New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1866-08-03
PAPER COLLARS AND CUFFS.


UNDER WHICH THE PAPER PASsEs-How THE
PAPER IL DRIED-THE CUTrGNG-MAcHISE-THE
ArPAeEyr STITCHING PROcEss-Irs FINAL COM
PLPTOS.
The use of paper collars and cuffs has become ve'y
general among gentlemen and ladies' also beginning to use
them 20 great extent In hot weather such have at
present whom the frame perspres most freely and
when ordinary collar dops and wthers into the consist
ency Of wet napkin towel it be good thug TO know
hsf with very little trouble may always sppear with
good neat and clean collar comfortable and making
decent appearance with cool LOOK even in this torrd
weather Notwithstanding the thousands OF both who
wear paper collars there probably bat lew individuals
who not directly Interested in the trade have any idea Of
TIE manner in which they made and OF the immense
quantity used.
Paper collars by negro minssres and the
which any record By the venera
be Daddy Of the fathers Of minstresy who
gave up the ghost only a very few years since.
Some enterprsng Yankee seeing them in some public erhi
billions the idea OF introducing them into private
life and usual bis eutorprisng procvites succeeded In
upon Improvement has been made in collars
each Improvement patent has been obtained These
patents however with two exceptions are OF no &C
count flr that Daddy Rice and other mnstre
who 25 and 30 years ago had patent for them
and thu, any liberty to wear make buy. sell or
improve upon the collars has introduced The patent is
dodge fiction OF trade and ia only introduced to
entering the like business Many Of these
sham patents have been innged but yet action
has been taken law prevent such inngements How
ever the collar which introduced slip OF muslin in its
strucon notable exception 10 this rule and is clearly and
explicitly protected by these letters patent
The various processes under which the paper passes and
those which undergoe before finally turned out
perfect collar exceedingly interesting The paper used
expressly manufactured for purposes for the best collars
the Ture linen stock Is used and varies IN weight
pounds to the according to the quality OF
the collar desired 10 be produced.
Tie first process which the paper designed for collar
making is subjected thar Of stang The paper spread out
upon the table aud thick coat sizing spread evenly over
surface by young women who uses Inc brush for that
purpose Sizing glutinous substance made OF French
chalk glue gum. and white When an unusually fine
gloss desired be produced little arsenic is added to the
sizing little TO be quite uninJurious and the manuac
ture OF what known Precipitation proof collars sou-
ton OF India rubber is introduced
After being properly Sized the sheets are hung up 10 dry
previous being sent to the enclosing nachine This
machine simply three heavy iron rollers revolving upon each
other great speed and producing great amount Of re
ton The and largest roller covered with thick
smooth soft pad made Of cotton Through this great machine
the sized sheets passed. aud they out in hgb glazed
shining condition rapidly the revolutions made BY these
friction rollers and great the friction produced that they
become heated to degree which erbds the laying Of
hands. The sheets ready for the cutting machine
sharp cutting knife Of the exact shape and size Of the col
lar pattern inserted in the machine and ten dozen
sheets Of the prepared paper fed beneath IT, The knife de-
scends with great force cutting through paper and bring
ing out many perfectly cut collars there are sheets OF
paper The machine used for cutting all sizes OF oo'
lara and also cuffs but for pattern knife must
be specially made The collars In the rough They
have ceased be simply sheets Of paper and Few more
touches will fit them for use.
Tho stitching process that OF giving the collar an apps
around the edges For this
pose an ebosser used This tool is made the exact shape
and size Of the collar which stamps dots along the edges OF
the collar rendering good imitation OF stitching work This
is placed In light upright machine. which rise, and falls
very rapidly girl by and every time the TOOL 10 raised
aha aims nan collar under and It rises she with draws IT,
nicely stitched and another In the factory visited
there were 20 OF machines all 10 simultaneous operation
and each tended by interesting little woman To thus feed
,bronoh the machine TO- 900 collars per diem 10 considered
fair days work for operator The collar passes the
buttonhopg process Three upright little shafts contain
each little knife made the Sse of tine buttonhoe the saafs
helm no adjusted hole in the middle Of the collar
and one at end These rapidly and down. girl
feeding collars through at the Of LOCO an hour
From this machine. the collar the folder Thism sh
another machine which rapidly the gil car feed H.
SEXES the collar and by Of sekkne' operation folds
over at the proper place gentlemen are Wons 20
have their collars turned down." their crays sun
another girl feeds through another little machine WnereA
slight little roller presses lightly exactly upon the fold press
inc IL down smoothly and evenly In this machine hite
bras, itself between the folds OF the coAI SO
that II shall DO pressed down too tightly ous have space
eoob 10 admit the oavat between the folds without WrnE
Hrg. This machine lends its aid to the eonple''oa
Of t,e collar. and passes it to n long table where
,,in mora GIRL. sort over tho many thousands thai
tstn,saa them. csssBs svT @s spoiled 9ps'' so'