Washington sentinel. [volume] (City of Washington [D.C.]) 1853-1856, 1855-10-16

the coast tending nearly due east and west, e. |
10 NJ It's further penetration towards the At
lantic was arrested by glacier, which offers an
impossible barrier to future exploration. This
stupendous of ice issues in QUO west iongi-
tude. Ii is coincident with the axis of the PENN
sula, and is probably the only obstacle TO the IN
sularity of Greenland. Ii rises 300 feet III per-
pendicular face, and has been followed along its
base for 30 miles in one unbroken escarpment.
This glacier runs nearly due north, and cements
together by an icy union the continental masses
of Greenland and America
1t explains the broken and permanently frozen
character of Upper Smiths Sound its abundant
cebergs, and, to certain extent, its rigorous
climate. As spectacle, IT was one OF the highest
sublimity.
merges has been named Washington, and the bay
which interposes between it and Greenland |
have named after Mr.. Peabody.
Peabody bay gives exit at its western curve
latitude 80 deg. II min,) to large channel,
which forms the most interesting geographical
feature of our travel This channel expands to
the northward into open and iceless arena,
Astounding in animal life and presenting every
character Of an open Polar sea. A surface OF 3OO
square miles was seen at various elevations Tree
from ice, with a northern horizon equally free
A north wind, fifty two hours in duration, failed
TO bring any drift into this area.
II is with pain that mention to the Depart
ment my inability to navigate these waters. One
hundred and twenty-five miles of solid ice, 50
rough as to be impossible to boats, separated
them from the nearest southern lead. My per-
sonal efforts in April and May failed to convey
one Of the smallest lndia-rubber boats to within
80 miles of the channel.
My party, including myself, were completely
broken; four of them had undergone amputation
of toes for frost bite; nearly all were suffering
from scurvy, and the season had SO far advanced
as to render another journey impossible. To the
| -r l. So
channel became precptous, and destitute eren OF
passage 10 the sledge. William Morton, who, with
one Esquimaux and small team Of dogs, had
reached this spot, pushed forward on foot until
mural cape, dashed by heavy surf, absolutely
checked his progress.
1t was on the western coast Of this sea that
had hoped to find traces of the gallant martyrs
whose search instigated this expedition The
| splendid efforts of Dr. Ray-now first known to
| me-would have given such travel merely
geographical value Reviewing conscientiously
the condition Of my party, it is perhaps provden-
| tial that we failed in the embarkation.
| The land washed by this sea to the northward
and westward has been charted as high as lati-
tude 50 deg. 36 min. and longitude 76 deg. This
forms the nearest land to the pole yet discovered
1t bears the honored name of MIR. Grinnell.
| AS the season advanced it became evident that
| our brig would not be liberated. Our immediate
harbor gave few signs of breaking up, and one
unbroken ice surface extended to the Sound. 1t
was now too late to attempt an escape by boats;
our fuel was deficient, and provisions, al
though abundant, were in no wise calculated to
resist scurvy. At this juncture started with FIVE
volunteers an attempt TO reach the mouth Of
Lancaster Sound, where hoped to meet the Eng
/ lish expeditions and afford relief to my associates
| During this journey crossed the northernmost
track of William Baffin, in -, but, finding
solid pack extending from Jones's Sound to
Hakluyt Island, with difficulty regained the brig.
r.a1
| We were obliged, as a measure of policy, TO live
the lives Of the Esquimaux, onveloped in walls of
moss, burning lamps, and eating the raw meats
of the walrus and bear. At one time every men,
Der OF our party,w the exception OF MIR. Bon
sail and myself, was PROSTATE with scurvy and
unable te leave his bunk. Nothing saved us but
a vigorously organized hunt and the aid Of dogs
| in procuring walrus from the Esquimaux, the
nearest settlement of which people was 10 miles
distant from our harbor
With these Esquimaux-a race of the highest
| interest-we formed valuable alliance, sharing
our resources and mutually depending upon each
other. They were never thoroughly to be trust
| ed, but by mixed course of intimidation and
/ kindness became of essential service.
! i have 10 report the loss of three of my COM
rades-brave men who persisted in the direct dis
charge Of their duty. Two Of these, acting car
penter Christian Ohlsen and Jefferson Baker,
died Of lockjaw; the third, Peter Shubert, of
abscess following amputation of the foot. Mr.
| Ohsen was valuable adviser and personal friend.
He acted in command of the brig during my alb
sence upon the sledge journeys.
/ knowing that third winter would be fatal,
and that we were too much invested by ice for an
expedition from the Sound TO liberate us in time
| for the present season, abandoned the Advance
on the 18th of May and commenced a travel TO
the south. The sick, four in number, were con-
veyed by our dog sledge. had to sacrifice my
collection Of natural history, but saved the docu-
ments of the expedition.
The organization Of this journey was carefully
matured 10 meet the alternating contingencies of
/ ice aud water Ii consisted of boats Graded upon
wooden runners, with lesser sledges for the
casional relief of cargo. With the exception Of
reduced allowances of powdered breadstuh and
| tallow we depended upon guns for FOOD but
small reserve Of Borden 5 meat biscuit was kept
unused for emergencies. Our clothing was rigor-
ousy limited TO our furs. We walked in carpet
moccassins.
Our greatest difficulty the passage Of an
extensive zone of ice which interviewed between
the brig and the nearest southern water.
Although this belt was but eighty-one miles in
linear extent, such the heavy nature Of the
ice and our difficulties Of transportation that its
transit cost us thiTty-onc days of labor and an
actual travel Of three hundred and sixteen miles
From Cape Alexander we advanced by boats,
with only occasional ice passages at the base OF
glaciers. At Cape York | erected a cairn and
pennant, with dispatches for the information Of
vessels crossing Melville bay, and then, after
cutting up my spare boat for fuel, embarked for
the North Greenland settlements.
We arrived at Upernvik las before stately on
the 9th Of August without disaster, and in excel
lent health and spirits. Throughout this long
journey my companions behaved with adm-
rable fortitude. ! should do them an injustice
if omitted TO acknowledge their fidelity TO my
self and gallant bearing in times Of privaiion and
danger.
From Upernvk took passage for England, in
the Danish brig Marannei but, most fortunately,
touching at Godhaon, (Disco,) we were met by
our gallant countrymen under Capt. Hartstene.
They had found tho ice Of Smiths Sound still
unbroken, but, having met the Esquimaux near
Cape Alexander, had heard Of our departure and
retraced their steps. They arrived at Disco but
twenty -four hours before our intended departure
for England. Under these circumstances, | con-
sidered i obligatory upon me TO withdraw my
contract for passage in the Marianne, and return
with the Release and Arctic.
The present season i regarded rs nearly equal
in severity TO its predecessors The ice TO the
north Is fearfully extended and the escape Of the
searching squadron from besetment is most pro-
vIdential Tho rand advance of winter had al