The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1861-09-26


every class has taken step downwards and every family
have curaicd their expenses somewhat In every dry
goods house the same story il repeated and In every
millinery establishment the same Ia IL told. Retrench
ment rs the order oi the aay, aud IL IL by the
enormous increase in tho price Of all imported goods.
Silks, vevets ribbons. fca.h RS and those exquisite
s u have os a e. 10 maxi up cs, a .us
have not yet reached their cumipaiing point. 1t
happens rather unfortunately for the retrenching
principle that the style OF dress now fashionable
demands heavy, rich materials and trimmings match
to 10 1t stice, and we ar New Yo ladies' viii be
greatly exercised IN deciding tho rival Gains If Justice
ana economy, Now every one knows That justice Is
noble, unselsh principle, and that economy is at the
best mean, shabby virtue, and doubt not that every
one VIII be interested In the decision Of the ladies
inns gseat moral question Even philosophers might
degn for to take the fashions without
defcendng from their lofty position In view of the great
result.
There is material for dresses this All
the old favornes are rep silks pop
ns MORE antiques and ottoman cloths fhe coors are
Havana browns, azene blues dark green's and, above
oil and before all black.
We have seen in Lord Taylors, Stewards and other
establishments some exquisite dress goods for the coming
season-heavy rich black silks with tiny bouquets seat
tered over This pattern predomnates through every
color and is charming enough to bear repetition The
vertical stripes have takon prececs OF the Bay address,
which they have driven entirely out of the field We
know Of no material that makes more desirable winter
dress than poplin; rich heavy ard durable, they just
the thing Tor the coming season. They WILL we doubt
not BIO very popular We are pleased to see that our i'm
porters 90 not take very gsomy view o our domestic
auiiTs, u we may Judge large ana elegant supply
Of ball dresses which they have imported for the coming
season. 4
All tho large patterns and wide stripes and broad pads
are completely out Of date and only the smallest oil checks
and the neatest Of stripes considered presentabc
This Is decided improvement. The eye will no longer
be PANIED nor the taste outraged by those gorgeous par
errcs OF flowers and stripes broad carriage drive
which fashion obliged us TO admire for time The most
desirable trimmings will be vevetthc broader the bet
er-and quilngs Of silk the color Of the dress
trasting color. Velvet buttons will also be much used
Lace not so much as formerly, except ball and evening
dresses where we know of nothing that could be subst
tuted for 1t with clec-harmonzing, IL does, equally
with gossamer, tue stately alctas. Velvet Of the
thodox width will be most expensive trimming but
compensation. it will be elegant one, anu it will
look its prcea very great desideratum. Cloth dresses
have also made their appearance, and hail their ad
vent with pleasure We know Of nothing diaingue
than fine CLOTH dress, and material more suitable for
the present STYLE 81. ~
Having exhausted tho materials used for dresses, We
VIII now give our lady readers an idea of the way IN
which our fashionable dressmakers make them up.
THE SKIRT.
The skirt is the important part Of the dress 1t
may be truly said to be tho test Of its wearers taste or
preensions therefore 1t must be gored. This is nds
pensable There can be fashion with pain skirt,
OF with any skirt bu,a gored There are, know,
some who will set the dictates Of fashion ut defiance in
this respect but there awless characters in every
realm, and fashion is not the only sovereign afflicted
with unruly and rebelliors subjects. These skirts
trimmed in various ways; some round the bottom,
Others carry the trimming more than half way up the
piping in the cores These trimmings quilted or box
plated or laid on plain in various zigzag patterns,
which have very rich and striking appearance
row, very numerous, and arranged in grace
full wave pattern round tho skirt. LImperarice
is very elegant style of gored dress, in which
the skirt and cOrsage cut in piece, having
division at the waist the cores running up the
shoulder or course old ladies' and old fashioned ladies'
VIII stu cling to the round plain skirts in preference to
Hoop skirts have taken new lease of public favor;
they are absolutely Indispensable under the present
regmethe wide skirts and long could exist
day without them.
