Raftsman's journal. [volume] (Clearfield, Pa.) 1854-1948, 1856-04-30

else does the traveller find so many surviving |
monuments of Sarenic civilization and such /
interesting exhibitions of Oriental life. In |
like Constantinople, Cairo occupies no middle |
ground between East and Vests in no tram
stion state of standardization. Here find |
the Asiatic character uncorrupted by contact |
with politer people and the fierce fanatacism
of the Mohammedan faith unsubdued by the
pretensions of rival religions. Every thing l
see surprises me by its originality, or recalls
some recollection of the romantic reading OF
my youth. The houses, with arabesque front,
projecting gable, and latticed window; the ba-
zaars, rich in gems, silks, and precious per-
fumes; mosque and minaret of the pure Sar-
acenic style; turbaned men and yelled women
these are some of the features which impart
to Cairo its peculiar interest.
An avenue of sycamore and acacia of profuse
foliage and impenetrable shade conducts from
the gate of the city to the palace of the Shoo-
bra Gardens. The road is perfectly smooth,
runs along the bank of the Nile distance OF
three miles, and terminates in spot where the
capricious extravaganza of Oriental luxury has
wrought its most fantastic wonders. The Shoo-
bra Garden is more like haunt of fairies than
the resort of men. In the shade of orange
groves, the murmur of fountains, the fragrance
of flowers, and the golden glitter of every va
rety of fruit, the inauguration realizes its vi
sions of terrestrial paradise. The walks con-
verge to common centre, where graceful
kiosk stands, but its modest beauty is eclipsed
by the splendor of the Pasha's palace. Here
a profusion of pearl, silk, and porphyry, floors
richly inlad, walls and windows Enthusiastically
painted, baths of purest alabaster, Persian car
pets of incredible cost, and divans of crimson
velvet, present gorgeous picture of barbaric
pomp and luxury. The citadel is to me the
most interesting spot in Cairo, rather for the
| magnificent view it commands than because of
its proximity to ''Joseph's Well' or as the
scene of the massacre of the Mamelukcs. The
| sstombs of the kalips,'' the ruins Of Heliopo-
lis, and background of boundess desert
visible to the cast; to the south the quarries
and castles of Mount Mussaltcm and the inter
jaccnt plains to the west the aqueduct, the
ruins of old Cairo, the Nile. and the lovely is
land of Rhoda, the village of Gizch, the Pyra-
n,ids, and far beyond all the limitless sweep of
the Lybian sands to the north the green fields
in all the variety of dark grove and intricate
street, of palace and hovel, of mosque and
minaret. t-fsz
The Pyramids are situated on the border of
the Lybian desert, mornings ride from Cal
70. We crossed the river just above the island
Rhoda, where saw the Nileometer, and where
tradition affirms Moses was discovered in the
buirushes. We landed at the filthy village Gil
zeh, where hens never set and chickens are
hatched by artificial heat. A devious path tra-
verses fertile fields of corn and wheat, and
leads us to the object of our journey. At first
sight the Pyramids suggest the idea of vain
attempt to rival the mountain monuments of
nature, and they impress the beholder with
conviction of mans foolish ambition and mis-
cradle impotence.
When, however, we stand under the shadow
of their stupendous form and see their summit
resting among the clouds; when we reflect on
their remote antiquity and my sterious purpose:
when we recall the great events of which they
have been the silent witness, and recollect the
| heroes OF history who, from Alexander to Ma
| poleon, have mused in their presence and been
inspired by their grandeur; when we contrast
their imrnutable duration with the vicissitudes
of human fortune, think how, having survived
the fall Of empires and the doom of dynasties
they seen to struggle successfully even with
destiny Itself; when we extend our view for
ward into futurity, and foresee the countless
ages they must endure after the men and things
of the present day have perished from exis
tenee, perhaps from memory, then they impose
upon theimagination with an irresistible pow
er Of pathos and sublimity. Contemplating
then in this mood, I was impressed as certain
ly n, monument of man ever impressed me
| befote
Except in the direction of the Mussaltem
Mountains, the view from the Pyramid of Che |
ops embraces nearly the entire extent of E.
gypt, You trace the valley of the Nile through |
out il course, and appreciate its almost fabu-
lous trtilitv by contrast with the barren sands
arounl it. The figure (and it is no fanciful
conceD of a line of dark green velvet drawn
acrosa golden ground will convey to your
mindsn image of the aspect of the country.
The 9lors did not mingle by insensiblc grada-
tion, ht are divided by deep and distinct
Landmark. A single step measures the dis
tancePetween soil of inexhaustible fertility
and aIleak and boundless waste of desert.
Afty the fatigue of our ride lunch of mel
on andfruit refreshed US tor the survey of the
interie chambers of the Pyramids. They are
approached through narrow and intricate pas
sage, Hlich tho adventurous stranger pursues
by the ight OF a torch and the aid of an Arab
guide The dark caverns have long since been
despoifd of their illustrious dead, and arc