Fremont journal. [volume] (Fremont, Sandusky County [Ohio]) 1853-1866, 1857-01-30


and coarser kind. Muorrc assurcd mo that
would find many Of the same type still ex2
isting, whom should VISIT the Losoien isles.
lie spent Summer among the scenes de-
scribcd in the "Affaia,r and his Inscriptions
arc so remarkably faithful that AIcxnndef.
Zeigier nscd the book as bis bcst 9tiidc ~
going over the same ground this ycnr
We had fog and rain during our stay ~
Berlin, and did not sec the proud capital 10
its full splcndor. That portion lying between
the Brandenburg Gate and the Royal resi-
dencc Il nobly laid out, and, for the most
part, handsomely built The avenue aUnEf
der the Liudcns" is on a mach more grand
lose scale than the Ludwigstrassc in Munich,
(Which is partly copied from ii,) but has not
the same rich and harmonious effect The
streets Of Berlin have q stiff, bare, ostentar
tious appearance, corresponding well with
the estimation in which the Berlincse are
held throughout Germany. The populacc,
even at Krolls famous theater and beer sa-
loon in the Thicrgaiteen, have grave, Sc
date, perked-up air. There is nothing Of
the warm, joyous, effervescent character Of
the Viennese, OF the more heavy and bcery,
but still honest. familiarity Of the Bayari1
ans. However, will not Judge Berlin or
its people too rashly, for | hope to visit the
place again before returning home.
went of course to the Museum and saw
the picture Gallery, which contains great
many good pictures, and very few great
ones. Among the latter are Titan's Christ
and Correggio's Jupiter and To- Thcre arc
also some admirable antiques in the Sculp-
turc Gallery, The new Museum is probar
bly, the most superb institution of the kind
in the world. Everybody knows the engra-
wings Of Kaulbach's frescoes (not yet finish
ed) which illuminate the grand staircase,
and felt inclined to forgive the Vandalisin
of Lcpsius when l saw with what taste and
splendor his spois were displayed. In the,
thcaters | saw Frau Birch-Pfeifier, the dra-
matte authorcss, and Emil Devrient. The
former is porty dame of forty-fvo with
dark hair, and one Of those ample faces
whose vivacious expression relieves them
from the charge of heavincss. She is an
excellent comic actress. Emil Devrient dis
putcs with Dawson, in Dresden, the claims
to the title of first German tragcdian Hav-
ing seen both, have no hesitation in deci-
ding in favor of the former. saw him
only in Hofei's play of "Laurcl and Beg
gar's Stag but he is most renowned in
hamlet in which part, indeed, he has no.
acknowledged superior.
We left Berlin on the 29th, and came d.
rcctly hither, distance of $50 miles, by
railroad. | noticed ir the cars new con-
trivance for warming the feet which in our
case was wholly successful Long, fat box
es of tin or zinc, covered with carpeting and
filed with hot sand, are placed upon tho
floor, between the seats, so that the passen-
gers on both sides can make use of them.
These boxes were mildly warm when wo
started and not quite cold when we arrived
at Hamburg, eight hours afterwards. The
country through which VIC passed is easily
described as it was one unvarying level,
scraggy pine forests interchanging with
snowcd-ove fields, and occasionally an ugly
village. We stopped two or three times for
bread and cheese, beef-soup and (for those
who wanted it) brandy. We pass through
the territories of Mecklenburg and Hulstein
without knowing it and finally, on hearing
marks asked for at the station instead Of
groschen, discovered that we were approach
ing Hamburg. 1t was not o'clock, but VIC
were already in the North, and as much
twilight as could be got out of sky heavy
with snow lighted us to the hotel.
We have now been here nearly three days,
endeavoring to ascertain something about
the best means of getting further. After
pcruSing newspapers, consulting bankers and
post-office clerks, finally telegraphed to.
Lubec, and have Just received an answer
stating that the Carl Johan will leave that
port for Stockholm on Monday, Dec. /. The
cost of sending 25 words and receiving 10
in answer, distance Of 40 miles, was one
Prusian thaler (about ~ cents) Winter is
here in full blast the sleighs are in the
streets, the north wind is keen, and the mer-
curry has fallen to 14o. Hamburg has
more of the picturesque than most trading
towns, the canals cutting through il from the
Alsterdam TO the Elbe, reminding one of
Bruges. The great fire was great improve
ment. Splendid streets, raised to fifteen
feet above the former level, have taken the
place of the old narrow mcandering thor
oughfares, and Palladian palaces have risen
upon the ruins of the old notched house ga
bles. 1t is lively, bustling, cosmopolitan
place, with English, French and German
signs, oyster-ccllars, sailors of all nations on
the quays, and riotous dancing every night
in the suburb of St. PAUL.. There are 9TH
wise no remarkable sights to see here, which
is quite relief.
l.. r.. seA