THE CORsAGE.
The corsage Is made high to the throat and plain,
trimmed with buttons ribbon bows in front. This is
the popular style but we are not confined to this
We have the Grecan waist with folds from the belt to
the shoulder, and the shape waists and the Monies
pan. THIS, with the lmperatrice which we have de-
scribed already gives ample room for the display of
every taste.
THE SLEEVE.
great deal depends the shape Of the sleeve: it
ought to be always carefully selected with view the
other parts of the dress Many sleeve rreproachable
in shape and trimming when regarded unit, will,
when taken connection with the other component parts
OF the dress prove to be very questionable taste and
sometimes in decidedly bad taste The sleeve all its
varieties and tho tight sleeve with pufngs the
top the most suitable for the gored skirt They have
the quaint look which have a right To expect. We
have kind Of full sleeve which would look very be-
coming with the skirt 1t Is plated at the shoulder
pped with the used in the skirt piping would
give look Of unity the entire dress that could not fail
please taste The sleeve and the loose
pulled sleeve are still 10 be seen but they are decidedly
pdssee.
JEwELRy.
In Tinanys some very pretty novelties mark the nd
vent of season. Prominent among these gold
collars very decided and very effective novelty One
is perfect collar in shape the back, pointed
in 'front.' and apparently fastened with large amethyst
brooch rom which n nen Of
material Another ornamented with diamonds and blue
enamel, has elegant and costly look, and have
doubt both will BE- duly appreciated by New York
fashionabIes In the establishment they have sets
Of onyx, which form very chaste and elegant OF
ornament and when set with diamonds they frequent
y the effect Is very beautiful the contrast between
the sparkling stones and the dark groundwork reminding
one OF Jewels on Ethops arm.' The diamonds
arranged in every variety OF form: radate from
centre, others in separate clusters like scat
tered stars; here they in concentric circles there in
hard angular forms; but IN every shape, rigid
curved, and in every condition, social soil.
ary the diamonds assert themselves and shine with the
genuine usre Jewelry, like every other branch of in
dusry suffers from the universal depression and be
purchased cheaper now than at any time for years past
We saw some novelties in Tiany,s which, though they
do not come exactly under the head OF cwery very
attractive and excite small share These
entire camp servicesplates, cups and saucers,
dishes, sugar basin, milk pitcher casters and every
requisite for breakfast and dinner-made tim which,
when longer required, arranged in order in the
table that, by some simple process transformed at
once into box, afiordng room for all the articles
have enumerated and for good sized cooking stove be-
sides with al It's furniture and belongings Wherever
go evidences Of, the stare in the face but
certainly the very last place in which expected to
them TiIanys. How strange these contrieances
to make camp life comfortable for the soldiers OF the
Union looked beside the expensive and costly
objects Of vertu scattered in endless prouson every
side.
MOURNING.
Mourning as much subject to the caprices Of fashien
any other style of Dress and look for and expect
much artistic excellence these sombre bued establish
ments in their gaycr rivals Custom has authorized and
has sanctioned the admission of some other coors,
which relief TO tho sad monotony black and
MAX the dividing line between the deep grief
the soothing IN. nence Of time. Moreover badly made
hat or dress is not nessay proof of true sorrow any
than fssbonable one Is u infallible sign q
cold, untee ling heart For part consider that y
handsome suit OF mourning leaves the mine fe TO COP
cenrac all its grief upon It, loss, and allows the wearer
to meiin, we may be permitted to uae ths phrase, VIII
iron legitimate channels and instead of bringing balm
and Isolation TO the soul they 'water hut th. desert"
We have seen some very handsome mourning hats in
JacksSns, Ahch we shall cndeavor to describe for the
ecit Of theet vac had opportunity OF attending
the "openngs." \ hat which very deservedy adj
med was made ofp0rplc velvet, trimmed with marabout
feathers and wSc lace; inside trimming, clusters of
black and whne grapes and punches If snowdrops.
Another al back vevet laid plain the foundation and
e.. .x, In nf.s H. H. -t--