The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1855-10-25

point, as a centre, issued the explorations of my
party.
The winter was of heretofore unrecorded Sc
verify. Whisky froze as early as November,
and mercury remained solid for nearly four
months. The range Of eleven spirit thermom-
eters, selected as standards, gave temperatures
mot yet reduced) of sixty to seventy-fve de-
grees below zero, and the mean annual tenn
perature was 50 = Fahrenheit, the lowest ever
registered.
This extreme cold, combined with 40 DAYS
absence of sun, gave rise to an obscure but fatal
form of tetanus, (lockiaw.) The exertions of
Dr. Hayes, the surgeon of the expedition, had
readily subdued the scurvy but these fearful ten
denotes to tonic spssms defed our united efforts
This disorder extended to our dogs, ffty-seven
of which persisted, thus completely breaking mp
my sledge organization.
The operations of search were carried on
under circumstances of peculiar hardship. We
worked at our sledges as late as the oath Of
November, and renewed our labor in March
Much Of this travel was in darkness, and some
at temperatures as low as 500. The earlier
winter travel was undertaken by myself i'm per
son; but by the aid of a single team of dogs.
, and the jealous cooperation Of my officers, we
we're enabled to replace the parties as they be-
came exhausted, and thus continue the search
until the 18th of July. 1t is believed that no
previous parties have been so long in the field
Messrs. Brooks, McGeary, Bonsall, Hayes, and
Morton, successfully contributed to the general
result. The men worked with fidelity and en-
durance.
| briefly detail the explorations of our party
Smith s Sound has been followed and SURVEYED
throughout its entire extent. 1t terminates to
the northeast in gulf ITO miles in its long di-
| ameter.
Greenland has beer traced to its northern
face, the coast trending nearly due east and west
u. IL NJ It's further penetration towards
the Atlantic was arrested by glacier, which
offers an impossible barrier to future explora-
ton. This stupendOus mass of ice issues in
6O0 west longitude. 1t is coincident with the
axis of the peninsula, and is probably the only
obstacle to the insularty of Greenland. 1t rises
| 300 feet in perpendicular face, and has been
followed along its base for eighty miles in one
unbroken escarpment. This glacier runs near
| ly due north, and cements together by an icy
union the continental masses of Greenland and
America.
1t explains the broken and permanently fro.
zen character of Upper Smiths Sound its
abundant icebergs, and, to a certain extent its
rigorous climate. AS a spectacle, it was one
Of the highest sublimity.
! The northern land into which this glacier
|
bay which interpCses between il and Greenland.
! | have named after Mr.. Peabody.
Peabody Bay gives exit at it's western curve
| (lat S0' l2/) to large channel, which forms
the most interesting geographical feature of our
| travel. This channel expands to the north
ward into On open and iceless area Astounding
IN animal lite, and presenting every character
of an open Polar sea. A surface of 5000 square
miles was seen, at various elevations, free from
ice, with a northern horizon equally free. A
north wind, ffty-two hours in duration, failed
to bring any drift into this area
1t is with pain that | mention to the Depart
met met my inability to navigate these waters.
One hundred and twenty-five miles of solid Ice.
so rough as to be impossible to boats, sepa
rated them from the nearest southern land
My personal efforts in April and May failed to
convey one of the smallest India rubber boats
to within ninety miles of the channel.
dy party, including myself, were completely
| broken four of them had undergone amputa-
ton of toes for frost-bite, nearly all were suf
tering from scurvy, and the season had so far
advanced as to render another Journey impossi-
BILE. To the north of lat 80 IL the shores of
the channel became precipitous, and destitute
even of passage to the sedge. William Nor
ton, who, with one Esquimsux and a small team
OF dogs, had reached this spot, pushed forward
on foot, until mural cape, dashed by a heavy
surf, absolutely checked his progress
1t was on the western coasts of this sea that
L had hoped TO find traces of the gallant mar
tyrs whose search instigated this expedition.
The splendid efforts of DR.. Ray-now first
known to me-would have given such a travel
merely geographical value. Reviewing con-
scientously the condition of my party, it is per
haps providential that we failed in the embark
alton.
The land washed by this sea to the northward
and westward has been charted as high as lati-
tude $50 3O/ and longitude 760. This forms
the nearest land to the pole yet discovered. 1t
bears the honored name Of Mr.. Grinnel
AS the season advanced, it became evident
that our brig would not be liberated. Our i'm
mediate harbor gavo few signs Of breaking up.
and one unbroken ice surface extended TO the
sound. 1t was now too late to attempt an es.
cape by boats; our fuel was deficient, and our
provisions, although abundant, were in no wise
calculated to resist scurvy. At this iuncture,
| started with FIVE volunteers on an attempt to
reach the mouth of Lancaster Sound, where /
hoped to meet the English expeditions, and
afford relief to my associates. During this
journey, we crossed the northernmost track of
William Baffin, in --, but finding a solid pack
extending from Joness Sound to Hakluyt Island
Win ulliculLy reGalneu the orig.
The second winter was one Of extreme trial.
We were obliged, as a measure Of policy, to live
the lives of the Esquimaux, enveloped in walls
of moss, burning lamps, and eating the raw
meats of the wslrus and bear. At one time,
every member of our party, with the exception
of Mr.. Bonsall and myself, was PROSTATE with
scurvy, and unable to leave his bunk. Moth
ing saved US but vigorously -organized hunt,
and the aid OF dogs, IN procuring walrus from
the Esquimaux, the nearest settlement of which
people was seventy miles distant from our har-
Dor.
With these Esquimaux-a race of the high /
est interest-we formed a valuable alliance, /
sharing our resources, and mutually depending /.
upon each other. They were never thorough |
ly TO be trusted, but, by mixed course of in I
timidation and kindness, became Of essential ,
service.
l have to report the loss Of three of my COM
rades, brave men, who persisted in the direct .
discharge of their duty. Two of these-scting
carpenter Christian Ohlsen and jefferson Ba-
ker-died of lockjGw; the third, Peter Schu
bert, of abscess following amputation of the
foot. Mr.. Ohlsen was valuable adviser and .
personal friend. He acted in command of the .
brig during my absence upon the sledge Jour
neys.
Knowing that third winter would be fatal,
and that we were too much invested by ice for .
an expedition from the Sound to liberate us in .
time for the present season, abandoned the |
Advance on the 18th of May, and commenced |
a travel to the south. The sick-four in mum.
ber-were conveyed by our dog sledge. had
to sacrifice my collection of natural history, but
saved the documents of the expedition.
The organization Of this journey was careful .
ly matured, to meet the alternating contingen- /
cies of ice and water. 1t consisted of boats era.
died upon wooden runners. with lesser slod.,oa !