The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1864-10-08
MERCHANTS, MoDIsrEs, AND
MILLINERS.
The Styles and Goods for the
Present Season.

u'tObcf IL the mOn'h IN which FASHION, var
quished by obstacles Of time. circumttiucps, aud
climate for 30 long, arises triumphant aud begins
to give forth her decrces. In June Fashion lays
her plans with a view TO the brill,nc,s OF the
watering places, the springs, and cxcursipn', far
and near In July she struggles on and hinyoly
flhts with the scOrchiag, enervatng enemies
which assail her in the form Of l03 degrees Of
heat. making 81 rs rustic in vsin, maDtjll4s be
cast nOm the shoulders wills bOnuets uge pushed
aside hcedless of the becoming.
Then comes August. during which she aopears
occasionally after some refreshing thunderstorm
In the cOolness ana freshness OF muslin and
grCnadine. But AZ las the dog Gays conuucr her
utterly and fairly exhausted she assnmc3 a
shaptl,ss wrapper, Tetires to a dark room, ani
thinks of nothing. September is n month OF
expectation, but October brings all things right
and here We are prepared 70 welcome Fashion in
all tie various forms she may desire to assume
First of all, tue bonnet, that has always beon
considered to form the most i'm portaut part of "A
lady's costume, as the helmet did OF che knghts
armor OF old. In fact, the boane is ii source o
profound anxiety to lady, and is one of the
most important items of expense in the domestic
budget The first temple of bOunets we enter i
that of Wood & Cary, in Chestnut street below
Eighth. 1t is the largest and most magnificent
store in the city, and visitors have every advan-
lsee Of space, large mirrors. and elegant sur
rOundings.
First of all, it must bo known that revolution
| has taken place In the shape Of bOnuct,. The
| high projecting roof that stood up in front has
been pulled down. The present front is shallow
| low, and sNure on the top, coming AZ tue sides
close TO the face. All the arc soft the stiff
round crown is obsolete. The frame is entirely
made in one, aud the cape has been done
away with entirely. We turn now to ono of the
tables, and on it we find charming little bonnet
in satin, of Carmelite color, the shade la Val
| GeTe loved.
l. is simply laid in folds, and has round It a
full putting of brown velvet. There is no trim.
ming, but the back il fniShed off with bl 'ck lace
and bows, and long euds of fribbOn, which grace
| fully take the place of the still cap9 of bygOno
| days. Laying down this bonnet we, take up an
other. Ii is in uncut or terry velvet, made all in
| one piece, plain round tue edge, and forming
| into box plaits naturally towards the middle OF
| the crown from surplus of stuff Hero these
plaits confined byH string of very large aGlS
| beads. The velvet IL loose at the back, ell ,ed
with black lace, and falling over a full crown OF
| white tulle Large bow Of ribbon, low dOwu
under the crown, supplies the place of the
cape. draO feather a. the side.
Inside OF this bonnet a bunch OF
orange, or rather Phmbus-ColoTed hDWcrs. This
| is new shade, called Phpbus, from its resen-
blance to the RAYS Of the sun. A magnificent
| opera or concert bonnet next arrested our are1-
| ton. lt was Of white uncut velvet; a crown of
| tue and real white blonde, the lace fas'ened by
| beautiful bouquet of rOsebudS aud whie haCs.
| In this bonnet the ribbon which forms tho
| strings Is 70 ded in two at the back, and there
gathe ed till II reaches the ena OF the bonnet on
| each side where the ribbon is left to It's full
| width tOr Sttlng~ tnih tOrmS the cape.
| The face trimming was OF white tullC, with q
| bunch of rosebuds and black berries. rho face
| trimmings in this establishment have pscultar
| marks of good taSte-a great advantage, tor the
| face trimming is the most important, being the
| becoming element of the bonnet.
Leaving the wilderness of pretty, tempting bon
nets, we come to the hats, th0,e IN )st en- n Iatng
coiilurns for young and pretty faces, but which
| should never be worn after twenty-five, even by
the piettiest McssrS. wood & e ry nave in
| vented d shape called the "COntinental," copied
from the old three-cornered Continental hat. IL
is made either in plush or velvet, aud trim n d
with jet velvet, ana u beautiful South n5ric In
bird, which seems to have Just liShted t1ere TO
whisper some tender secret 70 the pretty face over
! which 1t bends.
