, 1866-02-25
a COLUMN FOR THE LADIES.
Fashion Intelligence and Gossip.
CttnolInss, CoraaGcs and ColEureA-A
Pnnic In the Hair Murket-Miscrsea
OF Nh Over EnterprlAinG French Deal
era NeSr style OF Robbery.

is worn much resembling the Greek folds
Of twenty years ago.
In the latest fashion reports from across til
winters we lind that for some time past blu
has decidedly been the iayotite color anon
young Indies who have ot1iclatcd as brides
maids. White muslin or white silk dresses IA
the case may have been), trimmed with blue
blue sashes round the waist, and blue flower
In the hair, had become sort of livery anon:
them. Blue appeared to be the color selected
as mntter of course. But the iavorite hue
at last losing It's place probably it has bee,
voted too common, Or possibly the winte
season has had something to do with Its be
ing cast aside; but, decidedly, It Is DOW giv
ipE place to tile warmer ind more glowing
shHdes Of scarlet and cerisc.
Dresses Of silk nre ornatnented with a bant
Of velvet of the same color, ,cut out ut the tor
Ike a battlemcnt instead Of in randykes oi
scollops, as formerly; silk cord follows tht
outline Of the velvet squares. Petticoats arr
made in tue same style, but Instead of the
velvet matching the pctticoats In color, d
contrast Is selected In preference. For exam.
pie, IN iron.gruy poplin will have grostui4
velvet trimmings; and violet cashmere pet.
ticoat black velvet band, cut1out ut the top
as battlement. stiT, substantial materials
are invariably selected for petticoats; such
are llnseys, poplins, reps, etc.
| There Is no alteration In the style Of dresses
for outdoor afternoon wear. The only novel.
ties ate in the trimmings, which consist Of
bands Of black cloth embroidered with silk
and jet beads, and these are arranged accord.
| tng to taste on dresses Of wooden materials,
trimmings IN small dimensions will be found
most suitable as well Is lutnble.
CR1NoL1Ng.
The form Of criuolines has altered within
the last few months; it Is now reckoned es.
scntjal to have two crinollnes, one for norn-
ing and the other for evening wear. The lat
! ter Is cut with train, 80 as to keep out the
lower part OF the dress. while the former IS
round.
The hooped pettlcoat Is now made very
small at the top, almost resting On the hips
If the wearer, aud falling straight In front, SO
as to do little more than keep the snpcrin-
posed draperlcs from actually touching the
knees, but forming train behind far more
extensive and comet:like than anything here
1 tof0re attempted In the wny OF .t'taIls." Tho
cage thus prepared and e1tendednow receives
q second ''tail," fastened on behind about q
foot from the bottom OF the skirt, and form-
Ing train that projects fully couple Of feet
beyond the furthcst extremity Of the cage It.
sell. This supplementary tail comes
z Huits s,,ra down VI TO to the ground, on which
ject Of this latest achievement Of petticoat en-
gineerirg Is to enable Its wearer to display
train" Of silk, satin, velvet or tulle Of from
three to iour feet. Above It Is worn u
iiounced skirt, 50 long as to stream out lit
oline-ladies Of particularly Unsuitable
vanity often wearing two, three aud tour Of
these upper skirts, each longer and fuller than
the one below it. Upon this ponderous frame
work Is displayed the skirt Of the dress, cut
rather short In front and at the sides, but
streaming ont behind like meteor. This
skirt Is eoEed from top to bottom, some Of the
breadths being sloped on both Sides, others
on one side only. It Is enormously full ut the
bottom, while diminished so much Mt the top
as to form but q few plaits. The front brendth
Is often made without any plnit, being sloped
so rs to lie hat across the body.
BoNSETs.
The Empire" Is the "rage" of the mo-
mcnt, and Just SERVES to hide the ears and tic
top, Of the head. Birds, flowers, chains,
buckles, cameo-buttons, and rows Of beads
arc the principal elements Of these pretty 1T
tie ornaments (moder1 bonnets are really
nothing else y, satin and beaver being the two
most fashionable materials. An attempt is
being made to eurtail still further the already
minute proportions OF ladies' headgear by
suppresstng that part Of the bonnet which
covers the ears Z; the bonnet then consisting
merely Of tiny crown, which lies uron the
top Of the ehignon (the inter now being worn
On level With the top, Of the head}, and OF
to coses few inches Of the upper part of the
head. This last absurd Invention Of Partisan
ecccntrfclty Is styled "the Pamela bonnet ~
but the honris of the bouleyarls not yet hay-
ing adopted 1t, lis success Is by no tneans
certain.
