The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1854-02-20

| sAAo PAcDo"S oohtHy dpprUAinaCn8 tne COSTUME Y
Franklin, Mr. Belmont next made personal det, w
among the jewish clothing stores of the Hans
Towns, extending bis researches some distance up
the Rhine. Thence he dverged 10 Frankfort onthe-
Main, and penetrated into the arcana Of the Jews
quarter Of that city soournng for week at the
in which the mother Of the Rothschids Gin narrow
street. fanked on all sides by old clo establishments
was born, and lived and died.
Finally, ne returned to the Hague, and, adopting
the costume Of Mr. Souls, with certain Dutch modi.
fcasions, he made his appearance at Court. The
Dutch rose In rebellion at this innovation upon the
etiquette Of the place. Much chaffering and con-
siderable correspondence eMued in low Dutch and
broken English; but at length compromise was
effected. Mr.. Belmont agreed to admit small mar.
gin Of gold lace upon his garments samples of which
have been received at this department. and are open
to the inspection of the Senate. He has been au-
thorzed TO wear the lace agreed upon as the differ
ence In quality between 1t and the gorgeous trap
paogs OF royal courtiers is sufficiently great to mark
the distinction between our representative and the
sotrkrout Dutch footmen Of the Hague.
Iwould here suggest, as q satisfactory compromise
VITA all the courts Of Europe, that we agree to con-
form to their acquisitions upon dress with the single
exception of square patch upon the breeches.
marked in silver thread "F,FTY CrNrs!n as the dis
trguishing symbol of the simplicity and economy of
our democratic institutio g.
Mr. Vroom, In his obedience to my instructions
upon costumes, has experienced much ANNOYANCE at
the court Of Berlin. The high Dutch regime of that
royal establishment is ludcrously punctilious upon
Dress The tailor makes the man for the Prussiau
court This was weakness OF Frederick the Great,
who, upon matters Of court dress and etiquette was
disgustingly small. 1t was o weakness, also, Of
Frederick the Little, and is amusingly men,
toned as such among the memoirs of Napo-
Leon. Among. such people, with such repul.
sive traditions and instincts, Mr.. vroom was
positively refused admittance to court in the
neat and becoming garments in which a United
States Senator attends our Presidents levees He
pleaded his instructions-he quoted my circulars
he adverted to the example Of DR.. Franklin himself
and lastly, when requested to consult tailor he re-
ferred to our own distinguished General Taylor, late
President, as good enough tailor for him.
As q last resort, he was advised to arbitrate the
difficulty with the Ambassador from Russia. This
he declined to do until he had consulted his govern
ment In repy, therefore, to his app lcaten he has
been instructed to propose the Ambassador of Turkey
as arbitrator, the PoPes Nuncio If convenient OF
access; but in no case to consent to margin OF gold
lace greater than three inches in width. Even this
would not be conceded were it not important to
watch the movements Of Prussia and every symptom
OF her policy upon the Eastern question. TO do this
Mr.. Dudley Mann informs me, it is absolutely indis
pensable to gin admission to Court and its fashion
able reunions, where the real business Of diplomacy
and the State secrets and intrigues of the different
monarchies are most readily obtained in agreeable
conversations and gallantries with the wives and
daughters OF kings, princes prime ministers and am.
bassadors. This can readily believe for the most
APorfant State secrets Of our government have
lot unfrequent!y leaked out through similar channels
Hence my policy, as Secretary Of State, has been ID
live in boarding house, thus avoiding both the ex
pense and the dangers Of those official parties which
involve the presence Of inquistive ladies' who fish
out everything from plant gallantry, and tell all
they know, as great secret to the first designing
knave with moustache, or whisker, or imperial,
they fall in with their champagne, be he Rus.
sian spy or newspaper correspondent.
Hon. John Y. Mason has experienced much diff
Guilty upon the question OF costume Ut Paris In the first
place, he was announced in the Monlteur as the new
Minister from the United States, " Johnny" Mason,
by ludcrous mistake Of the printer. Next, he had
disagreement with the late acting Charge, Mr..
Sanford, who, much to the disgust Of the Empress
had presised in appearing at the Tuileres in plain
black coat and pantaloons, and white waistcoat and
cravat Ridiculed by the ladies, and sneered at by
the snobs Of royalty the courage of Mr.. sandord in
adhering to the simplest construction Of my circu-
lars is much to be commended. Upon the arrival Of
Mr. Mason, the French Minister of Foreign Affairs,
M. Drouyn De 'Huys, waited upon him, and earn
esty represented to him the necessity Of conforming
xcx xIa ~ til
tune, Notwithstanding the circulars from this de.
partment of June last. Mr.. Mason remained un-
moved until, on the following evening" he was in
vited to whist party In the salons Of the Empress
at the Elysee. Here, in the rough but expressive
language Of Col Benton, with his belly full Of
oysters and his hands full of cards." he capitulated
at discretion to the demands Of the Empress. His
next step was to bring over Mr.. Sanford to
the policy agreed upon; but that gentleman
was infexible, and rather than resign his
black coat or white wahtcoat he resigned
his commission. The delicate responsibility,
therefore, devolves upon this department
determining between the conduct Of Mr.. Mason and
of Mr. Sanford. In my opinion the latter has vim
dicated democrati, principles and usages in the
most satisfactory manner while the former has
shown q spirit Of funkeyism incompatible with the
true dignity and independence Of the American
character.
Should the Senate committee, therefore, agree
with me In recommending Mr.. Mason's recall, there
will be no difficulty in getting a successor. Ny
friend Gen. Dix, who submitted to be overslaughed
without grumbliDg after waiting through al the last
hot summer, cooped up in the Sub Treasury in Wall
street. in expectation Of the French mission is still
willing TO accept IL. Mr.. Cobb Of Georgia, cheated
ut Of the Senate, and C,l Clemens of AIabaml, and
Gen. Foote Of Mississippi, served in the way,
would either OF them be reconcilsd by the French
mission. The late noble letter of Col. Clemens to
confidential friend, John Van Buren,, on the Ne
braska question, should not be overlooked. Mr.. John
Van Buren himself has also claims Of very delicate
and peculiar kind to this mission upon the first
vacancy.
But Of all the candidates for this important