The Nevada Democrat., 1860-04-04
Bayar,l raylor,s visit 20 Nevada.

CAlliOrnla, bayAru IAylOr gives tue lolloWiu8
sketch Of his visit to Nevada:
Another hour, over rolling, well-timbered
region, 1000 feet above the sea, and crossing
the brow Of the hill. We saw a large town be-
low rs. Blocks Of brick buildings, church
spires, suburban cottages and gardens, gave
it quite an imposing air-but war and tempest
seemed to have passed over the surrounding
landscape. The hills were stripped Of woed,
except here and there single pine. which stood
like monumental obelisk amid the stump
head-stones of its dead brethren; the bed Of the
valley Was torn into great holes aud burrows !;
and wherever the eye turned, It met with glar-
ing piles Of red earth, like redoubta thrown up
in haste and then deserted. This was Grass
Valley, famous in the annals Of mining; and
such are the ravages which the search for gold
works on the fair face Of nature.
Descending into the tswn. we found macada-
mized and vatered streets. and plank sidewalks,
respectable hotels, . theater, express Offices,
and all other signs Of q high CIVILIZATION. Here
the young woman called John (every Chinaman,
male or female. is called John" in Callfernia)
left us. Mails were delivered; and we bowled
along over broad turnpike TO Nevada. four
miles farther. The approach TO the town along
the steep bank Of ravine. is very striking
The houses rise along the opposite banks, en-
both sides Of latera! ravine, sending out irreg-
ular arms up the hills, to the foot Of n conical
peak, called the "Sugar Loaf" which overlooks
1t. But for the red brick, should compare II
to some Syrian city. Around 1t there is bar
ren, dssolated space full Of yawning gaps, and
piles Of naked earth, with here and there q
young garden interposed; and over all-like a
raised run TO the basin In which 1t lies-s forest
Of pines. The place Is q little larger than Grass
Valley, having about 1900 Inhabitants.
We found comfortable quarters in Mr. Ian
casters fre-proof tavern. The afternoon was
devoted principally to repose, as my days
work had to be done in the evening. An audi
ence Of more than three hundred assembled in
the theater, which, % the tickets cost dollar,
was equivalent to double the number ut home.
With the exception Of San Francisco, the atten-
dance was the best found In California. In
character, the people resembled the eommuni-
ties of the Western Statss-genal, impulsive,
quick, antieipativs even. Professional takers
will understand how pleasant is an audience OF
this character.
Having expressed great desire to get
sight OF the central chain OF the Sierra Nevada.
Mr.. Rolfe proposed an excursion along the main
ridge, which runs parallel with the South Fork
OF the Ynba, up to the T-uckce Pass. We start.
ed early the following afternoon, designing to
reach point some eight or ten miles distant.
whence the highest peaks OF the northern Ser-
ra could be seen. Behind Nevada, an admira-
BILE road, cut along the side Of the hill, leads of
In north eastern direction for two miles, grad
ually mounting 10 the summit Of the ridge. The
unbroden, primitive forest thea received us.
Pillars, two hundred feet high and six feet Ia
diameter, straight as lance, and tapering as
gracefully as the shaft OF the areca palm, rose
on all sides far above mingled the tufted
boughs, admitting only chance beams Of sun
shine, which struck 10 slanting lines Of gold
through the fragrant, sbadowy air. The road
was rough, rutty, fathomless bed ofdust but
elsewhere the dry earth. was hidden under q
carpet Of yellow ierns. Where the ridge fell of
ON either side, the SUBMITS of the trees below
formed an impervionS canopy which shut out
the distant view. We drove several miles
through the aisles OF this grand natural calhe-
dral, before which the pillared ball Of Karnak
and the aspiring arohing Of the minister of
Cologne sink into nothingness. No Dorc col
umn could surpass In beauty of proportion
those stupendous shafts They are the demi-
gods Of the vegetable world.
Here and there we saw small clearing, or
saw mil--the blasphsmous dragon which lays
waste these sacred solitudes--or a tavern, pat
rOnized by the teamsters who traverse this road
on their way TO the upper diggngs near the
source OF the Yuba. Still further on we we're
surprised by fierce roaring sound, and the
sight OF scarlet CLEANS Of fire, flashing out Of
the shades. The giant trunks stood scornfully
In the midst OF IT, secure Ia their bulk, but the
underwood and the dead bo0ghs which had fall
en- snapped and cracked, as the flames lcaped
upon them. We drove through the midst Of it,
and on ferny knoll beyond, saw whence 1t
originated. A company Of Digger Indians,
halfnaked, lay upon the ground. They had
been burning dead body aud. according TO
their custom, had plastered their hair and
cheeks with mixture OF pitch and the fat rem
dered out OF the dear departed, as token Of
sorrow. During the performance Of this oere-
mony, their howlngs and lamentations are
frighlful. Those whom we saw bad completed
their task. and had an air Of stupid satisfaction
resulting from the consciousness Of having done
their duty.
The dust raised by our wheels was 80 fine,
penetrating, and sufocating, that the excursion
became torture rather than pleasure. We,
therefore, relinquished the idea Of going on to
Gold Hlll--a picturesque mining camp on ter
race overhanging the rivsr-and halted at q
point where the ridge turns sharply 10 the south
allowing wide outlook 10 the north and east.
The view was vast In extent, graHd aud savage
10 character, yet monotonous In form, lacking
the usual abruptness and picturesqcness OF
mountain scenery. Directly below us yawned
the valley Of the South Fork, at least tive thous
sAud feet deep. Opposite, rose ridge similar
VO tuht % WHICH Wo btoOu, uttiulnR tDe OOutn
and Middle Forks-its summit presenting an
almost even line. covered with dark forests
Over this few higher peaks lifted themselves
In the distance aud still further, Pilot Knob
and the other submits Of the Sierra beyond
DOwnieville. Eastward the deep gorge vanish.
ed between vapory mOuntain-wals, over which
lowered the topmost nights between as and the
Great Basin Of Utah. The highest peaks were
about 10000 feet above the sea-level; jet.
greatly TO our disappointment, no snow was TO
be seen. The unusual heat Of the summer had
denuded even the loftiest SUBMITS, and they
stood bare and broken, Of q pale violet color,
like the dolomite mountains Of Southern Tyrol
Returning alesg the same track, We emerged
from the forest just at sunset, and halted invol-
UNFAIRLY, ct the wonderful beauty Of the scene
before US. The deep, trough like glen down
which our road lay, slept in shadow; at its
mouth Nevada with her encirclIng hills, burned
10 q flush OF imperial purple light; while the
mountains Of the Coast Range, seventy miles
away, were painted in rese-color, transparent
against the sunset / know of but one pencil