The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1865-09-22


There were some very pretty hats exhibition yester-
day formed of White silk embossed with Grape and veye
and trimmed with marb0ut and some extremely cas-
ttngue affairs made of black velvet One called the
gypsy was particularly striking and deserves pass
Ing Ing no,c o M only trimming was gold ana Cnanal ay
drops fell to one side, har monizng with the design and
adding to the beauty Of the tout ensemble
Judging from the plentiful supply OF opera hats that
graced the exhibition this opening, music will be
In the ascendant during the winter Every fashionable
modste propayes hats for the Academy regularly
for the promenade but this season they appear have
received more than their usual share OF attention. and TO
occupy more than their usual space In the rooms As
general thing white is the favoe color but some pre-
fer to suit their complexion rather than follow fashion,
and these instances Of individual assertion are frequent
enough 70 relieve the eye and avoid monotony
often happens that the very pretties hats from their
elegant simplicity, give little room for detailed descrip
sn sna hs wS v Without on
feathers that in one Of our most fashionable
dstes yesterday bouquet Of emerald green berries
gold cord ending in tasses was all the artistic had to
work WITH and out Of these slight materials she pro-
duced bonnet that could not fail to satisfy the most
fined TASTE
As a sort Of offset to the smalness Of the bonnet,
may be mentioned that the prices large enough The
bonnet may contract at the dictates Of fashion, but the
prices generally more than make for any falling of in
the quantity Of the material Bonnets be got for
twenty five dollars, but three times that amount s not
thought unreasonable for first class fashionable hat
Throughout the day the different millinery establish
Of the new styles In some there perfect jam, and
In all there was pleasant and we hope profitable bus
tie from morning until night Whether the success Of
the opening Is to be attributed 10 the favorable weather
or TO the great influx Of strangers among we know
not but We do know that It Is long since we have had
profuse display Of metropolitan skill and such keen ap
The following establishments were visited throughout
the day BY beves Of fashionaAes:-
mock MadamS imogsns WaltoS, Mrs Pray : Co., Mile.
Ievins & MRS J. e. Gosson, Madame R. A. Pagan,
Mrs ) P. Lovett, T. Jonanque, WEIGH and Burke
Thomas James g. W Basstord E. M.thers Co. Mad lad
Laughnan, Miss NJ E. houston, Madame Isaacs.
=, CANAL s1RxEr.K 4 Z, Caller, F: r. Lussier, Ms
Mrs co1es s ce Sp1 Ms A Eio si Ss Nv Whitaker
Madame adam Ransss Madame n v Leyis, Mrs Blake.
DIVISION SrREEr-H. Openhyrn. Openhym 4 Trisdor
fer Miss E. c. Clancy Mrs M Feely J. Spences Sons.
BowERY-Mrs J. W. Dempsey, Mrs E. Mcshane, Miss
sixth AvxSuE-Madame Kahn, Mrs. Aver Miss
Shugg, Mrs. Ringgold.
HUDSON STREET-MB Mclaughlin
SPRING SrRxEr-Mrs Rumrill.
HOWARD STREET-G Bracher.
FULTON STREET, BRooKLYN-North's.
DRESSES.
In this department there anything very now to
chronicle. All the light, elegant, fimsy fabrics of the
summer have disappeared with the equinox, and are
placed by those heavy materials and colors that
form pleasant a contrast to the fading leaves Of
autumn. MORE antiques, rich Silks popns alpacas,
Empress CLOTH reps and the endless variety Of goods for
winter strew tho counters Of Stewards, Lord h
Taylors, and all the fashionable establishments whore
New York ladies delight to spend their time and
their money Plain silks arc always elegant and stripes
and small brocaded patterns very desirable Changeabe
silks Still to be seen though not fashionable as
formerly. Dresses suits-that is the dress, under
skirt and basque of the color and maerial-are
the newest style and the highest fashion just now
Extravaganza is still the order Of the day and
serts its sway magnificent silks as 1t did the
airy nothings Of summer. 1t has simply changed its
base of operations, and gained in the heavy goods Of the
approaching hrmer field for display. The trim
mings DIVERSE complicated and profuse sometimes in
good TASTE but often in direct opposition to It, They
consist of velvet ribbon lace, silk fringe, braid and the
latest novelty gold and silver cord Cord is also used Of
other coo to match the Dress where gold cord is not
desirable suitable BY the way, gold enters very
much into trimmings of all kinds Mis- II min
giles with the flowers IN the bonnes bangles from the
ves il gltters among the embroidery and even in rich
collars OF point lace we see II shining
Sashes are very popular, and form very important
item of trimming Those wde ungainly belts that no
lady could with impunity have disappeared, and
in their stead we have belts Of moderate width fas
tened with clasps or buckles.
THE CORsAGE.
There many ways of making the C0rsage that
all tastes however DIVERSE sure Of finding some styles
TO suit them. Pointed waists still in fashion, with
points at 'front.' back the sides The
round waist again working its way into favor and the
"Belero" and other jacket shapes hold their ground
against all competition. Long tails still worn;
SO also is the deep square basque Both styles are un
graceful and II good taste, and not fashion, were con-
suited would not obtain more than ephemeral popu-
no matter what Is sacrced 70 obtain it. and that that
end Is attained must be conceded by all.
SLEEVE
In the hands Of sklful modise this portion Of the
gives character and tone to the entire Some Dress
makers imagine they have done everything that could
stylish sleeves, each unexccptonable In itself but no
more suited TO each other than Tuscan capital on a
Corinthian column. II Is a mistake, however which
artist will commit for she recognizes the fact
that perfection in tho details makes for want OF
unity and harmony in the whole design.
In view OF the many different styles Of sleeve that We
may select from would DO well TO bear these few words
OF warning In mind
mnous underseeve are longer to DO seem The revo-
luton Of time has brought almost to the opposite ex
barely leaving space for close fitting undersleeve
Sleeves half tight to the elbow, and trimmed with
oval tab tho back or with pufnss at the top and bot
tom OF the sleeve, much worn as also the funnel
shape the Cara, &c.
Caps arc almost universally worn and formed in all
sorts OF shapes epaulccs points and mcdaions being
the favorites.
Tho amplitude Of the skirt not In the least diminished
and its length rather increased Tho universal prac
tcc Of looping up the dress In the street was likely at first
thought o lead to tho erroneous impression that econo
my the object and therefore prompt measures were
taken 10 squech out such derogatory iden The Jupe
1T would be profanity 10 cali these elegant articles petit
cOafs) Is often mado OF the same material
fully trimmed and more deliberately ornamented,
lucd braided, scoloped and corded than any dress,
and finished in the most expensive style II Is thus, by
deeds not words, our ladies assert themselves
In the skirt in the other portions OF the dress pro-
fuse trimming Is the rule II Is sometimes carried round
the bottom OF the skirt and sometimes extends up each
seam II Is arranged In tabs lozenges laid In
bias fold In fact In every conceivable form that TRIM
ming can be made TO assume and In every available spot
where trimming can DO placed, find II. Fluting Is
now generally confined TO the underskrt Designs en-
brodcred with silk or braid and nterspersed with gold
steel beads will be In favor this winter and on heavy
material will be both elegant and effective. Cord IL also
in high favor and where properly used Is stylish and
d,stingus looking. In short, skirt trimming has been
carried to such that may confidently expect
return to simplicity; for In this, In other things ex
trcmes meet.
Chamber OF Com merce.
ELECTION or PILOT CoMMIssIONERs-CHIEF JUSTICE
CHASE AND SECRETARY STANTON INVITED TO
VISIT THE CHAMBER, ETC.