Litchfield enquirer., 1863-12-10

tie appearance This is Especially the case in regard to mems dress. The introduction of the turned down collar, and it's adoption by persons of all ages, took off ten years from the aspect of Englishmen and Americans. The external symbols formerly considered appro- priate to the advancing stages of life having been abolished, it is difficult now to judge cor rectly of persons age. In our own recol, lection, the man of seventy looked his years at this day he might pass as sixty, or even if ty-fve. for any thing we can determine. The gradations of time on the stage were still more marked. A father of the last mentioned age used to be represented as an old gentleman wore wig, or long white hair,
 And his brooches, and all that,
 Were 50 queer.
 Increased ease in manners has kept even step with that of dress, and has doubtless been affected by it. When night-caps and trouser- straps were thrown to the winds, men found, with additional bodily freedom correspond ing mental emancipation. Unquestionably there is danger of the reaction being too great an imminent danger of plungink from rigidity into rude negligence.
 la ladies dress, the greatest coup in modern times has been the trestoration of the close fit ting sleeve. It was return to the true prin- ciples of taste. With many variations and an occasional attempt of dress-makers to discard 1t, the natural sleeve keeps its place. and has done so now for years. The stolnacher was fanciful reproduction of the Elizabethan age. So far 1t was looked upon with favor for a con- siderable period but 1t was mistake. It was protracting of the waist far below it's real position and at one etims, fanatlcsm brought the point down almost to the knees. The introduction of the hat instead of the bonnet was great modern gain.
 The cardinal canon in costume IS, that dress should conform itself to the human figure. It is not intended by this that persons of both sexes are to go about in elastic tight coverings, or that no liberty or variation within limits is permissible. But wherever dress greatly de viates from the form-goes upon lines not in harmony with those of the perSon-there is error-there is bad taste. Dress is to run its epicycle ever the curves and contour of the body. The hooped pettieoat or steeled skirt feolishly called crinoline, conceals the form, and, when excessive, reduces lady to pyra- mid. It is not unlikely, however, that this coutroyerted instrument will be talked down, because it has its aspect of health and con venience.
 The application and power of color are known to all intelligent dressers. Redundant cy of figure is to be killed Or kept down by black and dark tints, whilst to deficiency in fitness, white and lisht-hued materials give the greatest breadth and outline. Many years ago. waist bands were much worn by ladies. They were frequently made of two colors, longitu dinally divided: and those for who'E they were intended were quite aware that, by wearing the dark portion of the ribbon downwards, it in- creased the comic diniuution of the waist, whilst the light portion above gave force to the spring of the bust.
 The effects of color oil c, mplexion are only le ,rnt from experience. Portrait altists know how many are the tolors that mingle in ons f.ce and slightly varying proportions and sm Ill omissions produce differences in the skin, so that colors which suit one person are not becoming to another, although the com plexions of the two are supposed to be the same. A candid friend, or the more candid looking glass, must be the ultimate appeal. The most fattering position for the glass is when placed between two windows, the equal cross-light reducing inequalities and roughness to a minimum. The most unbecoming refec- tion is from glass in front of window the only one in the room. It is remarkable, and perhaps unexplained, that any irregularity Of the features, anything out of drawing in the face, is increased when seen in glass. There is great difference in the color of the glass itself; some glasses are very pure and white ; some have greenish tinge, necessarily pro- ducing dishearteniDg reflections.
 Returning to form, we must own that the bonnet adopted for the last two CT three years the spoon bonnet in all its varieties and sub species-is most reprehenslble. If an ellipse is needed, the longer axis is required across the brow. By generating two ellipses from the chin, the oval face and the oval bonnet--the latter including the former, and having the same perpendicular axis-the effect is most disagreeable. Contrast with these the Norma even the bonnet in fashion four years ago. Pile Pelion on Ossa pu. inside the spoon, above the forehead, large bouqu,t of flow CTS, and make feathers nod over the extreme summit, as we saw in Paris last June or bring the hair above the head, on cushions surmounted by a crown of stars, as we have seen in London theater in July this year yet taste and simplicity will triumph over what is artificial and uhsymmetrical.
 Why is it that when the tide of taste turns in our favor-when, after many efforts we at last apprehend simplicity. and rejoice that a female costume rather enhances than detracts from it's wearer's natural beauty-why is it, we ask, that the flood so soon turns, and that next season the charming head-gear and the becom- ing sleeve have been displaced, and that some thing difere mt, not so pretty. not so correct, is the only thing to wear? What was round has become elongated what was small is enlar ged lines which ran transversey are now lon gitudinal. The word different contains the secret. The law-giver is the artiste in robes and bonnets. There must be activity, there must be business there must be such varia- tions this season that last seasons dress or hat shall be instantly detected and known, and it's wearer held up to well-merlted ignominy. Hopeless, therefore, is the struggle after aes- thetics in dress when the trade depend on vio- lent changes. Happily the people at large the masses, if you will-are not equally con- strained.
 "Once q Week." London
 The N. Y. Independent has the following from a mother
 But did tell you what timeI had with my little Joe ?"
 |" No, what was it."