The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1853-11-17
For the National Era
BFIL SMITH ABR0AD.-PARIs.
No Ill

NO. III.
ne,p FRIyND: After exhausting Havre, by
.taring at a very common church, amusing
,,rsalVas with the narrow, rambling streets full
ofoosar peonle-who acted as if not possessed
e s,od sense-and queerer vehicles pulled by
one or three horses tandem and for all the
world resembling rheumatic alligators mad
with exctement-after admiring the neat little
markets. we found ourselves possessed OF an
afternoon. and so determined to take the even
mo train as far as Rouen. The expre ss for
p,ris would reach Rouen. the next day, about
ten o'clock. A. NJ so that we would be blessed
with nights rest and glance at that ancient
eitv We found ut our hotel the six bearers OF
DISPATCHES. and they, too, had made the most
Of Hayre. and in high disgust, were prepared
10 20 on with us Their opinions OF this incor-
poratei antiquity, variously expressed, happily
were not understood by its ancient burghers
otherwise, their official dignity might not have
been respected What most astonished and
ANNOYED our friends was to find, as they ex-
pressed it, that the s.upidities could not under
stand their own language. Two OF the diplo'
matte corps had addressed themselves to the
labor'of obtaining a knowledge of French, and,
indeed, during the long voyage of the Franklin
they had devoted considerable time to investi-
eating and acquiring that elegant and some
what COM licated tongue They were pre-
plred so we were assured, to act AS interpret
ers on all occasions but, strange to say, these
Havreens had such wretched patois they
could not be understood at all, even when as.
sisted by the most energetic pantOmime.
The country between Havre and Paris ap-
peared to me a continuous garden--so delicious
IN its golden fields, green hills, and cool dells-
SO quiet under the bright summer sun - 80
happy with its farm houses and villages, its
Drowned reapers, merry lasses, browsing cattle,
winding roads, and shady avenues, that |
seemed flying by railroad through "As you like
H." and drank in the hay-scented air that
ate ;ted me AZ if the vineyards had filled the
very atmosphere with intoxication. | clapped
my hands and laughed like child excaim-
ing, Beautiful France-sunny France-land
of purple grapes and romance" and longed to
roll into every dell, or bask forever in some
patch of flower -encircled sunlight. But, look
ing back now in sober moments, recognise the
effect Of contrast between ship-board and the
first sight of the blessed country. | suppose
the districts ran through are carefully cult
waited and very beautiful, but not beauty such
as really am enraptured over. have now a
recollection of Nature somewhat too closely
cropped too closely ploughed upon, and save
indeed, that she had heavcd up hills and sent
the water sparkling beyond control, the whole
resembled, fearfully strong, the Dutch gardens
about Cincinnati. My own, nay native land
with It's inland seas, great forests and plunging
cataracts, has all that dream over and love OF
the picturesque and beautiful
We arrived in Rouen about dark, and, hav.
ing neglected to learn the name of some good
hotel, had a nice time at the station-house
The six bearers of dispatches had opinions
and were loud in expressing them; but as nc
two were the same, and each positive in his
own We had the promise of an exciting debate
Our conduct was absurd in the extreme We
would all crowd into All omnibus, apparently
unanimous; then, suddenly, at the suggestion
OF some one, all rush out again, to another,
greatly to the astonishment and Indignation OF
other passengers and Rouen inhabitants We
we're about locileronsly, to get out of the third,
when the vehicle drove off-not with all of us,
however. The bearer of dispatches to the Lc-
CATION at Berlin fell from the steps, with the
declaration that he would not be taken to such
den. But, upon second thoughts and hard
run that dignitary joined us again.
The Hotel dAngletcrrc is good that is, we
had comfortable beds in rooms not quite at an
eIhaus,ing height; meals so 50, and the land
lord did not ask US for all the money we had.
may DO the place injustice; but, the night
passed under its roof wac wretched The ia
tgue and excitement of the day were too much
Tor me, and, after resting five minutes found
Mlmpossibe to move. After supper, FASTENED
% bed thinking quiet was all | needed. was
TOO tired to sleep, too sick, indeed and hour
ai'eF hour watched the night steal drearily
away Hotel dAngleterre il on the quay and
on the quay the citizens Of Rouen, male and
female, are pleased to promenade heard
until midnight the continuous tramp-tramp
mingled with vouble gatherings until | was
nearly mad, and 80 earnestly prayed for quiet
Quiet came at last, and seemed the worse. The
slightest noise-the shutting of door, the steT
IN the hall--sounded to me like thunder and
when sleep at last came in catnaps, felt the
bed roll under me, and the great room shake
with memories of the ocean. / really slept
about daylight and was awakened at eight
with the intelligence that we must set out i'm
mediately in search Of the ancien' cathedral
could not, and arranged with d. to let mt
meet the party at the depot. The party had
~o hours, after rising, to look at the cathedral
'ne OF these was lost in waiting for breakfast
fugagng carriages, seeing to the luggage pay
'ng 6lli'; and at nine the sight-hunter set out
we met at the station house, five minutes
uelore The train from Havre rolled in. ID. and
wv diplomatic circle were, as usual, in an ex
ST"l state Of indignation. A merry twinkle
h1cy's eyes revealed the fact that there
va;n he'hng unheard, worth relating. J IN
questioned the gentlemen--they evaded
a, 49, p" make me none the wiser. Their efforts
Ia,, treatment were decidedly diplomatic. Al
out came the fact To use their own
pII1areo'ogy "The American people had been
Nd Alter All hours violent exertion. much
eApo1tuiation, and attempts at An unde rstand
a9 they had left Rouen without seeing anv.
'ahg Lucy afterwards gave me a yery anu
wig account Of the mornings adventure which
|. sue Oh;als, together with D., gravely admit
~l with protest at intervals. They had en-.
sNSea two carriages, and after many spceche,
~ne pantomlmc with the drivers in search
clthedral-the cathedral old as the hills
an aa worthy sea-yoyage to behold-they rode
fane distance, and at last halted before q
oeautfai building, but of yesterday build
t"poubtedly Our friends refused, positively
'N"r The church, and, surrounding the dri-
tiL sA ostulated and explained The visiters
10 " The drivers talked, several by-stander-
tnu",'ofm and blouses, soldiers and citizens
Gc, as loud as their lungs would permit. In
the ue less they were understood the louder
Teri, a snou'ed unit! one of the drivers, driven
rss, wild by the assAilants, uttered, with
ana "iuo'iity, shower of "Oui, oui's,
and ; nped on his box the assalants got in
On S n numerous "pauvre gsrc cons hanging
an nahding sous tor their valuable assist
Auce, they drove Of '''