The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-09-15
FASHIONABLE INTELLIGENCE CE.



wrote last article. Muslins and chambery Vauzet
now very seldom seen out oil doors, but are kep'
tef indoor and evening wear Lnere IS q sngnt IN
eellle pOnceau, and cherry color, in place OF the
apple green, high, blue, and pink so much worn thus
Dresses for outdoor wear generally have the skrtt
lOoped up over pettcoat of the same coler, or one
ahas contrasts PTety Wh hat S Oh toe aIes Fo n,
In door dress the rls are as long and full round
the hem they have been lately. They are very
scanty round the waist and, OF course always very
much gored. some skirts made without any
plaits at all round the waist, and are sewn plainly
into the band, a basque would be. Others are
quite plain at the front and sides, and have few
plaIts at the back They are generally sloped at the
bottom OF the skirt merely touching the ground in
front.
The fashion of making dresses with double skirts
is RAPIDLY gaining grounds if made in suitable mate.
rails and astefUlly disposed, It is certainly very
elegant style 1t is not improbable that the one deep
hOnnce on the skirt may reappear; 30, IL VIII not
~ at all full and will come merely to the seams of
the front breadth. This is q very becoming style,
and in q rich material looks very handsome. We
have one very elegant dress made this way; it
was of very fine Indian muslin, the hounce half a
yard deep, and composed OF alternate pufings on
muslin and guipure insertions. Above the Aounoe
toinette, made like the flounce, fastened behind
with two long and broad sash ends. ~
The bodies of dresses are made round and plain II
the material is at all thick, with basque or peplu
fastened to band, so that the body can De w9Ih wI
with or without II. Some peplums are mace win
the deepest parts at the sde this nener M Ts so ey s
giant in appearance so becoming to the ngure as
when they cut with the deepest point y. ,t uno
back The prettest basque we have seen was qui,e h
plain round the waist 1t had one deep pOlnb hs uie
middle of the back; then followed out coming 70
another point but not so deep, on each up t Sne
front, which was open, had point at eaon sIuS'
Many bodies are made square or open en- CGari ana
worn over lace or muslin guimpe; .,,,, h5
There is no Rartlcnary nOvTa ade m 40 many STYLES
that TuventIon seems to have exhausted ltse1 lhey
are always accompanied by pastron or corseleti OF
the latter those with bIetelles ana epaulets are oe
cidedly most in favor as they are more becoming
and elegant IN appearance -. = -,
There Ia not the least change In the form OF trim
ming the nantes this month. We think they are
likely to be worn larger as the winter approaches;
There also but slight difference IN tne mats ana
bonnets, the "FachOnettes" and "Lambelles' being
The fayOrite shapes for the latter
Striues of all widths stl in great favor. but we
think they are likely to become very common before
long Small chine punches of flowers and patterns
Of all kinds also much in request lew descrlp-
fons of the toilets we have seen would perhaps give
our readers better idea oil the moues than Renerai
remarks on the subject, -.-
white 1oulaId, with groseille stripes quarter Of
an inch wide. The skirt, very long and tull, IS
trimmed with q chcoree ruche OF grosellle silk
placed on the hem in lozenges: Hgn Oody open en-
CRur, and trimmed round with a ruche. Corselet
and peplum basque OF grOsee six, cut out IN square
tahs and trimmed with guipure. The basque is
about sixteen inches deep IN front, where it IS
closed with crystal buttons but is very much deeper
Another dress was of white alpaca. The pethcoat,
Of the same reached just below the top OF tne Doot
and was vandyked and bound with apple green vel
vet The overskirt was plainly hemmed and looped
mn in five places by "Directoie" bows of green vel
vet. High body, and long tight sleeves, fastened
with velvet buttons. plating OF velvet Is placed
on the body in the form OF cOrseet, and continued
on to the epaulettes. Small paetot OF white paca
trimmed round with plating of velvet, with bow
and long floating ends at the back OF the throat.
