Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1862-05-08
ArcnIsoN CRY, Kansas, April 81, 1862.

tree hills of the old "Keystonc State" Taking
the cars at ST. Louis on the Pacific r. r. for
Jefferson City, ride of six hours brought me
to the capital of the State thus saving one hun
dred and seventy.fve miles Of difficult river
navigation. Here fine steamer awaited our
arrival at the levee, and fearing the chances
rather slim for procuring a state-room lost not
moment in hurrying into the cabin and get
ting sight at the clerk. But like several
hundred others l was sadly disappointed and
compelled to take berth on mattress spread
upon the cabin floor.
The hour having arrived for the cabin to be
closed in order 10 make the beds, and knowing
that some FIVE or six hundred passengers were
on board, all bound for Kansas and Nebraska
and that over one hundred could not be accom-
modated at all with lodgings, took possession
of one of the beds and soon fell asleep. expect
ing to learn that we had made some sixty or
seventy miles up the river during the night
But on waking up in the morning imagine the
feelings of five hundred passengers when they
found we had been lying on "sand bar" and
had only made some eight miles during the
night some would laugh about it, some did
not care for they were getting their board and
some relieved themselves of oaths that ought
to make old Satan blush with shame. After
being on board five days. and suffering all the
incoveniencies necessarily incident to a steam
boat voyage on the western waters, we reached
our destination, at that time the great CONNER
cial metropolis of the territory of Kansas.
In the spring of 1857, Leavenworth was
nothing but a little, ugly looking town, contain
ing one brick hotel, two or three stone build
ings and less than seventy-fve inferior pine and
cottonwood buildings The place boasted of
four hotes-The Planters, Shawnee, st. George
and Leavenworth. l stopped at the latter and
refreshed myself by taking breakfast-price
only rs cents-getting eggs, bacon, a crust of
dry bread without butter, and cup of coffee
made from Missouri river water, as black as
tar, without any milk. Strolling around town
about half an hour, l walked short distance
up the river and took view of Fort Leaven-
worth nearly three miles distant where | could
plainly see the "stars and stripes proudly
waving above the garrison.
all the stages running between Leavenworth
and Lawrence being full l engaged passage of
Tennesseean who was about ready to start out
alone with buggy. The sun was past high
meridian when we reached sort of hotel
kept by a Delaware Indian, and having a
natural curiosity to try meal prepared by the
"Iniuns' in their peculiar style, ordered din
rer for myself and comrade. The family of
this house consisted of couple of lazy, prosy
looking Indians, two squaws, one small boy,
and pappoose strapped to board standing up
in one corner of the room. In due time we
were motoned to seat at the table. Ip,anked
myself down on a nail keg which answered for
a chair-my partner dtto-and commenced
eating dinner; biscuit mixed up with water half
baked, fried bacon swimming in rancid gravy,
the poorest and blackest kind of molasses, and
coffee ditto, comprised the bill of fare spread
before us. After worrying down few mouth
fuls came TO the conclusion that | was not
hungry, got up and paid the bill and soon we
were on the way again for Lawrence which was
distant thirty five miles from Leavenworth
About five o'clock we reached the Kaw or
Kansas river, and by means of a rope ferry
controlled by white man and two prosy "Dela-
wares" we crossed over and found ourselves ir
Lawrence, at that time the most noted town il
Kansas, having become famous for being sacked
by the Border Ruffians less than year previ
, GUS Lawrence at that time was almost com
pletely surrounded by intrenchments, throw
up after the bombardment of the Free State no
tel and destroying the two printing offices whicl
that city then boasted of. found Lawrence a
had often heard, pleasant and delightful lit
tie city-we have nothing but cities out here
n beautifully situated on the bank and .unninI
. back from the Kaw, surrounded by handsom
t, groves of timber and ravines, and half mil
d distant was Mt Dread overlooking the Who'll
/. place and several miles in either direction. o
~ the ton of this Mount was fort built by Ger
ID joseph H. Lane after the burning of Gov. Rol
s. inson's house by the rufIians, which was but
r. few hundred yards distant and where the ruiz
=. are vet plainly visible and will some day forl
an interesting page in the future history
Sc Kansas
N. The road from Leavenworth TO Lawrence ro
=. through the Delaware Reserve, greater po
e- ton of which is rolling prairie and some of Il
or best land that can be found between the Mi
,y sissippi and the Rocky Mountains. Occasion
on ally rough cabin could be seen, erected
sct some foolish fellow who hoped to hold Il
DC "quarter section" as soon as it was open 4
ers pre-emption, but at frequent intervals fine bel
of hickory and scrub oak, and clear runnil
he streams met the eye of the traveller. In sor
places the grass of the previous season W
very high, and dry as powder, and jumped o
- of the buggy, struck a match, set it on fire Al
for the first time in reality saw a prairie
Ed fire. The wind blew like hurricane and
'"' flames ran and spread with almost the rapid
-. of deer, and as we journeyed on could 10
NAL back and gaze upon one of the most beauti
I'm pictures my eyes ever behed.
lon' To look back upon Kansas fve.years it see
NJ" Nv but dream Where rough log cabin tn
stood, occupied by ."squatter," or wigw'
ure, occupied by an Indian, we now behold Lar
ioat and thriving villages, and the prairies dotl
nes, with houses no matter in what direction the
, no may be cast What a wonderful change
t.lr. al. =. a. 4