The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1853-11-09
The WORLD OF FASHION.
INTERESTING TO THE LADIES
The Revolutions in Dress Among the French,
English and Americans.
ExTRAvAGANCe OF THE NEW YORK ARSTOcRACy
&C.. &C., 10.

commencement Of the spring ami seasons the first
class millinery and dressmaking establishments in the
city are crowded with ladies' and the greatest excitement
prsvas in circles Broadway and the Fifth
avenue are the great prowenades in which the new
fsAns are displayed and Mt the beginning Of each
son they arc thronged with ladies' dressed in the latest
and most costly styles None who make any pretensions
70 fashion will be found in either of these horoughfaes
thsy cannot appear in the latest style, and they
slider it of their greatest Affections to be deprived
last by thor extravaganza Of the power of doing
Az drss rules half the world it is but right that
should give it that attention which its importance claims
and which shall hereaf er devote to it.
We have already our readers are aware chroniced
the changes of the they have taken place. and
introduced readers TO the revolutions in the world of
fashion in New York at the beginning Of every spring and
fall. We give = review of the history Of fashion,
showing the origin of many of most important art
ces OF dress and the changes which al different times
take place in this particular
Few thinys have been subject to mattions than
d,sss-not Mexico not the inconstant moon denounc-
cd By juliet changing with the climate the Weather, the
station of its voares their joys their grief their
their position the glose and their degree in the scale
of civilization Fashion is the realization of the old
Greek myth-the Proeus Of the modern world hidden in
fur and skins ut the Poles garing through the
transparent tissues at the Tropics An authentic record
u
manual Of civilization, each material adding novelty to
its varied stores and each mechanical cheapsn
ing ana dusing them. Is not dress nationally charsc
tsristics The flowing robe and yellow shppered feet
bespsak ndolsnt Turk the plaid and kilt the hardy
Highlander Compare the dress By the inhabitants
OF Eastern harsm with that Of the Greek and Roman
adeas. Is not the auring beauty of the and the
grave simplicity Of the other characteristics Does not
the unchapgng Spanish mantiA somewhat of the
conservatism of the country ?and do not the multitude
changes in French fashions indicate the ressssnsss
AID inventive genius Of the people
While come affect an utter contempt for dress
worthy their notice, forgetting
That trihers not in tribes can excsln
legislators have considered it worthy their special
attention, and enactments the subject have been
made in every country removed from barbarism. His
tory records but instance of q family left free to
follow the dictates Of individual taste with regard
dres independent Of legal resraiDtthe descendant of
the renowned Geusese Admiral Andrea Dora-a privilege
sosnny granted BY the senate Of his native city in return
for his eminent services The most unpopular laws
enacted related to dress and the OF wearing
the hair AID they have been enforced the arbitrary
manner. The Turks win not allow the Grecian women
TO sughsn their skirts they please they appoint Off
cia whose duty is to observe any ngement of the
law, and to punish by cutting the offending jupe,
pstticoat de- the prescribed legal length Peter tho
Great took measures equally prompt and efectual to
shave his bearded subjects and Elizabeth Of England to
limit the sze of the ruff by her courtie. Great
has been the mania Of rulers for egsatng this sub
isct and bitter has been the feelings evoked Even the
Chinese quiet to . fault resisted their Tartar con-
auerors when they nterfered With their natural right of
wearing uxuriant hair and last century the people
Madrid took up to preserve their beloved cloak
and sombrero, menaced by prime minister; and Sultan
Mahmcud who substituted the Fee cap for the turbao
foand it more suit reconcile his subjects to that
than to more important reforms
On every page of history have instances Of the i'm
p0rtance attached to the cut Of mans clothes Con-
qneros DESTROYS of forcing their language and
dress upon the conquered their religion and laws
Thus the Engish made it criminal for the Irish to
the mantle the coolin Qong flowing locks) and the
Russian authorities fine and imprison the natives of
Poland for wearing their national costume.
How inseparably connected in the mind historic
events with peculiar styles of dress. The English Com
monweaith and the steepe crowned hat usspara
BILE the French Revolution and the bonnet rouge.
q argers and coats Of NAH mark the chivaic ages and
breeches and hats tell Of Washington
and the Revolution
ENGLISH FASHIONS.
Ths Norman conquest effected a complete revolution in
the dress well the laws and language of the Eng
sh people, the short coaks and flowing of the
their Norman masters. Long hair became fashionable
again under the Of the Conqueror censured
saeninate by early chroniceJ William of Malmesbury
The Of the English ladies' at this time
sxhavagsntly long, trailing the ground their
sleeves and ve but to prevent annoyance they tied
in bows Then the sleeve with hanging cuffs and in
the thirteenth century the tight plain sleeve such
have present ct the time a2peared the
startling novelty Of cloak with sleeves and hood Dear
ought that thirteenth century be to women for then
6st came,
New, - il brought from other fpherea
Yet welcome ~ II loved for years"
the costly regal velvet and fitting sppsndage trains
and with 1t came tight scipg and small waists. In the
reign Of Henry VIII bonnets and hats worm and
thsn was seen the nomination it called of 'arms
bare down from the elbowsn This ndelcacy" excited
such storm Of Indignation that the gave way be-
fore it, bat Mcawbsrh like, only for spring. for in less
than century and shoulders bare excited
ssta conclusive proof that there Tartue at the
court Of Charles l. However, to keep up the system of
compensation that prevails throughout nature, if they
uncovered their shoulders they powdered their hair
Solomon has aid that there is nothing under the
sum- and each day proves the rsth Of the saying The
strong madsd Of the present day, whe wish to
assmmats the dress of the sexes must yield the palm
OF originality those who 8ourhed at the Court Of the
Merry Monarch In justice 20 the Boomers however,
must say they only agreed n the principle of the
thing the style altogether different These proo
Bioonsrs began the work of reformation at the head
they wore psrwgs, hats and coats buttoned up the
breast Pepys says, "just for all the world like
mine " but less bold radical than their American
imtators, they loft the pettcoat intact for the
writer adds, but for that nobody could take them for
women" This ungraceful style prevailed during four
rsighs spite Of all opposition and inmortalzed in
the polished playful satire Of Addison, from whom
learn that the hat made sprghty by the add
uon OF feather.
Irregular ~ rolling watern one extavagance SUI,
csedsd to another and the next sprngtide Of fashion
brought the Spanish farthngae metamorphosed into
hoop which, imposing in decay died out in creno
kpa and grass skirts, few years ago. No fashion can
Vie with this In duration extent it exis
tssss By centuries and its extent by nsonalities 1t
Issued on SPAIN and spread Portugal France Eng
lad arnany and pArts Of Italy and survived for many