The daily exchange. [volume] (Baltimore, Md.) 1858-1861, 1858-04-13
TRANSCENDENTAL GASTRONOMY.
From BriUat Saparin's Phusioloqg of Taste.

UTILITY OF ASTRONOMICAL KNOWLEDGE.
Gastronomical knowledge is necessary to all men,
for it tends to augment the sum of happiness. This
utility becomes the greater in proportion as it is
used by the more comfortable classes OF society; it
is indispensable to those who have large incomes,
and entertain great deal, either because in this
| respect they discharge obligation, follow their
own inclination, or yield to fashion.
They have this special advantage, that they take
personal pleasure in the their table is kept
they can to certain point superintend the deposit
tories of their confidence and even on many occa-
sions direct them.
| The prince of Soubise once intended to give an
entertainment and asked for the bill of fare.
The maitre d'hotel came with list surrounded
byUgnetes and the first article that met the Princes
| eyes was fifty hams.
"Bertrand," said the Prince, 81 think you must
be extravagant; fifty hams! Do you intend to
| feast my whole regiment ?"
''No, Prince, there will be but one on the table,
and the surplus l need for my epagno'e my blonde,
garnitures, &c"
Bertrand, you are robbing me. This article will
not do"
| ''Monseigneur," said the artist "you do not ap-
preciate mel Give the order, and will put those
fifty hams in a crystal flask no longer than my
| thumb"
| What could be said to such positive operation
The Prince smiled and the hams were passed.
INFLUENCE OF GAsTRoNoMY ON BUSINESS.
In men not far removed from state of nature, it
is well known that all important affairs discuss
cd at their feasts. Amid their festivals savages
decide on war and peace; need not go far to
know that villages decide all public affairs at the
| cabaret.
This observation has not escaped those to whom
the weightest affairs often confded. They said
that full stomached individual was very different
from fasting one; that the table established kind
of alliance between the parties, and made guests
more apt to receive certain impressions and Weld to
certain influences. This was the origin of political
gastronomy. Entertainments have become govern
mental measures, and the fate of nations is decided
on over banquet. This is neither paradox
hI1f nf,1n nhcn foak n,.a,.
every historian from the time of Herodotus to our
own days and it will be that, not even excepting
conspiracies, no great event took place, that
was not conceived, prepared, and arranged at
festival.
DEFINITION OF APPETITE.
Motion and life occasion in the animal portion of
all that lives constant loss of substance, and the
human body, that most complicated machine would
soon be unfit for use did not Providence provide it
with monitor to inform it of the very moment
when its power is no longer in equilibrium with its
wants.
This monitor is appetite. By this word we under
stand the first impression of the want of food.
Appetite declares itselfby languor in the stomach
and slight sensation of fatigue.
The mind at the same time buses itself with things
analogous to its wants. memory recalls food that has
BATTERED its taste, imagination fancies that it
them, and something like dream takes place. This
state is not without pleasure, and we have heard
many adopts say, with joy in their heart, "what
pleasure it is to have good appetite when we are
certain of having good meal"
The whole nutritve apparatus is moved. The
stomach becomes sensible, the gastric juices flow
and displace themselves with noise, the mouth be-
comes moist and all the digestive powers are under
arms like soldiers awaiting the word of command.
After few moments there will be spasmodic mo-
tion, pain and hunger.
Every shade of these gradations may be observed
in every drawing-room where dinner is delayed
The most exquisite politeness cannot disguise the
symptoms.
From this fact l deduced the apothegm-"The
ne Of
ness"
PoT-AU-FEw, PoTAGE,'&c.
POf-d.fem is piece of beef intended to be cooked
in boiling water, slightly sailed to extract all
the soluble parts.
Bouilon is the fluid which remains after the ope-
ration BouiH is the flesh after it has undergone
the operation.
