New Orleans daily crescent., 1866-11-12

"details OF the latest decree of those who saw what
they shat and what they shall not wear? They
may purse lp thelE mollths-4afaet a contempt for
fashion s foieies and declare ia ali earnestuess
that they VIII not wear the new Inonstrosity fresh
though Il be from The great center Of fashion
falIss ungea YET with the lascivious air OF the
louvre or the grand saloas of the puilereE yet
ere their opposition assumes ii tangible shane
their repugnanee wits away and they become
the MOST enthusiastic worshpers among the
peg8 oi ~ aeVotees as the shrine of the 'new
style. Alae our lady readers may know what
hahlliinenis they are expected TO don during the
next tiFee months we give below full degerp-
non OF me latest mandates of the denlI monde
3ronl 1he recognized authorities:
No matter what shaped pedals nature has gifted
gouNlstl-=Ysaef ether fairly grounded or the reverse
yoa Iaasg make up your mind to wear short petit
Selts dtu narrow trinoline, for before the winter
1s over, ne fashionable lady viii be seen on the
streets with d train. The e6lored pptficoat viii
I Ss Aoahdonsa altogether, while one cut from the
same material as the dress will take its place
he arrangement Of this new style Of toilet with
Two skirts, so to speak) viii be as follows First
a pettieoat will be made 10 reach AS far a. the
Knee Win any material that is convenient: to this
VIII be joined deep border of the same material
as .gee dress. This border is plain at the edge,
anu II any trimming is desired it is placed above
the straight hem.
iae second or upper skirt is very narrow round
tDe hlps, and Is cut out at the edge in large round
zscoIlops, inns edge is occasionally varied, ae-
corning 10 the taste, by cutting it in SQUARES like
the top Of a battlement; Or ii vandykes or fes-
toons; but whatever form ii assumes, it is always
fringe.
The following is pretty model: 4 dark-blue
Jd2tee dress, cut round the edge Of the skirt in
round scollops and bordered witha plant or tress
OF thIck black purse silk on the underskirt three
FoWs F!o,Wys of black gimp qf the same pattern as the
SILK plat. The fona1atdtt is cut in the princess
form, and the bodies are trimmed with tress Of
black silk
Bands made partly of satin and partly of velvet
aEe nov sold lor pettleoat trimmings. They are
very handsome, and are advantageous in this res.
pect.Iney can be easily initiated and mounted by
q skillful maid without the aid of professional
dress-Inaker, and pieces Of velvet and satin that
may nave been lain by as too small for other pur
poses, can now be utilized for trimming winter
petacoats the narrower the alternate strips of
velvet and satin are the better IS their effect.
Inc GanrielIe or Princess form of dress, which
@ nas peeh SO very popular, has by no means de-
5hroned the small Jackets and now that ladies
nave found out what an exceedingly useful gar |
ment small jacket is, they Will cling to the fash
ION pertlnaclousiy. They are still made without
sleeves lot dressy toilets and OF lace with sleeves
1or wearing low dresses. Beads are so fashiona-
Ole that they are initiated III gimp, particularly the
white beads which have been lavished on black
glinps, me effect IS pretty, but these simutations
possess q great dvantage over the reality in be
ing lighter than the glass and jet beads. Besides
SILK beads are cheaper than the veIitable beads
q Diaek silk gimp which describes festoons, and
rs studded with white silk dots looking like chalk
SHE peplums and black silk Jackets.
. FoT palefQts and peplums, which are made Of
tne same material as The dfess, it s always con
suffered more distinguished TO select the trim |
nlipgs to match the Dress thant0 contrast in color
from 1t.
Feather trimmings are much used on both
dresses and paletots- very original style Of
toilet, much admired. ID a low nenlum made of /
cerise silk, bordered with black feather trimming
and worn over a high white silk gauze dress Both
Whlte and eolored feather trimmings are popular
round SILK pepluTns. a band of hawks feathers
round poplin paietot with faeings is considered
very elegant; in fact, these feather Trimmings are
ooked upon as dent5-sdisoa fnrs. They are
however, by no means used Unfortunately; \
9ands of peaeeck' 9 feathers are only to be seen
'0und paletots made of the richest and most deli
,ate silks and poplins, while the black feathers
are seen only on casimefe paletots The cash
acre is cnt out n seallops and the feather band
oHoWs the outline Of the seallops; the small /
,ollar is likewise bordered with feathers, as are
ne tops and cuffs Of the sleeves. .
lhe materials that will be most in vogue for I I
NJ door dresses are fat0e funwatered nao5re) and
opLn The latter is preferred by young married 9 9
nn unmarried women; and SO great has been the !
emand for 1t within the past Fortnight that its
rice has been considerably augmented. The !
aVorlfe eoiors are plain blue-of bright shade !
arg brilliant blue and pearl gray Dresses are +
oH made with basqunes which are simulated !
