The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1855-12-06
For the National Era.
"REMINISCENCES OF SUMMER TRhVEL
THE ST. LAWRENCE AND THE sAGUErAY.
BY MINNIE MYRTLE.

We had been all night up the tempestuous
ST. Lawrence, when clear and bright the morn
ing dawned, and found us sheltered beneath the
gray walls of Quebec-the fortress crowned and
gate-bound city of the North. And though we
had read hundred descriptions, and seen pic
lures of it taken from as many points, it was Just
as new as if it had now for the first time entered
our thoughts, and far more grand and imposing
than we had ever imagined.
To visit Montreal and Quebec, and go from
village TO village among Canadian peasantry, is
next to trip to Europe. The scenery, The
widely different from anything we see cover the
border" among Americans, asxif the wide
ocean, instead of an imaginary line divi1ed US.
We had been down the st. Lawrence three hun
dred miles beyond Quebec, and up the river
Saguenay nearly seventy miles, stopping at
many villages by the way, and were struck by
the quiet ways and non-prog essive habits of
the people. They are the descendants of Nor
mandy peasants, and scarcely differ now in
their modes of life from their ancestors, centu-
ries ago. We looked in amazement, too, during
the whole three hundred miles, on the banks of
the St. Lawrence, to see how thick the little
white cottages stood, having the appearance of
one continuous village all along the shore. 1t
seems to US cold and sterile region, but the
land must be very productive to support so
many, though simple indeed must be the tastes
of people who live almost entirely upon what
the soil furnishes.
On the Hudson, Ohio, and Mississippi, the
waters are dotted with sails and busy steamers,
engaged in the coasting trade; but here there
was scarcely boat to be seen; and what the
farmer and the village merchant can transport
upon sledges over the winter SHOWS, are all the
people can share of city Injuries. We thought
it would be pleasant trip to go by land the
same distance, and live meantime among this
artless peasantry, and see what muss be the
perfection of rural life and simplicity; for in
Canada there is far more of comfost among
these classes than in Europe. TherS are no
large manufacturing districts to opprtas sll the
surrounding population, they have feT taxes to
pay, and perfect freedom in religious matters
The system of tenures has been lately abolish
ed, so that the peasants can own the land they
till. Though entirely French, and a conquered
people, they seem very loyal; and as they are
left to enjoy in peace all the privileges they de-
sire, they trouble themselves little about the
operations of a Government which manifests no
disposition to Cypress.
Our little steamer stopped at Murray Bay
and Riviere du Loup, or Wolf river, where ex-
pensive wharves have been built, as the only
way of making the coast accessible; and we
took seat in the curious calash, drawn by the
tough little Canada pony, and dashed over the
corduroy roads with fury only eaeafled by
Jehu. Our drivers could speak noshing but
French, and we heard nothing but tse jabber-
ing of French in the streets.
1t was pleasant summer evenir that we
stopped at Rivere du Loup, and the loors and
windows of the dwellings were OPEN while the
women and children were chatting ard playing
on the steps. The cottages are per he'd amid
the rocks, and have picturesque al, which is
never seen in New England villagese and trees
and trellices are scattered about, W tn a taste
quite foreign to anything we see al Tong Eng
lish or American laborers. This place is so
near the Gulf that quite a serf is ,isible, and
many come here from Quebec and ontreal for