The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-03-23
THE fashions.
OPENING DAY

OPENING DAY.
Once more the day beloved by mill 'ners has
come, and show-rooms glitter with the beauty
devised for spring toiettes. Never before within
our memory has there been such charming
variety IN the matter of hats and bonnets.
There is q perfect garden OF novelty and lowell
illness to select from, and each separate pet
fed. Unhappily the weather is lar from being
propiJious; and neither the streets nor the shops
are tbrohged to that extent which is generally
almost disagreeably noticeable upon this the
first day OF the new season. But, notwithstand-
ing the cloudy sky, the wet and muddy streets
and the generally uninviting appearance of out
door life, within the dainty little boudoirs, vnl-
carly known as shOw-rooms, all Is bright beau
tiiul and radiant.
little gypsy was the fret hat we took up 1t
was composed of white clips and tulle, held to-
gether i'm bands and puts by black velvet rib
bon. The strings OF the finest aud richest quality
of broad white ribbon, simply held together with
small strings OF black velvet. From the top
depended long fall of white tulle, held in its
place by bunch OF delicate pink roses; and a
similar bunch OF flowers caught up the tulle ut
the back of the bonnet, producing a very charm
ing effect. The next bonnet which attracted
our special notice was Leghorn of very fine
quality, being, in shape, slight modification of
the Empire CUrnet OF the season Just passed.
The difference between this variety of Empire
and that just referred to, is in the crown, which
is gently rounded, instead OF being square and
high. This Leghorn was eXqulsltey trimmed
with black lace and bunch OF scarlet poppies
made of silk The strings were OF corn-colored
ribbon; and the face trimmings smaller poppies
let in black tule ruchc. This bonnet was
extremely rich, elegant, and becoming to almost
any complexion. Another very beautiful bon
trimmed with pale violets and Grape of the
same shade; long. wide veil of Grape
was fastened in a bow across the bon
net and fell backward IN such way as to
form either q Voluminous back trimming to the
bonnet, or veil to be worn over the face,
according as fancy or occasion should die
tate. A gypsy OF pale sky-blue Grape, trimmed
with tiny let medallions and chains, with a sim
pie face trimming of white roses, set in white
tulle, and broad blue ribbon strings, was very
pretty and curious. The gypsy hat will hardly
be very fashionable, for 1t demands face of
almost startling beauty, and is imperative as
regards the age of its weaTer. Only young and
pretty women can wear the eipsy-to all Others
1t must ever remain inaccessible, and would
| indeed, be extremely ugly A bonnet of the
present modified Empire shape made of white
tulle, and simply trimmed with a wreath of
myrtle leaves, with the bright, flashing green
! berries among, them, was greatly admired by
| every lady, and merited the applause called
| forth by its simple, unpretendng beauty. Scores
| upon scores of equally beautiful bounets demand
| our special praise, but it is IMPOSSIBLE, at the
present time, to devote more space to them.
Shawls, coaSs casaques, sacks, and mantles
| in extraordinary variety line the rooms and
! flash brightly in the windows of cloak rooms.
ltis net possible in one article to do justice to
| such important points of the wardrobe as the
| bonnet and the cloak, and we reserve until
! another occasion a fuller description of the
| novelties in out door dresses.
We are permitted TO say on nigh authority
that the Marchioness de Galliet wore, few
| evenings ago at the opera, blue silk Dress with
a white grenadne muslin over it. The skirt
was made with tram, and there were no pleats
| at the waist. The blue silk bodice was low, the
muslin one high; a blue moire sash was ued
| with two loops at the back OF the waist; round
| the throat there was dog-colar necklace tied
at the back with three loops, and terminating
| with tygn pNtrp mol pnhc n yyt1n 1n
| blue ribbon velvet; locket was suspended from
this necklet in front, and IN the centre OF the
| locket tne1e a star of pearls the blue velvet
bandets in the hair were likewise ornamented
| with small stars OF pearls.
Low dresses are now frequently cut heart
! shaped both in the i1ont and at the back, and
! it is now not uncommon to see long sleeves With
| low dresses in the Louis XVI style. The Flor
| dAliZa is the last novelty in low dresses. This
| bodice is somewhat in Louis XIII STYLE the
centre OF it being different color from the rest
of the dress. Take, for example, pale green
silk dress with low square cut bodice; in front
there Is plastron of white silk, divided in the
centre by a strip of green silk, while upon the
white silk there is an interlacng of black velvet.
The sleeves open almost to the top. pelerine,
made either of guipure dart or gulpure Bruges,
completes this bodice, which is one OF the novel
ties OF the season.
Amore than usually elegant carriage costume
which has come under our notice this week,
may be summed up in the following few words:
| A black velvet DRESS white cashmere shawl,
and white blonde bonnet, trimmed with velvet
pansies; and though half page might be
written in praise of the simple beauty and
elegance of this toilette, nothing more could
be said, we feel assured that could more clearly
impress on the minds of our readers the perfec-
tion of so simple a costume. Very long trains
are worn for full dress and dinner dress, indeed,
with almost every dress that is worn indoors,
and in proportion as the looped-up skirt seems
to grow shorter, the trained skirt becomes
longer and longer. A dress for bride, of viii G,
unwatered moire, which came from the skilful
fingers of one of our most fashionable dress
makers this week, had a train two yards in
length, and which, in the absence of pages
must have cost the fair BRIDE a world of anxiety.
--.NelC York Times
The Postmaster-General has ordered an ex-
tension OF the route from San Antonio to Fort