Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1864-01-22
THE EVENING STAR.
THE FASHIONS.
From lie Toilet.

patterns OF wide black cheeks upon yeIyet
or green ground, with chenille fringe of the
two colors. Small paletots are also made OF
tne same materials and trimmed with fringe.
Velvet rotondes in black, violet or blue, as also
in striped plush are equally fashionable. Be-
sides those of cloth or velvet, nantes OF silk,
lined and wadded, trimmed with wide guipure
or po,sementsrie, mixed with beads, are worn,
but, although very pretty, they are certainty
scarcely so suitable 10 the weather as materials
of warmer appearance. A half fitting cdsd4"e
OF Lyons ss wh Fur IS admissible as
trimming even for full dress, tnougn, OF
course, then only worn by ladies who do not
dance Satin or velvet dresses OF light colors
are beng made with trimmings OF ermine
swansdown, or grebe, rou nd the bottom Of the
skirt, and sometimes also ON the body. They
have an exceedingly rich and elegant appear
anca
Satin brocatelle or velontine are occasionally
made with quite plain skirts. When trimmed
Upon q dress of Mexico blue or Empress mauye
satin, two or three bands of feathers produce a
splendid effect Lace, also, is very much used
" ith satin, and there are some exquisite lace
tunics made for this purpose. Guipure is no.
60 effective as Chsntily.
Ruches, fiounces with narrow satin trim
mings, butterfly bows, medallions, leaves of
lace, and especially passemeaterie. are worn as
trimmings this winter. PdSsemeRterie is in great
favor for vestes, which are trimmed with bands
OF il, forming braces. Upon Figaro yestes the
chief elegance is IN the epaulets with jet beads
ended with hanging ornaments. These are
now made long and narrow, very much orna-
min ating with cut Jet ornament. For visiting
dress in rich materials some persons have adop-
ted the tashfea OF having the skirt made per-
fectly plain.
Molres of a very large water are very much
IN vogue. especially the short moires. Those
with black ground and wide plain satin stripes
are also very handsome. A similar pattern Is
made in tatfetas
The flowing style of dress called Louis XIV,
is that usually adopted for robe de ehGmbre, or
morning dress. 1t is made with large plaits in
the back. The form Soutane-which is also used
for morning dresses--is without large plaits
and has less fuliness. For this reason, howev-
er, 1t is not so graceful, This garment, being
especially reserved for morning wear is usual
ly made simply or cashmere, flannel or alpaca.
When plain, the coors preferred are iron-gray
or deep blue. Others are made in black and
white check or plaid. Wide bands suiting the
dress used as trimmings. plaid band on
the iTon-gray upon the blue or plaid & band Of
tafTetas black velvet.
For these simple robes dc chambre can be sub
sIituted others OF richer description, as pom
ceau cashmere covered with rich black braid
Ing ard paSSementerte, or plaid poplin with vel
vet bands or, still more elegant, plush with
velvet. or quilted satin bands-this can only be
p In the Louis XIV style.
FouIard formerly was considered a summer
materialb now it is worn so generally at all
times of the year that we must not pass It oy
without notice. When of a dark shade it is es-
pecialIy useful for dull or wet weather, as 1t
loops mp so easily over the petticoat, and does
not crumple.
Violet and dark gray are the colors most sre-
terIed for walking dress. Those in cashmere
patterns Of palms or arabesques upon stripes
are reserved for morning at-home dress Fou-
lards with white ground and coiored boquets
or stripes are charming for evening dress.
This being the season W hen ball and eyening
dresses are much required, we will place
them first in our list of descriptions this month.
