The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1864-10-14
THE DAILY EVENING NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. FRIDAY 0CT0B

cuouph. the same tub Of dye may bc used for
second or even n third quantity If silk, without |
losit much OF hs cOOring quail les
The silk is thoroughly washed rom this dye, |
and then passed through the mordant Nitrate |
OF iron is the mordant used for most Of tho dark
colots and for b ack. The silk isagain washed in
running Vater, alter being removed from the IN lr
dnnt and tlen placed in the dye. For blacks |
his IA usually lopwoOd Formerly tho chipe
were used, but now the extract, which IL not
much more expensive, and has the merit Of
greater convenience and certainly as to tins. The
moidoLt will cause all the cplnrnR m gttor 20
idhtrN 10 the silk, ottCn leaving nearly pure
water IN The tnh buy substance is cslel a NOR
dant for which The cOloing matter has O strong
cLtni.1 pfhujty,
Tie ground OF al dYabs and browns is made by
sumlc Drahs are cleaned from his ami dyed
uCuralilCd blue a, archii. For browns pf dark
shsd, anrat o rs applied previously 20 the sumac,
Yclluw sbadoa aro obtained by lurmaric.
"Etulrlized blue" is o propagation from IN
diaO "Ch,mic blue is obtain, d by eating the
indigo With .ulphuric acid, md he blue IS thGu
"Lcuuulized" by an nlkah ATchil Is mDse, nr
lcbrn, from the Canary and Cape do Verl
lslards. II produces, when used aloue purple
color, hut itB usCis now Bupsr CdGd for purp es by
the snaiine or cOal-iar cvlOrs.
These are now universally used BY silk dyCrs
for all the brilliant tnts Of blue, purple, mIuv0,
crimson, &c., and the processes nre mnch less
laboriUus and more satisfactory than tney were
formerly. Those cOiurs are still expensive, how
ever and this fact counts for oil silks and rio
hons Of what are called technically "high cDur,"
commanding higher price than those Of sub
dutd tints.
After Jyeine, tho SILK is thoroughly cean3ed,
Fometimts passing through q mixture Of water,
soap, ard oil, n give brili1ucy. II is then dried
and 'BriDgCd," or stretched and shaken, and
put up in bands. A band is n hank Of SIX con-
taining n hundred skeins. A skeiu Is six cen
threads.
Girls take the skoins, counting the threads and
doublir them aud ty ing them IN sllp-knot in
the centre, rs we find them in the shops. During
this process they are also assorted. Usually
three or four grades of silk are found in the same
lot The fine and even skeins are separated from
those that arc cOarscr or that are in any way inn
perfect. They are then put up in packages by
weiPht-pounds, hRlEpounds, and ouuces-and
labelled for the market. Some Of the sewing
silk is spoiled instead of being made into skeins.
Embroidery and sadders' silk is always skeined.
Ten and twelve ounces of sewing-silk is called n
pound.
Machine twist and buttonhoe twist are made
of the best quality of silk. They are twisted in
the opposite direction to sewing silk. and are
always thTee-threaded. They are usually spoiled,
but buttOnhOle twist il sometimes wound upon
balls in strands of four or i've threads.
No better scwing-silk than the American is
made in the world. A few years since the Italian
had the preference in this market, but is now
entirely driven from it. As the result of yarioas
Improvements and OF experience, our native
manufacture may be said TO have reached per-
fectiOn.
Paterson, New Jersey IS the principal seat of
the eewing-silk manufacture. There are nu-
InerOub large IactOrieH Lnefe, eacn sustained Dy
capital of from nifty TO one hundred thousand
d oaTs. Newark, New Jersey, has also large
trade In sewiDg-sik, and large quantities are
made in the New England States and in Phila-
delphia.
Most of the labor in sewng-silk mills is done
by women and girls. The hours are usually from
a quarter before seven to quarter past six,
and they close at three o'clock on Saturday. The
average wages of the female operative is from
five to eight dollars per week. Children Of ten or
twelve years earn from TWO and half TO thTee
dollars per week for some Of the least important
processes. Some girls work by the piece at wind
ing, and if skiliui little exceed the regular
wages. The oveTseers of the different departments
| earn eight dollars. Spooling Is mostly piece
| work. by yeTs earn ten or twelve dollars week.
AT most of the silk-mils tram aud OrganznG
are made to supply the trimming makers and
| weavers. They also make supple" which is
| raw silk, or tram, dyed in the gum, and used by
| weaycIs for heavy filings.
TRIMMINGS.
| Trimming makers use very large quantities of
| tram and floss silk. The cords Uf YariOuS sizes
in upholstery, and in the making OF tassels gimps,
| &C., are made Of cotton covered with tram SILK.
| These cords Of cotton are stretched in long
frame and slowly twisted, while man with
"jack" fastened round his waist moves along the
line and covers them with the threads Of silk that
he holds in his hand. The jack is wooden
frame with number OF spools OF silk placed in
ii, and revolving upon wires. These cords are
then doubled and twisted. once more, a.
required. For heavy ornamental cords, or for
girdes, there are usually three of these strands
twisted together The finer cords are made into
tassels, or gimps or a variety of other fOrlns as
fashion dictates. WOrs Cd trimmings are made
in the same way, the worsted taking the place Of
silk.
Out of these materials, with wooden shapes
covered with the silk, sewiDg-slk, jet and STEEL
beads, sn endless variety of paSseH,eRteyie goods
are made. Buttons are covered with the tram
silk, or worked in a variety of stitches wiCh
sewing silk, which is also made into tassels.
II would be impossible to enumerate the variety
of forms in which silk enters into the manufac-
ture oftrimmings. They are constantly changing
| at the caprice of fashion; but the product is in
itself so essentially beautiful that no Substitute
for ii at present be found nor is it likely that
| any will be. ..... .
Chenille is avery beautiful species of trimming,
made from silk. few threads OF cotton arc
placed at regular distances in frame or loom, as
warp, and woven with filling of tram, OF any
desired color. After the weaving Is completed,
the filling is cut between these threads, strong
cord run through them, and by the aid of brush
the article assumes the soft round form Of the
! chenille.
In making trimmings, men do the covering Of
| cords, twisting, and heavy tassels. The rest Is
done by girls, many Of whom are employed, and
| make from four and half to seven dollars per
| week, working but eight or nno hours. Men
1 vnala aI,g, 4 u