New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1856-06-24

their wonderful beauty making us exclain oisso
with Ruskin: did Claude ever paint that ~
In our Msying We 60 to seek Others moro Gu
chanting still-so come with me TO TivOli. There
s thrill in the word. II Is natures bet name
the one she calls her darling by. and where aha
keeps still the font where Beauty was baptized. But
Pegasus refuses to convey US thither on his hack
so we let 60 his wings and slide down IN thu
ground. and wait the carrisge that ia rumbling
dow n the COrsO with bells on ts hor,es m .. 40
in the morning. The Psdrooe packs US in ,itb
shawls, and baskets, and napkins, and breakfast.
and promises Of wine at AdrIan's villa, and 20 wa
set Of. The streets are silent, the goats NOD ana
nip the grass on the public squares. We feel we
must nod too in passing the low gate of st. Lcrsp
20, a slfburied arch Of an ancient aquednct
which still brings the "hdppy naters" TO the Foun.
tain de- TerniDi We turn back to admire the loftv
walls and battlements that flank and crown it,
part of the for.resses OF the city-then ride on be-
tween the walls of villas which hide the Campaigns,
but not the great fan pines and clustered cypresses
of the gardens that stand 90 boldly against the
white zone of the morning sky. Half mile from
the gate We pass one of the seven Roman Basili
cas- that If st. Lorenzo. Tradition declares il 10
have have been founded b! Constantine, the first
Christian Emperor, and that beneath its altar lice
the body Of stephen, the first Christian martyr
Rome 10 stamped all over with seals of the new
Covenant as Jerusalem and the Holy Land with
those of the old; aud it is these solemn souvenir
and the shadows Of its cobtiguity that sanctfy lie
outer beauty, making it an abode gay to the
S, uses, but serious to the SOUL thus falG ling the
life of both as scarcely another can.
But now a new poem is opening. The Cam
pagna spreads out around us-treeless since We
have passed the villas; but the aqueducfs, the
towers Of the Middle Ages, an occasional farm.
bouse, built into ancient rulrs, scattered hay.
attacks. lOLe converts, the mounds Of tOmbs. the
ouarres of travertinO, sid the variety the vision
fpds in the mountains around, relieve oil mOnot
ony in crossing the immense plain The accidents
of the waysiGe are unObtrusiye and diyer'ing
Here we pass bareheaded frar, in snuff. cOlOred
skirt, cloak and capuchin, with rope around bis
wsi.t, leading a donkey with fagots for his mon
sstery; peasant women in short petticoats with
laced legs and sandals OF hides, are tradging on
with bundles OF these same broken branches on
their heads; cattle drivers, with long poles, dash
BY us on horseback; tattered, bsrefooted children,
.and colored, like excrt SCIENCES OF the soil, start
after u.s. repeating, in endless breath, "SignOrs
"mia, sigDOIna bella, lady mine, beautiful maiden,
q" for the love Of the hoy Madonna our sanctifed
"mother, give me half baioccho." You ac
tempted to empty your purse to the poetry Of .her
begging.
-Four miles from Rome we cross the Anio, re.
posing now from its tunblings down the cascades
of Tiyol The winding streams are another charm
of the Campogna. All across it the eye teasts not
only Oh what is NEAR but on that beyond. At the
righ rites Monte CavO, the boldest of the region
once crowded by the famous temple OF Jupiter
La,ialis, ard where now sits a solitary convent
little lower. at its side, on the healed crater Of
a volcano, lies the plain OF Hanbiba's camping
army-the invincible city Ii full view. Tusculum
powdered with ruins, once the resort Of Cicero
ard HE contemporaries, OverlOoks Trascati and nc
modern villas The varyin form and ehiaroscuro
of the mountains toward IiyoIi have an endless
charm. Now rising in sweeping curves, like huge
waves Of blue aud green, now IN br-tllRg clusters
of dashed.up SUBMITS, glistening with rocks and
dots Of villages, they JOIN in q chameleon range
grey, pink, blue and olive by turns, wantOnl!
catching the floating clouds and sprinkliDg them
selves with their mist and down and shad0wG
bringing up the mountain sides are groves OF
olives ard below, the pines and expresses, whose
horizontal and perpendicular lines form 80 striking
q feature in Roman landscapes. But before arriv-
ing there We pass the ruins OF the Castle Arcone,
whose structure places it in the Middle Ages.
Further on lie the Lake of Tartarus, whose caIce-
'rous deposits have petred its banks and the plants
about. iessening its circumference I'LL 10 ls only 0
Email sb. ct of thick, yellow water, refectng like
a mirror the nights hey Ond. Our guide, IN AZ
tempting to secure some red berries growing
among the tbOrDy shrubs of it's desOlate shore,
commented most learnedly O0 the condition of the
place. He said that the hearth behing poicasc,
and the rather hariHg dGposen sup,fng on Il, rem.
" d,red Gngs founder rih d,ficuity." lie said it
pleased Linn to speak English, SO We INDUCED him.
Deserts Of calcerations, spotted with green,
stretched on to the Lake of Sulphur, to which our
efactOries now announced proximity We crossed
its Outlet-an artif, ia casal-holding our breatbs
for an insuppOItable odor of sulphuretted hydro
gen rises from its milky current. Near this are
the ruins Of the Baths of Agrippa, frequented by
Augustus, and afterward enlarged by the oriental
captive queen, Zenoba. We soon crossed the
Anio sesin at the Pcnte Luciano. Ali the books
and catalogues tell you of Poussins picture irem
this point; but POussD never painted all that ap
peared to US as our horses stood arrested On the
bridge tie sparkling stream leuestb, and 10
frcnt the tomb of Plautus, smaller than that a
Cecilia Metella but circular, and, like it, crowned
with baitements Of the civil vars On to the
mountains stretched the gardens Of Adrians
Villa, where ruins, arches and walls, pines, pale
olives and dark cy presses, blended with the new
Spring. green and the white aud almond bossemog
trees. The mountain background hckersd from
gray and olive to blue; the sky had deeP-ned II
hue since the morning. 10 Was great heroic pic
ture when Poussin might treat. AS we advanced
the way beeuiled us. A clear brook rippled at
our SIDE. Lizards scampered along the walls,
liciIg in the shade of Towering vines that 1uttered
from their tops. Beggar-children chased US again,
Offering vioets. Tiyo lay up in the lap of the
mountain holding up its church-towers, and the
arches OF Mecanas's Villa. The guide pointed ui
to TIE Greek and Jesuit colleges that stood out
from tie Olive.e groves. We pass the shrine of
saint-a painted niche grown over with vines,
where hopg lamp, picture and cup of oil.
I he driver raises his hat as he passes. The tan
gled hedees the tattered Children the grear, mild
olive clothed mountains, toe ruins, OvergrowB
with ivy and whey Yards, aud the all embracing sky,
pictured the past and present, the divine aud hu'
man as We rarely SET them.