, 1865-03-28
THE FASHIONS.
OPENING DAY IN the ME-
1RQPQLlS.
Spring and Summer sty tyles..The New
est Thing in Bonnets, Dress and
Fancy Goods-Efects OF the
Gold Panic or P1ices--A
Chapter Of Pleasant
Gossip for Ladies. j.


past few seasons on the bonnet question
dc ne should silence such skepttctsn forever.
During that time the feminine world has Vi
brated between the two extremes Of bonnets
whose huge dimensions and towering a1tt-
tude suggested race Of female giants and
three-coinered bits Of silk, or lace, with
tloating ends Of ribbon, suited apparently to
the moonlight frolics Of Titan1a and her fairy
train rather than the practical uses of sp1ef
sensible women. These latter styles have
been introduced within the past few months,
and the spring exposition has only confirmed
the TACT Of their universal acceptance.
When capr1clous FrenchWoman ordered
ler milliner, in defiance Of precedent, to
make her q bonnet without crown, or cur
tain, to accommodate the dropping mass Of
her beautiful hair, she could hardly have
foreseen that within six months she would
have created revolution in bonnet-dom, yet
such Is the fhct. Instead Of the bonnets al
eIown, and curtain dropping from the back
Of tie head, Of 8 few years ago instead Of
the millinery Mont BEancs OF the past two
Or three seasons, We have dainty little ftac-
tion placed On the top Of the head, and bare
ly aflUrding tie requisite facilities for sus-
tanning even the moiety Of falling lace and
clustering decorations which so delicate an
atom requires
AZ for its use, what is The use Of raising the
question so long as the women are all en-
chanted with 1t, aud declare 1t to be conYe-
nirnt as well as becominge
One advantage which 1t possesses is M
doubtediy, Its youthlulucss. The large bon
nets made girls LOOK like old wom=n the
old Indies look Ike girls, until one sees the
lace which they enshrine. So coguettish
nre they, and so exceedingly we'll adapted
for displaying the glittefingg, snowy nets,
OF clusteiing curls which II Is now the
fashion to weir upon the neck, TINT young
ladies have very generally given Up the
"iockeys' and potk-p,es," and adopted
the prevailing halfhandkerchlef," with all
its sins and redeemlng qualities Of grace,
prcttiness, and novelty.
WHAT TIE NEW BONEETs ARE MADE OF.
Among the finest displays made yesterday,
were those Of Simmons, Binns, Barronne aud
Madame Demorest on Broadway, and Mad-
anne Ral1ings in Canal street--and promising
that 1he day, which opened stormy and llke
March, became iaIr and clear as It progressed
towa1d noon, bringing ont crowds OF 1adles
anxious to discover their destiny in the shape
Of q bonnet-we Will endeavor to give the
stay-at-homes an idea Of what they are made
Of.
It Is not difficult to imagine triangular
piece Of lace, silk, OF velvet, but such fan.
| tastic figure cut in straw is opposed to I'LL
| orthodox traditions, and is, at first, extreme
! " difficult to realize. It Is m accomplished
| fact, however; the days of the steady, sol
| emn, old "cottage" straws, are over, and In
eustt pi1so ~ a,soE .tmonsL;n
epesetts taS W -. 1a,;oatn ,,at.'ror,1 n1i,crss
| glitter:ng with be4ds: aud still others dis
| playing the finest Embroidery in narrow bor.
der, or detached figures.
| The small size and dressy appearance Of
Inc new pu1ne.s' loseluee WIZ lAs sl'ta1 ~,
space a1oIaea 1of ttmmng' ienuess .nss .aa. un. .
usual decotatloo lsss aosufa anu eA!rasaSant u
seems 70 naton'ze "!.h tns scnG'al S, enaraG
yer o. tee aessn 1enla.haply wei, , al.uuusn =.
much less aaapteo 20 me WHEAT process ~
ceanlpe ana ah ahinG osss, "ussn e'tn 81
iaeuolous Iaolts uiu Aol 1oIuaeIsy olsna15 ~ "
practice upon TIER bonnets oi nne Ensllsn
Ideas OF utility are fast becoming obsolete
lit Is only the ANXIOUS motners OF laTst
families aud aged Aousekeepers who now 10
quire for sefylceaole" goods, and tleil
wishes are generally treated Win me m!1
tuse ol PITY nno contempt WHICH SUCH ante
The Easter honnets, from the atei1er Of Mme
Nutn,ie Tllnaan, Of 14s Ninth street, oisPlaJ
the usual tine taste Of this distinguished ar
tisle. They are. generalIy Of drawn slk, u
match the robe, the drawings wide apart
AID the croWns composed SIMPLY OF putdngs
OF tulle, tall Of lace or narrow .;,t ,nhck iace
harbcs crossed over white net. Ihc stf1ng'
ale vide, eelGcold1ed, and often ffinged
The ornaments are primroses, snowdrops, o!
white narcsssus, covered With hoar frost, ant
without foliage.
