Green-Mountain freeman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1844-1884, 1852-08-19
Anrttnlturnl.
Budding or Tnoculating.

The season has now arrived for budding
or lnoculatlng fruit trees, and we wish to
call the attention of those who wish to i'm
prove the time in this way, to the fact.
A series Of cuts or engravings would be
necessary to fully illustrate the process of
budding to those of our young readers who
do not understand it. Budding may be
considered TO consist in planting a bud
taken from one branch or tree into the bark
Of another tree. In order to do this sue
cessfully, you want, in the first place,
good, healthy, thrifty stalk to plant into,
and in the next place, fully developed,
healthy bud to plant and in the next place,
this bud should be so prepared as TO fit ex-
actly into the place prepared for it, SO that
the minute vessels of the one shall match
with those o! the other, and thus by the
union of sap form permanent union of
wood.
AS general rule, you can begin to bud
trees as soon as the bark slips easily, and
the buds to be set are fully developed. Of
course some kinds of fruit, such as cherries
plums, and such like, will require earlier
setting than pears, apples, and fruits Of
that nature.
Any mode by which you fit the bud, after
it has been prepared into the bark of the
stalk, may be adopted, but the usual mode
is to cut into the stalk with a thin, sharp
knife, through the bark, in the form of 7 1,
and turn the corners OF the flaps of the cut
little up and outwards, by inserting thin
blade of wood or ivory under the bark
This should be done easily, aud without
rupturlng or disturbing the alburnum, or
as some call it, SilUer of the wood. You
then find good healthy bud at the foot of
a leaf, cut off the leaf, leaving portion Of
the stem, and with your knife, made very
sharp, cut off the bud by inserting the knife
say half an inch above it. and with smooth
cut downwards separate it from the branch,
with a portion Of the bark and wood at.
tached to it, say an inch in length. The
wood taken off with the bark will be thin
slice, and if it be loose may be removed by
lifting 1t with the point of the knife In
doing this care must be taken not to pull off
the roots or little protuberances of the bud
which are essential to its union with the
top. Having done this, cut off the top of
the bark square across, lift up the bark of
the L cut in the stalk, aud insert the bud
under it, having the square cut of the bark
on the bud match snugly with the top of
the L cut in the stalk.
Press the flaps down, and wind around
carefully, both above and below the bud,
some cotton wickng, wooden yarn, bass
wood bark, or something of the kind, that
shall keep the whole in its place. Don't
brulse or batter any of the parts to be unit
ed, nor suffer them to become dry.
If the bud looks green and plump in a
fortnight after 1t is inserted, it is sign that
it has taken root and will live if it looks
shriyeIed and dry it is failure. In three
or four weeks the bandage may be removed
to prevent its becoming too tight by the
growth of the stalk, aud thus grding the
tree.
After the bud throws out its branch, the
Glowing spring, cut off the stalk two or
three inches above ii, and if it does not
grow up straight it may be tied up to the
stalk loosely, to direct its growth upward,
and after it has fairly got under way, say in
midsummer, the stalk may be cut down
close to the bud, aud the wound will soon
be covered over by a young, healthy bark,
aud perfect union of the bud and stalk be
completed.