The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-11-12
The FASHIONS.

Royal Costumes at the Austrian Ae-
csption-scene at tho EIysee-TotIets
for the Coming Fetes-DrSss Materials
and Evening TraIns-A Ball DrssS-A
Real Novelty In Dress-An Illuminated
Walking st1ck-MAtrinOny Under Dif-
hcuItiess
PARIS, Oct. 25.-An the political, social, and
fashionable news of this week can be resumed
thus:-A panic, caused by what appeared to be
certain war with Italy and its attendant ineyi-
table consequences, much too horrible Tor
fashion letter, and when that fright was over
ioyful preparations for the reception OF the EN-
Deror of Austria and his two brothers. II is
really too bad to be alarmed out of ones senses
to-day and coaXed into good humor to-mor
row. as II our morals had gone through the
extremes of hot and cold Russian bath ever
since they were ChTlstened. Parents ought to
have them stepped in gutta-percha, which is not
only impermeable, bat elastic. Well, we have
got over it, and we are very glad that Garibaldi
did run away when poor NJ. Ratazzi (Who was
too much of an Italian one day aud too much
OF Frenchman another) lett the door open
behind him, not on purpose, of course.
wish a great many other parties may not
mention could see their way out well, but
there are SO few openings for fashion writer
in the political sphere.
But to return TO the carnival of the Emperor
Francis Joseph and the Atchdukes; no less than
four hundred thousand people focked to see
them, actuated by feelings OF sympathy and sor-
row, ETC.; no curiosity, perhaps little regret,
besides, that the wrong party had come in for
the breakages at Solferinc.I
Napoleon ILL., the Princess de Metternich lin
green satin robe and black lace shaWD, Prince
Napoleon, the Marshals and Ministers, in grand
uniform, awaited the visitors in salon dhOnneol'
at the Eastern Station. Exactly at three the
train arrived, and a few moments later all the
presentations ensued, the two emperors shaking
hands. Haydn's National Hymn struck up and
the brilliant cortege proceeded to the eight
court carriages in attendance. The Emperors
of France and Austria IN one. The Archdukes
Prince Napoleon, aud Prince Joachim Murat in
Aln InN
In the third. Prince MetterniCh (the Ambassa-
dor of Austria), who by the way, looked much
swollen, the Grand Master of the Court of
Austria, and us many eXCellenCies as could find
room in the fourth; and colonies and majors
and barons and captains, and viscounts and
aides-de camp, until there was no getting in
any more regimentals and titles anywhere
The Emperor of Austrias uniform was splen-
did; claret colored pantaloons with gold stripes
hat with scarlet feathers, white Cashmere
tunic with silver buttons, and across the grand
Gordon OF the Legion of Honor. The Archdukes
were dressed In the same uniforms.
The Empress Eugene, Imperial Prince, all the
princesses, the great Mistress of the Robes the
Governess of the Enfants de France (there is
but one enfdnt though the title is in the plural
probably because 1t looks more), the adjutants
and ladies OF honor, all advanced to welcome the
new comers to the foot OF the perTon, or grand
entrance, soon as the carriages drew up at the
Palace OF the Elysee. Fresh presentations and
weapons, gold bullion and glitterlng epaulettes;
cries of" V5uat!' outside; prancing ofhorses and
proiusion of Cent Gardes The squadron of cara
bneers looked imposing and invincibIe.
And now for one small observation which I
made when all the court had driven of to St.
Cloud, and was allowed one peep of the inte-
Iior OF the Elysee Napoleon, where the Empe-
Tor's guests will reside during their stay in
Paris Everything that was prepared for the
reception of the Sultan in the same palace has
been renewed-hangings, ornaments, etc. On
expressing my surprise at the immense outlay 1
was told that all the magnificent tapestry, car
petng, satlns, yelvets, and even the decorations
on the walls, had been replaced.
While l am writing this account the Pari-
slams are gathering together in order to witness
| the grand review, which takes place to-day at
| the Bois de Bouogne. There will be shooting
i at st. German tomorrow and banquet at the
Hotel de Vile on Monday.
\ have seen some of the toilets for these oc-
Casions.
There are no novelties, but improvements on
what has here been Already described. Violet
plush with gilt buttons and violet tafeta sashes
are quite imperial.
The trains for evening receptions are Of most
fabulous length. One of the Empress after
noon robes is black poult, worked round
aud up each side in front with satin branches,
that is, leaves of satin and the bottom of each
front width ends with a large satin hearts-ease,
having golden thread fbres which come out
II from under a central gold button in the heart.
N Flowers are thus formed of material with
Il jewelled hearts for evening attire.
III Another Of these court dresses is made OF
l velvet and is trimmed with satin oak leaf
branches. Branches of coral are also made OF
thick scarlet gimp on white satin.
A lovely ball dress worn at St. Cloud was
| white satin, trimmed with white lilac branches,
beading lace hounce round the bottom, and
over all tulle skirt spotted with crystal dew
! irops.
| Gold galoon and gold braid will be much worn
| on black silk in the centre OF ,rosscuts.
1 Three perfect caTiccatures in the shape OF
hats have been worn by three OF the greatest
ladies at Court at least by the three most in
flavor - Madame Carrette, who was Mad'lle
ABouyet the Empress Lectrice, Madame de Lour.
incl and Princess >Galitzin. The latter ever
starts most exorbltant styles. Let US hope
hat the three grey beavers Will not be adopted.
1 The streamers are now more emphaticaly de-
hroned by the Roman rings which are now
worn behind, and from which our new sashes
\ hang. Some ere made OF jet, and these, in my
| opinion, are far more suitable than the gilt
and imitation silver FIRST approved. Some are
as large rs the rings on prison chains aud bell
II pulls.
~ Scotch merlno costumes are much worn at
St. Cloud over colored petttcoats, looped up
with satin crosscuts and bows. The sashes are
made wide, of the same material, and hemmed
with cIosscuts~6r rouleauX 10 match the under
)etticoat, Thick cord and tasses are the most
appropriate trimming for English velvet cos
umes.
Blue woolen twill or serge is much liked for
lseful mourning and shopping toilettes. They
ue trimmed with coarse and broad Hmlli-
ary braid. The favorite shades are blue and
brown.
Valencias is the name of a soft wool mate
robes.
1t is whispered that the Empress will spend
some part of this winter at Hyeres, where Nj.
haussmann has engaged a villa, which, 1t is
supposed, ls for her accommodation.
ine new gentlemen's caprice is walking