The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1864-03-25


peasing. and many preferred s moonlight radiance 10
the girteripg the crysts. dewdrors Tho csps uss
pointed an trimmed With straw frose. rese-sssug
threndrd petals OF the lily Of the val and ovr the
forehead tel irnte OF the material and arrange.
meot Inside trimming, bouquet Of opheIia ribbon aud
a solitary white pansy.
10 with The exquisite and costly have
described we're some rough aud readea, trimmed with
bright stuart plaid and like rustic beauty beside
CITY belle sing nothing by che contrast The cate
paid PLAID tanchon trimmed WITH real Lace and caught
IN The ceLte WIN astraw mulberry covered The crown
aud strings OF the Same material. yard long and a
quarter OF yard wide, completed the bonnet Inside
trimmings yellow roses, black lace aud green ribbon
Womb drive ,he round mats ont ~ ravar Th,t
they snoud have pleased the public eye long Is one OF
thoso mysteries of fashion that poor common sense Is
unable 10 granpe with or comprehend FOR they lack
every essential TO them and az sui,sb
for pr0men de as the riding habit which they gropery
beong Young mis 81 may them at any time, but
with ul dress they outrage every sense IL fitness
Is ~ worthy o. notice that promenade bonnels for the
spring and summer will DO as stylsh and elegant as
carriage hats aud altogether Ia keeping with the
nihcence that chaacerizes every department OF dys
wardrobe.
Lord Taylor have % ened department for mourning
millinery, IN which exhibited beautiful speci
mems OF mourning bonnets, from the plain, sambre
widows hat to tho stylish bonnet designed for second
mnurnicg.
Passing from Broadway and the east side of the city,
TO which not very long ago the millinery business Was
confued we discover that In the side "opening
day. Is universally observed and the millinery estab
lisbmepts are much crowded the most fashionable
exhibition rooms on broadway In Higgins the display
unusually fair consisting OF every variety OF ladies'
aud chdrens hats newest and Of the richest
material and straw goods OF every description
rough and ready to tho finest split PUNISHABLE
Tho taste evinced in the aud finish OF the
bounes In this establishment would have done credit 10
many store in Broadway, and certainly deserved the
encomiums So lavshy bestowed on them.
DREssxs.
As the year rcvo'ves and brings with it that delightful
season OF equmoxes and "0penngsn when Fashion, the
chameleon goddess, issues her proclamaons and lays
down her laws, we, faithful historians, take up the
pen record her variations publish to the world hor
We must FIRST premise that the most noticeable
feature in her inaugural evees and that fall
strike the most careless observer the perfect FREQ
dom Of choice accorded TO her votaries The stringent
laws and coercive of the past We rejoice TO
say gone. To be sure, find them In the poll
tical code; but what OF that long the realm Of
Fashion is FREQ Who would DO insane enough TO inst
any comparison between the relative value OF liberty
in the choice OF color or tho complexion OF voter Ger
tanly not we.
In the dress department We have nothing absolutely
new In materials TO chroncle but we have all the old
favorites reproduced In avorite designs. The
heavy winter goods replaced by those light elegant
airy fabrics that come in with the zephyrs and remind
Of sutry days and seaside breezes. For the inter-
mediate we have silks and at no previous open
ing have we seen such . magnificent display OF these
goods The chameleon silks il Stewards are the most
exquisite specimens OF the kind have One
OF pale green and delicate violet blending harmonious
y together over which ray OF sunlight appeared to lin.
soft dove color magenta and woven sunshine These
styles very fashionable in Paris at present. made
suite.
In the same establishment they have moire
antiques which form pleasing variety to the customary
selr color or this material.
