Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1857-05-23

ndSdlL, NY AINtlC
Lover" and whatever else there is Of Polar
poetry, and urged my deer with shouts, and
never once looked behind me until had climb
ed the opposite shore and reached the village.
My companions were then nowhere to be seen.
waited some time before they arrived, Bras-
teds deer having become fractions and run back
with him to the house. His crimson face
shone out from its white frame of icy hair, as
he shouted TO me "There is nothing equal 10
this except riding behind right whale when
he drives to windward, with every man trim
ming the boat, and the spray flying over your
bows -
We now turned norihward through the vii
lage, flying around many sharp corners, but this
found comparatively easy work. But for the
snow had taken in, which now began to melt
got on finely, in spite Of the falling flakes,
which beat in our faces. Won Buch, in his
journey through Lapland in 1907, speaks of
Muonioniska as "a village with an inn where
they have silver spoons.' We stopped at a
house which Mr. Wolley stated was the very
building, but it proved TO be more recent
structure on the site of the old inn. The peo-
pie looked at us with curiosity on hearing we
were Americans. They knew the name of
America, but did not seem to know exactly
where it was.
On leaving the house, we had 10 descend the
steep bank of the river. ! put out my feet TO
steady the pulk, and thereby powed a cataract
of fine snow into my face, completely binding
me. The pulk gave flying leap from the
steepest pitch, flung me out, and the deer, ca
e.. k,, 81
for about twenty yards before | could arrest
him. This was the worst upset Of all, and far
from pleasant, although the temperature was
only zero. ! reached home again without fur
ther mishap, flushed, excited soaked with melt
ed snow, and confident of my ability to drive
reindeer with little more practice.
Since we arrived, the weather has been raw,
dark and lowering, with temperature varying
from deg. above to l3 deg, below zero. This
morning. however, the sky finally cleared, with
cold south wind, and we saw, for the first
time, the range of snowy mountains in the east
The view from our hill before so dismaly
bleak and dark, became broad and beautiful
now that there was a little light to see il by
Beyond the snowy floor OF The lake and the
River Muonio stretched the scattering huts of
Muonioniska. with the church overlooking them,
and tho round, white peak Of Ollastyn,re rising
above his belt of black woods TO the SOUTH
| Further TO the east extended alternate streaks
of dark forest and frozen marsh for eighteen
miles, to the foot Of the mountain range of Pal
asiynlre, which stood like a line Of colossal
snow drifts against the soft violet sky, their
sides touched by the rosily- golden beams of the
invisible sun. This and the valley of the Tor
neaa, at Avasaxa, are the two finest views
have yet seen in Lapland.
have s been segpeyng easi # my siWse sin
Mr.. Woley, finding tha, | wished TO procure
good types of the Firms and Lapps, kindly as
sisted me-his residence Of three years in Mu-
oniovara enabling him 10 know who were the
most marked and peculiar personages. Ludwig
was dispatched 10 procure an old fellow by
the name of Niemi, Finn. who promised TO
comply with my wishes but his ignorance
made him suspicious, and it was necessary to
send again. 81 know what travellers are
said he, "and what habit they have Of get
} ting peoples skulls to carry home with them.
Even if they are arrested for it, they are Sc
rich, they always buy over the Judges. Who
knows but they might Try 10 kill me for the
! sake of my skull - After much persuasion
he was finally induced TO come, and seeing
! that Ludwig supposed he was still afraid, ht
said, with great energy 81 have made NJ
my mind TO go, even if a shower of knives
should fall from heaven " He was seventy
. three yeers old, though he did not appear to b,
5 over sxty-hs hair being thick and black, his
frame erect and sturdy, and his color crimson
b rather than pale. His eyebrow were jet blacl
e and bushy, his eyes large and deep-sei his nos
: strong and prominent, and the corners of hi
e long mouth drawn down in settled curve, ex
n pressing melancholy grimness. The higl
. cheek-bones, square brow and muscular jaw
e belonging to the true Finnish type. He he'll
k perfectly still while drew scarcely moving
S muscle of his face, and succeeded in geltin,
j a portrait which everybody recognized.
+ gave him piece of money, with whic
n he was greatly delighted and, after a emp @
h coffee, in Herr Knobock's kitchen, he wen
home quite proud and satisfied. They d.
!, not at all look like dangerous persons" h
s said 10 the carpenter; "perhaps they do no
s collect skulls. wish they spoke our language
a that might ask them how people live in thei
e country. America is very large, wild place
h ] know all about it, and the discovery of it,
}, / was not there myself at the time, but Jeni
g Lamp, who lives in Kittla, was one of III
1t crew of the ship, and he told me how it haE
l. pened Jenis Lamp said they were going t
is throw the captain overheard, but he persuade
! them TO give him three days, and on The thir
e day they found it, Now should like TO kno,
r, whether these people who come from ths
], country, have laws as we have, and whethe
r they live as comfortably" so saying, Isaal
,, Anderinpoka Niemi departed
ID No sooner had he gone than the old Lap
e woman, Elsa, who had been sent for, drov
g up in her bulk, behind a fast reindeer. Sh
j. was in complete Lapp costume-a blue clot
J. gown with wide sleeves, trimmed with scarle
j, and a curious pear shaped cap of The sam
], material upon her head. She sat upon The foo
5, on deer-skin, and employed herself in twis
Us Ing reindeer sinews, which she rolled upo
y her cheek with the palm of hel hand, while
t, was skechng her. 1t was already dark, an
d. | was obliged to work by candlelight, but
Ut succeeded in catching the halfnsane, watcl
I