, 1859-07-26
Abatement OF 6sr{na1S.n

for it there, and found il not, Axsured1y. il
must not be omitted in anr future edition,
Originally the name Of . Partisan mod;ste-one
Madame Cr1aollnc, who kept Set OF drcssmak-
ing rooms in the Rue DE- II Iuix-it eridepiEr
ca.nc into use, to denote the article most IN re-
pute at her establishment. She it uas who, by
tile invention Of horse hair woven into sort Of
cloth, and manufactured into rcttcoats, enahled
lbe fair sex to dispense with The clumsy ubo,pi-
nation which always placed them. if not ,ia q
headtong hurry, certainly in-1 d,4t'lt The
na'1'e Of the petticoat was given from tlat Of tho
1nFentor, as las frequently happened; tue
Crinotsae. the petticoat, was derived from Csno-
line, the drcss-maker.
1t is believed that Crino'inc first came into
fashion beneath the auspices Of the Empress
Eugenic. As the fair Spanterl did nut become
wife until the beginning Of 1858, and as Crino-
line was in vogue, in England, Us far back Us
1857, this chronology is erroneous. l.ately
lookin. over set of Cruikshank's Comic Alma
mack, Which makes enough Of fun to keep a
household in smiles for ever, We met with an en-
craving, (dsitd 1857, we think,) which repre-
sented lady with exaggerated dress, the
blown By her soudretkf, IN order to give them an
adequate amount Of enormous expansion. Such
helps us females now wear mas be Of more re-
cent invention, but the exargcrution Of circuul-
ference, by means Of the crinoliue, cannot be
less than score years old.
NuIAIIH IL HloEc A1'sNEuY Ill lGul1G alllIc, lulu
the want Of common sense in adopting Particu-
lar fashion. Thus, the pretty Spanish hats now
so frequently seen, arc most lndiscr;minately
worn-whcreas, they nre adapted only for ryout1e
people=-for lasses in their teens, for example,
Vet we sec them worn by all ages, and more
particularly Infected by Old .Aaidism, which
should rather conceal the face hr close
bonnet and veil, than exhibit it BY the Spanish
hat.
In like manner particular color gets in
vogc, aud Tue FUR Sex make ,ruSl for 1t-as IL
it were Inv Of nature that the same thing
must become every person WHO wears it. If n
lady has tinc complexion, and knows anything
the sex philosophers in tllis,) will not kill the
bloom damask Of her checks By wearing red
gown or red ribbons. 4 brunette will wear
yellow il she wants to make harmonious con-
irast between her skin and her dress. 4 rure.
fresh complexion will be set off By White or
light-tinted attire. A blond is always becoming
4 blue, while brunette will carefully avoid II.
But, how often do women forget what brcones
them, and, simply because it is the fashion Of
tic moment, adopt color ora material which
does not suit them? Fashion is not so exactnv
as to demand this. Fashion is not tyrnnnic,
though she may be capricious. Fashion t'ocs
not couutenanco middle aged spinstcrs cutting
abnnt in Spanish hats, meant only for girls in
their teens. Aud 70. Fass'ion ncrer intended
that stout and short women should be exactly as
much 1oeped and crinolined us those Of tall stat
urc md good figure.
For example the Empress Eugenie. who is
tall and graceful, n1ar wear hoops, as she docs,
without being much dsfyured by them: Inter-
y, it is said, she has greatly abated their cir
cua.ference. but Queen Iicioriu, who is rnunl-
faced aud rotund, c<,r.ntatss d great mistake ia
wearing as much hoop Us her Imperial. and fair
cr, nnl younger sister Of France. What be-
comes one mikes the other dunry. THIS aphnr.
;xu r1,e In nr,r,tteG In n1 1.jo
Of equal stature and size. Nu1hing locks mnre
ludicrous than little woman 1atteriy extended
by m excess Of hoops:
Sagac;ous people who bnye lived long before
the present generation was thought Of. arc
fond of tracing back the antiquity of the hoop
part Of the Court costume, and crcn to tie
preceding reign, described by Fielding, in
:. Tn,n Joncs' aud 81 Amelia" when It wns part
Of the ordinary dress Of fashionable folks But
the antiquity Of tue hoop ia greater get than
this. .
