The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-05-15
THE FASHIONS.
ROnnets, ClOahs, Dresses. Laces, OrnR-
ments, EIc.-rhe STYLES for Way.

BOnpets, CIOaks, Dresses, Lsces, Orna-
ments, EIc,-'TBe styles for May.
There has never been in May greater variety in
were prominent duDg the past year are not vet dis
caIded, though they are gradually yielding to the
newer ang more tancliul designs OF the fashion
makers, who are ever the alert Tor something
charming, gay, or eccentric The present styles are
nearly ali attractive, Tne prevailing colors are blue
green, lavender grey and cerise different shades
White is also quie favonIe, and is much used for
trimming bonnets. When contrasting colors are
worn they are usually so bended as to harmonize
perfectly, and have very pleasing effect Lhout
beng showy--a refined taste always discerning ee-
gance in richness and unoDnusiVe simplicity, rather
A novel proposal, and one somewhat startling to
the Parsian ladies, has been made in France. IL is
that society be formed toI tue purpose Of putting
stop to the exiravagant style of dress generally
adopted there One OF the prncpal rules of tle
society VIII be, that each member shall pledge her.
self 10 dress with elegant simplicity" That 1t
will be successful cannot be confidently anticipated;
but the mint ought 10 be useful TO the women of our
own country.
The styles Of bonnet in the present month are the
Empne, Fanchon, and Pamela or GiOsv The
test Tor popular favor is between the Fanchon and the
Gypsy. Ihe BanchOn IS not, however, exactly like
that OF last year. beng smaller, and IN some respects
pret Ter. An effort was recently made to revive
crowns, and so rule 1t out but the attempt proved
futile. rhe Fanchon has many admirers and their
number increasing. fall OF narrow lace, an oc-
casonal spray of flowers, or a vine OF green leaves
resting upon the ha r. has a lar more pretty effect
than any high stiff crown how ever artsticaly con-
structed A letter from Paris says that the bonnes
recently worn there almost all made of flowers
OF one kind other, fastened oon tule, and en-
tirely G. yerlng the triangular Fanchon which is 20
much IN vogue. One bonnet entrey of vail
flowers, those above being yellow and orange, while
lew under the rim had reddish tint; A much
prettler bonnet was composed OF the lily of the
valley, the crystal dew-drcp falling on the forehead,
and ON the hair at the back OF the neal Another
formed OF white dalses, and the dress worn was
almost exclusively white, relieved by narrow black
stripes.
bonnets this season beng so formed as to require
but little trimming. The bonnets are very small,
aud the straws mostly in fancy bralds that need
no decoration; but an unusual number OF ornaments
have been introduced, such as chains rings OF
beads buttons, canoes, buckles clasps, and mix
ture OF jet and straw When TO these added lace
flowers, ribbon, and veil, we seek In vain glimpse
OF the bonnet; it IL completely hidden.
The Gypsy much worn, especially by quite
young ladies, ant WILL doubtless remain fashionable.
IT, IS very becoming 10 pretty face, but lace on
which ume has left oecloed impress, one that is
unattrac Ive sad out of pace under the flowers
and dewdrops ofa UipsY hat
DRESSES
Morning dresses are made of fine cambric, or
pique, in white very light delicate cOlors. They
are sometimes gored when made of pique, but very
pretty morning dress is OF white cambrlc the skirt
tucked, and sometimes embroidered. A short jacket,
also EN- r0ideTed is worn over it, making neat and
SUITS are very much worn during the present
month. They are made OF summer pOplin, goat hair
clCth mohair in delicate shades such as lavender
or pear grey and LIGHT Chimes The skirt is usually
partly entirely gored and over 1t is worn either
basquine, talma, on round cloak with the coach
rn2ns cape, may s1it the fancy OF the But
the basquine is more used in SUITS than any other
form of G oak.
RionE habits are made either in grey or dark
colors, t he bodice beng IN the close.ftting coat
@ %n ,ncsed cbemsette be snort % skirt is
trimmed with black 9aoon or velvet ribbon and
jet buttons, with an imltation pocket ana vest IN
tary cuff. The dress has straps to raise it on dis
mourning.
Basguines made OF purple and white cloth
which extremely egant, but were formerly
only seen at sea bathing paces-haVe been worn in
Paris those made of purple are decorated with
black braid and jet beads, arranged in graceful
sprays upon the basque, shoulders, and sleeves
Those of white are not so highly ornamented-
gimp ornaments are inerspersed with the braiding
pattern
The basqune,i is the prevailing style of cloak not
only in suits, but III black silk Still there is hesi-
abc into the g ng S this Hsrg
has been so long worn hat it is thought change OF
some kind is before long inevitable Most of the
basquines are not now straight around the edge but
are cut either in round or square scolops those
with three points are considered "stylish"-one
point falling a. the back and one at each side. Deep
falmas having q bI DAD told at the top OF the back
and confined some inches below the neck band by
ribbons, are among the new garments
A novel feature of dress which will probably be
introduce this in New York, is colored hand
work Is done China crepe French crepe fine
Cashmere, etc, and upon white or b ack ground.
border is made flowers and leaves in their natura
colors. Lace patterns in Russian stitch some
times InteIspersed with these flowers and the edge
is finished bv rich silk lringe; or the border il
made OF black or white lace, or a mixture Of both.
MISCELLANEOUS
The hair is worn trihe higher at the back of thu
head than it has recently been. Curls aud crimp;
still fashionable, ana the coils, arranged in DIFF
ferenJ ways, much worn. In place of velvet
bandlets mOire and gros grain ribbons are used
and the steamers at the back of the head aIe lOnge
than ever. GOLD bands are also worn around th
head and gleam out from tiers of curls
In silks a new shade Is worn 1T Is lilac pink
and Is becoming to most compexions. A new ma
teriaI, cal ed Chambray fouard has become ex
tremely fashionable. II is fabric between thl
Chembray gauze and taft tas in texture and falls il
regular, graceful TO ds In pearl grey 1t has the ap
pearance OF being woven with silver threads. 1t l
worn IN stripes in white and cerise white and blue
white and mauve, or grey with colored stripes l
is said white and scarlet will be the Partisan sum
mixtures, and white iouard bod ces AL
trimmed with these co lols.
GaIibaldis in white muslin are trimmed with
material IN cotton that LOOKS at first lik
black ribbon and ClunY lace. Some of these waist
are composed of mus in, lace, ana embroidery, an
are cut square at the throat; Others cross like
neckerchiei, and are made up of narroI tucks an
lace.
Hitherto 'he laces in use have been only black an
white But there nov to ue ChantlllY laces
various coOrs 70 please all tastes and suit all con
pleXiODs.-N. Y EUeniRg Post.