The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-04-16
THE WORLD OF FASHION.
Paris Modes for April Another Batch
of Novelties, Etc.


and sides, at any rate, must be plain.
There are, however, two styles in vogue-the
"Prlncess" and the "FOurreau" For most figures
we give the preference to the former; which has
OnY one large plat at the backi while the second Is
entlrey the bias ike long casaque, and Il cer
tainly graceful, there being nothIng 10 mark the
waist 1he "FOurreau" IS, therefore, less Becoming
than the 'Princess" For both styles the long train
The style of the criDoline is very sensibly dmin-
ished, but II cannot be altogether dispensed with
sustain them so well as the cage, though they may
be OF very sn all dimensions fhe fashion, also of
looping dresses up the peticoats of doors,
which Will certainly continue through the summer,
renders crinolne indispensable in order to sustain
" oolen lancY materials are making their appear.
ance Ior the suring ,eason; but hat which still
always meets with the greatest success is the fou
lard. here is no doubt ii wal be the tavOrite beng
at once so firm ana yet so light and the patterns IN
such variety; it suitable tor visiting and soiree
Dress as well as for roles de chambre. The 1oulard
douDe chaine is especially charming. OF such
sohdlty OF texture 1t equals taffetas, and in onj
sense is preferable. being more durable The whit
foulard double chaine IS beautiful OF such pearlS
whteness. A toumeau made Of this without any
ornament but q white silk cord round the bottom,
and trimming the booy and sleeves, forms simple
yet charming dress. Cashmere touard of pattern
of bouquets, ~ atteau style or stripes of violet.
or blavk, reserved for robes de chambre, which
are made with loose flowing skirt, lined with the
The SIMPLE Spring dresses will not be much trim
med-pattes or lozenges, or silk piping, wall be all
the ornameHt-but for richer materials the various
kinds of passementere will be in reqmsidon. BY
passementerie readers must not undei stand the
gimp Of former days merely but ST. sik &C cords mixed
pearl pendants, IN endless variety.
o The rage for Cuny lace has produced many pretty
white basists and muslin podles trimmed with It.
and for small reunions they are much spoken o.;
but 1t must be said that black lace preferable for
evening wear, excepting, perhaps for quite young
ladies Thev made with basqunes Of WIDE lace
and, If Desired, sash band may be worn over
them; but they are always high, and sometimes
made open little way down the front.
AS to sleeves, when worn ut all, they are quite
small and straight, with an insertion up the seam;
these treQuentlV
as with sleeves. OF course TINS depends upon the
We commence our list of dresses this month with
some full toileIs for out. door wear.
robe OF steel-grey popin wi b band OF green
tutfetas round the bot ON, rounded and carried up
the 'front.' with row of green buttons each side.
Fitting paetot of the same material with D'as of
q cen tafietas up every seam. Pamela" bonnet OF
green tulle, worked with crystal beads.
dress violet faIIle at the bottom OF the skirt
by band of vevet Of the shade. with jet orna-
ments upon 1t. similar band up every seam.
Casaque of the same material the dress, Quile
light short, and basquines slashod and trimmed to
match. Velvet ceinture. Fanchon bonnet of velvet
Grape, with jet cham trimming 1t.
A Pnucesse' dress of violet poult de sole. Round
the bottom founce of black guipure wide IN the
front, but gradua y narrowing towards the back,
that touno the train 1t s quite narrow. Caaque to
match the Dire. s, with basques sashed up, 30 as to
make five different ends completely separate and
entirely composed OF shaded violets. Benoiton
morning toilet of Rnickerbocker, pale violet
dress short paletot, and undeIshirt ali of the same
motera al At the bottom of the lover skirt plait-
ing of violet taetas. Upon the dress at each seam q
Iatte rather wide at the waist and ending three
points with tasses which la over the skirt Paletot
trimmed with revers OF taietas. Fanchon bonnet of
veVet tue. Three bOullons, sepaI ated by cordons
dark grey dress of tafetas, worked all over with
small CRY stal beads, and round the bottom an EN-.
