Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1866-08-22
JOTrINGS OF TRAVEL,

JOTTINGS OF TRAVEL.
Seneca Lake-Aodel village Wine Cult1e-Yze
tleHs-Aao.ime Scsnsry-Giaats G0rgc-Rdia-
toD fe!ts-Aa9'iHg.
WATKINS, SCHUYLER Co, n. Y, Aug. S.
1e66.-Editor Star I'm my letter from RSlstoa
promised to give you some account of this
place, with its wonderful g,ens. lake fishing,
&c,
Leaving Ralston in the 9 q. m train, we
were rapidly whirled over a very mountainous
and wild country, fftv-four miles, arriving
in Elmira, N. Y, at II O clock.
As seen from the cars, the traveller can
form but a poor estimate of this place, but i
was informed that j: is one OF great beauty,
and OF much business importance. Crossing
the "Chemung River" al this point, the road
runs Immediately on the banks of the Chemung
Canal, the balance OF the distance to thls place,
twenty one miles. As we approach the town
OF Havana, which is the county seat, this canal
descends a distance of four miles down The
mountain side, by forty. two locks, affordiug a
water power unsurpassed, and which has
been the means OF erecting here some of the
largest Touring mills in the State. From FL
mira to this point we have come rapidly over
fearful chasms and bridges, at dizzy heights
ana over precipices, but now by heavily de-
scendlng graaes, we are in the Chemung VAL
rived in time for good dinner, at the "Jeffer-
son House, which approximates a good old
fashioned Virginia Hotel, where the solid COM
orally understood that the FIaid ones can be
obtaIned.
The town is situated in the valley at the
southern extremity or head of Seneca Lake.
and contains about 1000 inhabitants, and is
steadily Increasing; the streets are OF good
width, and are laid out at right angles, with
here and there public square that would be
priceless blessing TO some Of our older cities.
The streets are beautifully fringed with the
elm, maple, and walnut, and in several PAGES
some gigantic wainuts, OF original growth,
have been suffered to remain in the very center
OF the streets, and are Justly prized by the
people for their great age and beauty.
The style of building generally adopted is
that Of the modern cottage or villa, and there
homesteads have ever seen, almost creating
within you desire TO "possess other mems
goods"
The wine culture has, in the last three years,
become an important item of trade, and some
Of the very finest wines, nvalling the best CAL
ifornia brands, are produced, and at a much
less cost Luxurious and thrifty vineyards now
beautify the formerly barren sides OF the hills
and mountains around, and yield to the pcs.
SCISSOR better income, acre tor acre, than the
best wheat lands in the country, and vet it is
IN its infancy. Years to come will find the
banks of Seneca Lake the greatest wine. grow.
ing district in the country, if all that is claimed
for il be true.
But of the wonderful glens what shall say,
after exploring them IN all their length! feel
how utterly pOwerless / am 10 impress upon
the minds of your readers their sublime and
awful grandeur. Entering Glen No. 1 through
an immense amphitheater of rock, go feet high
by actual measurement, you ascend a series OF
rough stalrWays. or more properly speaking,
ladders, about 90 feet to the first ledge, which
is about 20 inches wide. As you tremblingly
grope your way you dare TO look up as You
enter the chasm; 200 feet OF solid rock towering
above you, its two sldes nearly kissing each
other at the top, meets your gaze, and you feel
@ tnat y9pn p are IN the Jaws Of some terrible mon.
ledge, which here abruptly terminates against
the face of the rocky hall, you gain confidence,
and cross boldly the yawning chasm on rude
Dridge, that seems II ke a mere reed. Once over,
our pathway leads up the crevices of the rocks
to narrow ledge 90 feet above, which we fol-
sow for so yards, until we are at the entrance
OF the "Gianrs Gorge" 1t is indeed fearfulIy
gigantic, and it requires a steady nerve and
clear head to pass successfully around
its fearful precipices, to look down
into Its dark depths, to contemplate its
Beetling Rocks, which seem to swing IN mid.
air over your heads. and listen to the awful
roar and thunders Of its cataract. The high
est point from the water below in this gorge,
and which you pass on ledge nine inches
wide, Is 100 feet, and above YOU the rock as
cends TO greater distan ce: here we again cross
the ehasm by a stairway IS feet high, and as
the width at this point is only ten feet you can
from some idea of its steepness When Won are
half way this staircase, to look down or up,
shakes the nerves and the hearts throbbings al
most cease with a feeling Of intense awe God
is manifest here and to the sceptic no greater
evidence of the Creators hands need be given,
and thus through distance Of two miles the
great architect has reared and builded these
wonders that amaze, while they delight. There
Is through the remaining four glens, which
are numbered from one to five as they ascend
the mountain, succession of awful preei-
pices, yawning chasms, beetling crags, foam
ing cascades and waterfalls, sylvan grottoes
and shady poolE some of the latter run in the
solid rock 40 Ind so feet deep. No. is consid-
cred the widest and most dangerous, and in
my fret attempt 10 pass through / utterly
failed, but IN the second, with the assistance
of guide, passed successfully to the end of
the 5th and last glen, fully repaid, by its mild
beauties, for all the risk. i have been under
Niagara, but 1t is tame as compared to the SUBJ
lime grandeur of the Giants Gorge.
On the return through the third glen, we
passed under the Rainbow Falls. These are
formed by the water falling in a narrow screen
like form, over ledge about forty feet above
you, and barely passing the narrow ledge
upon which You stand. sh uts you in between
below. Ere it is half way down il is lost i'm
spray: and rs the afternoon sun struggles
through the gorge. there spans the chasm n
small but lovely rainbow, perfect in form ana
colors. Descending rapidly to the upper end
of the first glen, we again ascend the side of
the gorge, by bridges and stairways, until we
reach the "Glen Mountain House." where,
after rest and refreshment, we ascend a few
feet more, and emerge on Cemetery Hill.
Here view meets the eye unsurpassed on
earth. To the north "Seneca Lake" like a
sheet OF glass, stretches away as far as the eve
can see, bCroered with farms and vineyards.
forest and field. palace and humble cot: and as
you gaze, the hills on either side seem in the
blue distance TO go down and kss the waters
and rejoice together. Beneath you. in a evil
derness of green" rests the town of Watkins
sweet in its repose, with ITS white spires
pointing TO hat land where the rest the world
refuses can be found. To the south we turn,
and along the valley the canal and iron rail
lay close together like two mighty serpcnts,
and are lost ten miles away in the hills Of
Havana, where the I" Peoples College" looms
up in the evening sun like some mighty for.
tress. The " Enchanting Hills" on either side
are clothed in thin verdure, and seem to look
down in smiling admiration ef the beauteous
scene.
Nature has here done a noble work for man.
Win Kindly soil and lovely landscape; with
the riches Of the forest. the lake. and the mine
all around him--what more could he desire
Seneca Lake. is the largest of this chain of
inland seas in Western New York, aud is
peculiar I'm some respects. For instance, its
waters never freeze, are never warm enough
for bathing. and when the south wind blows is
several degrees colder than when the wind is
from the north. Some portions of It's mysterious
waters are unfathomable, and no one who has
been drowned in it has ever risen to the
surface. 2 ie Ha1
There is excellent fishing here, and the
angler is literally rewarded for his patience
by lake trout, white fish, picksrel, sun fish,
and other varieties - f-HsA ~
In n -.