The Lambertville press. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1858-1???, 1858-11-11

chaJd grass. Immediately about the trunk OF
the trees the grass should be kept away, the
better to guard against harboring the larvae OF
borers. Every second year, the orchard under
the trees should have a good top dressing OF
guano or very well rotted manure | mention
this here because it is so often recommended to
keep an orchard under culture in order to sup
ply manure to the trees The system recon-
mend is better.
Established orchards, on thin or impoverished
soil NAV be renovated in the following manner
IF tree has been planted say fifteen years, and
attained the size we might expect in that time
get, say ten feet from the trunk, and dig
circle two feet deep all around it, and fill in with
good compost, the effect the next season will
be quite marked. If the tree is older or younger
the distance to the start with the circle from the
trunk will of course be proportionate A top
dressing viii also be Of great assistance as well
as vigorous pruning out of all the weak or
stunted branches Moss and old bark should
be also scraped off, and if the trunk and main
branches can be washed with mixture OF sui
phur and soft soap, much advantage will follow
Old decayed bark on fruit trees is always sign
of a want. of vigor. When tree is growing
thrifty it cracks this old bark SO freely as to
make it easily fall off but when the tree is
weak and enfeebled, the bark often becomes in
dufated before it has got cracked, and in this
state the tree becomes what gardeners call hide
bound" and artificial means must be afforded
to aid the tree to recover. In the cherry and
plum trees this is easily done, by making longi
tudinal missions through the bark with sharp
knife In the Peach and Apricot also, have
employed this process with advantage in spite
of learned theories which have attempted to
show up the absurdity of the practice.
Sometimes fruit trees are unproductive from
other causes than poverty of the SOIL or neglect
of the orchardist. They often grow too luxurl-
antly to bear well. In this case root pruning
is very effectual, and is performed in similar
way to that described above by digging circle
around the tree, except that the circle is made
closer to the trunk Of the tree. A fifteen year
old tree for instance, may be encircled at i've
feet from the trunk No rule can be laid down
for this. Judgment must be exercised. Ii cut
too close the tree may be stunted for years, and
if too far, it will not be effective. The aim
should be to reduce the roots about one third
Almost all established orchards should have
an annual visit from the primer at this season
Weak growing trees or those which over-borne,
will be benefited by vigorous application of
the same and knife. Free growing trees on the
other hand, VIII need only those branches taken
out that are likely to cross and interfere with
branches in summer, becauses the wounds heal
over at once but if the wounds are painted, as
they should be, no injury will accrue from that
source while the injury to the tree from the sud
den loss of large mass of foliage will not oc-
cur.
In planting fruit trees the Pear, Apple, and
Cherry, invariably do better fall-planted, than
when deferred till spring, north of Philadelphia.
The Peach, Plum and Apricot, should not be
planted till spring, if not done before the frost of
November. All fruit trees when set out, should
be vigorously shortened in. Trees should not be
planted deep-no deeper than they grew before
removal 1t is better to draw mound of soil
about them for the winter, to be removed early
in spring; it preserves from frost and throws
off superintendent moisture. Dwarf Pears must
be set below the Ounce stock-and in selecting
these, choose those that are budded near the
ground-where a long-legged ounce stock has
to be buried so deep, the tree makes but poor
growth for some seasons afterwards, and is in
other respects injured. In severe climates,
Cherries of very luxuriant growth are liable to
be winter killed. To obViate this, the weaker
growing kinds as the Duke and Morello, and
the Mahaleb, are used for stocks to graft them in
This checks their vigor, and renders them har-
der 1t however, always keeps them dwarf
Where danger of winter killing exists these
strong growing kinds should not have highly
MANFRED SOIL and where they yet grow very Wig
orous when young, they may be root pruned as
already described If they can be got through
the first ten years of their life, till they lose their
youthful vigor, they will not suffer in severe
winters afterwards.
Much attention is now given to small fruits
They who have depended the past year on their
orchards have been driven for fruit, to green To-
matoes and Elder berries and will now plant
Currants, Gooseberries, Raspberries Strawber-
ries and Blackberries These can generally be
depended on,--and near a large city are always
source of profit.
The three first named like moist subsoi, and
a situation not exposed to drying winds. The
Strawberry and Blackberry will do in drier
soil, and warmer situation. The Blackberry has
now become an important fruit but should not
be planted where its creeping roots will be an
objection. There are always odd corners y
where such plants become just the required thing
to fill with. The Strawberry, Blackberry and
Raspberry, should be protected in winter. north
of Philadelp hia-most of them are hardy enough
to stand without this care, but it is better to en-
ploy it, nevertheless. Strawberries may have
leaves or straw litter thrown over them, and
little soil thrown over to keep the wind from blow
ing them away Raspberries and Blackberries
should have their last season bearing shoots Ia
ken out, the young canes pruned, so that three
or four of the strongest only are left and then
laid down and covered with soil To do this
without breaking them, dig out spade full of
earth on one side of the hill, and with the heel
press the stock over. The inclination will be