New-York tribune., 1867-05-17
RANDOM LETTERS. No. III.
CORRECTED IMPRESSIONS or NUREMBERG AND MU-
MICH.

many. which seemed doubly unnatural after one
glimpse Of Spring in England we left Gotha three
days ago hoping TO find better season in the South
but am bound to say that We have not yet been
successful.
There are few highways Of travel in Germany with
which have not been familiar for years, yet each
renewed visit offers me fresh points OF observation
aud comparison. Perhaps the change is rather III
myself than in the things see derived from those
reflections of external things which at last convince
IT'S either that we have gained in experience OF IoSV
something of the unquestiOnng admiration OI Nou'u'
When compare my first journey through Europe
with the present seem TO behold ii across an III
meuse gulf of time. 1t is not alone the malerIu
changes which have been effected III these OLD anus'
great rs such changes have been; other and moro
picturesoue experiences have neutralized much OF
the first wonderful difference between the two Con-
tinents The two atoospheres of reality and ro-
nance. which were as sharply divided the weather
on opposite sides of mountain chain have melted
together what has been gained at home mas been
lost abroad to restore the equilibrium
Nevertheless. am more than convinced that
the best pleasures and most lasting advantages OF
Gravel belong not to the first or second out TO 'he
fourth or fifth visit TO foreign lands ii one misses
the enthusiasm, the exhilaratiOn, the capacity Tor
tboughIess enjoyment and the delightful ignorance
of youth on the other hand has less of unccr-
y
closer more intelligent Appreciation forwdcr and
more fruitful field of interest and cultivated pef-
cepton of beauty which is gratihed at every turi'
Let the gears 20 BY unlamented! They bring more
than they take away
prefer the tender, familiar interest which comes
from old acquaintance TO the pleasant shock of love
at frat sight in this matter of travel Nhat IL some
celestial quality has vanished from the azure oil tue
sIxy or the fluid gold Of the sunshine What It the
o1Ir no IN fO
Of our American rain-dove ?-if behold the village |
gardens with critical eye, and measure the growth !
VI cabbages instead of adOrning them with the uyS-
terry of the rose7 1t is weak afectation TO regret
the illusions perdues There is enough in Europe, that
-brush and whitewash and deodOrize IL as we may !
retains the full flavor and character OF the Past
there are influences enriched by centuries Of trans
mission. which we cannot escape. Qmte sufficient !
remains to satisfy any who has learned where the
true work of the world lies.
did not mean to say 50 much when hogan this |
preude: but, not having visited Nuremberg for TO- |
nor Munich for IA years, am struck with the anti
quated nature of the impressions which have re- |
maned in my mind during these periods. The former
pace is casket of medieval memories, and in this
respect it has not changed. Nowhere IN Germany |
are the men and manners of four centuries ago !
brought 80 near to To certain extent. there
fore the effect remains the Perhaps the chief
difference is that instead of delivering ourselves up
10 sense of enjoyment which is partly real and !
partly imaginary-for we never diveSt ourselves
wholly of the magnetism exercised by celebrated |
naneewe learn, at last TO take the legaces of the
past eOoly, TO inquire test and scrutluize TO
separate what was excellent for the age aud cOnd-
iiOns from what Is intTnScay good ana beautiful IN
Thus while was formerly impressed i'm Nurcm- |
berg with the memories of Drer Fischer Kraft and |
Hans Sachs see now that Iny admiration of their !
works rather conventional than real. One needs
technical knowledge OF architecture to 1eel the
beauty of the old Church of ST. Lawrence. the won
deriu pix of Adam Kraft, the Gothic fountain IN
the market-place OF Nuremberg yet there IS much much
that. at first sight, seems only gTOteSque III early
German art. At one time supposed that the masters
in this school were chiefly valued on account OF the
interest which men feel III any earnest struggle tOr
expression. heweveT uncouth its forms
As we stood before Albert DuTcTs house. guessed
the location of his studio correctly. from the position
of the windows There are few good pictures from
his hand, in Nuremberg but the Plnakothek here
possesses some of his master pieces Yet. except t1o
iour Apostles, wherein the treatment is large simple
and noble they have the character OF all Stl pIln
ble everywhere but it is in the pure realism OF the
pictures that the secret of their value is TO be sought
onld tbev possess the same interest if each figure
we're not either the exact reproduction of living
model at least most thorough ana patent StudY
fherefrOm9 l think not. Direr bad an unusual !
sense both of color and FORM yet the faithful repre-
sentatOn of the individual Is his great merit as an
artist There is the suggestion OF personal history
in his cOmmODest head, We forget the absurdity of
- FrancOnaD Palestine. and apostles of German peas
ant bOOd-we even do not remember the salient |
and harmony OF tle ltdllln SCHOOL. W udb /
fans Won Culmbach, Durers scholar has gained in /
those latter qualities. he has lost in the character and
snggestiveness of his master.
Here is just one Of those questions which artists |
will discuss fOTeyer-the point at which the repre-
sentatOn of bare reality should cease and the ideal
element be allowed to enter.
How long mans personality survives The sad,
stately, almost ChTlst-ike head OF Dier hanonizeS
with we know of his history Yet thali little
is enough TO inspire with more than All abstract
admiration we guess at the movements of the large,
tender heart in that manly breast. Something of
this personal interest attaches TO all the Nuremberg
neghbOrS still creates an atmosphere around the
works they have left.
Behind the chapel Of ST. Maurice, there is a little
aif-buding nestled between two of the butTcsSes,
IN the manner of the Middle Ages, when such cOigns
of vantage were used by the common people as our
caves are used by the swallows. 1Ou would pass
this house without a second glanGe-a niue gilded
hell above the door indicates nothing. Yet III this
old low cTamped, black shed, roasted sausages have
been served daily at noon, for 400 years! ltlthor
came all the Nuremberg artists and architects, and
within the smoky chamber (hardly upon the same
benchesl which Is persons would crowd, sat Dgirer
and Kraft and Sachs, precisely as We sat Two DAYS
The entrance is through the Kitchen, which ~
about SIX feet square; the people inside greeted
cordially, and we were speedily served with the IA
nous sausages with saurlTaut black bread and
be6T. "A good appetizer said the walter-bOy, plump
ing before us a huge SedL with the initials "A. X"
adam Kraft upon tho lid -Four of Us ate, drank
The consumption of sausages amounts at present 10
1900 per day. IL certainly brings nearer to the
old masters to eat and drink precisely where and
what they did and so hope this conservative nook
may hong be spared by the progressive years.
But alas alas some of the people of this good old
city becoming impatient Of their walls and moatS
and would fain level fill up, and let the Nineteenth l.
Century into the Fifteenth. Anywhere else hut here
Let us have one picture unchanged-One nest where
the deCTept bird of Fable may brood for the delight
-. Arao fhapx fIaar 1nu fbs.