The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1854-03-19
too much hurried; then they cast saliva at the In

too much hurried; then they cast saliva at the In
dams, or at each other. This is their only Of
renee II Is thought to be poisonous. They require
yeIyl title food, which they pick up on the noun
tain, and are much more temperate than their
drivers requiring very little water. Their loads are
taken oia midday that they may feed, being natu-
rally opposed to eating late suppers. am told that
even when the driver neglects to give them time
during the day, they will not take food at night.
They seek the cold regions of the Andes; nature
has provided warm fleece of wool, and they need
no shelter. Though they are feeble animals, their
usual daily travel is about fifteen miles; but after
three or four days journey they must have rest or
they perish on the road. The motion Of their heads
and necks as they cross the mountain crags may be
kened to that Of the swan as iAfloats over smooth
water. The wool makes good coarse cloth Of various
colors, seldom of one color.
Huanacos are known by being rather larger than
the lama They are said to be difficult to train,
even if taken young. They never gives up their
ideas OF liberty, and will regain their companions
whenever an opportunity admits.
The alpaca is the smallest, with the finest long
wool. Its body resembles the sheep, with the head
and neck of the lama. Like the others, the meat is
not very palatable. Alpaca wool is known in the
markets. In South Peru and Bolivia, great num-
bers OF these New World camels are raised.
After long and tiresOme descent, we halted in
the main plaza of the town Of Huancavelca, in
front Of small shop on the corner, the cathe
dral. Drawing out letter of introduction to the
owner Of the house, given to me by my Copenhagen
"cOuntryman, handed it to o very pretty young
woman seated in the doorway, sewing. She invited
me in, and followed to the bedroom Of her hus-
band, who was mapping. There were so many
female dresses hanging around | was obliged to be
seated on the bed The husband shook hands,
rubbed his eyes, gaped and then laughed; said he
was very glad to see me; that everything in his
house was mine.
While was resting, an officer, with gold laced
cap, gray trousers, and half buttoned military
jacket came in and inquired from whence | came;
and as he lieutenant Of police he would thank
me to show him my passport. In return, he was
asked whether in his opinion the world was not suf
cienty civilized to permit the people to pass with
out such documents? 1t is very certain the Lieu
tenant never had such question put to him before
told him to call when my baggage was unpacked;
but never saw him again; though heard that Don
- had told him that North Americans required
different treatment from those of some other parts
of the world-they did not know what passports
meant, Notwithstanding they were very intelligent
people.
about 5000 and is situated in deep ravine amidst
a cluster of lofty peaks. It is the capital of the
department, and was named by the Incas.
The town is divided into two parishes counts six
churches, hospital, and college for young men, in
which physics, chemistry, and mineralogy, are
taught The plaza is adorned with fountain Of
stone; cathedral stands by the side of mountain
of cnnabar, which contains the celebrated quick
silver mine of Santa Barbara. Climbing up this
mountain we came to doorway, fifteen feet high
and twelve wide, carved in the sandstone. The
entrance on the southeast side Of the peak was
like railroad tunnel. The eternal glaciers are at
this doorway; cicles hung overhead, and sheets OF
ice spread under our feet.
Sootyfaced, rough-looking Indians trundled
wheelbarrows loaded with quicksilver ore. When
the administrator, tall, smallpoxmarked mestizo,
said to me- "We are ready sir TO escort you through
the mines of Huancavelica," must have felt like
man sentenced to be buried alive. We entered this
dark hole about six hundred feet below the top of
the mountain. As we left daylight thought of
home; then we heard dreadful crash, which the
mestzo informed me was the upper part OF the mine
falling in. A hollow sound was followed by splash
in the deep waters somewhere below; then came
suddenly strong smell of sulphuret of arsenic. A
little further on | saw pair Of eyes through thu
darkness l called to Richards to hold his torch
light; we were travelling east-northeast by my COM
pass. The eyes belonged to little Indian boy
standing on the side OF the mine, with load OF ore
on his back, while we passed. He had come through
narrow passage, called Take off Your Horns" on
his hands and knees, and had raised choking dust
After refreshing ourselves at spring OF water OF
the market women sell to these men, who seldom
leave the mines. On one side of the plaza, by hold
ing the torches over our heads, we see beautiful
bridge, and beyond it stairway leading into utter
darkness; on the other side lake, the opposite
shore not in sight, though the sound of q hammer
floats over its smooth waters. As we move along
among red brick-colored columns, which support the
immense weight over our heads, we see dim torch
by the side OF the workman, seated with his hammer
and chisel cutting away and honey-combing the
Andes. The administrator tells me we are halfway
through; if / wish to climb up stairs we can get
near the top Of the peak; turn which way we wiz
keep as near on level as possible. After humping
our heads and walking doubled up in most tire
position with great want of fresh air, we final
ly stood up in the San Rosario Church, which is
to the ceiling. Over the altar was carved, in solid
cinnabar, the Virgin Mary, with the infant in her
arms. As the Indians pass, with hat in hand, they
turn, and kneeling under their heavy loads Of ore,
say short prayer, cross themselves, and pass on by
the light always burning at the altar. The aboring
Indian, who seldom leaves these dark regions, at
tends when the church bells call, and offers up
prayer for protection from the dangers OF the mine-
On Sunday evening, in this rotunda he meets his
countrymen who work on the opposite side of the
lake; they tell Of seeing daylight at the point OF the
chisel far overhead instead Of driving it further to-
wards the bowels of the earth.
The cinnabar is 80 narrowly separated by layers OF
sandstone that the peak may almost be called
solid mass Of quicksilver ore. At present there are
one hundred and twenty Indian men, women, and
boys employed in extracting the metal. The work
of those who cut out the is not without its dam
gers. AS the compass is never used, the ignorant
Indian often chses away the proper support, when
great, heavy masses cave in.
After walk of two hours, we came into fresh air
on the north side Of the mountain. The ore is car
ried out on both sides of the peak in bags of raw
hide, sung the backs OF boys, and then wheeled
to the furnace near by, where men break " up INTO
bits while women make small cakes OF the dust.
These are laid in the bottom Of large iron crate,
sufficiently open to allow heat to pass, and over them
the ore is filled in to the depth of three feet fire
is made underneath of coarse mountain grass, a
strong draught carries the vapor from the cnnabar
through retort Of earthen pipes slipped one into
the other to the distance Of five or six feet where it
condenses and the quicksilver lodges on the ho0r.
After the ore becomes well heated, which generally
takes eight or ten hours, the doors Of the furnace
closed and for three or four hours the dstllla
ton continues. After this, the quicksilver is swept
into pots, washed in water and dried, when It Is
ready for the market and is sold here at one dollar
per pound. 1t is sent off in all directions to the sill
yer mines Of Peru.
BY this rude method Of mining and smelling the
loss of mercury is great. The joints of the earthen
PIPES are uted with clay, through which the vapor
estarts before it has time to condense. 1t J. dill
cult to regulate the heat by the dry mountain grass
wi ich blszes up and passes away in moment, 80
that the doors must be kept open, man constantly
feeding the fire.
Tie nine is owned by the government, and leased
10 company, who keep secret its annual yield The