New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1853-01-20
BAYAsD TAYLoas LETTERS.
IXXI


MI sunrise We rode across the bridge, through
the old town and down the HILL passing the
trinle lines of the Moorish walls By the Original
pafeways. The road. stony and rugged beyond
measure. now took Ia the mountains. From
the Opposite height there MAS hne view OF the
Town. perched Ike an eagle nest on the verge
Of It's tremendous cliffs: but curtain OF rain
soon fell before it, and the dense, dark clouds
settled around US, and filled up the gorgos %
either hand Hour after hour We toled along
the slippery paths, scaling the higher ridges By
rocky ladders, up which our horses climbed
with the grestest difficulty. The scenery.
whenever ] could obtain misty glimpse OF IL
was sublime. Lofty mountain ridges rose %
either hand, bleak, jagged submits OF naked
rock pierced the clouds, and the deep valleys
chasms which separated them sankfar below US.
dark and indistinct Through the rain. Sometimes
caught sight OF little hamlet hanging on
some almost inaccessible ledge, the homo OF the
hwless. semi Moorish mountaineers, who inhaht
this wild region. The faces Of those We met
exhibited marked traces OF their Moslem an.
cestry, especially in the almond.shaped eye and
the dusky olive complexion. Their dialect re-
tains many Orieutals form of expression, and
was not a little surprised at finding tho Arabic
"ei,ca" yes in general used, instead OF the
Spanish 81.
About II o'clock We reached the rude village
of Atajate, where We procured very good
breakfast of kid, eggs and white Ronda vine.
The wind and rain increased. hut had no time
TO lose. as every hour sweled the mountains
floods and made che journey more diisicut. The
district is in the worst repute OF any IN Spain; IL
is very nest of robbers and contrabandistas.
At the venta in Atajate they urgedu us 70 take .
guard but my Naliant Jose declared that he had
never taken one and vet was never robbed; 80 /
trusted 10 his good luck. The weather, how.
ever was our best protection. In such drlv-
ing rain, We could bid defence to the flint looks
of their escopcttes, il, indeed, any could be
found. so fond OF their trade, as To ply it in .
storm
wherein tho cub-drawn bear would crosch
The hon and the belly punched wof
heep their lnrs dry
Nevertheless, noticed that each OF the TOW
conveys OF laden mules which We met, had one
or more of the guardia eiri! accompanying il.
Besides these, the only persons abroad were
some wild looking individuals, armed to the
teeth aud muiled in long cloaks, towards whom.
AS they ~ 5, ed, Jose would give his head slight
toss ana whisper 10 me: more contrabandis.
tas."
We were soon in a condition to defy the
weather The rain bet turiously in our faces,
especially when threading the wild-bown passes
between the bi~her peahc. | raised my UNI
breIla Ms defelce, but the first blast snapped
il in twain. The mountain sides were seined
with rills. roaring downward into the hollows.
and smallerrills soon began 20 trickle down my
own sides. Dining the lasS pars OF our way tho
path YVES nOtched along precipitocs sleeps,
where the storm was so thick that we could see
nsthinQ either above or below 10 was like nd.
inc along the outer edge OF the world. When
once you are thoroughly wet it IL treat satis.
faction 10 know that you can be no wetter, ana
so Jose and | went along in the best po,,lble
humOr, finding so much diversion IN our plight
that the dreary leagues were considerably short
ened
At the venta of Gaucin, where we stopped,
the people received US Kindly The house con.
sisted of one room-stable, Kitchen and dining
room all in one There was n small apartment
in windy loft, where a bed (much too SHORTY
was prepared for me. A fire Of dry heather
was made in the wide fireplace, and the rnddy
flames, with change OF clothing and draught
of the vintage of Estep0na soon thawed out tho
chill of the journey But | received news
which caused me great deal Of anxiety. The
River GuadiarO was 20 high that nobody could
cross, and two forlorn mnleteers had been wait
side Augmented by the rain which had fallen.
and which seemed TO increase asnight came on.
how could hope to cross il on tho morrOwt
In two days the India steamer would be at Glib
raltar; my passage was already taken, and l
must be there. The matter was discussed for
some time; il was pronounced impossible 70
travel by the usual road, but the landlord knew
q path among the hills which led To ferry on
the Guadiaro, where there was boat and from
thence we could make our way 10 San Rogue,
which is in sight OF Gibraltar He demanded
rather large fee for accompanying me, but
there was nothing else 10 be done. Jose and 1
sat down in great tribuiation 10 our accustomed
OLA but neither Of MS could do justice TO IL.
and the greater part gladdened the landlords
two boys-beautifIl little imps, with faces like
Nlurill0 cberubs.
Nevertheless, passed rather merry even
ing, chatting with some Of the villagers over q
brazier Of Goals, and one Of the Aforesaid boys.
who, although only eight years old, already per-
formed the duties OF moZO, lighted me 10 my
loft. When he had sat down the lamp, he tried
the door and asked me: :" Have you the keyl"
NO." said /, IL don't want one; ! am not
afraid" But" he rejOined, perhaps you may
get afraid in the night, and if you do, strike on
this part Of the WALL suiting the action 10 tho
word(-I sleep on that side" Willingly prom
ised tocall him TO myaidi if should get alarmed.
/ slept but little, for the wind was bowling
around the tiles over my head, and vas busy
with plans for constructing RATS and swimming
currents with rope around my waist Finally
/ found little oblivion, but il seemed that had
scarcely closed my eyes when Jose pushed open
the door. Thanks be 20 God, senior |" said be,
1T begins TO dawn and the sky Is clear, We shall
certainly get to Gibraltar to-day
The landlord was ready, so We took sons
bread and basket Of olives, and set out at once.
Leaving Gsuein, We commenced descending the
mountain staircase by which the Serrania Of
Ronda il scaled, on the side towards Gibraltar.
The road" says Mr. Ford, seems made by
the Evil One in hanging garden OF Eden
After four miles of friQhtfully rugged descent.