The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-05-16
THE WORLD OF FASHION
Paris Modes for May-New Modes
for Dress, 3 on cts, Etc.
FiIligree Trimmings, Etc.
From lie EoLLet for Mau.


Each spring the Partisan arlstocracy Introduce
some fashion which resel we'd TOR themselves alone
That for the present season one tor WhIcn every
woman of taste has innate tendeDcy it Is the pre
ference gwen n white either for nome or bali dress
1he great care and numberless expenses connected
with such toilette make 1t a luxury for the rich
only when adopted tor home or morning dress; at
the same time II IS generally proof of elegance and
good taste. These morning dresses are no longer
called pelgnoirs, although they tune neglige
Ihat winch constitutes their recherche elegance is
their apparent simplicity. No pArvenue would be
satisfied with simple white dress trimmed only with
ruche OF the same, or narrow tucks on the skirt
She might have a splendid pei gnolr emOroldered In
gold ana elaborately trimmed; but dress so simple
would not be her taste. One must have 1t from the
cradle, II can never be merely learned .
These white dresses, which will be so fashionable
are composed OF long SKIRT OF percaie and short
casaque OF the same; the casaque not fitting, but
showing the figure. Some are trimmed win the
narrow ruche Already spoken of, forming a small
grecque, and fastened on with coored cotton,
Others have an Inseruon, with a guipure at eaen
edge; and again. others are made IN large scallops,
Trimmed either with fancy braid, all white, or
white and coored. Ghe taste for white is not new;
II has always been adopted by the grand monde
We might, in proof this go back to- the time OF the
Romans, when the dress Of white wool was that of
the patrcan ady. Another marked preference in
the same circle is that for white and black white
and lilac, or grey and white
These form the walking dresses of those who wear
white at home Indeed, now that the dress aud
jacket must match, one has not much chOlce of
color, as anything very striking bright is by no
means suitable for such a style of toilette We still
lind striped OF plain materials more generally IN
favor than any Others, they are so decidedly the
most suitable tor sklrs on the bias. Indeed stripes
cut thus produce pretty effect forming into points
where they join Many dresses are made quite PLAIN.
When trimming is used band otlahetas on the bias
are frequently employed ClunY gnpure also, and
small round motherotpearl buttons very tasnIon.
able especially on tho "Prncesse' make of dress,
which wlll, without doubt, predommate through
the summer.
AS the warmer weather approaches it appears that
the caaque, fomed simply by basques fastened to
q waist band, viii be adopted 1t Is more convenient
Tor the present make of dress than the former
OF having no body to the dress under the out-of-
doors jacket who was so frequently the resource
of ladies' when the heat too great to admit OF the
double vestment or course these basques must be
well cut, and fitted TO the waist in such a manner
that they do not appear separate Tne first dress in
our list this month IS one OF this description.
A robe, "Pnncesse" make, OF wide STRIPES of grey
and white. A WIDE black guipure put as reVers
round the bottom OF the SKIRT and sleeves The long
basque, fixed under band of Rupure, IS also
trimmed round, and the trimming is rounded and
carried up the sides which are opened up and also
up the fronts.
skirt, iestooned and edged with black velvet; the
upper SKIRT dTaped at every seam with punches OF
black veveJ ribbon. Smell paletot OF the same with
reVers in front, and pockets all trimmed with VeVet
OF diEbTent widths forming festoOns. Jet buttons.
A dless of dark drab tOu ard, with shaded green
spots At the bottom of the under skirt plating of
green t0ffetas, headed with three bias pieces The
upper skirt dTaped IN TOUR places under wide ends OF
green tahtas iasf ned With moher-of- oear buttons
Tight casaque with plpnRs up every seam, and ends
OF nbbon At the shoulders and the middle collar at
the back.
very elegant robe "Prncesse," OF white toulard,
dotte1 over with blue or PINK flowers, nmmed all
mp tht sklt with rows of cuny guipure over coored
ribbon put on in brandebOurgs or horizontally, and
grRduRed In the length OfIthe pieces. The casaque
initiated with a band and ornaments OF gUipure,
forming testoons, Small pockets OF gaipure and
A darkdrab foulard with narrow black stripe,
or rather merely thread, of "Prlnces'e" form,
trimmed ulon every seam with very thick piping
OF back tahtas, similar piping round the bottom,
and row IY large black tafretas buttons up the
front, Basqus fastened to the band simply piped
round to matcl the dress.
robe OF fouard of a golden brown color, with
large black spot This is also Of "Princesse' make,
and up each seap is placed RuipuTe insertion.
Tight oasaque OF he same, uimmed round with q