Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1859-06-18
W. D. WALLACE.
FOR LADIES ONLY-Is THIS BECOM-

clothing NJ Cheyreul discusses this with all
the care IL demands. And 6rst, he establishes
eertsih distinctions that Of the two types
known brunette and blonde: that Of the
juxtaposition of the articles Of toilet, whether
pertaining to the hair or to the complexion, by
colored rays emanating from the head dress,
and which, being reflected on the skin, tinge it
with their peculiar color. He says.
The color of light hair being essentially
the result Of a mixture Of red, yellow and
brown, we must consider it rs a very pale sub
dued orange brown; the color Of the skin, al
though lower tone, is analogous 10 it, except
in the red parts. Blue eyes are really the only
parts of the fair type which form = contrast Of
color with the whole; for the red parts rro-
duce, with the rest of the skin, only a har-
mOny of analogy of hue, or at most a contrast
Of hue, and not Of color; and the parts of tho
shin contiguous 10 the hair, the eyebrows and
eyeldshes, give rise only to a harmony Of anal
ogy, either of scsle or of hue The harmonies
ct analogy, then, evidently predominate in the
fair type over the harmonieS of contrast
The type with black hair shows the harmo-
nies of contrast predominating over the barmo-
mes OF analogy The hair, eyebrows eyeIashes
and eyes, contrast in tone and color not only
with the white Of the skin, but also with the
red parts, which in this type are really redder
or less roseate, than in the blonde TYNE; and
we must not forget that a decided red, asso1
cIated with black, gives to the latter the char
acter OF an excessively deep color, either blue
or green
OF the eolors Of the hair and head dress we
are told:
The colors which are usually considered as
asserting. best with light or black hair are pre-
clssly those which produce great contrasts !;
thus sky blue, known to accord well with
blondes, Is the color that approaches nearest
Co the complementary of orange, which is the
basis Of the tint Of their hair and compilations.
Two colors, long esteemed 10 accord favorably
black hAlr-VallOW ro1 las
orange-contrast in the same manner with
them Yellow and orange red, contrasting by
color and brilliancy with black, and their COM
plamentarIes, violet and blue-green, in mixing
with the tint Of the hair, are far from pro.
dUring bad result"
The following. on the colors Of the complexion
and the contiguous drapery, affords several VAL
uable hints
= The juxtapOsition of drapery with the diff
ferent hesh tints OF women offers to pOrtrsit
painters host of remarks, which are all the
results OF the principles already laid down
We shall state the most general thus:
" Rose-red cannot be put in contrast with
even the roSIest complexiOus without causing
them to lose some Of their freshness Rose.
red, maroon and light crimson have the serious
disadvantage Of rendering the complexion more
or less green. This is shown in the following
experiments: Place two sheets of paper Of
either OF the above cOlOrs beside two sheets of
heSh-colored paper, when it will be seen how
much they are mutually injured, the lighter
becoming gr6enish, and the darker rather of a
violet hue BY substituting light green for the
r"J, We shall find them mutnslly heightened
and improved. The height of tone Of the green
Influences the result; n very deep green actin.,
by contrast of tone, so enfeebles the complex
ION that the slight contrasts of its colors will
be inappreciable; n deep red by contrast of
analogy, elanches the complexion. 1t is neces-
sary. then. to separate the rose from the skin
IN some manner, and the simplest manner of
doing this, is to edge the draperies with a. bor-
der OF tulle, which produces the effect of gray
ny the mixture of white threads which reflect
light, and the intcrstices, which absorb If:
there is also a mixture of light and shade.
which recalls the effect of gray, like the effect
OF q easement window viewed at a great dis
lance. Dark red is less Objectionable for GER
tam compilations than roSe-red, because being
higher than the latter, il tends to impart
whiteneSS To them in consequence Of contrast
Of tone
" Delicate green is, on the contrary favor
aeie TO all lair compilations which are deficient
IN rose, and which may have more impaired TO
them without disadvantage. But it is not A.
iIEoranle to compilations that are more red
tnan rosy, nor to those that have tint cf
orange mixe'l with brown, because the red
they add to this tint will be of a brick rel
nue. In the latter case dark green will be
less Questionable than a delicate green.
elbow imparts violet To a fair skin and in
green. To those skins which are more yellow
than orange 1t Imparts white; but this combi-
nation Is ycry dull and heavy for a fair com
pleXIon. When the shin is tinted more with
orange than yellow, we can make it rosy by
neutraiiLing the yellow. Ii produces this effect
upon the blaek-haired type, and il is thus thai
II suits bruneites
violet. the complementary of yellow pro
duceS contrary effects; thus it imparts some
green'sh yellow to fair compilations IL aug
mentS the yellow tint Of yellow AMI orange
sHlns The little blue there may be in a COM
Fie&iDn ~ makes green violet. This, then, is
one OF the least favorable coIors to the skin. at
least when II Is not sufficiently deep TO whiten
the skin by contrast of tone.
bIue imparts orange. which combines favor
shiy with white, and the light heah tints of fair
couple TlOnS, which have already n more or
less determined tint of this color. Blue ia
mus suitable 10 most blonde, ard in this case
Jn-tIheS ITS reputation. 1t will not suit hru
neiteS, since they have already too much Of
orange.
Orange is too brilliant to be elegant; it
makes iair compilations blue, whitens those
which nave an orange tint, and gives a green
nue. To those of a yellow tint.
" LusiTeless white, such ~ cambric muslin
asSoTis well with fresh complexion Of which
reIieVes the rose color; but il is unsuitable TO
S'npieNlons which have a disagreeable tint
because white always eNalts all colors by rais-
lnS their tone consequently il is unsuitable to
those skins which, without having this dis
agreeable tint, very nearly approach it,
Very light white draperies, such as muslin
vi lace' appear more gray than white. We
must thus regard every white drapcry which
allows the light to pass through its inierstices,
Sni which Is only apparent to the eyes by the
surface opposed TO that which receives incident
light.
'' Black draperies, by lowering the tone of
the eolOrs with which they arc in iuxtaposition
"hiten the skim but il the vermilion or rosy
Parts, are somewhat distant from the drapery
u viii follow that, although lowered in tone
lhey appear relatively to the white parts of
ihe skin contiguous to the same drapery red
der than if not contiguous TO the black"
CANELS on AN ALABAMA PLANFArI0Y-In
reply to letter Of inquiry, Mr.. WOolsey, of
Alabama, writes to the Savannah Republican n