The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1867-03-06
our SANTIAGO CORRESPONDENCE.


Country Life in wing Town-A Mi
rage : Irrigati0n - Excess of S;.Itpetre-
Sheep-Iarvcsting-C Cheap Labor = Manners
e. II = '"7' - = SANTIAGO jan 25. 1851.
Last week slipped away from the heat and dust Of
Santiago and took iamble among the hacendas on
the pampaa All who have cash to spare and some who
have not of the hot springs in the Cor
deras, Valparaiso for bathing and Irritation, and
tho family Estates where the haciendado is petty
prince aud rules his dependents with feadal rigor.
There the mineral springs Of Colna and Apoquimbo
Santiago the boiling springs OF Cauquemcs; the
wonderful medicinal springs Of Chillion, with the vol
looking down upon them and little lakes or clear
water full of fish and swarming with wild fowl There
cartridges aud pover and snpe &c, by thousands
and unfriendly warnings against trespasses In the
Coriilleras there are great numbers Of guanacas,
animal similar the Hama and hunted for its WOOL OF
which ponchos made resembling the finest SILK.
This animal is exceedingly timd and only be shot
by the hunter who goes up into the Andes, thirty or
forty leagues from civilization, and there camps the
wilderness with his dogs American res preferred
by those who devote attention the grand
Of guanaca hunting, and great discussions frequently
arise respecting the relative merits of the Sharp,
Spencer and Henry.
The had just commenced looking the
topped mountains into the quiet streets and the orange
md lemon trees dripping with dew ! sailed
from the legation my expedition TO the country
Fifteen Drops cup OF coffee and steak. at the
asylum OF Don Carlos, in Gale Es,ado, fitted my
panon and SELF for the ride and clambered into
two wheeled covered vehicle called veloche. II was
drawn by horse shafts but position rode along
side with asso attached to his saddle connecting bis
horse with the veoche bearing good share Of the
rught The quaint turnout rolled down Gale San Domin
20 and along the stony Gale Ahrmada like an anglers
cork with heavy snker, and crossing the ancient
Spanish bridge the Mapocho, which divides the city,
We were soon among the scattered dwellings, of the
poems and the gorgeous Snrdsns Of rlt and flowers.
the like OF which belong only 10 South America Tho
road is about hanircd feet wds and will admit o.
four carriages driving abreast nearly IFS wno'e length
Not stone lies the way, and the wheels roll along
smoothly upon lawn. Each side Of the highway Is
rapidly running stream, high thick wall OF dried
brick covered here and there with lowering md
wild roses. and dense barrier Of tail Iombardy popars
shat out the and make the road cool delight
fi avenue throughout the day. The houses ell OF
dried brick story high and rooted with red tiles
The windows have grstngs and the front doors
coabe, very thick aud high. Inside Is a courtyard,
around which the family apartments extend, and which
is sometimes Handsomely paved with round stones, in
terssc;ed by various designs arranged with he smaller
bones OF horses and cattle. The bones become
smooth and look very much like ivory set in the
pavement. a foreigner is struck by the absence Of
animation among the Juveniles They sit about 10 the
shade, sometimes talking in indolsnt manner. but
never engage in sports There is no ballplaylng. no
running the green, boyish shouts Of mirth, nor
snsbng indicate that youth IS jolly. The little girls
march quietly along with their dudhas as IL they
duinuhve matrcus and never dream OF snch thing
good healthy roMp with the bows. Formaiity and
d,sst implanted between The from the cradle
and The OF eight years IL LEFT alone FOR moment
with gentleman, young aged would experien &c The
Of improperly felt by mature Young
ladies' At frequent intervals along the wide and shady
road antique churches surmounted by tower with
three bells The latter arc sounded by means OF
rope attached 20 the clappers The bells remaining
stationary re doors or the churches stand Opep and
passing by We catch gmpses OF tinse cleaning In the
light OF burning tapers within the darkened sanctuary
and female figures all in black, with faces yeiled, knee
ing on the cold stone moor before the affairs and
the head in passing the church. and occasionally some
dersp old stops 10 recite her rosary and mntter
Invocation outside the door Generally the figure OF
saint is placed outside in glass case, with
ributIon box alongside for aims from passers by who
delight in sleek, well fed priests few leagues OF shady
road, gradually hng with the great quaint carte, such
Rnea Bonhcur has painted in her dscous landscapes
takes 10 the hacienda for which bound; and
We turn into the broad fields across which lutte car.
rage track winds devious way until fades from the
VISION in the dim distance Here and there pools Of
wser with white herops standing pensivsly around
them and plovers piping among The reeds Across Inc
pnin there seems to be magnificent lake; its waters
gisen in the SUM- and city with high white wallis and
haunting flags stands by its side but as approach the
beautiful picture fades away; IL Is only mirage.
Where the lake was IS only o hot PLAIN, de
reeds with few garments swinging the hedge in
wind all That left OF the city, some OF the mi
uges here wonderful Sometimes ocean seems
spread before one and often lakes.
rounded by trees and vines and meadows, where there
is only barren heath, with here and there snn,ed
We reached the hacienda Of our friend. Frederick
Beelsn formerly Secrsary Of the United States Lega
at Santiago before the mad got high enough to
scorcn things, and after "lfteen drops, settled into
dreamy sesta until the midday heat had passed; whom
hsissda wss naoaurasd The house IL b,
high walls and substantially constructed AZ 70 De
capabie OF resisting long siege ny any other THAI
military organization. Ilombardy poplars and locust
trees surround the buildng roses adorn the walls and
of sweet alfalfa Chile clover, blossoms stretch
shed OF adobes matched with Wild grass
IS The only structure for the protection Of
fence there are high walls Of mud dividing the estate
into fields Of from one hundred TO one Thousand acres
each. As u only rains for month or two during the
year. all the soil is irrigated by means OF siuccs which
conduct the water from the rivers across the country
Thus water becomes an Article or great value and y
eaiousy guarded Iron gates set in masonry with large
LOCKS shot Of the water from the main con-
dut; and stealing water, although frequently prsctised
hight = horsc stealing d IN the states once week or
ofiener sometimes once evev fortnight or nrre weeks
according 10 the supply OF water OF The terms OF me con-
tract the haccudado has water turned upon his bac
cnda, where his sbrrers direct It's course along small
sniccs into and through The fields needing irrigation
Soine portions OF the valley ei ssniiaf" are almost
worthless In consequence OF the amount Of saltpeire
IN the soil, which renders even the grass mint Tor
grazing until tho winter rains have Washed y,
when the sheep tnrncd upon il aud est y WIN
avidliy. The agricultural implements are very
simple Tho plows Of wood and Of the same fashion
as those mentioned In Scripture Oxen are tacnea 70
them BY means OF long rawhde thong, which ~ se-
cured 10 yoke bar iiod TO the oxens horns
The driver lorg pole With sharp brad in the end
OF H. aud speaks CATTLE but directs them by
punching. To stop a horse oxen, instead OF saying
"whoa, the Cheno makes a sort OF hiss between the
closed teeth like the tusb OF patient nurse IN ret
ful infant On every hacienda are two or three hun
arcd horses aud mares and as many oxen. Mares are
never hainesscd nor brdlcd, aud very wild They
used only for breeding aud thrashng grain Horses
are very cheap good saddle horse can be bought IN
the country for $40 SIS. visitor with
ono 10 considered insignificant No wagons are
used, nothing but the immense carts, drawn by SIX OF
eight oxen When more than one horse Is used before
n coach all are driven abreast; and II is not uncommon
n I've O hnrsca ado