The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1854-07-14

[From LIE Follet.l
The uncOngenial weather which has 30 long pre-
judge Of fashion, by diminishing the opportunities
for the display OF those prodiges of taste and in
genuity which our leading houses 30 well know
how 70 arrange, and which our bellies danes are
equally Gu fat in exhibiting.
Philosophy Is virtue, the practice Of which is
fortunately, within the reach Of all who seek its
soothing inf for their several necessities; so
we will cen accept the various novelties submitted
for public favor as specimen Of what the several
celebrated couturieres and modistes would have
given US had the fates been more propitious.
One Of the most elegant novelties Of the season is
most assuredly, the robe, trimmed with straw in
fanciiul designs. The effect is 80 charming that we
are at loss to account for the idea not having been
carried out for robes de vile at an earlier period
especially as this delicate trimming has for some
time been so successfully employed for ball dresses
Robes with shaded founces are much patronized
this season. they are calculated by their novelty to
have universal success.
We must not omit In our list of fashionable mate.
rails, the tafetas with graduated plaid founces.
robe in this article, Of fawn color, with three deep
hounces; on them are worked checks Of dark blue,
pale blue, and black, with an edging Of fine white
lines forming q check Of rather large dimensions
below, and gradually decreasing upwards. The
basques ct the bottom Of the sleeves are trimmed in
checks or plaids on the LOUNGES are composed Of
cerise, black and gray.
A robe In Pekin Of . steel gray, trimmed with
eUcCGlyo 0r000,
Three white bands, alternate with three Of steel
gray, produce the effect Of 30 many ribbons. On
the white Is worked garland Of roses interspersed
with blus clemats; and on the edge Of each founce
With basques; each Of which Is trimmed round With
narrow white border, embroidered similar to that
on the hounces.
What can be prettier or more becoming for tot
lette de viste than charming robe Of violet gros
de Naples with alternate black and violet iouuces,
garland OF dark pinks embroidered in twisted silk
on the violet founces, and one in violet silk upon
the blackf A corsage en- ccBur, with small revers
embroidered also with dark pinks In the form Of q
garland. Demipagodes sleeves, formed by Eve frills,
one over the other black and violet IS on the SKIRT
The undersleeves bouiLlonnees, and the chemisette
and mousquetaire collar Of fine oYgandi embroider-
ed n plu%etis: . Az covering for the shoulders
with nches Of violet ribbon, which went round
the mantine. and in double row on the edge
Of the deep guipure which these trimmings form
Cd 4 ASS e s shss t saapesS in pse ds
nnud Of punches Of dark grapes with tho
foliage crepe, and the inside Of the front the
same description of leaves, with small wild flowers.
On the edge Of the bonnet small fall in white tulle,
embroidered with straw coored silk and the corners
gracefully rounded OF 30 as to harmonic with the
curtain. This Is an elegant manner Of wearing falls
and exceedingly becoming to the face, and, with the
previous description, viii fully support idea Of
Embroidered musins are much in vogue at the
present time; and certainly from the exquisite cha
racter Of the various designs chosen for this pur-
pose, and the aerial appearance Of the dress when
made up. with its several Accomplishments, we
can readily appreciate the correctness Of this taste.
Among the patterns selected we may notice the
everlasting pea, the ear Of barley, wheat and many
Others, which must remind the mamas Of the d ~
Of their former conquests, and which now serve to
adorn the figures Of the rising generation.
These dresses, when placed In the troussea Of q
bride, are termed deshabiles; there are, however,
others to which the term might perhaps be more
correctly applied, as being well adapted for the
country seat and the seaside. They are made Of
fine cambria muslin with white ground, or of muslin
figured with delicate pattern in pink, blue or lilac
or small bouquets of flowers in various colors They
have one deep hounce, which is trimmed with three
small ruches echelonnees, and festooned by the
predominating color Of the pattern. At the head Ia
a ruche much larger in size, and others more deli
cate in their proportions round the basques, the
revers Of the body, and the bottom Of the sleeves
Underneath the corsage, chemisettes and sleeves o
batiste gr0s bouillonnees, plated or elegantly
ornamented with embroidery, composed of open.
work, satin stitch, and points de guipure, as al
most TO hide the batise. These deshabes are most
elegant when made of muslin. We were particularly
pleased with one Of these dresses in fine muslin
with broad pink and white stripes. The flounces
and III the trimmings were ornamented with ruches
Of pink taffeta ribbon, three pink ribbon bows In
the centre Of the corsage, and similar bows to ooE
up the sleeves to the height Of the bend Of ths
arm.
Among the mos. distinguss little manteaux fol
the seaside, those In the Talma form, but verJ
short, appear TO be the favorite. They are made
Of plain or mixture ladies' cloths, lined with tat
fetas, and trimmed with stripes Of shaded plush
placed around the cloak, the neck, and the open
iDgs for the arms.
For very warm weather, and to be worn in Oh,
country, light texture shawis In grenadine, will
figured border or bayade stripes, are very pretty.
There sometimes pecui ,rities in fashion which
succeed fail in being established according to the
manner in which they are introduced In this cate
CORY we may place two styles Of bonnet, which owe
their position much TO the prestige Of the few ladies
who have displayed them to the well known tast<
Of the house from which they emanated. One Of paile
dItalie Of the most perfect fneness, the crown Of
rather larger Dimensions than usual, had somewhat
the appearance Of the Maria Stuart style; 1t wa
very much off the cheeks, slightly inclined on tho
forehead, and trimmed each side Of the front with
| bow Of orange ribbon, fringed with black, which
| although three quarters of an inch deep on each
side Of the ribbon four inches deep at the ends
Il was composed Of an exquisitely delicate and Light
plume, which waved like number Of small feathers
suspended at the extremity of these ribbons.
Fancy or woven straw Is just now one OF the most
favorite materials for summer bonnets.
A charming straw bonnet, with velvet violet scat
tered all over it, produced pleasing effect. Thu
trimming composed Of q mass Of violets strewed OF
the top OF the crown, was as simple as disfingut
and wreath Of violets hanging down on each side
and held up by very small bows Of black lace, com
pleted this pretty style.