Semi-weekly standard. [volume] (Raleigh, N.C.) 1853-18??, 1857-08-01

Especial Correspondence of the N. Daily Times.]
AET InDnJIS


Especial Correspondence of the n 7. Daily Times.
HELlOPOLIS.
The CSty and the Desert-TAe Nile Ooeraow.7he
06ehs6-1Ae 1bis-7he Big Tree Of Mary and
Joseph.
CAIRO, Egypt
Inc climate OF Egypt in October is beyond all de-
scription delicious The sun is hot but the air is
so clear and rich and invigorating that we do not
find the slightest Inconvenience ladies or gentlemen,
in riding for miles over the descr: donkcys, and
that without sun-shades. Before leaving America
we discussed for long time the ways and means of
sheltering ourselves from the sunshine, and we in
vented extra thick umbrellas and parasols, but we
have never opened one since arrived in Egypt,
nor found the need of using them have even dis
carded my broad-brim felt hat and adopted the tar.
bouche the universal head covering of the East worn
by Franks and Mussulmans alike, consisting of a
simple red cap, without front or rim having a heavy
silk tassel. 1t fits the head perfectly, and the hair
is cut off close the tahkea, thin skuli-cap of white
linen, being worn inside of the tarb0uche. Wearing
this, without shade to eyes or face, experience no
Inconvenience in the hottest sunshine of the Arabian
DESERT and the ladies wear their ordinary bonnets
Yesterday morning rose at o'clock, an hour
earlier than usual for the sake of making day at
Heliopolis.
The Indian Hotel the smallest of the three at Cairo,
has the reputation of being the best, and we can
commend it cordially for we have found none pleas
anter, and no landlord so anxious to please The
landlady provided the usual lunch which take
with us for days expedition, and may as well
describe it. to give you idea of the food Of Egypt:
Cold chicken, for chickens and eggs abound in the
country; cold mutton, not good, for the mutton of
Egypt is miserable; cold pigeons, bread, Smyrna
figs fresher than at home, the fresh figs of
Egypt not being to our taste; dates gathered from
the palms which tower all around us oranges in
abundance; one ponegranate, larger than you ever
imagined that fruit, larger than y.u would suppose
six of them could be, measuring seventeen inches in
circumference, and breaking open with its deep
crimson luxuriance lemons and sugar for lemonade,
they would call it here sherbet;; waercooler
that is, bottle made of earthen and not glazed,
that the water evaporates, and what does not 60
off is made cold; and then the minor necessaries in
the way of salt and spices fill up the bags which lie
the donkeys back the servant riding between
them. Such is literally our everyday lunch, and
you may judge whether it probable we shall starve
in the land of Egypt. might add to this that on
the way we purchased a watermelon and some
musk melons, but We did not find them good, as the
season is not now good one for them in perfection.
The donkeys were at the door soon as we had
taken coffee. The Egyptian ladies always ride out
side. The American ladies' would find it safer, but
they prefer the American fashion, and accordingly
sidesaddlcs here found for which you pay extra
each time you them. We have purchased two
for our while in Egypt, and to take into Syria
with us.
The donkey boys, five of them-sharp Arab boys
who have picked up enough English to give them a
fair chance of graduating into guides and dragomcn
as they grow older-were waiting also, and we noun
ted and were of at the furious galop with which
the Egyptian donkeys always leave and return to
the hotel. Four Americans are no small crowd in
the narrow streets of Cairo, and adding Turkish
servant with flowing trousers, and five boys shout
ing and raining blows on the donkeyS, you have
stampede that may well terrfy the shop-keepers
whose legs hang over the fronts of their cupboard
stores.
The shouts Of cont of the way fol-. the American
1ani of aka IF
your legs, OH shopkeeper!" "To the right!' "To
the left!" Stop your camels!" Take care around
the corner!" "Oh-Ah, oh-4h-riglak- shem-
dlk," with which small crowd of boys rend the
air, must by this time, have become familiar to Ca
rone ears, for the only foreign travellers
in Egypt, and have been alone for several weeks the
Winter travel not having as yet commenced And
we have threaded all nearly all the streets and
lanes of the entire city, that faces toler
ably well known.
Up narrow lane, short to the left through street
not four feet wide, with houses each side fifty
feet high. Short to the right into low arched pas
sage hundred feet long, which is street, though
houses arc built over it. Through : street lined
with ruins the habitations of the Carenes offs GEN.
fury ago, deserted and desOate, passing heavy
gate Of the quarter gates for each section of the
city is shut off from all the Others and may be closed
wholly to ingress and egrcss. Then mile through
crowded passages-I beg pardon, the principal streets
Of the city-lined with shops for all manner of fruits
naked children stand bargaining, and so out Of the
imposing gates of the city, and on the desert, which
rolls its of sand literally against the walls of
Cairo. Such was our route, and we did it in what
We should call in America splendid time, consider.
ing the distractions in the shape of Arabs and chill
dren.
Outside the gates the scene changed instantly.
There are suburbs to this city. The hills of sand
are covered with graves and monumental stones near
the gates but there are no houses and after crossing
the first rolling wave you are in solitude as pro-
found that in the heart Of the Libyan desert. l
speak of the east side of the city. The west
side is covered with luxuriant gardens reaching to
the Nile.
We stopped occasionally at store to purchase
some triting article that was curious, but fastened
or sign of the great city, crossing the point of sand
which reaches down into the cultivated land, and
which must be crossed on the way to Heliopolis.
The intelligent reader does not need to be told
that Heliopolis the city Of the sum- was the seat OF
learning in ancient Egypt and lies not far from the
southern boundary Of the land of Goshen OF its
ancient grandeur nothing now remains. Though
the greatest of old times were here; though all
philosophy, all wisdom traced its origin to the teach
ers of this place; though Plato ana his illustrous
countrymen sought it as the grand source of knowl-
edge yet at this day its site is marked only by the
solitary obelisk that lifts its tall form over grove of
oranges and pomegranates melancholy monument.
Yet, perhaps no other spot in Egypt possesses more
interest to the Christian traveller; for on this same
obelisk-stern, solemn, calm it now seems in the
sunshine over the waving trees-on the same granite
column have been fixed the eyes Of Abraham and
Jacob Though Egyptian chronologiss dispute
about exact dates believe that all agree on at least
this muchthat this obelisk is older than the days
of the Patriarchs how old shall not attempt to say
Strabo tells us Of the magnifcence of Heliopos in
his day, of its temples and of sphinxes its
splendid statues and lofty walls. OF these there
none now. In the midst of the sandy plain is a