Nothing is more co1uettish or charming than
these hats. They are OF ali forms, ia BLACK tri n
/ med with feathers, beads, velvet, sometimes
, plaid, hut ofteucr back MeSsrs. Wood * Cary
have an immense assortment.
| Miss GACi, No. 1913 Chesuut street. also had
I an opening. Most tasteful are her hOnnets. One
in whie tulle, scarlet velvet, and hlA * We e,pe.
cially noticed for its originality and simplicity.
AT the Misses Reilys, No 1923 Walnut street.
! the bOnnets were also remarkable for their excel
lent style, BY which we mean that tn re was no
exuPgeraIion of ornament The fashion Of 40
cape is universal in the new bOnnetS.
Mrs King, who has just removed mp to No
ll06 Chestnut street, has her usual beautiful diS
play Of hats, bOnnets, and head. dresses. W
observed that she often keeps very ulrrO
cape, and that not all her bOnnets have Sof
crowns.
Mrs Kings bonnets have long enjoyed tn
specially of being ,upDranvely stylish, the trim
ming being especially elrgidt and unlike (Shis
perfectly In the ttshi0u) that OF any Othcr nJuIe
ln bonnets, as wei! rs dresses, plain solid color
will be worn as winter advances; velvet DOnu 4
| will be made almost universally OF bu- ne cOlOf
The jet trimmings and orn4men's are likely u
continue in favor, but the Dead ug will PROBABLY
he but a passing fancy. ViOliue Ga deco 10
vioei) is a new shade; Carm- lise a new in o
| leather color; Pbpbus color, q shade f orange
blue; black, of course; anI mode, or drIS, a.
the COOIs that viii be worn this Water, th
| sober Orub, however, not alOlr, bug mlX II W.T.
| some brighter tint.
Piaids wi only ne used "a, trimmings, and th
| chiefly for hnts. LESS SC rlet will ~ vprn tli
autumn than is u,us in tlis iopn. I ir price
| of bOUnets are TO vary with th 70 OF gut uNs Al
| other u,IChaudslG. tina, however, leaves "a 81
stall high, at l,a,t bu ,han1, d eY7n papi
(usualy more iudulgeut snau husDtui,J ~.
thiUk 50.
Now for the dress goods As far - design, o
what the French call disposition, the gods tu
pOrled This tail present u0thi'g very ItrlN,n
SOLID rolors are the taste Of The Pres.ut d ", a"
excellent ta,tr u L..
c mp eli & Co., No. 727 Cbesnut street, h q,
; an imuen'e vHre Dt tad AID winter 20 ,ds, au
{ ~ prices that ARE bus M lie 10 diyarc 'ot IN
a cola" ones. b ing Who'll "a a. geli As rHu
a dealers, Camphe'l x Co ive grra' lv,uta ,..s
which their retail Gus Omcrs redD che ivan 4 &
4 They have a large Supply of gods, aud ,it
r often avoid the hgLest mrtKets nv suppli.
Z | from their own warehouse, Tier hltck silk
4 for iHslauC Ce, are The cheapest IL ihe city lu
{ endless in stS le auu wdsh, tr un the ,ru 81, gpI
a To the magnificent prop raj ms ~ t,ry ~
q inches. The Paris popns 10 a irrs are ga
Il tiful wear when they "re double width, AnJ ,
' | but two GOiiars yard T.e l-c1l attn popuns
q bright pad' are a novelty fhi, So ,sOn
II The most beautiful material, however, we b "
q seen is called epingline. IL is m tde OF silk Iu
wool, and has the appearance OF the richest yelye
II is double width, costs three dollars yard, an
a is infinitely preferable and equally as rich as
MORE antique at six dollars per yard. This is
specially of this house. Here are also to be foun
: printed merinos, 80 excellent for chidrens Wea
: at q dollar and quarter yard.
The display Of millinery goods, such as ri
bons, silks, velyets, &c, at Warburton & Som
q No. 1904 Chesnut street, is not 20 be surpasse
/ One Of the choicest fall stock of goods of th
IS description has been received, and being rapid
o disposed OF at reduced prices.
n AT Evans, Chesnut street, between EighI
and Ninth streets, we find all the goo,
marked down forty and fifty per cent. low
than before the fall in gold. This is Il
moment TO buy, for as there will be no secon
fall importation, no matter what may be the sta
d OF the gold market, the scarcity Of goods mu
a make them increase in price. Al Evans we ha'
J. popins at Sl'5O, In all shades French chintzes
= seVentyhve cents; beautiful material, too, f
y dresses called cloth Duchesse. Evans & CO
n fancy silks have long enjoyed wide renown
there Is scarcely a house Ia which there IS