The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-03-09
THE FASHIONS.

Revival of Ancient Styles-The Agrippa,
and How 1t is WOrn-A Word About
Jewels, VeIvets, and Other Dress Nate
rIal-New White Hats, Etc.
PARIS, February 22.-The two words reRdis-
sdRCe (revivaD and decddence (dissolutiou) are
so forcibly pressed upon our hearing on all
sides that the two ideas are almost indstinct
and we may not be astonished to find the two
styles preside over the choice of our present
attire. The fifteenth century has fair play at
all the bats costumes, and the fall of the Roman
Empire is equally well represented. The
slashed satin of Francis | and our new
Agrippas are not the only articles which re-
sumo both epochs.
1t must not be FORGOTTEN that an Agrippa is
the new basque or bib which ladies now wear
on the front width of their narrow robes, just
below the chest. 1t l had said on the chest
should have repeated that the bib is
stomacher, but as 1t is really worn on the
stomach, people would think the denomination
unladylike. Some people are shaking their
heads while they are reading this part of my
letter-not at me, OF course, but-at the strange
ideas which Agrippas give rise to; but, after all,
is it not better to give clothes wicked names
than let them be nameless, which is the case
with our present sleeves on ball dresses
A little debate arose at the Empress last Mon
day evening reception about the false idea that
gems heighten beauty, and it was unanimously
settled that the light of pretty woman's
glance is put out" by a brilliant diadem, and
that woman's ugliness (the phrase was very
flash OF jewels. Does it ensue that the court
beauties who acceded to the fact intended TO do
away with their jewels? | think not.
At the reunion / speak Of two handsome
satin robes we've worked with the heraldic bear
ngs OF their Wearers. call this very i'll taste,
That hOrse-cloths and carriage doors should be
| emblaZoned with such emblems is all the
| heralry ] can admit of. | can even allow q
coronet over ones initials on handkerchief,
| but that only because 1t has TO be poCketed
One of the robes in question was made of
| white satin, with dented train; and the in
| sigma were EN- m0roldered on two long scarf ends
| fringed with gold.
Before leaving court news must say that the
| Empress wore a light grey satin fourreau at
the Theatre Francois last Tuesday. 1t was
| made very low, without any trimming what
! ever, but a wreath OF diamond stars shone
| above her forehead, and her neck and arms
| were encircled with several 70 Tvs of pearls.
| Coral Is very fashionable this winter, espe-
| cially pink set in small seed diamonds.
As Easter falls late, velvet will be worn till
| the middle OF April.
The coming spring costumes are to be made
| OF satin underskIrts, velvet 0Yer-tuncs, either
dented, vandyked, or scoloped, with tight
| fitting casaques, having long satin sash ends
| behind. This in black or the new shade ANA
II ranthe (bright clareD are the most elegant, and
| can be worn for visiting.
| Jet is still most heavily worked over the
| bodies of black dresses and upper part OF skirts.
| Nobs, dice, and pyramids are hung OF bead
| chain work, which set them in perpetual motion
| and produce a little noisy rattle, which is
| thought "very chic" The last word recalls a
small incident which took place at a very aristo-
/ cratic assembly in the Faubourg st. German.
| A young duchess whose perfect white shoulders
are proverbial, had spent very pleasant even
ing at the Italiens, when on rolling home in
her carriage she suddenly remembered that she
had accepted an invitation for that very same
evening at the Marqulse de P.'s, whose resi-
denCe is on the other side of the Seine.
The coachman was directed to turn back, it
being no later than midnight, the proper hour
| for receptions of the kind she attended. 1t did
| not occur to her while on the way that the hand
| breadth of bodice which graced her at the opera
would be considered heretical at stiff Marquise
de P.'s. 1t was not until she was announced
that a subdued whisper and shocked glances
reminded her of an almost total absence OF
drapery round her back. She felt very much
that she should like to shelter her neck under
| her pink reps robe, but possessing her presence
9 | of mind, she went through the ordeal of her
| hostess formal reception with becoming grace
and quietly walked up to jdrdinieTe from
which she drew forth half-a-dozen full-blOWp
roses with which she filed up vacant spaces
and added new beauty TO her faultless proper
tions.
Foreign names are given TO everything, and
il is as we'll before purchasing to inquire into
the origin of an article If 1t really is required
, to be genuine. French cAshmeres sold In Lon
/ don are sometimes French, but not always
| Scotch tartans sold in Paris are sometimes
Scotch, but often not If countries so close Il
| each other practise counterteits on this scale
, | how much more must one fear imposition will
indian texturesY real Delhi cashmere shawl
! or a real Delhi imitation cashmere, are very dii
! | ferent articles. The best way TO avoid impos
D | ton is 70 asksior the Indian mark, and II |
] willingly shown when possessed.