The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1853-02-17
News for the Ladies'.
THE PARIS FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY-MAD'LLE c.

DEBUT-THE NEW EMPRESS.
From the London Court Journal, Jan %.
There has been more variety in fashion during the
late month than have behed for the whole OF the
previous winter quarter. Gold and silver, although
still reigning paramount, are beginning to suggest
Iyaship and other materials equaling their splen.
to claim share Of the favor they have been en-
crossing wholly to themselves during the last few
weeks. For walking-dress the robes a baguettes
@ to behold the condence with which thy
spring colors and spring fashions are adopted in our
promenades, in consequence of the unreasonable
mildnees Of the weather. Several of the robes q
baguettes have been worn in black taffetas grand
mere the baguettes Of bright colored plaid patterns
about four inches wide at the bottom Of the skirt,
and decreasing In width as they approach the waist
The effect OF these dresses, when worn with the
short mantle rotonde, is very novel, giving an APP
pearance of great Smartness and lightness to the
figure. With this costume the bonnet should be of
black velvet with rows of lace and velvet forming
the passe very narrow plaid ribbons are laid along
each of lace and at the sides over the ears are
placed short pleureuses of the colors contained in
the plaid. Beneath the brim, which is very
wide, and turned over more back from the face
than was the fashion last month, large bright
colored flowers with long dropping leaves are placed,
and an aureole Of blonde all round the edge is
finished by q narrow rouleau of the same plaid
ribbon, which is laid fat the outside. The casaque
Complies ne has been much adopted by the ladies Of
the Imperial Court. 1t is Of dark colored CLOTH fit
ting tight to the figure, with long basques, which
fall over the hips in three full paits on either side
fiat chef OF dead gold is placed Brandenburg
down the front, and the gathers the hips two
Of the same chef are confined by two large fiat
buttons likewise of dead gold. This casaque is but
toned close up to the throat and, Immediately be-
meath the chin the two corners of the Valenciennes
cravat, worn la mousguetaue, are visible. No or
nament Of any kind is worn with this casaque which
exacts the utmost symmetry of form in order to be
becoming to the wearer. The skirt which completes
the costume, is generally of rich, dark colored da
mask, made rather longer behind than has been con-
sidered necessary during the last few phases Of
fashion. This new article of dress is considered of
the highest ton, and when worn by hight and youth
full figure has an effect perfectly irresistible. 1t is
however, in ball dress that the greatest novelties
have been produced, and we have to record one or
two decided hits which have been made by the great
designers. The first must be mentioned as the robe
Serniramis, from the loom of Deise, the spendor of
which has never been surpassed. The ground OF the
dress of the finest cloth of gold and the brocaded
pattern of the most brilliant coors artfuy combn
ed that the rich masses of flowers mount towards the
waist their taints become fainter and fainter until
they appear Of the most delicate hue. At the knee
they are woven all of one size and color, mark
ing the dress into tunic shape, and thereby reliev
ing the skirt from the overwhelming splend0r of the
pattern. The robe Cachemire, less rich, but more
elegant is of white silk; the three deep ounces en-
broidered in gold palms upon bright green ground
The corsage is made en- chdte, and the small open
sleeves of rich embroidery are finished at the shout
der by Psyche epaulette, brocaded to match the
that the Duchess de Theba seen at the opera on
the first night of the new ballet, and the finishing
touch given, by her exquisite taste, to this charm
ing costume, by the bright green Delhi scarf, EN-
broidered in the finest gold, which she over her
shoulders on that occasion, elected the greatest ad
miration. The head dress composed entirely of
foliage completely envelopng the chignon and railing
into the neck behind. The peculiar elegance of this
entirely new couture IL due to the inventive genius
of Constantin.
Nothing could be more difficult than the design of
some novel ornament which should not spoil the
round shape of the head considered at the present
moment an Indispensable attribute of fashion. This
new wreath called IN Tn,ttsnue because IL brings
to mind by its light tendrs and small starry flowers
in gold with which it is interspersed those garlands
Of fresh leaves worn by the native girls in the islands
Of the Pacific, and so much admired by the nayi-
gators who first landed there.
For young ladies the designers have not been idle,
and have succeeded in producing material intended
to vie with the gold and silver worn by their mar.
red rivals and to prevent their being utterly crushed
in ballroom by the greater magnfcence of the
toilets Of their chaperones. This robe pailletee is
also due TO the inventive genius Of Delise. 1t is of
tarlatane or gauze Chambery. The 1ounces are
three in number, the upper one being gathered in
with the folds of the skirt These founces are
frappe, in a white pattern on a colored ground,
either pink, blue, or delicate sea green. The pat
tern is followed throughout by an outline of glitter
ing parcelles of diamond dust To describe the bril-
liant yet perfectly simple effect of this novel expert
nent would be perfectly impossible The chasteness
Of the coloress diamond which causes the pattern TO
sparkle with the unobtrusve brilliancy OF frost and
prevents not the dress from being perfectly youth
fol- while II glitters with brightness which com
pletely extingushes the more coarse and vulgar
glare OF the gold and silver with which il comes in
contact IS perfect chsfd Gvcre of artistic effect.
At the late ball of the Tleries, these robes paile-
tees were beheld for the first time, and created an
Immense sensation; the fair wearers-not more than
haI dozen 10 nnmber-ieing surrounded by a