The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-10-15

puipuie with white or black heads, h anetng
ornaments, balls, tasseis, silk or,wobllen net
ork. gold cords, chenille worked with steel,
etc. The small Cachemire paetot so much IN
favor last spring, is decidedly again the lavorIte
for tins season; At Is no longer, however, embroi
dered all over with beads-that has become rather
conmon-but is trimmed with bands of gallon
or cachemiIe work ed with beads. If the cache
mlre be of pale color the beads are frequently
white; for instance, paletot OF turquoise
blue, with white beads, black cashmere with
black beads being.the most suitable for mourn
ing or general wear. Beads have been worked
into such u variety OF forms that II scarcely
seems possible to make any novelty in them,
though they are still much in vogue. 0
Anew style of trimming is, however, being
manufactured, which 1t is supposed will be
greatly approved OF. It's composed OF cut cache
miTe of diverse shades, embroidered in black
silk. We must devote a short space to the sub
jeCt OF lingere, which is now 50 important, in
cluding not only sleeves, collars, cuffs, ETC., as
formerly, but those charming white morning
toilettes indispensable to lady of fashion. We
VIII describe one, aud with this commence our
monthly list of dresses. II is made of percale,
long robe with train, without plat or waist
quite high TO The throat, and fastened all the
way down the front with small 6ligree silver
buttons to match. II the robe is OF muslin
material more suited for dejenneT, or at home
dress--a small corselet of blue, green, or gold
cOlOred satin should be worn with 1T, with
sleeves OF the same, having small jockeys of
embroidered muslin, trimmed with lace and
the front OF the skirt trimmed with rosettes of
the same COlOrPu satln, ana lOOpeU up on eaCn
side over q petticoat with embroidery and Cluny
insertions. toilette of drab popiin.
Underskirts Cut round the bottom in long
tabs, trimmed with black velvet, worked with
thick white beads The upper skirt is shorter,
and trimmed to match. The seams are covered
also with a beaded black velvet. Fitting
casaque, the same material, with ceintuTe
with long festooned ends, and buckles at the
back and on the shoulders OF velvet and beads.
A toilette of taffetas, OF two colors. Violet
underskIrt, trimmed round the bottom with q
wide hounce put on in hidden piaits The
upper skirt OF pearl-grey tadetas, festooned and
edged round with black guipure. Body of
violet tatfetas made in high chenhsette style,
with hollow plalts, and sleeves trimmed with
guipure. ~Furpardessus, vest without sleeves,
of pearl-grey, trimmed like the upper skirt.
Peplum with tasseIs CT thick violet silk. A
dinner dress OF pale drab ta9etas, with four
front seams covered with guipure- RI tS!eert1on
over b1ases OF mauve tafetas. TIGHT body, With
sleeves Ia juiUe, and under sleeve collantes
visiting dress OF White faye, with wide stripes
of maizecolored ribbon. The bottom OF the
skirt is trimmed with three fiat b ases of dit
terent widths, upon which lriuge of jet beads
is put on, waved. Low body, with tight
basquine of black lace. A fourreau robe of
white tafietas, striped with threads OF rose
color. A wide train Low body, with tight
long sleeves and basquine oil 'Gandillot'
gulpure, without sleeves.
A young girls dress of white foulard, with
blue spots. Skirt without trimming. Body
with three large paits, covered with guIpure
insertion over blue. Blue taffetas sash, trim
med guipure, and tied behind. white gauze
dress looped up over a skirt of lilac taffetas,
ard tied behind with an agratfe of silk and pearl
beads. Square low body with "Pompadourn
sleeves, trimmed with Malnes lace. A toilette
de chateau-Skirt Of white muslin, the buttons
trimmed diagonally with bands OF guipure in
sertion over pale green. Upper skirt of green
tahetas, spotted with white, and cut in testoons
oo1dered with green piping. High bojy, with
tight sleeves. Peplum of musln-low body,
fastened with puts of rbOon and guipure.
Evening dress OF embroidered Indian muslin
looped up on each side with blue silk cords over
SKIRT of blue taf1etas Low body, with large
basqune embroidered and iestooned like the
skirt.
The Autumn bonnets have not altered vsibly
in shape, only in the materials used. Thus,
cbapeau Lamballe," OF black lace worked with
jet. AT he back, coquille Of lace fastened by
band OF jet, forms q small curtain. At the
side, bunch Of corn flowers of ponceau velvet,
with spray OF silvered leaves. Wide strings OF
pouceau, covered with black lace. Another
" Lamballe" was composed OF squares of black
and ponceau velvet, each square embroidered
with beads, the ponceau with Jet and the black
with crystal. The strings, of striped velvet pom
ceau and black, are fastened at the ears under ,
bouquets OF poppies with black centres. Brides
of black t1le. The back of the bonnet is
trimmed with fringe OF black and ponceau
chenille, with jet and crystal drops. This is a
very original and elegant coitluTe. A "Napoli-
tame OF white tulle was trimmed round with a
fringe OF white beads: scarf OF tulle, fringed
~ IudtCu WAS ldSlSueu Ou lut Top uuucT u CO.
guile Of pearls, surrounded by a wreath of roses
and fastened under the chln. A "Fanchon-
ette' OF rice straw was trimmed with pink tulle
and heather, with strings of pink glace This
couture although so simple, was exceedingly
elegant.
Anol her charming coiffure-for we cannot
venture to call them bonncts-was formed of
square of black tulP, trimmed with daisies of
black jet and edged with a fringe of jet. The
barbes OF black lace, which are very wide are
fastened loosely under the chin with an orna-
ment oi jet or small moss rosebud. large
moss rose on one side, and long bows OF black
ribbon falling over the back hair A chapeau
RENE Margot" of violet velvet in plaits, each
ending under jet daisy with an ornament of
the same falling over the hair. A bandeau of
daisies and two bouquets of hedge roses, one
high up and the other over the ear. Strings of
violet rlbbons.-A chapeau "Imperatrice" of
amethyst velvet plated across the crown with
fulling round the edge; bandeau OF large
pearls lulling a Z OTlentdle over the forehead: a
long white feather at the side falling over the
back hair. The form OF this bonnet is new as
it comes rather closer round the face. Strings
of velvet ribbon.--A bonnet entirely covered
with white clematis, with spots of dew formed
OF crystal, and a crystal fringe all round
Strings of ponceau velvet, with brides of blonde
HMnEN lAEH lWW