Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1866-10-25
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WINTER FASHIONS.
CIOnks, ;, Sla w is and Furs

iii bOTJS Ol TbulluCeTS VI, blOse HOUle alH-
mails, the horse and the dog, in medallions
and buttons, but now, as the cold weather
comes on, the dog star sets, and the bear is
to have his day ;'Ursa Major appears above
the horizon and gives. his name to the
shaggy sacks, which hereafter are to be
known as the polar bear, the grizzly, etc.
The AngOTa goat has also been robbed of
his thick, warm fleece to add to feminine
comfort and we have beside these the AS
trachan cloth and lamb skin, the camels'
hair, llama and Alpine cloaking. The polar
bear is of course white and thick, and
shaggy, and is suitable for the street when
comfort is most requisite, but it is too rough
In appearance for opera or evening wear
where full dress is required. Astrachan
cloth is an excellent imitation of the lamb
skin, so much used last winter for muffs
and yctOrines.J 1t has short, knobby tufts,
is of all quiet cOlOrs, and, it is said, will be
more used for ordinary wear than any 9TH
er material. The Alpine and camels' hair
are beautifully fine and soft. and make ele-
giant evening wrappings. There is u great
variety of color and design in these cloths.
Purewh is the original camels' hair and
llama, but there are now scarlet grounds
with long, white, silky fleece, or striped
in gilt and black, or blue and white; and
more beautiful still is the stella llama sill
yer and gilt stars on a white ground. These
cloths are very expensive, costing SIS and
$40 per yard, but they are wide, and for
tunately it does not take many yards to
make cloak. -."'i
For the present season cashmere sacks
| are in great requiSition. These are made
in all colors, but purple and black predom-
iUate. Purple is favorte color in all
kinds of material. Loose cashmere pale
tots are lined and wadded, and would be
inexpensive but for the elaborate trimmings
of jet that are lavished upon them.
Although rough cloths are most used,
many pattern cloaks are made of heavy
French beaver. Most of those imported
are of steel gray or purple. There can, OF
course, never be anything more elegant
than velvet, but this year there is n beau
tiful article of plush as fine and costly as
velvet, which many consider preferable.
The French cloaks, lately imported, are
exceedingly graceful, though there is but
little novelty or variety in shape. Wide,
flowing sleeves, cores set in at the side, aud
deep points at the back and side, constitute
the difference between the loose sacque Of
last season and of this. Circulars, in which
there can be nothing new, and jaunty,
tight-itting basques, with skirts deeply
pointed behind, rolling collars, coat sleeves
and pockets with large flaps, compete
in vain with the loose sacQue for suprem-
acy.
The gored sacque will, without doubt,
prevail, as it was exhibited at all the es-
adjustments at yesterdays opening, and
isnade up in all kinds of material. Ava
riety of names are given it, such as the
Metternich, the Empress-and one house,
thinking to make it the tlood-tide that
Shakspeare's adage ''leads on to fortune"
has enhanced its popularity by labelling it
the Ristori. Call it by what name they
may, it is the handsomest style yet brought
out, and is great improvement on the
loose paletots of last season. The joses
that are introduced at the side make the
garment slope away gracefully at the back,
and prevent it from hopping in. The open
pointed sleeve is objected to by some on
account of the exposure, but this is reme-
died by small cOat-sleeve being worn in
side the larger one, and on some Paris
cleaks there is sleeve which folds up on the
inside OF the arm, entirely protecting it,
while onthe outside the material is cut into
pointed fall that perfectly Stimulates the
regular oriental sleeve. The skirts ofthese
are not long, but are cut in variety of
shapes. Some are short at the back and
long on the side, while others are short and
square in front, and deeply pointed at the
back. Instead of scollops, there are sharp
vandykes and battlemented squares and
pointed saw teeth, by way of ornaments
Pendants of jets or bugle tasses droOp
from these points, and they are often fast
ened together, teeth meeting teeth, by jet
clasps. Belts are sometimes used, and
streamers depend from them instead of
from the collar Rosettes and bows are
ha anHc of fhaSa OF
Embroidery in silk, in chenille, and jet,
Is used in great tprofusion. Sometimes it is
almost impossible to say what is the origi-
nal material, as it lis so concealed by
needlework. The expense is of course
enormous, but the effect is very fine.
Galloon and narrow silk braid is also put
on in elaborate patterns. Lace is much
used on velvet, both IN barbs down the
seams and in wide flounces around the
skirt. Large medallion bnttons, cable
cords, and camels' hair fringe are the only
trimmings admissible on the shaggy ma
terials. Beaver cloth is sometimes border
ed with chinchilla and Astrachan, but more
usually a passementerie of silk and jet
adorns It.. No trimming can be more beau
tiful, and doubt ifany was ever so trouble
some. The beads fall off with the slight
est provocation, and the fringe tangles and
catches on every stray projection. 1t makes
garment heavy and cumbersome, and the
constant rafting and jingling that inevi-,
tably attends it is enough to craze q ner-
yous woman; however, it Is stylish and
pretty, and suppose it should be endured
without murmur. lmt hl1d .
Many elegant shawls were exhibited
Yesterday. One style, with long name
Which | have forgotten, was as thick as
velvet, but fell into soft andgraceful folds
like Caution Grape. This was massively
embroidered with jet, and had fringe a
halt ward in width. The Paisleys and
French cashmeres were particularly hand
some some of them had rich, warm GEN.
ters Of crimson and imazzarine blue, with
wide borders, while Others were worked up
ali over in a palmleaf pattern. Very ex-
pensive india shawls were shown, but do
not admire them: it may be convicting
myself of bad taste to say so, but i confess
have never been able to appreciate their
beauty as many do.
/ found a novelty in furs-not in the
stvle, for the small muffs and pointed col
lars of. last year are still wornT-but in the
fur itself. 1t is the silver mink-is of a
whitish. gray and glistens like the oxydized
silver so, much used for buttons. The AMI
NAL from whose fur 1t is made, is found on
Hudson Bay; but it is said to be OF an al
most extinct race, and is only foand,at rare
intervals. JJ.r- .c4a.E y. .Jn.s.Q,.,a -
liberals nothing new in the ftirs famil-
iarlv known. The Astrachan larhbsskinis is
extensively worn in place of regular fur,
and is great convenience toladies whose
purses will not permit a large expenditure
for handsome furs, and yet whose good
taste revolUs at wearing poor article, for
unfortunately nothing looks shabby SO soon