The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1853-05-16
Paris Fashions for May.
from the London Court Journal. MAJ

the hall after the health Of the Lady Mayoress was
drunk.
Paris Fashions for May.
From the Lon6on Court Journal, May !.
A decided change in fashion has been observable
during the month. The effects Of Longchamps are
visible through every degree Of toilet. Walking
dress has altered in material long before the weather
has changed sufficiently to warrant any innovation
ofwooen stuffs and the richness Of the colors and
softness Of this material contribute much to the
livenment of our promenades during its short reign.
new mixture for the ground of this stuff has been
pattern, which gives it the appearance Of the most
rich and bright danask the stripes whether crclng
the jupe en- Bayadere, or carried en- baguette
straight down the front from the corsage to the feet
are woven by new method Of throwing up the silk,
giving them the appearance of the clouded satin made
at Venice in former times. The effect Of these rates
neoxleses is very brilliant. The robe baguete, made
in silk, valencas, or alpaca is generally Of green,
dark blue, or violet. The double stripe down the
front is of novel kind, consisting Of every bright
and striking color which agrees with the nuanse of
the dress. Rows of an entirely new description of
button, displaying the same mixed colors as the
stripe, and flashing between the baguettes, give pc
culiar novelty to this species OF dress. waistcoat
combining the same colors but in narrower stripes,
is again ornamented with this new description Of
button. The basques of the corsage are trimmed
with gdace, and fringe Of mixed colors. Alto
gether, this toilet . "a Gitana is one Of the most
striking which the Longchamps of this year has
bequeathed us. The ndtimGes have been during
the month most brilliantly attended. The Prin-
cess Bragacions Wednesdays have furnished o
greater display CT taste and fashion than we have
beheld in Paris since the days Of Louis Philippe.
The youthful bride Of the Due de Ia R.wore on We'd
nesday last light blue gros de Naples, brocaded In
a rich design of rose ces,dree and white. A long
founce mounted ON the jupe en- dents de louS, the
heading marked out with delicate embroidery in
pink silk and white jet; the bottom Of the founce
embroidered to match, aud the corsage opened in
front with double wastcoat, showing the pink
Yerers beneath the white watered silk; buttons Of
dress. Over it was worn white silk jacket, most
exquistely embroidered in white jet and pearls. The
exquisite delicacy and freshness Of this toilet in
spired the greatest admiration.
The bonnet worn with this dtstingu6 costume was
Of white Grape, ornamented with daisies, wreath
Of which, with pearl hearts, crept along the edge
two long dropping punches Of the same flower were
placed on either SIDE and, mixed with tulle, came
worn by the Princess also attracted great atten-
ton. Itwas Dress d Ia honssarde, of rich silk. An
elaborate embroidery in military pattern down the
front increasing in width it reached the hem, was
carried round the bottom Of the skirt with marvel
lOus effect The color Of the dress was OF the new
tint OF green denominated cert President, the en-
broidery black, relieved with violet. nlanfe Of the
new form designated by the name rGtement was worn
with this dress. 1t was OF rich MORE much decorated
with embroidery; lifelong hanging sleeves were open
to the elbow, showing the elaborate acon Of those
belonging to the dress beneath. Amongst the number
Of roles rInperatrice, robes aianlantines, robes
damdsquinees, and robes Ia Narquiss seen at this
assembly, we noticed particularly the dress of the
young Spanish Countess de l.. 1t was of jonquil
MORE, with creres Of black guipure entaUie down
the front Of the skirt. These creucs were united by
broad ribbon passed through them this new idea
completely subdued the hard effect Of creues which
had hitherto caused their rejection from the aters
Of our first rate conreres. The sleeves Of the dress
were open to the shoulder, the creces of black gu-
v,pro mic in cir nc cbodt ho
wrist, and there terminating In q b0nfant which
encircled the hand naanfe surprise covered the
shoulders. 1t was composed of gMtpure de lame,
bordered with full cherr6e Of the same color as the
dress, laid on in serpentine pattern. The bonnet
was Of black lace ornamented with tufts Of ostrich
feathers and beneath the brim two enormous
punches of jonqus seemed to throw it back from the
face This toilet the most admired Of all, from
its exceeding simplicity aud richness and the con.
trast which the bright and full jonquil color afforded
to the clear dark complexion and raven hair Of the
wearer.
Bonnets ofevery kind are made low in the neck be-
hind however fancy they may be trimmed across the
pdsse. Fancy straw seems decidedly destined to be-
come the vogue again this year as it has been for
these two seasons past. Some of these bonnets are
elaborate and RECHERCHE in pattern in the extreme, and
oncof imitation point d. Alencoa made of the finest
Italian Thread struck being the perfection
o. this sort OF manufacture 1t was lined with silk
re,t President, and trimmed with small wreath Of
rose buds, creeping round the edge. narrow more
ribbon rert President mixed with rose buds creep
ing in and out WAS laid across the pdSse. The sim
pcity and freshness OF this garniture admirably
cOntrived to set off the delcacy of the workmanship
of the point d Aeslc01, and reflected the greatest
credit on Madam Anais the inventor. 1t would seem,
however thatthe same degree of expense and luxury
in the article of bonnets which we have been crti-
cisng is, nevertheless, destined to be continued
through the summer, for, in general these fancy
straws which seem so valuable for their very light
ness are loaded with ribbons and flowers which COM
petely destroy the sole effect for which they were
formerly so much priced.
The dropping form Of the bonnet is produced in
straw by the ingenious contrvance of raising the
passe TO the shape of the head. The effect of the
universal adoption Of this shape has been to raise
the couture OF hair around the face, and to compel
the employment of an increased quantity of orna-
ment beneath the brim Caps arc but little in vogue.
The good old times Of dress bonnets are completely
revived and numberless have been the inventions
which have arisen to furnish the interior of the brm.
First and foremost amongst these stands the new
bonnet Of gold blonde, which, presented by NJ. You'll
lon to The Empress and worn by her on the occasion
OF her visit TO the Opera Comique, created an indie
scribable sensation amongst our fair amateurs of
fashion, and has since that moment become per-
feet f,,renr. This bonnet, Ia duchesse, is com
posed OF the finest and most minute fibres OF gold
wire, made on the pillow in imitation of the richest
lace either blonde, Brussels, or Honton. The effect
Is peculiarly elegant The one worn by the Empress
was ornomented with marabouts splashed with gold,
and beneath the brim wreath Of white m1rguerites
cncTcled the countenance, mingled with small gold
buds and tendrils. The bonnets destined to find
great favor, as they combine the richest effect with
remarkable lightness and elegance.
For ball dress, We have resumed Of late all the
cfas mogeu1 which are airy and becoming
tue illusion, silk Grape mousS,ne de scic and gaze
chanhery, have completely replaced the tissues OF
thread and cotton which have had 80 long u reign.
Flounces are narrower, in greater number, aud gra
duating towards the waist. An cndeavor has been
made for the last two or three great balls to renew
the Vatican gtVp in the abundance of ugVVpr3 dis.
posed over the skirt. We have seen o paTmre by
Constantin, consisting Of the flowers Of the gycenc,
which, beginning from the shoulder, and carried
transverscy to the hem of the frit skirt, dropped
into large traindsSes of exquisite workmanship,
serving to loop the second and third 1npes of the
dIeas Thia has been considered the greatest novel;