New Orleans daily crescent., 1866-09-29
IATUADAY MORNING, sEPTEsfBER IS 1855.
s1pea.ng 80 a. New Yorls.
iFrorn the PhilaaeInliia I,rnss i


From The Philadelphia Preset
M, Ii .,.sa.si EHw YoBK Sept III 1856
gag IN the calender Of fashiaa All the r1illtne1
and modistes have come back from 4r rI1n owe
she water and packing boxes are openea ali
BOXES etnptied. Busy fingers of director and an
nrenlees nave flown all through this warm Ser
ternber, tireless sewing machines have set thei
mlles OF stitching ready clerks have catalogue
leagues q org goods, and on this eventful Thurs
1ay are exhibited the grand results. For ii i
opeAlng sdaY;;H end IRON ten o'clock in tn
morning I'LL fading daylight covers all the dazzln
colors with q screen pf ugly Black, do carriage
srowd each other at well known DOORS and fh
tlge q walking tashion-huntefs remains al food
yesterday, alas warm, drizzliilg iN.temperet
Taln mockedt the hopes OF sales-women and de6let
the pretty ruffes OF the lockers and buyers
Meverthelesss an nndainted host set forth. anE
1s Isayeied from the Dan Of Madison square to ths
S9tasheba of Canal street, spying out the fulnes.
OF the land the only nakedness being found il
Cuies. =
BoNNErs.
4 The top and round Of feminine sovereignty 4
nas Year bY year grown smaller and more fan
9astical until, in comparison with the bonnatex-
nlnlted yesterday, the c0quettis Fanch0n OF last
summer is very extingnisher. The fayorite
shade is green rich, soft green, like meadow
moses. The shapes are manifold. That most in
foror looks little hike bakers paper-cap Of the
smallest possible dimensions, and most amazing
capacity as frame. work for trimming. This il
crownlcss and br1lnless. and the floating strings
are banners that proclaim its Intention to be bon.
net which otherwise could not be Witnessed
Nothing can be more absurd than these fairies
head-uresses now that cold weather Is coming on;
but they are extremely pretty, and almost uni
yersaIly becoming. Another shape has a stiff bias
curtain, large crown, and a fiaring front with
hiaTy Stuart peak above the forehead Itis ex-
sremely stia and ugly, but viii be worn by ladies
who do not like that entirely lavish display of the
face and neck which the exacting Lamballe i'm
plies.
The Cataonian. a very picturesque and iaunty
bonnet, i a parallelogfam bent down little oyer
The forehead, as if you were to take the cover Of
your spelling book. aud make it an atom convex
on the upper surface These have fringe of let
encireng them; no face trimming, SIS the briri il
too cluse, and are tied with q very rich ribhon i
This st fringe IS the most popular garnitare worn
and some OF il is very elegant, These bonnets the
largest ef which could be successfully concealed
under your coffee SANGER at breakfast, are exorbi
tant in price. 0ne tiny fabrication Of gray velvet
which consisted entirely of a dirninutfve feather
and costly plush strings, was fifty dollars II Is
possible that it might have cost the nilliner seven
do1aFs and fifty cents. 1t is understood that most
of these faneifnl and creative shyIocks own lots
on the Central Park and understand the zoology
of Wall street. Flowers are NOT much worn on
the outside Of bonnets this fall: feathers thread
4ace, and an imitation lace wrought with small jet
beads, very expensive, and very taWdry being
fhe most fashionable trimmings
3 Some maryesousy perfect clusters of velvet
naowers are seen, however; golden coreopeis
ana WFeAtAS or ffleVi
Veineds and glowing leaves. Myrtle and WV
Wreashs 10 carved Jet, are also worn amazing in
Ineness Of workmanship, and extremely costly 4
81nongn the Httingness of preserving the delicate |
and significant myrtle III the somhre hardness Of 4
get may well be questioned. When inside trim |
miag is worn at ali, itis usually narrow band of
IIeh-c oored velvet, showing bright and fresh |
through the fringe Of jet depending from the edge
of the bonnet
Among these, however, the basuufne, with Ne (
multiplied variations, still hold honorable place.
