The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1866-11-18
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THE F1NHIONN.
winser ssylss - cieaksI ana 1urs.
5rprom IN NV Ycrk fost1 80

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TProm shs NV York Post -
The cold weather of November vili soon
displNce the tslmsss bssques snd jacques
made of silk and light materials which have
been so much worn during the past two
manufseturefs'ha have AlreSdy made Their prep
arations, and at ali the leading establishments
in the city the displays Of winter cloaks are
rich and varied. These cloaks are more
elaborasely trimmed than formerly -tbs hsav-
Ter fabrics With jet rings and jet embroidery.
while lace IA still much used for tfi.ming
velvet. Every ssvle Of cloak il worn shorter
this winter than last. Though this would
seem to call for reduction Of expense, the
/. costly trimming keeps the price - highss
ever, and the average cost OF cloaks is per-
haps greater than usual.
THE NEW DESIGN FOR cI0AKs.
The basquine, which was the prevailing
STYLE last year, will be worn by those who
prefer it, for reasons of their own, but it is
no longer the general favorite. Short, loose
sacques, made up of heavy material, for COM
fort and for ordinary wear, will be the fash
ionable style; some will be yandyked around
the bottom, or scolloped and trimmed, or
made perfectly plain, except that there will
be ornaments on the shoulder, to suit the
taste and means of the wearer. Circulars
are also quite in favor, particularly those
made with military cape, which rounds in
front, and is usually trimmed With heavy
fringe. The peplum basque, made either
loose or close fitting, to suit, has many ad
mirers, but is better adapted for fall wear
than for severe cold weather. Every style
has decided variations in the mode of trims
ming to please particular tastes.
A loose peplum basque, made of rich black
material, is quite novelty. At the back it
extends but few inches below the waist,
while the sides and front are quarter Of a
yard longer. The sleeves are formed of lap
In long points. 1t is trimmed with jet orna>
ments aud fringe. The trimming covers the
seams that Join the back TO the sides; and
the fringe at the back is very deep. 1t has
an odd look, aud will not be becoming to all
figures or all styles of dress
A loose sacque, quite short in front and
much deeper at the sides and back, is anoth
err novelty. The sleeves Of this are coat
sleeves, and the sacque is trimmed with jet.
An elegant velvet cloak is made in circular
style, with long and wide flowing sleeves,
and trimmed with wide point lace.
A new style, recently imported, and called
the Russo, is attractive for the beauty of its
design and its richness. The material is pur.
pie cloth. and its shape is something like a
circular, with points at tie back and front,
the sides being much shorter. The sleeves
are flowing, aud hang at the side in a deep
point. The cloak is nearly covered with Jet,
embroidered in beautiful designs of leaves
and flowers, which have hne effect
A pretty, close-6iiing peplum basque is Of
cloth, the blue shade OF purple, and neatly
trimmed with a cord and narrow fold,
with points OF rich black silk. A short, loose
a 4 a. - 4. L. 49,
trimming.
In opera cloaks there is the usual variety,
but nothing very novel or decidedly new A
beautiful cloak is made of white cloth, EN-
broiuered with blue. The small cape is
rounded in front, and full Of cluny lace ex-
tends round the cape. Another style is Of
blue and white striped tuited cloth, which has
wavy appearance. 1t is made in short,
loose sack, without trimming, and is neat and
pretty. These are all imported cloaks.
There are very many ladies who, while
admiring the various styles of imported
cloaks are yet rather strict utilitarians. In q
word, they have an eye to comfort more than
to style For such, the circular, with or
without the cape, the loose sack, orthe points
ed half circular or basquine is better adapted,
and is lar more serviceable, particularly for
country wear. -
Our fashion writer is indebted to several Of
the leading houses in this city fol. views of
their new STYLES. The establishment of
Natalie 1lman Il Co. was visited with
special reference TO the designs of imported
cloaks, and to Nine. Demorest, Messrs.
Gunther Sons, and others, our thanks are
also due.
The season is not yet far enough advanced
to speak definitely of the retail fur trade, but
that trade appears to be opening quite brisk
liz. The wholesale trade has been rather dull
which is accounted for by the fact that most
retail dealers-partcularly those from the
West-purchased last year q supply greater
than the demand, and consequently, now have
q considerable stock on hand. The prices
do not vary much from those of a year ago,
though the value of the more elegant furs is
@ trile less.
The fur collar known as the "Eugenic, y
which is square in front, with tips, is the
leading style of its class. |, is made up IN
ermine, sable, mink, chinchilla and Siberian
squirrel. The boa is to be fashionable and
will be worm but not extensively. 1t is very
expensive, costing as much as muff and
collar.
Ermine sets will be much used for evenin 9
wear. They cannot be worn on all occasions,
as mink and sable, but are far better adapted
for pleasant autumn days, as well rs for even
ing, aud are more appropriate for the first
days of spring. Sets are made in Astrakhan,
which was used to some extent last winter.
Many persons prefer 1t to the cheapfurs, such
as river mink etc.
But there is new fur, or rather wool, the
"Persainer,' which is better than the
Astrakhan. 1t is obtained from the sheep oil
Persia and is finer, more glossy, and more
expensive, but lar preferable. Pelerines are
made up In both these woods for persons who
desire something larger and warmer than the
collars. and are also made in every variety ol
furs. The persainer is worn by those in deeF
mourning. The muffs made from the more
costly iurs are finished with cord and tassal.
of green. or white, or blue, which is change
from the dark trimmings principally used o.
late. In foot mutfs there is nothing new thi!
winter, except some Of them have coon.
head by way OF ornament
Cloaks of fur are so little worn that they
are seldom made except by order, though |
few of them may be seen in the leading fu
establishments. Cuffs will not probably b,
much used; though if the wide flowing sleev,
attached to some Of the new styles Of cloak
should become popular, there is a possibiiit,
that cuffs will become again fashionable
Children sets include cuffs.
Sets made of grobe skin are though
pretty by some persons, but do not becom
popular.
The short jackets for skating are quite
novelty. They are made of seal skin. Per
sianer and Astrakhan, and are loose, witt
pockets in the front. Those made of seal
skin are the most desirable. 1t is said ths
they defy the thermometer at any range
Skating caps, made Of beaver, seal skin
Persainer and Astrakhan, are new, md vi
no doubt be much worn. They are of turba
shape, aud have band OF fur. With tn
jacket and fur gloves they complete the skaI
ing costume.
Carriage robes are usually made of beal
wolf and white skins, and are mostly line
with felt which renders them impervious
the most severe storm.
An elegant carriage robe is made Of tn
skin OF the white polar bear, with the hea
remaining, the dark glass eyes contrastiu
finely with the snow white fur. The price {
this robe is FIVE hundred dollars
siR JOHN FRANKLIN.