Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1867-07-31

Twenty copies one year l..... -. 50 90
rlftY copies one year 10 W
Costume nnd It's sNE6raIs-A Saw
age Attaclk IOnYaFrench Fash q
iens. i 9''- 80
The London Saturday Revie,o, which ney-i
er does things by haiFes. fIaseome out with
terrible philippe against the prevailing
paragraphs:
1t can,hatdly be. denied that at the pres
ent moment ii offends grievously in three
paFticulars; inadequate for decency;
It lacks that. truthfulpess which is, and
should be, the base of all that is attractive:
in the highest degree Objectionable. for it,
notonly, aims at what is positively hateful
and metetricious, so that It is difficult now
for even the practised eye to s'distin Suish
the highAborn maiden or nnatrofl of Belgra-
via from the Anonymas who haunt the
drive and fill our streets. Ses sst - 4eioa "a
1Thfs Indictment is, it may be said, a sse=i
we're one !; but if we examine, so far as male
critics may venture to do, the costume of a,
fashionable Yomanof the day, is can hard
ly be said to be unjust The apparent OBJ
ject of modern female dress is to assimilate,
IFS wearers as nearly as lpossiblein appear
ance to women of q certain claSs-the class
y.
BILE to allude, and yet be intelligible to-
young ladies !; but all that is changed. and
the'habits and customs of the women of
the depai monde are now studied as If they
were indeed curious, but exec eptionally adj
mirable. ALSO and thus q study unseemly,
and unprofitablecsha begotten9 a spirit of
imitation which has achieved a degrading.
success. Our modest matrons meet not
ssto stare the strumpet down. but to COM,
pare-netes. to get hints and to engage in a,
Kind of friendly fiy airy short to- pay,
that homage tosvice,s and in q very diEect
way,i too, whichsvice is said formerly to-
have paid to virtue. Paint and powder
afe,,of course, the first requisites for the,
end in, view, apd these adjunct Is shayes to- be
laid on with such skill as the debutGlltey or
her toilette7maid Possesses whiehris semer
times so small as to leave their shandiwork
disgustipgly COARSE and apparenltt:w7-i d
There are pearf-powder, Violet powder,
rouge, tbistre for the eyelids. bella donna,
feFittfe eyes. white lead and black lead, yels
low dye and mineral acids for the hairL-aif
tending to the utter deStructionrdof both
hair and skin. The effect ofifhis s'diaphan-
ous'' complexion and "aurifiedn hair (we
borrow the eexpressions) In person intend
ed by nature to ybe dark, or swarthy, is
most eemical some times the white lead is
used so uiis isparingly that it has, s,quite blue
tint, which glistens till the face looks more
like deaths head anointed with phosPhor-
Gus and oil.tor theatrical purposes than the
head of, Christian gentlewoman. 1t may
be interesting to know, and we have the
information from high, because sot-distdft
fashionable authority, that the reign of
golden locks and bluenwfite .visages is
drawing to close, and that it is to be tol-
lowed by bronze complexion and blue
black hair-dq pAfracdine we presume.
When fashionable Madame has, to her own
satisfaction, painted and vanished her
face. she then proceeds, ike JeZabel, to tire
her head, and, whether she has much hair
or little,1she fixes on to the back of It
huge nest of coarse hair generally well
baked in order to free it from the parasites
ed the person of some Russian or North
German peasant girl. OF course
this gives an unnatlrally large and
heavy appearance to the cerebeflar region;
but nature is not exactly what is aimed at,
still less refinement. If this style be not
approved of, there is yet another fashion
namely, to cut the hair short in crop,
creper ii, curl it., frizzle it, bleach it, burn
itsTotherwise torture it, until it has about
as much life in it as last years hay and
then to shampoo it, to rumple i5, and tou-
sic it, until the effect is to- produce the as
pect of a mad-woman1inI one of her worst
fits This method, less troublesome and
costly than the other, may be considered
even more striking, so That it is largely
adopted BY ptImber of persons who are
rather disreputable and poor. Asit is well
known, not all of tue assinine tribe wear
asses ears, nevertheless some of these voA
taries of dress find their ears too long, or
too large, or ilEplaced, or, what comes to.
the same thing. fneonveniently placed, but,
APPETIZER or better shaped pair are easily
purchased, admirably moulded IN gutta
percha or some other plastic material; they
are delicately colored, fitted up with ear
rings and spring apparatus, and they are
then adjusted on to the head, the despised,
natural ears being of course, carefully hid
den from view. i4a h9 r. s7i''s t-ofan9 tpoi ~
= g. - s.asG sl9.'.i,.l s.l.,,.
But it is In evening costume that our wo-
men have reached the minimum of dress
and the maximum of brass. We remember
a-Eenerable old ladyiwhOse ideas of deco
rum were such that in her speech all about
the foot was ankle, and all below the chin
was chest; but now the female bosom is
less the subject of fafrevelation than the feaz
tare of an exposition, and charms that were
once reserved are now made the common
property of every locker on. A costume
which has been ilescFibe6zas consisting of
smock, a waistband, and frill seems to
exceed the bounds ofhonest liberality, and
resemble most perhaps the attire mentioned
by. Rabelais, Nothing before and nothing
behind, withisleeyes of the same" .gsq5q
NotTery long ago two gentlemen were
ever see anything like thatF' inquired one,
with :asignifeant a glance, directing the eyes
of his companion to the uncovered bust of
a.iady Immediately below. Not since
was weaned,p was the suggestive reply
We are notaware whether the speaker was
consciously OF r. nn,cconssciously g reproducing
aWen known archiepiscopal mot Though
our neighbors renotstrait-laced, so far as
bathing costume is concernedY they are less
tolerant of the nude than we are in this
highly favored land. There was lately a
story in one OF the papers that alta certain
ball a lady was requested to leave the room
because chain of wrought gold, suspended
from shoulder to shoulder, was the sole
protection which It seemed TO her we'll to
wear on her BOSOM. 10 have made the
toilet correspond throughout; the dress
should have consisted OF crinoline skirt
which,. though net SO ornamental, would
have been not less admirable and more eff
feetives OF course there are women to
whom nature has been higgardly in the
matter of roundness of form, but even
these need not despair If they cannot show
their own busts, they can show something
nearly as good.si5 20 asifHI oa5 - sg,TsHsl .
- #r7ai #agso#s odtwi S@wEnof* p - re
1t may be said that IN all this we are un-
generous and ungrateful, and that in dis
cussing the costume of women we are
touching on question which pertains to
women more than to men. !, But is that SO {
Are we not by thus exposing wbatis false
filthy,g and meretricious, seeking to lead
wfIat was once ldignifed, by the name oil
"the fair sex from course alike unbecom-
ing and rundignified to one more worthy oi
the sex and its attributes p Most men, like
to please women, and most women like tc
please men, For, as has been well said
Pour PlGire aur fana'nes IL jaat etre considers
deso honanses; ct pour etre considere des honane.
Jdut sapoir laire tzrtr fs',anes. We have q