The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-09-04
THE SEPTEMBER FASHIONS.
Styles of Ladies Dresses, Talmas, Basques Sacques
Sleeves, Etc-New Patterns


Sleeves, Etc.-New Patterns.
The beginning Of this season presents quite
numeI Gus changes in the modes of dresses,
basques, talmas, etc., as well as OF bonnets,
already described; but many OF the features OF
The spring and summer styles are retained.
There are to be more variations in trimmings
than in shapes. Gored skirts are still the pre-
Vaillng style, but they are more elaborately
tlimned than heretofore in rich material.
Gn no previous occasion have there been
so mary attractive styles. The peplum, or
pointed basque, which is very pretty, is made
short and pointed at the back, open at the
sides, and is pointed in front. The back is
close fitting, aud the front loose. belt is worn.
The basque is trimmed with passementerie and
jet ornaments, and may be without sleeves, but
later in the iall sleeves will be necessary for
warmth. In suits there Is an ingenious way of
initiating a peplum basque TOR warm weather.
1t is TO attach basqulne to belt TO be worn
over the SKIRT The body OF the dress serves
double purpose-a dress tor the house and
basque for the street.
Sleeveless sacques for outdoor wear are quite
new, and are designed particularly for very
Young ladies. They are loose, of medium length,
and the right side OF the front is drawn TO the
left shoulder, where il buttons, and thence
slopes gradually 10 the centre. 1t has rather
graceful appearance.
Talmas will be much worn during the present
month, but as the weather becomes colder
sacques will take their place. new pattern
tor talma either of cloth or velvet, is on eXhI-
bition. When made of velvet and trimmed with
fringe and passementere, with jet, it is elegant.
1t is cut in points, one al the back one at the
back OF the arm, ard the other in front
A beautiful evening dress is of canary-colored
silk, the skirt goring and with small plalts. Mar
row scarlet velvet ribbon, in dlamond-shaped
squares, with parallel lines between them, forms
part OF the trimm Within these lines white
Cluny lace is set, giving a pretty effect. The
jacket is narrow at the Sides square in front,
and just double the width OF the sides-the back
oeing square and one-third deeper than the
front. TIE coat-sleeyes are trimmed to match
the ekirt-the lace being narrower
dress of light blue silk is trimmed with
white satin an inch vide, with very narrow
black velvet running through the centre. One
row of this runs around the bottom, above
which three rows are in half squares, aud the
entire front breadth is trimmed TO the waist.
Each seam is covered from the belt to the line
Uf the trimming, and finished with small tas.
sci. The waist and sleeves are trimmed to
match. The buttons have Il jet centre and
white edge.
neat and elegant style of trimming dress
of peplum basque and gOred skirt is with three
rows of velvet, the middle one of contrasting
color white on light silk, and the others of the
same shade as the dress. The velvet extends
around the skirt and medallions are set on the
white, about two inches apart.
A Gabriel dress OF roSe-colored silk is trimmed
with black velvet ribbon, in forms resembling
somewhat pyramid. There are eight of these,
at equal distances on the skirt, each finished
with three tassels. The sleeves and waist are
trimmed in like manner, the sleeve having three
Suldll ldSSels u the top.
Belts WI be made OF the same material as the
dress, and trimmed to match the dress.
Coat sleeves arc almost universally worn,
some quite full at the top, but all small at the
hand There is, however, a great variety of
styles. pretty sleeve is very full at the top,
and the front is cut in three points-one at the
elbow, one above, and the other below it, each
being finished with tassel. Another sleeve is
full over the back of the arm, and the inside Is
plain. For evening dress, a sleeve consisting OF
two pufis, with narrow bands al the top, elbow,
and wrist, is quite pretty. There Is a prospect
that loose, wide sleeves will be revived before
long.
Morning dresses are now made with long flow
ing sleeves over plain coat sleeve. The seam o.
the loose sleeve is left open aud fastened with
| single button at the hand, and falls away in a
| long, deep point
| There is new invention for looping dresses.
| IT consists OF a short chain or silk cord, fas-
| tened to clasps, which can be attached to any
| part of the DRESS either outside or inside. Ii
| on the outside, the dress can be lowered on
| entering building almost instantly by slipping
! the dress from the lower clasp. The skirt can
be looped again very easily and quickly on
| passing out. The clasps are made in silver,
| steel, jet, and silk cord.
In children's dresses there is no great change.
| They are sometimes made with double skirt,
| and all are much trimmed.