The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1861-09-26
THE FALL FASHIONS.


delightful unusual thing by the way such OCCASIONS
for "openng days. generally stormy and disagreed
bic. In fact attending openn, has been for time
back test that only the ardent voarcs OF fashion
could endure without shrinking; but this season the
weather has come to the aid Of fashion and compensated
in some degree by her attrac for the falling OIL
in these semannual displays Still 1t must be admitted
that the millinery were not crowded yesterday
as we have them heretofore and though the goods
exhibited were as bright and fresh as the day. thy were
not SO superintendent former occasions. Every.
thing indicates that modlstcs shortening sail and
those among them who have wise enough TO do
time will be able when the storm has blown TO set
all sa and take advantage of the prosperous breeze that
will then set In, steady the trade winds Probably
branch Of industry has suffered from the present
disturbed stateof the country than the millinery business
for in addition to the decreased demand they have
contend against the increase in the price Of
goods caused by the Morrill, tariff Tho materials used in
the manufacture of millinery are all ported-sik vel
vet, ribbons feathers and oworsand the operation Of
the new tariff therefore, presses very heavily upon all
engaged in this business. The Increase amounts to
thirtynve per cent and in it reaches to
the incredible amount of fifty cent In the superior
class oil dry goods the duty equally heavy, dress silks
that were bought last year for six dollars yard being
now sold for nine The effect Of COURSE lessen the
from lower priced goods What permanent effect this
voluntary economy will have upon the extravagant
habits and pronounce tastes of New York fashonabes
time will show. For our part think it will only lend
force to the reaction when comes adding the zest of
novelty to the fascination OF expense.
Openings are more general now than formerly. Some
years ago they were the exception; they
the rule. Formerly they patronized by the
select few; now they are the delight Of the demo-
cratic many, Butt IN proportion as they became more
popular, they b,came less dis,ingue, and what they
gained in favor they lost in ecla. in this dilemma
OF our leading modistes have hit upon plan that
promises to combine the Earring elements, to unto
the popular and tho exclusive together in delightful
compound that will preserve the form of the and the
spirit of the other They will longer have Openings
for the general public but they will open their goods for
the inspection of their friends and patrons and
openings into what may be called Cuisines receptions
This will great deal Of useless fatigue and
munerative labor besides ami this expect is "the
moving Why" the secret spring of the revolItion it
will preserve their icas" from being pagarized and
vugarzed, from being reproduced in forms in
elegant Materials modification which every one can
appreciate.
and earlier in tho week than usua-the latter defer
ence to the national FAST which falls Thursday the
day devoted by mmemoria custom TO the 'openings"
was general opinion that there would be no mil
linery exhibitions this year; but were glad
to lind that the encouragement neither widespread
nor 80 deepseated as 10 necesstate such The
general impression appears to be that during the coming
season business will be brsker, and that when winter
fairly setsn and the Opera season commences and balls
and concefts are alternating then modstes and dressak
ers may mako up for the dulness of the past spring and
summer.
The following establishments opened yesterday
BRoADwAYMrs. Simons, Mrs. c. Levins and Mrs. J. H.
Gosson, Mrs s. r. Lovett, James Tucker, Nile Elean,
Mile Barnett, Mile r. Barnett Madame Kahn, W. Jack
son, g. W. Basford Binns, Madame lsascs, Madame De
morest.
CANAL srREzr;-Mrs. Grips, Miss j. Smith, Coey &
stendreechcr Miss Ware Mrs. Muchnock, Mrs Johnson
Mrs. Railing.
BlEgcKER SrREET.-Mrs. Davidson
SIXTH AyENUE.-Mrs. Ayers and Miss Shugg.
EIGHTH SrREET.-Misscs f. H. and T. G. Thomas.
SULLIVAN STREET-Mrs. Wright.
CATnARlNE STREEr.-Mrs Bell.
