The New York herald., 1866-08-05
THE FAs HONS.
NM PARIS lvrcIlp FASHIONS CORRESPONDENCE.

ture, Shape and AdvnntRgcs-Street and
Observation-Disclosures under Difficulties
Corsage DOria-Toilet Industry-Cut md
Trimmings Of vandylkes-Head Dresses
BOIerOs, Basques, FOulard. Costumes, Belts
and Lana Hoods, Riding and Driving
Dresses. with the COI0rs for the Rond, &c.
PARIS July 20, 1883.
new crnone has at last appeared that is destined TO
ouiye what remains OF this year, and which. It Is
hoped, will thread Its way trumphantly through the
whole OF the next winter
am convinced It will be relief TO most of your read.
to know that this important question is settled for
at least fcw months The political state Of Europe will
in for larger share Of their
sympathes, and the feuds between Austria and
Prussia will henceforth be discussed by ladies'
with the afabe endurance OF oil those who, having
weight less their minds afford leisurcly
May this cnvabc disposition last till the contending
Powers have had their spite out and all have
for share of powder and shot of knit
ting needle guns. Should this be thought unchari.
table wsh seeming to imply sense OF rejoicing in
the confusion Of the wicked, let be christianity
disposed and only hope that the new petticoat will last
till the Italians call venetia their own till Austria
and Prussia stand like sisters side by sde united In one
anectonae embrace. think this is sufficiently hui
name and generous feeling and that II the fashion
lasts till those things to pass robes empire and
our robes fo,rreau will all be before have
TO adopt another crnolne.
Although the one has been approved and adopted
high quarters the fact Of its existence Is not publicly
known, and many Parisan ladies' will for weeks
to come continue firing their fingers and s-ains
Old cage shapes decreasing here and letting ont
there according to the necessities Of Their ovcrskrs
Meanwhile the only crnoline suitable TO our present
style Of dress is bring manufactured by hundreds at no
great distance from of the rcquened parts of
~ t,ntd a
IT. is called cacherasne to purpose, and. as its
name indicates is hidden impercepble in front and
on both sidos while long gored train ending with
frlll affecting tho shape of what gentlemen call
sthe tails" Of their dresscoats supports and main
tains the trains of robes behind, where, with
the help OF string 1t raises ones skirts above muddy
pavements. II also prevents them from falling in or
twisting round cavaliers legs when they kindly vol
unteer to offer ladies trying occasions. say
when they do volunteer advsedly; for has been lately
repeated what is called sgood company that Ia s
France has lost its chvarc spirit Of polite attention TO
ladies. I must say something to exonerate all this
jennsc from such accusation and DO moreover, be-
eve that the fault is not entirely their side have
observed that gentlcmens manners depend very much
on those OF the ladies with whom they associate. II Is
evident that the latter have right expect attentions
any conveniences the disposal Of gentlemen, such
on arms and hearts, II they who ought be models Of
feminine modcsty will indulge in open benoiting
In jeune France has not lost s provcrbal
old spirit, for revives when In its
natural element but Ia ,eune France has taken few
hard Of la.e 1t has been frowued at for small
offences, has been laughed at for its faith In the fair
SEX has been rudey pushed by sarcases twittered
at behind FANS stared at through firmly evcled opera
glasses loudly sccosed and nodded at in public streets
which operations have not been undergone without
| ,r md In
the wonder IT, after this pride and pique should havo
cstranged young men from the bellies of drawing
roomss When ladies sailing down the fashionable
streets leaving their husbands just enough for
foot the curbsone while the other is left to ex
plore the gutter Il s probable that la ene France will
look sorry when they knock down ones
of instead Of contenting themselves with 'pardon.
madame" which in their heart OF hearts they would
rather do without
II well bred sisters and daughters dispose OF their
evenings without making effort TO entertain their
fathers brothers at homc IL likely these honorable
supports Of society will carry tho strength OF their ad
mation and muscle Therese shrine where they will
vocerate braves and diminish their energies in loud
clapping without even giving any impetus thereby 20
tho glove trade for people not obliged TO wear KID at
the cafe concerts aud Thorese Is not particular she y
HWillow," the strains Of which, with those OF the
femme barbs considered peculiarly cxhlsratng py
the gamns de Paris VINO sing or whistle these
BILE by way Of dverting their attention from
the serious dutcs Of their profession which consists in
The pretty little low bodies called corsages daria
now much worn They are made Of alternate stripes
ribbon and pufcd muslin, or blsck velvet and cluny
stripes OF insertion, and trimmed on the shoulders
with loops Of ribbon Then there s the corsle bodice
and braces Of black velvet Ia aise worn over high
| many Of our Partisan eegancs make them up them
selves II isn no more degrading 10 the opinion OF the
to zee dy ply needle @ az % :"
with wool and silk. The little inishings on OF
adys toilet in times such as thess, when so much trim
ming required should be the productions OF her own
industry
The spatics,n for instance, which are worn rows
around skirts and look pretty either laid down nat OF
for looping at nterves could be cut out Of piece
OF blue fawn or violet taeta lined with muslin, ether
braided edged with lace beaded around and given to
needle women, with instructions how to place them
plain linas mohalr or alpaca ady viii generally make
these ornaments more carefully than seamstress and
thus have her toilets elegantly trimmed at little cost
| vandykes which are fashionable, are cut out on
strips Of silk, worked over with porcelain beads In the
sashes and ends, or placed around srmholes with nc
very great amount OF trouble yard o. apple green OF
on me nsuest g soG
10 what would otherwise be very common place dress
have seen pretty headdressss made up much after
same principle Three yards Of bright velvet
are cut ia ave loops and long ends. Tho loops are
placed the front Of the head and In the centre OF this
cluster sprys Of lilies Of the valley which hang over the
chgnon behind and among the wavy bandeaux curls
few branches Of the sewn the velvet ends
and fan over the shoudcrs Many ladies' mako up cur
place them al Intervals ON ends OF black rod or blue vel
/ pAH9em6ntofle
muslins round basquss, on the shoulders, &c
The Grecan vcstc or boero Is made without sleeves
every description Of material but with short sleeves u
| cut about the back OF these boleros where merinc
| Ia employed; the Two side pieces behind ar,
abolished and The back cut straight which admits o
long armholes instead OF their being round. They arr
| always trimmed with white gupurc edeing very
lovely and novel toilet In the following which has Just
arrived from LYONS for one OF our theatrical celebrities
who has the privilege Of setting the fashions The
material IL silk muslin, striped solferno and white
l Ronn IN ho A
into texture n Arm taeta ribbon, and on this pat
| tern OF brocsded green leaves little higher up,
second band OF the same though narrower This drcss
made with two bodies one low tunc and body IN one
| the oher high, worn with lacs collar and Guns pep
uu Jacket soferino parasol and white tulie amoale
bordered round with crystal icclcs under wreath 0
| frosted leaves
Pointed basques behind 10 ght-nsting casaques are
| The atter are cither trimmed with silk fringe or IA
folds cu, on the cross called 'bals Fouiard Is nov
paironized, /. prophesed u would be- BY ths nos