The western Democrat. [volume] (Charlotte, N.C.) 1852-1870, 1855-04-06
Visit TO n Volcano.

around Us, We drove to Resina, where we were
beset by the motest and sturdiest set of guides,
bfggars and boys, we had yet encountered. The
guides were ready to furnish horses and conduct
US TO Vesuvius. The beggars wanted money, and
the boys, would sell us sticks TO walk up The mouh-
tain. or they would 60 along and help US. We
had been advised to find Vincent Cozzono, who
had conducted Ross, Forbes, Humboldt and other
great men, and was therefore the man for US ! We
inquired for him, and one guide claimed TO be his
brother, and another his cousin, but Ine real Coz
zono was not 10 be found. His house was near,
and ihither we went. He was absent, but we
fouro his son, smart young fellow, who pro.
duced bis book of certificates, and among them
from Professor Siliman, whose commenda-
ton aIl-suffcient, and we committed ourselves
a: once 10 his care. Giovanni, for that was his
name, supplied us at once with horses and we set
off with the whole gang Of boys. boggars, and
guides in full cry after us. They assured us that
one guide would not be enough, we should need
help in climbing the mountain, and each one had
some particular service to render which was quite
indispensable to our success. By dint of hard
riding we managed TO get away from them, and
by road that was well paved and had been for
thousand years, rode on for an hour, and then
commenced ascent by a winding but easy path.
which, after another hour, brought the table
land, where stands the Hermitage with refresh
ments for travellers. Our way had led US through
fields In which men were at work, and many
men saluted Us passed. Vast strata OF lava
were lying in great ridges, along the sides Of which
the vines were growing luxurianty, where the
waves Of liquid stone had once flowed and coaed,
now stretching IN long Iowx like rivers from the
mountain TO the sea. We often paused on our up.
ward way TO look back the enchanting pros
Pect--the neat white cottages the hiIE-sdes the
vllag"s on The plain, the city, the bay, the islands,
and the blue glorious vision, every mo-
ment growing more beautiful as we ascend and
take in a wider view. Now observe success
sive layers of lava, with The common earth be-
tween; on The border Of a ravne we could thus
count the four strata deposited by many
flows of The boiling caidron. After leaving the
Hermitage crossed immense fields Of lava,
over which path for the horses has been made,
and in single file we made way to the foot of
The cone of Vesuvius. We are now between
Monte Somma and Vesuvius. They were in
olden times, till The great eruption Of A. D. 70
eft this valley after the mountain had flowed down
to The plain and The sea, and buried the cities of
Hercuianeum and Pompe. At the base OF the
cone a dozen fellows were awaiting the arrival Of
travellers, and with sedan chairs would carry those
TO the summit who preferred that to walking and
when we all refused to be carried, thev followed
US, insisting that we should allow them to haul us
up with handkerchief about our waists Taking
the track along The side o! ridge Of lava, now
and then leaving it for the ashes, into which we
sank and slipped back about as fast as We got up,
we cllmed as perpendicularly up ruined stair
way Of some old castle. From time to time Twas
obliged 10 sit down on the ragged piles Of lava
and gather strength for the ascent, for The summit
seemed 10 recede approached it. But we
did it in forty minutes from the base of the cone.
Now on the rim OF the crater, the ground on which
we are treading is opened with seams cracks
from whlch smoke Or lIv nd
i! we listen can hear the roar of the internal
fires beneath our feet. We went few steps be-
low the verge to get some protection from the cool
winds that blew too freshly on in our heat. and
there We placed a lot OF eggs in the crevces Of
the earth, and made Vesuvius cook them Tor our
dinner. Refreshed and rested. we descended a
hundred feel into the crater and, standing on
ledge Of rocks, could see down into still lowe-
depths, from which the smoke was rising, but no
fire was perceptible. After the interior of the
crater has been cleaned out by a great eruption,
IT is easy TO go down into il and make such an ex-
picTaIon ; but 1t is gradually filled up by the up
OF the boiling mass, and when full il flows
over and runs in rivers down the mountain side
or mighty eructation throws it up into the air 10
descend IN a storm Of red hot stones and scora.
Envel"ped in the thick suIphurous vapor that rose
from the abyss, we were sometimes unable 10 see
up or down, and appeared 10 ourselves TO be lost
in the vestibule of some purga toria cavern, from
which dellverance doubtful. For few
mens The clouds would clear away, and we then
launched huge stones into the abyss, listening to
hear their roll and bound after they had passed out
Of sight.
| write these lines sitting on The rocks as near
the bolton of the crater as could reach. 1t
harder to get out OF il than in. But once more on
the verge above, we pursued footway around
the craIer, perhaps mile and half in crcum-
hut The SDlDhur clouds Of annoke
and steam so nearly choked me- that was obliged
to cuver my face with my handkerchief, and trust
to the guide 10 lead me through. Happily the
wind was favorable, and whsn we came around to
tho western side we were relieved, and could look
off on the magnificent prospect which the summit
Of Vesuvius commands. 1t enhancing
sight. There is other like it in the earth. If
this has been said of score of other scenes, let
them be all unsaid, that the view from Vesuvius
may bear the palm. We look far off
into The country where cities have been, and white
villages now are, and smiling vineyards, down
into whose bosom these black streams extend from
me sides Of ihc mountain. And here is beautiful
Naples. grdliUg The with its suburban villa
ges and there lie the islands OF Capri and ischia.
and this great and wide sea-" Bul must not
be looking of. We plunge our walking, ,sticks
into the ground, and out rushes the smoke and
suphurous gas. We walk on and find new open
ings and hot steam issues, before which we could
moi hold our hands. We step across vide assures
from which The scalding yapor ascending, and
we could distinctly hear the roar of the boiling