The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1856-1888, 1867-07-06


ripping Of the waters that seemed to rise from
their dim and shadowy base. At + the trades
came fresh and free we bounded over the waves
like a scabird, and daylight found US in sight of
the lofty and rugged Dunderberg of Haupuu.
The sun rose glorious and glad over the waters.
Schools of flying fish maolo, frightened at our
ocean monster of the Neftie, SKINNED over the
waves with arrowy swiftncss. Tom Moore :
But time and tide wait for no man, neither
does the Nettie; and before O'Clock, we round
ed into the pleasant harbor of Koloa, and anchor
ed within 200 yards Of the beach, where beauti-
full little water fall was lcaping over the low
basaltic cliff into the sea.
The shore looked green and beautiful the rich
and picturesque valley Of Koloa, dotted with
houses, cane-fields, gardens, and taro patches
stretched away to the green and wood-covcred
mountains that slept in the soft sunlight in varied
pictures of beauty and grandeur.
After social breakfast with the yiciant and
conyivial Captain Kinney, landed with our
West Point baggage in a boat, between break
waters of black basalt, where we found many
interested curious natives, and warehouses
quite sufficient for the present commerce of the
country. Although horses were in great num-
bers and freely rendered to us, preferred walk
of one mile to KOloa in the fresh and ballny air
to any thing like equestrian exercise. There were
native houses, taro patches, green grass, and
rapid running streams to cnliyen the scene the
whole way.
We entered house in cool shadowy and
whispering grove of every variety of trees known
to the islands, and solaced ourselves with siesta
after our sea trip. We awoke to enjoy slvory
dish of poi and fish in native STYLE stroled around,
looked at all Koloa and its cnvrons, and prepared
for rapid ride to Waimea.
Two churches adorn KOloa, one under the
charge of our Reverend friend DR.. j. w Smith,
and the other under the Rev. Mr.. Dole. There is
also the chapel of the Roman Catholics. Neither
can pretend to any great size architectural
beauty, but they answer all the purpose of the
population. We found three stores with fair
amount of goods; one of them occupied by a
couple of courteous Englishncn, and the others
by two Cinnamon or Pakes who seem to have
taken the place of the Jews in these Islands
They hold the same relative position to Hawaii,
as the Hebrews do to San Francisco. However,
they have one advantage over the scattered chill
dren of the wanderer from Ur of the Chaldees,
they can live on rice and chopsticks.
The sugar mills were silent, the cane not being
ripe. rural quiet reigned through the place,
and prosperity seemed to have made a pause
generally for more favorable opportunity.
Showers seemed to be abundant, and the crops
were growing vigorously.
Horses are plentiful in Kooa, but generally
diminutive, debilitated, broken-down and lazy.
We found fine specimen with all these qualities
nj RI oil IN.
rickety gailop towards Wamea. The road was
fine, the whip and spur good, but our charger
made Slow slower, slowest time. 1t is very tire
some to ride ahead of ones horse, bending for
ward, pushing, squirting and animating but it is
no so when you can't get him up to your idea Of
and you become tired, jaded and list
less, and it is immaterial how animated the scenes
may be through which you passing. This
was our predicament. To the left was the great
and lonely ocean, with beautiful green gorges and
valleys making down to it with their little inlcts
Our road lay over rolling plain, carpeted with
the richest of grasses, and over which leapcd crys
tai, fcrtilizing streams to the light Y the grand
range of the Kauai central mountains, with Wai-
aliali looming far off in the distance their
rounded SUBMITS covered with the richest wood
land verdure, with all the many-colorcd hucs thar
appcrtain to the yaricgatcd Hawaiian forest but
it was all no go, we could not feel romantic-we
could moi work up any poetical enthusiasm
such dull Pegasus as we bestrOde.
Arriving at Wahiawa, the beautiful estate OF
the Hon. Duncan McBryde, enjoyed few
minutes conversation, well Il splendid view
of his premises, and passed to the house of n
native acquaintance living on the stream beyond,
W here we procured another steed, indeed comely
to look upon. He darted off in fine style, hut,
after a few hundred yards, his energy and go
subsidcd, and he pursued his way
more listess and dull than the other. The desire
10 examine the ricL and luxuriant valley of Hama
pepe alone gave patience to endure it. The
steed sullenly and doggedly pursued the even
tenor of his way, and we looked forth the
grand old mountains, the beautiful valley and the
restless sea.
We did not visit the falls this time-horse and
opportunity did not permit. We Will, therefore,
decline describing them; but we will give few
rough pen sketches of the valley.
The Hanapepe river winds out of the noun
tains through deep and PERCEPTIONS basaltc
gorge, into the head of the valley, which gradu-
allv expands towards the ocean. from few yards
wide at the foot of the gorge to half a mile wide
near the sea- The line of cultivation commences
below the gorge, and continues with
the increasing width of the valley on down to
where the waves roll back the fresh waters of the
river with broad sand beach. There We're in
rice fields wide squares of kalO; groves
Of bananas thckly scattered pill houses some of
them exhibiting comfort, cleanliness and order,
and surrounded by either useful ornamental
trees. All seemed prosperity, peace and hapIi-
ness. We rode along the lofty eastward bluff !
bounding the valley. The soil was red fcrru-
rinnus earth the rock-rihhel sides Mere of nu-