New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1853-11-15

s,ssl loa NJ siiher foot he IL ready ~ eommsnce his
4 vsra,ons Tho ,hsttio, ubsfowib ho eaoses the
cross threads ~ wolf ~ ntrdaeo Tho warp, w. 10
to, like netting needle. aud being somewhat longer
u nm the breadth ~ tho warp IL made 10 perform inc
.e ~ battrn ny striking the threads Of tho wool
or shoot close 10 each other.
The art Of weaving varies but little, whatever may be
the nature 81 tho mate rial which IL to be made Ia tho
weaving Of slk wooden fabrics the difference In the
construction Of the looms lea chiefly the greater
strength aud weight required In the machinery en-
ploycd In the manufacture OF the latter
In order that orr readers may be- enabled 10 apprc-
cia,e the value OF the Improvements that have been In
PRODUCED in the machinery OF weaving within the last
century-a period that embraces nearly all the i'm
portant notifications that have been effected in tit
win be necessary for US TO describe the pro-
cess of plain weaving, as performed by what
ia called the single loom. The first operation con-
sists in LAYING the requisite number Of threads 10
ee,her 10 form the width of the cloth This process is
termed rarp.ne Let us suppose by way oil illustra-
tiou the width of the intended cloth 70 consist oil V
threads: then the yarn must be so unwound from inc
bCbbins and distributed as TO form lUOO lengths
constituting when laid parallel the warp OF the stun
or in other words the vertical threads attached 10 the
loom Before the invention Of the warpng frame t1e
weaver was obliged TO draw out the yarn from the
bobbins at full length in open held, aud this method
is still pracced in India and China. by this Improve
ment great deal of labor is saved. the threads being
rapidy arranged BY means OF frame revolving on YER
teal axis They then taken OF the frame AMI wound
on stick into bail previous 10 the process OF oea Hsg
or winding them the beam ef the loom. Great care
is required in lay ing them "a evenly as possoe on the
loom for this purpose rayel or comb Is used 10 spa
rate them at equal distances To the intended width OF
the cloth The warp-tbreads then drara attached
seraratey 10 certain mechanism of the loom In this
process all tie threads attached TO stays hxed TO
two frames called heddes in such manner that all tue
alternate threads can be drawn up or down oy one
Ledde aud all the rest By the other There are three
NJ We
weaver throws across the warp In the hrst place he
presses down one of the two reades by which one OF
the heddles is depressed thereby forming Kind OF
opening called the shed. Into this shed at the second
movement he throws the shuttle containing the Welt
thread with sufficient force drive across the whole
web Then az the third movement he grasps the JasR,
which is kind of frame carrying at its lower edge
comb-like piece having as many teeth as there are
threads in the warp, and with this ne drives up the
thread of welt close TO those previously thrown one
thread of WET is thus completed and the weaver pro-
ceed, TO throw another in similar way, but IN re-
verse order that ia by depressing the lett treade In
stead of the right and by throwing the shuttle from
left to right instead OF from right 10 lett In tne COM
mopes mode of weaving the shuttle Is tnrown py ooh
hands alternately, but about century ago person
named Kay invented what is called the NY shuttle, in
which a string and handle placed that the weaver
can work the shuttle both ways with one hand. In
weaving plain silks calcoes and other webs OF moder-
ate width, there two leaves OF hediies ana TWO
treadles for dividing the warp into small parcels
Figure wearing the art of producing various pat
forms in the cloth either by the introduction of threads
Of arious coors, by different ARRANGEMENT oil the
threads, by using in the fabric threads OF d
ferent substances Ii seems to have been practced oy
tie Egyptians at q very remote PERIOD Tor we nni
mention made in the works of Herodotus of curious
breastplae or euirass covered with linen, which was
cent by King Amasis to the lacedemonlans lie states
that each of its apparently slender threads was COM
posed of three hundred hlaments, which, under care
ful examination were all distinctly visible
The improvements introduced of late years into TINS
ornamental branch of the art have been many and I'M
portant but previous to giving any description OIL
these improvements it is necessary to explain gene
rally the H0re simple although more aborous ana less
perfect means whereby the weaver was formerly eha
bled to produce the requisite varieties OF form aud
color from his loom. - =,
Tie silks known as shot silks are produced by the
difference in color in the threads composing the warp
and the welt A stripe is pattern IN when paraii
liues run either along or across the warp, whue
"a check is alienation OF rectangles IKE cn.s
beard or more strictly speaking, like the varieties
known as Scotch plaid The production CT stripe
depends either upon the warper or the weaver; the
production of check upon both. This mode OF orna-
menng textile fabrics is very ancient as may DC seen
by tie figures in Rossellnis Egypt, many Oh .ae
figures in which are attired in chcckered cloths Ine
compartments of a checked pattern are sometimes
formed by differently cOlored threads and sometimes by
threads Of different qualities. In the uM when forms
the web of satins and bOmbazne the wet threads pass
over one warp thread and under tive, over one and
under three, or over one and under eight or ten,
according to the kind Of twill required the effect
of this is to produce o kind Of diagonal ribbed ap-
pearance either on the right or lhe wrong
side ofthe cloth and smooth and glossy surface on
The other, according as the one thread Is crosseI
above or below by the welt To produce these results
more than two leaves heddles required aud more
than Two reades to work thsm and the weayers loom
is thereby rendered much more complicated machine
than that employed in plain weaving
When the design embraces figures, flowers, or pat.
tiers OF any other kind different means must be resortei
TO- BY dividing the warp between several leaves oil
LeGdles which can be depressed at pleasure by sepi
rate treades threads of different cOors may be either
concealed or brought out on the surface OF the cOln at
the pleasure OF the weaver. These threads may be
made to change places one with the other 80 as 10 re-
veal or conceal each in such as to make ou' the
particular pattern intended When threads ofdiierent
colors or substance are employed in forming the shoot
the shuttles containing such different threads must
substituted often as s required by the coheempied
change Of pattern To effect this substitution with but
little trouble or loss 0flime 10 the weaver SIMPLE but
efecual continuance is used One OF the troughs con-
pected with tie shuttle race s made in two parts thus
The box forming part of the trough in which the saut'
tie placed between the warp and the pecker or driver
can be easily exchanged for another box furnished WIN
different shuttle having wound on 1t threat oil the
kind wanted In order to facilitate this exchange OF
the shuttes the moyeabe part trough suspended
from center of motion therefore the box on ts CENTER
any one of its divisions may be brought opposite the
driver go as exactly to coincide with IT, and to form part
of the same trough in continuation OF the shuttle race
The upright bar the shuttle box works upon curved
arm which is furnished with pegs OF catches TO genuine
the bar in the precise position which u snouh occupy
N more than three different coored threads wanted
TO form the shoot there may then DO two movable
boxes for the shUttes being placed at each end oil
the shuttle race
As in the production of twilled cloths in which the
variety of patterns are ext nsye II was found that