Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1859-08-19
WASHINGTON NEWS AND GOSSIP.


SPLIT Rock RAPIDs-MoNrREAL MOUNTAIN IN
SiGHr-FoUR AT THE HELM-THK OTTAWA
LAKE ST. LouIs-NUSs IsLASD-THE ANCIENT
MoUxD-LACHINK-A BEAUTIFUL PANORAMA
The LACnINE RAPIDs-ExcIrTSG VoyAGING-
ROUNDING BEFORE MONTREAL.
Editorial Correspondence Of Tbs StoT.l
On THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER,
near CoTRLraH, Canada,
mo. 26.J August 4, 1859. }
Though long since out from among the Thou
sand Islands, isles have been plentifully strewed
on either hand since we left Brockville many of
them cultivated, and where cultivated, generally
highly improved. Not a few Of them look like
little paradses for a summer seasons sojourn so
far have seen nothing in the towns or farm
houses of Canada to remind me that II was a cen
fury ago, only, under the dominion of France, ex-
cept the ruins of the old fort at Carlton and the
humble church | noticed in the letter | closed an
hour ago.
We are now corrsing down the Sault Rapids
comparatively narrow sluice, in which the st.
Lawrence makes its way vehemently towards
the ocean as that no steamer even can venture TO
stem its current; the canal around it, IL miles in
length, being resored to by vessels of all sorts,
well as those OF Victorias subjects, in voyaging
up stream. As We rushed down the Sault Rapids
the steamer was fifty times made by the helmsman
to turn apparently half way upon her own centre,
so devious is the channel and sudden its changes.
Though there was nothing very dangerous there,
these frequent very sudden whirlngs about, made
more than one passenger evidently nervous. The
waters pour down these rapids much as though they
were a mill sluice, their rush being regular, and
broken only by apparent boilngs in all directions.
At Cornwall, at the foot Of the Sault Rapids, the
appearance of the houses is very French. Many
of them massive one-story stone buildings that
must be perhaps century old. Otherwise saw
nothing of particular interes: about it. A few
miles below, the river commences TO run wholly
within the Canada lines, being no longer the
boundary between Queen Vic and President Bu-
chanan. From Cornwall east, the country
slmed a wilder appearance, and the voyager sees
upon the river banks many evidences that the
population is essentially French. Thus, the houses
of single story and attic, nearly all Of them
with the red roofs, to which the rural French
Canadians are proverbially partial.
We passed through Lake st. Francis, between
four and five in the afternoon-a broad expansion
Of the river upon which stands the villages Of St
Iolique, and the upper and lower Coteau du
Lac. The former is exclusively French hamlet,
with its chapel towers rising impressively above
its other buildings Both the Coteau villages are
handsome, though scattering ones, and also wear
ing n decided French aspect. Lower Coteau
stands at the foot Of the Coteau rapids, made by
the p essence of numerous beautiful islands in the
river there, some Of which arc cult waited The
church or chapel, Catholic of course Of this vii
lage, with its Uncovered roof tower and cross
has beautiful effect seen in the sunlight on
| such an afternoon The remains of an abandoned
English fertilization, easily traceable from the
steamers deck, add interest to the scene here
suddenly turns bend on the rivers current, and
shooting between two of the islands hardly hun
dred yards apart, rushes down the Coteau rapids
over the white caps Of foam with which it is COW
cred. Take it all in all, this part of the voyage.
from the scenery on both sides of the river, the
islands, and the rapids is full Of interest indeed
We are again coursing between banks highly
cultivated and thickly populated, on which many
farm mansions appear-all French (of one story
and an attic,) with the red roof and light yellow
walls. The villages of st. Timothy and Cedar
are now in sight below US, each with its tall tin
covered cross surmounted spire glistening in the
light of the declining sun. Both look beautifully
from the steamer-French, French, French in all
their apparent attributes
Here We are now at the Cedar rapids dashing
down stream at the rate of TWENTY-FIVE miles an
hour, and as we 90 we wind among the many
islets around which the violent current whirls
We run almost within touching distlnce Of one
of the islands to avoid the Chute Boilean, foam
ing raging, tempestuous nest of apparent dangers
almost as close on our right hand | hear that
this is regarded by the pilots running the river as
not being dangerous rapid, because the angles
of the currents give them entire command of their
boats through all the sudden and many changes
| while navigating them here. BY the by, nearly
all those employed these boats are French Ca
nadians; the pilots, deck hands &c. being all old
~. Lawrence river voyageurs. None others are
found to answer for the navigation OF the rapids:
their superior patience, temperance, hardness
&c, qualifying them best for the service
Al The head OF the split rock rapid we obtain our
hrst view OF the mountain at the base of wbic h
Montreal stands Attention is instantly attracted
from II, however, by the apparent perils Of the
navigation of the rapid. On either side of a mad
channel not more than one hundred feet in width
the rocks are plainly in sight from the deck, not
more than three or four feet below the surface of
the water. Conflicting currents from around the
nearest islands meet at the entrance Of that narrow
channel, and give rise to the heaviest "choDpinp,
sea have yet seen in this latitude-so heavy as to
upset more than one lady passenger upon tbs floor
81 the saloon. la such sea il requires steady
hclmsmen. indeed, to steer clear of such rocks go
'O'A'Cu' " hci DOdt Is rushing the staunch
steamer Wclland few minutes ago rushed down
Split Rock rapid.
Ere clearing it, a lovely scene burst upon us
tie river expanding into comparatively-pla
oay-Lake 81. Louis-receiving the darker waters
Of the noble river Ottawa into its 1.-THE st law
rence1s) bosom; three or four French yillages nm
the night and left hand, within sight, with their
now invariable glistening church tower and sur-
mounting si!very cross; the mountains behind
Montreal; farm buildings on fum buildings ON
both sides Of the river and last but not least. we
seeaPParently the surface-the full expa,se-of the
river almost down TO the NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
% miles Of. 1t is glorious view. indeed Tie
Wits OF the Ottawa snnear tn refuse for mill
ai'er thelr Junction, to mingle with those OF the
st Lawrence, occupying equal space in the
large bay or lake down which we now steam
The village Of Beauharnois, on our right, that we
nave just passed, is as picturesque as any on the
Noith river, and Is evidently very thriving set
uement. Some miles lower down 81. Iouis h,v
We pass Nuns island; romantic spot in the broad
exPanse OF waters, the seigniory Of which being
vested In one Of the orders Of n uns in Lower Cam
ada. Is used by them a a1mp, ,a,....