New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1857-05-09


with bis masters weight after him.
The Lapps generally treat their animals with
the greatest patience and forbearance but other
wise do not exhibit any particular attachment for
them. They are indebted to them for food. cloth
inc, habitation and conveyance, and their very e1-
stence may therefore almost be said to depend on
that of their herds II is surprising. however,
what number of deer are requisite for the sup
port of a family. Won Buch says that Lapp who
has hundred deer is poor, and VIII b. hnslly
driven TO descend 10 the coast and take 10 fishng
The cows are never made to labor, but are kept IN
the woods for milking and breeding. Their milk
is said to be rich and nourishing but have not yet
had an opportunity oftesting il. The cheese made
from it is strong and not particularly paatabe. 1t
Yields an oil which ia the sovereign specific for
frozen flesh The male deers used for draft are
always castrated. which operation the old l.spp
women perform BY slowly chewing the glands be-
tween their teeth until they are reduced to pulp
without wOunding the hide.
During this journey have had ample OppOr-
tunity of famisrzing myself with reindeer travel
1t is picturesque enough at the outset, but when
the novelty OF the thing is worn of nothing Is lett
but continual drain upon ones patience. Nothing
can exceed the GOODNESS with which your deer
Jumps Oft the track slackens bis tOw-rOpe, turns
around and looks you in the face as much as to
say: What are you going to do about it - The
simplicity and stupidity of his countenance seem
TO YOU 10 be admirably fegned, and unless you are
an old hand you are inevitably provoked. This is
particularly pleasant on the marshy tahle-lands OF
Lapland where, if he takes notion tn bolt with
YOU. your pulk bounces over the hard tussocks,
sheeis sideways down the sudden pitches, or
swamps itself in beds of loose snow. Harness
frisky sturgeon to dug-out,' in rough sea, and
You will have some idea of this method OF travelling.
While acknowledge the Provdential disposition
of things which has given the reindeer to the Lapp,
| cannot avoid thanking Heaven that l am not a
Iapp. and that l shall never travel again with
reindeer.
The alterations of our deer obliged us to take a
very sinuous course. Sometimes We headed north
and sometimes south, and the way seemed 50 long
that mstrusted the quality of our guide; but at
last light shone ahead. Ii was the hut of Eta
jarvi. A lot of puks lay in front of it, and the
old Finn stood already with fir torch, waiting to
light us in. On arriving, Anton was greeted by his
sister Caroline, who had come thus far from Muo-
nOvara on her way 10 visit SOME relatives at Alien
gard. She was in company with some Films, who
had left Lippajarvi the day previous, but losing
their way in the storm, had wandered about for
twenty four hours, exposed to its full violence.
Think of an American girl of eighteen sitting in
an open pulk, with the thermometer at zero, flu
rous wind and binding snow beating upon her, and
neither rest nor food for day There are few who
would survive twelve hours yet Caroline WAS as
fresh. lively and cheerful as ever, and immediately
set about cooking our supper. We found fire in
the cold guests room, the place swept and cleaned,
and good bed of deer-skns in one corner. The
temperature had sunk to ~ below zero, and the
wind blew through wide cracks in the floor, but
between the fire and the reciprocal warmth of our
bodies we secured a comfortable sleep-a thing of
the first consequence in this climate.
Our deer started well in the morning, and the
Lapp guide knew his way perfectly. The wind had
blown so strongly that the track was cleared rather
than filed, and We slipped up the long slopes at
rapid rate | recognized the narroy valley where
we first struck the northern streams, and the snowy
plain beyond, where our first Lapp guide lost his
way BY this time it was beginning to grow lighter,
showing us the dreary wastes of table-and which
We had before crossed in the fog. North of US was
plain Of unbrOken snow, extending to level line
on the horizon, where ii met the dark violet sky.
Were the color changed, it would have perfectly
represented the sandy plateaus of the Nublan
Desert, in 30 many particulars does the extreme
North initiate the extreme South. But the sum-
which never deserts the desert had not yet returned
to these solitudes. Far, far away on the edge of
the sky, dull red glmmer showed where ne moved
Not the table land Of Pamir, in Thibet, the cradle
of the Oxus and the Indus, but this lower Lap
land terrace, is entitled to the designation of the
"Roof Of the World" We were on the summit,
creeping along Der mountain rafters, and looking
southwark, off her shelving caves, to catch
glimpse of the light playing on her majestic 'front.'
Here. for once. we seemed to look down on the
horizon, and l thought of Europe and the Tropics
as lying below. Our journey northward had been
an ascent, but now the worlds steep slOped down
ward before US into sunshine aud warmer air. In
ascending the Andes or the Himalayas, you pass
through all climates and belts of vegetation between
the Equator and the Pole, aud so journey due
north, beyond the circle Of the sun, simply reverses
the phenomenon, and impresses one like the ascent
of mountain ON the grandest possible scale.
In two hours from the time we lett Eitajarvi We
reached the Lapp eneampment. The herds OF deer
had been driven in from the woods, and were elu'-
tered among the birch bushes around the tents
We had some difficulty in getting our own deer