The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1862-10-18
Fall and Winter Fashions.

our beloved country and how and what we
can sacrifice most and best to serve her, we
are induced to make a synopsis from the pa
pers. of the recent Openings" at the New
York establishments of fashion.
And first of Bonnets. The shape has not
materially changed from last season; it is still
straight at the sides, high in front, with COM
pressed crown and curtain. The size is grow
ing small by degrees, and promises to be beau
tifully less. Fine straws, trimmed with velvet
and plumes, are considered distingue Tor fall
wear. For the more advanced season the ma
terials are rich and plain such as velvet, of a
violet blue or CUR leather) color, or of thick,
corded silk of black, purple gray, or resuire,
laid over with white or black lace, with white
or black plumes, or lace scarf, or curtain
of the same, or some contrasting material or
color. A novel feature is transparent crowns,
curtains, or fronts, introduced even into the
heaviest fabrics) which impart lightness
and delicacy unusual to winter bonnets. Fan
cy hats of black and white felt are universal
for chldren's wear, tastefully trimmed with
brightest colored velvet, or feathers of black
and white.
Out Door Garments The demand is prn-
cipally for shawls. India Cashmeres lead fol-
lowed by limitations in rich colors, as good as
the genuine for all useful purposes. For the
transition season shawls are decided in favor,
especially those of fine wool checks, and de-
servedly so, for it is seldom that garments at
so low a price are found in such excellent
taste.
For cloaks the novelties have not yet been
exposed, but those of fine ladies' cloth will be
most worn, with braided trimming. They
are laid in plaits at the back, shaped over the
shoulder and arm, but without sleeves, and
mostly confined to sack or paletot shapes.
novel trimming for cloaks and which has a
good effect, is fine broad black wooden braid,
laid in box plaits. The gored circular is Il
beautiful pattern, either in light or dark cloth,
with a braided trimming upon each seam.
This trimming is not only inexpensive, but is
reteniive in position, and not liable to acct
dent. Soft velvet plush, and velvet beaver
will be worn by those who can afford it. The
sdut en- basques are still worn, but longer than
those of last spring. Mn. Demorest exhb-
tied the "Giralda" and the "Rechelieu." A
pretty style for young girl was made OF fawn
colored cloth, bound with violet silk, stitched
with four rows Of white silk.
Dress Goods. 1t is refreshing that the de-
mand is less for novelties than for those stan
dard luxuries whose value is scarceiy inn
paired by time, such as India cashmere shaws,
,.ol.o IN a. IL
which last acquire an added glory with every
shade of yellow which time, and careful
washing in weak coffee, imparts to it, Plain
colors rule in dress, this season, with rich, du-
rable fabrics, such as moires, Irish poplins, OF
toman velours, and merinos, which form the
handsomest, and most serviceable walking
dresses. Less expensive, and more useful fab
rics, are thibets Of purple and dark green, or
other shades, and Aberplaids rank among the
choicest goods for winter walking wear, as al
so Rob Roy, and the Elan Alpine, dark blue
striped, with blush green, and black, and
checkered with red. As to colors, the new
CUR (leather) or 'bors," (wood) or gray, mar
BILE, blue, green, or black, will be most in favor
in silks or worsteds, for rich, or walking dress
es For ball dresses, plain, rich silks. Long,
wide sashes, tied behind, are pretty for young
girls.
Making up. The principal novelty for ordi
nary wear is the fancy jacket, or vest, which
is made in infinite variety. They are worn
with Garibaldi shirts of the same material as
the dress. A skirt or shirt of drab merino is
trimmed with rows of scarlet wooden braid;
the jacket in this case being Of scarlet cash
mere, trimmed with plaid buttons. Skirts are
finished around the bottom only with braid, or
pattern in braid work. They are worn full
and long behind, and are laid in fine, single
folds, placed thickly together, instead of large
box plaits. Sleeves are pulled. and worn loose
at the wrists; some of the leg-ofmutton style,
but very few are flowing.
The use of the sewing machine has intro
duced system of tucking, used to beautify
children's clothing, and under garments Of
every description.
Dressing the hair. A novel style is for the
back hair to form broad, smooth ring, which
descends upon the neck, while the front is
raised in puts and waves from the side of the
face. Wreaths are still in favor, composed of
bleached and vanished leaves of Indian corn,
twisted or braided together, with moss rose
buds; also the red thorEberry, with green
leaves; also a head dress of black velvet, of
diadem shape, embroidered with flowers in
jet.
Ldces and Ornaments. Laces are much
worn, particularly rich threads. Lace scaris
are worn in full dress, knotled around the
waist, or clasped upon the shoulder, and
tied under the arm. They are costly and
recherche.
The most novel feature in decorations of
every description, is the use made of steel,
not only in ornaments by itself, but used in the
manufacture of dress and cloak trimmings,
and even shoe ornaments. Steel jewelry ranks
high among the most exquisite works of art.
Black silk slippers are embroidered on the
trout with steel flowers. Walking boots are
decorated with three tiny steel buckles, laid on
small fiat bows of black velvet, an idea for
which we are indebted to the Empress Eu-
genie. 49,
From the 18th Regiment.
The following are extracts from a letter from
a private, in the 18th Maine Regiment, dated
Shin Island Miss SAINT oSfh 1870