Cleveland morning leader. [volume] (Cleveland [Ohio]) 1854-1865, 1862-10-07
For the Cleveland Leader ]
The Fashions.
NEw YORK, Oct. /, !


umns out Of ten of the LEADER are given
over to the quietude of " our grand army, f"
"raids in Kentucky" q officers quarrels, ("
guerrillas, and war news generally, may
not we women folk have page Of recrea-
tion now and then 2
The Presidents proclamation has been
receivedand discussed, and the people have
cried good and clapped their hands till their
throats are sore and their palms blistered.
We always knew he would" and there is
no more to be said, until we are ready to
demand an unconditional emancipation for
everything that wears the fetters ofa slave,
: which we shall do the 1st day of January,
1868. Aye, old Santa Claus will have to
put that in his budget, ere he steps down
ehimneys next Christmas morn What,
did you ask2 What in his budget2 Why
t'immediate and unconditional" to be
sure, and now" Obi what a word 10
now THE only thing that we are sure
of. Now belongs to everybody, and if the
right thing is not done to-day, just when
it ought to be dene, it may be there win be
no chance to crowd it in among the legiti-
mate cares and duties that crown some day
of sur Lord, which should belong to other
three months ahead. No; now, only, is
the golden hour for which the world was
made, and they who have been waiting for
a future, viii be convinced, a thousand
years hence, that they never really had
possession of minute in their lives but
the zow-that eternity itself is but one
all-enduring, glorious NOW.
But you are clamoring for the fashions.
Why, ladies, if I should not say word
about them, you would not be more disap-
pointed than was 1 last Sabbath, when af-
ter hurrying up in the morning, and actu-
ally getting my breakfast in New York
City before ten o'clock, and fastening over
to Brooklyn, seating myself in the great
Plymouth Church. and watching with in
tense eyes the ingathering Of the immense
multitude from all parts Of the States, for
Z nodded to a Cleveland man, Columbus
lady, q familiar face from Cincinnati, an
cid friend from St. Louis, an acquaintance
from Boston, and so on, the great thun-
derer came forth and preached a magnif-
cent sermon, and did not say one word
about the Presidents proclamation. Only
think Of that. Not one word. BE only
took for his text, "The fruits Of the spirit
are love, joy, peace, long suffering, gentle
ness, meekness, temperance" and he
preached his long, (but too SHORTY sermon
on Joy. Oh such a sermon as it was
Better a thousand times than any lecture
upon the proclamation could have been,
filing the hearts Of the people with sun
shine-streWing flowers over desert places,
and making the tears Of mourning turn to
diamonds as they rolled down the cheeks
Of the bereayed; and yet was dissppoint-
ed, simply because had supposed he would
talk about "proclamations; because eve
rybody does. Go where you may in this
city, THAT is where decent people co. and
you hear only opinions in favor Of the
proclamation, as far as it goes" There
are places, doubtless-such as grog-shops,
bar-rooms, dark cellars, and few editOri-
al sanetums, like those Of the Herald"
"Jeurnal Of Commerce" &C., &C., where
there is talk otherWard, than in favor of
that dOcument-but such places are where
women do not go good women, mean.
But the fashions Well, the fashions
Let US copy a little from the New York
Times on bonnets:
at is q novel feature Of the new styles,
that transparent crowns, curtains or fronts,
partly or wholly, are introduced into all,
even those composed Of the heaviest fab
RIGS, and impart a lightness and delicacy
very unusual in winter bonnets."
All these notices Of the fashions as en-
anating from New York modestes need in
terpretation as much as do sentences writ
ten in Greek. The above means just this,
nothing more to common folks-that last
summers bonnet may be made into a win
ter hat by the addition of a few strips of
velvet, silk, or ribbon, and by putting last
winters flowers with a handful Of new
ones, adding all the bits and ends of rib
bon, turned inside out and filling up the
long out-reaching front full, from the apex
Of the bump Of self-esteem to the edge of
the brim, thus hiding all the deficiencies
Of the intellectual and moral organs from
sight. Then fat down the front Of your
bonnet till it falls over the brow, like the
jutting gable Of a warehouse, with its
block and tackle, its ropes and pullies
coiled up beneath, and you have the most
recherche love Of the time, hat.
Obi had nearly forgotten; if you
have feathers, ribbons and lace, put them
all together in as untasteful knot as pos
sible on the peak Of the brim, and let them
lean over and play bo-peep with the mass
Of fimsies undernesth-and you have the
finishing touch.
With the rich who can afford it, Lyons
velvet, corded silk and lace are the most
acceptable, black and white more usually
chosen, but all shades Of the new and bril-
liant oolors are admissible Plumes long
and flowing are to be used, Flowers, less
than last year, except in the makeup Of
less expensive hats.
Black trimmed with scarlet velvet and
black plumes is common. Bonnets Of vio-
let velvet, mouve and other unwritable
eolors, adorned with white plumes and
lsce, and ribbon edged with the color of
the velvet are in the shop windows.
Outdoor garments are as various as
the bonnets, though it is evident from the
displays ct Bulpier's and BrOdie's that the
sack so popular for two years past is
losing ground. The old circular cloak,
with its hood made to reach nearly to
the bottom Of the dress, mods to you from
every shop door. The waterproof cloth
SIN VERY nnnTIar Buf shaWls take pre-