The New York herald., 1864-09-23
THE FALL FASHIONS.
OPENING oAy" N the METROPOLIS.
uIGH fAaCEs AND NEW STYLES,
o., e.

TIE pcessst universal mania for sxpsass the .,s.
profmes and sxtravagaaI expenditure obsssvabis
every sids sxtravasanes whioh prevails a Over the
country but may be said 70 ouiminaas In New York,
have attracted tho attention Of residents and soournss
ae and excited the comments or newspaper writer's and
correspondents at homo and abroad Nay more. IL has
been made tho theme Of editorial remark, serious
or sarcastic and foreign journalists have made the
basis OF elaborate articles and referred 70 Il to give
pansibuity 70 theory force to argument
Preachers have movased and sarsts have laughed
IT. legislators have framed laws tho occasion and
social reformers with spirit worthy OF Mrs. Partington
10 her famous conflict with the Atlantic ocean, have
BY resolutions and by to keep back the
resistcss advancing tide. While its regular and
governed as i were by natural laws unnotioed.
save by the ohronciers Of fashion, but that has
attained threatening height. every in
the question OF ts further rise gradual
silence Judging from present appearances the idea Of
subsistence has not yet entered The minds Of the leaders
Of fashion, tho upward tendency Is st evident and ali
the arrangements for the coming fall and winter
firm faith n the continuance Of the present lavish
0ime. Economy never was at such q discount before
Indeed, people part with money readily and ndif
feren.ly they had reached tho highest stage Of
Christian perfection detachment from worldly goods
No one walk through any OF the New York man,
moth establishments that minister to the Of the
fashionable world without coming to the that
expense 10 the order Of the day The shelves
tors groar under the load luxures piled up or tempt
tingy dlsplayed soft and usrous faces that
breath might ruHle exquisite popns regal velvets,
shaws thar queen might be proud to don, gloves
graceful looking opera cloaks--some white n
BRO, others RED ~ 2 famingo, and on inc
to assign to any clan in ali broad scoand-paids such as
were never seen on brae or HEATHER mountain or muir
land but picturesque and striking nevertheless, and
admirably calculated 70 brighten up winter promenade
on Broadway or Fifth avenue and contrast pleasantly
with sombre skies end snowy streets
The rage for expense Is only shown 10 the quality
OF goods bought, hut In the cxuberance OF trimming
used Never was there such mania for trimming OF
all kinds as 10 many instances the dress like the
frame OF bonnet, Is only the ground on which to
work. being ovcrlaid with trimming In every coDceiva
oaa oe o. rs'ne variety Of degns.some
When 1t Is remembered that this taste is not confined
to the waist and sleeves but takes the flowing ampli.
tude OF tho skirt for Its ground OF operaio form
some idea Of the expense that the present fashion
tails Jackets basquines, coaks, paieots also pro
used Tor that purpose
OF course when Horid taste prevails IN one depart.
nent Of fashion II be looked for IN all for though
fashion changes ranldv the figures N the kae do
scope. yet white 1t lasts there s unity and harmony in
tho whole. Simplicity 70 one department is q pretty
safc guaranty for simplicity in RiL and vice versa We
are not surprsed therefore, 10 knew that the for
ewery has suTnassed all previous experience and that
the leading establishments scarcely I'LL up the orders
they receive 10 time 10 satisfy customers Tho rage
ornament has reached to CATERS end We see them
now embroidered and trimmed with isce and crochet.
some have rcsctcs on instep Of lace crochet or vel
vet whie Others have bows and buckles extending from
The .instep to the top or the gaer.
''Oening lay', - much an institution ia New
York as New Years and IL Is looked forward with
more eagerness BY the fashionable world. Purchases
are delayed and selections postponed until after fhst
great event, and Individual taste for time becomes
passiye rnd fails 10 assert ITSELF held In check by the
6sc5usress that the regularly constituted nnd author
ized cxronenis Of fashion will soon "lay law
This is only for time, however, II conf
ard mod6es II TO suit our latitude and the habits OF
people.
