New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1866-11-10
THROUGH EsTROPICS.

OFF AFRICA. on THR DESERT CoAST-LlMA AND ITS
INTERESTING RDIFICES--ITs HOTELS, CAFES AND
STRANGE HOUSBS-iTS WRLL-DRbSSRD MEN AND
BEAUTIFUL LADIBs-THB cHOLoS-EXCBLLkNf
MATERIAL or THE PERUVIAN ARMY, RANK AND
YLE-COWARDICE AND TRBACHERY OF THB ofH-
CERS-PRESBST STATE or PRRU-LARGk NUMBER
OF HIGHWAYMRS-A HAHD-TO-uNND FIGHT WITH
ROBBERS ON THg ROAD-PERU OK THE EyB or
ANOTHER REvOLUuOH-PRADO VS.. BALTA-THE
QUESTIONS AT ESUE-wILL THE sPASIARDS RI
TURN i--AMERICAN REPRESENTATION IN PERU-
OLD LINA-ITS CATHEDRAL AND CHURCHES
PIZARRo's TONB-WHERR AND HOW HE WAS
AssASslNATRD-THB NQUIsITI0S' AID HOW ITS
POWER WAS LOST-SOCTHwARD BouSD-THB
GOOD SHIP CHILL AND ITS oFRICRS-THk PORTS
OF ISLAY AND AFRICA.
From Special Correspondent
OgP Auc, peru October =. IsoG
II now O'Clock IN the morning, and the ship is roll
ing heavily in the large groundvcN which never ceases
to food with foam the bold volcanic ridges Of this desert
oosst-o desert for thousand mles, from Che equator to
below the Chilan boundary.
NV previous letter WIS dated n Lima and then knew
but little Of that wonderful old city Of GDe churches and
fair ladies' That only two weeks but now, i've
hundred miles further South and half seasck WITH the
steamships lazy roll it waows like monster, II the
long blue swes-Lna with It's palaces and grottOes and
sacred hills Lima with its fountains 6ud rockreafed
churches which the Spaniardt bu LHE VAN H. lnowl-
edge Of Piano and his i-oI lart ana with It's strange
sweet atmosphere OF the OLD Mid Inca rule returns to me
like q yoluptuou, dream.
Almost every Northern man. u visiting South America
for the frs time will I've most agceaby surprised upon
visiting Lima which, as geue.s thing, he regards as
deed city with faint pusGtion of be perhaps where
Caao is foreign populated port, does business With the
sea- He knows from his mgp ,ha, Lima has over one
hundred thousand Inhabitants, and must therefore be
large; but his conception OF is ,astless il mostly col
lection Of adobe huts hlod with Caoocs and ew dirty
soldiers waiting for the next " revolution
But there never was greater mistake Lmais, in more
respects than your New YoT4, lovely city Most OF
the houses strong, well built Of stone Or sundned
brick with walls Of great thickness aud universally yell
low in coor-not bad contrast with the dusky veduTe
of the surrounding hills Tor the Srsuiaos understood the
harmony Of color, as many great painting in these
churches win attest. The terror OF ca lake rs ever
lasting and therefore most OF the tlva I'D houses are
Of only one story But there Is peclar c'afm IN inc
plan upon which they are built This pan consists OF a
sort Of walled Enclosure facing the street with portal ~
the middle and very generally lovely garden, with q
fountain which has 10 be taveIsed before reaching the
door OF the collection OF apartments Do t3e rear.
Either with without the garden, iflt system OF real
denccs is almost universal IN Lima, snd thcie IS 10
sweeter spot 20 live. Even the business houses are
very frequently arranged in similar manner. cannot
better express myself than by naTang my search FOR the
newspaper Offices Of Lima, with whom desire TO nave
business relations roamed the streets Tor AN enre dhY
vauly en0eayOung 20 espy some spot family resembling
that TRIBUNE corner o. spruce aud
Nassau-sts. In the moral City Of NewNOrk At last, by
the old OF cOpper-coored guide was directed 70 portal
which gave entrance into q lovely garden OF flowers
sparkling fountains end goldfish md tame. feudIy
plumed, swecy birds, wh never desert Their
little Eden spot, where cOncutnent grows for them Ike
the very flowers whose honey they love 20 sip small
sign over the door of the interior building the itself
half bid in wreathiDg ynes and the duh leaden tick,
tick OF falling tppe, Gpprlse that IN entering The
punting-o6ce and editorial rooms Of 'Li N0clOn0L'
ind the gentlemen in the editorial room urbane and
polite and rather anxious than otherwise % communicate
with me. iuasmuch Us they speak excellent Iostlan
1.-THE best Spanish in the world is spoken ia Peru and
EcuadOr and answer them with species OF slaughtered
Spanish which must resemble hybrid Chinese, under
stand coch other in the OF hour end separate
rejoicng-on the party Of the first part, r. least.
Two doors further up the same street leads me 10 the
Office Of III Comerco, whose interior sarctumS are ar
preached by lOWeTy psh, much the same as have IN
daeated respecting FL AGc,oHG and / receive equally
good treatment here. word TO the conduct OF the
Peruvian South American taHbis7y newspapers The
editorial room Of large newspaper consists o. about i've
individual editors J. Tho managing editor generally Tie
proprietor Of the newspaper who niles the root in every
Tepeo There is publisher, no foreman OF the compo-
son department The Peruvian managing EDITORS here
and there and away sgsn, sDd Isett biz into almost
everything. He has uudes him four editors. One OF
these looks after local matters, 6nd bto understood 70
undetand the revolutions Of the country After writing
I'D the local murders rObberis and rap Of the day sup
pose there is 10 be revolution hand. The heavy
doOrs OF the city begin 20 swing 10 with an ominous
crash the respectable cztns desert the streets ard the
mob enter the city with and buzlss trng at he
windows and shooting down any unlucky man who
msy he in the street end who may have forgotten
the colOrs which the revOutOns have adopted as their
standard The soldiers are TUNED out hastily ana each
company df its captain has not sold ~ fires its yoey
through the darkness The volutonith succeed or are
routed and the noble city editor sits quietly IN his Office
and without the aid OF reporters records the result for
the mornings paper Another editor is poet who turns
everything that be into rhyme though he knows lit
lie OF what he writes Another supposed 10 be trans
islo4. AID oi che benefit Of toresa readers, he sil