The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1854-08-24

Our MaxytAn0 COrroop0n0e00es
CUMBERLAND, Nd, August, 1854.
Taking the Cars-7Aoughtful Provision Of
the Railroad Company-Hayper's Ferry
The Scenery Winchester Valiey-Rsn'i-
niseence-Payingfor Refinement Scenery
on the Potion ae-Contvast ruth the Hud-
son Sentimental Reflections Stop at
Cum5erland-Hs Sifuat'on-The Coal
Basin and Railroads. Hotels--Beautifui
Episcopal Church Other Churches-Rs-
demptorisf Content.
Quitting the Mddletown Valley on fervent
August moroiDg, we descended rapidly through
a country parched with heat and drought TILL
at turn of the road, the cool breadth Of the
Potomac came in view, winding among hills.
On its hither side rau the railroad. We bade
adieu to our friends with wishes that the white
cumuli hanging in the blae above might pre-
sently darken and dissolve in rain. The cx-
press train came rushing along, just hating to
take us and our luggage, and in thrice we
were whirling and shrieking away towards
Harper's Ferry. The same plain but exceed
ingly comfortable cars as the week before; and
now, as then, we were much pleased with the
arrangement by which, every quarter of an
hour or so, a man passes through the cars with
o can of ice water and staud of tumblers,
from which every one may freely drink.
At first we thought there was something
to pay, but soon learned that the luxury
was provided by the company, who are
surely humane and thoughtful men, or
endued with q sharp eye to their own
interest, at the very least. This attention On
the part of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad
Company was the more grateful to vs. as the
water along the line is often strongly impreg
mated with lime, an indication, l am told, of
strong soil, favorable to culture, but by n
means agreeable to an unaccustomed palate.
The water thus served was soft and clear, icy
cold, and sparkling; it was pleasure, too,
apart, to observe the skill Of the water carrier
in filing the glasses without spilling o drop
from his long nosed can; and remembering the
dirty, offensive stream which have too often
found to flow from the water vessel kept in the
cars at the North, internally resolved to
write strong recommendation Of the Southern
practice. The only objection to it is your be-
ing obliged to drink after other people, without
the glass being washed between, except by
slight riDsing; but when people are travelling
they must not be too nice, aud, in fine, If you
are so squeamish that you can't bear it, why
drinking is not compulsory.
! believe it is the drought which makes me
linger so long on this theme. Let me turn from
it to the magnifcence of Harper's Ferry. A
noble covered bridge, supported on lofty
stone piers, carries the railroad across tue
Potomac, which passes over broad lodges
between mountains boldly escarped. In
the distance, as you look mp the river,
the mountains gradually blend their woody
tops; as you glance outward, the coun-
try spreads in soft, rich, cultivated landscape
the view 30 praised by Jefferson. saw il
and was disappointed; but to-day it answered
oil my expectations In scenery there must
always be proportion kept between the ele-
M nts Of which il is composed, in order to pro-
duce the effect. The rolling mass of turbid
waters that rushed like sea through this sub
lime gap when saw it before, destroyei the
effect Of the mountain barrier which they
passed; but with the river reduced to its ma
,nral dimensions and power, the rocks that
wall II in appeared once more stupendous, as
they are described by Jefferson. The solid and
massive character of the work by which the
road is carried through the gap, at a consider.
able elevation above the bed Of the broad river
flowing by, adds very much TO the impression.
1t is here that the Winchester railro I'd con-
meets with the Baltimore and Ohio, and opens
to the latter the commerce of tn great Kltt.-
ting or Winchester valley Of Virginia This
must every year become more and more valua-
b]e, for the valley abouuds in every kind of
wealth that can attract or reward hum IN labor,
and it is thither that the Northern emigration
to Virginia chiefly tends.
We, however, are bent upon reaching higher
elevations 1t is too hot to think of remaining
in the valleys. Wait till the frost has clothed
the woods with bright. colors, such as
we looked down upon in 1913 from the
SUBMITS OF the Blue Ridge and tue ALE hany
"a vast sea of crimson foliage stretching as
far as the eye could reach, and at that height
scarcely seeming to DO broken BY patches Of
culture. II is in such scenes that one compre-
hends the splendor OF our nationa! inheritance
After leaving Hsrper's Ferry the railroad
soon leaves, also, the Potomac, and plungcs in
to Virginia. We pass through a fine asricul-
tnral district; we stop to dine at Martinsburg,
where we have specimen of Virginia plenty,
good cookery. and want Of ceremony at table
Tire last is what railroad travellers have always
to expect; but those who have never before
travelled South and West will b. taken, guess,
by surprise. But if you are hungry, as we
were, and have not the fear Of the cholera be-
fore your eyes Gas indeed here there il none of
il YETI, the abundance and excellent quality of
the substsntials will more than atone for every
other deficiency. Sweeter bread, more tender
or more juicy mutton, nicer currant jelly up
on 1t, ! never tasted; and by the same token,
my. next neighbor, in reaching across the
table for something, knocked over the
glass vessel containing the said jel-
~, which, being rendered partly fluid
10y the heat, flowed abandantly over the table
cloth. A plump negress, oily and shining, who
looked like the Goddess Of Plenty cut in eboay,
forthwith brought another. For this meal we
paid but fifty cents apiece. and was after
wards told that we might have been qaite as
well fed at less ambitious table, where the
manners, G. g., are not 70 refined, for hall the
money.
Asyou see by the map, the road soon returns
10 the Potomac-l think in au hour from Mar
tinsbnrg II must do so in order to turn the
middle Allegheny, or Appalachian, series of