The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-05-01
SOnpited from lie FO.tet," Der Bazaar" and
1.-THE Queen"

new ones Tor supremacy. 10 De uress5u "Nulu
the STYLE OF the year past, and b. out OF fashion,
Ia unite lmposslbte The newest fashionable
freaks are more in the line OF trtmm ng and
general finishing off tnan of positive shape or
color,
For bonnets the prevailing and favorite styles
seem to be the Fancnon, Emp re- and Pamela,
and up TO the present weeS 1t ls impossible to
say which will be taken into popular favor. The
FanChon is not precisely similar 10 those woru
last year as the new lorms under that name
are much smaller in every respect tnan their
predecessors. When they were first introduced
there was an attempt made at crowns, nothing
substantial ana hrm, 1t is true, but lace, RIB
bon, and an occasional sprig or two OF flowers
supplied the place. But the new Fanchons are
shoIn of these adornments, and enormous
chIgnons project, unadorned, rom the back of
tie head in Their stead. Fancy straw, worked
with crystal and Jet beads, will oe very fashion
able, both Tor FanChou and Empire bonnets,
during the forthcoming six or eight weeks.
A writer lro Pans says that the bonnet5 worn
at the races IN the Bois de Boulogne were for
the most part composed entirely OF flowers OF
one KIND or another, which were placed upon
tulle, and made TO cover the small round or
triangle Fancnon, which now forms the mo lern
bonnet. Thus one bonnet was entirely sene
OF girOfies (wall-howers), those above being
yellow and orange, while a few under the rim
assumed reddish tinge. A pretuer specimen
by lar was composed OF lily OF the valley, the
dew falling IN CRY stal drops on the forehead and
Chignon OF the laLr wearer. White daisies formed
another, and with this the toilette worn was
almost entirely white, relieved by narrow black
stripes
For out-ofdoor wear pale OTIS of all desGrip-
tions are in favor. They are made loose or tit
ting the figure according to the fancy of the
Wearer.
The Paris correspondent of the Queen says 1t
has become latterlV the fashion to wear IN Paris
what formerly was only 10 he seen at sea bath
ing places and spas, namely, paletots made OF
purple and wnle cloth, and extremely elegant
they look. The purple paletots are cut to ft the
6guIe partially, and are covered with black
silk braid or souGache, worked with jet beads.
The bralding designs surpass anything have
seen in former seasons, icing arranged in grace
ful SPRAYS on the basques, shoulders and sleeves
The front OF the pale -ot Is ornamenLed with frog
buttons. The DaleIots made OF white cloth are
not so highly ornamented as the purple ones;
they are cut with round basque in front, and
are edged with broad, fiat wor5ted braid,
headed with narrow soutache, VIII ch describes
either trefois or diamonds; gimp ornaments are
lnterspel sed with the braidng pattern, and gimp
frog buttons dec rate the front of the paletot.
Paletots made O. grey and fancy cloths are
much less elaborately trimmed than tle purple
and white ones, but, agan, those made of
Pyrenean cloth and Algerian silk, ana fastened
with buttons made OF Aleppo marble, are very
highly ornamented. white cloth paetot, in
its first freshness, trimmed with llama fringe,
is not cons ,dered now at all Inappropriate for
an afternoon dressy toilette.
For travelling aud Tor seaside wear Talmas will
be general. The following is pretty style of
trimming them:-Imaeine sailor-blue cloth
Talma cut out in scollops, round at the lower
and square al the upper edge these scollons
embroidered and bound with brad and alter
mating with scoliops made OF black taft 'tas, tken
a second row OF cloth scollops, terminating the
border OF the paletot
Paletots made OF rich black gros grain or
faile are no LONGER worn straight round the
eGge; they are now almost invariably cut out
in either square or round scollops. The bas
quines with three points are considered the
most sty fish; \ points fail at the sides and one
f the hack. The DOintS oil uda
The bas Qulneis edged with either a lace ruche
or with gimp richly worked with jet. Those
which are trimmed with gulpure are made to fit
the figure closely, and the basquines which
are rounded at the back, are as plain upon the
hipsas an pire dress. A bow with long ends,
made OF MORE ribbon, is Invariably added at
the top OF the back OF the paletJt.
ColOred hand embroidery on shaWls IS new
feature IN the fashions introduced tor the com
ing spring and summer. The materials upon
which the work is executed are China crepe,
French crepe, tine cashmere, etc., and upon
black or white grounds. Flowers and leaves are
introduced in the natural co,ors, sometimes in
garlands carried round the shawl as border,
and sometimes in sprigs. Lace patterns in black
and white, and executed with Russian stitch,
are also used, sometimes alone, and at Others
mixed with the colored flowers. Rich soft silk
fringes, knotted, are generally added t. these
shaWls, but sometimes the border is of lace
blacS or white, or mixture oil both.
Black and white gIenadine shawls, embroi-
dered in scarlet deseTve noJice as novel; PLAN
shawls also, in these thin materials and fringed,
and also plain scarf shaWls in llama, in all
coors delicate light blues and rich rose shades,
will be worn. A very pretty black grenadlne
Shawl was richly embroidered botn ii the upper
and lower half in black tule and Jet beads, aud
the edge was of lace. Other embroidered grena-
diues we're scalloped and overcast at the edge,
not requiring any fringe or other ornament.
Deep talmas of heavy black gros grain silk are
much worn in PARIS. They are arranged IN a
broad fold at the top of the back, and confined
for several inches below the neck band by
stripes OF more ribbons fastened with heavy Jet
buttons.
A stylish Promenade toilette is brown gros
grain dress, cut in the Princesse form, and
trimmed with black velvet and motherofpearl
buttons. Black velvet ribbon is se Rn in stripes
on the bodice and upper part OF the skirt, so as
to simulate q paletot. The black velvet is
studded with buttons and every stripe termi-
mates with brown and black tassel. A black
tulle bonnet, embroidered and ornamented with
SPRAYS of brown velvet leaves. If the mother.
ofpearl buttons are considered too conspicuous
on the black velvet, they can be replaced by
silk ones to match the dress.
For evening dresses the styles are infinite. At
a grand charity bill given recently by Lady
CoWley at the Grand Hotel de Paris, white
dresses predomina ed. The tinsel so popular
dunng the past winter appeared TO have been
abandoned, and gilded ornaments, beads and
spangles were laid aside for flowers. Fringes
made entirely OF flo Wers we're used for bordering
the coatbodlCes; garlands of flowers, instead OF
sashes, looped up tulle Skirts and flowers were
general in the hair. Indeed, all the headdresses
were a Ia anti Iue consisting of cordons of hexi-
BILE branches OF hawthorne and violets, small
conyolvuli and varegated foliage, mounted as
Benoitons aad festooned from one ear to an
other, suspended in front OF the neck and throat
A style OF evening dress which is exceedingly
novel and pretty consists of rich unwatered
oir r,,ti In fha EmDirp form. the low hOdiCa