The daily dispatch. [volume] (Richmond [Va.]) 1850-1884, 1857-07-09
DAILY DISPATCH.

- - =. - = . 70 = = -
TUr ROLL OF COOK FIR y


A riah. ancient document has como down 20 us
which was complied by tho MAESTRO Cookies OF Rich
ard the second, about the wear thirteen hundret
end ninety, and IL entitled The Roll OF curry te OF
name tor Cookery II lets cnrious light into til.
sastronomic laxuries most IN vogue amongst on
ancestors. We look in vain in this manuscript fo
any mention Of out great national dish There i
no trace of the Roast Beef of Old England. OF,
England had to grow older before il knew how 3,
breed and feed, aud learnt TO appreciate the might,
baron OF hecf Old England was still in her youth
aud cared only for spoon-meat All tho one hundra,
and ninety dishes set forth In tho roll were proa
lily eaten with the aid Of spoons or fingers ant
Joints vera never served whole We cnnceitct
rno,ierns might take profitable lesson from them
Our ancestors IN those DAYS appeared to hay,
lived much after the French fashion. aud fed upor
soups, stsws, and hsshes. Butter seems 10 hav,
been eeldom used; II IL only mentioned twice. but
olive oil end lard we're employed instead. Saffron
was an article for large consumption for coiorinl
and sarnishing purposes. Rice also was much used
Sugar 10 seldom mentioned--in fact il must have
heen somewhat of rarity in those days; it Wa
probably obtained from the East Indies by way o
Damascus and Aleppo 90 Venice Genoa. or Pisa
Honey was used a sweeteuer instead II had
bean - employed from the earliest times: particu
larry tn England, where ii was the chief c"nstit
ucnt OF mead and methegln Ancient cooks had =
method of clarifying IL, by putting il in pot
with whites Of eggs aud water. and heating the
whole well together; they then act II on the fire
and whom Just boiling over, they took II of and Let
ii cool For seasoning and favoriug they used two
powders-p0wder fort and powder dauce The for
mer was prepared nom the warmer spices pappor
Ringes. &c: he letter being mixture of the mder
rromattb spices. Both these pow ders were prob
ably to 10 purchased at the mediNval crocer,
stores ready made up.
Let the master cooks speak for themselves. md
toll US the object OF their manuscript in their own
quaint language. Thoy shall spell, too, as they
choose -
This form of Curry waa compiled Of tho chief
mslstsr Coks, of kyng Richard the Secundo, kyne
OF Englond, after the Conquest the which was AZ
Al tha haa a ~
ably for oyander epicure) ''of allie Christian
kyngs, and il Was complied by the assent and
avysenent OF masters OF phislk and Of phil0sophi,
that dweiied In hys court FIRST it techith maj
Tor TO make commune potages and commune
meets For howshold they shall be made CreftI,
snd holsonlly- Afferward II tochith for to make
curious potages OF meets bottle of fessh aud FISH
buth ysette here by nounbre end nv ortro $50
inns little teble here sewing" (eusuing following
''wole techa q man with cute tarryyng to fynds
what meets that hymn lust for to have Here fol
lows table OF contents Astounding in obsolete and
oninielligible names, Of which let these serve a.
examples: fredure, monchelet, bnkkonade conuat
drepee, make, pa"menee, clst, HppHlmOy, and
gyndawdry. There are ALSO receipts for max inq
poehoe, tostse, tsrtes, and blank desire.
One OF tho first things that tho reader will notice
In perustng this aoOdly rule is tho enormous scale
on which the dlshes devised. But this is not
20 surprising when We consider TINT they were in
tended for the large household of the king or the
mobiles, and that individuals or small parties had
thor qusntun, or ordinary served out The fol
lowing directions for ueking Pyggs in sswse saw 20
or Plgs with sage sauce, is on very extensive
scale: Take pyggs yskaldid Ito remove the biis
ties we presumeJ and ou.rt,r them .nJ .a.tI
them in water and salt tako them and lat them
kele (cool;l take parsel tprohsbly parsley sawge
and grynde it with bredo and yoIks of ayron
yolks OF eggs harde vsnde lboilcel tompor il M
with vyDeaef somewhat tbyk and i.v thr ,voo. in
a vessel, and the sewe onOward (the sauce over
them,) and serve ii forth" What sublime disre-
card OF the demon of indigestion liz. in tL u,,is
:Take pia,U Size and uurl.r go, ~ NO ,D
mept. We presume ths smallest ,f nGrL linz, .,
3ntend.d d exr.lleut Charles Iami, I,,I,,,r,, Al
euloaisar of rrsclIirg hoys tlnn III, t
aroaned In spirit AT The ,ner. thnuoLt ~ srcL -
sacrilsaei BoiIeI surking-ni.,,
They had too. a yiqor1ns and athsI,ic ,yov If
treating tho yianJs In Richard tha sar,,,,ds Tina
which has anita dsuart.d from ~. T., r.a,;, -,
for making geese In Lngaepot, Va Sra t,iJ +, Tato
geese a nd anita than in the nery. Th, Visa ~,
6.rd-b nilad .oga nIao 1, ~ Ia. bo,sal t;, r. ~
hares and hewe them a. gobett. AMI TsIn
chyken, and bail them in ,,,jr Irth. ana r.r,,,.
