Daily Ohio statesman. [volume] (Columbus, Ohio) 1855-1870, 1865-10-09
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THE FALL FASHIONS.
The New, STYLES of BOnnets and
''"'' Dresses. It'r H'.
From. the New York Herald.l

b
is novelty, and as the new styles are novel
enough to satisfy the most whimsical taste,
we presume they will be popular occord-
ingly. The fanchOn, whichheld its ground
tenaciously during the summer, Is, like the
summer, passing away and giving place to
the"empire," the 'Josephine," the "gypsy,"
and outre looking, nondescripts, formed by
curious combinations of these three prin-
cipal varieties of the new style. 40.
Crowns have come in again, but notso the
capes; these are replaced by a straight, un-
graceful band, which seems rather pro-
longation of the crown than cape. The
crowns are generally stiff and fiat; but soft
crowns have also made their appearance;
but these, instead of dropping as formerly,
rise above the level of the brim in full,
erect puffs. The front is close and round,
resembling the old cottagein shape but not
In size. The trimming Is confined almost
exclusively to the top of the bonnet, and
affects erect stateliness rather than careless
grace; and it must be confessed there is
something very striking and attractive in
its elegant though unyielding formality.
This style of trimming is in such strong
contrast with the pendent sprays, floating
ribbons and dropping feathers of the last
season, that 1t is quite a relief to the eyes,
fatigued with endless repetition of the one
idea. Flowers berries, sprays and grasses
enter into the trimmings. and gold, In every
form, from delicate chainwork, glitterlng
fringe and tiny coin to FURNISHED butterflies
with outspread wings, lends its own peculiar
lustre. Lace is also much used in trimming
and ostrich and marabout feathers are fire.
quently seen enhancing the beauty and
adding to the elegance OF the tout ensemble.
The materials are royal and uncut velvet,
chip and silk, plain and embossed. Wells
of tull and chantlly are attached to the lett
side of the bonnet, imparting to 1t an airy
grace and costly elegance that add WONDER
fully to its attractions. -.,sg .-,.
The turbans and round hats are still
worn, and some very pretty novelties In
this style have made their appearance at
the opening. Prominent among these is
the "Madeline," composed of black velvet,
the fulled crown confined by band of
crimson velvet running down the center.
A fanchon OF black velvet, relieved with
streamers OF black and crimson, tails over
the waterfall, half hiding and half reveal
ing the glittering net in which the mass OF
tresses are securely coiled. By the way, II,
as the poet says, ....... n
! Beauty draws us with single hair,
what must be the effect of waterfalls?
T Notwithstanding the marked changes in
the bonnet, ID still continues very small; the
front, in fact, is buta nominal affair, a toun-
dation on which to arrange trimming
"only that and nothing more" AS to its
being shade for the face or Offering any
protection from the weather, that is absurd,
an old-fashioned idea-sO old-fashioned, in
deed, that it is about timefor it to come up
/ again as the latest fashion,, The crown and
band look like providing against the win
ter, and better still, they look like dispens-
ing with the waterfall, which isa thing to
rejoice at; for the artificial excresence and
manufactured deformity has had its day and
more than its day, and we would be glad
to see the shape of the head once more.
AS for. colors, it would be impossible to
say which is the most fashionable. Green
is in high favor, and white for opera and
full dress is in great demand. Promenade
hats are graver, but very elegant and styl-
ish and richly trimmed, ..7..,.....
In, this department there is not anything
very new to chronicle. All the light ele-
CANT, tlimsy fabrics of The summer have
disappeared with, the equinox, and are re-
placed by those heavy materials and warm
colors chat f0rInOso pleasant contrast to
the fading leaves of autumn. Moire an
tiques, rich silks, poplins, alpacas, empress
cloth, reps and the endless variety of goods
for winter wear strew the counters of Stew
arts, Lord & Taylor's, and all the fashion,
able establishments where our New York
ladies delight to spend their time and their
money. go, ''''"
Plain silks, are always elegant, and
| stripes and small brocaded patterns very
| desirable. Changeable silks are still to be
| seen, though not so fashionable as formerly.
| Dresses en- suite-that is, the dress, under
skirt and basque of the same color and ma
terial-are the newest style and the highest
fashion just now. -.
Extravaganza is still the order of the
day, and asserts its sway now over magnif-
cent silks as it did over the airy nothings OF
summer. 1t has simply changed its base OF
| operations, and gained in the heavy goods
| Of the approaching season firmer field for
| display. The trimmings are diverse, COM
| plicated and profuse, sometimes in good
taste, but more often in direct opposition
to it. They consist of velvet ribbon, lace
silk fringe braid and the latest novelty,
gold and silver cord. Cord is also used OF
other colors to match the dress, where golu
cord Is not desirable or suitable. BY the
way, gold enters very much into trimmings
OF, all kinds this season. 1t mingles with,
| flowers in the bonnets, it bangles from the
wells, it glitters among the embroidery, and
even in rich collars of point lace we see it
| shining. a"A et p@
Sashes are very popular, and form avery
important item of trimming. Those wide,
ungainly belts that no lady could wear with
impunity, have disappeared, and in their
stead we have belts of a moderate width,
fastened with claspsor buckles.
THE CoRsAGE.
There are so many ways, of making the
corsage that all tastes, however diverse, are
sure Of finding some styles to suit them!
Pointed waists are still IN fashion, with one
or more points at front, back, or over the
sides. The round waist Is again working
| its way into favor, and the "BoleroD and
| other jacket shapes hold their ground
| against all competition. Long coat tails
| are still worn; so also is the deep, square
| basque. Both styles are ungracefth, and II
/ good taste, and not fashion, were consulted,
| would not obtain more than anaephemeral
| popularity. But the present rage is for
| something striking, no matter what is sac
| rifced to obtain 1t, and that that end is at
tained must be conceded by oil. 7o ss-
| .,I -; ~, THE SLEEVE. ,foH
al In the hands of askillful n,oaiste this por-
ton of the dress gives character, and tone
| to the entire. Some dressmakers imagine
they have done everything that could be
desired when they make q handsome cor
sage and stylish sleeves, each unexception-
able in itself but no more suited to each
| other than Tuscan capital Oh q Corinthian
column. 1t is q mistake, however, which q
true artist will never commit, for sherecog-
nizes the fact, that. perfection. in the details
| never makes up for want OF unity and har-