The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-08-24


in royal accounts. The French term dentehe is
also Of modern date, and was not used until
fashion caused pdssdment to be made with
toothed edge, when the designation pdssdmet
deRtete appears.
But whatever the origin of the name, lace
making and embroidery have employed many
fingers, and worn out many eyes, and even
the time of Henry vIiI shirts, RandSer-
chiefs, sheets and pillow-cases were embroi-
dered in silks of different colors, until the
fashion gave way to cut-work and lace. Italy
produced lace fabrics early in the fifteenth CEN
tury: and the Florentine poet, Firenzuola who
f1ourshed about 1920, composed an elegv upon
collar of raised point lace made by the hand
Of his mistress. Portraits of Venetian ladies
dated as early as 1900 reveal white lace trim
miuPs; but at that period lace was, professedly
only made by nuns for the service OF The Church;
and the term nuns work" has been the designa-
ton of lace in many places to very modern
date. Venice was famed for point Genoa for
pillow laCes. English Parliamentary records
have statutes on the subject of Venice laces; at
the coronation Of Richard III, fringes OF Venice
and mantle laces OF gold and white silk appear.
"To know the age and pediOrees
OF points OF Flanders ana Venise,"
depends much upon the ancient pattern books
yet III existence. Parchment patterns, drawn
and pTicked for pillow lace, bearing the date
oIl517, were lately found covering old law books,
in Alblsola, town near Savona, which was
place celebrated for its laCes, as we infer from the
tact that it was long the custom Of the daugh-
ters Of the mobiles to select these laces for their
wedding shawls and wells. There is a pretty
tradition at Venice, handed down among the
inhabitants Of the Lagoons, which says that a
sailor brought home to his betrothed branch
of the delicate coralllre known as "mermaids'
lace" The girl, worker in points, attracted
by the grace of the coral, initiated it with her
needle, and after much toll produced the cXqul-
site fabric which, as Venice point soon became
the mode in all Europe. Lace-making in Italy
formed the occupation OF many women Of the
hiflAA rnln AIaT.
comes. Each lady had number of workers to
whom she supplied patterns, pricked by herself,
paving her workwomen at the end OF every
week, each day being notched on tally.
In the convent OF Gesu Bambino, at Rome,
curious specimens Of old Spanish conventual
work-parchment patterns with lace in pro-
gress.-have been found. They belonged to
Spanish nuns, who long ago taught the art Of
lace-maklng to novices. Like all point lace,
this appears to be executed in separate pieces,
given out by the nuns and then Joined together
by a skiltul hand. We see the pattern traced,
the work partly finished, and thelvery thread LETT
as when "Slster FeliCe Vlttoria' lald down her
work centuries ago. Mrs. Palliser received from
Rome photographs of these valuable relics, en-
cravings from which she has inserted in her
history Of lace. Aloe.thread was then used for
lace-making, as it IS now III Florence for sew
ing straw.plait. Spanish point has been as
celebrated as that OF Flanders or Italy. Some
traditions aver that Spain taught the art to
Flanders. Spain had no cause to import laces;
they were extensively made at home, and were
less known than the manufacture of other
countries, because very little was exported.
The numberless images OF the Madonna and
patron saints dressed and undressed daily,
together with the abs of the priests and
decorations OF the altars caused an i'm
mense consumption tor ecclesiastical uses.
Thread lace was manufactured in Spain
in 1882 and in the Cathedral of Granada
is q lace alb presented to the Church
by Ferdinand and lsabella-one of the few relics
OF ecclesiastical grandeur preserved in the
country. Cardinal Wiseman, in u letter TO Mrs.
Palliser states that he had himself oficiated in
this vestment, which was valued at ten thou
sand crowns. The fine church lace OF Spain
was little known in Europe until the revolution
OF 1880, when splendid specimens were suddenly
thrown into the markeJ-not merely the heavy
lace known as Spanish point, but pieces of the
most exquisite description, which could only
h%vo T9on made, says Mrs. Palliser by those
whose time was not money.
Among the Saxon Hartz Mountains is the old
town OF Annaburg, and beneath lime-tree in
its ancient battle-ground stands simple monu-
ment with this inscription
"Here lies Barbara Uttman, died on the 18th
of January, 1876, whose invention of lace in the
year 1861 made her the benetactress of the Hartz
Mountains.
AN active mind, skilful hand,
Brings blessings down on Fatnerland.'"
Barbara was born in 1914. Her parents, bur
ghers OF Nuremberg, removed to the Hartz
Mountains tor the purpose of working mine
in that neighborhood. 1t is said that Bar
bara learned the art of lace-making from a
native of Brabant a Protestant, whom the
cruelties of the Duke OF Alva had driven from
her country. Barbara, observing the mountain
girls making nets Tor the miners to wear over
their hair, took great interest in the improve
ment of their work, and succeeded IN teaching
them fine knitted tricot, and afterwards a
lace ground. In 1861, having procured aid
from Flanders, she set up workshop in Anna
burg for lace-making. This branch OF industry
spread beyond Bavaria, giving employment to
thirty thousand persons, and producing reve.
nue. of one million thalers.
Italy and Flanders dispute the invention of
lace, but it was probably introduced into both
countries about the same time. The Emperor
Charles commanded lace-making to be taught
in schools and converts. A specimen OF the
manufacture OF his day may be seen in his cap,
now preserved in the museum at Hotel Cluny,
Paris. 1t is OF fine linen, with the Emperors
arms embroidered in relief, with designs in lace,
of exquisite workmanship. The old Flemish
| laces ale of great beauty and worldwide fame.
Many passages in the history of lace show how
severely the manufacture Of this beautiful fabric
| has strained the nerves of eye and brain. The
| fshermen's wives on the Scottish coast apostro-
| phize the fish they SELL after their husbands
| perilous voyages, and sing,
"Call them lives o. men,"
Not more fatal TO life are the blasts
| from ocean winds than the tasks of laborious
lace-makers; and this thought cannot but mingle
| with our admiration for the skill displayed in
! this branch of woman's endless toll and endea-
| Vor to supply her own wants and aid those who
are dear to her, in the present we'll as in the
past centuries.
In the British Museum there is a curious
| manuscript of the fourteenth century, at.er-
wards translated unto our maternall englisshe
| by me William CaXton and emprymed at West
minstre the last day OF Januer, the first yere OF
| the regne of King Richard the thyrd," called
| 'the booke which the Knight Of the ToWere
| made Tor the enseygnement and teching of his