Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1857-05-30
MISC E LA N Y.
BAYARD TAYLOR IN NORTH
ERN EUROPE.
Kautokcino--A Day Without A Sum--Thc
Lnpps.


kAuToKElNo, Norwegian Laplond,
While in Dresden, my friend Ziegler had
transferred 10 me letter Of introduction from
Herr Berger, a merchant of IIammerfest, to his
house-keeper in Kautokeino. Such a transfer
might be considered grea: st.ech of eiiqneite
iL those enlightened regions of the world where
hospitality requires certificates of character
but, in bengbted country like Lapland, there
was no danger of very fine distinctions being
drawn, and Ziegler judged that the house which
was TO have been placed at his disposal had he
made the journey, would as readily open its
doors to me. Al Muonioyara, learned that
Berger himself was now in Kautokeino, so that
| needed only to present him with his own let
ter. We arrived so late, however, that | di-
reced Long Isaac 10 take us to the inn until
morning. He seemed reluctant 10 10 this, and
| could not fahom the reason of his hesitation
until had entered the hovel TO which we were
conducted. A single room, filled with smoke
from fire of damp birch sticks. was crammed
with Lapps of all sizes, and both sexes. There
was scarcely room TO spread deerskn on the
floor, while The smell exhaled from their grea-
sy garments and their unwashed bodies was
absolutely sitting. have travelled too much
to be particularly nice in my choice of lodgings,
but in this instance instantly retreated, de-
ternned 10 lie on The snow, under my over
turned pnlk. rather than pass the night among
such bedfellows.
We drove on for short distance, and drew
up before large, substantial log house, which
Long Isaac informed me was the residence of
the Ldndsmann, or magistrate of the district. t.
knocked at The door, and inquired of the Nor
wegian seryanl-giIl who opened it where Herr
Berger lived. Presently appeared stout rnd-
dy genteman--no less than Herr Berger him
selt-who addressed me in fluent English. A
few words suficed to explain everything, and
in ten minutes our effects were deposited in the
guests room of the Landsmann's s house, and
ourselves, stripped of our Polar hides, seated
on sofa, IN warm. carpeted room, with a
bonntiful supper-table before us. Blessed be
civilization was my inward ejacuation.--
Blessed be that yearning for comfort in Man,
which has led 10 the invitation of beds, of sofas
and easy chairs, which has suggested cleanliness
OF body and of habitaiOn and which has de-
veloped the noble art of cooking The dreary
and perilous wastes over which we had passed
were forgotten. With hearts warmed in both
senses, and stomachs which reacted gratefully
upon our hearts, we sank that night into q pa
radse of snowy linen, which sent conscious
ness of pleasure even into the oblivion of sleep.
The Landsmann, Herr Lie, tall, handsome
man of 90, is native of Altengaard, and speaks
tolerabe English. With him and Herr Ber-
ger, we found athird person, theological stu
dent, stationed at Kautokeino 10 learn the Lapp
tongue. Pastor Hvoslef the clergyman, is the
only other Norwegian resident. The village,
separated from The Northern Ocean by the bar
rem, uninhablled ranges of the Kiolean Noun
tains, and from the Finnish settlements on the
Muonio by the swampy table-lands we had trav.
ersed, is one of the widest and most forlorn
places in all Lapland. Occupying, as it does,
the center of large district over which the
Lapps range with their reindeer herds during
the Summer, it is nevertheless place of some
importance, both for trade and for the educa-
tion, organization and proper control Of the bare
iy reclaimed inhabitants. A church was first
built here by Charles XII. Of Sweden in 1860,
although, in the course of subsequent boundary
adjustments The district was made over To Nor
way. Half century afierward, some families