The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1856-07-21

three more pillars just breaking into the light OF day
after sleep of twenty centuries still az perfect
when they first felt the chisel.
The battle field OF Aboukir is too far from the
CITY Tor 10 zee the stone that marks The grave of
Abercromby out our steamer will, tomorrow, pass
within range of Nelson's victory az the battle Of the
Nile, where young Casbianca persisted in the flames
of the flag ship rather than leave his post before the
order OF the Admiral, who lay faint in death be-
low.
The city seraglio of the Pasha is as dirty and
uninviting outside as the Custo House at Dublin;
but You are obliged to take off your shoes before
you can cross the inlaid palace floor. These palaces
are emhematc OF an Egyptian dynasty they last a
them. The ornaments are chaste and costly; the
inle d floor OF pearl and ebony and rosewood and
cedar are very beautifully the polish dazzles you;
beautifully veined and variegated, both pleases
YOU; the oriental appearance of all, however gives
it the chief attraction. In accordance with Egyp-
tian custom. Said Pasha will take an extra cup Of
coffee some fine morning, and Egypt will have an
other sovereign. Mebemet Ali, however, who rose
from farmer to merchant from merchant to soldier,
from soldier to general, and from general to king,
born the year thai gave birth to his illustrous
conn GERS, wellington and Napoleon like the former
lived to ripe old age. His eldest son, lbrahim
Pasha, did not survive him, aud Abas Pasha, who
made himself notorious by keeping harem OF boys
assassinated by two of them, who had become
eaous of his favors. But Said Pasha still lives, bat
his people hate him more than ever for his love for
standing army makes his name demon in every
family injured by his press gangs.
ALEXANDRIA, April 6, 1856.
Said Pasha's improvements Raii,cay Progress in
Egypt-Bonkey Boys at the Pyramids-A Look
at the Great Wonders.
Srid Pasha deserved much credit for Building SO
good railway, and for introducing carriages more
comfortable than You generally ind; but his transit
arrangements are dsgraceful. There seems to be
l,a, <asl< n,i, -. a,tla
hands of the Superintendent, Mr. Belts an English.
man, the baggage OF the overland is received
and despatched with more s. TEN; but even there
my trunks all went wrong, atho Ugh the labels were
distinctly printed. Each camel across the desert
brings about six or seven trunks, and with cara
van Of three or four hundred camels. there needs
must be more less confusion. The baggage
train came through yesterday, and l am glad
enough to find my packages, which should have
been at Cairo. We make but one change between
the two cities, and that is where we cross the Nile
in an English steamer, which came very near sink
ing by overlooking her. The changing Of the freight
into the boat, and from the boat into the cars on
the opposite side, would make hermit groan with
laughter. Every movement shoves the cart before
the horse. Four or five strapping full grown Araos
are to be seen urging and whipping dozen little
ragged boys who tug away at the cotton bales with
all their strength, the men taking no share of the
labor. While this farce was being enacted, the head
Shek out and of the largest Of the men was
seized by the other four and thrown down on his
face, while the Sheik gave him tremendous beating
with his cane across his back. When the got up
he assisted in bastinadoing the rest of his compa-
mons, who had just been whipping him. After
wards they all went lazily to work till the old man
got out of sight, when they went to beating the boys
as before. / never more dirty shttless set of
able bodied men. We were detained nearly two
hours to allow Said Pasha to get away in his des-
patch carriage. Banners were flying, guns
ing and regiments marching all the while, to the
martial airs Of Arab musicians. During this
gay pageant there were about one hundred
and thirty Of our Indian party shivering Oh
the banks Of the Nile, consgning In our misery
the Pasha and his satellites TO any place but Alex
andia We count distance in this country by hours;
lefofe the railway, with camel or donkey, II was
three miles to the hour. Now, If you ask how far it
is TO Cairo, you are told eight hours.
The rail Il laid down through the alluvial soil that
borders the Delta and the road required but little
grading. The whole enterprise is the private pro-
perry Of the Pasha. In fact, since that start
ling edict of Mehcmet Ali, that oil Egyptian property
belonged TO the government ergo, hmself--every
enterprise, every undertaking, every improvement in
the Kingdom belongs exclusively to the reigning
dynasty. The strange doctrine OF the peasant
Prince aroused even the sleepy nature Of the Arabs
but only to feel more severely the grinding heel Of
the despots. The camels and the donkeys on our
route have become accustomed to the locomotive;
but occasionally those from far inland sheer OF at
tearing pace over bitches and through grain fields,
much to the disgust of their driver who has lost all
control over bis frightened brutes. Afer our de-
parture from the chef Oriental city, our ride was
diversified with Oriental fruit trees and Oriental
grain plantations and cotton plants, growing luxu-
Iiantly in the black loamy soil. The sparrows were
kt.I and tha rnaA al xrfth
caravans Of country Arabs, going from and TO the
fair, which took place once year. This season
there were about 100000 present We passed the
grounds covered with tents aud camels and horses,
where the Cairo dancing girls delight the youths Of
the country by the disgusting exposure OF their
forms, and the revolving movements OF the Almeh,
where the BcdOuin finds market for his horse, the
Arab bargains with the Levantine merchant for his
grain the planter barters his cotton and his indigo
with the Greek, who so well understands the tricks
Of tlade-for when Greek meets Greek, the Arab
then gets squtezed-whcre, IN spite 81 firmans from
Stanbon, the Turk knocks down TO the highest bid
Ger his pretty women and his ugly men; where
honesty Is bought and sold for honor and integrity
are strange sounding words in Egypt. As you get
further into the country, the villages and cities be-
come more and more like the mud dwellings, Of
aboriginal races. The wretchedness Of Cairo must
be luxurious beside the squallid filth OF the country
town. The rattle trap leneDents OF the city are
palaces compared 10 the beaver huts outside, plas-
tered over with COW dung which they dry and use for
fuel like The ARGOS OF the Nomadc tribes Of North.
ern China. Save view OF Pompey's pillar, there
Is nothing imposing in the inland approaches 20
Alexandria. At one place We saw about a thousand
wTetchod objects mendDg break In the embank-
mcnt but they had no shovel, no spade, no barrow,
no implements whatever. half naked they stood in
long rows along the ditch, passing handful Of mud
one TO the other, like bricks out Of the hold Of
a ship. The sight was ptiful. Degrading
Tie Shoohrey Gardens are the most attractive,
covering large space OF ground, and beautiiied by
all kinds Of Oriental flowers, trees and plants,
which are arranged with more than usual regard 10
symmetry; fountains and grUttos are interpreted
throughout the extensive paths and winding walks
through orange groves and fig trees, the lemon, the
apricot, the date and the pomegranite; q bcsuti.
full green foliage shades the beach stone avenues,
and o delicious perfume delights with the arti
fetal nature, in most agreeable contrast to the per-
fume that arises from the lanes and alleys OF the
city. The palace grounds are more extensive than
the palace; tie building is but story, Of square
proportions, surrounding lake, with fountains In
the centre There are but -four rooms, one In each
corner-a billiard room, dining room, q bedroom.