The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-09-22
trasts, for outdoor garments, are not admired

trasts, for outdoor garments are not admired
here.
"PoLAR BEARn oLoAKs
The new cloakincs for the coming winter
season are all OF the Polar bear order, tufted
half an inch thick, and veIy solt and warm.
They are not adapted 70 either round Cloaks or
tght-Htting garments, and can only be made
into coats or loose paletots, and only trimmed
with The most eXtravagant OF buttons.
The latest fashion In buttons Is to represent
upon them horses heads, dogs heads, and also
sometimes the whole animal. The bear, having
received It's share OF patronage among the rest,
hoe gwen the name TO the shaggy coats and
sacks OF thick white and light butfed cloth,
bear cloaks"
These cloths are very expensive, SIS and SIs
per yard, but they are wide, and so, fortunately,
IT does not take many yards TO make a cloak.
The Alpine" clOaklng Is beautful; it Is of thick
white wool, or striped in eolors, blue or cerlse,
and ie used only tor opera cloaks, or in all white
for carriage paletots.
Opera cloaks will generally be made round
but few will have something OF the sack shape
and be endowed with sleeves, which, whether
tight or loose, or open or hanging, or what not,
are always, in ''full dressn q nuisance aud an
ineumbrance; and as full dress is TO be the
order this season at the opera we beg for a re-
mission OF the sleeve, and adherence to the cir
cular shape, which, when OF a moderate length,
is more convenient than any other. The soft
white 'Alpinen cloth is very light, notwith-
standing the thickness of its texture, and beau
| smooth, fat-surfaced, white merlno.
| Even the winter cloaSs are not long this sea-
| son, and some are very peculiar in shape.
| French pattern cloaks are, many of them,
| shorter on the back than ut the sides, are cut
| out in square or pointed teeth upon the edge,
! and are, especially the expensive velvet cloaks,
mass of embroidery.
novelty in smaller garments consists of
| Greek Jacket in white cloth, with a surface OF
satin. IL was short at the back, but still
shorter in the front, and cut out in square
teeth, bound with black silk braid. The
| sleeves were long, wide at the bottom, and cut
in deep point, and edged also with the teeth
above mentioned. Across the top the arm
holes were cut out in the same way, and the
sleeves were buttoned TO them, teeth meeting
teeth, with fastening OF large, pearsha ped
let buttons, also used for fastening down the
front. The sleeves could, of course, be taken
on if required, and the jacket worn Sleeveless
GoRED DRESSES. ...
More dresses are worn gored, and dresses are
more eo1ed than ever. Every fresh modldca-
ton tends TO contract the circumference and
increase the length and apparent height. Nearly
all the trimmings are vertical, sometimes cover
ing the seams; others occupying ,he spaces be-
tween the seams, with irregular lines ascending
from the bottom, or with something in tne form
| of sashes descending from the top.
Thick cords are still worn round the bottom
Of the skirt, although they have partly given
place to narrow bordering OF veive- or satin aud
10 fOunces, which are just beginning to make
their appearance again. Indeed, 1t is SAID that
the short marrow skirts, the one or two hoGnces
and the frlled elbow sleeve OF thirty or forty
years ago, are what we have got to look Tor
ward to. II so, the sooner we set up standard
of fashion of our own the better
We do not believe it, however: the Empress
Eugene is q woman OF too much taste to adop
q costume so vile. and has recently taken tht
most decided ground in favor OF common senst
and simplicity OF attire. .. ....
1t is TACT, however that all the oldfashionet
colrrs have been revived, blue bacE, tea
ore bpttlp-urppn and snuff-nOIOrp1 OUup
The richest materials are imported this seasol
in these oolors, magnificent gros grain, satin
| ana satin cashmere. 10 .y.us U
Imported robes for carriage dresses and dir
. ner toilettes are Of black gros grain, superOI
embroidered in silk and iet, or o rich silk i
colors, embroidered to represent Cluny lace i
! barbes and other designs.
Ha' CLUNY LACE.
. Even an incomplete article on fashion mu
not entirely neglect so important an element
his beautiful fabric has become. In the hnt
qualities 1t is used for the trimming of the ricl
est dresses, for the making OF chemisettes, lit
y sleeve jackets, and exquisite articles OF linger
f III the coarser patterns for trimming underclot
Y ing, skirts, aud uses innumerable. OF courS
. like all good things, IL has many cheap limits
lions, which do not possess the excellence of II
4 original; but persons who buy limitations do u,
expect that.
The ''shakespearen collar (pointed in from
f in Cluny lace, is the tavorite one OF the season
4 1t deserves to be popular. it IS pretty, and
: universally becoming. 1t also costs so little
/ to be within the reach OF eyerybody's purse.
4 CRINOLINE, ur ..... ..
notwithstanding the attacks made upm
u during the past season, still reigns triumphau
and will, until some better substitute than al
t. yet offered is invented OF the many dfIarol
! manufactures now in market the Duplex Eli
= tic" manufactured by WeSts, Brddtey u car
is conceded to be the best, combining as it doe
grace, feNbility, symmetry. and the capacity
wear weI. The Empress Trail, for full DIRE
10 prlda tn.-
= driving, shopping and general house use, a
/ the skirts most in vogue.
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