Weekly national intelligencer. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1841-1869, 1852-05-29

around US and the snowcap heights Of Debe esh shek
gmmering in the distance The sharp cry of jackall
from the ravine the other side of the stream had wild
and startling effect in the stiffness of the night and the
strange stories of Eeas and the mueeers about robberes
and murders in these lonesome gens made nyolunta
ry look towards every thicket the roadside 1t
not agreeable dea take it altogether that of having
ourlegs cut done with traveller skulls
battered in with clubs, another served not long
before or even to be politely requested to give up
money, and compelled to make the rest of tour
charity Yusefhad taken with him all the guns pistols,
and swords than that all the propensity for
fighting that was in the party We might have fought
but believe preferred not fighting For my part
had made up my mind, if attacked by the robbers to
offer them my old coat two Shirts toothbrush small
pocket comb, sketches of Baalbek and few short
hand notes from which these letters are written together
with draft my friend the Southerner who kindly
paying my way to Alexandria, where expected remit
lance Ihad likewise about me small paper money,
amounting to twenty kreutzers sixteen cents payable
in Austria in the Of forty fifty years letter Of
introduction to the Pasha Of Egypt two Sediz powders,
and pocket-compass which, together with an expired
commission third lieutenant in the revenue service
intended delivering the chief of the robbers sooner than
any thing else about my person in my knapsack that
he might find useful Fortunately, however for your
readers and myself met robbers or if we did, they
terribly afraid of us that they passed on without
shooting. M
We came into the beautiful and fertile neighbor-
hood of Zebdene Signs Of civilization such as we had
not seen since leaving Beirut began to appear both
sides Of the road. Every thing quite reminded us of
home The road was bIbad and plain and the gardens
were well hedged with bushes. Rustic gateways cover
ed with running roses peeped out from cumps Of
the gurgng of springs and the soft echo of distant voices
made pleasant music in the night air. and as we rode
along under the shade of oyerhangng trees and looked
through the ystas of foliage each side the running
vines hanging in fesoons through the vineyards and the
groves Of fig trees and olives lit up with glow Of
moonlight and wildly brought to mind first impress
sons ofthe beauties Of Eden As entered the village
it was pleasant variety to find of that shadowess
and parched appearance about it that characterized all
the villages had before The houses were half
hidden among trees, with little green patches Of ground
about hem and though rudey constructed of mud and
stone, like dive had seen yet they evidently larger
and more commodious We rode some distance looking
around us for Yusef starting up sleepy dogs and exc
ing the wonder Of the natives in search, calling
Yusef Yusef! went but it was not until we had
made his appearance Alas grieve to tell it his face
very red and he staggered good DEAL and labored
under difficulty in getting out his words Short
it quite plain he had been drinking arrack-a thing
that he did little too efen for our satisfaction Come
dis way genelmen," said he, I'm got you very good
house My niece live hereshe gone down to Damascus
now but her husband very good man. Here another
of Yusefs neces was not sorry to hear that she
to Damascus for somehow Yusef always wanted to
delay us when his nieces at home The house was
very nice and comfortableone of the best had
IN our travels it situated in enclosure fenced in
BY high hedges, with rustic gateway in front covered
with rose bushes and had altogether rural and pictur
ssque effect in the moonlight The Arabs sitting about
he door smoking their chbouk and the mules standing
lnder the bushes with their packs while the muleteers
ran about shouting at great rate and doing great deal
Of work that amounted to nothing all that reminded
US that in a foreign land Without them we
might readily have fancied that we were in quiet little
country village at home.
The husband of Yusefs niece received us with great
kindness and hospitality. good fire blazing in the
,orner which he spread mats for u.s. and while we
enjoying the cheerful glow of the fire. he brought us
coffee and pipes. Here let tell you that you who take
your at home don't know the luxury of coffee and
obacco Syria in the month of December is the place to
ind it out You get up in the morning after suffering all
he tortures vermin infict during the night eat
TASTY breakfast and off before sunrise For six hours
ysu climb scraggy mountains and descend horrible prec
,ces, and then sit down rock by the road side or
ruined Khan, to eat chicken and leather
read then the same riding is repeated till night when
feel if piece of horse wellcooked dog would
q positive luxury. While you are warming yourself
the cheerful blaze Of the fire. hot coffee appears If
magc-the very thing to brace up the system for din
Ter, which comes in about hour Now, blessed be the
that invented coffee 1t goes down with such relish
fer all the troubles of the day; warming the throat
ending thrill Of delight into the stomach filing body
nd soul with joy and inspiring proper appreciation Of
he chibouk and Djebel tobacco All these delights we
njoyed at Zebdene and very grateful and happy we felt
hat night in spite Of the preudises Of the untraveed
,ebdene as bright spot in pilgrimage through Syria
n the month Of May it must be one of the most charm
ng places imaginable.
Having spare hour next morning, while the mules
sec being loaded, walked out to the village by
ayght, and were quite enchanted with the fresh and
erdant hedges Of wild rose the rustic gateways (which
eened to be the ruling passion of the Zebdenes the
omp Of groves the garnure Of fields and all that the
eaial ray Of morning glds" On return TO the
ouse the horses and mules were ready, and rode off
ncry towards Damascus Clouds began to gather upon
he mountains, passed out Of the shaded Of
he village into the open plain and il not long before
heavy rain swept down upon us, accompanied by q
trong cold wind that very piercing Three hours
Zebdene to the river Berada another small
tream running between high and prccpitous rocks of
ery marked geological character Parts Of the