Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1865-11-17
EVENING STAR.
EUROPEAN WINTER FASHIONS.
From the November Paris LIE Folletl

notice are the materials most in vogue poult de
sole embroidered certainly is one. They are
no longer the same patterns as last winter, but
are now embroidered in black and white, imi-
tatng lace, forming q sort OF waved band cros-
of all kinds. This pattern may be seen on blue,
light brown, or violet, as also upon black: but
then all the embroidery is white. These dress
es need no trimming.
Although many ladies have adopted the fash.
ion of plain skirts, 1t must not be supposed that
trimmed skirts are not well worn. Indeed, we
have only to call our readers attention TO
the variety CT very elegant passementerie TO
convince them this is by no means the case. The
novelty of the moment consists in placing,
above the hem, wide band of passementerie,
forming also pattern up each breadth. We
nave seen this IN black and gold, upon violet
satin, and black and silver upon blue MORE.
We must still record that gold and silver are
greatly in favor Other passementerie trim.
mings are made in a series of rings, or palm
leaves interlaced, and put on in distinct orna-
ments upon each breadth.
As to the plain skirts, they are generally
scalIoped round the bottom, and edged with
thick cord, in which Is twisted thread Of gold
or silver. Linsey and knickerbocker are worn
as early morning dress, and these heavy mate
rails are made with a vest and waistcoat, or
chemise russo of embroidered cachemire. The
tight high body not admissble-at least only
with basques and opened in front over waist
coat, perhaps of embroidered percale or plated
muslin.
We have already mentioned double skirts as
fashionable but we must repeat the informa-
ton, as every day brings fresh proof of it's
different to the upper skirt and low BODY il
produces n very stylish effect. What can be
PrettIer than a dress of white silk, with an up
per skirt and small bodice Of blue, green or CO.
rise ] BY many ladies the Princesse or Ga
brlelle make is preferred, as the dress, being
cut in one piece, is considered 10 give more
graceful flow to the train, which is worn as
long or longer than ever.
We have been asked whether there is any,
thing fresh in the make of sleeves. 1t seems
there is no change whatever; still the sleeve a
COude-or small coat sleeve-and certainly for
the cold weather they are very suitable. How.
ever, the small fancy yestes OF different shapes
are likely TO be much in favor. There will
then be plenty of opportunity for making use
OF the very elegant lingerie which is now seen.
We must not omit to mention that Cluny lace
Is much used for trimmings. The fashion of
wearing a band outside tight-fitting casaques
continues to be adopted; but they should never
be worn with any but those of cloth, cachemire
or push. Several centuries suitable for this
are made of Russian leather. with let, pearl or
steel clous and buckles.
A dress of blue taffetas, with silver threads
and large white spots. Round the bottom of
the skirt is placed a band of black taffetas.
edged on each side with a narrow blue and
silver cord. This band is carried up the back
OF the dress in two ro- % the ceinture, which
Is made of the samel rial as the dress On
the shoulders and the pOttom of the sleeves are
ornaments of passementerie and taffetas
A bright green MORE robe. The skirt plain:
the body made with basques, cut in tabs,
trimmed round with a white silk fringe with a
heading of point de Venise gallon. The front
OF the body Is fastened by pearl buttons set in
gold.
A gray foulard dress with double skirt, the
under one having round il three wide inser-
fiOns Of guipure, put on In festoons, or rather
waved. Small corselet of the same material as
the dress. trimmed round with narrower inser-
ton. A bow is placed at the point behind,
from which hang ends, also trimmed to match.
With this a white muslin, muslin and lace
under body is worn.
robe of green poult de sole, the trimming
composed of a narrow green and black fringe,
with beading of beaded passementerie. Five
rows of this are placed in festoons, crossing one
another round the bottom of the skirt, and a
row upon each seam. The body, which is a
aeste de chase open, with reyers in front, and
with long basque behind, is trimmed to
match, and over II Is worn a celnture with q
large buckle.
A robe of eerise taffetos, the skirt cut on the
bias, and without any plat at the vast, with a
trimming of white silk Chantilly. A wreath
of eglantine roses round the skirt a short dis
lance up. This trimming is novelty, and may
be had in different fowers-lilies lilac, yiolets,
roses of all colOrs, &c; and has a very rich APP
pearance. The corsage of this dress is made
low, with wreath TO match round the top.
lessening in width at the shoulders and in front.
Ceinture fastened at the side with an eglantIne
rose, with foliage hanging down over the left
side of the skirt.
An evening dress of pink MORE The body
low and cut square, is trimmed with three
rows of silver point de Fenise. The sleeves
are formed of bouillons of pink tuIle, fringed
with silver. The skirt, long and with tram,
has five bases of pink MORE, fringed with sill
Yer, alternately with insertions of silver point
An evening toilette of pink tulle, spotted
with white and gold chenille. The bottom of
the skirt Is bouillonne. headed by a wreath of
autumn leaves, veined with silver. The body
Is bouillonne in front, and a wreath like that
on the skirt, but of smaller dimensions, forms
three points. The sleeves are short, and have
branches Of foliage hanging from the shoul-
ders.
white muslin dress, suitable for a Young
lady, having the front of the skirt made en-
tabller, with rows of straw -colored ribbon and
ia rim aaI
round with plisse OF muslin, upon which is
placed straw-c0lored ribbon; then a wide
bouillonne, with heading of Valenciennes
and the tablier is trimmed all round with the
same edging. A low gathered body, with a
small band round the top, upon which are
placed three rows OF very narrow straw rib
ION, edged on each side with yalenciennes.
Snort sleeves. formed of a single bouillonne
with band similar to that finishing off the
Tosette.
A robe de chambre a Ia Muscoyite. It's cut
on the bias IN one single piece. The material
employed Is cashmere, blue, violet, a mixture
OF gold and black, &c, and is trimmed round
with black and white terry velvet imitatin1
Astrakan These bands Of velvet form revers,
COLLECTS, ard are placed round the armhole. and
cut IN festoons. Buttons of stars of peari and
cable passementerie form the fastenings of this
comfortable ard distingue robe de chambre. 1t
is lined through with tafstas of a shade suit
ing the cashmere. .#
The chapeau Empire has triumphed over the
chapeau fanchon, and, although by no means
so graceful as the latter, may be said to reign
al the present moment The principa TRIM
mlngs are feathers and lace, but gold is still
worn; thus very pretty and simple bonnet
was made OF tUlle bouillcnne, trimmed with
scarf OF the same, spotted with gold, fastened
at the side in two small bows, in the center of
which was placed a small bird, the long ends
OF the scarf left floating The inside Of this
bonnet was trimmed with black velvet and
gold.
Another at the same house was of blue grape,
trimmed with pattes of blue velvet forming
star, and covered with white blonde. On the
crown was small bird Of golden hue. And
the third OF black velvet, spotted with gold,
and trimmed with gold butterflies.
Anotber very elegant bonnet was made of
green tulle, with an Empire curtain, trimmed
with medaillons Of guipure. At the side a
rosette OF white feathers, surrounded with A
quilting OF velvet edged with guIpure; ban
deau OF green velvet and bouquet of jasmine
black velvet bonnet had q small curtain
embroidered in q gold grecque At the side
coquilles Of black lace and q bouquet Of pea
cocks feathers. The inside trimmed with a
bandeau of velvet embroidered like the cur.
tain. and small bOuCuet To match that on tha