, 1853-06-25

similar to those Of the other trileS before
spoken Of
On the oath, they were glad to leave
Gray's Harbor, after having, by grra. per-
severance and with much fatigue, compet-
Cd the survey. Mr.. Ed now took up the
remaining portion Of the work he was or
dered to perform, namely, to trace the coast
TO Cape disappointment. The Indians
whom he hired to take the canoe around 10y
water, preferred TO pass close along the
beach, inside the.surf, 10y tacking the canoe
notwiihst ,nding there was very heavy surf,
they managed to PASS along very quickly.
This is the mode they always adopt in jour
ncylnC along the coast with then canoes, to
avoid accident from the heavy surf, Of which
they have much dread The evening oil the
day on which they left Gray's IIarbor, they
reached small inlet, distant fifteen miles
from Cape Shoalwater, where they found
the lodge of the Chckeelrs chief before
spoken Of, who supplied them with dried
salmon, &c
The coast between Gray's Ealb Dor and
Cape Shoalwatcr is b5rdercd by sand hills,
bchnG which, from the indians account,
there are lakes and streams Of fresh water,
in which plenty of beaver are found.
From this chief they hired another canoe,
and accompanied by him they proceeded
through Shoalwater Bay towards Cape Dis
appointment. The two canoes separated,
which caused them to pass over two portagcs
between Shoalwater and Bakers Bay that
to the east is about four and half miles in
length, while lhatto the west is six or seven
miles across. The former is usually pre-
ferred by the Indians, and is one of the
main passes Of communication between the
different tribes on the sea coast. The woods
through which they passed were of spruce
trees, some of which were Of large dImen-
sions the lesser plants were principally
Vaccinium, Lcdums, and some candleLerry
bushes (Myrica).
On the 9th they reached the Flying
Fish, then in Bakers Bay, and were taken
over to Astoria.
MIR. ED received, on his arrival at Asio-
ria, my orders 10 repair with his party to
Vancouver where, being furnished by Mr.
Birnie with large nat-bottomed barge, lie
set out to JON me at that place, which he
reached on the 31st Of August.
The surveying parties having returned,
on the l4th we took leave of Vancouver
After proceeding down to the mouth Of the
we anchored, for the purpose of
Flushing the Soundings and making an ex-
animation Of the channels into which the
river is here divided by few islands.
This work being completed, We dropped
down several miles, to overtake the sounding
parties Here We were good deal annoyed
from the burning Of the prairies by the In
dians, which filled the atmosphere with a
dense smoke, and gave the sun the appear
ance of being viewed through a smoked
glass. We were fortunately, in great de-
gree, Independent Of it, as it was not neces-
sary to see more than a short distance 10
discover the signals for the soundings. 1t
however prevented me from verifying my
astronomical stations, which ] was desirous
Of doing
Acting-Mose Sinclair, who had been
despatched to Vancouver for some aticles
belonging 10 the Oregon. that had been left
there, Joined US below Warriors Point, on
the 18th, with letters and news that had
been brought f.om the United States by au
overland party These letters were very
acc ptablc,a as we had not received any adviccs
from home for twenty two months, and tend T.
cd to revive our spirits, as well as cncour-
age our exertons. On the 2Cth, we an
chored again off Coffin Rock, near which
we found a depth of twenty-five lalhoms,
which is the deepest water within the capas.
This place is sixty miles from the mouth of
the river, and eight miles above the Con-
huence of the Cowlitz. The shores here are
composed Of trap and a conglomerate, the
last of which is the same rock as that which
occurs below, and has already been spoken
Of The Coffin Rock, which is not more
than sixty feet in diameter, and twelve feet
aoove the water, appears TO have been ex-
clusively reserved for the burial Of chiefs.
DR.. Holmes procured here some fine speci-
mems of Flathesd skulls for our collection.
We anchored the same evening off the Cow
litz.
Early the next morning, proceeded up
the Cowlitz IN my gig, in order to finish the
survey of that stream and examine the strata
of coal said 10 exist there. After entering
it, it was with difficulty that | recognised
the river for there is a greater difference
than even in the Columbia, between its high
and low states. Alter passing up the Cow
lilz several miles, encountered rapids,
through which it was necessary to drag The
boat by line. found, after great exer-
tion and fatigue, We could moi ascend be-
yODd thirteen miles; for it had become so
shallow that the boat could not float, and
we had not strength erongh to force her
over the wide bars Of gravel and sand, that
had apparently accumulated during the last
spring. Ailsr securing some specimens OF
Ii Lnile that were found embedded in the al
luval banks, and taking observations for
tim, turned back and anxious to reach