The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1854-11-05

and one or two neighooring villages IN Hesno ana LOT
Guilty. Two or three houses in Glasgow were N
the habi Of sending over TO collect the work, small
and the remainder was slowly absorbed by the con.
of England The great mechanical improvements
II s s
mills by the principal manufacturcrSof Belfast rapidly
superseded the Of the honored spinning wheel
larger OF Belfast Dundee and other seats Of the
linen manufactures those numerous Artixans and fac
tory workers which there ma emRioy%sn1s Those
poets love 10 paint and admirers OF the good old times"
are fond Of depicting received their when
the spinning ceased to give forth its accustomed
music in the cottages OF contented peasantry large
proportion Of the most interesting Of the population Ok
Ireland thus deprived Of their &c o
dustry, and from preparing the rude yarns for the
spinner they quickly became expert in cmbrciderng
with the finest OF threads the most delicate and elaborate
designs upon the gossamery muslin From preparing
the raw material the females of Ireland thus advanced
AZ ona s,c, THIS the most exquisite and elegant, de-
scription of manufacture Creoss sue aa Ky "a, r
stances surprising, the skill VIVA wy "
males Of Ireland and Scotland spun the faxcn yarns the
manner in which the finer descriptions OF embroidery
are worssa py them affords nGt Tess PROOF
and Of the aptitude which they possess for adapting
themsclycsto any description of work which bears
prospect Of remuneration At the present moment the
embroidered musins Of ireland and Scotland eager
ly sought after in almost all markets OF the world; the
United States are customers TO the value or quar-
ter Of a million sterling annually; in France, notwith
standing the excessive rates Of duty upon Importation
they successfully compete with the home-produced
Lace and in Italy and the Southern STATES OF Eu
the greater cheapuess and superiority OF the work
ensures it n ready and extensive market.
Perhaps the greatest stimulus which the trade has yet
received has from the facilities afforded by the
photographic press for printing upon the musns tho
patterns to be embroidered by the workers Within
the last few months steam has been applied to the
photographic presses for printing upon paper
dy the power ia applied for the printing Of pat
terms upon muslin in the most successful manner sA
extensive establishment Of Messrs. Brown Co., at
Glasgow where were six of the largest photographic
presses and number of smaller ones constantly
poyed in printing by tens of thousands day the
red patterns required for distribution over nearly the
cien TO keep pace with the demand and new appliances
are contemplated, by which a continuous supply Of
the sheets Of the Morning Chronicle The numerous
appliances for carrying on this interesting branch Of
industry which to be found collected beneath one
roof can be but family conceived by those who have
not been favored with an inspection Of one Of these
gigantic establishments. In part, room after
Is filled with persons engaged in producing designs from
the most simple to the most elaborate and costly cha
racter Here is design for ladies' collars, the muslin
for which is to be sent to Ireland distributed over the
country collected, examined, paid for, returned to
Scotland bleacied washed, ironcd, marked, stamped,
entered, and finally sold for five farthngs. Here
again is design for embroidered pocket handker-
chiefs to be sold at s. the dozen; by the side lies
the elaborate design of the pocket handkerchief made
for the great exhibition and which was sold for 60 gu
others chate beautiful and elegant in their cha
racter, ranging from to 20 guneas collars from the
plain neat demure looking Of farthings up to
Sos. and guineas In this branch alone there is
poymcnt for from so to 100 youths and But from
whence all these patterns and pattern drawers and
designers Marlborough house with att its practical
art and its immense absorption of public funds, pro-
vdcs and in the crowded designing room Of this
immense establishment there is scarcely who
has studied in school Of design There shreds OF
ribbons and pieces Of lace and printed goods, and
paper hangings which, collected from all quarters OF
he 9ss 70 IL
to elaborate fill up, and adapt to the requirements OF
this special branch Of industry No genius however in
ventiye, could keep pace with the demand made upon
his fertile pencil and the pedant in art who would in
sis upon originality in every arrangement of sprig or
dot or rose, upon adys collar may bcake himself to
cline very far removed from this country, and where
the wants and tastes of its unsophiscatcd Inhabitants
are much less numerous and capricieus.
else for the purpose of multiplying the patterns
duced by the designers but zincography, woodcutting
each and all brought into operation occasion requires
One mode of stereotypng pattern Is unique and novel
Upon block of lime wood Is traced the pattern which
Is required TO be brought out in metal The block Is
placed beneath needle heated to redness by small
argand burner. The needle secured in small machine
is raised depressed by the action of the foot of the
artist and the block Of wood moved about the
gLraon OF the pattern requires is pierced and cut by
the heated needle till the whole pattern is cut into the
block. The molten lead and bismuth is into every
of the inerstices, and stereoyped pattern is pro-
duced, from which thousands Of copies may be printed
block printing by hand is sti adopted, the pat
terms extend over lengths of from six to ten
improvement
has been effected; small roller, with the pat.
tern engraved upon it. aud which is linked by an
upper roller is made to transverse upon wheels, and
prints the pattern upon the muslin il passes the
whole length Upon every piece Of muslin is printed at
the time with the pattern the date the time to be
occupied in completing the work, and the price to be
paid for when delivered good condition TO the agent
Thus all mistakes and causes Of disafecon avoided
and by taking the work distinct and ineligible con-
For the distribution and collection Of the work most
complete and efficient system exists Referring again to
%1,n tah ANT f Rrpxw fharn ,v
nection with this house ten central agencies established
in Ireand-at Belfast, Donegal Donaghadee, Armagh
ford. There are attached to these agencies upwards
of four hundred collectors who carry the work to the
dwellings Of the workers, and call at stated periods to
collect when finished Each piece of work receives the
private mark Of the agent denoting its quality and
every week the whole of the work collected is sent
to Scotland whence II is despatched to the bieacher
with whom it remains for period ranging from to
six weeks, according to the of business and other
matters About million Of money is annually turned
in the embroidery trade Of Ireland, four hs Of which
is estimated being expended in payments Of the work
done by the female population OF the country The
year. and in Scotland eco 900 year. payment the
work given out by their establishment The average
earnings Of the workers vary considerably according to
ability. Some OF the younger and most inexperienced
hands will not earn more than Is week, while OF
the FIRST class hands from 10s to 12s The extent
to which the work Is appreciated and sought after is suf
fcent evidence of its value while the great competi
ton for labor which exists among many influential
houses has sauary effect In keeping up the scale Of
unknown in the counties Of Donegal and Ferrnanagh
agents rival houses the counties in every
direction advcrtises that he requires thousand
workers. another two thousand and third offers to teach
the work gratis to any one who win apply at his Office
Many Of the Disadvantages attending the congregation Of
large numbers Of workers at extensive mills and facto
RES avoided by the performance OF this description
Of labor by the at their houses and upon the
other hand, those evils which, in the OF straw
plating and glovemakng in the agricultural districts of
England witnessed in the neglect Of household du
ties, and the education of the younger children
psratvey Of occurrence, owing to the in
which the work is usually carried on. Instead of the
child almost soon as it can being taught to plat
sent to school only to learn the trade the case
in Bedfordshrc Hertfordshire Bucks and other coun
ties, where every member of the family is engaged from
morning until night to the exclusion Of aifnportant
household duties, portion Of the family only
gagged in the embroidery work the domestic duties Of the
cottage attended to by other members Of the family
BY this arrangement education is not necessarily inter
fered with, and household duties not neglected.
Where English Rags are Going to.
EDITOR THE LONDON NEWS.