Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1863-10-17

fabric
Small black velvet figures upon q rich taffsta
ground are among the new designs, and, for tire
first time, the "421" plaid is introduced in ex-
pensive silk, Es well as in popliH and woOlsn
fabrics.
The making I'D Of dresses rsuaires. inst now.
ne science OF the taller, IS well as the art o.
'hs modiste.s Plain, high bodies" 50 long the
RUE ioS house and promenade wear has given
place - jackets snd vests Of such varied. not
20 say mssculins, qualifications that simple.
women look At them agast, and trembis lest iD
HeaslEg them they m8y be unwittinglY in6ors
ing s0me hOrrid Bl0onsr or Woman Rivhtsi'
5ssurdity. However, the most devoted slsve Of
Mrs. Grundy mead not feel alarmed The rsk
lsh JACKET tns mssculine vest, the Jaunty .stis -
have sH recaived tia high stamp Of IsshfOn
and are therefore placed beyond the question Of
dispute
The jacket nnost in Eavor has a skirt com
posed OF three detached lappets a. the back, and
is pointed or rounded of from the iTonf. The
Vess may be partly open OF entirely closed #
open, II is worn with an ela5orstsly tucked and
embroidered shirt. Vests Of white alpaca, or
white or blsck coloTed SIX. are elegantly trim.
med with jet or black pssssWsHtsTis, to be worn
with black velvet or rich silk Jackets.
Skirts are trimmed in q great variety Of
styles, round the bottom, up the frOat, and even
upon each breadth. Narrow huting, and ruch-
ing put on in waves, snd fostoons still obtains
the underskirt being trimmed so nearly ike i
IS te make the upper one, when raised % pro-
teet it from the dust or mud, look like q tunic
There is very little variation in the sleeves
Iat0 the nsCTeW sleeves shaped at the elbow.
which have been so long in vogue, pufings are
introduced, which are scarcely an Improvement
on thaIr quiet dut graceful simplicity.
A very stylish novelty TOR = dinner dress has
bsen introduced By Nine. Dsm0res., and found
great favor. The body that has long slender
ma5sllj0ns which extend down upon the skirt
and Is trimmed RagAael. Il is very effective
ia the new plain calersd laffssa, which trims SO
elegantly with the black lace
A very stylish fall costume from the same es-
tsb.ishmant consisted Of q dress of Scotch plaid
and TsisHds Cor Espnd cloak af the same mate
nal, trimmed with three uss10sy bands Of silk
stitched On with 8 spAcs bs5geaR These TstOades
form the sort Of dTsss m03E in vogue Tor fall
wear. In Paris they are tashionRbly b0Tasred
Hith a H0olen fringe.
Skirts e-o stil WON very long behind, and
their apparent ls1Ssh IS increased by the smsI
s'Es ct iha hoop, which f.s closely round the
hips, bat expands. though not TO an inordiasts
extent, as It reaches ths 5sss.
CLCAKs AND FURs.
Very lit.le is positively known respecting
these departments 80 early in the season, moth
irg in the way Of novelty having ss yet been
exhibited. Ii IS surnlissd, however, thst very
Little Of novelty Is in preparation. The old
fashioned cirealsr cloak seems to have received
q Issh Impulse from tne favor which hss been
accorded TO It's brilliant scarlet representative.
and comes Gus with new dignity, new prsisa
sions, and entirely new claims 90 distinguished
con sidarstion.
Ctealsr cl0sks indeed, are 10 Be tho lead NJ
style" Of the season so the oracle assures as,
and we have no reason to doubt its ruth In
plaid wo1len cloth, 40 the beagdfUl velvet cloth,
which mas not be mistaken for plush OF for vel
yes beaver, in thick sFnure sii,-s, and In costly
Lyons velvet, they srs male, ths 0niY eltsrua-
tive being the sscque, which is only is for girs,
and was never q dress garment for lady.
Il is this O5isesion, in ftcf, which We have to
urge sgsinsl the ciTcujar; it is comfortable for
wrap, bus only looks imposing IS g hangs frOn
tbs shoulders aud irsils a. the feet Of a tragedy
qusen-s style, uDf7r.unasely, not conducive
70 tho comfort OF those who are not accustomed
TO it.
