The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-06-29
ABOUT HATS AND BONNEYg


.he new hat which is looming in" in England,
ind which is distinguished by a low crown
md broad brim. The Spectators article is
likely to interest both men and women. for IL
contains also an elaborate defense of tile bon
net now worn -
"Is the funnel shaped hat, the hat of Europe
he distinctive mark of the West, which no
AS ID mentions without scorn, and no man
VII, Wears 1t ever dreams Of defending by any
arf ent of health, beauty, or convenience,
tftO perish? IL looks like tt, for the extra
a hary superstructure has at last been at
ted In the rational way. Artists have de-
tnced the tall hat, doctors have condemned
wits have satirized IL, quiet citizens have
lowed that it has every bad quality a head
ess can have. and still Western mankind has
Ertinaciously adhered to costume IL did not
Nbprove. The attack was too revolutionary.
bme people wanted us all to go bareheaded,
hich seemed to men accustomed TO 90 covered
possible; some TO adopt the wide-awake,
lch was condemned as vulgar; some to fall
ok on straw hat, which was inconvenient.
PA man with bare head is addressed,
ide-Rwakes are worn by grooms, straw hat
treaks when lifted properly in q bow, and alto
ther every substitute failed. At last some
MUS hit on bright idea. Leave the silk hat
"lone, but lower It's crown, and 10 the work
as done. Monthly, almost hourly, the funnel
bt declines, the brims widen, the edges turn
.p, until, II the reformers have only nerve and
1ash, we shall In twelve months be wearing
asonable head. dress--a low, stiff sombrero OF
3 covered card board, with soft interior edges,
4. In which no one could wish for a more reason
.e. or more becoming covering II will be
es and neck-far more tmportant-because it
broad brims; can be taken of for bow, be-
hse those brims are stiff; and will not heat
head because it has the single merit of the
u haiti admits of scientific ventilation.
THE MODEL HAT.
4 tShorten the silk-covered funnel to three
ehes at most, widen the brim TO at least two
v ID half turning them up little, make the
~ side edges soft with an tndia-rubber belt
te linen or paper substitute is blunder. and
.Idia-rubber only make shift till chemistry
bps the hatter-and we shall have head
.ivering acceptable at once 10 the hygeist, the
list, and the philosopher who believes equality
|,con plete without at least q POSSIBLE demo-
Ihcy of dress. There never will be any de.
fDcracy Of the kind-only look at the tailor's
Il &tnor importance. He will think there is, and
under Household Id Suffrage he is master,
Nat will mollify him, and not hurt anybody,
&Priously, no head-dress has ever been invented
+. lich will better answer its many purposes
" lighter, cheaper, cooler, or more perfect
Ifotection than the low.crowned, broad
'fimmed. well-made silk hat 1t is the head
| Tess of our great grandfathers, improved and
II, IT is not perfect yet but If the Prince of
aIes can only be kept straight and does not
4 duCe the height OF his hat more than an inch
month, and does not ask Parliament for any
Oney, 80 as to become unpo pular, we shall
IA HE hat game yet.
BoNNETs,
1T Is Just possible that the ultimate result of
nonnet movement may be equally satisfac-
y. Peoples Judgments upon the bonnet of
day are disturbed, because they will import
= 10 The controversy Ine onJ1rely irrelevant
/. oation of the most artistic method OF dress
L Wpmen's hair. Just as they thought they
IRE condemning crinoline when they were
ally discussing the morality of ankles, so
ey Bhink they are discussing bonnets when
"A pY are really abusing chignons. II the CHG
- d has anything to DO with the bonnet, argu-
d snt becomes impossible or futile; we might as
NJ discuss the glove that would best suit peo.
Who wore artificial thumbs.
Ine bonnet of the day is very good bonnet,
bnconsidered by itself, and it is only an in
dnetion to something better. 1t has, in the
wnlace, all the negative qualities. 1t does
a. de the face like "A poke. 1t is not brazen,
Fl 4 pork pie. 1t does not necessal lily surren-
tbe complexion to all the winds OF heaven,
" hat particular wind which In Britain sug-
- ta that the 'other place. must lie due east. 1t
Hnot ruin the complexion by compelling its
lrer 10 throw a red shade on pink cheeks, or
cen shade on an alabaster face, or blue
ke over creamy blonde, or an orange tint
r-rbest color of all, let the poets say what
Ejike-the glowing brunette. Itls-ask any
0niau selse-supremely comfortable; it will
|Eange itself to any rational mode OF dressing
e hair-chignons are warts not adornments
8tt admits of any color, IL will carry any veil,
can be made at any price, or of any material,
hd-that such felicity should be attainable to
usbands lit will pack in any box.
$'The bandbox, that impossible article of lug
hge which nobody would carry-even courlers
pied at it-which nobody could protect from
hred abandon, and which always had to be re-
Naced after days journey, is extinct-as ex-
net as those marvellous contrtVances made In
4 eposting days, and called imperials, and in
Meh only lady novelsts nowadays believe.
lelf arietocrat1c heroines always carry them
Railway Journeys, and somehow or other get
en- under the seat. There is not woman in
esfern Europe who is not the prettier for the
mn ct of TO day and we would wish it an eter-
~ Of duration, but that in the first place, the
lfnral man has a capacity of being bored by
mepess; and In the second, there is a. possi-
lily OF still better change.
HOODS PROPOSED.
Euppose the bonnet glides into the hood-we
oRn the hood and not the mantilla. We have
ppbts about the mantilla. The milliner coun-
mes who write on fashions say 1t is coming in
4hll but the walking costumes, but that will
W do. So are emeralds instead OF opals, but
M people will buy neither, nor mantillas
Aer. The point for the philosopher in dress
lfthe bonnet, or rather head covering which
the majority of cultivated Western women are
likely 10 wear in the street, and we see hopeful
Elgns that it may by possibility be the hood, the
only head-dress ever worn by women winch
any thickness or any material, which allows OF
bny arrangement of the hair, which requires no
Beparate packing or carriage, and which ena,
bles its wearers to be covered or uncovered
without tedious processes OF preparation.
with the hood five seconds will 1T a lady for
the available time of half the human race.
convenient, and cheap, or costly at
discretion, the hood has every artistic recon-
mendation. II frames the picture TO perfection,
with q frame of any fitting breadth or color,
and IL preserves, as no bonnet except the poke
has ever done, that distinction between indoor
and outdoor costume, that reserve In display
which, above all things, keeps up the charm OF
fofninine variety. 1t suits all compilations and
ali ages, being In fact Itself OF every age, the
gefy same hood which looks ptquaate on girl
Ionking grave and quiet on the matron OF torly-
dve No bonnet has that quality, and the
e1nnd reason why oonnets, are SO oiGen con, con,
io he ali alike. while nature insists on many
shades of meaning in them as there are years
50 "a woman's ltfe."
IMPORTANT TO INFANTs.--Miss Alice Cary has