The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1866-03-29
VERNAL OPENINGS OF OUR
LEADING MODISTES.
Newest, Prettiest, and Best Things
in Bonnets, Hats, Dresses,
Cloaks. Jackets, Etc.
THE PHILADELPHIA LADY'S
VADE-MECUM.
Etc.s Eto.s Etc.. Eto.. ETC.

Spring, of all others, is the season in which
fashion is most interesting. We have a bright
sun to display the varied tints we have fine
weather for our bellies to display themselves.
All over the world which fashion civilzes
spring is the time when new ideas seem to
germnate in the minds OF fashions approved
and authorized ministers.
Religion first instituted this spring court of
fashion, and in Paris consecrated Passion Week
10 the fats Of the important court that directs
the feminine world.
Longchamps, under the improvements of the
great architectural Emperor, has vanished, the
long alice has become interminably magnificent
with palaces, groves, and fountains; but the
name has not passed away, and the modes de
lLOngchanlps that is, those first revealed in Pas.
ion Week, are the modes that rule Paris.
E5But these fashions, though revealed only at
this time, are, of course, composed and manu-
factured many months before, so that, thanks to
our enterprise, gold, and steamships they arrive
here at the very same period in which they are
o displayed in Paris. The opening days in Phla-
delphia are the same as the opening days in
Paris, and the very sane style of hats. bonnets,
silks, dress goods and all that go to make the
wondrous creation of ''grande dame," are
gazed at simultaneously by the flashing eyes of
- our own bellies and the dark orbs of the elegant
Parisiennes.
All sorts of grotesque absurdities have been
the fashion, and in their day have been re-
corded, worn, admired. This year is a special
one for simplicity, and good taste appears to
have presided over the composition of all head
gear, the designs of all dress patterns, and the
grace of the trimmings. There is freshness
and simplicity about everything that appears
as if the becoming and the graceful had been
studied; there is no aiming at magni6cence; it
would seem as though the race of shoddy had
passed away.
10 begin with the first desideratum of a lady,
s'a love of bonnetn There are this year seve-
raj styles:-the Gipsy, the japanese, the Marie
tuart. Miss 0'Brian, of Walnut street, has
ONE pretty chip hats, that would make an
ugly face look pretty. The charming lace, So
berly employed on it, looks heavy, has taken the
place of Brussels lace, and is applied with great
effect with colored ribbons under it.
Messrs Wood & Cary offer an immense choice
of hats and bonnets. Here the Empire shape,
with its several subdivisions, appears to reign.
Many of these bonnets have no crowns, allowing
the hair to be seen, the ribbons only of the bon
nets encircling 1t.
II e good taste of this house is well known
the assortment of colors admirable. Many steel
and silver ornaments enhance the bonnets of the
day, ,;but they do not overpower the lightness
and airiness of the elegantly made structures OF
illusion, straw and silk.
Mrs. King, in Chestnut street, above Twelfth,
has this year excelled herself. Her bonnets
and hats are renowned for their style, because
Mrs. Kings Partisan modes come from the first
sources in Paris, and her taste modifes the
Parisian modes TO our climate and our require.
ments. There the bt bj bonnet is in perfection.
Imagine small graceful frame for the face,
shading, yet displaying it's outlines, with a
bouquet just coquettishly on one side-a
thing TO dream about. We noticed one in pink
silk trimmed with jonquils, the crown composed
of transversal bands of ribbon and flowers,
leaving the hair to complete it-that was espe.
cialIy original. A decided novelty was that the
strings were held, not by bow, but by bou-
quet OF the same flowers that were on the
bonnet. 90
Here, too, are the japanese hats, to which
we should give the preference, from their sim.
plicity. We saw several in white chip, trimmed
with mere wreath of flowers, varying only in
color. For instance they had wreath of violets;
another of forgetme-nots; and another was
Wreathed with ivy.
Some of the straws have tiny silver thread
in them, which Is not gaudy, but gives fash IN
d the sun that is all brightness. One rich Ja-
panese, trimmed with straw cord, and tassel to
match, and the addition of French blue flowers,
was charming style.
Marie Stuart hat for evening wear, white
satin, with a plume is extremely elegant. From
Paris, direct, we saw black tulle bonnet Fan.
chon-Empire, the only ornament being spray OF
green grass that was the extreme of severe good
taste. The long veil was studded with bright
green and fastened with oxydized cameos A
fair fresh face beneath such capote would be
irresistible
On all bonnets heavy canoes, velvet, and steel
ornaments OF all kinds will be worn.
Fashion has gone back TO the Josephine En-
pire days buthas added grace and elegance to it.
Also, at Mrs. Kings we noticed a chip hat sim
ply trimmed with blue velvet; another with
black and pink, having the crown surrounded