The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1853-08-17


close We feel that IL must be SO; but yet the pro-
meaadee and public places OF amusement are still
gay, 70 elegant. that ne cann0t believe It possible
that fashion has quito abandoned us. At no one
period Of the history Of fashion, In Paris has the art
OF dress been 30 artisticahy studied, successfully
demonstrated az at the present moment; ct no pre-
vious epoch has female toilet been brought to the
degree OF perfection by which it is di tnguished
So remarkable is this fact, that everywhere, Just
now, Is quoted the expression Of Count Pahen on
the occasion of his annual visit to capital" Why
do all the Paris ladies look 80 lovely? Those Of my
acquaintance must be year older since saw them
last, and yet they look more youthful than ever
Those who were never before remarkable for
good looks, might now pass for beauties, had not
the attractions Of those who presented the
smallest pretensons before, increased in the same
proportion" We have solved the mystery; il ia the
new and becoming shape Of the bonnets, the grace
full cut OF the mantles the full flowing skirts, and
the light and youthful trimmings now worn, to
which is owing the change so puzzling and mex
plicable to the greatest conn0isseur Of female tene
IN Europe. The new style Of dress which is now
universally adopted during the sultry weather s be-
coming to oil ages, to oil fgurest is the robe Ia
Gitama, generally composed Of .nousseline de sol
or tissn des Suhanes, made tunic fashion, open in
front, and reaching to the ankle, whore the hem
meets the rich embroidery of the underskirt of white
cambria, displaying it to the extent Of about six
inches, no. more more: rich pattern generally runs
der robe, which is complete in all its parts,
fitting light to the figure, low over the
shoulders, and en- cGur in front. The whole
reaching almost to the wrist, where they are termi
mated q Ia Smrntote, being open up the arm and
embroidered to the shoulder. No corsage is worn
with the tunic. but small and most elegant caraco.
Of an entirely new shape is made almost close fitting
behind, descending but little below the waist where
1t is terminated on the hips by light and most
elegant description of trimming, entirely new. 1t il
quite transparent, made of unwrought silk to match
the various cOlOrs in the tunic. and hangs with
much ease and grace over the skirt, is far superor
in its effect To the various trimmings hitherto en-
ployed, that II is even said 70 give entirely new
to,r'iire to the demoyche of our fair premenaders.
The sleeves of the ca,ac0 are quite short, falling
merely in two open lappels from the shoulder. The
patterns most in vogue for these tuncs are those Of
light and tender kind running wreaths Of rose
buds on lilac ground, paquercttes, or May flowers
on blue ground, semes of small Strawberries or
cuIrants on bluff chine ground Some of the more
costly fabrics are painted in a running pattern Of
flowers all round the border of the tlnic in nitltion
of the rich stuff worn in the winter; but these
voted not so ben portes as the Others and conse-
quent]y have been beheld more frequently in the
voitures dc remase than in private carriages. But
little new has been presented for morning Dress The
2aid de Paris is fairly adopted, and likely to CONT
nue. in favor till the autumn. Some dresses of this
charming fabric have been seen at the camp at Sa-
tory. assuming by their make pretension to which
iii their origin they laid no claim. Some of these
muslin body, mounting high up TO the throat, and
two braces Of the material crossing behind and
descending in front To the waist where they termi.
nate in bon6ont with two short ends. These braces
are worn considerably wider than last month; they
are invariably edged with narrow black lace, and
are most becoming finish to the hitherto somewhat
crude effect OF the plain white body with the coored
skirt. Caracas Of p,qn6 still maintain their vogue.