broiderY OF beads forming gIecque. Long casaque
OF the same trimmed to match; Pamela" bonnet
OF PINK Grape; the back formed with feather which
tails over the chgnon The feather is fastened by
triple row OF crystal beads " hIch IS Joined at
khn lilo Nnn NIwan
A. robe of black plush long train, quite plain.
Paetot OF the same, trimmed with Jet buttons, and
piped with maize-coored satin Pamela" bonnet
Of maize velvet.
dress OF taffetas "Princesse" make: wide stripes
OF two shades OF green. Up each seam trimming
OF Cuny gmpure, laid fat Two rows OF ClunY up
the front ana round the throat Sash tied IN bow
behind, and with long ends trimmed round with
wide CiunY.' Tight sleeves, with Cluny trimming.
A "Pnnceese" OF green more. As the bottom of
the ski sleeve small Touleaux OF green velvet OF
deeper shade, crossed every here and there by
strap of green velvet, trimmed VITA crystal fringe
Casaque OF IL @ same, trimmed to match, and band
of velvet and bow trimmed with crystal fringe
Fanchon bonnet of green tule, spotted with crystal
beads aud BenoIton cham ofcrystal
A lght brown taft ia dre-s, with double skirt-the
SKIRT having round the bottom velvet hounce
or a deeper shade, plated groups of three pats
I'll upr er skirt caught up by pates of velvet and
large mother-Of.pearl buttons, Casaque to match
with mosquetalre reyers rockets ana sleeves en-
White tulle Pamela" bonnet, wi pearl fringe and
wreath OF golden pheasant feathers. Bandeau of
Dinner dress of silver gray satin - 'Prncesse"
make-trimmed all up the front with double row of
white SATIN putfs, let in the material, and edged
round with black lace. Similar trimmingsi on a
smaller scale up the seams OF the sleeves, and ancy
buttons OF SILVER.
Evening drt IS of white poult de sole. Skirt on
the bias, with trimmings up the seams OF rose color
and white Ioches pinked. Bottom of the skirt
trmmeu rOun0 with double ruches of Julle to match
Similar ruches round the top OF tue low body. Gimp
A robe of green satin and white tulle in stri pes;
the tulle beng bouillonne and the satin cut nom
the piece IN long bands. and placed lengthways up
the skirt A row OF large pears IS placed up each
seam, joining the tulle 10 the satin. The SKIRT is
very wide, and with leng Ta'n. Bodp of boui-
Ions OF iule, and ceinture Penant OF green satin
trimmed with pearl ornaments. small ooulllonnes
sleeves.
with wide blue sam ribbon, frnged with gold
seqUins. Tunic of blue gold striped satin, very
short In front, with court tram also trimmed with
blue satn and seqmn fringe Body of tue, draped.
TIE 'Pamela"-or "Lamballa" as It has been
chrsteDed at the French COURTS IN vogue at pre-
sent, but it will have to submit TO various mOdihca-
tlons before IL can become universal for becoming
it may be TOR young face vet as all are not
young and yet all must wear oonnets, it will
necessary f(r our modises to use their talents in
venting coifures suited 70 those who wish to be
elegantly but not ridlcuousy dressed. There Is no
doubt that modification of the Pamela" may be
made suitable almost TO any age, particularly by the
introduction OF barbes of lace fastened under the
chin, which are beng used with great success.
The pamela" admits of very little trimming. The
scrap of ribbon or barbe Of lace forming the Isrings
rs always earned straight across the bonnet, and
the front edge is generallY-indeed we may say
almost alWays-edged with a bead fringe or lace
woreed with beads, The Bedolton CHAINS are also
much used. The fanchon bonnets are made princi.
pally In three rows OF wide boulonnes, vito row
OF beads between each or small Wreaths OF flowers
with o cache-peigne of the same. IL Is too soon,
however, TO speak of anything very decided In
bOnnets. We shall give q fuller description next
month.
PRIVATE BILLS IN THE BRITISH PARLIAMENT