The Bolivar bulletin. [volume] (Bolivar, Hardeman County, Tenn.) 1865-1888, 1866-07-14
What Should and What Should Not
be Worn.
PROM tine TABLETS OF A rAEIsrAs LADY or soo1rrr.

E0OItcS-l LIMOS ana 1HGhQLF dresses, ana
Hoe they Should be Trimmed-Suits-
honsiHg Dresses, ETC.
There are various ways of being we'll
dressed, and every lady, whatever her means
may be, aspires to look elegant, and If she
has good taste, however limited her income,
she may nevertheless be dressed both grace
fully and with effect We shall give our
readers to-day some good advice, which viii
help them, we trust, in the choice Of their
toilets A lady should always choose the
newest shape, the last thing in material, and
the garment seen for the first time Novelty
costs money it is true but this difficulty may
be overcome by adopting a garment which
becomes more the fashion the longer 1t is
worn Those ladies who last year, when
points were the fashion, had their dresses
made with them and halftight sleeves, have
ut present bodies which it is impossible to
wear whilst those who adopted In all its first
freshness the coat with tight sleeves are ar
rayed IN the mode. All novelties do not be-
come general but the delicate intuition with
which a woman is gifted should tell her what
to adopt and what to reject
Those who take the lead in all matters of
fashion, and aim at being considered oracles
in all that concerns elegance and STYLE wear
the smallest possible bonnets-iust a mere
bouillOn Of tulle across thee head, with wreaths
and chains Of flowers to complete the Golf
step, but still wish to pay homage to the tickle
goddess wear the rounded shape, which is
really bat a modification of the Empire bon
net, or the Eanchon, somewhat smaller than
it was last year Others who do not change
their head-gear every month, and who like
to have some covering upon their heads when
they walk abroad, keep to the Empire bon
net, only just little more rounded off at
the sides than last season. A III the various
shapes Of which we have spoken are now
seen IN all kinds Of fancy straw and fancy
crinoline, the latter Of all colOrs, pink, blue,
mauve, and maize color being the favorite
tints. 1t is IN good taste to wear ribbons Of
the same color and white flowers upon
cOlored crinoline bonnet a small quantity
Of black lace also looks we'll in he trimming.
What have Just said about the differ
ent shapes worn in bonnets just now might
also apply to dresses The length Of the
train appears to be the criterion of elegance.
Ladies Of fashion wear it full one yard trail
ing on the ground and those whose tastes
arc simpler wear it as many inches shorter
as they think proper There are two ways
Of cutting gored skirt The first is to leave
the front and back widths uncut, and to slant
off the side ones only; the back is then
plated. The second is to place two gored
widths at the back, so as to have a seam IN
the middle which forms pigeon s-tail-shaped
train at the back, and requires much less
material. In this case an uncut width Is
placed on either side, the others as usual
We prefer the first method, which makes a
more ample and graceful train. The usual
width Of a dress is now about two yards at
the top, six yards at the bottom, no plaits at
all in front, double plaits at the back, and
sometimes at the sides
The new materials for the summer are
mostly striped A new kind of mohair is
called Sultana these are some of the pretti-
est patterns: A white ground, with stripes
formed Of from fifteen to twenty black, YiO-
let, blue, or green lines; colored stripes about
half an inch wide, bordered on either side
with a line Of bright maize color upon gray
ground; the stripe may be blue, violet, etc.
The new limos dresses have also colored
stripes upon o speckled gray-and-white
ground.
There are clearer fabrics for the summer.
a new sort of barege, called Byzantine, in
all shades Of color; another the texture Of
which appears to be plated; the canvas gren-
adine, which is pretty in black, trimmed with
a border worked in black or white beads
upon the skirt, bodice, and sleeves Black
gimp studded with small chalk beads Is also
very fashionable for trimming not only black
but colored dresses.
Entirely white limos and mohair viii be
much worn by young ladies, both married
and unmarried, this summer; the white dress
and casaque viii be trimmed with colored
silk rouleuX or gimp cord, ribbons covered
with white Cluny guipure, or strips of violet
blue, green or pink silk, piped round and
placed in various ways upon the skirt and
casaque, with silk buttons to match A pretty
way of trimming q gauze or barege dress is
this Place a narrow plated fiOunce, more
than two inches wide, about ten inches from
the bottom, then let it come down gradually
on either side, and then round the lower
edge at the back; it will thus simulate tunic
The founce may be edged at the top with
gimp rouleaux, beads, ribbon, or lace. But
this only looks well in very clear materials
firmer tissues, such as limos, mohair, etc
should be trimmedsOnly with fiat ornaments
such as strips Of silk, ribbon, gimp, fancy
braids, and so on A very deep Grecian
pattern formed of strips Of silk looks vel
round the bottom of dress. For instance
a dress of pearl-gray mQhair was trimmed
with deep Grecian pattern, composed of q
strip of blue silk, edged on either side with
very small white pearl beads. Another, o.
white and black limos was ornamented with
pattern in the same style, but Of violet in
stead of blue silk, with small black instead
of white beads. A casaque of the same ma
terial was trimmed round with smaller pat
tern to correspond.
The most elegant style Of toilet is, the dress
casaque, and under-skirt of the same mate
rial The skirt of the dress is Topped up in
front, on either side, with rosettes or gimp
ornaments; the long train at the back is then
thrown over one arm, out walking. This viii
probably become a general fashion, no porte
iupe being now sufficient to keep up the
length of skirt eiiectually The short tight
fitting over garment makes it very easy thu,
to take up the skirt, asld it is notungraceful
Crinolines are now reduced to being goreC
petticoats with two or three circles Of stee
round the bottom, and even these are dis
pensed with altogether, two or three starchel
white petticoats replacing the crinoline. The
new fashion suits most figures; it is espe
cialiv becoming to those who are not very
tall, and rather inclining to en,bonpoint Al
for tall slight figures, they always look we'll
the only question for them is to put on
sufficient quantity Of under-petticoats
White morning dresses are now taking tn,
.,In-nn &c thn nlnlcrrt Nvintnr cnshrern rnhe