The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1853-10-23

Olt mOpOb, INC WOfk OF LeCOl0te.
The wreath OF orange blossoms Is made by Con-
stsniine, and is very full over the temples with
dropping te0drils falling forward the bosom. The
Iuptal bouquet is of novel form, quite small, aud
falling in long spiral tensrls as low as the waist
This bouquet consists but of one single sprig with
buds it is made to be placed at the top Of the
sage towards one shoulder, the ribbon of the Graud
Crss being brought the other The ball dresses,
mace by Madame Bridaut, are OF all kinds. but the
most novel are those consisting Of a single flower,
silks or straw. The under skirt Is made much mar
rover than hitherto whilst the fiounce il gathered
into the waist in more numerous folds tnsn ha re as
yet been the mode. Some Of these in silk, embroi-
oeTed in seed pearl, have been exhibited with great
success The bottom of the skirt is quite plain.
while that OF the 1ouDce, shorter than the skirt by
six inches, IL deliberately embroidered, and
stands stitfiy out from the dress.
But little change is visible yet 10 walking dress.
No newer material than cordoDne d'ecosse has been
yentured as yet The tissue Is novel 10 is effect,
being shot with many colors, and thickly corded.
Some OF these suffs reflect many as five different
coloIs i'll the shot, which are SO arti,ttc1y ended
that the effect Of the whole is ueher harsh nor yoy
ant. Large checks are beginning to lose favor, and
are being last replaced by etoes rayees, small line
running across the stuff while broad stripe meets
the other The silks OF autumn hnis already exhibit
ing at the great houses more costly and splendid
than any have oehelo Tor years. The sole Bouch r.,
by Desle for evening wear, Is marvellous Tor its rich
ness and delicacy Of execution. Large patterns OF
served, once belonging to Madame Du Barry, have
been imi'ated with complete success. One OF hese,
destined for the Empress, struck us as being ex-
quisi,ely beautiful in its tone and nuance. Il is OF
sole PompadOur triple frame, tue gr nnd Of a pale
see-green. At wide intervals thrown upon white
ground. cast upon the surface if by careless
band the attributes Of the shepherdess-the basket
of flowers, the straw hat ana sky-olue ribbons the
crock and pipe-aD these executed with so much
delcacy ana neatuess that, in spite Of their I'M
vented size, 10 which eyes are, as yet but little
accustomed, they excite neither surprise criti-
cism. The dress was lying at Vic:orue's, ready for
trying on. II is nude Ii francois l., cut
square over the shoulders, with broad passe-
menterie, combining every color in the design,
with iassels of the Same colors crossing over the
bosom the sleeves quite tight aud fat descending
from the shoulder bat three IL ches and nis7e1 by
the enormous boufans, q la Medicis, SO much in
vogue just now aud which have completely snper-
seded the graceful sabots, la graud mere, which
have held their sway so long. These boutfaus were
tie elbow with deep fall of The same material
complete parure Is lie essary with this style of
dress, aud large ornaments OF sky blue and hight
green enamel are already presented by the jewellers
FRANCOIS |. Mach atteDt on has been given to the
confec'ion of winter cloaks. Talmas are exploded.
The Evangeline promises to continue in favo. Tor
young ladies'. Instead If being made in one mate
rial as was the case during the summer, e will be
made Of velvet or rich silk. while the flowers which
rach 70 the neck will be composed of broad ribbsn
laid on full plated. An entirely new model has
issued from the atelief of Madame Bridaux 1t is called
asouvenr, and consists Of oog paatot tunic, above
which the cloak falls as far as The hips, being gather
ed over the bosom aud the ends thrown across the
shoulder Its name is derived from the picture of
the great Napoleon at Versailles aud bears some
resemblance to the cloak he is represented to have
worn OH his passage over the Pyrenees. The mantle
Ia Maja is also novel and pretty. 1t fits tight over
the bosom and reaches to the knees; behind it is
short, not descending lower than the waist The
sleeves are almost tight, set into o round armhole
and braided from the shoulders 6ownwards with
broad lscet and tasses. This sleeve is turned back
almost to the elbow, showing the lining, generally
of some bright color. A small hood hangs over the
shoulder, also lined with the same bright neuance
and braided IN novel style. This form of 'maDteau
is, perhaps the newest we have yet seen, aud likely
to be much patronised owl t. it's extre me youth.