DIVISION SrfEgT-Mrs. L. Isaac, Mrs Feely W. Opcn-
hym, H. Openhym
SrRiNo SrREEr.--Mrs. Rumrill
BowERY.-A. Lzette, Till y Co.
BoNNErs.
The fall and winter bonncs about the same In shape
as the summer bonnets the front little higher and
the cape is pointed but all material points they
similar The difference consists mainly the mate.
rial and style Of trimming The most noticeable feature
abolt the fall exhibition is that the bonnes palmer
and The trimmings spafser than those in the
responding of last year. and this is In obedience
to the mandate of authority and more potent
than fashion herself In fact Mars has way into
| the miners workroom well as into the mechanics
Snop ana the merchant store and left hts mark IN the
shape of ''war prces and prces to suit the tinesr
However, the beauty of the hat has suffered from his
intrusion into the haunts of trade those who have
examined the incoming styles will admit The inside
trimming Is exceedingly pretty and becoming, being
crowded at the top Of the hat filling up the space
created by the higher arch and resting the forehead
like coronet. Generally speaking there Is side
mng-no flowers, ruchesbut The hair is braided in
broad bands and disposed TO form face trimming
far exceeding in beauty the most natural French flowers
that ever were used Tor the purpose The strings are
worn unusually broad, and would almost for trim
mngs in themselves. In this particular have
signs Of retrenchment. few hats, however, described
in detail, viii give our readers better idea of the
changes that have been made since last than any
amount of generalizing could One that struck us AZ
being very beautiful composed of black velvet with
front of shrred white silk. long, sweeping ostrich
feather, that might have transported Freigraih to
| graceful curves around the brm of the hat, and
| fell over the side as borne down by its
| own weight. The inside trimming which confined
exclusively to the top consisted of central bow of
black and Garibald color and snail ostrich feathers,
some white, some Garbadi. Garhaldi IL used consid-
eaby in trimming hats and for the benefit of those 10
whom the word is unfamiliar in this connection may
state that Garbald is compromise between blood red
and orange and that when toned down with black IL is both
effective and stylish In striking with the
just described in which "all that best dark and
bright met" of white royal velvet with cape of
the same and pointed overcape Of rich lace edged with
violet velvet. To the edge of the brm attached
triangular shaped piece of violet velvet the sides OF
! which were frnged with marabout trimming in
exquisite harmony with the delicate beauty OF the hat
The inside had no trimming whatever unless lining Of
|
| tier and purer looking a bonnet OF white
| cut velvet, trimmed with mixed marabout and
ostrich feathers placed the brm Of the hat and
caught there by bow of point dappliquc Inside lining
Of pulled illusion. Not shade Of color broke in upon the
beauty Of the designa was pale and cooriess as lily
or snowflake, and In its own way quite beautiful as
either The hats have described were in the esab
shmct Of Miss Stewart. late OF the firm Of Brown Co
This establishment has given up public opSnings' but
nevertheless we had an Opportunity Of seeing the STYLES
intended for fall and winter Another caborately bcaut
full hat from the same establishment was composed of
dotted lace, the soft and full, the side crown and
front formed of three separate pieces Of black veNetAhe
central one plain the front fashioned in Vandyke points
turning the brm Of the hat and shading the moss
roses that clustered luxurianty there the others ios;
amid the lace boulonnecs that deckei the edge Thc
t:.rd piece fringed with steel beads and black
bugles, tel! over the soft lace crown, around
the inside was quilting 81 white satin ribbon and
the side Of the bandcau Of flowers were tufts Of white
and black ostrich feathers. The strings black bound
9Th white velvet. Nothing could be beautiful ina.
the front trimming and Possessed the great ady, age
ofbeng becoming 70 every style Of face and
of complexion
Among the establishments thnt opened yesterday we
several very pretty Styles in heavy winter
materials, and others Of lighter and br yhtor
coors designed for aaumn OF course in essensiai
particulars the hats very much alike but still in
each exhibition room there sufc dissnilary in