The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-02-05

W
with crown like quart pot, is seeu In the win
dows and very rarely IN the street. It Is sa'd
that there remains in ambush, ready to be
loosed upon Rloaning world, new device OF
the milliners, called the Phrygian. This enor-
nifty resembles in front the caps worn by the
Irish ladies who dispense apples and ginger
bread nuts amid the silvery silences OF Park
row, and, at the back, the helmet which Hamlet
dofTs to the vindictive shade. The crown, made
very high, is surmounted by bunch of flowers,
above which simmer airy puffs of gauze, from
whose dizzy elevation two long streamers fall,
like Lucifer, never TO rise again.
The effect OF this extraordinary structure
is mildly described as "rather trying TO the
lace" Bonnets are smaller than ever; "gsy
notes that people the sunbeams;" o costly con-
cession to that prejudice of society which de-
mands that the head be covered out Of doors. A
lace handkerchief would be equally serviceable,
and much prettier. Peacock's feathers, tipped
with gold, bullion fringe gold and silver cords,
cameo antiques linked with gold, imitation
pearls, and other grotesque horrors, Gshgure
these a'omies, and reconcile us to their diminu-
tive size. Thus season witnesses the apotheosis
Of the bizarre ond pretentous. 1t is the result,
perhaps, of our ieverish life and sudden wealth,
and OF the untaught desire for beautiful cos
tunes and surroundings, which seeks IN no.
velty what 1t can find only in fitness and ele-
gance.
and other outdoor garments present no novel
ties. The coachmaus cloak, with two or three
round capes. is some what worn, and ls servicea-
z,
ments thus adapted 10 variable weather. The
Paletot is still the favorIte style. For negllge
and in heavy materials the French sacque is the
preferable shape, because it not only is, but
seems so easily adjusted and convenient. A.
close-6tting garment, with small sleeves, requires
time and care 10 arrange properly, and therefore
belongs only to an elaborate toilette. Opera
cloaks are made in colors, and almost unlver-
sally dispense with the pretty and venerable
hood, displaying in its place long sashes OF rich
ribbon, or pointed folds OF the material edged
with white Yak fringe, or broad apron orna-
mented with satin folds, and "a fall OF fringe with
silver pendants, looking at night like simmer
ol dewdrops.
have become so expensive that, possibly by rea-
son Of their costliness sable and mink mutfs are
superseded by those of astrakhan, of velvet,
trimmed to match the walking suit, and, in
mourning, Of crepe, bombaZine and crocheted
worsted, black, white, and purple: Some OF
made at home might be a charming economy.
They are greatly preferable to the coaser furs,
because they are genuine, not pretending to be
better than they are. The dark furs command
SC Fictitious price, that ermine, long accounted
the royal wear can be bought for very much
less than good set OF mink. Its delcacy, how
ever makes it useless except for a full toilette,
| and ii is not wise purchase unless one has
| serviceable suit of mink or sable. Ermine, with
negige attire, is like diamonds on ungloyed
| hands, or bracelets at breakfast.
There will be no new materials In
DRESS GOODS
until the delicate-footed Spring ordans flush
| OF primrose color, pink, and blue, and emerald,
| IN dainty prints and muslins, behind the plate
| glass of the Broadway windows. The shop
| keepers, ignoring those fine instincts of our
| fallen natures which induce us to desire the
loveliest fabrics at the most reasonable prices,
| express their avarice in such frightful numerals
as torhids all but prodigals to buy. A silk at
less than So aysrd is hardly worth the added
expense Of making, and modest merit feels that
those shining robes at f6 are not at a | too good
for it. But if we send money to France in this
| reckless fashion, it needs no ghost come from
the grave 10 tell us that the national poor-house
| will be the impecunious result Of our repub-
| liCan experiment. In Paris, Monsieur Dupin,
Procureur General, from his place IN the Senate,
denounces 1.-The unbridled luxury OF women"
| 1t is plain to see, he thinks, that both manners
and morals are becoming corrupted.
The aristocratc world vles with the demi-
monde in the passion for tasteless and bizarre
displays. Private fortunes cannot meet the
demand upon them, and genteel swinding sup.
plies their lack. Family life becomes impossi.
BILE, and the parental relation is but name.
AND he implores rich and reputable matrons to
form leagues, in the name OF Sweet Simplicity,
and save the nation from disgraceful bankruptcy
of money and morals. Yet France is not wasted
by four years war-is not exporting gold tol
luxuries which they cannot aHord-does no1
look abroad for fabrics which she can make as
cheaply, it not as daintily at home. At break
fast recently given at Compeiene to dis
tinguished American, 1t Is said that the Empress
|
the simplicity of American ideas-alas not o
American usage-wore plain dress of llnsey
| woolsey, with linen collar and cuffs. 1t is fur
ther asserted tnat whether a convert to tht
fierce Dupln, or driven to severity as the onl,
bulwark of eXclusiyeness, the beautiful Eugenh
ordains the most rigid simplicity in her artistic
toilette. Dear Democrats, who follow RoYalt!
through so many devious ways, do take thi
phenomenal straightpath and find 1t Wisdom
chief thorOughfare. In
MODES
there is infinite variety. The old fashion o
dresses in two colors is revived. A robe o
black silk is loopedup on one or both sides with
;, rich array of cords and tassels, 10 display
simulated petticoat of blue or green or crimson
l silk. The head-dress of bandlets, and brigh
bow at the throat, match this lower skirt in hue
A costly green silk has an over dress of blacl
falling below the knee, and lOoped with sashe
OF green. A closely fitting. waistcoat Of gree
7 and a. jaunty black open jacket complete tn
: costume. These robes are not tasteful, judge
y by the highest laws OF dress because they max
2 patches of color insist on rigid outlines wher
u Nature indicates none, and allow no flown
i folds from girdle to hem. But they have tina
I indescribable air which women call style, an
= two old dresses cln easily be made into a fires
y and attractive new one.
q Flounces, except on thin dresses for evenin
g wear, are scarcely seen. The most elegant skirt
3 are very long, and entirely plain. Heavy cor
. is still cewed around the bottom, and sometime
$ makes pattern of shamrock leaves where tn
4 brea1ths Join. Round waist with belt, and cost
e buckles of fanciiul workmanship are fashion
y able. Basques OF various shapes, slashed, ba
Y tlemerted and pointed, and iaunty Jackets
y velvet silk, cashmere, and white alpaca, trimme
~ with thread lace, are much worn. The sleeves
. in al cases, are very small.
When the fashions OF the Empire perish, it
X rumored that in the Egyptian costume the Cou
!, | will cry "Jhe King is dead, long live the King
y Exactly what that mode may be, an appalle
= imagination refuses to sUrmise. But one tanc
= that the present crinoline, which is transcril