The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-05-06
TIE FASHIONS IN Paris.

LoNGCHAMPs DAY AND SETTING THE NEW STYLES
A RECLAMATION FROM NEW YoRK-JEwELs AND
EMBRoDEREs- SHORT COSTUMES AND DRESS
BooTs-GoRRD SKIRTS, ANTIQUE LAcEs, PARA
SOILS, sHAwLS, ETC.
PARIS, April l7.-This is Longchamps day in
gay Paris, a day on which the new fashions are
set for the coming season, and are driven out in
elegant open vehicles to Longchumps. My let
our new styles, though to tell the truth they
have undergone very few positive changes. We
are to have no steel underskirts, and, in fact,
with the exception Of bonnets, there is little of
a radical change.
There are a few Improvements to mention,
which shall be recorded lower down, but,
Firstly. have knotty poiut to settle with
peIsevering anonymous writer-a husband, of
course-whose letters are ever dated New York,
and which letters treat of female politics
namely, clothes. | copy few of the most ener-
getic passages, those which on the stage would
call forth applause II an actor could be found to
give them adequate rendetings. He says:-
MADAME, your fashions are the ruin of fathers
of families, children are dying of hunger,
mothers are sinking under their burdens, the
Fenians are bringing heavy calamities down
upon US, and still you fill column after column
with lalbalas tO and outlandish jargon which
no Christian can make out. Madame, your
fashions are poison; they do not KILL but they
intexicate. You are driving our wives mad"
answer in reply, 81 agree with you that the
Fenians are very inconvenient and am not at
all surprised that they are bringing calamities
home if they could have got through their trou.
bes by themselves. The fashions are food to
millions, but not poison. Seamstresses, milli-
ners, tailors, spinners, weavers, and all those
empIoyed in the manufacture OF tissues, whether
lace, silk. wool, cotton, or fax, all live on the
fashions"
return to Longchamps.
The weather is fair, and the new fashions have
had good share OF sunshine. Dresses are to
be very fat in front, and trimmed on every
seam. We are to wear wasps, gnats, dragon
flies, and beetles Gd intinuunl jewelled are
the prettest.
Embroidered materials are the great idea, l
perceive. Thus the richest silks are worked by
hand. A very lovely grey poult was embroi-
dered over with bouquets OF jasmine, which
were nothing but sprlgs on the bodice, and
spread into cluster of six or seven, with buds
towards the bottom Of the skirt.
A loose jacket to match was used in the same
way.
The bonnet was fanchon of jasmine.
The short costumes we're very gay, pink and
cerise underskirts, having plisse hounce, passe
tight sleeves of the same, light creamcolored
ioulard overskirt, and loose jacket: Pistachio-
nut green is very fashionable, trimmed with
white cord, white lace, and white jet.
There never was such display OF elegant
walking boots. All are high heeled and have
| high garters with tassels. Violet velvet boots,
with white fur border or plumage, is the newest
| mania. They are called Louis XIV Some of our
| elegantes walk In shoes, but they are of the
richest description, the heels being covered with
4
The plouescat, or Breton jacket, is mostly
! white, worked with chine silks.
The most sensational toilets to-day were very
| light gored skirts, with the medieval colored
satin tight fitting basque bodice. The front
basque is cut on the cross, is oval, and Duttoned
| on the sides. Isabel of Bavaria is represented
IN one of these in all the historical painting gal.
leries. There is puff on nearly all the tight
| fitting satin sleeves, which is sewn in the arm
hole a la Marie Stuart.
Striped silks are still very much worn though
chimes are the very latest fashion.
The antique spendor of rich lace Is reviving.
Parasols' handles are very heavy; they are
mostly made of cut ivory, cot oak, and tortoise
shell; they are covered with Chantilly or Allen
con. .
Lent has been observed with great solemnity
at court and there are no parties or balls on
record this week. bal costume is 70 be given
in honor of the young Prince at General DE
Fleury's after Easter.
few marriages are announced in the very
! tip-top regions of high life.
| TWilled foulard silks are as lovely as satin
! Black cashmere shawls are richly worked anu
! trimmed with lace, as also black SILK Pepiuul
| jackets.