The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1854-03-27


From lie Follet.l
Fashions have an ncontsstable afRnity with the
other thus perceive that the vogue for trains queues
or mdnteau1 de conr has necessarily brought back orna
ments Of the last century, and feathers which for the
last fifty Fave been exclusively reserved for the
trimming of bonnets the hair great attrsc
ton, and accessory for ornauentng court full
ing dresses cannot be denied that the art Of prepar
ing these light and graceful articles has greatly
OF Late both respects the tntng and arranging the
elegant ostrich, the flexible marabout and
easy to trim with this aristocratical ornament
able and beautiful flowers Bouillonness Of crepe se
or tue, generally accompany the feather thinning and
nothing lighter or more graceful can be imagined than
this style Agrafes Of small feathers usually COM
posed Of three the ends Of which concealed under
rose, camella, or chrysa.themum, the color Of the
flower forming beautiful contrast with the dazzling
wilderness of the feathers
Before closing remarks upon the rentroduction OF
ornaments under new AUSPICES we must not omit 70 say
feathers Court dresses essential for bringing these
magnificent ornaments into fresh favor and nothing
dressed with either bird of paradise plume tied with
barbes of gold silver lace The eyes Of the bird
formed of brans and the gentle waving of the wings
renders this q most becoming couture.
With such coifures the richest robes Of mores dar
gent thick silks with velvet patterns woven in the mate
rial the most exquisite Brussels or Alencon lace should
be In the style, but lighter in texture
brocades Of silver and gold woven in bouquets OF spen
Ono @ ed Don o. mnGn n 10
pearance Of being applique on the robe.
Dresses for young ladies for balls sorees dansantes
velvet in colors Sometimes the velvets have patterns
in silver gold stamped upon them producing the effect
Of guipure
Nothing can be fresher or more elegant than robes Of
tule worked with velvet flowers Plain taetas also
much in demand, with founces printed with wreaths Of
In promenade dresses plain tissues appear destined
open the spring season The bodies high with bias
qunes Notwithstanding the continuation Of cold wealth
er, many Of fashionables may be in peisses
man'ec's and paressus among which the newest style
have is the pardessus Bizantn bearing slight
80 clo IT,,
fawnccored cachemire, with broad border of velvet
The sleeves in large plas the shoulder and are
s not
The oblgeante is kind Of very small mantelet, to be
thrown the shoulders indoors; is also made OF
yhemire and ornamented with embroidery and braid
Ball dresses occupy much attention at the present time
and the Empress Eugene who is noted for good taste
gives much employment both for the display Of elegance
and STYLE by the various costumes she Is constantly
adopting. At ball lately given she seen in simple
but beautiful toilette composed Of white Grape dress
with three founces the edge Of each wreath Of
sweet peas bouquet Of the flowers placed the
corsage and another fastened by comb at the back
Of the head and long punches falling loosely over the
beautiful robe may be made of blue tulle with three
skirts the two upper ones raised on one side with bou
quets Of small blue feathers separated by sheaf Of
corpfowcrs in diamonds. The flowers in diamonds
ornament the front Of the body which is draperie.
Small tufts of blue feathers placed very backward each
side of the hair, with ornaments in diamonds.
At the late court balls flowers predominated in all
styles of toletes Robes Of tue had the ounces
here there with small branches Of heath others in
place of the same, trimmed with vioets, resembling
parerre Of flowers The couture is coronet of violets
mixed with of corn composed of diamonds slightly
in the Ceres FORM Bouquets Of volets and diamonds
the corsagc drape A robe of pink Grape, with three
skirt raised on one side nearly to the waist by bouquets
Of lilac The body drape with three very small wreaths
crossing the plas at the waist which spread shape
The fashion for ounces has become general both for
ball and walking dresses the elegance depending the
variety and richness of the ornaments.
