The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1860-09-21


IN arm that not too thin. Another style, which looks
like the coat sleeve trimmed q made With succession
Of gradcsssd pu sxsndins fron the shoulder 70 the
and turnedup sun and the odasque, which has decided
advantage in display ing rich undsrsssvs and another
II win Be very hard for our fair readers 70 choose among
this yariety-this penbarrds des rieAes.
THE SKIRT.
Nounces the nrst style for tho coming season,
some small and numbering many nine the skirt;
others In direct opposition TO this have two deep ounces
and sort Of amagamaton Of the two styks have
ones Double skirts will be sssn osner in the bali room
than the 1ototr Plain skirts necessity for heavy
material, such q more antqus and watered siks, and
they will be worn in lighter silks also, - q matter Of
choice, BY many.
In this department the warm winter cleaks are not yet
TO be seen, but understand that plaid win be very
much worn in all the different styles OF outer garments
We have seen some very suitable articles for the present
season made Of heavy rep silk kind Of sack shape, with
loose flowing sleeves and pointed collar, trimmed with
wide braid gimp. slashed up the side and laced
with heavy cord, from which hung massive tasses The
front Of the cloak also embroidered with cord AMI
altogether IL looked very handsome and Hungarian Ike
This reproduced in other materials and with equal
success. Tho bournous made OF velvet. with quilt
ed silk yoke and will be very expensive The quantity
Of velve which viii be required to make Of these
al piece-socount for this, but IL viii be all the
desirable for those reasons In every department Of dry
ser In mourning we have seen very pretty cloak called
the "Rensallear." II was made Of heavy mourning silk
and !rimm.d with two fold. Of Grape. II was slightly
some crochet tfmming Tho aIAdy Franklino was
similar 70 The aRsnsaear but the cape Is unlike as t
possibly can b. II 10 bertha shaped, and extends
Grape rose with drops and buttons On the shoulder and
front II Is pointed and trimmed in the Same manner
CANT, in csnei's haE cloth, with craze trimming. ~
YLowIRs.
Winter, with its balls operas, concerts and evening
parties, the season, par excellence, for artificial flowers
Then "wreaths that cannot fade, and flowers that blow
with most success when al besides decay are In re-
quest and this winter, with It's thronging amusements
they win be In greater demand than In view OF
this act those who cater for the public taste in this de-
parment have made greater preparations than usual
and the result 10 TO be In the different esabnsh
ments devoted to this speciality In fuckers they have
some exquisite trimmings for ball dresses. One, in the
form Of chateane Of any color that would harmonic
with the dres, struck being particularly elegant II
nrst caped at the shoulder then the corsagc
and caught M the waist, and, sweeping in
graceful curvc across the skirt, 10 lost q. length
IN the bouquet that loops up the over skirt
Floral headdresses are Of all hues and Of many
Of all for agrees almost equally with the brightest and
the gravest coorswith the brilliant scarlet with sober
gray or with snowy white. One wreath, that looked
II designed for . bronze Ggure was worthy OF especial
praise the leaves vencd with gold were admirable, and
racsive. Another made Of maroon danas and White
tea roses, was the very opposite Of tie last but would
better suit some styles than It's grave simplicity others
again were composed OF scarlet velvet wound round
with gold cord, and had quite Oriental appearance
Some were fashioned in simple circets, in demi-
II would be aimOs, Impossible 10 enamerate bali the
forms which the flowers were made 10 assume, and st
more difficult 70 determine on casual inspection which
was the most graceful.
MOURNING.
There great deal Of novelties IN mourning goods
this season more indeed than ever remember - have
before. To enumcrate, In wool alone
we have Duchess cloth, bomhazette Empress cloth,
mels hair T. very desirable ms,araD, Norwich chac,
spansh rep n style identical with rep slk), Bspoor
cloth Velour and othcrs To six, gros dAfr1ue, gros
dc Rhn, gros royal, &C. Al mourning follows all tho
limitations OF fashion, not surprised 70 ni gi
mixngs with the sombrc lines that form the outward
show Of grief It docs not appear indeed, 10 deep
pes, and even In sight mourning 10 rather tolerated
than sanctioned. However, Hscaet permitted 10 ese
It's way in why no, god' MournIng millinery aud sAsh.
cnabe millinery arc, OF course, Identical sire, form
and general arrangement. Therefore what hare said
concerning the shape Of the front the style Of the
and form Of the cape, under the heal Of bounets,
win Apply 10 mourning hats as well. Having
promised this much, VIC win proceed 10 describe
some mourning hats which were on cxhbi.
ton yesterday at Jeckson's mourning store. Widows
bats invariably pa1-rot only devoid on ornaments,
but amost destitute Of TRAINING few folds Of heavy
Engsh GRAPE laid Gat on the foundation 10 the only at
tempt at trimming that taste permits or cus,om au.
horizcs. In these hats there s nothing 20 describe
seoad mourning very handsome ~ oSs made al q b.es
uncut velvet, plain on tho and arranged the
ioni 10 sroaps q Folds placed lsps.a.ss q LITTLE ds
lace bouquet Of ostrich feather flowers, ntermngcd
with black velvet heartscae strcaked with gold formed
lets, with gold centres, that pcepcd from amid the
clrcirG ruche, looked equally effective and bccom-
Ss s''n'u trimmed oaade a rs Ss pgrps pa
black cord, and bunches Of berries and velvet
ps ds - ws
cluster Of gancDg ebon berries Of the deepest cbon hue
called forsk many expressions Of admrason ssn
velvet and trimmed with rich lace ooTare dotted with
mrabout The cape and orim were edged with thick
and violet formed thc outside trimming me fsce trim.
ming was volsis and clusters Of gold and jct sps IN
q plain black sf srmmed with scsrfs emsroissrsd With
beads, were much admired, and others trimmed with
mixed osirch and marabous feathers arranged IN the form
of coronet
There never Jet has besu, and u 10 doubtful
whether there again VIII be, such q d1-
PLAY Of jewelry win b witnessed Il the grand
ball which 10 10 Be given 70 the Prince Of Wales
On hai occasion the ladies' win appear In al their wealth
of ornaments, and We doubt the heir 70 the British
throne has ever betcId anything gorgeous mag
nacens than win bc presented 10 bis dszzed vision
this occasion. There nothing IN which our New YORK
bellies exravagant for lady Of any prcterson
70 fashionable segnnce considers herself dressed without
full set o. the most costly ewsry 10 this particular
they said 70 be fsstldious than the as,o-
cratic of thc far tho other side o. the OCEAN;
and have heard OF some who possess over hun.
dred thousand IN the form Of bracelets, necklaces,
rings, brooches and other pvscscr Of Ike
description. with all the acknowieivef genius OF The
Pisian workmen, with all sbundant resources 0f
their art stic SKILL they frequently unable 4, satisfy
and dcmapds of the ir but cxactnr daurhers
of The rrcst rcrubc In consequence Of their arious
tsstc In this important part'culr very considerate
amount of the ewery disposed ef IN The American mar