New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1857-05-09

with slant southwark. draining into the Muoaio.
until We reached the birchen ridge Of Suonhjsssi.
With ia beautiful irs rising here and there silert
and immoysbIs. Even the trees have no voices IN
the North, let the wind blow as 1t will. There 10
nothing TO be heard but the sharp whistle Of tho
dry snoy-the same dreary music which accomps-
pies the African simeon. The night was very
dark. and We began to grow exceedingly tired OF
sitting fat in our pulks. ! looked sharp for tos
Palsjock Ely, the high firftinged banks of which
remembered, for they denoted our approach to tho
Muonio bat it was long, long before We descended
from the marshes upon the winding road of snow
covered ice. In vain shifted my aching legs and
worked my benumbed hands, looking out ahead for
the embsuchure of the river Braisted and en-
couraged each other whenever We were near enough
10 hear BY the reminder that We had only one more
day with reindeer After long time spent in THE
way. the high banks aattened level SHOWS aud
woods succeeded and We sailed into the port OF
Pslsjoki.
The old Finnish lady curtsied very deeply as she
recognized us and FASTENED to cook our coffee and
reindeer, and to make Us good bed with shsets-
On our former visit the old lady and her sons had
watched us undress aud get into bed. but on thi
occasion three buxom daughters Of ages ranging
from sixteen to Twenty-Five appeared about the
time for retiring, and stationed themselves IN row
near the door where they watched us with silen
curiosity. As We had shown no hesitation In this
first case, We determined to be equally courageous
now. and commenced removing our garments with
great deliberatOn, allowing them every opportunity
of inspecting their fashion and the manner of wear
ing them The work thus proceeded in mutual
silence until We were nearly ready for repcse when
Bnisted BY pulling off stocking and displaying
muscular calf. suddenly alarmed the youngest,
who dsrted TO the door and rushed out. The sec
end caught the panic and followed, and the third
and oldest was therefore obliged to do likewise,
though with evident reluctance. | was greatly
amused at such unsophistcated display OF curi.
| osity. The perfect compOsurc OF the girls, ana
the steadiness with which they watched us, showed
| that they were quite unconscious Of having CON.
mitted any improperly.
This morning was clear and cold Our deer
had strayed so far into the woods that We did nos
get under way before the forenoon twilight com
menced We expected to find broken road down
the Muonio, but heavy snow had fallen yesterday
and the track was completely filed. Long Isaac
found so much difficulty in taking the lead, his deer
constantly boiling from the path, that Anton finally
relieved him, and by standing upright in the pulk
and humping the deer's tanks, succeeded in keep
ing up the animals spirits and forcing a way. lt
was slow work, however, and the sun, rolling his
whole disc above the horizon, announced midday
before We reached KyrkessuandO. AS We droye
ND to the little inn we were bosterously welcomed
by Hal. Herr Forstroms brown wolf-dog, who had
strayed thus far from home. Our deer were be-
ginning to give out, and we were very anxious To
reach Muonioyara in time for dinner, 80 we only
| waited long enough TO give the animals feed Of
| moss and procure some hot milk for ourselves.
The snow storm, which had moved over mar
row belt of country had not extended below this
place, and the road was consequently well broken.
We urged our deer into fast trot, and slid down
the icy floor of the Muono, past hills whose SHOWS
flashed scarlet and roseorange in the long spiendor
of sunset. Hunger and the fatigue which our jour
ney was producing at last, made us extremely SEN
sitye to the cold though it was not more than 20'
below zero. My blood became 50 chilled, that /
was apprehensve the extremties would freeze, and
feed to keep at bay the numbness which at
tackled them. At dusk we drove through Upper
MuonOniska, and our impotence kept the reindeers
so well in motion that before s O'Clock (although
long after dark, We were climbing the well-known
slope to Herr Forstr0m's house at Muonioyara.
Here we find the merchant, not yet departed to
the Lapp fair at Karessuando and Mr.. Wolley,
who welcomed US with the cordially of an old
friend. Our snug room at the carpenters was al Z
ready warmed and set in order and after our rem
deer drive of $50 miles through the widest parts OF
Lspland, we feel a home-like sense of happiness
and comfort in smoking our pipes before the fami-
liar iron stove.
The trip to KautokeinO embraces about all shsh
zee of Lapp life this Winter. The romance Of tho
tribe, as have already said, has totsly departed
with their conversion while their habits Of life,
scarcely improved in the least are sufficiently re-
pulsive TO prevent any closer experience than
have had, unless the gain were greater Mr.. Vol
lev who has been three years in Lapand, says that
the supersttons and picturesque traditions oil tao
people have almost wholly disappeared, and tho
coarse mysticism and rant which they have Gu
grated upon their imperfect Christianity does not
differ materially from the came excrescences IN
more civilized races. They have not even (the bet
ter for them it s true) any characteristic and pic
turesaue yices-but have become, certainly to their
own great advantage, pous, fanatca, moral, ig-
norant and commonplace people. | have described
them exactly az found them, and as they have