The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-09-22

lace, and ornamented with wreath OF small
white daisies, mounted on black velvet, and
having long, slender jet chains to fall over the |
ohtgnon, aud as necklace.
One of the prettiest Of the small styles Of the |
season Is the "Chignon." II Is . crown like the |
"Lamballe," bent to the head and shaped |
exactly the same, front and back II Is very |
simple, yet very pretty, and stylishly orna-
mented with bandeaus and jet or pearl orna- |
ments, the bandeau at the back forming an |
ornamental comb, and not interfering with the
arrangement of the hair. There were very
pretty all black and all white bonpets at thls
house; the black bonnets covered with fine jet,
the white bonnets with delicate marabout, or
with the smallest of white frosted flowers.
The flowers, by-the-way, are small this season,
although they are often used en- Tadsse. The
large single flower or leaf, spread out so as to
cover up the whole bonnet, is not now seen; but
instead, daisies, forget-me-nots, and fine jet
flowers are used as wreaths, and small leaves
are put together in dahlia pattern, to form the
centre of crown, and three deep to form the
edge or border TO a bonnet.
The Catalan Is simply square crown with
rim, and Is used mainly for evening and re-
ception 6onnets. The crown may be velvet, or
TUE, OF black lace covered with jet, or white
lace sprinkled with crystal, but 1t Is always the
rim upon which the ornaments are placed. An
edge, finished With JET fringe, is very pretty; or
marabout fringe for an evening bonnet. Moth.
ing can be softer or more becoming than
shower OF marabout falling over the back OF a
| white lace bonnet.
White opera cloaks, trimmed with black are
| to be fashionable this season, and to wear with
| them there are lovely wnite Galatians" of tulle
puffed, ornamented with blonde scarf and
wreath and oenolton OF small 6ne jet flowers, the
| benoton reaching to the shoulder.
THE "BENoIToN."
This term was at first understood to mean
| only the CldineS which, in Jet, in Steel in silver
| in gilt, in everything which could be pressed
into the service, have been recently introduced
| for ornamenting bonnets, head-dresses, and even
| Jackets coaks and dresses The style pro
| missed to become so soon common that, without
| such an impetus as IL has received from the
| production of La Fdniie -BeRoitoR, 1t wou d
| probably have died out. Now, however, it pro
| mjses to have as great vogue here, for one
season at least as it mad in Paris, and will un-
| doubtedly soon achieve much wider signli-
| cance not an eXaggeraton OF dress or manner,
| but will hereafter be, even to the very boys in
| the street, q benOitOT
In the meantime, q beaoiton holds the situa-
tion, and must, for the present, carry every
hing with the power OF its novelty and pictur
esque efiects-the fashion we mean, not the
play-though that also will doubtless achieve
| the same,
THE SHORT DRESS.
This is the greatest novelty of the season. 1t
remains to be seen whether it will find the same
FAVOR in the eyes OF the American ladies chat it
mas already In the eyes OF .he gay Paris senaeS.
The principal objection to IL here will be that
it Is only designed for the street, and is not
graceful in the house: this in our opinion, Is a
recommendation. one of the faults OF our
style OF dressing is its mixed character, its want
|
| uses.
| Halt the women wear the same dress in the
| street that they wear in the dra wing loom
| sometimes trailing, sometimes caught up with
| some one of the half dozen contrivances for
| raising ladies' dresses, but, either way, inevi.
tably spoilmg 1t. A neat short dress similar to
the models we have seen, Is surely great inn
| provement on this method, or rather want OF
method, and is not only convenient, but in
quiet colors, with accurately fitting gloves, and
handsome dark bOH5ieS, is immensely becoming
to all but very tall women. ..
1t is bad taste TO make such q costume striking
or theatrical bv much contrast of color, anC
artistes OF the best taste would object to it
What is quite allowable at a seaside watering
place would subject the wearer to very unpea
SAINT imputatons in our city.
To the snort dress, as a short dress, however
no objection can be made. The petticoat is tn
| same length as ever and is not revealed to sucI
an extent as it Is frequently by looping up.
Moreover, it saves all the trouble, the waste o
material, the risk OF tearing and spelling b,
hooks, pins, cords, rings, and the like, not t
here, and dropping il down there-and Otter
dragging it, so that the skeleton hoop, instead
} OF the pretty petticoat, stands revealed.
The most useful short dresses are made o
| Scotch Winsey, the skirt gored and cut out il
vandy kes. or trimmed with several 70 ws OF lar
row jet BRAID over petticoat simulated BY
deep braid OF the same material, put upol
tWliled cotton, and finished round the bottom
with fiat quilting or pleatiug, put on with
broader braid than that upon The upper skirt
The body is not cut IN one with the skirt, bu
has little polka attached, which is cut out II
t short, square lapels,s ami bound with galloOl
| or braid. A short sac-paletot IS trimmed will
2 one row OF the broader braid, band of the SAM
upon the top and bottom of the sleeves ant
} reins at the Oack. This completes the toilette
Very little material Is required Tor shor
: gored dress, especially if the petticoat is smu
, lated in some other color.
l Grey short dress, with blue petticOat boz
| pleated, is a good combinatlon; or Drown wit
gIeen, and black, or black with black and scal
7 let, or green with purple and black.
THE 'PEPLUM."
This introduction OF a new, or revival of a
old style, is sufficiently recent to be called
| novelty. The name itself, since it is derive
, ancient Greek garment, suggests its promineI
peculiarities to every one, those who are nc
very well read in antique costumes beng sti
: familiar with the peptltn upon the stage.
At first At was simply revival OF the cassi
model, and was belted In with broad band an
! clasped down upon the shoulders, after the mos
approved antique fashion; but by this time tn
idea has been so varied and modified that it
. difficult to tell what is meant by the word an
what is not. 3d..
As a general rule, however If dressmake
asks you if you want peplum" to your dres
1 YOU may understand that it is a sort of shol
/ upper skirt, open at the Sides and cut in yer
deep points; II a peplum" basquine, that 1t is
e .ighthtiing oasquine, with skirt open at tn
+ SIDES and the back, cut in very deep, shaI
) points, and belted in at the waist.
: The peplun skirts are very fashionable VIII
1 rich gored dresses; they are attached TO Waist
e band, which IS fastened on one slde with
l. | rOsette. d..
very rich dress made recently was o
: Giraffe" satin, a color resembling 'co1ee an
q cream" ;" but with more decided tinge OF ambe
Z IN it. 1t was cut gored, with traln at least
o ward and half long, and had peplum attached