The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1864-12-20
London and Paris Fashions.

The following laics, exposition Of winter IA
shions is given by liz foLLrr:
Each month, a. u arrives seems n bring with II
an increasing number ~ ne veto- the best houses
are crowded with new designs Ia mod has been
40 varied and caprcious for some time past, that II
has been No cay matter to select novelties Tor our
readers. Formerly, dressmsker hsd but 10 say
" her customer, 'Suoh a style 10 no longer worn
thisis the present fsahon but now q lady has her
own IDEAS 81 dress, and the .killfu modEtc knows
how W advise, 80 that that which Is most becoming
may he selected which, ster all, gives the great
est charm " dress. The more antique OF 20 day Is
no longer the simple MORE, elegant q that was;
bu, Il IL now made s,nPeL Powered, spot
tod with figures resembling hieroglynhics,
&c, In dull silt or velvet The same style IA also
produced In taifotas Satin Is worn plain, hui il
pssfe rred with narrow strips Of velvet. Some mag
nihcont silks made IN large checks Of satin anC
gros-eran ~ plain color, with wide stripes OF
BLACK, on which arc brochees flowers in bright
colors or spotted gros-grsins OF all shades of
color, with bands Of white velvet on which are
wreaths Of flowers In natural colors. The ma
ter ais we have already named are, IT course, only
for grand toilets. Very little trimming 10 needed,
a. thew arc so espsnt In themselves hut on plain
silks or sains, which are still preferred by some,
trimmings whether OF lace, Tes.enonterie, iesth-
ors or howsra arc literally crowded.
Double skirts are gaining favor The UPPER ono
| Is generally open up the 'ront and back " the
waist, o. as 10 show the under one, which should
lie Of = different color The under skirt Is simply
trimmed with narrow nounce, set on in tst lts
|
| skir. which is generally Of satin, 10 very much
| trimmed, either with cords plaques buttons,
ctana OF pAsscmente aud loads, and indeed, all
manner OF trimmings. However eleg'n, this style
may look for tall women, II must plainly he seen
| thai IL cannot possibly te 40 for those below the
| ordinary height aud therefore, in that case u
should 10 trimmed as little AZ posi- lie. skirts are
very much trained cut quite round At the bottom,
| so as 10 make them set out. This IL certainly
graceful for indoor but the length Of dress
Is not always In proportion TO The size OF ,he apart
menL hdy must expect 70 have her dress ne
| quenty trodden upon. For morning dress
| popliuH reps, and ioulRrds still the
iavorite materials Bssquos are gaining IA
vor daily. They are made .omoume'
| in one fashion, sometimes In another but
basques Of all shapes and sres are decidedly the
| fAAh'on. There Is however, ono thing agAinsi
| which NO must warn our Itsders--thst Is wearins
| band over the basque nothing can lie more un,
graceful. Sleeves are still worn nearly tight; good
news for the winter. Jackets are tho fsvorite w,ai
| Tor si-home dress. They are, howevoI admissible
| even for evening wear, when made Of suitable ma
| lerials The vest Russo is very elegant made %
| velvet trimmed with nch psssemeuterie or tir, anc
without sleeves The waistcoa', which 10 general
| Of hsht-colorod ioulsrd, should have long tul
| sleeves fastened into wrislbsnd. Some OF thes'
Jackets are trimmed with band Of feathers an or
| namept which Ia daily gaining favor Tue paloto
is still the iAvorito form OF outdoor dress They Ar
made short, and drawn In at the waist No as near!
to 1T the figure. Colored plush, with fancy buttons
| is very much used, and with many has taken tn
| place Of velvet Inc latter material Is Timme,
very richly, either with huipure, passcmentcrle u
tur. Kotoudes are made quite short, with or with
out hoods.
The hoois are much worn this year, and, whcI
| well made, very becoming
| The b,uucts-Nyhich are worn even smaller thai
they were act mou'h-admit Of great variety IL
the trimmings indeed almost AL ythng Is emp oy
cd for this purpose. Thus pearls JOt, malachte
flowers, feathers lace, chenille, seem equal,
In favor each, however,, IA small quantities
according ~ tho nze OF tho bonnet aud eve,
that principally At the back place OF the curtain
Flowers OF velvet l,ace are preferred, and ais
leaves powdered, both ot which have very charm
ing effect, and torn very protty u.mmings. We
vet 10 much used for strings and with good TASTE
We think, IA II ID certainly very bee 1ming.
Some OF our Oest houses aro preparing marvel
lousy elegant head-lresscs Ior me winter season
Strings ot pearls aigrettes Of every kim, PINK rOc
coral, small foreign birds PLACED ON bouquets ,
roses N dBises, butterflies IN their natural COLOR
the wings OF ilcs mounted with coral OF howe,,
| are amon gst tue many materials en-. l1yeJ