, 1863-09-29
Ml)ieagd @rlbn'1c.
OPENING DAY IN NEW YORK.
TIE FALL AND WINTER
FE6HtCMS.
WHAT TIE FLORA McCLIMSEY'S MCST
WEAR.
All About Bonnets Dress Goods, Furs,
Lae{s aid Lingerie.


1aets aid Lingerie.
Teo:z the New Tork World, Sept e:thl
If The Fates had cou. halves with the mil1iners
in order to make tbs display brilliant, they coala
not have encccede" In psoGucius nuel wcataos
than TINT wlicb assietcd In making the "opening'
atfrnciIye Yesterday. 1t wss one OF those clear,
f,aUejucent days which come only In September,
In which the sun, instead Of shining With an indie
pcndept glare, becomes absorbed IN the surround
ipg atmosphere. producing that mellow radiance
which is called golden" with truth as well AZ
pVosfHs 81 Course such day drew every one ont, even
those fastidious daughters Of fashion who ignore
public @'opcutngs Fnom morning till nfC6t the
principal thoroughis:es we1s croSded with de.
result was declared to be emineutly satisfactory.
nosszre NOT ON Exhibition.
To arrive at the most sacred truths and myete-
les of fashion 1t Is necessary to penetrate below
tho surfaee. to 80 behind the enop windows and
tories items o. iniormation which are a. jeaIo1sy
guarded as fairy treae ure It mny be set down AZ
general rule that when fuehion begins to bep.r-
aaed IN the windows AID on the street it has ceae-
Cd to be one with those whose example fs authog-
tty. For ftylcs in bonncts. therefore, which will
beaceepted By the creme de "a creme we prefer TO
take those that Wsfr NOT FATHER than those that
And. to commence At tbs orthodox point, tho
sLHpe is quite different from that OF last season.
the French bonrets there is no scoop left, and
when there is it is depressed dsttencd 20 as to be
almost square across top. and qatte In keeping
with new c1own, which 1B called the "topnc,"
from Its resemblance to head-dsees Of that name
worn = few years aco. Tails "toque" crown is
81 viz aST he I nont of fssh;onasle bonnst and
permits change In the method Of trimming, with
ycg good effect: VITA The high SCOOP, and nsrpw
Il: sn b. u tts
the top Of the ctowu to the left Of the brlm On
one aide AID ther1ght Of the csown On the other.
The %snS aa se1siss o. ot short snrea ostrich ss
velvet Aowers. not excessive In quantity, but
bcfutiful in co:or aud shading, and with daring
stems attached to the flowers which is very ntt1act
i've The feathers are hot altogether confined to
thc Ostrich the plnmage Of many tropical birds IL
called into 1equisition aud are sometimes assoct-
peacock feathers are very effective for this pur-
poee, especially rpon jetky hats.
The finest lace and b3oud IL also ueed In prp{u-
sion fot decoration. fastened with gold butterflies
diamond cscEc.nts, and tbriliaats, formed into
insects with ruby eyes: aud when the cost Of all
per}o1 quality OF velvet, afry, sixty, mud even a
hundred dollars need not be wondered at az the
. price OF q Partisan hat
velvet of tue same color, and velvet Aowers are
considered the most tuitable; and later when it
is time TO put On velvet, they can be retained for
Plain rich taffetas ribbon, nas7ow for trimming,
wide for strings is stu the rule figured ribbons
haytng apparently dropped o1t Of existence
and, IN silk Of the shade called esaerdade, with
bsnds Of ribbon, velvet OF the same shade, novel
ead aed e s
wiso upon the body Of the hat, and each square
fastened with an orDam entail Jet button.
The most admired design in black velvet WAS
laidi foldB. and raised upon one side OF the head
over white lace and mAtzr-colorcd velvet pansiez,
shaded with bfo9n. The crown Was also white.
f1uf xf, ia f1A11r anf&
Velvet pansies formed the face trimming.
Exquisite bounets for the opera were composed
blonde, blonde in SON waves and long bsrbss, ss,
which covered the vide strings Of ta5etn. There
werc also white evening bonnets, ornamented with
Of pale pinE, whote einguia1ity was produced By
thc contrast o! pale yellow flowers, and bar7i-
c.de Of the finest barbe blonde.
quoise .nd Gc1icsa % due - velvet, viii y white Lie
plumes.
DREssEs AND NANTES.
Toilettct, whether for street OF for house wear,
morning wrappers are worn clippers Of the same
color, trimmed with ribbon to match the color
OF their decorations Street dresses preserve still
mnst all correspond in color at least 60 that It ID
not little difficult to dtstfngnish two ladies
fashionaby dressed apart, particularly they add
tune.
