New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1858-05-25
Bayard Taylor In Southern Europe
No. LIV.
OUR DEVELOPMENT AT RHlTHYMSOs'

MkLIDOSI, leiAn0 OIL tIcso, w. ~
In my last Jeff you at the gate Of Rhitnymnos'
We looked upon this town a. por: OF refuge s''er
our stormy journey, and it was therefore ma1<ef
Of some importance 70 decide where we shoHa Co.
The Psshs had given me letters to the I0ikisn
Governor and the Greek Bishop. AZ fso1es1aa'
was equally an in6de in the eyes Of eotn o1' tue
Turk il more btspitable than the creek every
where, and the Bishop, besides, was famsnlne lii
the leanness OF lis Lent; SO directed hsd)i ney
10 conduct us to the Governor. We passed 'hrough
q street Of bazaars, wholly Moslem 10 appearance
and soon reached the residence Of the ka'maSa"'
Katlim Bey, near tie port. He wAs absent al TIC
Council but servant-at a hint from our hs'Jl-
conducted US TO a large, unfurnished room' one
half Of which was daI., covered with straw ma
ting, and had our baggage brought up.
Boon afserHard, the Governor arrived. lie
stout man Of about fifty, with an OPEN pleasant
coubtensnce. He is native Of Monsstr, IN Mace
donis, but has served in Syria and Egypt and even
spent some months in Paris. He shook hands cor
daily, ushered rs into bis divan low, bare'y'iur-
nished room, and then read the Pashs's letter. 1
begged him TO assist US in obtaining lodgings IN the
bown, but he declared a. once that he would be
greatly mortified if We thought of leaving his house.
He con,dertd us bis guests, and would feel highly
honored if We would accept such poor quarters as
be could give U.s. so long as We might choose 70
stay After making all allowance for Oriental ex'
sseera.io,, there was still enough left to justify u'
in accepting the Governors ho.pitable offer. Fran.
co.'s managed to hint delcately to him thu. We
we're almost furnished and an early dinner would be
very acceptable. Coffee and pipes were at once or
dered, and repeated again, with many apologies for
the delay, for long time elapsed before dinner was
announced. The table was set in our room, in
quite the European style with two large bottles Of
red Cretan wine. The meal was plentiful and
good, although the dishes were mostly Turkish. We
had soup, pIsu, wild fcnnel stewed in oil. salad
Of spinach, kid with q sauce Of eggs and lemon
Juice, and yarurt, which l had not seen since my
pilgrimage through Aria Minor.
We retired to chibsuks and coffee In the divan.
and then en,ued long conversation between the
Governor and Francois, in alternate Turkish and
Greek. IundertoOd enough Of the latter language
70 see that F.s remarks deIterously turned to
our advantage. He spoke Of us as Beyzadehs, or
hereditary Beys. After giving an account Of our
visit to Khans and the very hospitable reception OF
The Pasha, he related our former travels in the
East and added something about my Journeys in
various parts of the world. The Governor was
much pleased to learn that was more interested
in the country, its productions and people, than 10
IN ts antiquities concerning which he seemed te
entertain no very high opinion. but is that the
Beyzadeh's only object in trsyeiDg'" be asked.
"Does he not get tired of going about the world so
much :" "Ten his EIcellency," said I, that
there 10 nothing better than to know, from personal
experience, the different nations Of the earth; to
learn their languages, 70 observe their character,
habits and laws, and thus to find out what is good
in each" "Mathilah, but that is true enough"
&as the answer.
"ADd then" added FRANCHISE, whatever the
Bty zadeh sees, or hears, or experiences during the
day, be writes down at night. Every day he writes.
and takes all the papers home with him. You
should jus. see him write 1t would take three men
70 keep pace with him-his pen goes go fast. He
has made more than sixty thousand books, all about
his travels" "stop" said ], explain to the
hat perhaps ten or fifteen thousand copies Of each
have been printed and Sold" "Pold prdgmata :"
great things y CALCULATED the Governor. But"
inquired the Secretary, "what does he make these
books for why gre so many Of them sold !" " Don't
you see," said Francois, " that there are many
millions Of persons in America who eaAnot 60 over
he world as the Beg zadeh does, but they want to
know about other countries. Now, when they buy
one Of these books they find in it all the papers
which the Beyzadeh writes every night and they
know lust az much as he does." The Governor ex-
hbited much more than the ordinary Turkish intel.
dgence, and was exceedingly curious TO hear all the
oew. of the world. Fortunately, be had considers-
hon enough to retire early to bis haren and leave
o. to our beds.
On the morrow it It'll rained, in the ssme dresry,
hopeless manner The first thing We did was TO
discharge our lazy, ignorant, msolent Anagnosh,
md bis mules. He was rogue enough to demand
more than the price agreed upon in Khsnis, which
~.s double what had paid in Syria for horses.
We counted out the proper sum, which he left lying
opon the table went out and got drunk, and then
came back and took it. During pause in the
rain, tie Governor sent sergeant with US to show
40 The fortress ore Of those massive, irregular We
oetiAn afairs, for the construction of which lands
we're ruined and people robbed and starved. Over
The gate, and in panels on every bastion, Wa, the
proud lion Of ST. Mark, his head in every instance
Knocked of by the Turks. Splendid bronze guns
10y dismoun.ed on the ramparts, and even the neg.
,ec.ed wsls we're cracking and failing in places.
The amount Of labor and treasure expended BY
IN IL slrrost ip.raJhso NJ