New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1858-06-03
Nswgork DAILY @ribm,,e.

No. LVI.
TWO DAYS WITH AN ARCHBISHOP.

WV OhIO WA dN AIbNhDlCuOIs
Corr,posdenee Of The N Y. Tribune
ATHENS, March Is, 1853.
The chief city Of Crete il known IN Europe by
its Venetian name OF Gambia, which during the
Middle Ages was applied to the whole Island. The
country people, however, Invariably speak of it a.
Megalo-kastron, or the Great Fortress, whns the
educated Greeks, both in Crete and elsewhere, have
restored the ancient name Of Heracleiop which was
. small seaport, near CnOssus. Of these names,
the latter is preferable, and have therefore en-
ployed it in former letters. Both among Greeks
and Turks, the leland has always retained the name
Of Crete" instead Of the bastard Venetian name
Of Gambia" which is only just beginning TO be
hDquished in Europe. The latter word is never
heard in the ORIENT and we have no longer any
night to use it. / have employed the classic name
as the only correct one.
At HeracleioD, as at Rhithymnos, was pro-
vided with double Recommendation, through the
kindness Of Vely Pasha, and the choice Of taking
up my abode either with the Turkish Governor, OF
the venerable Metropolitan (Archbishop)o Of Crete.
The hate manifested toward the latter BY the big
oted Greek party in the island and their intrgues
to have him removed by the Patriarch Of the
Church, at ConstantinoPle, convinced me that he
must be good man. and therefore determined to
elaim his hospitality. We reached the city early In
the afternoon, in very battered and rusty condi
ton, splasbed with mud from head TO foot, and, as
we threaded the streets on our jaded mules, were
the objects of general curiosity. Travellers are yet
so scarce in Crete as TO be persOnsges of some i'm
portanee. Hsdj Bey guided us to the Metropol-
itan's residence, large, rambling building, with
three separate court yards, chapel and large gar
den. His Holiness was not at home, but We were
courteousy received by several priests and Sec
rotary who spoke Italian. They ct once sppropr-
ated room to our use, entertained as with pipes
and coffee in the large audience room, and then con-
siderately allowed us to withdraw and change our
clothes.
Presently, the arrival Of The metropolitan was
announced, and We found him waiting for US at the
foot of the steps. His age is si1ty-three; he is
little under the medium hight but erect and COM
mandiDg in his appearance, with large, intelligent
benevolent gray eyes, strong, straight, Albanian
nose, and majestic silver beard, which falls to his
grdle. He wore long, cinnamon. colored robe,
over which was dark green pelisae, trimmed with
fur, and the usual round black cap of the Greek
priesthood, which somewhat resembles an inverted
sauce. kettle There was no fear Of mistranslating
the look of welcome upon that reverend face, or
the cordial grasp of bis extended hand. The e1-
tent of his hospitality will be better understood
when / state what we only learned on leavng)
that he had made preparations for his departure
into the interior on the morrow, and Immediately
postponed the journey on our account Still hold
ing my band he led US up stairs to the dvan, called
for glvko (sweets "a delicious jelly Of strawberries
prepared at Constantinople- of the finest
Rumeli tobacco and coffee. then gave him the
Pssha's letter and few lines Of greeting from
Elizabeth of Crete.
With Francois help-as it was rather delicate
subject-I said to him that we would not trespass
upon bis hospitality further than to make use Of the
room allotted to US, as we were provided with
every other requisite. He apparently acquesced,
10 our great satisfaction and dispatched Francois
TO rive into the charge Of some Turkish baker, for
cooking, brace Of hares which We had picked up
at Asterakia. Shortly afterward however, when
we had retired from the audience two priests came
to bring us back again, stating that we were to &C.
cuvy the divan. / protested, but in vain. The
metropolitan would hesv Of nothing else, and as
the evenings were s6n COOL he ordered huge
mangoi, or brazier Of Goals, upon which were laid
strips of lemon peel to neutralze the gas and per-
fume the apartment. 1t was lofty, spacious ROOM
with a raised seat covered with damask at the
further end, and thick straw mating on the fioor
The only ornaments were some Byzantine pictures
of the Sacrifice of Abraham, the Murder OF Abel,
and Joseph's adventure with Potphar's wife SIM
p,lar pictures for an ecclesiastical residence AS
was resignng myself to this hospitality and its con-
sequent restraints, the Metropolitan stated that
dinner would soon be ready. So it appeared that
we were doomed to eat at his table, also. Dinner
with an Archbishop, in the midst of Lent! We
were desperately hungry and the hares, thought,
must be nearly done by this time. Farewell, Wis.,
ions of the savory roast, and the OdOriferous stew
Garlic and pulse are our portion.
It was after dark when we were summoned, and
descended together to a lower room, where the
Metropolitan sat down to the table with us, while
two priests stood by to wait upon uf. There were
two salads, plate of olives, and some bread. We
groaned in spirit, as We thought of the feshpots OF
Egypt-as the officials Of Berlin grOaned, when they
beAeld Mr. wnght's temperance breakfast. En-
forced holiness is even worse than enforced tee
totaism. The priests handed Us plates OF soup.
Hot grue thought; but no, il had flavor OF
chicken, and before the plates were emptied,
heretcsl boiled fowl was placed under my very
nose. Then o miracle marched in our hares,
dripping with balmy sauce-cooked as never hares
80. .ooksd hafoya Meanwhike the rubv blood