New-York daily tribune., 1857-04-24
.>ei their eyes from as orth we WIRE stoSsd
.~.v Tor The wight n oar warm Hest.


n ~ss showing and blowing when We arose.
Long isaae Lad gone 10 the woods After tho rein-
deer. and we employed the delay in making break
fast Of the Ieavinss of our supper. Crossing the
Muenio at starting, We entered the Russian terri.
tory and drove up the bed of the Palajok tribu-
tsry stream which comes down from the north.
The shy became clearer NJ the dawn increased; the
road was toIerably broken, and We sped merrily
along the ~ipdipgs of the river, under it's tan
banks fringed with FIR trees, which, loaded with
snow. shone brilliantly white against the rosy sky.
The temperature was g. below zero, which felt
unpleasantly warm, by contrast with the previous
evening After time we left the river and en-
tered rolling upland-alternate tbickets of FIR
and birch and wastes of frozen marsh, where our
path was almost obliterated. After more than two
hours travel We came upon q large lake, at the
further end Of which on the southern side of hill
was the little hamlet of Suontajarvi Here We
stopped to bait the deer Braisteds and mine being
nearly tagged out. We entered one Of the huts,
where pleasant woman was taking charge Of a
and the wind whistled through the open crack. Of
the floor. Long Isaac and the woman saluted each
other by placing their right arms around each 9th
ers waists, which is the universal manner of greet
ing in Finland. They only shake hands as a token
of thanks for favor.
We started again at H. taking our way
across a wilderness Of lakes and SNOW covered
Marshes dotted with stunted birch thickets. The
road had entirely disappeared, but Eric of PalaOki,
who accompanied US as an extra guide, went ahead
with a strong reindeer and ploted The
sagacity with which these animals find the track
under a smooth covering of loose snow, is wonder
full. They follow by the feet, of course but with
the utmost ease and rapdty often while going at full
speed. l was struck by the sinuous, may char
acter Of our course even where the ground was
level, and could only account for it by the supposi
ton that the first track over the light snow had
followed the smoothest and firmcst ridges Of the
marshes. Our progress was now slow and toll
entirely. Long Isaac, seeing that change must
be- made, finally made up his mind to give me
Wild powerful animal, which he had not yet VEN
tured to intrust TO either of us.
The deer was barnessed to my puk, the rein
carefully secured around my wrist, and Long Isaac
let go bis hold. A wicked toss of the antlers and
prodigious jump followed, and the animal rushed
full tilt upon Braisted, who was next before me,
striking him violeStly upon the back. The more /
endeavored TO rein him in, the more he plunged
and tore, now dashing against the led deer, now
hurting me over the baggage pulk, and now leap
ing of the track into bottomless beds of loose
snow. Long Isaac at last shouted to me to 60
ahead and follow Eric, who was about half a mile
in advance. A few furious plunges carried me past
our little caravan, with my puk full of snow and
my face likewise. Now, lowering his neck and
tbrusting out his head with open mouth and glar-
ing eyes, the deer set of at the top of his speed
Away went like lance shot out from the AZ
rora armory: the puk slid over the snow with the
swiftness of q fish through the water; torrent OF
snow-spray poured into my lap and showered
against my face, until l WAS completely blinded.
Eric was oyertaken 80 quickly that he had no time
to give me the track, and as / was not in cOndi-
tion to see or hear anything, the deer, with the
stupidity of his race, sprang directly upon him,
trampled him down, and dragged me and my pulk
while Eric shook himself and started again. Ny
deer now turned and made for the caravan, but
succeeded in pulling bis head around, when he
charged second time upon Eric, who threw HIM
self out of his pulk TO escape. My strength was
fast giving way, when We came TO ridge of deep,
loose snow, in which the animals sank above their
bellies, and up which they could hardly drag US.
My deer was 10 exhausted when We reached the
top that had no farther difsculty in controlling
him.
Before us stretched trackless plain, bounded by
low mountain ridge. Eric set of at fast trOt,
winding hther and thither as his deer followed the
invisible path. kept close behind him, white as a
Polar bear but glowing like volcano under my
furs The temperature was lO' below zero, and
could have wished it ten degrees colder. Ny deer,
although bis first savage strength was spent, was
still full Of spirit, and began to enjoy this mode
of travel. We soon entered the hills, which were
covered with thickets Of frozen birch, with here
and there a tall Scotch fir completely robed in
snow. The sun, which had showed about half his
disc at noon, was now dipping under the horizon,
and pure orange glow lighted up the dazzling
masses Of the crystal woods. All was shver.clear,
far and near, shining, a, if by its own light, with
an indescribabe radiance. We had struck upon a
well-beaten track on entering the hills, and hew
swiftly along through this silent splendor, this jew
eled solitude, under the crimson and violet dome Of
the sky. Here WAS true Northern romance; hero
was poetry beyond all the Sagas and Eddas that
ever were written.
We passed three Lapps, with heavy hay-seds,