The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1866-12-12
READING FOR THE LADIES.
The Winter Fashions.

are not sufficient, no matter of what
richness these may be. Suits are the
prevailing style for walking and church
use. The basquine which, despite the
attempts made to depose it, still reigns,
Is especially available for prese Mt pur-
poses. Poplin and silk, and all COM
paratively light materials, make up
much better in the basquine than in
the sack shape. Suits of blue or brown
Irish PoPlin, with'deep basquine, trim
med heavily with velvet and with velvet
bonnet to match, are among the pretti-
est toilettes of the season, Velvet
cloaks will be little worn, though they
are always admissible and elegant.
! SACKS OF heavy cloth, especially of As
trakhan and Persianer, are very hand
some for common wear; the new gored
sack IS pretty and becoming, not quite
SO negLge as the loose sack, and admit
tlng OF more elaborate trimming. The
circular is also worn more than for
several years past. All outside gar
ments, whether basquines, sacks or cir
culars, are cut much shorter than last
season, scarcely reaching TO the knees
IN the deepest part. BasQuines are
usually pointed in front, at the back
and at each side, or if cut straight, are
trimmed in points. A new look may
De given to an old cloak, whose form
the wearer does not wish to alter, by
putting on the trimming in deep waves
or points. Cloaks sparkle and clatter
| with jet ornaments, and streets and
carpets glisten with their fragments. II
requires much care to select such as are
really an adornment to dress, among
the multitude of cheap and imperfect
articles, and severe taste would glad
ly dispense with them altogether, being
wearied by their profusion. Still they
do look well when applied with discre-
tlon as 10 quantity and quality. Fur
is fashionable trimming for pOplin or
heavy silk suits. Mink, squirrel or
chinchilla may be used. The tails are
placed at intervals on the skirt, and
headed by bow or rosette, while a
narrow band of fur, edges.the basquine.
Swans down is light and pretty trim
ming for evening dresses.
Fur sets are not now considered in
dispensable to a winter toilet, though
IN this climate they can never be inap-
PropTlate. There is nothing especially
novel IN form, except that the most
stylish colors are now made square in
stead of pointed, in front. A good set
OF Hudson Bay sable or mink, (that is,
mutt and collar, cuffs not being worn,
can be had for about one hundred dol
lars. Sets of Astrakhan will be much
IN vogue for children, and are far pref
tier than the cheap kinds of fur. Err
mine, which was formerly reserved for
| evening and carriage wear, is now used
quite commonly, but ALWAYS demands
a more careful toilet than darker furs,
Bonnets, which have been growing
beautifully less during year or two
past, seem to have reached the mini
| mum of size. Their incongruitv with
the season is evident even to their most
devoted admirers, nor do they look as
well in heavy material as in lace and
| Grape. 1t seems probable that while
they will be retained for full dress,
something larger, affording more pro-
lection 10 the ears and back of the head
will be popular for street wear. How
to accomplish this desired end without
inconveniencingt the waterfall, which is
continually elevating and expand
ing itself, is now the problem. One
shape has IL large round crown, and
narrow brim, with quite a wide,
graceful, we think, rounds grad
ually at the back, covering the
half the waterfall, and is finished by a
fall of lace, reaching to the neck. All
bonnets are longer at the front corners
than in the fall, and sideruches coming
10 the chin are generally worn. Some,
instead OF strings, have short lapels of
the same stuff as the bonnet, trimmed
with lace, and fastened with an orna-
ment. BohnetS bear their full share of
the weight of jet which it is deemed
necessary to carry; some are thickly
sown with small cut beads, many have
fringe across the front and back, or
more elaborate ornRmentatiOn of let
flowers and leaves. The inside does not
admit of much trimming, a band ofvel-
vet or wreath of small flowers is all
that there is room for. Feathers are
worn good deal; the prettiest evening
bonnets we have seen, were composed
entirely of white marabouts.
In dress goods there is no especial
nOVpItV Tho GhT0nen Ckr
duced in cambrics and mnslins last
spring, are in great variety and richness
in worsted fabrics of all qualities. Self
colored silks and poplins are, as they
always ought to be, considered most de-
slrable. There is no pre-eminent color,
though brown is in greater favor than
usual. The largest liberty is allowed
in modes of making and trimming.
The short skirt, with petticoat of the
same material, begins to be seen; but
some hardihOod will be required for its
adoption at present, and it is never
worn indoors. The general fashion
will still be to wear very long train in
the house, and loop it up for walking.
The peqlum is more popular than
ever, and is worn on all occasions,
though it is much more suitable for
worsted than for silk dresses. There
are various ways OF cutting it. It may
be either short and whole, in front or
behind, with deep points at the side,
open to the waist, or may be pointed,
or open only at the front and back. It
is new and striking rather than grace
full, and is not, we think, destined to
long existence. The amount of trim
ming which it requires obviates the ne
cessity of trimming the skirt. Indeed,
though any amount tofdeCOrations is al
lowable, simple binding of bias vel
vet an inch wide is sufficient finish for
any skirt of rich material. Pointed
waists are but little worn; the round
waist, with belt and rosette, being con-
sidered preferable.
mors from Paris of a gradual decline of
crinoline, but it is likely to die hard.
In our leading magazines of fashion
the plates represent skirts as expansive
as ever. But Broadway exhibits them
in real life in highly suppressed and
very becoming condition for the first
time in years. If common sense
might be allowed hearing, it would
certainly advocate the abandonment of
the "tilting hoop" or at least its reser-
walton for house wear, but crinoline OF
moderate breadth has become so iden-
tilted with lady's toilette, and is so
convenient in many respects, that it
Will cost struggle to abandon it. On
the whole, there never was so wide
field for the display of individual taste
as at present, nor is this liberty which
fashion allows necessarily n temptation
to extravaganza. The styles are favor
able for the reconstruction of old gar
ments. A little money and much pa
tience will do wonders still.
-~O~-
BALTIMORE at present is terribly
afflicted with gangs ofthieyps and DicL