Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1857-09-18
THE sELF-IMPRIsONED TOURIST.
OF TRAVELLER on THE RHINE.

part OF England who was making the tour Of
the continent Of Europe, wandered up the river
Rhine TO the most interesting portion Of that
celebrated river, which is the few miles between
st. Goar and Bacharach. These places are
midway between the important towns of Cob
lentE, at the mouth of the Moselle, and Bingen.
at the mouth of the Maize. This section of the
Rhine winds between high and jagged basaltic
mountains, which pressing together, form the
narrow and deep channel of the river All
along these mountain shores scattered thickly
on the narrow eauseway, or hanging on its
rocky sides, are the ruins of ancient castles or
towers and towns which had their origin earlier
than the earliest records of European history
Ihls locality IS q vine growing and wine making
country. Some of the most delicious wines used
In the higher circles of European society, are
made from the grapes grown these hills and
mountain sides picturesque sight in the
season OF vegetation, are the fields and slopes of
the vine groves spread over their sunny sides
Our traveller was without companions wander
Ing, observing, and studying the historic les
Sons, which the antiquities and customs of the
people opened TO him. He rambled among the
hamlets and visited the people in their employ
meDts. He wandered on the mountains and
took pleasure in the infinite variety oflandscape
which they presented In the cool of the morn
ing, he wOGld stroll along the graded carriage
way from St. GOar to Oberwesel, from 0ber-
wesei to Baehararch, which followed the course
OF the river, and part of the way dug out of the
mountain side. Over this carriage way hung
threatening projecting ledges, which have held
Tor ages past the stern threatening finger to
every traveller that dared to pass under their
frouns
On one of the finest summer days, when the
atmosphere was clear. mild and balmy and
when ripening fruits and flowers scattered their
oJOrs everywhere-he wandered away alone
upon one of the more distant hills, to visit the
ruins of an old castle, which by its strange
somore look, had long invited him to q more
familiar acquaintance. 1t was one of those
ruins which had been utterly despoiled and
abandoned 10 the habitstions of bats, owls, and
lizards; its silence being rarely disturbed by
the footsteps of the traveller
Our tourist pursued the main road for dis
lance, meeting with peasants on their way to
their daily toll followed by barefooted laughing
boys and girls. He turned into less freauented
paths, roads only made for the accommodation
OF the grape culturalists upon the mountain
SIDE lnquIrlng the way we'll as he could of
the laborers in the vineyards and Of the farms.
he makes his way towards the ruins which
stand on the mountain side as the most promi-
nent object Of observation. Into bye-paths he
turns, which seem to lead in the direction; and
less and less distinct becomes the path as he
clambered on. He lifts himself up by the roots
and trunks of the trees, resting himself on a
foot-hold Of q rock, until at length he gains the
plateau on which the castle stands There are
no guides here, for a few kreutzers to show
him through the ruins. This is not fayorte
resort OF visitors, though the ruins are some
times visited, for the path through the ancient
porteullls Is q trodden One and all over the in
terror are marks Of footprints and hand prints
and pencil and knife drawings and sculpture
II those who occasionally come here 10 muie on
the solitude of those ruins, and in dreams with
the spirits OF the past. He enters into the
court. " hich is surrounded by walls that once
enclosed splendid halls-but now yawn with
rough open spaces from which have fallen the
doors and windows. COlonnades are broken off.
cornIces have fallen down, and balustrades hang
tnrestenlngiy over immense preeipiees below.
Brambles and briars have woven networks
across the entrances to the halls and vaults.
moss has grown upon the facades; vines have
tralled up the broken columns and over the
shattered balconies; and grass grows upon the
turrets Towers have tumbled down in heaps
OF ruins at their feet, which are covered with
earth, giving root to vines and nettles The
winds howl through spaces in the walls i'm
which were once doors and windows; and the
sun pours its rays upon the head of the traveller
In halls without roofs. Here are flights of stairs
adherlng to the walls with no chambers above
them, and chambers TO which no stairs afford an
entrance. A circular flight leads through a
dark winding passage-foot-steps have worn
the stone To an insecure foothOld-winding up
70 an elevation surmOunted by erumbling rocks,
1ntermlngled with earth, in which grass and
flowers have been planted and nurtured by
NH-o oiOAOs III FduIIS UeIOW tie work OF
ruin has progressed more slowly; and there are
apartments and cells here nearly as complete
as when last emptied of their wine stores
de passes outside Of the main wall, through
aPort-hole, from the edge of which fragment
after fragment has crumbled until M form or
colnellness Is loft to the opening, which is now
simply hole through the wall" There he
stands upon q narrow promenade. From this
point be oyerlOoks the Rhine, and the little
towns that nestled down by the water side. and
castles that stand on rival elevatiOns-stern
competitors for pre-eminence. Every object in
range Of the sight is presented with a distinct
yiridness. From this position he discovers the
la0orers In the vineyards on the adjoining hill
sides, women Carrying their fruit in baskets
upon their heads, the people moving about in
the street., Of the villages, and all the activities
OF lie incident 10 that rural district Below.
the steamers ply their way against the current,
rolling up the sparkling waters, leaving a path
OF silVery foam behind. Every sound reyer-
bsrates with q clear dstinctness
Then he desce nded To the hitherto unexplored
recesses OF the subterranean vaults and passa-
ges under the ruins. The castle stood upon the
side OF the mountain; tier of its underground
rooms were lighted and ventilated by apertures
and windows from its elevated sides Down
many q winding staircase, and through arched
passages and vaults partly in ruins be explored
his way-sOmetimes hesitating and shuddering
lest he should be lost in an underground
labyrinth Yet his curiosity and interest in
these lighted repositories Of oIden mysteries
led him on, and into caves opening back into
the bowels o. the earth, the end Of which was
only darkness unto which he could not pene-
trate. Below these were deeper vaults still,
entered by descending spiral stairways, to
which impenetrable darkness was a barrier.
lnto one Of these rooms, under the main
s1wsr, with opening on two sides, he entered.
There was but one way Of access to this cell.
and tha. was through the opening Of a stone
door which was yet hanging upon it's rusty
hinges, thrown back against the wall There Il
had probably stood on its massive hinges for
generations without being closed. This door
was made Of large fag-stone, and bevelled to
ht the opening, 30 that when it closed it formed
the continuation Of n perfect wall-the stone
easement 10 the unfortunate victim enclosed
within. Ii had in former times unquestiOnably
been used As prisoners cell, and perhaps had
been the Il h. 10. L.