The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1865-08-19

but n doubt as to then possession has
arisen, from the tac6 that they were not
named in the bill passed by Congress
approving the separation of the former
new State of West Virginia. More anon
with reference to this matter.
CHATHAM.
SOMETHING ABOUT DRESS.
Modern styles aud Innovntions.--AB-
snrditiss ana Needed Reforms.
a late number of tn London ReVfe,o
discourses thus of modern dress.
There are certain questions OF social
Eifet9T14 Which are, fpam time to time,
brought fore the ublic, discussed
lsAt iF7i,lf os lesss q lity5 and haying
aIl4F' eI nap m Opt atingeniOuS Sug-
|ll sad to drop into
81 oHls tiohsl
epAtlli e-ofl fatlier lot us say OF
European costume (for it contains
but little element of nationality
to be treated in. this manner. Male at
tire in this country is not only unbe-
coming, but frequently incOnVeniently,
and i'll some respects unhealthy to the
wearer. But an EnSlishwomnn's dress
I promises to add to these unfortunate
qualities fourth, which we will leave
the ultra moralists to define NJ. Dupin
has just published IL pamphlet "On the
unbridlcd Luxury of Women" If i'll
country whero fashion holds her
Sternest sway, the extravaganza Of
Paris bellies has attracted the attention
OF the State, let us hope that some pro-
test will follow on this side of the chan
mel; for whatever value we may set on
the tnste of II French milliner, there are
higher considerations than the cut of
u dress, or the shape of bonnet,
which we should be sorry to see our
wives and daughters lose sight of. 1t
IS, however, much more easy to CEN
sure the follies of modern dress than to
propose remedy for them, or even to
assign cause for their existence.
Take, for example, that often and
justly-abUsedi invention--crinoline. I'm
der the names of hoop and fnrthingale,
II was twice in vogue i'll this country
before il was revived for II third time i'll
1887. We have abundant proof that il
was both ridiculcd and seriously con-
dGmned by our ancestors. Yet neither
cd its use. All TINT we know is the
fact that women wore it aS long as it
pleased them, and left it off when it
censed TO do so. But tho old hoop, it
Will be urged, seemed appropriate to
the costume which accompanied it; it
went well with patches, high-heeled
shoes, and powdered hair. Besides, it
was more honest and less complicated
affair than the present one, and not re-
Quiring so much stuff to cover it, there
was less danger to be unprecedented from
fire. But it is probable that these rea-
sons, or any similar reasons, insured
popularity for the hoop or inrthingale
which the crinoline will not command?
Is it not n fact that in spite of many
petty Inconvenience which it occasions
lin spite of its being entirely unSuitn-
bic to the rest of Il lady's toilette-in
spite of tho charges of indelicaCy and
extravaganza which have been so fire.
lpuently brought against it-in spite of
the terrible and untimely deaths which
have ensued from its use, this wretched
Invention still continues in full favor
with women, after eight years trial in
this boasted nineteenth century?
THE HAT.
Take another instance-the modern
gentlcman's hat, of which the beaver
prototype was introduced here about
the time of the French revolution.
Could anything more ugly, more in
cOmmodiOus, more unhealthy, more
generally Objectionable, be devised as n
coVeringfOr the head? Yet, so far from
its use being discontinued, as was
thought probable during the year of
the first Great Exhibition, no part of II
mans dress appears to be further re-
moved from all chance of Improvement
] llIttlA LllASs Np Oue WHO values MS DO
sition in SOciety-no one who cares for
the public recognition of his friends
would venture to wear any substitute
for it in the streets of London, Men 20
on endUringthis evil with aching brOWs
Just as women go on enduring anOtE-i
or sort Of martyrdoIn-simply for the
sake of appearances, and because, as
tciviliZed life is now constituted, singu-
ilnrity of dress would be considered, in
nlne cases out OF ten, II vulgar affecta-
ton.
MALE COSTUME.
Hopeless as reforms seem to be, as far
as hats and hoops are concerned, il is
satisfactory to think that some slight
improvements i'll dress have been made
during the latter part of the present
century. If tho Exhibition of 1851 had
not the effect of discriminating the
'chimney-pOt,n it brought over thou
sands of foreigners who had long eS-
chewed the use OF the razor. English
mon began tosas themselves whether
the prejudice agafh9t boards, which had
existed in the daYsCt the "great un-
lwashed"-our forefathers = should be
allowed to extend to our own time
when every gentleman takes his morn
| ing bath. Was it not absurd that we
should continue day by day, with no
! little pains and Inconvenience, to rasp'
our faces for the purpose of removing
an appendage which nature had given
us for use If not for ornament? The
''beard movement rapidly became pop
ulnr-the newspapers took up the cause,
and said what they could III its favor.
In the course OF II few years, a clean
shaved man became the exception in a
crowd.
Thenccforth the hidcous and uncom-
Portable -mOrdeu-the stand-upI
collars, which had for more than "a
quarter Ofa century prevented us from
freely turning our heads to the right or
left, were banished from young Eng
lands wardrobe. An unpleasant resI-
son had been assigned for the origin of
the modern stock. 1t was whispered
that n late monarch swathed up his
neck in folds of silk or cambric to con-
ceal n natural blemish, and that u po-
lite court followed the roynl example
Be that as it may, no precedent for the
fashion continued to exist save that
which might be found in the dress of n
few old fogies and antiquated club
loungers. Even the thick silk hand
kerchief, which succeeded to the stock