Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1863-10-17
THF FALL FASHIONS.

NeooAsS 4 4sf Lfassc9t A4ss4g C. ttl
From tbs New YORK World, Sept. 81
If the fstss hkd gone hslvss with the milliners
in order to maks the display brilliant. thsy could
not have succeeded in producing finer weather
! than that which assisted in making the "opsn-
ms" attractive yesseTd-y. It wss one Of those
! elear, translucent days which GENE only in Sep
tsm6sr, n which the sun, instead Of shining
With an Independent glare, becomes absorbed 10
the surrounding atmosphere, producing that mel
low rsdieuc6 which is called golden" with
/ truth IS well IS poetry.
OF course such day drew every one out
even those fsstidious daughters of fashion who
ignore public Openings" From morning 30
night the principal thorOughfaFes were crowded
with devoted and peFBe7efing lady pedestrians,
and the ius result was declared to be eminsutly
satisfactory
BONNETs NOT ON EXHIBITION.
To arrive at the most sacred truths and YHys-
tsriss Of fashion, il is necessary to 20 below the
surface, 20 20 behind the top windows and ex-
tract fr0m remote rsossses and secret repositories
items Of information which are Hs isal0usly
guarded as a fairy treasure. Il may be ST. down
IS a ge efsi rule that when fashion begins to
be parsaed IN the windows and 0u the street., it
has ceased to be enc with those whose example
Is suth0nty. For styles in bonnsts, therefore,
which viii be accepted by the sreas De Il creme,
H
than those thst wsTs, on exhibition
And to eomma1e5 At the orthodox point, the
sdsps is quits different from that Of las. saason
very much smaller; 50 small, that upon msny
OF the Fsehch b1nnets there ID no scsoD LETT,
sad when there is it is depressed, ha,tsned, 20
as 70 be almost square across the top, and quite
in kseping with new crown, whlca i5 called
| The "tOque," from It's resemblance 90 q head
/ dress of that name worn a few years ago. This
tongue" crsWn is quite new aud very stylish;
| It corresponds admirably with the ffOst of
/ fssbi0nsbls bonnet, and psrmits = change IN the
method Of trimming, with very good effsct
/ WITH tho high scoop and narrow crown the
| decoration was necessarily forced 20 ths front;
now il can be removed TO the side to the top of
the crown, or TO tho left of the bTim on one side
| and the right Of ths crown on the other.
| The trimming consists Of short eUried ostrich
/ feathers. gold, steel aud jst ornaments, very
rica velvet flowers, not excesA-a in qusntjty,
/ bus beautiful in color sad 81 2, aud with &
[ dsriag uztufalaess about the ID leaves sud
I twisted stems attached to the Sewers which sTs
very attractive. The feathers are not altogether
confined to the ostrich the p'umsgs Of many
repeal birds IS called into reqasition, snd are
/ sometimes associated together in a very striking
manner. Small peacock feathers are very Of
IeetiTe Tor the purpose, especially upon jockey
| hats.
/ - The fucst real lses and blond il also ussi In
proius0n for decoration, fastened with gold but
/ teid.ss, diamond crssosnts, and brllisuts,
/ formsd !nso insects with ruby eyes; AMI when
tho cost Of all these is added 70 the cost Of real
( plUmss and superior guslity ot velvet, Eiiy,
[ Sky, and even q hundred dollars need not be
/ wondered as as tbs psics OF Parisian hat
For the fan months, silk hats. trimmed with
| velvet o. the same color, and velvet flowers are
/ considered the most suitable; and later when it
/ is time TO PIT on velvet, tasy can BE- retained
! for second we-s."
! Plain rich tzffsts ribbon, narrow for trimming,
wit8 for strings Is sill the rule figured ribbons
having apparently dropped on; Of existence.
! A few examples will be necessary 10 give our
| readers "a idaA of styles, although Is Is very
well understood that the same materials in dit
/ feTsnt hands will compose bOHnsts a unlike as
/ q cloud and a star. Tde arrangement Of a
/ feather, the pacjHg Of a flower, the laying Of a
/ fold, above all the making Of a curtain, ranged
I near the top # the bonnet, and. with 2 nsEnih-
! cent rose, e1mpletsd the trimming.
