New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1855-10-26
Newaork daily Gribn,ae.
RETURN TO PORT AUX BASQUES-1N
EXCLUSION INTO THE COUNTRY.
From Our Special Correspondent.


Wednesday Morning, Aug. %, 1855.
After clearing Cape Spear, on Saturday after
noon, We stood down the coast, intending to stop
for the night at Bay Bulls, about twenty
miles distant, in order to put the steamer in proper
trim. The hills rose abruptly from the waters
edge to the hight of seven or eight hundred feet,
their ribs and shoulders Of dark red rock but scant
lily clothed with a covering Of gray moss, sleeps
laurel and dwarf fr-trees. There are neither
rocks nor shoals on this part of the coast and the
steamer might have sailed to Cape Race, within
gun shot of the land The deep sea-swells, caught
in the iDnumerable clets and holows of the rocks,
burst upward in enormous jets of foam which sub
sided to rise again after minute or two OF calm.
In one point there was spout or breathing-hole
through the rock, opening about fifty feet above
the sea- After each swell rolled in, q slender
plume of snow-white spray, thirty feet high, shot
through the orifce and waved moment on the
brink of the cliff The picturesque inequalities OF
the coast and these curious and graceful caprices
of the sea made us forget its errors as lee shore
and its bleakness and sterlity as place for the
dwelling of man.
We had very strong southwest wind to con-
tend against with long, rolling head-swell, which
was severely felt by all who had INDUCED in the
late hours and sumptuous suppers of st. Johns.
1t was q partial relief when We rounded into
Bay Bulls and ran through a mile of smooth
water to it's head The harbor is nearly elliptical
in shape The northern shore rises into high
conical peak, partly covered with stunted spruce
and fiji. trees and slopiDg its western side into
a range of hills which sweep like an amphitheater
tba b.y Tho villaoa ia hnilt around the
head of the harbor and contains about one hundred
and fifty houses The hills behind it have been
cleared and turned into fields of barley and grass
The place, with it's wooden church, its hsh-flakes
along the water, its two three large store
houses it's yellow fields of late hay, and the dark,
dwarfish woods behind, reminded me strongly of
view on one Of the Norwegian fords. A large
white house was pointed out to me as the resi-
dence of lady who is godmother to thirty. nine
children-s fact which shows either that children
are very plenty or gOdmothers very scarce.
As the signs of good weather continued and the
ship proved to be in tolerable trim, we landed
ST. Johns pilot whom We had taken aboard for the
harbor and immediately put to sea. As long as it
was light we kept near the coast, and at dusk
passed the bay or cove of Ferryland, where two of
the Arctic's boats came to land, with the few who
were saved by that means. The shores are here
low a,d green but the light was too indistinct for
objects to be readily perceived After night We
$1,000 D Uttlc IuTt0eI IIOm tuc Codp' htu hCCPiuk
near it, in spite Of fog which was at times 30
dense that nothing could be seen ships length
distant. At daylight Cape Pine was in sight; Cape
ChapesurOuge, forty miles of, showed itself once
or twice during the forenoon; and before sunset
we had again passed st. Pierre and Miquelon. We
saw the Osprey at a distance, bound from Halifax
to St Johns There was no service during the
day on account of the disturbed state OF the pas
seppers The sea subsidized little in the alter
noon and nearly all were on deck at sunset to
watch one of the most superb skies of the North
fade more beautifully, through its hues of orange,
amber-sreen and carmine, than all the dolPhins
that ever died.
Early on Monday morning we saw Cape Kay,
and, running westward along the coast made she
rocky point off Port aux. Basques In an hour or
two Through the glass We saw the little steamer
Victoria at anchor in the harbor and the topnasts
of q three-masted vessel All was anxiety on
board to know whether she was the long expected
bark Sarah L. Bryant with the submarine cable
ON board, when FIVE or six miles out OF port
boat approached US, and Capt. Sluyter OF tue We
toria confirmed the welcome news. The James
Adeer, owing 10 her length reached good anchor
ipg.pround at the head of the harbor with some
difficulty. We soon ascertained that the macbin-
ery requisite for paying out the cable had not yet
been put up and the work could not be CON-
menced for day or two. Mr.. Cooper therefore
determined TO cross 70 Cape North, the Cape
Breton terminus, aAn eeIect proper pace 10
bring the cable ashore.
As soon as this announcement was made, num-
Der OF our passengers prepared to go ashore, aud
speLd the intervening time in becoming acquainted
with the village and the neigbbOrlng country. But
short time was given US 10 fit out, and l barely
mansced 10 snatch shawl, sketch book, few
ships biscuits and handful Of red herring, before
the boat pushed off with us. A party Of four
Mr. Sluyier, Mr.. O'Brien, Mr.. MiddlebroOk and
myself-detsrminea to make foray into the hills
behind the village in the hope of shooting Carl
boo, or reindeer; and our first care, landing at
tie piles of goldfish before Mr. Waddells house,
! was to procure guns, supplies and guides MI
| Wsddell-who acted as If his house and al that
was in il belonged as much 10 ourselves as 10
hm-not only gave US good dinner Of bean soup
| and duff, but all his iowline pieces ammunition
and equipments. He even consented TO keep tally
! of the quintas of dried Goldfish which bis men
were carry ing on board of schooner lying below
his storebeuse, in order that his tslly-msu, John
| Butt BIZ name might act our pilot over the
! narsby hills. Butt was stout st. Johnsman,
with q strong, tanned face, clear, light blue eyes,
and shock head of curled and grizzly bair. AT
nv suggestion be procured two other mea-Genge-
bony fisherman with prominent hose and enor-
nous sandy wbiskers, and his step-son Robert,
| blipbt.eyed youth II twenty-five. We aided
| Loaf of bread and dried Goldfish IN our slender
| stock of Notwithstanding TO our muskets for
a further supply-and turned our backs on the
village and cur faces toward the misty range oil