The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1853-01-14
Interesting Fashionable Intelligence.
SOME ACCOUNT OF TIKI PARIS FASHIONS FOR JANU-
ARY-MA0NIFICENT DRESSES.

influences oil farls that IT would desperate en-
deavor were to be made to the emulation which
produced by the nomination Of the Emperor Napoleon
and the return to show and spendor exhibited at
that period OF his reign The fashion has twice made
effort to rerograde towards the time of the first Empire
but without The short waists have gradually
heightened during the past month until they have reach
ed their former depth the light scanty bodies have
gained their full proportions and everything has returned
to its accustomed order The first thing which strikes
the decided change in the forms Of coaks and
which has taken place during the last few weeks Dresses
for full and court costume have exhibited much novelty
while those for the promenade to remain stationary
novel material made Of vegetable silk and called sole
Caroline has by admitting mixture Of coors given
adegree Of freshness to the eaage OF one or two OF the
frsrate magasins but it Is of too hard and tex
ture to hang in folds graceful enough for winter wear
but the colors admirable and the simple checks OF
this stuff have been much in request by the leaders OF
fashion caprice to vary the monotony OF the very
few materials from which to choose during the winter
Velvet entirely discarded for promenade cos
tune and superseded by damask; this though the
finest manufacture Of silk which exists excepting
MORE antique, has need to be still enriched with
rows of velvet Of watered ribbon before it is
siddered splendid enough to please our elegantes.
High bodies are all made with revers and pastron
deliberately ornamented with velvet embroidery
This style of dress is exceedingly becoming and
advantageous to the figure the novelty the CONNECTION
of the body consisting in the substitution Of thick den
tee de bourre de Sole initiating guipure Of the
Tor the dress for the deep fringe which this style Of
Turque open the outside of the arm and
at the edge with quilting or embroidery An endeavor
has been made by certain dresmakers to introduce the
manche baon straight from the shoulder and gathered
into broad wristband, but without success The eye,
accustomed to the graceful OF the open sleeve
longer accept the mesqunerie of the frightened wrist
All dresses whether for the promenade the salon. or the
ball room decidedly made in the skirt and
aer at the hips than they have hitherto BEEN but that
is the only symptom have behed Of that return to the
modes Of the empire of which the journals have spoken
much and for which there greater foundation than
this dmnuton to allow of the very full trimmings of vel
vet and passementere with which the skirts
mented 1t is at this of the year that the least
novelty always expected in robes dc VILE the inven
ton of great confeconeuses is entirely expended
upon the elegance of the cloak and mante destined to
conceal them. visit to the atelicr Of Madame Louise
Pcyrot completely bewilders with the variety and
richness which in day exhibited in the compost
ton of this single article of dress formerly considered
siactoy by the display Of one novelty in the course Of
the Here find every kind of cloak, mantle,
scarf and manla, which please the most caprcous
fancy Madame Peyrot's surprise has been adopted by
the ladies of the Eysee for the journey to Compegne
and is perfectly in design. 1t is of the rotonde
shape ornamented over the shoulders with rich en-
deep fall of guipure follows this embroidery all round
the mantle and ut the edge is another of rich
broidery Of the same gupure The effects OF this imita
! ton of the lace which is made to badner by the EN-
broidery which lies fiat is very beautiful being rich and
light at the time The Maltese fadezza made also
by Madame Peyro promises to become the fashion Its
Of the exact shape that by the ladies of Malta
straight the shoulders and descending low in front
profuson of garnture of ribbon and jet ornaments the
waist and falls the with grace which be-
long this form of mantle alone Bows of ribbon with
long ends gather up the mantle at the elbows thus OBJ
ing the contour of the figure with the most wtchng effect
The maneau ala Francais is made exclusively Of velvet
edged with double row OF bright satin ribbon broad
revers reaching from the shoulders downward is lined
and bordered like the rest of the mantle The design Of
this cloak has been much approved Of for the elegance Of
its fit the shoulders and the peculiar manner in
which it dsengages the waist. All these mantles
made without sleeves and meant to be thrown back
in the front when the use of the hands is ured
sortc de bal which at the attelier destined
for the Princess Ypsanti struck by its elegant smp
city 1t of white cachmere lined throughout with
cOlored velvet The ribbon with which edged Of
novel kind embossed in imitation Of wreaths OF
small hood lined and edged in the manner lay
the waist Another opera cloak, called reasonable
| also of white cachemere lined with white plush
and richly embroidered with passementere The form OF
the reasonable is entirely new folding the bosom and
closing at the throat thus entirely protecting the
from the night airthe first time any intention Of the
kind has been manifested by the inventors of these
articles Of Dress which hitherto been executed With
more regard to elegance than comfort.
