The republic. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1849-1853, 1852-05-10
a CHAPTER ON MEDocs, OR CLARET
WINES.

some queries about the wine Of .'Chateau Mar
gaux. The answers which you expect me TO give
Will be, suppose, for the information of friends
whom can imagine to have been led to the sub
ject over a bottle of "Chateau Lariveaux;" which,
though II does not aspire to the rank of Chateau
Mergaux,' is, nevertheless, a pure wine, and
adapted 10 give you correct impression Of true
"4Mdoc -
Before speak particularly Of the wine of "Cha-
teau Margaux," permit me TO offer q few general
remarks about "Clarets F"
"Ciarsf'' is a name not used in France nor is il
ever applied TO the wines which here desi gnate
by that name. The generic name Of all Clarets
ID "MEpoc." This is the name of the district
where all these famous wines are grown, and
where wines better Chased, according to their
growth and quality, than in any other wine grow
ing country. The district of Medoc belongs 10 the
arrondissement OF Bordeaux, department of the
Gironde, IN the southwest of France. Ii s formed
of ancie ut Guienne, and bounded north by the de.
parinent Chartnte Infeyieue; 10 the south by the
sandy district of the Ldndes; on the east by the
department OF the Dordogne and the Lotet. Ga
ronnt; and on the west by the Atlantic ocean. The
most important part Of the district is that which
lice on the left OF the rivers Dordogne and Ga
rome, below Bordeaux. These two rivers unite at
BoWg, and form the Gironde, which, with the Dor
dogne and Garonne, traverses the whole district in
n northwest DIRECTION.
Ii lie on the slopes of this left bank, descending
the river from Bordeaux, that find the various
villages OF Ludon, Cdntfnac, Nargaur, Bfcherslie,
~. Julien, Pauiilde ~. Estephe, and others, which
have given names to The various wines OF their
spective communes.
few words about the qualities, or " classifca-
ton F" OF the wines of a. Medoc." This classical
ton hiss been long established by usage on the most
sacred basis; for. although there be those who
think that HIS height wine, which is placed in
the rank OF second quality Is entitled only that
oil thirde stll the names well established by
means oil the classification, that no true Medoc
wine can be passed of second class which is be-
low It. They are. besides, each so we'll known by
their respective characters and flavor, that have
seen an experienced judge enter the large cellars
at bordeaux, where the wine ia in charge Of the
professional wine coopers" on sale, and, indis,
criminately tapping the casks, would name the
plantation or vineyard il was from, soon seen
and tasted. "a each class or quality (cr.) Of wine
there are, however, differences OF opinion as 70
their meris. although there are many under the
one general head Of fret, second, third, fourth or
fifth ass.
the boa bourgeois or icin.s NOT mired. Then
come the Nins-ordinaires," which are usually
the most inferior wines Of the district; Of feeble
charseier OF quality, and mixed With common red
wine o. heavier body, from the adjoining districts,
and often spirits added 10 give them force and
keeping qualities for shipment.
The Win ordinaire" IL such is usually sold
IN this country in hogsheads, at twenty TO some.
ttmes thirty dolars bogshead, or two or three
collars dozen, and nsrtr "a pure llfed0c. Al
the wines that are classed are pure. Not unfrc.
qutnily, however, some hous.s burgundy certain
oil their Medocs; which H. 10 add 70 the lighter
r o
or BODY. This docs no injury; on the contrary,
come prsfu certain wines treated thus. A lover Of
the beet grades 81 Medoc would not.
Of the Medoc wines of the 'sfrst class there are
6utJow. The order Of them 10 az follors: ''Cha
hdn- hDgauJ. in the commune Of Margaux;
. Chafsoa LATTE" in the commune Of Pauillar;
"Ihateda. Laiou," in the same commune; and
'Haut- Brion, !" in Pesslc. The stcond class wines
number abou. eleven sorts, or vineyards. The beet
OF these is thought 20 be the wines Of Chateau Cos
IN st Estcphc, which IL n wine of rcmar able body
color, and bouquet. This is the wine which the
late Doninick Lynch cold % much OF in the United
States ne "Chatoau MargauS," and which made
his name - renowned as an importer Of fine Claret
This statement make on the authority Of Mr.. Der.
toufnel, Of Bordeaux, the proprietor Of the vine
yard OF Zoe" who assured me Of tie truthfulncss
know Of no wine among Mcdocs that may be
90 safely adopted IN lieu Of the Grs,-class wines by
those who desire 20 economist, ss the Goa" Of Mr..
