The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1865-09-22
THE FALL FASHIONS.


OPENING DAY N THE METROPOLIS.
Fortunately the equinocta storm got start OF the
mners this season, and had its exhjnon over before
theirs commenced This ensured fine weather for the
Sopening-a rather unusual luxury, ana ORG VI which
fashionables failed avail themselves a. in
compliment to the OCCASION everything looked Its best;
the store windows displayed their most tempting goods
the ladies' donned their newest gear; stylish looking
equpages dashed through the streets and everything
from the bright sky overhead to the dry sidewalks under
foot added 70 the festival look of the day to the
pleasure of those who exhibited the fruit of wea weeks
of invention and labor and those who came to admire
and compare TO select and purchase
There more real business done yesterday than
been for many an opening past Money seemed
abundant, and never readily parted with The
styles excited great deal of comment and criticism
but admiration predominated. They are new and odd
two great points in their favor small enough in the
front to all the requirements of fashion, and
claimed wide enough at the cape to admit of ''water
fail" This think doubtful, but nasmuch fashion
Is tickle and the waterfall no novelty the popularity Of
the bonnet will not depend on its adapablity TO
that style Of wearing the hair.
Outside garments undergo little change until later In
the season. but novelty in the shape of sleeveless
sack, has made its appearance this month, and win
probably retain Its hold popular favor weather per-
hitting, for some time to Short sacks paletots
casaques casquines and circulars all indier
emily, and equally popular and equally fashionable
The coming season will probably develope some novel
ses in outside garments which are very much wanted
ffor though we have variety enough we lack genuine
novelties. Indeed it is rumored that the winter will
tbring US something decidedly original in this depart
mont This will be good for those who tired Of
: sacks and circulars and long for radical changes
BoNNErs.
The bennets for the coming odd, striking
and original rather than graceful pretty Fashion,
however is exactng only on one point, and that point
novelty and the styles novel enough to
satisfy the most whimsical TASTE presume they will be
popular accordingly The fanchon which held its ground
tenaciously during the summer, is, like the summer,
passing away and giving place to the "Empire" the
Josephine" the 'Gypsy," and outre looking monde
scrps formed by curious combinations Of these three
principal varieties of the new STYLE
Crowns have in again. but not so the capes these
are replaced by straight ungraceul band which seems
rather proongation of the crown than cape The
crowns are generally stiff and fat but soft crowns have
also made their appearance but these instead of droop
ing as formerly rise above the level Of the brim full
erect pulls The front is close and round resembling
the old cottage In shape but not in sze The trimming
is confined almost exclusively the top of the bonnet
and affects erect sateness rather than careless grace
and must be confessed there Is something very striking
and attractive in its elegant though unyeldng formality
This style of trimming is in such strong contrast with
the pendent sprays, floating ribbons and dropping feath
Of the last that it is quite relief the eyes,
fatgued with endless repetition Of the idea Flow
er berries sprays and grasses enter into the trmmin
and gold In every form, from delicate chainwork gilt
tering fringe and tiny coin to FURNISHED butterflies with
Ouspread wings, lends its peculiar lustre Lace
also much used in trimming, and ostrich and marabou
feathers frequently enhancing the beauty and
adding TO the elegance Of the tow ensemble The mater
ais arc royal and uncut velvet chip and silk plain and
embossed. Wells Of tulle and Chantly attached to
the left side Of the bonnet mpartng TO 1t an airy grace
and costly elegance that add wonderfully to its atrac
tons
The turbans and round hats are still worn and some
pearance at the opening. Prominent among these is
the "Madens," composed of black velvet, the fulcd
down tho centre A fanchon of black velvet relieved
with stroames Of black and crimson falls over the
waterfall half hiding and half revealing the gering
Beauty draws with single hair,
<vha& must be the effect Of waterfalls
Notwithstanding the marked changes in the bonnet,
M still continues very small the 'front.' In fact, Is but
nominal afrAir-a foundation which to arrange trim
miag-'ony that and nothing more" AS to its being
shade for the face or Offering any protection from the
weather, that Is absurd an old fashioned idea-so Old
again the latest fashion. The crown and band look
like providing against the winter, and better sti they
TO rejoice at for that artificial and manu-
featured deformity has had its day and than Its
day. and we would be glad to see the shape OF the head
AS for coors It would be impossible say which Ia
most fashionable Green Is In high favor and white for
opera full dress Ia in great demand Promenade hats
are gravcr, but very elegant and stylish aud richly
trimmed.
We never remember 10 have seen plcasantcr or
more successful opening than that Of yesterday
prepared with much care and participated IN with
30 much zest The bonnets generally admired, the
Admiration in many instances being proportion the
soddty Of the bonnet and the unusual character OF
the trimming. From among tho many that came under
our observation will select few describe In full
that ladies who had not an opportunity Of being present
may have correct idea Of the incoming styles.
rpire shape was universally admired for its simple,
lined elegance The most delicate blonde and the rarest
could be sdsne.y seen clustes Of CHANGING green ber
y1es, composed the trimming.
Beside this bonnet placed the Josephine" as
odd elegant striking and oure as any hat worn
by the graceful imperial creole whose name bears and
OF which seemed to DO Llliputian representative
The material was black velvet and tho trimming, flowers
and gold ornaments disposed round cape and brm,
and glstsning amid grass and sprays and flowers.
The crown was soft and rose above the brm
stately and full and around was coed treble cord Of
gold From the cape danglcd and swung small glitter
ing ornaments, resembling shower OF gold and daz.
tho mythical realms Of the great FL Dorado lowered
over the strings as II resting after weary flight Rich
crimson asters gold sprays gray leaves ana Dhck iace
formed q very becoming face cap.
Another very elegant hat Of mauve velvet attracted
the attention OF the spectators and shared the honors
with the "Josephnc" The front was as small, but in
stead Of being round and shapeless was pointed In the
centre in the well known "Msry Stuart" shape. and
turned up In the side brim from which gold pendents
swayed TO and fro with the slightest motion This shape
neither permits requires face cap veil Of tule,
dotted with golden stars falls 70 one side. forming
graceful finish and producing very charming effect
We must not forget another gay, stylish looking bon
net OF the empire shape made Of white royal velvet
laid plain tho foundation, brim and forming
but one piece. The junction Of the crown and the
straight band by courtesy or through custom called
cape hidden under ruchng Of velvet and fall OF
black lace concealed It's siin unyeldng lines and i'm
parted TO q fictitious grace Through the centre Of the
ruchng run . gold cord trimming in tassels OF
of the Same material On the edge OF the brim
a little 10 ono side waved white and purple feather OF
mixed ostrich and marabout and the other side pur
ole vioets interpreted with coin completed the trim
ming Il would be difficult to conceivs more quietly
elegant hat than this, without having II to
imasine the possibility of softening down the formal