New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1852-08-19

the German people, he Fesuiacions are not,
however. altogether ridiculous. some OF them
are de sIrable protection to the traveller against
imposition, as for Instance those respecting the
insurance Of baggage. and can be enforced by him.
Half of them are dead letter. Thus, by regula-
ton, the table is well served and the waters
prompt and clearly. All this proved to be a legal
fiction One old gentleman, after hungrilv waiting
for his soup for more than half an hour grew quite
furious and discharged bis impotence upon the
stewards mate, whom the steward himself then
fell upon with great cultural violence, by way of
appeasIng the passion Of the hungry man. The
latter quite refused TO eat or I've comforted till mid
afternoon, when large glass of beer, skifuliy aP
piled gratis by the steward and accompanied by
further abuse of the waiting boy, washed away his
sense Of wrong and threatened purpose Of nscrib
ing it in the klagebuch. The waiter seemed to
cherish no i'll will toward his hard accusers. He
was fat contented looking boy, and had, fancy,
an understanding with his superior that he was to
be scOlded only for stage effect.
The scenery of the Main offers nothing OF in
terest until after you pass Aschallenburg; from
here onward it is highly picturesque. The river
winds in among hills whose sOping sides are
clothed with vney ards or forests. Numerous
towns and villages lie snuggled in between them
and the stream. Here and there the ruins Of cid
castles or high cliffs of RED sandstone give variety
to the scenery. 1t is less bold and less stored
than that Of the Rhine, but seen under the lights
and shadows of a summer evening, is Of surpas-
sipg beauty. The boat stopped for the night at
Weitheim little town that from it's situation
and the castle that overlooks it, reminds one Of
Heidelberg, with all the differences in favor Of the
latter. AS the boat was to renew its voyage at
four O'Clock next morning, and my latter slumbers
had been abbreviated by some two hours that morn
ing, vent to bed directly after suppsr-unfor
tunately cannot say that | retired. That is
net among the possibilities at many, otherwise
good German hotels. Hence my sorrows at
Wtitheim. All the singing of a musical society
that was holding its in another part OF the
house-all the slamming Of doors in the hall,
which were I a very restless state that evening
oil the coughing OF my cOnsumptive right-haDd
neghbOr, in No. 20, and the wheeZy breathing of
my left hand Deighbor in No. IL, came through the
loosely fitting door and the thin partition, straight
way TO my yexed ears. Toward midnight the
ma-wagon clattered past under my window,
which walked the housed who set up bark
ing, that set another dog TO barking, whe was
Pile to by another in the distance who-etc., ETC.,
0d iljfHitun, as 1t seemed b the nov morbid
sense of hearing. lighted the candle and tried to
compose myself by reading Mr. BodekeT's de-
scrption Of Wethem, which begins with com.
mendation o; this very hotel, and then the night
Waterman chanted out his warning:
Ihr Herren lasst euch sager,
Die & Ock hat zWOf eeschlagen.
BewahIet Feuer und LIGHT
Dauit klein Schade gescheht,
down the street. So much for lodging under
prncely roof, for the nu belongs TO the Prince
Won L6wensieiD. Freutenberg. OF course, you
will understand that his lIighness "keeps tavern"
yicariously.
Renewing our voyage at four O'Clock next morn
ing, we pulled slowly up the stream, passing
vessels laden with coal, ano other products OF Bel
GUM and the Rhine County, that were tOwed by
horses after the manner of our canal boats ard
meeting RATS of lumber floating down to restore
the balance of trade. In the afternoon we reached
WurZburg a city at the head Of steam.naylgat
on the Main, and note worthy for this that out OF
all its q 900 inhabitants, but one, so far as saw,
has devoted himself 10 baggage-snashing as pro-
fessOn. II only after waiting some tlmeOn the
hot quay that | was able to secure for my trunk
the services of a ragged amateur. WurZburg is
one of the Oldest cities in Germany and figures
largely in its history. For one thousand years it
and the surrounding country were ruled over by
series of eighty-twO Bishops. Many Of their
images in has relief and duly labelled with sanity
virtues are on the walls of the great Cathedral.
Few Of them are worth looking at unless one has
an antiquarian passion for post. mortem examin-
alton. Here, too, lies buried Walter Won der
Vogelweide, the most famed of German Wines
anger. The yuls ear notion that this chef Of love-
singers was merely an erotic pOet--a Teutonic
Tom. Moore--is corrected by an inscription on
his monument that represents him to have sung,
rather, Love Of the fatherland.
sgreeabIe-especally not, If the travelling COM
paDion on the opposite seat, with whom you must
dove. tail knees will indulge in sausage on the
route. A pair Of spots on my neither rament are
souvenirs OF that greasy viaticum, with which he
frequently comforted himself through the watches
Of the night.
The fist thing that the stranger goes 10 see at
Bamberg is its venerable Cathedral. 1t has hard
~ 81 equal in Germany a perfect specimen of
what is here called the TOUHd .Grcked Stgi,
transition from between Classic and Gothic archI-
lecture 1t was bult by pious Kaiser Henry Ill.
and his wife kuni gunde, In the beginning OF the
eleventh century. A few wears ago. the not pous
but art LOVING King Louis Of Bavaria removed all
the disfgmements that had gathered about it in
the course Of ages, renovated il within and with
out, that il is nov, from crypt to spIre, exactly
as in it's original state. Afer the sacristau had
attended upon us for an hour, giving needldl in
formation as - the objects OF interest that drew
our attention he led us 10 Q side room where was
q small cabinet of relics HIS faVorites Of all were
evidently the two haT-cOmbs of the late Empress
Kungunde. lie told us they were SUCH with
that confidence as If he were her malestys sur
yiving barber and with a solemnity of minner be-
coming the gravity OF the testimony; but he
laughed when he told how English traveller
last year tried % buy these holy COMBS, Offering
their weight in GOLD In exchange. The price by
the way, was u very handsome one in itself, for
they are massive pieces OF WOry, nearly an inch
through in the thicker parts. W hen We returned
into the church, niue priests, mostly robust men,
were TecitIns a service 10 an audience OF one old
womau. IL was lauentabe TO see such large
clerical power all running TO waste.
Near the Cathedral is the some time Episcopal
palace, whichn the autumn Of 1906 Napole
ons headquarters, whence be issued his decara
tion of war against Prussia. An upper window on
the east side Of the palace is pointed out, from
which Marshal Berthler fell in 1915. Ny chance
companion, who rs Prussian, says that the Mar
shall was watching the movements of the enemy
from this window. an dashed himself headlong
" hen he saw them crossing the Main.
In little town 90 a bill overlooking the city Is
the chamber where +. T. A. II ,fman wrote his
Pbahaasieusfuctei. The unpaTdona-
bic vandalism of its preseason has obliterated all
the fantastic sketches with which that halfmad
genius bad covered its walls.