Green-Mountain freeman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1844-1884, 1865-09-26
From tde N Y. Evening Post,
The September Fashions.

This is the iashion-makng month Of fall. Our
modistes are preparing their new styles and shapes
any many novelties for the great {" openings" OF
exhibitions, that will take place before the begin
nlng OF October. The season is not, however
lar enough advanced TO warrant an exact ludg-
ment in regard to tho styles, though some evi-
dence exists concerning the modes that are to
prevail and some Of the importers and inventors
OF fashlons--lemorest among the number-bays
on exhibition their leading designs for ladies'
dresses, jackets, waists, cloaks, blsques, bonnets,
go.
There are no important changes in the shapes
OF the skirts. The tendency is still to expansion.
The followers of fashion will not be able this fall
to diminish anything. Their dresses, though very
full before, must, i possible, contain yet more
material The quality Of the goods, too, must
be fully maintained More trimming and more
ornament are to be worn. Men and women who
believe very properly and very naturally, that
tins IS the time to curta rather than to increase
expenses, will hnd themselves disappointed and
their wishea Get at naught by The magnificent and
IN some respects, gaudy displays that are prepar-
! ing Even gilt and tlnsel are to be extensively
employed to heghten the effect of such attire
The reign OF unpretentious steel, never very com.
| plete or thorough, ia entirely gone aud the Gb
senee OF metallic currency will doubtless tend TO
increase the use OF the precious metals in various
forms and kinds Of ognamentation. relief to
the eye which sees beauty in plainness will be
found, however, in the sell coors that will be
| preferred as the basis OF the prevailing styles Of
! adofnment. A curious feature Of the fashions
thls season IS the prospective change IN the wa
terfall." This novel invention, which has been SO
much rldculed, and has at the same time, been
SO ine1plcaby popular among the ladies', though
It never found any prominent defenders, is to
some extent going out Of use-that is part of
the waterfall will be omitted The reason for
this change Is as lnoomprehenslble as the adoption
OF the singular mode OF dressing and displaying
the hairj but as nearly as can be ascerained the
public IS indebted TO the new style OF bonnet,
which cannot be worn with great waterfall, for
the reform that is almost certain to take place
The Eew bonnet came from Paris.
1t Is but just to say that the Paris fashions do
not rule here to such an extent as many persons
suppose The styles come from France but are
so Amercanzsd here as to suit the refined taste
of our less gay and matter ofhct people. Indeed,
many Of the styles most fashionable herear from
designs Of our own, which display much inventive
genius and good taste. The following is an &C.
count of some pattern designs now on exhibition.
DRESSES.
The Gabriel dress-the skirt gored and without
plaits, trimmed with tinsel cord and velvet sets
IS something unique and handsome. Another
SKIRT, which is pretty, is trimmed With double
ioids' put on in alternate sqllres and points
(square at the bottom), and between the points
the fold IS formed IN diamonds, leaving a vacant
square, With strip Of velvet crossing il perpen-
doularlyi the side corners Of the diamond fin
shed with tasses. The waist Of this dress is cut
away IN front for white vest the back Jacket.
Another pattern Of waist is spencer, made of
velvet or Of the same material as the dress, TO
be worn over a white waist with lappets and !
trimmed with black and gilt
But decided novelty is Jacket called the
Lucille" with deep lappet on the back,
smaller one overlaying this, short appet in
front, the sleeve closely fitting a: the hand and
very full at the top, cap cut in points and sx-
tending from th3 side formed to three inches on
the front, trimmed with velvet, ornamented With
gold beads in tasteful patterns, and gold buttons.
SLEEVES.
The small sleeves still hold their sway, but
there is variety Of patterns 10 suit all persons,
many OF the styles having Gne effect Some
are closely fitting at tho hand some are cut in
aney form, not adheiiIg 10 he straight line. But
two or three patterns deserve particular mention,
as new and tasteful.
The Lola sleeve j. Gu, ia one piece, so arranged
as 10 be full over tn elbow, surmounted by cap
and cut, trimmed with las,els each point finished
with TWO taSsels
The Rhodl sleeve. cut in ;wo pieces, is plain
under the arm, the upper side VI, the sleeve being
all at the lower part and running to a deep
point to within four inches Of the hand. 1t is
trimmed around with guipure lace and cord, with
double lasse!s lu't above the elbows and at the
points. This stfy s 'u1se taou.A TO pass over
the hand. Ii may be trimmed with lace, to be
worn without undersleeves.
The Coralio sleeve is 10 one piece, plated in at
the shoulder and little above the elbow, and is
held down by three velvet straps, fastened with
gold buttons, 18th the corresponding sireps Il the
cuf also fastened with gold buttons
An elegant dress is of humboldt purple MORE
antique, with white point applique lace, white and
steel bugle', and crystal buttons mounted with
gt-Ihe skirt plain aud gored,
CIoAKs.
There is considerable change in the style of
cloaks that will be used the coming season The {
most Of these garments will be worn full in the I
oacki taouRl some VIII He pam, Two ui the new /
patterns are particularly motto able. The Escu. q
rial, circular, cut with yoke at the back the e
skirt in three box-plails small round cape GOV. i
ering the yoke, and terminating in rounded tab t
at the back this, when made 10 corded silk, is i
trimmed with silk braid, stitched on in diamonds t
and guipure lace.
The Euphrasine, basquine with two single
and one box-plait in the back. The skirt is Gu,
separate the back and side pieces forming sor,
OF wing over the skirt, the front sharply rounded
up from the side seam, making il quite short, the y
sleeve Gu, in two pieces, the back with one plat y
at The elbow, the edge and the wing trimmed with y
heavy cable cord epauels, and IN the blck with =
cord ard double tasssl.
BONNETs n
A Few French bannets are on exhibition, but n
there is no great change from the last season, ex-
oept they are made lower in the neck, leaving .,
less room for waterfalls, which are waning. A d
very pretty bonn,i is trimmed with daises, and a q,
humming-brd is placed among the down of o.. o.
troh feathers. Gilt ornaments sre much used, N
some Of the designs representing coins SO that il a,
a lady cannot have gold dollars IN her purse, she h
can al least teaf their senhlanea about her. "