The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1853-11-16


calendar hiss come To close without making 50 sensible
an impression up the Daylight Appearance of fasf o,s
,oes ~ thst which hss been observed ia ormer years
The return Of tie warm Gays and bright sunshine has
evidently caused lingering look behind At the gay
m-r stuus and light oonns's about 30 he abandoned fr
ever Ihus, While the OF taste aud fs lion
have been more busy than during he whole year pre-
yous no symptom of change is Yet behsie In our re-
unions And propeDsdes. The O,tob-r NEE ing Of the
Academy Of Taste held the 10th at the Athsnes
des Arts, and mor- nuussrously attended than
remember 10 have been tho case many years For
the rst tine did The designers and emb oderers claim
place NJ the board. snc we're admitted with srsat
coneistulation ts their brothers in heart The de-
prom, uneed perfect THESE o5asst chiefly Of large
p.tterns upon chine grounds, which the looas of
l~ile alone Can execute ard which have of lae bsen
despatched even rs far China great has ben the
which they have The dessins Corinhsns Of
c white mofe we're received with sccls nations Of
applause The stuff for lighter wear. called grain de
peudre, also sminsntly successful 1t has many
nex lights In the and with the velvet trimming
posed of the est hues in the stuff declared
to compose chez dGsare in toilet The stuff is produced
by new desc, iDuon al loom, sbch kas the power of
throwing several coors at time and thus each mi
mute dot stapcug rom he ground possesses in itself
the whole of The coors in the silk The drap dss
dames-a species az silken cloth-wHs al o mut ap-
proved of In thickness and warmth it rivals the closest
wootn fabrics while possessing he usre and softnsss
OF sill and therefore hanging ia the most graceful
around the person Leopold and Marion presented coiures
of entirely novel desc1 ption b. ing exceedingly elevated
on The forehead and a ng quite low In the neck behind
by the ladies Of the Boua under the Drectoie
This coifuIe, which is exceedingly becoming to youthful
conferences caves the side Of he face completely
postd the jewellers ecompt< aud Fossn) presented
the aigust,es Ia Mouren Of cciored stones to
tya efficiency very try to from which the 6rst
bloom of youth has oepal These ornaments are ex
quisite beautiful and stand out from the hair falling
me carr in tiny sparkling shower # most charm
ing ard novel t Ct The cnatieres dis paved many
dn de robes amongst which every style OF Spanish
Origin emed to secure the favor The short jacket
la Me sal To be the invention Of exalted lady
sn promises TO become the rage 1t consists Of short
cody OF caIk colored velvet, reaching not than
half way to the waist The sleeves long
and tight with epsulette composed of jet or
fringe This is open in front and exhibits the
hooy OF the dress beneath which made perfectly tight
to the figure and ernamenled the bosom with bou
lori OF tue For light elegant figure this cor
sage is most advantageous, as 1t dimnishes the size Of
skirt of the with this body covered to the
waist with Hou1ces py,amide OF lace gauze en-
brodered in ao s The whole costume thus briggs
mind the light fantastic dress of the Andau Ian Maa,
while it the subdued taste of the high which
distinguishes the coutureres Of Paris In coiures the
gurla de chassesse of Madame Jeanne shone conspcu
GUS II is composed of bghtcolored bst ped flowers
covered with be tram parent foliage made BY Bataard
with softeued lustre snd throwing their reflection
entirely Cd the coun'erance. Long ribbons fall
over the shoulders and render the coure light aud
graceful. Gseame Couons cha peau a la grand du-
cheese gained uch spplause. IL is formed of
mixture Of velvet and tulr. The forms very low
in tie neck and ossed by baods of velvet be-
thus leaving the hair beneath parts lily exposed to
view This fashion was greatly criticised at frs, but
can be SAID in It's oispsag Combs made fl to
seem thiou the crosns OF these transpar b,nnsts
already behe]d in the jewellers shops They of
carved ivory, her Of pearl, and jet The Princess
Ma hioe, at Compiegpe, wore one of those bonnets
Of white ocnd., the bands being of white chip, and
the sides ornaIoented with fun punches of arabouts
Beneath the tuls OF the crown the rich dark
lair gathered in knot Ia Msd,cis anc fastened bv
q broad brilliant comb. which flashed N the with
marvellous effect. The magnificent sets OF parurea
heurt ace BY Cons ann for tbs Imperial ladies Of Rus
ss which had on ~ his hosl in tho Rue d. An
n of hA cuif
fures In color material and oru subject Of much
comment. They entirely the work of Constantine
himself End the material presents the appearance Of
panied blonde. Tbs peculiar green of the leaves and
flowers Of the pollard eak OF which of the parures
posed hss been thought hitherto upata nabls
topstantn has however. found to apply it. and
the effect Il most successful A wreath Of crysanths
NUNS Of the rev color, jaime Rodoiphe, was handed
round amidst The lamAtons Of wonder and admira-
ton OF the whole assembly II is intended for the rin
O!gs, and is of the form called by surs gurands
nsuyslle, single line OF flowers the forehead,
creasng to tbiee four in depth it advances
wares the ears Altogether this reunion dee arts de luxe
personnel for the winter considered highly satisfactory
n one to he r. membered with pleasure.
