New Orleans daily crescent., 1866-10-27
winter Fash1ons.
cEoAKs, sHA@Ls AND ruRs.

u tiiDac Iue morse ana the dog. w
meaaIhohs and buttons; but now as the colt
weather comes on, the dog star sets, and the bear
ia 10 nave his day; Ursa Major appears above the
l9rlzon Ion and gives his name to the shaggy sacks,
winch hereafter are to be known as the polar bear,
sls grlzzly, etc. The Angora goat has also been
ioDoed OF ms thick, warm fleece to add to FEM
| ihne comfort; and we have besides these the
n1isgschan cloth and lamb skin, the eames' hair,
@ lama ana Alpine cioaking. The polar bear is of
course white and thick, and shaggy and is suitable
M lof the street when comfort is most requisite but
y 700 rough IN appearance for opera or evening
cloth T. a da oFess Is required Astrachan
much used last winter for NUTS and yetorines II
mas snort knobby tufts, Is Of all cfet roiara and
y = sald VIII be more used for ordinary wear than
| any other material The Alpine and sar,a1z, bair.
are beautifully fine and soft and make a.-cei
rent a evening WrappiBgs. There is great variety
OF coior and design in these cloths Pure White
are alY nop orgoaI esnets hair and lima but there
heece, OF striped in gilt and black. Or bIne an9
Whlte; and more beautiful still ID the ateIIa Tlsa
sLyJr sotbs anu ar gs stars on white ground These
per yafd, put they are wide, and fortunately II
does not take many yards to make cloak.
For the present season ga cashmere sacks are in
| great requIsltion. These are made in all eoIors
but purple and black predominant pr,-Ie IL =
| faverite color in all kinds Of material. Loose
| cashmere paletots are lined and Wadaad and
would be inexpensive but for the elaborate trim
mings of jet that are layiahed upon them.
Although rough cloths are most used many
pattern cloaks are made Of heavy French beaver.
| Most of those imported are Of steel gray purple
/ There can, of course, never be anything more
elegant than velvet. bat this year there is beau
tiful article of plush fine and costly as velvet.
/ which many consider preferable.
\ The French cloaks lately imported are exceed
/ ingly gracefRl though there is bat little novelty
| or variety in shape. Wide, flowing sleeves cores
set in at the side, and deep points at the back and
side, constitute the difference between the loose
sacGge OF this season and of this. Circulars, in
which there can De nothing new and iaunty, tight
| fitting basques, with skirts deeply pointed be-
| hind, rolling collars, coat sleeves and pockets
/ with large flaps, compete in vain with tie loose
\ sacquc ior supremacy.
| The gored sacGue will without dorfbt prevail ~
it was exhibited at all the establishments at yes-
terday's opening, and is made up in all kinds of
material. variety of Bames are given it such as
the Metternich, the Empress--and one house think.
ing to make it the h0od-tide that Shakespeareis
adage leads on to fortune,'i has enhanced its
| popularity by labelling it the Rstori. Call 1t nv
what name they may, it is the handsomast style
yet brought out, andis great improvement on the
loose paLetots of last season. The ioses that are
introduced at the side make the garment slope
away gracefully at the back, aud prevent it from
hopping IN. The open-poiated sleeve is objected
to by some on account Of the exposure but this is
remedies by small coatsleeVe being worn inside
the larger one and on some Paris cloaks there sa
sleeve which folds up on the inside of the arm en-
tfrey protecting it, while the outside the mate
r1al is cut into pointed fall that perfectly slyI-
lates the regular oriental sleeve. The skirts OF
these are not long, but are cut in variety of
shapes. Some short at the back and long on
the sde while others are Shorthand square in front,
and deeply pointed at the back. Instead of scol-
| l9ps, there are sharp Vandykes and battIementei
! squares and pointed saw teeth, by way of orna-
raents. Pendants of jets or bugle tassels droop
from these points, and they are often fastened
| together, eath meeting teeth byjet clasps Belts
are sometimes used, and streamers depends from
| them instead OF from the collar. Rosettes and
| bows are arranged on the ends of these streamers
| Embroidery in silk, in chenille and Jet is used
/ in great profasiOn. Sometimes it is almost i'm
possible to say what is the original material as it
/ Is so concealed by needle work. The expense is
Of course enormous, but the effect is very fine.
| Gallon and narrow silk braid is also put on in
elaborate patterns. Lace ismuch used on the vel
! vet both in bafhs down the seams and in wide
founees around the skirt. Large medallion but
tons, cable cords. and Camels' hair fringe the
only trimmings admissible on the shaggy materials.
Beaver cloth is sometimes, bordered with chin
chilIa and astraGhan; but more usually passe-
menterictof silk and set adarns it. No trimming
can be more beautiful, and doabtif any was ever
so troublesome. The beads fall of with the slight
est provocation and the fringe tanges and catches
| on every stray projection. 1t makes garment
/ heavy and cumbersome, and the constant rafting
and ingling that inevitably attends it is enough to
craze nervous woman; however, it is stylish and
pretty, and suppose it should be endured without
i a mprnnr.
Many elegant shawls were exhibited yesterday.
i One style, with a long name which have forgot
ten, was thick velvet, but fell into soft and
| graceful folds like Canton Grape. This was mas
| siyely embroidered with Jet, and had fringe a
| half yard in width. The paisIeys and French
| cashneres were particularly handsome some of
| them had rich warm centres of crimson and maz.
| Zarine blue, with wide borders, while others were
Wortied up all over in pameaf pattern Very ex--
pensiVe India shawls we're shown, but do not ad-
mir9 them it may be convicting myself Of bad
taste to say so, but confess have never been
able to appreciate their beauty asgmany do.
L found novelty in turs-not in the STYLE for
the small muffs and pointed collars of last year
are still worn-but in the fur ITSELF 1t is the sill
ver mink--is of whitish gray and glistens like
the oXydized silver much used for buttons.
The animal from whose fur it is made is found on
Hu5son's bay; but it is said to be Of m almost
distinct race, and is only found at rare intervals
There is nothing new in the furs Familiarity
kaown. The Astrachan lamb-skn is extensively
worn in place of regular fur, and isa great con-
Fenience to ladies whose purses will not permit a.
large expenditure for handsome furs, and vet
whose good taste revolts at wearing poor arti-s
Gle, for, unfortunately, nothing looks shabbyso
soon as cheap furs.
had almost forgotten a new andtpretty style
of muf, intended originally for skaters, but which
has been adopted for the promenade on account
OF Its great convenience. A long cord is fastened
to it at each end leg, which is hung round the.
neck, which is sensible idea, as ladies' in shop
ping often lay them down and forget and lose
Of it, which, from its concealed position, defes
the picEp0ckets.
torfuli dress there are very beautiful sets of,
white tNr, or down rather, made from the feathers
OF the grebe. a Swiss bird. This is more glossy
and smooth thaa the finest ermine and mnch more
expensive.