Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1861-11-05

"a. gn.q9sai elss.hc ts!sgrayL us Sioata: 10
b.sr in double Quick zine 10 arrest the lady, no
message has been transmitted thrOuChits means
TO ayenge the honor, which has been perhaps
Judged as not lost, only srrayrd, as far on the
road to Switzerland asa little beyond Lyons.
ACLANCE AT THE HALL FASHIONS.
from The New York Times
The apathy with regard 70 fashions which
Gems 10 have fastened upon those who usually
al this time OF the year are 80 deeply Interested
in its changes, has caused the accustomed open
inc dav" 10 be postponed indefinitely, # indeed
it be observed at all.
Its propriety is emphatically ignored by sun
dry prominent mOdiSteS, upon various grounds.
One grsudly exclusive madame shrugged her
lace-bcclouded shoulders, as she gave FOR bel
reason, 'it Is net good for bring 50 many ladies
together At once"
Another gave in very plain English her reason
for not making a grand display on one particular
dav, BY speaking in a burnt child sort OF way
of past experience: "You 90 90 the expense Of
importing all kinds ofnovelties; then You throw
( open your doors for all the milliners in town 10
| walk in and get your styles! Another thing, my
customers don't want to be trying on hats before
! Tom, Dick and Harry"
We could not but approve the taste OF her
customers in this respect, and were as nearly as
possible convinced of the i~nfelicity Of open
nos" when, 10 a clincher cometh-' You see,
spoke q Saxon dame, as she sat enthroned ma
I he luxurious appointments OF her parlors,
Times are vastly changed from what they were
! when Madame -- and Miss - Were
known to receive their package Of Paris novel
ties once a season, by the sailing packets, and
everybody went, ike a flock Of sheep, By what
ever they laid down as the style. NO0 we have
steamers and new arrivals constantly, and
/ American ladies consult their c0mpleXiOns and
I their own STYLE more than the fashions, and must
have everything 10 snit thai, and you see we
millinors must meet them by getting up a differ
ant article for each one. Why, Mrs. Smith would
be furioHS If YOU shOuld Offerher q hat like Mrs.
Browns So il is that the quiet advertisement
now and then, or the sending around Of the III
s%inuating circular, has, with many, taken the
place Of opening day
Stepping aside from Broadway, where brilliant
shop-windows expose at a glance what promises
within, we peep into the more exclusive domains,
where find their way the latest8n most recherche
adOrnments. The most elegant French dresses
We saw were not gored, but very ull in the skirt,
and Joined to the waist in plies Of plsits at the
hips, the front and back of the waist and skirt
being cut in one piece. In heavy material, how
ever, such as velvet, cloth and very thick silk
gored robes viii soon be worn, relieved at the
seams with quilting, piping or plating OF som
bright, contrasting color. The trimming Wll
| commence broad round the bottom Of the skirt,
and win follow up each seam as it ascends, be-
ing graduated narrower toward the waist.
Small h~oUnces, in groups OF three, viii be
DOpular trimming for dresses of thinner material.
Little change has occurred in the shape of the
sleeve-they still being finished with a small cap
and cuff, opened or loose at the wrist, as the
wearer may desire. The only noticeable change
I o II e H. - = -.
broidery of silk wOrsted or cotton, which is en-
| ployed as a finish to other trimming, or is the
sole adornment. Tn small cape of the sum-
mer is enlarged, and made perfectly round back
and front.
The corsage, in all except evening dresses, Is
very high and finished at the throat with u tiny
collar snd small bow, with ends edged with
black lace.
The " Garibaldi jacket " viii assert itself a
f~avorite with all economical ladies, rs it has the
| advantage Of being suitable TO wear with skirts
whose associate body has become 3 thing Of the
( past. It is made in red, while and blue flannel,
and is gathered full into a band Ct tle neck as
well as at the waist, which win fSkS il a re-
deeminc feature 10 many a lean foI1a while TO
plump shoulders il will be de+r0p. Tie neck is
finished with a mall collar, and the sleeve
closed into q band, or left open with q reversed
cuff. About the waist OF across the shoulders, at
option Of the wCarcT, belongs a scarf one-eighth
Of a yard in width and about two yards long,
made Of a similar material with the jacket.
Cloaks viii, in all cases, reach far down over
the dress skirt some W saw viii envelop the
| figure entirely. The circular, in various mOdih-
cations, viii prevail. The trimmings viii be
velvet, in different widths, heavy-box plating Of
the same material, and embroidered in silk or
worsted. Madame Jaubort. opposite the New
York Hotel, has Just received a style called the
'Palet0t Imperial" which viii be suitable for
light cloth six or meTiuO. 1t is closed at the
throat andneck with embroidered bands, and one
deep fnll Of lace.
brOdie exposes two exquisite circulars, one OF
black cloth, trimmed with bOT-plaitso Of the same.
and another Of zebra cloth, which, besides its
graceful flow, is q natural curiosity of tasteful
design in lis trimmings. The most striking fea-
ture is a beautiful imitation Of embroidery, made
by cutting gray cloth in the form of flowers and
sprigs, which, as il is seen against the dark
brown color Of the cloak, has he effect Of the
richest needlework. The hood is not so much
m vogue for cloaks and mantles; as the heavy
box plsits, by which the shoulder cit is secured,
are richly onamented, and have superseded its
use il dress-clOaks, although for travelling and
utility, they viii always be in demand.
In bounets, the enlarged front is an accepta-
be change, but the masses of trimming piled up
within and above the arch is stupendOus.
Primes which once waved to the breeze only
upon the outer works, and were considered no
company for many-hued ~exotics, now fall gloom
ily over the brow of beauty, were not the
shadow frightened by saUcy knots OF gay bios
soms-Gu sorts Of colors mixed up-for it seems
the red, white and blue has r~econciled our
{ eyes to forbidden contrasts.
Some hats there are, which, to be sure, are
above criticism, and persuade one that millinery
has taken its place among the fine arts. Two
specimens Of such we were shown BY Madame
p, OF Great Jones street. First was a white
tulls front, with a plisse Of green velvet round
the edge-over the crown a scarf of black lace
falling gracefully on each side, which Is fasten-
ed in the center with a turf Of shaded green
plumes. The face trimming consists of light
blond tabs across the top, with a wreath very high
in the center Of gaTnet-coloTed corc0psis.
Another Is a delicate shade of drab velvet
covered plain a broad band of rosc-du-roi vel
vet e~ncircles the crown, and comes down straight
into a cape; e very Tich plume Of the same color
crosses the forehead and falls on the outside. A
bow Of rose-du-roi velvet fsstens the plume, in
the center Of which CLEANS an ornament Of mar
castle.
The regular fall opening, should it take place
in force, VIII not be before the last of the pres
ent month, as buyers are not yet returned from
their summer jaunting, and those generous bill
makers, the southern and western ladies, do not
thrOng our hotels and shops as formerly.
The brilliant goods, however the times may
be, wilnO long await notice, and that not mere
y passing, for one must be blind and deaf who
can pass along our principal thOroughfGTes and
not see on every baud unmistakabie signs of uu-
impaired resources.
I % E1nETu sur-L TE~u - - W. 1,.wr that v-hen,