New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1866-10-03
MR. BAYARD TAYLOR IN TIE ROCKY
MOUNTAINS.
IDAHO AND COLORADO,
LIFE AND ENTERPRISE IN TIE GOLD
COUNTRIES.
A TRIP TO COLORADO.
xNr.-THB UrR PASS, MIDDLE PARK.

tniCk mist, iOreDOulnE OfeE ldCO VI
the earth Mr.. Byers's friend, Dr. Wharton, who was
eucampod at the Springs came down to the opposite
bank and some notes, tied to stones, were exchanged
received in this way, pink naioe, which made the
airy journey without damage. Our further route gave
rise TO serious consultation In three days moreH
had appointed to DO in Breckenridge at the head of
Blue River, about rs miles from the Springs. There
was no probability that could ford the Blue, in
the present swollen condition of all the mountain
streams and the regular trail lay beyond that river
We were aware, indeed, that the Ute Indians made
use Of another trail. on this side, striking directly
across the Middle Park (the diameter of which is
nearly hundred miles)--but none Of our party had
ever traversed it, or knew anything about it beyond
the rumor that it was exceedingly difficult and dan
gerous.
Yet there was no alternative: we were limited to
The choice Of this unknown route. 1t matter of
great regret that we had failed in reaching the Hot
Springs and proposed to start for Breckenridge in
company with White leaving the rest of the party to
the Grand at the upper ford if they preferred
They decided however, that we should keep together,
and we made immediate preparations for departure.
We first retraced our trail for two miles or more,
then, turning westward, crossed high ridge wooded
with aspen and descended toward the Grand over
aromatic slopes of sagc-bush. The mist rolled into
clouds and hid all the higher mountains from vlew,-
which greatly regretted from this point we might
have seen the Rabbit-EarS, two remarkable AlP1no
horns on the western border Of the North PARK we
struck the Grand in the canon below the Springs, ana
for some distance the path was noched along the Sde
Of fir-wOOded steep, over the roaring HOOD. Small
books invisible under dense willow thlckets, came
down on our left making deep side-dells IN the bluH
I was not very far however before the canon opened
revealing broad gray landscape. through which the
Grand could be traced into the distance by ITS belt OF
c0ttOnwOOdS.
bottom"-a low table-land rising into hills mile
from the river covered with uniform growth Of sill
very sage ard dotted with grazing antelope. The
sun came ont the mist from the snowy ranges,
and all aspects were cheerful except the company OF
the Arapahoe mare, which, thank Heaven was not to
last long We heard the cry OF an eagle crcLng IN
the air over our heads, and had not proceeded hall
mile further before discovered an eagles nest IN
the top of a cotton Just under the edge Of the
bluff We were able 70 ride within a hundred feet
and look into it. Three eagets-awkward, owhsh
creatures. completely covered with thick gray down.
sat on the edges of the nest, which was huge
structure OF sticks and yelped piteOusy. IL was a
rare piece of good fortune for all of Us, none of whom
had ever seen (and probably viii never see again) an
eagles nest With the brood in II. Mr. Beard. with the
aid Of good glass, made permanent acquisition,
and when his picture exhibited can testify that he
paints what he has seen.
Williams Fork-or as it is better called, Roaring
Fork-a large aflnent Of the Grand, now announced
itself 10 'front.' by the tops OF It's timber lslDe above
the bluff 1t was also much swollen, and the fording
was matter Of some difficulty. Mr.. ByerF, usual,
led the way, bre8stng the icy water which, striking
his horses side almost swept over its back We all
took an extremely cold legbath, and my pony came
within an ace of being carried down the stream On
the opposite bank we divided our party, White taking
the spare animals Qncuding the Arapahoe marcy to
Charley Utters cabin, FIVE miles further down the
Grand while the rest Of US determined to try the Ute
trail up the west bank of Roaring Fork. TINS ar
Ia al fIas fha ifyrfVfi
as White on his strong mule, could easily rejoin US
during the afternoon. Somewhere ahead OF uslay tho
lannon's moss agate region, which we were especially
desOus of visiting, each one having his private hopes
OF jewery for wife or sweetheart.
The soil on the narrow bottoms of Roaring Fork IS
the purest kHmuS producing grass OF astonishing rank
ness and richness, which oar ANIMALS snapped al WIN
crazy eagerness. We had not proceeded mile, bow
ever before our way was barred BY an abrupt noun
tain through the center of which the stream forced It's
wAy In a narrow, roCk-Walled slit-a canon tunnel)
In the strctest sense Of the word The trail led
into this cleft taking the very edge OF preclpce two
hundred feet in perpendicular DEPTH where there was
barely room for horses TO set their hoois Under
us the river was a mass OF foam: Opposite-nOt
stones throw the Jagged walls Of dark
red rock terminating in fantastic pinnaces. 1t was
sn exciting passage, not unmxed with fear, especially
when the disarraDgement Of q saddle in advance
forced Mr.. Beard and myself 10 halt for i've minutes
In the narrOwest part of the pass, where portions OF
the rock under us had crumblcd away.
a valley SuCce6ueO: L1Su secODu OiLlSI
where the dividing canon disclosed the most singular
formations of rock,--natura fortresses and towers
One trail wound away 10 the right: another (pOssbly
an old ekpath) seemed TO lead dnectlynt0 the gorge
The former was preferable account OF the pack
mules but Mr. McCaudess and myself determined
to try the latter believing that we might gain IN to
what we lost in laborous travel The ascent was so
steep that we could with difficulty keep our too-hold
In climbing; and it wonderful 10 see the contl-
denoe which the horses had in our leadership and the
dexterity with which they followed us. Ny pony
used his boots did my hands, taking hold OF grass
tufts and projections Of rock, and resting with his
uo9e on my shoulder when stopped to take breath.
Huge detached masses of rock and bushes prevented
our having good view of the ehasm, but the general
wldnoss and picturcsqueness Of the scenery was an
ample repayment for toll From the highest part
Of tie pass another grand gray landscape opened to
the southwark, magDibcenty bounded by dark green
mountain cham, every summit OF winch was Jagged
pyramid Of snow
After half an hour Of rather laborous scramblng,
reached the grassy meadow beyond the canon. Look
ing back, saw the Others Of the party slowly creep
Ing over mOuntain-ridge, mile more to the west
thereupon struck diagonal course and presently
Game upon the Indian trad, tho second bottom
Here the ground was stTewn with rough agates, but
with all my search could find no NOISY specimens
When the others arrived, in the course Of half an
hour found that their experience had been precisely
similar. Our dreams of complete sets Of jewery
diminished TO single brooch or ring, and then faded
INTO the thin atmosphere Of disappointed hopes
Il Mono of US found single moss-agate.
Hero and there, the trail, We could detect the
marks Of lodgepoles, which, we supposed were made
By the Utes in passing from Blue to Grand River. A:
Mis- was our only guidance through the unknown por
lion Of the Park, We followed it, although les general
Erection seemed too much east Of south. The noun.
.ain-range in front was apparently spur thrust out
rom the south into the very heart Of the Park and
No must II in order TO reach the valley OF Blue
River The Government maps were Of no assistance:
hey omitted the mountains and inserted streams
~ 0vtat Az tra E~.knf