New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1855-06-27

its dark, ragged arms high above the gray Of the
budding birch and the faint green Of the larch-
Ozaukee or Port Washington, thirty miles north
of Milwaukee, appears TO great advantage from
the lake, with its clusters Of white houses rising
gradually from the waters edge to the summit OF
the low hills sheboygan, which we reached about
noon, 10 considerably larger and more Important
place 1t 10 one Of the outlets Of the rich aud
growing country around and beyond Lake Winnie
baeo and is connected by Plank-road with Fond
du Lac. Judging from the number of buildings
in the course of erection it is no exception to the
general law of progress in the West.
Tn the afternoon we touched at Manitowoc and
Two Rivers, both 20 young that there is barely
ground enough cleared for them to stand upon
and the primitive forest still shuts out their
get view. There are already stores, taverns, Ger
man lager. beer saloons, and other signs Of growth
in abundance. The Michigan shore, although be-
tween sixty and seventy miles distant, was lifted
into the air by mirage, and distinctly visible.
This effect continued until after sunset and
even saw Msnitou leland sixty-fve miles OF by
moonlight. The air was clear, bracing and pure,
but so cold that did not venture on deck without
thick overcoat
In the morning we were opposite Beaver Island,
where branch Of the Mormon sect is c0lOniZed.
So far as could learn they are not polygamists,
and are independent of the Salt Lake organization.
The Michigan shores soon afterward came into
sjsbt and lighthouse far ahead announced our
approach to Mackinaw Straits. The country on
both sides ia densey covered with woods, which ia
some places were on fire, sending thick columns Of
smoke into the air. l noticed several steam saw
mills, and some new frame houses standing in
cleared spots but the greater part OF the coast is
vet uninvaded by settlers. Passing the pr0mOnto-
nv of St. Ignace on the northern shore, we entered
Lake Huron, heading for Mackinaw leland, which
is about twenty miles distant. The long island of
Bots Blanc lay TO the southwark. The surface of
the lake was scarcely ruffed by the sweet western
wind; the sky was of pale, transparent blue, and
the shores and islands were as sharply and clearly
defined as if carved on crystal tablet. 1t was
genuine Northern realm We had entered--no
warmth no depth of color no undulating grace of
outline, but bold, abrupt positive form, cold pure
brilliancy of atmosphere, and an expression of
vigor and reality which would make dreams impOs-
sible If there is any air in which Action is the
very charm and flavor of Life. and not ts curse,
it is the air Of MackiDaw.
We ran rapidly up to the town, which is built
at the foot of the bluffs, on the southern side. A
tort adapted for times of peace and with small
garrison. overlooks it. The houses are mostly OF
wood, scattered along the shore, with few trees
and fewer gardens interpreted. The appearance
of the place is nevertheless very picturesque with
the wooded center of the island rising in the rear,
and the precptous cliffs of gray rock thanking it on
both sides The associations of two centuries
linger about those cliffs, and the names of Henne
piS, La Sale, Marquette, and other pioneers of
Western civilization make them classic ground to
the reader of American history.
We remained five hours in order to take on some
coal which two schooners were discharging at the
pier made use of the time to stroll the island
and visit its two liOns-tbe Sugar Loaf and the
Arcbed Rock Capt wilkins obligngly offered
10 be our guide. The road, after we had passed
through the fort, led through woods of budding
birch, and the fragrant arbor-vitg, (thuya occi-
fentalis) which turned the air into resnous
wine, as grateful to the lungs Falernian to the
palate. We passed around the foot of the central
bill, 800 feet high, wherein are the remains of the
old Notifications On a terrace between it and the
eastern cliffs stands the Sugar L0af-a pointed,
isolated rock seventy feet high. The rock which
appeared to be secondary limestone, is honey
combed BY the weather, and reminded me very
strikinoly of Banner Rock" in the interior of
the island of Loo-Choo. The structure is pre-
cisely similar, and the hight very nearly the same
We now struck across the woods, which abounded
With anemones and white trillums in blossom to
he edge of the cliffs, which we followed for some
distance. catching occasional ghmpses through the
bick clumps of arbOr-yit9 Of the transparentlake
,elow and the Northern shore, stretching away to
;ault ST. Marie and Lake Superior. The forests
D that direction were burning, aud the dense
oluues of white smoke carried southwark by the
ind blotted out the Eastern horizon for space
4 thirty or forty miles.
The irched Rock stands little apart from the
inc of the cliffs, with which it is connected by
narrow ledge. 1t is $50 feet high, forming rude
,atural mortal, through which you can look out
mon the lake The arch is ten feet thick, and in
he center not more than IL inches wide. L
,limbed out to the keystone, but the rock was so
oose and disintegated that did not venture to
cross the remaining portion On our return to the
boat l visited some Chippewa families, who were
upon the beach, but as they knew nei
her English nor French, the conversation was
limited. The water of the lake is clear as crystal
md cold as ice, and had an opportunity to verify
the reports of its marvellous transparency. The
bottom is distinctly visible at the depth Of from
fifty to sixty feet.
We left Macknaw t5&afa. evening, and at sun
rise next morning were abreast Of the Isle of
Coves. at the entrance of the Georgian Bay. The
islands which separate the Bay from Lake Huron
are rather low bat those beyond, lying nearer the
Canada shore, rise abruptly from the water in
cliffs of red rock, crowned with forests of larch
and pine Alternately advancing and retreating
behind each other as we passed along before them,
they preser ted shifting diorams of the widest
forms. The sky was cloudess, sotened with
slight haze, and the sir so cold that the water
used in washing the decks made icicles on the
guards. Cabotss Head, the north eastern point of
the Canadian promontory, terminates in range
of precipices 200 feet high, back of which the I'M
broken forest sweeps away into wide. rolling,
upland region, which is said to be an admirable
wheat country wherever il has been cleared
After passing the Head We lost sight of the coast,
which tends southwark, for time but our at
tention was called to the steamer Keystone State
of the Collipgwood Line, which had passed us at
Milwaukee, but which we were now rapidly over
hauling IL was not a race for the Queen CITY