, 1865-08-29
AN OVERLAND JOURNEY.
From California to Oregon.
From Yreka TO Portland-FIne Scenery
Agriculture on the Pacific Coast
Gold In Orc;son-Nnctk, incidents, DC.

! From TrelKa TO Port1nnd-FIne Scener
Agriculture on the Pacific Coast
Gold In Orc%on-Ractx, Incidents, x,
Editorial Correspondence
PORTLAND, Oregon, July 20, 1865.
Decidedly the most interesting portion
our long trip was from Marysyiile, California
to this place. The distance Is six hundre
miles, nil by stage, except twcnty~clsht mile
from Marysyille to Oroville by rail, and fit
! miles from Salem, the capital Of Oregon, t
Portland, by steamer. True We saw west q
Denver, and In crossing the sierra Neyad
mountains, a greater variety Of sublime views
bnt they were surrounded by 20 much desola
tion that painful reflections would fo.c
themselves upon tho mind in spite Of the nd
misation We felt at the wonders by which ",
were surrounded. Ny Last letter was writer
from Frcka, the most northerly town in Cali
fornia, and commence this where LETT OF
The morning We started from Yreka wa.
fine, md on reaching the valley Of the Shasta
River, few miles north Of the town, we had
one Of the grundest views of mountain scene.
~ that can be found upon the American con.
tincnt. In the southwest were the sum1nite
Of Scott's Mountains, which We had crossed
two nights before, covered with perpetual
snow; perhaps twenty miles cast Was Sugar
Loaf, not 50 high, bnt beautiful cone, lying
darkly against the horizon, while still to the
eastward, towers mp In solemn majesty, a1onnt
Shasta, nearly three miles above tho Level Of
The sea. Fax down from the summit, for at
lenst i've thousand feet, his white muntle of
spotless purity hides ali his rugged features
and never for one moment changing that
snowy robe, there he stands, and there ho has
stood, looking down On perfect wilderness
Of mountains md far out upon the Pnci1c,
ever since God finished his work oil creation,
and pronounced II all ''very good.''' For IN.
upon Shasta with stupid awe, ns the home Of
tic Great Spirit; and now Christian men
cone to wonder and TO bow before the maies-
ty ind the glory Of Him swho setteth fast
tie mountains, being gisdcd with power"
A few miles to the north, stretching right
across our pathway, Is tho sis1ua range Of
mountains, and directly In front is Pilot rock,
a bald crng shooting vi, through the summit
line perhaps five hundred feet, and apparently
not more tlan two or three hundred Yards in
diameter. We were told II WIS named and
described by Fremont, who crossed the SIS
qua mountains few miles north Of the Rock
On hts first journey to the mouth Of the Co
lumbia. It. il an object Of mark for long
distance in all directions. VIC saw IL after We
Ind crossed the rnnge and were o long dis
tance to The uorth In Bear Greek valley, q
branch Of 1iognc river
Before reaching the sisqna ranges, We
crossed the klamath river, u large, rapid
stream, which cuts lis way directly Weat from
Klamath lake, on the plains, through tho
Sierra Nevada mountains aud the Coast Range
to the Pacific ocean. Near tho south base Of
the SisquaE, about thirty miles north Of Yre-
ka, we crossed the dividing line between Calls
farnla and Oregon. Before the survey It was
supposed II run along the suurnits Of tue
range: but the Commissioners have loeatedit
near the hotel and farm Of Mr.. Cole, q
thrifty New Yorker from Putnam county.
Three or four miles OF constant ascent, and
not 60 gradual as 1t ought 10 be, bring us to
tic summit Of the sisqua range, when We de-
ron, md gcry beautiful and productive one
1t l.. Fine cultivated farms greet and delight
the eyes the cool, delicious trade winds, find.
