The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1865-01-14

which they can be pleased Linssy 'Knickcrbocker'S
flannel and composite materials such az silk ana woolIea
reps or woollen popln are made into morning dresses
and robes Dc shsmOr a a0 Ys ssns and yeivsts
or ballroom wear Tuie tarlaane, Grape and Cham
berry ganze worn over satin or slik skirts
The fannels in and out OF doors are OF Q
much thicker make than those 10 which accus-
toned and are called moloton. The most fashionable
are of scarlet bright blue with small designs In black
The pattern OF the material is simulated In the thin
mings; for instance should the flannel DC scarlet with
narrow black stripes brads will be employed 70
ornament It. with spots or squares Of black buttons
OF the same form win be used as trimming
Many dresses and cioaks ~ these simple Iao..c die are
which spnkled small steel or jet beads These cords
placed in round the skirt and carried up each
up the middle of the back Morning dresses thss
trimmed are generally made with round PLAIN body,
and small basque behind only The sleeves OF tnsse
bodies are always small, with elbow seam.
With these dresses II IL customary 70 wear ap etcoas
accompanied by cloaks of the same, short half fitting
paetos or camai with or without hood This style q
morning toilette and rarely seen in any dressy mate
RIAL with the exception Of velvet ~s
unwa.ered morsI tafeas antique, and velvet are much
The agu,sa moss are still n fashion ,, and 70
much worn with silk FUR, lace or feather trimming :
more suitable for satin and velvet b Nt sM
Double skirts often seen either for visiting dinner
or ball dress If closed all round they generally
ooped up open the openings are 1t tho back a. wen
at the front In many cases these skirts are made Of
over velvet or two shades Of the Same color Thb
fashion of wearing double skirts u much adopted fog
tho sunc Of color The low Body with coat basques via
be much IL the dress Is OF silk This c0rsage can
be made Of black velvet, handsomely trimmed with jet
The soros Dc bal have not altered much in FORM the
circular being the fayorte shape THIS y made in white
CANT suitable to the seasons Many opera cloaks that
have seen were Of scarlet trimmed win black lace Or
hoods the headress during the transit TO
the carriage pretty, and in many cases
becoming We give the preference TO the Marie stuart
shape with deep curtain falling the shoulders
these are made in lace transparent materials
they are OF course, lined TO match the dress or CLOAK
which they accompany
The elegant coaks for morning wear are made OF
being the mos fashionable form for this material. II
made in white these coaks are excessively disgues
but only suitable for carriage and quite dress wear
Nantes of velvet pile cloth are trimmed with passc
menterie the curly Astrakan other ius and feather
ornaments being reserved for velvet Beaded passemen
very successfully employed with gupure on both
dresses and cloaks ,5 ,4a
Last winter the coaks that trimmed with fur had
one only This the cloaks are edged with
doep oand OF fur reves collar and epaulettes are
also Of fur We have one alihtng paletot OF vio
let velvet trimmed with broad band OF Chinchilla
deep pccrnc the same pointed at the back and front
Small epauettes and cuffs OF the same FUR This aetos
lined with quilted white silk and was intended % %
worn with violet velvet dress, trimmed with band Of
Chnchla carried round the skirt and up the back seam
The bonnet Of violet velvet the crown beng iorme3
Of dropping white feathers The mutt Of violet qutea
SATIN edged with Chnchlla The boots OF violet velve
with band Of fur round the ankle
Bonnets have not altered in form since we last wr0ee
on the subject the curtain having entirely disappeared
Bali coifures elegant than ever. Holly, Win
bic headdress for this season In fact no wreath
flower headdress il considered complete without hese
For elderly ladies the fanchon Of lace over flowers
blonde is the prevailing style.
We great quantity OF quilted velvet and sat both
for bonnets and mus tho latter If nadc only oil PLAIN
fur considered quite negles excepting for young "
dies The rule for young ladies' dress the same thas
vogue-viz what Is dcmi toilette for married ladies y
visiting dress for young girls morcs yeyes ana sans
ess kDomoSss hs y Of dsoss
It being an impossiblity describe all, part
ss mspy e at and them for
the benefit Of readers Bright colors are much moro
this winter than usual will be observed from the
The following dress was Intended for wedding Tho
material white silk; the skirt were three narrow
founces, edged with blonde, and put on in les
toons Above each point a Of mauve silk and
white blonde The body was Of white silk with pearl
buttons the sleeves being tight the wrist With this
was worn small Bolsro Jacket, without sleeves, q
| mauve silk, trimmed with q double white blonde, On
| which a narrow white bugle trimming
We have applegreen silk Dress with tuyauee
ounces in each Of the spaces hanging button o. the
same color was placed; The body was high with haK
silk open up the back and 'front.' edged with thick
black and green twisted cord formed into ornament q
basqucs trimmed round and up the seams, with black
| hanging buttons smaller than those on the skirt
plain six skirt In some cases, with these double
skirts tunics the and body made In piece
e dress Of MORE with broad bin.
and white stripes The bottom Of the skirt was trimmed
with white guipnre eleven inches wide Above this
chenille fringe, with white bugle beads corsago habit q
the same trimmed like the skirt under waist
| coat Of white moire embroidered in blue silk
first skirt Of violet satin, with small lace medallona
Ovor this upper skirt OF violet velvet open back and
front, and edged with double row Of black guipurs.
When double row mentioned the laces
placed edge to edge 30 NJ to have heading each way
dress OF Russian gray silk with violet embroidered
Of ribbon alternately gray and violo about nine inches
OF each color The hounces are placed SO that the vioes
pD me s like
These are fastened behind and hang In long oar shaped
ends.
the waist The skirt scaoped round the bottom anA
edged with thick twisted silk cord The body Is made
with four pontsone In 'front.' another at the back ana
each side the cord carried around the waist and
fastened by sso at each point Across the front are
ment and tasseIs This dress was 70 be worn with .
black velvet pile jacket ornamented with black cordA
The bonnet prepared TO was Of quilted blue
We have several elegant ball dresses, from
which we select the following
White silk skirt bouionnee up TO the knee. These
bouillons OF tue are put on in slanting direction
Above this skirt Is worn tunic Of white tulle OF the
same length as the under skirt, and looped up with
strings OF pearl At the right side IL long spray oi
fern leaves and dewdrops fastened at the waist and do
| scending to support the tunic
The body Of white tuIIe draped with centure Susss
of fern The fan TO be used with this dress
also made In imitation Of fern leaves.
Another, for mourning wear, was OF mauve tulle with
i've very narrow nuted nounces edged alternately with
white and black blonde Three OF these founces
carried up each seam The tunic was OF mauve silk,
open ut each SIDE where II laced by whits
and black blondes, spanglcd with white bugles The
body also OF mauve silk, trimmed with black and
white blonde. The opera cloak TO be with this
| dress OF Yak lace, mauve silk.
Another OF black tulle black satin, with four
bouilonnes Of the same; these fastened small
punches OF gold grapes and leaves These bouilonnee
continued quite up the front breadth. Over this
skirt tunc Of black SATIN open in front and very
long behind, embroidered all round In gold embroidery
Of grapes and leaves The body OF black tue and
satin with ornaments OF gold grapes the shoulder
The wide Wristbands 70 much in favor little while
ago rapidly disappearing and Swing place to those
OF q medium size When the wide ones are used they
are mostly fastened the back sides with rosetts
i az hal 10