Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1861-12-28
W. d. wALLACH.


!.
meet with equal success this winter. The
skirts Of dresses will be worn either ornament
cd to excess, or-for there Is ne medium-thor-
onghly simple and void Of all ornament We
can hardly realise this extreme of simplicity,
Especially as We find eur elegantes wearing
hounces, soutsches, and passementsries Of all
kinds It is true that for an indoor dress q
variety Of ornaments Is unnecessary, and even
inconTsnisnt. For "robes de ville' Of course
the case isquite different. 0ne.thing a certain,
o handsomely trimmed dress will always have
. richer appearance than one less %, let the
material be what Ii may. The only difficulty
10 to choose from the mass offered for our selec-
tion; comprising small gaufsred hounces,
ruches, braidings, passementeries of all kinds,
buttons surrounded with lseser fur, colored
pipings, tassels, pompons Of frsyed silk, me-
dallions Of velvet or silk embroidered in satin.
stitch, lace hounces or insertions, very narrow
gaufered frills, bands Of velvet or silks dis
position, &c. 1t is impossible to name the
thousand and one styles and material for trim
ming dresses.
FlOunces are never put to the bottom of the
skirt, aud are placed together, or in rows with
spaces between, according to the fancy ef the
rearer. Many are placed in twos or three, and
each set headed by rush or band Of color
They are seldom put straight round the skirt,
but in vandykes or soolloEs. The founces are
not hemmed-they are either bound or pinked
uIoccoo arc ITlmnoQ on tunlQu6, ana IL IL
expected that this style, being becoming one.
As it gives height and grace to the figure, will
long remain in fashion. The bodies Of dresses
are made either round or with two points if
the latter, the points in front open. They are
closed to the throat, or open enceur, according
to the style Of the material, or the purpose for
which the style was designed.
Alpaca is still q favorite material with the
Parisisns, and seems 10 be gaining ground with
the English. II has the advantage of falling
in graceful folds, without so much danger in
cutting as exists in many other fabrics. Poplins
either English or Irish, are much worn.
Tafetas, antiques and moires still maintain
their rank. Velvets are generally trimmed
with Astracan, either real or initiated, in
Thibet wool or frayed silk. 1t is very rich
and soft trimming. Foulards are much in
favor, despite the winter. The most fashion
able are those with brown or grey grounds,
aud colored flowers. white foulard with
eolored patterns, makes very elegant evening
dress, and has the advantage over tarlatane in
that it will wash. Soutaches and cords are
very much worn. The designs In which they
are made are very rich and fantastic. The
skirts are worn very full and long behind, but
rather shorter in front than formerly.
Colored psttieoats are as much in favor for
out-of- -door-Wesr as ever. They are made in
woods or drougets, in plain materials, and trim
med With wide bands Of velvet or colored meri-
no In cashmere, with designs printed to
initiate laoss-this latter is hardly good taste !;
the most elegant and expensive colored petit
coats are in black silk, quilted with white or
eolor In various patterns, in squares or medal.
lions, 6c.
The Zouavs vest is not superseded by the
Garibaldi I; but is no longer accompanied by
the vaistcoat Of latute or muslin the season
feq quires warmer materials, such as Cashmere
In all eolors, embroidered in black and white.
ha 49, Aa ah hrs In
great favor; the front fts ts the body, and the
back put in large x-plaits, which fall from
the shoulder. The eorssge Is open to the
waist, and the skirt is opened from the fasten-
ing at the waist; this style Of dress made In
velvet and trimmed with Chlnohilla or Astra-
Gao, has . very rich effect.
Laees Of all kinds are much worn. both for
dresses, bonnets, trimming, or for articles Of
outdoor apparel. Black lace is much worn in
evening dress and often accompanies white ma
terials. The colors most In vogue, perhaps not
those most worn. but at all events the most
elegant and fashionable, are greys in all
shades, the Havana brown, a peculiar shade Of
green, and q new shade Of violet Of q very blue
tinge; this last color Is expensive one arising
from some difficulty In the preparation.
Evening dresses have hardly been decided
on yet, bat We have noticed one or two very
elegant ones; they are generally made Of tarl-
atane, Chambery cause, and lace light silks
and satins being kept for older persons. Silk
undershirts are seldom worn; tarlatane or
Grape giving q much more elegant effect.
Pslstots are much worn /; Of all these, the
distingue and the most habille it Just falls into
the lines Of the waist, without being fastened,
or fitting tightly 70 1t. Shswls made in silk,
velvet or cashmere, lined with quilted silk or
trimmed with fur or lace, are very eleg antly
worn Braiding is much worn on all mantles
- A. -. IL A. Il
shoulders, from thence falling in large plaits,
trimmed either only with pelerine Of lace, or
surrounded with broad lace. We noticed q
very elegant Arab burnous In black velvet,
and trimmed entirely with lace.
For opera-cloaks, the burnous Is the most
elegant, and the most full dress. If made in
cashmere, they are embroidered or braided In
white or some other color; they are also made
In satin, terry, velvet, or in white plush this
last is very novel. The satin must be en-
broidered in satin-stitch; the terry velvet is
trimmed with passementerie or lace, and the
plush Is surrounded with q large cord, and has
tsssel at each corner. Chenille ornaments
are very fashionable both for dresses and
cIoaks.
Ribbons Of shaded velvet will be worn this
winter for bonnets, black spotted with white,
or vislet with black crossbars, seem the favor
ties at present. Artificial flowers will be in
great request for ball l-dresses this winter; they
should be mixed with lace, AleDcon, Chan
lilly, BngIish blonde. or gold and silver lace
They are placed either In large detached bo-
qnets, or In long branches on the skirt.
The bonnets made by our principal milliners
are no longer raised In z high point. They are
Distinguished from oommon-plac bonnets by
the fact Of their being rather square at the top
and very open at the sides; they are still
large, but not so large as they were. The top
Of the cap is full Of flowers, or feathers, TO-,
and the sides Of blonde or lace, are very full.
The crowns are worn either loose or plain, and
the curtain Of moderate depth. Bonnsts are
generally composed Of two different materiaIs,
Grape and velvet for full-dress bonnets; silk
and terry velvet for those Of lees dress. The
most fashionable colors are claret, green,
Cspachin-s new grey, the violet before
mentioned, and black mixed with white.