The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1856-09-04

and lift up the hair-evidently thinking me ex-
tremely Questionable in head-gear or rather
in the want of it. From this childlike inuuis-
| tiveness L was glad to turn to the pleasant face
of native child, a sweet, though untaught girl.
who brought me violets and hyacinths from her
garden, with as ready and smiling goodwill as
my little pupils of last year could have done.
l could but sigh that she must grow up to be
such being as the wives and mothers about
her-ignorant degraded, beaten at the will
of despotic lord and master, living only for
gossip aad superstition.
In excellent season the next morning, our
horses were elm bng the precipitous right bank
of the river Iris. We had entered the kingdom
of Pontus, with thought of old King Mithri-
dates, and of school-days,) and found our way
but a succession of ascent and descent, along
a path scarcely wide enough for safe treadiug
between a precipice above and precipice
below. A misstep would have been instant
death; vet there was something intensely excl
ting in this new way of travelling and in the
fresh glimpses that successfully flashed upon
us, as each higher point was gained. Ny friend
narrowly escaped fall, with bis Arsb steed,
through a mountain bridge of boughs; but a
a stronger arm than ours upheld him, and
guided us safely over all the dangers of the
| way.
Our cavalcade was picturesque enough, as it
was winding along these defles. Several stran-
gers had joined it for their own safety, as rob-
bers are not thing yet out of date in Turkey
and it now numbered eight. Some were Turks,
some Circassians, and one Armenian; but all
arrayed in the flowing robes and brilliant Jez
of the country; to which, superadded an en-
broidered jacket, with long, floating sleeves.
Our own costume, convenient as it was, would
hardly have passed current on Pennsylvania
avenue. The long riding dress prescribed by
American fashion is an article most unsafe on
such journey, not only on account of the
mountainous roads, but of the untrimmed
bushes, which are armed with thousand hid
den fangs to catch the unwary. We are good
deal nearer the site of Eden than you, and the
curse, "Thorns and thistles shall the ground
bring forth unto thee" seems to reign here
with ten-fold force.
On the eve of this second day, after winding
higher and higher, we dismounted at the noun
tain hamlet of Hivajik, little quince,) about
thirty.fve miles from the Black Sea, but afford
ing fine view of its waters. Like all travel
lers in this land, we carried our own bedding,
bread, and provender, and were dependent on
the hospitality of strangers only for shelter and
a few simple articles. Along the regularly
travelled routes are set khans. especially for
this purpose but as our road furnished no such
accommodation, we were obliged each night
to hire some room of Turkish hut To have
it swept was the most important item after
which, we spread orr camp-bedsteads to serve
as sofas, and rested thankfully from the days
fatigne and heat In the morning, early, we
again took up our winding way" Our noon
time halt was always pleasant under the shade
of some spreading tree, close to the rivers
bank, or DIETER still) to some one of the thou
sand beaded rivulets, dancing down from the
| 10
sienally, when the way grew too steep, or the
feet too much cramped, we would dismount
and walk for miles along the shady side of some
hiil-range, under the arches of whispering pine
boughs- often stopping to gather our hands
full of violets and wild polyanthus. Our little
Turkish guide, unlike his countrymen in gen
eral, was a lover of flowers and of fine scenery
and often surprised me by bringing a wild
boquet, or by catching my bride, to point out
some richer glimpse in the everchanging pan
Drama about u.s.
This young guide, (Sali by name, bgt for his
language and dress, might have been taken 70,
? fine specimen of a Western backwoodsman
He was a mounteineer, short and slight II
frame, but strong in limb az on antelope ano
keen of eye as hawk. In his full, blue troy
sers brown jacket embroidered with white
gun and powder-pouch slung across his shout
ders crimson girdle, the receptacle OF two
horse-pistols and loaf of bread; and a gay
Powered head kerchief overlapping all-he was
the most picturesque element of our picturesque
party. Would that he were in Iowa instead Of
Turkey. or that Turkey offered to the enterpri
sing among her young sons any career worthy
to call out the aspirations and enterprise OF g
mani
While descending into one of these narrow
ravines, we barely escaped danger of which
we were happily ignorant for weeks. Three
Koordish robbers, having reconnoitered oul
party from behind an over-hanging rock, hello
a consultation. The natives they did not fear
and-were they but sure of dispatching the
"chelibi" at the first shot-they raised their guns
at the thought Yet these Franks (suggesteC
one) gre dangerous to NEEDLE with. He has
/ holsters, too, to his saddle, with-who knows
what within them2 While cowsrdice and law
lessness were thus conflicting, we passed on, II
pnthinking security. guarded by the Power thai
rules the hearts and hands of men.
One afternoon, along more than usually
rugged ascent, we were hailed by some peas
ants, who told US it was in vain to attempt cross
ing the mountain top before us--the deep snow
had not yet been trodden by hoof or foot
Credulous and disheartened, our men checked
5 their horses, murmured, and were for turning
! back in a body. To do this, would have beer
to retrace two days tedious jOurneyings, and
, perhaps, after all, find no better track. So the
, chelibi" spurred bis good steed, and, with
an energetic appeal to the towards, dashed or
before them. They most reluctantly followed
, At first, the snow lay in patches, but it grew
/ deeper and deeper, and soon our horses were
indeed forced to struggle for their footing. II
seemed at times impossible to advance or te
\ retreat. BIT after nearly two hours of slump
ing and founderlng, our poor horses-panting
trembling, and heeked with foah--negred the
last peak of the ridge-sll, but one! Sail was
the owner Of horse that might have rivalleG
iSOsinante for leanness. The feshless crea
ture, though relieved of its light load, faltered
s here. 1t was blsd and left behind, mentally
, given over by all but Sal who, with deter
. mined though melancholy face, stood by its side
e urging it now and then by blows, gestures, and
cries, to, make a fresh feeble effort.
"Voila Herek!" at last shoute, our leader
!, waving his whip alof. In a moment we hac
r mounted the summit. What contrast Un
# broken snow-banks beneath and behind US
!, before US far-reaching valley unspotted by 9
d veshge OF winters reign, through the midst o
: which stretched the plain of Herek, green ane
: smooth as an English lawn, winding like {
= rich ribbon for miles among the hills. With
e deep-drawl breath of thankfuness we urged
i onward our horses, sud soon climbed into tn,
e rock -perched hamlet of deukysr, lheaven
e place) "May its name prove good omen fo
T. our nights restl" said /, as we dismountet
n among the tumbling- down Lighthouses, who's,
e roofs were kept on by large stones in place O
nails. g doubt it." said my companion, will
a shake Of the head, as he left me to sit upol
j. a shaded log, while he gent forward to nego
8 tate for lodgings. He came back, after fey
4 | Minutes "They refuse to give us shelter" h