New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1854-08-15
COSTA RIGA.
by A FORMER BRITISH CONSUL.

came in view Of the land with all the Passengers
crowding the decks to gaze at the welcome sight
How interesting the meres speck Of land becomes az
ter monotonous sea voyage! how quickly the weary
spirits revive as the longing eye rests on the green
trees and verdant meadows The Joy which filed
the bosom Of every one on board literally clothed
with beauty the low, sandy coast which lay before
u.s. stretching far To the NORTH with the dense tropical
forest in the back ground and each, the steamer
rapidly nesred the land, congratulated himself aud
his neighbor at the pleasant prospect Of pla
cling his feet again on old mother earth. AT last
with hearty cheer from the passengers, we let the
anchor drop in the harbor Of Greytosn.
The harbor Of Greytown is spacious, with good
anchorage bottom. II is formed by the mouth of the
river st. Juan, the right bank Of which describes
curve toward the north projecting into the sea sort
Of jetty CT sand parallel to the coast The waters of
the barbor at all times fresh and it is from their
bosom that the steamers and trading vessels repensh
their tanks. The town, seen from the steamer is
assemtlaee of scattered wooden houses the ap.
pearance of which is cherries in the extreme; but
what land is not pleasant after sea voyage,
As we came TO anchor all hustle on board of the
steamer, each preparing TO leave. was extremely
anxious TO get shore but boat was at hand and
was just making up my mind to wait patiently until
an Opportunity offered, when man-O wars boat came
alongside to inquire whether the British Consul for
Costa Rica was on board, and thus through the kind
ness OF this gentleman was enabled to land without
further delay and find before dark convenient place
TO pass the night in.
The next morning Mr. De C... and myself
went 20 the beach TO examine the boat in which
70 ceDd the San Juan and the Sarapqu Rivers
and acknowledge that we both felt rather uneasy at
the prospect oil cDD6diDg our persons to such mis-
cradle Choking specimen of boat. 1t was huge
tree followed out the prov looking sideways, as if
DESTROYS TO Turn back while the slightest movement
would set it a-rolling in most alarming manbcr its
length about twenty-five feet and its width not
more than fOur but were fain to be content when
assured that the Sarapiqu is usually navigsted with
far smaller boats, and that the small the
safest ard sWiitest.
The weather was very bad as it generally is at Grey
town ali the year round, but especially during
the month OF November. We had to stand in the
heavy rain TO the boat got ready lest the crew
should loiter and compel us TO stay at GreytOwn
longer than we thought il advisable At last the boat
was declared to be ready. In the after part some
wooden hoops had been covered with old oil cloth, in
the shape OF small cabin with a flooring OF rough
planks placed on transversa sticks to keep from
the raih-water which would be constantly filling the
bottom of the boat.
Early on the following day we embarked our lug
gage, and spreading blankets and cloaks for bed
the floor of the "chopa," Cabin with our carpet
bags for pillows hung up firearms to the hoops
of our improvised cabin; and, standing up in the
midst of dense shower, to wave a farewell to our
GTeytown friends we showed of into the stream.
Our crew was composed of patron, master,
tall well shaped negro and OF four Indians from Mica
rsgua. Among them l recognized one | had met on
the lake the year before-a sury, logged villain,
whose presence did not much like. ! resolved to
to keep my eye upon him. The patrons place was
at the rudder, behind our chOpa the crew being in
front of at their oars seated on our trunks instead
Of the usual benches, which we had suppressed. The
whole thing was most prmitive-the boat OF hollow
tree; the poles, long and heavy, with fiat
piece Of board nailed along the extre nifty to serve asa
paddle with piece of rope reaching from this board
or paddle TO the side of the boat where it is tied to
huge nail to aid the bOamen 10 retain their hold OF
the oar, which is thick that their hands cannot
grasp it,
We reached the entrance proper of the San
Juan and ranged along the bank. Here the crew
stripped completely, not even retaining that mockery
of dress which decency demands. We now started
in earnest The river is large rapid in many places,
deep in others but frequently shallow that it is ne
cessary for the bOaman TO leap into the water to push
the canoe through the sand The scenery Is beau
tiful. The luxuriant vegetation of these tropical
regions Oyerhangs the margin OF the river along the
whole of it's course, and rising above the water, on
either side in an mpervOus wall of foliage, which as
sumes the most tancifu forms here bower adorned
with festoOns of parastca plants with their gorgeous
flowers, gracefully beautiful that you cannot cease
to admire; there sJme lofty castle with towers ana
battlements looming in the distance over the silent
stream, while, further on, you Will come upon some
hidden cove shaded by the wide spreading bsughs OF
some mammoth tree which invites you to rest within
its cool recess. shall not easily forget the hrst
evening we passed on the river We had let our an
Choir drop thirty yards from the northern Dahk'
We were seated in front of our chopa, on one OF tne
trunks The night though mOonless, was not DARK,
and the stars shone brilliant in tbs heavens. Inc
river had the appearance of lake. The forest ON the
banks drew its sharp outline on the deep blue SKY
above and projected its dark shadow on the water
around u.s. In the forepar of our boat the men, lay
ing on their oars as bed with upturned faces ana
bodies half projecting the sides, seemed, as the
light of the lantern placed ON the heap OF trunks III
the center of the boat streamed upon their mooness
FORMS as SO many cOIpses awaiting the shroud. The
stiffness was replete with strange and ndlstnct nOse
and interrupted at long intervals only by breath OF
wind stealing over the trees in the distance or by the
splashes of pungpg alligator; while the water, as
it rippled along the bows, appeared endowed with
clearer voice. The whole scene was SO Impressive IN
its wild solitude and magnificent grandeur, that
notwithstanding several efforts to raise our voices and
speak naturally we relapsed constantly into whls
DER. lending an attentive ear to we knew not what
We were thus enjoying the scene when suddenly a
great noise in the distance caught our attention
Anxiously we leant forward to hear more distinctly
At first we were unable 10 make out what it could be-
but il carried terror in the sOund aud now 1t was
like a powerful steamer dashing furIousy through
the water and nearer and nearer II came every
second Was il a steamer I'VE knew that steamers
piled the river. Would they see us Would they not
run us under Such were our thoughts. - Patron
Patron :" cried we, do you hear the steamer!
:. the steamer :" The patron for an instant raised
slightly his head and uttered shr cry of q III aqua!
"Sercr. ell aqua" The rain, sir, the rain } Inc
agony there was in the words / held the lantern,
which had seized in the first moment OF alarm high
above our heads and true enough, there was the RAIN
rushing msdy toward us, causing long line OF foam