New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1861-09-30
THE FAIL AND WINTER FASHIONS.


From long Summer slumber has the world OF
New-York, after few premonitory yawns, at last
fairly awakened to its life Of Autumn gaiety aud lts
sense Of Autumn's needs.
La Modes repeille to tie faithful army is uttered IN
thunder tones andcrinolnedom, well nigh dlstraueDV
with all the ho,qOrs Of and rumOrs Of war, haS
arisen happy % be mustered masse into the RANKS
of that tyrant against whose edicts there s no "p
peal.
For "sceety" there exists no sentiment ID Au,
tumn: for u there breathes no signing whisper u
a.. yailing winds and naked woods and meadows
b,ovvn d serc 10 resonant required for the dylps
wear can reach its ear az it along the Drllhah'
Broadway pacG or gathers in the reopened teinP'eS
of dramatic asx. Autumn's proverbial sadness ID
ignored; or rather mockingy, The bier "pere D0'
it's oaid corpse hung with gorgeous drapnge OF pW
pie and gold, amber and deep crimson the hues of
ROYALTY. The cloud-iints of the seasons suAse;'
4 few chilly morning aud evening bree@es from
our old oceans bosom and faint hints OF oming
I'm ats mon the mountains, have destroyed VI terng-
paee enthusiasm, and homeward the march of Goth
aui,es takes It's way the tide on being stio y sprees
in upon the beach OF broadway.
There ia an observable sociaby in ~ post mers-
dian promepades of tkis FAIL for we NJ ss the laugh.
from our midst, and IN their stead we can only note
the modest shyness Of Northern CO untry cousins on
shopping thoughts intent These regard with open
eyed wonder our citys festive gaiety, which war
specifically scepps TO have "a sber increased than
diminished. Truly, at preseu, Millinery eclipses mill
tary display.
The Fall "oeoaings, wifi whose appointed Thurs
day the Fast day somewhs. interfered disclosed to
Al. - =. u 4 g e..
tasiic creations 10 s TO ii e selection of this crown
ing point Of her attire tn at a womans mind frat adj
dresses itse the rema der of her costume che makes
subservient 70 its demao Dis, well knowing that,
"Otan the churu 5 dear woman wears,
or all her mar! traps and snares
tAur rear efeO., there's nought compares
Nth truly aretty bonnet"
This ysar's impOseatOns fun of fresh surprises
and abrapt combinations. In size they are much
larger. With fszEnting width of brim most con-
veuient Gor the slowing away Of that mGlaHge of
flowers aud laeess rdained by Fashion. The fronts
are somewhat pointed and depressed la Marie Stu
arr, thsR which nothing can be more becoming or
piousnt One regrets, however, to see this mode
carried 70 the extent of squareness and the further
adoptios OF d figuring and unmeaning mass of one
hued towers instead Of the graceful coronets or be-
ysitcbing posies, capable of juunty disposal amid
rnass,ss of ms st-like blonde. Black enters, most
notio.ably in the fashioning of head gear, added TO
every conceivable shade Of bright colors-the aim
aprars TO DC to arrest attention by the most striking
eonxats or cutvie in briniancy the most gorgeous
tjrits of our autumnal woods. Feathers will be
tensvely employed adornmenEs for these dazzling
competitors; leaves, presenting polished steel
surface arc novel and in favor; lace, except In noat-
ing baIbes or upon evening hats is sighted, while
6cla-blossoms corD-boOms, and a mixture OF fruits
sndfowers and punches Of knot-grass ornament many
of the most stylish autumn bonnets The ribbons IN
se are ,rosty in plain, solid coors but OF admirable
ouality. Lace wells in bewildering variety are
offered TO the selection of taste adjunct TO the
hat Daring the dog day the assumption of floating
white Ioce voilettes was well nigh universal they
are. however hazardous. Only lady assured in
the possession Of hig-bred beauty and unimpeacha-
BILE freshness of complexion may safely employ them
an Aus 10 both. Those OF mixed black and white
are not open to this objections they highen beauty
or mellow impeyfections, bestowiug Undine-ish
1nis TO the features they shade. Walls also to be
obtaiaed to match hat trimmings, Of black, with
Tiny psrplc dots and white edges, being both lady
like and stylish. As a curiosity and cobweb-like
dainty may be instanced the walls Of Fayal lace,
article but lately imported and still scarce in this
county They are netted from the bers of the cen
Iury sloe are fine thought, and Of fairyike fra
gity in appearance
In dress goods the most commendable feature is
the aseendancy of plain eoIors all the seductive
possibilities of stripes plads, and intrieacies of vines
OT flowers. We owe this to the indispensibility of
lavish trimmings and in the prevalence of gored
ekirts, for which large patterned goods would be
wholly inappropriate. In heavy silks cloths, pop
Inns, repa or ottoman cloths for Winter promenade
dress, we observe some new and most desirable
shades. The rich, dark browns widely chosen
by ladies of taste, and they serve as an admirable
background for the reefs afforded by contrasting
trimmings. Black predominates more than even in
walking Costume, Lghtened by quillings founcings,
pgfhngs OF French blue, maize, green, sofferina
drg3eyite or ponoeaa the latter exquisite shsde
of scset Fo thick materials the gored skirt is uni
versai and its style 81 ;donment legion: heavy
black JlpiDgs define the seams, also broad paitings
double ruehings; one wide founce or clusters Of
rufiesiE follow the edge, while velvet bands
OF sperlative richness and extreme breadth will
form % style peculiarly dstiaga6 as the sesson
deepsGs. We hare suggestions Of cloth walking
dresses to be u1nriantly laden with furs, but that
seems Siberian in consideration while the Indian
Summer is yet in anticipation.
Plain coat sleeves invariably accompany the Puri-
tan slimDess of goreS skirts but they aerecaby di-
verified d. TIE addition of jockey aud mousque-
taire cuffs, or by novel dispositions Of trimming
Many are dis6eured by monstrous puffs, which loud.
ly demand the oldiashioned pillows of down used a