The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-09-25
THE FASHIONS.

NSNeAieA NJ ems ana Homburg-Pat-
terms In SILK and Satin-What May be
Accomplished with Beads and Alpaca
The Flower Trimming for winter
RistOrPs Toilets for Marie AntOInette-
How Eugenie Dressed Ia the North
COnsideratiOns for CrinOIine.
PARIS, Sept. 10.-The great obstacle which
Partisan tourists complain of is the bridge at
hehl, between France and Baden. IL not only
lmpedes their view OF the free running Rhine,
but II has TO be opened before them at German
pudding, thing par icularly CALLING to the
French. Those among them who annually try
their hand at roulette on the other side of the
frontier notice the complacent smile of the
Custom-house officers when their countrymen
return with collapsed carpet-bags, (which are
scarcely looked into, and no other more useful
article of apparel in their hands than eibus.
To be plucked just when ones wings were nigh
soaring is an uncomfortable predlcament but to
be smiled at complacently afterwards adds Bit
terness to inward commune.
Notwithstanding the bridge and the Custom
House. and in defiance of smiles, the beau monde
has invaded Baden; the Duchess de Mouchy,
Mime Pilte, Baroness du Port d'Als, Comtesse
de Sagne and other lesser planets are shining
at the races which have opened the season.
Already have peremptory kilograms, shortly
Worded, expressed want common to mankind
"send money" The expression varies, truly;
some adopt poliJer form, "please tin;r or put
the case thus;-"Watch pawned" The most
startling are;-"A revolver or the needful"
Meanwhile the usual routine of watering
places is gone through. Celebrated singers per-
form vocal feats at and against each other, mar
tyrized by the applause awarded to their rivals
alternately Excellent music is also heard all
over the PARK, where bands are hidden behind
shady groves, or displayed in elegant kiosks of
carved wood work. Groups of the most taste
fully dressed women are seen everywhere, some
wandering about alone by twos and twos: these
are the p0etical, who choose "a companion
according to the color of her attire; or by skies
and sevens; these are ever surrounded by halo
OF huttering dandies, with their hair cut a Ia
Byron (short and trizzed), very bare neck,
white or fawn neckties, striped with pink or
blue.
Female attire is mostly white pique white
merino looped up over colored silk, or white
Algerian challies over delicately tinted foulard
underskirs.
At Ems and Homburg costumes are more con-
spicuous. The last novelty there is the new ring
belt ana sash, rather more complicated and ele-
CANT than practical. 1t is made of two large
rings in Etruscan gold, hung behind from the
waist, supporting third, through which two
wide sash ends flow.
Plaid silk and plaid satin are much in vogue
at HombuIg. But the most conyiVial parties
are country excursions and called picncs,
for which steel grey lawns and muslns are pre-
ferred.
On these occasions the great effort is to have
recherche toilets without the help of silk satin,
and nothing is easier much can be done with
crosscuts Of alpaca on alpaca and few beads.
Thus very inexpensive dress is made of maize
colored goats hair, with everything suite to
match, and no other trimmings than narrow
Algerian ribbon sewn down the middle Of cross
cuts placed in different patterns down the seams.
stripes Greclan squares, aud even leaves.
The flower trimming will be adopted, too,
next winter. 1t is the same as an artificial
flower only made of the material employed for
I the dress, and of velvet satin. The fuchsia
bell is a favOrite; it IS made like fringe; the
leaves and stalks are EN- 0rodered. Dahlias are
the easiest to execute. They are made of silk
petals, and sewn so as to form perfect Hover;
each petal is usually bordered round with small
black beads. 1t is great complication OF toll
and taste for dressmakers, but very lovely down
the sides and front of silk robes. Large china
asters are another convenient flower to make IN
silk.
entirely trimmed with white daisies made OF
poult; the hearts were OF yellow satin. These
daisies we're large round the bottom and de7
creased towards the waist; they were still
smaller round the sleeves, and low bodice.
Robes tend to become longer than ever be-
hind when not punched up la Marie An
toinette.
Adelina Patti is to oe the great attraction at
the Italian opera this month, and mas arrived
Just as Mime RistOri is leaving Paris. me
latter great artlste only remained here long
enough TO superintend the making OF her COS
tunes for the new drama in which she is to ap-
pear as "Maric Antolnette." Her tolets are
exquisite, and though have been favored with
view of them, it was cOndltlonally, for they
ma. not be described until they have been worn
at the first performance: l may say that they
hav been composed with authentic models in
hanl by 6rst-rate artist. Every garment Is
the aithu reproduction OF the youth, elegance
taste and education of the unfortunate Queen
A
a prisoner at the Temple. ,
Realty reminds me that ] did not describe
two If the Empress toilets when in the North.
The one she wore at the gala theatrical per
formnce was vaporous white tulle and thl
diamnds of the crown, the brilliancy OF which
was Couded by very large tulle veil, thougt
they parkled through like consultations in
MIST The ball dress the next day was outter
cup Trimmings (satin rouleauX) on white tule
Her head-dress, foliage OF diamonds AM
Although the season really is over, Paris il
very FIJI OF tourists and provlnclals, and man.
are doomed 10 asphalt By the visits OF relatives
and trends who manage to come to Paris late
lust prevent one from securing over moo
and foPst glade with gun on ore shoulder
The wrst of il is that they must have all tn
sight-eetng from the top OF COlonne, in tn
centTeof the Place Ven lone, to the sewers 9
the els underground. clever writer latel
DESCRIBED his impression when he ascenoeo IN
said Coonne to be that of au insect crawling u
"A a corksreW, and fancy the pleasure Of visitin
the Par, sewers must be comparable to that {
creepinjtbroueh an old meerschaum pipe.
stor is that Of the bridegroom that was
be, and who having been shown some OF hi
future OOsd's trousseau, asked now the ions
white, havy skirts in such piles were TO be dis
posed OF
They're petlcoats," answered the mother
"Aliee pts on four OF these every day."
Upon my word ~ exclaimed Allces bC
rothed; tut where's the cIinOllneW
Who wars crinolines no " ?n asked the tende
parent wit disdaip
And wit is the cost of one of these fille
monumentn
From ny to eighty francs, edged with lace