The featber trimmings, invented by the EMPRESS have
feeb much worn ourisg the month. The one fault of
II " being easily crushed and damaged s obv.fed by
Ssdsm hrdaut by mixing the feathers with Jet which
ttiIers the material and adds to briiliancy.
most elegant lit tie bssquine. borderet with this trim
ing made by Madame Briaut for the Of
Maciis Sbaur open TO the waist and joined together
in the neck t htly tchance behind the timmiog form
irg ruff round the throat. end producing the most
charming and bewitching eiiec' that possbls be
megir d. scme few o. bcdest tonnes have vsntured
upon ths robe la Smyrnote for morning "
ssts Of dressing gosn Of white cashmere, richly
br iderej in Oriental pattern gold and colored silk
Til, ptigpor IL made light without any AmpIear ia the
slrt aud open at the sides to give the figure
cord with ,assels Of twisted silk and gold encrcles the
waist precisely in the style by the handles
Of the day. The dress is cpea IA 'front.' and displays
chez .tte Of embroidered muslin composed of straight
LIE bordering each side OF the entredeux. A mar
row scarf of bright colors. and made expressly for
the costure Ia tied round the throat the two ends left
t. float across the bosom On the head is worn little
iez o. velvet ehroder cd In gold with long gold tssse
reaching to the shoulder. Altogether this costume,
opted fr ieside is not without it, chsr, AMI
loses much VI il imitation OF masculine lasser aler
whtn bcin porte. We have OF shse robes Smy
tes ef dark tue cashmere embroidered in gold AMI lined
win grcfGe ceored satln which destined for the
Of Aadie 20 santa Cfoce which had cost the
sum OF fifteen hundred francs The rage for
PEI ecor in emoruidery is, at the esent mon-nt
III to such az immense extent thai OF prin
opal nerchancs de nouyeatcs have given large orders TO
some OF the Greek houses OF the Lsvant for the Id
enc silver TRAININGS nlads IN the ntghboIhood of
Damascus, and Which bear such high price At
CarstSbtircpe. Ball dresses exclusively trim
med with rows az msrabout caef This trim
ming being forbidden to young unmarried lslies,
tie Tourists have kindly come TO their rescue
By the Invention Ct tie chef Ia Josephine con-
sitting Of manufacture II listed silk which presents
81 tie ligLtpess of the naraoout with fro
md b Infancy. Gloves have teen much OF the
or OF tie d. ess; bur this fashion which has been often
tried before without success do not think destined
=
ced IT the lido with GOLD cord, Terminated by hanging
tas els Thess latter are worn with manches Ia mous
quetSire AID called Ia Jeanne d'Albret.
Or general obse vstiops :: All dark c,lcrs in dress
seem dti tired ior tae next winter to be mixed WITH
those Of bright anc ahowy nuancs. Ihas black and
scars sarA bne and orange and amber, either in
stripe check the mixtures which psrvads stafs of
every manufacture. The Dirt S. Ia BJzao,ine, with
sre e tounce gathered in at the waist and eaching
uit above he lem of the skirt has entirely ed
every other description OF skirt whether Aosnces tacss
for street costume. There has been vague attempt ns
resi- n a cauagp md
which has ph morcntsry success. Some Of these
ia black velvet almost entirely covered with jet
brodery intsrnixfd with lsco: but attempt
.rtirel revive fai hon OF such date that Of
ca Macane Jeanne has imposed her "a hion OF
tgrc itons everything; and it is led 70
apglstsd and absurd extent IN every Kind Of trimming
fJt caps ami bcaItts Even flowers and fancy
have Leen made correspond with this fsshi Bach
ings Of tge ribbon nsve been placed in two and three
around the edge Of IeghoIn bonnets while broad
f,uchop Of tige sila falls the Jet has
scm.d s sway, after hayirg been abandoned fer
little time Is advantages Lace and passeD,eoeris
! perceived, for while every other kind of trim los
i's freshness by exposure 10 the and dust jet main