The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1864-06-07
SELECT IONS.
wanted---An American soyer.

-duce for your delectation sumptuous repast.
But the cook who is not only an artist, but
man of genius, can do more than this; he can
resolve the debris of the market into delicious
fare. 1t was in this necromancy Of the cuisine
that Soyer excelled. lie could tickle the pal
ates of the poor at q cheap rate, as well as ex-
cite the blaze appetites of princely voluptua-
ries with costly banquets. Before his time it
was thought that epicurean enjoyment and
economy were incompatible. He showed the
world how to combine them. When a terri
BILE mortality - the result Of bad. cookery
prevailed in the allied army before Sebastopo
he took possession of the military kitchens,
and converted the coarse rations of the troops
into wholesome, palatable food. The doctors
had pronounced the camp epidemic beyond
their skill, but the great cook arrested 1t, and
restored the strength and stamina OF the ema-
ciated hosts. Vatel, Beauyillier, Careme, and
Ude were wonderful artists, but they exer-
cised their talents solely for the benefit OF the
privileged orders. They had no recipes for
the middle and laboring classes. Soyer, on
the other hand, was man of democratic in
stincts, who believed in the right of labor to
live well.
Wanted, therefore, an American Soyer. to
teach the American million how to turn cheap
edibles into good dinners. The time has gone
by when families in moderate circumstances
could afford to buy the choicest cuts in the
cannot be renewed in our day and generation,
If ever. The present war will saddle us and
our posterity with a national debt nearly
equal to that of England, land pension list OF
formidable dimensions, and rigid economy
will be matter ofnecessity here, as it is there
with that portion of tho community spon
which the dead weight of taxation, alter sun
dry shirkings and shiftings, Away ultimately
falls.
But although small tradesmen and journey
man mechanics can no longer breakfast on
porter-house steaks, and dine on sirioins and
lated capons, they might, with the aid of sci
entihc cookery, convert the coarser provis-
ions to which their altered circumstances re-
strict them into better dishes than they ever
ate in the pslmiest days of their prosperity.
The man who should teach them or rather
their wives and daughters - how to accom-
plish this object would be a great public ben
efactor. Soyer's Crimean recipes for soups
stews and hashes would be worth ten times
the price of any book extant to hundreds of
thousands Of American families They have
never been published, we believe, but there
are many scientific men in the United States
who, il they chose TO turn their attention to
the economics Of cookery, could give US re-
cepts equally valuable. Who will essay the
task? 1t would be labor of love, and, while
profitable to the people, would bring rich
pecuniary return 10 the laborer.
1t would amaze the uninitiated TO see what
can be done by thorough artist of the Soyer
school with the unconsidered fragments that
most of us look upon as the refuse Of the
butchers stalls. The piece of neck OF beef
which the butcher losses contemptuously into
the poor mans basket, and which, cooked in
the ordinary way, might defy the filed teeth
OF q Thug to penetrate IL, could be transform
ed by the magic of art into dish upon which
even an epicure would mot disdain to dine.
Take the other terminus OF the animal - its
caudal appendage. Most people suppose that
its use ceases with the life of the OK = that it
was intended solely to whisix away the Il les.
But those who have tasted ox-tail soup, prop
erly made, know that IL is richer and more
nourishing than mock turtle, and quite as de-
licious. 1t is q curious fact that, although
everything that was once considered waste
matter" by the manufacturer is now turned to
good account in one branch or other of the
mechanic arts, most of us regard with disgust
the c0arser dfyectd DlenlbrG of the shambles
under false impression that they are only fit
for dogs. The same nourishng juices that
pervade the lons of an OK circulate through
Its neck and its legs. The fibre is tougher
and there Is less fatty matter, that is all; aud
these are defects which scientific cookery can
in great degree remedy.
The almost universal method OF treating
tough meat is the worst that could possibly
or overbroiled. BY these means the nutri-
mental principle is first brsyed out of the ves-
sells that contained it, so as TO be easily eyoly-
ed by heat, and then driven BY the action of
q fierce fire up the chimney. What remains
is dyspeptic mass, little better than india
rubber.
1t is strange that we should have brought
the principles of animal chemistry to bear
upon the manuring OF land and the fattenine
OF stock, and yet have neglected to apply
them In our kitchens. American cookery as
general thing, contravenes all the conditions
laid down by Liebig as determining the com
parative nourishing qualities of meats and
vegetables. 1t is positive insult to philoso-
ply, as well as an outrage upon taste and d.
gestion. We want to see all this remedied.
and dietetics elevated to the level offs science
Our shirts aud our coats are cut by mathemat-
ical rules, and therefore they fit us; but we
have no rules (save false ones) in culinary
matters, and therefore our inner man is uni
formly and most shamefully misftted.
Wanted therefore, as We said before. an
American Soyer - or rather, as good cuis-
inier as he was, with more scientific knowl-
edge. viii not some one OF our leading
chemists step out Of the laboratory into the
kitchen, and taking q dexterous practical
cook as his aid, endeavor TO found culinary
system which shall combine sound philosophy
with tasteful art? Such one would deserve
well OF his country, aud we should be proud
to start subscription to erect statue In his
honor beside the bust of Schiller IN Central
Park. The printed results Of his jnyestjga-
tions, illustrated by recipes, would form the
most popular book of the age. 1t would be
well, however, that such a work should con-
tain directions for nationally dispos!ng of the
good things OF life. We require not only to
be taught how TO cook, but holp to cor. and II |
might be well TO preface this branch of the
subject with the remarks which Judge Hall |
burton puts into the mouth of Abernethy in
"The Clock maker" They are rather coarse.
but so pertinent that-we shall make no apollo
gy for quoting them. Mr.. Abernethy is snn-
posed TO be addressing adyspeptie American
who had applied to him for medical advice.
an be hanged" said he. ''if ever saw a Yaaeae |
that don't bolt down his food whole, like a boa con-
strietor: How ING aesii can you expees 10 digest
nor the time to mastcate TIA no wonder VIM
lose Your teeth, for you never them nor yonr
dlge.tion Tor You overload q nor your saliva Tor
you expend II on he carpets, instead OF on 9onr
food It's disgusting; it's beastly Yon yant -,
load your etomachs Devonsnire man 60 ~; L
est.i Y. tSl n can n9o ana as last as he can
Sou complain that such Iced OF eomaoe, 4. ~
heavy Tor yen, .Dyspspsy. eht Infesnal guiding
eat that You do TO dfaw out your words chew S 70
food hall as much a. you do your dlthy tobacco mud
you'll be well in month"; 1
II any savan on this side of the Atlantic |
wishes to benefit his country, and make n for /
tune at the same time, let him take our hint !
A celebrated homeopathic has asserted that |
the stomach is the seat OF the affections, and !.
III SO what popular idol would that man he
who should effect wholesome revolution In
American cookery and American masticAtion. |