The New York herald., 1864-09-23

~ sewer "haA shnt - te be1 agAAn." prsn -
:.asss s1ss ssaa .Ss s' 'a Ss
% &. % g nss :: e:
srli0cal summit maGai0osnt ecaxss sxDeec swayed =
ana no .v g sss = ~ q .S
but The sabes can answer for. inside 6tnmtaq.
fsn shaped bacdeau and nowsr Nc that @ the oGsA
sv:y laay-sas vsarss shoald possss aos ssiy bsas1
Beside H. 70 suhasos tho beauty Of bosA BY o.
ssss we're two opera hatsone Of white Grape tAe oS
bouquet q ssSt sos nes Ass .sr.Sou, asps1
q Il mSsgsSs .s Tes - wss placed o. ths brin. saa
os:s sss;
With blonde and doubts pulled m.nss, inssrspens:l
lovers q poetry and aSs sas n'.Ss % dear s =
fail OF rich point dattsrs shaded the velvet
formed the modern substitute for cape and tae' -.
on either side Of the crown. inside trimming rsl {
lace, disposed Ia Mario Stuart, underneath Whoa 3
bed Of tus Strings Of tuie Yard wide ana YARD "a
half hong
royal purple velvot with s crown Of white tuile sea-
ing through fall OF black chartiy It's bunches o me
bending over the crown. and its very becomiaS
face trimming; nor another OF the same material, buS
CUR Color with fringe or lace round the edge, whs
ace falling back the hat; cur coored ostrich fe
thor crossed by bright scarlet ribbon sweeping
round tue hat strings scarlet and OUR color. and ~
side bubch Of orange buds, with dropping sprays
Frst and roremost among the caps was the "McCSL
Ian In shape like acotcb cap and made or the richest
black velvet On the front were jet pendants and at ne
oa1s % q r @ Saa "a
shimcr,ng golden tall seemed to have lit ths 90
aud rested there The general voice declared It perecA
candidate for popular favor bids fair to rval
the distinguished hero Of Antetam. By the way. ~
rangements being made to introduce Jockeys ana
toQues other species OF the into the Opera
House and we have seen one got up with thae
iute3t. IL made OF light cuircolored velvet with
ia q lace over .ne on. has o a1a ssnng Dr% Jus. os,r
feather OF the same color. that, after passing rouae
the hal, got mixed up with broad RIBBON stresmo0
Promenade hats usual palmer than those intendeA
for other purposes We have very pretty walking
hat OF drab satn trimmed with red velvet, the crcwn
formed like chids cap, with alternate rows OF black
and white whrng round central rosette OF RED
velvet Inside trimming OF black heath white tuls
very Of black crinoiine trimmed outside
with scarlet velvet and black lace, and inside with rips
autumn berries, attracted attention from ts ladylks
lia velvet with . magnificent ostrich feather traiose
round the soft tule crown, overlad with network o
velvet and trimmed inside with v0!ets and moss rosca
The fashion OF wearing the hair In swaterfalls" ane
Grecan nccessitated the removal OF the cape bu
bows ribbons that its absence Ia not observed and
describing ths style We have spoken Of as II sx'
men. that supplies She placs w 9 6aSS G
presume vii 60 by that name, and We thlnk
II win DO more satisfactory than the stiT and uncouIos
cay much for the otber CHANCES Tho bonnet as 4
nov stands Affords protection from the fr0sls OF VIM
phnbus himself during July and August without sz9
safeguard would predict its failure But fashion y =
absolute and its subjects sayish that We are afraid -
hazard prophecy on any matter connected herewith
Time win tell. Tune viii give ns the measure OF eu9
endurance and 70 Time we loave It. .
DRESSES.
