The western Democrat. [volume] (Charlotte, N.C.) 1852-1870, 1867-09-10
WINES AND WINE DRINKING.

| W1NE0 AMI WIN II DhlN h1N6.
| An article in the last number of the Edin-
burg Review discusses learnedly and interest
ingly of the foreign wines now used in England.
Once, in "the good old times" regretted by
wine drinkers, wines were plentiful, cheap and
pure in that country, but for a century and Q
half selfimposed commercial restrictions opera
ted as very effectual barrier to the importation
of wine in its purity and to its common use
among the poorer classes, who have taken %
beer and spirits instead The approximately
free trade treaty of Mr. Golden removed many
of these restrictions, with the almost immedi-
ate result of largely increased wine importation.
In 1859 but 665,913 gallons were entered,
while last year the importations increased to 81
365, ,S02 gallons This increase was received
from France alone.
The Edinburg Review writer thoreupon con-
fdeutly looks for a return of the English peo-
pie to their old wine-drinking habits, but gives
some very imperative reasons for caution in the
use of the imported wines, His array of facts
must be particularly startling to the Sine old
English gentlemen" who are in the habit of
smacking their lips so complacently over their
''rare old port" or "choice sherry" while
scarcely any brand of foreign wine escapes daul-.
aging suspicious or rather emphatic coudemna-
:ion. 1t seems that our transatlantic cousins
hardly get any genuine port wine at all. In
fact they don't want it, and wouldn't like it if
they got it. The true Briton taste demands q
sweet, heavy, heady wine, and the Portuguese
have learned exactly how to answer the demand
They simply stop the fermentation before all
the sugar it contains is changed into alcohol
Spirits is added to give it the requisite strength.
Sherry is treated in the same way, and with the
same results. The testimony of English dip
lomatic officials residing in Portugal is to the
effect that all port wine exported for the Eng.
lish market is largely mixed with brandy, and
is composed almost quite as much of elderber-
ries as Of grapes.
Both in England and this country much
blind confidence is reposed in "London Dock
Port" This label is regarded as sort of guar.
anty of purity by many Ignorant purchasers A
knowledge of the manner IN which this wine is
prepared for the retail market may dispel this
illusion Mr. Cole, Comptroller of Customs at
these docks, among other specimens of the mix
lures of waited wines, gives the following, dated
October 16, 1860:
"Spanish wine, $50 gallons; of Fayal wine,
544 gallons; of French wines, ,492 gallons; of
III gallons, with 154 gallons of brandy, the re-
suit obtained being 1925 gallons, minus 8 gal
ions loss; and the grand result is 1888 gallons
of port wine thus manufactured"
This mixture was exported, took brief sea
voyage, aud returned as port wine. The chem
cal reader can appreciate the delicacy and health
fulness of such combination.
The sherry is no better. The writer says
that "with the exception Of the Amontillado,
Mourtlla and Manznilla wines, no pure sherry
comes to this country" This agrees with the
statement made by Mr. Tones in his lively book
on "The Champagne Country" Official Eng
lish reports establish the fact beyond dispute.
One well-informed witness testified that ''no
natural sherry comes to this country" and that
it was all "doctored" to suit perverted and
vicious English taste. Spain, Portugal and
France are able to supply pure article in sufi-
cient amount, but there is no demand for it,
If the doctoring and mixing OF heterogeneous
wines is deleterious thing for the English
stomach how much worse must be those inge-
NOUS manufactures of so-called wine, in which
there is not even an ingredient of the real ar
ticle? Yet these are produced, sold and drank
in large quantities in England and in this coun-
try. So well recognized is this Infamous busi-
ness that the London Times publishes adver-
tsenents from those who offer "to produce
fair port and sherry, by fermentation, without
a drop of the grape juice" They simply wanted
partners with capital, and undoubtedly get them.
Another process is to collect refuse wine, old
samples, heeltaps of bottles, halftasted glasses,
add little spirit and coloring matter, and the
product comes out squire old port" or sherry, as
the case may be.
Champagne, the fayorite wine both in Russia
and America, comes in for share of the wri-
ter's not over tender mercies. Even the best
that is sent to England, he says, is adulterated
with brandy to suit the taste for strong potatons.
1t is, Of all wines, the easiest to adul.erate, as
any wine may be made sparkling by the aid of
a little barley sugar, which sets up fermenta-
ton and rapidly produces carbonic gas. We
know of distinguished physician of this city,
who, by the use ola harmless admixture with
chablis, produced champagne which deceived
some Of the most experienced tasters. When.
however, the vine is poor, noxioas ingredients
become necessary for the purposes Of adultera-
ton. jersey cider is here favorite f'base" for
this sort of vile compound. Altogether, from
the results of the English writer's facts and OBJ
servations, as well as from multitude Of other
well-known facts, we are inclined to be saspici-
Gus Of all imported wines, whether they bear
the Custom House seal or not. When we have
a supply of native vines we may drink with com.
paratiye impUnity.
DIsT1LArroS OF BRANDY.-A friend writes to
us from Enfield to know if man can make
brandy for his own use, without paying a tax.
He can not The law, we believe, is as follows
A dstiller must obtain license from the proper
government officer for which he pays $40. lie
can distil so barrels under this license, but each
gallon must pay tax Of 81 This tax is high,
but then people ciU drink brandy, and those who