Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1865-11-26
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rr-popFAN WINTER FASHIONS.

'S The novelty of the moment consists D
~ placing, above the hem, wide band g
of passementerie, forming also a pattern q
st each breadth. We have seen TINS u
black and gold, upon violet SATIN, an'
.,- black and silver upon blue mOire.
We must stil record That the goh
be and silver are greatly in favor. Othe
passemeuterie trimmings are made in ;
be series of rings, or plain leaves interiaced
~ and put on I'M distinct ornaments upon
each breadth.
- As To the plain skirts, they are gener
ally scallODei round the bottom, an,
N edged with thick cord, iu which is twistet
= q thread Of gold or silver. Linsey auC
kuickerhocker are worn as early morning
Is dresses. and these heavy materials ar,
"a made with q vest and q waistcoat, or che
mise rus-e Of embroidered cachemire
2 The tight high body is not admissible, a
IS least, only with basques, and opened in
Pc front over waisteoat, perhaps Of en-
hroidered percale or plated muslin.
We have already mentioned double
: skirts as fashionable, bat we must repeat
the information, as every day brings
t fresh proof Of its truth and when the
u sleeves and uuderslirts are different 10
the upper skirt and low body iJ produces
, a very stylish effect What can be
e prellier than a dress Of white silk, with
r an upper skirt and small boddice of blue,
r green or cerise2 BY many ladies the
= / Princess or Gabrielle make is preferred,
as the dress, being cut in one piece, Is
p considered TO give a more graceful bow
: 70 the train, which is worn rs long or
I longer than ever.
! We have been asked whether there is
+ ANYTHING fresh In the make Of sleeves.
/ II seems there is no change whatever
still the sleeve q coude-or small coat
sleeve. and certainly for the cold weather
they are very suitable. However, the
small fancy vests Of different shapes are
. likely 70 be much in favor. There viii
then be plenty of opportunity for making
use of the very elegant lingerie which is
now seen
We must not omit TO mention that
Cluny lace Is much used for trimmings.
The fashion Of wearing a band outside
tiEhr-httiug casaqUes continues 70 be
adopted but they should never be worn
with any but those of cloth, cachemire
or plush. Several centuries suitable for
this are made Of Russian leather, to-
gether with jet pearl or steel clous and
I buckles.
A dress Of blue taffetas with silver
threads and large white spots. Round
the bottom Of the skirt is placed a band
Of black taffetas, edged on each side with
O narrow blue and silver cord This band
I is carried up the back Of the dress in two
rows To the CeinUure, which Is made of
. the same material as the dress On the
] shoulders and the bottom Of the sleeves
! are ornaments of passementerie and taf-
fet8s.
4 bright green mOire robe. The skirt
plain; the body made with basques, cut
F In tabs, trimmed round with q white silk
fringe with a heading of point de NeHiSe
gallon The 'front.' Of the body Is fastened
. bv pearl buttons set i'm gold.
4 gray f0uiard dress with double skirt,
the under one having r0gBd it three wide
. insertions Of guipure pas on the festoJns .
OF rather waved. Small c0r9elet of the
same material as the dress trimmed .
around with narrower insertion. A bow .
Is placed at the point Eahiui, from which I.
ends. also trimmed TO match. With this .
20 white muslin, oT muslin and lace un-
daTb0Jv is worn.
! A robe of green poulI de sole the trim +.
ming com POSED Of a narrow green and .
black ball fringe, with q heading of
beaded pas-gmeuterie. Five rows of This /.
are placed in fa-to0ns. crossing one .
another round the bottom of the skirt, /
and q row up each seam. The body .
which i= vcste da ehaSse open with .
rever- u front, and with a long basque .
IIlf'. 10 LAa-IH'4Ir anu IT,
i- worn q ce-utUre with a large buckle. T.
4 robe OF ccTise taiIetas, the skirt cut /
on the bias, and without any plait at the .
waist. with a trimming OF white silk .
jhauilly. 4 wreath OF Byzantine roses /
ruGmd me skirt short distance UP. The +.
trimming Is @ novelty, and may be had I.
lu different t'owaT@-Ii'iaS, lilac yiulcts, /.
roses OF an u0i0rS, etc, and has "a very
rich appearance. The cOrsawe of this .
dress is made low, with wreath %
match round the top les~ruug iu width /.
at the shoulders and in the front. Ceiu- .
