Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1857-05-30

which had almost ripened TO sunrise, now with.
cred away 10 night without sunset. We had
at last seen day without sun.
The snowy hills to the north, il is true, were
tinged with food of rosy flame, aud the very
next day would probably bring down the tide
mark OF sunshine to the tops of the houses. -
One day, however, was enough to satisfy me
You, my heroic friend, may paint with true
pencil, and still truer pen, the dreary solemni-
ty of the long Arctic night but, greatly as |
enjoy your Incompatible pictures, much as |
honor your courage and your endurance, you
shall never tempt me to share in the experience
The South is cup which one may drink to
nebrlailon but one taste from the cy goblet
of the North is enough 10 allay curiosity and
quench oil further desire Yet the contrast
between these two extremes has come home to
me wildly but once during this journey. A
travellers mind must never stray too far from
the things about him, and long habit has enab-
led me TO throw myself entirely into the cond-
lions and circumstances of each separate phase
OF my wandering life, thereby preserving dis
tnct the sensations and experiences of each,
and preventing all later confusion in the mem
ory. But the other day, at Muonovara, as |
sat before the fire in the early afternoon dark
ness, there flashed across my mind a vision of
cloudless Egypt-palm trees rusiling in the hot
wind, yellow mounian-walls rising beyond the
emerald plain Of the Nile, the white pencils of
mlnareis in the distance, the creamy odor of
5ean-blossoms in the air--a world of glorious
vitality, where Death seemed an unacconniable
i G.. II.
ance, aud all Nature frowned with robber S
demand to give it up. flung my pipe across
the room, and very soon, behind fast reindeer.
drove away from the disturbing reminscence.
went across the valley to the schoolmaser's 5
house, TO make sketch Of Kautokeino, but
the frost was so thick on the windows that |
was obliged 10 take a chair in the open air and
work with bare hands. soon learned the val
ue of rapidity in such an employment. We
spent the afternoon n the Landsmanns parlor,
occasionally interrupted by the visits OF Lapps,
who, having heard Of our arrival, were very
curious 10 behold the first Americans who have
ever reached this part of the world. They
came into the room with the most perfec, free
dom. saluted the Landsmann, and then turned
to stare at us until they were satisfied, when
they retired TO give place to others who were
waiting outside. We were obliged 10 hold
quite levee during the whole evening. They
had all heard of America, hut knew very little
else about it, and many OF them questioned US,
through Herr Berger, concerning our religion
and laws. The fact Of the three Norwegian
residents being able to converse with us aston
ished them greatly. The Lapps OF Kautoke-
no have hitherto exalted themselves over the
lapps Of Karasjok and Karessuando, because
the Landsmann, Berger, and Pastor Hvoslei
could speak with English and French travellers
allfy 6Tees Gre s seSasisd aGsdd oSly l
with Norwegian and Swedish; and now their
pride received vast accession. "IIow is il
possible! !" said they TO Herr Berger "ihese
men come from the other side of the world and
you talk with them as fast in their own Ian
guagc as if you had never spoken any other -
The schoomaster, Lars Kaino, a one-armed
fellow, with a more than ordinary share of
acuteuess and intelligence, came to reques, that
! would take his portrait, offering to pay me
for my trouble / agreed 10 do it graiuitonsly,
on condition that should keep it myself, and
that he should bring his wife 10 be included in
the sketch.
He assonied, with some sacrifice of vanity,
and came around yesterday morning, in his hul-
iday snt of blue cloth. trimmed with scarlet
and yellow binding. His wife, shor: woman
Of about twenty-five, with face as fat and
round as platter, hut remarkably fair com
plcxon, accompanied him, though with evident
reluctance, and sat with eyes modesly cast
down while ] sketched her features The cir.
cumsiance of my giving Lars half a dollar at
the close of the sitting was Immediately spread
through kautokeino, and before night all The
Lapps of the place were ambitious 10 undergo
the same operation. Indeed, the report reach
ed The neighboring villages, and Hammerfes
merchant, who came in this morning from
distance of seven miles, obtained a guide at
less than the usual price, through the anxiety
OF the latter TO arrive in time to have portrait
taken. The shorlness of the imperfect day.
light, however, obliged me to decline further
offers, especially as there were few Lapps of
pure, unmixed blood among my visitors.
kautokeino is the northern limit of my Win
ter journey. shall visit Alieneaard next
Summer, on my way to the North Cape, and
there is nothing in the barren tract between TO
repay the excursion a, this time. have al
ready seen enough of the Lapps to undeceive
me in regard to previously formed opinions re-
specting them, and to take away the desire for
more intimate acquaintance. In features, as
in language, they resemble the Firms sufficient
ly To judicaie an chronological relationship. !
could distinguish little, if any, trace of the
Mongolian blood in them. They are fatter,
fairer, and altogether handsomer than the no.
madic oflshoois of that race, and resemble the
Esqnimaux 10 whom they have been compar-
ed) in nothing but their rude, filthy manner of
life Won Buch ascribes the difference in stat
ure and physical stamina between them and the
Firms to the use of the vapor-baih by the latter
and the aversion to water Of the former. They
are race OF Northern Gipsies, and il is the
restless blood Of this class rather than any want
of natural capacity which retards their ciyiliz-
alton. Although the whole race has been con-
veried to Christianity, end education is univer-
sat among them-no Lapp being permitted 10
marry until he can read and write--hey have
hut in too many respects substituted one form
of superstition for another. The spread of
temperance among them, however, has produc-