This "opening Day" was looked for ward 70 with
marc impaiioncc than usual. and the exhibition rooms
blocked up for the greater part Of the day by
curious and Interested spectators In some establish
nents the high price Goods effect Of diminish
Ing the number of but 10 every other
respect the display was up to the mark In frst class
establishments there wps falling oil either quantity
or quality and 10 business point OF view the day
q complete success
As might be expected from the high price or materials
used the millinery business bonnes range higher than
ever Plain bonuets without lace foathcrs soil for
sss $40 siylsb onss resdy bring 100 and more
The Mcclellan described 10 the body Of The artice
though sort or Jockey cap and requiring consequently
les material iian bonnet cannot bc bought Tor less
than seventy five dollars. But tho high prices have
terrors for purchasers hundred dollars obstacle
the way Of sac and so modistcs make bounets and
fsshionables buy them, and New York proenades look
as gay and tho Opera House brilliant ever and Tho
winter have already said. promises surpsss in
gnyey and glitter every previans winter. Bat the high
prices Of bonne.s prevents pei sous limited means from
rrch asing and this upon largo class OF mil
customers
thoir money before laying IL out
Rish prices RUE w ciosks msntiss; br. - the
new ssyss are SLOW 10 coming IN we defer our notice Of
sufficient 10 show that tho masculine style win pre-.
dominate. Aready suspicious looking cloth have
made their appearance In ladies' cloak stores, doube
breasted, with pockets. and buttons. snd flaps, from
waich we can indse what The win,or will bring.
"O?anibg Day'' was duly nonnred the following o..
tabiishlnants, which were tbrongcd throughout tho
day
Bs,apwAY-E. Malhcrs & On ume Barroune Mrs
Scott Hme. Walton. Mira. A.. A.. Rnns Ira
r. l.ovett, 3rs. Mnoiinock. Mrs. A. Ieaman, VI. "
Myers Il Co. Mrs G, Ievns ana Mrs J. II. Gosson
Ncssrs Tray Irowb bridge, Walsh Tierrc7 George w.
BHH ord Summons, L. Buns, Srs Carter, bile Barnett.
cRuA1 ,IoSrs SWysr Nine Ferrero
iRrronxr IrAcr Mrs Harris
NsTu s.nrEr-Mma. williams.
ton. Mrs r. Cay, H. r. Caller, Miss ). smith, Mss
Coey & leonard, hmc Isaacs
GRAND Srrxsr.-T ord & Taylor
saia hvrSuy.-hmo Tslcon Mme selovcr, Mrs.
Rnesod. Mrs. Aver aud Miss shucg.
DIVISION SrpgrT.-E Openly Nine sa,omop IT.
Openhym, hrs. Feely, j. spcnce's sons,s Miss T. c.
Ciaucy.
STPS1 SrRssr -Mrs Rnmrin
EowERy. .fsmison, Mrs. J. W. Dempsey.
WALkLG SnsEx1. Thompson Co.
EosNErs.
In general the cbanges in bonucts, from TO
season. amounted to nothing more than dilerence In
ard material aitorna,on OF round Gro ns
rone and dropping fronts, clss and aring sides
yrue, have bad tho trimming disposed 10 various
ways; have had arranged round the faco like rib
bors 10 baby's cap, we hsvo had is with due regard
10 equity divided fairly bctween the sdos have
1t, justice overpowored md favoritism prevailed
passed over TO ore side exclusively; have It
clustered on the top, under penthouse 'front.' and
have seen It quivcrina tho brim and knew not for
time whether II Ambitious oahoot from beneath,
or pendant branches from above. Bus these changes
left the bonnet intact they touched vital point and
20 II survived through ALL But this fashion has
struck at it's very oxtstence and, IL not that
havo strong faith IN its recupcrave powers would
fear for the future OF tho bonnet. THIS season
we have 10 chronicle radical changes. The sky
scrapers, az we havo heard them irrcverently
termed. have been lowered with vengeance gone 10
the toworng height misss bonnet the cape has all
vanished the existence OF the crown n matter OF
doubt ana whether the bonnet dwlndIed into head
dress the headdrsss expanded Into bonnet Is an
open question, which leave 10 the decision OF our
lady readers With them, leave the discovery OF
tho Of this radical change Our business