The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-07-14
THE WORLD OF FASHION.

The Latest Onicial Gazette-PAris NJ OdFs
for JuIy-New styles for Dresses and
Dress tsOOds-Ehe Novelties In Bon
nets. Etc.
From the Paris lie FoHet.
We are happy to announce a decided reac.
tlonary movement towards simplicity of attire.
There can be no question that luxury in dress
has, OF late, been indulged in to an alarming
excess. 1t Is, therefore, gratifying to observe
that the leaders of fashion now show decided
inclination to allow the ludiciously elegant to
replace the merely expensive. We no longer
see toilets covered ana sparkling with gold aud
silver, these theatrical ornaments having given
place to ribbons, flowers, laces, etc. The mate
rails most in vogue at the present moment are
lenos, mohair, alpaca and great variety OF
fancy materials, such as sultane, which is a mix
ture OF silk and wool. Foulards are, OF course,
immensely in request There is, perhaps, no
fabric so much worn. 1t is made in endless
varieties of quality and style, so as to suit the
taste and means OF every one. Moire antiques,
pOuH de sole, thick tahetas, and such heavy
materials, only suitable for colder weather all
have to give place TO the tOulard. Case de
Cbdnabely, mOuSsel5n de SOie, and other very
thin and expensive materials, are reserved ter
indoor or evening wear. White toilets are made
IN all fabrics, and have one great advantage
by changing the color of the ornaments, or the
style of their disposition, one can always give
them new appearance with very little expense
or trouble.
The skirts of all dresses, let the material be
what they may, are cut ON the bias. In case OF
their being muslins, or equally thin fabrics, the
back breadth is not gored. The slope OF the
side breadth is of course, put to the back, as it
would be under any circumstances. Indoor
dresses and tollettes de Vlsite have very long
trains aud are sloped round the bottom of the
skirt, and excessively plain at the hips. Bodies
also are not so very short-WaisJed as they were
a little time since; in fact, the efforts made by
a misguided few to introduce an eccentric style
of dress have tailed, ana the short waists and
lone, trailing dresses, clinglng round the feet
l rNaH fn uyhn n natl hnaf ffnfn 90
n axe any sacrifice OF taste and appearance in
order to attract attention or look different from
others.
A few weeks ago, ladies who could afford to
wear nine or ten bounced muslin petticoats
discontinued their crinolines; OF course this
made but very slight difference in the clrcum-
ference either at the bottom or top OF the SKIRT
as all these petticoats were so gored as to be
quite plain on the hips. The weather is now
so warm that great weight of skirts would
be unbearable; therefore, at the present mo-
ment, under thin dresses, one thick petticoat
and two thin ones are worn over small crino-
line under thick skirts two pettcoats, the one
next the cage being always white. There are
| two forms OF crinoline worn-one round and
| rather short for outof-door dresses when looped
up; the other rather larger, and with tram, for
indoor DRESS or when the SKIRT Is allowed to rest
on the ground.
The petticoats now are so much shown that
they are generally more ornamented than the
dresses. For morning toilets, they are gene
| rally made either OF the same material as the
| dress and paletot, or Of cashmere, the color OF
the ornaments on the dress. For more dressy
| occasions the petticoats are made of white or
| coored silk. The white petticoats worn under
| thin dresses are most elegaHt-little gautfered
| founces edged with lace; perpendicular tucks,
alternating with embroidered insertion or Cluny;
medallons of embroidery or guipuIe, over
| colored ribbons; in short, every day introduces
| some new and elegant manner of trimming
them. When the dress Is looped over petit
| coat for out-ot-door wear, the petticoat should
| not touch the ground, but be merely short dis
! lance from it. In some case the un1erskirt is
| made full length, with train, but then it is
intended for double skirt and not merely a
| petticoat.
The small black cashmere loose patelots, spot
| ted with beads, are not now so elegant or so
| fashionable as the small circulars of the same
| material, ornamented with beads, or edged
either with bead fringe or a lace founce.
Muslin and other thin dresses are generally
accompanied by mantles OF the same; these can
be made either circular cloaks, only reaching
| lust below the waist or small paletots quite
| loose or demi-adiuete, according TO the taste oi
| the wearer. When made IN these thin mate
| rials the Waistb band should never be worn out
side. For fetes or toilettes de visite black lace
| casaques, nearly tight-itting, are more elegantly
| worn than the black lace shawl that has been
SO long in favor Black silk mantles are not
much worn; they are intended more tor spring
or autumn wear.
There is not much alteration in the form oil
bonnets; the Galette, Lamballe, and Fanchon.
cite being most in favor. The latter is very
small "Fanchon," merely reacnlnR 10 Ine eng
non, not covering it; and slightly bent in front.
The Lamballe is perfectly round, but slightly
bent down at each side to the shape of the mead,
and generally has Marie Stuart front. The
Galette IS also perfectly round, but quite fiat,
not in any way taking the form of the head.
There is a very slight difference in the form
| of hats; they are worn In almost all shapes and
STYLES Flowers seem to be preferred to feathers
for trimming them, especially if they are in
tended for seaside wear. For morning hats,
flowers would, of course, be too dressy. On
these are worn small wings or straight feathers.
White bodies are of course more in request
| than ever, and are made in variety of mate
rials-cambric, foulard, alpaca, llama, and un
| bleached linen. For evening wear, thinner
| materials, such as Indian muslin, plain or EN-
| broidered. When made in these thin fabrics
they are generally arranged with Cluny oI
| Vaienciennes insertion over cOlored ribbon OF
velvet. We have seen some very pretty white
muslin bodies, corselet like the skirt Is gene
rally worn. They are made IN a variety o
forms, but undoubtedly the most elegant anC
recherche is the corselet Medici and pointeC
| peplum all cut In one. This should be made IL
the color of the trimmings OF patterns on thu
DRESS The whole body must, of course, have tn
same coloTed trimmings.