The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-06-15
THE WORLD OF FASHION.
Paris, London, and Berlin Modes Tor
summer-HnipOrsant Changes I'm Dress
60, DIS and Patterns, Eto.

The extreme lateness OF the season has delayed far
beyond the usual time the appearance of light sum.
ganGY has been confined for tine most part to the
op windows But the warm da's OF the past week /
nave called forth t0ulards and muslinfwondeitul TO
beho d. aud the infinite variety OF stS hs aud mate.
rials to be seen on the drives and promenade sur.
b,wl dernG enough We have known several oil. |
derY gent emen with large tami les of daughters
nearly mad on the subject one poor man nan told u.s.
ali oher pursuits, and devoted himself to the stuoy
OF boDnets writer IN the Pau NAL Gazette givesa
very good recipe for q modern bonnet which we ad-
wise our fashionable readers to foil w:-"lake piece
OF plated straw OF round or oval form aud bend 1t
into any shape please so long as you can balance
the article the top of your head. smother it with
tltcal flowers, or coverit If you like with pulled
becoming but this, should observe, is quite unue-
oessaTy. Pant full blown rose in the centre, or
eDcirc.e the whole with a wreath roses passion
flowers pa stes, hyacnths, das es ivy, lInes
the valley or punches of grapes or some cherries,
the rlm ana strings of ribbon of the same color
tie predOmnating tint of the flowers or trul form
ing the wrea' n the ends o. Which strings tie to-
second pair of strings of muslin or tule, and you
have bonnet OF the prevailing mode which you
tanner, d'ete Marry, OF Mandarin banc according
TO your fancy"
these charming bits OF nonsense,w we will paltlcu arze
lew OF The prettest to be seen in the shops. One
very sty lsh bonnet is a combination of Fanchon and
Pamela. The foundation is covered with pink silk
over which white tulle and blonde are arranged. A
PINK SIX ribbon, with white blonde at both edges,
garland of wild roses which IS continued q chaine
Benoiton, falling in front upon the breast cameo
brooch is used for fastening the strings Another
bonnet very suitab for dress occasions IL of white
tue. The lulle is pufed across the bonnet. and the
puffngs are separated by row of arge pearls The
edge the bonnet and the curtain is made of white
81 k embroidered with seed pearls, and the band is
edged wi blonde and from the edge there descend
esfOons OF pearls round the upper part of the face
and on to the hair Ihe strings made of white
tule, ed ed with onde and are fastened wi b
ma nj rose n nj n II
oAthe valley.
Fancy straws, mixed with silk or crepe, aud
wreathed with flowers, are very suitable for common
So much attention and invention have been ex.
pended on bonnets this season, SO much pains have
been lavished to reduce them to mere fan astica
head dress that hats appear to have been entirely
overlook ed, for nothing absolutely and strlkingy
in the form of hats has as yet been introduced,
although there certain alterations in the stvle
trimming them. Instead of broad sarsanet ribbons
and feathers being used, as formerly, narrow velvet
ribbon with small howers-such as daisies, vIoets,
and pompOn roses, sewn at regular intervals upon
RANGED round the hat, and are suspended as Beno
tom chains over the chignom. long gauze vel, the
side OF the front of the head with eccentric orna-
ment, IN either silver mother OF pearl or jet; then
down u az HE left side With tuft OF oWers or fea
theirs, and tne veil floats gracefully over the left
flowers and straw, are worn on dressy occasions.
Among the new tavorite summer materials are the
piques which are woven this season so as to 10 k as
though they were cOarSey r1DDeQ, ana tneY are
initiate braided arabesque guipurei there are also
generally on white grounds P,rca es are very
popular for demi toilette, and the newest patterDs
IN this material stripes of dnrk color With large
DAISIES camel stars in the stripes; the ground
of the dress is either white or maze CO or.
AS change to wear with piquss and limos there
is new material cal ed the Sultane. 1t Is made of
like the woolen ChamberY gauZe. 1t IS very pretty
in light color such as the new ne, pink, mauve,
md Orap Ir Ia and Onnnu
pretty promenade toilettes are made of it, trimmed
with rDbon of the same color and with Ihibet
fringe -
in summer without spending great dea of money,
must necessarily be the case in winter. Freshness
| is the great merit OF summer toilette. With two
or three mohair alpaca aud Sultaneidresses ooped
with attcewofk representedln black velvet white
muslin dress or two. and new light silk 1t is not
difficult tor lady TO look well and elegantly dressed
0urlng the entire season.
Tne Suhane dresses are made with pepums as
pepums are he order OF the day: he peplums are
edged with either lama or silk fringe or else with
| cIysta or straw fringe
| 1oiletes Tor the s. aside, and "LeS Elar" are
| more iantas &c than at any previous perild. rhe
long train, it seems cannot be dispensed with
| for the walking costumes; SO, IN order to make
| them weaIable, a fashionable mantua maker has
| produced what is cal ed Watteau costume, in
| which ribbons coming from the sides In front,
rye to loop up the tram at the back with large
knot and long ends. THIS in light, dressy materials,
is very pre- ty and really gives the semb ance, with
! the small wreathed basket WON the top OF the
| chignon ofthe shepherdess costumes we see in the
arti6ciai groups Of Wa'teau, BOuche, and other
painters of the eighteenth century. More simple
textures such as pque and the varieties of mohaIr
will initiate this style in bands of color instead
of wIde ribbons. There are, beside, the quite
oRSr cROT' sf band amaze smaaES 00Ss psooS
hich wil prove SO convenient for the country and
the seaside that the style will probably be IN great
favor. With all short lOoped-up skirts the feet are
very visible, and boots as a matter of course, are
far better attended to than when the trainskirs
worn Some boots are very elaborate and perched
upon the most impossible OF heels, measuring quite
two inches in height Bronze KID boots, with eli her
crystal or glt buttons, are tue most popular, be-
cause they can be worn with almost every descrip-
tion of toilette. Other boots, in equally as good
taste, made Of steel grey drure de SOte, and are
with kd to match n boO 1S Sn ns 81 she S
The heels which are covered with KID, are likewise
embroidered.
weddings are to take place IN this sweet month of
roses we close with the following suggestions in
regard bridal attire by the Paris correspondent OF
| the Queen;-
'At the present season that peculiarly dead white
gIos, which looks and l. both rich and thck, il the
iavorte material or bridal d'ess The bodices are
| usually cut with the pep um basques. II the bride
| Is very you hful q wide tarlatane ruche ia added
round the edge OF the skirt, and the peplum basque
Is likewise tr mined with similar rucne, long white
six tasseis being added TO the po ns of the ba ques
round the throat there is also narrow iarlaGane
luche Full, thick ruches made OF tulle ana arranged
in lows as ladder up every br adth OF the skirt,
are more ore ssy but not youthful as the mole
simply arranged tarlatane trimmings fhe pretti-
est bridal dress when nas come uhutr ,h,t my my
| gauze with WhIte satin stripes an Immense
train, bul no ornaments on the skirt Ihe bodice
was OF silk Rauze and had the addition OF peplum
BASQUE made of dead white silk, and trimmed with a
| long crys al fringe intertwined with a fringe of
white ae TUFTS OF wne mac snS tsd cE M M urUps on
| lilac arranged as q cache peiRne on the Empire
chiRnOn, and bandeets OF crystal beads round the
head small iu1ts OF orange flowers and ossoms
| were OF necessity introduced among the while hac
Brides no longer bouquets IN the centre Of the