The cooler weather OF September has brought
ne Al the usual variety Of fabrics to take the Place
Of tie sanallas and grenadinee which are 50 astee
able duriog, the summer months. Empress
cloths, poplius ,nohatr alpaca, and handsome
Scotch pi.td areto be found IN al the most a.
saoars antique. and q new style OF velvet-ngured
ei1k. betng reserved for dress occasions. Gros
favor this season. bpt It ie neither az durable nor
es elegant, In black. az new manufacture cS1led
pros Dc Tehlcs, which is both beautiful and capa-
novel aid yery etriSinr effect IN ,uo;,r cntio,,.
upon the surface which look precisely like velvet
grand toilette, hut are found IN the costliest
qualities Of this expansive material. Very hand
some figured ssoirr antiques may be procured fo1
p?sin n'olrs antiqne IL found as high as twelve
dollars per yard, nnd bears of the imperial palm
smsn bfaeE se.rct asares nrnn rieh tansta
frat time, the" 4snd'' ptaid Il i'll: t:odacsd in e1
pepkiyc silk, az well ae In poplin and wooleI
fabrics.
The making up o. dresses requires just now
the science q ths tsior a. vel Is 5be art q tt.
for house and promenade wear, have given placs
10 Jackets and restes Q! such varied. not 70 81,
em sshasa and Il
I'D Dloomer or '' Won,an's Rights AbsurdIty
need not feel alarmed; the rakish jacket, the mas
culine vest, the jaunfy tie" have all receives
the Atgh etoRp OF fashion, and are therefore paCes
beyond question or diepnte.
The jacket noet IN faror has skirt composed
q three aesshsd }appes At The eacs and is point
Ra ea satsy I'd
shirt. Vests Of white alpaca, OF white or blaci
corded eilk, are elegantly trimmed with jet Of
OF rich silk Jackets.
Skirts are trimmed in great variety OF stylea
round the hettom. Up the font and esen upon each
WAVES and festoons. still obtains, the pnderskirt
being trimmed 20 nearly like it to mate the up
per one when raised to protect it from the dust Of
There il very little variation in the sleeves Into
the narEow sleeves shaped Tt the elbow which
80 zee e
their quiet but graceful simplicity.
cLoAKs AND FCEs.
Very little is positively known respecting these
departments so early In the season, nothing In the
is su1mised, however, that vey lttle or novelty Il
in preparation. The o1d.fashioned circular c]Oal
eeems to have received q fresh Impulse from ths
lit representative, and comes out with new dig
nifty, new preteusions, and entirely new claims K
diBtfngui1hcd consideration.
Circular eloats, indeed, are to be the .sleaains
etyle Of the season, 60 docs the oracle assure us
and We hare no teaso2 to doubt its truth Il
which must not be mistaken for plush or for velvet
beaver in thick ar1nure silks, and In costly Lyonf
velvet, they are nnde, the only alternative being
the eacque. which is ouly TT for girls, and was
never dress garment for a lady.
urge against the circular; 1t ie comfortable for a
wrap, but only looks imposing as It hangs fro q
the shoulders and trails at the feet of a tragedy
queen-a .Etyle, unfortunately. not conducive to
the comfort OF those who are not accustomed to It.
The best houses are, however, overcoming the
difacnlty with their usual Skill BY the aid Of rich
materials and the most beautifu! ornaments in
paesmente1,e and gaipure lace. The obnozlons
ornament the shoulders while even velvet receives
new grace from bands OF bordering Of c.mine
aud the beautiful decorations which have been
imported expressly for this costly fabric,
Round cloaks of white or scarlet will also be
the style for opera wea1. No Cthe. color Is found
70 elective as these, and none olhcr which dis
plays to advantage all eorfs OF rcA dreesee- They
are about 1wo-thltds in length, with hood lnel
at au the watc1in. places during the past summer
In fufb ne get there ia nothing new to note, ex
ccpt m enormous advance in prices. Tue chap,
Of cape, collar, aud NUT still remains tue fame
and mink ie still the popular fur. It ie in this fn
that the Iargeet advance in prices has been made
HoyE1TT IN LAcEs.
Itiea long time since We observed 50 man!
pretty novelties in rich lace goods as have beer
imported this season 6hewls for evening wea
arc, Of coussc, ncsrly always the same, the differ
cnce 1s q mere matter Of design and cost but IL
the smaller and more dresay articles pertaining II
this exquisite manufacture. there is great yAtie
II o. etylee entirely ncw and Of remafkahl!
beautiful design and workmanship.
One Of these coueiete OF lace Teste, with 1oos'
sleeves, or simply apaulettes, the body roundes
from the front and shaped at the back, where +
deacends upon the ekin In three long, slender
rounded medelliont, which widen toward the ex
trcmIty, These vietE arc worn instead Of the old
n%--l An f1f Fic in n arrn4