The weekly hawk-eye. [volume] (Burlington, Iowa) 1858-1860, 1858-05-04

n tosesupendcscs ef - QAic,p Frfinre. ls&ssa
Nev Teri, April ~
! ncoaohr TIE FASHION, HEW 1faIM0 cocuo
MI Fststgn -impostations loe he past lire
! Inosshs are ssid 70 have fallsn on lhissy4 :,
@lMsoas below the 6guroo Of ~ corfeenSs 2in,
. ame last year. and this Aocountp for thafmnrrs
} son Of cheapness, which ono obtains lsosn 4
, inspection Of oil new spring goods. Very fev
costly novelties are exhibited, but instead o.,
huge piles OF "reducedn lawns beraRee. all i,
, old fashioaeds shses-aoancsd robe styles, vhicl
can be obtained for next to nothing. and or,
, sold at . slight advance on the original Cost
Few ladles ask for what there IL new, but fo
"aAt there is cheap. Scarcely any India sl,awls
or very costly laces, are exhibited, and tn,
, price in many Snssanees u reduced third grou
last year. The most elegant fabrics imported
have, in many instances not touched tho shelves
Of the Broadway merchant, but have been sole
: out Of the Custom House to Southern traders
, who oifsr the only market for expensive forcig,
manufacturer.
An instance Of this was found in some elegant
organize robes, in entirely new designs, import
; ed BY Ubsdell, Person 4 Lake, of this city
) The style is considered the most beautiful oI
any which have been introduced this season,
and every one vas monepolized by New Orleans,
Charleston, St. Louis and Philadelphis iner-
chants, before they arrived in the port.
The texture Of these robes Is very fine and
clear, with small chinix figure on the white
ground. The lower skirt is full and plain, but
upon the upper one three gnilles or each
side, which are printed in very rich design
and are almost equal to an oil painting. "A
narrow border accompanies that part intended
for the corsage, which is designed to be made
up in the following manner: Plain high back,
with surplice front, deeply pointed at the
waist, but without bascues. Instead OF the I'M.
hnn Alnn :,f &, IT, i'll
this style, lace chemisette 10 inserted, which
terminates 10 square across the bosom. This 10
made Of delicate Maltese, an inch wide, upon
foundation Of net. The sleeves are cut square,
the full width Of the muslin, are open TO the
| shoulder, and simply gathered at the top The
length may be varied to suit the taste, but must
not be less than half yard, or exceed three
quarters. The border is placed fat round the
neck, aud down the front Of the waist, and upon
the two upper sides, aud across the bottom of
| the sleeves.
new material has been imported, called
nouisiin de sole, or silk muslin. The texture is
transparent as the finest muslin, and exceed
ingly lnstrous. 1t is sold both by the yard, and
in robes, some OF which have double skirts
with quilles, others founccd, and still others
plain skirts with the broad side stripe The
patterns are generally small checks and plaids,
in single and variegated colors; with chintz
border or stripe.
No novelty, however equals the finer styles
OF grena0ine and organdie. In grenadine, cs-
pecially, it is quite impossible to describe the
soft, luxurious tropical beauty which fingers in
the borders Of gaily covered silk moss. lightly
resting on the transparent surface Of the robe.
Grenadne with silk founces, woven in chintz |
pattern, and edged with two rows of narrow
fringe, is also much admired, but does not pos. |
sees the charming voluptuous grace of the style |
before mentioned.
The lightest aud thinnest tissues, with full |
expanse Of crinollne, is ore than ever the rage,
the sleeves and all the aduncts Of the toilette |
being arranged to correspond
To wear with the open, or hanging sleeve,
iul balloon sleeves are made Of the finest null,
over yard wide, gathered into narrow band |
at the top, and small embroidered or lace cuff /
at the wrist, which is fastened with a bow and |
ends of black or rose-coored ribbon. Some
times they are separated into puffs by lace in.
sertion, through which ribbon is run, but this
style is better adapted to silk, satin or velvet
robes.
For rich dinner dress, sleeve is made of
ine null, called the marguise. It is composed
Of one large puff. which reaches nearly TO the
elbows, and terminates in deep pointed lace
tounce. The dress sleeve is short, dee penine
towards the centre, and flows gracefully over
the full putting OF the null.
