The daily clarion., 1866-01-27

From the Paris Correspondence ofthe Chicago Times
The shop widows have never before been
surnassed in the variety and brllllancy OF
their showing The one which draws the
greatest crowd at this time IS that OF Le-
Tandar, the confectiOner III the Rue de la
Paix, whose doll, worth $4,000, made every
one stare last season Then there was but
C,na AZ r.rezsnt there are two of these won
9e-fulIy gotten-up figures. They are above
three feet in height, One IS dressed as IN
tbe days OF the first empire, dated loOoi the
other. lctj6 is In the most gorgeous OF the
costumes Of the present period, ana the com
parison is decidedly unfavorable TO the
latter The lady of the empire has no hoopS'
not even fold at the waist; a sort OF apron
ofyvhi+e satin. embroidered with silver wheat
aheavea a train of crimson velvet similarly
emhroidered the waist under the arms, al
most no sleeves, with long kid gloves con-
fued above tho elbow by gold bracelet
with cameo fastenings; standing run OF
silver lace half concealed, half disclosed the
alabaster bust. A crimson velvet, that
covers the hair, except few curls, which
fall over the forehead 1t has a gold band
and tuft of white plumes on the tront. A
necklace of canoes, united by CHAINS 10
match the armlets, is the only other orna-
ment With the exception OF the too short
waist the effect is admirable, and any lady
who fancieS the style, may safely adopt III,
for il will be gradually worn here, without
the shadow of a doubt Already in the glove
shops the long gloves, to cover the elbows,
are being exhibited, tickcted "to be worn
with the toilette empire.
1866" has on a heavy silk over an nm
nense crinoIine. with train, the width
and length of which enable the artists OF
the toilette 1--WE call them simply dress
makers. but we do not do them justice by
the appeIlation) to display their resources
The designs on the silk are cuplds, eXquls,
itely painted and surrounded by blue and
white clouds. In festoons around them are
garlands of roses. This may be called one
section of the dress The lower part Is OF
a rich emerald green velvet, upon which a
diamond-shaped network of gold is fastened
each diamond being attached with Il button
The corSage is of green velvet, similarly
decorated a shawl of black tulle, with golt
spangles and a border of gold thread, fall
from the shoulders, and diminntive greer
velvet bonnet makes frame to the face. Z
profusion ofgolden auburn hair-the fash
ionable tint-is frizzcd and curled i'll front
and an immense bunch of curls falls at tn
back.
Notwithstanding the vanity which | re
port in this dress, it is quite true that "lS6o
is not caricature. The piling on OF orna
ments which we supposed had reached 1t
acme last wear, still continues. 1t seems no7
to have surpassed all bounds and there mus
be a reaction. Simplicity will hardly b
attained all of a sudden; but there will /
an effort made in that direction. 1t Is sal
that the empress has been trying, for til
past year, to turn the public into this chal
mel, but has not been successful, for the ver
reason that it was her majesty who gave I'll
law in extravaganza in dress, and finds thu
her example is now set down to afectatlo
or to pohcy,---in other words, that she WI
a sincere devotee to dress, and is not a 81
cere mover in reform.