The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1866-09-21
FALL AND WINTER FASHIONS.
me MlIIiners' Opening-FaII Styles In BON.
nets, Hats, Dresses, Trimming, Acc
Fashions Gala Day Among tho
Modlsfes-The Novelties ON
Exhibition Yesterday.
he. &c. &es


theatrical that allimporiant anniversary
90 dear TO the feminine heartthe miners opening day.
Unfortunately Heaven did not smile propitous The
hoped for fine day was failure. All day long tho rain
fell but the ladies, nothing daunted, protested II was
only slightly damp, and shopped all day long, with That
ndependence OF wind and weather for which the danes
Of tho metropolis famous. Yet what lady would
hesitate or regard the weather when "a love or
bonnet'' is at stalker Delays, always dangerous, arc
specially so when VIC consider the nnumerable host
who to be supplied with beauty's browning orna
mont yesterday 80, regardless Of everything else the
ladies said to themselves owen never mind the
weather so the wind don't bow.n
From early morn TIL dewy eve--not literally from the
peep OF day until dusky night; but during the hours
when beauty Is wont TO present itself 10 the admiration
Of promenading gazers-those portions Of Broadway
vhero ladies most do peregrinate throDged with
fair and animated crowd. Woman with characteristic
sarnestness threaded her way through the human
labyrinth with fervor that declared her bent upon
snnnd Of vast importance. No matter how dense the
crowd she proved herself equal to the occasion with
umbrella hostcd and elbows extended she tilted and
osted along, devong her whole the duty of the
hour. Mankind, recognizing that her day had at
Ast-suffage or no suGrage-yielied her the sidewalk,
or four-6fths Of IL, with an unusual aGabillty
Never seen such array Of smiling faces Happy
creatures caring not for expenses sohat their poremon
Eaies we'll filled with the'neodfu: little rocking
whence it coneth whittier II gooth; pursuing the
tenor OF their way, free from tho carkng cares Of
the counting room Surely in their happy lives there Is
nothing 10 conceal, nothing 10 regret But alas even
has her internal care, though be not written
her brow. Those features cain, placid,
rued and serene tell nothing of the sghs and sobs the
iaunts and tears, the caolery and Caude, the many
other arts OF feminine diplomacy brought to bear on
unappreciative husbands and papas at the morning
dtjeune Hard-hearted mankind has never fathoned
ono half the chagrn and that OH the hearts OF
wives and daughters when ontdessed oubonneted by
some more fortunate Flora Won Flimseyberg On this
occasion, however, frowns dofed with robes de
ehdtr and with their street dresses The fair donned
those smiles Of triumph that bespeak accomplished
purpose and plethoric purses.
The array Of beauty on the sidewalks, however, at
sacted but little attention In comparison with that be-
slowed upon the brilliant displays In the windows.
Bquads OF ladies' Ave and six deep assembled in fror OF
many OF the establishments while at of the larger
crowds make locoinotion those neghborhoods
most difficult matter. Charming, lovely. petie, splendid,
elegant unique reechs ana al The adleclye3 ana al
vequtsuon TO express the appreciation OF demonsuaiivo
bekoders.
adv's wardrobe In 1t her costume reaches It's climax
OF perfection. Is the cornice to the columnthe
Adorning apex TO tho full dressed pyramid IL forms the
framework IN which Il set that most lovely picture that
combination OF nature and OF arthe female face; and
makes classic in appearance many head that without
Il has no claim whatever TO beauty Of figure
Is IL tnen wonder that on this tiny thing this petite
thought or that tho great question OF yesterday became
where ~ ind the most imposing display Of millinery
B0nnefs.
The great variety OF shapes brought out last
seems last exhausted the invention Of the
Parsan mlliners; for really there IL but little novelty
among fall and winter styles. Crowns and skirts are
Bona fde hats Tho Lambslle el holds its sway, hnt
greatly modulated and varied There tho round the
fhls last has for its individual coenomen tho name
Italian, and very much resembles the head coy
.ns worn By peasants IN ay This bon
paraleIogram, being longer from front to back than
from side % SIDE This paallelogram whether Of silk
velvet OF straw, is trimmed all its -four sides
while the left entirely plain This bordering Is
sometimes wreath OF artificial flowers, but oftenor Of
flowers Of jct The front OF this unique hat hts closely
20 the forehead excluding tho slightest vesligc OF
yuche other face trimming. Tho ronnd and pointed
Iambalos differ from tho Italian not only shape bu.
