New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1861-09-30

leyed by small medalhons OF oohe' no, crimson, or
cold or sprinked with bright pom ,adcur poses Be-
aide these. there has been oyival of changeable
or shot silks those transincen combinations so char
scteristic of highly sensitiv nervous organizations
which should never be ,ssn by stod unimpreseible
persons, but conseer ted 10 the noble army Of fem
nine martyrs TO "rerves" One of these new old
styles which seizeI Vpo attention was of peculiar
sea-green tint EVgded with rosy gray; silvery,
saly shp inner senied to dissolve the hues, and the
toate assemble suggested the morning suns rays
glanc' ng upon dying dolphins back, which, in its
last agonies, Displays these marvelously prsmatic
SS AIDES. Another cleaned in
"a elorv OF cold and blue
WSShe changing wake Ike the sheen Of blade"
Thesesilks are susceptible Of most telling deeora
tons BY an admixture of the two colors formed in
double beaiiionees.
Evening dresses, whether for simple at home
tolettes for festive gatherings, exhibit tendency
toward the fantastic, and are as full OF caprcious
ecnceits as costumes for a fancy ball. few seasons
ego, tres decollete robes with floating sleeve drapery
predominated; then TO triaes of bodices, iacesur'
mounted were allowed suspicious of sleeves; short
ly, sleeves were abolished except so far as narrow
shouider-strap, with fis of lace, shadowed an IN
tenlion and at present the sleeve j, wholly done
away with. The peasant-fke corsage ID finished
with rucheings or as often merely consists of small
pointed ceia,ure.
The end gained s that Of tasteful modesty and pic
tuIesqueness Of style-the necessary high.throated
spencer being fashioned Of exquisite lace, inserngs,
or tale, with dainty pufhngs, and relieved by che
nile or narrow velvet bars, presents coqueitish
and entirely charming novelty of effect. To ladies'
deficient in eaboApOiat, it spares the exposure OF
unovely members whose intrusion into notice La
Mode until lately most imperatively commanded as
she penalty of iul dress Constructed of costly aces
these speacers are admissible joined to the most s-
perb mores or costly vevets. For misses, fine TILE
or taretane dresses are made with waist and sleeves
of the same, pufed and trimmed to match the skirt,
and are wolu with velvet centuries, sashes frnged
or embroidered
These are a return TO good taste and impart TO
youthful beauty virginia. simplicity most refresh
ing in contrast 10 the thick satns and unyleldlng
brocades in whose folds too many unwisely fond
rnammas have thought Mt 10 robe the slender forms
of de5YtaRtes in society. Except for matrons OF
stately style the sif pretenousness of heavy silks,
mcre antique and velvots should be tabooed for
only ones suitable.
There was something of fitness in still, cracking
brocades as they rnstled in the courtly minuet of
yore, which dignifed danes in pomp of powdered
hair walked with regal reserve, led by cavaliers who
bowed before them with prm obeisance; but for the
giddy present-day polkas, the fierce German, the
tarantula-ike galop, one needs drapery light the
floating film Of a sea-nymph's garb. Therefore let
sand-aone taiIeas to their chaperons until the age
of dian ond parures, point lace and camels-hair
shawls may be claimed by them. YOUTH health and
beauty need only their own priceless jewels, and
they arc more precious than any that glitter meath
the plate-glass Of Ball s. Black, or Tiilanys show
cases.
Apropos of jewels the latest novelty in the way
of head ornament is to be found in the ieweled in
sects whose outspread wings Hutter above flowers,
or are used combined with velvet 6dHdeau1 or airy
feathers. Flowers, also fashioned of gold Glagree
work. studded with jewels, are formed into brilliant
wreItbs but these last TOO costly except for the
millionaires of our Republican Court. As harmo-
NOUS completion to the hlmy, transparent toees de
| s0ir, every one at once admits the supremacy Of
| flowers. These are worn in coronals, usually with a
large rose other p,oaonoG flower resng star-like
above the forehead. Long ribbons, carelessly con-
fining these gurlandes, are youthful and becoming
! A caprice of La Mode exhibits itself in recent
rage for peacock feathers headdresses, their min
gled hues of green and gold producing decided nov
city Of effect Were it not for their inevitable
citation with fy-brushes TO the fashion might be
corded sentimental sanction.
| But those transatlantic danes who indulge in the
Haunting birds plumage dazzle ones gaze from their
too close inspection by the assumption in full toilette
of broad gold collars instead Of the dainty fairy craft
of costly Point dAlencon, the first work Of deHttie
| deBru1eles These ornaments are the ne plus ultra
of folys fashions freaks, and cannot fail Of being
received with favor in our country Tiffany has the
honor of first introducing them to American notice
They wonders eff haDdicraft, and are wrought in
fiat links, or open chain work, pliabe enough 10 fol-
low the of the snowy throat they caress, and
are easped with rare sigrstes Of diamonds or other
jewels tasefully disposed. The lace which is thus
deposed may b. discovered arranged in foam-Eke
sprays upon the rounded edges of my ladys rich slk
fan. Amid courty rrihes there comes 10 us one full
OF significance, at this season especially the aamOa-
ere. oramsbsg. 1t is a revival of fashion apper.
tanning to the Middle Ages, when each lady Of the
castle with her fair bands distributed argese TO
her dependents. At the French Court they are car
red, made Of silver gold fastened the belt with
ornamental chains; but far lees prosecutions and
tasteful pouch ofvelvet morocco, beaded, braided
or otherwise ornamented, and depending by cords,
will be found convenient alms-bag frosn which to
draw those " mites which may return laden with
blessing "after many days
Fashion, always tickle, this season proves herself
faithful to the proverb, On Tecieat togjOars