The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-05-26
THE WORLD OF FASHION
Latest Modes for Dresses The
Changes In Styles for Bonnets
and chapeaux-The New
Materials in Vogue,
Etc. Etc. Etc.

Etc. Etc. Etc.
To describe the gradual change of the fashions
from week to week Is a matter requiring more care
and observation than would first sight, appear to
the of the fashion column and so slight are
the changes that take place in the course OF seven
days that IT IS almost impossible to say anything
new the subject from one week 70 another. The
foreign journals for the present week, however TEEN
with interesting news ON this subject Our French
friends have, apparently, wed with each Otner in
dong honor TO our fair songstress Adelina Patti;
and, 1t their custom TO show by their of
dressing thelr admiration tor anything or anybody,
they have nnorded Us abundant opportunity to de-
scribe recent brilliant toilets. The following are
Paris, and our taIr friends VIII find 1t to their ad-
vantage TO bear IN mind these descriptions in getting
ready their wardrobes Tor the coming watering-pace
seasons: white tUlle dress bOuiHiOpRee round the
iower half Oh the skirt; low coat bodice made of
straw.coored sik-the coat was vandyked, and the
pipings a deep houDce of point P ARg,et terTe was
sewn ali round the Goa narrow b0uitioHnee OF
wIlte tuo replaced the berthe round the shoulders
The head dress was composed OF fiat gold braid, With
cameo on it-an effective style OF banae ct.
sisted of a white Chambery gauze dress, with VIDE
PINK satin stripes on III under this PINK gtdce slip,
shot with white. The gauze dress was in the Prin-
cesse form, and cut out round the edge wide
vandykes. These vandykes were bordered with a
notcDed out PINK silk ruche, edged with narrow
white blonde. The low bodice was plain, and had
no other ornament a small reUerS of PINK silk
with or, stal irlnge round IT.. pink moire walst
band-not very wide-enclrcled the waist and still
narrower en1s iell low at the side of the skirt.
A youthful bruno, whose beauty crea'ed quite
| sensation made a very novel toilet. The dress
white, and OF the mater al called crepon de Chine,
| which is almost light ChamOerY gauZe, but
coarser and not 80 brilliant IN effect rhe dress was
| cut a PEBlpire. and terminated with an immensely
long train. Round the edge OF the train there
thick rncne of white tulle, headed with garland OF
| sented IN gold peplum of white crepOn de Chine
was fastened at the waist, and the upper part
thlckly covered with crystal beads, and the border
| richly embroidered to represent olive leaves The
| pepum was quite of antique form, with long points
at the sides gold assels at the four lhe
! waistband was gold, and 1t fastened with small
| jeweed clasp. The headdress Ia Josephine,
and consisted of small Tnglets the forehead and
of q gar and of olive leaves, which formed Benoiton
on the throat the comb at the back was jewelled
For evening, white bOdces, made entirely OF lace
| are very much admired and many ladies prefer
| them rather than the conventional iow-necked and
short-sleeved evening dress To a great many
vision of q white neck, and fair round arms just
cleaning through lace, IS far more attractive lhan
the ordinary sight of bare shoulders and arms. A
| very costly and beautiful style of white bodice is
made OF guipure lace, worked expressly for the
purpose: others less expensive ana quite as pretty,
| are made of alternate rows OF lace insertion and
| puffngs of tulle or wash blonde.
| Ibis fashion of lace bodices which will increase
here as soon as the weather grows warmer, will in
| troduce q novelty VIII ch has already been received
with great favor abroad-that of outdoor coverings
in the same style short loose paletot shape the
same as the sack that has so long been fashionable
with us, will be made of alternate rows OF Chantiy
| insertion and gupure lace, separated by rows of
all round with ruches OF lace SET on with passemen
terie or bugle gimp and is certain that few street
| garments Will be more beautiful.
