ordinary toilet,
measures only two yards round the bottom
and those for ceremonous occasions only
three yards, which, OF course, affords bu
little assistance in managing train.
Under skirts, even those of fine muslin
should b. gored. Any gathers abous Ia,
| hips spoil the eiieot cf the gored dress. TIL
boulevard skirt, made. Of felt, entirely seam
less and shaped on frame, 10 an improve
ment on the full balmoral.
CLOAKs.
II is rather early to say which ofthe many
designs in cloaks will meet with the mos
favor. but it is positively known that all ar,
TO be stongeY aud looser than those of last
yesr. Ia many imported cloaks the added
length is entirely confined to the front =
The long tabs and points that reach nearly
to the floor in: front SLOPE upward in tn,
back until they barely conceal the waist. Thi.
Is another innovation which looks exceed
'ns'y grotesque now. but to which time
viii probably reconcile US. Tuited cloth.
are not 50 popular as they were last winter
and have given place to smooth surfaces or
which immense quantities Of trimmings ars
lsvished. The favorite colors are black
brown and purple; gray has lost favor
Cloth is trimmed with = heavy silk brad
varying from an eight Of an inch TO an inch
and half in width. Velvet is profuselv or
namentcd with embroidery and lace. VERY
/ - S~s-'ss' VIZ PVt SCO-tue KUtOO 0oCh
With flowing sleeves being thc genus o
which there are innumerab!e species.
|
SuxSxR.-Sumnsr, the classic and scho.
arly, went back on HE Iowa engagement,
rather snsakngly leaving the deal
people thereof entirely 10 the dark O. tt
whether they are . nation or otherwise
Not only has hs left them in torturou.
doubts on this subject, but he ha. left tn,
Lecture Societies out Of pocket. The elias
sic and scholarly never as much as intima.
ed that he would like to reimburse shes,
societies for the expense they had incurred
on the strength Of his engagement. Tn,
classic and scholarly sneak ought to be pre-
sented with bill BY esch Of his dupcs, and
should be decline payment, should bc suee
on them. The State Register handles hin
thusly:
This chronic faithlessness Of these liter
ary giants who set themselves up as travel
ing astonishers 10 becoming insufferable
and should receive the sweeping condemna
tion Of the press and the public Wher
they have reached point Of national no