The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1864-09-23

vulgar ia TIC light snowy plaid cloths with
which toe market has been delugcd.
very graceful novelty in the shape OF a lace
totggd has been introduced recently, and will be
part ulury welcomed by ladies who like drapery
over heir rich evening dresses. Llce points have
herr tuiore been used for this purpose, but they
luok s'aut upon portly p rsOn. aud, moreover,
require considerable skill for their rraC ful adjust
m. mt. The co'oUdS are larger, more ample, aud
sweep thc dress with much more imposing effect.
DRESSES AND DRESS MATERIALS.
GorCd dresses have been rcviviug this fall, and
are made TO q considerable extent I'm pjplins, in
heavy ribbed silks and in moire antiques In
black ropIin. thCy are sometimes cord d down
silk, and the same idea carried into the trimming
of the waist and sleeves. The skirt is always laid
in large single fox plaits, and hangs very long
behind.
We may remark, en- Bassant, that in the street
these black corded robes are made very striking
10y black toilette throughout, with the exception
Of gloves, which are crimson or gold color, 70
match the shade OF silk in the dress and some
more u the same color introduced into tho ornl.
meuts of the hat.
The cout-slecye is still exclusively worn for
house and street dresses, and is tighter than ever
making their arms look painfully attenuatcd In
light and white silks they ought positively to be
discarded, or covered with putied tulle.
Light ribbed SILKS in opal and other shades that
viii bear strong gaslight are admirable for even
ing wear they have all the effect OF uncut velvet
or ribbon satin, and aiter they become soiled can
be dyed 10 advantage. Satin, too, ever enjoys
the highest consideration as the material for the
richest toicttcs, and is wonderfully effective
when trimmed with costly lace and lit up with
flowers
The dress coats which have been the rage in
Paris during the past year have been intro luccd
here, but in that shape will hardly be recognized
by our ladies, who dislike extreme or very oVtre
styles. A modification consisting of very loose
slender basques, attached to the waist behind,
mas already attained favor. Blsques, round,
gauntlet pointed but generally long aud slender,
are now the rage for all sorts ot drc,scs-the
wastband, with its broad buckle, being fastened
over them.
The different styles of crimson and nacerat or
wine color will be very fashionable this coming
winter, in heavy silks, in mernoes, in empress
cloth, and in poplin. Light green is also desir-
able and green, black and crimson, very good
combination.
For early fall wear, grey dresses, trimmed with
black tniletas, stitched on with the sewing
machine, IN effective designs, are in excellent
taste-hat trimmings have largely taken the place
Of iiuting, ruches, and the like.
Low bodies arc made altogether for evening
dresses, with Grecian folds, when the material is
thin, and long wide scarf of the material AZ the
back, edged with quilting Of lace or ribbon, and
floating nearly TO the bottom OF the skirt. In
thicker materials, the body is made low and
square, cut of sharply upon the hips, and de
sCends In long tails behind. One of the new and
pretty French capes, with a volant, may be worn
with these waists, or a tucked or pulled POmpa-
dCur chemisgtte.
We cannot lorhear describing very beautiful
full-drcss toilet, made recently. The material
was Mexican blue pOW dc Sole, silk with %
minute rib heavier than tatleas but not so he lyy
as grOS grams. The trimming round the skirt
consisted of black lace, in tue form OF butterflies
with blue centre, and these butterflies were
united together by five rows OF fine black silk
cord. Similar butterflies onameuted the bo lice,
which was hcart-shaped, and the sleeves. A black
lace sash was worn with the dress.