The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1859-09-22
$50

bition. One of those hills is perfectly fat on
top and contains several acres covered with
luxuriant grass. But there is not sprig Of
timber near any of them, save a few willows
and cottOnwoods, to be found around springs
and in rayines at their feet The irregularitv
of the general face of the country is owing to
the depth of the hollows, rayines, and gullies,
and not to the height of the hills for, when
viewed from the top of the Antelope Hills ii
presents the appearance of a vast plain, but
slightly undulating.
We are now encamped twenty miles from
those Hills, and yet they can be very plainly
seen By our vidette sentinels, and seem to be
but few miles distant.
The Canadian river is one of the queerest
streams on the American continent and pos
sesses many strange and peculiar, not to say
romantic and picturesque, features 1t proba-
bly, traverses as large q scope of wild and unin-
habited country as any river within our bounda-
mes. The bed of the river proper, as far as
have seen it, is from four hundred yards 10 one
mile IN extent. But for the most part, the
stream of water which il contains is but from
ten to twenty yards wide, from one to two or
three feet deep, of reddish color, and running
sometimes on one side or the other Of the great
sandbed, sometimes in the middle, and some
times Engaging from one side TO the other.
These remarks have reference to its condition
during the dry season. Just after the heavy
rains which fall during the wet season, the
Canadian becomes a powerful and majestic
rivera wild and mad torrent, Of gigantic pro-
portions-rushing, roaring and foaming along
with frantic fury. When seen at Its best, it viii
compare favorably with the great Missouri, or
even the mighty Mississippi. | am of the
opinion, that if the Canadian had sided clay or
rocky banks, and the great mass Of sand was
cleared out Of its large channel, it would con-
tain an abundance Of water to afford naviga-
lion, and float large steamboats,.
At some places there are large scopes Of
bottom lands on either side of the river, and
at other points the bluffs, sand-his, and high
lands, approach the very margin Of the great
sand beach or river bed. Anywhere along this
beach, water may be found by digging a few
inches into the sand. Indeed, everywhere on "A
level with the river, the ground is perfectly
saturated with water. Anywhere in the bottom,
wells of the best water can be obtained by
digging only few feet, say from three to nine.
Not only the Canadian, but all the creeks,
brooks, and springs, in this strange country,
are subjected to a curious phenomenon. About
sunset, the water commences to flow much
freer, and rises several inches higher than it
is during the day. Some smaller rivnlets and
springs, that are entirely dry during the greater
part Of the day, at evening, through the night,
and at early morn, become gushing fountains
and merry running streams. Whether the
rising of these waters is caused by the same
influences which govern the tide, or whether
the daily falling thereof is caused by the heat
of the sun and evaporation, forms a subject of
curious discussion among US soiourners on the
plains. Some incline to think it proper sub
ject For scientific investigation.
Hereabouts, the timber along the banks Of
the Canadian Is very scarce. At some points
for several miles, there is none at all, or but
few and far between, one tree here and there.
At some points, where a creek or brook emp
ties ITSELF there will be fine grove Of several
acres Of pretty timber. At other points, where
the bluffs butt up against the beach. the red
clay palisades, which little torrents have cut
and formed IN many fantastic shapes, form
quite picturesque feature.
One night last week, q small party Of Ca
manches stole the ponies OF our guides, who
were encamped in a cluster Of elms on the out.
skirts OF our camp. The Indian thieves must
have had ten hours the start before the loss of
the ponies was discovered. Thirty men, under the |
command Of Lieut.. A. Iverson, were dispatched
for the purpose of overhauling them If possible |
After two days hard march, or rather gallop,
the Indians were so closely pressed that they
were compelled TO leave the stolen ponies as
well as other led animals, and escape with
their worthless lives.
We are now IN very pleasant camp. Every
thing Is quite convenient. Each mess has dug
8 hne well, aud obtained splendid water. These
wells are only eight feet deep, aud, instead of
being dug round OF square, are long. with
large barrel sunk IN one end, while a pair Of
steps gradually descends from the other end A
neat arbOr Of willow bushes and twigs is formed
over each well. The Washita, at this point a
small but swirl running stream Of clear and cold
water, goes purling along, just in front Of our
tent doors At this point, the Canadian and
Washita rivers are separated By a strip Of
land only nine miles wide.
In my perambulations through the country
round camp, / see much to admire in the land
scape and scenery. Beautiful groves of per
simon trees and delightful lagoons, or rush
lakes, aboand, in and about which nav be seen
thousands of swans, pelicans, cranes, ducks.
sniPes, water-hens, ployers, &c, &c.
The other day, party of Us went ont gun
ming, aud started up party Of seven bears,
which we chased over barren white sandhiIls
for about three hours, and finally succeeded in
killing two Of them-very fat young fellows
But, for the present, L must bid YOU adieu