71th trimming, When the trimming is of rather y
eaFy description such as either thick silk or
nehlle fringe, or pinked out ruche, the Illusion
4
lat the dress has a basque. This simulated bas-
nlne naturally fits well, being the bodice. Coat
aIs are likewise simulated on skirts by means Of
lInInlng but, Of course, these simulations are f
aly possible when the silks are cut plain and a
ithont any plaits at the waist. 3
Inns novel style OF trimming is sometimes very d
tig1nal, as, for example, on Il blue silk dress,
1lch was made recently py one Of our fashion II
Die dressmakers. The skirt was gored until it | d
as plain all around the waist, black ribbon 4
slYet sewn on plain, and a second row of black O
slVet yandyked at the edge, described the con c
uF oi q basque Ihe yandyked velvet (Which b
as cut from the piece, and was not ribbon,) de. Fri
ended straight down the back breadth of the a
art until itreached the top Of the hem deserib- Ii
8 one wide coat-tail, which completely inelosed
% width of the back. n
OF all the varied shapes of honnets now ont the q
aeen Emma sd called ia honor Of our lateroyai d
sitor from the Sandwich IsIands--is destined to s
,egme the most popular, its beauty heiugI
lshed as q head gear among the ladies'. It re- "
mbles somewhat the celestial in shape, but 81
rms sort of lap OVER the ears, with number
small points in the back. The trimming CON I
ss Of two rows Of blonde lace as rich inequality ST
Y ls tasteful IN pattern. Each fell Of lace is rt
saded with three bias folds OF royal velvet, d
hils superb bird ef paradise is gracefully K
,ised on one side, where it Is confined by a b
aot OF amber velvet, communicating with the m
andean IN the inside of the bonnet Rhehis com "
osed of torsade Of amber velvet with dainty al
We cluster Of loop Of narrow blonde lace one "A
de, the strings of rich watered white ribbon. re
Another very pretty style is the "lambelle.n h,
4e 1rQatis Of lilac velvet fluted, and the black Of
nlch Is Of plain velvet, is covered with a mag q
ncent couture of blonde lace, which extends ii
,Wn the side Of the bonnet and forms the strings n
enoiton chains Of pearls fall at the back. On the cl
slde is bandeau Of velvet, richly ornamented ct
I'D pearl pendants. 10
sfe seei tnat We have given enough information til
enable the girls TO make up from it superb tr
easEean. aud so we have done. th
y -s,------- ID,
some years ago, in a fracas which occurred not
3, miles from Yincennes, Indiana man W
elqentally /, present Was severely wounded with ia
\ hlll5a w one q the belhgerents. Much alarm th
~ ssAeitea, and doctors were sent fer and one w,
iculsplah came ermed and equipped as he w,
oughI was exactly right. AT any rate, he went W,
VOTE upon the case as IL he was going Ia, do to
1ethihs. ~ a9lling up his sleeves, and diving ha
"a hs sald g the harror-strieken bystanders no
1 fsad case lncised cutof the prinean mem ex
anus ana throngh the nmbilcons msentary to ey
hneralnQm The yiseus and the sipnuno are nh
cised and the niluro oriHea of me bepatic due fl
: p larcerated to the anterior spinus 6f ma af
ohInent OF the fifth gangii al
rms was too much Tor particular friend of tbe s
or sutierer. He gave up and hastened out into on
open Pr 70 revive bis fainting faculties see
bile walking up and down painfully and despaiT ~
sly Wringing his hands, in front of the salaan abj
lere the mischief had been done. an ac6naint. S;n
ce came hurriedly up and said to him. tbo
& How is Sanl2A sle 5