The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1865-08-19

to be desired in this respect. 1t is hard
~ necessary to enumerate the various
IInodlhcat1ons which have helped to
improve the appearance of a modern
gentieman,s dress. Most of us recol-
Iect the old coHt-cOllar which used to
rise from the shoulders of the wearer
III padded roll until it touched the bnck
OF MS head. That ungninly feature
mas long since resumed its proper place
anu proportions, The waist coat now
terminates not as formerly across the
widest part of the chest, but at the waist.
Even sleeves and trowsers. the most
uncompromising details of mans ut
tlre, have of late been allowed to par
take in general outline of the shape of
those limbs which they inclose. The
morning coat, though not, perhaps, as
picturesque as it was hundred years
ago, is Infinitely better than that which
was in vogue in the early part of this
century.
+ WHAT Is WANTED.
Still there is great room for improve
ment. We want II style of dress which
lltt be at oneea picturesque and COM.
Portable. 1t must be fitted for the or
dinary vacations of life. 1t must be of
Il material which will not spot or spoil
i'll II shower. 1t must be of a design
which either tall or Il short man may
wear without making him too cOnspic-
uous. The knickerbOckcr suit, for eX-
ample, fultillS all these conditions Nd-
tnirnbly and we believe has been adOpt-
ell for ordinary wear i'll many country
gentlemen'S houses. With some slight
alteration i'll point of material, IGc., il
might be used very well in towns, and
those who have had to walk III trousers
through London mud would soon learn
10 appreciate the change. Above all,
our evening dress needs radical reform.
How II happens that black cloth has be-
come associated with occasions of pub
lie and private festivity, in common
with occasions of public and private
mourning, is riddle which we must
leave pOsterity to solve. But it is Ger
tain that in the existing state of society,
EnElishmen wear the same dress at an
evening party and Ht Il funeral.
We might go further, and remind our
readers that many n host who entCrtainS
his friends mt dinner has butler be-
hind his chair who is dressed precisely
like himself. To add to this confusion,
the clergyman who rises to say grace
might, so far aus his apparel goes, be
mistaken for either. This is not as il
should be, and we were glad to heur
some time ago that the Prince of Wales
contemplated the suggestion of COM
Plete change i'll evening dress. 1t is
only through the agency of such an eX-
ample thnt we could ever hope to eS-
cape from the conventional ugliness of
"a modern tnil coat, and looking mt the
subject from IL common-sense, as we'll
rs an artistic point of view, we really
think that his Royal Highness might
turn his attention to this matter, with
great benefit to the public.
LADIES' DRESSES.
With regard to ladies' dresses III Eng
land Mt the present time, Il littlo altera-
ton would make it-in form ut all
events-a very pretty and picturesque
costume. 1.-THE early part of this CEN
tuCy "waists" were far too high. About
IS years ago they were much too low.
Now, they arc Just where they should
be. Skirts are fulland of ample length;
bOdices and sleeves are deity shaped
and decorated. The arrangement Of
the hnir always supposing il to be real)
is, perhaps on the Whole, as good as it
ever has been i'll this country. But two
abuses remain to he rectifietl-namely,
the elaborate bonnet and the obtrusive
crinoline. No doubt, in the course of
time they will be rectitied. Meantime
we are content to wait. The ways of
the world are continually changing.
There is fashion in music, in poetry,
in paintings, in medicine, in politics, IN
religion. We need not therefore be sur
priscd to find one i'll dress.