The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-11-09

| ndNt dteaey maui tnen preparations, and at
| displays ol winter cloaks are rich and varied
| These cloaks are more elaborately trimmed than
formerly, the heavier fabrics With jet fringe
| and jtt embroidery, while lace is still much
| used for trimming velvet. Every stvle of CLOAK
is worn shorter this winter than last wear.
! Though this would seem TO cal for a reduction
OF expense, tbe costly trimming keeps the price
| is perhaps greater than usual
THE NEW DESIGNS FOR CLoAKs.
| Tue basqune, which was the prevailing style
| last year, VIII be worn by those who prelerit
for reasons of their own but it Is no longer the
general iavoIite. Short loose sacoues made mn
| OF heavy material, tor comfort and ordinary
wear Will be the fashionable STYLE; soma will he
! vandyked around the bottom, or sculloped and
| trimmed, or made perfectly plain, except that
| there will be ornaments or the shoulders to
! suit the taste and means of the wearer Circn-
lars are also quite in favor, particularly those
| made with a military cape, when rounds in
1, 1ront, ana is usually trimmed with heavy fringe.
| The peplum basque, made either loose or close.
| hitting, TO suit has many admirers, bur is better
! aoapted for fall wear than for severe cold
! weather. Every style has decided variations In
the mode thinning, to please particular tastes
loose peplum besque, made of rich pIack
material, is quite novelty. At the back 1t eX-
tends but few inches belo the waist, while
me sides ana front are a quarter of yard
longer. The sleeves are formed OF lapels fail
ing from the shoulder over the arms in long
points. 1t is trimmed with Jet ornam ,nts and
fringe. The trimming covers the seams that
join the back 10 the sides, and the fringe at the
back Is very deep. 1t has aa odd look, and will
dress.
A loose sacque, quite short in front and much
deeper atthe sides and back, is another novelty.
The sleeves of this are coat sleeves ana tbe
sacque is trimmed with let.
An elegant velvet cloak is made in circular
style, With long and wide flowing sleeves and
trimmed with wide point lace.
new style, recently imported, and called
the Russo, is attractive for the beauty OF its
design and its richness The material Is purole
cloth, and its shape is something like circular
with points at the back and front the sides
Icing much shorter. The sleeves are howIng
and hang at the side in a deep point. The cloak
Is nearly covered with jet, embroidered in beau.
t'iul designs OF leaves ana lowers, which have
q tine effect
A pretty. close-fttng peplum basque is of
cloth, the blue shaoe OF purple, and neatly
trimmed with a cord and narrow fold With
points OF rich black silk. short loose sacnue
Of brown tuited cloth is made without trimming.
In opera cloaks there is the usual VARIETY bat
nothing very novel or decidedly new A bean.
ttul cloak is made OF white CLOTH embroidered
Wlfh blue. The small cape is rounded In front
and tall OF cluny lace extends round tie cane
Another style is OF blue and white striped tufted
cloth which has a wavy appearance. 1t Is made
IN a snort loose sacque without trimming
and is neat aud pretty. These are all imported
ClOaks.
There are very many ladies who, while ad
miI2Dg The various styles OF imported cloaks.
me Yet rather strict utllitarians. In a word
ihey have an eye TO comfort more than to stVle
FOR such the circular, with or without the cane
the loose sacque or the POINTED halt circular or
basdune Is, better adapted, and is far more
stryiceoble, particularly Tor country wear.
FURs.
The season is not yet far enough advanced TO
speak uehnltely OF the retail fur trade b1t that
trade appears to be opening quite briskly. The
wholesale trade has been rather dull, which il
accounted for by the fact that most retail dealers
particularly those from the West-purcnased
last year supply greater than the demand
ana, consequently, now have q considerable
stock Oh hand. The prices do not vary much
from those of year ago, though the value of
the more elegant furs is a trihe less.
The fur collar, known as the "Eugenie"
which is square IN front with tips, is the lead
ing style oil It's class. 1t is made up in ermine,
sable, mink, chlnchilla, and Siberian squirrel |
The boa Is to be fashionable, and will be worn |
but not extensively. 1t is very expensive cost |
ing as much as muf and collar.
Frmine sets Will be much used for evening |
wear They cannot be worn on all occasions. as |
mink and sable, but are far better adaoted for |
pleasant autumn days, as well as for evening |
and are more appropriate for the first days OF |
spring. Sets are made in Astrakhan, which was |
used to some extent last winter Many persons |
prefer 1t TO the cheap turs, such as "rlyer |
mink" etc.
But there is new fur, or rather wool, the |
''PeTsianer,' which is better than the Astrakhan.
1t is obtained from sheep of Persia, and is liner
more glossy, and more expensive, but far pre- |
terable. Pelerlnes are made up IN bocb these |
woods Tor persons who desire something larger
and warmer than the collars, and are also made
IN every variety OF fur. The Persimeris is worn
by those in deep mourning. The mutFs made
from the more costly iurs finished with cord
and tassels OF green, or white, or blue. which is
change rom the dark trimmings PRINCIPALLY
used OF late, In foot muhs there is nOthlnG
new this winter, except some of them have
coon's head by way OF ornament.
ClOaks of fur are so little worn that they are
10 mo- do hv1A AVJaV ii |
them may be seen in the leading fnr establish
mens. Cuffs will not probably be much used:
though If the WIDE flowing sleeve attached to
some OF the new styles of cloaks should become
popular, there Is a possibility tnat cuffs will be-
come AGAIN fashionable. Cbildren's sets include '
cuffs.
Sets made of greba skin are thought nrottv nv
some persons, but do not become popular.
The short jackets for skating are onite a |
novelty. They are made OF seasGn Persianer
and Astrakhan, and are loose. with pockets i'm
the front. Those made of sealskin aJe most de-
sirabIe, 1t is said that they "defy the ther-
mometer" at any range.
Skating caps, made Of beaver, sealskin, Per-
staner, and Astrakhan, are new, and will no
doubt be much worn. They are of tnrban |
shape and have band OF fur; with the Jacket
and iur gloves they complete the skating COS
tune.
Carriage robes are usually made of bear. wolf,
anu white skins, and are mostly lined with felt, |
which render them impervious in the most
severe storm.
An ELEGANT carriage robe is ma le of the SKIN
OF the white polar bear, with the head remain
ing, the dark glass eyes contrasting dnely With
ihe snow white fur. The price this robe is
nve hundred dollars.
The royal palace at Brussels has lust had
very narrow escape from being DESTROYED bY |