New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1866-06-19
NEW YORK DAILY TRIBUNE TUESDAY, JUNE ~, 1866.

owav. deiebtfl I'D and Young Of both sexes flock to
gethe 20 ion in the gathering Ihere Is no lear OF lh
or Of intense heat and there Is scarcely breeze enough 10
stir the broad leaves Of the vne which nov begin To- put
their coat be changed soon for one III which
the pink and crimson viii predoHnae Nimbie myers
are seen everywhere clipping the npe hunches ana throw
Ing them into clustering heaps. The ring OF merry laugh
ter heard oil parts Of the vineyard The luscious
loads heapd into baskets and boxes, are taken IN wagons
! to the wlnc-pTcss.
Now commences in sober earnest the real business Of
maknstho wine, and this also oons Is Of ilc simplest
contryances The fruit thoroughly ripe none other
should be used, is first subjected TO the operation Of
MASKING" This Is done by one or two hands tho tcc
used for this purpose IN SonOma, as IN most oil
the countries ~ Eurepe, sometimes IN wooden tub or
barrel with q Ong-hauded ssmper but most usually with
two parallel rollers, between which the "berues' are
crushed In such wav as not break the seeds or kernels
Some persons strip the "berres7 from the combs or
stems before mashng," because they say the fqnHfq ex
tracicd nom the stems mparts harsh taste to- the vine
But Others prefer crushing the grapes on the stems ana
these claim tia, the taHnip acts as preseYaFe o. ile
wine an rather improves than mi urcs its flavor NhL
the difference Of opinion this point they ali agree
that the pressing should be commenced rs soon as pos
sibe after the press of MASKING is For nothing IN
urcs the juice much exposeto the atmosphere There
Is great variety Of wne-prcsses III use one OF the
simplest and probably good any, is nothing more
les than reproduction OF the ancient f0cR9r en-
ployed By The Romans for the purpose IL consists
Of upright box framework, in which the grapes are
pressed by means Of long arm or lever WIN STONES or
other weights fastened TO the handle As soon as tue
juice, mnt it is called comes from the press, ~ IS
collected in large vats Orcasks 10 undergo crinenaOn
which akos place usually within about - hours aierwad
This sight to the stranger for the fret time Is an interest
ing lie the agitated and sieaminG mass whng
around with much violence and 1t reminds him OF moth
inc much the boiling and bubbling of the witches
cadron in Macbeth But let him not approach too near
or stand too long OF these scehing vats For
out of II escapes ID great quantities the deadly crnolc
acid, which, disengaged from the heated mud, takes It's
flight in clouds Of vapor. The most careful wnemakers
guard AGAINST evil effects from this cause by keeping
the iermcnng vessels covered and allowing the gas toSe
conducted through tubes or pipes into basins OF water
This 30 ohvatcs the evil tendencies Of contact with the
furrQ ia
from which if too much exposed, II mbibcs the most
huriiu properties.
II generates spirits OF wine or alcohol Is ended, me
vino placed in the cellar IN pipes which are kept iull
aud tightly bunged, SO as TO exclude tie Atmosphere
Some allow IL 10 remain in these, on the lees until he
second, Spring fermentation sets IN, while other, draw
il OF twice before this period But whatever ther
practice in this particular they all adhere IN theory AZ
least e. the habit of observing the most crpuous neat
the preparation of the cellars and OF every vessel
into which the wine enters Every object the least often
svo is carefully excluded that IT. flavor shall not be
con. animated.
Il is curious fact that this second fermentation always
takes place about the time the Young buds begin to put
forth on the vines the following Spring which has led
20 suppose that there IS some sort Of sympathy De-
tween the and the new shoot as n the former
wanted 70 itself from its unnatural bondage ana
be bud again" or, as if il meant 10 make protest. by
this a erna struggle against the harsh decree by when
it, Vegetable life is exiingulshed and s made 10 pass
H. bcinr il assists i'm vaiizng and renein the cnor-
ges of Ii It outliyes this second agony, without
passing into the aceiou fermentation which turns u mo
vinegar, II becomes clear sparkling ana aiohauc' ana
goes acquiring strength, body ana durability fo many
years.