10 this department we have to chronicle DOT slight q
insignificant change which Tho careless observer might
pass by unnoticsd sweeping revolution, that cbas
- Aho sodiN Uaa
losing sight OF tho aocient landmars and the grsaA
expovnder Of tho constitution said somewhat snA
lar occasior had better take bearings and -
whittier we drifting. Tho military mania has nyadsA
tho domain Of fashion, and opaue, tight sleeve
fatigue jackets aud coat tails reign supreme We reEf
this because will give color 70 the base aad hlthsr
baseess sauder that the ladies always had uDfsut
nlne desire 10 appropriate portion Of the keatlsnesI
wardrobe But let the carpng and ceusorous draw thsr
OWL minded iniercnces h they w ours be thepsasan!ss
First, as TO the materials used. We have the ris4
heavy more aniuues Irish p0plns (oT which havH
sson some splosaa spocmsps h pam ana pl;aed sss
Empress cloths. apacas, llama cloths, not 70 mention
countless variety or mixed cotton and woo and linen sn
goods mako very desirable and useful dresa1a
Psids preva IN description Of dress goods and
coas shawls and ribbons and bid fair 70 be very popo
lar dur ipg the fall and winter.
The enormous increase tho price OF silks rendsvQ
them unattanaDle BY many who formerly considered
that the trimming Of dress frequently
tnan the dress itself and that rrofusion Of trimming
prised ladys dress several hundred dOiAss
wadrys Thn rare for trimmings has renchod ~
height II would be impossible TO increase IT, for every
avsabo space is used 10 raot tho dress no attor h1v
rich seems to be ouy groundwork on which to cxhie
the Ingenuity aod taste dsplayed 10 the trimming y
trimming embroidered on the dress, in contrasting
coors In different Styles Of which light and elegant ace
pattern was the most universally admired
As dress goods Increase prioe tho moral necessity
for consuming much Of the material possible ~
equa ratio This ~ least Is our hypotbess,
and we snail proceed show fair LADIES' a
New York uiy alive 10 the responsibility resting
them, and fully equal TO the crisis.
The dresses are made long full the skirt =
ever although tho hoop skirt has perccptby decreases
in size sometimes the skirt Is gored, but It s inva
riab,y trimmed and while the utmost latitude y
allowed in The or trimming. the necessity for
trimmig is rigiiy enforced From this nat there v -
appeal IL fortunate in view oil the necessity choica
have many TO choose from, all tastes -
suited. The rutng disposed In urdualions or laid
plain is the simplest form OF trimming that we have seso
ihe yandyke Greek borders both very elegant
while some OF the trimmings In such bad taste
In such Heterogeneous mixtures that we defy any ons
to classify them my modIstc that has correct tasts
will permit horsef in the race after varietos, -
The sccve ,s almat invariahy the coat sleeve, some
timcs loose epoughto sdmi, an underseeve but mere
frequently tight, with cut Tho trimmings are c'e
posed 10 tho tcrm OF an enaulet and are formed ~
loops velvet bans of Silks OF iaos
crochet bat invariably corresponding with the sr IN
mug on The other portions OF the drese. .
the corsarc that the greatest change has takss
place. belt waist bas entirely disappeared and 10 10
stead we the pointed front. with the deep basque
behind, elabcfate,y trimmed OF course. Ths 2onAvs
Jacket is still popunr and style combining ths
zouave front with long tails 10 the back
peccd 10 bc very successful candidate for popular
favor 10 the coming fall and winter campaign.
There besides The coat nchu the Heoise jacket aD1
many varieties this style, all alike In the essential
partcrlar-that is tie long coat tails but differing
matters such trimming and shape OF the ronA
We have secu a fatigue JACKET, made OF navy blue,
double breasted. with two of aavy buttons dovt
the 'front.' regular amount OF pockets tight sleeves
and an eagle In gold on each shoulder, thAa
has created quite a sensation The drosemaker who
hbitcd the novelty will have busy time in cxecntine
the orders which she has received The ladies
tainiy adopting the male attire very rapidly They havs
appropriated tho coat, vest jacket hat standing collar
aud nscke vary httte romsips
We have sesu very elegant dresses which We
shall endeavor describe Tor the benefit OF our fAh
ro.ders The first made in the Euprcs3 siyic-hsA
Is tnc waist and skirt in one piece IL was made
q beautiful shade VI green silk, trimmed with row ~
black velvet buttons down the front, bounded each