New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1858-05-11
DsyaYd Taylor in Southern Europe
No. LII.
A CREAM JOURNEY.
Correspondence Ct The n y. Tdtuns-

Nc wild mountain region '" =,
Ieycpd the White Mountains, 10 Inc s'u'""o'"'"
corner Of the island. This dist''et pear s'",n"
.s;o, 70 the res. of Crete, a. that OF Mama d'es
q. G,.... hing inhabited BY 8 savage remnant OF
-. ...;.,t ,.er who, until within very fey
- h.xe maintained virtual independence. II
- ,usb ut Of tbe.way corners that the physical
.a.,,eteristics Of the original stock must no be
a.o,,d for. have long believed tha. some r.!ls Of
p.Is ME blood must stiIl continue TO flow on tho an
s,spt sol untouched by those Slavonc AMI Ottoman
iuundaaons which have well nigh washed IL out
sftbe modern race was quite sure that in sf,hi,
where dAlec., coDjsctured to be the Old C'etan-
DOric, 10 std spoken, should find the Legitimate
stoek-the common, not the heroic type, preserved
slxoAst intact. The passes of the White Mountains
are difhcul. a. all seasons, and ascertaned that
Tie 1vloseals, or wooden ladder" by which had
intended TO reach that District was not to be
reached ON account of the snow; but there 10
saother road around the eastern base of the moun-
tAins, and determined to try it.
The Pssbs endeayored to dissuade ne from the
attempt. 1.-The roads 10 Crete" said be, "a-e
absolutely frightfu'; and though as traveller, you
mast DO prepared for any experience, ye', when
tAe season ia bad, they become quite impossible,
even 10 the natives. have had a csrriage-road
surveyed and located from here to Heraceon and
. small portion Of it is already finished, near
Rhtbymnos but the people oppose Il with all their
might and at least fve or years must eiapse be-
fore enough is done TO demonstrate to them the use
ana value ofsuch improvements. am satisfied thai
Turkey will never advance until she has means OF
fg.;a 70 ka hpr MI
sources available. This is the first step toward the
regeneration Of the Orent--and the only first step
h the path Of true progress. The power and civil
isation Of Europe rest on this foundation" There
\ great truth in these remarks, and L wish had
Tine to give you .ketch of the Pashas views on
Tie Oriental question. They disclosed an enlght-
Sned and practical mind, the rarest apparition
msDg the Governors Of the East.
At last, On the morning of our departure, the
Pssbs sent me Captain Nikeph'ro, dashing
Sfakiote cheftsin, who ordered to accompany
~ through the territory, as guide and guard. He
vss tall, handsome fellow, with fiery black eyes,
raven hair and mUstsche, and an esgle's beak of
poee. Apair Of long, silver mounted pistols, and
yssaQhan, with silver hilt aud scabbard, adorned
his belt. Hadj Bey wore his blue uniform aui
ssber, and vas mounted sturdy gray horse
The chief muleteer Anagnost, who wal chosen
br ne by the Consuls dragoman, as an honest aud
sAiDful msn (snd whom we have 1st discharged as
Ne very opposite), was also mounted, 50 that,
with eur two baggsge-mules, We made quite
respectable caravan. The Consul, who had hospi-
tably entertained us during our stay accompanied
u to the gates of Khsnia and set off on our first
in ha idsf of 81 hisk al
The road to Suds, four miles, is broad, car
yiAgeable way, leading through the rich plain OF |
Khana. Peasants were busy blowing the mellow,
dark red loam Vineyards, olive orchards and |
wheat fields succeeded each other, aud the flourish
ing villages on the lower slopes of the mouatsins GA
eur right shimmered through the gray veil of the
filling showers. Suds is deep, beautiful bay
epen only toward the northeast, where an old |
Venetian fortress, on a rocky island, commands its
mouth The ground at its head is msrshy, AMI near
IL shore there are salt pans. vely Pashs how
aver. has the intention of draining these marshes
snd building up town on the spot. better stua-
Ton, IN fact, could scarcely be found on the island
Our road followed the shore for short distance,
nd then began to climb the base of Mount Mala1s,
which lowered far above US, it's summit wrapped
in clouds. This is probably the ancient Bereeyn-
thus, the scene Of the Idean Dactys, where fire
Vas frst brought down from heaven, and metal
ipsaed. An.iquares are divided in opinion, some
Affirming that the mountain is of cacsreous rock
(which it certainly s)-others that it Is schistose,
and may therefore contain veins of metal. l do
not see that this question is of much importance
An myths xad q location, of course aud in the
days when they formed a part of the prevalent re-
Kgion, men were not in the habit of testing themby
nsuiry and research MalsIa corresponds, geOgraph-
icaly, with position Of Berecynthus aud we need
ust trouble our heads about the rect. Clumps of
myrtle and oleander filed tbs gens, and the mastc
shrub, sage and wild thyme covered the stony
shoulders Of the hills. We uploddedOn in the rain,
passing here and there 8 ruined Keep, climbing
rocky ladders, or slipping on the polished surfase
Of an old road where the stones had been laid TO-
eether in some sort of order After three hours,
when We were all tolerably WEI, cold aud hungry,
We crossed the crest Of the shore hills and came
spou the broad table-land of ApOkorona, ut the
eastern base Of the White Mountains. Chee,ed by
he hope Of soon reaching our destination-a mon
ssssry at Paleokastros, on the site Of Aptera-we
hArried on 10 little village. The people crowded
b the doors TO see us and give us directions.
"Good day, palikar," said woman whom /
greeted The men, all Of whom had very cheerful
and friendly faces, accompanied us little distance
b point out the road, and tore down the atone
fncee for our mules, that We might ind a shorter
way scross their fields.