Ing their way from the ocean through the val
ley Of Rogue river, fan our brows; aud the
contrast between the barren valleys and for
the Klamath river, and the large fields waving
with grim ripe for the harvest, the comfort
able white frame houses and beautiful gar
lcns, was most refreshing and delightful. It
Is scarcely possible to conceive how great Is
the change in d journey of twenty miles. AL
most Immediately on crossing the summit Of
the sisqua Mountains, the character Of the
new plant to us, with lis broad green leaves,
md smooth rcd bark, changing every year, at-
tracts attention, and the white and tho black
oak, the ash and the maple, none ofwhfch We
rccollect to have seen since leaving the forests
Of the Missouri, remind us Of our distant home
L the goedly State Of Illinois; The valley Of
Behr creek ls not very broad, but being eomc
thirty miles long and very productive, tue ia!"
mcrs are enabled to supply the miners ID thls
vicinity.
At lie lower end Of the valley, VIC reached
the fne little mining town of Jacksonville,
the most southcrly county scat in Oregon.
There We remained for the night, and greatly
enjoyed the rest VIC were thus permitted to
guin. Early fn tho morning We resumed our
Journey northword, and d ride of dozen
miles brought us to the banks Of Rogue river,
down which the rond runs for several miles,
after which wo again take to the ridges that
divide the valleys Of the Rogue and Umqua
rivers. Near the summit, Mt the left Of the
road, Is Grave Creek Rock, presenting nothing
very special in Its appearance, but which the
Indians regard with 6uperstltious ave- We
could not learn precisely what calamities be-
fel their ancestors, or what religious rites they
perform here; but whether one or many In
dians pass this rock, they always approach It
with great reverence, and perform tue most
the tribes in the vicinity a few years since had
murdered 1arge number Of Oregon settlers,
and were at last logged into peace and taken
to their reservation, they could hardly be
forced by this not very remarknblerock. A few
miles further, and We reached Grave Creek
station, where VIC were most Hospitality enter
taincd by Messrs. Hardness and Twogood.
Mr.. TWogood was formerly resident Of Chi
cago, for many years, and Is brother-i1.law Of
one Of our " solid" citizens. He and his ex-
ccllent wife, IN 1owa lady, by the way, gave
Mr.. col'ax and "hls party amoss cordial
western welcome. The Chicago TRIBUNE
makes reggular visits to this distant but intel
llgcnt and most hospitable home.
Again VIC are OF, and toward evening pass
through um4ua canyon, through which a
government road was made by Gen, Hooker.
The canyon Is Ten miles long, and so difficult
was 1t to get through ut first, that the first
company Of cmigrants that passed by this
route to the Umqua Valley were two weeks
in s1,rmounting the obstacles before them.
The sides Of the mountains arc almost perpen.
dicular, the pine and fir trees grow to an I'M
mense height, and such dark, dense tangle-
wood as thls canyon presents, we have not
met anywhere in our Journey. The remains
OF Gen. Hooket's road are still seen; but the
line has been greatly improved by the COM
pany who now own it, and though they keep
and south, through this part Of Oregon,
plctty Emartly for their own special benefit.
At evening Of the first day from jack
sonville we had made serenty-tvc miles, md
were then in the Wiley Of tho Umqua river.
ucre VIC also found some very fne, productive
farms, and riding all night reached Oakland
early IN the morning. Fifteen miles more
brought us to the home Of Hon. jesse Apple
gate, one Of the very earliest settlers Of Ore
gon. Though native Of Kentucky, he docs
not believe In what We understand by tKen-
tucky politics." and Is really one of the
strongest possible Union men. And wfthal,
there Is not more original thinker or patrI
otitic citizen In the whole Land. His farm,
embracing the valley of branch of the
Umqua river, Is one Of the largest and most
productive IN the State. After an excellent
breakfast he rode with us to tho next
station, interesting Us alike In Ills
correct and profound observations on
national affairs, and his valuable facts In rela-
tIon to the early history md settlement Of the
Pacific coast. Another weary ascent Of half
dozen miles brought rs to the summit Of the
Halapooya range of mountains, descending
from which We were on the streams which
flow into the Willamette river. From the
ridge overlooking the ral1ey there is most
enchanting view of finely cultivated farms as
far north as the eye can reach, while on the
east the Cascade, and on the west the coast
rnnge Of mountains, with their deep blue, and.
IN few instances, SNOW clad summlts, ,togeth-
er make a p:cturewell nigh worth the crossing
Of the continent to gee. The valley of the
willamette IL about hundred and afty
miles lopp. north and south, By twenty-five to