Cleveland daily leader. [volume] ([Cleveland, Ohio]) 1865-1873, 1866-04-12
From a Lady Correspondents
HOTEL SANTA YsABEL, I
III 1907 =

guages, and when l alluded to his pro-
nunciation, which is Castilian and not
Cuban, he ran over the gutturals OF half
a dozen tongues with the facility that only
familiarity with many languages can give.
Before his elevation to the bishopric he
Cure at Matanzas and it seemed to
me he spoke half regretfully of the city he
had left.
1874 OF Fe5rRary.-Drove early to the
PuHta nhence we had a fine view Of he
town and the Notifications at the entrance
Of the harbor. This entrance is narrow
but beyond the forts widens into a beau
tiful bay, now filed with vessels. One of
them interested me specially, it was a
French transport ship whose decks
swarmed with men, said to be troops re-
turning from Mexico, an indication, per-
haps, of the %ill-success attending the plant
ing anew of this branch of the Latin fam
lily in America.
The bay of Havana used TO be called
the "Aceldama of Sailors" but at this
season, when "Northers " are frequent it
cannot be otherwise than healthy.
Near the Punta are the ~sea-baths, ba-
sins followed in the solid rock with steps
leading down into them and a wall left to
keep out the sharks which come very near
the shore. The houses are removed, the
water being still too cold; subject of re-
greet, for nothing could be finer than a
swim there with the serf breaking over
one.
Went, as spectator, to a masked ball at
Tacon Theatre. The boxes were filed
with lookers-on, the stage and parterTe
with maskers crowded closely together.
A few of the costumes were handsome,
some very outre, and most of them COM
mon enough. There we're two bands, so
that the music was incessant. No sets
were formed, the dancers revolved in a
sort of waltz, always, it seemed TO me, to
the same tune. Sometimes the partners
separated, turned around two or tree
persons and Joined each other in the mo-
.notonous movement that was too spiritless
to call a dance. The whole thing was in
animate and dreary in the extreme.
February I9th.-Went to the top of the
hill on which is CASTILLO Principe. There
is a chain of them around the town and
each has its fortress, Many of them are
finely built-all are picturesque with their
b~attlements, towers and "loop-hole CRATES,
where it is to be hoped no csptives weep.
The view from the Campo is fine. 1t
takes in the whole of the quaint, old
town with its walls, the stones covered
with cactus as ours are with lichens, its
gate-ways, its flat roofs with semi-circular
tiles, its houses of all possible colors, the
beautiful Bahia gay with flags, the long
rows Of sugar houses in Regla, the forts,
the Psseo with its palms, the hills stretch
ing of like waves as far as you can see,
and the bright glittering waters of the
ocean.
Crossing the Campo Militar 1 saw a
company of artillery going through their
evolutions. There was little variety and
quickness in their movements.
One of the most curious sights in
Havana is the beasts of burden with their
immense loads. We see many fine carri-
age horses, but the creatures driven
about in volantes and cabs for hire and
those that bring articles to market are
miserable in the extreme. They are very
small, and if the breath were to leave
them there is not flesh enough to attract
one of the UNDERGRADUATES that are con-
flying about. Yet upon these
stsrvelings, they put panniers as large as
themselves, filed with vegetables, fruit or
a perfect mountain of the green corn
which is cut for fodder. The animal is
covered with the stalks, only the ex-
tremities of the legs, the tail and the nose
are visible, the latter covered with a
nuzzle of cords that the poor thing may
not taste his own or his neighbor's fragrant
Dad. Sometimes you meet q string of
hem tied head to tail, and oddly enough
hey look with their noses ~protruding
rom the mass of green which nearly fills
he narrow street.
Explored the outskirts of the city, find
poor roads, plenty of dirt and naked
with un~naturally protruding
.bdomens. Saw some white children, an
more disgusting objects than the
blacks.
The Plaza de Armas is a pretty square
with the Indian laurel, a large
rec with thick glossy leaves, in general
appearance not unlike our sugar maple.
n the centre is a statue of Ferdinand II.
The grounds are gay with flowers. On
ne side is the residence of the Captain
General with guards always pacing before
he door, usually in blue and white, but
n Sundays fresh and bright in white with
ed epaulettes and csp-band. Here every
vening, at eight o'clock, is music by one
# the regimental bands. People drive
II walk about listening and chatting for
n hour, when the "Tetrete' is played
nd then turn their steps hotel-ward or to
)ominica's for p~anGLes or horchdtG.
Not far of is the church Of San Fran
isco, with its tall tower; but never comes
hence the sound of bells, for it is used for
custom house. Here in olden time we're
cid the fearful Courts Of the Inquisition-
During the occupation of the island by
be English they worshipped there, and it
as not been re-consecrsted.
Feb. 23.-Under the escort of a padre
listed the fort FL Moro. Crossed the
arbor in a row-bost. The keeper of the
Clubhouse took US into the workshop,
1hich is also a school of mechanics. The
scent to the fort is up a steep, paved way
'ur padre held the umbrella " me, and
Yhenever assistance was needed presented
is hand with the gallant grace of a
of old Spain. From the top of
be lighthouse is a lovely view, not so
7ildfy grand as our mountain scenery,
III very, very beautiful. The Moro and
he Punta were begun in 1889 and fin
;hed in 1897. The Moro is built at the
7ater's edge, upon the solid rock. The
raves sometimes break over the tower,
lhich is a hundred and fifty feet high.
he out-buildings are of wood, that if need
9 they can be destroyed instantly. The
Intelligent keeper explained how they
-ould manage in case of attack, and BY
erv Insignificant gestures gave us to under
and that "when all was lost they would
o into the air rather than surrender.
The fort mounts sixty-nine guns, though
ut few are in position. One battery is
AIMED for Valssco, who fell fighting
when the fort was taken by the
Another is named in honor Of
be Apostles. 1 said 1 hoped there was
o Judas. '0h, no; that is Matthias"
o it seems here that st. Paul is not
Ounted among the twelve. There are
bout the city fourteen forts, mounting
yer six hundred guns, and garrisoned by
wenty thousand troops-all Spaniards,
Ulcers and men. A goedly number, con-