The Cleveland leader. [volume] (Cleveland [Ohio]) 1865-1865, 1865-09-08
THE SEPTEMBER FASHIONS.
The Latest styles of Dresses, gIOaks
and BOnnets--WaterfaIl WANING.

THE SEPTEMBER FASHIONS,
h Latest styles of Dresses. gIoahs
u BOnnets-. Waterfalls Waninp
This is the fashion,msking month of fall.
Our nsodistes are preparing their new
styles and shapes, and many novelties for
the great "opening q" or exhibitions, that
will take place before the beginning of
October. The season is not, however, far
enough advanced to warrant al ex act
judgment in regard te the styles though
some evidence exists concerning the modes
that are to prevail, and some of the i'm
pOrters and inventors of fashions-Dama-
rest among the number-have on exhibit
ton their leading designs for ladies' dresses,
jackets, waists, cloaks, bssques, b%onnets, &c.
There are no important changes in the
shapes of the skirts. The tendency is still
to expansion. The followers of fashion
will not be able this fall to diminish any
thing, Their dresses though very full be-
fore, must, if possible, contain yet more
material. The quality of the goods, too,
must be fully maintained. More trim
ming and more ornament are to be worn.
Men and women who believe, very proper.
" and naturally, that this is the time to
curtsil rather thar to increase expenses,
will find themselves disappointed and
their theories set at nsught by the msgnif-
cent and in some respects gaudy displays
that are preparing. Even gilt and tinsel
are TO be extensively employed to heighten
the effect of rich attire. The reign of I'M
pretentious steel-nevef very complete or
thorough-is entirely gone; and the alb
sence of metallic currency will doubtless
tend TO increase the use of the precious
metals in various forms and kinds of orns-
mentation. A relief to the eye which sees
beauty in plainness will be found, however,
in the Hself colors" that will be preferred
as the basis of The prevailing styles of
sdornment. A curious feature Of tie
fashions this SESSION is the prospective
change in the "waterfsll." This novel in.
vention, which has been 80 much 1idiculed,
and has at the same time been so inexplics-
bly, popular among the ladies, though il
} never found any prominent defenders, is t.
, some extent going out of use-that Is, s
part of the waterfall will be omitted. The
! reason for this change is IS incomprehensl
BILE as the reason Tor the adoption of thu
9 singular mode of dressing and displaying
hair but as nearly as can be sscertaineC
3 the public is indebted to q new style o
g bonnet, which cannot be worn with a gres
8 waterfall, for the reform that is almost Ger
tain to take place. The new bonnet cam
s from Paris.
= 1t is but just to say that the Paris fash
ions do lot rule here to such an extent 3
many persons suppose. The styles com
from France; but are so Americanize
here as to suit the refined taste of our lei
9 gay and mstter-ot fact people. Indeed
l. many of the styles most fashionable here ar
I. from designs of our own, which displs,
much inventive genius and good tastt
The following is an account of pattern de
: signs now on exhibition
"a DRESSES.
e. The Gabriel dress-the skirt gored an
r. without plaits, trimmed with tinsel cor
and velvet seis-is something unique an
10 handsome. Another skirt, which is prett.
.e is trimmed with doublefold, put on in alteI
le nate squares and points Square at the be-
], tom6 Snd between the points the fold
ls formed in diamonds, leaving q vsear
square, with a strip of velvet crossing
j.. perpendiculsrly, the side corners of til
,e diamond finished with tassels. The wal
e, eff this dress is cnt away in front for
g. white vest; the back a jacket. Anotht
ir pattern of waist is a spencer, made Of We
II. vel, of the same material as the dress, to
81 worn over q white waist, with lAppets, An
II. trimmed with black and gilt.
10 Aut q decided novelty is a Jacket Gale
i. the LUCILLE" with a deep lappet on Il
r. back, q smaller n oyerlaying this, q sho
sh lsppet in front, the sleeve closely fitting
the hand and very full at the top, II cap C
in points and extending from the side forr
nj ed to three inches on the front, trimmt
ne with velvet ornamented with gold bes
D. in tasteful pattern, and gold bnttons.
y, SLEEVES.
D. The small sleeves still hold their sws
be but there is a variety of patterns to suit
e, persons many of the styles having q fl
ID effect. Some are closely fitting at the han
lg some are cut in fancy form, not sdhsring
" the straight. But two or three patterns q
SO serve particular mention as new and tasI
4 rtCBR Ldo ks g s. FIJI i ONT OVER IN the sr slSaw a.
Ii mounted by q cap and cuff, trimmed wi
Ii tInsel fringe, each point finished with t.
9. tassels.
le The Rhods sleeve, cut in two pieces,
r. plain under the arm, the upper side OF {
C. sleeve being full st the lower part Al
plain at the upper, and running down in
deep point to within four inches of Il
al hand. 1t is trimmed around with guipu
lace and cord, with double tassels ia
lie above the elbows and at che points. III
sleeve is loose enough TO pass over Il
3D. hand. It may be trimmed with lace to
re worn without undersleeves.
The Coralio sleeve is in one piece, pIa:
ed in at the shoulder and a little above Il
40 elbow, and is held down by three velv
Of stays, fastened with gold buttons, al
Al three corresponding straps at the cuff, al
h fastened with gold buttons.
Be An elegant dress is of Humboldt purp
At MORE antique, pointed waist, with viii
J. point applique lace, white and steel buple
At and crystal buttons mounted with gilt-tl
rs skilt plain and gored.
CLoAKs.
, There is considerable change in the stv
h of cloAks that will be used the coming Be-
b SOC. The most of these garment will
, worn full in the back, though some will I
u plain. Two of the new patterns are DIS
ticulsrly noticeable. Escuriel, a circuls
cut with q yoke at the back; the skirt
three box-plaits, q small round espe cove
n ing the yoke and terminating in q rounde
tab at the back; this, when in made i
corded silk, Is trimmed with silk brait
stitched on in diamonds and guipure lac
) The Euphrssine. Q bssquine with tw
d single and one b~ox-plsit in the back. Tn
skirt is cut separate, the back and sid
: pieces forming a sort of wing over tn
skirt, the front sharply rounded up freI
the side seam making it quite short, th
sleeve cut in two pieces, the back with on
plat at The elbow, the edga and the win
trimmed with heavy cable cord epsuleti
= and on the back with cord and double
tassel. r-