In Paris the new fashions are generally to be seen
upon the race course. which ls much trequented by
ladies of the highest rank and the newest and most
elegant toilets to be seen there long before they
| have made their appearance anywhere else,
1T curious" !" writes a we'll known Paris cor
respondent to observe at The last races to wnat eX
tent blue prevaied 1t is certainly the tavorite color
of the season, and few nappler selections could be
made for a dayighC hue. The fashionable shade is
called the Empress blue; it is not the same SHADE
as that introduced some nIne ears ago-whlch
was somewhat of the corn.fower blue-but far
brighter. 1t is neither light nor dark but rather an
in ense turquoise; altogether of the most beauti
tul tones OF color l have ever seen, especially in
satin.
MANY of these dresses were worn with casaques
to match, bordeTed with crOss-cut bands or wni
| silk. The casaQues fitted the figure, and were cut
out IN square basaues, which, in addition TO the
white silk bands were Iurther Ornamented with
crystal beads and white blond.
IA very elegant toilet consisted OF blue gros grain
| the skirt was trimmed at the edge with a narrow
plating of white silk, headed with crOsscut band
OF blue corded with white. The skirt was trimmed
| so as to simulate tunic with FIVE WIDE sash ends
Of blue silk corded with white; tue longest end fall
| ing naturally in the centre OF the back breadth
small pdietOisdt to ma Oh, trimmed with crosscut
band of blue andua white ruche, Lambae g bonnet
with wreath OF blue conYolVuh, completed the
| toilet
Several ladies of the fashionable world, Whose
names are well known IN society, wore blu toilets
me la Comiesse de Plerres appeared IN n rich blue
81 DRESS with moniants OF ClnnY guipure on every
breath of the skirt Nine la Pnncess DEL de Ia IRE
| blue striped with white, blue Pameaibonnet stud
ded with daisies and host OF Others too tedious TO
1
everywhere, wherever the eye rested 1t was GER
tain to be on one OF these pretty fresh toilets, in
| which the new blue predOmInated. IL might have
| been an OxfOrd and Cambridge boat race instead
| OF q Paris race.course
"The Princess Metternch drove on to the course In
| her well-knOwn yellow baIouche, drawn by four
| horses, driven by two positions in yellow velvet
| jackets and black faclngs. The servants in yellow
| liveres and with powdered heads. The occupant of
this showy turnout was very simply dressed in black
81 k, with vide PINK sash and black silk casqqet,
with pink bow and ends ut the back, and another
| on the sleeve. small black tulle Pamela bonnet,
| with rose at one side, and fastened with pink
| strings. Nine de Galltet wore similar toilette,
| with the exception OF white trimmings beiug sub
sti uted for the pink ones, less uncommon, but
tainly not so original.
silk dress shot with white. The skirt was trimmed
with three rows OF black velvet trnged with crystal
he front breadth ornamented at each side with
bows OF black velvet formed OF loops and long crYs
| tai aIgulllettes. The casaque was peplum with
pointed basques, and over it there black velvet
| walstband embr ordered and frnged with crystal.
large Henry ~ bow fastened the band at the side,
| and similar bow decorated the left shoulder ana
| tell with two long ends on the skirt A black tule
| Bonnet covered tmckY with q shower of crystal
beads, with no other ornament save large tea
| at the side completed this very stylish toilette "
| The various trimmings which the present season
4 brings us are extremely pretty. For Instance
black velvet ribbon, embroidered IN stars white
silk, alternating with tinv stars of mOtner-Otpearl
THIS trimming Is a great fayorte for trimming sacks
and mourning dresses; and some eXtravagant ladies
20 so far as to loop W their dresses With 1t. For
very rich dresses the gmpure laces headed with jet
are esteemed beautitul as also are the guipures em.
| brOidered with straw. The later have a very fne
effect on such silks corn color cherry, bright
| blue.
| In bOnnets the variety becomes more bewlldering
| every. day The following are some OF the most
beautiful we have seen during the week;-
First. A gypsy bonnet of fine white tule, sHr-
| rounded with vi0lets clustered with dewdrops The
| stlings are of ribbons to match the flowers, with
vlOets placed down the ribbons for about two inches