Most Of tho wines Of Sonoma Valley yet in their in
fancy, and ONLY approximaing that state OF perfection
which time Will inevitably give them NeVcfthec's even
now one will find there both red and white wines that at
the age cannot be cxccod IN any part Of The world
And hoy cheap and common too as TO be brought
within the reach Of almost evory inhabitent Indeed II
thing to the dinnor-iable spread, anywhere
without them aud they the boast and pride OF ovoTy
farmhouse in the valley To any who has never seen
the sight IL is worth Journey from the Atlantic States TO
Of their wehled cellars Many oil these contain
from 10000 10 10000 gallons apiece, Kept IN pipes which
hold about 100 gallons apiece ranged around m rows next
the cellar walls Ofcoursc the capacity OF the cellars Is
measured by the capacity Of the vineyards But The latter
increase rapidly in pfoductigenos that the owners are
under The necessity Of constantly enlaging Their cellars
from yo.g TO year. unless they have made provision as
few OF them have done for this wonderful annual increase
10 nothing of the additions made 90 the sze OF the
rneTnrs by putting out new vines every year, the new
cro of grapes is generally double that Of the preceding
year. sud, in favored localities, more than double
Thus for example the vineyard, planted by brother Of
Gen. Batter, yielded. IN 1863 only about 75,0) ID OF
grapes But, IN 1861 thoy gathered of the same more
than 100000 ID And this regular increase goes on iof
many years.
Nor does the vine like other plants die ont after
a certain period and require 20 be rcnevcd One Of ne
grca'ct merits l. that while, thoi any additional Labor
Il is all te time improving IN bearing capacity " n 80
dowed IN n mild climate With the most astonishing vgor
and lonrevity Among the Oldest vines 10 be seen az
sonoma planted By Gen. Vallejo, over - year,
ago. They OF the size or al ordinary apple iee h ION
l single se son. since they acquired sufficient age 10
bear OF all produce enormous crops Of grape, Bn hese
world are entirely cast into the shade by one now hour
sAng in the highest e1ubealee near santa bRfnaN' IN
the DIVER pari d he State. This gigantic specimen meas
uros three feet N diameter, and ~ has bceh ua
over az immense abOr to give full expansion 10 JUS
vigorous growth. I'm favorable scasons lncIeaibe az
II NAV seem II has been known 10 bear over ioOO lb OF
grapes and It's yield il always large enough 10 give com
Portable subsistence 10 the family in whose possession II
has remained for number Of years There Is no reas"
10 doubt therefore tina, the vine in California may IeA'h
the extreme longevity as II already Las le eAIuY' Pr
portions which il ha attained in the most favorable e'
In the Old World. We may get an idea oil WHAT this ION
gevity is when call 10 mind the fact IN hsi9, 'al
the celebrated vineyards Of Tokay were planted y inc
Emperor Pfobus in the third century
sueh are few of the facts that pertain to The CROWN
aud culture OF The vine In California, ana surrey tn! ale
Of inheritance enough the earnest attention hOl
only Of those immediately interested IN the business put
of every wewshcr of his country. The tact tnai nght
here in our midst new kind Of industry Is pnnghg up
and gradually and almost impcrccpnny 0FershauoNIB
every other aroundi-an industry that opens M isb ana
immense avenues OF wealth. one mat Is hot leti9s "
Temporary in is character bn able ID iemlIkaDo u6e
20 widen ana extend ITSELF and hoid food us claim ~
uerpan.nce and Northumberland iac as ms u wen
calculated challenge orr admiration ana 70 invest lg
rst Inn question with on interest and magnitude second
10 none in the land II there any room ior doubt on
these points we ought % hesitate before pohouhcine
so positively upon them But u II wen WI. a
sfrate by repeated expermenis-that IN almost every
nook and corner Of California, away up III ihe eoiFes VI
the Sierra Nevadas, well as IN the numerous euuS ~
hills that bind that grand range win tue oeeaH "nu a."
through the intermediate valleys, the vine may DC maus
10 cover with its luxurancc every speck OF desoale anu
barren surface 1t needs prophets VISION, therefore,
~, Zee in few wears vineyards extensively scattered
over he state thai people will speak fmary OF the
vinecad hills OF California they now speak OF ne
vnelad hills OF France Italy, and TO see thesc 30 P
lidc IN wealth rs not only TO exceed all oheT sources vi
agricultural profit but to fully indemnify Csnlorna
Il her mines were entirely swept out OF e a,,,b
ence. Indeed may 90 iurthei, anu ~srs AM
and valuable as they are bear no comparison IN these
spec with her vince Take year with another Sa
tbcannna weld hermnes less than SJooVvV
~, - ,yben crown 10 the extent they may be-