For summer morning dresses, there is nothing
SO pretty as a skirt and jacket of fine white
India muslin; the skirt is Ornamented with two
deep hounces, plainly hemmed, and the front of
the jacket with rows of violet ribbon. great
variety Of pretty fabrics are exhibited, however.
for this purpose, among which are small figured
chintZ tonfdrd silks, delicate French calicoes.
" tn boz dered upper skirt, fine French lawns
and brilliants in small chntz patterns, and the
hoo, ;l,,If, IL \ M
very snowy and striking fringes imported ex-
pressly Tor skirts and to be worn with pique
jackets or skirt tunics Of embroidered muslin.
Travelling costumes are imperatively required
10 be quiet in color and uniformly subdued in
tone; durability also being desirable in the fa-
brio. Valenoias, cballiette, popnette, French
and the small checked summer silks
are all excellent and may be made with Talma
or circular OF the same material. Where this is
not the case, circulars OF Melton cloth in mode
colors are worn, or the still more stylish Rag
Ian with white sleeves and deep border. of a
| ghter shade in the came color.
The most distiny uished style in bonnet. which
has appeared for this purpose is the Marie Stu
art, from "Erard's," Paris, with straw front.
silk cup crown, aud 6ar6e of lace or straw
across the top.
Gloves are Of DARK gray or brown kid, with
enamcled gauntlet cuffs, which lay smooth over
the cuffs Of the dress.
NANTIES, ILLUMINATED TRIMMINGS THE PRINCESS
OF PRUSSIA.
Fashionable nantes and even shawls are all !
transparent, very delicate in texture, and most. I
y confined to white and black. The exceptions |
IRE in favor OF the striped silk shawls and drab .
'loaks, of which spoke 10 my last letter. These
tyles, strange to say, so striking and distiag.e,
AXE better at the South than with us, the ladies
u New fork-with few exceptions-being {
erribly afraid of venturing on any thing which
avors Of originality. A few have been seen at .
au>ards Concerts, but none as yet on the pro.
nenade. c
The most elegant nantes are immensely large, a
eachlDg nearly to the bottom Of the Dress /.
he small scarf or shawl shaped, generally ter.
innate in one or two full Aounces, the lower p
ne being three quarters of yard deep. These p
onslst OF foundation Of net, ornalnented with "
'ws OF pointed or scolloped guipure lace, in +.
srspersed with bugles narrow velvet or moss y
and soft, round, pendant moss balls. "
his style Is sometimes wholly composed of Of
rench point lace, the scarf for the shoulder >,
eing exceedingly small, and tie flowers of ex. :
aordinary depth and fulness. "
For this month nantes are ma de almost on Il
rely OF black tatfeta. The new spring silk Y;
oak is very large, of the circular shape, and
immed with rows Of silk putting, containing
70 each, edged with rich fringe. pointed n,
bod, turned over in the halt handkerchief =.
yle, is made to match. Another style is laid "
box plaiis at the top, commencing on each OF
de Of the center, and extending around to the uE
ont. Over these bands of velvet or EN- Nc
ess" chenelle trimming, are placed enethwise,
i'll rich tasscls; these hang at such
tervals AS to form the shape OF scarf around %,
e shoulders. 81
Imported nantes are made entirely of silk. La
I'd trimmed with ruffles or putting Of the same. m,
pom some narrow heading is formed oflight- in
varlegated velvet, as minute as only TO look
e a rainbow tint between the waves of the 1'
x. This is called illuminated trimming" pr
d has beautiful effect; it is intended cspe.
lily TO accompany the elegant tulle and chip
Is mentioned in my last as affording SO novel Du
contrast with the pretty velvet decoration. ma
The gem of the season, in nantes, IS called
; princess of Prussia" and was designed at "u
} supesb establishment of Charles Street L Co. to
is intended expressly for this month, and ma
'uld have been called the Queen Of May."- LIZ,
Is very large, and consists of broad, alternate \,
lpes OF silk and fine grcnadine, into which is 'oe
ven an exquisite design in frosted velvet tlo'
Q at I'll l.Aa L &c