The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1864-10-10

any voice at all IN any mater Wuatc Cr All
! they bad ~ do vas TO nestle IN too suallvo'
! their mammals drApcry, look pfCtty, blush whom
! they we're spoken 70, aud eat % r. clsJlfd md
COnscfvcs Than was .Oi for thsm Aftf roHeo
and cigars ho'e WIS perhlpsu littn card playing,
aud fhen you wen' % thc opera or tl tbSlre, or
looked in az the Gcscllscuafs Haas behind the
Exchange, or otherwise di ported yJlrsslt uattl
Il was time 80 retire ID r,st pesg zen twl c5lshe,
beds covered win quil,d green s'ik.
mad sump.uous saloon OF A bedroom, all
pla,c.e'ass md erin on silk hl7gingH on ,he
second l'o.r. overlooking the -r,r, wni'h r-rvtl
alike for sutiug room dDI sleeping a5i-tmnnt.
and tny which ! paid only tsO thA''rs, Or six
sbillnes English (lho pr1's may hy1 boeI
rsisrd, II thc rgd'np'ed British Invasion hs
set iul, q day. Nuu might inlg'uo thIt With
this luxurious accommodation, GOOD virtunlliuy,
Rhine vines nud assiuOus and civil attsnllus,
7 WAS as happy as the dsy was iong and soon
iound reason TO put down tao NJ IA OF the
world, when he snid tHt 7 shpulin's IKE
Berlin, as an 0uabiNOus hbclCr. Ths mgat
nue,d, ard very presumably would have been
the case, had I never Stirred trom thc Il ,tel
DE hussiei and mere ave worse things to do,
Wueh you get ihtp % really co IrttDlO JOrcisu
caravauserti, than making up your mind not 20
bulge from its precincts during your stay iu 70
city 10 which you don't know anybody, not
even y our Am a,sador, and are, therefore, not
Tx, ly 10 he presented nc COurti but | An Of
wandering temperament, aud soon grow sired OF
immobiIty, however comfortable il may be.
DO not poss IS the patient oquanimi-y of u friend
VUlga, where they were famous for trout,
declared that he meant 70 stav thero until ali
the trout In the river were caught, and he hal
eaten them, or until tbe world cracked. I wan.
TO move about, and sec what Is going on; aud
although nv condition at the Russie might have
been as sensualy fclictous rs that Of stalled OK
l speedily began to Chate au1 fret at having
nothing to grumblc at, ana SO took 40 my SCRIP
and my stan aud began % roam ab but Berlin.
An hours IerambuluiUu h I'd not been aeon
pished, before | admitted in a grimly snturniue
spirit of disCoueutcd satisfaction, that tue Ma
OF the World was right. 1 dtdu't like Berlin
Nobody does, l should imagine; not even tue
BeriiUers. ] am sure the king aud royal family
are not affected towards iJ; for whenever tney
have decent excuse they are Off 70 Potsdan or
CharlotteubuTg.
/ The capital OF the kingdom of Prussia IS doubt
| less a very large aud eXtcri1dy imposing city,
| and has an extensive aud constantly iucrr tsing
I population. | am not statistically minded, aud
/ therefore wou't trouble son vii figures to show
! how many hundred thousands under a million
the said population may be Bt1ig c'est tR L7tL Il
is the dullcst, dngiest hole that mortal man ever
put his foot into. II is city that has Deen built
to order; that looks a, though 10 had been run up
by contract; aud that, no withstandng It's ne ~
ness, has an appearance OF having run hOpelcs5ly
/ 20 seed as though there had been n difficulty In
I finding solvent tenants r all the grand mansions.
| In the uCighbOrhOOd of the Cd palace there are
two three tOrtuOus streets Of resp ectaple anti
. guilty. dating, perhaps, from tho middle OF the
kcvCnteonih century but everywhere else the city
Is laid out IN ktfte6 OF HgOnlElug length ana de-
/ plOTablc feCtAnEulHrty. Do you remcmber what
/ the invcterale Jester, Sidney Smith, said on his
/ doath-beu "There's au end 20 everything" no
murmuTed, "CXcept WtmpOle street." Cover
street or Albany street would, 10 my min 4, b5
more expressive of never enuing, still beginning
] bricks inI WOrtar; but the diuIug-1uJ canon Of
81. Paups was, pGTchunce, TOO aris'oJrtic "a,
know where such humble thoruugntares as GOvJP
/ street aud Albany street were situated. Well,
every street in Berlin seems about four times the
length Of Wimpole street, Ou is not n tithe so
clean. The pavement is of a nuDhy, crumblng,
yet angular iucgulrity, as though the side
walks had been stTewu with mtormingled hiuts
and kidney potatoes in an advanced stage
of decomposition; pliO ene detri'us be-
/ Il nglng TO an unascertatned epOch, but
productive of unimaginabo anguish TO tho
ter der. toed. The cutters are gushing with
swiit.rOllng muutudinOIs ua.tiuGssrs. In wet
weather every roadway Is dead sea Ofmud but
n a RUE, prefer the O.st period 20 the desc
Gated One-aJ least ia Berlin. l believe the city
/ is built in the midst of u plan ofsanl. At ali
| events, whenever II Is not pouring cats and dogs
every street Is Sahara sert OF DRY, hot ChO &.