than nm which Iattar 20. WOO ~ 49, I'm
closely together nftnr the manner of E,a,yn
There l. a comnreh,nsiy. rern1t t,. oaI.a
which carta;DIy ,vonlI nat ~ IaE,;,., =; '
esnecialIr of fha onion. : ursL,, ,.,r.I,. 800
unrlic chibolls chivasl o,,inn. iL '5
mint nsrratfas Is sort ~ lnI, = c'',i "mi" W
rue, rosemary. and nnrsIoin InTn AMI y,.b ,E,,',
blano mix a than ,,Iuk n o,, .,n,I ,r;tb o.. ,i
and mTn ola thap, ,val with ,a,r. III H., 80 '
and saIt ga sarra - fti >, ''' 10y ." y irS.i
have 40 little yarsd ss fri,,ors nv a So
Tai aox &.
nener and ssfton and max tbsr,f ~" = ''
ID ,ar. ell 81 80 - 10 IN "hto"i N"S''eIj
srd tsat tban, tharrr ond e. tir ~ i.io P.' -
with frash groo. ana .orva 1, 80 y ',io Dae"u
the berL, alive mantinn.I ar. .,Ib,r , y; VI
dead urowo now and In this raunont u,'' W III
have fsIjen hehind far hv thar ii W. ti"uti US
,nada tba ,nost dalirinu. ga an, I, tii '"i =
Tn. word ssnoka a" II, ~ s'il,,';,
dentIy haa the sense Of cook "For - ,oaI'pa r,i
lister obstsr) He shall be- rostyd in his .csIy. IN
an o'yu oI py he Ieef thre) under panne and
saIsrtion. from So much hat il ~ u' VIZ 10 n""
has probably heen said ON this suIi,cd ~, VII
therefore only give one more example which is
somewhat startling. 1t contains instructions for
making tsitS III appil5 not al'n-tart rs will i'm
ueua'el1 20 seen iaAe Gode applis, sud code
'P!ts anu hR>o' anu le'suiH ana pcly- pears
ana wneh theg are vel ybraycd (lu moTtar,J col
nnreo WIN Halroh Wei put Vt III a cOfyn, do VI
iorth 10 bake Vol. In order Ia calm the appre~
hohsion OF inc tlnld IL may be stated, that cohyn
III t1s instance a. Dot what II le popularity SUD
posed TO be- but raised pie without any top
Inc ola EhEifh cooks ara SurpaHsNd lay dish
ohse presented To an English Ambassador OF the
Conrt OF the Emperor OF Morocco. 1t was brought
, ny W. hion oisIlr'ns unuet the Ioad oi hand
barrow, the contents OF which were an enormous
Cooscosoo. This being deposited was followed NV
an entire sheen skinned hut nr.s.ntin,r nv. ao'
rotund appearance as it he'd done when LI,atinn in
its native pastures. Icisipn being made bowey,r
a bounteous discharge extruded of uuddiugs t,rccd
meats, minceireats, and ndescribable etceteras in
all sorts Of tsncu forms ready dressed in ysrinn,
fantastic forms.
However much we NAV Lrs, heen s,,,,,..t t,, A.
catalogue of yiands constructed 10 Ilo,ss 49,, ~
Of the royal epicurs ty ths Roll Of -. vs. l'lo
lay 1t aside without cGngra tulatins oursot,as nt
unon the whole culinary t.sta - LII w., 'h''
proved although thor. ar. manx Ht,Ia ,t i.'a" IN
of principle and detail in whilb wv, 'iT oo,l
very advantageous hints fr,n tho sucinntes o