The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1853-09-23
THE VIVID OF FASHION.


Inaugu alton Of the Es. s..san-Intcrcst-
ing 10 sne Laoses, a. 90.
Tho sopepDs day" Of the season has pssse~ One asy
in .be spring one dsy the fail are set ap~ bv
the leaders Of hon in this city for "opeDins exoi
bitten Their elegant salons and boutques we're crowded
yesterday with ades full OF the importance Of the 0cca
lion. The day passed of charuiDgy.
Auotner revolution in the world of fashion The
sbright besm SUNNI err" with its gossamer fabrics and
subdusd colors slowly retreating, and autumn with
its richer, deeper thsdss its harmonious blending of
dark ard bright-autumn, natures happy compromise
extremes it's warm moons recalling the past
ard Its chilly ewes forewarnipg Of the tuture-is
among us. "Weicoms the coming, speed the parting
guest" sAd Homer and say, and SO 90, our faahon
able modistes.
We ought to be thankful that the incoming fashions
are SO tasteful ard besomng for what could We do II
they were the unless gifted with the peculiar
organization that enables the Boomers to make head
against the tides The greater part OF wonankind now
ever fortunately for the modse think, with French
w,iter-no inc ompstent ausho ty on such subject
"However ridiculous fashions may be- 1t Is still
more ridiculous not TO conform to them"
70 arrive at Just idea Of importance attached by
some to uge of the uunitiated should assist
at the opening Of fashionable millinery establishment
The outside world passes from one season to another
without noci ~ the boundaes that divide them 1t re-
mains calm ard upconcerDed aHaid the excitement which
copvuses the fashionable crowd that glide or jostle
through the spacious hho~ rooms TO them there ID
10 change the weather the I'd Of October Is o. 2d
Of Sepember Not with the others to them 1t Is d
fersnt season From early hour the are crowd
ed with anxious vster eager to and to possess the
newest STYLE OBSERVE them Some stroll about casting
cursory glance the different offsets others examine
with curious interest," old aees admire young ladies try
en- gentlemen lean against the doorpots or the fireplace
passive spectators and the polite and Assiduous proprie
tor assisted by efficient staff Of young ladies' attends
to all An attentive observer may notice among the
crowd fey who pass quietly from room to room without
the lsess look of those ~ho come to vile away morn
ing the sbso bed air of persons intent on purchasing
They examine infinitely the crop of leather the posi-
ton of bow, the length Of string-nothing escapes
them and In Gay 60 after you Will see duplicates OF
the Partisan hats you admired much the
sho staring you from unpretendng store
In Hudson or Canal street unmistakabe American make.
We have heard OF milners who once 3 year made
Paris OF their attic and remained in it Eve six
weeks the time manufacturing the most recherche
French Styles and in the evening coming OUT with the
bat for air. Thus they lived until vessel arrived from
Hsv1e ard then they landed with the latest Paris
fashions As Paris goods they were extolled highly
had they been label. American who tasteess to
admIe2 At the present momsntPaIis rules the fashion
able world with rod OF iron but sym ptous Of insub
ordination beginning to set in. "Yes very pretty"
said dsngus looking lady to some high flown lsuda.
tops OF new style of hat dress "yes very pretty
but want style of my ~n" And rhe right There
ought be as much individuality In dress in character
Bonnets caps CROWNS and pointed fonts. prevail but
the great diversity in material and style Of trimming
relieves the eye and prevents any appearance Of dull
uniformity Velvet satin and dotted silk in the
ceDdsnt and wers and feathars tar above par One
style Of trimmig the couture narquise " formed Of
ostr ch feathers tipped with marabOut Is exceedingly
tight and graceful. Tho inside Of tho hat is generally
prousslv trimmed giving that the hair will DC
worn la Madonna wreath OF doTers in The inside is
much worn, and has very pleasing eff when the
colcrs suit the complexion; the full bio flowers are ar
o. the ear buds and sprngng forming
narrow band the forehead Vloets ani white OF
moss roses look particularly elegant lie renaissan
another style Of front trimming composed of flowers Of
darker hue inermjxed with gilt arrays or ornaments
is rich and becomiog Every color aud every shade OF
color from the pearly white to the brown Is
worm Is The favorte particularly that shade
known the Maple green, or reI de mer. Straw il
much used in bonDess-Tiscan. plain aud faocy stra
and looks very dist,ngue mmed with ~hite and mar
about feathers. So also do guipae st.aw bonnets trim
med with white roses and leaves.
HEADDREssEs.
These "becomlpg little vauities" as Dickens would
say vary conedera ~ in design aud naaterial Some
formed 81 tue and ribbons with streaming opets
evidently intended for ms.roas; others, with delicate
spring flowers go wing aatn nps ones, with pen1aa
aheIy sprays floating d,wn the back suggest the iiss
youth and beauty and again another faoc, watts
you the shores OF the Medi for there sds
Of supure lace and ooons is the very picturesque hte
caps worn by the dark ey ed daue ssrs of Naples.
DRESSES
The principal material is plain snd plaid silks and ~
taas d IAla The waist Is made according to taste
high, Ia Eugenja low. u Ra phael with rounded
ard quines open coins and crosei WITH
berds la Sussse Sleeves lde open TO the elbow
with bal under or com posed OF
boaons separated by bracelets THIS Las. style
is termed sicliennss The sesve ZEN to the elbow,
is frequently attached by bows of ribbons vi h foat
eras agreeing contrasting With the color Of tbs
Sleeves also made short and bogdates and trimmed
with fringe.
MORNING DRESSES.
Wbi-e muslin dress OF the same, trimmed
with painted aounces and koots of bae riooon small
lace cap with oa Ing ends thrown back rossttes of
blue CT lilac the esr-this 10 simple aud
becoming tot &C. Another pretty nesltee is made Of
nses Of velvet and oInameptod with gold gimp
couture Of lace and lilac aud COLA intermixed
BALL DRESSES
White crgandy ofDaneBtsd with bunches OF flowers
eb, o:de,ed in silk a,d Of gauze ribbons
popdirQ IN color with ths embroidery rne coiffute
should be made Of fl, Bali d.es-es also mace
Of psy co@red taft, tas, white bue, pale cllor
with or without Hounces The white orgen1y parsems
win a wers 10 youthful and elegant in the extreme
An thsr ball dress Ia nadeOt ~h.s tn L. the jum Of
Which there three edged wh cherry coored
velvet, and rurnouD,ed BY Gordon Of cherry coorsd
fwers arranged in tre Bay STYLE Some made
Of white .ilk fouucsd win tIletana Of the
and orDsmentsd with ~reatns OF flowers Lilac ta.ls
tame forms very pretty ball costume; the cofsage is
loo drawn in la rTge aud orpsmented with bou1ue
Of flo xe1s wreath of lilac daioies In the hair
ctmi Letter the dIess.
EVENING DRESSES.