Raftsman's journal. [volume] (Clearfield, Pa.) 1854-1948, 1856-04-30

else does the traveller find SO many surviving
monuments of Sarenic civilization and such
! interesting exhibitions of Oriental life. I'm
| like Constantinople, Cairo occupies no middle
| ground between East and VESTS in no tram
sition state of standardization Here find
the Asiatic character uncorrupted by contact
with politer people and the fierce fanatacism
of the Mohammedan faith unsubdued by the
pretensions of rival religions. Every thing |
see surprises me by its originality, or recalls
some recollection of the romantic reading of
my youth. The houses, with arabesque front,
projecting gable, and latticed window; the ba-
zaars, rich in gems, silks, and precious per-
fumes; mosque and minaret of the pure Sar-
acenic style; turbaned men and veiled women
these some of the features which impart
to Cairo its peculiar interest.
An avenue of sycamore and acacia of profuse
foliage and impenctrablc shade conducts from
the gate of the city to the palace of the Shoo-
bra Gardens. The road is perfectly smooth,
runs along the bank of the Nile distance of
three miles, and terminates in spot where the
caprlcIous extravaganza of Oriental luxury has
wrought its most fantastic wonders. The Shoo-
bra Garden is more like haunt of fairies than
the resort of men. In the shade of orange
groves, the murmur of fountains, the fragrance
of flowers, and the golden glitter of every va
riety of fruit, the Inauguration realizes its vi
sions of terrestrial paradise. The walks con-
verge to common centre, where graceful
kiosk stands, but its modest beauty is eclipsed
by the splendor of the Pasha's palace. Here
a profusion of pearl, silk, and porphyry, floors
richly inlaid, walls and windows Enthusiastically
painted, baths of purest alabaster, Persian car
pets of incredible cost, and divans of crimson
velvet, present gorgeous picture Of barbaric |
pomp and luxury. The citadel is to me the |
most interesting spot in Cairo rather for the |
magnificent view it commands than because Of !
its proximity -'---r-- -, r.
scane of the massacre OF the MameiuN'S' Inv
10III % vi Ine haIipS,'' the runs of Heliopo- |
lis, and back ground of boundless desert are |
visible to the east to the south the quarries |
and castles of Mount Mussatem and the inter
jaccnt plains; to the west the aqueduct, the |
ruins of old Cairo, the Nile. and the lovely is
land of Rhoda, the village of Gizeh, the Pyra-
mids and far beyond all the limitless sweep Of
the Lybian sands to the north the green fields |
of the distant Delta below the city of Cairo, t
street, of palace and hovel, of mosque and
minaret.
The Pyramids are situated on the border of |
the Lybian desert, mornings ride from Cal |
no. We crossed the river just above the island |
Rhoda, where saw the Nileomete-, and where |
tradition afirms Moses was discovered in the |
buirushes. We landed at the filthy village Gil |
Zeh, where hens never set and chickens are |
hatched by artificial heat. A devious path ira
verses fertile fields of corn and wheat, and |
leads us to the object of our journey. At first |
sight the Pyramids suggest the idea of vain
attempt to rival the mountain monuments of
nature, and they impress the bcholder with
conviction OF mans foolish ambition and mis-
cradle impotence.
When, however, we stand under the shadow
of their stupendous form and see their summit
resting among the clouds when we reflect on
their remote antiquity and dmysterious purpose; |
when we recall the great events of which they |
have been the silent witness, and recollect the |
heroes of history who, from Alexander to Ma
poleon, have mused in their presence and been
inspired by their grandeur; when we contrast
their immutable duration with the vicissitudes |
of human fortune, think how, having survived
the fall of empires and the doom of dynasties,
they seem to struggle successfully even with |
destiny itself; when we extend our view for
ward into futurity, and foresee the countless
ages they must endure after the men and things |
of the present day have perished from exis-
tence, perhaps from memory, then they impose
upon the Imagination with an irresistible pow
&c, nd Subli limit lati
them in this mood, was impressed as certain
ly no monument of man ever impressed me |
before.
Except in the direction of the Mussaltem |
Mountains, the view from the Pyramid of Che |
ops embraces nearly the entire extent of E
gypt. You trace the valley of the Nile through
out its course, and appreciate its almost fabu- !
lous fertility by contrast with the barren sands
around it. The figure (and it is no fanciful |
conceit) of line of dark green velvet drawn |
across a golden ground will convey to your |
mind an image of the aspect of the country |
The colors did not mingle by insensible grada-
tion, but are divided by deep and distinct
landmark. A single step measures the DIS
tance between a soil of inexhaustible fertility
and bleak and boundless waste OF desert
After the fatigue of our ride lunch of mel |
ON and fruit refreshed us tor the survey of the |
interior chambers of the Pyramids They are
approached through narrow and intricate pas
sage, which the adventurous stranger pursues
by the light OF torch and the aid of an Arab |
guide. The dark caverns have long since been
despoiled OF their illustricus dead, and are |