New Orleans daily crescent. [volume] ([New Orleans, La.]) 1851-1866, 1866-08-28
Fashion Gossip.
[gron the New York Tlmes.l

It is still much too early in the season for any
fal styles TO appear, hut the unusual GOODNESS Of
the ar, constantly reminding one Of the approach
ing autumn days. has already produced among the |
leaders Of fashions indications Of various changes
from the light airy styles of summer. Closeftting |
patetots have been 50 long fashionable, it seems I
very probable that what is called the sac, or |
loose shape, will be worn during the autumn
months, for the sake Of variety. The "RoxeIane"
pdlet0t IS very slight variation on the sqc and is
principally remarkable for its quaint style Of
trimming.
A very rich "Roxeane :" is made Of heavy, |
black p01dt de sole, with TeUers on the 'front.' at
the sides and the sleeves; the side reUeTs turn
toward the back; the edge Of the TeUers is plain
hem, stitched in double row by a sewing
machine they are fastened back with oval jet
camel. The collar is peculiar in shape, as it is
aTched at the back, and is simulated with Jet
fringe. Links of vulcanite chains are looped
across the back, and terminate at the right side
with long ends and handsome jet tassels. Similar
chains are loOped across tine front of the chest,
and descend on the left side. The paletot is
simply hemmed with double row of chain stitch
round the edge.
The short sack, falling Just below the waistb band,
will be very popular Tor outdoor wear in the
early autumn 1t may be Of almost any material,
| but for very stylish costume it shOuld be like
the dress. We have seen very elegant prone
made toilette of mauye popn. The shirt is gored,
and the seams trimmed with white silk pipings.
| At the back are two sash ends intended for loop
! ing up the skirt. Each end is edged with the pip
| ing. Yhe bottom Of the short sack is cut in bat
| tlements the edge finished to match with the
other trimming a mauTe tule Lamballe bonnet,
| trimmed with yiolets, completes this very stylish
| costume. Another promenade toilette OF the
same general style is Of blue silk. The skirt is
trimmed with two rows Of deep chenille fringe, Of
| a darker shade Of blue The short sack is orna-
mented to correspond; the fringe is laid on to
| simulate epaulettes and collar. straw bonnet,
trimmed with blue chenille and wheat ears links
Of straw depend in double festoons over the
cllign0n.
The Paris correspondent Of the London Queen
says:
The leaders of fashion in the court circles have
all adopted the costume called the Metternich.H
Sometimes the g Metternich costume is made
with the skirt and paletot separate from each other
but more frequently they are cut as one, and form
a single garment. 4 Princesse dress, cut wide at
the back, and buttoned up straight line down
the front, gives very fair idea of this style of
costume, only remembering that at the height of
the knee the skirt is rounded both at the back and
'front.' and terminates with long fringe, which
falls over simulated underskrt of the same ma
terial as the upper one or else in silk, if the dress
be cashmere.
1t would be impossible to wear, all through the
winter the small and almost invisible head dresses
which now go by the name of bOnnets. A few Of
! the leading mliners are already making bonnets
on largerscale. The enlarged forms all describe
a point on the forehead while at the back they
are the Lambelle shape, only heightened.
One fact is certain, which is, that wide ribbon
strings tied under the chia out of favor. Nil.
liners replace them with 6eH0it0n Of blonde,
thinkly worked with beads, and with very narrow
strings which are tied under the chignOn. Many
) black bonnets are now preparing for autumn wear
theyare all pointed in front Ia Marie Stuart ant
i are covered with a shower of jet beads At the
side there is spray of delicate flowers, so eNqus
I tVely made that it is difficult to believe they art
b artificial.
It Small Vatican hats are in vogue, and so coquet
tish in their effect that they merit a special men
ton They have low, fiat crown, and narrow brim
y The crown is trimed all around with thick wild
n tress of black velvet, and in order to take AVA
. from its heaViness small white upright feathe
a is added at the side. Thick plaits are also mad
- of crepe and of silk, but they are not so pretty a
I. the velvet ones. Benoitons of flowers aud bead
IS are frequently addedto Vatican hats.
T. Chenille trimmings Of all descriptions will b
"a very popular in the coming season. Chenille en-
= broidery with beads introduced is most appro
2. pirate ornamentfor silk dresses. The embroider
should always contrast strongly with the color Q
If the dress. For example, pearl-gray silk dres
a should be worked with either cerise or blue che
- nile. Ribbon velvet under cluny lace is also.
very stylish trimming for silk dresses. Where
dress has full trimming of cluny lace the cola
Il and cuff should always match. The shape of CO.
/ lars has materially altered.
:. Last autumn the straightest narrOwest, TIMES
u collars were sought AFTER it was impossible t
J. find them too upright or too small and now ther
Y. is every probability Of the 'Petruccio shape su
o perseding all others. For very stout figures sma
collars are most inappropriate, the larger form
{, will be found infinitely more becoming, but fo
al slight built frames the smaller collars will eve
remain the favorites. The "Petruccion collar
composed OF three parts-the collar itself and tw
4, reUerS. 1t consists OF cluny and embrOidere
- muslin insertions, sewn in alternate rows, an
81 edged with cluny lace. Thh insertion is arrange
lie in perpendicular lines for the reUerS and the row
70 meet in point at the back Of the collar, frol
whence they dyerge to the straight lines in front
. The collar is finished off round the throat with
~ narrow cuny edgng and is fastened in front wit
ld a bow of ribbon velvet.