ful1ess and the warmth and comfort impaired by ts
fitting tightly over the BOSOM The great novelty
in sort!er de bal is t1e immense change wrought
by the adoption Of lace instead of ribbon as trim
ming. This lace, made expressly for the purpose,
is very rich and heavy, made to initiate the
transparent embroidery Of silk upon Brussels net,
first submitted to our notice by Madame Bri-
daut. BonSets have undergone total change since
last moi tn. The winter shapes fast appearing,
although made stl in light ma serias. They are no
longer open and GuaSe tn behind the as formerly;
but although not whit larger, seem to draw much
closer to the side Of the face TIE newest viii for
fashion we can scarcely call 1t, is tho total Alb
sence of any other ornament than a thick ruche,
ssting Of lace flowers aud large roseates of rib
bon laid atround the edge. The effect of this is
sirgulariy bewifchiDg-the face appearing to issue
from nest Of lace and flowers. The transparent
shadow thrown by this ornament is found to be most
becoming. 1t Is carried completely round the bon
pet even over the bavalet Coiffures determined
to remain turned back from the f.ce Others ad
mssable. The only novelty is The Marguerite, broad
ribbon Of bright coors, which, passing through tho
double bandeaux Ia left to encadrer the phsiegn0my
by coming down as low as the shoulders. 1t Ii
twisted spray, and is sometimes carried from one
side Of the lead the other without being divided
The Princess Mathilde has adopted the Marguerite,
and it is destined to be ss universally worn as the
couture la Felix now exploded. Its to Leopold
we owe the invention, and 1t has been successful.
We have seen q dress of Chantilly blonde trimmed
for the Queeu OF Sardinia Each founce ornamented
with punches of the small star Of Bethlehem, de-
creasing in size az they approach the waist. The
brides Of lace which have replaced the berthe, as
ornament to to the shoulders, also orDsmented
with smaller bouquets OF che same flower The effect
vas that OF the most fairy like freshness and beauty.
Const sItn has been most sue .essfu however III his
pantes parietarjes, of which he has composed seve
raj for the Empress to decorate the costumes
de bal required by her Majesty for her tournce in the
provinces.
Our general observations Although the month
is considered but trarsitory space from one style
OF fashion to another. yet the Initiated may, at this
time, perceive what is going to be. Necklaces,
for instaI ce, which have SO long been for
gotter are revived by the greatest jewellers,
slope of the Eeck and to lie fat all round Stars
and roseates of colored stones encirce the throat
and between each tassels Of gold descend lightly,
and diminish the stiffness Of the ornament. The
large beads, called bombes, are also being intro
duced for appreciation. They are Of dark blue lava,
malachite or coral The old rocco chops have been
ransacked for specimens Of this article worn by
our gIandmcthers- Shoes, alas, are worn entirely
without sandals, q result of which we have been in
dread for the last few months. The fashion Is now
quite prononce, and it is useless to struggle against
it.. large bow Of ribbon, Of nuance some what
lighter than that of the slipper is much approved;
but cannot help considering the fashion as slo.
veny and negligent, and sincerely trust it will Drove
but caprice. Meyer has been making the most
charming sabots Of walnut wood, TO supersede the
ugly c0ntrivances for carriage. even during the win
ter. It is the most delightful chaussure possible
elegantly carved on the instep, AID lined with pink
or blue plush. The wearer may, thus chausseed,
DEFY both cold and damp; the satin shoe leaves the
sabot uns oiled and uninjured Nothing more grace
full and coquet, yet useful withal, has ever been
presented TO our fair fasbopables.
Pocket bandercbefs are still made with frliug,
embroidered at the edge Much Of the linen made
for the tronsses Of the Empress of Austria presents
the novelty of being embroidered in colors-some Of