Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1862-02-20
w. D. WALLACH.
FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY,
tFram lie r ouet.

OAiy QeScTlOlQ2 the mate-
fials and styles in vogues at the present mo-
ment, arises from the great number from which
we nave to select. So many new fabrics have
oeen introduced, and 50 manF old ones ii---
proret, that tie description given, 40 "a to
present an idea Of their real appearance, is no
easy task: MOires and taffstas antiques are as
much in favor as ever but the colors and de-
signs are so diversified that they have quite a
novel effect. Some are embroidered, and bro
caded With shaded flowers and leaves; others
with small satin stripes and crossbars. These
are Tery elegant. Br sable-that is, covered
with small spots not larger than the head of a
small pin-is equally effective; as white sable
with black, black with white. violet with gold
The latter has very rich effect. In taffetas
antiques many new designs have teen adopted
We Noticed one, very pale primrose, nearly
white, on which were brocaded punches of
flowers. Each group was encircled with par
row black ltue, giving the flowers the appear
snce of being rsised, a. cameo We also
noticed white moire, with pink flowers bro
oaded IN the material, and black leaves en-
broidercd. This is the mode of the season
We must not omit to mention velvet, which
ls much woTn, both plain and terry Satin is
also IN great favor and is manufactured in
every imaginable color. Sky blue, sea green,
pale pink, white and maize, are the colors pre-
ferred tor evening wear; steel gray, golden
brown and violet, for out of doors. For
evening dresses, the materials are richer and
more beautiful than ever. For instance, tar
lstsn, gause and Grape, embroidered in the
SAME color, and sOutsches in gold and silver
Chambery gauEe is always fashionable; but
for grande toilette tulle is the material in
Tarlably chosen, and worn either with or with
out flowers. The tunic is much in favor. For
ball dresses tulle trimmed with double rou-
o. ches decOupees, with tunic of tulle, the same
material embroidered in silver or gold, or stars
ard small cOlored flowers. We particularly
noticed white satin dress and tunic of the
same, the latter, with small white feathers on
the edge, or placed so close together as to re-
present ruche. Another of white silk, with
tunlc Of white Grape, spotted with small
black velvet stars. Tulle or tarlatan dresses
are made with the skirts covered with twenty
or thirty narrow pinked founces. Some skirts
have alternate ruches Of blond and bouillonnes
OF tulle. We especially remarked one in the
latter style. The skirt was of pink silk, with
alternate beuillonnes of pink Grape and ruch-
ings Of black lace
TUNES are seldom made of the same mate
rial as the under skirts. For instance, when
CEderskirt Is made of plain tsrlatsn the tunic
Is hgured or striped with gold or silver. The
tunic Is generally raised by boquets Of how-
ers; or scarf, placed over one shoulder, and
tied under the arm, sustsins il by being fas-
tened to the unier skirt. These scarfs are far
more elegant when the ends are left long and
floating.
Low bodies have very little drapery, but are
generally worn with berthes, trimmed with
lace or blond. For young girls the ceinture
brassiere Is very pretty and becoming; it is a
berthe, formed by ribbon edged with lace,
which crosses in front and is tied behind be-
ing fastened on the shoulders by bow with
out ends. By changing the color of this orna-
ment white dress may be Wsrn several times,
and yet always appear new The ceinture is
sometimes tied in front, and falls like a double
scarf on each side Of the skirt. Long scarfs of
So. 10. GaVz1 NI e.
mer with thick materials only, the latter on
tulle or tarlatan.
The bodies of dresses made in rich materials
are almost always trimmed with lace or pas
sementerie; bpt they must be of good quality
and tastefully selected, rs common trimmings
rather detract from than embelish a dress.
The more aerial dress ball Is, the greater
the elegance Of the effect produced. A draw
back, however, to these clsuds of lace and tu!le
is that, although the ruches, bouillonnes and
fOunces look SO fairy-like at the commence
ment Of the evening before il is finished the
skirt appears chif1nse and ragged. Fortunate
iy, neither tarlatan nor tulle Is very expen-
sive, and few fresh bouillonnes or ribbons Of
different color restore the appearance of the
dress.
For dinner dress, light cOlord foulard, with
cOlOred flowers, or tsrlatGn and muslin en-
broidsred in colors, ara very much worn. The
latter is suitable for young ladies, and is gen.
blond or embroidered Organdi. A dinner dress
Of white foulard, with boquets Of roses, merits
description. The skirt was trimmed with two
frilled hOunces Of pink silk: between them
were placed FIVE rows Of pink velvet. The body
was round and low, with berthe formed Of lace
and frills of silk. Wide sleeves to the elbow,
open up to the front, and trimmed to CORES
pond with the skirt. Under sleeves Of tulle
bouillonne.
For quiet evening dress, and even for the
theater, small pelerines are worn, either round
or pointed, and are accompanied by small
fchus. The pelerines are made Of tarlatan, or
plated tulle. trimmed with lace rOsettes or
frills. They are made also in black guipure
or peint de Venise. The fchus are either
high or low. -...--
The question Of discontinuing crinolines has
been much discussed but, when we mention
that the skirts Of dresses are i've yards wide,
and that to steel cages two or three petticoats
are added, it will be perceived that there is no
very great change as TO circumference. The
petticOats are perhaps not quite so large near
the waist, but their is no difference in size at
the bottom Of the dress.
The bodies Of indoor and visiting dresses are
generally made open; some merely to the
hight Of the low body, others quite down to
the waist. Within these open bodies are worn
muslin fchus and habit shirts, trimmed with
lace or embroidery.
Spanish point, chenille fringes, medallions
aAA OONS VI VI ldCc arc luc cIuducuIe
most in request for bodies and sleeves. We
have seen several corsages with the trimming
placed in the form Of a berthe-a most becem-
ing style. The berthes are round The sleeves
are open, and not very large, and trimmed
either round or upon the seams.
Many skirts are made open at the seams,
which are turned back on reyers, and trim
med with ruches. A skirt Of a different mate
rial Is worn underneath, and shows at the
opening Of the seams. For instance, the upper
skirt may be of silk, and the under one Of terry
or plain velvet.
The richest and most extensive trimming is
the satin stitch embroidery, worked by hand
on the material. This style Of ornament is
only applicable to very ricn fabrics-as velvet,
tahetas, antique and moire.
We have seen a blue velvet dress, smbroi-
dered in gold at the seams, which were open,
disclosing an under petticoat Of white sarih.
Speaking Of velvet, we remarked violet, with
band Of chinchilla round the skirt, up the
front and over each shoulder. The body was