New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1867-10-24
CHILL.
EARTHQUAKE AT vALPARAIsO-THE RAILROAD
FROM VALPARAISO TO SANTIAGO-GRAh-
DEUR OF THE sCENERY-THE VALLEY OF
SANTIAGo-THE CITY ITsELF-THE BONE
YARD--BURNING THE DEAD.

The ineffable slowness which appears to dis
tngush the transaction Of all business in South America
frequently sets me TO wondering how little must be ac
cOmplished in lifetime here. contrasted with the rail-
road rapidity Of existence in my own land day ~
home at any rate contains real items OF human ex
stence than do ten days in Chill The atmosphere Is
bright and bracng one and should not affect foreigners
with that azness which we may forgive in the natives as
sickness inherited from SPAIN And yet tho eshdngero
requires but few OF residence to catch the ce
ton, and. nervous rs am often feel 1t stealing uac
cOuntaby myself with the subtety OF an ehehahE
ment ,,. -
which frequently arouses the wild energy when terIya
can alone induce. refer 10 earthquakes. The people
hop about considerably In the event OF bOmDaiden
their coast cities and regard revolution Win I'VE
illness Of feelings; but the fearful cry OF IemDOr te
bor" accompanied by that neutrality-suspicious. ul,ei
of the solid earth beneath ones feet creates
raj excitement which almost depryes them OF reaseh An
earthquake is something which no one ever gets aecs
toned 10. and Americans who have lived long IN lhc
country display quite much apprehension as tho M
tiyes themselves After experiencing numerous SHOCKS
or more or less power must say that 40 Ilut
ary admire them myself There appears to be no otner
refuge In the UNIVERSE when mother earth Is Isete
and, though regarded them lightly at first nave az ast
come 10 have holy horror Of La trcnblenent de IA
terra which sometimes dstuTbs my thoughts by day ana
The first one experienced was after my landing
at Valparaiso. 1t was the gray Of morning when was
came aware OF a slight quiyerng OF the walls OF my
chamber. which ratified the window sharply, ana en-
dured for about four seconds. Ascnhng the clreuin
stances 20 the wind, which blowing smartly at tue
time. thought nothing Of il, until heard c0mm0tloh
in the the street. accompanied by the opening and slam
ming O Of doors. and terrified cries OF Temhor Terra
motel" cThe earth moves!g Another shock stronger
and more alarming than the frat occurred IA leaped
from my bed and | gained the Tindow IN time
to see the street thronged with. frightened
their nigtcothcs when another and s strong shock
came which lasted fully thirty seconds stopped my Hateh
(as afcTward learned caused one large stOlehOise
nearly opposite to sway perceptby and through the dim
halfshad0ws Of the early morn could zee The masls OF
vessels rock spasmOdicaily, while the long seas"cl
which always rolls in Valparaiso Bay was heard To burst
upon tho beach with redoublcd roar No special Jam
age having resulted the crowds IN the street quickly re-
tired 10 their abOdes II the third shock Ia harmless the
terror of the people Immediately abaes for hty say
that there never more than three and seldom less
Ian two The ease OF the destruction of Mendoza, two
three years ago. the only exception to the rule that
has ever been known Here single tSiI5nle osh au
the city in ruins ard destroyed 30 out OF 100 oI s nh
iants neither was u nreceded ~ any %il VAN , wa
Chilli have been preceded by long low, rumbing cub
erranean sound some eat resembling distant thunder
snndpy s,STted fIom Valparaiso for Santiago by rail
This derlui faiIoan YLich has already done somnch
markable exhibition OF the TRIUMPH Of engineering skill
over the apparently insuTmOuutabc obstacles with which
the giIutcss Nature seeks 10 hNart the onward pain o
human progress. The most difficult portion OF tle Bait.
more ana ONO kalIoad' VIA as hi{ Ne, Is uNalHsh
and insignicant compared To this After the valleys
arc left behind, the work, even contemplated from tho
window Of the swiftspceding car appears grand and
majestic The breadth OF the road for leagues literally
chseled from the PERCEPTIONS muuutanslde OF marble;
flashing, tumblnS torrents OF snow-water are crossed
and reCrossed on substantial structures OF masonry anu
irOn valleys and wild cnyons bndFcd; bills oi bare
tuuueled through their aud tie NlNllNg
cleaning. ringing road oil IRON tOrtnOusy, Dnt surely
pcrcos The Wild dees and gorges and climbs the rugged
rock startling the lion from ms lair and the condor from
lis aerial haunt a. though the f'E snOWp'ahH oI ho
Andes It's gOalan abiding and useful monument o
the perseverance and ingenuity o. the nineteenth cen
tuTy OF the universal Yankee nation; for an American
brain conceived II all and American mechanic sur
mounted it, grandest difficulties
/ think that TINS ROAD ana us wonccriul scenery arc
worthy Of n somewhat more detailed description. One
object especially interesting 10 me- Is 70 be seen from the
cars before leaving the outskirts of Valparaiso refer
To the Maiadero" where all Of the saugfcring for the
markets Of Valparaiso is carried on IL IL nodded after
the abattoirs OF Paris. The building and Enclosures
(which had hastily examined during my stay IN Napa
IaOl cOmmOdous, neat, and cicunly and their man
agcment wl Opine compare very fayOu.by with that
OF the abattOr which las recently been established IN
the vicinity Of Ncw-iOrk.
