The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1856-09-04
LETTER FROM MARY IRVING.

TOCAT, July l, 1856.
To tie Editor ofthe National Era:
Lest you should fancy that one of your CORES,
pOndents has been lost to you and to her coun-
try in the wids of Asia Minor, sit down to
talk to you and to the Era once more, from
this far away city.
Though have been passing through strange
and varied scenes and experiences during these
past winter months, my mind has often wan
dered back to those Of last year, spent in the
light of your home. And Washington-gay,
busy, spirit-stirring Washington-whata con-
trast to this uninquisitive city of Turkdom,
whittier, if news come at all, it floats in the
shape of some vague rumor, Ga often proved
false as verified. l think if you could be drop
ped from your editorial chair into this nook of
repose for a few weeks, you would hardly know
YOURSELF. 1t would give better " change' of
scene," if not change of air, than trip to Sar
atoga or the Flume House.
But you, or the children, may like to hear
something Of travel in Turkey, to compare it
with your own oft-recurring experiences Of
steamboat and railway locomotion. So l will
give you transcript of my overland journey
from Samsun to this city. That seaport-one
Of the few, as you are aware, upon the southern
shore of the Black Sea-was reached after a
most unsatisfactory long voyage on an Austri-
an steamer. Her captain, a kind and gentle
manly commander, and strict Roman Catholic,
saw fit to keep US in the Bosphorus until
GOOD Fridsy"-the third day after leaving
Standardized been safely and scrupulously
observed. Having assured himself of good
voyage by his rigorous abstinence from even
milk and eggs, he slowly raised steam, and, in
four days after, set his single passenger for
Samsun safely on shore at that place, (by
means of a small boat to be there met by
friend from the interior.
In this muddiest of cities we were compelled
10 remain for two weeks. 1t was the last of
March. and an unreasonable snow-storm had so
injured the roads, that travelling was imprac-
ticable, even to the Sultan's mail.carriers. As
the seaport boasts no hotel, and the English
COnsufs family was absent, we found food and
shelter in the house of Protestant Armenian,
whose hospitality softensd, as we'll as it could,
the tedium of our detention. Fancy two per-
SONS, of minds trained to constant activity, i'm
prisoned by rain and mud, for fortnight,
within four low walls, without book or a
newspaper, and with nothing 10 do but to sit
and look at each other! The desperation of
state at length aroused the sympathy of a
gentleman la the Consular Office, who, having
rsnsacked the welistripped shelves, found for us
three-year-old copy of Household Words"
and broken file of old edinburgh Reviews"
bearing date ia the days of al. i. L." What
comfort those OLD books were!
But our stay, like ell other things on this
earth, cane TO an end in its time. The sky,
that had been frowning for weeks smiled again
upon us; and, in spite of many warnings, we
resolved to try change of scene.
1t was a bright April morning, on which
We left behind us the mud of Samsdn, and,
mounted on strong horses, began to pick our
way at first along the seaside, in the track OF
an old Roman road. As the ordinary road,
crossing the plains, was get impossible, we had
resolved to try the mountain route TO the inte-
nor. Our path-it was only a bride path
soon dverged little from the shore, and be-
gan winding ascent, BY steps hewn in the
solld rock. As we gained the height, beauti-
ial picture burst upon us. On one side, the
blue sea, bathed in morning sunshine; on the
other, a snow-capped range of mountains, dot
led with eyergreens; and between Us and them
succession OF hills and valleys, just Bursting
sh'o the luxuriance of spring, spangled with
diamond dropping cascades.
Too soon, our good path and orr fine pros
pect we're together merged in such q road as
not even prairie-land can boast. Mud and
water, water and mud, was the agreeable vari
atlon of the remainder of our elsven hours
nde The melting Of the mountain snow had
Hooded the whole country; and what with
Struggling, wading, and fording, often In dan
gerous places, our horses we're as tired IS our
selves, when we reached the large village o.
Cheshumbah. A nights rest proved not &c
refreshing to them as to us; so we concluded
10 wait day with our Arnsepian host. While
alone in the morning, was favored With sor
oil ieVee Of village women and children, nos
OF whom had never seen the face of Franz
l<dy before. Their curiosity was unbounded
and as could comprehend and answer only 9
Jew phrases Of their language, our interview
was rather unsatisfying. One of the women
amer sundry gestures towards her own gaily
enVeioped head, ventuIed to come near mine