New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1861-01-14

grease, the melting and grauulssion process q y
I.ated three or four times, using pinch Of
pinch Of alum Ia each water; Ii is then to uWashed
i've or Elk times in plain water; finally, re-ael, the
fat, and cast it into PAM to free ii from adberng
water. Now put the rliriled iat int the giuepol,
and place II In suoh position near the ire Of the
greenhouse, or elewhere, that will keep IL warm
enough to be liquid into the fat throw many flow
era as you can and there let them remsn for twenty
four huuis. At this time stra;n the fat from the
sIen flowers and add fresh ones; repeat this opera
tep for week: We expect, at the las. straning the
fat viii have become very highly perfumed aud when
cold. ay be Justly termed po.nmade d la heofrope
To turn THE po0de into extract 6 for the handker
clef all hsi has TO be done is TO cut the peiuried TAT
into email pieces drop 1t Into wide-mcutbed bottle,
and cover l. with highly reetifed spirit, in which it
rust remain for a week. When strained off she pro-
cess will be completed
In this manner every flower of the garden may be
turned into genuine extract and the lady who takes
ths tronble TO perform the operation may be sure that
rEe Ioeeesoes perfume which money cannot buy from
the her! perfuuer's. Moreover she would then pos.
some individuality in her perfume Why should
we MOI know fair friends by the delicate odors
with which surrounded, as we know thein altar
off by the charm Of voice7 There 10 an appropriate
odor 20 cur minds, {, each particular character The
rIirituelle should affect jas,nine the brilliant and
witty, heliotrope; the robns tho musky otors;
and young girls jus. blooming into woTnauhood, the
roSe. Tie ctronEkv perfumes are more hled Tor the
melancholy tempe rameut and there il sad minor note
in vanilla thst the young widos shodd affect When
we study tie slhetcs Of odors, shall match nice
sbades Of character with delicate shades Of odor Why
should human feeEng be expressed better By colors
than by perfumes Meanwhile, we must trust to tho
rerfunef to ret The fson, ard to impose upon us his
bouquets at Bis own gDcd will All the fashionable
world hat little while ago wero smelling at one
nosegav In The celebrated "Ess Perfume later STILL
we have hsd imposed upon ne "Kiss-me-qaick; aud
row the Latest novelty of the soasons Stolen ki.ses
| with is sequel sB.x bis Esrs." Why are the
Meregs Pierse and Lubin so susory in thor norneu'
| cistuIef
| Beside the yxccesses OF nsNess,on snd absorption.
or geRgge ~ the French tern H. there are severai
other ucbcds OF obtaining the odors OF MOWERS,
| the PRINCIPAL of which is diSllaiion; by ths
means the essential principle the otto Of the flower
only is extracted 1t ia an old saying that we can
have TOO much OF god thing aud il ~il 10 verified
by su inspection Of perumers laboratory one 10
ant 10 think thst connvis-ur Nnebins contsia the
dear iouds in the world-old port at two guineas
bottle looks eztIevagsnt enorgh but let UP enter tho
dark litile where the ptrfnmer keeps his otos
and extracts He draws you drop OF oil OF Jssn'ne,
stile tia. il is only worth as wine-glsSs fa-he
shows YOU little bottle of otto Of rocco FROM the far
Eest. The piiucpa farms OF Europe are situated
ia the Balkan in Bulgaria and the expense VI the per-
furne risy be estimated when siae that II requires
lesst 900 blooms 10 yield angle drachm OF otso
Different districts have their own peculiar shades OF
difference just different vineyards produce different
qualities Of wine. The Provence roses oi the south
Of France have fragrance peculiarly their which
Is attributed TO the tac that tie beee carry the polish
of the orange blossoms into the rosebude and 1t 70
the delicate avorng Of the orange that this otto owes
its value The susges,ion Of the bridal Hover is IN
deed very slight but herein the charm Is constituted,
as the eating ccnnosseur we'll knew when he
aered slice of beef with hsnmy knife. Some Of
these precious ottos and extracts snet at In the bulk
are positively disguting take ciyet, for instsnces
Dot suddenly opened is enough to knock you down IL
is the infinite subdivision Of the scent Inch give, II its
true value IA n perfume. Nome astounding tales have
been told Of the perist OF scents, but We know
that come Of thef have oathved the memory Of great
empires. There ia TO be seen at Alnwick Castle in
England, q jar OF perfume ~ iess. three thousand
years DID, which still gives out perfume. We know
no better illustration OF the inhpiie dvisbiity Of mat
ter than is afforded by the history Of some of the more
persistent perfumes. But il lie not the animal porfu0e
slone that dissareeatle Ia concentrated form; all
flower odors lcts changed otto OF r1ess is
anything but nice and otto OF vioiets Is for all the
world like prUssc acid When they are diluted With
an appropriate quantity Of spirit they regain al their
drcscy just they DO when subjected To the di11n8
influence ct the gentle breeze in the summer evening
The oonceetion Of bouquets IL the triumph OF the per-
fuuers art. His must have the most delicate s
probation Of the hnrroDies that no one oior shall
outraue another, A writer In Chambers d journal
has very subtly Semarked that scents, like sounds
affect Ito oiatory in certain definite proportions
Thus there are ocyes Of odcrs, the different notes OF
which aSres with each other. Let as take helctrort,
vanilla almond and orange blersons, for instance and
we End that they possess u coynste smell There Is
smother series " fortunes which constitutes higher
octave, such citron, lemon, orangs peel, aud YER
bena. Again, we have half nctes, such as rose, and
roee-gerahum; and minor keys, such patchouy aud
viivsrt; and owert in the scale, musk and ether ami
! NAL odors strike deep bars note.
The skillfu perfumer, with this full gnmut before
! him. can make thourend different harnoncs indeed
! the combinations arc endeea but they mue be made
with full knowledge Of the art. de Can no more
tumble half dozen perfumes together, and expect to
please the nose than he could strike half dozen notes
at random and expect 10 charm the ear with the hsrno-
NOUS effects Of chord. But harmonious perfume IL
not all that il required the British public very OK
igent they want delicate yet Unmarked odor
and persistent at the same time-two totally IN
compatible qualities, for odor that stnkes power.
fully upon the nose must be very volatile one shd II
il il volatile how can II DO expected TO remain In the
handkerchief for any length Of mel II u like ealing
9 cake and expecting ~ have 1t aiterward Tue per-
funer ges oVerthe difficulty ~ making some persist-
ent odor such ~ musk vanilla, the haze OF hS per-
fume The effect Of tbs however. Is TO give the scent
two different odors the volatile perfume on is depart
ure leaving behri it the bare which IL often objected
10 as snelln "sichly." The moral Of our story H.
/ that we should not expecta delicate perfume 10 DO Two
/ things at thu came tms-volaiie and lasting.
Tie scents of the ancients were, ~ far ~ Ve KNOW
! entirely dry perfumes such nyrrb, fpikenard
frsnkincents AL gun rssins which stiii ia use by
perfumers and they uEed rather to perfume the
air than the person. although was very old custom
20 scen, the beard Ii s question purely OF taste "a
20 whether scent is allowable TO the male SEX but On
tie whole the feeling IL against ii; the fashion is Ger
tainly feminine, and long may II DO confined 10 tho
ladies' for although il would be asuperhmy to pant
The lily We may yet be permitted TO perfume the living
violet.
IL. f.otr lf.l