The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1856-09-19
OPENING DAY IN NEW YORK.
Inauguration Of the Fall Fashsoa..


Yesterday was opeuing Day, and abe weather
all that could be desired the fair yoares OF fashion
from psce to place, specting, cucsng and comparing
everything submitted 10 their Judgment Nothing
aroases the interest and curiosity Of LADIES the ad
vent Of new fashion, for though she adveas OF
singer g all very well, is nothng compared with il.
This VIII account for the susaiaed enthusiasm with
which they crowd the exhibition and bsck up the
streets one opening day after another the with
which they look forward to It, and tie cegb, with which
they bail its arrival This year they had so long to
wait br the fall season commenced slrer thaa usual
attributable In a great measure, to the Number
Of visiters in our midst These helped 10 swell
the asy and fashonaby dressed throrg that on
such occasions imparts an animated holiday
look to our great business thororghfare. Bus yes
terdsy Broadway was In state OF block ade for every
lady wore hoop ard it impossible for any one ig.
norant u the mysteries of those vicious circles to
edge hs or her way through them In fact the ladies
now resemble Mrs. Rimber, and III quite excursion
towak round them" Speaking Of heops, nothing proves
ecuclusvey the omnipo,ence Of fashlen the
alacrty with which all classes from the lady ~ the
kitchen maid, adopted this most ungraceful siye-ths
worn oct folly of departed century Where now are
the flowing lines the sorenng folds the wavy alang
grace the and Dabilty OF moon that constituted
our Old fashioned ideas Of grace and beauty? Where
the
Waves deserving note
In the ismpesuous pGtieoatr
The dress OF fashionable lady now has about much
mobility as that OF wooden image. II that rs grace,
then we have attained the perfection OF it.
Yesterday however, augured well for the faturc for
The Dght summer fabrics which the hoop Wes is ex
isteace have disappeared from windows in their
place appear heavy brocaded silks, rich velvets and
glancing MORE antiques.
The following establishments "opened" yesterday and
he's thrOup tha tort tha, ,iav hu
host Of visiters:-
BRoADwAY.-W. Smous Mrs. Simmonds, Nine. Har
rs Son, Mrs. Smythe, W. Jackson, Mrs. Richards
Madame de vos, Misses Atkinson 4 Malher Miss Alice
Morgan, Madame Malherbe, Madame Parry, w. Browne
GREAT JONES sTRxxr-Madame FerrerO
BoNp sTRExr.-Miss f. N. Hubbard.
CANAL sTRyEr-Mrs. DAWSON, Mrs. Rawlings, Miss
Gu ne, Benson and Wilson.
CHAMBERS sTREII.-Walker and Early.
CATHERINE sTKBEr-Bell.
DIVISION STREET Mrs G.. Schlegel.
BowERy.-Miss n Dayton, L. P. Tbbals
sixth nAyENrx.-AcCormack ana Simpson.
THIRD AvENUE.-Ars. Bates.
BRoonE sTREET.- Miss Mullen.
BONSETs.
There s variety in the form or bonnets for the
coming than usual but 1t Ia confined wholly to the
crown. The fronts are invariably small and rccedng
slightly pointed at the centre and haring the sdes
unlike the old fashioned idea of bonnet as can well
be conceived. The capes full and pointed but SO
deep as those of last season profusey trimmed
Indeed, this remark may be applied to the body OF the
hat for though still more eaboratey ted than
simplicity or good taste would warrant II compares IA
vorably, in this respect, with the outgoing fashion. A
move has been made IN the right direction which may
probably brrg US back by easy stages to first principles
Then bonnet will be bonnet and head dress, be.
coming and elegant ia true but bearing trace Of
and many such nondescrpis that words can convey
very feeble nea Of their whimsical originality Mixed
the fall, and lace aud velvet for the winter.
