The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1864-07-18
AN OLD CHAPTER IN ENGLISH
COOKERY.

Some wears since when a discussion arose in
the newspapers on the art of giving dinners, II
struck us as a rather singular circumstance that
none OF the disputauts recommended reference
10 the drcaHd of cookery during the luxurious
dinncr-times of bygone ages, TO supply them
with some hint which would throw iitle variety
into the sttreotyped urappet2edness OF modern
bauontts. History furnishes us with no end Of
,ennissahceS. There has been renaissance or
sculpture, renaissance Of architecture, renalS-
saace of painting, and Of art in each OF its differ
cut branches why not, then, renaissance III the
art Of cooking and feeding?
But a trc word renaissance means in itself the
re-CXistence of something which has already
Aourishcd in perfection, We must guard against
mi,couCeption by limiting the area 10 Whlch the
habitral dinerout and the dyspeptic gastronome,
who Sc digestion reNoits at such plcOeiau coarse
ness as the roast and boiled beef and mutton OF
the present day, should have ecourse for relief
We have no iGea of sending them either % the
records of the gluttOnOus te6sts OF the Roman
Empire where The tongues of canary birds. and
the rccs Of lamUreys tatteucd ON human flesh,
mini.iegCd 10 the cravings OF diseased appetltes.
By no means! We would invite them 70 try
nearer home mandy, 10 the times i'm our own
country when hospitality was dispensed on the
rrI 81 scale and when the ART Of the table was
| cultivated luVmiuusly, but not gluttonously.
| II uu net on PmlaWCnf were TO bc passed now,
rCstrenmg thg rich from giving dinners when
were too luXuliOug, we might turly assume
| that q considerable number Of the dishes in
| vogue a. suCh bgnQucts must be uneommoulY
| good 20 Duf. 1NI ~ iNt lllAIlN lbN'lh Nt"l vi
| Henry III such an act was actually passed
| with rle result, 10 Is true, bnt thc fact ls the
| gBmC--aud it is consequently 10 the c)oEcry oi
| the succeeding six rc'gus when the BLACK lrinro
| fcastcd bis royal prisoner John ll-tne aeys th''
| followed upon Crecy, POictiers, aud Ag,ucourt-
| tlC days Of CHANGER, aud of sir John tlstAu- r.
that We counsel our biagp diner our, and our de-
! spoudlutdy dyspCphc, 70 ily for consolation.
| with This view we Gull q few flowers from thC
cookery pmden of that period, promising tha
though they are necessarily but few, they viii
give an ins ght into the subject as interesting t
the arChUOlogist as 10 him whose palate is NOR
nearly interested 10 so momenlous an inquiry
First here is q famous Old English dish eater
with great gusto during the reigns OF the thte
| Edwards aud of the second Richard, both "
name and receipt for which is remembered oar
by ant.quor,cs. II was called "CoEasrys' ava
! the following rs tho way In which II vas made T.
"1ake au Old cock and pluck hlm, ana SKI
him all bus the legs, aud I'LL him full otthe sam
stuhing (this probably refers 10 one given M
recipe just preceding, which we VII Ge,crlpe IN Ia
| momCub; 'alsO take pig ana SKIN nun llol
the middle downwards, ana ill him all inIl
the same stuiling, and sew them fast together an
I | boil then" a.. q Che cock and The pig); ian
| when they shall have boiled good wEile tal
chem up, ana do them ON spit Gld roast the
s5el and take yOiks Of eggs, and add there
1 eaGr0n. and bastc them Wifh herewith; an
when they are roasted, dish them Up, ana ga
pisl thCm with gold and silver foil" The 8tu
ing 10 be used for this notable dish consisted
| pigs liver minced small, with pepper, powdegt
, | cloves, cinnamon, and currants, which might
| used Ia it, then state, or made into iorcene
| balls (by the aid of whites OF eggs) and foa'te
| Now, We ask, is no one pauiouc emo lga 20 esai
r his dsl IL only 70 see how the pig and the 90,
, lool, WHOM served up together according to q
ior going directions
5. Another curious dish of about the same perio
2 equally tantalizing, deserves menaon lt
y called "BaloyG" and is made thus -''I Ia
} SWINGS flesh, Doil it and chop IL small, ana p
b thereto yolks Of eggs, ana mis- it well togethe
y and make it right 'soople,'" g. c., easy 20 sti
= "and put thereto o liirle minced lard, and grat(