They are still made perfectly tight to the figure aud
vigorously closed to the chin. They are edged with
stiff brodcrae Anglaise, without funess but open
at the hips to give ease to the figure. The only
vety in these caracas lies in the wonderful variety
nf bnftr nx,yfN vu1,so
This industrac has opened quite new field to the
ingenuity Of our c0ericres, and bout0n Ahglaise
d PAAlsnaade, Ia hopssa,t'e, d la VdLdgme, or de
Bragaace, determine the style and pretension Of
this otherwise plain and simple article OF dress. 1t
is fair to say however that the preference in bou
tons riches is decidedly given to those of kruesnsch
manufacture. Sometimes our pettcs mattresses in
duge in the greatest extravagance with regard to
these ornaments, and the set made by Lemonier for
Madame de Tressan, composed of alternate rubies
and emeralds gradual ng in size towards the waist
have been on view during the week. and have excited
great admiration.
A novelty in Paris caprice has become quite fea-
ture i'll our promenades this year consisting of
white muslin dresses with founces, with nantes of
the same; white bonnets with garniture, whether Of
flowers or marabouts, entirely white Sometimes tie
entire wilderness of this toilet is relieved by the gar
niture Of the dress being composed of Juiyonncs
reaching to the knee, through which are passeS rib
hons of bright pink or blue exactly in the fashion
worn more than twenty years ago. These dresses,
worn with the mantle and bonnet to match, seem
made expressly for in the Americaine-the
carriage so much in vogue for the Bots dc Bouo2ne
it would be impossible to keep them from getting
crumpled and faded in any other description of We
bicle. The effect of this almost eccentric style
of dress is, however, very charming, when
thus viewed = the freshness, lightness, and
simplicity OF its appearance are both novel
and striking. The long line of Amcricaines
which station at the Camp ut Satory whe the
troops are under review, each Containing two ladies'
thus at'ircd, has become one OF the sights Of tae
place, aud 20 stranger would think of leaving the
Camp without paying visit to the psrtcrrc. The
military gallantry ofthe officers has designated the
corner where these carriages stationed. Bonnets
present the only novelty OF being rather closed
round the face; this however. depends much more
upon the taste of the weaer than that Of the millner
Madame Jeanne, whose fancy, associated with that
ofMadame VictOrine, has succeeded in producing
the present successful revolution in fashion, has been
making many chapeaux zephires OF fLagrane de
H0gide internxed with velvet, which have produced
sensation. These shapes are quite close to the
face, shading the lower part Of the counenance,
while the eyes and forehead are completely exposed
to view. The ornament on the outside, whether
composed of bouquet of flowers, or a mixed cOgHe
or blonde and velvet (the latter the syls h of
the two) is placed close to the edge the passe the
ends OF velvet or the tcDdrils OF the flowers falling
over. The w0rkrooms of the odstes arc in full ac-
tivity for the yetour dc saison, and many striking
novelties have been produced. The chapeau ii la
jardiniere, composed entirely of loops of narrow
ribbon, has had much success for the evening prone
Haue ~ tHe I.uHT. ODc tonne OF our acquaintance
has carried with her to Neris no less Than seven of
these 5drdMivos in different coors. The Marie An
tonette nantes in spotted muslin have obtained
much favor; they are simple and becoming, made
without cape or collar, ruche of muslin Ia r,ciie
alone suffcing to mark the shape Of the shoulders.
They descend no lower than the elbow, and are
merely trimmed with ruchc In rieHe all round
Our general observations NO esco9pins what
ever have been worn this summer: brodegitips Of
satin des cs have been the sole chouSsure of ladies
of ton. Sun bonneS of round flat shane have Sue
ceedcd the hoods, tl0unced and ruched, which were
in vogue last season. These are formed of large
piece OF muslin, generally of chiutz pattern, laid
upon the top of the head, which falls by its own
weight fetin over the plat of hair behind. From
the interior depend small bouquets of daisies or lilies
of the valley and long brides, through which are
passed the gold pins used for maintaining this most
fancul and becoming couture ON the head. The
Chinese parasol, completely fiat when spread out
has completely superseded that of the ordinary make
No expense is spared upon the ornamentng Of these
pet articles dc lure, always so cherished by every
PETITE maitrcsS6. Incrustatons Of turquoise and
sepn ri oil a1o hon t,,ot,a ,F,