n trimming Tic centre instead Of the sdos bepg tie
place where trimming IL profusely displayed. large
stars either OF flowers OF Jet q combination OF both
are placed ON TOP and in tie centre Of these
r. also narrow baud Of velvet on tho forehead by way
The Gadateur shorn Of its bronze horse which always
looked terribly out OF place on lady head but retan-
ing that graceful accessory, the long willow plume,
still degeryedy popular though ~ prestige n somewhat
dimncd by charming little fiat hat called by some the
Catalan by others the Catno, and again the Cateonan.
embracing tho best features OF the two favoe styles
3he Cstne Is intended only for very young ladies' aud
makes q fresh and youthful face positively bewitohing
In trimming, the Benoton chains and immense
or last are happily bGnshed In lieu Of these
there various ornaments in jet and crystal and In
pearl. II would have been dialcuit matter TO have
found on exhibition yesterday single bonnet IN winch
these ornaments dil not form conspIcuoqs part On
many French hats there acacrs OF real blonde lace,
others there are falling from the chm the braids DO
Manienon or long loops o. q thick velvet piping on
which flowers are placed and yet again there are long
floating ribbons beaded with Jet Delicate marabort
feathers used than for many years past In
artificial flowers there In the same Partially
hbited during tho summer for autumn flowers, and
especially for tho serc and yellow leaves that Tell us
ssthe melancholy days have Gomez chrysanhemums
, and dahhas popular, and among Other flowers seldom
initiated b. art tho nasuron has been copied THIS sea
with great success Clustere Of red berries are
Ied a ma
sthor striking contrasts meet the eye
When asked 10 regard 70 iea ng co,ors The mllnors
al say that Tho frors for black will this winter eclipse
any thing known before II II also predicted that
garnet Will be even more worn thsn was last winter
Our Is sad viii be revived not the paio shabby TINT
worn year two since, bat and besntfn shade.
Asa prelude to ihesgrard affair Of Thursday, Mr. James
Higgins. at S45 Broadway and also AZ Tho large csab
nshmcnt Sixth avenue taking Tune by The forelock
exhibited One display Of bonnets and round hats on
Wednesday. This establishment brought out the now
universally worn Gladiator, and untn this has
znado n specially Of round hats Now, however. they
added regular boanets their sock, and have many
very beautiful exhibition One Of their own
creation they call the Rst0r. This In small bonnet
exceedingly short the front plece, but with Tat crown
and fall OF Lace 70 simulate skirt Ono that attracted
special attention Of Helena blue velvet With sai
Of polnl lace attached to the crown lons haraboat
feather falls from the 'front.' backward the left s.ds
Ornaments OF cut stool nta feeiencd 70 the eEown AID
velvet baud al tho forehead finishes ca this handsome
Another siyic, cnli-a ,hs iaer9gaJ's, vas oombna
ton Of green vciyet and real bioaio lace wreath %
green velvet leaves clambeed ths stylish lat "a
which crystals were interminaied.
Tbo evening hat fanchonette, vas y blonde, com.
plctrly covered With marsb0nt feathers Ihs ialry
ching hal band or seivgt Ia front With pelfa1t
ecariet feathers b. way q face trimming. The Lady
Don, introduced ~ tbs honss, boanst exceedingly
neat ant s'ylsh ard suitable FOR Tie Promenade q
French gray ici. with rgstts ~ no ccntfe q green
velvet surmouuied ~ Jci ornament ms hai Fery
much refoinhes tho Italian In shape beug 00ong, but
a. more rOa nlcd IN front and nach.
Ar1wItfV VARIETY
On Thlraiay mCr4ugi h0weSef, tho excitement be.
came intauiiol. 40 SEQ became moro important de-
sire than . u ccn ne ntcpld Sos, undaauiad -
the cgasre rB, haeteaet Iowa Br0atSHy and a. Canal
street hean The ~ inspection az tor cs3hh cni
~ Madame iG4imra. Hero exhibited b8wl4cFigy
variety, and army ~ pretty thing ula could Gol
fa - SATISFY the iae 0f tae ao4s "eucertu, coy and
hard u piatse."
A bonna that orci,sd special enthusiasm here WA