Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1857-05-23
NJ | S c E L L A N Y.
BAYARD TAYLOR IN NORTH
ERN EUROPE.
LIFE IN LAPLAN Nd.

MuoNIovARA, Lapland, Jan. ID, 1857.
AS we drove up to the red two-story house,
on arriving here last Saturday, short man
with dark whskers and commercial air came
forward to meet us. IaccOsted him in Swedish,
asking him whether the house was an inn. lie
replied in the negative, adding that the only
inn was in Muonioniska, on the Russian side,
a mile or more distant. ! then asked for the
residence of Mr. Wolley, the English natural
ist, whose name had been mentioned 10 me by
Prof. Retzius and the boianist Hartman. He
thereupon called to some one across the court,
and presently appeared a tall, slender man
dressed in the universal gray suit which travel
ling Englishmen wear, from the Equator to the
Poles. He came up with extended hand on
hearing his own language few words suiliced
for explanation and he devoted himself to our
Interests M Th ss ss esTday @ y Of "a gd afp1aa
strom, who was the merchant of the place ;
but the wife Of the latter had just been confined,
and there was no room in his house. Mr. VOL
ly proposed at first to send TO the inn in Muon-
ioniska, and engage a room, but afterward ar
ranged with Norsk carpenter, who lives on
the hill above, to give us quarters in his house,
so that we might be near enough To take our
meals together. Nothing could have suited us
better. We took possession at once, and then
descended the hill 10 q dinner-I had ventured
to hint al our furnished conditioner cape ercai-
lie, cranberries, soft bread, whipped cream, and
glass Of genuine Port.
Warmed and comforted by such luxurious
fare, we climbed the hill to the carpenters
| in ha rctic t,uilinht n this
most cheerful and contented frame of mind
Was this, indeed, Lapland! Did we, indeed
stand already in the dark heart Of the polar
Winteri Yes; there was no doubt of it. The
Imagination could scarcely conceive a more des
olate picture than that upon which we gazed-
the plain of somber snow, beyond which thu
black huts Of the village were family discerni
BILE, the stunied woods and bleak hills, which
night and the raw snow-clouds had half obscur
ed, and yonder fur-clad figure gliding silentl.
along beside his reindeer. Yet even here
where Man seems TO have settled out of pure
spite against Nature, were comfort and hospi
talty and kindness. We entered the carpen
ter's house, lit our candles and pipes, and sa
down TO enjoy at ease the unusual feeling O
shelter and of home. The building was O
squared fir logs, with black moss stuffed in tn
crevices, making it very warm and substantial
Our room contained loom, two tables, tw
beds with linen of volnptuous softness and clean
ness, an iron stove (he first we have seen i
Sweden,) and the usual washing apparatus, be
. side piece of carpet on the floor. Wha
more could any man desire The carpenter
, Herr Knoblocls, speaks some German his sor
Ludwig, Mr. Wolley's servant, also looks afte
our needs; and the daughter, fair, bloomin
. girl of about nineteen, brings us coffee befor
we are out of bed, and keeps our fire in order
Why, Lapland is very Sybaris in compariso
with what had expected.
Mr. Wolley proposed to US another luxury
in the shape Of vapor-bath, as Herr Forstrol
had one of those bathing houses which are VI
iversal in Finland. 1t was a little woode
building without windows A Finnish serval
girl, who had been FOR some time engaged
getting il in readiness, opened the door for u
The interior was very hot and moist, like a
3 Oriental baihing-hall. In the center was p
: of hot stones, covered with birch boughs, ii
e leaves of which gave out an agreeable smell
/, and large tub of water. The floor wi
. eiOWh WIN STRAW, anu uhuoI tho ioo' wac
o platform extending across one end of the bull
\ ing. This was covered with soft hay, ar
It reached by means of ladder, for the purpo
'' of getting the full effect of the steam. Son
. stools and bench for our clothes complete
-. the arrangements. There was also in one co
ner pitcher of water, standing in little he;
l. of snow, to keep it cool.
!; 3 The seryant-girl came in after US, and
w. quietly proceeded to undress, informing
'' that the girl was bathing-master, and would
% the usual scrubbing and shampooing. This,
seems, is the general practice in Finland, al
. is but another example of the unembarrass
re habits of the people in this part of the worl
: !. The poorer families 60 into their baihing-roor
'e togelher-father, mother, and children-a
take turns in polishing each others backs.