The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1864-07-02


plenty OF understrappers, and tell him to do his
best, and he will be sure to produce for your de-
lectaton a sumptuous repast. But the cook who
is not only an artist, but man Of genius can do
more than this-he can resolve the debris of the
market into delicious fare. IL was in this necro-
nancy of the cuisine that Soyer excelled.
He could tickle the palstes of the poor az cbssp
rate rs well as excitethe b1se appetites Of prncey
yOluptuarits with costly banquets. Before his
time II was thought that epicurcan enjoyment
ana ana economy were incompatible. He showed
the world now 10 combine them. When ter
Hble mortaltty--the result Of bad coOkery-pre.
vailed in the allied army before SebAstopoI he
took possession or the military kitchens and,con.
yerted the coarse TatiOns of the troops into whole
some paatable food The doctors had pr D.
nounced the camp epidemic beyond their skill
but the great cook arrested IT, and restored the
strength and stamina OF the emaciated hosts
Nattel, Beauyillier, Careme, and Ude were won.
deriul artists but they exercised their talents
solely for the benefit of the privileged orders
They had no receipts for the middle and laboring
classes. Soyer, on the other hand, was man OF
labor TO live well.
Wanted, therefore, an American Sover, 70
teach the American million how TO turn cheap
edibles into good dinners. The time has gone
by when families in moderate circumstsnces
could afford to buy the choicest cuts in the mar
ket. The golden age of the Republic cannot be
renewed in our day and generation, IL ever. The
present war will saddle us and our posterity with
a national debt nearly equal to that of England
and pension list of formidable dimensions
and rigid economy will be a matter of necessity
as II is there with that portion of the community
upon which the dead weight of taxation, after
sundry shirkings and shiftings, always ultimately
falls.
But although small tradesmen and Journey
men mechanics can no longer breakfast on por-
ter-house steaks, and dine on siroins and fattod
capons, they might with the aid of scientific
cookery. To yvhi oh
their altered circumstances restrict them into
better dishes than they ever ate in the palmiest
days OF their prosperity. The man who would
teach them-or rather their wives and daugh-
ters-how to accomplish this object would be a
great public beneiactOr. Soyer's Crimean re-
ceipts for soups, stews and hashes would be
worth ten times the price of any book eXtant to
hundreds of thousands of American families
They have never been published, we believe but
there are many scientific men In the United States
who, If they chose to turn their attention to the
economies OF cooking, could give us receipts
equally valuable. Who will essay the task IL
would be a labor of love- aud, while profitable to
the people, would bring rich pocuniary return
to the laborer.
II would amaze the uninitiated to see what can
be done by thorough artist of the Soyer school
with the unconsdered fragments that most of us
look upon as the refuse of the butchers stalls.
The piece Of neck beef which the butcher tossos
contemptuonsly into the poor mans basket, and
which, cooked in the ordinary way, might defy
the fled teeth of Thug to penetrate it, could be
transformed by the magic of art into a dish upon
which even an epieure would not disdain to dine.
Take the other terminus OF the anmal-its caudal
appendage. Most people suppose that its use
ceases with the life of the oX-that il was in
tended solely!to whisk away the flies.
But those who have tasted ox-tail soup, properly
made, know that il 10 richer and more nonrish-
ing than mock turtle, and quite As delicious. 1t
is curious fact that, although everything that
was once considered waste matter" by the
manufacturer is now turned to good account in
one branch or other of the mechanic arts, most Of
us regard with disgust the coarser disjectG men,
brdnG of the shambles, under a false impression
that they are only fit for dogs. The same nour-
isbing juices that pervade the loins of an OK cir
culate through its neck and legs. The 6bre is
tougher and there is less fatty matter that is all
and these are defects which scientific cookery
can in a great degree remedy.
The almost universal method of treating tough
meat is the worst that could be devised, Itis
pounded and then OveTfried or overbroed. By
these means the nutrimental principle is first
brayed out of the vessels that contained it, so as
TO be easily evolved by heat, and then driven by
the action OF a fierce iire up the chimney. What
remains is dyspeptic mass, little better than
india rubber.
1t is strange that we should have brought the
principles of animal chemistry to bear upon the
manuring OF land and the fattening of stock, and
yet have neglected to apply them in our kitchens.
American cookery, as general thing contra
yenes all the conditions laid down by Liebig as
determining the comparative nOurishng qualities
OF MEATS anu vegetables. II lS n POSITIVE Insult
TO philosophy, as we'll AS an outrage upon tlste
and digestion. We want TO see all this remedied
and dietetics elevated to the level of a science.
Our shirts and our coats are cut by mathem emati-
cal rules, and therefore fit us; but we have no
rules (save false onesl in culinary matters, and
therefore our inner man is uniformly and most
shametully mistitted.
Wanted, therefore, as we said before, an Ameri-
can Soyerj or rather, as good cuisinier as he
was, with more scientific knowledge. Will not
some one of our leading chemists step out of
the laboratory into the kitchen, and taking a
dexterous practical cook as his aid, endeaVor
TO found u culinary system which shall com
bine sound philosophy with tasteful art Such
one would deserve well of his country, and
we should be proud to start subscription TO
erect statue Ia his honor, beside the bust Of
Schiller, IN Central Park. The printed results
of his Investigations, illustrated by receipts,
would form the most popular book OF the age.
II would be well, however, that such work
should contain directions for nationally disposing
Of the good things Of life. We require not only
10 be taught how TO cOoN, but hoC 10 eIt, and IL
might be well 10 preface this branch OF the sub
ject with the remarks which Halliburton puts into
the mouth of Abernethy ~ "Ihe CiOckm ker."
They are rather coarse, b. 40 pertinent that We
shall meke no apology tor quoting them. Mr..
Aberni thy is supposed 10 be addressing dys-
peptie American who had applied TO him for
medical advice
an be hanged said he, "if ever saw a
Yank, that don't bolt his food whole, like a
boa constructor. How the devil can you expect |
to tigtst food that you neither take the ,roible
to dLsect nor the time 10 m stirata? Its no
wonder you luse your tech, for you never use
them; nor yOur digestion, for you overlO Id l.; |
nor your saliva, for You eXptnd il on your
c rpcls, instc of on your food. It's disgust
ing; it's lCaSty.
lyon Yankecs load yOur stomachs as a Devol- |
Shire man doCs'his cart as fall rs it can hold, |
aud as fast as he can pitch il in with a dung |
frk, and drive OFF; and then yOl cOmpl that |
such al of conn ost is too heavy for you. |
Dy-pcpsy eh lgfernsl guzzCng, yOu msan.
III iGl you what take halt the time to eat that
yon do 10 dTHwl out your words, Chew yolr TO ID |
lalf a much as you do your illhy tobacco, and
yCn'll hc well IN molth."
II any sayan on this side of the Atlantic |
wishes 10 htneit his country, and make q for |
tune at tie same time let him take our hint. |
Gel, bTatt d LOmm pathiht has asserted that the
stomsch l. the S at OF thr affections, AMI II So
what a popular idol wsuld that mIn be who |
should effect wholesome revolution In Amen |
can cookery and American masticadon !-R14ad |
Table
When man is hideously ugly, the only |
safety is in glorying in it. Let him boldly claim
IL as a distinction.