The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1853-12-19


ing the services Of surgeoo t. extract It, He Is this
morning quite comfortable and will probably recover
Paris Fashions
from the LONDON Court Jourra al Nov 20
The effects of the approaching fin dannee are be-
ginning TO be visible enough in the exhibition Of
Lew ly-invented materials for dress and adornment
which are put forth every DAY for the temptation of
the pretender to fashion. Not one of the great ma
gasiIs de houveautes but has expended some pains
and trouble to attract attention for the coming event
full epoch Of etrenDes aud freely displays the trea
sures which have been withheld until this moment.
Burty, of the Rue Rich ellen, whose vast mag asins
have been visited almost in secret by the initiated
few, has given to the world during the month the
and French looms. First of all stands his robe Hor.
tense, chefdauvr of skill 1t is composed Of
double lampas lilac, maize, or sea green, shot
Witch With w ad.c The ns skirt is b,as st
color Of the dress is employed in the pattern,
which gradually softeps off into the most delisate
nuance to that Of the ground: Between each
effect Of two skirts looped up at intervals round the
front. The girsndOle, another charming device of
Burtys, is Of light silk, with brocaded LOUNGES in
small sparkling prismatc pattern, initiating, with
drops of the chandelier. The clsn Ecossais is Of
black or dark. colored reps. The founces, four in
number, are edged with broad band of velvet, wo-
ven in the stuff, Of variegated plads, comprising
the other with marvellous ingenuity and taste. An
entirely new disposition for carriage wear has met
with great success, in spite Of its expensive charac
ter. 1t is called velours d'Aexandre, and consists
Of rich silk ground mostly Of the kind called gros
de Tours, with horizontal stripes of narrow black
velvet woven in the stuff, and producing the
richest effect imaginable The carreau ctsle is
another fantaisie presented by Burty, and worthy
squares OF black velvet bordering the 1ounces
With caste lated edge correcting the stiff and formal
effect OF the square bordering. The new ideas of
robes l'Egyptienne with the marrow fringes Dor
Memphis, a fEnusque a la Sesostris 80 much the
vogue at present, originated also with Burty The
fri &c Is woven in the stuff and surrounds the pat
tern, throwing it, as il were into the shade, and
sparkling with every tint of the rainbow whenever
the weaver is in motion. An entirely new fashion
has been observed of Late which is said to have been
the invention OF the Empress. Dresses Of white or
brilliant colored tafetss with ounces to the waist
the bordering Of which alternates thus the one at
the bottom Of the skirt Of most brilliant design either
plaid, spotted, or girandoe the next one bro
caded in various nuan;es, camaieux, the color
Of the dress, and 30 on to the top Of the skirt.
We have seen one Of these dresses made for the
Court, in honor Of the mourning for the Queen of
Portugal TWAS of lavendergray, alternate founces
worked in white and black jet, the others emb-oder
ed in laveDders!lk. The new color, jaime Nankin,
with which we are presented, has been carried even
to velvet, and trimmed with silver blond has been
twice seen at the evening receptions at Fonainebeau.
This color, which we have endeavcred in vain to
denomnate abrieot and saun,o, still maintains its
usurpation over every other No toilet is complete
without some article or other of this nuance Black
ribbon spotted with for the hair knots Of this color
are embroidered with silver to loop up ball dresses;
it is even permitted to encirce the face in dessous
de ch0peau as well as the throat In the neisd gallant
worn IN narrow ribbon for evening costume. The
vert de Chine-also an entirely new coor-appears
to US the most brilliant and becoming green ever yet
invented admirably suited to blond compilations.
The Empress wore dress of this ceor on the day Of
her fete The dress was made by Madam Roger her
Msjesty's dressmaker while she was still hdle. de
Montijo, and who preserves the privilege Of max
ing Der Majesiys dress for all occasions OF family
solemnity. The dress in question was made quite
plain, with . short casaque, embroii Tered Ia
smyrniote, in dead gold. There was no corsage
70 the drss, but the casaque was open to display
the white satin chemisette (trimmed with gold
guipme, and closed by emerald buttons,) which
was worn beneath The great event to mark the
progress Of fashion has been, however, the exhi.
bition, at Vctoane's, OF thu dresses sent to q
tain Imperial Princess Of Russia, whose name was
not suffered to tsnspiIe They were eleven
in number and the cost Of the whole was sixty
elk thousard francs One Of the dresses was re.
naIkabe aoo much studied by the other fashionable
coutureres as bearing Indication Of an approaching
change in bal costume for the ensuing wEter. II il
called by Victorne robe Empire, and consists of
Two skirts the one plain and fitting to the agure the
u depi train. Both skirts were bordered BY
deep gold chef, or 0;, iochee in WIDTH above which
IRE placed at intervals small bouquets of rubiss
and eneralds. The ctrsage was made antique fash
ion, with folds On tuyau dorgue spreading TO wards
the shoulder m under corsage cosposed entirely
q gold tissue, fitting sight 10 the shape ROC. above
tbe folds, and was Terminated by badin of lace
rouI tie bosom The sleeves, very short, were
formed OF the same tuyaux dorgue, and finished by
'De 600 Chef from these 50 all sleeves hung long
maocbes Oriehtales OF the fI eat lace, open to the
top, and secured here and there by bouquets of
jewels A rose-co!ored velvet was covered en-
tirely with hounces of guipure fine, each founce
headed with noeuds galants Of velours amaranshe,
each knot fastened with an ornament of briliants
Another velvet dress mOuchete in black let
Three hounces Of black Cbanty lace headed By
jet embroidery Of the finest description vas carried
down en- pente over the hOunces, combining them az
Intervals. The corsage was made la Refine Blanche
with deep basque falling the hips and ter nj
mated by deep row OF lace iooisg the flowers on
the skirt, acd ornanented with the same let en-
broi6ery. Altogether the exhibition excited the
creates; admiration and visited ny all the beau
monde OF Paris to whom cards Of Invitation we're
sert The magnificent drawing room was closed
from the light Of day. and brilliantly lighted by the
scented rose colOred tapers used at the Russap court
All the FIRST jew ,llers Wed with each other in
their alecrity to complete the effect of Vito
rue's WORK by the loaG Of their finest jewell; and
thus these splendid costumes were viewed by the
brilliant clientele Of the great couturiere in all their
magnidcence, exactly as they will be worn. The
secret OF their destination was well kept; the
Der OF the dresses seemed strange one but Partisan
osfucs soon discovered that the wanting t. com
rlete the dozen must be the bridal dress Just con-
pleted by Madame Bridaut, Of the Rue de la Bourse
aud which is also destined for Russia. IL Is of white
lsmpas perfectly plain embroidered en- pente in the
most exquisite design Of seed pearl and foss silk