Cleveland daily leader. [volume] ([Cleveland, Ohio]) 1865-1873, 1866-04-21
A Pleasant Day and a BOaLRIde-
ScRnt q Furniture In the Berths-
misunderstanding MountatnS-
Mountain Scenery-VisiG to the
United tates Consul.

was itself again.
Soon after leaving the city we see the
habitetions of the small farmers-one
story houses, with tiled or matched roofs
surrounded by the patch of plantation and
corn, and generally with a few cocos
palms. Saw many plOughing with the
rude implement still in use in the country.
others riding along on horseback-all well
wrapped, for the morning was decidedly
chilly.
At Bstabano went on board the Ra-
pido-a nice boat, with state-rooms and 8
delightful cabin. There we're but few
passengers-even women, five young,
quite pretty and bright, one old and disa-
greeable, who smoked and spat constantly,
The habit of expectoration is by no means
confined to the men and, though spit
toons are almost as abundant as rocking
chairs, all seem to prefer the floor. They
spit at table, in church, even when on
their knees at prayer. 1 wonder it is toll
Grated, for dresses are worn enormously
long, and by the natives never lifted.
We sail across Broa Bay where we are
out of sight of land, except a low bank
Just above the horizon, till We reach Cape
Gorda; thence near the shore and among
the keys, countless islands-some very
small and scarcely raised above the water,
| others of considerable extent and covered
| with low bushes. The main lard has the
vegetation reaching to the water oeca-
s~ionally q belt of white sand is seen but nc
broad beaches.
The day proved very beautiful, cloud
less blue at the zenith, light feecy clouds
above the horizon, and among the keys the
shallow water like a bed of malachite,
The contrast Of color was lovely, pure
white, deep blue, and fresh, bright, living
green.
Our berths are without mattress or
blanket, and have only linen sheets and
cane bottoms. 1t seemed to me the lace
work must be transferred in visible lines
to my not too well sheathed bones. Cuban
beds surpass for hardness anything except
their pillows; in those they have reached
the perfection of the deinition-tough-
ness without elasticity.
From Cienfuegos to Trinidad is appar-
emily n continuous chain of mountains.
In looking at them it is easy to see why
the word "sierra" enters into the names
of Spanish mountains, for they are sharp
and regular as saw teeth. The ground be-
gins to rise near the water, and to the sum-
mits is covered with grass and shrubs.
After leaving the shelter of the islands,
found the Caribbean Sea somewhat rough,
but not enough so to produce sea sickness.
A long, low point stretches in front of
Trinidad, around which we pass quite to
the east of tina city, and sail back through
the shoal harbor to Casilda, the port, from
whence there is a railroad to the town,
three miles distant.
Trinidad is a rather dilapidated oldtown
Of about $4,000 people. Its streets are
narrow, crooked, paved with small stones,
and many of them have no sidewalks.
Went into the old church whose vesper
bells were ringing, found, as usual, the
worshippers women and mostly black.
March 2d.-Had ordered a volante at
five, but nothing in this country ever
came when ordered. Waited till six, then
started on foot for the top of Lookout
Mountain. Had rather q hard climb but
were compensation on the road by new
flowers, among them the Passion flower,
and at the Vigia by the beautiful view of
harbor, town and sea. To the right of us
were the Guamahaye mountains, rising
on wave and shooting up in sharp
peaks-one among them, Elpico de Po-
~tresillo, 1900 feet high, the second in
height on the island. To the left the long
range of Santo Espiritu, less picturesque
because more regular in outline, clothed
except, except the rain-washed spots, with
verdure and with here and there a crop
ping out of chalky rock.
After a rest at the Vigia, assembled to
the top Of the mountain, fifteen hundred
feet above the sea, whence we look down
into the valley of Trinidad, one of the
loveliest 1 sver beheld. Completely en-
closed by mountains with little streams
flowing through it, with long avenues and
scattered elumps Of the royal palm, pic
turesque Quintss with white walls and col
umned piazzas and broad fields of sugar
cane, it makes one of those pictures nc
pen can describe, to which no pencil can
do justice. Many valleys in my own
land surpass it in grandeur and sublim-
ity, few are its peers in beauty.
The Alcalde, to whom we were COM
mended, did the honors of the city. He
is Havanese by birth, but q Spaniard by
education and association, is young, has
brown hair and eyes, a brow fair as a
Saxon's, and is a most elegant and cult
waited man. Through his kindness a
visit to one of the sugar estates of the
valley was arranged. We rode (since no
one drOve), in style, having a v~olante
with three horses, n In b ethills, one for
the postillion and 8 third that seemed su-
p~erluous but was expected to do his hare
of the work, directed by the voice and
hand of the postillion. Fifteen Spanish
up and down hill, overshadowed by
the sea of mountains whose waves had
been caught and fixed as they were comb
ing over, under the palms and past the
fields of waving ane with the tall pan
icles of blossoms streaming out like ban
ners, brought US to well-named Buena
Vista. The house stands on a conical hill
which commands a view of the valley in
avery direction, has an e. of palms
rom the porter's lodge to the top of the
nil and one Of rose apples and lines from
he house TO the mill. Around the house
ire tall graceful trees with foliage like the
At Manoca Iznasa, an estate farther up
he valley, is a tower that a former pro-
built intending to have q view of
he sea. 1t stands, like that on Shinars
,lain, a monument of the folly of its
who thought to overtop Natures
ookout, but is q pretty object in the land
cape.
The Spanish mayoral and the Scotch
superintendent went through the mill with
Is and showed US the various processes of
ugar making, which differ very little
rom those at La Amistad, except there is
more manual labor and the sugar is pack
d in hogsheads, direct from the cooling
,ans, The refuse Of the boilers goes into
ne manufacture Of aquardiente Of which
hey make two qualities, the strong for eI-
,ortation, the weaker for home eGcs1E4
ion. Il