The New York herald., 1862-10-19
I'm shios.s Tor October.

o lis brilliant hf silky appearance, but above all the
richness aud beatty OF The cJors in VIII ch il is manuac
,uied produce hrmng effect II is made in light vio
le blJc golden brown. OF shades hitherto uneluacd
one manto OF accrul shape Is round longer AZ thC
lack imam tie fron, II has several seams from thS
shudc down TO the vast carsns it TO sit wen over the
shoulders II has h0es. but ~ sleeves and the tor
mantle Is trimiiai rouai With ihick fringe On Tic
seams aud roand the opening of tlie passemon
tcrie is placed. The material emp yed j. wooden vel
vet of brown violet or blue the fringe
back
another cloak ls similar to the last, but made will
sleeves A Ii hi plssementcria forms a pelegnc and /.
edged by OF sneng ornaments, formed OF cut !e
beads some q The same trimming Is place on the sleeve
forming cul.
batcm Of the SKIRT a double band Of the material
hrongh which the hand Is passed forms sleeve The
nn'lo is orramented in front and at The sides with me
gay ION. of I!Gh eMe ifrle Siaill nslallpps form
ornalisnts b tie shoulders midtown The back terminal
lg in black silk cord and tissels It is also fastened al
tn throat with cord aud tlssels.
The heZ, Of brown woolcn velvet s not long a.
the last aud divided up the b.cK with an insertion the
whole length of the mantle made Of medal ions and cords
OF passenentcrie kind OF stole OF passcmentcrie il
placed Over the shoulders. Tho front is trimmed with
rich buttons.
The last mantle we will mention is Of back silk velvet
II Is very wide and rather long behind, like rounded
train II is folded from the sho ders to the waist Wide
ba ds Of bak gupuro form ornaments ON the sidos The
sleeves shaped, and rather small Cords ana assels
and buttons are used as lastenings.
Indian fouard is oil the materials especially suitable
for autumn II may be trimmed with taetas quilted
not is as strong and rs pretty as actas and thicker
We have seen 1t in brown with narrow black stripes,
with little vioet flowers. or quite plain. fawn colora
shade very fashionable just aud, indeed, In sufficient
variety of coors and patterns to suit ali tastes but
sonibre patterns are most a la mode this season.
One OF the leading rarisan houses uses but little trim
ming on negligee dresses but to favor buttons
roscttes of For the cold days Of
autumn, quilted trimmings stitched in the color as
tho material, will be fashionable Sttchings In white
must be discarded they ye become Thoroughly CON-
mon. Bands of fancy braids or yelvets will be much
also
some very elegant trimmings have been made for
handsome dresses. One dress OF thick Lyons
tanetas violet do Parme color. The skr: is trimmed
quilting made In large paits Of the aetas the
dress The centre or third band Is the widest the
rowest bel about four inches wde The qullings ara
edged with narrow black velvet.
Other dresses, Of aspe "a kind Of brli- spangled)
taetas of silver gray color. were trimmed with five
Of black velvet odsrent widths round the skirt
Across these bands another velvet laid on, In the
figure OF s. reaching from the top to the bottom and
every point where 1t crossed the straps underneath
a button OF rich passemeatcric and jet beads were
sewcd.
Striped and checked acetas gazes de sole. &C., haze
good effect when trimmed with chicorees Of taetas Of
the same color as the stripe. Usually they put on
in three rows waved up each seam and round the bot
tom. Founces OF plain taffetas, with luted heading,
bordored with black eupurc ana put on in fcstoons
also worn
The following trimming is fresh and simple, admirably
suited for young girls dresses TO give clearer idea Of
il will suppose dress, for example, Of two shades
white and manvo. Round the skirt, at tho TOP Of the
hon. wide band OF mauvc taotas Is placed, bordsred
zach sdo with three rows OF white braid and edged
with very narrow quilting OF white taetas similar
narrow qning also placed at the bottom OF tho hem
This toilette Is completed by sash. tied behind OF
mauvs taifetas. trimmed with white braid and edged
round with narrow quilting. This dress, OF course,
would be equally pretty In blue or pink.
The sash j. still worn, tied behind for young women.
1t made with two points Ia 'front.' and tho ons should
aHotas vevct, organdi. or Of ribbon but in that
case 1t is necessary to add to their width by putting
narrow ruche Of lace or gupure at tho edge.
