New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1853-01-01
BAYARD TAYLOR'S LETTERS
l\VIII.
JOURNEY IN A SPANISH DILIGENCE


Editonsi Csrre,pond.nes Of The ST rrbuHs
GRANADA, Spain Wv. IA. 1852.
Ii is an enviabe sensation, 10 feel tor the hrSt
time that YOU are in Granada. No amount oil
travelling can weaken the romank interest
which clings about this stored place, or take
away ancht from the freshness Of that emotion
with which you first behold it. | sit almost az
the foot OF the Alhambra, whose walls | can see
from INV window quite satisfied for to-day with
being here 1t has been raining since arrived,
the thunder is crashing overhead, and the noun
tains are covered with clouds, so | am kept in
doors. with the luxury of knowing that all the
wonders of the place are within my reach And
now let me begIile the dull weather by giyingyou
sketch of my journey from Seville hther
There are three lines of stages from Seville
10 Madrid, and their competition has reduced
the fare to Sl2, which for ride OF $50 miles, is
remarkably cheap. The trip is usually made in
three DAYS and half A branch line from Bay
len-nearly halfway-strikes southwark TO Gram
ada, and as there is no competition on this part
of the road, | Was charged Slo for through
seat in the eOnpf On account OF the iat'neis
of the season, and the limited time at my com.
,nand, this was preferable to taxing horses and
riding across the country from Seville TO Cor
dova Accordingly, at an early hour on Thurs
day morning last, furnished with travelling
ticket inscribed " Don Valtar de Tailor (my
self y, | took leave OF ny English friends ut the
Fonda de Madrid, got into an immense, lumber
ing yellow vehicle, drawnby ten mules, and start
ed, trusting To nv good luck and bad Spanish 10
get safely through. The commencement now
ever. was unpropitous, and very often a stumble
,t starting makes the whole Journey lump. The
{" near" mule in the foremost span was horse,
-. nd
vent that horse from darling into all sorts OF
streets and ALLEYS where we had NJ desire 10 20.
As all mules have implicit faith in horses, Of
course the rest of the animals followed. We
were haitian hour getting out OF Seville, audwhen
AT last we reached the open road and dashed OF
At full gallop one of the mules in the traces fell
and was dragged in the dust some twenty or
thirty Yards before we could stop. Ny conpAn-
ions in the coupe were young Spanish officer
and his pretty Anlalusan bride, VINO was max
ing her first Journey from home, and alter these
mishaps was in d state OF constant fear and anA-
iety.
The first stage across the valley Of tae Qua
dalouiyir took us TO to the sown Alcala, whl:l
lies in the lap OF the hills above the beautiful
litrle river Guadairs IL is picturesque spot ;
tbenaked cliffs oyerhanging the stream have the
rich red hue of cnnabar, and tae trees AMI
shruhoery N the meadows on and the hill sides
are ready grouped To the artists hand. The
town ia r,,led Alcala de los panadores (Oi tha
B.kess tcm it's hundreds Of Ilolr mills AM
babe-3-ens, which supply Seville with those
white, fire delicious twists, Of which SPAN mag
be hsst!, proud. They should have been sent
TO the Exhibition last year, with the IOlelC
blades and the wooden mOsaics. We lett tnt
place and its mealy- headed population an
tnrned eastward into wide, rolling tracts, scat
tered here and there with gnarled olive trees
The sui was loose and sandy, AID hedges OF aloe.
lined the road. The country Is thinly populated
and very little of il under cultivation
About noon we reached Carmona, which wa
founded by the Romans, as, indeed, were nearl!
all the towns of Southern Spain. IL occuplei
the crest and northern slope OF high MI
whereop the ancient Moorish castle still stands
The Alcazar. or palace, and the Moorish Wai
also remain. though in very ruinous CONDITION
Here We stopped 10 dinner, Tor the " hae''
peuinsnlar" in which was embarked, mas III
hotels all along the route, like thar OF Luru
tug. IN Ne,ic0 We were conducted INTO
small room adjoining the stables and aaorhel
Nth colored prints illustrating the histo,'
- Nm JJohn of Austria. TIE taOie-eioen
Yi.te. ard other appendages were OF yer! oEl'-
Ia p,v quality. but indisputably clean; We seateS
snrselyes and presently the dinner apPeaLet
lust vsimitelli plat, which found Pila'
liz tb.n the national ola, 3 DISH Of ehof'i'ON
NJ. meas sprinkled with bits OF bacon az
is~oraj with oil; then three successive coui' =
Of chicken boiled, stewed and roasted, oa; u
- case done TO rags and without P-i'ie,1l
of the original flavor. Tins was sn -.
e S If our %s' .u pr escep, tina, lid wa
last uinlei u, r;tated for fowl and that she
oil employed, being more ., less 'r CONS, s' q
dineleh1 rr nnU or pomegrsnates wound up tie
repsst the price d ~5eh varied S% zen te
we've realsIs real being about a haltsIme
IN seyiIle, at the Fonda de Madrid, the coOkin'
!. rssIIy excellent, but further IN the interior