Cleveland morning leader. [volume] (Cleveland [Ohio]) 1854-1865, 1862-02-07
1nndnn In Nnvember.

L0Do0H II N0NGnA4NEs
VI. D. Howells, formerly Of the State
Journal and now Consul to Venice, in LETT
.er to the Journal, thus speaks of London;
lam glad that Il was November when |
was In London. believe in Gautisrs theO- |
nv that every place should be seen In Its most !
aspect-and DO rot think tnat
I could be happy in my recollectons OF Lon
don unless had experienced there the famous
desire 70 hang oneself, with which London
IN November Is known to inspire the best
regulated minds. L wae inexpressably
dresry-the more dreary for the beautiful
picture Of country scenery, which that dull
rain OF London, too dirtily liBtlesS to fail
with energy, was slowly blotting trom my
mind.
On the evening Of day which was only
some three hours long g-commencing at about
II o'clock In the morning and taking tedi-
ous leave bout 2 o'clock in the afternoon
/ mounted to the top of an omnibus in the
Stand, and passed up through that narrow,
crowded, noisy thoroughfare, under Temple
Bar. (aboye they used to set the heads Of trail
tors. feF the entertainment and improvement
Of the citizens)-under Temple Bar, and
through Cheapside, and through Poultney, as
far Is Lombard street. And in this ride,
often checked by the sIfocstion of the street
with turpid omnibusses, and excited Ham
SONS, and Wild cabs, and plegmRtic market
wagons, and calm dog and donkey carts,-I
experienced more profoundly than at any
other time, the sense Of London's Vastness,
hurry, struggle, murky splendor, skulking
Wretchedness and systematic gloom.
vITfno vTrifaR I mt
sure that it was not former editor Of the
State JouEnRl-enjoyss all new events, Wheth-
er full Of sadness or happiness, merely be-
cause of their novelty; and certainly en-
joyed this. I have sAsn such crowds in
| Broadway, New York, and have admired
the struggles of the heroic police in starting
the dead locked wheels Of travel in that no.
bic thorouqhfare, but never saw such hope
less confusion there, with felicitous exigeses,
ss In the narrow Strand. Then there is a
briskness and chesFfulness In the transit Of
the American town, whereas there was only
a dull determination in the strife Of the Eng
lIsh city. The discouraged lamp feebly de-
cIined 70 piercs the fog beyond the distance
of q few feet; the mist stood on the shop
windows, and gave, remember, q peculiar
and unusual hideOusness to those displays oi
the fne arts in wax, which adorned the hair
dresserS fronts; the throngS upon the pave
ments were q dim mass Of movement and
restlessness; the tops Of the houses were en-
tirely invisible, 50 that one could not tel
whether they were three or athousand stories
hiqb; and Saint Pauls Cathedral refused to
exhibit anything but sullen shape Of gray
and had no more outline than Mr.. Mantelini (
duchess, who is well known to hsEe had no
outline at sll.
Isay that enjoyed this oppressive pros.
pect excessively, but I refused to acknoWl-
edge the true reason-that Of NOVELETTE,
the friendly conductor of the omnibus, with
whom / fell into chat.
tArsnt You afraid ipn be too damp fol
you, sir, outside2" asked ny friend in open
ing.
20 mop said l. prefer to stay herc
where can see this city"
"You'ra stranger, sir, said the conductor
HYes-an American"
GWhy-yoH speak FngliskI" said thC
conductor, after which astounding discovery
he lapsed into a profound silence, from
which be did not emerge until we were
brought 10 g stand-sIill BY the wreck, half-a
mile-ahead, Of cab, when the conducto
said, with q pereeptibIe exultation: "Yo'
never saw anything like this, sir, in Ameri
CAP
30 yes, said I, Hundreds of times.' -
And then described to him the wonders o
High street In Columbus, and perhaps over
stated Cbut what viii one not do for one
own city 2'') the number Of persons kille
annually In attempting to Cross that tumult
Gus thoroughfare. After this, ensued an &C
curate description Of the superb decoration
Of the State House ysrd-the monument;
: the fountains, and the statusry,-togethe
: with faithful sketch Of the capitol itself
which rather caused the Parliament Hous
> 20 dWindls into a small shRnty ;-(when
came 70 describe the Medical College, oh
served that st. Paul's Cathedral faded ava
into the fog altogsther.) There is ne use il
singing small the praises of your own land
= when abroad-and indeed; when once
Germany, talking of our railroads, l pr
on q little steam, and caused our trains b
tween Columbus and Cleveland 10 travel fft
instead Of twenty-five miles an hour, did
: thing for which ny conscience rewarded N
by falling entirely asleep, and being full
e that Prickly sensation which ones leg el
: periences in moments Of repose.