Lewisburg chronicle. [volume] (Lewisburg, Pa.) 1850-1859, 1855-07-13

i
season, the soil, and other circumstances
which control the ripening of wood. In
our climate Plums usually complete their
growth earlier than other fruit trees, and
are, therefore, budded first; We usually
have ripe buds by the middle Of July. In
some cases, when the stocks arc likely to
stop growing early, it becomes necessary
to take the buds before the entire shoots
have completed their growth, and then the
ripe buds from the middle and lower parts
are chosen. Cherries come next, aud are
generally worked about the 6rst Of August
The buds must be mature, or failure will
be certain.
In the third place, the stock must be in
the right condition-that is, the bark mus:
lift freely and cleanly from the wood. and
there must be sufficient quantity of sap
between the bark and wood to sustain tho
inserted bud and form a Union with it.
! Stocks, such as the common sorts Of Plum,
Pear, aud Cherry, that finish their growth
early must be worked early while such as
the Peach, Ounce, wild or native Plum,
.Huhaleb Cherry, &c, that grow late, must
be worked late If these stocks that grow
freely till late in the autumn be bud6ed
early, the buds will either be covered up
-"drowned," as it is technically called
by the rapid formation Of new woody sub
stance, or they will be forced out into
premature growth.
A very great degree of sappiness, in
either the stock or bud, makes up, in part,
for the dryuess Of the other. Thus, in tho
fall, when Plum bud. are quite dry, We
can work them successfully on stalks that
are growing rapidly. This is very for.
tuna;e circumstance, too. Young stocks
with smooth, clean bark, are more easily
aud successfully worked than older ones,
and when it happens that the latter have
to be used, young parts Of them should bs
chosen to insert the bud on.
In localities where the buds are liable to
injury from freezing and thawing in the
winter, the buds are safer en- the north
side Of the stock, and when exposed to
danger from wind, they should be inserted
on the side facing the point where tie most
dangerous wind blows from. Attention to
this point may obviate the necessity CITY.
ing up, which, in large practice,i, an item
of some moment.
In the fourth place the manual opera
ton must be performed with neatness and
dispatch. If bud be taken off with rag.
ged edges, or if it be ever so slightly bruis.
ed, or if the bark Of the stock be not lift.
ed clean without bruisiug the wood under
it, the case will certainly be failure.
The budding knife must be thin and sharp.
A rough edged razor is no more certain
to make painful shave, than rough
edged budding-knife is to make an unsuc-
cessful bud. 1t takes good knife, stes-
dy hand, aud considerable practice to cut
of buds handsomely, well, and quick. As
to taking out the particle Of wood attached
to the bud, it matters little, if the cut ba
good and not too deep. In taking out the
wood, great care is necessary to avoid take
ing the root Of the bud with it. Then,
when the bud is in its place, 1t must be
well tied up. Nice, smooth, soft strips Of
bark, like narrow ribbons, are the best and
most convenient in common use. Every
part of the cut must be wrapped so firm as
to exclude air completely; and this should
be done as quickly as possible, as the air
soon blackens the inner surface of the
bark, and prevents the perfect union Of the
new parts that are placed in contact.
We have thus stated briefly, for the be-
neft of beginners, the chief points that re.
quire particular attention in budding, or
incubation. Amateurs, who have little to
do, should choose the mornings and even
inss, or cloudy, cool days to do their bud.
Mng; but nurserymen must work in all
weathers, and in all hours of the day; but
their superior skill and quickness renders
it less hazardous. When only a few.stocks
are to be worked, and the weather happens
to be dry, a thorough watering or two will
be of great service in making the bark lift
freely-Tke Horticultural.