Surrounded by high aud rather barren hillswhlch
said to strongly resemble the scenery OF Japan partially
over grown with ~crubrecs ana sort Of hardy cac The
road has level course 10 Labina del Mar charming
little station much resorcd 90 by Nalparaisaus pleas
ant Sundays. The his thickon until you reach Qulota,
Quite large town. and at time am told. the capital
of the province just before reaching QuliOa the
pass through the handsome hacienda Of sengr Don han
dc Dios COTrea which con-i,t- Of Is,ol, 'vic! @
ing many thousand acres and giving employment ana
subsistence TO one thousand pecns hiie u1ooea
horses and cattle roam and browse ~ WIZ over inc -
lands The valley OF Qulota Itself Is mueh larger ana OF
SURPRISING beauty Seen IRON ne t ne rg,ed v,
OF the ears. ~ they climb ana toi along ,ho iss WI
which forms its northern boundary, IL tpioaaS Dc.
there IL one sfanpoint on the railroad however
where IL lies mapke at the feet oi me ohaet WIN we
world as distinctly marked rs though su1,u lIoh pal
loon. The hat, rich acres are OF emerald green l9bf
avenues or grufrIfl NNNlNE lOuNAlg Holils
stretch away; loWbuilt roso-cinbOWcred qululL' OF
country houses hero and there seen upon the banks
of the slow. bright stream which threads The center Ike
pure and Sl'cry principle OF LIE; numbers OF snowy
sheep. aud gentle mideycd oxen Craze peacefully over
the bright and mellow mcads and IL seems that mans
existence IN tins heaven on carth mgst no" forever Oh al
a stream Of liquid joys, untrammced by care.
The valley OF Quiilota continues almost 10 the hrst
crossing OF the Aconcagua River, where the railroad
percos the widest mountain scenery. The ascending
grade the stcepest ever saw; three tunnels oil con-
siderable length are passed through IN SWt succession
and the river II crossed times In tho space OF 10
miles Many Of Tie bridges are reared an immense hight
above the stream, ana one OF hcm-I ihhk the last one
going eastwaidis noble structure Of iron which would
excite the admiration Of experienced engineers AT Ocoa,
where the railroad quits the course OF the stream Tor
sOuthery COURSE, the heretofore apparently UNI
broken ridges spread of anke either side snd look
which way you wl-so that you look not westefly-and
you tho far peaks Of the Cordcrs lifting their
bald forehcads to tie clouds, with cdenkc valleys and
the white clusters OF small towns lying dreamily In the
warm sunlight 40 their feet.
Laai the halfway station. il pleasant little place
and here at all the stations Of considerable size the
ears are surrounded by thrOngs Of beggaTs gOOdnaured
but ragged children vending fruit and numbers OF very
pretty young girls who thr0ng the platform In the hope
Of recognizing friend on the train. In respect To the
little fruit merchants, each station appears 10 have its
particular articles for sale by sort OF right which is not
questioned by the vendors at other stations. Thus La
Vna del Mar saw little else offered than flowers aud par
TALLY ripe plums at Lmachc fresh cheeses the pre-
vaIling feature with hard boiled eggs and native vino
and beer; QuillOa the only place whore small fresh
water fish and readycOOked canarOnes he latter being
large cray fish very excellent food exposed
for sale at Lailla where the passengers permitted
10 recuperate the inner with food mostly animal,
We had splendid fruit, consisting mainly OF the
pear, which attains great perfection In Chill
the chiriinoya green, irreparly formed fruit,
slightly resembling the banana In taste and, next to the
orange and the ganadila the finest fruit have tasted
since left Newly Ork and baskets ofsrawbercs, which,
certainly in point of SIZE astonishing They sell
dom smaller than green walnut, and saw one that
would undoubtedly, weigh five ouncc, though they lack
that peculiarly juicy delicate flavor which distinguishes
our strawberry at home and mucI dryer the larger
containing sort Of pith which does not enhance
the taste.
The Valley OF Lalla Ia also very beautiful and ut Pal
pacO you enter the grand valley Of Santiago which may
he OF Chill the line
Of $40 south latitude. Chill great wheat country and
vast fields of appear either side assu very gradually
descend the railroad grade sOutcastwary In point Of
construction alone the railroad appears TO be very excel
lent one being very smoothly built aud througha pleasant
80 III. A.la