Exactly one hundred mud fitay year. nro,
Addison commented, in Tie 7affler, IN the
enormctics of tue hoop, declaring that to wear
it was almost libel on virtuous females. and
tlut lie WIS very much disposed tn be offended
With such new and unaccountable fashion,"
Subsequently, in Tie Spectator, he was witty as
well us satirical On tho new fashion, We noticed
tue cxtenuatinE remark, often made in the
present time, that the expanded garments were
very airy. and therefore propcrsor tile Summer
season, and finally arTired at the conclusion that
his own sex iad Of late years bec, very sauc:,
md that the hoop pcttlcoat was l,lade use Of TO
keep them ut distance. female who is
thus invested in ,~l,aIebone," he says, sis
sufficiently secured against the approaches Of
an ill.bred fellow, who might as well think of
| Sir Georsc Ethcridge's way Of making love in
| tub as in the midst of so many hoops" Antici-
| paiing wIlat has been repeatedly said in these
inter simes. Addison adds, '..should this fash.
ion get among The ordinary people, our pubic
| street room." Does not Crinolne, at this dav,
drivc us into q coruer evcrvwhervy In the bali.
ronm, on the promenade, in railroad-cars and
omnibusscs. il churches and theatres, at all
plnces and at all times does not Cfiuolinc over
power nsy hoes 1t not crush us of tue pave
nlcnt and crush US in the cars: Every where
it occupies twice and thrice the space its wcar-
crs are legisimatcly entitled 10, and it is mos,
unjust 10 the male species that the other
sex are not charged for the space they &C.
eof66; Rf6c,e is life in Addison concluding remark
"It in recorder Of Alexander the Great, TINT in
| his Indian expedition be buried several suits o,
armor. wl.ci, by his directions were madc much
too big for any Of his soldiers, in order to give
postcritr an extraordinary idea Of him. alt
made them believe he bad command Of IN army
of giants. am persuaded that il one of tic
present pe1ticoats happens to be hung up in
any repository Of cuE,Dsaties, it will lead inie
tue same c1rur the generations TINT he *om*
removes from us; unless We can believe or1
posteriiy will thing so disrespeetfully Of taei1
rrapdmotlers. that they madc thcmselye.
monstrous 10 appear amiabic: When surre,
this new. fashioned rotund in MI its parts can
not but think Of the old philosopher, who. nfae,
lnokcd about for tue il.l of lie place, ii Length
discovered little bl1sk monkey cnshrincd If
thr midst Of it; upon Which he could not for
bear crying out TO the great scandal Of ths
worshippers,l 'Nhnt magnificent palace i
here for such a ridiculous iuaabltani:"
As hoops ouce got out tf fashion. SO the,
will again fall into disuee- Tho latest Fashions
bulletin Of fa.iA, which exhibits aud describe
tho saAf.s for July, announces two fhcts highf,
Interesting to the female portion Of society
The double-skirt is to be discontinued, IN cou
sequence Of the change Of mode Just beginning
rart Of the dress. thereby Diminishing the pro
portion Of the upper "rerhaps," the seporte
| adds, "this modification NAV already be locke
upon as a sort of invasion on tue rights Of sh
! long-triumrhant Crinoflne.n
The fact is, the Emprcss Eugcnie, who rule
the fashions in Paris. has set her face, rery d.
cidedty, aQainst the excesses Of c1iuolinc, an
.. ifrumor il to be credited, intends having the.
!. wholly abolished BY the time the next seaso
| cnm.nenceg. 1t is her manifestation against Il,
!; double skirt which has already substitute
Hounces, Of which thrre or four are to be wor
hut not aboye the knee. Indeed, Eugen
secrs inclined to bring back the fesnale 1asl
. iuns Of the carly part Of the hsst Empire, whc
: Joscnhine Was The autocrst Of dress, aud ressol
the figure to Its natural shaPc. The inirrcssio
: in Paris, where all things run into extremes,
] that even short waists viii be rerired. Thin
Of tkaf, Master Brooke! Think Of ladies, wais
} directly unier their arms. Yet this was II
l+..h;nr .xn+n IN 1S1l hy Insa sanhine the rrnraf