The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-08-29
Published by Loring, of Boston.
[Continued from LUening Telegraph of yesterdcy.1
CHAPTER v.

Bong Meat-Salted Meat-To Prevent Meat
from Curling Up-Soup stock-Flavoring Soups
Meat Cakes-Rissoles-0 and Carrot Soup
TO Boil Artichokes-To Cook Maccaroni, or
other Italian Pastes. ......
Keziah's aptitude for learning cooking was
great, she was born for the vocation; hence,
had no trouble after the first three months, but,
until this time, the WEAKNESS of repeating the
same process over and over again was almost
insupportable, till / recollected that no one
branch OF my education had been perfected In
so short a time, and that no trade could be
learned in so short period, so | took "heart o.
grace, ~ and went on, and IN the end-prospered.
Morsels OF comfort came time by time, and with
them my reward
As each days dinner progressed taught her,
not only how each thing was to be cooked, but
gave her the reason why such acts she was
directed to do were needful-and that by any
other process the cooking would be spoiled.
For instance, in boiling salmon-I came into
the kitchen one day just in time to prevent her
from putting it into cold water. If you do
this KeZiah, the fish will be coloress and taste
less, instead of being of the right flavor, and of
pink tint"
IAN if you please IN, what can it matterg"
she asked.
'Only this. If the water be cold when the
fish is put in, it melts out the jellv or goodness
of the salmon, and the color is taken out Just
in the same way that stains are taken out Of
linen by placing them in cold water. Have
only as much water as will just cover the fish;
when it is nearly boiling put in a lump of salt
the size of an apple, and wineglassful OF
vinegar, then put the fish on the drainer, and
put it into water, let it simmer quickly up. then
draw the 6sh-kettle back, so that the water Is
only just seen to move, and let 1t simmer IN
this way for quite twenty minutes, or II it be
large and whole salmon, then three-quarters of
an hour. You may know when it is done by
looking at the bone, which then loosens itself
from the fish, either at the mead or tail.
'Will you recolect that all fish must be put
into very hot water, and never into cold? II
you are going to fry it, after well washing,
drying, and Touring each fish, or egging and
bread:Crumbing each, be sure TO let the fat be
boiling, and as 1t never shows tnat 1t Is SO, put
in bit of bread and you will see the fat boil Hp
round it. .. -..
Remember never to boil meat or fish; 1t
must only te simmered, and never put either
into cold water, excepting you are going to make
soup OF the meat then, as you wish to draw
out all the goodness of the meet. of course
you must then use cold water. Sailed meats
must have hot water just the same, but 1t they
are very salt, soon as the water has SIM
mered over the meat for ten minutes throw
the water away, and fill up the saucepan with
boiling water from another saucepan. BY this
means the salt is extracted and the iuiciness
of the meat is retained. Remember, too, that
ajoint which has small bones, as breast OF veal,
OF breast or neck of mutton, or brlsket of beef
the meat must be placed doWnwards in the
saucepan, and the bones uppermost; then the
meat will not curl up, but will lie fiat in the
dish and also there will show no scum or
blacks on it, either from accident or careless
ness. In roasting or baking beef, If doubled
piece of buttered paper be placed over the skin,
1t will not shrink.
''The water In which fresh meat has been
boiled must be thrown into a clean pan. The
next morning the cake of fat, which will be on
the top, carefully take of, and put il clean tin
strainer or lay on clean sheet of paper to
absorb all moisture; this fat put in basin or
preserve jar, into the oven, and melted or cari-
fed by the heat (mutton but just boiled Is the
best and sweetest for making cakes) The
nnf IN fhn Of tOfn
boiled in an iron saucepan for six or eight bours
and then strained through colander, and put
away till the morning; the cake OF fat (which is
useless) taken of, reveals mass OF Jelly, called
by cooks, stock And this it was which made
all our hashes and stews and curries so rich,
without being gross, for as no fat entered into
their composition, they were as wholesome as
they were appetlzing."
the boiling OF the Jones; ut first it was very
common occurrence, that after the fat was
taken off the stock there was only cOlored
water underneath, instead of jelly, then the
bones had TO be returned to the saucepan, with
the liquor, and boiled again. When the girl
found there was no getting out OF she trouble,
and that II she neglected IL one day 1t must be
done the next, for stock must be had, she made
up her mind to do the thing properly, and thus
lessened her trouble and my own.
Sometimes found bits of onion ard carrot
and other vegetables among the bones, then 1
was displeased; she had been ill.taght by some
one that all kinds of vegetables ought to go
to orm good soup and rather triumphed In her
way over me with this display of kno Wedge.
"But vegetables must be put in, ma'am, to
make good soup.n
THAT is true, Kezlah, but there is time for
everything. II you boil the vegetables for eight
or ten hours you give stale flavor to the soup,
which is to me unendurable and in which YOU
cannot recognize the taste of q single vegetable.
/ always boil the vegetables, excepting onions
and celery, beforehand. ''
Remember every soup must have, more or
less, flavor OF onions-in some cases. so little
that it can scarcely be tasted but yet 1t must
lurk there. But it must be fresh flavor, not
that OF dish-water. We will have this onion
soup to-day, and tomorrow we will have carrot
soup, and the next day artchoke, then sagO,
then celery, then vermcelli.n
AN then there's mock tmtle soup, an mon
gitorny, an some other hard names that I've
quite forgot" .-t
You mean mulligatawny, Kezah; but these
are expensive soups, and they would not suit
me to have, so we must be content with seven
or eight soups, favored differently each day,
The stock for these must be made daily with the
bones from the different joints which we have
In the week. helped out with threepennyworth
of bones from the buther's
with the roast beef to-day we shall have
carrots-some of these will do for the soup to-
morrow-recolect that each day portion of
the carrots, or turnips, or artichokes Is kept
back-not all sent up to the table e-but put In
the larder to flavor the soup with the next day.
The carrots you will boil as have told you BE-
fore; scrape them clean, and wash them we'll
but do not cut them, no matter how large they
are; If you do the delicate favor will be lost
and they will taste stale; put them into plenty
of boiling water, with a lump of salt and a piece
of dripping, let them boil fast for two hours; all
the trouble you need to take is to see that they
are kept boiling.
"We viii make some soup for tomorrow from