The evening Argus. [volume] (Rock Island, Ill.) 1861-1871, 1865-09-13
LETTER FROM GEN. N. b. BUFoRD'
EASTERN POINT, Gloucester,
Sept. 7th, 1860.

to peace, before again eHseeDs II J
pursuits of life, it has oeen my privilege 70
ao,na To the Sea side, in New England, and
an;ov the sea bathing, the fishing, and rest
dnring the hot summer months. 1t was my
GOOD fortune to select this place, which has
proved to be full of delights. 1t is part OF
the rocky promontory of Cape Ann, which
elitters at night with six light houses, extern
ding from the one in Gloucester Bay to An
u,souan, q distance of ten miles. Our board,
ing house, Mrs. A. P. Warsaw's, 10 situated
on the rocks. within few feet OF the water,
and overlooks the harbor which indents the
land from between Light House Point ana
Norman's Woe, where it is two miles WIDE,
extending in horn shape three miles inland.
The head of the harbor Is enclrcleo by the
town of Gloucester, Furnishing place OF II
900 inhabitants, and which has become the
fishing emporium of New England Inc
city is in full view of the portlco where l am
writing, The harbor contains three islands
and msny rocky islets; and is the rendezvous
of a feet of more than Eve hundred fishing
vessels. On the opposite side OF the harbor
to where I am sitting the elevated rocky
shores are adorned by some splendid reslden-
ces of Boston merchants, who make that
place their summer homes.
Until / came here could not understand
WHY the CITY people of New York and Boston
had such q passion for a residence on the sea
shore during the months OF July and August
leaving their luxurious homes for the indlf-
ferent accommodations many OF them get on
the sea beaches to which they resort. But 1t
is all plain to me now. 1 now realIze that
bath in the surf has to be enjoyed before 1t
can be appreciated. 1t produces glowot
delight and revives health and vigor. On
the sea shore each day has its exciting and
~. = MISUNDERSTANDING
Gle of the ever changing tide eevates the
soul--the wonders of the sea In some great or
minute form constantly exhibit themselves to
the inquisitiye lover of nature.
| had been here but day before l was in
duced to rig line and fish from the rocks 80
steps from my door. l readily caught sea
perch, called 'sCurrens" here, from ! to II
inches long, which are excellent on the table.
The next day I accompanied an accomplished
sportsman to the bold rocks at Light House
Point to fsh for Tautog, splendid fish of
from to 10 lbs weight, which seizes the
bait Ia live crab) and puts to sea with 1t in
haste. Then comes the tug between you and
him if he is large one. The excitement of
catching one of them is the finest sport
have had here. 1t is next to trout fishing.
Mr.. George o. Hovey, liberal and veal
thy Boston merchant, who owns one of the
the harbor, keeps beautiful Yacht and
spends part of every Wednesday and Satur-
day during the summer in sailing and fishing.
He invited me to accompany him. The day
was fine, he sailed into the open sea about 5
miles. His Skipper had land marks by which
he found his anchorage on a ledge of rocks
80 fathoms below the surface. As soon as
anchored the party were supplied with cod
lines OF the requisite length and bait of her
rings, CLANS and pogies with which we com
menced deep sea fishing. Our host informed
US his custom was, always, after fishing, to
make a chowder on board for which his cook
had all the appliances except the fish but
if We caught no fish. we should have no
chowder A few minutes, however, dlspell-
ed all fears on that score, for soon we had
caught good supply of cod, hake. and two
huge catfish or sea wolves, fearful looking
fellows, but good on the table. At 2 P. NJ.
we weighed anchor the smell of the boiling
chowder stimulating our appstltes but IL
was not served ON the deck until our kind
host had sailed in and taken on board the Ia
dies of my family and his own and whilst
we were sailing quietly up the harbor, by
the numerous wharves where the Industrious
occupation of receiving and cutting the fish
was being carried on by the busy throng and
the picturesque scenery in the shipping, the
,Ity, and shores interesting US, we partook
Of real chowder, which we all pronounced
vas the best that ever was eaten Since
hen l have several times participated in this
I acRtlng and fishing amusement and agree
With Mr.. Hovey, that a merchant who has
been laboriously engaged in the pursuits of
business for fifty years can enjoy
10 more healthful or innocent amusement =
put it takes a rich man to be capable of sup
porting such accommodations as he enjoys
md participates with his friends.
The drives IN this vicinity are as interest.
ng to me as those about Niagara. The great
granite rocks on the shores and which make |
he islets in the harbor and on the coast are |
Ill upheaved and oontorted and split by huge |
shures. The dark seams of Basalt and Trap |
ocks which protrude through them afford |
tudy for the Geologist. Some of the Traps |
we're so soft as to have yielded to the action |
f the frosts and the sea, aud are worn out
o as to leave great Cave-like fshures in the |
ranlte. One of them, Rats Crack, is 20
Get wide, 90 feet deep, and enters the rocky
hore 100 or more feet, and the Sea enters it
t high tide, making a music of its own
itting by the Sea side, at low tide, all is
I'LL, but as the tide rises, rus hing over rocks
| infinitely varied forms, which it covers at
ugh tide, each locality makes a music of its
wn, which delicate ear can distinguish
nd thus know each locality, of dark night,
y the sense of hearing.
Cape Ann is promontory elevated about
90 feet above the Sea and was once covered
nth dense forest; but it is now nearly as
are as a stone quarry. Great boulders. as
arge as barn, are on the highest mounts.
nd all the loose rocks are so water worn
nd rounded that they give evidence of hay
Il been moved and rubbed by glacial forces.
Fishing produces more wealth here than
arming on our prairles. The large vessels 20
} st. Georges and the Newfoundland Banks,
} the coast of Maine and the Bay of St.