The Portland daily press., 1867-09-30

|
The principal openings" took place IN No,,,
York on Wednesday. We select from tbe re
port of the Evening Post such portions q.
will be likely to prove most interesting 10 opr
lady readers:
DdPoRTATIoNs AND PRICES.
| There is little change from the late sum
mer styles in materials and modes for
dress. The importations OF silks, poplins
and like fabrics are large, and splendid as
| sortment is on exhibition. In heavier ma
| terials, for winter wear, only small quantity
has as yet been imported but it is said that
large orders have been sent out, and the
goods will arrive in due season.
| STYLES.
Sacques and dresses are elaborately orna-
| mentet or embroidered, and it is predicted
that winter cloaks will be elaborately trim
med. some OF the French bonnets, however,
| nave little trimming are neat and nrettv
Gold is used in decorating bonnets but II is
a style that will probably not last: MANY Ia
dies OF apparent good taste already discard If.
| FASHIONABLE coLoRs.
Green and brown are the most fashionable
| cOlors, and will be much worn in all their
| different shades. Bismarck the golden
| brown, has been very popular in Europe for
two seasons. 1t has been favorite here
during the past season, and is still much
sought after. This is the leading shade OF
brown-the other shades of nut brown are
| "Butternut" brown, the redder shade "DustT
brown; "Egypte,' or Egyptian earth; "ieu,"
| or fire brown, and "Vesure." or the lighter fire
| brown.
But even the golden brown is ouldone by
this new "ieu" or fire color. Its name vividly
expresses its flashing, flame-lke color. ''Ve-
sure" itsslighter shade, will probably be used
| IN brilliant leaves and metallic trimmings on
bonnets. But there are not many to whom
this flaming color will be becoming. Z
There are also several different shades of
green, each distinct from the other The
shades Of light green are 'pomme, or apple
green; Chou" or cabbage green; parrot
| green, and scarab" green. Of the darker
shades are olive green, moss green and mer-
| maid.
BoNNETs.
Bronze bonnets are "the fashion," Straw
bonnets and round hats in bronze were worn
late in summer, and the color in silk and vel
vet is popular; but it is a color unbecoming
to most compilations.
A pretty hat OF royal velvet has a narrow,
raised front; its crown somewhat Fanchon
shape, and composed Of folds. The strings
are narrow and edged with blonde. A wreath
OF beautiful flowers forms the dhhdem
A purple velvet hat has a pulled front
mounted with delicate wreath of flowers
| The strings, covered with illusion, are edged
with blonde.
| A bronze color bonnet is made in reversed
pialts, with bronze and straw bands and
| blue band inside.
A maroon velvet and silk bonnet, orna-
mented with gold and jet, has a scarf of dot
ted jet, edged, and gathered into a rosette and
fastened to the back of the bonnet with
pretty ornament. The ends can be pinned
fkn pi hon, ofrr m
shoulders. A maroon band in front is sur
mounted by a wreath of black flowers, edged
with gold, with elderberries intermingled
A blue velvet style has q flat crown and
slightly raised front of white illusion, cover.
ed with black; the strings and trimming are
green. Illusion, edged with real lace crosses
the back, and is iestooned with new style
of chenille leaves in green.
The crowns Of the new bonnets are worn
Hat, and most of them have no cape. Occa-
sionally very narrow cape is seen.
Anew style OF bonnet is of green velvet
with the crown cut open and turned up; the
points fastened with green and gilt pendants
and edged with narrow black lace. A black
velvet has black lace, in the shape of a veil
falling from the back of the crown over the
neck. The bonnet is ornamented with Gilt
trimmings Another black velvet has the
lower part OF the crown cut in small points
and turned up. Rosettes of narrow watered
ribbon on the sides, the same style OF ribbon
forms the strings, and black ostrich leather
completes the bonnet. A purple velvet, band-
ed with white satin, is pretty. 1t has gold PEN
dants, and white lace strings falling over those
oil ribbon. A bonnet composed of fine bugles
has the front ornamented with three roses,
bismarck IN the centre, and pink on one
| side, yellow rose on the other. Another
Donnet - composed principally of feathers.
| MODES.
| Short dresses for walking are ginning in
| popularity; they are more worn in Europe
than formerly, Eugenie having appeared in
one. An elegant black silk was embroidered
III jet and silk, with large medallion ON each
breadth and smaller one ON the sacque to
match. A velveteen Bismarck brown has
| skirt and sacque trimmed with black silk rib
| bon with cord edge. Blue and purple and
| brown poplin suits are trimmed with satin
folds OF the same shade. A pretty mode of
trimming is, satin iold around the skirt and
depending from it scallops of poplin edged
with satin piping. The dnder skirt is some
times OF contrasting color, and when they
harmonic has pretty effect. A new style
that will be worn is the pelisse, made with
two skirts, the under one quite long. The
body is close fitting, and trimmed with plated
| folds. This will be worn later in the season.
Dresses are made with long trains; they
cannot be too long for the fashion. Evening
/
worn with them in place of belts The most
stylish ball dresses are made of silk, blue.
! hight green, mauve or -white,' with an over
| dress OF spangled tuile or lace The bodice is
low and sleeves short.
| InchidreD's clothing there is little change.
A pretty white dress, for two or three-year
old child, was gored in nine narrow pieces.
each having narrow tucks from bottom to top,
and Joined by insertion. Another, OF warmer
material, was gored in the same manner, with
double skirt, but the breadths were not tuck
| ed.
| KID GLOVES.
| The new style of kid glove is finished with
cord and taSsel, lacing on the back of the
wrist for ornament, not use. Buttons are
used to some extent for fastening gloves, but
| the new gloves are casped with studs me-
chanically fastened to one side. The varieties
OF gloves are the plain, with two buttons; long
wrists, with welt and band, fastened with
| three buttons, or with two studs; wider
band with three studs; and loDg-armed gloves
with tour studs; and longer ones with six
| Two studs take the place of three buttons
| The fashionable colors in gloves are "cuir,"
Russian gray, purple hue, French gray, q Law
| ender tint, lilac, purple lavender, amber and
| Giraffe. Perhaps the ladies who purchase Al
| exandre's gloves do not know that gentle
man who serves them is the genius who de-
| vises the improvements and designs new col
ors and styles for the retail trade He goes
| through the forest and gathers autumn leaves
of every hue, blends them, and studies the eff
feet in light and shade, and so devises new
colors. During the day he is in his place at
the counter; his evenings are spent, often to
late hour, in study, and getting up new de-
signs and colors that are forwarded to the
| manufacturer.
| SKIRTS.
The new style OF hoop is Larrow at the top,
and admirably shaped to suit the gored dress
| es, with trains, The Boulevard" is novel
| ty, and desirable for winter wear. 1t is COM
posed of wool, and felted, or made over form
like felt hats. 1t is gored without sealn is
plain at the top, and can be cleaned without
injury and with little trouble. 1t is trimmed
with box plating of the same or aapaca
braid, and is adapted to the short dress, or
the dress may be looped over it, when hand
somely embroidered. 1t is more graceful and
more serviceabe than the BalmoraI.
| INDIAN SHELL-HEAPS ON THE COAST OF
MAINE.-At the meeting of the Boston Socie-
v.NfN Na1,,r - IJkI.. -