Weekly national intelligencer., 1854-11-11
THE SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE ST. LAWRENCE

!, THE SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE ST. LAWRENCE
The following is chapter from Forthcoming
book by our young friend, CHARLES LANMAN, tc
be entitled Recolections of american Scenery ana
Adventure" Those of our readers who may re-
member his account Of the Saguenay river, which
appeared in our columns some eight years ago, will
undoubtedly be pleased to learn something about
the southern shore of the St. Lawrence especially
thither by the Reciprocity Treaty.
QUEBEC, july, 1858.
The distance from Metis to this city is two hundred
miles, and the country intervening is the home more
completely than any other section Of Canada of its
French population On several occasions have had
passing view of this southern shore of the St. Lawrence
while sailing up and down the river but never until the
past week. have travelled directly through the country
and made myself personally acquainted with its physical
aspect and the character of its inhabitants took six
days to accomplish what need not have required
than three, my two companions and myself occupying
the everlasting caleche Of the country while luggage
conveyed in cart, each vehicle drawn by tough
pony and the driver Of the cart officiating pilot But
the result Of my observations will record in sys-
temac manner than consecutive account Of our ad-
ventures will allow.
To speak In general terms the entire southern shore
of the St Lawrence, between Metis and Quebec is
versed by no less than three excellent roads,
ming parallel with the river crossed at right angles by
other roads from two to four miles apart the squares
thus formed being up into very regular and
slips Of land upon which located the comfortable
dwellings and accompanying ouhouses Of farming
munity This peculiar division Of property had its or
gin in the naturally social disposition of the Canadian
French and the result has been that the entire section Of
country in question presents the appearance of
tinuous village. And yet in spite of this circumstance
remark made by Mr. John McGregor is quite true that
the counties Of Gaspe, Rimousk and Kamorouski are
less known in the mother country than Kamschatka All
the roads good but that running Immediately
along the shore is the best the agreeably diversified
and thicky settled; and it is with this that the others
converge whenever considerable stream is be crossed
whereby bridge for the three On the river
road also located a the parish churches whose gilt
ering twin spires loom into the sky in sight Of each other
throughout the entire distance and many of which are
quite beautiful outwardly and filed with pictures but
generally Of questionable merit and they are always ad
nrably situated. The farms in question are all in a
nigh state OF cultivation, and the pastures covered
with wefed ocks although the gardens attached to the
houses seem toSbe the main dependencies Of the pro-
pnetor for they quite extensive and next to the
rye or barley fields yield the two principal articles Of
consumption, potatoes and peas The habiations are
almost exclusively built Of wood and though generally
alike did not see any two that precisely resembed each
other. They seem to have been built by men who had
decided taste for the picturesque in FORM not superior
ideas In regard to comfort and utility.
They are usually story high, with steep, cury-
ed, and overhanging roofs dormer windows in abun-
dance porches and piazzas of manifold varieties and
are painted after every imaginable fashion large iron
ofpr nnpnn -.
ing placed in the partition of the two rooms into which
the houses are generally divided and in this is all the
winter cooking DONE In the summer it is done outside in
the open air. whilst the bread is invariably baked in
clay oyen and occasionally kneaded by the road side on
the ground at the foot of the oven into which is sub
sequenty placed The barns belonging to them and to
which is always attached wind-machine for grinding
grain are large, similar in style to and oftentimes more
beautiful and comfortable than the dwellings themselves;
and were it not for the almost total absence of domestic
trees the rural beauty of these settlements could hardly
be surpassed few fruit do occasionally orna-
nent garden spot but we see nothing in the way Of
cheerful shade and if you wish enjoy forest
walk you must retire to the highlands which are from
one to two miles in the interior At the mouths OF the
principal rivers are located extensive saw mills chiefly
owned by William Price, Esq., of Quebec whose asto-
nshng enterprise has done so much to deveope the
sources Of the Lower St. Lawrence and the famous Sa
guenny river and in their vicinity is generally found
shpyard with two or three vessels the stocks intend
ed for the Quebec and European trade In truth the
gon in question cannot be visited without aording the
traveller much pleasure for every where be
the abodes OF simplicity, virtue, and happiness.
The scenery that you witness in travelling up the
southern shore of the St. Lawrence every where spread
out on grand scale, and quite beautiful as it is i'm
posing for the great Alpine region Of the northern shore
is never out sight, and you continually have the watery
plain at your feet dotted here and there with the most
luxurant islands, occasionally surmounted with light
house, and like butterflies upon mirror huge ships
without number sailing in safety and peace Sach is the
general aspect Of the country at but the
approach of winter immense change takes place the
scenery becomes wild and desolae the terrific
the dangers of navigation ormidabe the river and gulf
choked up with broken fields Of ice and the entire
country is covered with to the depth Of many feet
The people nhabitng this romantic region almost
exclusively descendants Of the French who have de
rent times emigrated to Canada. Indeed do not re-
member to have the entire road between Metis
and Quebec except at two of the watering places
single individual who was not of French extraction
The provincial word haitian is said be strictly ap
pcabe to the inhabitants of this section of country than
any other in Canada, from which circumstance am
led to believe that its proper Interpretation is the people
oho cultivate small farms the peasantry Of the country
although its original meaning, understood by the old
French voyagers who first used it, the legitimate
when compared with the interesting character Of the peo
ple The great majority Of them tllers Of the SOIL
and quite content, and happy If they but
have abundance of the simple food which their lands
yield, albeit few Of the ambitious and enerpris
ing do considerable business in the way of fishing.
They are, however, quite iterate if in state Of
barbarsm. Schoohouses may indeed be known among
them but they few and far between They pay but
little attention to the raising of domestic animals and
yet their little cows are said to be good mixers From
their sheep is obtained the material out Of which, in do
mesc LOOMS they manufacture their clothing and with
the assistance of their geese and the useful fax their
bedding But their favorite and most indispensable ami
NAL is the horse the smallest homeles smartest and