New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1853-01-20

, million of dollars. Our horses, TOO, seemed
V feel that ing had been achieved, and
showed such fresh spirit that We locsened the
reins and let them gsllop to theirheart's content
over tie green meadows The mountains were
nov behind us, and the Moorish castle OF eau
Gin crested a peak blue with the distance. over
hills covered with broom and heather 10 DOS
SON, ard through hollows grown With oiean1ef'
arbutus and the mastic shrub, We rode 70 the
cOrk-weod forests of San Rogue, the sporting
ground Of Gibraltar officers. The barking OF
DOGS, the eracking0f whips, ard nov and then a
distant haIoo announced that bunt was IN
procress ard soon we came upon company Of
tLirty or forty hOrseDeD, In caps ~hI'e gloves
and knee boots. scattered along the crest OF a
hill. I had no desire 70 stop ana witness the
snort. for the Mediterranean nov lay before me,
and the huge gray moss Of " The Rock doomed
10 the distance.
Az San Roque, which occupies the summit Of
q eopicaI kill about halfway between Gibraltar
and tlgeciras the landlord left us, and imme-
diately started on his return. Having now ex-
changed the ragged bridle-paths of Ronda for
smooth carriageroad, Jose and dashed on az
fun eallop, 70 the end Of our journey. We
were both bespattered with mud from head 10
FOOT, and our jackets and sombreros had lost some
thing Of their spruce air. We met great
many ruady, clearly shaver Englishmen, who
reined up on one side to let us pass, with look
of wonder at our Andalusian impudence. Moth
ing diverted Jose more than 10 see one OF these
Enelishmen rising in bis stirrups, as he went by
in a trot. LoOk, look, Senior ~ he exclaimed;
did you ever see the like - and then broke
into fresh explosion Of laughter. Passing the
Spanish Lines which stretch across the neck OF
the sandy little peninsula, connecting Gibraltar
with the main land, we rode under the terrible
batteries which snarl at Spain from this side OF
the Rock Row after row of enormous guns bristle
the walls. or look out from the galleries bewn in
the sides OF inaccessible cliffs An artificial moat
in eut along the base of the Rock, but simple
bridQe-road leads into the fortress and town.
After giving up my passport was allowed 70 en-
ter. Jose having already obtained permit from
the Spanish authorities
And now a word as to travelling in Spain,
which is not attended with half the difficulties
and anDOyances bad been led 10 expect. My
experience, of course, is limited TO the provIn-
ses Of Andalusia, but my route included GONE
of the toughest roads and most dangerous rob-
ber-districts in the Peninsula. The people with
whom came in contact were invariably TREND
~ and obliging, and was dealt with much more
honestly than should have been in Italy. With
every disposition TO serve you, there IL nothing
like servility among the Spaniards. The ma.
tive dignity which characterizes their demean-
or, prepossessed me very strongly in their fa-
vor There il but one dialect of courtesy, and
The muleteers and common peasants address
each other with the same grave respect as the
Dons and Grandees. My own guide was a mo
del of good breeding.
j had little trouble either with passport-ofii-
GERS or customhoases. My passport, in fact,
was never once demanded though / took the
precaution TO have il viscd in all the large ci-
ties. In Seville and Malaga il was signed by
the American Consuls without the usual fee OF
42--almost the only instances which have come
70 my observation. The regulations OF the
American Consular System, which gives the
Consuls no salary, but permits them, instead, to
get their pay out of travellers il disgrace to
our Government IL amounts in effect, to a
direct tar on frarei, and falls heavily on the hun
dreds Of young men of limited means, who an
nually visit Europe for the purpose of complct-
ing their course OF education. Every American
citizen who travels in Italy pays passport tax
Of so. In all the ports of the Mediterra-
mean there is an American Vice-COnsul, who does
not even get the postage paid on his despatch
ca, and to whom the advent oil traveller Is OF
course welcome sight. Msled by false no.
ton OF economy, our OONcTninen, IN last beCoiu-
ing proverbial for its meanness. If those of
cur own cl,izens who represent us abroad only
worked as they are paid, and if the foreigners
who act as Vice Consels without pay did not
derive some petty trading advantages from their
p0sition, We should be almost without protec-
ton.
heard some absurd stories, while in London,
Of Americans having narrowly escaped death in
Spain, on account of the excitement in regard
70 Cuba. One person, according TO his own sto
~, only avoided terrible catastrophe by de-
elaring himself an Englishman. did not put
the slightest faith in these accounts, and deter
mined 70 learn whether there was any enmiIy
toward us, by frequently announcing myself an
American, in conyersmg with Spanards The
Cuban difficulties we're alluded To but once, aud
aud then without the slightest luminosity The
speaker, an ultra.royalist, predicted the cstab-
lishment of monarchy III the United States, aud
retorted by predicting republic in Spain
Fords Handbook OF Spain, published by
Murray, IL very correct in it's descriptions and
historical illusions, but rather deficient in prac-
teal information. The author is q confirmed
Jehn Bull, and there is scarcely page in the
book that does not contain some unnecessary
ding at the French. This rampant patriotism,
however, and certain degree of pedantry, viii
be readily pardoned, on account of the great
accuracy Of the work. sr.