The weekly pioneer and Democrat. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn. Territory) 1855-1865, 1859-04-07
THE WEEKLY PIONEER AND DEMOCRAT

bon, edged with purple. looked decidedly
lively. Clusters OF jets and daisies trimmed
tue front and cape. A putting Of maliDs
lace furnished the front. White CAP inside
and long white strings. Another was made
Of pufiings Of lavender and white silk
plain on the front. The thin crown was cn.
circled with sweet pea blossoms, and bow
Of ribbon, quilted on one side, finished the
outside. Inside, . tendril Of sweet pea
blossoms long strings.
A purple and white silk over foundation
Of black lace, trimmed with clusters Of VIC.
Iets and purple velvet, and two streamers
confined by o loop, wastedective; but we
rather dislike purple and lilac in mourning.
xASTILLAs, ETc.
Not much new in this department has
yet been exhibited. The weather Is 10 un.
certain that few have laid aside their iurs
and winter cloaks. 10 few days light
shawls will take the place Of these, and then
articles made for summer wear will be shown.
One or two mantillai we have seen at Jack.
sons, prepared for distant customers, we're
oil black silk founsed, the Aounce trimmed
at the top and bottom with close quilting
Of " love ribbon. Four rows OF the same
crossed tho back md front ia bertha fashion,
and row descended down the front. An
other had stripes Of embossed velvet. Box
plats o! embossed ribbon form favorite
trimming.
Quite q nOvdty was q shawl OF black
cashmere, richly embroidered with silk, and
bordcred with two French lace Hounces,
headed with jet trimming. The price was
thirty five dollars. The French basque,
with coat sleeve, will probably be made in
silk.
We noticed some Circsssian cloth shawls,
with colored borders, delieately printed in
imitation Of embroidery. These are worn
in second mourning.
Mantillas Of plain black lace, with /" Al.
hambra crossings Of Grape beading over
four bias folds Of Grape, are very pretty for
mourning. One Of Brussels lace foundation
had three folds alternating with three rows
OF beading, TO the neck the founce trim.
med with four fold, Of Grape.
DREss MATERIALS AND MAKING.
A new kind Of silk called the " Ottoman
"A yard and half 10 width, and valued at
81 a yards both rich and serviceable
resembling Reps in quality and very thick,
Spanish Grape" Is light and soft mate
rial, but hardly as effective as grenadine or
barcge, which will continue paramount, with
q large variety Of organdie musIins and
prints Of different styles. New combina-
tions for thin dresses will be 10 vogue like
barege, but more lasting Poll de ehevre is
made Of silk and wool, in bsyadere stripes OF
different colors, and will be useful for tray
cling dresses The full skirt has pulling OF
silk, graduated from the waist to the bot.
tom, and caught on either side with narrow
velvet or braid finished at the waist by Q
knot with flowing ends. A similar pulling
goes up the front TO the throat. The sleeves
are gathered into waist band Skirts Of
silk or wooden material are no longer lined
but finished with narrow hem, and bound
with galoon. The waist Of thin dresses 10
made full, with belt, pointed in front and
behind and fastened to the skirt. BasQues
are no longer fashionable, though many are
unwilling to give them up The sleeve 10
about the same. and box.plait trimmings
are greatly in favor.