The Columbian. [volume] (Bloomsburg, Pa.) 1866-1910, 1867-11-22
THE KALEIDosCoPE /:
~ map Of busy life
Tts fluctuations and Its vpst concerns
no. xLvr.


FROM THE RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS.
THE steamer arrived at Bodegus, OF
a. the Indians callit, Babahoya, about
10 O'Clock in the evening, but inasmuch
board all night. The next morning we
landed, and found quarters in rough
| sort of a building in the interior of the
town. Bodegus, as it, name indicates,
ii n depot for all goods passing to and
from the valley of Quito. It is the head
Of the river navigation during the sum
mer months, and from this point all
travel is either on foot, or on mule or
horse back. The plaza we found filled
with natives squatting around small,
temporary awnings, under which they
kept fruits, bread, salt, and other nee
cssaries Of life. Salt, in particular, we
found was Il very scarce article, and not
only coarse in quality, but vety dark in
color. In this vicinity grows tho grass
from which is made the celebrated
Guayaquil sometimes called Panama.
hats, some Of which are of so fine a
texture as TO be entirely waterproof.
When prepared for expectation, they
are rolled up in package, MS though
they were cloth. Some of them are
valued as high as $50. Out Of the same
grass they manufacture h9mmocks,
sort Of swinging bed gathered Mt the
ends, and suspended by cords, forming
al 49, T.. 1t. 4 LA
air" the natives suspend themselves,
and while possessing the merit of being
cool, it is a protection against mosqui-
toes and noXious vermin.
We spent a large part of the day in
purchasing provisions for our journey,
and in hiring mules to transport us, and
our baggage. About PM, we got
started on our route, each one of US
mounted on good strong mule except
the d,vierOS, or muleteers, who fol-
lowed along behind on sort of dog
trot. Alicia was too young to ride, but
we overcamc the difficulty by tying her
to stalwart Indians back. and in that
manner she Travelled the whole distance
to Quito. Our saddles were peculiar o
the country, being high before and be-
hind so that it is almost impossible to
fall out. A breast-strap and breeching
is attached to each saddle to keep it in
place in nascendinganddo descending noun
tains. The stirrups are blocks Of wood
| followed out, one side only being open
| into which the foot is thrust. They not
only protect the foot from rain, but
from chance knocks against baggage
mules, or rocks in narrow passages. The
girth consists of number of thin hide
strings, which unite great strength, with
ease to the horse. They are so piiable
that mud docs not adhere to them. The
bride had the enormous bit commonly
used in the country, weighing about
pounds. 1t only needed q pair of spurs
with rowcls two or three inches in di-
ameter to complete our equipment. The
TRUNKS were carried on 6disds, which
were simply two half round pieces of 6
corl,-lik wood, placed on each side
of the mule.
Our party numbered about twenty
and we Travelled along in the best ofspir
{ its, enjoying the beautiful scenery, ant
t novel manner Of riding. The path, 70
Q roads there are none, was comparative
: ly good, though | have traversed it il
@ the wet season when frequently the wa
Is ter would be to the horses necks, an
we would iloun Ter in the mud whic
was of such stiff and clayey charactC
e that'when once in it, it was almost in
:, possible to get out without assistance.
n At such times, too, the small stream
? are swollen, and their passage a
" ways involved wet skin. We stoppe
}. for the night at La Mona, on bran,
rc of the Guayaquii River, and quarterC
m ourselves in one Of the peculiar huts
the country, built on stakes or pol,
and with roof thatched with planta
Of leaves. We cooked our own suppc
~ after which we retired to rest, if til
tn phrase can be applied to a monopoly
re The floor room. managed to secur,
he hammock, in which | chung mys
to out"
~ The following morning wegot start
+" in good season, and that daymade tw'
''9 ty-Gour miles. During the forenoon {
!" route led Us still through the lowlan
by torpid treams filled with musky
o. ligators, or through deep forests givi
w u views of monkeys, armadillos, slot
III &C., in their natural condition.
lunchcd at Sabaneta, which, during
=. rainy season is used NJ a depot for tr
o. elers and goods, the river then be
H. navigable to that point. 1t conta
10 about dozen houses but in the su
mer time is deserted. On my retur
ro stopped all night mt this point, and, a
-, raincd all night, was glad to get the ST
-, ter of negro hut, which had the me
~ of a water proof roof Not only ha
" to go suppcrless to bed, but would HI
=. had the same for breakfast, had ]
:, been fortunate in meetings native v
- had gathered some palm tree COZ
~ which proved pleasant and nuiritou,
oh IN the afternoon the road chanj
10 from the dead level which We had b.
travelling over, to Il rough and brol
he country, showing that we were ne
M ing the mountains The inhabita
,n- were mostly Negroes, who stand
led hot, moist climate better than the
ate diaus. There is II deep enmity betw
ed the two races. Considerable quaint
err of tobacco and rice are raised.
z Il streams abound in fish, but the natl
cet either do not like this sort Of food
at have not the ingenuity to catch il
uy they seldom eat them. We stopped
as the night in Il romantic valley, surrc
Ich ded by mountains through which be
q. ded an impetuOus mountain sire