Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1867-08-09
A GOssIPY ARTICLE FOR :LA.
-- DIES.
Modern style in Dress.

[From Belgravia for July.l
Never before, during the memory OF
.woman, and, searching back still farther
among the archives of costume OF past
ages, have such advantages been enjoyed;
with respect to dress, as are now in fuIl
force in the zenith of the date of 1867.
Plunge back suddenly fifteen years, and
make rapid resume of dress as 1t was,
taking cognizance of the disadvantages
under which our mammas and elder sisters
suffered. Skirts equal at waist and lem,
drawn up round the figure on the principle
of a curtain round shower bath.maklng
an awkward bulk round the hips, and
wagging uncomfortably against the heels
with every movement of the body; too long
to disclose the dainty foot or reveal the
graceful to,lrnure of the ankle; too short
to flow into the stately folds OF the train.
The boddice, long, straight and stiff, was
distorted as certain Indians depress and
elongate the heads of their infants, and
Ga shape" only achieved at the expense of
tight lacing, injury of the wearer's health,
and what. perhaps, she priced tar more,
her complexion. Mantles were drawn up
the neck. pulled over the arms, and cut
short and square b. hind, rendering the
shoulders high in aspect, the back broad,
and the whole figure as angular as artifi-
cial means permitted, exhibiting at the
same time to the greatest advantage,
or disadvantage, the bundles of gath
ers at the waist, rendered still more
ridiculous through extension by means
of huge pad placed beneath and
technically known as a 'sbustle." The
cunning intention of this strange ornament
was, by its size and the force of contrast.
to give apparent smallness of the waist;-
and the larger the hustle the more stylish
the wearer was considered. Bonnets,
three times the dimensions of the head, TO
the shape of which they bore no sort of re-
holf
crown, half off. The hair was arranged
sometimes with certain amount of taste,
because the outline of the head was pre-
served; but prevailing tendency existed
to bind it too close, and flatten 1t down
with bandolines and hard pomatum.
AS for our poor grandmamn1as, their
scanty skirts and low bodices-very low
bodices-and bare arms and operatic ankles
infringed sadly on propriety. We are
quite sure we should blush to see one OF
them now, and hastily throw a shawl or
cloak about her till something more could
be done. People did not regard such a
scantiness of habiliments with any uneasi-
ness when it was the fashion; but the dis
advantages personally were terrible. 1t
might be all very well for sweet sixteen to
cut her dress tres decoletee;; but when any
one was little past 40, the matter was
different. 1t might be equally suitable for
beautifully moulded arms to have no COW
ering but twenty buttoned gloves, "a style
likely to appear once more,) but the little
muscular exercise taken by the fair bellies
in society leaves great many
with slender arms, fat wrists. and
pointed elbows, passable enough
in hanging-sleeves, or coat-sleeves, or In
princess sleeves, nay, very graceful and
proper in any sleeves, are unfit to meet the
glare of the day unshrouded. No doubt
the youngest daughter tripped gracefully
enough in her scanty petticoat-it might
even have been pretty to see her twinkling
feet in the tiny silk shoes with only brown
paper soles, though she was going into
consumption in consequence of wearing
that bewildering chdussure, and here dis
ease was accelerated during the January
SHOWS and March winds and chilly autumn
evenings by the bare neck and arms that
nevertheless were so very pretty but to
her dear mamma, who was just 60 and
weighed three stone, it could by no means
be considered so suitable mode of dress
ing.
So at last we return to the fact we have
sought to establish-that never before haC
ladies so many advantages in dress, or sc
many varieties of fashion whence to sui
themselves. There are still abuses; there
are those who have the bad taste to GU
their corsages too low-and we really pity
them, since an arrangement of little ele
giant lace would look much more pretty
the large crinoline, that confouuded grace
and detormity and we still rejoice in al
English qoitre on the head known as CHG
non a great beauty, namely, well formed
head, is as much obscured by the latte
fashion, as grace of motion, that exquis
ite charm, was by the former. But ther
there is the gored skirt flowing into sucf
Incompatible elegance and dignity =
Those to whom nature has been kinC
may drape forms of beauty in strictly
plaitless garments which are the very per
fection of style, and those too stout or to-
thin, by adopting few folds, are at liberty
to drape exuberance or conceal deficiency
of outline without losing the character o
the gored skirt. We have jaunty Httl
jackets for outdoors, for petite figures; tn
tight fitting mantle for the tall, perfec
form; and the demt-ddJuste for an elegan
but less strictly turned figure; to say moth
ing of ample cloaks of mingled silk ant
lace or velvet for less youthful forms. A
| for bonnets, they are pretty enough, ant
we could only wish them larger, becaus
| they necessitate much wearing of falls
hair, less on account of natural deficiene.
than for warmth. The beautiful
outline of the bust is preserved in tn
plain bodice with the low darts; the shor
waist adds to its apparent fullness, and ha
abolished tight lacing. Only 10 years ag
| tight lacing was an absolute necessity =
stout or square figures. A thick waist wa
such crime that a yonng lady would rath
er have been dead than eyed as she wOul
have been eyed in society by other ladies
and sneered at at home. And so she screwe
herself in,and suffered, and sometimes dice
| A thick waist in those days was as great
| fault as a penchant for younger son, o
! penniless but charming barrister or artist
| with their career yet before them.