The best houses are however, oveyeonliBv
the difficulty with their usnzl skill by the sid Of
rich us,s-is sn3 lhe mos. bsautiful ornaments
IN Passemeatsrie and gui0urs lace. The cbnox-
ions arm hole is hidden uadsr Tich mslsIious
which 0ruamsnt the shoulders, while even vel
vss receives new grace rom bands or border
ing OF srmin5 tbs beautiful decorations which
have been imported expressly Tor this costly
fabric.
Round cosks Of white CT scarlet will also Be
the style for opera wear. No other color is
found 80 effective as these. and none other which
displays TO sdvsntsgs sll sorts Of rich dresses
They are about twO-thirls in length, with hood
lined and trimmed With white, such a. have
been worn at all the watering places during the
past summer.
In furs as yet there is nothing new 70 note,
except an enormous advance in prices. The
shape Of cape, collar, and muf still remain the
/ same and mink is the popular fur Il is in this
/ fur tbst the largest advances in pyics has been
made.
EOvELTY IN LACEs
L is a long time since we observed so many
/ pretty novelties in rich lace goods IS have been
/ imported this season Shawls for evening wear
are OF courss nearly always ths samss the ditisr-
encs is s.msTe matter OF design aud cost, bat in
| the smaller and more dFssSy articles psrtsioin
ta this exquisite manufacture, there Is = greai
variety ct styles entirely new and Of remarkably
beautiful design and workmanship.
Oas Of thess consists Of lace 5ssts, with
loose sleeve, or simply epsuleiss, the body
rounded from the fronf and Snapped a. the bsek
whore It dsseeHds upen ihsaskiTt in thTse long
slender rounded me1alli0ns, w.ich widen TO-
ward the extremity These vests are worn IN
stead % the old-tsshi0ned cape, end, when made
of rich lace in a handsome pstlsrB, are exceed
iugiE becoming.
a sash Of black Chantilly lace is q pretty
novelty for young ladies. It is made in three
/ parts, a pointed band or bodice, q fAt bow,
and long rounded ends, narrow At the top, and
very wide IS they approach the bottom Of the
skirt.
The tleep pointed eoIlsr Of our greas-gTsRd-
mothers timeS IS trying hard % creep back into
favor, bu5 viii nos, we hops, succeed. G5thing
so neat, delicate and becoming has been seen fol
4 long time as the narrow. ezquisitely wrought
collars aud tiny ruff 3 recently used for com
plsting the dress st the throat, and 20 set then
aside lef anything 50 hidaous ss these specimens
Of antiquity is great folly Thore are FeFsous tC
whom the large pointed coliarg are not uubsOOn
ing-lall women, extensive in ths line Of bus
sud waist, snd who give one a general flea q
I ampiiiuis and nlsniituds in dress and person
such can wear ths Spanish point uBtil Is de
scsnds upon their brOad shoulders, with impu
nity; bus 70 disguise dainty httle lady ia this
style would be an act OF cruelty.
Tne latest styles ip collars, however, and one
which seems most likely 10 obsain vogue, j.
ioported in sets Of collars aud cuffs with
boT, and ends 20 finish e. the thr0at. The col
lar is square, rather deeper than those which
have been worn, and has a standing Tufs. Tht
; cuffs ara made TO match.
Brides sre fortunate n q double ssnse-f1Ttu
nate in being brides ct sll in this WsTiAe snC
unmsTFyfBg sgoi and especially fortunate ~
, having had new bridal vail invented 10 add &
| their charms on the interesting occasion. It Il
il the form Of circle, very ample, over 81
yards round, and sweeps ths ground for a dept
Of at lsat half yard ike train. The top o
: the esnser is arTange1 a5 = e0ifEre, to Be isst
ened with flowers or with the diamond butter
Hies or other ornaments now 50 fashionable II
I Paris.
This rev vail bas the advantage not only o
: remarkable bssnsy sad graes, oas sewing -
9 necessity fer laee Aouneing upon ths dress
e desred. It can be mads atterwsrd into noaneiag
unsntls, or ether things - i7hey nay uie's.o ~
/ er, f,gv have as yet been imported, anC
. ,bo soss fsiS hundred dollsCs) is comparatively
/, law law f9r 50 magnificent garment
3 Tooie over-iressss 10 rich lace viii be yer,
: -. ~. szinseE, and have been inporlel i