Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1863-10-23
Prusslan Dinners and Dinner
Customs.

Prusslan Dinners and Dinner
I Customs.
In gastronomical point of view Ber
lin is by no means celebrated. The epi
cure about TO proceed thither should b.
warned that he will not get good dinner
there, except in some few private houses
Restaurants abound, but it would be hare
to name one of them to which Chris
tian man possessed of a palate at all re-
fined, and having proper respect for the
comfort of his stomach, would gladly
very often repair. There exist under the
Linden and elsewhere, eating houses
which seek, by the adoption OF foreign
names and attributes. to ensnare the un.
wary but the promises of their ambiti.
Gus bills of fare are i'll carried out ex.
cept in the manner of payment. Most oil
the hotels have copious tables d hote, and
at an extremely low price, cover the board
with the semblance of 4 good dinner
but the cheapness probably compels re-
sort to the baser strategcms and devices
of the culinary art, for, although they
may pass muster well enough for u short
time, few persons whose digestive organs
are habituated to plain wholesome food
will long endure, without detriment, those
composite dishes and suspicious condi-
ments. The two great faults of German
cookery, protuslon, Of grease and a
supcrabunlance Of acid, are here carried
to an extreme highly obnoxious to for
eigncrs; and the really magnificent aspar-
agus, white and tender from root to tip,
which their enyirons yield, is spoiled, for
an Englishman, by the melted butter,
transparent as oil, and of gross flavor,
with which it is held indispensable to COM
b;ne it. Good cooks are extremely rare
here, even according to the Prussan esti-
mate, and are quickly caught up when
discovered but a great many persons,
the talents Of whose domestic artist do
not reach beyond everyday requirements,
employ when they give dinner, cooks
who have establishments Of their own,
extensive kitchens, where they prepare
repa3t, which is then sent to the house of
their customer, when the last touches, the
Iinal heating and saucing, are given to it.
We should think this an unsatisfactory
way of doing things in England, at least
as Il general practice, but here it is found
to answer pretty well, and thus are many
houses even very great ones, supplied,
whether the case be one for great ban
quet or for neat dinner to a select party.
The dinner hour is generally very early
in Berlin. Few persons sit down to a
table later than three o'clock, and the
burgher class dine at one or two. The
King and royal family frequently dine at
three. and five is considered very lac
hour, beyond which no Berlin, that ever
heard of, waits for his principal meal
Some Of the diplomatsts retain their for
cign habits ant dine at the hours common
IN Paris and London. 1t would be an
omission to talk OF dinners in Berlin.
without mentioning one custom that pre-
vaiS--a custom have not met with in
no other part Of Germany, and which |
believe to be confined to this capital, OF
at least to be unknown beyond the very
lIlultCl ul>lILCb VI l W IiClI, liC
meal being at an end, the diners rise from
the table and pass into another room,
they turn to each other and 20 through a
set form OF bowins and salutation. Ey-
cryboiy bows to everybody; the ladies
curtsey, as Prussan ladies are apt to
curtsey, with an elaborate grace and for
maity, worthy of the days Of the minuet
| think | do not err when | sry that |
have seen some men shake hands aud
women even kiss each other; but if this
took place it would probably WAS only
after some remarkably good dinenr. De-
casionaliy you hear something murmurel
by the persons bowing to you, but as to
whether there be any set form of speech
appropriated to the ceremony, | confess
my ignorance. The intention is doubtless
a friendly one that, namely, of desiring
to you good digestion, which really,
considering the composition of many Ber-
lin dinners, is no superhuous wish. 1t is,
in another form, the " Buen proves -
may 1t profit you-of the courteous Span
lard when he finds you at meal. As to
the rise Of the practice it is difficult to
spcak-whether it be an ancient Wendish
usage, handed down through centuries, or
a modern innovation, first suggested by
tough viands and anti-gastric style OF
cookery. If it be borro eli from any
other country it has doubtless died out in
the land Of its origin. | have remarked
char sune Derllrcrs seem rather ashamed
OF it, as of something old-fashioned, or
out Of date, that must seem ridiculous to
foreigners; but in truth there is nothing
Objectionable in the custom, which is a
cordial aud corteous one, although stran-
gers may be apt to stare a little when,
Tor the first time Immediately after dim
ner, the behold the entire company bowlng
in pairs, and then facing to the right
about to renew the performance with
somebody else, and so on until they have
got throug h the whole party.
\ WoRp TO You've LADIEs.-We be-
lieve that young lady, by her constant,
consistent. Christian example may exert
untol1 nowcr You do not know the re.