Evening star., 1866-04-19
EVENING STAR.
EUROPEAN FASH 81 Of Papis,

WAIST the front and sides. Al any /, styles in
vogue, the a. Princesse " and the ~ % 20 IN
+ or most figures we give the preferen ar the
former, which has only one large plait hias'
back: while the second b entirely on IN. t.,'
like q long casaque. and is certainly grac. ss
there being nothing to mark the waist;
.. Fourrean is, therefore less becoming thai '
the {" Princesse." For both.sty the long train
The size Of the crinoline is very .ensibly di-
minished. but 10 cannot be altogether dispensed
with while the dresses are SO very long.
Nothing can sustain them so well as the cage,
though that may be Of very small dimensions.
The fashion, also, Of looping dresses up over
the petticoats out Of doors, VI which will certainly
crinoline Indispensable in order to sustain them
gracefully.
woolen fancy materials are making their ap-
pearance FOR the spring season; but thar which
sutl as always, meets with the greatest success
is the foulard. There is no doubt IL will be the
fayorife, being at once SO firm and yet so light
and the patterns in such variety; IL is suitable
for visiting and soiree dress as well as for robes
de chambre The foulard double chaine is es-
pecially charming OF such solidity OF texture.
IL equals tanetas, and in one sense Is preferable
being more durable. The white fouiard double
chaine is beautiful, of such pearly whiteness.
A fourreau made of this, without any orna-
ment but white silk cord round the bottom.
and trimming the body and sleeves, forms a
simple yet charming dress. Cashmere toullard
of patterns Of bouquets, "Watteau" " style, or
stripes OF violet, re- or black, are reserved for
robes de chambre, which are made with loose
flowing skirt, hneo with the same color as the
stripes.
The simple spring dresses will not be mach
trimmed-pattes, or lozenges. or silk pipings
VIII be all the ornament-but for richer ma
ierlals the various kinds of passementerie will
be in requisition. By passementrie our readers
must not understand the gimp of former days
merely, but silk cords mixed with gold, canoes.
fringes, crystal jet and mother Of pearl PEN
dants in erdless variety.
The rage for Cluny lace has produced many
pretty white basiste and muslin bodies, trim
med with it, and for small reunions they are
much spoken OF; but 1t must be said that black
lace is preferable for evening wear. excepting,
perhaps, for quite young ladies. They are
made with basquines of wide lace, and, if de-
sired. a sash or band may be worn over them:
but they are always high, and sometimes made
open little way down the front.
As 10 sleeves, when worn at all, they are
quite small and straight, with an insertion up
the seam but these casaques are as frequently
made without as with sleeves. OF course this
depends upon the taste of the wearer.
We commence our list of dresses this month
with some full toilets for out of door wear.
A robe Of steel gray poplin, with a band of
green taffetas round the bottom, rounded and
carried up the front with a row of green but
tons each side. Fitting paletot of the same
material with q bias Of green taffetas up eyery
seam. pamela bonnet Of green tplle, worked
with crystal beads
A dress of violet faille; at the bottom OF the
SKIRT nounce put on in groups Of three plaits,
and headed by a band of velvet Of the same
shade, with Jet ornaments upon it. A similar
band up every seam. Casaque Of the same
basquines slashed and trimmed to match. Vel.
vet ceinture. Fanchon bonnet of velvet Grape.
with Jet chain trimming it.
A" "Prlncese" dress OF violet poult de sole.
Round the bottom a hounce of black guipure,
wide In the front, but grad ually narrowing TO.
wards the back, so that round the train il is
quite narrow. Casaque TO match the dress,
with basQues slashed up, so as to make five
different ends, completely separate and trim.
med round with guipure. Pamela" bonnet
entirely composed Of shaded violets Benoiton
chain Of jet.
