The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1856-07-21

chicken, and coffee that gives you the befors
y,u taste II The Pasha, am confident, has order
lotser,e that most Of the vans have mules in thu
shat and horses on the lead; that both mule.
and horses are shod with q round shOe leaving only
an open air hole in the centre that they are tied By
the feet 10 long rope in front OF the stables, which
are comfortable buildings; that the wheels of thu
vehicles are far apart, and that semophoric tee
graph post Is az each station But along the Who'll,
range q desert Ia naught but dry yellow sand anC
gravel as lar a. the eye reach. Part OF the
is aeadsmized, but most OF it is open and exposed
Ii the overland journey is tedious and void OF
toit in carriages, what must it have been when you
had to Cross On camels? 1t is dreary, desOlatt
miserable scrub, ana now and then bush thistle
but nothing green nothing instinct with hfe-nol
tyen rocks to vary the scene-nau ht but everast
ing sea OF sand kand On every sidemountains of il
III tie dsfance but plains near at hand for our track
1t can I he called r0au-es directly through the
valley The artistic painting Of the Dying Camel
WHO Wal II Ivy !-hequehtly came up before me az
Jaw The deca! ing Cal aecs OF the faithful quadru
ed scattered along the desert in all stages OF decay
hut he hoafse voiced desert birds are ever sriekng
near, Keeping dkcodaLt time with the jackall's
quick, sharp yell, ana when hie has departed they
'onm.n'e then -cliiar, neal, gluttenizing in their
eleedii,ss TIL safety makes them disgorge, only to
Lhu1nize again. The shril wall of those carrlon
tIrds ard tie fierce, whstliDg, ghostlike noise of
lie desert Wind is the morning and evening music OF
lie .sIab, seemingly an eternal requiem. To him,
u 'heer- his lonely journey-to me it sounded as
fIGn eepulchie
have spoken disparagingly OF the mode Of
Transit and our hotel accommodations; but, to
reject what must they have Deen only thirty
years agoi Before the English government
and English money and nglish enterprise taught
the Pasha some of the comforts OF civilized life
hotels in AN inhosplaUle desert-oases planted
by the western Company III the heart OF des0lation
before. no water, no resting place, No shelter, no
lot rishn.ebt rave what You carried--nu human
he'll Say IN tai
driver on lie nueie.r To relieve you III distress, and
10 piospect o. reaching your journeys end for days
aid weeks, instead VI hours as now. Verify the
change is worthy OF contemplation. The Cape
route was long journey, the camel motion Was
too slow when the shorter one across the desert
was fIst established. England saw her Indian EN-
piIe; Indian servants waited more comfort aud
despatch and England said TO Egypt, LET there be
better arrangements made aud they were made.
But weuge only introduced; ateegraphic wire
has been oIderei railroad Is under way and shortly
tie whistiiDg OF Western locomotive viii startle
the Beoouin from his sleep on his sandy pillow, and
the rafting of railway rain across tae bleacned
skeletons of the ass, the mule and the camel will
prove the sweetest of all sounds to those poor beasts
Of burden whose abors have been greatly lessened
by the snius and the ingenuity Of civilized man.
Towards the close OF our journey several caravans
of Arabs and natives passed US, their camels loaded
with every possible kind I package. At Alden
saw o ship loaded down like North Atlantic emf
grant packet, with pilgrims bound to Mecca, but
track were mostly for the purposes Of commerce
For miles before we reached the last station we saw
What we supposed lake OF dark blue water, shaded
by trees which were reflected from below, but the
distance did not lessen-the deception was per Get.
No wonder that Nspoleon's army began to show
signs Of mutiny and INSTRUMENTATION, for hopes
iaised TO be thwarted maktth the heart sick. IL is
remarkable sight TO witness the action OF the suns
rays upon q sea Of sand; the panoramic magic
OF the lantern falls into pittu insignifance when
compaIed to che mirage OF the Egyptian desert
Thireen stages had ended, when a shout from the
leading carriage announced the appearance Of Cairo
bend discovered to at the left Of the city the won
der Of the world-the pyramids Of Egypt.
CAIso. EGYrT, April 3, ls56,l
AT SHEPHERDS HOTEL. \
Il Cairo Hoei and its Charges Ramble
Mroughths City--Royai Tragedies-Hosc to Look
al Acknowledgement in the City-Eniry
10 the SerGgho.
Shepherds Hotel, believe, is the only decent one
IN Cairo where you have to pay New York prices
for Oregon comforts The proprietor has been ca
teIipg lor the travelling public some fifteen years.
but his ideas oflving do not to profit by The ex
peIiepce. The house is crowded-Dany Of our In
dian passengers who were in the last carriage have
been shut out, and had 10 make the most OF the
Oriental, where they sleep, AMI pay for food-which
they come over and take with us. After getting
once over the desert they object to being starved Ina
populouE city. Lord Dalhousie aud Lady Susan
Ramsay got in before US; and as the Governor Gene
raj is the guest OF Said Pashs while passing through
Egypt his Excellency engaged eight rooms for lin
at Shepherds, and the state carriage with pon2ous
escort awaits tue orders Of the late head OF the In
dian empire.
On reference to the register. find the flags o.
the REF pectye boat up the Nile this season. Ame-
ricans, Germans. English and French have mace II p
their parties. and have noted down their tours
Their to the first second cataract. The boats flag
as well as the national one is usually painted in the
book over the names Of the party For the benefit OF
their friends. am told hat there are more Amcr
cans up the Nile this season than any other IA.
ton. Yesterday tramped through tue city, our
dragoman taking us inso cathedrdls and mosques,
through narrow patbs-for there are no streets III
tie East-into dirty bazaars, and down deep int
the gretehedness OF Oriental life. Several times We
passed funerals and marriages. both u which
clowuish.- lasghable-- ahsnrd--musc that hath no
sweetness wedding garments as unceln A. those
Who wear them-long processons---al IGean AMI
meaningless. Really, sn Egyptian marriage ap-
pears Tue NtFN acme Vi III aA2 tut tAAftdA -
no better while the circumcising the children seems
the most ridiculogs o. al, ] saw one boy pershoI
upon en- Arab horse, done up IN tinseed robes, with
crown and bells, followed by train Of about fifty
~ bis circumcised and circumcsing friends and Ca
mily. No romances would ever be written In kgypt
after the writers had lived short time in it, capt
tai. The Orient sounds magnihcently-it Is a mel.
hfiuous word, done up in imaginative grsndeur-5at
one day will answer Tor Cairo.
Some ~ the mosques must have coat millions o..
money; that known the Citadel or The tomb of
Mehenet ALI IL considered the grdnde-t in the
East: IL il IN reality wonderful structure, built of
msrtle, granite, and freest me, and much Of ~
ornamental marble work has been imported from
France. Before entering we had to take of our
boots end encase feet In slippers in accordance
with Eastern etiquette. The same egOtism that
stimulated the early Egyptians, thousands Of years
ago 10 mark the burial places OF their kings by
t,nhetones more wonderful than anything 10 his
tory has teen handed down through 20 many gene
nations 10 the sons Of the founder o the present
dynasty a. may ne evlnced by tue tomb Of Mehemet
Az Just Ia the rear VI this costly temple you are
slown the tomb Of the Mameukps 20 whom this same