New-York daily tribune., 1865-11-18
THE FASHIONS,
The November Msdcs-CionLs, futs. Lnoes
and Bonncts-Sryio OF Wearing sho
Hair.

One Summer day. the bachelors Of Marseilles
and on other Sumner days, other French bachelors
after them and again the bachelors OF ITeaDdn con
eresS assembled protested against the extavagant eh
penditure Of the women whom they know These roses
uudistiled, they said, ust wther on their virgia
stalks, bloom fade AID die In single bessodnesa For
when collar or vail costs months salary. and the
flowers In only one of the innumerabe boDnets OF a
year represent the hard work Of many days what hope
Of glowing feside. aud well ordered table. aud all
the ease. aud rest. and rosy atmosphere Of hcmei
NoW whether be tha, this Cry Of the Cebates hos
been head 10 hgb places. or that Rumor is right In
declaring that the lovely Empress has turned 'esisr
and scBters longer gold dust Of PRIDE but ashes OF
penitence from her shn hair ca she floats through
her palace balls. certain It Is that the most perfect
Partisan toilets are marked by distinguishing sim
picity.
Here, however. the Carnival Of the Grotesquo Is
still al hight Broadway windows arc gtteriDg spi'
dcrwebs into which poor little foolish flies OF fashion
noisiy fit, TO escape only with despolled purses
and alas 10 atom OF dear.bougbt wisdom. II Lydia
Locker to lose her pocket anywhere in that tempt
ing tboroughfare and Kitty Fisher found it, be surv
there would he not bt Of money in it, Only rboon
round 1t. We open each mornings TRIBUNE. expect
ant Of the appeal from yonng bachelors TO the
lovely ard lavish Lydiss TO remomber that the
school Of profuSeness iu which they graduate is not
a healthy or uobls one and that clerks and
salcried men. wien honest. ere not CrGsuses Yet
there is much excuse for pretty Lydia. who, seeing
charming things, naturally wants them, and does not
dream at sac is exirayagant She wears expensive
ga ments TO be attractive because il ia the fne in
stnct OF the TO please tho other. she believed
that simple rsnent and cheap attire were equally be.
coming. and cqusy bean'fsl IN mems eyes she would
gladly wear it and ruf the money sayed to excellent
uses The mistake is that drOss made a vanity. aud
not fne art that girls taught. directly and ia
direct that is accessory hat principles not
the graceful means. but the important eud. Suob dis
tinctirc efforts at reform have had have come
from women with force enough TO protest against the
bad order Of things but without the fneness To perceive
the latent causes and tie thorough seeing.
without sUciai pOVsr 70 amend What thoroughbred.
elegant refined Woisn " culture Of thought Of poetic
instincts Il acknowledged position. will inaugars.e the
Golden Age o! Fashion in dress that her sis,erhood
may rise up aud cail her bicssedi Meanwhile bearing
tie Ills we have. Les L. examine
CLOAKs.
Basqunes and the bpif Gtting psleot are the pre-.
vaiing modes. With ite hong and Close sleeve. they
are aru aud suitable for seryiceablo garments. But
we protest against them In velvet. That material 81
regal in its richness aud declaring s costlness In
every dusky inch. should have flowing outlines and
unbrohen surfaces Otherwise It's shape contra it,
suggestions which these Of amplitude. largeness,
and luxurous CAGE Tie graceful oncular tho French
sacque always ladyke and Questionable. or tho
Spatisl. mantila which our climate. however. makes
undesirable IN endest weather the suitable shapes
The trimming sparlngly used siould be Ice, which,
Ike tie garment, is superb. dateless. and imper.
isbable Tie ephemcra glmps and cro,chet orna-
ments beautiful as they Gre. have no place upon
velvet These trim the pretty cloth closks
eharmingly however and are strotg and Servioeooe.
Plain dark oplo-s and especially black. will 10 pre-
ferred for Winter cloaks. Very largo pnids are oc'
casiOnaly seen. which are Us ugly as costly. White
cloths IN short have been worn somewhat but
the color is utterly unsuitcd 10 the street. or N
church. and the shape TO visiting or the opera Very
light fine cloths with spots or figures oi black or
colors ave common but not tosteiuL When made oto
sacques they aIe trimmed with vorsted chenille fringe,
with YAK fiinge and not seldom with gilt bands ana
nsel cords and tassels 1t is unnecessary to say that
nev are hideOus On dark cloth ana velvet cloaks
borders of fur will be worn. They give au appearance
Of warmth, which qnite stractve out rs IL is az up
pearaLcc only aud urs ts Winter very expensive.
the fashion Will not be popular. The black Astrakhan.
which as Whim, wOs last Winter successiul. will be
this Winter to some extent both In coaEs muh'
ard ss trimming. 1t costs sll yard aud 10 too
wo,y 10 be really beautiful There Is no change In
the STYLES of otera cosks since last noticed them.
Tie circular and 5urnous ere the popular shapes.
FUEs
arc more beautiful and more cOrtly than ever The
collar is sin tic prevailing shape, but 1t IL little
deeper behind. and has square enGs in front IN tho
jpssfort1 which protect tho chest The deeper half
canes are seldom seen and the rioh coaks are only
memory. The odd pocket mufs, too grotesque 10 be
quite tasteful seem growing in favor. They are made
with 1 her back and MAX front with the tiny alert
head Of the animal the lapel Of tho pocket For
,katipg they arc comfortable and for bitter weather
convenient as handkerchief and purse are easily ac'
cessble Cuffs ar, little worn. beiog expensive. and,
with seeyed clonks and muffs. not necessity.
Russian sable as always, is rsrest richest and most
exrensye deep collar and muR costing several hupd'
ed dollars Hudsons Bay sable, thick, fine soft. and
deri may be bought for $50 Mink ever popular. and
in the finer grades rich and soft 10 next IN value In
pooe of the ooarser grades marvos that the sof
,bck gyey souirrel fur is not universally used Is
oompsratiyely cheap. and very durable. Ermine i'
,b, wear little less costly than mink and for carriage
or evening wear dain,y beautiful, but for the prom
epads lace ounoe, are not uont and they belong
by rgh. only In wsdrobes whore there suo'titutei
and seryiceable set Of mink or sable already bolds
the place Of honor.
BOSHBTs.
In crossing tho Atlantic. have suffered seachange
into something rich aad strsagoi most OF those which
glow Tx, Autumn flowers. as gorgeous and aiaS' "a
tny--in tho show. .oases bearing The fainteH resem