Weekly standard. [volume] (Raleigh, N.C.) 1858-1865, 1859-09-14
The Standard,
LETTER FROM THE HOLY LAND.

LETTER FROM THE HOLY LAND.
Gen. Aaron Ward, Of New York, writes 10 his
friends very interesting better from BeyTcat June
49, 1859:
We left for Jerusalem Immediately after dinner,
and pitched cur tent or rather found it pitched on
our arrival some fcerteen miles from Jappa. Our
dragonaM had Supplied as with seven men includ-
ing knseH; that is to say, himself, cook servant,
and foar mueteers, and twelve horses for the con-
veyance of ourselves tents provisions and baggage
I think I hear you say that there were altogether
too maay men and horses for the conveyance of only
two persons, but hare to say that, IN looking into
it I do net see how We could dispense with single
man or horse We left again at five o'clock the
next morning. and arrived at Jerusalem at two
o'clock, mach fatigued. The path-for they have
no roads In this country-was intolerably bad from
the moment we reached the mountain region. No.
thing but up hill and down hill and such hills would
starte you out of your quiet seat to even have
sight Of them; most of them rising from eight
hnnared to one thousand feet in hight, filled with
loose stones, so that in going up or down you
would say that it is impossible to pass over them in
safety: but the horses of this country are accus-
toned to these wretched paths, and we were IN no
instance endorsed in consequence OF their bad state
The tourney seemed to me as though it would never
end, notwithstanding the whole distance from the
sea to Jerusalem does not exceed forty miles.
our route was when we reached the valley OF Eah,
no great distance from the city, where the Philistne
army was encamped, on one Of those huge noun
tans against the army by Saul on the other at the
time that Dwidkilled Goliath with his sling andstone
in the vsa1ey lying between the two armies After
leaving this thrilling spot our head mueteer soon
called out in loud voice, Jerusalem Jerusalem"
which was repeated by one and all with great joy,
for it ended our painful labors on that day.
city at the Jatfa gate and we're conducted through
the narrow Streets where carriage never entered,
and where none ever can, for they are barely wide
enough for one to pass on horseback in single file,
and the paving stones worn so smoothly that no
horse unaccustomed to them could keep his feet for
q single moment
We were both so much fatigued that we went to
bed Immediately, and after resting ourselves we
were conducted through and around the city, to
most of the points of interest which visited time
and again under the most favorable circumstances,
for we were accompanied by our assistant consul
and gentlemen Of distinction, who were at home on
every subject, and who made us acquainted with
everything in and about the Holy City, We exam
inel with much attention the Church of the Holy
Sepulchre, and most of the ecclesiastical and other
public ediices-the walls of the city, the different
gates the several valleys, the numerous tombs the
Mount of Olives, from which we had fine view of
in the stone which tradition points out as the one
made by our Savounat the time he assembled into
heaven We also attended the service of the several
churches on this Hill, on the day of Ascension, as
we were so fortunate as to be there at that time
The whole service was an imposing and an interest
ing one We visited Bethlehem and the Church of
the Nativity in that place, and also rode to Bethany
and saw the Tomb of Lazarus and the objects of in
terest in that most wretched place.
sc aok
from the American and English residents in Jerusa-
lem, and our Consul and will gratefully remember
their unwearied attention to us. We were invited
out to evening entertainments, and everything they
could do to render our visit agreeable was done by
them.
We left Jerusalem for Bethel on Thursday after
noon and encamped for the night within three miles
oft Bethel is wretched town. as are all the vii
lagos in the rural districts Their buildings consist
of one room only, and part of that is given up to
their sheep and calves, for there are no barns or
stables in the country. They have no meadows,
and consequently have no hay for their horses
Their grain is threshed out soon as cut and con-
verted into flour by hand-mis, gristmills turned
in most instances by horses. There are some few
miserable grist-mls on the streams but at this sea-
son Of the year they are dry. 1 cannot convey to
you in this short note, the wretched condition of
the people. The truth is the lands held by the
government; the people have nc interest in the soil
they cultivate and they take pains to improve it.
They sleep at this season of the year on the tops of
their small edfces have often seen father moth
er, sisters, brothers, of all ages and conditions clus
tered together around dish placed in their center
at nightfa on the top Of their huts satisfying their
appetiies. They would then lie down in that circle
for the might. They could not if they would make
themselves more comfortable dwellings for there is
not any wood or timber in the country. It is diff
cult to get stick large enough for horsewhip un
less you cut it from an olivetree. But they have
superabundance of stones and rocks, from mountain
ridges to mountain ridges, that in passing over
the country you arc obliged literally to 20 from
mountain top to mountain top over the most wretch
ed and miserable, and, must add, dangerous paths
that you can conceive Of in your vived imagination
will not attempt to describe them
We proceeded from Bethel to Sychair, and examin-
ed with attention Jacobs Well and the Tomb of
Joseph. both interesting objects. While at this
place we examined the Oldest manuscript of the five
books of Moses, kept with care at this place. I
would not have been deprived of this pleasure on
any account for whatever may be its date, it is no
doubt, the Oldest copy now in existence
From here we proceeded over some interminable
stony mountain paths to Samaria The view from
the site Of this old town is very imposing, indeed
might say transcendently beautiful, for from the
ruins OF the gate, still standing on its west sde we
nave fine view Of the Mediterranean sea- Here
we counted hundreds of broken columns standing
in rows all around the site CT the old town, and
thousands Of other broken parts of columns lying
scattered all around No one can look upon such a
scene and fancy to himself that thousands of ages
ago it was inhabited by refined and intellectual
people, without painful emotions you feel as if you
wanted to stop long enough to weep over the past.
We encamped that night some ten miles beyond
Samarla, at small village; we were in the rural
districts, and if there was any honey or cows milk
to De got in this land of milk and honey" one
would have supposed i. would be offered for sae but
all we have for our tea is little goat or sheen's
nhk, and have seen no honey any where in the
From this point we passed over similar mountain
ranges to Mount Tabor. We assembled it and took
our lunch upon its top. The view is one of the
most extensive in the country. You look down up
on the scar of Tberias, upon the valley by the
name Of Tabor, upon Nazareth, and you fancy YOU
can see Jerusalem, as you can see the mountain.