, 1862-12-25

pie nearest right. As told youssa4- shuttle
machines have this falling. and SaiqIng
the rotating machine I shall call Epur atte7i-
ton from time to time to the darence be-
tH:een the operation of one and t, bfher:&,
The only Totatinghook machine is tie :.
Wheeler d Wilson, Of which there are nearly.
if not quite Us many sold, as Of all yibratings
motion machines, or any respectable sewing
machines, whether making the lock stitch Of
double thread chain stitch put together.
This Of course does not iuclude those cheap
machines, or of that class which make tho
aggregate number Of machines sold.
In this connection, I beg leave to state to
you that I'll machines not using the Rotating
Hook, use vibrating motion for interlocking
their stitches.
world, il you please, as a jury, and those
within the sound Of my voice, as, agents, andT
as an agent, present our easel to the Jury. Our
opponents selling their various uachfnes
present their case to the jury, TO tic world,
Well, we only know the verdict Of the jury bV
the number Of sales that are made. Now it Is
Easy to say that one company manages ia
business better than another
~ 9n tals basis believe all things are equal.
iaEe thc world US jury, aud present to If
mechanical contriyance for purchase and the
OPINION OF the majority ct the world Is q pretty
ir4e u w. inaex 1t o. is merit and value. What
motion is better than i'll the vibrating 1no7
fions IN making stitches, put together; be-
caEse We sell us many Of these machines as
nearly all the others, put together. With
anose exceptions. Now since the TO-
tating motion is Of so much interest,
want to explain it to you, and want yot, to
understand it perfectly. have q screw in nv
nansl, an ordinary screw. Here is thread:
lay IT upon the thread Of tile screw. I turn
lAe screw in enc direction and the thrsad
passes up TO the shank of the screw; if I turn
IL IN Inc other direction, the thread passes
OF the screw, and as often Us put it On the
screw and turn it, Just so often viii it fall of
az az me end OF it. Now take that screw, one
thread OF 1t, and enlarge it till you make il
Two inches in diameter, be the same more or
les, GaL INTO the periphery a hook, and you
Ia n:1se tue wheeler d Wilson rotating hook
It is nothing more nor less than a screw. And
! - hoia IN my hand one thus enlarged. place
tnls nook within loop Of thread and in one
clftetion cause the hook to rotate and the
1Eread tails OF, you cannot keep it on the
nook no more than you can keep it on ascrew;
1as, 1ae NOOK e.' is screw; it enters the main
loop and carries it around. In the pro-
cess q It's rotation it distcnd5 this
loop sufficiently to pass around a bob
oln in which there is a thread. After
'thls needle thread loop has passed around
the bobbIn, it rests for a moment, although
tne nook t3 eon1nues It's rotation, III the mean
time the needle has continued its upward or
backward movement, passing out Of the fab
ric, the cloth has advanced forward by means
Of feed motion, so-called, tile length Of a
stich, and the needle goes downward into t.,c
cloth the second time. to form the second
needle loop for the second stitch. Tic ro-
tating hook all this time continues to rotate.
and at the right tin.c ertering the sccoud
needle loop.
Now the first loop has been at rest this time
with the bobbin thread OF second thread in it,
all ready to be drawn up into the cloth.
tef hi E,-%1<
cloth? answer, not by the backward stroke
Of The needle or mechanical equivalent as is
te case Nth all machines not nsing rot:t-
ing hook, hut this first loop is drawn up into
the cloth By the r0ssset ia11 M0os itself
For in the rotation Ut the hoo5-with The Sec
ond needle loop upon it, that draws risa- irst
loop into the cloth THUS The arst stitch Is
completed, and SO on.
Here desire you to observe that there is
no sudden drawing or Jerking Of The threads
into tie cloth; that one stitch is never
completed until another is commenced; e;
and that the one SO commenced draws
into the cloth the one Just beIore it,;
thereby Il gradua, drawing Of vi stitches iltoo
the cloth is secured, one after the other no
matter the velocity attained in using the ma
Cline. This is Important in the use Of fine
threads, Or when very fine regular sewing is
Indispensable It is no less desirable on heavy
fabrics, with large threads; but faults with
~ ~"A4aE, S%NN4AS ANoS ttpFu4hA9 vi tuLlll
on light fabrics. One more important
feature, to which I desire to call your
attention, is that the Office Of the
needle Of rotating-hook machine is only to
perforate the cloth, and feed (if yon plca5c)
each time for ! stitch. We do not rely upon
the backward stroke of the needle to draw up
tie stitch into the cloth Thus you will per
ceiye that tue duty Of Il needle in q rotating
hook machine is only to perfuratc and make
its loop. While other machines may re1r upon
the hack stroke Of the needle, aud have this
additional strain upon it, OF some such me-
chanicl equivalent fur drawing up the
stitch.
