The Indianapolis daily herald. [volume] (Indianapolis, Ind.) 1865-1868, 1865-11-02
MODERN DIX fcss.


tfSm The LSIdon keyies.
=. There are certain questions CT modern reloI "a
which are, from time to time. brought before The
public, discussed with more or less ability. and
having afforded ample scope ior ingenious sug-
gestlons, are again allowed 10 drop into oblivion
Ii Is the fate of our national costume-or rather
iet us say OF European costume (lor il contains
but little element of Atty to be treated
IN this manner. Male attire In this country i
not only unbecoming. but frequently inconveni-
cot, and IN some respects unhealthy 10 the wearer
But an English wOmans dress promises TO add
10 these three unfortunate qualities 4 fourth
witch We will leave the ultra moralist 10 define
NJ Dupn has just published pamphlet ION the
Unbridled Luxury Of Women" ID. 10 q country
where fashion holds her sternest sway, the extra
vagance or Partisan bellies has attracted the at
tention OF the State let Us hope that some per
son will follow on this side OF the channel: for
whatever value may set on the taste Of
French miliiner, there are higher considerations
than the cut OF dress or the shape OF bonnet.
which We would be sorry TO see our wives and
daughters l0se sight Of Ii is, however much
easier TO censure the follies of the modern dress
than TO propose remedy for them, OF even TO
assign q cause for their existence Take
for example. that often and Justly abused
laventon-crinoline. Under the names OF
hoops and farthngae. it was twice in vogue
ia this country before it was revived for third
time IN 1891 We have abundant proof that it
was both ridiculed and seriously condemned by
our ancestors. Yet, neither satire or sermons
seems 10 have affected its use All that we
know is the fact that women wore it as long as il
pleased them, and left il off when il ceased 10 do
so. But the cid hoop. it will be urged, seemed
appropriate to the costume which ACCOMPANIED
70; Is went well with patches, high heeled shoes
and powdered hair. Besides IL was 4 more honest
and less complicated affair than the present one
AM No trAt
was less danger 10 apprehend from fire But is
1t probable that these reasons, or any similar
reasons, insured a popularity for The hoop or
farthingale which the crinoline will not command 7
IL IL not a fact that, in spite OF many petty in
conveniences which il occasons-n spite OF its
being utterly unsuitable to the rest OF lady's
toiiette-in spite OF the charges of ndelicacy and
exrayagance which have besn SO frequently
brought against tin spite OF the terrible and
catmely deaths which have ensued from its use.
this wretched Invention still continues in full
fayor with women. alter eight years trial in this
boasted nineteenth century,
Take another instance-ghe modern gentle
mans hat, OF which the beaver prototype was in
roduced here about the time OF the French rev
olution. Could anything more ugly, more
iucommodicus. more unhealthy. more generally
Objectionable, be devised as a covering Tor the
headI Yet, so lar from its use being discontinued
as vas thought probable during the year of the
hrst Great Exhibition, no part of man 5 dress
appears to be further removed from all chances
OF Improvement than this. No one who values
a petition in society-no one who cares for the
public recognitian OF his friends-yould venture
10 wear any substitute for il in the streets of
London Men go on enduring this evil with
aching brows-just as women 90 on enduring
another sort of martyrdom-simply for the
sake OF appearances, and because, as civilized
LIE Is now constituted, slngularity OF dress would
CO considered, in nine cases out OF ten a vulgar
aiiectatoD fH nfm~r
Hopeless a reform seems to be- as far a. Lat
aud hoops are concerned, IL IS satisfactory 10
think that some slight Improvements in dress
have been made during the latter half of the
Fcsent century. Ii the exhibition of 1851 has
hotthe effect OF exter minating the 'chimn ey
pos. ~ brought over thousands of foreigners who
had long eschewed the use of the razor. Eng
lshmen began 10 ask themselves whether the
prejudice against boards, which had exste in
the days OF The great unwashed our forefa-
thers-should be allowed TO extend to our own
time, when every gentleman takes his morning
bath. Was il not absurd that We should con-
tinue day by day, with no little pains and incor-
venienee. to rasp our faces for the purpose of
removing an appendage which nature had given
AZ Tor use Il not Tor ornamenli The "beard
movement rauidly became popular-the
sswspapers took up the cause, and said
what they could IN its favor. In the course of a
fsW years, clean shaved man became the ex-
eepton IN crowd. Thenceiorth the hideous
and uncomfortable rateT-HiOydea-the stand-un
collars, which had for more than a quarter OF =
century prevented Us from freely turning our heads
ID the night or left, were banished from Young
Englsnds wardrobe. An unpleasant reason has
been assigned for the origin OF the modern stock
Is was whispered ths, late monarch syarthed
up his neck in folds of silk or cambria to conceal
snaturai blemish. and that polite cour, fol- |
lowed the royal example. Be that as il nav. no !
precedent tos the fashion continued 10 exist save
that which might be found in the dress OF a few
cid fogies and antquated club loungers. Even
the thick silk handkerchief. which succeeded to |
ne stock. gave place st last 10 that light and /
comfortable he or scarf which is now almost uri- |
versally used with a turn down collar.
But the progress OF reform did not stop here.
ellington boots were. after all only modif
cation OF the old "Hessian type, which. how
ever convenient when pantaloons were worn be
came unnecessary under the folds of The modern
trousers. Accordingly. the ankle boot was
adopted. At first il was fastened with buttons.
sud this led 10 the invention of the button hook
An article which vas perpeIually being mislad
and winch generally tore out more buttons than /
IL helped 10 fasten. But The later manufacture
OF Balmorals." Tor. country wear and the side
spring. Tor ordinary use. LETT nothing TO be de
sired 10 this spect IL IS hardly Necessary IN
encmerste the various notifications which have
helped 70 improve modern gentleman's dres.
Aoss OF Us recolleot the old coat-eollar whirh
used 90 rise from the shoulders OF the wearer in
apadced roll until il touched TIE back of the
head That ungHinly feature hA- long since re
sumedits proper place and proportions The
salsteoat now terminates not Ss formerly across
the widess part OF the chest, bn, Al the wal,
tysn sleeves and sroEssrs. The most uscomoro-.I
nslsng sstAils Al man aiiire have al lase Seeu