The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-07-08
THE FASHIONS.

Musltns and How MRde-The New
Shades OF COIOrs- Dress Trimming
shawls-A Fashionable Wedding Dress
--Paris "FashiOns''-A General MisceI-
1any.
PARIS, June 20.-Your fashions correspondent
has long been honestly endeavoring to ind q
worthy smIle for womankind when dressed all
IN brown aud Blsmarks 1 think II suitable 70
say they temind the contemplative OF hurried
partTidges trotting about in stuoDle, noodlng
their heads at every step and huItering siraignt
70 their rendezvous at the ExpOstlOn, WIN tnat
unmlstakable instinct OF high-toWn Dirds Whlch
leads them TO the very spot 1t is most agreeable
TO rest on. Their little cries OF surprise and
admiration when they pass by the satlns, velvets,
diamonds, and laces, which all attract attention,
are again like the communications with which
the feathery tribe honor u.s.
Words can but be poor renderlngs of some of
the good things seen by an intelligent observer
at that section OF the Champ de Mars reserved
for womans attire. Here it is that the
haughtiest peeress and the most fascin ating
comtesse like TO assemble. Some openly and
frankly admire how silk and thread can be
transformed into velvet aud lace, how Indian
pebbles become sapphres and rubies how yards
of gauze can look like curling waves of foam;
but oh satlrlsts, keep distant; for few of the
tair sex, whether they como from MOSCOW, Lis
bon, Berlin, or London, can hide the anxious
wish, the rising sigh, the deep look so express
sive OF the torture inflicted by that asPic which
turks In LADIES' bo oms, and called by analysts
"desire" "Mephistop IN Gounod's Faust
is the lmpersonaton of the covetous feelings
created IN woman by the sight of what Is unat-
tainable IN toilet Others can arrest the curve
upon their lips while contemplating all the for
hidden magnifcence displayed; but these stand
as If petrihed before the mute glass stands. It
Is my duty to describe here weekly all the
changes which fashion imposes, and may not
moralize; but If the columns of the New York
Herald are ever ahead of every other paper,
latitude Is ever allowed for serious thought
and calm remonstrance. l will, therefore, tell
all your readers that the exquisite treasures ex-
hibited have turned many woman's brain. 1t
is no longer the passive Ito be- or not TO be-" it
Is the 'tO have, or not to have"
Husbands there are who say "no wonder it
should be so," and who plead for their wIves'
weakness, arguing that the soft pearls of the
East, magnificent diamonds, chiselled iewelry,
rich tissues, marvellous embroidery, all the
cashmeres, wells, necklaces cloaks and drapery
are too costly not TO be tempting. But ii this
Is granted, their sisters and daughters should all
marry millionaires, and the equilibrium of Eu-
rope would be q less serious consideration than
that OF each individual home budget. WHAT If
the robes sho are covered with all the tints of
the butterfly and gorgeous beauty of the richest
created things, can we moi simply admire in
them the progress OF industry and the perfection
OF manufacturing processes? This query will
lead me on to so many, that, fearing lest should
positively turn lecturer, will forget to mora
llze aud simply give the state of clothing as seen
In the best circles.
Muslins have suddenly made their appearance
but they are quite on the second plane, as
Chamberys take the lead. Chamberys may, if
cool, and comfortable. These costly Cham
Dery cannot be worn on every occasion, whereas
In the heat of summer an airy oIgandie or
printed muslin graces q breakfast table as we'll
as the public walks.
1t has been serious affair to make them look
well, gored, and cut empire style. The best
plan is TO have wide hem called "talse,"
added on to the bottom circumference and
c1oss-cut folds to ornament 1t: small hounces
are also very pretty; the wide sash behind of
the same material, whether frilled or edged with
lace is quite sufficient trimming.
A kind OF Marie Antionette ichu is sometimes
made, instead of the loose jacket, for walking
costume.
All our new shades are now out; they are
EITHER very gay and bright, or what | should
call tender, partaking, in the former case, of
the gay soubrehe if colors could be personided,
and OF the Quakeress IN the latter. To make it
more readable, could as we'll say that in our
time We have the Haunting denl-fnolde in but.
terhy shape and the modest nun in subdued
keeping. 1t is true lady now is both one and
the other on the same Gay, and looks very
charming under tissues on which delicate exo-
tics, bright birds, masses of foliage, and bro
caded groups are artistically worked, or under
the faultless fitting dovetinted silks and fawns.
! must notice, much against my will, that
4 dresses are heavily covered with pdSSenlenteIte,
and that some of the outand-outers among
robes look as if they had been made by up
holstercrs not needle women. All our festoons
y are made to fall down heavily under jet and
4 bead work, crochet, gimp, and large pieces OF
shiny block glass which initiates let. The
iringes are very cumbersome also, being thick
. twisted cord, on which are strung long jet
\ tubes ending with beals.
Lace shawls, both black and white, are not
4 the fashion, but few ladies can mind wearing
\ their rich Chantillys and deep founced points.
At wedding which took place at the Made
y leine this week all the lace worn was put on
& peplum style, and Marie AntOinette capes, with
= long flowing ends behind, were made of Mech
lin or Brussels One of the prettiest was the
r much admired light salmon poult de sole, trim
4 med round the bottom with deep plait OF the
same material; a white Alencon circular was
- worn over this.
The bonnets were all fanchons with wreaths
They are put on very high on the chlgnon COMB
" which necessarily makes them come down low
on the forehead forming kind of cone OF
pyramidal affair in front. AS it is called pretty
we are Obliged to believe IL, but the peasantry
N in Wales wear their coal scuttle sun hats in the
same way, and their fashion has ever been called
barbarous, Gaelic, anything primeval.
The TACT IS there are few so-called "Par1s
~ fashlons." All are worn; every one dresses
In conformity with each particular taste; al
depends on caprice. In the same drawing-roon
are met beauties a Ia Josephine, a Ia Seuigne,
F0attque. Some do not dress at all. 1t is getting
quite polyglot combination to write fashioI
letter, and deep studies have to be gone through
or the purpose all among the Renaissance
manuscripts, the Fronde, the Regence, and the
)irectoiIe. Everything is worn-Indian mus
ins and Asiatic tissues, Chinese silks, lrist
)Oplins, Swiss work, Mechlin point, ltahaI
ace, Grecian vests and burnouses, Zouavt
jackets and Spanish toreadors, swans dow1
plumage, scars, crystal, mother of pearl, peb
bles, granite, rock-we put IT all on; we ar
proud OF every atom Of it, and we call our attlr
Paris Fashions As long as this denomination
handed round the world shall feel have
ight to discuss them; but in my heart and con
cence (for fashion writer's really have heart
IrrW A. IL. l. Tot