There are also charming bonnets Of dnt
English and Italian straW-tne latter .orna
mented st the back with light green 1eAhe
fringe, exquisite straw ornaments, and straw
chains. looped, and hanging low thu fornel
embroidered on the edge, IN q delicate black
pdssznenterk pattern, and having bact
composed OF fail Of rich black Lace, blu
and green, enameled pendants, "isp
%'1 qhn 91ne h a1u .oo5 eas o.
| strings checked IN the center With blue ant
green, and 1rinEed upon the edge
Another IVES oInamented with wide wh 1t
1.heon, o1oe"aeo N tne Gen'et @ IL - casnmes ait M
| Pot e!n' " eteeH, sea't MI o.*sA' ~,
with lovely transparent straw ho"ers, Wltl
black centefe; loops ano lone cuas VI marrow
nooon m matching TIE wide n; style ana pat pal
ten. Ih's also was einorpioereo upon III
edse, IN nne Crochet aesSu'
.iTo ptttt[ nonncs q D. "nilc Seapontai
must not oe ioFeottou: laey "stc uonPoset
o. He' une heaas orer rS'i
silk. me ornaments consisted u one sas
Wl'o foscs' % Ni,n loops PSI ana .Hns ~ .ha Gaas
Wnite sa1ln Ilo1on, A1a ~ tuS otuee :,
a1ooN1'g sp1l.s u It5 " tne ,.y' 'aey' nt.' ~
iooFS anu ehus VI p1iSsnI :heA1c'1n o1u
11ogon. .xx>o,,r;-. ,,,,,,ot.
l.
made loI oung, iaales o. sllS, WITH pumns 9
lace At tne VacA, cluslGl!hE lo9pa uno guo
OF naf1o" 9ooon or veset, aIa M!ue Huit ,t
{p.le 81, lnSs over DINERS o. een"coloreo 1lo
ptn. no mowers ne lequttsu. ,,5
feIl n1,IoN 4uillnss ~ oiaSa w. Ii.s, oignu =,
OF sa1in Iiopon, nave taken the pace o. - 10
s1oe Ipenes, LOT "91ea Luz ..'a sinaa. cose = PIN
anoIus ~ spnE t, -. ~ " ..af,at .;hha1 =
consists u plA1a uauo " tclsEl1 ia.o4n - y
cnenule, ac1oss tne loP, HiA psnuaun III ~
ing oses II, OF somc Slapte aia1Esnieut t1 ~ " =
s1ne.e ho"cs, " s1nai. ~. "!'a a"o1'Ai
ol1snL enalnei i1eee. ~ sus n Sense ha h,-a,,
houno na ~ tta sura nnao"sanaa "sH, n Nv ~
premise ~ pe ~ 'as tsant mte' 1sb ian% aioo1 @
type. 1Aen III llon'' WI" aons' 'toptn
crowns: ,
IN adMtlon 70 1nese ne nasg ~ s,ao1 aa
"Ialn.dfops, Inc 1atteS conslS3fus VI e"1
crystal gioonles, win inia'asere Hnss, =. =
which they can pc attachea - ponAels
! Beads of an sorts and sizes, Jet, steel, gil
and pearl, are Used in almost infinite prof
efon and variety. Bonnets are emeroldere
with them, In borders and detached nSursa
play them in fripged edges head dresses a1
feEtooDcd with them, III q ness, necklace'
combs End other ornaments made ;,,t OF thcn =
In TACT, ladies' are oeaoeo au over Ahe Ill Ii
dian fln-cushion:
Lnees ana art'cies ol , shs, 'aon 1T h
putting is very de1ea'c the tnesing eSqn
site'y fine, Jet piolusr Tug nsea!cwofk l"sc'
in aes'sn, ana 'he cho'cest N 4uau a.,
Walls orr attog. ther small ana found, aaap
= ca 10 the SIZE OF the pohnets. !uo Mtes
j. styles LaTe borders worked Win Ane stes
crystal, or jct teuds, in pace o. inc cneah'
and bug'e fringe, worn LAST season.
PANIC PRICES AND SUMMER DRESSES: T.,
Persona who have heard much o. me lall
It has affected fine, and especially imported
goods. Silk fabEics of all kinds ore, indee.
rather higher than lower-an advance Of
tcsn pcr cent having taken place In Englan
and France, owing to the scarcity Of Il
CT. E-and as this advance Is IN god, 1t mas
difference Of thirty per cent to 9ur M; NJ