. tre fastened al the side with an elegan- /
tire rose, with foliage hanging down /.
. over the left side of the skirt.
An evening dress oI pink moire. The f.
body low and cut square, is trimmed F.
with three rows of silver point dc Neuise |
Tine sleeves are formed of b0uillions Of
pink tulle, fringed with silver. The
skirt long and with a train, has five
bla-es of pink moire, fringed with silver,
alternately with insertions of silver
point DE NeUi~e round the bottom.
An evening toilet Of pink tulle, spotted
with white and gold chenille. The bot
tom Of the skirt is bOUillOnne, headed by
"a wreath Of autumn leaves, yemed white
silver The body Is bOuillonne I'm 'front.' /
and a wreath like that on the skirt, but
of smaller dimensions, forms three
points. The sleeves sTE short, and have
. branches OF foliage hanging from the
shoulders.
. A white muslin dress, suitable for
. golug lady, having the front Of the skirt I
made en- talliur, with rows of straw-col- /
0red ribbon and Nalenciennes lace. The
4 bottom is trimmed round with q ueiisss of
muslin. upon which Is placed a straw-col- |
0Fgd ribbon then q wide b1uillOune, with |
a headingof Nalencienues, and the tahlier I,
is trimmed all round with the same I
edgiug, A low gathered body, with a
small band round the top, upon which /.
are placed three rows OF very narrow /
straw ribbon, edged Oh each side with
, Naleucieunes. Short sleeves formed of
a single L.uillonle, with band similar
10 that finishing OIL the top Of the body.
/ Ceinuue fast sued in 'front.' by a rosette.
4 robe OF chambre q Ia NuscOvite. 1t
Is cut on the bias in one single piece. The
, material employed is cashmere, blue, via
oIet. ana miNJtre OF gold and black, etc
and Is trimmed round with black anU
white terry velvet, initiating Astraban-
These bands OF velvet form reyers, col.
lets, and are placed round the armhole,
and cut iu fCsJoOns. Buttons OI stars OF
pearl and cable passeIncntcrie form the
a.teuings Of this comfortable and dis
tingue robe de chambre. u is lined
through with tatietes of a shade suiting
the cashmere.
The chapeau Empire has triumphed
over the chapeau fanchon, and, although
bvuo means SO graceful as the latter
may bc sail 10 reign 20 the
present moment. The principal trim
miugS are feathers and lace, but gold is
still worm thus q very pretty and SIM
pie bonnet was made OF Julle DOullonne,
trimmed with q scarf Of the same,
spotted with gold, fastened at the side in
two small bows, IN the center Of which
was placed q small bird, the long ends OF
the scarf Icft floating. The inside of the
bonnet was trimmed with black velvet
and gold
Another at the same house was Of blue
Grape trimmed with patte- of blue velvet
forming stars, and covered with white
blonde ON the crown was small bird
Of golden hue. And a third OF black vel
vet, spotted with gold, and trimmed with
gold Butterflies.
Another very elegant bonnet wasmade
/ OF green tulie, with an Empire curtain,
. trimmed with medalions Of guipure. At
/ the side a ro5etie Of white feathers, sur
-ounded with "a quilting of velvet edged
/ with gllipme; Q bandeau Of green velvet
1 and bouquet Of jasmine.
4 black velvet bonnet bad a small cur
/ tain embroidered in "a gold gTecque. At
/ the side coauiiles Of black lace and a
bouquet of peacock feathers. The in
side trimmed with a bandeau Of velvet
embroidered like tne Cultain, and small
bouquet to match that Oh the outside.
a black satin bonnet was almost en-
tirely covered with a scarf Of tulle bou-
illone worked with chenille, fastened to
the bonnet by small brooches Of canoes
and chains of jet, with a bouquet Of vel
Vet H5stHrtiums at the side. The same
b trimu.ug Is lepuoduled Inside tne bonnet.
b A bonnet of royal blue velvet had
the front covered with "a number Of
. Sigal bias folds; the crown quite straight
] and surmounted with a wreath of
] velvet leaves and nie,iahoEs ~ ilt. Ia
J the inside, leaves and medalions on a
bandeau Of velvet.
, a violet velvet bonnet the crown
quite plain and trimmed with q bouii-
: l0nne Of velvet Round the front and
p curtain, which was quite plain. a wreath
, Of chinchilla coloTed feathers. with