The Burlington weekly hawk-eye. [volume] (Burlington [Iowa]) 1860-1876, 1865-01-28
JUNE, 1889

/ terred some possibility Of paddh hg. The
iigL. dress, 'oo, fer bad walking W. peed
or sitting with comfort, Or stahdiGs With
out ior;naii,y or ENJOY my tie luxury once
so o9tre, Of crossing the legs - WI, and
rec uired above ali dresses The I'd cs ght
!, ist.nH, = Practice whitA, says tie ges.trs.
| DO woman ever honestly Liked Cr4no-
line" therefore prevailed wheneSer u Got a
fair chance, and from Q.ceh i.!i.aD+th's
/ 'srtL.hSaie Tor more than three hundred
year,, Ilalntained a broken rule. is fell
every Low and tnen, under the innneaea Of
cOusiDenta. fashion. but It revived 2PaiI.
| IN l7lo. when the book before Us takes up
| the iaie.
| The book is IN advertisement simply,
| but one OF a costly and unusual kind. MIR.
| +. Philpott, 'jupoE man ufacturer,' which
means, we suppose, IN English, maker Of
| women's pe..icoa.-, thinks he has made
such articles OF unmatched quality and
design, but not content with saying SO. ne
has published volume Of plates, showing
the form Of the hoop from Ills to 1871
They are very good plate, very We'll copied,
illustrated with very atrocions letter press
trash OF the most insutferable kind, and
they really show how little change has Oc-
Cured in female for more than a hundred
and fifty years. The hoop Of l710, which
the Tatier ridiculed. is precisely the hoop
tightly by the dress, and thrown out by
internal machinery more completely from
the hips. A lady in print of that year,
is seen descending into sedan chair,
through the root OF her odd machine, in n
dress which might pass to-day down Re
gent street without any remark frCM the
stree, boys on it's oddly or characte-. The
new hoop which Mr. Philpott says had Just
been Introduced, hoop the whole circum-
ference of which was thrown forward in q
manner at once ungainly and incorrect,
has not indeed been revived. bat i is
scarcely more ugly than the astounding ar
ticle worn by the lower classes of London
a single hoop which expands The dress at
it's hem, and MAKES the wearer lock as if
she nad covered i clothes-basket with I'M
sey -woolsey and we're talking abontiG that.
IN 1880 the ladies had discovered ths.I the
beli-shaped dresses should he long. and
should ex pant n a carve; bu: there Was
no other change, and in I7,J the petticoats,
though .ess ro,und. were as shor. as eyer.
Ten years later ibe bell bad expanded 10
the shape Cf an egg, each side OF the dress
being thrown ont in style which MAJ o~-
casionaly be seen in the streets of I.ondon,
bnt which, fortunately, has as as yet n0
warrant tron fashion. The hoop 1t this
time must either have been constructed Of
iron or timber, as no wLaIeboDe would
have sutticed to throw out the pe:ticCat as
il extended over a colossal fan. 1t would
either have collapsed altogether. ss cheap
crinolines do, or have subsidized into the
circular form TO which all such devices of
necessity tend. In 100, the dress, again
long, was again thrown on: artiICially Oh
each side Of the waist-thrown out SO ex-
cessiyely that 4 man might have sat COM
fortably on each side Of his wifes hoops. as
on y carriage cushion, and women OF fash.
ion all looked as ii they carried milk pals
under their robes. In l7GO the hoop kegan
TO decrease; by 1856 il had reduced Itself
TO what are now called moderate Gtmen-
slons, !. e., about four times the Natural
size, and by 1896 the dress had again be-
come straight, line drawn from the saonl-
ders failing i0ithoau the hem Of the gown,
as it is supposed 20 do in the natur:.- hui
man figure. #e4f
ThenceforwaTd 20 about 1920 the steady
tendency was towards rs little dress az
and no fuckers, till at last, about 1882, the
| fashion subsiOed into the costume which
middle-aged fEen regret and marke--wo-
men still wear, and " hich was not Sc o,;s-
ly changed til the elevation Of The beaU.i-
| fol Sco,o- pan rd 20 the throne Of F-ance,
! The Empress Engeuie, bright. petty,
lucky. and enthusiast in dress. seed
| the helm O! fashion from tie first, a1e, by
the aid 50 her 'miil.ners, has Eep: it ever
| since. regulating The hair, pett.ciats.
| sleeves, and boGices OF al the ladies in
Europe. Her Afaj jesty has, we think only
failed, cree, English women haying de-
cliped, cn mGsst, to adopt the use q The
| walk ing stick, which coEceals and pro-
duces o stOop; bat then 10 pe sure the
silk mercers had no interest in supI~ rtinE
her decree, aud this is the age whhn SOW
ereignty means the promotion OF material
interests.
| If Mr.. Philpott wishes his advertisements
TO succeed be must so to a still greater ex
pense than he has already incurred. COM
ple.e bis collection OF plates by nlustra-
tons from the time Of Anne Boseyp, get his
letter press rewritten by somebody who
I II -
| "whimsical'' with instead OF without an
~ and strike our al! the absurd hoops
| without wearers with which he has degra-
ded clever puff to the leve; or q walking
| Strand placard. r
| GEN. EARLY AND ArPLE- E-BRANDY.-lt
| WAS recently reported and generally be-
| leved in Rebeldom tha, Gen. EaIly's de-
| feats by Sheridan, in the Shenandoah VAL
| ley, were OccasiOne1 by an inordinate nse
| Of apple-brandy, with which the valley
was said to be flowing, and With which
Early soak ed himself. This report was 50
general and serious that the rebels 4 their
Congress assembled proposed to In, es.igate
|lt, and after adopting some r0sOl .tlOns,
concluded to drop the matter, b,i. Early
wanted an inv yeetigation, and wrote letter
to the Confederate Congress- ct which
We find the following abstract 10 the Rich
Mond Enquirer Of the .ft:h:
4 IN LIE ItLteT IeneTdt T.aTty Sbvs -n0L d
j. is true that the reverses IL the VII ..ey re-
suited from the too freGueE: use o. apple
brandy, or other Intoxicating d: Ss, by
| the commanding oflicef, no graver subject
Ic0uld engage the attention 81 Congress,
! and he therefore asked ihat he sui ect he
referred 10 q special committee. TIE Cen
eral utterly denies the charge ri drunken
ness, and asserts that !. is without he shGd-
ow of foundation He Furthermore chal-
ienges the production Of any rcspec able
| man Of any grade or position, who will
say that lie ever saw him General f. ,.n-
der the influence Of intoxication il the
camp, on the march, or IN battle" Ee also
states that since he re-crOssed the Potomac.
his troops have fought five battles, and mad
| o grea. number of skirM.shes. Il the irst
two ofthese battles, tie enemy was de-