The New York herald., 1867-03-21
SPRING FASHIONS.

fOor lsaanl HOW Dis memory must nave Decn taxed
and his brains racked at the contemplation Of the
travagance OF the daughters OF Zion! Look at the
alarming catalogue bravery Of the tinking
ments about their feet and their caus and their round
tires like the moon the chains and the bracelets and
tine mufers, the bonnets and the headbands and the
tablets and the earrings and the jewels the change
able suits OF apparel and the mantIes and tho wimples
and the crispng pins, the glasses and the fine
linens, and the hoods and the veils." But
what would the worthy prophet say to the
daughters OF Gotham had he been obliged
to follow them through the countless mars Of the great
metropolis during the vernal equinox Of the year OF
Lord 1867, and attempt TO describe the bewildsrng
kaleidoscope that fashion holds up her votares on
opening day. The words Of tho Western tcamster when
the tapieos Of his wagon OUT and all his vegs-
tables went rolling down HILL would probably suggest
themselves to his mind, " no expletive lin his ex-
tenslve vocabulary could do the subject Justice" The
choice the tickle and treacherous season OF the
year BY modstes for the display Of the regulation hab
ments OF the chameleon goddess Is perhaps typical OF
her character and indirect compliment her change
able nature. The clerk Of tho weather. however, for
relaxed his annual frown the opening day yes
terday, and old Sol smiled good humoredy on modstes
and their parona Opening day changeabls and
certain In regard TO date tho subject arc about
treat Of but the majority Of the leading establishments
this year selected the goth and 2ls Of March the
favorable dates to display tho latest novelties in ladies'
wardrobes These dates rather early for mantles
and dresses; hence there not such extensive dis
play Of these articles yesterday The gradual revolution
in fashion which has been going for the past few
years has. we fancy this spring reached climax for
there now marked and decided definition Of the diff
ference between the past and the present From the
flowing axpanse OF drapsry and corresponding accessories
large, high bonnets and cloaks enveloping the entire
tI,ak Hal
reached the minimum OF proportion in every
article Of dress. The most striking change
is in the form or skrts They made
very much smaller being cut nearly straight
to the figure, almost plain in 'front.' and have but
little fulness at the back. daring innovation
has been added 70 the narrow skirts, namely, short
dresses which relieve the Of the necessity
OF becoming involuntary street contractors The latter
are OF course suitable only for the street. and should
never be for ball evening dress purposes We
hope that the good OF American ladies will mako
the short dress permanent institution but fear
that tho tyranny which French taste still exercises
countrywomen will he fatal to the continuance Of
this becoming and useful style Of Dress should lose
entirely abroad Visiting, dinner and evening
dresses are made very narrow this season, with very
long and plain skirt front Most Of the sleeves
are flowing, and some have small sleeve inside. But
deerrng further remarks their assigned
place below shall commence with the conicc to
column Of Fashion that greatest triumph Of human art
the bonnet.
soSsErz
II ia singular that modistes have not yet discovered an
appropriate for the microscopic affair that
entirely snpersedes tho time-honored bonnet The
covering for the female caput present s utterly
unlike the "Leghovn lancs and hish Gothic arches'
category and tho sake or consistency they should
be ebaptsed No addition IN regard TO the size Of last
% that the ohisnon s s.ii srs 10 unaisurbsd possss
sion OF ts dominion To gvean adequate idea OF the
% o syss ana SHAPES os woa,o oe ke a"ncnng
70 that they are Sufficient 70 suit all tastes and
that there h one pecuariy about she present styles
which must render them acceptable to ALL namely that
every possible shape Of the human face divne-ong,
short. round and thin--may find something adapted 70
have the ow-crowned Bernsse; for pretty, fresh and
youthful facss the Fanchon and for stylish ladies' no
longer young. the Castilian. The same variety
may b. ssen IN the materials Lace, mounted
with very rouleaux Of silk, crape mixsd with
braids Ono as lace and worked up in ali kinds Of fan
tasc shapes Empress aud othcr varieties Of chip and
bOnnsis The baodesa i retained. : Uiile osps and
narrow brim added 10 the crown, and Inc bonnet,
ribbon Is used FOR strings which arc very long and edged
On eithor side with straw lace blonde. Straw trim
mings, Of marvellous beauty delicate design and ex-
are generally nwrought with beads, crystal jet pearl
or amber The last named Is new element In trim
come popular II not so we'll suited TO all toilets as
crystal and JET but when harmonixss with the Of
inaly beautiful. Amber beads and black lace make
handsome trimming Of black crinoline bonnetA
Sr.iy of fs.,hen shors msrspou: D ufts 'ov With III
slight mixture Of crystal Small fowsrA
such IS daisies made Of chenille. With crystal centrs
TO be Of tho early spring bonncts and
black white lace barbes in the stylish
maunor. Although the styles ana shapes Of bonnets
those most In demand OF the Zingara Marie stuart
and Marie Ansoineue patterns the various modinca-
tions Of those three styles would puzzle the
memory Of modisc; but their leading characteristics
might be the greater number Of those bonncts
broadway and the other thoroughfares whore the repre-
sentatves Of the chameleon goddess announce from
their sylish her memorable bchess were
Of the most fitting type Of that rs and dearest object
Of lsdy's hears-"a love Of bonnet" At the sstab-
very fsvorabse specimens Of ths above mentioned
article. One, named tA ngara. very handsome
gypsy N shspe hitting around thefAcs Around the
cape thrown wreath or branch supporting dasles
sprneng from the heart or each. clustered IN front
tiny blades ike grass interspersed with the forget
msno.. White narrow siresmers =. .he back scarf q
tulle and chip knot in front completed she trimming Of
this exquisite bonnet Another bonnet vas Of white
tullc with streamcrs Of the material al being stud
morning son. white iuiIs bonnet. with straw trim
.S bas sss ssnn
Madame Bsrshs's on Broadway, We observed promo
made bonnet called the vssta, which was > decided
beauty. The material was Empress chip len article Of
American nanufActureL the shape In the gypsy styfes
with the crown close 70 the forehead ard crystal fringe
sncircing complstsiy. Around the hat was thrown
wreath of nowc with opening rossbuds hax hid IN the
Eesn leaves which sluns . the stem Of the wrssth
Ansonssie with ists ppings Of white satin white and
blue nsIsboui fssshsss asd issssl q the same was
also very pretty. Near u . Marie Stuart Of drsb
chip, with delicate camela aytssicAly placed on the
crown, and green oventrngsL II was admirably
suited FOR travelling boancG the advantage that
Kmpvsss chip has over other materials y that water
proof, - ws q light MleA Marchal, Clinton placs,
also exhibited some charming specimens Of the latest
novelties IN spring bonnets handsome chip opsra
hat q the Mario Stuart style, with cape 6 white Grape
and fringe dipped with crystal cluster q lliss o. the
valley and opening rcoehuds with crystal pendants IN
'front.' and strings edged on one mds with cord snA
CRYSTAL was the admired Of ALL gypsy shaped chip
hat beside ~ named sThe Bsmarck,v shared with u
the attention Of the fAir oheorver This bonnet was
trimmed with black bandsaus of velvet and black hce
veil fastened on The side with sers Of wheat sts Of