, 1863-04-23
\ l::t1e Of everything thrown together.
AE u kY touch Of Militty Ecathcr :.

sAe Il ~ = toutA o1 "lAtfy weather.
though the intrinsic beauty Of all materials
employed saves the mixture from being vul-
gar or devoid OF attraction. Male hits will
s5upersede straw, except for travelling or neg
ligc wear. Chip is in full favor, and though
too delicate and frail to be an economical
head gear, makes one Of the 1orelicst hats
Imaginable, aud Invariably becoming IL high :
hrca faces. There are those so constant in
their devotion to StraT bonncts as not to be
Influenced By cloud that placcs them out of
the full sunshine Of fashion, and for that class
this years importa,ions will PRESENT manv
taking varieties. Straw flowers and leare5
arv to Gefouud in excellent styles, al.o dainty
E:ElT feathers; many Of the Iucst flowers are
formed Of exquisite tllayFee work in tlis ma
teElal. Wells are still employed; with sin.
PIE Lat tAey form j charming completion to
visiting COSTUME, and fur their bcconliucncss
should not he omitted in any; white ones for
young ladies will be used as the season grows
milGer, while many are to be found to fnateh
the various shades Of neutral tlnts used in
bonpets.
Plain cambrfcs or chamoray mu5lins, braid
ed in grecquc drsig'ls, will still be fnyorite
style for seaside morning wear, OF negfge iu
the country. For street dress On ordi6arT oc.
rasiorE, the leading article will be the En-
Elish alpaca; it is imported in all varieties OF
shade, grey, steel, cHtr, Il new shade Of yello s
brown, or, rs its name implies, leather color,
and nankeen. These are either plain OF
marked into plids by narrow lines Of black
Or white There are also many new cloths Of
tile mature Of poulin, yalencias, foile lie SIZE.
and such like, whose prevailing tone is mod
est and lady-iike.
Elegant silks are, by good taste, restricted
to carriage or drawing room wear; to flaunt
tlle'r gorgeous dyes and trail their rcsplend.
ant brightness through the dust and mud oi
our moi orcr clean streets, has always sayored
of wastcfu1 extravaganza, Which in itself is
vulgarlty. at this SEASON more than any
other is it hazardous to Venture out in cos!lr
attire, for showers aud sudden rains, no 1e.s
than chronic condition of slusi, to speak
Eln!anac'lkc, ''nlay be looked for" New
silk. are only new tlis year in the dcltcacy
Flounces, which for some seasons past have
been growing !" small BY degrees aud be.uti.
fully less" are TO tic well nigh Laid aside,
though 1utcd ruf11cs or narrow ones, stiIiY
applied in box 1!a;ts are still co;1u,.s il Jlat.
Their Place Is psurped by bands edged with
PLATED bias silk, or ribbon; braitlinc, csue.
c:ally In broad. bold designs Of gco1Hetrical
sort, Is much used on plain ma. cria}s also
Large lozenges Of contrasting silk, generally q
darker shade Of the same color, surrounded
with some of the various handsome gilaps 50
much admired: Many Of these gimps initiate
with Jet beads OF steel tags.
Black decorations, until lately almost uni
ycr>ally cmplojeI as IN Offset to color5. arc,
to degree, discontinued; In their stead
dresses arc trimmed with tic same, or a
Shade darker is used.
The maxi up Of hi the nultitudinous "a.
ricty Of drc5E goods which ere eagerly sought
mud bought, presents but few now features;
the jacket is yet fayocitc stsle, and mos!
street dresses arc fashioned with saucy ayawa{
coa1 tails behind and quaint points before, al
defined bg SEINE simple Or ornato trimming
others arc male to be worn with a belt, aud
finished with broad sash ends trimmed to
match the dress. These saslcs for home toi.
lctte are almost universal, aud provo drcssy
addition. Many richly embroidered yelyc;
points arc imported to he worn with silk
skirts and the full white chcmiset1e OF Cara.
balai waist; these are finished with broad
floating ends decorated elabosatcIy with braid.
ing, embroidery, bclding, gimp, lacc or fringe
The looGc white canezous, either Of muslin
lace, or Illusion, sus1er from no lack Of apprc
ciatlon.
Mantles, which, with bound, threatened
| to fly from the feet to the waist, have settled
| to happy medium; tho short sacquc is dis.
cartled, aid the long enyeloping coat djscouu
tcmncedi those Of this Spring are shorl
enough to permit skirt trimmings to be seen
and yet long enough to possess some attri
| bntet Of grace, 4 species OF talma Is made
| with openings for tho arms and gorcd fronts
conc are quite fall aud plated at the back
|
| the favoritc circle ard hood will he used, bu1
| In st-cct dress the hood Is replaced br I
/ pointed collar.
Ba1moral skirts, which, in every shade and
combination, have swept along in rainbow
| like hines, arc to be worn in Lighter stuff. ant
less decided colors, In Paris, where no la1y
trails her dresses, narrow longitudinal stripe!
OF black and white, gray aud black, or tEc
shades Of Eomc neutral tint, are adopted
| these skirts arc made quite ornamental, Will
braidcd bands applied near the edge, or bY
narrow douncc u the same bound with GAL
| braid.
Collars, either Of lace or needlework, .nr<
snIl worn quite small, the crayas shape, viii
lasG bow to match, being much adopted.
hcse craTats, with q somewhat question
| able fitness, have been much employed as al
/ adjunct to out-of door toilette; another O.
the many Interpretations Of foreign fashsor
to odd necs made by oIr ladies'. Thin, dressy
| muslin bows, with cltds Of lacc-surrouulel
neaallions, hare been noticed surrnountin1
velvet eloaks, and in few cxtraordinar1
lnstances even fur, presenting contrast a
| once ircongruous and grotcsquo. They AZ.
designed solely for indoor costumes as /
means Of lighting up Winter dress, ant
should be in accordance with both cap ant
uuieEsleevcs or cuh. The apron, too 1nuc.
Sighted Of late years, is modcstly attemp,in:
to assert its claim, upon public attention
ThtTc Is no accessory to indoor dress NOR
loI1e-1ike mud becoming than pretty apron
either with OF without 4 bodice. They al
| made either Of black or anT eolid.hued silk
t most rariously trimmed, many being rlchl
embroidered or braided, are furnished witt
t pockets, aGd should form a part Of ever
lady's general stock Of available prestinesscs