/ ing dust, which powders yuur clothes which
/ gets down your ihrOat, which criCl(s your 1ps,
eNcOriatcs your mucous membrane, bllScs yOr
. tOHRLc, Iritaes your tpn,il-, aud insIuu tic,
tstf into yOur ears, nGsuil,, md ewes. L lGrs Is
no shade in Berlin, except UnteT den Linden.
/ There are few cafes, except Uuter den LudGu;
you must go under the limc-trees 10 ti1d any
thing tolerable in tho way Of cOnieidOn'r's or
pCIfumer's, or n habcrd shgr'', orag gJvo.shpp;
III latt lnC FTcuCnmAu, WIZ ms usual client Tor
generallz ng is not so quarrel C VITA In SGulg
down Unter den l. nden IS In RE de Bs"liR."
The worst part of tue city is, 10 me, its OdOr.
My otactory nerves are not more fine strung,
] should think, than those Ot other people. /
have visited "a good many streets of the world
on the Continent, aud in England, France, aud
TelHud-rrdUlent OF anything hut sweet tvOrs.
There are closes IN Edinburgh and Gla,gpg th It
are not precisely scented like tho fabulous
Araby the Bile The As,eT Basin aG Hamburg,
albeit the town itself is clean, is not quite rs
nice 10 the nose as rndtgye DE toilette. COustin.
tinople has It's stenCues; 50 has Madrid; so has
Genoa; so has Bethnal Green. But Genius
of Sanitary Improvements, defend me from
Bcrlnl II is not so much In the look Of the
place. The houses are tall and severely
cass siCal. The streets are broad, Gs well as
long. There are plenty Of open places. But, 20
whithersOeyer he will, the traveller is haunted
and pursued by an inconceivabe (until cXpe-
rienctd) musty, fuSty, sour, sickly smell. l ar
once confess 10 o. be indescrib Ible but you may
arrive al q faint Qiteray faint, aud well nigh
u fauting) notion offs nature if you will imagine
an amalRam Of old clothes and linen Just come
home from careless washerwOman with no dry.
iug ground; OF stale cabbage-sOup, and yeser
days beer and the day before yesterdays to-
bacCO; of Leather Lane fsh-market, and a work.
house day-room; of a ragged school, and a
secOnd.rato news. / suppose the Berliners are
fond of this deadly perfume. and think il schrsck-
hcb SchOn. know that they grow very angry II
you atlude to 1t in any terms even remotely ap-
proaching the uncomplimentary. A conceited
city nor the smell thereof.
/ The result Of an expedition. either on pleasure
or on business, into the interior of this pe,ti-
ferrous capital invariably is that yOu are driven
/ Utter den Linden for mouthful Of fresh air /
won't deny that this famous walk may well lay
claim TO be considered one of the h lndsomest
promenades in Europe. lt is, however, neither
so lengthy nor 50 pretty ms the avenue eadiug
/ through the Champs Eiys at Paris from the
| Place de la Concorde to the Arc de- rEtOile; but
It surpasses that wOrd-renOwned road IN ths fact
that II is planted with stately and hrOai-iOliaged
lime-trces IN lieu Of stumpy pOpars and etiolaJcd
ash, and that 1t is bOrdered by verv sllCndid
mansions very many Ofthem real palaces and not
with mean little shops, bOUyaucg and gqr-
gOteS. Shops indeed there are Unrer den
Lnden, but these are among the best
provided and most fashionable in Berlin
and they arc mtersper,ed with tower
ing hotels, the principal foreign embassies
the chief governmental bureaus, and churches
theatres, and museums in abundance The mag
nihcent equestrian monument 20 Frederick the
Great Is the principal attraction at the southern
extremity Of the Linden. and the Arch of Tri-
umph leading TO the Thiergarten with Krolr5
pretty theatre and gerdcu-nOt SO pretty, how
ever, as CremOrne-of the other. Then there Is
the new Royal Palace, at one OF whose easements,
/ am told, at present you may see the drill-sur-
geant King OF Prussia, digging and Shaving, like
q clerk at a counting house desk, through returns
and parliamentary papers. When first iied
under the Linden, however, there was no Eing 10