The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-11-22
the FASHIONS.

A Comp d'Etat In SILK Fsbrlcs-Plain
Silks Voted Out-Cut of the New Nate
rials-The Patterns to be Woven at
Lyons Tasteful Trimmings Hints
About Skirts and How to Cut Them
Winter Cloths and PaIetOts-TOilets
for a ROthschild, Etc.
Y PARIS November I'm consequence of the
great and widespread distress tet among the
Lyons silk weavers it has been proposed in
high quarters that in order to provide hun
dreds of unemployed workmen with labor, we
are not to be admitted into any fashionable
assembly in PLAIN silk robes. Tue richest bro
cade figured silk damask and brocatelles arc to
be adopted at court These rich silk fabrics
do not carry us more than twenty years
back, but the cut OF these materials Il
10 follow the styles favored under the Resto-
ration and in the beginning Of this CEN
Jury, when our gTandmothers had to learn
10 be graceful in very narrow skirts. That they
were so we may not doubt on closing the Me
]noirs OF the Duchess dAbrantes, In which, from
her description OF some OF the beauties under
the First Empire, some hope can be derived
wherewith to enliven the present state of affairs
BroCade Is very heavy. | therefore suggest that
your readers should enter into the spirit of the
conclave formed by women of taste in Paris,
and content then selves this winter with figured
silk III preference to damask.
Bouquets of flowers on appropriate grounds
will always be more tasteful and Womanly than
large spreading patterns. Should any pretty
philanthrOpist consider it duty to order in stiff
silk cloth, let her cover her sofas anew or use it
for window hangines, which expenditure will
quiet her conscience, etfectually relieve her
purse, and do the Lyons weavers world of
good
have seen some of the new patterns which
are to be manufactured on figured silks. The
following are perfectly artistc:-
Trails of colored crysanthemums on light
brown ground, white and violet periwinkles on
light emerald green. snowdrops on porcelain
blue, clusters OF lilac on very dark green, and
many Others.
The lily of the valley pattern, on long spear
Leaf is lovely with mauve. There are also
showers of miniature sprays all over black
corded silk, and black being. so fashionable, |
think both economy and style can be combined
in one of the latter. 1t may be as well to remind
your readers here that artists such as Gericault,
Cambron, and Thierry were silk designers at
Lyons before they became illustrious painters.
The piece of sultana that was manufactured
for the Empress last summer (pansles on white
ground), and OF which second piece was then
ordered for next years exhibition, is to be copied
on rich white grosmain for winter tollettes at
court. Nothing can be more tasteful than the
figured ribbons which are TO be used tor trim
mings, etc. particularly recommend the held
on wide Tallien sashes. / hear of ladies at the
Tuileries Who in fits OF unbounoed beneyolence
mot extravagance), are bent on appearing next
season at all the court festivities IN lmmeasura-
bic lengths of the richest Lyons material.
| hope your readers will be advised TO prefer
a sober GIsplay of ribbons, though they can be
8 of the richest, and it would be we'll If there
r could be some degree of unity in every lady's
choice. The flower adopted should also be in
harmony with the wearer's turn of mind, thus
converting her into an animated violet, migno-
nette, or heliotrope. The perfume on her laces
should even be that of her favorite flower, and
the bead-dress OF course In keeping with the
r&t. This may be thought ideal, and called
poetry fit is so, all is we'll We were so very
prosaic in jockey attire that the change will
perhaps be acceptable.
While walking down the BouleVards few
days ago, | observed that our gored fitting
skirts over colored plisse petite oats are either
graceful or very much the contrary There are
ladies in Paris who will adopt every new
fashion without any consideration as to age or
proDor,Ion A stout lady, with foot that may
not be compared to anything aerial, should
really not have her skirts so deeply lndened, SO
painfully fiat as her elegant daughter, who
trips on by her side, with all the degd9e grace
Every breadth should be cut aslant ever
were the stuff but half yard wide. The widtf
round the bottom OF an entirely fat skirt shCul(
only be ten centimetres wider than the top cir
4 cumference. Ladies who are no longer quite
young should wear their skirts hat IN the IRON
and on the sides, but allow two deep plats II
be made at the back, and one or two little one
under each arm. In this case the bottom of
gored skirt should be fifty centimetres wide
than the top. The usual width of gored dresse
mot fOaSTedUI) is six metres and a half.
The new winter tuIted cloths have come ou
in ali shades though black is preferred for tn
prevailing paletotzsac. Inc Polar bears heec
plush described a few weeks ago VIII be tn
richest material for full dress. 1t is often rboe
with velvet in the newest shaues, Wnlcn ar
called golden rain, !loupfurine, CUR, and peac
glow. Circulars of any OF these produce
most sumptuous effect.
% The three different fawn tints now so fashion
able have received somewhat singular demon
nations, thus:-The hghtcst tawn isicalled "Bi
mark in Bad Humor;' the second, degrt
darker, ''Bismark Very Cross" and the darke
shade of ALL "Bismark Very Bad" After this
would be as we'll to give up fawns as there al
so many other statesmen who never sho W Ia
trums. may as we'll say that the newest fas
ionable wittlcism which "court les salons" is
- me le dendnde" II will never be so popular
s'I,ambert" but il means about as much.
A few splendid toilets have left Paris f
Ferrieres which IS the private property of Il
Baron j. de RotEschild. Three days of u
eaualled pageantry are to be held in his prince
~ chateau.
The Venetian style of all the most elega
dresses was remarkable --slashed satin, Gen
yelyets Maltese lace, medi@yal jenkins, a
W either very tight or very wide Jewess sleev
One half dress I will describe from among
IN large number of short tarlatans, which are
he worn only by dancers, and tearfully lo
train robes, covered with ruche, embrode
fnlle. tufted chenille, and marabout
The robe / admired the most was made
straw-colored poult de sole, but of the "
Iightest shade almost cream color. 1t was
~ ,rir raaa torn and scollOped round