The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1867-11-14

-~>~-~--~~-~--~--~~~~
0peRins u tho seassu-The Modistes and
Their Winter Nsveisies-A stroll Throash
ehe Realms Of FashieD-The Latest Styles Of
BwnBets, CIonk., Dress Goods, shawIss BIZ
tsuterie, xc.-Pranks Of the Chameleon
Goddess.
ladies were subject or science in regard 70 dress
alone and IT, IKE the stars flowers. shells and minerals
they we're to be Characterised and described by their
appearance and tho essential Of soul and
nature what complicated and perplexing problem In
natural history womanki0d would be English aud
French history presents curious examples OF the ex-
tavasances OF fashion. Sleeves and wells long that
shey lcoped up TO keep them from trailing tho
ground, turban lofty nitro with ribbons Coating
from 1t like tho steamers OF ships Indepsn.
dence Day, farthngaes and huge muf green hose and
patches, tub hoops aud bag like robes wide the waist
ana extremely narrow at the bottom OF the
skirt; houpced figured. duplicated, slashed ana
folded trains and NANTES; coinares representing
castles pyramds, ships, canopies, butterflies,
flowers and other complicated AFFAIRS are a few OF the
strange costumes that adorned OF the disiiu-
grished bellies OF tho French and English courts But
In all these changes there is very remarkable fes
tnre-the fame fashions return II stated intervals.
Certain forms OF dress adopted, become the rage
are then voted nuisance. discarded and finally
come into vogue azan. comets grow from microscopic
and become smaller than again. In fact with this
important article OF female attire there is constant
crescendo and dimisuendo movement going on. They
are looming up again this winter. There ID also pro-
gressive and rerograde movement In the manner OF
wearing bonnets. At time they scarcely held
the back Of the head and require additional strings
% keep them from falling on behind Again they are
pushed forward By the obirusvc chienon until they
threaten TO demosh che pretty little noses
o. their fair wcarer. Dresses swell and coll
Iapse ike balloons, according 70 the within OF the
ncke dei.y and coaks loose tight fitting short or
rdsuously long from the same source Dame Fashion
mas long held her headquarers Paris and her minis
s have thronged there at the egnning OF each sea-
con to receive her commands Now, however, some
people say that she has 70 Germany. and that
Erda's nighcap GrecAsns short dress Is en- regse
A fierce controversy has been going in Europe 10
she rgbtful whereabouts Of this whimsical female
deity. The consequence Is that many OF modisss
and their claim that she Is in New York. and
they originate styles Of their own. whatover tho
merits OF the case be, feeling OF Independence in
hton has been engendered BY It. Tho ou.rs vasaries
OF the denimonds longer reproduced rs models
With their cxaTgerations and coarseness bu, merely
serve MS sources from which occasionally good idea or
suggestion may be obtained This Is the course adopted
BY Of the most fashionable and reliable modstea
longer with aest fashions from Paris" that often give
the exceptions and not the rule. OF the best society.
Opening day in any is very vague and unccr.
tain period The modiscs act independently OF each
other In the matter and few Of them ok upon the Same
day This week. however, is about the Arst which all
NE latest winter STYLES have been prepared public
specon at the leading esablshments and may be con-
ssred general opening the season Yesterday
Shs ladies ont strong force, making reconnos-
nces on the bswderng display OF fashion At the lead
ING establishments. Men made way for than and
rendered the greater part Of tho sidewalk 70 them Here
group citlcised SNOWY suit placed on . dummy and
swrlsd around the inoneusive wearer until IL wide
staring eyes seemed 10 rebuke their treatment There
- love Of bonnst" was the subject Of chorus Of
psesty little exclsma.ions Of delight and sumptuous
evening robe unanimously voted sTcvely." The
nevetes In winter fashions this season q
1sf a. shape and trimmings are concerned bus seems
aaost an impossbllity 10 ind anything new IN material
great many OF the designs are rsvivals,
and some unlike ANYTHING that IL in
me heavens above the earth in the waters
under the earth There Is perfec. epidemic Of orna-
msas and nselled display, and II sometimes diculs
p discover tho material amid the bewildsrng top
DRESSING Of lace, jet gold and embroidery. But to
begin at the beginning 70 that marvel OF the
miiliner's art, the bonnet It tho apex tho crino.
lInsd pyramid the cornce to the pillar Of fAshion and
svsr claims lady's fnt attention.
BoNyEIA
they have not grown much ss yet although they are
q present largo enough be without tho ad Of
microscope. As regards shapcs their Is legion,
and two alike. II would require dictionary to
chronicle all the Of the styles Some
called after historical personages after opera and
dramatic arstcs, and others 'chnstsnod" by old.
nsddlssome saissmsn. The animal. vegetable and
~tsa hv H. fc~
names and might say materials also for the winter
hats bonnetS The Fsnchon still holds s own with
sndminshed popularity.
A very handsome Fanchon was exhibited as NINE.
nailines establishment Broadway. Il was
made OF blue tulie raised bands OF velvet Of the
same color coronet Of white fsur de Ill., with rose
Nesting at the side, completed this elegant little hat
dadsmed Charlotte corday had pus OF black and
bandeau OF the same decorated with leaves Of gold.
me trimming . fall Of black lace thrown tho
crown, and Bacchants chspet branch OF green
velvet. With clusters Of gold and purple grapes.
At Nile. Natalie Tlman's Ninth street. q charming
round hat OF quite a novel shape, was admired The
material royal blue velvet and the trimming black
MOO and bronzed flowers from which depended heavy
drops white marabout hat OF nearly similar shape
had gold corded band, large marsbout tuft and .
sunnower In while and gold. II was lined with rich
white satin. One OF the diadcm fronted bonnes OF
white corded velvet and had hofa bandeau and
tsnsve fall Of while lace. The back OF the diadem
trimmed with marabouL Mgpon Of greco velvet had
the very small dadem and long wreath Ct flowers that
traIled behind Flowers very much bonnets
thw winter and lace strings have become quite Ia mode
A beautiful evening bat, composed OF feather dsiscs
wnh narabout strings and passion flower OF scarlet
velvet was exhibited 81 Hgeins', Broadway Another
Was OF black veyet, and behind It's diadem the most
Delicate TUFTS Of the malard insersd One opera
hai was entirely composed or ostrich feathers and
frnged with puned feathers jet flower dropped on
the side and bandeau Of orange velvet and shaded
nbbon and lace strings adorned is In front A black
velvet bonnet ~as trimmed with "a In, and humminr
bird strangely nestled amid of wheat behind the
haDdeau. Tho latter a double one OF corn coIored
velvet and JET and dusky butterfly caught tho f,li
vel behind. Mario Anioinotte OF pink velvet with
strings OF the same. trimmed in trout with q pearl
insertion edgd with fringe OF pink ostrich feathers,