A he Of wh nj With a ahouf
ter of yard in depth round the bottom spotted with
small abilles bows Of white satin ribbon worked with
width, covered with three of blonde between each
of which is row of rings of the same ribbon slightly
raising the edge of the blonde and forming light and
graceful trimming the f0unces; this is another
bouionnee to match that the bottom of the skirt but
narrower; and founce, like the described above is
fastened in at the waist berthe to match the founce
descends the body; and bouillionnee
covers the opening in front Sleeves Of narrow bou
lcnnees and bows The couture that accompanies this
toilet is plume Of white feathers mixed with flowers in
diamonds.
Bonnets graceful than ever, although placed
rather back the head. The crowns have but little
ornament all the trimming being bestowed the 'front.'
especially the edges which almost always orna-
mented with ruches of blonde. ribbons, feathers.
Concert boDnets made entirely Of lace, lame
velvet trimmed with feathers The inside ornaments
blonde flowers or gauze ribbon, worked with gold.
very pretty and elegant bonnet Is composed of pink
tulle bononnee, each bouillonnee separated by
gathered blonde Two lunches Of white and shaded
pink feathers placed each side of the front unit
ed behind by wreath of feathers the
tain. bow of pink tafeas ribbon with long ends be-
hind. Trimming of blond, mixed with coques OF pink
Pink, blue, and felt-colored velvet are much en-
poyed for bonnes, trimmed with feathers, velvet flow
ribbon.
CoiiTures much in vogue, and Of infinite variety
The rounds of silver guipure very elegant. They
the back Of the head like the crown of small cap
terminating in points, which are slightly raised by
wreath of roses punches of the flowers placed
between the bandeaux and knot of the back hair. On
the middle Of the round bow Of silver guipure the
ends Of which fall the shoulders; of COM
posed Of emerads escape from the punches of
each side, and hang lightly the neck.
The reside of pearls is very elegant, in the middle of
which is broad pale blue ribbon bow with very long
ends reaching the waist each side branches of coques
of ribbon are fastened with astar Of pearls
Nesliges capotes of black plush are worn, trimmed
round with ruches Of pink ribbon with black edge
ruche fuller than the one at the edge of the bonnet
the head and is fastened under the curtain which
is also trimmed with very ruching of ribbon
punches of field in velvet with Grape foliage mixed
with blonde, inside.
chestnut colored plush bonnet also trimmed with
ruche OF blue ribbon but in place of the second ruche
single iris flower ornaments each side double row
Of of marrow blue ribbon inside between ruches
OF tuile
The make of negiges dresses alters but little The
bodies always made to open close at will the
chest, and invariably terminate with basques The
sleeves vary infinitely and always accord with the style
of robe In rich materials, such velvet, &c, the
Spanish sleeve is much in favor The mousquetaire
Iagoda sleeve continues to be adopted simple
the most graceful and easy of harmonising with half
dressed oiees The edges Of the sleeves and cuffs
richly ornamented, and match the trimming on the
basques.
Dresses made very long especially those destined
Tor indoors, when they form short train behind In
order to give width at the bottom and sustain the full
plas they are heavy tafetas skirts with two
founces these skirts do not exclude those made of
brio muslin trimmed with deep embroidery, which
indispensable m distinguished toilettes
As visiting dresses, the robes nauds greatly ad-
mired. We have of these of black brocade with
bouquets in shades of violet The front of the skirt has
three OF violet satin bows with black velvet designs
stamped the rbbon each bow is fastened in the mid
die with an agrafee Of black velvet The bows four
coques with two ends not longer than the bows but fall
ing towards the bottom Of the Dress and diminishing in
size they approach the waist they form apron and
terminate under the basques, which trimmed round
plated ribbon a ruche formed OF three black
laoes. The body is very open the chest and the
rever trimmed to match the basques held together
by an echelle oil three ribbon bows showing the chem
settle between each The sleeves slashed and
united by bows Large collar and under sleeves of gut
pure embroidered muslin.
Robes of black dark .coored MORE antique, form
DeVliges with three rows