Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1857-05-19
FASHIONS FOR MAY.
From LIE Folletl


Of checked tafetas in two light shades separa-
ted by fine threads Of satin; these az we'll as
the founced chine taffetas, and spring mores
with three or four founces will be the decided
fayOrites of the present season. Poplns, also,
either plain, jaspees, or chimes, will be very
fashionable; blue, light green, pink and various
shades Of gray, being the principal colors now
worn. Although there has lately been a cru
sade against basques, they are still triumph
ant; they are worn either short or deep, but
more generally the latter. They are variously
trimned-ruches plaitings gauffered ribbons,
and pasSementeries are all much used. Dresses
without basques, however, are more and more
seen in evening toilet. The body is frequently
made pointed on the hips, as well as before and
behind; and the double skirt is trimmed with
pink ruches, or with one or two rows Of ribbon,
plated q la vieille The same trimming is also
placed on the high body, or round the berthe,
which !. slightly pointed before and behind.
When the body is with basques, the same plait-
ins Is arranged en- bretelles reaching to the
waist behind. and united by strap at front,
having the appearance Of square-cut body.
SOme double skirts are ornamented by ruches.
OF somo other fancy trimmings, placed down the
same; IN which case they are finished by a sim
PIE hem only. They have one advantage over
h9unces, In that they employ less material. A
wide fringe forms very elegant trimming; it is
placed exclusively on the upper skirt.
In no part of the toilette is there greater va
-,
GreTe and Juive shapes are still worn; others
are composed Of three puffs, or of two with a
trlll below. A more dressy sleeve is arranged
In Hat plaits nearly from the armhole to the
elbow sometimes a row Of buttons is placed on
each plat, or one button only at the termina-
ton Of the plait- Below the elbow the sleeve
forms pagoda, cut up in front Of the arm,
lined with white silk, and trimmed round the
inside edge with fat plated white ribbon
With respect TO mantles there is some indeci-
sion between the large and small the latter,
however, appears more suitable for summer
wear.
Etolles Of blonde, guipure, or black lace, are
very frequently placed on the crowns of bon
nets Falls Of lace or tulle, the color of the
bonnet are more than ever worn, as are also
those OF white tulle.
In one Of our most fashionable houses we
have just seen some very elegant toilettes
One was a dress Of China rose tafFetas in
large checks, and in the centre of each q bou-
Huet Of light brown and white chine. The
body was not quite high, showing guimpe en-
tirely composed of bOuillonnes of tulle, and
was trimmed round the top with ribbon half
punk and half light brown, plated n la yieille
Inc sleeves very open, with jockeys; the under
sleeves, bOuillOnneS of tulle, covered by check
work of ribbon to match that round the top of
the body.
We also very much admired an English green
tafetas dress with two skirts, the upper one
OI green.
edged on each side by narrow ruche of black
laoe. The light body was without basaues.
bottomed at front, and ornamented by a Ra-
phael berthe, formed Of q band of myrtle green.
edged TO match that on the skirt. The BODY
was trimmed by brandebOurgs of black lace
ruches both IN the front and on the back. With
tins was 70 be worn black tafetas shawl cOy-
cred with embroidery IL narrow braid and sur
rounded oy broad black lace and crinoline
bonnet, trimmed with wreath Of feathers
shaded from bright green to myrtle green.
Among the evening dresses we very much ad-
mlred the two following:
Ihe hrst was dress Of Nakara velvet with
very low body, the drapery being held on each
shoulder by nOeuds and pendants formed of
diamonds. The coiffure was composed of large
bsndeaux taken very low behind, surmoupted
by wreath OF oak leaves; full at the sides and
back, and quite narrow across the front of the
mead where 1t was fastened by diamond star
4he other was dress Of maize cOlored rape
the SKIRT entirely covered with bouillonnes
sprlnkled with small bows Of white ribbon,
over TINS was unique Of point d dAlencon
forming basque 70 the low body The berthe
was open very wide en- ceur, and laced together
0y rows OF small diamonds separated by bouil-
l9nnes OF maize Grape. The sleeves were very
wide and hanging, caught up by agrafes of dia-
monds superb wreath Of corn ears and lilies
Uf the valley, also of diamonds formed the
head dress, being finished On one side by
h1n1sOme weter-llly.
Heavy bonnets can no longer be worn, and
vet thus uncertain weather makes one almost
afraid TO enter on too great a change, 30 that
our m1dlstes have to exert their ingenuity in
the mixture OF materials in order to combine
elegance with comfort in the new spring bon
nots We have selected some of the prettiest
Tor description.
white tafetas bonnet, a biais Of green crane
at the edge, and third without ruches, round
ehe crown On one side Of the front bunch of
email white feathers, the ends tinted with a
thousand colOrs. Blonde cap and white flowers
very wide and long while taffetas strings edged
with green.
A violet tafetas bonnet entirely covered with
black lace and trimmed with a long feather of
the some shade as the tafetas twisted round
Toe crown and falling over the curtain in the
inside bunehes Of white violet, mixed with bouil-
tonnes Of tulle
very elegant, and at the same time simple
simPle style, was Of white Grape, with a wide
fold Of China blue gros de Naples a shade he
tween the corn flower and sky blue A Iong
leather, known BY the name of the plume de.
Sairee, was placed round the bonnet, falling
IKE graceful fringe over the front and the
curtain. small feathers of the same kind
mixed with the blonde in the inside. and BAN
ueau Oh blue ribbon across the forehead
Bonnets are still worn very open. thrown
oAek at the cheeks, and pointed in front. The
euI'dIh deep, put on IN large plaits arranged
IN such a manner as not to fall over the should
er', nor To stand out to s:iffly in the middle of
'he oack The crown inclines, and the inside
"i the bonnet Is very much trimmed with blonde
ana hoWers, placed either in small bououets-
'"o Of them high up ON the right side, and the
Two lower down on the left-or else a small
wreath carried across the forehead
nice straw and Grape, mixed with velvet and
mowers or feathers, seem tO be the fayorits ma
'erIsls at present in use; and the Marie Stuart
Or fameia the prevailing shape of the season.
For evening cOidure, resilles Of pearls or gold
"ith punches Of flowers st the side, are much
worn The couture POmpadour, composed of a
band Of flagree silver, fastened at the side
under bow Of blue ribbon. with two smaller
BOWS Of the same ribbon, placed lower down
towards the back hair; and on the other side
TWO large roses, with foliage falling over the
nes&, mas q charmiIe effect
HE EInpress appeared the other evening in
an extremely elegant eOifure composed of a
IesIie oi gold, forming three points, one failing