New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1857-04-14


Near PSckila We passed fine old church Of red
brick. " th very handsome belfry At Mems NO
changed horses in ten inmates and FASTENED 90 Up
the frozen Torneaa to Mstarengi. where we should
reach the Arctic Circle. The hills rose higher,
with fine sweeping outlines, and the river was stu
half a mile broad-a plain Of solid snow with the
track marked cut BY bushes. We kept a sharp
lookout for the mountain Of Ayasaxa, one of tho
stations Of Celsius, Msupertius snd the French
Acsdemicans. who came here in 1876 to make OBJ.
seryAtious determining the exact form Of the earth
Through this mountain, il is said, the Arctic Circle
passes. though our maps were neither sufficiently
minute nor correct 70 determine the point. We
took il for granted, however. Ms mile one Nay OF
the other could make but little difference. and as
Matsrenei lies due west Of AyasaSa. across tho
river, We decided TO stop there and take dinner on
the Arctic Circle.
The increase Of villages on both banks, with the
appearance ola large church. denoted our approach
Ia Matarengi. and we saw at once that the tan.
gently rounded, isolated Hill opposite nov blazing
with golden snow, could be none other than Ava
saxa Here We were, at last, entering the Arctic
zone in the dead of winter-the realization Of
dream which had often flashed across my mind.
when louneing under the tropical palms, 40 natural
is il for one extreme TO suggest the opposite took
our bearings with a cCmpass-ring as We drove Tor
ward. and as the summit Of AyasaNa bore due east
We both gave shout which startled our postiiios
and notably quickencd the gait Of our horses. III
was Impossible to toss our caps, for they were not
only tied upon our heads, but frozen fast u our
boards 80 here we arr at last, in the true demu-
ions of Winter. mild ruler he has been to us.
thus far, but fear he viii prove despot before
We have done with him.
Soon aiterwarl, We drove into the inn at Mata-
rengi which was full of country people, who bad
Gene to attend church. The landlord. sallow.
water-cyed Finn. who knew few words ID
Swedish, gave us room in an adjoining house, and
furnished dinner of boiled FISH and barley mush.
to which We added bottle labeled DRY Ma
dcira brought from liaparanda for the occasion.
AT q shop adjoining. Braisted found ser'iceab'e
pine. so that nothing was wanting to complete our
Jubilee. We swallowed the memory of all who were
dear to us, in the dubious beverage. nangurated
our Arctic pipe, which We propose to take home
as souvenir of the place, and set forward IN tho
most CHEEKY Mood.
Our road now crossed the river and kept up tho
Russian side TO place with the charming name Of
Torakankorwa. The afternoon twilight was even
more wonderful than that Of the forenoon. Theirs
were broad bands of purple, pure crimson and IN
tense yellow all flsng together into fiery orange at
the south, while the north became a semiyault OF
pink, then lilac and then the softest yielet The
4 ratio tod i'm N y ID
coors. which did not fade, as in the South but
stayed, ard stayed, as if God wished to compensate
by tbs twilight glory for the loss of the day Moth
ing in Italy, nothing i'll the Tropics, equals the mag
nifcence of these Polar skies The twilight gave
place to moonlight scarcely less brilliant Our
road was hardly broken leading through deepsnow.
sometimes on the river, sometimes through close
little glens, hedged in with frs dropping with snow
--faiiy Artic .solitudes white, silent and mys-
ferrous.
We reached here at o'clock. The place is
wholly Finnish and the landlord, who does not I'M
dersand WORD of Swedish, endeayored to make
us 90 on to the next station. We pointed to tho
beds and quietly carried in our baggage. | made
the usual signs for eating, which speedily pro-
cured us pail of sour milk bread and butter. and
two immense tin drinking horns of sweet milk. Ths
people seem o little afraid Of u.s. and keep away.
Our postlllion a silly fellow, who could not I'M
derstand whether bis money was correct. In the
course of our stenogaphic conversation, learned
that scar " signifies two. When / gave him his
drink-moncy he said "ketOr :" and on going out
the door hureae 80 that have at least dis
covered the Finnish for thank you !" and. good
bye" This, however, won't suffice to order horses
at 6 o'clock tomorrow morning. We are likewise
in state Of delightful uncertainty as TO our future
progress, but this very uncertainty gives zest to
our situation and it would be difficult to find two
jollicr men with frozen noses.
The mercury has risen to zero with heavy sky
and damp air. threatening snow. IL We can but get
to Muonioniska before the storm comes, BIT.
1-------,r-l-----7