Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1861-01-22
From lie Follet. |


The season for grand balls has not yet com
menced, but we have already observed some
varieties in dinner and evening dresses. The
fashion is also nearly fixed for high bodies,
and the different kinds Of silk for winter wear
The Gabrielle form Of dresses is distinguish
able among the many others. The body and
skirt are made in one in front, without band
TO mark the waist. There is a decided varia.
tion In the cut this winter, and it is known by
the name Imperatrice. Last year, it was the
deep oasaque-very full, without plsits in front
or behind-a fashion that was difficult to pro-
mote. The improvement renders the robe
Imperatrice more graceful and more easily
worn by all figures and in all toilettes. In
front Ii Is formed like a long csssque, widen
ing considerably at bottom. At the seam,
nnder the arm, there wide plaits, like
other dresses, and the back is fiat and rounded
Mt the waist; the sleeves are with elbows and
turned-back cuffs
Black tsffetss, with small bouquets, are de-
cldedly the fashion this winter. The Plain
brilliant tafetss, with plain or founced skirts
a2i the moIre antique, are no longer the
''mode." Dark cOlors for bsnnets, as we'll as
dresses, are more and more in favor for dress
visits
Plush is much used for paletots and burnous,
and is preferred to velvet on account Of it's
novelty. Dresses are also trimmed with plush,
even when made of velvet, if of a sombre color,
plush, lined with blue or gold color, are very
elegant and becoming. 1t has been matter of
surprise that plush has not been more adopted
for bonnets and their ornaments; but it will
not be long before we see this beautiful ma
terisl employed for these purposes.
Bonnets have not undergone much change
in form since last month. The mixture of
black and white Is still very fashionable, al
though colors are rather gaining favor.
We must pass from the description Of bonnets
TO some Of the newest and most charming coif-
fures tor evening dress. And first of these we
mention the coifure Gabrielle distress. of
poncesu velvet, over which was rolled thick
gold cable chain, forming bows, with a bunch
of elegant white feathers at the side The
coifure Duchess d'Etampes, Of violet velvet
forming kind Of glory round the head, with
medallion Of gold lace in the middle, fast
ened with an agraffe Of diamonds, long white
feather curling at the side. The coiffure Wat
teau-shepherdess style-composed of rouleaux
and bows Of blue ribbon, with a wreath of moss
rose buds at the side of the head. The coiffure
Reeamier, having two barbes of blonde, drawn
with strips of mauve ribbon, falling in a man.
ner to resemble a curtain, and on one side a
large rose surrounded with buds and leaves
4 fat bow Of mauve ribbon on the summit of
the head. The coiffure Zemea, made with a
fulling Of Magenta velvet, with branch of
white hyacinths on one side, and the foliage.
with gold stars, placed in the midst of quilted
velvet This same style Of head dress may be
made Of black velvet, with white feathers and
gold flowers. The coiffure CastigiioDe, ban
deau Of green velvet, white daisies, and ivy
leaves advancing over the forehead in a bo-
qust; at the back, drapery of tulle illusion
crossing over soft crown. A turban cap of
tuile draps, fastened with gold cause, forming
agrages. On one side some black lace falling
over the tulle draperies, and on the other a
group of mauve anemones, with black enc
mones with gold centres, and two lunches of
green moss. Black and lace ienus are both worn
of an evening, and frequently are ornamented
with bows and ruches Of ribbon, which enliven
them, and render them very charming in ap-
pearsnce. One fichu, which is of novel style,
surrounds the shoulders, forming revers, and
terminates in front in two wide ends crossed
and falling down nearly TO the knees At the
back, it has the form Of a canezou, with a
eight point. The most beautiful are made in
guipure, with the small foundation Of the fichu
lined with a color suitable to the dress worn
the trimming also. of course, being made of
guipure. This fchu may be worn with any
dress, and is particularly becoming to the fig
ure, giving a width TO the shoulders.