New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1857-11-11
NEW PUBLICALIC

TIE WESTMINSTER REVIEW, October Leonard Scott
The question Of the present fashion of women's
dress is discussed by The Westminster RerieD in
pithy article of the October number, Most Of the
statements Of the writer will ,uit the meridian Of
New.York, as well as of London. He is especially
savage on
THE BONNET OF 1857.
CHANGING at the fashions for 1857, what do see
On the he ad is something, the purpose OF which 1t
would be difficult to discover by reason structure
of tilk or straw, adorned with flowers, rbbon, and
lace, crowded on the angle OF the jaws ana ine nape
crown of the head. We have Mr.. SpuIgeon's authori
ty for the effect to the eye of the spectator in front
Being advised to preach against the prevang ioHy 10
heao he paused as he stood up on the PLATFORM
looked around him. and said, 81 have been requested
to rebuke the bonnets Of the day: but-uPon my word
Il don't see any," This Is the bonnet OF the sum ner
of lS57-pinped TO the head in some troublesome way
leaving the face exposed in q manner which one
need not be Turkish parent to disapprove, and caus
ing the hair TO be powdered with DUST ana inc neso
and fa:e to be alternately heated and chiiled by
believed when they declare that cases Of eye-dsease
of toothache, apo neuralgia pains of the head and
face are beyond all in their practice For
many months past English women and the ladies OF
America. where the extremes Of heat and cold are
gre a.er than with u.s. have been subectng
to the inconvenience Of goog out bMeheaded, with
the added annoyance Of an apparatus which ana
worries the back Of the neck. The broad bHmmed
hats are a piece of good sense in the midst Of mass
of folly. Punch, and other satrsts, may quiz the nat
az device for looking young; but The rdicue touches
only the elderly wearers, and leaves the hat unn-
peacaed. Some quizZical specimens, plumed ana De-
Iibboned, and TO turned up and twisted about az to
serve no more useful purposes than the DON
ret may be here and there but the simple Original
hat, with bIm which shades the eyes, and crown
which protects the head IL worthy Of ali appreciation,
oh, 10
As to older peopls-f they sensibly decline wearing
the bonnet which exposes their grey har 70 the very
crown, and feel that the hat is tao launty-why DO
they not recur to the Indigenous, serviceabe becom
ing unotiectonable English straw bonnet OF all times
MOI the fancy chip, or the open she-work Of straw,
filed up with ELK but the veritaoe straw fabric u.s.
can PUNISHABLE at peassreD which VIII outlas. al
occasion to wear il 10 coal scutte fashion, IKE boy
District Visitors that pious woman is always to be
looked for at the end Of long bonnet nor DO the null
peIs insist on all ladies going barehesded Inc straw
bonnet admits Of all enable notifications and tha.
of five yesrs ago. inclosng the fac, modesty, aud
covering the head comfortably, gratihtd good
taste then, while it satisfies SOUND reason now. Ia
stead of it, we daily old ladies in one OF two ex
trenes-either their Lark jaws are exposed by the dark
st,rgs Of souching hat their wrDkled faces aud
pray hair are encompassed with blonde aud arttcial
flowers, the trimming OF the little e1crescence caed
n bonnet in our day. One would think that no wo ma
g, Md fail to perceive that wreahs and garands are
youthful a6OInment, and that DO one should we at
fetal flowers who could not htcnely dress her hair
with natural ones yet We see dowagers with reses and
foliage custer ing around their cheeks at every turn
He 10 milder on
THE MANTLE.
The mantle is, perhaps, the best idea among the
fashions of the day, and now and then We see one
worn by a sensible woman, which fulf.s all reason
able condons but the majority Of them are 80 made
as to paIake ell the disadvantages Of the existing
gown Ii USED to be thought, and II viii be thought
a;u hat in
character and therefore its tasefulness, by being
fitted 10 the figure. A modern mantle which is con-
fined at the waist ard has sleeves inserted 10 tigh
arnhole, is certainly not verabe mantle, Whs'ever
else il NAV be; ard when 1t, in this Samme
Of 1857 cut down to mere band round the chest, e1
tending higher than the point Of the shoulder, and
turbirg Tito sleeved jacket beOw We have no more
say to it as respectable member oil tae man'ie
tribe Bat TO respectabity in the eyes OF taste, 1t
usually forieits al pretension by its parade OF orna
meLtaion. Its fripges and bugles. asd brsids, and
eimps and lsces and bsttons-its frlirgs, and quill
ings ard pufngs, and edgngs, and slashngs are too
for any garment Of the cloak order for
permap fashion, though this article Is perhaps the
least Objectionable Of the whole suit favored by
the caprice Of the day.
But he grows frantic at the extravaganza and
uglnes Of
THE MODERN GOWN.
The madness runs riot in the gown-tto the old
fashion ed word which is more distinctive than the
technical use of the term dress - The conscious
ne, Of the whole public enables 70 be orief this
head When we enter on the topic of the gowns CT
1857 every readers prophetic soul warns him Whist
,nm.dyersicr to expect on tight waists, bare sboU
ders ard arms cumbrous and encroaching skirts, aud
an apparatus for tneir manage ment wnieh is in every
vay obje cionsble. Tie cosDess, the elnmsness the
yy,ass the ,fr,ctation the Stiffness, the noiness
ne complete reversal OF the objects Ard attributes Of
d,..s in the dress" evening and IN ring, Of the
prefent fashion, seems to 10 generally admitted;
therefore We ,hal not , saH o. Oh ~. uss ,,s
,h:.e. The gown Of 1857 is made OF the most