The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-07-02
THE FASHIONS.


Toilets Displayed at the City OF Paris
and Imperial Balls-DiRmOnds and De-
cOratiOns-Carriage Dresses and New
Trimmings-AN Novelty I'm Head Dress
. Skirts, "OvercOats" and Jackets
sashes, Hats and Collars.
PARIS, June BIT is perfectly useless, and
have given up looking for a text wherewith to
all about the perverse extravaganza of our
times, would have looked very well and might
have impressed readers with an idea that this
fashion fetter was 10 be eremonstrative or a calm
demonstration, all against the invasion of
finery; but l have run over all the proverbs
to the nine hundred Thousand francs spent by
the good town of Paris for the bill given at the
other sovereigns in this gay capital.
Nine hundred thousand francs for a ball!
exclaim those unsuspecting members Of society
who fancy that q ball is large hall round
which people whirl, and in the centre of which
leave traces of elbows in gentlemen's ribs A
ball is no such thing at the Hotel de Vtlles and
the only Jete on record at all approaching the
Victoria's visit in 1855. Ten thousand invita-
tions were given out on Saturday, and eight
arrived in the Court of Louis XIV they stopped
for some time to look round them In complete
amusement before they y mounted 9 e the marbie 1W M
the entrance of which they were received by
the Prefect and Baroness Haussmann.
The walls round the inner courts were hung
with ivy and vine on gilt trellts work, and red
velvet hangings fringed with gold were sus-
pended between the different arches. Cascades
and water jets kept up cool atmosphere all the
evening in every saloon; but the principal
decorations were flowers, in immense profu-
sion. All the rarest exotics were placed up
winding staircases and the lofty halls.
After the Emperor and Empress had received
the ambassadors and ambassadresses the doors
of the nall were thrown open, and they entered
the gallery, in which thrones had been raised, /,
When it was over the otficial quadrille was
formed, in which none OF the reigning sove-
reigns danced, but Princess Mathilde danced In
the second, which Immediately followed.
Supper was announced at twelve, for which the
famous plate exhibited by the town OF Paris at
the Champ de Mars had been carried TO the Hotel
All the toilettes were repetitions of what has
been described at the most remarkable feteS
Diamonds can be but diamonds; satins and
tulle can but be Of the richest or downiest
white lace there was in profusion; emeralds,
rubies, and everything we deem most costly
cannot be more than scattered with prodi-
The only new styles were observed in head
dressing. The great thing was to be chten
T Which n means, IN plain EnglSn; g S3,Lna Of
novelty. The ambition to be CHEN is the ruling
idea of the day. The origin of the word arose
with the small lids called bonnets, which our
bellies wear on their noses, just as little dancing
dogs do on Italian organs. To look like one OF
these "bow-wows" and blink up thus know
clnating until to be chieTl, with frlzzles, was
quite a novelty, and has at this present moment
Our prettiest costumes, not carriage dresses,
are frilled silk skirts and open grey overcoats,
body and skirt in one, with long, wide sleeves.
much recommend white mohair with blue
silk cord trimmings, put on in the shape OF
cable and anchors round the bottom, blue
sash behind, sailors hat with blue streamers,
loose white Jacket and open sailor collar, with
an anchor on each front point 1t is lively,
light, and one of the least conspicuous OF our
walking summer seaside toilets
Space must be found for the ball at the Tuile-
ries. Eight hundred invitations alone had been
6iaffihntQ0 and these the ahOige9t
and selecJ Of all the cosmopolitan nObLesse in
Paris. The Champs Elysees, Place de la Con-
with curious spectators; but those who had
taken up their station at an early hour within
seeing the guests arrive, were bitterly disap-
pointed. Every one was turned out at O'Clock,
and every tree was Immediately illuminated
with Chinese lanterns. Electric lights bathed
the palace in ever-changing hues all night
The Czarewitch danced several times,
Prince Humbert was In fact the only young
prince who did not dance. having been so lately
distressed by the death ofthe Duchess Mathilda,
whom he was to have married. The Empress
requested Mad'lle Malvezzi to offer him a
flower in one OF the figures OF the cotillion
which, according to the code OF that dance, is
an invitation TO waltz; but the Prince said he
was sorry he could not, and kept the flower. or
course he was not Obliged to dance, but / do not
think any one envies Mad'lle Malvezzi's posi-
Epauleltes, stars, crosses shone on the men,.
for really the masculine part were all men, not
dimes sparkling with diamonds which shone
on their yaporous robes like crystal drops on
the morning haze.
The richest toilets were covered with natural
flowers; The most aristocratic robes were plain
white, and nothing is 10 becoming when worn
with the cOstliest Jewels. Nothing but jewels
were seen In the crowd, and another feature
was the new broad sash.
Our new colors are prettier by daylight than
OF an evening. BunbeRms, ash rose, and mother
or pearl blue are too soft under gas
The new Jacket has taken Arm ground, as
prORnosticated. It is a short, loose jacket, be
| hind not longer than the Waistband, and the
/ front Is q SQUARE mantilla, with long ends; the