White rice straw hat raised at one side with small
bunch of green grass, moss, aud crystal dewdrops
hauye SATIN dress, perfectly plain the front and
sides of the SKIRT Down each seam IS guipure in-
sertion insertion is also placed round the SKIRT
The body was open In front, and was trimmed to
~ Anac clr.u INU,tr,t hand fRa
waist This very elegant dress was accompanied by
a white tulle "LRmballe" trimmed with crystal
drops and fern leaves. - ,r..-,-.
very long aud full is trimmed up the back seam
with black ribbon, three inches wide. On this at
intervals are placed small diamonds Oh olack velVet
edged with Ciuny; IN the centre OF each diamond IS
q nacre button. The body quite plain and nlgh,
with small coatseeves, epauletes, and band down
the front Ike that on the skirt. Cuns 10 match
Peplum basque with five points, trimmed round to
correspond with the BODY and fastened at the
waist by black velvet band covered VITA CiunY.
The SKIRT is looped by pattes of ribbon, with three
velvet diamonds edged with Ciuny. The pettcoat
Is OF white alpaca, trimmed with Cluny over black
Biue foulard petticoat, reaching just below the
top OF the boot, with small plating OF black SILK.
Over-skirt OF black silk, fastened down the front
with buebutons and ooped in five places by pattes
OF blue silk worked with black beads. High Dodv
and long sleeves, fastened with blue buttons. Pas
trOn of blue silk, worked with black beads. Blue
cachemire circular, worked with beads
Grey foulard dress with two skirisj the lower one
short and quite plain. The oversklrt Is VandyKeo
or bound with traced blue velvet II IS looped up az
each side by broad pate, vandyked oil round, and
fastened at the waist. In each VandyKe Is VeVet
button. The skirt is also fastened down the front
with velvet buttons. Very small loose paletot made
70 correspond with the skirt.
Apple-ereen silk dress, with low body and short
sleeves The skirt quite plain. Over this Is muslin
dress about quarter Of yard shorter than the
Dnderskirt. The hem is cut IN broad seallops ana
sdgeG Tn Of lined %b green rpSon
equal distances on the bouIllonne are placed lace
butterf es, lined with green Echu Mare An.
tOinette" Of muslin trimmed round with bolllonnes
and butte rifles, the sash-ends having small huted
White silk with small punches Of red curranti
and dead leaves The skirt is open at every seam
each breadth being turned back and fastened wltl
crystal button. Under each opening Is plect
OF plain white silk. trimmed with perpendcula
bands OF velvet, the color of currants. White mus
lin body of alternate pu1s OF Indian muslin ant
f S"pTTS PTs R's on
trimmed round with red velvet, on which ar
placed medalnons OF gulpure' NO sleeVes' pu
epaulettes of velvet and lace. .
For outdoor wear tnis dress has small circular {
white silk, with deep founce oil white gplpur'
Above this Is a velvet with medallIons of lac
White tulle "Lamballe," bound with red velvet, an
trimmed with currants and crystal. Wmte sI
parasol, trimmed with lace and velvet to match Il
Light brown ioulard, with small black crescen
and stars The skirt is made quite plain, ana loopt
up ali round over paln heht brown ioulard Oh
brOldered in black silk with patterns OF crescen
and stars on q larger scale than those on the upp
Sklrt our Danus oil Dlack NeiYet IaSIeIeu NJ u
waist, and serve TO loop up the dress. They are eI
brOdered in hight brown silk, and when the dress
not loOped up are allowed to hang on the skirt. Hi
body, with plain coat seeves loops OF velvet on d
shoulders Small pa eliot OF light brown cachemil
spotted WITH black beads Black crinolIne hat WI
blue feather.
Another travelling dress was of violet cachemil
slightly scollOped round the hem. and edged witt
violet and white cord. Suspended from the wa
were five loops of cord through which the drt
was drawn in Iestoons The body was high, a
was trimmed with loops of cord across the fro
az nO ghOuIiaFg m
cacbemiTe paletot, simply edged with cord, W
round hood lined with violet silk. White straw