The Manitowoc pilot. [volume] (Manitowoc, Wis.) 1859-1932, 1867-11-29
1880 49, ----N ~ n -
A COSTA RIGA DUEL.
An Exciting Story.

An Exciting Story.
mo man who can possibly avoid it ever
consents to be born in Mobile, Alabama
Few persons who can avoid the necessity
Visit Costa Rica. Perhaps they are wise
IN this. Nevertheless it issa great msfor-
tune tor that country. 1t i, misfortune
because the rarity OF strangers tend 10 con-
firm an IDEA deeply implanfed in the Costa
Rlcan mind, but considered by me to be
erroneous, that their folks are the sole in
habltants OF this earth, excepting such
small wretches as drag out existence on the
SOIL OF the neighboring Republic.
Society 10 Costa Rca preteads to enol-
nous culture and vast hberty of thought.
win an air of patronlzlng encouragement
1t asks the amazed stranger whether he
lives on the London or Paris, bank of the
New ork river. Nay, when very drunk
indeed, society will quaver out sentiments
OF reckless lnhdcllty IN matters OF religion
and, shudderlng at It's own SINFUL dupiiclty,
Will declare that some heretlcS may even be
called Christians as a matter OF polteness.
For my own part l prefer the unaffected
ignorance and the honest fanaticism of
Nicaragua. Only two points can see in
this pretentfous little State: their coffee
churllsh, and the rich are-what did MIR.
Thackeray cali that class of persons he par
tculary Jisliked There is but one amuse-
ment IN Costa Rlca-gambIing. You may
gamble with dice, with cards, with fruit
stones or with fighting cocks You must
gamble somehow, or what on earth can be
done with the money ?-uness you choose
to get drunk. For this amusement Govern
ment retains the monopoly, but it setais
cheap Consequently the population Is
about equally divided in its choice and
very many combine the two pleasures. iT
LaughlEgiy read these passages from
letter In trottlng along the road alluded to.
1t is indeed a credltable work in that thrift
less region work without rival, with
out an Imitation between the frontier line of
Mexico and the ls'hmus OF Panama. At
| the same time turnpike company in New
England would be indicted for neglect of
duty II II lett any country road In such a
state. MacademlZlng Is, OF course, an I'M
known art IN that quarter of the globe, but
the merest common sense would suggest the
| advantages OF removing roots eighteen
inches high, of filing holes a foot deep,
and OF cutting down some of the trees
which block the middle passage. Yet let
US be just. If, indeed, it be found impos-
sible to construct a road broader than twice
the width OF a bullock cart, it is, of course
desirable to have some sort of barrier in
the midst to prevent oxen from straying to
their wrong side. But it might be urged
again that the species OF American bamboo
is not altogether the best material for a
hedgerow into which one is driven each in
slant by passing vehicles when we use
bamboo In China and the East there is
always ditch intervening
But such is the Pacific road, and [ rereat
that nothing like it exists between Chiapas
and Panama. 1t is neither torrent, nor a
preclpice, nor mud hole, nor the ridge of
stone wall, which are the usual routes in
Central America. 1t is broad and smooth,
except tor roots; two feet deep lies the
dust it is true, but that was of small
weight with Us after our weary tramp back
ward and forward from one gold field to an
other. SO we trOtted along merrily toward
Esparsa, under the shadow of vast trees
hung with lianas, between hedges of lace
like bamboo. Being much better mount
ed than my companions, | threaded the
crowd of bullock carts, horsemen and
shouting children at a pace they could not
support, and toward shutdown, when the
poems were unyoking their oxen in long
camps by the roadside, / found myself
quite alone. | had long, steep hill to
Climb before reaching Esparsa. The short
twilight OF the tropics settled down upon
the hills; then soft mists began to rise,
and the creatures of darkness to appear
Flat and large winged and nOiseless, like
enormous butterflies, the night hawks
tioated along the path, alighting in front
OF me. Weirdly and ghost like they took
wing again when about to be tramped
causing my mule to start backward with a
frightened snort The great goat suckers
cackled hoarsely overhead as they circled
round. Here or there a lonely fire fly
glinted among the boughs, flashing and
waning; gentle wind from the near Pa
cific siged along the hills all was still and
dark and lonely upon the road, save In the
sheltered hollows, where fires cleaned
among the black trees, and long lines of
coffee carts were drawn up beside 1t was
startling to come suddenly from the dark
ness and silence into one of these camps,
where all was bright, and noisy, and active
The women were singing or cooking, the
men drinking or feeding their oxen, or
mending HARNESS. Through them ali l
trotted on up the long hillside.
Growing the summit was small house,
or rather shanty, such as line the whole
road from Punt Arenas to San Jose !; a
public house, where the luxurious traveller
can order Bass or AllsQpp-it depends on
circumstances whether he get it or no and
the thirsty ''peon" can imbibejqst somuch
as he may please Of the Government mo
nopoly, at the price of dime drink !
That's cheaper than vitriol, you know.
| was hesitating whether to wait here or
press on to Esparsa The shed was full of
brawny Costa Ricans, white skinned and
thick bearded, and the false tones of their
voice and laughter showed that the Govern
ment had proGted considerably already. In
| a hollow by the roadside stood the loaded
carts, with fires already lighted between
them, and the stately oxen munched their
sugar can behind While | hesitated, a
wild oath ran out above til confusion, the
poems were scattered from the doorway
and tall fellow, in colored shirt and high
boots, ran up to me. .....,-.. s.. .ft I'D f-sst -
You come long in here, mister
We've been alookin' for a Christian to
drink with this two hours Now don you
think to say no! Them noes don't smell
nice. If you was the President himself,
you should stop an take drink -
l.. II. Il Il u. u IL