The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1853-05-26

fully against black background. At the
church Of San Roch there was a regular stage
scenery-the mount Of Calvary at night, with
the dead Christ and the two thieves, in awful
solitude. The music at both these churches
was very fine, but the effect We had expected to
see produced by the preaching was not forth
coming. Formerly priests selected for their
eloquence, taking for the subjects of discourse
the sufferings and death Of Christ, wrought
themselves up to a high pitch of excitement,
and carried their susceptible audiences with
them, till the scene often resembled those at a
Methodist camp-meetng-wit groanings, and
prostratiOns, and passionate weepings. Bat
today though the priests exerted all their elo-
quence, pathos and dramatic power-clasped
their hands, prayed extemporaneously, flung
their arms toward heaven, pointed again and
again to the cruci6xion, burst into loud sobs,
always weeping into immense red silk handker-
chiefs-there came but cold and partial re-
sponses from the crowd. There was some deo-
orous crying among the women, and occasion
ally young man confessed to being touched
in his sensiblitics, by blowing his nose till all
rang again; but considering the extraordinary
outlay Of eloquenos and gssticelation the re-
turns were discouragingly small. -
On this day, we had seats in the choral
chapel at St Peters, to hear the MiSerere.
This chapel is considered, believe, very fine
but | cannot say admire it greatly. It is
chiefly remarkable for display of legs in its
architectural decorations. Gigantic angels, in
Stucco occupy, apparently, the most untenable
positions ON the edges Of cornices and arches
and above windows, with their legs, very strong
ly modelled and boldly posed, hanging over
But, as though to restore tho balance of things
on the wall are curious arabesque figures
wholly wanting in the usual means of peram
bulation, but terminating in flourishing grape
vines-so admirably drawn that it is really diff
| fcult to tell where the angel leaves off and thu
grapevine begins.
The Miserere in this small chapel was NOR,
powerful and brilliant, but far less sweet anC
solemn, than that of the Sistine; indeed | have
heard nothing which approaches, in meaning
and beauty, in tenderness, pathos and mean
| choly granLeur, that first Miserers of the Pope
chapel
This evening his Holiness came to ST. Peter
to adore the Cross and the relics, and the Car
dinal Vicar gave absolution then, to all who
| after having confessed, knelt before him in hu
mility and suppcaton. He sat in high chair
and touched each penitent with shining rod
"and straightway he was made clean "--spir
tually, alas, not physically.
Weconcluded the day by going to the church
| Of San Luigi di FranceSe, where we were told
the Stabat Mater was to be performed, but
| where we found ourselves-to use an expressive
lgarism-completely "sold," hearing no Sta
bat Mater, but being blocked in by crowd
and forced to listen to sentimental French
sermon, an hour long.
Early on Saturday morning, we witnessed
at the Baptistery of st. John Lateran, the bap
tism of a young Iewess, by the Cardinal Vicar
| This ceremony was beautiful and interesting
but, with those which followed, of too mysteri
Gus and complicated n nature, to Protestant
for clear comprehension or vivid description
The convert looked deeply serious Us well sh'
might for the step was momentous one Il
her. She was dressed very richly in white bro
cadc, with q white iillet on her head, and vel
which hung to her feet. Her god-mother wa
| the Princess Orsini After the confirmation
which took place in the church, we saw severa
curious rites ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS conferred o.
young priests by the laying on Of hands, anoin'
ing, and the first tonsure In this latter, tn
Cardinal Vicar cuts small locks of hair fror
tho heads of the young men, in the form Of tn
cross.
At one period of these ceremonies, when I'll
J Cardinal Vicar knelt before the, altar, or
order of priests knelt on the steps behind hir
and lower order behind them PROSTATE
themselves on the floor of the chapel, stretche
out at full length, their faces in their praye
books. They lay thus for at least quarter
an hour, chanting, or responding, in strang'
smothered voices. There was something cd
and oriental about this scene, which shall no
soon forget.
High mass in st Peters, on Easter Sunday
was brilliant, gorgeous, and joyous religion
show. The entire church was hung in Grim
son and gold tho pictures were uncovered
and extra lights and fresh flowers on ever,
altar. The Papal throne and the canopy abov'
it dazzled the sight with magnificent decora
tions; the Pope, cardinals, bishops, abbots
guards, all were in high, hOlyday splendor, il
honor and joyful commemoraton Of the resur
recton of Christ. By the bye, speaking o
Easter Sunday, we noticed in little Catholic
prayer book the other day, a sentence, 50 odd
~ worded and abbreviated, that it startled ont
by its apparent profanity. 1t states" Thi.
day J. c. out of limbo"
There was the usual amount Of incensing
and chanting, paying of homage "toting y
about Of the old Pope in his sedea gsstatoria
with the elevation Of the Host and the blow.
ing of silver trumpets as at Christmas. But
the finest sight of all was the benediction.
A little before twelve, we left the church
and went out into the great piazza, where a
vast concourse Of people were waiting to be
blest. The centre of tho place was occupied
| by the troops, surrounding them were various
| crowds Of citizens peasa nts, and strangers on
| foot, and outside Of oil were ranged the car
| riages.
The gun was shining respendently, the foun-
tains leaping toward the bluest Of heavens
all was peace and brightness-the mercurial
Italians seemed TO forget their slavery in the
very presence Of their masters-even the poor
peasant, rousing for g time from the slavish
stupor Of his degradation and want appeared
to claim his share in the hope and happiness
Of the occasion. The Pope came out upon the
balcony with much state and splepdor borne
in his great chair, which is like portable
throne He read the benediction, which was
rather an elaborate form, believe. We were
not near enough 10 hear more than sort OF
solemn murmur, which came to us by snatches,
but we could observe his Holiness, ut the close,
cross himself three times, lift his hands toward
heaven, fold them on his breast, stretch them
oat over the people, decent proportion OF
whom were kneeling. Then the guns from
st. Angelo doomed forth, the bell Of st. Peters
rang out joyously, the drums beat, the trum-
pets pealed, and that immense assembiage, 20
silent and motioness moment before, stirred
like the waves Of sea from which calm
has just been lifted, heayed sluggishly at first,
then mingled, and poured itself away. Alto.
gether it was scene which must live long and
brightly in my memory-not for the imposing
appearance Of the Pope and cardinals, for at
that height and distance they looked like set
of Marionetti performing high comedy on q
lofty little stage not for the benediction, or
indulgence--for had small faith in the one,
and trust no especial occasion for the other !;
but for the really grand sight of that varied
and picturesque crowd--so densely packed in
the great piazza, that, on looking down upon
il, it seemed one vast mosaic Of human heads !;
and for the brilliant confusion of the close