The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1864-09-23

tTaordinary Innovations have been introduced
into garments for outside wear while in dress and
ornamental fabrics mlHy quite new and elegtn.
designs and combinations have made their ap-
pearance for the first time in this country.
Prices, Of course rule high, but this is to be
expected in "war times, and as labor is plenty
vRgos good, and business active, few object 70 the
advanced rates. Bounets which were formerly
sold for ten dollars are now sold for thirty, bu
this seemed TO make little difference 10 the crowd
which, as usual attended the semi annual cNhi
bition. Possibly fewer bonnets were sold. but
certainly a much larger quantity Of materials
were purchased. Many ladies seeking to eCOuO-
mize by exercising their ingenuity aud taste in
, the making up Of their own head-gcar.
II has been question of some interest whether
the Partisan innovation Of a bonnet without
curtain would be adopted by our modiSes and
yesterday it az least partially decided in the
affirmative. More than half the bonnets on evhi-
bition we're without cape, and when any aJ all
was employed II was simple trill of lace, and so
small as to be hardly visible.
A first thought, this would seem to he cX-
trtmely unbecoming, but it is not so. Skill and
taste can overcome many difficulties, and they
have certainly succeeded in overcoming the OBJ
stacles TO the production Of pretty bonnet with.
out curtain, and in arranging it 50 that the cur
tain is not missed.
The size of the bonnets extremely a la mode
is scarcely larger than thosp which preceded the
famous "coal scuttles; :" the brim is small, and
entirely divested of its "scoop;" and the crown
eOft and low the trimming, which consists of
lace, loops, and cords of velvet, or ribbon, and
velvet flowers falling over or hanging pendant
from it. Few plumes are used on account of
their enormous price, but on this very account
they possess the more claim TO distinction.
THE PRETTIEsT BoNNRrs.
A fine quality Of real Lyons bonnet velvet
costs this season from twenty to twenty-five
dollars per yars so Of course there is not much
Of it used in making up the ordinary styles, not
even those which cost from twenty 10 thirty
nrpu ma do nf
which is inferior, but looks extremely we'll and
often does duty for real Lyons The best estab-
lshments do not lend themselves to such imposi-
ton. We proceed now TO describe a few of the
A very distinguished bonnet was of black
Lyons velvet with a soft crown of black spotted
tulle, and no curtain. over the crown was placed
fenchon of velvet with gore of purple satin in
the cenlre surrounded by an edge of black
thread lace A band of purple satin covered with
band of rich black thread lace crossed the top
of the crown, holding down the fanchion, and
constituting with purple loops and ends behind,
and malmaison rose, with purple velvet leaves
inside, the only trimming
Another had a soft crown of rich black velvet
and transparent front, covered with two futings
ofwhite colOred silk. The curtain consisted of a
simple row of white blonde, held in on one side
by a large pink rose, in its leaves; a rose in
leaves in the cap, high up on the opposite side,
side pink silk strings, notched out, and broad
barbe ends OF black lace, falling over the cr9wn,
completed the trimming.
We noticed charming bonnet ofrich Mexican
blue velvet, pulled lengthwise upon the toundl-
ton, and Ornamented with large rosette OF black
and white lace, and short white ostrich plume.
A narrow curtain Of blonde, and crushed rose,
with blue velvet leaves In the blonde cap, com
pltted this graceful bonnet to which description
cannot do justice.
Another was of black Lyons velvet, with q
white silk cord placed an inch from the edge OF
the plain brim. Soft full crown of white satin,
edeed with narrow black lace, and caught down
in the centre with black pendant balls. cluster
of roses was placed in an opening on one side of
the crown. Roses also on the inside of the brm
Still another was very striking. The brim OF
black velvet, with crown composed OF rather
wide bands of scarlet velvet embroidered with
let beads, forming a Greek cross, over a star of
rich white blonde. Long ends of black ribbon,
with scarlet corded edge, dropped below the
crown.
At the rooms of distinguished artistic we
noticed very beautiful evening bonnet of white
royal velvet, with crown composed of two falls
OF the richest blonde, mingled with long loops
and ends OF blue velvet, over puiiings of tule.
white lace turned over the edge, a white rose
with blue leaves in the blonde cap, and large
white rose laid down near the crown, are the only
other ornaments
A reception bonnet was of velvet, of the new
shade called "violine." The small brim was
plain, with the exception of one white and two
purple crysantheums on the inside. The crown
was composed of crOss-Dands of velvet, edged
with black lace over soft crown of silk Of the
same shade. These bands terminated in long
ends, edged with lace, which hung over the cur
tain. Very wide silk strings notched out on the
edge.
Among the head-dresses we noticed one of red
grapes and autumn leaves, mounted on gold /;
an ther of white japoniCas upon scarlet velvet,
and athrd of exquisite feUr de Us upon blue
velvet. Fie'T de hs are also mingled with the
orange blossoms in the bridal garnitures of this
establishment, fashion introduced by the Prince
of Wales, and now the rage in Paris. We had
almost forgotten most striking orniment for
the hair, composed of lilies and dew-drops, droop-
ing ribbon grass, and long ropes of scarlet chs
hie, studded thick with mountain ash berries
and crossed half down with a pond lily in its
leaves. IL was very novel, and with a bouquet
TO mach, would cost $50.
Head-dTesses and garnitures are made almost
exclusively of flowers, which are very beautiful
this season. The full cluster is still worn high up
on lhe side Of the head, over the forehead, the
wreath only extending down one side, and termi-
mating in branches, which descend upon the neck
and shoulders.
Garntures for the dress are worn as a chape-
lane, 10 loop up the upper skirt, and as an order
across the breast fastening upon the left shoulder
Roses are principally worn, but iapOnicas are,
perhaps. more elegant, and heur de lis is the
latest floral fantasy known.
But 10 return for an instant TO bounets. White
uncnt velvet is very much in yoguefor evening
and carriage bOnnets, aud is most admired when
accompanied by n soft falling crown of black
lace, plume OF white, and black ostrich feathers.
Roses on the inside.
Corded silk trimmed with velvet, and velvet
flowers of the same shade, and felt ornamented
with velvet and short peacock feathers will be
, worn extensively aud make very neat, service
able, and ladylike bonnes.
Round hats OF telt trimmed with velvet, brims
turned up In front and Umameuted with a Short
standing pheasant plume, arc almost universally
adopted by young ladies.
CLoAKs AMI NANTIEs.
Winter cloaks lave hardly as vet made their
appearance, but t is already understood that the
tight fitting paCtot, with OF without cape, will
be one OF the most prominent styles Round
ClOaEs are also in vogue, made in velvet beaver
or plush, and trimmed in The first instance with
hat braids and hanging buttons, and in the
second with heavy chenille fringe.
. In Lighter cloths they are made with two or
three capes, handsomely trimmed with silk
stitched on with a sewingmaChine or with fiat
bIaids pat on in hraidiug patterns.
Beautiful Fall ClOal,s are made in heavy black
ribbed silk, which will be very fashionable during
the autumn. These cloalls are termed coats, and
are a sort Of compromise with She garment Of that
name which has appeared in Paris. Tney are
,roiiade with yeyc}S, and two wide basques, which
gradually decrease in size, and are cut square at
the bottem. The trimming is either fringe with
beading, or paSSjBicatelie with hanging silk
buttons The cOat-seeYe has an epauette and
Cuii trimmed % match
The most distinguished coats are made in black
l9ons velvet, and this magnificent fabric will
also constitute the most elegant winter clOaks of