Cleveland morning leader. [volume] (Cleveland [Ohio]) 1854-1865, 1859-10-01
Fnn rnshIons In New YORK

The Times devotes column TO the opening
day of the Milliners and the lashions ofthe sea-
son in the gay metropolis. We clip some por.
tions likely to interest lady readers;
The order of the day in ladies dresses is dc.
cidedly golden fleece. The soft Arcadian hues
of peace have evidently given place to the pomp
and circumstances of glol ious war in the Euro
pean factories of fashion. The Zouaves and the
Turcos, Magenta aud Solferino have set the
fances of the designers on fire 1t is almost
impossible to find single robe, or hat or cloak
among all the new arrivals, which is quiet and
subdued in color or pattern. The favorite
materials OF the season in dresses, the Marguer.
ite silks, the printed merinos aud the Ottoman
velvet plsids, are especially superb in hue.
The Marguerite silks are as unlike the "raro
pale Margaret" as can be. They resemble
neither pearls nor daisies. The color of these
shot silks is kind of impassioned mauOs, very
regal and delicate, which lights up most brillian-
tly, and 10 ofcourse exclusively adapted to home
and evening tolettes
The merinos are also very marked and almost
glittering, dark rich grounds dotted all over
with bright little bouquets which "leap at your
eye" as the French expressivelY put it, The
Ottoman paids arc patterned in very large
squares, and earn their Orien tul title by con-
trasts of color as startling as the clangors Of
Turkish music.
The hats, or bonnets shall we call them, for
they arc really nothing but imperfect little caps,
of the season partake the general sunshine
Ribbons, flowers and bdndeaur of rich corn
color are the favorite trimmings aud the wear.
ers must risk the imputation of having been
caught in a shower OF gold
| The changes in the form and mako of dres-
ses and bonnets both have been very slight -
/ Dasn,taa IN, lao anttralu 1ig,arlaI G,v
a morning costume. Double skirts will be
worn; but the full plain skirt elaborately trim
med to an almost unlimited extent with ribbon,
lace, cords and tassels, will be decidedly the
"thing" The sleeves of dresses aud cloaks
will be very wide and full, and dashingly trim
med
A quasi novelty in the making up of silks, is
the double waist, cOntriyed double debt TO pay,
for home wear and the promenade. The cor
sage is first made, low with short sleeve, then
! the upper portion Of the dress made detached,
with long sleeves, which can be buttoned under
he cap.
The military inspiration, TO which we have
alluded, has affected the miliinem as well as
the manufacturers. The Marguerite silks come
to us with the suggestion that they should be
made up with corsageE, trimmed like Hussar .
ljaeket-cords and tassels, suitable for the pur
pose, being sent out in sets, at from five to
twelve dollars each And we have zouave
jacket for morning wear, which will do terrible
execution among those worse than Austrians-
the bachelors. This desper ,te garment is con
fined at the throat by a singlo button, and flows
gracefully down over the hips. A close vest
with double point at the waist, and buttoned
up to the chin, is worn benelth, and the sleeves
are loose, round, and braided in the most daring
style.
The elOak' Of the coming campaign also whis.
per war. They will be worn very long behind
falling nearly TO the feet, but in front viii be
much shorter, presenting, that is, somewhat the
semblanos Of a draRoon officers mantle on the
march. The sleeves will be very long and wide,
the bodies cut in a saeqne pattern in front. but
in the back full aud boxpaited IN pointed yoke
overhung by pointed hood, very richly trim
med. The prevailing colors will be black aud
ashes Of roses, but the general effect Of these
oloaks win be magnificent enough 10 cover,
like charity, multitude Of sins. Possibly they
may be used for that purpose.