HEAD DRESSES
The hair is worn much higher ut the back
Of the bead. and covered with little
Empire and Of Louis XIV. These carls
nre not very costly: they arc sewea on
narrow bands of ribbon aud sold Mt 50
much per yard. For fifteen or twenty francs
one has enough to impart to the head the de-
sired resemblance to the fur OF Nawfound-
land DOG. Bands Of ribbon, or gold, are
often produce very pretty effect. The fash
lonablc wreaths for tho hair are now made
long enough to hang down behind and pass
round the neck under the chin, to the Other
side Of the head. Chains Of Jet are also
wound about the head and neck In similar
lent and unhecomfne, Is hardly likely to be-
come general. Masses Of false curls, fukc
braids, and ialse eAt3nons arc still worn.
The great novelty Is called the Pompclan
bandeAu. II Is composed with enc or two
rows OF gold beads, which are placed forward
on tue forehead, passed behind the ear, and
allowed to iall forward on the chest, forming
bandeauI are also made Of gold chains, of
email squares Of chased silver mud Of canoes.
All head dresses, even II they are made Of
flowers, are worn very forward on the head;
the only exception to this rule Is the Cleo
patra bead dress, which consists Of coronet
Of plaits placed one above the other. and the
smallest Of curls issuiDg from the plalts It Is
m almost universally becoming arrangement
Of the hair.
NlsADyESrURE OF A TOO EyTRRPR1s1SG
HA1R-pREssER.
4 Parisinn letter-writer says hair-drc<scrs
affirm that the present fashion Of loading the
head with false hair must, ere long, be brought
to m end BY the impossibility Of procuring
the necessary supplies of hair. Already the
difficulty Of obtaining hais has brought Ger
tain enterprisiug hair-hunters (as they are
technically termed) into trouble, is has been
shown By m Incident that occurred few days
ago on the Boulevard Montmartre, where
young girl was found By policeman, weep
ing SO bitterly as to excite the inquisitiEe Pity
ot that funct!onary. Questioned By the guar
DIM Of puhllc; order as 10 the cause Of her
orphan, that both her parents had ]
her in the utmost poverty. and
that having made the acquaintance Of GER
tain D. he had offered to place her with his
wife ns housemaid; that she had accepted
tAts VuEl, aAu Aau euAE Mitu y. ~ uAs Housc7
but had seen nothing Of his wife, who was, he
said, gone into the country for day or two;
that D., on pretext that she might be hungry,
had given her piece of bread and glass of !
wine, which latter had "got into her head in |
q very strange way, and had caused her to be-
cclne unconscious for an hour or Two; that,
On coming to herself, she found that her hair,
which was jet black and very luxuEiant, had |
been cut OF while she had been asleep; and |
That D., on finding her awake, had ordered |
her to 70 AWAY, telling her she had no business t
there, and had pushed her out INTO the street, |
telling her. in answer to her reproaches for |
the theft Of her hair, that she was drunken |
Jade. and that he did not know what she vas
talking about. The policeman, haring heard |
The girls story, which she confirmed BY taking |
or her cap and showing him that her hair was
mt off close to the roots, gave information to
lis chiefs Of the assault that D. had com (
nltted, and proceeded, with couple Of h1s |
brethren, to the house indicated by the rirl.
(hroug h their Investigations it was ascer-
mined that D., who is q hair-dresser, Is
Ilso dealer in hair, and that he has
'btoinea large quantities Of this article
y ftequentlng public balls, making &C.
luaintance with the women he meets there,
money, to induce them to sell him their locks,
the demand for hair increasing, and
he supply falling OF, this jealous caterer to
he folly Of the hour has adopted the violent
node Of proceeding which has brought him
nto uncomfortable contact with the arm Of !
be Inv. It seens that he hns Atterly been
n the habit Of prowling about the lowest
lnarters OF the capital, where be watches Tor
my girls whose appearance betokens poverty
md t1iendlessaess, and having inyeig1ed them !!