New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1853-09-14

at tie Crystal Palsee We have every reason % eerv
that ia the department. OF suPerane CLOTH the f-iIn
excellence would jrstly be, sFardsd TO Belgium ~
must be remembered, however. that the specimens %
extra superfne WeEt Of Englaad end French Cio'f
which gained the Przes e. the World Fair N kngliR
d Isl. are not included IN the present Exhibition
What We have seriously % sprak o. is The negec' o.
nearly al the exhibitors 70 provide cin tlt persons
to attend the stalls and aori information IS 70 the
relative PToes % tie different articles. We can lut5e
Of tie quality ana form opinion OF rs relative
merits With regard TO other articles OF saiisr eai
Hcter hut unless can ascertain the price ar Wnick
such and such articles can be obtained Il is impossible
70 say how far America has succee led IN competing
with foreign countries in this respect II the Crystal
Palace Company. instead OF stati0ning al over the
building 20 many men. who may be toleraDl! conpe-
tent a. policemen, but Who have no knowledge oil tAe
articles exhibited would select from the various trades
mon versed in the teclnicalties Of each deplrtmen
whose business il should be- TO become posted up u
their particular line TO be able 20 give disHeT1s
id information ard perhaps occa ona lectures on N,
various specimens detailing their latye value, AMI
pointing cut their merits and defects they would rener
the Exhibition q school Of art and manufacture as
well as place OF amusement and recreation lns'ea!
al being mere dumb show. IL would become elii'enrl
by the remarks of wit wisdom. such as the various
objects exhibited are so Well calculated 70 bring iorth
while the interest and usefulness OF the eNhiDU0n
would be very greatly enhanced.
In examining some Of tie most important specimens
Of wo0en manufactures, We have kept IN mnl ne
following points OF tAccAclcc WHICH, "iiAlN-h Ia
lar with the trade, required 70 be understood D.
the unintiated:
/ The good quality Of the wool itself However
much care nav have been taken in the cleansing of the
wool and manufacture OF the a-cr unless N the hrst
instance the wool has been selected with care AMI win
due gard the quality Of the goods required 70 be
produced, after process can remedy rms hrst error
The proper assortment Of tie wool Is lnieGI pncph
secret of success in tie manufacture Of wooden goods
and we recommend this fact 10 the attention OF every
American wOOlen manufacturer.
IL Tie sOftness and hexibIy Of the fabric and free
dom from any unpleasant stiffness and smell arising
from the defective cleansing of the wool IN the hrst IN
stance. Tie cleansing Of the wool from MS orignii
animal oil is an operation in which England at present
far excels America and there is no defect which Is
more importsn, for the American manufacturers to re-
mcdy than this want of thorough cleansing OF the wool IN
the first instance 1t constitutes principal difference
between the productions OF America and England, and
renlcrs the succeeding process Of dying far more diff
cult and uncertain in It's results
III Fastness and durability Of color In this hot
climate especially, fast color is Indispensable as the
excessive Precipitation is otherwise e1ceedagiy la,
BE 10 remove the cooring matter and the heat aud
intense light Of the sunshine very irving 10 me hXed
ness Of o dye Attention to our advice relative 70
cleansing the wool would probably effect all that Is
now desirable in American goods in this respect
" Excellence in shearng. The length of the nap Is
an important consideration in all superfne cloths, ana
if our American manufacturers would make cloth with
a shorter nap they would be able to produce better
results.
V Permanent finish II is most desirable to have
cloth which will look nearly the after SIX months
wear as it did when first made mp In this respect
English goods certainly have at present retained the
highest character For although France and Belgium
may have produced goods which look better IN the
piece and tie high finish aud gloss OF which cannot be
eycelled BIZ tie best est of England manufactures,
81 II for wear and the retention OF all the exceencies
of which il is at first possessed nothing certainly mas
vet been prored superior equal to ne English
goods One important reason for this Durability OF mn
sh 10 be found in the shortness OF the nap because
it must be obvious that cloth with long nap viii be-
come sooner dsanancel by the rain aud dust aud wear
AZ the Joints Of the BODY where the cloth is subject
10 friction, than with short nap But the most
rport ut reason fr the durability Of English cloths -
their runefs Of texture, combined with elasticity ana
plabilty.
VI. Solid,ty or body in the fabric. This element
cannot lie too highly priced ii it be found combined
with the other good qualities we have enumerated
VII Waterdroof There are cloths in which
this quality is desirable II ia property secured
in some instances by the peculiar nature OF the
wool itself The natural oil Of such wool if allowed
10 remain in sufficient quantity, renders 1t lmper-
yous to AL ordinary showers, from its own repeillng
character And. although the fabric is as porous
as any other il ressts the rain without while
it permits that free ventilation and exit for the vapors
of tire BODY essential to health, and the want OF
which is the principal objection to the India rubber
material The same desirable result is Likewise ei-
fectcd by composition where the inherent quaty OF
the wool does not answer this purpose.
VIII Elasticity is likewise an important property
in WOODEN goods Ii cloth. when stretched, continue
in the same position, and does not again contract INTO
its former proportions, il is liable 10 the objection OF
losing us proper shape in wearing For instance, the
elbows of coats and the knees of pantaoon VIII retain
their protrusion when the limbs strait The elastic
nature Of wool Itself which is strengthened when spun,
is principal preseryatye against this detect but there
are some goods better than Others in this respect
TX Superiority of finish and glossy texture
There By large class Of purchasers, viii always be
regarded as the principal elements of good cloth AMI
certa'uly when tlese properties are combined win dn-
rabilty and al the other qualities We have enumera-
ted the climax of perfection in cloth manufacture IL
attained To have a glossy dress suit ii II retsns IT'S
plendor but for party where the object l. To make
an extra appearance 10 win the hand 81 some fair
charner NAV BE- desirable in some cases; and the
French in their ready adaptation every emergency OF
Ills hind have provided cloths Of surprising luster
the durability Of which however, is neither expected
b. The purchaser, nor desired by the trade
y Iiehtness This is most desirable property in
an summer goods intended for the American market
and il is in this respect more than in any other that
the English goods are Objectionable France takes the
lead In lehtness Of fabric and some American manu-
fscturers are successfully following the example The
hest Of wool il essential 10 light cloth # ts TO CON-
bine lie elements Of strength and durability with its
Ialtness Tor ths reason, thin cloth VIII often be
found stronger than thick one.
There are some fahrics 70 which many Of these re-
marks On quality do apply but the better class OF
Goods generally require To be examined with view 70
these claracteristics, and those which present me
greatest number, combined, VIII OF course come ne
nearest 70 our idea Of perfection in cloth manufacture
Teexbii.ion of wooden goods in the Palace although
NOT equal 10 expectations presents many features OF
.rst and tie order Of production is wool in the