The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-09-21
FASHIONS FOR THE FALL.

The New Era in Millinery-New Fashions in
Hair Novelties in Parasols - The Reign Of
'Tilhng" Hoops Over.
r Summer is over in the world of fashions, and
the regular opening Of the fan styles has taken
place. There are many changes in the shapes
and trimming of ladies' bonnets. The admirers
Of the summer bonnets have looked forward
anxiously TO the 'grest opening" lest the
changes decreed by fashion should not be be-
coming and graceful; but to-day the milliners
are prepared to answer all inquiries.
There has never been a greater variety of
STYLES than now; there is something to please
the fancy of every purchaser and to suit every
style of features but whether or not the fashions
will suit every purse is another question. The
prices do not vary much from those of last year,
and there is no prospect of cheaper bonnets; the
duty on imported goods and the price of gold
with other causes, combining to keep millinery
goods at high mark. There is the usual variety
of colors, but the leading ones will be green and
English magenta.
The Styles.
A tasteful evening hat is of white material
Catalan shape, and trimmed with purple velvet.
The strings are edged with white lace and there
is purple and white flower on the top, with a
smaller flower in the centre of the bandeau TO
correspond with that on the outside.
with white, a necklace of velvet, with Jet orna-
ments and fall of white lace in front. Another
style is white bonnet, trimmed with a row OF
fringes across the upper part of the Gro wn,
made of marabout and pearls white marabout
across the back and pearl pendants around the
entire edge.
An elegant style is in black velvet, trimmed
with Jet and velvet, and made in new shape.
The front is somewhat like that OF the cottage
style, with wide crown closely fitting at the
back of the head; and this will probably be the
prevailing style later in the season. A hat of
white marabout trimmed with pink velvet is
tasteful and attractive.
Most of tae round hats are of turban shane.
which is becoming only to pretty or youthful
faces. There appears to be no winter style III
round hats FOR plain faces, the genius of fashion
having forgotten them.
The MARIE STUART style, for misses is made
OF blue royal velvet, with long blue strings
white lace 0arbe passing around the front and
falling In long ends over the blue strings;
cluster OF crystal pansies forms the inside trim
ming.
A hat known as ola INCRoYABLE" is of white
royal velvet, adorned with lDauve flowers with
crystal pendants; velvet band covered with
white lace forming the inside trimming. II has
wide mauve strings, and narrow grass ribbon
stTeamers OF the same shade, and a white mara
bout fringe at the back.
white silk-Catalan shape-is trimmed with
purple flowers, with lace barbe falling over
purple velvet strings; pendant purple flowers,
having rings attached to be worn in the ears to
hAuNSu OuO OutSluC Ills Is d u6Clueu
novelty.
One of the new styles is curious, and cannot
be easily copied; indeed, at first it puzzled the
milliners. IL consists OF single piece of white
satin shirred over Catalan frame, with apurple
velvet wreath ornamenting the edge.
The LAMBELLA is one OF the new shapes and
may be seen in all the show windows.
In round hats the PoMPADoUR is exhibited as
novelty. 1t is of black velvet with point in
front and one at each side. A wreath OF white
velvet flowers ornaments the edge.
As half the effect OF the prettiest bonnet is
spoiled If the hair is not tastetully and becom.
lngly arranged, 1t may not be Inappropriate, in
connection with bonnets, to give the style of
wearing the
Hair.
For full dress curls will be much worn, with
out the waterfall" The front halr is arranged
in water curls, or in waVy putfs. The front hair
ls also worn in smooth pufs, but this is not be-
coming to all styles of features. There several
dltferent modes e. arranging the waterfall, 70
suit the fancy of the wearer. IL may oe COM
posed of several small putfs, or two or three, or
two narrow bands crossing it, which give it the
appearance of pufis. But coils were ruled out
some lime since, and though occasionally we
see one detying the fiat of fashion, yet they are
decidedly out of style.
Parasols.
When the small parasols, gorgeously decorated
with gold and jet, were introduced, 1t may have
been thought nothing prettier could be pro-
duCed. But parasols for the fall, following in
Ine mdTCu Ol nave COHG Oul ldnCl-
fully adorned than at the spring opening. They
are small, lined with white, or some contrast
ing color, and ornariented with feathers and
Tnarabouts. A black silk parasol has row of
black and white feathers near the edge, and one
not far from the top. A purple silk is trimmed
with white maraOout, and blue silk with blue
and white. They are pretty, but expensive.
ClOaks.
1t is rather early TO speak decidedly of the
styles for coaks 10 be worn later In the season.
The opening for cloaks, ETC., takes place in
October
Hoop Skirts.
AS we have seen those disgraceful and abomi-
nable 'nlting" hoops, we have mentally asked
how long will we punished with them? The
question is now answered, and the fat of fashion
has gone forth for their abolishment, and we
breathe easier.
The style of the "EMPREss TRAIL" of BRADLEY's
Duplex Skirts, for wearing with goped dresses,
has been altered. The skirt is narrowed around
the bottom, for the fall and winter season, from
Al and 81 to 80 and So yards, with prospect Of
still further reduction. The pride OF THE
WORLD and "PARIs GRAIL for riding, house,
and general use, vary from 81 to yards in cir
cumference at the bottom, with the same de-
Creaslng tendency.
A SINGULAR OCCURRENCE