though tiny black cashmere sacunes dotted ali i
over Hlth jet pendants, arc the newest and most
eagerly sought Whim of the season. Velvet holds
ITS regal place; but will be cut in sacuueas and
circulars, and Spanish 1nantiilas rather than The
1oTmai and many scanned basquine. Eur trim
nlngs, both on eloaks and dresses, will he In hiRh
favor, and already yards upon yards Of 1t are
Sound In the shops These are marrow, seldom
more than ninch IN width, and number Of rows
will be worm. bnt these can never have the ele-
gance Of one broad, rich band Very fine shaWls
"a the plaids oi the clans are to be found and viii
pc worn in demi.toilette. Some Of them are exs
1rafleiy beauttnl in color and texture, and will
commend themselves to people who consider the
ngliness Of plaids to be balanced BY their
Fiehness OF hue and fabric, \
WRAPS. p
For outside garments The full and absolute de. n
cree Of fashion has hardly been pronounced or
1ather, 40 eharmingiy goodnatured and gracious
s she, just now, that she smiles equally on last p
years close hasauins and this years flowing man
10, for that graceful scarf, in whose slight drar. &
srg Sir joshua used to paint onr fair English
great. at.grandmothers (if We had anyl tloats 10 re-
leWed youth. It il worn In thick black silk, in
ace, in velvet richly embroidered, in the peren- y
aially perfect camel's hair and in black cash. ii
nere, covered With broidery Of small jet beads.
Hill the gray DAYS Of November uIlkindlr ttYealy
ID and send little prophetic shivers down our 1,
laeks, this will be the most graceful garment ~
7orn. The black cashmere shawis, with their
leh emb mbroidery, lilies and roses and tangled
caves and tendrils, and their broad fonnees IL or
IMPURE or chantilly even Of magnificent thread af
ave a dover right in the wardrobes Of duch. u
sses. Indeed, all shsEls PROMISE to be more in "
emara than made garments, whose fixed form
ondemns them 70 obscurity 80 soon as swift
oosed fashion passes them With new shapes in u
or eager hands. ca
DRESS eooDs. sII
For a few weeks very fne and beautiful foul. II
rds will be worn. The prettiest have white or q
aulral gr8nnd with branches of gay flowers or
rilliant autumn leaves flung down upon them
be richest silks have irregular figures running " "
rough theIn-a plnnle, d scroll, snoke-wreath ey
} arrowhead. Watered siSs are the most ele, 4
mt of the season, Many Of these have narrow y
ltin stripes, and look like legaeies Of past gene
tions. Prices are still high, but not higher than n
st season. Ottoman ei0ths3 reps and superb pG
slored p0plins have appeared in hues which th
e bright Goals in the crate will ahash them, theyI
IL seem Just the thing for A warm winter toilet !,
saopEss
For the street tis ic0ped-np dresses have fallen3
sder the ban, III sheir place short skirt Il Or
SIDE, at least nix inchAs above the hem Of the !.
tticoat and bound in squares at the bottom The X
tticoat of theaagae spaferial III oE bright color III
made with q full crpssWise rnf5e, headed with VI
Ws of velvet ornamental braid High walk. 70 70
! boots are Wozn. of course. NJ
Health and cleanliness took up She fashion Of Gs
ort skirts for the street assoon as innovation set r.
ana have guarded ii on right hand and on left Pa
OF ances Nevertheless InodestY did complain y; 4.
zen the HnmanRgeable loop made display more Js Js
eraI than the ballet, aid without the excuse Of WI
Vi absurd art. A skeleton at once strong and
able was far to seek, The Duplex elliptic /
last supplied the need. They are frihe more mo
pensiye than many other hoops in the begin- an
g bnt one Yot Of, now tenderly enshrined It'd sig
STloYy una carefully laid to rest in d dark closet
K two successive Journeys in two snecessigei
amers all over the gg5at West enduring with
ek infegibiiity the attacks Of railroad cars on.
normal symmatTgs and turning totown dared
narrow doorsand protruding handles, stops and
axis Of street cars aud omnibusses, for the two
tiers as well, without ouesbreak ia its circle of
apleteness. II was then suffered to retire on ai 9
sion, because its shape was little sold-fasll- o
sd bHtit still does duty on rainy days, and il cor
y0ung in its feeling ever Have not reason ls9y @
peak weitof the#a Duplex Elliptic s8 Its light. Il
j; as we'll as its strength, is q cardinal virtue,
- H. ~