The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1864-11-18
vAsHIoNs ron MOVE EnRER.

The present month offers gceat facility to the
thronicler Of fashions, rs decided stamp has
now been given both to tie form Of costumes and
the material to be employed.
We remark rs the winter season approaches,
how much the basques are returning into favor;
and We may affirm now that robes, whatever
their tissue, will adopt them generally It is true
it will not be the classic basque worn for the last
few years; on the contrary, the new basque is
entirely one of fancy. The habit with square
tails, or tails turned back; she long basques Of
the veste dc chasse, and the basqucs dc ca5lque,
with a broad band, are all in vogue.
The paletots and casaques are now drawn 10
the waist by broad band, making them rescm-
Bile the blouses. We hope all ladies OF mste will
protest against this exceedingly ugly aud un-
graceful style-though We must admit that,
however uubecOmiug, q now fashion Is readily
adopted by novelty seekers.
The material for dresses has assumed a more
sombre and heavier appearance. We may bid
sdieu 10 gauzes and linens; poplns. tatletl5, and
reps delaine have taken tAeir place
The novelties in silk are very splendd-Pom-
padour taetas and satins for grand toilette Tho
white mOires, with broad stripes Of talletas In
various designs and cO.ors, are especially remark
able for their elegance.
Why do young, rich and elegant ladies prefer
wearing dresses decidedly mourning in their
appearance, such as black or black and grey
robe trimmed with jet, and earrings and buckle
eolors are better for the complexion; and black
especially, is very becoming to almost every one
This, then may be the true cause for igs prefer
ence, and so good one that we need seek no
Now the steel colored, and grey pearl moire
antique, silk gray gross grains, and grey terry
velvet are In demand; and who is not possessed
of a black MORE antique or violet taFctls?
We must describe some of these toilets in
order 10 give our readers an idea OF their general
effect
First, we must insist upon the point, namely,
that the yese maintains It's standing in fashion
the proof OF which We shall give in describing
three charming robes, Just completed for one OF
our most fashionable ladies'
The first is a grey moiro robe. Upon each
breadth are three broad iuted friils OF black vel
vet fixed with bow, and ends trimmed with
guipure on each scam. The vest is in the form OF
the habit gar3e FRANCHISE, fitting very closely,
most useful winter costume.
The second is Of violet tatielan. The bottom
Of the skirt is trimmed with n plated h0unce
edged with black aud violet velvet Above
this is a black velvet flOuuCe, with violet orna-
ments in each plait. The Senorita veste is of the
same material as the dress, edged with plating.
The sleeve is trimmed up the seam to match. 4
broad velvet oand with a buckle, is placed over
atucRed camoric guimpe, with Jlbot OF Vaien-
eennes lace.
The third robe is of green poult dc sole, with
narrow hounce, edged with black velvet; above
which is grecque, composed of rhi5ct fringe,
With tassels in each opening. This robe is ac-
cOmpanied by black Yeste, trimmed with ThiOct
fringe and passementerie. The muslin guimpe
is ornamented with narrow black velvet, edged
with white.
Velvet and cloth are making their appearance,
and il is probable that velvet will, last year, be
adopted for all descriptions Of toilets. Solong as
the temperature does not compel US to euvelop
ourselves in winter clothing, pardessus of the
same material as the dress With vesJes aud cor
sages in all makes, will be seen.
Evening dresses are made with mans and
basques formed of lace and silk. Embroidered
dresses will be very fashionable this winter.
Satin, embroidered with twisted silk or chenille,
has very good appearance.
poult-desoe robe, scalloped at the bottom
and edged with chenille. An oak leaf is embroi-
dered Ia each sCallOp. A row of the same leaves
placed upon the front breadth, and continued
on the body taille empire, with fitting sleeves.
~ violet satin dress, with broad embroidered
band over the hem. Then a rich wreath, mount.
ing up each breadth, gradually becoming narrow
tothetop. The position yeste has all the seams
corded.
We must not omit to mention some ball and
inspect.
Evening dresses in light, clear materials are
trimmed with lace, both on body and sleeves
We have seen several robes of grOs grains taft,
tas and satin. The colors are rose blue, gold
coloTed, and Parma violet, with beautiful black
lace fiOunces. SOrtes OF lace ia the burD1u
form, lined with colOred silk or satin are eleean
in the highest degree.
robe OF pink tgttetas, with two rows of ruchin
on the bottom skirt. Second skirt of white spotte
tulle, trimmed round with pink ribbon and lin
While silk hinge. Low body Of pink silk. Pele
rine berth Of guipure; bows on the shoulder
ribbon and silver tassels. The coiffure with thi
dress is a pOutf of moss roses and white curle
feathers falling on the neck.
Robe of gold-colored MORE. Tunis of blaC
lace in deep festoOns. Sash of black lace line
with tailetas, the ends floating behind. Pelerl
A maize-colored moire, with splendid bouque
embroidered on each breadth-eaCh bouquet a
peaTing TO be tied by ribbon in bright shades; d
whole produced by the skill Of the weaver. UpC
each seam is double mounting of Chantilly lac
Low body, with fchu Of lace covering slight
the shoulders, and crossed in front. Coidu
composed Of flowers to match the bouquets
the dress, with barbe of black lace. y charu
ing robe Of white grenadne, with fne stripes
pink, over pink tatfstas skirt, GRACEFUL
trimmed with luted tiounces, surmounted wit
ehicorees placed az intervals, and forming dee
festoons. In each testoon is a butterfly bow o
pink ribbon. Low body, with frills lenfan
sash OF pink tatfetas, with long ends fringed
the bottom. The cOiffure Is simple, being on
small rOsebuds placed here and there in the hal
A robe, suitable for a ball dress for youu
lady, is OF white tarlatan, with six bouillonnes
the bottom of the skirt A corseet in six div
sions, OF blue tafetas, trimmed with a uarro
ehieoree, turning on the skirt over the buoilUnne
Low-drawn body. Couture wreath of lobela
with full. blown rose on the left side.
BonneTs next claim our attention. With Il
winter season feathers will appear but befo
winter-that is 10 say, before velvet becom
general in demand we have autumn, with
tafletas capoies, which are all the fashion no
and are ornamented with flowers. For eXamp
upon brownish grey capOte--a color most
vogue at present-is placed bunch Of lar
purple velvet flowers, with grape, and 0Tnlmeu
of pearl beads.
< lilac silk capote may be trimmed with
wreath of vlelet heart's-esse, mixed with lea'
placed all round the 'front.' and under the crow
In lieu of curtain.
Most bonEets now have, in place of a curtain
narrow lace frii, bouillOnnes, cOques Of ribbO
or wTeaths of flowers 4 branch Of hOwl
placed on the side, and partly yelled by lace
bouillonnes, comprise the arrangement Of thC
cOquett sh c0iftuTes.
Bonnets become smaller and smaller, so mu
so that one is likely TO eXelaim -" Is IL possi
they can ft any lady's head Z" But when WOy
we are constrained 70 say they are most gracef
and becoming to the face.
A white velvet is very elegant-the crO'
formed of fanchon, cut in three points. A bar
of rich blonde is tied In fiat bow on the fro
and the sides are trimmed with branch Of VIII
and pink acacias, and bright green toliai
The inside is ruched with blonde. Two rows
beads turn over the front, and tasten bundle
acacias.
white tulle bonnet, embroidered with VIII
beads. A bunch Of flowers, composed Of me
roses, heath with beads on the points and dais
covered with dew, forms pouf upon the frOI
A smaller bunch of the same flowers is plac
behind instead of a curtain. These flowers a
mixed with curled ribbon the inside trimm