The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1856-01-07

From the London Court Journal Dec. g.
The fine weather have been enjoying until now hs
retarded, by fortnight at least the frank and free
adoption Of heavy winter costume The materials
OF last month. Silks Of thick and rich fabric eros do
Lyons figured with heavy designs in velvet or chenille
are stu worn in preference to the ponderos manufac-
generally been before this period of the year The
newest stus are again those presented by Bury They
hold with promise Of immense recherche and exosnditure
In the female toilet for the real Paris season. which can
scarcely be said to commence till the middle of next
month These stus all of MORE antique striped with
broad watered stripe Of about six inches In width
the intermediate space Is unwatered, and upon
coors small pattern of thick se such as rosebmd
forget me not strawberries this asts the tavorite
entirely novel distribution of color has produced sensa
tcn nasmuch as the efforts ef all great directors of
fashion have been turned of lse 10 the keeping down Of
the brianttins which ashionaol es were gradual
~ xaggerating almost to the exclusion of good to
and the problem has been resolved by Bprty these de-
tiltic perfection in the mixture Of solidy grace and
charm which they combine. The next novelty the
Gagelns abrique but the originality Of the idea is dis
pued becaue Dee and others have long ago introduced
designs in q emile upon thick ees therefore the app
cation Of the invention is all for which indebted
Gagelin but still the stuff has au1 of novelty and
has been hailed as such by many who had already
BELLIES beautiful fabrics all embroidered and
and covered with chenille of every colour and thickness
Paids aud checks have disappeared for awhile There
anticipation Of their being resumed after the New
Year, founded on the vast quantities Of stus OF this
ure which the manufacturers sending from Lyons
For the present. however, their disgrace is fat accom-
pill and they have given place Ia of all Sorts wnich
weha with tenderness OF souvenir connected with the
days of youth nd the memory of grandmothers
The dress worn by the Empress at the closing of the
Exhibition has given rise to much dis that
we are almost ashamed to record Impressions
c.rning 1t. The whole costume was failure, and
therefore, from courtesy abstain from mentioning
the name of the couuriere to whom Its execution
wss confeed Twas of rich velvet neither ceriss
ponceau nor dahla. This ndecision Of chor was al
ready great mistake Ii rendered liable to be en-
trey efaced by the first bright frank tint placed it.
before her Majesty had reached the steps Of the throne
her head alone seemed to detach itself from the dra
res and banners with which the passage to the throne
decorated. Then, for the first time, observed
want OF distinction In the fall and movement of the
skirt which, considerably too u for velvet completely
Imperial Majesty, and made her whole demarcae appear
aborous and overburhened The waist of the corsage
wss also judged too long, giving thereby pinched and
re,oe appearance 10 the bust to which VIC and 1t hard
accustom ourselves, after the easy and elastic
-e we have been used to gaze upon. Although 10 do
rot The YET W. hnt but jusos due
iress not made either by Madam, Vignon or by
Madame Roger to both Of whom invidous world has
sciibed It, The lace which adorned the dress vas how
ver by way of compensation, nearly approaching to
erfection the work Of mans hand can ever DO sup
sngh announced his discovery the long LIST secret
he point de VniS which has been sought now for three
snturis in vain. The embroidery in seed pearls and
almond specks which adorned the corsage, and In
ssntly recognized as the work Of Madame Brdaut
$50 highly approved. We understand that II mi.
ate copy OF that which ornamented the velvet csfan OF
10 Prince OF Nepaul and viii, had been modelled at
ile time of his visit TO Paris by Maurice Mayer.
Some attention Is, at last being bestowed ball dress,
I'D have before the list of the various materials
ught to be imposed upon the taste OF the fashionable
eiers after novelty. First Of these must we mention
q gozc de Ptemont first by the Duchess do
,ntebello St the ball given at the Hotel de
lie 10 the King Of Sardinia. This material Is light aud
in although quite Opaque 1t repulses the light IN 20
illant manner to appear If lame with silver.
,on thia shining ground small knots of embroidery
own up, having the effect of small pearls II In white,
ra7ces of precious stones, IL in colors. Dw ree the
Ter dresses ell following in the old beaten track
unces of various colors white-howers reaching to
) waist edged with colored stripe diminishing in
nth of nudnce az they rise towards the corsage all
se W exceedingly pretty and becoming but
Nv claim to novelty having been essayed many times
ore dress for the Princess Mathilde which for
time d played at Gagen's, struck US as being rs
r. more o-iriYal. II was OF guzc-mtfe white, with
ad stripes 81 Fgyptan brown. The dress consisted Of
ee shirts 81. stripes upon the under one being Of
Il nH0poc diminishing in intensity upon the second,
becoming quite clear and pale upon the top one