The question is sometimes asked, is it not
important to have straight needle. If the
backward stroke Of the needle draws up tile
stitch into the cloth should say it might in
such machines be desirable. But when there
| is no duty cxacted Of the needle as in a rotat-
| ing-Aook machine, but pierce the f:4bric, and
| make its loop, should say it is not essential.
Hence being no strain upon thu needle bur
to pe1forate, strength enough to per
WAS carefully considered in the making OF the
| Wheeler d Wilson, rotating hook ,i;.cs,lnp,
several years ago. A straight needle could
| have been made. It would lave rendered the
| machine somew,1;st complicated, it Is tFuc-
multiplying parts to obtain the 1notion-but
| it ,sas determined not to be essential Had it
been essential it would have been adopted,
as simple perfection is Il slight duty required
of a needle. This you can determine for your
selves, bJ holding between the thumb and
finger 4 fabric and piercing it with a sewing
machine needle. Here wish to state thai tilt
rotating g-hook, drawing np its own stitches
possesses essential Advantage in sewing ali
woven fabrics, but upon heavy leather it is oh
jcctionable. Upon heavy leather, the mi
chimes making lie loek-stitch with !. shuttle
| 1dr Il
| vantage is not gained by needles bcins
straight OR curvGd-a machine being heavy ol
1lght-bnt by the drawing Of the needle Ioor
thread directly up into the cloth as soon a:
the shuttle passes through its loop, andleayc:
! q thread in it.
The harsh substance Of Which leathcris is com
posed, offers resistance to tile drawing Of twt
Ioops-one after the otlcr-into leather, as i;
the case with the machines making the lock
stitch with the rotating hook. The lubr1ca
ton Of the surface Of the leather would d
away with this objection, and is used, AMI
successfully. Nevertheless, I would recon-
mend a good shuttle machine for such sewing
To any unprejudiced mind, who will thor
cughly investigate this subject, it must be
come apparent that the 1ock-st1tch made b,
the rotating-Ao is essentially The best me
chanical combination for stitching any woyc1
fabrics.
By usipg this rotating-hook, it not onl,
docs away with the strain upon the needle
since it draws up its OWN stitches, but it ais
| relieves the necessity Of tension upon the TN
der or second thread. The hook rotating il
direction contrary to the bobbin which hold
the under or second thread keeps that threa'
sufficiently taut. SO that there is but one ten
sion to resulatc-that tension is upon the up
per thread. By means of its regulation, il
connection with the action Of the rotating
hook, the proper tensions for both thread
are obtained. Those machines using the 70
tating hook are the only ones haring. but On
tension to regulate for both threads.
| All other machines using two threads hay
two tensions to regulate, one tension upoi
the upper, and one upon the under thread.
Inconvenience, sometimes difficulties, aris
in the adjustment Of two tensions to have th
| one act like the other, particularly on fin
work, or when the machines are worked !,
different ye1ocities.
Such Inconvenience or difficulty does nc
exist where one tension regulates the tcnsio
Of both threads in machines using the rotal
ing hook.
Do not understand that am alIuding to th
| operation OF any machines that are not
condition to be used. Any machine may b.
r come furnished or rusty By neglect. It Woul
he as difEcnlt for one machine to operate $
! another, in such case, in these investigations
I and remarks, take for granted that al nj:
: chimes are in their best condition for use, 8
they pass from their manufacturers hands.
We have treated at considerable length II
elasticity of stitches. The machines u5in
the rotating hook for interlockIng threads
the process Of sewing, believe, can make tt
p,ost elastic seam. Important Improvement
| added to the Wheeler S Wilson rotating hoo
machine, made during the past six month
!: prove clearly this position.
4 gi1ling- twinc is used with slight tension
| This * missed nrnund q hnhbin yFhirE has II