Cleveland daily leader. [volume] ([Cleveland, Ohio]) 1865-1873, 1866-05-04
LETTER FROM CUBA.
A Days Cruising and Ruralizlns.
Letter from a Lady.l
HOTEL SANTA YsABEL,
HAVANA. March 8th.

HAVANA, MaIch 6th-
Crossed the Island from south to north
by rail, the road running through a
pleasant bat level country, far as we
could sec covered with cane fields, and We
were scarcely ever out of sight of the talI
chimney of some Ingenio. Near the sta
tions is usually cluster of the houses Of
the small farmers, made sometimes with
sides of wood, generally of palm leaves,
the roof being thatehed with the foot
stalks of the same.
At Las Cruces is thicket Of trees COW
cred with parasitic plants, the Usnea
Verbata, which seems equally at home in
tropic heats and polar SHOWS, vines Of
various kinds that completely enveiop &
tree and run from one to another forming
bowers of verdure, snd, strangest of all,
what are called air-plants, bulbs with
leaves like an Amaryllis and which grow
in masses often many feet in diameter and
bear gorgeous flowers. These are found
quite as frequently upon dead as upon
living trees. A branch Of dead tree
was given me that had been cut more
than month, yet the bright purple
orchis-like flowers and leaves were per-
fectly fresh.
Spent night at sagua Ia Grande where
I was again the only one of womankind
about the premises and where nothing but
Spanish is spoken. The town is small,
built mostly of wood, and has nothing re-
markable but the church, said to be the
finest on the island, with altars, pulpit and
floor of exquisite marble The baptistery
has a fine font and painting of the bap-
tism of Christ, finer than anything We
have seen in the way of church decora-
ton. Just opposite the church Is the
Vale de Gallas and quite sermon
came into my mind upon the sub
jeet of the perverted tastes and
low state Of civilization in this
country of cock and bull tights; but while
waiting for dinner CHANGED to read in
Spanish paper, of dog fight that had
been witnessed in western city by q
large concourseof people," and where the
sanguinary contest was prolonged till it
resulted in the death of both eombatants."
tried to fiattsr myself that only very
10 people Guild be parties to such pro-
ceeding, but unfortunately l had heard
that in our mOther-land lords temporal
and spiritual patronize /" the turf" and
those arenas where two-legged brutes are
pitted against each other and concluded
to defer my reflections upon Cubsn
manners and morals.
At Sagua, as at Cienfuegos, there are
no idlers and no beggars Here in the
small shops we find many Coolies as pro-
prietors. How they have managed to be-
come independent know not for the
law is that when their term of service ex-
pires they must at once find new master,
be baptized or leave the country. Failing
to do one of these things they go into the
chain gang.
Took steamer at the mouth of the
Sagua and sailed among the keys Of the
North shore, often so near the land as ak
most to touch the overhsnging trees and
in water so shallow we could see the bot
tom, yet when We crossed an opening be-
tween the islands the waves from the At
lantic tossed our little boat like cookie
shell. -
We met on the boat the Superintend-
ent Of the gold mines at Guarscabuza,
who showed Us specimens of the ore and
told us tales of its richness that excelled
the early stories of California treasures.
Fell into my first sleep with the idea
we were to have very comfortable night
in our little seven-by-nine cabin. Was
awakened by the din of many voices,
which continued weary while, accom-
panied with smoking and expeetoratiOn.
With pened windows, though the wind
wa b wing gale managed to survive
the night, but came to the conclusion ]
preferred Sagua with no women to the
boat with the specimens whom the chances
of travel mad thrown in my way.
Breakfasted at Cardenas, the only towh
on the island that has erected a statue to
the memory of Columbus, and took the
cars to Matanzas, thence by the shorter Of
the two railroads to Havana. This road
runs through a beautiful country with
few plantations, but many grazing
farms, belts of timber, avenues of palms,
and quantities of fruit-bearing trees,
among them oranges loaded with their
golden balls.
At night were set down at our old
quarters at the Santa Ysabel, and were
soon dining beside our charming little
fountain. Z. N. D.