The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-04-16

, with butterfly placed on a bouquet of leaves
The Chapeau "Andalous,N of maize colored
Grape mixed with straw, trimmed with strings
and guides of jatdniere ribbon and ornaments
OF straw. AT the back a violet echarpe of
maize tulle, worked with crystal beads; the
edge of the bonnet trimmed with ball fringe,
maize and crystal. A chapeau of ''Marquise"
of white tulle boulllOne, the edge trimmed with
three rows OF satin beads; white ribbon strings
and AZ the side a pink cameia with
bright green leaves. fancy straw bonnet,
trimmed with a wreath of wild flowers, and
ribbon 10 match with black ground, so arranged
as to fall in ends at the side and over the CHG
non. A pink satin bonnet, with very nat round
crown had the front OF pink tulle Oulllonne,
and edged with fringe OF pearl beads; at the
side q white cactus Just tinged with pink. White
ribbon strings covered with others of pink
tulle. This same tulle fell on Catalane at the
back, and was edged with pearl fringe.
Another partly OF fancy straw and partly OF
tulle, bound with white satin, the front edged
with fringe of amber beads. The ribbon,
which matched the beads, was carried across
the crown, where it was made into a fiat bow,
fastened by tuft of tea-roses, guides hanging
at the back. "Fenellan-that Is to say,
bonnet ODlong in shape-was of blue Grape
boutllonne, with rouleauX of white satin and
gold beads, and fringe of seuuins all round.
Strings OF blue ribbon, and, at the sides and
back, bows of narrow blue ribbon, with floating
ends, on each side of which was gold crescent
A New American Leader In style of Dress
Outdoor Toilets as Seen on the BOule-
vard-Mhterials, Color, and Cut-Hats
and Jackets-BOnnets, Trimmings, and
summer Straws, Etc.
PARIS March 29.-Women are now entering
on a new period of grace and elegance. Could
they not combine both with wise manage
ment of their wardrobes? The following are
few ideas which the love of my sex has inspired:
Let each choose three distinct toilets of the
newest style, and have their last seasons splen-
dor altered according to the cut now adopted.
| snail not pretend to advise three plain, mex
pensive toilets, but three of the handsomest
that can be had in Paris, and boldly begin
with what have seen at the Compagnie Lyon
naise. Every body has heard OF Ada Isaacs
Menken-she often rides down the Boulevard
and this is one of the toilets she ordered last
week. AS / have seen her wear il since, can
fully describe 1t, and | can even say what 1t
cost, for have had the bill put before me, and
Miss Menken thinks her costume cheap.
The walking dress is composed of two skirts,
a Garibaldi, loose jacket, and bonnet. The un-
derskirt Is the richest Antwerp silk; shade,
cornaline. 1t Is gored on the top; iounCe is
gathered in from the knee down to the ankle;
on this tlOunCes are gathered, q putting OF the
same material, cut diamond shape, all around
the bottom. Two large diamonds are placed on
each width of the tiOunce
Over this comes an Antwerp blue silk tunic
gOred flat in front and down behind, so As to
torn two ends, which are tied IN a loose bow
behind like towel. The shade is peculiarly
Deautltul, q porcelain blue; II is frlnged all
round with the little twisted cord fringe we
have since the fall of the first empire used for
upholstery; but 1t is getting all the fashion to
adopt it again.
The Garlbaldi is plain, and made of cornaline
silk; the loose jacket Is blue, and has large,
open, medieval sleeves, lined with blue and
tringed like the tuniC. The diamond putting
and the flounces of the underskrt come below
the over tune in front, and are seen under the
loose bow behind.
The bonnet is made OF nothing but leaves,
corresponding with the underskirt, bronzed
over, and little blue flowers peep out between
Since Miss Menken has worn this costume, just
q week, IL has been copied in all shades Mauye
and violet, green and white, blue and grey, are
by no means eccentric, nor theatrical, nor
horsey, and if worn with becoming dCport-
ment, can be adopted by every one.
l do not advise her Mazepps costume.
| return to the Boulevard des Capucines. A
second toilet there is white gaze de chdmbery,
on which velvet flowers are brOcaded, white
mauVe and purple violets in bouquets or rich
popples, most delicately tinted on pearl and
grey and third is silk muslin, as trans
parent as a butterhy's wing, on which are frag-
ments of antique broken columns, shaded from
light grey 10 sky blue. 1t is Pompeian; it is
lovely.
These toilets can be trimmed with crosscut
satin 10 match, or marabout, white jet and
crystal, or even light silk fringe, with pearl
drops.
The greatest variety is seen in the cut of over
tunics. They are dented and loOped up, drawn
back or allowed to fall like stiff drapery.
The under-petticoats and jackets must always
match.
The only Jacket that is not to match is the
Breton, winch is made OF white or scarlet, and
patched over with little bits of parti-colored
cloth and silk braid work. The black cashmere
streaming with jet is still very fashionable.
Leaves and enamelled glass flowers are the
great feature on bonnets. Some OF the prettiesJ
straws are worked with yellow beads, and triul-
med with blue; they have a low crown and
straw aigrette on the side.-N. 7. Herald.
FIRE AND eURGL AR PROOF SAFES