New-York daily tribune., 1857-04-22
Bayard Taylor in Northern Europe.
No. XVI.
LIFE IN LAPLAND.
Corre,poni,nce Of The y. Y. Tribune.
MInNIOIARA I,AnlAnd Ian


As we drove up to the red two-story house, on
arriving here last Saturday, short man with dark
Yhiskers and commercial air came forward 10
meet us. / accosted him in Swedish, asking him
whether the house Was al inn. He replied in the
negative, adding that the only inn WAS in Muono-
niska, On the Russian side mile or more distant.
| then asked for the residence Of Mr.. WOlley the
English naturalist, whose nome had been mentioned
to me by Prof Retzius and the botsnist Hartman.
He thereupOn called to some one across the court,
and presently appeared tall slender man dressed
in the universal gray suit which travelling English.
men wear. from the Equator TO the Pof-s. He
came up with extended hand. on hearing h;s own
language; q few words sufiieed for explanation.
and he devoted himself to our interests with the
cordiality of an old acquaintance. He lived with
the Swede, Herr Forstrom, who was the merchant
Of the place; but the wife Of tho latter had Just
been confined, and there room in his house.
Mr.. Wolley proposed at first to send to the inn in
MuoDioniska, and engage room, but aiterward
arranged with Norsk carpenter, who lives on the
bill above, to give quarters in his house so that
We might be near enough to take our meals to-
gether Nothing could have suited us better. We
took possession at once, and then descended the
hill to a dnner-I had ventured TO hint at our fam
ished conditioner capercale, cranberries, soft
bread, whipped cream, and glass Of genuine
Port.
Warmed and comforted by such luxurious fare,
climbed the hill to the carpenters house, in the
dreary Arctic twilight, in the most cheerful and
contented frame of mind. Was this. indeed, Lap
land Did we, indeed, stand already in the dark
heart of the polar Winter! Yes there was no
doubt Of it. The imagination could scarcely con-
ceive more desolate picture than that upon which
We gazed-the plain Of somber snow beyond which
the black huts of the village were family discern
ibe, the stunted woods and bleak hills which night
and the raw snow clouds had half obscured, and
yOnder ftr.clad figure gliding silently along beside
his reindeer. Yet, even here, where Man seems to
have settled out of pure spite against Nature,
comfort and hospitality and kindness. We entered
the carpenters house, lit our candles and pipes
and sat down to enjoy at ease the unusual feeling
Of shelter and Of home. The building was of
squared fir logs, with black mess stuffed in the
crcviccs, making it very warm and substantial.
Our room contained loom, two tables, two beda
with linen of voluptuOus sOftness and cleanness, an
iron stove (the first We have seen III Swedenl, and
tho usual washing apparatus, beside piece of car
pet on the floor. What more could any man de-
sire! The carpenter, Herr Knoblock, speaks
some German; hi. son, Ludwig, Mr.. Wolleys SER
want also looks after our needs; and the daughter
fair, blooming girl of about nnrteen, brings US
coffee before We are out of bed and keeps our fire
in order. Why Lspland is very bars in com
parison with what had expected.
Mr. Woey proposed to us another luxury in
the shape Of vapor-bath, as Herr Forstroin had
one Of those bathing houses which universal in
Finland. II was q litto wooden building without
windows. A Finnish scrvant-gir who lad been
for some time engaged in getting it in readiness,
opened the door for US. The interior was very hot
and moist, like an Oriental bathing-hal. In the
center was pile of hot stones. covered with birch
boughs the leaves of which gave ont an agreeable
smell and large tub Of water. The floor was
strewn with straw, and under the roof was plat
form extending across one end Of the building
This was covered with soft hay and reached by
means of a ladder, for the purpose Of getting the
full effect of the steam. Some stools aud bench
for our clothes completed the arrangements.
There was also in one corner n pitcher of water,
standing in little heap Of snow to keep 1t cool.
The servant girl came in after US, and Mr.. W.
quietly proceeded TO udress, informing US that the
girl was bathing master, and would do the usual
scrubbing and shampoong This it seems, is tho
general practice in Finland and is but another ex-
- IL. ,,St H., Il
in this part of the world. The poorer families 60
into their bsthing-roo together-iather, mother,
and childrcn-and take turns in polishing each
Others backs. 1t would have been ridiculous to
have shown any hesitation under tho circumstances
in fact, an ndignity to the honest, simple
hearted vrtuous girl--and so we deliberately un-
dressed also. When at last We stood, like first
parents in Paradise, naked and not ashamed,
she handed us punches of birch-twigs with the
leaves on, the use Of which was suggested by the
leaf Of sculpture. We mounted to the platform
and lay down upon our backs, whereupon she in
creased the temperature by throwing water upon
the hot stones until the heat rather oppressive
and We began tD sweat profusely. She then took
up bunch of brch.twigs which had been dipped
in hot water, and switched us smartly from head
" foot When wo had become thoroughly par
boiled and lax. We descended to the aoor, seated
ourselves upon the stools, and were scrubbed with
soap as thoroughly as propriety permitted. The
girl was an admirable bather the result Of long
practice in the business. She finished by pouring
hot water over US, and then drying us with warm
towels. The Firms frequently 90 out and roll in