New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1853-11-23


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1he buildings ~ ihe hole,y em1ist ~ msin eli
nrn iout stories IN Lehf and about 100 feet hong w
10 feet eide substantially built IN brick With several
tall,f rerilous devoted ~ The different operations
ol bleaching and dyoug The 6rst s,ory has an eeya-
lion ~ about ~ ro Tho jacquard apparaius requiring
fully llis hight aud hero ile process Of weaving is
carried on Tho second aud third stories are appro.
prhtsd Ia Tho winding 81 The silk The punching Ut tho
pattern cnrds, The preparation Of tho warp. and the
dressing Of the goods. Tho building IL heated by
rtcem pipes, fires being allowed on this part OF the
prcmrcr
Although the Company has been formed nearly three
years IL IL only within the last twelve months that they
have been able 10 Introduce their hbrics into the mar
kct This delay was occasoned by several causes
Besides the difficulties attending the adaptation OF the
Jacquard apparatus 10 waterpOwer, which formed inc
main feature of the PLAN an unexpected obstacle was
encountered in the edousness OF the process by winch
the larger designs executed in the pattern cards
This occasoned such expenditure OF time and labor
that mpeded greatly the operations of the manuisc-
tre and added much 10 their cost to thereafter to
Jofoo tho oil m
based Mr.. Humeston applied himself at once to the
discovery Of some mechanical arrangement by which
the process might be expedited and after some months
labor be succeeded in perfectng machine which per-
forms at one operation all the manpulaons that were
hitherto effected in four This machine consists of the
usual stamping plates containing as many punches as
there are needles in the jacquard apparatus and cor
RESPONDING to the same scale IL runs upon an iron
track like a railway and its movements are regu-
lated by tie machinery connected with the Keys Inc
consists in the substitution of mechanical
mower for manual labor and by its aid the patterns are
puncbed out with as much rapidity and ease as II
The person controlling it were performing piece OF mu-
sic ON panoforte. The most complicated designs are
cut in less time by ii than the reading oil could
be performed in under the old method. Another im-
proyement has been effected by the construction OF
what is called 1.-THE Duplicating Machine" by which
single workman can cut in day 5000 cards for ma
chine of eco needles.
Another serious Inconvenience which the Company
had 10 encounter was the difficulty of procuring the
quality of silk suited to the requirements OF their man.
ufacture To guard against its recurrence at moment
when might ebarrass their operations they sent MT
Humeston to Europe to make selection OF the best
qualities produced in France and Italy aud to make
arrangements for regular supply OF them Neither
Chinese nor Indian silk is used in the manufacture OF
Brocaelle The Italian and French silks are preferred
for the closeness of their fiber quality essential In
stutfs having so dense surface
All the silk used in this establishment is prepared
ard owed on the premises. The mechanical arrange
ments of the dyeing department and the yaroos pro
cesses TO which the silk is subjected previous
TO its being ready for the resemble so close
" those which we had occasion to describe in our last
article that it is unnecessary for us TO recaptuste
them here In the dye-house there Is large steam
boiler which the double purpose oil heating the
buildings and supplying the hot water used IN tne watts
An abundant supply of excellent spring water is oo-
tanned from large we'll sunk fifteen feet below the
he'd of the river II is raised by orcepump to els
tern and is thence conveyed by pipes to different parts
of tSe PREMISES The qualities of the dyes have been
mueb improvea since this water has been obtained.
TIE river water which formerly used was full OF
Impurities arising from decayed vegetable matter and
other refuse Oated down from the iron and paper mills
situated higher up on the riyer.
made from original designs, the Company studiousy
avoiding copying from foreign patterns They employ
on experienced and skiul artist IN this department
whose labors have contributed IN no small degree 10
the when mas tut i"o
mode in which the designs prepared is the same as
that adopted for hand-weayng. The ARTIST hrst
sketches his conceptions on ordinary drawing paper,
and then transfers his sketch to the design paper
where is reduced to scale corresponding with the
Arrangement of the needles IN the jacquard apparatus
The sketch is then filed in with coors indicating by
their position the precise wArps and shoots which are
requisite for the production OF the figure Inc design
is now complete and ia ready for the operations oil the
machine which cuts the pattern cards.
The improved looms used in this establishment are
rrincipalv constructed of east iron They are sur
ronted Nv Jacouarls of 200 needles each, and the
combined weight Of each loom and apparatus Is about
two TINS These looms have movable shuttle boxes,
sordino facilities for introducing four different c0lors
into tie fabric which boxes are changeable az VIII Dy
the motions OF the jacquard One OF the prncpai oO
stacles to the application OF power TO the "eaV
inc of figured goods lies in the abrupt and violent Jerks
imrared to the delicate tissues Of the warp by the
cam motion This has been surmounted In the I'M
proyed loom which we are describing by such moulin
cation of the working parts as produces graduai ana
progressive movement adapting itself 10 the character
of the material II is the first power-loom which mas
been successfully applied to the execution OF eomp
Gated designs. By its means any variety OF inquired
weaving ard any number Of cOlors can be combined IN
the same web Ii moves at the rate Of hity PICKS
minute and viii produce at the rate 0i one huhaieu
and twelve picks to the inch OF cloth, nehes
in width or about six yards In day OF eleven hours
Tie average production Of the ordinary jacquard hand
loom is only about yard in the same number OF hours
Each loom is worked by a girl, who requires very
little previous experience TO manage IL pSriecey a4i
10 every six looms ia attached man called section
hand His business is 10 the warps properly Kept
nm. breakspes in the silk promptly repaired, and the
general machinery kept in good order The designer
superintends the mounting Of the looms and the pre-
PAL alton of the warps.
In order to give our readers some idea OF the manner
in which the operations of this particular branch OF
RNull q