A silver. gray dress of p0UL de sOie, trimmed
round the bottom of the skirt with four narrow
huted llounces each headed by 4 rouleau OF
green and red plaid velvet. A low body,
with a round waist, and 4 plaid velvet scarf,
forming sash, tied loosely on one side, the ends
finished off with fringe. With this may be
worna Spanish veste OF lace, y fth bows ofplald
velvet
hounces OF English point lace, placed in zig
Gags and caught together by bows of pink satin
ribbon, edged with lace. The body covered
with a short pelerine OF lace, forming jockey
upon the sleeve, which Is short and pufted.
a rich white satin dress, the skirt made with
q train, and trimmed round with Il thick ruche
of tulie. Over this a tunic Of Swiss lace, II ade
deeper behind than in font. Low body, t1im-
MEG with drapery of lace, headed by tulle
ruche. This toilet would have a very elegant
effect if made OF blue satin with black Chautilly
lace.
A dress of foulard-whIte ground, with bou-
Guets Of blue flowers. fiounce of blue tafre-
tas round the skirt, which is made with train.
The founce, about quarter OF yard in depth
behind. but quite narrow in front, is edged with
an insertion of black lace laid fiat on, and
similar insertion forms heading. Higher mp
the skirt, at equal distances, are placed butter
fly bows of black lace insertion. The body is
draped with blue safetas, with small butterfly
bows OF insertion; and q scarf of black lace TO
match, tied loosely at the side, forms a sash.
An app1e-green satin underskirt, covered
with a white tulle skirt. The trimming is form
ed of ruches OF green satin and white tulle,
put on crossing one another SO as to form q
diamond. In the centre of each diamond a
medallion of black lace over green satin. The
underskirt is rather longer than the upper one,
and has row of small black lace medallions
matching those on the tulle, placed at a. little
distance apart all round It. The body is low,
and made of green satin, with drapery and
ruches OF tulle. A sash, formed of medallions
of lace sewn together
A robe of more antique, Mexico blue, with
pattern Of bouquets Of ears of corn, tied with
bows Of ribbon of the same shade of the ground,
only OF saxtin texture. A high body, with
waistband with double point made Of
Spanish point pdssementerie. To this band are
fixed ends which hang abouthalt way down
the skirt, two behind and two in front. Braces
to match, commencing from the band, are car.
ried over the shoulders, where they increase
considerably in width and form epaulets. At
the bottom of the sleeve a revers to match.
dress of maise- colored satin, with two rows
OF chenille put straight round the skirt and one
waved between them. Upon the body, which
Is high, trimming Of chenille in the style of a
figaro veste. The sleeve small, and opened up
to the elbow. A frill OF lace round the bottom
and down the front, forming ajatot.
A black MORE dress, trimmed round with
leo blue ribbon up each seam, to about the
height Of fifteen or sixteen inches. The ribbon
is covered with guipure insertion. All the
seams OF the body are covered with a narrow
ribbon under insertion
Robe of black taffetas. Round the bottom of
the skirt ruche Of violet ribbon higher up
bows of guipure edged with narrow lace and
lined with violet are sewn fiat on the dress
which forms very pretty trimming. Body
with point in front and a basque behind. a
guipure insertion is put on the Figaro veste
fashion, and edged with q rather wide lace At
the top and bottom of the sleeves are sewfifiat
lace bows, like those on the skirt, only smaller
Robe Of green silk with black flowers at
the bottom of the skirt two founces OF plain
green silk, about half quarter wide. set on in
deep plaits. These are headed by narrow
rnches Of black lace. High body with basque,
trimmed with narrow frills and ruches OF black
lace. The bottoms of the sleeves, which are
nearly tight, are trimmed TO match
MORE dress, in a white ground, with blue
and green flowers. The skirt made with a
train, and trimmed with double plating Of
velvet, green and blue. Body-form, bolero-
round in front, with deep basquines behind,
trimmed TO match The skirt
The bonnets of the present season ought to
please, we think, the most fastidious ladies, as
they are so exceedingly becoming, being Just
large enough to form a framework round the
FACE and trimmed both inside and ont without
any exaggeration; so that we are almost TEMPT
drov oog,o