The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-11-09

Jacob, Esq, of Dublin, who with his relative,
Mr.. walpole, assembled the Orter spitz Mountain
during q tour through the Tyrol in the month
of August, 1861. The narrative was penned
few hours after the occurrences to which it
refers took place. -
We left the Albergo della Santa Maria at an
early hour, and soon reached the summit of
the 5telvio Pass, from which we had fine view of
the mountains OF the Tyrol, Italy, and Swltzer-
land, Tor a vast distance around; the chief
object OF attraction being the majestic Ortler
SpItz the king OF the TSroean Mountains It's
summit crowned with snow, and its sides scanned
with glaciers. After a raoid descent by extern -
poriSed paths, which we made in order to
avoid the weary zigzag road, we soon entered
the Austrian dominions, and at noon reached
the village of Trafoi.
Having determined to attempt the ascent of
the OTtler Spltz, we at once made inquiries for
guides, and after a heightened search, we dis
covered two men, Joseph Schatf and Anton
Ortler, with whom we arranged to undertake
the difficult enterprise next day. We spent the
evening IN max ng preparations for the ascent,
laying in stock OF provisions, testing the ropes
with which we were TO De tied together, oo-
tanning wells and spectacles to preserve our eyes
from the dazzling glare of the suns rays on the
snow, and attending to the various other Things
which are requisite in an attempt or this Kind.
considerable amount of interest was excited
amongst the visitors at the hotel, and an English
lady most obliginely offered her services to us
an interpretsr We were reused at one O'CLOCK
next morning, having had but oriet period for
repose; and after hurried breakfast, we started
at 2'30.
The guide, Schaff, preceded us with lantern.
10 direct our steps through the darkness which
prevailed at that hour. Our path lay at first
through meadows, and then stretched up
through tail gloomy pine woods, freQuented by
bears in winter. Shortly after 3 O'Clock we
reached small chapel, where three Jets OF lev
cold water pour from the bosoms of three SAINTS,
scuiptured IL stone. The little place looked
weird enough by the light of our lantern, as we
entered 1t to obtain draught of the water. Day.
hgnt appeared shortly after and about o'clock
We Quilted the woods, and mounted q long and
wearlsome slope, covered with loose stones which
brought us to the foot of the first snow slope
Here we had our crampons fastened on, and
tnough we 10 und them awk ward enough on the
rocks, they were very useful on Ice or hardened
snow. we were now fairly on the SHOWS of the
Giant Ortler Sptz, the highest mountain in the
Tyrol, where English foot had never trod. and
we elt some little pleasure IN being the frst
from our land to explore these wild and barely
heights.
We pursued our way up the steep slope, which
was so soft that no step-cuUting was needed to
any extent-the axes being only occasionally
brought into requistion. About O'Clock we
reached some rocks commanding grand view
Of the snowy valleys, glaciers, and Ia eights
around, and halted for about an hour, while
the guides went forward and cut steps up the
ascent Of ice which formed the upper portion
OI tne vast CoutoT up which our difficult
pam luJs lOF us, III was quite de. |
nuded OF fresh or soft snow, and we were Obliged
10 keep as near as possible to some rocks on
our right, alter leaving which we had rather n |
trying time. The cliH OF ice was awfully steep, |
30 mat IL appeared nearly perpendicular and |
whenever we Ventured to take to the rocks |
masses OF the friable limestone OF |
winch the mountain is composed, came away |
almost at touch, laundering down with fear.
inl velocity. At one or two places we were
Obliged to swing ourselves round projecting
Cags OF rock, holding on tightly with our
fingers to the narrow lodges, which we're how
ever, really safer than the larger rocks although
more difficult to climb on. OF course, we were
ali well roped together, and took every step
WIN great anxiety, since one false one might |
prove SO dangerous. The icy cOu,Oir formed a |
sort OF frozen wave at the side, so that what I |
may compare to hmney was made between |
u and the rocks up which we had to climb |
Inc strata being very much curved, at one |
point there was nothing intervening between |
the slippery ice and a tremendous precipice be- |
meath nut layer OF loose stones about two feet |
WIDE. This appeared to me the worst place | |
ever was IN yet, as the moment we set our feet |
On tne stones they ratified away beneath
our tread-now down the ice cliff on one
noe OF us, now down the precipIce at the
llheT, according as our feet gave them direc
lon We had, as it were, to screw our nerves
u q vice, so as to give way to no weakness or
shrinking
After Two hours of this difficult work we
reached little plain, and after clamberlng nm |
another stony cliff, we commenced the ascent
VI some mlghty ZONES OF frozen snow and ice, |
of endless extent and height split |
oy occasional crevasses, which we crossed
carefully without much difficulty The dav
was extremely not, and the labor very great:
We mad been able TO eat o. drink very little
ieellng for my own part unable 10 touch ans.
lhlng) and we sometimes despaired of achey-
ing the task we had undertaken. The
guides mad told us that we should reach
Lne summit at midday, but the great
ooutOr being in such bad state,
they were quite put out in their calculations
AT last, atter two hours and half more of great
exerton we stood upon the summit of the |
Ur,leT s9.d SPtz az 2'3O P. NJ, Just twelve nour8
reached the desired spot and from the ton of |
Lhls giant OF The TyrOl, $4,000 feet above the
sea lSVel, we had panoramic view OF the Wiss |
ahd Iyreiean mountains in all their glory, which |
,ranscended anything ! had ever before seen |
The day was magnificent, and the neaIs ana
cy valleys around glistened bright as gems in
he blazing sunlight s'' :"
The top of the Ortler Spitz is a large dome. at
me END OF which appears O little projection of |
ice which seemed to us higher than the snOt
Where we stood, although the guides SAID that |
the latter was the actual summit. This proiec.
Sn, s.on, OF tooth of ice, was surrounded by the
~ ttuse JAWS OF a yawning chasm, aud from
ts crown 10 its base ran an oVerhangIng cor
'h, hIce 9l ice which must be traVersed If we
!. nOulu l aetenlPs ~ 1t appeared sheer madness
" " venture at tnls late hour of the day upon the
a is, lns, %ltn lhe prospect of long do Wn-
try it. We u0Oi''u no' "
we now began to descend, although we most
reluctantly turned our eyes from the stupendous
view before us, We passed readily over The cro,
vases and the domes until we were ON its ias,
Slope, when j. slipped and was dragged alone
WIN MN; Dut we were soon pulled bact nv fbe |
sSETt STOUT; arms OF the guides, The sensation Of
although only for a moment. The dav mn,
Oeeah TO cnange, black cloud appeared in tbo |
horen, anu lhe SWISS mountains stood ont with |