Bradford reporter. [volume] (Towanda, Pa.) 1844-1884, 1857-06-11

been some time objecting and begging me to
return, and now positively refused to 90 any
further, and in fact, turned about himself. |
was anxious to proceed, but [ did not like
wading up to my knees in the water, nor did
L feel very resolute to go where | might ex-
pose myself to danger, as he seemed to init
mate.
While L was hesitating another of my men
came running up to the ravine and shortly af
ter him Paul and the chief, breathIess with
haste, and crying in low gutterals, +" FL Arab!
ell Arab !" The Arabs the Arabs This
was enough for me- l had heard so much of
el Arab that had become nervous. 1t. was
like the cry of Delah in the ears of the sleep
ing Samson The Philistiues be upon thee. -
AT the other end of the ravine was an encamp-
ment of the ell Alouns and the sheik having
due regard to my communication about money
matters, had Stunned this entrance to avoid
bringing me the horde of tribute gatherers
for participation in the spoIs Without
any disposition to explore farther, | turned to-
wards the city and it is now that began to
feel the powerful and indelible impression that
must be produced on entering through this
mountainous passage, the excavatcd city of
Petra
For about two miles it lies between high
and precpitous ranges of rocks, from five hun
dred to thousand feet in height, standing as
if torn asunder by some great convulsion. and
barely wide enough for two horsemen to pass
abreast. A swelling stream rushes between
them the SUBMITS are wild and broken in
some places Overhangng the opposite sides,
casting the darkness of night upon the narrow
defile, then receding and forming an opening
above through which strong ray of light is
thrown down, and illuminates with the blaze
of day the frightful chasln below.
Wild fig trees, Oleanders and ivy were grow
ing out of the rocky sides of cliffs hundreds of
feet above our heads the eagle was scream
ing above us all along were the open doors
of tombs, forming the great Metropolis of the
city and at the extreme end was large open
space, with powerful body of light thrown
down upon it, and exhibiting, in one full view
the facade of a beautiful temple hewn out of
the rock, with rows of Corinthian columns and
ornaments standing out fresh and clear as if
but yesterday from the hands of the sculptor.
Though coming directly from the banks of the
Nile, where the preservation of the temples
eXctes the admiration and astonshment of
Of every traveller, we were reused and excited
dition Of the temple at Petra
Even in coming upon it as we did, at dis
advantage, | remember that Paul, who was
passionate admirer Of the arts, when he first
obtained glimpse of it, invountary cried
out, and moving on to the front with yivac-
ty | never saw him exhibit before or after
wards, clapped his hands and shouted in ecS-
stacy. TO the last day of our being together
lie was in the habit of referring to his extra
ordinary fit OF enthusiasm when he first came
upon that temple and [ can well imagine
that, entering by the narrow defle, with the
feelings reused by its extraordinary aud roman
tic wildness and beauty, the first view of that
superb facade must prove an effect, which
could never pass away. Even now that have
returned to the pursuits and thought-engross-
ing incidents of life in the busiest city in the
world, often in situations as widely different
as night from darkness, / see before me the
facade of that temple Neither the Coliseum
at Rome, grand and interesting as it is, nor
the ruins of the Acropolis at Athens, nor the
Pyramids, nor the mighty temples of the Nile,
are so often present to my memory
Leaving the temple and the open area on
which it fronts and following the stream, We
entered another defile much broader than the
first, on each side of which were ranges of
tombS with sculptured doors and columns
and on the bottom Of the mountains, hewn ont
of the solid rocks, is large theatre, circular
in form, the pillars in front falling, and con
tanning thirty-three rows Of seats capable of
containing more than three thousand persons
Above the corridor was range of doors open
ing to chambers in the rock, the seats of the
,yo,l+b;ost boh G
and not like row of private boxes in mod
ern theatre.
The whole theatre is at this day in such a
state of preservation that if the tenants of the
tombs could once more rise into life they might
take the, places on its seats and listen to the
defamation of their favorite prayer. To me
the stiffness of a ruined city is nowhere so i'm
pressive as when sitting on the steps of its
theatre, once thronged with the gay and plea
sure-seeking, now given up to solitude and
desolaton. Day after day these seats have
| ON filled, and the new sileut rocks had echo
ed to the applauding shouts of thousands, and
little could an ancient Edomite imagine that a
stranger from then unknown would one day
lie wandering among the ruins of the proud
and wonderful city, meditating upon the fate
of race that has for ages passed away
Where are ye, inhabitants of this desolate day?
you who once sat on the seats of this theatre
the young, the hlgh-born, the beautiful and
the brave-who once rejoiced in your riches
and power, and lived as if there was no grave?
where are ye now Even the very tombs
whose open doors are stretched away in long
ranges before the eyes of the wandering ira
veler, cannot reveal the mystery of your doom,
YOUR dry bones are gone the robbers have in
vaded your graves, and your ashes have been
swept away to make room for the wandering
Arab of the desert
But we need not stop at the days when a
gay population crowded this theatre In ear
liest periods of recorded time, long before this
theatre was built, and long before the tragic