Washington sentinel. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1853-1855, 1853-11-23
Masbington Sentinsl.
Correspondence of the N. Y. Observer.
Iren@us Letters from Switzerland.

Correspondence OF the ~. I. Opserfer. -.
Ireneus Letters from Switzerland.
Not in the best of spirits, nor in as good
condition as a pedestrian would wish, | set off
the next morning with my young friends. We
would have felt better but for foolish resolu-
ton to carry our own knapsacks and overcoats,
and to make one days journey without guide
or mule. Success is apt to make one proud; |;
and we had improved so much in our walking,
with each days experience, that we actually.
began to think we could do anything in that
line. The storm Of the night before had gone
by, and clear cool day encouraged us. Alas,
ciers, and in sight of dazzling snow-drifts, the
hot sun would thaw our resolution, and COM
pell us to call Justify for help, when no Hercu-
les would be at hand to lend us aid.
Not wilder or more.romantic path had we
found than the one which led us ont of the
vale Of the Grimsel. Kindly as we had been
treated for two nights, and disposed as every
man must be to think well of place that has
given him shelter in wilderness, was not
sorry to put mountain between me and the
hospice. Yet there was in truth no mountain
to cross. Nature had opened path. This
river Aar, that we saw yesterday just issuing
from the base of the glacier, and gliding along
in milky way, is to be our guide, and it finds
a passage through the mountains, by which we
are to GO to Meyringen. 1t is not yet two
miles from its source, and already it is leaping
from ledge to ledge in its rapid descent; no
longer flowing, but falling headlong; dashing
now against rocks and foaming around them
and onward, as if maddened by every obstacle
and brooking no delay.
Water in motion is always beautiful. And
if so, we have this beauty in variety every mo-
ment, as we travel through these mountain
Businesses. Here on our right hand a stream
let is falling from the giddy height Of a thous-
and feet above us. At first it slips along on
the edge of the rocks, as if afraid to fall, and
then with graceful bound it clears the side of
the mountain, and comes down to q lower level,
when it reposes for moment in basin made
without hands, and again it flows along down
like a long white robe suspended on the hill
side, tastefully winding itself as in folds.
The Aar has been thus far following us down
in two branches, but these unite and make a
powerful torrent, that roars necessarily along
our path. In full view, but far above u.s. the
snow lies fresh and white, for much OF it fell
there yesterday: and among the clouds, as they
roll open and let us see their beds, the blue
glacier lies. Some Of the views along here are
exceedingly grand, and in the midst Of barren
ness that can hardly be exceeded, the soul feels
that enough is here to make world, though
there is little vegetation, and not human habi-
tion. We frequently cross the torrent by mar.
row bridges and pause on each OF them, to
watch the angry waters whirling underneath.
was arrested on one Of them by the sight Of a
reservoir followed out of q solid rock by the
water it would hold twenty barrels, and was
full The torrent was now raving a few inches
below, while the water within was as placid in
| the sunshine as if it had never moved. The
| contrast was beautiful. Let the mad world
rush by, noisy, turbulent, and thoughtless; il
is better to be calm and trusting; certainly it
is better if our rest is on a rock which cannot
be moved.
The pass is very narrow here, the mountains
rise suddenly from the edge of the torrent, and
there is barely room in some places for the path
and the stream. There is great danger, too,
in travelling here in the winter, when the ava
lanches come rushing down the precipitous
sides of these mountains. Their work of de-
struction is lying all around us. They sweep
across the path, and for long distance have
laid the rock perfectly bare, and polished it so
smoothly that there is constant danger of slid
ing off into the gulf by the side of the way.
Grooves have been cut in the rock, that the
feet of the mules may have some support; but
a prudent traveller will trust 10 his own feet
and his staff, and tread cautiously. We be-
come so accustomed to these dangerous places,
that we pass them without emotion; but there
is never season without its fatal accident to
travellers, and none but foolhardy persons will
needlessly expose their lives. An English fam
ily returned home few days ago, having left
the mangled corpse of their son, a lad OF
twelve years, in some frightful gorge into
- II ell III 10 IN 10 IN
the midst of the Alps. We frequently hear of
painful facts like these, yet there is not pass
in Switzerland which may not be safely made
with prudence and GOODNESS.
One of the finest cascades we had yet seen
was on our right, after we had made about i've
miles from the hospice. Its width OF stream,
volume of water, and great height, entitle 1t to
a name and record which it has not f; and this
has frequently appeared to me strange in this
Journey, that falls in Switzerland, of compare
tively little beauty, have been painted and
praised the world over, while others of more
romantic and impressive features have no place
in the hand-books, but are strictly anonymous.
The one we are now speaking Of, attracted our
attention as decidedly more interesting than
any we had seen among the mountains and in
this opinion presume others will agree. Its
misfortune is that it is within o mile of the
Handek, which we are now approaching. A
rude log hut received us, and we found refresh
ments such as might be expected in wilder
ness like this Sour bread and sour wine, with
strong cheese, and a strange looking pie, COM
posed Of materials into which it was not pru-
dent to inquire, gave us a lunch that might
have been worse. We were glad TO get it, but
even more pleased to find place where we
could lay down our burdens, under which we,
or perhaps should say l, had been groaning
for an hour. This pedestrianism in the Alps
is very pretty thing to talk about in the par.
lor, but it is not the most agreeable mode OF
travelling to one who is accustomed only to a
sedentary life. We could find no mules here,
however, but meeting a sturdy fellow who was
going up the pass, and who was guide, but
not Just now engaged, we made bargain with
him to turn about and carry our traps to Mey.
ringen. He was on his way over the Grimsel
into Canton Wallis, to buy eggs and butter,
| which he and his son, who was with him, would
bring back to sell in the lower valleys
This is the way in which the traffic among