The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1861-03-22

stuI dy oak to ha. Of the delicate Oriental palm Ihs
just freshly gathered and the black groundso q
the hat ttood out In bold relief. The inside trim utne
was composed Of volets azaas aud lilies of the valley
embedded In lace Nor must we omit TO mention very
elegant and stysh hat formed c embroidered white y X
with maJabout plume caught at the brm and falling in
. graceful sweep over tho bonnet inside trimming, Q
flower Of the new, rich shade known sublime red,
tempered by green leaves, aud set IN black lace Nor
rent front' across which was disposed wreath Of
par ses the flowers being arranged 80 as to form
heading for the cape nsde the tiny delicate lilies OF the
valley Rhned through blades Of grass and we're nnaly
lost amid clustering paIsy leaves encirclng solitary
specimen Of that flower. which seemedso natural vas
ito grow under the shelter Of that protecting brm
We also observed very elegant Leghon hats looking
hats OF thai material always do when properly
trimmed, lady Ike and distinsue.
On the whole have never seen an "opening'' thai
better deserved and il 70 be regretted that
such unreasonable weather should have set In Just IN
time to It. However, business people should learn
TINS Lesson from such untoward event and remember
u neat BarshH the equinox will not defer To them,
they must defer to the equinox
DRESSES.
One of those important revolutions which take place
sometimes in the empire Of Fashion, wen as in the
realm Of any other potentate has sprung upon Hs
triHng innovation, slight alteration, inccnsde
rable addition but radical fundamental change. The
full fkrt which the present generation much affected
has been repudated and In Its place have the quaint
old fashioned gored skirt Of grandniotners and great
grandmothers. The premontory symptoms OF this
change have been apparent TO the observing phlosopc
eye In the gsrcd outer garments in which ladies Rave
perambuated Broadway for some lime past. The moral
st and the politician may both deduce useful lesson
fre this fashionable revolution; and IL is this that
while the lesser lights of fashion were trng way their
time and distractng public attention, 1nctuatlug be-
tween the admssbty Of bes waists and pointed Tasts
flowing sleeves tight sleeves the real point OF danger
overlooked and their insignificant local sobve and
waist squabbles were overwhelmed in the general ca,a
clysm which has fallen upon US. SO even changes in
dress may point mofalO
But we do not hesitate to cay that, Ike all sensible,
practical people we give in our adhesion TO uie powers
that be- and venture 10 assert that the gyrcd skirts
viii, when they become, as it were, naturatzod among
be very popular with New York ladies' Toe quaint
little pockets which were especially pon ed out To us 10
Taylois as the fitting receptacle the display If
handsome handkerchief, used in the times or our
same 10 many a closet rich in preserves and sweet
meats and many bureau well stocked with household
linen but snch vulgar things as keys could never be as
shallow, too saperlcal-they lack the depth,
the profundy the liberal, hospitable look that was
ancient days AS TO materials they CONSIST o. the usual
summer styles, o'gandiee pineapple silks, barcges,
mixed fabrics suitable Tor warm weather. Dark color
heavy silks not out Of place yet nor will they be
for the next month; but the majority of silks on exhibit
ton Of course chosen with reference TO the coming
season. and ss OF all those gay brig ht coors which
We associate naturally with sunny skes and green
fields For outer garments we have rich, heavy rep
silk or light cloth eli axis for spring wear and for SUM-
have lace mantllas and black silk pardeesds
We have aI,o eesn some lign; gauz looking shasi.
Of all coors and embroidered in s1na bouquets the
colors contrasting prettiy with the self color of the
shawl But leaving genersltes aside, shall give
lady readers some Interesting details the present
sye in which dresses are made, an 70 which all well
ftfpg that the skirt which has elsded this important
revolution shoula take the pas The efoTe We sha
mence with 4#
THE SKIRTS.
