New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1854-01-26
Netu;2lork Daily Gribn,te.
BAYARD TAYLOR'S LETTERS.
SCENES IN BENARES.
Editorial Correspondence ofthe N Y. Tribune.
A"''N''' RrN.pps India

Wednesday, Feb. l6, 1853.
AT noon, on Monday left the hOspitable roof of Mr.
Owen, at Allahabad On reaching the Ganges, found
the drawbridge open, and string of upward bound
vessels passing through. There were thirtynine in ALL
snd go slowly were they towed against the stream that
full two hours elapsed and still sat there in the heat
contemplating the white and glaring sandfats OF the
spposite shore. There was end OF It, at last my
rarree was pushed across and over the sands, by
crowd of eager coolies and having attained the hard,
uscadamized road, shaded by umbrageods peepul and
seem trees whirled away rapidly toward Benares
Div road lay along the northern bank of the Ganges
through very rich and beautiful country. The broad
fields of wheat and barley coming into head, were
picturesquely broken by "topes" of the dark mango
or the feathery tamarnd and groves of the brab palm
II was land of harvest culture, with all the grace of
sylvan adornment which distinguishes paik OF
pleasure
The road was thronged with pilgrims returning
from the great mela or fair, OF Alahabad. during
the afternoon passed many thousands, who appeared
10 be Of the lowest and poorest castles OF the Hndoos
They all carried earthen jars, filed with the sacred
water of the Junction, (of the Gauges and Jumna,)
which they were taking to pour upon the shrines OF
Benares or Byznath At the stations where changed
Horses they crowded around the garree, begging vo-
.iferously: great being an aims for Sivas sake "
One balfnaked dark-eyed boy of ten years accosted
me in fluent Arabic exclaiming 40 great lord, may
Peace repose upon your turban y with such grace
full and persuasive air. that he did not need 20 ask
twice But for the Others 1t necessary to be both
blind sad deaf for there no charm in the serpent
armed DESTROYER to extort what had been given in the
sacred name of Peace. AS night approached the
crowds thickened, and the yels Of my driver opened
a way through their midst for the rapid garree'
They moved in cloud of dust, of their own raising,
and had no comfort until the darkness obliged them
to halt bs the roadside and around the villages after
which the atmosphere became clearer, and the road
was tolerably free from obstruction
The horses however, gave me no peace, and every
change at the relay stations, seemed to be for the
worse After banking at the start they would dash
of in fury making the body of the garree swing from
side to side at every bound till crash of some kind
appeared inevitable One of these careers was through
long and crowded village, in which market was be-
ing held. l did not count how many tmesm flying
wheels grszed the piles of earthenware and the heaps
ofgrain and vegetables, but know that there were
screams Of alarm, gesticulations fright and confusion
from one end of the village TO the other and how we ran
the gauntlet without leaving wake of ruin behind us,
Is mystery which cannot explain. | gradually be-
came too weary to notice these alterations OF the pro
peng force and sinking down into the bottom of the
gar1ee, fell into sleep from which was awakened at
midnight by the drivers voice. / looked out saw a
large Gothic church before me, in the moonlight and
knew by that token that the goal reached
Yesterday morning called upon my countryman,
Mr. Fitz-Edward Hall. 10 whom l had letters aud, ac-
eordiug 10 Indian custom, Immediately received the
freedom of bis bungalow. Mr. Hall is Professor Of
Sangcrt in the Sanscrt College at this place, and en-
ioTs liqb and deseryed reputation throughout lnliA
or his stainments not only in the classic language of
he Ersbmins. bu slso - tho H.nji and Ufda tongues