The Portland daily press., 1864-03-29
Tuesday Morning, March 20, 1864.
Fashions for April.--Bonnets.

II ever season was invented which was
doubtful, uncertain, fitfnl, moody, capricious,-
and generally wearisome, IT is an American
spring.
April, deceitful thing sometimes comes
in all warmth and smiles. We throw aside
our heavy cloaks. put our furs in camphor,
sport new straws with plaid trimmings, and
are assured that the spring we read about
has como at last. Vain hopel Some fine
morning upon which we had planned to gar
den with pair of old leather gloves laid out
for the express purpose we arise TO find foot
of snow upon the ground and the general
aspect out of doors more wintry and forbid
ding than the wintriest day of February.
s'But what has all this to do with fashions ?"
asks some impatient lady reader, who is dy-
ing to know all about the new spring bon
nets. Much, very much my dear madam
In the first place, we have no spring fashions
proper. They are all deusion and a snare,
mere trap, set by milllners and cloak-mak-
ers to catch unwary birds. How can we
have spring fashions when winter regularly
Ringers long enough to almost snow ball
June, and is frequently immediately succeed
ed by weather which seems to have been i'm
ported from the tropics? OF course, velvet
and furs have to be supp!anted at once by
transparent grenadine and gossmer muslin.
Thus it is with dresses, bonnets, aud rib
bons. One may be deluded once into putting
on III April Il uellcatB SOiOf6u spring UieSS
and hat. The morning is warm, the sky Is
clear, the sun is shining; it is a temptation to
take a promenade. Two hours afterward the
sky becomes overcast, the wind blows cold, a
few drops of rain fail, and promenader hur-
ries home thoroughly chilled, intensely dis
gusted, and quite determined not to put her
cloak and winter bonnet away again in April
under any circumstances whatever. There
are plenty OF fashions for April, however, iii
after this warning, any lady chooses to avail
herself Of them; and, as faithful chroniclers'
we will proceed, alter this preface, to describe
them.
As the latter part of March generally wit
nesses the millinery opening, of course bon
nets are the first consideration, this event be-
ing supposed to decide the styles iE the en-
suing season. That it does TO a certain ex-
tent is undoubtedly true, but il certainly does
not among those who are considered authori-
ties in the world OF fashion. The public miln-
cry opening is not now what it once was il is
no longer recognized by first-class artists, aud
is only attended by milliners from the country,
the trade in town, and that numerous class IF
poor proud women and girls who want to
steal an idea from which they can make their
own bonnets, or raise little pocket-money
by making one on the sly for some less cley
er acquaintance.
The prominent characteristic of the mass of
spring bonnets, as seen in the show rooms of
the ordinary establishments, will be found
very much that of last season-high top, with
trimming piled upon it to increase its Alpine
dimensions: this is very different from the gem
tie depression over the forehead and closely
fitting sides which mark the latest and most
becoming designs. The really elegant bon
nets are also noticed as being models of sim
plicity, while Others seem to have been intend
ed for horticultural shows, from the profusion
with which they mingle fruit and flowers in
am I'M iSpr IN TO mae Of
Tie fashionable bonnet of the season is
very pretty and distiHgae. 1t is nearly al
ways uniform in color, with only just enough
of contrast to relieve the monotony A con-
trast of the entire trimming with the body
part Of the bonnet Is certainly allowed, and
even authorized by every distinguished taste;
but even in such cases no mixture but the two
eolors is employed, plaid trimmings being the
only exception to this rule.
An exquisite bonnet Of "0pheia" Grape is
ornamented with soft, branching plume OF
precisely the same shade, the lower stem of
which droops down to the shoulder. A
shower Of crystal falling over ruche of rich
blonde, and a cluster of red pomegranate
blossoms, completed the face trimming un-
less the wide scarf of blonde tied under the
chin belongs ia the same category.
Another charming bonnet is of pale blue
Grape, ornamented with a monture of blue
forget-me-nots and wild roses, tied with long,
slender blonde barbes, which floated over the
soft, graceful crown, and even below the
curtain. This also had blonde brides to tie
over wide strings Of tgfetds.
A white Neapolitan bonnet, fine as lace,
was embroidered with all the artistic effect of
French needle-work In delicate crystal. The
cape was of Mexican blue velvet, covered
with blonde in she'll pattern; and the face
trimmings a shell of blue velvet and blonde,
large, lovely pink rose, from which bee
was sucking the sweets aud an aigrette of
spun glass.
Black crinoline and black straw are in great
vogue for asefd bonnets. They are very
simple and becomingly trimmed with blue and
grSen tartan, with pretty aigrette in front
OF aeld grass and blue daisies.
Bonnets of grey straw and small black and
white checked silk with soft (cap) crowns !,
are most in favor for travelling purposes.
The trimming Is simply q large cluster of mar
now ribbon bows with ends, placed near the
top, or high ON the side of the crown. Gray
straw bonnets trimmed in this way have cap
crowns in check or plaid to match the bows
and curtain.
OF round hats there is not at present much
TO be said the styles will not be determined
until later in the season. From present in
dications, however, we should Judge that the
size would be decidedly smaller, the crowns
lower, and the brims very narrow and cured
AT the side.
pretty design for young lady is of rice
straw, trimmed with scarf of black velvet
which terminates in wide, long ends, cut
diagonally, and finished with elegant straw
ornaments A rich buckle. composed of hair
straw, and crystal, clasped in front a large
pompon made of high, straight loops Of beau
tiiully striped ribbon-gra
Straw trimmings, by the way are a great
feature of the seasons decorations. They are,
very beautiful, and quite as costly as rich lace
and imitation jewels. There are straw bor-
derings with pendent attachments, straw
bands for jockey hats with rich tassels-nar-
nor straw ribbon daintily ystriped-animmense
variety OF loops and clasps, and stats, and
curious ornaments of all kinds, with knobs,