/ A charming drawn bCaUet in rich mauve silk
[ wss made with a "tOqas" crown in q darker
shade Of velvet and trimmed simply with nar-
row ribbon laid n Dat bows upon the top, and
| fastened with q Jet butterfly.
Green IS very fashionable color this season
aud, in silk of toe shade called emeYaBds, with
bands Of ribbon, velvet OF the same shade, &
novel and elegant bonnet is constructed Of the
| STYLE called "barrieais" The bands are plsee5
crOsswise upon the body Of the hat, and escb
sqHs-e fastened with an ornamental jst button
The most admired design in black velvet wa.
laid Ia folds, raised upoa one side OF the head
over vh'e lace and maizs-c1l0rsd velvet pan
sizes, shaded with brown. The crown wss slsl
white but plain, not what is technically eslles
"soit Velvet pansies formed the face tim
ming.
Exquisits bannsts for the o3sTa were com
posed OF pssrl-eolOrsd ami light blue velvet
snd rich blond, blond IN soft waves snd loBl
bsrbes, which covered the wide strings Of tat
fsts There were slsos5Thits evening b1unets
0Tnsmsntad with the fair nsrcisss aRd laTg
, pond lilies, sud others Of pale pink, whose sin
gulsrity was produced by the contrast Of psi
yallow flowers, and 8 bGrTicsde Of the lines
barbs blond.
The choices. Of these designs wsTa seen at IA
Ninth street, and were selected in Paris by sh
distinguished taste OF Nine Tilmau, enc Of th'
most leljcisOus Of srtisies At the same h0us
we saw the "Blridan" hat, novelty fog yoans
ladies'. Il is OF black velvet, tufasd up viii
crimson on one side, ard oTHameated with j.
trimmings aud long white plume.
Ths soquo" baby hats s-s charming. in tur
qu0ise snd mexican blue velyes, With whit
planes.
A greri variety Of diamonds and other Orna
ua9Gts here are peculiar to this house. There at
exquisite birds, butterflies, aud inIects IL tretie
god, aud birds Of fine Bluuage, so minnie il
szs that one marvels how they could be msa
by human fingers. ThsTs sIs also garuiturs
for evening dresses, 50 dsWy and fresh that Tia
eristsl drops seem TO hang from the green leave
and the rose tips. 1t may bs useful sad valcs
able infoTmstioa 10 m@uy ladies iu New YoTl
Il and elsewhere 70 learn thzs Ons ssta5lishmel
} exists where complete gsgnituTes, eoiffarei
ehs,siains, snd bsuqusss can Rt all times he prC
| cured to correspond with every description
dresses
DRESSES AND sLANTLEs
Toiletie5, whether for street or house wea
sTs this season nearly an es sRits With th
pretty morning. wrappers ars worn slippers
the same color, trimmed with ribbons 70 mate
the color Of their dseoratioDs Street dresss
preserve still greater usiformisy; dress, mantle
hat, aRd gloves must all correspond in color 4
least, So that it is not little difdsulI 70 distiI
guish two ladies fsshi0nably dressed apart, pa
tieulariy if they add mask vials to similarit
I and uniformity Of custom.
Tae cooler westhsr Of Seotsmber has brougi
rs al the usasl variety Of fabrics 70 take 4
! place of the musAns and grenadines which a
80 agreeable during the sammer months. Ea
press cloths, p0phns, mohsiF alpaca, and ban
some Scotch paid are to Do found n al the me
admired colors, and IN excellent qualities. tatJt
ROiTs antique, sRd 4 new style of velvet fguT'
sIlk being reserved for dress occasions Or
grGins, heavy corded silk, is also very muS
IN favor this season, but it is neither as dura0
nor as elegant in black, IS q new manufseta
called gTOs de YeHice, which Is 50th beAuui
sod eaPsoie Of Going great service.
A novel and very strikiRg easGs " more g
tiqus Is produced by the intr9d dueiion oi smi
. figures upon the surface, which look precise
! Ike velvet They add Indsseriba5ly to the II
E POSING effscs Of a grand toilette, but are \
found in The eostiesi qualities of this expensi'
!, material. Very handsome figured MotTe q
q tiguss may be procured f,or four and i've dolls
per yard, but the richest plain H'oire aHtiqss