The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-08-06
THE PROCESS OF MANUFACTURE.
EtC.. Etc.. GtO.. Etc.. INTO.
IN TBB BEGINNING.

IN TIE BEGINNING.
When that quaint old gentleman, surnamed
Diedrich Knickerbocker, wrote his yeritable
history OF New York, he proceeded upon first
principles, and commenced at the creation of
the world In this article upon that portion of
mans and woman's attire which is termed a
collar, we shah follow his ilustrions example
But here at tue very outset, we find ourselves at
a loss for materials. We have diligently searched
all the ilustrious histories OF Rome and Greece
as well rs the pictorial records of the Jews, and
Of the Gentle tribes surrounding them and yet
we have ialled utterly to discover anything
which either BY courtesy or comfort on could be
denominated a collar. The ancient Egyptians
it is true, sou etlmes wore a deep necklace
which, among the Pharaohs and Other person.
ages OF royal extraction, was usually composed
Of gold, and varieggted with gems of the first
water. This is the nearest approach to the collar
which ancient history affords.
1t cannot be disputed that the anc;ents were
in this one respect at least, much wiser than
their degenerate descendants. One OF the first
laws of health proscrbes The wearing of any
thing about the neck which frs it as tightly
do the collars OF the nineteenth century. But
as ones health is a subject of minor Importance
when ones personal appearance IS at stake, we
fear it VIII prove unprodtable TO pursue this
branch of the subject az any greater LENGTH.
The COLLAR BADGE OF sERvITUDE.
When we SAID that we could discover in the
ancient styles of dress no traces of the modern
collar, we must be understood Ns referring
solely to that portion of the community who
were at liberty to determine for themselves the
general cut and trim OF their apparel. That
unfortunate class of people who, in all ages and
among all nations, have been desponed of
nearly all the rights and privileges of their
manhuod--tbe same beng denomlndted helots,
Vileins, serfs, slaves, or servants, as the case
may have been-haVe been accustomed to wear
a collar about their throats from time imnemo-
nal. II was, indeed, in early times, the lnva-
rable badge OF servitude. Even our iorefqthers
those sturdy Anglo-Saxon yeomen upon a
descent from whom we 80 greatly pride our
selves-Were not exempt from this degrading
practice. In the books of the early chroniclers
we find repeated reference to the collar thus
worn. 1t was usually made of iron, and fitted
as neatly to the throat as the collar of a dog in
these modern days. Sometimes 1t even bore an
inscription, declaring to all who might d asire to
rcBd the name and owner of the human cnaJtel
about whose neck il was securely welded.
Sometimes the collar was formed OF SILVER, and
in rare instances of gold itself but this extrava
gance was displayed only Oy those whose
worldly substance was very great, and as
mark of especial favor to the serf or villein, as
he was then and there called.
THE COLLAR A BADGE OF NOBILITY.
The use of the collar as a badge of servitude
survived the Middle Ages, but subsequent
thereto it was rarely used Tor that purpose.
This was probably owing to the fact that it
gradually came 10 be worn as a mark OF gen
tihty and of noble blood. The transition is
almost unaccountable, unless we choose to refer
this last practice back to the dYnasties of ancient
Egypt, and to trace 1T thence in uninterrupted
succession. Ii may be easy enough to do this,
but we shall not attempt it here.
However, we find that almost all those valiant
men who tilted the lance in the tournay, and
eourted death for the sake OF fair lady's smile
were accustomed to wear collar or chain o
gold, emblematic of the order of knighthood tc
which they severally belonged This collar was
usually set with various and mysterious devices
or clphers and bore as an appendage the badge
or insignia OF the brotherhood. Thus the
KNIGHTS OF the Garter wore, as they still veal
when they appear in full regalia, collar which
is yariegated with red-enameed roses, set OF
by garter, enamelel in blue. The figure o
st. George bangles below, to remind the wearel
of his sworn devotion to deeds of a marVellou
and martial character But in these days w
imagine that this last insinuation is considered
as somewhat sarcastic in its bearing.
In the Republic OF Venice there was also al
order known as the Knighthood OF the Collar
called also the Order of st. Mark or the Medal
The august Doge himself was the head OF thi
fraternity and with his own hands placed th
collar about the necks OF his subordinates
is said by the chroniclers of the period tina
these knights wore no particular habit, bein
distinguished simply by the collar, to which wa
attached medal bearing figure OF the wInge
Lion of the Republic.
THE DAWN OF THE TRUE COLLAR ERA.
II was not, however, until the spirit OF chiValr
we refer to that of the ancient sort aIOne-Wa
nearly extinct that the genuine collar cam