Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1860-08-21
On the Wing.
Coyrsspondeaee Of The Star.
GLEN HOUSE,, WHITE MOUNTAINS,

August 10, 1866.
CANADA WRsr-HAMILToN AND ToRoNro-CA.
MADAM CosrUMEs-MR. GRApeRIND ON THE ST
+ LAwRENcK-SHoorINe THE RArIDs-MoSrRR-
AL-QuEBEc-THs GRAND TRUNK RoAD-
THROUGH VERMONT AND NEw HAMPSHIRE TO
THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 81 S
Dear Star: Leaving Niagara Falls for the White
Mountains cia Montreal and Quebec, took the
land route to Toronto, that might have an OBJ
portunisy to see something Of Canada w es.. and
more particularly Of Hamilton and Toronto Both
OF these cities are set down In the guide books and
gazeteers as active business places and rapidly In
creasing In population and wealth. Consequently
was surprised to find Hamilton ruined city, as
1t were with every branch Of business comp letely
p-ostrated It ia estimated that not less than half
the tenements and stores in Hamilton are for
rent at the present moment and that not less than
ten thousand persons have left the city for Sc the
| States" since December last. Probably the num-
bers have been over-estimated, but 1t is certain
| that the city is in bad way at present. And vet
| 1t has so remarkably commanding position, at
the head Of the western extremity Of Lake Ontario,
aud with such superior railroad connections by
the Grand Trunk road, Toronto and Montreal
way, and the Great Western road, towards the
States, that it was considered five years ago to
have the most brilliant prospects of any city in
that part Of the western country.
This decay Is attributed to various causes but
the one dwelt mainly is the crushing TAXATION
brought about by the mismanag ement Of the
governing or influential Glass. For instance.
water works, by which the supply is brought
from Lake Ontario, have been constructed at such
cost that the city Is at its wits end to pay even the
interest upon the money. What the city has done,
however, lie done well. The buildings are su-
Perior in material and thorouehness Of construc-
ton to anything we can show in the States In the
same proportion, being mainly Of stone, and put
up as IL for all time. The same NAV be said of
Toronto and Montreal. Toronto found labor ny
| to some extent under the same business depres-
| sion. Many houses were up for rent but there
| seemed to be some Improvements going on, es-
pecially along the wharves. At Toronto took
| the lake steamer for Kingston, and found myself
among swarm Of the tourists who are lust now
avaling themselves Of the round trip tickets issued
by the Grand Trunk road to visit Niagara Falls,
Montreal, Quebec, &c. Quite sprinkling OF
Canada folks were noticeable in the crowd indi :
Gated to some extent by accent and peculiarities
Of costume. .,'
The Canadian bucks are all wearing canvas
(salcloth) shoes for GOODNESS, and these being
snowy whiteness, give an exceedingly barefoo,ed
look 70 the wearers till one gets used to the kink
They also Patronize colored shirts with white COL
lars, parti-colored hats, and other oddnesses of
costume These, in conjunction with supdry
Great Britainous peculiarities - leg Of mutton
whlskers, ruddy color, perked-up noses, bagpy
trowsers, &c, &c, mark them quite distinctly
from the somber-costumed Yankeedoodles on
board. The Canadian girls wear the turban hats
as worn by their cousins of Albion. and have a
wrinkle Of their own for travelling purposes In the
shape OF peajackets Of the coarsest and heayi. At
materials possible -rre Or.
At Kingston we made the usual change of beats
for the passage down the st Lawrence. the lake
boats not being suitable for the river navigation
We entered among the thousand Islands early in
the morning, and there was general tumble up
and turnout of the passengers to see these world
renowned wonders Of the upper st. Lawrence
There was a leaden sky, however, with unfayor-
able lights, and the islands didn't show up well
was almost tempted to sympathize with Mr.
Gradgrind who was on board, and who made the
following observation: r
Gradgrind ito wife of his bosom) &c NV dear
let's go to breakfast now, and be ready for the
81 seeing when We come to it." I'll --
Wife Why, dear, we are in the most inter
esiing part;' .-r--Ff-S
Gradgrind -"Are We! Consulting his guide
book hurriedly) Why, so we are -..ar-
Even Mr.. Gradgrind though was forced to ad-
init that there was something In IL az we com.
menced shooting the rapids; and in going down
'the Long Sauhn more or less Of the ladies felt.
or imagined they felt, really a-sck, from the
tossing Of the boat I'm the boiling current The
excitement eliminated at Lachine, when the
canoe of the celebrated Indian pilot, Batste.
shot out from the shore and that worthy mounted
the steamers side, and taking his stand by the
quarte'te OF robust steersmen required at the
wheel In these toublous waters, entered upon
tne serious business Of taking the steamer down
the dangerous channel to Montreal
But these and other matters of interest on and
about the st. Lawrence, have been 30 fully and
graphically described by the Editor of the Star,
In bis letters Of last summer, that shall venture
to touch upon them but lightly. The Montrealers
were busy with preparations for the reception of
the Prince Of Wales, triumphal arches (sha,u
affairs Of wood, covered with muslin) were being
erected at the corners Of all the principal streets
an Immense ballroom Of our Fourth of March,
Inauguration sort, had been improvised; the
snaoby statue to Nelson was being touched up
with fresh ssucco and paint, and general titriva-
ton OF the whole city was going on. To all out
side appearances the disposition to do honor TO
the Royal family was universal. An explosion
which took place but night or two ago at the
meeting Of the Montreal city councils, indicates,
however, that this is only surface smootbness.
The row broke out In consequence Of PROPOSE.
ton by some patriotic member TO substitute the
name Of Victoria Square for that Of Commits.
honers Square, and the French Canadian Cd.
posing members are said to have expressed their
dissent with extraordinary violence and bad tenn.
per- Montreal presents a thriving, business as.
pect, although most Of is shipping is now away,
not yet returned from what is called the frst OF
spring voyage Of the year. Cd rs ai,t tas
~ Quebec, which reached by the st. Lawrence
mas much more shipping visible about It's wharves.
and the display Of lumber in the acres of rafts
moored along the banks Is wonderful spectacle
to the eye OF the stranger, but ON landing the
difference between the live city Of Montreal and
the half alive city Of Quebec Is at once manifest
The business Of the Grand Trunk road at Point
Levi, opposite Quebec, gives an animated appear
ance to this locality, much more 20 than IL oil ee
able at any point Of the city itself The Grand
Trunk seems to have done much to quicken I'm.
dustry and open up new markets and feeders both
for Canada and Maine, but is financially In bad
way itself, having been, like the Hamilton water
works, perhaps, Of unnecessarily expensive con-
IT.