Mariposa Democrat., 1857-06-18

because they say the vine is capable OF with
standing greater degree Of cold without in
jury before than after being pruned; also that
the branches Of the previous years growth are
pretty sure to "k back" some, whether they
are pruned in the fall or not, and that it is bet
ter to let them do SO before the vine is pruned
than after. So much for theory.
In 1851 my vineyard consisted of eight rows
of equal length, and the vines all of one age
and of similar size. That year pruned one
of these rows in November, and the others in
February, and when the fruit was harvested
carefully weighed the yield of each row se-
parately. The fall-pruned row produced %
per cent. less than either Of the other rows
This result at the time looked very much like
an argument against fall pruning. However,
not deeming it quite conclusive, pruned two
rows the next November, the same one pre-
viously pruned in November, and another
At the next harvest the yield of these two
rows was quite eoral, but not superior to that
of any other two in the vineyard, in respect to
quality and quantity.
Since then have practiced pruning my
vines during any mild weather from the mid.
die of November to the middle of March, and
l feel safe in advising others to do the same.
Vines should never be pruned with dull
knife, nor when they are frozen, nor when
there is n reasonable prospect of sudden
change from mild to extreme cold weather.
On planting vine let but one branch grow
the first season. At the end of the season cut
this back to two or three buds, and let but
two branches grow the second season. At
the end of this season cut these branches
back to back to eight or ten buds each,
or to four or five feet in length; build
your trellis, and fasten these branches right
and left" along the lower rail of the trel-
lis. The third season let these base branch
es produce branch from every alternate bud,
and train them perpendcularly to the top of
the trellis, and about the first Of September,
stop them-pinch them off The trellis is now
filed with good bearing wood and the next
season-the fourth-the vine will produce its
first crop
After the first crop is taken from the vine
the only pruning necessary to prepare it for
another crop will be to cut back the lateral
branches issuing from the upright branches
to two buds, and when. they start the next
spring. but one of these, usually the nearest
the main branch, should be allowed to grow
The next year that portion Of the old spur ex-
tending beyond the base of the new branch
should be cut off smooth, and the new branch
cut back as before, to two buds. This
same process is to be continued from year to
year. 1t is well, however, to provide for an
entire renewal of the fruit-bearing branches
as often as once in three or four years. This
can be accomplished without the loss of crop
as follows:
Suppose there are main upright branches
to the vine, . of these may be renewed each
year, by allowing a new branch to grow from
their places, and at the next annual pruning
cut the old ones out; in this way the entire vine,
except the base, will be renewed in the course
Of three years. OF course it must be remem-
bered that the fruit is always produced on the
current years shoots, springing from wood of
the previous years growth.
Where vines are planted wide, say from ~
to 16 feet apart, and trained on upright trellis-
es--the very best mode of planting and train
ing when the grape is cultivated for the des-
sert-I have found the foregoing simple mode
of pruning well adapted to the vineyard or
field culture Of our native vines.
E. A. MCKAY,
NAPLES, N. Y, Jan. l. 1856.
For vineyard culture the vines may be set
closer together, and single stake set as each
vine takes the place of the trellis, three feet
apart, in rows. Six feet apart is the common
vineyard distance; an acre contains 1920
vines; an average crop of wine is about 200
gallons, and the demand for 1t is constantly
ahead of the supply. Good Catawba wine is
worth now more than it was when less than
ose-fourth the present quantity was produced
1t is estimated that there is now in the Ohio
valley over 1000 acres in vineyard, nearly
one-half in the immediate vicinity of Cincinna-
IT, Why should not Kentucky and Tennessee
go more extensively into this culture, for which
they contain so many hill sides and hill tops SO
admirably adaptedP
The following excellent article from the
Ohio Valley Farmer, contains much informa-
tion on this subject for the novice
Establishing a Vineyard-Position.-The
most favorable aspect for vineyard is on a
gradual slope, facing the southeast. A directly
southern or eastern exposure is not, however.
particularly Objectionable.
Preparing the Ground.-The ground should
be thoroughly trenched over, to the depth of
two feet or two and half feet, placing the
upper soil above.
In the process of trenching, care should all
the while be taken to see that permanent
way of escape is provided for any water that
may be likely to find its way to the bottom of
the trenches. Any stagnant water, or even