The south-western. [volume] (Shreveport, La.) 1852-1870, 1866-01-10

Eanern nalIars.


waEEz 4aq aoN faz9 Aaz aapS
While the newspaper press aR the larger el4ss &ss
dealing 40 extensively p the HeE greer 9 taELt&1
sveh the carnival 9E blood. fae eerEivg ot crime
and e carnival Of this and ef that il a ztta strange
that moi pE them Qas taqnEHE 1t Wst11 NastG 90
tone upon tae carnival 1 paper lataEs, EAsa4 re
country 5us aow finds tsett laaEaleapy inFotFea5
a fui and complete record % ifs reign ana ranges
fr0E1 il9 commencement III 1854 do#L tq .1e l5= @
ut1p ef lisn linen its psr.snable aHa pt-geaH
rlFs which sooner 9F atsr must c3#Ae @9a4 25 -.
sole &ha bsteGgn whose task Il zaa Ee Eo a+s-S-
reotype the and customs of tile American
people of to-day. /" The Paper Collar: history or
its Rise its Reign and its Downfall, would constitute,
to the reader of 1865 the least interesting chapter
in the chronicles of our times.
The phper collar is worn by eTeryoody-eyery
body except few Of The school boy and the sex
agenaton, the preacher, the doctor and the lawyer
giant leisure the glass Of fashion and the model Of
form i'm short, Tom, Dick and Harry, whether he
sFiaunt rags or futter in brocade,"
all patroni5e this cheap inevitable conFeneney Even
children cry for them" ~.
But let Us see If they are cheap. The almanac and
all other e Informed authorities tell US there are 500
days in the year Fifty cents box, containing ten, OF
five apiece is the retail price OF paper collars Ia
this market which your yearly supply, II you throw
yourself into fresh every day, VIII cost you TAO
sum of SIS 25 This seems liberal amount to squau-
der upon small article of dress; but let us com
pare with the cost Of years supply made of linen
If you will lock sharp after the loss and steaage, you
may contrive to make dozen serve you the tWeiFe
months Ihey VIII cost you - anywhere on les@' $50
street The modern laundress who does up your wash
ing charges you much for strip Of nen colaf az
inch wide she does your sweetheart for hat beaau
fully embroidered regau1agee, electric gllnPSe Oh
which has so often challenged your admiration AZ
dollar and half Dozen you must pay to the order OF
your washerwoman, if you would have an immacuiatE
collar for every dag the year. the OF $40 per az
nun. To this sum add the original cost OF your COZ
lars, aud you have grand total OF SOL winch Is Ae41S
double the cost Of the paper substitute l.,
Certainly, the paper collar Is cheap enough, and o.
moonshine, in the " dim religious hight, fufhsleo
BY the common run Of gas-worEs, looks pretty we'll
/ Now let where aud how they are made. toS-
information this subject We draw upon the Troy y.
! Y, Daily Times.
The first collars made by machinery in this country.
and composed any part Of paper were those OF Wal
ter Hunt in 854 two thicknesses of paper covering
thickness of eambric The collar was patented ia
1884, and the machinery subsequently The co!laf P4.
tent was sold to Mr. Lockwood, Of PhladelPhla IL
not till about 1853 that the business began 20 as
sumo Importance, but from that time increased rap
idly, New and improved machines were soon alteE
brought out, and paper manufacturers turned 1Gsi
skill TO the production OF an article OF paper o. sun
cien strength and thickness TO render cheap ye'
valuable substitute for linen material tor collars
The excellency Of this paper Manufacture has been IN
creased until it now approaches perfection. ionG
and strong fibre has been introduced which gives sne
paper wonderful consistency and strength IN one ol
the many mills exclusively devoted to coNar paper
manufacture they produce an aFticle OF sue. se3
that collar made from will support fourteen pound
has been added for the better qualities, so that tAa
stock is given ustre well as strength, surprising
the finish Of the laundry. There IS hardly southern
merchant going to New York, who does not before 10
returns provide himself with stock sufficient Tor
year or more The home demand is now SO large that
it is impossible to ILL., with anything ike promPthess
the orders from the south There is not yet sucent
amount of machinery to be obtained to enable manu-
factuTers to meet this new demand.
From the best information We can obtain, the several
paper collar manufactures already IN operation PRO
duce 900 900 to collars per day. of which tho
five establishments of Troy produce 45oe90, or anou1
oneteenth of the entire amount and there are lnteo
or four more establishments to be put IN operation
there as soon as the machinery can be had Ihe prln-
cinaI manufactures outside of Troy in New ORR
/ iroffotI PbilndpluhIa and chicago.
SnguaIy enough, this already large and rapidly IN
ereasing business aas had no Peroeptlble eneet9 on
the linen collar manufacture The pfoductoh q u"
latter in Troy was larger than it has been during
the last three months. It is safe 10 say that the TWEEN
ty-fye or thirty establishments engaged IN y nav IN ~
operation some three thousand sewing machmes aho
J keep in employment five thousand female and
male operatives. Some Of these establishments are
! adding the manufacture of the paper collar.
The paper used in the collar manufacture IS, as We
have stated made especially for the purpose, and OF
the verv best qualities is received in flat packages
in sheets from b 27 to IS by 27 inches. This varia-
ton admits Of all the different lengths of collar and
necessitates but the slightest waste in cutting The
cost Of the paper quantity is from forty to tortyhye
cents per pound The enaTnelng Is done at New YORK
and Albany at the cost Of about six cents per sheet
complete of machinery, capable Of turning out
20cQ0 day, costs ST 600. The best machine Is sala 10
t be that invented by TolhuTst.
By the Tolhurst operatlon the paper is placed in
about sixty thicknesses in powerful press cutter Civ
ing that number Of cut collars a every descent; the
collar then goes TO the punching machine where tho
button holes cut then 70 the embosser where teF
are given the imitation Of stitching IN linen coiTa,
and the size number marked then TO the toluer Wgie
forms the curved line impression preparatory to lay
ing the fold, whieh is done by comparatively small
+ machine that coils them ready tor boxing. BJ the
new arrangement Of Tolhurst one boy and four girls
are a that are required the set Of machines PFodu~
! cling 20 coo collars per day
Ii consequence OF the perfection Of the machine ar
= rangement but oInpaTatveIy small operative force
II is required and that is composed mostly OF smart
q young girls Tn all the Troy establishments there are
+ probably not two hundred persons engaged.
' So much for paper collars They are very ezten,
s;rely worn butt always done in defiance Of good
taste