Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1857-12-11
THE FASHIONS.
Of N Y. Journal OF Comnere,



mite form. The clear cold weather of the last
few days has produced great display Of warm
garments. The autumnal shawls are discarded;
The burnOus, talma, 6c., have replaced them.
The burnOus isdscidedly the garment preferred,
and il certainly the warmest and most comfort
able mantle that has been worn for many wears
past. There are, also, cloth shawls with a
1Ounce OF the same, Ornamented with fancy
trimmings, or velvet, with Jet satin ruches and
guipure. The plain black velvet burnous with
cut any trimming but long tassel TO the hood.
Is q remarkably handsome cloak For elderly
ladies We see number Of plain satin pelisses
OuT most distinguished mantus maker, Madame
EauVet, 4 hue du Menars. still trims dresses
with hounecs, although the side ornaments
double skirts and apron trimmings, appear 10
have the preference. The bodies of robes are
prOfusely trimmed, and generally have berthes
made Of fringes or chenille mixed with black
: buSles and steel beads. Closed sleeves. plated
gathered at the top and at the wrist with a
broad wrlstoand, are only worn for morning
dress. In some OF the rich silks and now ma.
terials now appearing, the side ornaments are
woven IN the skirt; thus a ground Of dark
blue, green or dove color, are quilles of black
velvet, which, when fringed at the bottom. suit
we'll for a double skirt. On lighter and brighter
cOlOrs, hOunces Of black lace are so we'll imi-
tated that they almost require to be touched to
bs quite sure that they are only pattern on
the dress Fancy reps, pOplins and cotelines
manner.
representing half breadth in stripes of various
widths, in a mixture of colors suitable to the
ground OF the dress; sometimes only of two
eOl0rs, the pattern being in the darker color
A light brown Irish Popfin forms a becoming
dinner dress; the skirt is ornamentOd by six
black satin bayadere stripes, brOchees in all
eOlOrs The body, plain and high, has baya-
dere stomacher, the reyers, brstelles. and large
open sleeves are trimmed to match. A robe of
plain grss grain silk has two skirts; the lower
one ornamented with tive founces edged with
tafetas Of the same shade "a the dress-the
upper one, on the sides, with two lozenges, with
long tassel at the end.
In the inside Of bonnets Madame AIphonsine
II Rue du Helder, places a bandeau Of flowers;
from this she sometimes substitutes a bandeau
Of velvet, bright blue or .poncsau and edged
with grelots of jet. The bandeau ID ended with
velvet bow or a boquet of flowers Dark vel
vet is the material now used for boppets: the
crown is slOping and three rows Of the same
eolored velvet, but OF a lighter shade, are
placed round II; at equal distances are placed
bOuclettes, crossing each other. On the front
are the same bOuclettes, mixed with black lace
The curtain Is of velvet, covered with black
lacs, passing beyond the edge. On the left side
the bonnet Is bOquet of moss; inside blonde
cap, with small tufts Of moss Black velvet is
often trimmed with plaid velvet ribbon, par
tcularly Tor young ladies. Grey velvet and
terry velvet have the crown covered with net
Of black buges, and trimmed inside with black
velvet.
TuIIs and velvet form very becoming heal :
dresses; pink terry veivet and white tulls are
Blended the tulle spreads behind like fan
and IS crossed here and there by bands of vel
Vet; in front there is fat velvet band: on each
side TUFTS Of velvet are mixed with flowers of
the velvet hanging down in bunches Wehaye
seen beautiful wreaths Of scarlet flowers min
glei With gold eUrrants. But the most becon-
ing and Tschsrcts cOifure is decidedly the gold
aud coral head-dress lately produced by Sara
Tln, II Boulevard st. Danis When worn with
white pale blue dress, nothing can be more
elegant than light and graceful Wreaths the gold
and coral cOlOTs suit both the blonde and the
brunette. These garlands are accompanied by
trimming for the dress to match; an agraf.
Tor the corsage and wreaths or bouquets for the
skirt according to the style Of the toilette For
young ladies the tay0rite cOifures are yreatbs
aud cache psisHes of flowers. Pink or white
sGO| balls form a wreath, whilst a number of
leaves fall gracefully from the left side The
gIrlands generally very large and full;
many have smaller Wreaths falling ON the
shoaldsr. The flowers vogue are the pink
cactus, cape clemats, hops and willow; some
times gold leaves are mingled with these
flowers.
The pocket handkerchief is one Of the sx-
travagant items Of a lady's toilette The inf
Hite variety which may be seen Au Sublime
Porte. Hue de Ia Paix,- the celebrated estab-
Ishment Of Paris for this speciality i'm the
shaPe, material, trimming and cost of the hand
ksrehief IS surprising The favOrite style of
tLIs season, for a simple toilette, is the round
festOOned mOHehOiT, with the initials embrod-
cred IN the corner; generally surrounded by a
deleately embroidered wreath of flowers For
ttled dOmes the coat Of arms replaces the
flowers
In the controversy which is being carried on
by the United States press with regard to the
rfrax-
Try women, a great mistake is made by those
who aver that We suIpass the Partisan danes
IL luxury Of costume. Broadway cannot show
more expensively attired women than are seen
On the BOuleyards. Superb velvet Of so and
o. francs the metre, laces of fabulous prices
sweep the mud or the dust Of the great thorough
fares. have seen IN the churches, lace aOun-
,es and trimmings covering silk dresses, which
ten years back, would have been considered a
magnificent toilette for bail room. Unfortu-
na,ely this passion for extrav agant and insult
able Costume Is not confined 10 the higher or
wealthy classes; it perysdes all degrees in the
s1cial scale. The Parisian pstIts bOHr9eOisIe
was until late years, remarkable for simplicity
and suitability in furniture. clothing and style
1i!lVing; now the mistress of a Paris shop rivals
her lady customers in the color and quality Of
L-r costume. The femme dc chambre has
changed the becoming plated white cap and
calico gown for her MISTRESS cast of bonnet
females from the Empress to the ehifOnisrs
But fortunately, this change is confined to the
capital, the rest Of France retains the old fash
i'ned simplicity. The uOblesse and the rich Of
The pr6vinces set good examble by their taste
forplGinness VI costume and economy in furnI-
tgTe- Judging from your immense importa-
ton Of luxuries, presume that the fair sex Of
tAe country towns. and even the Far West,
emulate the fnery of the DANES Of the large
eItes This seems prolific evil; for the greater
part Of the fathers and husband cannot be sup
posed 10 pOsse the same amount or chances Of
wealth Is thOee Of the large commercial cities
wherein patrimOuial estates and great enter
Prts-s are common. Costly and hashy toilette
does not beft provincial rural life; simplicity
limit accompanying neatness and suficiency,
are the traits which belonged to it in days of
yOre. ..
EHE RATELs Francois Ravel, the youngest
.! Tie i've brothers Of that remarkable family,
"a led Saturday, Last NsW YORK Eu-