The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1856-09-11
BY J. N. SANDERSON.
Read in Century" Journal, May 3, 1855.


Read in Century, Journal, May g. 1855.
An ardent admirer, from my earliest hobble-
dihoyhood, of that sparkling cup which cheers,
and, regret to add, sometimes inebriates, it
was with more than ordinary qualification and
pleasure received and accepted an invitation,
from the principal of well-known firm in the
cha~Pasne wine trade. to visit the city of
Rheims, and post myself up in the secrets OF
day, early in the month of June in the year of
grace 1866, l bestowed myself and my wardrobe
on the cars of the "Chemin de fer de Stras
bourg," and in due course reached my destina-
ton, was welcomed by my friend, and comfort
ably installed in my lodgings. After devoting
the usual time to proper and respectful exam
ination of the town, its cathedral, its prone
nades, its monuments, and its inhabitants,
turned my attention to the principal object of
my trip, and, after a careful investigation, OBJ
tanned the information herein set forth, which
/ trust may be as interesting to you in the hear
ing, as it was agreeable to me in the collecting.
Champagne wine, although Individually fac
titious article, holds, in the estimation of wine
drinkers, physicians, and connoisseurs, high
place in the catalogue of beverages-its spark
ling qualities and agreeable sweetness attract
ing the first, its diuretic and tonic properties
rendering it valuable to the second, and its del
icate favor, delightful aroma, and refreshing
bouquet, endearing it to the third. But from
the fact of its being manufactured wine, there
has been an attempt to throw around 1t man
tie of mystery which have never, in my mind,
been able to penetrate satisfactorily, either by
reading the numerous books written on the
subject, or by conversing with intelligent per-
sons from the immediate locality. This mystery
has been carefully fostered by persons interest
ed in the manufacture or sale of the ARTICLE,
who, fearing the truth might possibly lessen
the demand, when asked as to the nodus ope-
randi, have generally either fatty denied the
addition of sugar and brandy, or, if admitting
1t, asserted thst it was only done occasionally,
when, in consequence Of cold or wet season,
the produce of any particular vintage did not
possess sufficient saccharine matter or body;
but on no account would they acknowledge this
addition to be matter of rule, and in fact ne
cessity. This version has been handed down
from one author to the other, until finally it
has grown into belief; and as every other
detail of the mode Of manufacturing this wine
has been clearly described by almost every
writer on the subject, the only originality can
claim for my paper Is the dissipation, in some
degree, of this mystery, and the veriGcation of
another point, which, until this moment, has
been denied, in some cases most emphatically,
namely: that the produce of different localities
sfs intermixed. To enable me, however, to do
this understsndingly, it will bs aecesssry to
travel lightly over the same ground as my pred.
ecessors, trusting, also, that among my hear
ers there may be some not as learned in the
lore F" of Yine-making as others.
The vineyards of Champagne cover an ex-
panse of territory of about thirty miles in length
and two miles in breadth, thickly interpreted
with gentle elevations and shallow streams, the
river Marine, which passes through its entire
length, being the exception. The vine gene
rally employed is called the T" Pineau," of which
there are two varieties, the black and the white,
the former, however, being the fayorite. The
grapes known as the Burgundy Grape" are
Of rich, deep purple color, and in size resem-
BILE our chicken grapes. The soil in which they
are planted is formed of a calcareous loan,
strongly irpregnated with lime, and thickly in.
crusted with small stones. The location most
sought after is the side of hill, having south
ern or southwestern exposure, Of which the
midway portion is preferred, the top and bottom
being most liable 10 ffosts and dallpness The
vines are planted quite close together, and ore
but sparingly manured. After every vintage,
they are cut down close to the ground, leaving
but three or four inches so as to preserve the
eyes; the stump is then buried, and on the fol-
lowing year makes its appearance three or four
inches higher up the hill; and on the new
wood, which springs up, is produced the grape;
some roots are known to be forty feet in lscgtia,
and few have reached the respectable age of
two hundred years. The plant must be four
years old before it will yield fruit; at six years
it has attained its maturity; and at one hun
dred years will still produce good merchantable
grapes. Every third year new vines are plant
ed at the bottom of the hill, to replace those
promoted BY time and growth. A French vine
yard possesses but slender claims to the pictuf-
esque. At the period Of my visit, the vines
were about eighteen inches high, and conss-
quently nothing met the eye but the thin sticks
planted near each root, to which they are at.