DcsiOurncl, who IL, Decides being a producer, the
vendcr 81 his own wines in Bordeaux.
The sccond-e lass best wines seldom sell much
below vince 81 the fret class.
The "itird-cisss'' wines number about fifteen,
and sell az about three hundred francs a ton (oi
four hogahesds) less than the second. ! speak Of
rintya,d Jricfs. The "fourih class" number about
seventeen, and cell about three hundred francs be-
Low The third. y Some Of the f0urth-olass wines
arc 'Mwg0tu" wines, q. grow and produced
ia the Commune Of Margau1;D but are not 20 be
coni9lnded with the vince Of the farm or vineyard
oil " CHATEAU MargaaaI" Then comea the "hnh.
oiaes wines, numbering slrnc twenty odd none
Portant product Of ten or twelve tons a year
There IL usually about four thousand tons l. e.
sixteen tJoosan nd casks, or about million Of gal.
Ions annually, produced Of he classified ,r.nes o.
Mcdoc The beet are not very abundant, and
therefore The total estimate should put 10 about
seven hundred and fifty tlousand gallons. Aner
the nth class wines the Bon bourgeois" in
which rank may be placed nearly all the good
winos Of -: Esepbc, Pauillac, and 81. Julien, rOi
na1ed IN he flee oiassts; also some good vineyards
OF So1ssdns, I,abOrce. Lvdon, and Macau. and a
lev small proprIetarios Of MargGur and Ca,,teaac
After these come the small properties of pa,uflac
and ~ Esfqde, some large vineyards u Cis,ac.
~ SduretU, Ldn0r9ae, &c alec, the Paysans IL
margaux, tontensc, -. Julien, md Pauilsc, which
eel from five 70 seven hundred francs a ton.
10 fact, the small "A yIncrs in the celebrated com
nOnes often make very good wine, and readily
obtain iyr II Of the BOroeavx merchant three hun
dr.d u iopr hundred francs ton Of four casks.
Ihefe = belonging 70 small proprietors some
vince in the midst Of those whicl, belong 10 tho
S'sssed qualities, bat they arc destitute Of that
DOuq1et slgor, and aroma, which gives val0e TO
the chased wines
After th.s long story, ] mus, conclude with ZONE
more particular remarks about the wine Of 'tCgA.
IgAU MhESAUx," which seems more ~ Inc
object Of your inquiry.
The commune II margauS Of which the name il
20 celebrated, is bordercd the north by SONS
cans, south by Cantenac, wcst by AveDsau aud
cast by the river Gironde
Tho earth is grayclly and filled with pebides
ln this commune IL he famous frst-clsss wine
tpremief ofu) Of " Chateau Mavgd1 " The annual
product u this vineyard is about twenty five thou
tand gallous; Of which about nineteen thousand
arc vine " bret quality, and the remainder
"soconds. This wine is remarkable for its fine
qoaiues, iis beautiful color and bouquet. II has
iorce without being spirituous; il giyes vieor 10
the stomach while prospects the head; and Il leaves
che breath pure and mouth fresh lie repu,a.
tion Is European. IL is much sought after in Enp.
land, where II enjoys a marked preference and
oomm1uds always high price.
Since 1874 the entire crop Of the VINEYARD ~
Chateau Msrgaux" has been contracted for by
i've houses IN Bordeaux, for nine years, from 1874
nj the price Of two thousand one hundred france
the ton, (of Tour casks Of about sixty gallons
eacb) This includes all the wine, embracing muc h
that is stcopd quality. SO that whilst this is not
two dollars gallon for IL, at the vineyard where
grown, tie first quality must become much en-