The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-04-03
THE WORLD OF FASHION.
VERNAL MODES FOR DRESSES.


eIry, ParasOls, Hoops. Collars, Etc.
The spring Styles not only in bonnets, which havo
been described, but IN dresses and dress materials
oOaks shaws, laces and the thousand and one arti-
ces that make up lady's wardrobe, are now pretty
well established There have never been richer as
soItments or more tasteful goods than are now on
exhibition, manufactured, or ready to be converted
There is a tendency to revive styles long since
looked upon as too aniquated Tor resurrection III
does not appear, either III millinery or dress goods,
that any one color is decided iaYortej but green
ue, lavender, and grey will be the prevailing
hades. The tlnsel ornaments which cost 30 much
tarnshed so quickly and always lad vulgar
appearance, are displaced by canoes, medalhons,
an Jet pendants, and, TO considerable extent, by
the material known as vulcamte jewelry.
SILKS.
In silks the styles are neat and elegant. Chenes
have rt rtappeared ana rival in beauty the dotted pat
terms but stripes IN the richer qualities much
sought after, There are narrow stripes, and wide
snowy stripes very becoming to some figures; but
perhaps the most aomired are those OF medium
width, comparatively few ladies choosing style
decidedly conspicuous.
Among The new designs is one in lavender. On
the material narrow stripes ef cuny lace are wrought
A novelty is ground of delicate pearl co or, with
the figure OF hall moon in scarlet wreathed IN
flowers Another Is OF the same shade with designs
which at the first glance eem only of flowers; out
q oser scrutiny reVeois human hgure, with iOided
arms and gypsy hat sitting among the 1owers This
material Is costlya fact chiefly relied on to recon-
mend il TO favor. Robes, IN silks are becoming very
fashionable. number Of these robes, of beautiful
designs, and in green, pearl color, blue ONYX, and
ported ana so great was the demand for them that
all were taken imm edlately.
A rich MORE Imperial has a narrow stripe of Mexi-
can blue and wide stripe OF white, with flowers in
jnrdinier. Grlsoe silk III little checks or in white
dots on a black ground, Is very desirable for ira
In pain light silks'one Of The color water do Isle
is new, and will be a favOrlte II is of delicate
such as olive green and olive-brown, have been re-
Vived Tor street dresses Black has been worn so
much IN cheap apacas that 1t became necessity,
the fashIon.mak say, to introduce dark
coors silk instead OF black and these were chosen.
The Gladiator cloth, and the Eugene in dark b ue,
green, and brown are also new styles Tor walking
suits.
For full dress .colored satins take the lead. The
cashmere whle SATIN is soft and beautiful, and IS
preferred ior bridal dresses in place OF white corded
silk.
MOURNING GOODS.
In mourning there is q new material called poplin
glenadine ItmaY be worn in full mourning instead
of bOmbaZne, and is more duraOe. 1t is two and
quarter yards wide, and trimmed with Grape makes
a handsome mourning shawl. But bombazine takes
the precedence tor the deepest mourning. The
gaze QTnpre is new in thin black goods Tor summer
wear, and there are the Henlliquo the Byzantine,
the Florentine, and the Hernani-quIte variety
from which to select,
GRENAD1NE.
G1enadine muslins, with black Ground, barred
in white stripes, forming large square, or
white ground barred with blacR, and variegated
flower IN each square, are new and pretty. beau
titul design, in the same material, Is OF a delicate
brown ground, with richly tinted flower, and q
small lrreguarly defined form, OF darker brown
than the ground, resembling shadow
GOATS HAIR CLOTH.
Fabrics of goats baf will considerably used for
spring and summer walking dresses. They are IN
stripes and checks, and are also plain. When with,
out any mixture of cotton they are durable, and
look well until they worn out The plain will
make good suits for ordinary wear but stripes ana
checks are not desirable except IN single garments
oRGANDIE MUsLINs.
Next TO grenadines the organdes are probably the
most admired of the goods Tor usual summer wear.
Last year the designs were grote7que and unattrac-
tive; but some the patterns quite pretty,
particularly those in var.egated ltowers ana deli.
catelY formed leaves. The robe patterns are very
handsome, and many selections have been made.
DRESS MODES.
Nearly all dresses OF thick fabric are now gored
or partially gOrCd. If the wearer does not wish 10
gore each breadth, there is easy method of fold
ing under part of the width. 1t introduced by
leading mOdiste, and is found to give a graceful
sweep TO the skirt
Thin dresses will not generally be gored. The
question whether they could be, which was for a
time perpleXng, Is solved. They are gored when
mounted on stiff lining, and are trimmed with putt:
trimmed with a fOunce box lated, or with head.
ing of some contrasting color, is very pretty. An
attractive style the gored skirt with few paits at
the back resembling somewhat style that was in
vogue among our grandmothers There are two
sashes with fringe OF the color OF the dress; the
heading, a contrasting COL or, depending from the
back at each side. Corresponding sashes, twelve
inches long, are attached 10 each seam, and fall
within a Iew inches Of the bottom.
A good way of making two silk dresses of different
colors, INTO one dress, is to gore one, and put a
skirt the upper edge being pointed scoloped, and
the sleeves and waist trimmed to match.
The newest pattern IN sleeves is the Empire,
which is the coat-sleeve with wide putting on the
top. While the coat-JleeVe is the prevailing style
there such variety of patterns that all tastes can
Points are not much worn. The waists are round
with or without a basque-hnish as it may suit the
fancy.
In Paris the looped-up dress is still worn on pro
menade, but for evening dresses, or on extraord
nary occasions, the skirt has train of nearly JwC
yards IN eng h. and sworn without the large hoops
Which are the most difficult to manage, these trains
or the immense hoops is serious question for the
ladies', suits are made with either round or shawl
SUITS ior little girls, comprising skirt and bas
q1lne, trimmed to match are fashionable. The
Knlckerbocker suit OF hight cashmere, with a sash
OF blue, is pIetty suit TOR boy OF five to seven
years of age.
Parasols are richer smaller, and more beautifully
decorated than ever. They are usually lined with
white, and have gilt ivory handles carved IL
singular devices. Some of black silk are embroi
dered with jet and gold; others with steel or crysta
beads, the edge beng finished with cord or marrow
brought out again, but IL has not yet round many
purchasers. Parasolets are also revived. The
are suited for carriage use Being small and turn
ing over at the top, they can be employed for fans
PaTasOls likewise made OF pongee These ar
larger and more durable than parasols OF oTdinar
silk and are appropriate Tor the seaside, or 10
country use
There is nothing new IN shawls except squar
ones OF silk and wool of so light a shade the1 can
worn all summer. There are among these garment
fine pssortments of the India or Gamers nail
French cashmere, the Alpine, etc. Shawls are moi
worn tins spring than formerly, possibly becaus
they are gracefully burnoused-arrangedt TO all IN
SPRING oLoAKs.
There have recently been one or two openings
Bhawls and another Will take place in the preseI
week The styles have never been more varied {
richer than now, ana each particular fancy may b
gratifed The only difficulty that can arse is prob
hlxTf haf M a o. hos haa I'M