The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1856-1888, 1863-06-11
The Opening Day 1T New York.
The Fashions for Spring--AIarining Desel-
opnrcnI. of Female bic. If
not A.reca Bile. Information for Husbands
mud Fathers

aud Fathers.
The New York Ercning Post Of 9th March
says:
Although the weather was rather morose yes
/ terday-nOt exactly what might be expected for
the week before Aprii-yet the spring opening of
7 the fashionable season was quite brilliant. There
are startling novelties in female dress this year.
though bonnets are assuming Il slightly modified
form. The "sky-scraperS,' are reduced in
altitude, and the large crowns are considerably
depressed. At the same time the sides Of the
bonnet swell out 50 that in common phraseolgy,
Its as broad as it is long In trimmings
there i one notable change, Tor instead of cling
ing in dropping masses on the brI1n, the feathers,
flowers and ribbons are hereafter TO perch on the
crown. The vast quantities OF inside trimming
are considerably reduced. On the whole, the
modified system Of bonnet, though fully as ugly
is it, predecessor, is u shade more sensible.
The natural-history phrase of bonnet adorn-
ment is assuming unwonted proportions, and
this summer fashionable ladies will carry on their
heads the most repulsiye feature of j country
garden for instance, imitation worms and bugs
within the latest Paris style-nestle among the
lace and feathers and flowers which serve as
trimmings. Grasses and ferns will also be large
" initiated. Birds have also been introduced
real stuffed birds. They are worn bo;h on the
bonnet and on the head, several ladies having
lately appeared in the boxes of the Academy Of
Music with birds Of paradise perched upon them.
the beal projecting over their forehead and the
tail s~wooIing over the back of the head. Butter
flies, both real and artificial, are also talked Of.
The bug mania, however, is the most curious,
and if developed to as remarkable an extent as is
threatened, may lead US to the untold degrade
ton Of a couture a la cockroach, or a daddy
long-legs" bandeau.
"Pork-pie'' hats Will be in vogue ;lis season
more than ever. They look ike "a small cheese
with a feather in it. There are, of course, many
shades Of variety in bonnets, but they are all
more or less alike in form. In material they
vary, silks and straws being the prevailing
material.
Dresses show some diminution of erinoline,
and manifest "a curious contempt for the : : curve
of beauty; According to the fashion plates. Il
lady Of 1863 will be all of sharp points. as if she
could suddenly bristle out like Il hedgehog, and
impale her enemies. In materials there is a
demand for linen and alpacas, and most striking
of all, an urgent call for cotton dresses. Some
years ago, when ." calico balls we're the
our fashionable danes thought they were
doing 4 very graceful bit of condescension in
consenting 10 wear for Il few hours l. printed
cotton gown. Now they are proud to don the
once despised article, and merchants with old
stocks of calicoes, which they were worst to sell
to Bridget, now dispose of their goods to
Bridgets mistress. OF course as soon :as calico
is scarce ana expensive the ladies wish toswear it
and were there Il sudden famine in the sock-cloth
and ashes market, there is no doubt that the
dear creatures would insist on clothing themselves
in that scripturaI but at present not prevalent
style of garment.
An edict has gone forth against flounces, which
will be replaced by braid and gimp. Waists,
skirts are all to be highly ornamented, so
the old rage Of elaborate embroidery will be
revived.
P~aterfamilias will bear, we trust, with Chris
resignation, the announcement that prices
If all kinds of female gear have gone up prodi-
hats costing Sl5 last spring l,ow cost
$50. Of course cotton goods are rampant as to
orice and 50 with alpacas and linens. Silks
share, but not 50 notably, in the general rise.
Kid gloves are Il fancy stock, and brig quite
prices. Fashion this year vii! be an
goddess, and worshippers must prepare
% lay heavy tribute at her shrine.