Litchfield enquirer., 1858-06-24
LITcHF1ELD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, ,s5s

portly ecclesiastics, whose plump legs were en-
 cased Ill purple stockings, while little way
 behind them marched three servants in livery,
 and at still further distance, followed two
 carriages with purple cushions and trimmings. They are cardinals poor fellows" said our friend they are not allowed to walk in the
 streets of Rome; the dignity of their office forblds 1t. So, whenever they are inclined to l fetch walk, they are obliged to order their l carriages and drive out to this solitary Cam
 pagna, where they can get out and stretch l their legs without apprehension. A cardinal,
 who lives near the church of Trinata del Mon i te, was dcsirous to walk to the church, and talked to be so far indulged, but his application was denied" Their eminences, l suppose,
 were going.to look at the newly discovered
 sepulchres.
 Besides what he is doing on the Tia Latina,
 the Pope is digging away vigorously at Ostia
 on the sea-shore. Here the foundations of several, villas of vast dimensions, with the low
 CT part of their wallis, have been uncovered,
 and large number of statues have been found.
 It has, been an infinite relief to us to come
 away from the noisy and dirty city of Naples, | swarmng with blackguards and beggars, pass few days in this quiet place. 1 re-
 member when Rome was dirty as Naples it has now become city of clean, well-swept streets-a city from which New York might, in this respect, take example. There is here
 no ostentatious display of rags and disgusting
 deformities by those who ask aims, such as you encounter at every step you take in Naples. There are beggars here, it is true-quite
 enough of them-but not as many as formerly. Every time come to Rome see some exterl,- al change for the better Iperceive that some thing has been done for the establishment of the city->o for the public convenience. Since
 l was here last, five years since, the New Ap- plan Way, broad, well-paved road, with
 causeways over the hollows, leading from Rome to Gensano, has been completed, crossing the beautiful woody glen of Lariccia and the deep
 ravine of Gensano, with stupendcus bridges, wh oh if they make the road less pretty, short
 en it greatly and keep it at a convenient level. Within few years past the small round stones
 with which the streets of Rome were formerly
 paved, and which were the torture and the ter TOT of all tender footed people, have been talk en up, and the city is now paved throughout
 with small cubic blocks of stone, which present much smoother and more even surface. The SGTcclS III WClS HUI NCIy lOuS dSO, UG- wilderingly dark; they are now well-lighted
 with gas. New houses have been built, and r those who have employed their money in this way l am told, fiud their advantage in it. =
 Studios for painters are erected on the tops of
 cid houses, the lower rooms of which are let to sculptors yet 1 hear that last winter, not wthstanding the number of new studios which have been built, there was not vacant one to be had at any price.
 The increase ill the number of houses implies
 an increase in the number of artists residing
 here and Rome is now more the great general
 school of art than ever. When first came
 to.this place, in 1885 there was not an Ameri-
 can artist at Rome, that could hear of now
 the painters and sculptors from our country are
 numerous enough to form little community {;
 they amount, every winter, to thirty or more
 The veterans of art from different parts of the European continent sometimes come, in quiet
 way, to pass a winter at Rome. Cornelius, whose frescoes are seen on the walls and cell ings of the finest public buildings of Munich, was
 here last winter, and occupied the same rooms which formed his studio when, more than thir- ty years slice, he was here to study the grand
 frescoes of Micheal Angelo, Raphael and Gui- do. 1 perceive that in the EVENING PosT very full accounts have been given of what the American artists here are doing, so that with regard to them I have nothing to tell which
 would be news. It is remarkable that they
 find Rome better place for obtaining orders from their own countrymen than any of the American cities. Men who would never have
 thought of buying a picture or a statue at
 home, are infected by the contagion of the fbo thov N1 oe xL
 money market here no discussion of any pub
 lie measure no conversation respecting new
 enterprises and the ebb and flow of trade no price current except of marble and canvass : all the talk is, of art and artists. The rich
 man who, at home, is coDtented with mirrors and rosewood, is here initiated into new set of ideas, gets taste, and orders bust-a lit
 tie statue of Eve, Ruth or Rehecca, and
 half dozen pictures, for his luxurious rooms in the United States
 You have heard of the death of poor Bar
 t' omew, the sculptor. He came to the ho-
 tel at Naples, where was, the evening before
 l went with my family to Castellamare was
 absent a week, and when came back he was
 dead and ill his grave. He had fought hard
 battle with poverty, and had just won it or
 ders were beginning to come in upon him from
 all quarters, and his great grief, when he
 breathed his last, was, that he could not place his mother ln that state of comfort which he
 would easily have secured to her if a brief re- spite from death had been allowed him.. l
 have been to his studio since my arrival in Rome, and there saw the last work of his
 hand-a fine statue, justifying the reputation
 he has lately acquired Eve, after the Fall, in an attitude of detection. and wearing an ex-
 pressien of profound sorrow. I could scarcely help fancJing that the marble figure mourned the death of the artist to whom it owed it's be- ing.
 The French hold Rome yet--for the Pope. Every morning the sureets resound with the
 tramp of Galic cavalry. Troops of heavy Norman horses drink from troughs filled by the waters of the Claudian aqueduct, and in the