, 1853-05-28

TOT lhelr only brldc is a single cord fastened
to the lower jaw with this they contrive
to govern the most refractory animals, with
out the aid of whip or spur, and will urge
to speed an animal that has become all but
liteless under our guidance. They practice
great cruelty to their horses, and pay no re-
gard whatever TO the state of their backs.
In travelling in this country, all scruples
and feelings in respect to sore backs, laded,
amcd, or half-starved horses, must be laid
aside: and my advice is, keep away from
your horses until they are saddled, and leave
this 10 your guides who own them.
The direction of our route was nearly
south over the plain, passing occasionally
pretty lawn, and groves of oak and ash
trees. AT the distance Of nine miles we
reached the river Nisqually, whose channel
is sunk three hundred feet below the plain,
between almost perpendicular banks. The
ravinc is about half mile wide, and is filled
with large growth of timber, which is
occasionally uprooted by the torrents that
pass down, on the melting of the SHOWS of
the mountains. The usual bed Of the riv-
er is about one hundred yards wide, with
rapid current its course in this place was
north-northwcst, and IFS average depth at
the ford about three feet. We again ascend
ed similar bank on the opposite side TO the
plain. Our route then continued through
most beautiful park scenery, with the prai-
rie now and then opening to view, in which
many magnificent pines grew detached
The prairie was covered with a proluson
Of flowers.
After crossing Shute's river. similar in
all respects to the Nisqually, we encamped
just before night, having travelled about
twenty-five miles.
Being somewhat fatigued, we all slept
soundly. The guide and Indians, according
to the custom of the country, after rolling
themselves in their blankets, lay down near
the fire (which continued 10 burn brightly
all night without any shelter In the
morning we found BY the tracks that elk
and deer had been near us, probably at
tracted by the FIRE. Our horses having been
hobblrd, were easily procured !: they had
not strayed, as the grass around the tents
was Of the most nutritious kind.
In the morning, when we resumed our
journey, the pax scenery increased in beau
ly, and it was almost impossible 10 realize
that we were in a savage and wild country !,
and that nature, not art, had perfected ihel
landscape. Beautiful lakes, with green
sward growing to the water edge, with deer
feeding feaIlcssly on their margin, and eve
ry tint of flower, many Of which were not
new 10 our gardens at home, strewn in pro-
fusion around we could hardly in gallop-
ing along, but expect TO see some beautiful
mansion, as a fit accompaniment to such
scenery.
We soon reached the Butte Prairies, which
are extensive, and covered with umuli or
small mounds, ai regular distances asunder.
As far as | could learn, thero is no tradition
among the natives relative 10 them They
are conical mounds, thirty feet in diameter,
about six TO seven feet high above the level
and many thousands in number Being
anxious TO ascertain if they contained any
relics, subsequently, visited these prairies,
and opened three of the mounds, but moth
ing was found in them but a pavement Of
round stones.
After a ride of twelve miles, we reached
Chickeeles river, which empties itself into
Gray's Harbor, about forty miles north Of
the Columbia. We found the stream about
two hundred yards wide in this place, and
running in a southwest direction. On its
banks there were few lodges, containing
about twenty Indians of the NisqualIy tribe,
who had come here 10 make preparations
for the salmon fishery, then about 10 COM
mence, (20th May.) They were mise
rable looking sci, barely covered with pieces
Of dirty blankets and skins.
We stopped here for two hours, to rest
our horses. Hanging around their lodges
were hundreds of lamprey eels, from foot
to eighteen inches long, and about an inch
in diameter. We we're told that these fish
are caught in great quantities, and dried for
food they are also used for candles or torch.
es Tor, being very full Of oil, they burn
brightly.
These Indians had quantity of The cam
mass-root which they had stored in baskets.
1t is kind OF sweet squills, and about the
size of small onion. II is extremely
abundant on the open prairies, and pariicu-
larly on those which are overflOwcd by the
small streams.
After leaving these lodges, few yards
beyond, the soil changed from gravel TO a
rich unctuous clay. We crossed branch
of the Chickeeles, and passed over some
high hills, which we found exceedingly diff
cult to accomplish, being in places quite
miry, in which our pack-horses unfrequent-
ly We're stuck fast few roads in any coun-
try could be worse.
The woods and undcrbrush now became
so thick that it was with difficulty that a
horse and his rider could pass for, whilst
the former was extricalng his legs from the
mud holes, the latter required all his alten-
ton and exeriions 10 prevent himself from
being stranglcd or dragged from his horse
by the branches. This was not all fallen