New-York daily tribune., 1858-08-09
4 SUMNER CRUISE on THE COAST OF
NEB-ENGLAND.. LII.
Bailty's Island, Ne, July %, 1858.
Correspondence Of The n. Y. Tribune.
MACKEREL Cow,


When we went on deck in the morning, Wednes-
day July 7, the tky was cloudless, the breeze
gentle and the long length of Provincetown, bril-
liant with white paint, stretched before US gleam-
ing in the soft, warm sunshine 1t is village OF
5000 inhabitants, dwelling 10 five or six hundred
houses, nearly all Of which stand on one narrow
street that ruDs along the shore of the harbor be-
tween the water and ridge of huge sandhills. The
skipper took the dory and went ashore in search OF
soft tack loaf bread. He could not set any,
and we breakfasted on hard tack, founders and
coffee. After breakfast We all went ashore to see
the place, except the Assyrian, who protested that
he had seen enough of 1t. go .
Having suffered for several days with violent
toothache my fret business was to visit the dentist
of whom the Assyrian had made mention. In the
search for him We discovered so many OF the same
pr roieseion that We we're forced 10 form unayorabe
conclusions about the state of the teeth of the Cape
Codders These numerous dentists, however, did
not all make living by their profession, for we
found that one Of them combined with IT the calling
of an auctioneer and of a hardware and furniture
dealer. The one whom We sought, Dr. Atkins OF
the Union House, was dentist and nothing else.
He did bis business well, and relieved me of my
offending molar in dexterOus manner. His office
apparently comprised the whole of a deserted
hotel, the chief room Of which, used at times for
dancing, had q curious resemblance to ships
cabin on large scale, as beftted the maritime
character Of the town.
Az the Professor desired TO examine beach four
or FIVE miles distant, bch the Atlantic rolls ts
waves Unchecked by any land nearer than the far
of bright Azores" We hired a wagon, a span Of
horses and queer little urchin of driver TO con-
duct us thheroyer the sand hills. In few minutes
We had left behind us the single street of the village
and merged into desert OF white sand that locked
as if il had been some time rolled into high waves
by raging tempest and then suddenly arrested
and fixed before it had time 10 subsde to a level.
Here and there in the dells and holOws were
patches of vegetation, alders huckleberry bushes,
low pitch pines, scrub-Oaks and clumps OF wild
roses glowing with the brilliant hues which the sea
air gives to flowers. But outside of the village
there were no houses, fences, paths, any traces
whatever Of man or beast. 1t was wilderness, rs
il was when il first met the eyes of the May-Flower
pilgrims. The horses that tugged us onward had
the muscles of their rumps unusually developed
from working always fetlock deep in sand.
AT length We gained the shore and stood by the
sea
The boundess ses, that washeth many lards.'
As Iieine sings
"The pillows rolling,
Were rolling and roaring,
The sun poured down incesssnt;
Aff'ighed the hocts OF the sea news
Fluttered away, loud screaming
prodiglous multitude Of terms flew up at our
approach, and wheeled around in the air changing
their wild and piercing cries. No other signs OF
life were visible, save few white sails far away on
the horizon. Signs OF death were around US in the
shape Of fragments Of wrecks thrown high on the
beach BY storms | picked up piece of bamboo
which perhaps had Aoated from some vessel return.
ing from India or China, or the isles OF the East.
The Professor strolled one way and the artist
another IN search OF specimens, and presently dis
appeared behind the curylng sand hills. The urchin
Of driver busted himself commercially with bring.
ing from the nearest patch of green roots Of spe
cies Of binding grass, which be planted here and
there in the desert sand TO grow and spread. More
idly inclined than either Of these, and feeling per.
haps unusually poetical after getting nd of my ach
ing molsr, SAT down on q piece of wreck and
abandoned myself TO the spirit of Whittiers lines
on Hampton Beach;
Gocd.by to pain ard care l take
Mine ease to-dsy;
Here where the sunny waters break,
And ripples this keen breeze, l shake
All burdens f0m the heart al weary thoughts away.
| draw q freer breath; i seem
Like all lee
Waves ia the SUE, the white ged CLEAN
Ofses.b birds in the ssl ting beam,
Ard farof sals which fit before the south wndfree
What heed of the dusty land
And roisy town
see the mighty deep expand
From its white line OF ghmmerirg sand
To sbere the blue OF heaven on bluer waves shuts
down!
In Hs.less quietude Of mind
Iyieh 70 all
The chsrge of cloud and wsve and wind,
And passive or the ground rsoEred,
warder with the waves ard with them rise and fall
The ocean was calm, and at distance looked
like glass. but the tide was coming in and the long
lines of suri were slowly rolling up the sand with
dull, continuous roar.
"Thewsvss :hst plunged slong the shore
Said oply: Dreamer, dream 10 more"
.,irued 20 Iae little urchin who was ously ,ra-s-