The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1867-07-30
A GOSS1PY ARTICLE FOR LADIES.


From BelgrdUid for JUig
Never before, during the memory of woman,
and, searching back still further among the
archives of costume of past ages, have such
advantages been enjoyed with respect to dress
as are now in full force in the zenith of the
date of 1867. Plunge back suddenly fifteen
years, and make rapid resume of dress as it
was, taking cognizance of the disadvantages
under which our mammas and elder sisters
suffered. Skirts equal at waist and hem,
drawn up rouud the figure on the principle of
curtain round matchmaking an
awkward bulk about the hips, and wagging
uncomfortably against the heels with every
movement of the body; too long to disclose the
dainty foot or reveal the graceful toWnure of
the ankle; too short to flow into the stately
folds of the train. The bodice, long, straight,
and stiff, was distorted as certain Indians
depress and elongate the heads of their infants,
and 'a shape' only achieved at the expense
of tight lacing the injury of the wearers
health, and what, perhaps she priced far
more, her complexion. Nantes were drawn
up at the neck, pulled over the arms, and cut
short and square behind rendering the shoul-
ders high in aspect, the back broad, and the
whole figure as angular as artificial means
permitted exhibiting at the same time to the
greatest advantage, or disadvantage, the bun
dies of gathers at the waist, rendered still
more ridiculous through extension by means
of huge pad placed beneath, and technically
known as "bustle." The cunning intention
of this strange ornament was, by its size and
the force of contrast, to give apparent small
ness to the waist; and the larger the hustle
the more stylish the wearer was considered.
Bonnets three times the dimensions of the
head to the shape of which they bore no sort
of resemblance, swung behind, half on the
crown, half off. The hair was arranged some
times with certain amount of taste, because
Il L i. -
prevailing tendency existed to bind it too
close, and flatten it down with bandolines and
hard pomatum.
AS for our poor grandmammas, their scanty
skirts and low bodices-very low bodices-
and bare arms and operate ankles infringed
sadly on propriety. We are quite sure we
should blush to see one of them now, and
hastily throw shawl or cloak about her till
something more could be done. People did
not regard such a scantiness of habiliments
with any uneasiness when it was the fashion;
but the disadvantages personally were terrible.
1t might be all very well for sweet sixteen to
cut her dress tres dGcolLet6e, but when any one
was little past forty, the matter was different.
1t might be equally suitable for beautifully
moulded arms to have no covering buttwenty
buttoned gloves Ga style likely TO appear once
more); but the little muscular exercise takeI
by the fair bellies in society leaves a great
many with slender arms, fiat wrists, and
pointed elbows, passable enough in hanging
sleeves, or coat-sleeves, or princess sleeves
nay, very graceful and proper in any sleeves
are unfit to meet the glare of the day un
shrouded. No doubt the youngest daughter
tripped gracefully enough in her scanty petit
coat-it might even have been pretty to set
her twinkling feet in tiny silk shoes with only
brown paper soles, though she was going int
consumption in consequence of wearing tina
bewildering chduSSure, and her disease was ac
celebrated during the January SHOWS and Marcel
winds and chilly autumn evenings by TIN
bare neck and arms that nevertheless, wer
so pretty; but to her dear mamma, who wa
lust sixty and weighed three stone, it could b,
no means be considered so suitable mode @
dressing.
So at last we return to the fact we hav
sought to establish-that never before ha
ladies SO many advantages in dress, or S
MANY varieties of fashion whence to suit them
selves. There are still abuses; there are thos
who have had the bad taste to cut their COZ
sages too low-and we really pity them, sine
an arrangement of little elegant lace woul
look much more pretty and modest. We hav
scarcely discarded the large crinoline ths
oonfounded grace and deformity; and we sti
rejoice in an English goftre on the head know
as a chi0non; a great beauty, namely, wei
formed head, is as much obsoured by I'll
latter fashion, as grace OF motion, that o.
ouisite charm, was by the former. But the
there is the gored skirt flowing into s such Il
comparable elegance and dignity IhoSe
whom Nature has been kind may orape IorI
of beantv in strictly plaitless carmen
"L;cb are the very perfection of styl
va those too stout or too thin,
sdopting a few folds, are at liberty
5~one sxuberanoe or conceal denclency
tt,~a ,Eithout losing the character OF u