The extraordinary advance In the price or silks only
increases the ardor OF New York bellies to possess
Them and price is deemed too high and no article oo
costly to purchase Can We believe in financial embar
easements, coming crash, when sec in Stewards
camel hair shawls worth from nino hundred 10 three
Thousand dollars lace shawls seven hundred dollars
M vi
shaws for two hundred and twenty five dollars and no
lack OF purchasers for as rule the higher the price the
quicker the SALE The lace Hhawls deserve more notice
than record OF their price The founced shawl
has entirely disappeared and ssuppaned by the single
which tho advantage It's predecessor display
ing the pattern advantage One or those shown
US especially deserving admiration was q Can.
tlly lace shawl, OF gossamer texture and OF
pattern Of remarkable beauty. In the centre was
bouquet OF exquisite 1owers-the full blown rose the
opening rosebud, the dropping ly with its long lapceo
late leaf and tropical fowers-the whole enclosed
in rich and heavy border that looked more like CORN
THAN mouldngs than anything liken It 70. Hav
ing some knowledge OF these matters we shrink appalled,
the amount OF labor OF these shaws represents
md from that view could think seven hundred dollars
\aSUsnble enough. The gupuros considerably cheaper
SBPy handsome costing only hundred and seven
tyve dollars Tho lama very pretty and inexpensive
lace the patterns elaborate. But must no,
imague that in this establishment there no shaws
cheaper than the lama for have seen prsy plato
and striped Shetland shaws for six and eight dollars
fair readers have visited more
tbcm the result OF our labors Lord Taylor's we
shown splendid silks color PINK blue,
lilac and other Coors suitable for evening dress some
rich corded gros Paris and others plain pou
but all five dollars yard. Tho richest quality Of
aSs if as op xo ny @
black silks are coming Into favor and We have some
beautiful specimens OF this style that cannot fail TO be
popular. Corn color though not so much the rage as
formerly Is still to be found in stores They have
exhibition in Lord Iaylor's worry elegant white silk
embroidered with tiny punches Of flowers, SO small
n be mDerccutiblc at short distance. Torn
ing from the silks, our attention was attracted
by a magnificent set Of point dalencon. consist
ing OF cape barbe sleeves and handkerchief The value
OF the set five hundred and fifty dollars. In the
establishment were shown striking novelty in
parasos which renders them rather expensive articles
made OF lilac silk covered with white point dc
opplique the other. white silk covered with Chantiiy
lace.
In tho same establishment we saw some beautiful Paris
shavls in aud elegant designs that sell for hun
dred aud seventy five dollars and Paisley shawis Of the
finest texture and richest borders for hundred and
eighty dollars. For the warm days or July and August
they have silk shawls from sir TO ten dollars light
paids, cnalets and gronadine, &c.
The mantlas aud other outside garments are marked
this by such bewderng variety that they would
require entire article 10 do them justice AT present
but refer TO them and draw attention to
this TACT which promises buyers wide Gold TO select
from aud the irgest liberty Of choice
The CoRsAGE
The different styles TOR the corsage varied that
choice is rather embarrassing and. though all are
Ssure The pointed waists in ali thor ' manifold forms
have entirely superseded the belt waist which is now
decidedly pnsse. Pointed waists are made with the
sharp single point, points, with square lappets
or the rounded waist. The back OF the corsage Is
fashioned to correspond with the front, with this diff
ference that tho points longer and larger The back
Is sometimes cut with square basque that extends from
side seam 10 the other. Dresses are high to
the throat and butoned 'front.' except for bail or even
ing costume whom lowDeck dresses are the style. We
have seen In Madame Demorests among other elegant
novelties very elegant and stylish waist called the
marguerite" IL 10 cut low and square, with dninu.
tive sleeves. or rather epaulets. The corsage ex-
tends below the waist falling over the hips with grace
full sweep ending in vandykc points. This elegant style
can DO reproduced in hgh-neck dress and be equally
rech<rche
There is quite rage for vests and jackets among our
fashopabes just now and u s refreshing 70 see such
genuine ENTHUSIASM displayed by New YORK ladies'
who never foolshly squander II upon any loss worthy
object We have all kinds Of vestseome with collars and
without some closed 70 the throat and ohors half
open. Then We have the "Postlion" jacket with long,
square appes 10 the back turned collar and front
Uss,S rba sMosro, ana r,spra" ,ann,v little ar
fairs, basque shaped back. rounded front. No matter
how the back may vary the front invariably the same
ed Ia Tha n