New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1852-10-26
Iyr.
KrUTAHYA-THE RUINS or GZAYI AND THE
VALLEY OF THE RHYNDACUS-THE MysIAN
OLYMPUS.
Ea.nr..I co-r,.ro-i.nca q II. Y. L ~.
rpouaence che W. Ids4n,

On entering kiutahya. We passed the bar
rneks which were the residence Of Kossuih and his
companions in exile. Beyond them We came to
broad street down which flowed the viest stream OF
filth Of which even Turkish city could boast The
houses on either side were two stories high the upper
rar Of wood with hanging balconies over which sho:
the caves Of the tiled roofs The welcome cannon had
ust sounded and most the streets through which
raised were entirely deserted. tic inhabitants beinga
dinner. Il had 4 weird uncomfortable efec; TO ride
through streets where the chatter OF horses hoots
was the only sound oflfe At last reached the en-
trunce TO bazaar, and near it kahn-a new kahn
very neatly built and with spare much better
than We expected that we congratulated ourselves
heartily We unrackod in hurry and Francois ran
CT to the bazrar from which hc speedily returned with
some roast kid cucumbers aid cherries We lighted
two lamps borrowed the ode-bashi's narghleh and
we drank petrioc toast Gor it the FOURTH in
fnisus of excellent coffee But in the midst of our
joyment happening to cast my eye on the walls Jaw
sight that turned all our honey into gall Scores on
scorses-nay, hundreds on hundrcis-of enormous
bed bugs swaImed the plaster and were already de-
scendng TO our beds and baggage To sleep there
impossible, but we succeeded in getting possession Of
one Of the outside balconies where slept soundly but
was awakened toward morning by two tremendous
caps Of thunder, echoing in the gorge.
spent two or three hours next morning in taking
a survey of Kiutlhys. The town is much larger than
lad supposed should judseit 70 contain from hlty
70 sixty thousand inhabitants The situation il remark
able md gives picturesque eject 10 the place when
seen from above which makes one forget It's internal
filth It is built in the mouth Of gorge. and around
the bases OF The hills on either side The lofty noun
tains which rise behind it supply ii with perpetual
springs Of pure water At every dozen steps you come
upon fountain and every srge street he's brook in
the center The houses all two and many Of them
three stories high With hanging balconies, which re-
minded nc much Of Switzerland. The bazaars are
very extensive covering al the base OF the hill on
which Glands the ancient citadel The goods displayed
were mostly European cotton fabrics, quincailere
loot and slppers ppesticks and silks In the parts
devoted TO tie proGuce Of the country, saw very fine
chcIie cucumbeIs and lettuce, and bundles Of mngni
fcont clover three to four feet high
We climbed q steep pe;h TO The citadel which covers
the summit of abrupt, isolated hill connected by
shoulder with the great range The walls are nearlya
mile IN circuit consisting almost wholly Of immense
ca clar burssscs, placed near each other that they
almost touch. The connecting walls are broken down
on the northern side so that from below the butrcsses
have the aIpearancc Of enormous shattered columns.
They arc bull; OF rough toEei with regular layers Of
fat burnt bricks On the highest part OF the hill stands
the fortress, stronghold, a place which must have
been almost impregnable before the invention OF
non Tic structure probably dates from the ninth or
tenth century, but is built the foundations OF more
ancient edihoes. The old Greek City Of Coymum
(whoroe KiuRhyo) probably stood upon this hill. With
IN lie citadel is IN upper town containing about hun
dred housos the residence apparently, OF poor families
From tie circuit OF the WALL every side, tn re
grad views the plain the city, and the gorges Of
the mountains behind. The valley Of the Pursek fresh
onod by tic lat nights shower spread out sheet of
vivid green, to the pine-covered mountains which
BOUNDED all sides Around the city /. was adorned
vrh govcs md gardens, and in the direction Of BrOusa
wife roads went winding away ether gardens and vii
LACE in distance Ihemountan OF Phrygia through
which we had pa sed, were the loftes in the circle
that enco,ed the valley. The city feet presented
ahick array OF redtod roofs, out Of which here
ard there The taper shaft of mnaret or the dome OF
mosque bath From the southern side Of the citadel,
We Looked down into the gorge which supplies Kiuta
hya viii waer-a wild, desert landscape OF white crags
and shattered peaks of cray rock hanging over a
Tow, winc.ng bed CT the ercencst foliage.
lEseed OF taking the direct road to Brousa, made
d,;our Of days, in order to visit the ruins OF the
old Greek city OF EzaEi which arc thirty-six miles
south o Kiuohya. Leaving at noon, we ascended the
gorge behind the city by delightfully."- embowered
PATH, through wild thickeis OF willow, hazel, prvet
and other shrubs tangled together with the odorous
wli,C houeysuckle Near the city, the mountain sides
were bare white masses Of gyp and other rock, in
many places with the purcst chrome-yclow hue; but
advanced they clothed the summit with
copsewood. After passing the summit ridge probably
5000 feet above the sea we upon wooded, billy
rocion stretching away in long, misty lines TO Murad
D a. whose head was ported with snow. There were
pitches Ct wheat End rye in The Aoows but no sign of
Laticron, and we encamped in lonely meadow.
IhrCe houIs travel next morning brought us 10 the
Valley OF the hhyadacus-G plain ten or twelve miles
in diameter and well cultivated Several villages e. ch
outowerod in gardens, scattered along the bases
o. the hills tLsi ineloseit We took the wrong road.
BIZ, sct Alright by herdsnan and after threading
lane between thriving gain delis were cheered by
the sight OF tie Temple Of Ezani lifted on is acropois
above the orchards Of Chavdar and indng out sharp
aid clear against he purple Of the hills
CuraIrroach the village marked by the blocks
Of scupuIed marble that lined The way elegant mould
ines oorrioos and entabatures thrown together with
common stone, to make walls between the fields Tie
village is bulk both sides Of the RhyndAcus and en-
lN-h4tA
and beating eIy few Of The remains Of the old city in
lie conn osion. This, lsuppose owing to the great
fi4c Of tie hoWn blocks especially OF the pillars cor
nces ana enabatures nearly all Of which are from -
to Is feet long from tie ,ize and number Of these
scattered blocks rather tan from the buildings which
an Partially exist that obtains an idea Of the size
AID sIlerdor Of the ancient Rzan The place is filed
with fragments, especially OF columns, OF which there
se several bundled nearly all finely autcd The Rhyn-
d6cus IL still 'pslned by ancient bridge OF three
'rches, AID both banks lined with piers of hern
stone. Tai Ioplars and msssy walnu,s Of the richest
green SHADE tie clear waters and there are many pic
turescue combinations Of foliage and ruin-death and
he-whoh would charm painters eye Near the
bridge we stepped TO examine Pile OF immense frsg.
reuis which lave tcen thrown together By the Turks
Itrs cornces, al;aIs, pieces Of frieze with bulls
heads louLd tose'Ler by hanging gsrends and large
square Lick, with egile tablet 1t re,ernbled an