The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-04-25

The NEW SPRING STYLES -BONNETs--
DRESS FABRICS - -CLoAKs-SHAwLS- PARA.
soLS-NoYEITIEs IN VOGUE AND NOVELTIES
IN PRoSPECr,-The close of Lent has afforded
the fashionable world an opportunity of "com-
ing out" arrayed in all the novelties which
they have adopted for the present season. At
the regular spring opening in millinery, q
couple of weeks ago, we gave some account of
the various styles of hats and bonnets which
the autoorats of that department had decreed
up TO that date. But now that the fair devotees
OF fashion have had ample time TO subject these
styles" TO proper scrutiny, and to pass their
ueioerate opinion upon them, II may not be
amlss TO revert to the subject again. And here,
at the very outset, we find some hesitation pre-
Valllng In certain quarters, spring1ng from
rumor which comes all the way from the Tui-
leries to the effect that the leaders of fashion in
the salons of the gay capital" are engaged in
discussing the momentous question as to
whether or not they shall do away with the
bonnet altogether, and substitute in it's place n
fragment of costly lace the hair being eabo-
rately dressed to give this fantastic arrange.
ment becoming and proper effect In the alb
hence OF positive advices upon this subject, we
can do nothing more than advert TO it, and then
proceed to notice the novelties which are posi-
able.
The variety in bonnets is confined to the
shape rather than TO the material or mode Of
trimming. A favorite in the way of a "white
chip is noticeable A delicate pink flower is
worn in front of this, while the lower portion
of the crown terminates in small points, from
which dangle the obnoxious crystal pendants
whose sway, 1t seems, is not yet terminated.
There is also a "Marle Antoinetten style, made
up of white Grape, with an embroidery of white
silk cord and crystal beads upon the crown. A
double wreath of small leaves and flowers sets
off the brim, while the strings are long, and
narrow, and ornamented with wide Iulle.
There Is likewise another white chip" pattern,
which has, in the way of trimming, maize rib
bon, black lace, jet, and, now and then, a straw
leat. There have not been many new colors
introduced as yet, but one entitled Bismark is
favorably regarded by many. Where this is
employed the streamers are edged with lace,
ana 1urther ornamented with a flower on the
lelt, anu trailing vine of leaves in bronze.
This new color, however, has its decided foes,
who allege that it imparts a sallow tinge to the
complexion. AS we can conceive of no such
perverslty of taste as to bring sallowness into
fashion, the adherents of "Bismark' may not
become very numerous.
For the especial b-netit of the young girls
those who are still "too young to leave their
mothers" we imagine-some fertile genius has
which has been christened the "Agrppa." In
the centre 1t is almost wide enough to cover the
which are tied together, but there are no ties
in 'front.' For a carriage hat, white shirred
illusion, dotted with crystal pearls, and with
crystal pendants dangling from the edge, Is
popular. There are also several patterns of
white Grape hats, ornamented with Juberoses
ana black point lace or studded with amber
pendants, Amber trimming, indeed, is highly
favored, the pale, clear hue being the more
fashionable, as well as the most expensive
Opera DOnnets are made of soft, dOwny white
marabout, trimmed with metallic ornaments,
roses or lilies, and crystal drops. Less eXpen-
Sive than these are evening hats with shiTred
tulle crown, crossed with straw cord, a bandeau
OF torget-me- nOts and crystal pearls with
straw cord and taSSel falling over the right
shoulder, A still greater novelty than all the
others is an arrangement of simple peacock
feathers, which has found some adherents in
New York; but we doubt if 1T meets with any
favor III this locality.
In the matter of Veils we find new style in
the shape of a half handkerchief. These are
attached to the bonnet i'll front, and worn
thrown back over it,
In the department of dress fabrics, the inn
portatlonS have not been so large as last year;
but many of those displayed for sale are of very
rich material and neatly figured. while others
silks, brocaded with figures of insects and
miniature birds, brightly tinted and orna-
favor, but should be set oil with trimmings
which are altogether too costly to render them
there is a new material, composed entirely of
cotton, and called "velveteen," which, though
quite firm, is not too heavy to be worn at this
time of the year. There still prevails a great
variety in the cutting and trimming of dresses
The gOred dresses with skirt and body cut in
one, are passing out of fashion, and in their
has plain front and sides, with the back breadths
straight and gathered up, as in the days of
"buStles." Still another has each breadth of
the gored skirt full, so as to hang more grace
fully than the plain skirt. For evening dresses,
pearl -colored or white corded silk is used, with
&, bodice of velvet. Short walking dresses are
generally made in one skirt, although the
double skirts are still fashionable.
In the way of cloaks there are no novelties,
white or light colors being preferred for walk
ing purposes. They are cut quite Short and
trimmed according 10 the wearers preferences.
Nor are there any novelties announced in the
way OF lace shawls. Heavily embroidered
muslin shawls can be had by those who desire
them, while white lace or muslin bodies are
still popular, and likely to continue so. But
plain linen collars must be cast aside for the
ShakeSpearian points. embroidered, or edged
with Valenciennes. Parasols, to be quite fash
ionable, should be elaborately embroidered,
and covered with lace, imitation real.
Heavy fringes and stripes of bright. contrast
ing coors are also to be noticed. as we'll as en-
broideries in amber, jet, and gold. The newest
style, perhaps, is made up of satin, with con-
trasted lining, a narrow edge of white lace, and
an absence of embroidery.