The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1854-09-22


quiDs Is vsEsd as the oorssss sosnss rounded and
shaped tn eraosfu fuDess 70 at over the folds o.
TIE sk'rt open ~ ,bs hips, cut In Spanish syls
with broad SQUIRE lsppet., or marked With double
founce psuts, ut the back formed Ike ridisg hasN
In lev instances the French dart-that Il the dart
seam-sxtepd pg from the waist to the shoulder. hes
SUI erseced the more prevailing mode. THIS style
Il very graceful particularly sheo the seam Ia left
~ together by gold cords nierlsony piece Of
richly BIT Insertion passes under The network Ard
szh.it. strong relief Some close the sniog with
wing Of different crior and the effect Is pretty aogei
and striking If the dress is lilac blue silk putting
Of whi,e satin forms pleasing contrast thu dress
Of black silk Epgh ORE antiq tint cherry
color Ia irsby but the have black
AID an Oriental piexion aud stv ef atores let hsr
choose coored satin, aud the eGest viii be e;ec
trio TIE sleeve Il Invariably MAJ TO agree With ths
basque, iIteraced with gold silk cord closet With
the inserted pufpg Of contrasting color these dresses
call memory sashed robes and doubl.ts of cectu
ries ago, rni II Fancy could cheat well as che Is
famed TO d., might watt back 70 those happy days
when did calcal to The dep.a of ldy's purse
an when woDan's lips were ,pprofansd by that hate
full phrase, breac OF promise"
r. oueh The basque waist said before Ia the pre-
vape IT i not The universal mode, for many dresses
made open in the back style which Is insidausiy
and secr,, vorsipg its way upwards again and which
doub, not will in time regain its former popularity
LEES resey than the open front II more yosth
tal icokog, when simplicity Is the order of the day
wih be IN the ascendant.
Sleeves t,how every viii hici OF maker or wcaer;
they made Of full flowing rues trimmed vita fringe
nrhe and they made short ard pulled with rio
boo b - and long doating ends Son worn plain
with VaD6,le cuff, and formed by tSo or three
Loaiios divided by bands Then theeo are
rompacouT sleeves psgcda sleeves Spanish sleeves in
den'c at the Sc IL. battlsnented iurret and sleeves
la page pulled the top, the rest being open, and
f.iur in graceful folds that half veil aud halt tsplay
the beauty OF the Plain skrts considered dow
OWEN vua .r and not to be endured From the hem to
the waist they with hounces; three
sy must equsl in length and fainess second
ssi II hre seven, they graduated, the top OF
the Upper jest sheltered by the sweeping fall of the
basque As profuse OF ornament aud triumtng
charac e:isc Of tbs present fashion, the unces are
cupsder TO plsin, unless edged with ruches or sce
or fringe or velvet The peignoir style, opening
from the waist TO tie hem, and revealing the
fouuce embroidered underskrt to which is attach
cd BY Rows Of ribbon Is lady like and elegant but with
the dsac Of being less suited to the street than
the house Tho skirts are long, rather trail
ing the shoes pointed st the toes they we're In
the ssytbtcenth ceStury. This. with crnoioe petit
coats skirts lined with stiff muslin strengthened with
TO IS ce ,ice straw douuces stir buck fore
shadow q return 10 tho hoops and farthngales which
used 20 excite our rdiculo and laughter. True they
bsve appeared Ia New York yet but they have In
Peris aud can NC eccount ourselves safer
Our fashions are exotic-.from London and Paris
we've gotten them a." If the Parisans stand s we
are imnoyabs; IL they retrograde, fall bxcx In
star,.r; IL they rteuscitate buried fashion, We ad
niso The nptque II they hit upon something unmis
as tabiy Eoacrp ezcaim against old styles Gothic
grd harbRTous.
Now to 10 away Nth this to obvate the necessity Of
dependrg Europe, modistes should take council
together should establish court Of fashis 10 New
YORK which uld take cognxancs Of everything rela
ting interchange ideas, carry out suggcstons
decide upon al matters appcr aiming to their bus
VIII interesting discussions they would have on
tbs Of ccIsagc the snaps Of bonnet the hue Of
flbton or the er,n OF sleeve Night not dress
akers and rniliners too elicit something from the
clash Ct conflicting ideas and might not the crude aud
imperfect fances OF nind be maurei by another into
fuuuea Of beauty unthougtt Of ct nrst and thus all
would Be ben.Gt.ed Its deees would have the forco
Of laws ud extend from Malice to Texas from the
Atlantic the PsciGc and Its meetings would bs looked
forward to by fashionab bel es with anxiety
than ever politician looked to tho assembling of the
collective wisdom Of the country. And it would
have ttler matters to adujicate upon, besides ths
eDgth of jupe the style Of collar Il could test
systems and revise old prices arrange the mbcr
OF apprentices be received BY each dis
counter .ocs that runous spirit of compot ion that
courts by dragging down prices self lows and
social tho same" is msxio that Is true II
writ in prose- What Injuries one, Injuries oil;
prices Improve any oae's condition, ami fom,e
labor scany remupe-ated Of the best of times This
idea Of national convention Of dressmsksrs and mil
liners adopt scale of prices and regulate other mat
connected with the we'll being of their society is de-
sewing Of attention Strange that dressmakers, com
plat, log they do and good grounds Of wreched
CON peLystion ending TOLL have not rganSod
| such society.
| BALL DRESSES.
Embroidered auslins, crapa savle sne, te and silks
Of decete hues used ball dresses. Tao corsass
foe The most approved tie centre of the c,rsags
being ornaTnented with bouquet Of flowers chosen 10
suit the eor Of r. dress Lace founoes almost
| the s.ir and around the top Of each Aounce
! wreath Of atlicste or glowing bio SONS.
| HEAD DRESSES.
| This brings novelty in head dresses the
materials the samo--fowcrs lace. chenille and rib
bon form the staple. combination Of lace md rib
bon male very suitable head dresses for elderly ladies'
and tbs youthful paronze wrcaths OF 40 sers
! snowy planes OF marabout and ostrich feathers.
HAIR DRESSING.
There ~ nothing much rbutes to give tone and
elesar to laays Appearance beco.ag style OF
hair dressing without t. the most recherche tot Is
nooplete. II 1t be true the poct says that teauty
crsws ~h single hair" well dressed hcsd OF hair
must be magnet Of ordinary power Yet tits amsg
net that very acy may possess But 1t win not do to
arrange the bsir only in accordance with the newest
fashion. There cannot be greater mistake than to
suppose the style will suit every face. A lady
should have hr hair dressed to nerec With her exprcs
sion e coun'epance ard ahe has not taste and dis
elimination enough know the proper style she shoud
trust 70 artist Of reputation s tho riamph OF
his srtthis Is tee true tect of his skill The other de-
tails merely mech anicathey kocp the fingers busy
but this CALI for higher qualities
The following styIes of wearing the hair have
cciyed from ibbiee Of Broadway, authority para
mount on hose rnattcrl in the "a aionaAe aor,d