The daily republic. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1853-1853, 1853-08-17

From the Nsw York National Democrat.
Curiosity OF Chinese Dress and Cere-
mOny. nasn. 5Es @ Sex
The Chinese dresses of ceremony are exceed
ingly rich and handsome, and contrast with great
advantage with the queer unmeaning caplngs and
skirtngs OF our coats. The color Of the spepser
is usually dark-blue or purple, and the long dress
beneath is commonly Of some lighter and gayer
hue. On State occasions this last is very splen-
didly embroidered with dragons or other devices, in
silk and gold, and the cost amounts frequently to
large sums At the imperial feast, of which re-
cent embassy partook at Trentsin, the crowd OF
Mandarins in full dress, surmounted by their
crimson caps and various colored balls, certainly
produced a very striking effect. s..glla,
The great sin of the Chinese costume is the
scarcity Of white linen, and, consequently, of
washing. Even their body garment is sometimes
species of light silk, but capable of publication.
All the rest Of their dress being of silks or frs,
there is less demand for linen, in proportion to the
numbers, than in any other country. They
spread neither sheets upon their beds nor cloths
on then tables; and the want Of personal cleanli-
neous and leprous complaints Their substitute
for soap is an alkaline ley, derived from mineral
substance, and rather corrosive in its nature.
The skins Of all animals are converted into ap-
pare for the winter. The lower classes use that
of sheep, cats, dogs, and squirrels. Even rat and
mouse skins are sewn together for garments. The
expensive fur dresses Of the higher classes descend
from father to son, and form sometimes no incon-
siderable portion of the family inheritance. " AT
an entertainment in Canton, when the party, &C.
cording to the custom of the country, wero seated
in an open room without fires, the European
guests began to complain of cold, upon which the
host Immediately accommodated the whole NUM-
1 hnu Hos red
sponsors, all of the most costly furs, telling them
at the same time that he had plenty more in re-
serve. au III
( The Chinese may be said to possess an advan-
tage in the absence of those perpetual and fire.
quently absurd mutations of fashion in Europe
and America which ut one period blow out the
same individual like balloon, and at another
contract her into a mummy; and which are fire.
quently rdculed and followed in excess at one
and the same time. They are not at the mercy
and disposal, in matters Of taste, of those who
make their clothes, and their modes generally
last as long as their garments. The human
shape and dress are not varied with the infinite
though indisputable species of merit, "being in
the height Of the fashion, the honor of which
must be chiefly shared with the tailor and the
milIiner is nearly unknown to them. The only
setter of fashions is the board of rites and cere-
monies at Pekin, and to depart from their ordi-
nances materially would BIO considered as some
thing worse than mere n,a,tuass ton. 1t is theil
business not only to prescribe the forms, on all
occasions of worship or of ceremony, but the
costumes which are to be worn must be IN strict
conformity to rule. The dresses of all ranks and
orders. and Of both sexes, about the imperial
palace, are specified as regards cut, color, and
material, with as much precision as any court IN
Europe. From the Tartar religion to the Lamas,
the rosary of the one hundred and eight beads
has become part of tho ceremonial dress at
tached to the nine grades of official rank.
It consists of q necklace of stones and corals,
nearly as large us pigeons egg, descending to
the waist, and distinguished by various beads nc
cording to the quality of the wearer.
The various appendages, as the purse or pouch,
match case, etc.. are generally of the finest silk
embroidery, which form one Of the principal &C
complishments of Chinese ladies. All the hand
some Grape shawls exported from China, some OF
which cost from eighty to a hundred dollars, are
entirely the work of women. -
A Chinese is seldom seen without his snu1f.
bottle, which is of oval construction, and less
than two inches in length, the stopper having Q
small spoon attached, with which portion Of
snuff is laid on the left hand, and at the lower
point of the thumb, and thus lifted to the nose
The material of these bottles is sometimes o
porcelain or of variegatcd glass, carved with con
siderable skill in the style of canoes, or OF roc
|
side, performed in a manner which is not easy t
account for.
l Among the presents sent to-, or, in the languag
of Pekin diplomacy, conferred upon foreign sove
regns is the embroidered silk purse, one OF which
it Is said, the old Emperor, Kienloong took from
| his side and gave to the youth who ofticiated a
page to Lord Mccartney. This was of the impe
rial yellow color, with the fve-clawed dragon
and could hardly be worn by Chinese subjects
who always displayed the most profound rever
ence and admiration when they saw 1t and kne"
it was from the great Emperors own person.
The ornament which has sometimes, tor wan
of a better name, been called sceptre, is IN tao
an emblem of amity and goodwill, of shape les
bent than the letter s, about eighteen inches Il
length, and cut from tho jade or yu-stone. 1t !
called by the Chinese, joo-ee, or ''as you wish,
and is simply exchanged as a costly mark 0
friendship; but that it had religious origin seem
indicated by the sacred flower OF the lotus being
carved on the superior end. ,tf -t, j.
| The heads of the men arc invariably shaver
except from the top, whence tho tail depends Il
conformity with the Tartar custom, the oni
change being in mourning, when tho hair is al
lowed to grow. .sa.Ht a +-s..
The women would frequently be very pretty
were it not for the shocking custom Of daubini
their faces with white and red paint to whici
may be added tho deformity Of cramped feet. II
point of health this is in great degree made ~
by the total absence of tight lacing, and of all lig
atures and confncmcnts whatever about the vita
parts. Their dress is, extremely modest and be
coming, and in the higher classes as splendid a
the most requisite silks and embroidery can maxi
it, for the Chinese it is said, reserve the bost silk
for themselves. ,..gs
| Unmarried women wear their hair hanging
down in long tresses, and the putting up OF tn
hair is one Of the ceremonies preparatory to mar
riago The eyebrows of the young womon ar
fashioned until thoy represent a fno-curved line
which is compared to tho new moon when only
day or two old, or to tho lenfiet of the willow
Their ordinary dress is a large-sleeved robe ofsil
over longer garment of some lighter color, TN
der which are loose trousers, which are tastene
around the ankle Just above the small foot I'm