Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, Va. [W. Va.]) 1852-1859, 1859-08-04
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THE THEM INTELLIGENCER
T"E AHAT RmnNT OF CRTvo1Tv.,
n tFFOm the Philadelphia Press. /

oil 'c,n - =, N'tet ; Dlctlonary. We have look.
Gu loF 1t there, and found it not. Assnro5I,, u
m1;s HlIs! not De omitted in any future edition =
~. 'Sl..a'ly tne name of Partisan gnodiste-nno
Nl""amc Crinoline, who kept set oF de..l oio
,,ni. uiIH.ng rooms IN the Rue de la Paix-it
:; 10y et'he into use to denote the article most
h., az :e at ner establishment She it was who
oy ihe invention of horse hair woven into ot
"I cioth and manufactured into petticoats" "ara
oLed the lair SEX to dispense with that cInn,S,,
laoo'nlnation which always placed them ifnct
m,. an neaalong hurry, certainly ina stbustle y
c ne name OF the petticoat was given from thot
.G inventor as has frequently happened the
cTlaohne' the petticoat, was derived from DIN
ollne the dreSS-rnaker - ~
very speedily her invention was shelved to
considerable extent. Other, because .Ince
ca pehSINe materials than those of which
Tue expensive crtn0tine was m ade, were adontl
SQ!., SI. vi these the most abominable are cane
Nothlng can be more uDgraceful than netficooto
spread out. in one circle Of undeviotng rot,ot1;.
oy a circle OF circles of cane They made y
woman appear as if she had got into a curione
centre OF wicker-work, over which her. COR
1r mentS were spread. The cane hoops, applied
10 female attire, never did look well. and never
can. They have chiefly been used. from th,.ir
cheapness, by servant girls and and the uoorer
order OF wOmankind
considerable ingenuity has been exercised
we confess, upon the manufacture of hoons. in
genuIty in adapting them to the person: inpe.
hulty In making them as little cumbrous nc
P"s?,T'e; ingenuity IN constructing them Of
heXlole materials. The most successful have
been the hoops which are made of metal-of
steer OF oraSs, for example. The material pro.
perry "nNed, accommodates itself 10 theDerSon
ana IS the most graceful adaptation of very
ungraceful and absurd fashions There are
otner materials in use, including ropes made of
twisted cotton, but these make the hoops yerv
heavy Indeed, this is the general fault of the
whole genus The weight hangs heavy on and
from the hips. We are surprised that no mo-
atSte has adopted the virie plan of supporting
the hoops by suspenders such as gentlemen
usually wear, which would pass over the shoul-
oerS from the hips, relieving the latter of the
weight W hat can he more unbecoming than
an nnderslzed, dumpy woman made broader
tnan her length by expanded dresses, and stag
gerlng under the weight like an overlaCen vessel
at sea under'an excess of canvass?
1t Is believed that crinoline first came into
IaShlon beneath the auspices of the Empress
Eugene As the fair Spaniard did not become
vile until the beginning of 1858, and as GRIN
ollne was in vogue in England as far back as
1921, this chronology is erroneous Lately
looking over set of Cruikshank's Comic Al
lnanacS-whlch makes enough of fun to keep a
household in smiles for ever-we met with nm
engraving (dated 1887, we Think which repre-
Sented lady with exaggerated dress the
hounces OF which were in the act of being air.
blown by her S0ubrette, in order to give them
an adequate amount of enormous expausion.-
Such hoops as females now wear NAV be of
more recent invention, but the exaggeratiOn of
circumference, by means Of the crinoline, cannot
/ be less than score of years old
Nothing is more absurd in female attire than
tine want OF common sense in adopting a parti
cular fashion. Thus, the pretty Spanish hats
now SO frequently seeudre most indiScrimnately
worn, whereas they are adapted only for young
| PeopIe-for lasses in their teens, for example,
Yet We see them worn by all ages, and more
particularly affected by Ol6 Maidism, which
should rather conceal the face BY close bonnet,
and veil, thanexhibit it by the Spanish-hat
III lke manner particular. color getsAin vo-
tgne, and theiair sex make arush at it-ns if it
were q Iawtof nature that the same thing must
become every person who wears it, Ifa lady
have a line complexion, and knows anything of
the 9sthetlcs.of dress, (and practice tnakes the
ESeX phlloSOpheEs'in this She will nof kill the
bloom danask of her. checks by wearing red
gown or red ribbons. = A brunette will wear
! yellow, If fshe wants to make harmonious CON-
trast between her skinA1d her dress. a pure,
fresh complexion, will be set off yawhite or
tllght-tinted attire a blonde is always becom-
/ ing blue, while a brunette will cereIuy avoid.
it, But, how often do women forget what be-
comes them, and simply because it is the fash
ION OF the moment, adopts color or a material
winch does not suit them? Fashion is not SO
lcXacting as to demand this. Fashion is not
tyrannlc, though she may be capricious.. FASH
zion docs not command that people shall wear
un6ecoming garments or Ornaments. Fashion
does not coUntenance lhiddlc-aged spinters cut :
ting about in Spanish hats meant only for girls
IN their teens, and SO Fashion never intended
that stout and short women should be exactly
as much hooped and -crinoiihed as those of tall
staturejand good tigure.I S r
For example, the Empress Eugene, who is
tall and graceful, may wear hoops, as She does,
ly, it is said, She has greatly abated their cir.
cumference, But Queen Victoria, who is
round-iaced and rotund commits great mis-
take in wearing as much hoop as her imperial,
and fairer, and younger sister of France.
What becomes one makes the other dumpy.
This 'uPhorisn, be it Observed may be applied
to all ladies Of unequal stature and size. Moth.
ing looks more ludicrouS than a little woman
literally extended by an, excess of hoops. Il. =.
SngacioMs people, who have lived long before
the present generation were Thought of, are
fond of tracing back the antiquity Of the hoop
to the time Of George the Third, when it form.
ed part of the court costume, and even to the
preceding reign, described by Fielding, in "Tom
Jones" aud "Amelia, +" when twas part of the
ordinary dress of fashionable folks. But the
of fha I,,or1 So