The Middlebury register. [volume] (Middlebury, Vt.) 1850-1882, 1866-05-30

also one which, on the slippery, wcll-worn
floor, renders progress difficult as on the
ice OF an Alpine mountain. But oh
how different from the keen, pure air,
the wide horizon, the glittcring sunlight,
of the Alps, this dark, suifocating cavern,
where the dust, and lights, and breaths OF
heated men, make an atmosphere scarcely
TO be breathed, and where the sentiments
Of awe and horror almostl paralyzc the
pulse Perhaps my special fancy made
me then, as ever since, find n cave, sub
terranean passage, or tunnel, unreasona-
lily trying to the nerves but so it was,
the awe of the place well nigh overpow-
cred me.
The Arab guides helped Inc along in
their well known way. One or two car
ried the candles, and all joined in sort
of song at which could not help laugh
ing in spite of my awe and lack of breath
1t seemed to me chant of mingled Arab
ic and English "a language all spoke after
Il fashion, the English words being APP
parently a repetition:
VERY goot lady, backsh,sh backshish;
Very goot lady, give us backsh sh
and SO on, de cdpo. Twice we had to
rest on our way from sheer exhaustion,
and on one occasion, where there is a
break in the continuity of the passage,
there was an ascent into hole in the
wall by no means easy of accomplish
ment.
At last, after what seemed an hour,
and suppose was about fifteen minutes,
Since we left the sunshine, we stood in
Cheops' burial vault, the centre chamber
of the Great Pyramid. AS my readers
know, it is small oblong chamber, of
course wholly without light or vcntila-
tion, with plain stone floor, walls and
roof, and with the huge stone sarcopagus
(Which once held the mummy Of Clcops,
but is now perfectly empty standing at
one cnl. The interest of the spot alone
would have repaid journey from Eng
land but ! was left small time to enjoy
it. Suddenly was startled to observe
that my guides had stopped their song
and changed their obsequious voices; and
were all five standing bolt upright against
the walls of the vault.
at is the CUSTOM" said one of them,
'for whoever comes here to give us.back-
shish."
| l reflected a moment that they had
seen me foolishly transfer my purse from
the pocket of my riding skirt to the
walking dress i wore under it, and which
l had alone retained on entering the
Pyramid.
"Well," / said, as coolly as I wa,
able, 81 intend, of course, to give you
'backshish' for your trouble, and if you
choose TO be paid here instead of at the
door, it is all the same to me. l shall
give three shillings English "a favorits
coin in Cairo) as l said only wanted
three men,"
"Three shilling are not enough. We
want backshish - ..
"l'hcre they are. They are quite en-
ough."
''Not enough. We want backshish y
must here confess thaLthings looked
rather black. The Fellahs stood like SC
many statutes Of OSIRIS (even at the mo-
ment | could not help thinking of iD,
with their backs against the wall and
their arms crossed on their breasts, as il
they held the .Ragelium and cruz aasata.
Their leader spoke in calm, doggcd sort
of way, to which they all responded like
echoes
"Well," said, "as their are five OF
you, and l am rather heavy, l will give
you one shilling more. There it is.
Now you will get no more. Saying this
give the man the fourth shilling, and
then returned my purse to my pocket.
"This won't do. We want back
shish !"
SIT must do. You will get no more
backshish."
'It won't do. We want backshish !"
Each moment the mems voices grew
more resolutc, and must avow that hor-
ror seized me at the thought that they
had nothing to do but merely to 90 out
and leave me in the solitude and darkness
and should go mad from terror. Not
a creature in Cairo even knew where !
was gone. l should not be missed or
sought for for days, and there l was un-
armed, and alone, with these five saw
ages, whose caprice or resentment might
make them rush off in a moment, leaving
me TO despair. Luckily knew well it
would be fatal to bctray any alarm, so
spoke lightly as could, and laughed Il
little but uncomfortably. a a
"Come, come. You will have no
more backshlsh, you know very well
and if you bully me, you will have st ck
from the English Consul Come, Eve
seen enough. Let us go out"
"We want backshsh /" said all five of
the villains in one loud voice. 1t was a
crisis, and believe if | had wavered
moment l might never have got away
but the extremity, of course, aided ones
resolution, and spoke out angrily and
peremptorily:
"Tll have no more of this. You fel-
low, there, take the light, and 90 out.
You give me your hand. Come along,
all of you"
1t was a miracle TO my comprehen-
sion, at all events. They one and all
suddenly skunk down like so many scold-