Delaware State journal and statesman., 1865-01-17

iIg so, he has published - nj e6 -
plates, showing the form ofthe y .ss---sI
lSi0 to 1884. They are very gooua;; 's';; ~.
very weil-eopied, illustrated witlf.aBc. =
atTocious letter press trash OF the mosl
insuffsrable kind ami really show how
little change has occurred IN female cost.
ume for more than a hundred and ffty
years. The . hoopn ofl7l0, which the
1attsr ridiculed, is precisely the hoop oi
| our own dag, though covered more tight
" by the dress, ani thrown out by iuter-
nal machinery more completely from the
hips. A lady III print of that year is
seen descending into sedan ollair
through the roof of her odd machine, in
! a dress which might pass to-day down
Regent street without any remark from
the Street boys on its oddity orcharae-
ter. The new hoop which Mr. Phihott
says had Just been introduccd-7u hoop
the whole circumference OF which was
thrown forwards 10 manner at once un.
calmly and incorrect not indeed
been revived, but it is scarcely more ug-
| y than the astounding article worn,b
the lower classes of LOndon-a single
hoop which expands the dress at It's hem.
and makes the wearer look as il she had
covered a close blanket with linsey-wool-
sey and were walking abont in that
In lISV the ladies has discovered that
the bell-shaped dresses should he long,
and should expand in curve, hut there
was no other change, and in l735sthe
pettieoats, though less rotund, were as
short as ever Ten years later the bell
head expanded to the shape of an egg,
each side OF the dress being thrown out
In style which may occasionally beseel
ln the street Of Loudon, but which, iortu-
nately, mas as yet no warrant from fash
on. The hoop at this time must either
nave been constructed of iron or timber
as no whalebone would have suIileed TO
throw out the pettieoat as if extended
over colossal fan. 1t would either. have
collapsed altogether, as cheap crinolihe
DO, or have subsidized into the circular
irom to which all such adEiees of neeess-
ity tend. In 1880 the dress, again long,
was again thrown out artiicially on each
slde OF the waist, thrown ont so excessive
" that a man might have sat eOmforta-
ply on each side Of his wife's hoops as on
carriage cushion, and women of fashion
al looked as If they carried nilk-pails uu-
der their robes. In 1850 the hoop began
to decrease ! BY 1885 It had reduced it,
self to what are now called moderate di-
menslons, !. e., about four times the natur-
al size, and by l795 the dress had again
become straight, a line drawn from the
shoulders falling without the hem of the
gown, as i supposed TO do in the natur-
al human figure
Thenceforward to about 1920, the
steady tendency was towards as little
dress as possible, narrow petticoats, high
waists, and no fuckers, till at last, about,
1882, the fashion subsidized into the cus.
tom which middle.aged men regret und
market women still wear, and which was
not seriously changed ill the elevation -
OF the beautiful Seotu.Spauiard 10 the.
throne Of France. The Empress Eugene.
bright, pretty lucky, aud enthusiastic ID
dress, seized the helm OF fashion from
the lrSt, and, by the aid OF hdr miilhafs,
mas Kept it ever since, regulating tie .
hAif, petttcoats, sleeves, aud bodicrs of
all the ladies In Europe. Her maiesty
has, We think, only failed once. English
women having declined "a a,asss to a1opti
the use OF the walking,sLick, which con- ,.
ceals and produces a stoop; but then 10
be sure the silkmercers had no interest
in supporting her decree, and this Is the
age whep sovereignty msansithe promo
ten of material interests
If Mr. PhiIpott wishes his advertise
ments to succeed, no mast go TO still
greater expense than he has alreAdy.in-
CURED, complete his collection ofplates
by Illustrations from the time Of Anne
Boleyn, get his letter-press rewritten by
somebody who understands dress ami
history, and spells whimsical'' with in
stead of without an "h,' and strike, out fiji
all the absurd hoops without wearers with
which he has degraded a clever puff to
the level ofaiwalking Strand placard l.-