The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-09-22

Herbert Spencer says whoever has studied the
physlOgnomy OF pubic meetings cannot fail to
have remarked a connection between demo-
cratic opinions and peculiartles OF costume;
their Individual oddities aud tendencies break
ing out in wlde-awake hats, curious ways OF
parting the hair, astonishing shirt collars and
other evidences oil enlightened intelligence, and
desire to break away from the trammels of
fashion and conventionaism.
If this inference be correct, there is very little
OF the old genuine democracy OF feeling left in
this country, especially among the female part
OF il: for fashion is more than ever their god,
and conveutlonalism The calf before which they
all bow down.
In fact, we are beginning now, for the first
time, to have large privileged class whose
word is law, aud whose example, closely
modelled upon the latest European advices, is
authority.
This class is exercised at present upon the
subject or ''full" dress, which means half dress.
The truth is, we have never quite come up to
time on the subject of full dress in this country.
Many of our wealthy families have retained
ideas OF old-iashioned simplicity, or a spice OF
prUdery obtained from some New England
cestry, which kept them within certain bounds
and exercised an influence upon others.
This influence is, however, rapidly dying out,
as in addition to the privileged class we have a
travelled class, who know what is what ana
what Is due to certain circumstances, and have
come home with the determination OF raising
the tone OF American society.
1t is therefore highly probable that during
the coming winter we shall be better dressed
that is to say, more dressed or less dressed-than
we have ever been before, aud certainly more
correct and conventional.
But what has all this to do with the opening /?
Well, about as much the opening has to do
with fashions. "Openng day" furnishes an oc-
casion for q fashion article, but it is hardly at
the opening that we should expect to lind
fashions.
When fashions are to be seen in the shops,
they cease TO be fashions with the exc. .usive and
purely fashionable class OF the community. But
the boInets tell US of The
NEW BoNNETs
says some impatient feminine reader Dearest
little Miss Lucifer, we are going to do So ana
to commence IN the regular orthodox style, we
must say something OF the Opening" Itself.
1t is the custom now among the best houses to
issue cards Of invitation. This is done to eX-
clude the poorer city professionals, who are
unable to buy original patterns, and therefore
depend upon the ideas they carry away with
| them from the opening. OF course, the rule IS
| not very stringent, and though suspected per-
sons are sometimes given the coldshoulder, they
| are rarely absolutely excluded.
As to the bonnets 1--WE are coming to them
| now, there was never greater uncertainty about
! them. The styles displayed are nearly all small, !,
| simply clowns, with a rim, some round, some
square, some oval, some bent to the shape of the
top OF the head, when the hair is arranged en-
| LRdSse, back and front. . I'D p.
| High Partisan authorities assert however
that these styles are not now obtaining abroad !;
| that they cannot and will net last through the
L
| that the new promenade bonnets will be much
| larger and more distinctive.
| The latest styles received bear out this asser.
| tion. The ''Taien," the "Mezzaron and the
"Eugenie,n made by the millners to the EN-
| press, are distinctly larger, and very peculiar,
quite unlike any other that we have seen.
The Tallen" is of turquoise blue velvet with
IL round perked-up brim, which reminds one OF
fthe prints OF the bonnets worn hfty years ago,
only 1t is smaller. The crown and curtain are
both well defined; across the top OF the former
a wide blonde scarf is passed, which descends
low; and on one side of this pearl buckle fas-
tens small white ostrich plume. A small
pearl net covers the cape at the back, and the
front is ornamented with pearls and pearl pen,
dants.
The "Eugenie" is the Empire" so trans
formed that only an intimate acquaintance
| would recognize it. The brim is somewhat
smaller, and more round and harlng. something
| like the "Tallien - the crown is rather larger
| and the cape is cut out like crescent and sci
up round ii, so as to surmount the cbigaon. L
| the bonnet is of black velvet, the cape may be
lined with scarlet, or any bright contrasting
color, and ornamented with jet, or il may be
ornamented with jet exclusively, all black bon
! nets being this season considered highly dist1n-
| guished.
The 'Mezzaro" is named after the head-dres'
OF the Neapolitan women, which 1t resembles
II has Marie Stuart" front of black lace
, bound with velvet, and ornamented with ie'
and surrounded with real lace, which falls oVel
the chlgnon, In the same way that the square
Italian head-dresses are worn upon the stage
the square OF the bonnet being only smaller
! than that of the original head-dress The or9a
} | ments consist OF black real lace barbes, and 9
E bright black head of bird on the side OF ths
crown, with white aigrette sPringlng out O.
' | its tail.
The 'Lambelle" in black lace, black velvet
and fine jet, is worry good style for fall Weari
70 is ornamented with handsome jet CHAINS, OF
= | with side Wings of black lace, when form
Q ! drapery about the face, and are used SS SUP