Tho great couurieres have been most wofuly distress
ed and hurried during the last fortnight BY the journey
to Compiegne and is for dinner and ball dress that
their invention has been most taxed We have vstet
two Of the where the preparations fo
the journey were going forward, and have discovered
amongst the newest in point Of fancy Madame de Persg
nys robe nebuleuse This ball dress is composed Of whit
tuie with three broad aounces each aounce Is edge
placed at equal distances sprgs OF fuscha with hanging
petals Of gold In the waltz polka the effect Of thi
light and aerial trimming is most marvellous The Golf
fure with the Of the same white
with fuschia and long endr Of gold seeming to sprn
from all parts of the head Dress and forming Of tn
! most charming ornaments beheld. The trimming
for evening" whether for mere receptions concerts
balls, must, de rigueur, be composed entirely o
gold silver and It is astonishing, already, to be
hold how deadened is the effect of those fresh ant
simple toettcs used greatly to admire last year
with gold thread have been composed and are worn
on tunc dresses with long ends Of gold ribbon floating
all around the skirt does the taste get corrupt
ed IN these matters that who the first to
excaim against this abuse Of gold and silver begin
to admire the ingenuity Of your artists who contrve
still much in evening toilet. Embroidery in gold
and silver application Of gold blonde and embossing Of
in the fashion most expensive and serious undertaking
We have seen robe en- embroidered for the Prin
cesse Mathilde which miracle Of delicate taste anc
embroidered in three Of bright gold reaching about
half yard from the bottom. Over this short skirt
white silk edged with gold blonde Of light and elegant
pattern, Topped at the knee with large bouquet
pink and white azaea, from which depended shower o.
leaves and tendrils in gold The body made
the sleeves Long barbes Of gold blonde, fastened BY
punches Of pink and white azaea formed the head
with this charming costume andformed tout
BILE OF most finished taste and perfection.
En- somme let fair votaries of fashion lay few &c
neral rules to heart to guide their toilet for the coming
season All coifures, full dresses scarfs &C. must be
ornamened with gold and silver Bouquets longer
mode worn at the bosom WASTE but by way Of
pensaton those carried in the hand Of tremendous
the color only being allowed to vary Gloves worn
without the ornamental tops hhertoi vogue and brace
e,s hang isom the arm ~
Pocket handkerchefs embroidered in very deep
festoons some, indeed, with deep Aounce encirclng
bottles long and fat and covered with gold
passemenerie new fan, espignole, which folds at
the joint has just been introduced and Is destined to be-
come popular from the convenience Of folding it while
dancing.
So great has become the rage for elaborate trimming
that the old profession of parleuse much in request
during the reign Of Marie Anonett has been revived at
the Mason de Marie by NJ Courboulay and already dis
plays many thousand varieties Of gaurage ruchage and
parhage, in every form and material which the imagna
ton can conjure up The trimmings all made ready
to be applied and in different sizes for skirt and body
which renders the task of the couturicre
Gatherings for head dresses bonnet Innings, all made
with the freshness which only be acquired by fingers
accustomed to other work manufactured by Mon.
seur Courboulay, and help TO show the wisdom of
grandmothers, who maintained, exclusive profess
lion the workwomen employed in this light and delicate
art new couture has been received with much favor.
II consists of broad plat laid fiat the back of thu
head the ends concealed beneath the wreath Of velvet
and gold "a la RacheD which cncirclcs the temples.
From either end Of the p hang long ends Of velvet and
gold ribbon which appear to fastcn the front hair which
turned back from the forehead and passed behind the
The invention of this couture due to the fancy of
- 80.