New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1857-11-11
Bsyard Taylor in Northern Europe
No. XXXVL
ATRIP TO THE vORNG-FOSS.


Conespondssse Of The N. 2. fhbune 1919
VessEvAHGEN, Norway, Aug. 20, 1857.
After waiting only FIVE hours, We Obtained three
horses and drove away from Bergen. IL was SD
perb afternoon, spotlessy blue overhead viii stn
blue water below and hills Of dark, vevety verdure
throbbing and sparkling in the sunshine and the
breeses from of the ford. We sped past the long
line Of suburban gardens, through the linden ave-
nues, which somehow or other suggested 70 me the
days Of the Hsaieatic League, past IiVoh, the DO
boken of Bergen and, on the mmnis OF the hhi
beyond, stopped to take parting look at the beau
tful city. She sat at the foot Of her guardian
mountain, across the lake, her white towers and
red roof, lying in sharp relief against the purple
background Of the Islands which protect her from
the sea. In Color form and atmospheric effect, the
picture was perfect. Norway is particularly fortu
nate in the position and surroundings Of her three
chief cities Bergen beans away the PALM truly;
but either Of them has few rivals in Europe.
Our road led, at first, over well-cultivsted hills,
dotted with comfortable farm.houses-a rolling,
BROKEN country, inelosed By rugged ard sterile
groups Of hills. After some miles, We turned north
ward into MARROW valley, running parallel 70 the
coast line. The afternoon sun, shining over the
shoulder of the N ountan on our Left, illuminated,
with dazzling effect, the green pastures In the
bosom Of the valley, and the groves of twnklins
birch and somter fr on the opposite slopes. /
have never seen purer Ints in the sunshine-never
a softer II transparency in the shadows. The land
scape was ideal in its beauty, except the houses,
whose squalof and discomfort were real. Our first
station 10y Of the road on hill. A very friendly
old man promised to get us horses as soon as pos
sble, and bis wife ret before u the best fare the
house afrorded-milk, 0aten shingles, and bad
cheese. The house was dirty, and tho aspect Of
the family bed, viii :h occupied one nde of the ROOM
merely divided by boards into separate compart-
ments for the parents, children and servants, was
sufficient 10 Danish sleep. Notwithstanding the
poverty of tho place the old woman set good
value upon her choice prOvender. The horses were
soon forthcoming, and the man, whose apparent
kindness increased every moment, said to me:
Have not done well Is it not very well that
"bave brought your horses 30 sooni" sssented
cheerfuly, but be still repeated the same questions
and was stupid enough not to discover their mean
ing, until be added: II have done everything %
well that you ought to give me something for it.
The naive manner of this request made n seem
reasonable, AID gave him something accordingly
though little disappointed, for had congratulated
myself on finding at last q friendly and obligins
shios-,kafer (postmaster) in Norway.
Toward evening we reached q little village on the
shore of the Osterford. Here the road terminated,
and o water station Of eighteen miles in length lay
before US. The hords on the western coast OF
Norway are narrow, shut in by lofty and abrupt
mountains, and penetrate far into the hnd-fse
quently TO the distance Of hundred miles. Inc
general direction of the valleys is parallel to the
line of the cont intersectng the iords at nearly
right angle, so that they in connection with these
vatery defles, Divide the mountains into immense
irregular blocks, with very pse:ipitous sides, and
q summit table.hnd varying from two TO four
thous and feet above the Sea level For this reason,
there is no continuous road in all western Norway,
but alternate links of land and water-boats and
post. horses. The deepest fords reach very nearly
10 the spinal ridge Of the mountain region, and
Ian d road from Bergen to this line would be more
difficult to construct than any Of the gre,t high.
ways across the Alps. In proportion to her popu,
lstiou and means, Norwsy bss done moro for roads
than ally country in the world. Not only her main
thorougtfares, but even her by ways, give evidence
Of Astounding skill, industry aad perseverance,.
The Storthing has recently appropriated sum Of
SIS 900 for the improvement of roads, in addition
to the repairs which the farmers are obliged TO
make, and which constitute almost their only tax,
ts there is no assessment whatever upon landed
property. There seems q angular incongraity,
however in finding such an evidence OF the highest
civilization in connection with the semi barbara,
condition of the people. Generally, the improve
meDt of the means Of communication in country
is in the ratio of its social progress.
As We we're obliged 10 wait sntl morning before
commencing cur voyage, We set about procuring
supper and lodging. Some dirty beds in dirty
upper room constituted the latter, bat the former
was doubtful affair. The landlord, who persisted
in calling me " Dock, " msde forsging excursion
among the houses, and, after some time laid before
US sailed and smoked leg Of mutton, soma rancid
butter. bard oaten bread and pestileotiA cheese.
ate as matter of duty toward my body, bat my
companions were less conscientious. We deserve
90 credit for having risen early the next morning
ns,her was there any self denial in the fact Of our
being content with single cup Of coffee. The
boatmen, i've in number, who had been engaged the
evening before, took our carioes apar. and slowed
thu in the stern, while We three disposed our
selves YER, urea,ily in the narrow bow. As We
were about pushing Of, one Of the men stepped
upon stone and shouted il loud voice: "Csms
and help Ne, fairies "-whereat the Others laughed
hss,+lv TIA z;nd uas against U.s. bat l thou IN,