The western Democrat. [volume] (Charlotte, N.C.) 1852-1870, 1854-03-03
Rough Notes OH the Andes.

Beta, Ceniaur-n latitude 10 30 south, situated
IN rich, well cultivated, narrow valley, between
the Andes range OF mountains on the east and The
lofty CordlIlera chain on the west,
On the 9th July, 1851, the writer turned south
east, accompanied by Henry G. Richards. native
Of Virginia, in the United States, and Jose Casas,
of Spanish descent, native Of Peru. volunteer
mestizo arrero, with his little son, drove train
Of mules which carried the baggage. Our path
shaded by willow trees and The way oDstructed
with droves Of iamas, loaded with rock salt from
mines in the neighborhOod. The leaves of the
trees seemed calling for water, while the tempera-
| ture of the air at md day in the shade SO
Fahrenheit. Peach and apple tree leaves doubled
up, showing both their edges to the sun; the fruit
is small, Oblong, and unthrity looking. The
ravIne through which we ascend is thickly popu.
lated with Quichua Indians. Their houses are
built Of stone and wood and thatched with coarse
mountain grass. The natives are busily en-
pIoyed gathering the harvest Of maize, which is
small grained, and of four colors, red, white, yell
| low, and blue. 1t of excellent quality, gene
rally used as food, roasted or parched. Potatoes,
OF which there are numerous varieties are all now
gathered. They grow in perfection, though much
smaller than their descendants in the United States.
The little estates (chacras) are owned by descend
ants of Spaniards, Indians, Mestizos-the latter
a cross between the two former. In almost all
cases the cultivation Of the soil is performed by
a day.
As we rise above the foliage the mountain tops
begin To look wild and barren, with rocks and red
clay. Below we have beautiful view of the town
oS Tarma, amidst its green trees and pasture fields.
My mule Rose pants for breath she is so fat and
plump that the climbing troubles her. On the
| mountain side is seated fine looking Indian,
blowing somi circular shaped trumpet, made Of
a number of cows horns slipped one into the other,
IL tl- Id Il
particular about the tune ns he does to the distance
he NAV be heard, and he makes the valley ring.
Jose thinks he is trying TO blow up a wedding with
fair one among the flowers below. The Indians
! celebrate harvest time with merry making. Their
meals are cooked in the fields, where their kitchen
utensils are carried. They have music and dancing
! in the barley stubble 1t is amusing to see these
happy people enjoying themselves in the open air
pasS-the reapers seated near the road in
barley. field at dinner upon The ground, in rows
one behind The other, laughing and talking among
themselves. When we meet them they are very
civil, modest, and unassumng in manners. The
men carry enormous loads of barley whea: on
their backs while the women drive the loaded ass
and sling the children over their own shoulders.
Their horses, mules, sheep, horned cattle, pigs,
and dogs all admitted together with the family
into the harvest field. While the father reaps
and mother gathers, the boys tend the hocks, and
the elder girls take care of the babies and the
cooking, at the same time they spin woollen
yarn by hand for stockings. One of them offered
Il pair for sale al twenty.i five cents, which were
nearly long enough for trousers. They are always
empoyed-go to bed early and rise before the
! sum- as their 1ncas Taught them TO do.
At The top of the mountain not house or tree
was be and no sign OF cultivation. On
tufts of coarse mountain grass flock of sheep
were gruzng, some of them Merinos and of good
size Their wool is sent TO Lima, where II is sold
to be exported around Cape Horn 10 the manulac-
turers in he north.
To the cast is a snow.peaked mountain, and
the moon rises, as If from the Atlantic ocean, we
are followed by cold north wind. The sky is
clear, and OF deep b.ue. On our left we see the
remains of an ancrn! Peruvian road, used IN the
times of the Incas. 1t is said that good roads are
marks OF civilization could my mule Rose give
her opinion, she would certainly decide in favor
Of the Inca road in preference to those lound III
Peru at the present time. These remains show
width of thirty feet OF rock pavement, with we'll
placed curhstone on each side. Where the road
has considerable inclination rows of stone are
placed across, higher than the general level OF the
pavement, so that it appears like stairway on
the side of a hill. That it not a coach road
is no argument against it. 1t was made before the
horse, The ass, or the COW introduced into
South America from Europe. 1t was constructed
lOr the Indian and his lama, who is the surest OF
the sure footed, and therefore the improvement
speaks we'll for the civilization of those times, of
which we have but tradiiionary record.
Passing over plain on the mountain top, there
was a cistern by the side Of our path where water
is caught during the rainy season 10 supply the
thirsty, in the dry. The rainy season commences
here about the middle of September, sometimes
later, and lasts six months The remainder Of the
year is dry.
Night had overtaken US where not living thing
was TO be seen except black eagle returning TO
its roosting place under overhanging rocks. Ga
The west side of lofty peak little tent
pitched; the baggage piled up and covered at the
door; the mules let free for the nj ght 10 feed upon
he mountain grass around US. fire was kindled
and wafer from small spring heated; tea was
made. Jose produced bread and cheese from his
saddle wallets, placed upon clean cloth over
runk Looking into the tent, he says, very slowly,
Senor, la hora de cena"-sir, it is the hour of
supper. Both men and beasts seem tired We
have ascended all day. The first days travel is
always the most harassing. Our Arriero Fran
cisco, mestizo, is small slim built man, with
respectful manners; he and his little son lgnacio
ieep watch by turns the mules. The lille {
10Y is out while his father gets supper. The night
vas clear and cold, the moon shining brightly.
The wor is not silent in the middle of the
cean. do not think heard anything. | almost 7
stcned TO hear the globe turn upon its axis Long
Tier The people asleep little Ignacio was c
ingiug TO himself, wrapped up in bis home. spun c