The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1853-02-17
VOL. VII.
For the National Era.
looPYRIeHT SECURED ACCORDING TO LAwl
GREENWOOD LEAVES FROM OVER THE Sc.


My DEAR NJ. c.. The Christmas and New
Years holydays in Rome have been sometime
TO be long and pleasantly remembered by me
not alone for their novel and splendid ceremo.
MES, but for the delicious weather we have
had through ail-sunlight as brilliant as thar
of summer, moonlight absolutely entrancinc
loneliness and soft airs everywhere. Every
day, as it dawned crowned with celestia, plo-
~, and garnished with beauty nexpres,ible
seemed fit for the birthday Of God.
On Christmas Eve we witnessed some grand
ceremonies at the Church of Santa Maria
Maggiore. This is one of the most magnificent
of the basilicas, and the first view of its lin.
minated interior almost struck one back with
the blaze Of its inconceivable splendor. Wa
could see nothing for q moment but the innu.
merable lights, the silver and gold and Grim.
son, the floating clouds of incense, and vast
indistinguishable crowd OF people, soldiers, and
priests But presently we perceived that pro-
cession was slowly moving round the church
II was the Pope, borne aloft in his chair of
state arrayed in his pontifcal robes of white
and gold, with two immense fans Of white
plumes nodding stately one on either side of
his head. He sat little unsteadiIy, and look.
ed, thought, rather nervous at his elevation
but he never ceased to scatter, devoutly and
benignantly, his blessing, right and left, upon
the crowd, most of whom knelt to receive the
invisible baptism.
Nothing can be finer than the sudden kneel
ing of the Swiss Guard and the Guardia No
bileJ they always 90 down with such gallant
tossing of plumes and such ringing clang of
swords and halberds, as though challenging
the world for their proud, magnificent old.
warlike faith. There is more in that sound
than the clang of steel against marble some
thing heroic, chivalrous Crusader-like-some-
thing quite indescribabie, but which makes
the heart beat bravely and thrills one from
head to foot
After listening to the music and witnessing
some incomprehensble rites for about half an
hour. we went to a side chapel to see the ia
nous and most holy relic of the true cradle.
At the entrance, before we were aware we
found ourselves in an absolutely fcrocious
crowd Such fierce pushing and elbowing,
such desperate assaults and ignominiOus re-
pulses, | never before witnessed Torn away
from my companions, at one time gave nv
self up for lost believing that | must render
my last sigh in melee of devout Catho-
lies and sightseeing heretcs the victim alike
of fanatic superstition and frantic curiosity
soldier of the Swiss guard was stationed at
the door, and allowed but one or two to pass
at time. | must admit that this stern and
dreadful man-atarms was no scryile respecter
of persons, but treated all hapless cradle-seek-
ers with the same iphexible brutality He even
seized upon an enterprising young priest, in full
robes thrust his reverence back, shook him till
his scull-cap fell of, and the holy man was pur-
pie with unsanctifed ire would give some
thing to know what penance was imposed for
this sacrilegious attack, this rude laying on OF
unconsecrated hands. AT last, hen quite in de-
spair, we were admitted, by order Of an officer
who happened to know one of our party, passed
the bloody Swiss dragon in safety and soon
found ourselves standing before what we were
told were the miraculously preserved remnf 8
Of the cradle in which Mary once rocked the
infant Christ. In an immense case a sort Of
casket of gold and glass, are kept these won
derful relics-two or three pieces of old wood,
worm-eaten, and partly decayed. There is
nothing in their form to indicate that they
were ever parts of anything like cradle, and
so altogether rough and clumsy are they, that
found more natural than irreverent the re-
mark of jocose Englishman who stood near
US" Well, all have to say liz, st Joseph
seems to have been but a bad carpenter"
Yet saw women clasptheir hands, and burst
into tears at the sight Of these formless pieces
Of wood and brutal soldiers fall on their
knees, with their hard faces softened with
something like reverence and devotion, and
with their stupid eyes glistening with ray of
something like soul.
We afterwards saw the procession of the
Cradle-these relies borne in their golden case,
under q gorgeous canopy, to the high altar,
followed by the Pope and cardinals, with much
chanting of monks and faring of tapers. We
went from this scene of pomp and puerility,
of priestly parade and theatrical show, to the
Coliseum, which seemed by contrast more I'M
approachably grand, more awful in its immen-
sitv, more solemn in age and ruin, than ever
before
As we wandered about its vast arena, we
thought the night far lighter and lovelier here
than elsewhere; the brightest stars seemed
clustered above it-you almost felt that all
was darkness without, such wondrous starry
radiance was imprisoned there, so brimming
was it with glorious moonlight
Alter leaving the Coliseum, we attended
midnight mass in one Of the churches on the
Corso, where, at one time, we heard music so
worldly and waltz-like in character, that for
moment half believed it to be one Of the
ceremonies to dance the old dispensation out
and the new one in-almost exTected TO sec
some OF the devout choosing partners, and
whirling about among the pillars assure
you, the effect OF such music in such place
was strange and unsolemnizing beyond descrip-
ton. Some OF our party were enterprising
enough to make a night of it," by attending
three o'clock macs at ST. Peters But a. for
| me, though the spirit was willing the flesh,
after all the fatigues Of the day and night was
1a1l In \ -,
into my bed, and forget in earthly slumber and
most human dreams, churches and chanting
cowled friars and lace-robed priests red
gowned cardinals and even the good old-wo-
manly Pope himself By the way speaking Of
his Holiness never see him without feeling
the utter absurdity of his standing in the place
of ST. Peter-the pous good nature, the easy,
lndolent benevolence, the sort Of lax benignlty
of his face, are so little in character with the
boldness, the fire, the hastiness and emporte-
rnent OF that noble, yet somewhat too impul-
sive disciple But when think Of the gener
Gus promises made to Freedom q few years
ago, and see how they have been kept ] am
reminded OF that one unfortunate period IN
the life of the great Papal prototype, when
courage and truth and honor failed him, and
he denied his Divine Master in the hour OF His
extremity.
This one abandoned, if he did not deny, the
great truth Of Human Freedom, in which
Christ now lives, in its hour Of utmost need
and if all could be known, believe we should
find that, like the other he has not ceased to
weep and repent since the Gallo cock crowet
over his weakness and dishonor.
On Christmas morning We attended high
mass at ST. Peters, scene and ceremony
,.,b. oI AZ 40
crowd my mind with pictures and colors OF IN
describable splendor The sight commenced al
the entrance of the grand coonnades in front
of the church. where the beautiful fountains
playing in the rich sunshine Of perfect day
the magnificent equipages of the cardinals, ON,
GERS of state, and foreign ministers--sodiers ana
r,ards &, brilliant nnif rms and the mighty