New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1857-09-18
Dsyard Taylor In Northern Europe.
No. XXX.
VOYAGE UP THE COAST OF NORWAY.

STEAMER "NORDKAP," among the
Lopoden Islands, July 81, 1857
Our frat view Of Drontheim (or Troadhjsm. as it
aAould properly be written, was from the top Of
Ne hill behind the TO W. at the termination Of six
miles Of execrable road, and perhaps the relief
spriDeing from that circumstance heightened the
agreeable impression which the scene made upon
cur minds. Below US, at the bottom Of a crescent
shaped bay, lay Drontheim-a mass Of dark red yell
low and brown buildings, with the gray cathedral
in the rear. The rich wellcutivated valley of the
Md stretched behind it, on our rgut past the Lier-
foss, whore column Of foam was visible three miles
away, until the hills, rising more high and bleak
behind each other, completely enclosed it. The
rOck- fortress Of MunkhOlm in front of the city,
broke the smooth surface Of the ford whose further
shores, dim with passing showers, swept away to
the north east hiding the termination Of this great
sea-arm, which is some fifty mics distant. The
panorama was certainly on grand scale, and pre-
sented very diversified and picturesque features,
bat l can by no means agree with Dr. Clarke who
compares it to the Bay Of Naples. Not only the
rich colors of the Mediterranean are wanting, but
those harmonic sweeps and curves of the Italian
shores and hills have nothing in common with these
rude, ragged, weather beaten, defiant forms.
Descending the hill between rows of neat coun-
try-houses we passed a diminutive fertilization,
and entered the city. The streets are remarkably
wide and roughly paved, crossing each other at
right angles, with Philadelphia regularity The
houses are ali two stories high, and raised upon
ample foundations 90 that the doors are approached
by flights of steps-probably on account of the deep
spOws during the Winter. They are almost exclu
sively Of wood solid logs covered with neat clap
boards but a recent law forbds the erection of any
more wooden houses, and in the course of time the
town, ike Chrstiania Will lose all that peculiar aud
characteristic in its architecture cleaner place can
scarcely be found, and also noticed, what is quite
rare in the North, large square fountains, wells,
at the intersection Of all the principal streets. The
impression which Drontheim makes upon the
stranger is therefore cheerful and genial one.
Small and unpretendiDg as it is, it is full Of pic
lures; the dark.blue Fiord closes the vista of half
its streets; hills of gray rock draped with the
greenest turf, overlook it on either side and the
beautiful valley of the Md, one Of the lovelest
nooks Of Norway, lies in its rear.
We drove to the Hotel de Belle Vue, one of the
two little caravanserais of which the town bOasts,
and were fortunate in securing the two vacant
rooms. The hotel business in Norway is far b..
hind that Of any other country except in regard to
charges, wherein it is far in advance Considering
what one gets for his money, this is the most ey
pensve country in the world, for foreigners Elk.
cept where the rates are fixed by law, as in post
ing the natives pay much Lees; and here is an in
stance of dOuble-dealing which does not harmonic
with the renowned honesty of the Norwegans. At
the Belle Vue, we were furnished with three very
meager meals day, at the rate Of two dollars and
half The attendance was performed by two boys
Of fourteen fifteen, whose services, as may be
supposed, were quite inadequate to the wants of
near twenty persons. The whole business of the
establishment devOlved on these two fellows, the
landlady, though goOd-humOred and corpulent, as
was meet, knowing nothing about the business, and,
on the whole, it was wonder that matters were not
worse. 1t is singular that in q pastoral country
like this, one gets nothing but rancid butter, and
generally sour cream, where both should be of the
finest quality. Nature is sparing Of her gifts, to be
sure; but what she does furnish is of the best it
comes from her hand. OF course, one does not look
for much culinary skill, and is therefore not dsap
pointed, but the dairy is the primitive domestic art
Of all races, and it is rather surprising to find it in
% backward state. However, / shall not growl
now, 40 did not in Drontheim, for there was a
smart boy in the Post Office, who had slowed away
in one corner and kept safely for me quantity of
letters and newspapers and the two days we spent
there we're mostly devoted to transatlantic interests.
My friend, who had no such interests, applied
himself to seeing the place, which he accomplished,
with praiseworthy industry, in one day. lie walked
out to the falls of the Md three miles up the valley,
and was charmed with them. He then entered the
venerable Cathedral where he had the satisfaction
of seeing Protestant clergyman perform high
mass in scarlet surplice, with gold cross on his
back. The State Church of Norway, which, like
that Of Sweden, is Lutheran of very antiquated
type, not only preserves this ritual, but also the
form Of confession Gin general way, believe, and
without reference to particular sins, aud of abso-
hilton. OF course, it is violently dogmatc and illib
eral and there is little vital religious activity in the
whole country. Until within very few years, no
other sects were tolerated, and even yet there is
simply freedom of conscience, but not equal polti-
cal rights, for those of other denominations. This
concession has perhaps saved the Church from be-
coming venerable fossil yet one still fnds per
sons who regret that il should have been made, not
knowing that all Truth, to retain its temper, must
be whetsed against an opposing blade. According
10 the new Constitution of Norway, the King must
be crowned in the Cathedral Of Dronthem. Berna-
dotte received the proper conservation, but Oscar,