Weekly national intelligencer. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1841-1869, 1853-12-03
CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC.

CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC.
Journal of The Expedition of Superintendent
BEALE and GwINE HARRis HEAP from Missouri 10 Cali
Jornia Journal kept By G. H. HEAr
[Conhausd from The National Iteligncr Of November ~
June 1.-The weather in the morning cool and
pleasant with the wind from the northwest. According
to maps we within an easy days travel Of
the mouth of the HUERrANo, (Orphahs river and were
anxious reach that point it there that we were
to leave the beaten track and traverse the plains lying
between the Arkansas and the base of the Spanish edh
Sierra Blanca and Los Granros. We made an early start
Beale and going ahead before sunrise The road led
occasionally on the Arkansas bottom but frequent
ly the upper plain The bottom was covered with an
abundance grass and the plain 1T was scan
and in lunches In four miles from camp we crossed
UPPER Day CREEK" which is seven miles from Bents
Fort and twelve the road passes considerable
pond We many large bands of antelope and deer.
AT haf-pas twelve ascended remarkable spur which
projects the river bottom and be for fifteen
miles below 1t bears due northeast from the Spanish
peaks From this point could the course of TIMPA
CREEK from the mountains to its junction with the Ar
kansas On the right bank of the Tmpa its mouth,
several singular bue two of which conical and
the remainder fat-topped. We encamped couple OF
miles below the Timpa, aud about twenty-eght above
Bents Fort This is about the distance at which the
mouth of the Huerfano is laid down the maps but
found that it sixteen seventeen miles further up
the Arkansas In fact from this point until reached
the Mormon settlements on Little Salt Lake and Los
Vegas de Santa Clara could place no reliance on our
maps
We crossed the Arkansas one mile above the mouth of
the Timpa where we had no difficulty in finding ford,
though unless due caution is used, animals are apt to
get entanged in qucksands We found the grass on the
plains west of the Arkansas abundant and OF bet
ter quality than on the side we had just left We per-
ceived much graa grass and The water of the
Tmpa, which found in holes only was cool but slight
ly brackish s+
We had bright starry night, and during my watch
saw splendid Aurora Boreals.-30 miles 5S0 miles.
June I've left the Tmpa at early dawn, and could
discern at distance of fifteen miles high buttes
bearing due west in line with Los GRANrRos MOUNTAINS
towards which travelled The country very level
gradually rolling towards the buttes and covered with
good bunch grass. The prickly pear, which grows in
clusters close the ground at times very distressing
to our mules.
Upon reaching the summit of the bues most magnificent
and extensive panorama was spread to view. The
horizon bounded the north by Pe's Peak north
west and west by Los Graneros Sierra Mada and Sdnqe
de Cristo Mountains and Spanish Peaks To the south
ward and eastward extended the praes lost in the hazy
distance On the gently unduating plains extending to
the foot of the mountains we could trace of
the ARKANSAS and SAGE CREEK H their lines OF timber
The APIsPAH hidden from by range OF interven-
ing bnttes. The object of Search the HUERrANo,
flowed at feet distant about three miles, its
was easy to be distinguished for could see 1T from
where it issued from the mountains to its junction with
the Arkansas except short intervals where it passed
through chasms and cahons.
We descended the buttcs to the Hucano, and camped
il about FIVE miles above its mouth. 1t is bold and
rapid stream its water urbid but sweet and COOL The
river bottom broad and well wooded with cottonwoods
nterlaced with wild bushes and grape-vnes and
hickly carpeted with excellent grass Where sketched
the stream it about twenty five yards in breadth and
FIVE feet deep close to the bank.
The mouth Of the Huerfdno bears due north by east
from Spanish Peaks and not northeast our maps.
We abundance of antelopes and deer on the
plains and the Delaware brought in fine buck
We crossed the Huerfano in the afternoon, about six
miles above its mouth. The ford good and only
three feet deep We found fine grama grass the upper
plain each side Of the river and abundance OF rich
- Ia 20 Laays IL, t;,.ka
occasionally closed in by handsome bluffs Of sandstone
We encamped on its left bank
The following correct bearings from the mouth of
the Hufano Pixies Peak northwest; northern Spanish
Peak S. by W. ; Southern Spanish Peak S.S.W General
course of the river is from southwest to northcastS
miles COS miles.
June 3-Our camp last night was ame below the lower
end of the caon through which the Hc.fano forces
passage. This cahon is about eighteen miles in length,
and the ground is much up each side by deep and
rocky ravne running into it, rode up to the entrance
of this gorge sketch it. and found the scenery wild and
beautiful Several wild turkeys few away my approach,
and deer from their beds in the grass the
bottom of the Gallon and made their escape up ravine
to the plain.
long line of bluffs runs parallel to the Huerfano on
the wes from FIVE miles distant and it is the
base Of these bluffs that wagons should travel to avoid
the broken ground nearer the creek They thckly
covered with dwarf cedars and pines and under them
the country is gently unduating. wagon trail from
the Greenhon and Hdrdserabb settlements the Upper
Arkansas approaches the Huerjdno below the ca1on,
leaves IL at the caon and returns to IL above. We tra
yelled up its left bank twenty -four miles and encamped
Mt gully, with water in holes which
had good grass This however the all day. for
had not finer pasturage since leaving Council
Grove
The scenery approached the country between the
Spanish Peaks and Los Graneros very beautiful.
During our incoming storm in the mountains covered
them with snow but the plains it rained hard and
had wet ride in the afternoon. At the crossing Of
Apache Creek small brook running into the Hurfano,
the rain descended in torrents accompanied by high
westerly wind Our mules could not face the storm, and
turned backs to IT, and waited patiently until it
subsidized. The packs got wet and the ground became
spongy and boggy Soon after dark encamped again
on the Huerano in the midst Of uxurant grass about
mile below the butte which is prominent land mark
The night was clear, but heavy dew fell which
completely saturated every thing already by rain
We made our beds in mud SIX inches deep-34 miles
642 miles.
June Al took several sketches this morning Of Huer-
fano Butte is remarkable mound bearing due north
from the southernmost Spanish Peak and about fifty
yards from the river
Our ride to-day full of interest We wore now an
preaching the Sangre de Cristo Pass in the sanpre de
Cristo mountains. We had been travelling for eighteen
days uninterrupted plain until it's monotonv had
become extremely wcarisome TO us. The mountain
scenery which entered after raising can tbs
morning Of the widest and beautiful desorin
tion. We crossed the Haerano seven miles above tho
Butte At this point it issues from caon one hundred
and fifty yards in length Above this canon the valley
watered by the Huefano spreads into beautiful
plain Of small extent and surrounded by lofty we'll
wooded mountains; rills trickle down their
sides rrgate the plain and join their to those of
the Huefdno, which here clear and cold We did not
enter this valley but after crossing the H. left it and
followed up the bed Of Of it's tributaries the Cchada
(spoon Creek small brook rising near the summit Of the
n n m a