Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1866-07-18

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very long trains, and are sloped round
the bottom Of the skirt. and excessively
plain at the hips. Bodies are not sc
very short-waisted as they were little
time since in fact, the efforts made by
misguided few to introduce an eccentric
style of dress have failed, and the short
waists and the long trailing dresses
clinging round the feet are confined to
those who do not hesitate to make any
sacrifice Of taste and appearance in order
10 attract attention or look different from
others.
A few weeks ago, ladies' who could
afford to wear nine or ten hounced mus
lin petticoats discontinued their erino-
lines; of course this made but very
slight difference in the circumference
either at the bottom or top Of the skirt,
all these petticoats are so gored as to
be quite plain on the hips. The weather
is now so warm that so great weight of
skirts would be unbearable; therefore,
at the present moment, under thin
dresses, one thick pettieoat and two thin
ones are worn over small crinoline,
under thick skirts two petticoats, the one
nextthe cage being always white. There
are two forms of crinoline worn-one
round and rather short for out of door
dress when looped upi the other rather
larger, and with train, for in door dress
or when the dress is allowed TO rest on
the ground The petticoats are now so
much shown that they are generally more
ornamented than the dress For morn
ing toilets they are generally made
either Of the same material as the dress
and paletot, or Of cachemire the color of
the ornaments on the dress. For more
dressy occasions the petticoats are made
Of white or colored silk. The white pet
ticoats worn under thin dresses are most
elegant-little gauffered ilounces edged
with lace; perpendicular tucks, alternat-
ing with embroidered insertion or Cluny;
medallions of embroidery or gulpure,
over colored ribbons in short, every day
introduces some new and elegant man
ner of trimming them. When the dress
is looped over,a petticoat for out-of-door
wear, the petticoat should not touch the
ground, but be merely short distance
from it In some cases the under skirt
is made full length, with train, but then
it is intended for a double skirt, and not
merely petticoat.
For morning.wear the paletots are al
most always of the same material as the
dress. They are sometimes made loose
and short, with or withouta hood, but
always with sleeves. With this form a
white body is worn with the skirt. When
there is body to the skirt, to obviate
the necessity of wearing an extra cover
ing out of doors, pepulum basque is
made separate from the body, and, being
sewn on to a narrow ribbon, is fastened
round the body under the waistband
The small black eachemire loose pale
tots, spotted with beads, are not now so
elegant or so fashionable as the small
circulars OF the same material, orna-
mented with beads, or edged either with
a bead irings or lace hounce
Muslin and other thin dresses are gen.
orally accompanied by nantes of the
same These can be made either cireu-
larscloaks, only reaching just below the
waist, or small paletots, quite loose or
demi-ajuste, according to the taste of the
wearer When made in these thin ma
terials, the waistband should never be
worn outside gnr .
For fetes or toilets de visite, black lace
casaques, nearly tightitting, are more
elegantly worn than the black lace shawl
that has been so long in favor
Black silk mantles are not much worn
They are intended more for spring or
autumn wear $3.50
There is not much alteration in the
form of bonnets, the Galleite Lamballe,
and Fanchonette being most in favor
The latter is very small Fanchon,
merely reaching q the chiguon, not Gov
ering it, and slightly bentin front. The
Lsia6aie is perfectly round but slightly
bent down at each side to the shape of
the head, and generally has a Marie
Stuart front The Gsllette is also per-
fectly round, but quite fiat, not in any
way taking the form of the head.
There is very slight difference in the
form of hats they are worn in almost
all shapes and styles. Flowers seem to
be preferred to feathers for trimming
them, especially If they are intended for
seaside wear For morning hats, flowers
would, of course, be too dressy. On
these are worn small wings or straigh,
feathers
White bodies are Of course more in re-
quest than ever, and are made in vati
ETY. of materials-eambrie, foulard, al
paca, lama, and unbleached linen For
evening wear, thinner materials, such as
Indian muslin, plain or embroidered.
When made in these thin fabrics, they
are generally arranged with Cluny or
Valenciennes insertion ever colored rib
bon or velvet We have seen some very
pretty white muslin bodies with perpen-