Very stylish slshes aro made In black six wide as
those described above the ends embroidered In pat
tern. with bouquet OF coorcd field flowers We have
also seen bands OF gupure, lined with coorcd taetas
mado into lcng sashss.
Tho chemse Russo st holds It's place Of favor IN the
fashionable world, we believe, not merely account Of
It's disingus appearance but also for economical purpo
Certainly, IL has this advantage II can be worn
with different skiltsskrts Of which the bodi g. per.
haps, longer preSentabe. II Is made in cache.
mere, or in thick nanscok In !hs first ore can
choose white blue, violet red but.hc latter color we
do not rec nnend 1t Is merely tolerated. The iluc or
violet is better received however the white s the most
recherche These they ciabroider the epauc,tcs
down the hem IN 'front.' round the turned back cuff the
ae n or ad @ ns serc o
this material. The Swiss AMI Mcics sashes have very
pretty effect WIN white dresses, or dresses OF light
with beads and when this kind of repro.
duced On the braces and on the little pockets II is very
stylish.
An excellent and fashionable couturicr has shown US
several extremely pretty dfesses, which will attempt
to describe
The first toilette IA OF Russian leather colored taIcas
Open body, trimmed Ia grccquc with back velvet upon
which are fastened buttons Of passemsnterie and jet
beads. The sleeve ns at the wrist with cnlf Louis
XVI trilnmed TO match Tic body The trimming on the
skirt deep founce. with wide grccauo in velvet on
the heading above which Is broad black velvet edged
each side with n raised passomcnterc. +.
second robe - for ball costume; composed OF white
tulle trimmed with dozen nouncos, edged with narrow
lilac ribbon Between each nounce Is band lilac tafe
tas covered with tue. e body is low, with berthe
OF tue In large folds with chou Of ribbons In 'front.' and
on the shoulders ceintufc corsclct Of lilac ribbon,
with broad scarf ends trimmed with tule, carried be-
hind, and falls the skirt
Fouard dresses will continue 10 bo worn. Those Cor
tho coming black or brown grounds The
prettiest and newest designs hesrscaee in pencil
with foliage pale brown; alternately with small lilac
daisies on black ground; small bouquets Of various
colcrcd flowers, on brown ground bouquets OF blue
myosotis, with green leaves on black ground Greek
or Byzantine designs on brown ground.
Foalards require very little trimming; simple chicorce
ruche OF black silk put Ia forming losangos two
or three inches wide Is the mst elegant STYLE but two
rows OF chicorcc crossing each other forming wreath
o. rings, placed above tho hem and carried up TO the
fr nt IL also very pretty trimming They may be also
trimmed with one wide founcc and plating or ruche to
Dresses OF organd, or white frcnadine trimmed with
gupure and black lace, are much IN favor for evening
dress. t
readers that their silk ball dresses may he brought into
under skirts whilst tho over one OF muslin may be
arc V 70 30 cn ae On pans h
two three 1ounocs, edged with ribbon 10 match the
under skirt two or three narrow hounccs OF pinkcd
silk wi h heading Of ruched ribbon, separating them
from each other. Tho body trimmed 10 match. and a
sash Of muslin, edged with frills and tied behind
silk dresses, trimmed with Grape, are mucl, admired
as forming happy medium between tho moro sombre
syc Of those intended toettes do willie and those for
full dress toiletcs We will describe few dresses IN
this sy e, which will DO four not only novel but very
elegant, .. ..4M. e#@f N&.
Robe n mauve tnetas, trimmed with three full chico
ruces Of Grape formed Of three shades tho inner
decor and the outer lighter shade than the dress
The slwc trimming round the berthe and sieovcs
SILK dress Of palc sea grccn,~ trimmed with throc
nouncos of Grape aed, tho same color as the dross
edged with blackHk. This may be worn as walking
dress In which scarf Of silk edged with Grape
fills should be added To complete this elegant tocttcf
we recommend rico straw bonnet, with bouquet o.
rosobuds the summt wreath Of ivy, placed over
fringe OF whe feathers reaching to the blonde curtain
Robe Of tafetas Empress lilac, trimmed with three
graduated ounccs pinkc headed with chlcoree ruche
OF crapo TO match and ninsng IN width and funess
according to the width OF the ounces. Fichu, trimmed
with pinkod frill and Grape ruches For toilette de
vile you add half square Of Chantiy simple