The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1854-03-19

small spring heated; tea was made. Jose pr
duced bread and cheese from his saddle wallets
which he placed upon clean cloth over trunk ant
looking into the tent, he says" Seaor, Ia bora d
cena"-Sir. it is the hour Of supper Both men ant
beasts seem tired, after ascending all day, and the
first days travel always the most harassing. Ou
arriero, Francisco, is small, slim built man, witt
respectful manners; he and his little son Ignacio
keep watch by turns over the mules. The night was
clear and cold, the moon shining brightly. The
world is not silent in the middle Of the ocean.
do not think heard anything. almost listened t.
hear the globe turn upon its axis. Long after the
people asleep heard little Ignacio singing to
himself wrapped up in his homespun poncho as he
followed the mules.
At daylight in the morning we found heavy frost
and ice about us, with the thermometer at "a deg
and wet bulb 80 deg. The mules were loaded, break
fast over, observations made, and we were of soon
after sunrise. This is the way to travel at eleva
ton where we find no inhabitants
The mountains are becoming more rounding and
ovcred witch fine sort of grass Sheperdesses are
following thousands Of sheep and lambs The girls
spin wool and chat together, while the dogs follow
lazy after.
Here comes cheerful party of Spanish Creole la
dies and gentlemen on horseback. As we pass each
other the gentlemen take off their hats, and the la
dies look prettily under their white straw ones.
Inelr HgureS SNOW 10 advantage III TlulIg uTeSseS,
and they manage and sit their horses well. The
cool mountain air gives them fresh color, which
contrasts well with gazelle-eyed beauty and long
black hair thought their dresses rather short; but
sight of the foot of Of them, small as it was,
reminds there is proof positive against the pro-
priety Of mans travelling through this world
alone.
Crossing a small ridge on the east we came in full
view of the great valley of Iuaja, stretching away
south. The snowypeaks are represented ina sketch
from orr camD near the town.
Iuaja has population Of about twenty-five hun
bred inhabitants. say about, because there is no
such thing as census known at this elevation. The
houses are built one story, Of adobe wall, or of
unburnt bricks, and tile roofs; the streets are we
paved, and at right angles with each other. The
Indians come to church and market at the same time
Sunday morning being market day. drove of
horses miserable little rats the horse of the low
ands and coasts are much their superior.
Men live to good old age in this climate; seven
ty eighty, and ninety years. are common; some have
arrived at one hundred and twenty and one hundred
and thirty. am under the impression that the In
dams live longest Mestzo and Spanish Creole
girls have been known to bear children at eight and
nine years Of age.
Jose's wife and children came to the tent, and
brought us supper, and lucerne for our mules. One
of the sons fine looking boy of eighteen volun-
teered to go with me. Jose desired should let him
go, and had no objection; but when his mother
came to ask me If i was not satisfied to take her
husband without taking her and only protector,
referred Jose and his son to her. She settled the
case in her own way, and gave me her blessing.
Silver mines exist three miles to the east of Iuaja,
in the Ande range, but have been abandoned. Some.
contain water, while others have been exhausted
Wool and eggs are the principal exports to the sea-
port Of Caao the latter are passed round the coun-
try as current money or coins some time before they
are sent over the Cordilleras to be eaten. Three
fresh eggs will buy sxpence worth of anything in
the market of Iuaja, while the same number OF bad
noes bring shilling in Lima Coarse cotton and
woollen cloths are retailed among the people at
enormous profits. The Indians prefer blue and scar
let coors.
Our road lies through a rich valley, often four
miles wide, and level as floor. Gangs. of Indians
are engaged threshing barley, which is separated
from the straw by the tramping of oxen and
horses. The grain is cleaned from the chat by be-
ing poured from the top Of a mans head on windy
day; many of them suffer with infamed eyes, and
even lose them sometimes by shift of wind which
blows the barley boards into the eyes.
Black cattle are numerous here and at the foot of
the mountains; so are white churches, which stand
in the midst of thick population Of Indians Tax
gatherers going among the threshers with silver
of contribution money. They are old Indians, very
well dressed, with standing collars and broad brm
med hats. 1t is an active time with the priests Also
who 60 abroad among the farmers for tithes.
The valley is all activity, and many are the peo-
ple-women are visiting about from place to place,
astrde of plump little jackasses This is plcnt-
full season.
When the crops fail on these table lands, the suf-
fering among the Indians is very great. Seed time
is in September, just before the rains commence.
Ii there hard osts in February, the chances are
that famine follows.
The mestizos are shOemakers, blacksmiths and
sadders; they seem fond of music and dancing, and
assume the pride of superior, and lord it over the
honest Indian.
The mountains on both sides are dry and unpro-
ductive except in the ravines. The half yearly dis
placement of earth is very great. During the rainy
season the mountain torrents come down from the
summit loaded with soil. The decrease in the size
of the mountains from the time Of their creation TO
the present day, and the filling up of the basin,
naturally leads one to wonder whether the present
valley was not once a lake.
The Iuaia river which takes its rise in lake Chin
chaycocha to the north Of Tarma, flows siuggishly
and serpentlke through the whole length Of the
valley, and creeping through the Andes, suddenly
rushes off ut rapid rate, though sensible of its
long journey, by the Ucayali and Amazon to the At
lantic ocean; These waters descend over 1000
feet before they mngle with the briny deep Ap-
pie trees are the size of raspberry bushes; How
ers give the valley fresh appearance, but the sun
is very warm as we pace along dusty road. There
few varieties Of birds in the valley; some pigeons
and doves keep the table pretty well supplied.
AL the towns on the Puna"-as the Spaniards
call the table ands-are built much after the same
fashion, and of the same materal the only differ.
ence in their outward appearance being produced
by the cultivation of foliage and flowers, where the
climate and soil permit. When this is not the
case, the town presents stupid, uninterestng as
pect. Children, dogs and pigs, earthen pots, and
Deus Vi StraW, SURROUND q smoking IRE Oh JIG
ground floor of a oneroomed house; the smoke es-
capes through the doorway, the only opening for
light or change of air. During storms, or at
night, the doorway closed by raw-hide; one peep
inside satisfies the North American he can find no
rest there.
The affection the different species Of animals have
for one another on these heights is remarkable The
dog, in any other place, will sometimes kill and eat
the sheep; mere he protects it by night qd by day.
The pig forms an attachment to the jack ass, who
leaves it at this season of the year for the fe-
male of his own kind. The ram becomes intimate
with the horse or bull and it is with difficulty they
can be separated. The lamb follows the Indian girl,
in direct disobedience and neglect of its mothers
call. Domestic cats are few; they cannot live on
/ high elevations
Droves of jackasses pass, loaded with small raw
| hide bags, filed with quicksilver from the mines
of Huancavelica on their way to the silver mines OF
/ Cerro de Pasco.
Descending the river, We came to beautiful white.
washed new stone bridge, with arch, thirty feet
above the stream. Paying toll Of shilling per