The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1858-05-13
kite HEN PHY.SIC.

One foggy winter morning, about twenty
years ago, an elderly man, whose walk and
manner still retained much of the activity Of
earlier days, might have been seen making his
way across the Pont Neuf in Paris, and beta
king himself by the Rue Dauphine and the
Quai des Grands Augustus, in the direction oil
the well-known edifce, with its three long par
aiiei Galleries, which serves as q market for the
sale of game and poultry.
Though the morning was raw and chilly, be
wore neither cloak nor overcost, but appeared
rather as though he might have Just Quilted
some evening party. he was tall, his back
slightly rounded by the weight of his sixty
years; his costume was partly that of an hobitu<
of the Court, partly that Of an officer in the
army. His linen, which was remarkably 6ne
and white, displayed q profusion of costly lace
his cravat was of satin, and the rest of his dress
of black kerseymere. 1t was evident that this
early visitant to the poultry market was no vul.
gar customer his small black eyes were bright
and piercing his lips, though somewhat sen.
sual in expression, would have revealed to O
disciple of Lavater nature both subtle and
generous; and his gait aud manner were At
once those of man of rank and of q man Of
the world. asa
No sooner had he entered the poultry mar.
ket than q chorus of welcomes and questions
saluted his appearance.
"Good morning, Monsieur lie Marquis" cried
one of the market danes.
"What is Monsieur lie Marquis looking for
this morning2" demanded second.
1t Monsieur lie Marquis will give himself
the trouble to come this way, 1 have something
that l think will please him." cried third. :
1t was evident that the stranger to whom
these remarks we're addressed could be no
other than one of the gastronomic celebrities
of the day, the Marquis de Cussy, formerly
chief purveyor to the Emperor Napoleon, and
one OF the most illustrious gourmands Of the
nineteenth century. Witty and skepAcal, -
men OF his sybaritic temperament are apt 70
be, he was by no means deficient in probity or
kindness, and never missed an occasion for
doing good in his own way to those with whom
he was brought into contact. He had declined
all the overtures made to him by those Of his
friends who had come into power with the res
tofation; but had resumed his post at the Tuil.
cries after the Goth Of March. When the news
Of Waterloo reached him, he was heard TO ex.
claim, in bitterness of soul, Auoas, my sauce
pans are all upset again i"
The following year friend obtained fog the
ex.purveyor sinecure of FIVE thousand francs
. year. II can live upon this sum-" be re-
marked, resignedly, I" it will find me crust of
bread and q morsel of Gruyere cheese"
Only one sentence worth listening to has
been uttered in modern days" he was accus-
toned to say, and that was the remark made
by Henrion de Passy: l shall believe in pro-
grsss, when see cook among the members Of
the Institute.'" - /
The Marquis de Cussy lunched at noon and
dinsd at six o'clock. His table was open ell
the year round to any who demanded his
hospitality, and his conversation was - brilliant
a. his cheer. The fame of his skill suA iudg-
msnt in all matters connected with the table
had spread far and wide, and he was overwhelm,
ed with commissions by the most renowned %.
attachments Of France and England. In Paris
he vas constantly being called upon to pro
nounce on the relative quality of rival culinary
preparations and his word was law in al the
markets of the capital, to which he was accus-
TONED 10 repair very sarly IN tho incoming, alone
and on foot, - We have seen. he vas payticu-
LARRY fond Of attacking the principles laid down
by his rival in gsstronomic renown, Brillat-
Swarm, in his treatise on the Physiology Of
Taste. Thus BrillatS svarin says there ought
to be twelve persons at table; the MARQUIS de
-" That 10 not the right number; the Salsr.
nian school, so wise on such subjects, inculcated
the principle, Never be fewer than the Three
Graces never be more than the Nine Muses.
For my part, say, Be three, six, OF nine, ct
He advises his disciples to drink bat few
drops Of wine at q time, and was fond of repeat.
ing that /" the true gourmand would never eat
when not hungry" Brillat-Savarin gives two
dozen of oysters as the proper allowance for
each guest, and advises that they be opened
and placed upon the table beforehand.
T"Prcfessor," would retort the MARQUIS, "oys.
tess opened beforehand, and perhaps even de-
tached from the shelll Why, suoh counsel is
the very extreme of barbarian; and can only
excuse you by remembering that you come
from an inland department. Brillat-Ssvarin I'D.