New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1855-09-24


except unmistakcable aborers. II was evidently
q land Of work.
After travelling four or five miles nc apace which
would have been fAtguiDg but Tor the constant ex-
haraton of the south west breeze that blew IN our
faces, we reached wild rolling upland, where the
signs of cultivation became more scarce, and from
the character Of the wild lard could perceive
how much labor and expense are requisite to ut II
for cultivation. The timber is short, but exceed
IDS ly hard and tough and after the trees are cut
and the stumps grubbed up, the soil is covered with
loose stones. which must be picked OF over and
over again before there is q sufficient foothold Tor
grain potatoes. In spite of all this, and the tact
that the soil is but a thin layer upon basis OF
solid rock, which continually crops out through
it, the Yield ofhay is remarkably good and potatoes,
when they escape the rot, produce very well The
price of cleared land varies from f5 10 els per
acre. according 10 quality and location Farming
in this part of the island, scarcely be remuner
alive. except at crisis like the present when all
the neeesssries Of life are very dear.
The scenery through which our road lay re-
minded me continually of the western coast OF
Scotland. Ii certainly bore no resemblance to any
part Of the American continent which have Wis
tied High. bald ranges Of hills, following the line
of the coast. stretched away southwark, where
they blended with the rolling inland, covered with
dark woods of spruce, mr. and larch. From every
ridge We overlooked stern tracts of wilderness,
which embosomed lakes of cold, fresh water, bluer
than sapphire Occasionally streams whose tut
of golden brown betrayed the roots and trunks
through which they had filtered. brawed over
their rocky beds. A few cattle and sheep grazing
along the edge Of the woods gave pastoral air to
this region. which would otherwise have been desc
late in It's ruggedness and loneliness.
We stopped few minutes at waysde tavern,
where in room with sanded floor and colored
prints on the walls, we were served with
10 n
the tree We had walked eight miles, and were
now upon the dividing ridge between the Atlantic
and Conception Bay, deep sheet OF water which
reaches 10 within three miles of Placentla Bay on
the southern side Of the island, and almost insu-
lates the promontory on which st Johns IL 6ullt.
Two hills opened like "a gateway, and between them
spread the blue waters of the bay, with It's dim
further shore and the long, undulating hills OF Bell
Isle basking in the soft light of the afternoon sun
The road. which was as hard and smooth as an
English highway, led downward to the shore, re-
yealing with every step wider stretch OF bay,
over which lowered, on the right, the pale red
and gray rocks of Topsail Head, rising to hight
of seven or eight hundred feet la little glen,
the bottom of which by careful clearing and dram
ing had been turned into smooth field OF thick,
NOISY turf we found the neat white cottage, which
was TO be our resting place for the night rapid
stretm foamed beside it, and hills of FIR enclosed
il on all sides except the north, which was open
10 the bay The mistress of the house was absent,
but We found man and maid servant, who con-
Quoted the affairs of the household in her stead
As there were still tEo or three hours of day.
light. we walked on to the village of Topsai, aud
followed the road along the shore to place called
Chamberain's Point The views across the bay,
aud south westward toward it's head, were very
beautiful Bell Isle lay stretched out before us in
its whole length, with the picturesque little fishing
village Of Lance Cove opposite to US. Little Bell
Isle and Kells's Ise were further sOudl, and be
yond them the shore was no longer bold and bluff,
but sank into gentle hills. The road was lined
with the wooden huts of the fishermen, with here
and there the more ambitious summer cottage OF a
ST Johns merchant, buried in q sheterlng grove
of frtrees The scenery became less bleak and
rugged as we advanced, and | regretted that had
not time to follow the road to Hollywood, II miles
further, at the head of the bay.
We returned TO the cottage under sunset sky
as clear and cold it is possible tor sky to APP
pear. The fire of dried boughs in the capacious
chimney place was very comfortable IN the even
ing and in spite OF brilliant white auroral arch
ard shooting lances of golden flame III the northern
SKY, We preferred remaining indoors, loungng on
the benches in the chimney corner smoking, and
listening to tales of cod fishing, aud wolf or bear
hunting, told by the shrewd, sturdy, servng-man,
William of Dorsetshire. William was farmer,
hunter, and sailor, all 10 one, and his originally
frank and honest nature had ripened vigorously IN
the exercise of the three manifest occupations IN
the world. His blunt, expressive language and
rough experiences Of the Newfoundland shores
and forests had real charm for me, and the early
bedtime of the country came on apace. enjoyed
a sound sleep after the days tramp, and awOke
with the first blush of morning as frOstily cool as
our October. We had hired horse and light
wagon from Mr. DAILY, who kept a store and tavern
for the fishermen at Topsail; Mr.. Winton added
his own wagon and gray pony, and t"o hours
drive over the hills, in the clOudess sunshine and
elastic air, brought us back to st. Johns.
We found our fellow passengers preparing for an
excursion to Portugal Cove, on Conception Bay.
The hospitality of St Johns was already exerting
itself TO find means for our diversion, and every
available private carriage in the town where there
is not single hack to be hired had been secured.
Before l o'clock all our passengers and twenty or
thirty ladies' and gentlemen of the place were on
the road. We passed the Cathedral and Govern
ment House. catching, from the other side of the
hill, glimpse of Quidi Vidi Lake, picturesque
sheet of water which lies behind Signal Hill, and
slowly climbed to the rolling, wooded uplsnds of
the interior To the north extended shallow
basin. containing 200 acres Of dwarf spruce for
est, beyond which arose the blue headlands OF the
coast, with slips Of the ocean horizon between.
All this tract might be cleared and cultivated, but
much of il would require drainage, and the ex
peuse of preparing ii for grain would hardly repay
the scanty and uncertain yield. All this region is
remarkably well watered in fact, the same remark
applies to the whole island and it ia estimated that
one fourth OF its surface consists OF lakes and
ponds We passed several beautiful lakes, swarm
ing with trout, and cleaning cold and blue in tho
sunshine Twenty -milc Pond picturesque sheet
Of water IL six or seven miles in length, and con
thinn several islands There were few cottages
mud hay fields along the road, and ! saw some
attacks Of pcni which must have been cnt moro