The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-04-24
The SUBLIME SOCIETY OE STEAKS.

west of Temple Bar The unlucky wight who
threw off this vain boast could know little of
the gastronomic topography of the metropolis.
or his knowledge must have been a light rider
and easily shaken Off; since, for more than a
century and quarter has there existed society
in the classic region of Covent Garden, formed
expressly Tor eating beefsteaks in perfection
this being the only dish of the repast and punch
the paramount accompaniment, with the occa-
sional addition OF port wine.
Clubs have been formed for objects much less
worthy than cooking and eating beefsteaks.
This was laid down with much humor and par
ticularitv by Professor Wilson, in the palmy days
of oMaga." "How many considerations" says
the oracle, "are requisite to produce a good
rump-steak as the age, the country, and the
pasture of the beef; the peculiar cut of the
rump, at least the fifth from the commence
meut the nature of the fire; the construction
and elevation OF the gTidiron; the choice of
shalot perchanCe; the masterly precision of the
oyster sauce, in which the liquid is duly fla
vo0red with the 6sh. II were better il pepper
and salt were ibterdicted from your broiling
steak; and tongs only should be used in turning
II, If LETT too long on the hre-the error of all
bad coOks--the meat VIII DE hard and julceless.
If sauce be used it should be made hot before it
is added 10 the gravy of the steak" And here
we are reminded that Cobbett, who was gene
rally not a whit more choice in his meat than in
bis words (these, by.the-way hesometime3 ate),
was very careful about tue acc0npaniments tQ a
steak He grows indignant about old horse
Tadsh which eats more like little chips than like
garden vegetable:-"So that at taverns and
eatipp.hCusPs, there frequently seems to be
rivalship on the point OF toughness between the
horse-radish and the beetsteak; and it would be
well if this Econvenient rivalshlp never dis
covered itself anywhere else.r Then, "people
who want TO enjoy q steak should eat 1T with
shalots and tarragon." Cobbett adds:-"An
orthodox clergyman once told me that he and
six others once ate some beefsteaks with shalots
and tarragon," and that they unanimously
voted that beetsteaks were never SO eaten
bpfOIp.O
The earliest club with the name of Beef.
STEAK" was iormSd in the reign of Queen Anne,
when the scieuCe of cookery had made great
strides DR.. King, in his art OF Cookery"
humbly inscribed to the Beefsteak Club, 1709
has these lines:-
"He that of honor wit, and mirth partakes
NAV be fit companion Der beejSteaks;
His name NAV be to future times enrolled
In Estcourt's book, whose gridlron's framed
with gold"
Estcourt, the actor, was made "provdore" of
the club, and for a mark of distinction wore
their badge which was a small gridiron Of gold,
hung about his neck with green silk ribbon.
Chetwood, in his History OF the Stage" l749,
tells us:-'Ths club was composed OF the chief
wits and great men of the nation" Dick
Estcourt was beloved by Steele. Who that has
read can ever forget Steeles introduction OF this
choice spirit, and the touching pathos OF his
last exit-embalmed in the pages OF the 'Spec-
tatorW Then, in No. 264, we ind letter from
Sir Roger de Coverley, ITO Mr.. Estcourt, at his
house iu Covent Garden" addressing him as
hogshead of neot port came sate;" and hoping
next term to help fill Estcourts Bumper with
our people OF the club" The Bumper" was
the tavern in Covent Garden, which Estcourt
opened, when Parnell spoke of him thus:-
"Gay Bacchus liking Estcourts wine,
noble meal bespoke u.s.
And for the guests that were to dine,
Brought Comus, Love, and Jocus."
Ned Ward, in his "Secret History of Clubs
1909 describes the "Beefsteaks," which he
Coarsey contrasts with "the refined wits of tue
Kit-Cat," and thus addresses them:-
''such strenuous lines, so cheering, SOFT and
That daily flow from your conjunctlve wit,
Proclaim the power of Beef, that noble meat.
Your tuneful songs such deep impression make
And ofsuch awful, beauteous strength partake,
Each stanza seems an OK, each line steak.
In its own gravy, till dviney good,
Turn'd all to powerful wit as soon as chewd.
To grind thy gravy out their jaws employ
O'eT heaps OfTeeking steaks express their 10y,
And sing of Beef as Homer did of Troy"
A few years later was established The Sub
lime Society OF Steaks,n who a6hOr the notion
of being thought club. The society was
founded in 1875 by John Rich, the patentee of
Covent Garden Theatre, TO whose genius we
owe the comic pantomime. He was accustomed
to arrange the comic business and construct
the models of his tricks in his private room at
Covent Garden. Here resorted men of rank,
who reli5hed the wit which hangs about the
stage, and Rich's conoquial oddities were much
enjoyed. Thther came Mordaunt Earl OF
PETERBOROUGH, the friend of Pope. and com.
memorated by Swift in the Well.remembered
lines commencing with
"Mordanto fills the trump of fame
The Christian world his death proclaim,
Ahd prints are crowded with his name.
In Journeys he outrides the posi-
sells up TIL midnight with his host.
IalKs politics, and gives the toast"
he was then advanced in years. and one da,
stayed talking with Rich about his tricks an;
aransormau4ns m and listening to his agreeable
arrived. In all these colloouies with hi, visi
tors, whatever their rank, Rich never aIecte,
MS art. The earl was quite unconscious of IN,
time, when he observed Rich snrasS,no, W.
cloth, then eoaxing his fire into a clear
CookihS name, and proceeding, with area
gravity, TO cook his own beefsteak ON his oUy
gndiron. The steak sent no a most in2itini @ Vm
incense, and my lord could not resist Pi"bj
invitation to partake of il. A further sunni
was sent Tor, and bottle or two of vino trP = ~
anelghporlng tavern prolonged the enioymen
TO late hour In the afternoon But so de,iaTta
was the gay old peer with the enteTtaim5nay I've
that, on going away, he proposed renewin,,
at the same hour and place on the So,s, us =
following. The earl then picked his ya baa ua
to his coach, which was waiting in the So Ulo
hard Oy de was punctual to his enpapemer
with Rich, and brought with him three or fo,,
friends, "men of wit and pleasure about % ' tou
and so truly festive was the MEETING tho+ !, A
proposed Saturday club should he held tnN wa
whilst the town remained full; the hill oF 70,
being restricted to beefsteaks and the beverod al
TO port wine and punch. 1t is also told tb5
Lambert, many years principal scenenainter .ut
Covent Garden Theatre, originated the cr
among the visitors to his painting-room mn ~
similar circumstances to those under VJbi,
Rich is said to have done. Possibly bo
patentee and scene-panter got up the societ
The members were afterwards accommodat
wifi @ anpcial in the thpatras