The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1854-05-21


London basonet by one Of our modern play
wrights. There is great deal Of sound philo-
sophy in them, because great many men and
women are so constituted, mentally, that the
adornment.of their persons is the only subject
which claims their attention. The invention of
new modeskeeps them busy, and they thereby
escape the Vaccinations of the devil, who, if we
believe the old writer's, is ever at the elbow Of
the idler.
The women are the never-failing targets at
which slovens discharge their arrows, when in
Weighing upon extravaganza in dress. Yet we
doubt not that these same writers do enjoy a
promenade in Broadway--that they believe,
with Shelley, that "a thing of beauty is joy
forever" and that they wonld be very much
disgusted with women-kind if the fair prone
naders upon our great avenue were dressed with
Quaker simplicity, or attired in the robes of
neutral colors which the sumptuary law of the
liberal minded gentlemen who settled the Ply
mouth colony obliged the Puritan women to
wear
That extravaganza in dress is carried to an
excess which sometimes becomes criminal, is a
truism, and nobody will attempt to disguise
the fact. Men as well as women are guilty in
this matter. The descendant Of q man remark
able for his simplicity in attire, writes from
Paris that his gloves cost him five hundred dol
lars per annum. Boots d la mode are fitted to
aristocratic feet for ten dollars. One style of
twelve to eighteen dollars; and there is one
extraordinary pair Of trousers in Broadway,
the pattern of which is SO striking that it cost
eighteen dollars to buy them The last
style Of dress coat, the skirts approximating the
heels, and the hip buttons placed between the
shoulder blades, is made by fashionable tailor
for forty dollars, from his Paris pattern, i'm
ported expressly for this house." Add to
these, jewelled shirt buttons, diamond vest
buttons, and other fashionable 6jouterie, and
it will be seen that a distinguf male outfit for
a concert or ball often requires draft of not
less than thousand upon the governor"
whose mind is relieved by the axiom laid down
at the outset of this article, and who thinks
that his hopeful son may, by his intense ad-
miration of the brilliant style in which he has
been gotten up, be SO enwrapped in egotism
that he will forget every thing else but his dear
self, and thereby be kept out of mischief.
The woman of fashion is governed by the
same law. Her life has three epochs: her hus-
band, her children, and the opening of the
fashions for the seasons. Generally, the last
has the firmest hold upon her mind. The mil
liners the mantua-makers, and the journalists,
are her aiders and abettors. How many bright
eyes will sparkle at the following description
of a love of a Dress" the last emanation from
the Quarter Saint Honore =
Dresses of silk with three ounces Of dienent colors
gre novelties and will enjoy great favor during the
ing season There are many in preparation, having
description has three skirts one over the other with an
interval of six eight inches The lowest is emerald
green the middle one Of paler green, and the third
elt gray color The body of the felt gray color high
and plain and has frill down the breast Of Aencon's
lace the centre of which placed three brooches
emerads surrounded with pearls. The sleeves dou-
BE pagoda, the under light green the upper felt
gray, and only reaching TO the elbow This sleeve Is
st up behind ana trimmed with lace and Is fastened
by three emerald buttons, surrounded by pearls.
Embroidery, lace, pearls, emeralds, three CO.
lors Of silk-very fine and inexpensive, no
doubt, until the bills come in. The sacred
ground where bonnets or hats are invented
should not be approached by impious feet.
" What charms, what COMPUTATIONS, and what
mighty magic" it must require to get up such
an extraordinary affair as that which now rests
between the occiput and the spinal column of
Broadway belle! five may believe some inn
pertinent writer's, the mania for extravaganza
is carried to the furthest recesses of the toilet
and from some interesting petticoat statistics it
appears that several hundred poor heathens
might be furnished with Bibles, moral pocket
handlSerchiefs and flannel shirts, with the money
that one fashionable lady cxpends upon those
portions Of her attire which are never seen by
vulgar eyes, except upon rainy days.
The great cause Of oil this extravaganza is to
be found in the great wealth and unbounded
of the country. First, we were poor,
industrious, never-tiring. The men were unre-
fined, but vigorous; the women shouldered the
musket, swung the axe, and brought up their
children in the way they should go; and they
did not walk therein. The Puritan mothers
were moulded by the iron will of the Puritan
fathers; they were as stern, as bigoted, as cor:
scientious, as firm, and as strict, as their hus-
bands They insisted upon being martyrs; to
lined with roses--the crown of thorns was q
wreath of laurel. Their descendants have rush.
ed to the opposite extreme, and they have yet
to learn that the excess of luxury is not the
excess CT refinement. Many great nations have
fallen beneath the enervating influence of lux
ury degraded to debauchery; but we do n, !
think this republic is in danger of being made
similar example at present.
In discussing this subject, it would be wrong
to overlook the fact that refinement in dress
makes work, and work which is well paid, for
thousands Of worthy and industrious men and
women, and that the importation of articles of
luxury forms one of the most important items
in our city's prosperity.
We must also remember the ugly fact, that
man and woman are initiative beings. Every
1iftlo oircln hos ito haau and tic hello ond Mr.