The full ruche is still in favor for front trim
ming, and feathers, flowers and birds of Paradise for
the outside Fruit has gone out with the oi
all the eifs of Pomona the grape alone fingers. Escn
season however, has it, appropriate adjournment aud
III TACT not lost sight tf by modises refined tsss
flancc at the trimmings OF hat will st indicate
The season for which II is intended. summer fruits
delicate spring blossoms would be out OF place and
consequently have instead gorgeous sutumna 10 wers
and exquisite exocs. The favorito coors brown and
beaver but all shades are worn and every complexion
from the delicate blonde TO the glowing brunette, can
ind the hue that becomes II bert We shall endeayor
describe few bats that a acted most attention though
exceedingly difficult TO make q selection from the
confused OF lovely forms that every where the
view-some winning admiration by their quiet beauty.
others challenging attention by their odd bat dnoue
style. Conspicuous among the latter the " Cha.
peau CATALAN formed Of lace barred with blue satin.
The crown ID oval, and formed OF . thick cord.
ing OF blue satin rolling round centre. To the
are attached two fss OF the delicate blonde lace
which enectualy conceal every vsstge OF the bonnet
shape, and looks Ike cap flung with happy careless
the back Of the head. Around the front runs
blue ostrich feather, which, dropping considerably i'm
parts graceful funess 10 the Sides Inside trimmings
rche, and on side bunch OF Another opera
or carriage bat more In accordance with the prevailing
mode, and more beautiful though ess striking than the
preceding was exhibited at the samc estabishmen The
material was pink uncut velvet and trimmed with
bione and rare nd elegant fringe made Of marabou
feathers. IL is light as foam soft MIST and forms
welcome addition 10 our sto,k Of trimmings Its misty
appearance Ia further heightened by the innumcrAble
specks that people IL, like notes In a sunbeam-hose
spccks being The astenngs knots necessary make
the fringe the required length. II Is most expensive
trimming; and In these little knots and the amount
OF labor hcy involve will be found the cau,e The "CAa
Teau Fyysro" which takes It's from Of rst
cam msa. Is very pretty Paris hat simply elegant
straw sewed with black silk, great regard being paid
the regularity Of the stitches Round tho edges OF the
crown the cape and the roIt band OF open work
two three inches wide, formed by the black velvet
and straw interacing damondwse. From the edge
Of the ront openwork or straw insertion depends bor
der OF Cbany lace reaching almost to the side crown
and the CLEANING Of the peary through the
parent cover preserves the uniformity Of the design
Trimming, crimson velvet flowers sChopcdu Serton.'-
This one OF the most beautiful and difngu. hats that
grace this opening Two half handkerchies Of black vel
vet trimmed with chain fringe Of buges Hasten
cd TO the front OF the hat and dvergng slope down tbs
eide crown The space between is filed by putting OF
green velvet with plain piece running down the centre,
from which falls on either side border Of Chansiy
lace. In the hack this forms second cape, while
ron, esusn, point and hung back upon the crown
with broad border Of black velvet and ending in TALL
OF Chaniy lace The face trimming side velvet
flowers with ISLANDERS made OF bugles that glanced and
sparked amid the green and crimson petals tha,
rounded them and the other side black and green
ostrich feather Across the front Of the hat falls the
chanwork fringe OF bueles from which Il derives It's
Another strikpgy beautiful hat formed Of black
velvet and chenille straw must not omit 10 mention.
The straw, which s made in Switzerland s in selfa
curiosity, resembling black plaid with tus OF crimson
ard black velvet protrudings The n made of
plated velvet and straw and the double cape trimmed
with the same materials. On each side black and
red feather those on one SIDE bending the cape,
and those the other dropping over the edge
OF the bonnet and bending with the coral sprays when
form the very elegant and peculiar 'front.' trimmings of
this bat. There some very elegant hats made %
lefhorn exhibition, trimmed with ostrich feathers
ard blonde while others are ornamented with bunches
OF lopg grass and trailing solid flowers reminding 'w
less OF the coming than the past We have
very handsomsh ha, made Of royal purple satin banded
with black vevef edged with blonde the front thin and
transparent and the OF chequered satin and vel.
vet The outside trimming was purple feather tipped
with black and the inside bunch Of starry bios Of
the same rich hue.
HEAD DRESSES.
There 10 nothing new In the way OF head dresses but
there very pretty combinations the old STYLE
Flowers Of all shapes and Sizes mixed with velvet Or
ribbon maintain their hold public favor do those
made of black velvet embroidered with straw But for