The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-08-02


in skirts, Bonnots, trimmings, Robes.
and PeILtCUaLs - New Patterns ana
sIS I's of Dress Goods, Etc.
The latest fashion intelligence from abroad
informs us that snort skirts are coming into
tashlOn-nOt merely loOped up skirts, but actual
short skirts. Long aud eagerly have we
clamorCd for this change, and now that there Is
prospect OF Its really taking place. we can
hardly say that we hail 1T with pleasure For dc.
spite all that may be urged against the wearng of
long skirts IN the street, the TACT OF their being
the most graceful and elegant tor the drawing
room is beyond question. But, no doubt, for
INDOOR wear long skirts always will be worn.
just at present there are three iavorJe colors in
dress silks and these are pale blue, mauve, and
light green. Silks OF these colors are generally
heavily embf Odered with white, or with different
shades OF the same color as the dress; and the
effect Is rich almost beyond comparison.
The embroidery describes sCOllops; the bot
tom OF the skirt, whlcn Stimulates the petucoat
is entirely covered with either stars, bees
Crescent5 or dots OF white silk. and the edge
of the skirt is worked in imitation of gulpure
insertion. The embroidery then ascends the
skirt a tune, and at each side Of the front
breadth there is sash end embroidered and
then frnged with white beads. The bodices OF
these dresses are embroidered en- plastron; the
sleeves are very long and very narrow, and are
work ed en- revers. This rich white embroidery
produces the most original effect on olack silk
dresses. The same scollop.ng design produced
in black, on gros grains of a dark shade, is
likewise seen, but is not 80 elegant or dressy
looking on the white silk embroidery or the
lighter silks.
Such robes are, of course, intended for very
dressy occasions; ana therefore the skirts are
made unusually long and full, as nothing has
worse effect than what dressmakers Term
'mcan scrimp skirt" Abroad the fashion of
tying skirts at the back with sashes Is obtain
ing ground, and as the custom increases it will
no doubt, be taken into favorable consideration
by our own modistes. The sash ends are no
longer plain, but are heavily embroidered with
silk or small beads, or trimmed with cherry or
guipure silk. new article called Egyptian
cloth is just coming into vogue. 1t Is manu-.
tactured principally of silk, and is much
admired. The following describes a very ele-
CANT toilet of this new material, made of white
Egyptian clio h:-The petticoat was trimmed
with three rouleaux OF violet silk, with small
quilting below TO match; the skirt was plain,
and was tied at the back, the two ends OF the
sash beng frlnged with violet silk; the small
square paletot was trimmed with rouleauX TO
match those on the petticoat and 1t had
violet feather fringe all round It. This Egyp-
tan cloth Is muCn used for easide dresses,
where the entire toilet matches - peticoat,
paletot, and dress being cut itrOm the same
piece. The buttons on the paletot are either
silver or mothero!-pearl, quite plain, without
either hole or ornament IN the centre.
Every excess OF extravaganza appears to be
INDUCED in this season. This time last summer
it was thought somewhat eXtravagant when
petticoats OF heavily trimmed white alpaca
, lustre became so much the rage; but that was
child's play in comparison with the tull-blown
extravaganza of the present time. For now
II nothing less than pettcoats made of white grOS
II de Naples will suit the fastidrous tastes of
Il fashionable bellies. These superb skirts are
\ ornamented with band of Oriental embroidery
worked in silk OF divers hues. This embroidery
reproduces palms, such as we see on Indian
shawls. These white silk pettlcoats. with bands
OF Oriental embroliery, are often made for a
special toilette, but they can be worn under any
dress, provided 1T be composed of rich or elegant
materials. The Empress of the French and the
Princess Metternich were the first to wear these
petticoats under dresses embroidered in the same
style.
The effect is superb, as may easily be under
stood from the following description:-A skirt
OF Mexican blue gros de Naples testooned all
all round by means OF long straps, which COM
menCe at the waist, and were covered with
Oriental embroidery, in which red and yellow
predomlnated; small casaque of the new
form, without any basque in front, but opening
over white embroidered gros grain waistcoat,
with 3 sort of Montespan basque at the back
which basque was formed with two wide Hat
plaits. The basque was rounded at the sides,
and was covered with embroidery, as were also
the bodice and the sleeves.
White silk petticoats are also embroidered
with black purse silk, and are trimmed with
black chenille fringe. As plain white silk petit
coats have been very general since the COM
mencement of the season, many ladies who are
economically inclined are now treshenng them
up by the addition of either black chenille
fringe or colored chenille tipped with crystal
drops. These pettlcoats are not always very
costly, fer they can be made OF slips which have
been used under ball dresses; the train (indis-
and the upper part remains usually very fresh.
The latest news of bonnets is that square fronts
have been worn; whether they will become
general remains to be seen The new stVle Is
called the ''Neapolitan," They are considered
4 to be more becoming than the shape known as
"Lamballe," and although they are not in reality
bonnets, any more than others or the charming
and diminutive head-dresses which are now
classed under that head, they do duty for them
very well. AT a recent celebrated marriage the
bride herself wore a bonnet of this description
it was made of white tulle, and was entirely
covered with small white harebells, with very
long crystal pistils. The front was bordered with
one row of old English point lace, headed with
a narrow crystal fringe; inside there was a ban
deau OF white harebells, with the long crysta
pistils which fell on the brides beautiful blacl
hair. The strings were of narrow white ribbon
edged with white lace, and we're tied under the
n Chignon.
The brides toilette consisted of a pearl grey
gros grain dress, so pale that it was almost white
The skirt was cut with an immensely long train
q and was trimmed round the edge with a white
silk ruche, headed with magnificent flounce o
old point lace sewn on plain, with another sill
ruche at the top OF it. This trimming was car
ried up the front breadth of the skirt. Tn
bodice was plain and had a peplum borderet
with white silk ruche and edged with old poin
lace, likewise sewn on without fulness. Abov
the bodice there was a MaIie-ADtoinette mantle
made entirely of point lace, and fastened on tn
= chest with diamond brooch.
Summer dresses, made low in the bodice, ar
frequently ornamented with laces or brettelle
of lace, which have always good effect, eXceI
on very stout figures. White continues to
the iaVorite morning and evening color, and n
doubt it will still hold sway during the remain
4 q Nln Nhne