A morning toilet of Knickerbocker, pale vlo-
let dress, short paletot, and underskirt, all Of
the same material At the bottom of the lower
skirt plating Of violet taffetas. Upon the
dress, 81 each seam, pate rather wide at the
waist, and ending in three points with tassels,
which fall over the bottom skirt. Paletot trim
med with revers Of taffetas. Fanchon bonnet
of velvet tulle. Three bouillons, separated by
A dark gray dress oftaffetas. worked all over
with small crystal heads, and round the bottom
an embroidery Of beads, forming grecque.
Long casaQue Of the same, trimmed to match.
A Pamela" bonnet Of pink Grape; the back
formed with feather. which falls over the
chignon. The feather is fastened by triple
row of crystal beads, which is joined at the
sides, and falls over the strings in three rows,
a Ia Benoiton.
A robe Of black plush; long train, quite plain.
and pIped with maize -eolored satin. Pamela
bonnet Of maize velvet
dress Of taffstas, "a Princesse" make; wide
stripes of two shades OF green. Up each seam
trimming of Cluny guipure, laid fiat. Two
rows Of Cluny mp the front and round the
throat. Sash tied in bow behind, and with
long ends, trim med round with wide Cluny.
Tight sleeves, with Cluny trimming.
A " Princesse " robe Of green moire. At the
bottom Of the skirt seven small rouleaux OF
here and there by a strap of green velvet, trim.
med with q crystal fringe. Casaque Of the
same, trimmed to match. and with a band OF
velvet and a bow trimmed with crystal fringe.
Fanchen bonnet of green tuIle, spotted with
crystal beads and Benoiton chain of crystal.
light brown taffetta dress, with double
skirt-the under shirt having round the bottom
velvet founce of deeper shade, plated in
groups OF three plaits. The upper skirt is
caught up by pattes of velvet and large mother
of-pearl buttons. Casaque TO match, with mos
velvet, trimmed with mother of pearl buttons
White tulle Pamela" bonnet, with pearl fringe
and wreath Of golden pleasant feathers. Ban.
deau OF feathers and white strings.
Dinner dress Of silver gray satin-sPrinc cesse''
make-uImmed all up the front with double
row OF white satin pufs let in the material, and
edged round with black lace. Similar trim
miDss, on smaller scale, up the seams of the
slee ives, and fancy buttons Of silver.
Evening dress Of white poult de sole. Skirt
on the bias, with trimmings up the seams OF
rose color and white ruches, pinked Bottom
OF the skirt trimmed round with double ruches
OF tulle to match. Similar ruches round the
TOP or the low body. Gimp Of Brussels appli-
cation. -
A robe of green satin and white tuIle in
stripes; the tulle being boufilonne, and the satin
cut from the piece in long bands, and placed
engthways mp The skirt. A row Of lar ee pearls
placed mp each seam, joining the tulle 70 the
Sam. Tue skirt Is very wide. and with a long
ualn Body Of bouillons Of tutle, and ceinture
aIenfant OF green satin, trimmed with pearl
ornaments Small boulllonnees sleeves n
a dress OF white tulle, trimmed round the
bottom with wide blue satin ribbon fringed
with gold sequms. Tunic OF blue and gold
striped sattn- very short in front with court
train, also trimmed with blue satin and SEQ DIN
fringe. Body Of tulle, draped. :
ga raid was made ON the jail In Pittsfis,d.
Pike county, Illinois, last week. by a numbeT
of men. at midnight, scaling the walls AND
making q hole in the roof TO let them sel YES in
then, breaking through another ceiling. they
reached the upper tier Of cells, where thew in.
quired Of the prisoners Tor prisoner named
Evans, under indictment fer murder but he
had been taken away to Brown county They
were very angry 1T their failure 70 release him
They released and took away with them thres
other prisoners and left for parts uAknowr
without being discovered.
ga gentleman at Indianapolis, somewha
addicted TO the ardent on the sly, made a raj.
vi srnD fv sh 10 hof1e Of fria "A