, 1866-11-23
THE FASHIONS.
A Coup D'Etat in Silk Fabrics.

nllnEs-Ilints About skirts and How
70 cut Thcm-Wtnter Cloths nnd
Eoetots-Eollets for a Rothschlld,
Correspondence of The New Yor. Herald.1 !
In consequence of the great nnd Wide
Il has been 1 omons TIE Lyons SIX
tiers that, in order to provide un:lreds Of
unemployed workmen with labor we are ,ot
to be admitted into any iashiopablc asscm.
bly, in plain silk robes. The richest bTorade
figured silk danask and brocatellcs are to he
adopted ut court. These rich SIX flbr,cs d.
not carry US more than twenty years back,
but, the cut Of these materials IS to follow
the styles favored under the Restoration aud
In the beginning Of this century; when our
very narrow skirts. That they were 50 We
may not doubt. on closing the Memoirs
ofthe Duchess d'Abrantes, in which, from her
description of some Of the beauties under the
First Empire, some hope can be derived
wherewith 10 enliyen the present state Of
affairs. Brocade is very heavy. therefore
suggest that your readers should enter into
tue spirit Of the conclnve formed by women
Of taste In Parls, aud content themselves this
winter WITH figured elk in preference to
damasks- Bouquets Of flowers on appropri-
ate grounds will always be more tasteful and
womanly than large spreading patterns,
Should any pretty plilanthropist consider It
duty to order in stiff silk cloth, let her
SVNEA ACA ENIAa anew USE IL LOT R1nI1W
hnDgings, which expenditure will duiet her
conscience, eHcetualiy relieve her purse, and
do the Lyons weayers world of good.
have seen some Of the new patterns
which arc TO be manufactured on figured
silks. The following are perfectly artistic
Trails Of colored chry ysanthemums On iirht
brown ground, white and violet periwinkles
on light emerald green, snowdrops on porcc.
lain blue. clusters Of lilac on very dark green
and many others.
The MY Of The ynlley pattern on long
spear Leaf is lovely with nlauve. There are
also showers Of miniature sprays all over
! black corded silk, and black being so fish
i nable, think both ecunomv and style eau
be combined IN one Of the latter. It may he
as well to remind your readers here that ar
lists snch as Gericault, Cambron and ThIcery
we're six designers at Lyons before they be-
came illustrious painters.
| The piece Of sultana that VAS manufactured
io5 the Empress last summer tpansies on
white Erounl), and Of which second piece
was then ordered for next years exhibition.
is to b. copied on the rich white gross grain
! Tor winter toilets at court. Nothing car, be
more tasteful than the figured ribbons which
arc to BE- used for trimmings, ETC. particu-
larly recommend the field fiower pattern tor
necktics and the rich cactus on xidc Tallicn
sashes. hear OF ladies at the TuiIcrics who.
III TITS OF unbouEded beneyo1ence mot extra.
sance), are bent On appearing next season
at au the court festivities in urreasnrable
1
hope your readers will be advised TO prefer
sober display Of ribbons, though they can
be Of the richest, and it would be we'll II
there could be some degrce Of unity in every
lady,s choicc- The auwer adopted should
also be In harmony with the wearer's turn of
mind. thus converting her into an animated
violet, misnonettc or hcliolrope. The per-
iuMc on her laccs should even be that Of her
iaTortte flower, and thu hca1-dress of course
IN Keeping with the rest. This may be
| thNnrhf i,{eO1 nd BALLAD 81 T..
all is well. We were so very psosaic In Jockey
attire that the change will perhaps be accept
While walking down the Bouleyards. n
few days ago, observed that our so1cd tilt
Ing skirts over colorcd plisse petiicoats are
either graceful or much the contrary. There
are ladies In Paris who will adopt every new
inslion without any consideration as to acc
Or proportion. A stout lady, with l. foot
that may not be compared to anything mrial,
indcnted, SO painfully Eat as her elegant
daughter, who trips Oh BY her side with all
the dcEage grace Of eighteen summers.
Then, again, though always commend in-
dnsiry, here ! 9o1leed that very handsome
materials had been cut By amateur dress
makers. without any notion Of measure. If
such mistakes as this occur In Paris, where
the art OF dress Is almost the only one In
which French ladies arc proficient, l have
Imagined thut they may exist In New York,
I T.
tions as fixed rules for short tourreaE1:
Every brca 9TH should be cut aslant, even
were the stuff but half o yard wide; the width
round the bottom Of au entirely dat skirt
Should only be ten centimctres wider than
the top circumference. Ladies who are no
no longer quite young should wear their
skirts tiat in the front aud on the sides, but
allow two deep plaits to be made ut the back
md one or two little ones under each arm.
ln this case the bottom Of gored skirt
Eh m Il n
top. The usual width of gored dresses not
| 5ouyrtdur is six metres and bali.
The new winter tuftcd cloths have come
out N all shades, though black Is preferred
Tor the prevailing palctot-sac: The Polar
bears fleece will bc much used for the morn
ing wear, but the plush I described few
weeks ago will be the richest materials for
full dress. It Is often ribbed with velvet in
the newest shades, which nre called golden
rain, pupfurine, cuin and peach glow. Cir
enlars of any OF these produce most sump~
The three different faWn tints now so fash-
lonable have received somewhat singular
denominations, thus: The Hghtest MMu is
called .'Bismark In u Bad Humor," tue sec.
ond' % degree dnlker' rBlsma5k Very Gross, :"
Bad" After this it would be as we'll to give
up fawns, us there arc so many other states
men who never show tantrums. I may as
well soy that the newest fashionable Witt
e'sH which court lev so'ons'' is '.ie me L de-
monde." Il will never be so popular as
Lambert" but It means about as much.
"A few splendid toilets have left Paris for
Ferrtcres, which Is the private property Of
the Baron J. dc Rothschi1d. Three days of
unequalled pageantry arc to be held ii his
princely chateau.
The Venetian style of all the most elegant
dresses was remarkable-slashed salins,
Genoa velvets, Maltese lace, medieval jer.
klps, and either very tight or very wide
| JeTeEs sleeves. One ball dress I wilt de-
scribe from among large number Of short
tarlatans, which are to be worn only by
dancers, and fearfully long train robes, COW
cred With ruche, embroidery, tullc, tufted
chenille and marabout.
The robe admired the most was made Of
straw-colored poult de sole, but Of the very
lishtest shade, almost cream color. It was
cut low, princess form and scolloped round
the shoulders, the sleeves were mere bre-
telles, the front one overlapping scollop on
the back. The front width was trimmed
with embroidered vine and lcayes In all the
autumn tints, here and there rich purple or
light green leai; or lay over cluster Of
darker ones. The fruit and leaves were work
| ed with colored floss silks. The same pat
tern was continued behind round the train i.
The head dress to this was composed Of
frosted vine leaves, and the eur rings were en-
amelled grapes; 4 lace under chemlsette
was the most useful part Of the body. The
most approved style Of hair dressing is "a
,narteau1," which means rolls of curls pinned
up at the ends and placed in tapering rows,
with gold cord or velvet rouleanI between.
There is nothing new in 'stolttfes de vale, ~
since my last browns and blues continue to
meet with universal favor, and while I am
frain from saying that know some who
| steeped in both the AbruVusH and ufhe