New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1866-09-18
4 TRIP TO COLORADO.
xu.-ADvESrUREs IN THE MIDDLE PARK.

but bali refreshed alter tpe haTdslps OF CROSSING 1no
pass Nevertheless we breakasted, saddled, packed,
und got under way with alacrity, encouraged by the
prospect Of a restorative bath at the Hot Springs
which said to heal all sorts Of ailments, BRING the
hair to bald heads aud put new blood into OLD VEINS
The trail bore away to the left OF Frazer RIVER over
gently unduatiug ground, still wooded; but the trees
were smaller the soil dry, and the increasing CLEANS
of sky through the Opmost boughs Indicated that we
were getting on Of the mountains. On the way we
found geranium-pink, veined with purple Deau-
tifu orchid almost identical with the cyclamen OF
Italy and Greece volets, rose-coored pogSnias with
a delicate peach-blossom odor, and huge beds of a
snow.wbite. golden hearted star.aOwer. The Occa.
sonal openings among the pines natural gardens,
which regretted to see trampled upon by the hoOlS
of our beasts.
After riding thus for half an hour there was an ex-
CamatiOn from the foremost of the party. Tho long,
long forest was at an end we found ourselves at the
head Of a superb meadow stretching westward Tor hYe
or six miles, bounded on the north, first by low gray
hills Of fantastic shape then by great green ascending
slopes of forest and above ALL Jagged ranges OF rock
aud snow On the south were low swells of pine aud
aspen, near at hand; twenty miles behind them de-
tached spurs of mountains, conspicuous among which
rose a lofty wedge-ke peak. Although on the Pacltc
slope of the Rocky Mountains, the dividing ndge or
watershed between the two oceans, embraced us ON
three sides. The main chain meandeTs through Col
Orado in curOusly tOrtuOus course. II comes down
the west side Of the North Park (Which is drained by
fha head waters of the North Platte); then turns d.
Tectlr eastward separating the North from the Middle
Park then southwark, bounding the Middle Park (the
waters Of which flow to the Colorado and the Cali
fornian Gulf on the cast; then due westward dlvid
ing the Middle from the South Park (Which collects
and mites the watersof the South Plates and finally,
after making abrupt curve around the head-WateIs
of the Arkansas, strikes southwark toward New
Mexico The Parks form a very remarkable feature
OF tie mountain region They resemble. on smaller
scale the lofty mountain. bounded table,lands of
cashmere and Thibet. They are still but lmpereety
explored and still more imperlectly represented on
the maps. have not been able to Ind any minute
description Of their scenery, soil and clmatGi hence
every step of the present journey has been iu oil H.
tereS In fact of the accounts oil travel among
the Rocky Mountains seem to me to present their
IHdiriauaiify as mountains very dlStncuy-to us
nriminate between what is original. and peculiar to
them and those general features which all mountain
regions possess in common. Each day, thus lar has
brought me its new surprises but shall content my
self at present. with giving the details OF the journey.
The change from the forest to this meadow was
that from confinement to liberty Our animals
seemed to feel it also, and trOtted forward brsky
Through the thick green grass. Near the head OF the
meadow we passed a large haystack and squaterS
shanty where the horses paSured IN the Pax are led
during the Winter. Only one man-JOnes, who dis
covered the new pasS-haS attempted to establish
rancho He has sowed 60 acres OF grain on the lower
part Of Grand River, but White informs me that the
attempt does not promise much The average level OF
although the extreme Of cold is not so great as in
Denver the Winter is so long, and the Skinner nights
so cool that it is doubtful whether grain Except
barley and oatS) can be raised.
MY lean mare evidently not adequate to the
task; so White, catching sight of herd OF horses
and mules, near the further end OF the meadow,
promised me an Indian pony in exchange, and rode
off in advance to drive in the herd. The animals,
like those we hadst taken from Empire, belong to
Charley Utter whom we had hoped to have as a CEN.
paniou for the onrney but he had joined the rush Of
eod-hunters for Bear River Ca hundred miles west OF
the Middle Park and had not yet returned. MT.
Beard also grOaned over his Mcclellan saddle, and
the gait of his mule We both, therefore, looked for
ward with some lmpatience to the MONDAY halt.
After crossing a number of swift, swollen streams
which came down from the left, We reached higher
and DRYER part Of the meadow, and the strong, juicy
grass gave place to sage-bush and hOweS-a plain OF
Glver-grav sprinked with myriad minute dots Of
color The Odor which filled the air was so exquisite
rs slightly TO intOxiCate the senses. For miles
peemed To be riding through Turkish bazaar, and IN
baling the mingled scent OF cloves Sandal-wood ana
altar Of roses My aches and cramps were torgotten
swan in an atmosphere OF balm, hai nafcOuzed
with the rich vOluDtuOus delight of breathing 1t.
White started up very large fox, which was Gun.
ming enough to keep out OF rne-ranSe, we sklrted
The wood on the left and LETT the meadow Tor low,
Ilrv plateau which was one mile-long bed o! blue
laykipurs and scarlet star-wOt. The grazing animals
had been added TO our cabaliadG and we sped merry
along the trail increasing the breadth and sweep OF
our panoramic landscapes, as we penetrated deeper
l;nto tbe hillv region. ! exchanged my mare for
tough little yellow Indian pony, bareiooted but nm-
le and intelligent: after inspecting Inc with his nose,
and apparently finding no objection, he established
confidential relations at once, and has served me,
thus far with answering fidelity
II was singular country through which we rode,
and regret that am not able to describe It's geology
cal character Hills wooded with aspen, and narrow,
grassy dells aternated with wide sweeps OF irregular
tabe.aud treeless and bare, except for growth OF
kage and larkspur The valleys OF the larger streams
which thread the Middle Park were shut out from
view but the distant cincture OF Alpine SUBMITS
met the eve, in every direction We rode ~ miles
two-tbirds of the distance to the Hot Sprngs-made
brief noOncamp beside brook, and then pushed Tor
ward again, toward lofty range OF hills which arose
before US.
Gradually, all the eastern portion Of the Park came
into view readily distinguished the Berthoud Pass,
rs well as that at the head OF Clear Creek and could
roughly measure by the eye both their elevation above
the Park and the character OF the approaches whlch
tbev offer for a railroad On this side OF the noun
tans there seems to be difficulty, except such as
might arise from heavy SHOWS during the Winter. To
the nortb-east M Byes pointed out the BOwlder
Pass which rises above the timber line, but Is almost
bare Of snow. 1t is practicable for wagons, but IS
very little travelled. An isolated chimney rock, two
or three hundred feet in hight, stands Ike beacon
on the very summit OF this pass.
can add to my own Mr.. Boards testimony as to
the originality of the Park scenery N an artistic point
of view The features are large and broad Win out
lines TO some extent fantastic yet not nharmomOus'
in color, gray predomnateS, but gray most rare ~
1andscape-slvery over the sage-plans greenish and
nearly along the slopes OF bunchgrasS ana occasion
ally running into red where the soil shows through
Che thin vegetation. In the grand vlews-hIty miles
in extent-irom tee ridge we were climbing, there
were positive tnts, but the most dchcae ana sur
prisng succession OF broad hat-tlns, TO which sun
shine and cloud-shadows lent the lovcliest effect.
The brush only can describe landscapes so new IN
character found myself thinking Of Central Asia