The Burlington weekly hawk-eye. [volume] (Burlington [Iowa]) 1860-1876, 1865-01-28
THE History Of lFinOlfne.

A book hiss recently been published IN
London, entitled "Crinel.ne IL :he Parks
and Pronenades, from ITO 20 1854" In
review o. tie work, the London Speeta-
tor says:
Crinoline las row lasted eleven wears,
in spite Of fdenunciations from artists, cier-
gyILen, and all such men who have 70 pay
for womens dresses, or suffer by the in
adequate dimensions Of modern carriages.
and there seems NO reason why it should
no; last until the end Of the century. When
The Empress Eugene, in her wish TO con-
ceal that she had attained the goal OF her
ambition, reintrodu uced the fashion, il was
treated as one altogether new and Temporal
ry, but the truth is that The bell dress is the
normal English fashion, and the scant
skirt rare and temporary innovation.
"Crinoline,' IN its trade sense, did not
last twelve months; the material so-called,
which is simply bad n uslin, giving way at
once 70 the thin steel-hoop; but in its con-
ventional sense il has lasted, under differ.
ent names, nearly three hundred years.
There il, in fact, principle, or we should
rather say an impulse, beneath al very
radical changes of fashion. Mems dress is
affected materially by alterations OF politi-
cal feeling, the present tendency, amidst
many small changes, being abviously to-
ward equality OF caste-a tendency 90
strong that the use OF any thing very con-
spicuOus, Of costly colors, and, in y less de-
gree. Of costly material, is voted decidedly
snobbish. A duke dare not walk down
Picadilly dressed in cloth or gold or even
in the dress in which Mr.. COghlan plays
''Sir Caradoc' at the Olympic, though, as
II 10 point out the reason Of the change, he
might wear that very dress, minus the
gold-lace frogs, without further notice than
a suspicion that he was an artist vain OF
his pursuit.
Politics do not often affect woman's
dress: though the French Revolution,
with It's false tone OF classicality, revived
the habit or stripping, carried SO far sixty
years previous that Miss Chudleigh re-
ceived one morning, after her appearance
at a State bali, fig leaf, as mild hint,
but the theory of dress does. Fer three
centuries the notion has teen 20 drape the
female figures so as 20 show the bust and
leave the trunk and limbs completely con-
cealed, notion interrupted at Intervals by
the more artistic idea that the object Of
dress is % reveal while ooncaa.ing. Each
fashion hes been n turn advocated and
denounced on the score Of Gacancy old
gentlemen, whose wives wore no fuckers,
and who quite approved 81 q fashion
which left the gown as tie ht az we. bath
dress, now being loud Oh he improperly
OF showing ne ankles, which, agaln, a cen
.ury ago, were as Little within Or without
the limits Of proper reserve" as he wrists
now arc. Each fashion also Eas been
praised by men on account Of its con-
yenience, and each by turns las seemed 70
the nez. generation almost inexpN Ncahly
ludicrous, people nov laughing AZ tie h4gh
waist and .ight dresses Of 1900, az the
danes Of that day Laughed at the stately,
bell-like forms of lsi1, ~ s.s he encu,n-
hered figures of1SC4
On tho whole. aud over . long course oi
years, the wide drapery had carried the
day, for the simplo reason that the sex tha.
hns TO wear it likee it bes. Of the two. The
tight dress nighthe all very we'll for girls
! Of twenty-five, just IN Their maturity D
form, but only one-ihh Of wonanhood
Twas as acy cre TUE cf tae itting age: and