Water dissolves at first portion Of the osmazome,
then the abumen coagulates al fifty degrees reamen,
and forms the foam we The rest consists of
the osmazome, with the extractive part of juice and
finally portion of the wrapping of the fbres de-
tached by the continuity of ebullition
To have good bouilon the water must be heated
slowly, and the ebullton must be scarcely percepti
Bile, so that the various particles necessarily dis
solved, may unite ultimately and without trouble.
1t is the custom to add to boullon. vegetables or
roots, to enhance the taste, and Bread pates to
make the mixture more nourishing. Then it is what
is called potdge.
Potaye is a healthy food, very nourishing and
suits every body, it pleases the stomach and pre-
pare for reception and digestion Persons threat
ened with obesity, should take bouiuon alo.e.
Bouilli is healthful food, which satisfies hunger
readily, is easily digested, but which, when eaten
alone restores strength to very small degree be-
cause in ebullition the meat has lost much of its
dnimahzoble juices.
We include in four categories the persons who
eat bouili.
l.. Men of routine, who eat it because their faith
ers did,
2. Impatient men, who, abhorring inactivity at
the table, have contracted habit aftackinu
once whatever Is placed before them.
B. The inattentive, who eat whatever is put be-
fore them, and look upon their meals labor they
have to undergo. All that will sustain them they
put on the same level and sit at the table as the
oyster does in his bed.
A. The voracious, who, gifted with an appetite
which they are eager to crafty, seek the first vic
tim they can find, to appease the gastric juice and
use it basis to the different enUois they wish to
despatch to the same destination.
Professors of gastronomy never eat bouii from re-
spect to the principles previously announced, that
bouui is flesh without the juices.
OYSTERS.
1t will be remembered that not long ago, any well
arranged entertainment began with oysters, and
swallowed twelve dozen. / was anxious to know
the weight of this advance guard and ascertained
that dozen oysters, fluid included, weighed four
ounces avoirdupois. Now look on it as certain
that the same persons who did not make whit the
worse dinner on account of the oysters, would have
been completely satisfied if they had eaten the same
weight of flesh chicken.
ANECDoTE.
was at Versailles in 1898, as commissary of the
Directory, and frequently met NJ Laperte, greffier
of the court of the department. He was very fond
of oysters and used to complain that he never had
enough.
resolved to procure him this satisfaction and in
vited him to dine with me the next day.
He came. kept company with him to the tenth
dozen, after which let him go ON alone. He man
aged to eat thirty-two dozen within hour, for
the person who opened them not very skillful.
In the interim idle and as that is always pain
Jul state at the table stopped him at the moment
not eat as many oysters to-day as you desired-let
US dine. We did so, and he ate as if he had tasted
for a week.
DIFFERENT MODES OF PREPARING COFFEE.
Some years ago, much attention was directed to
the best mode of preparing Coffee. Some proposed
not to burn nor to powder it, to boil it for three
quarters of an hour, to strain it, &c.
have tried all the methods which have been
as a Ia Doubeory, which consists in pouring boiling
water on Coffee placed in a porcelain or silver
sci pierced with number of very minute holes.
This first decoction shouldbe brought to the boiling
point, then passed through the srainer again, and
a coffee will be obtained, clear and strong pos
sble.
have also tried to make coffee in a high pressure
boiling apparatus; all / obtained, however, was a
fluid, intensely bitter, and strong enough to take
the skin from the throat of a Cossack.
TRUE METHOD OF PREPARING CHOCOLATE.
In South America they make their Chocolate
without sugar. When they wish to take chocolate,
they send for chocolate. Every one throws into
MS cup as much cocoa as it needs, pours warm
wishes. = =
This method, neither suits our habits nor our
tastes; for we wish chocolate to come to us ready
prepared.
In TINS state trenscendental chemistry has taught
that 1t should neither be rasped with the knife nor
bruised with peste, because thus portion of the
sugar is converted into starch. and the drink il
made less attractive
:. Thus to make Chocolate, that is to say, to make
IL MT for immediate use, about an ounce and half
should be taken for each cup which should be slowly
dissolved in water while it is heated and stirred from
time to time with spatula of wood. 1t should be
boiled for quarter of an hour in order to give it