The skirt worn long ever railing little in the
back, and very full at the bottom, where il
vavde width The ekirt ie and each gare
s pped generally with color tnat contrasts taste
fully with the dress, IL be tgrrei elk, the pre-
valipg color of the pattern lie used for piping Soe
theee skirts are nade nouncss lmost tho Waist
others with alternate folds and cos; but acne
r6y mncsdsd thas shs uost dssnypus those which
have three four small hounces, rather fris aorrd
the extreme end Of the skirt This permits the graceful
sweep Of the skrs be plainly distinguished and IL the
cores are pped with contrasting colors, the gay dT
sity not concealed. Two tiny pockets arranged
On the front breadths, which are plain, and
or trimmed with noeuds of ribbon velvet Any mis-.
guided individual consong himself or herself with the
idea that this style will take less naeria will sysn lind
ou, their mstake dress measuring yards rsni
the edge OF the skirt will not be very economical one.
There Is stl another way or trimming the skirt wikc,
ing carried the gores thus dev clipping another ~
Of ofdispospgof the material, which appears to be the
cury that the hoop skirts win still be Indispensable ,r
the gored skirt requires kind Of frame TO chow ls
proportions.
THE coRsAGE.
The cofsage may be considered kind Of appendags
to the skirt, being frequently cut out with it in the one
piece. II is made high 70 the throat, and generally
without trimming. The only kind which this
style admits Is surpce trimming crossing the shoulders
and terminating at the waist II sometimes extends as
az In front as the pockets.
THE SLEEVE.
There is nothing arbitrary abou. the fashion Of the
In tha or he
reg ,rded as free All the varieties which hsve Pleased
and puzzled for the last twaor three st 70
maiA the flowing the sashcd, the pued the Georgian
and oany others The latter s very handsome spec
men the genus flowing sleeve, whose varieties al
most nhDi,e
MASTILLAs.
The arety and beauty OF the goods In this department
merited better day for their exhibition. Tnsy are
without exception the richest, handsomest and most
varied tn II had the pleasure to inspect The
materials plain and rep silk, Ugh. cloth, fancy cloth
Of various patterns and scattered among these bs
found fev lingering plaids. Among the many beautiful
specimens be seen Lord Taylors We particularly
admired on,, which is adapted for summer It Is a
long loose cloak, of black silk without sleeves some.
hal in The rcuar STYLE II has neither cape nor col
lar but pa ted at the neck, and trimmed around the
and GoN the entire from, With broad rgche Of
quilted satin RI ,pon. This cloak both simple and es
CANT. In N, same establishment they had on
exhibition q osgDifcent black silk cloax, worth
eighty dollars IL made with ing sleeves, drawn
up a little in mon and trimmed with buttons. Tns beau
IL Of this cloak insisted IN dcop cape OF guspure lace,
which, instead Of ending the waist such capcs ge
neray do was ca ntnuoc Down the 'front.' Of the cloak,
narrow at the waa aud widening gracefully 70 the hem
The Japanese coAS recalled Oriental friends and
is worthy OF its nam les square sleeves into the
cloak sqnarely aid without any compromse--thas Il
without any shapDg- and Its three asss a the back OF
the neck It's broad IN mining down the fronts and rouni
the sleeves proclaim loud the propriety Of ts rame
The Conpen,ara n N cloak OF black six whose prn
cipal peculiary loose sensible LOCKING hood in
tended evidently for usa was gathered ~ tho back
and fastened with two n cttes, while the frout came
down pointed 20 the ast. Every variety of taste
could be suited In this department, sor there
IL every variety Of style. We have seen
black silk coaks piped with white, others
stiIcbe with white, and ny piped with green, purple,
blue and various colors. new material called, very
appropriately, leopard cloth y made pretty and suit
ab.o outer rment for sprint wear Among the coas
and mantilIas Tor mourning which We N Jacksons
he o one which wo GA mot pass over wi,hoat DO.
scrbing. II was large, fun s'zei mantilla made "
baraihea sz, rounded az The back and trsmmef
with deep folds Of Grape The graceful frness wnich
fell the kpt from a generating into cunsi.