New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1853-06-11
BAYARD TAYLOR'S LETTERS
LXXXU
visit TO the Ruins Of Fuitshp ore-sikrce.

been the favore residence of Akbar,) from the
tent and magnifcence Of it, remains and l postponed
Tor another day. though reluctantly my departure for
Delhi Mr. Sherer, one Of she Secretaries Of Govern
Il men kindly offered to accompany me, and through his
familiarity with the history Of those times, the de-
,oate spot peopled for with the phantOms OF
ito former inhabitants have rarely had the Past so
yiy restored, completely given myself up 10 It's
lusiocs The day Of the whitest in my calen-
da and not unwOrthytO be chrosiced beside the
| Orable ThebaR days of = year past
In order tomake the excursion in single dsy Iha1
lays Of horses sent out in advance and took my departure
before sunrise in light garee-a two wheeled vehicle,
resembling a eehtee cart. The road was broad and
GOO for tie first eight miles, and bOrdered by stately
aca "a, peepu ard neem trees passed two three
lal walled gardens, belonging TO native Bashs, aud
clei ly little village with several small temples TO
YsHau and silva. The road gradually became rOIgher,
though the country still continued level and toeraby
cultivated My horses. inspired by the pleasant morn
ing air. tr0ted merriy along aud before three hours
were over FuttehpOre-Sikree was in view. low range
Of red sandstone hills appeared in the west with here
and there cumblng ruin the crest. The extremity
of this range about four miles distant covered with
Of walls terraces and spires, crowned with ma
iestic portal, which high above them, cleaning
against the sky with soft red uster the shone
full upon il.
AsI approached nearer found that this part of the
hill was surrounded with lofty wall of red sandstone,
with machicolated or nOched parapet and spacious
GATE through which my road ran. 1t Is almost entire
and upward of six miles in circuit inclOSng portion of
the plain on both sides of the hill Driving through the
deserted gateway was amazed at the piles OF ruins
which met my eye. Here was narrow HILL nearly
mile and half in length, end averaging hundred feet
in hight almost entirely covered with the remains of
palaces mosques and public buildings, in places
nearly as perfect when first erected, in others little
else than shapeess masses Of hewn stones Innumera
bic pavlions resting open arches cupoas and ur
res shot up from this picturesque cOnfusiOn but the
great portal of which have already spoken dominated
ALL colossal as one Of the pyOns of Karnak. The
series of arched terraces rising above another up
the sides of the HILL gave the place air of barbaric
grandeur, such as imagine Babylon to have pos
sessed and OF which there traces in Martins pic
lures But here there nothing sOmbre or stern;
the bright red sandstone of the buildings, ilumned
here and there by gilded spre, bathed in flood
of sunshine and stood shadowless almost TO lack
perspective, against cOudless sky The modern vii
lsge of FuttehpOre at the foot Of the bill adorned
with beautiful trees and that part of the plain ncOsed
within the ancient walls green with fields Of young
wheat.
drove through the long, rambling street Of Futteh-
pore not without considerable risk of destroying the
stock of the native merchants for the space between
their shop boards scarcely wider than my garree.
Then. owing 10 the stupidity OF the groom, who had
missed the road was obliged to return came, and
finally climbed the hill on foot found Sr Sherer, who
had come out during the qightin paanquin in the pal
ace Of Raiah Beer Bull Of Akbars Prime Ministers.
1t is an exquisite building quite uniDured and has been
fitted up with tables chairs carpets &C. for the
nence of visers TO the place. There was table set 10
cool yaulted hall in the second story and r Sherers
servants were preparing breakfast In the Raahs kitchen
We took seats on the massive stone terrace of the
palace to await the meal The royal residence of Akbar
was on our left the grand Durgah, or tomb Of Shekh
Selim Chishti the right and the empty quadrangles
into which We looked showed no trace OF ruin The
stone payemnts partly 0yerrun with grass but not
block Of the arched corridors surrounding them had
tumbed from its place. How like yesterday seemed the
Futtehpore of three centuries ago. The palace was de-
serted not ruined and its lord not dead but absent
/ felt like an intruder in the scuptured chambers of
BeerBul and should not have been much surprised had
chObdar, with his silver mace made his appearance TO
drive me away.
The guardian of the place, a lusty old Mussuman,
named Shekh BusharatAG, came to make his saaam
and accompany the ruins. He is q stout man
of fty.fye, with grey mOustache and face express
siye Of great good will and gOOdhumor. He wore
white turban and cotton gown, tied on the left shout
der so as 10 expose the left side of most sleek and
capacious chest The Hindoos and Parsees tie their
garments the right shoulder in opposition to the
Mussulman Busharat-Ali was very deyOut follower
of the Prophet and knew most Of the Koran in Arabic
He was greatly delighted when addressed him in that
language and thereafter was continually repeating pray
ers and singing passages of the Koran that might per-
ceive how much he knew. His knowledge of Futteh-
pore was much inferior to that of Mr. Sherer who has
carefully studied the history OF Akbars reign, but he
was pleasant companion during rambes among the
ruins and suffered him to go through with his stories
and traditions as usual.
After breakfast we set ont to make thorough sur
yey of the place should first state that FuehpOre-
Sikree was country residence OF Akbar, and stood in
the sames relation to Agra that Windsor Castle does to
LoIdon 1t completed in 1871, and for twelve years
bis court was stationed there. At that time it must
have been pOpulOus place bat il is probable that the
dwellings of the lower classes Of the natives consisted
then as now OF mud huts for there very few ruins
on the plain surrounding the hill The existence Of
Mint and other public edices, on very large scale,
show that it was considered temporary capital, "a
Their than as mere palace OF summer resort
Commencing with the EmperOrs palace, We first Wis
tied the separate dwelling assigned to his Christian wife,
This unlike other Moslem buildings. is covered with
paintnps in fresco evidently by Persian artists They
are said TO represent the adventures OF the hero Rsum
ss related in Frdus's "Siahnameh.' Certain inches
however over the doors and windows, contain pictures
of different character, and certainly have religious
sieuifcance. On side the HndOO gods aud god
desses-the elephant headed Ganeish, MahadeTa and
Lokshm- and the other two tablets almost Obliter-
ated but still sufficiently distinct to show that one of
them intended for the Annuncation. Akbar latitude
in religious matters is well known but had given
him credit for much federation this would imply
Among the orLam nal designs of this palace the Greek
Gross not unusual and is related that when the JeE
uits solicited the EmperOrs protection, he replied to
them: What would you have! See. | have more
crosses on ny palace than you IL your churches.
The buildings of the palace the crest of the hill
having superb views both sides many league
ofhe fruitful plain There is quite labyrinth Of courts
pavilions small palaces, gateways tanks fountains and
terraces, and found difficult To obtain clear idea of
preserved that trifiDg expense would make them hab
table For scholar or poet can conceive Of no more
delightful residence Adjoining the palace Of the Chris.
tan woman, stands the PaHeh-Mdhal, Give Palaces)
consisting Of FIVE square platforms, resting richly
carved pillars and rising above another in a pyra-
midal form, 10 considerable hight Mr. Sherer sup
poses il have been a sleeping place for the servants
uith he Rav z IL a Il