The Davenport gazette. [volume] (Davenport, Scott Co., Iowa) 1841-185?, 1852-03-18
JERUSALEM, PALESTINE AND SYRIA.
By DIR. j. v. c. SMITH.

Jerusalem 10 tOIerably clean-Irom lts
location on steep side hiIl, and not be-
cause the inhabitants are disposed to keep
iit in good condition. Filth appertains 10
Arabs wherever thoy are. Deep cisterns
abound, cut into the solid rock, in which
rain wnter is carefully collected, which is
used for all domestic purposes. Water
lcarrers bring some in skins on donkeys
from The pool Of Sloan, but few only are
able or desirous Of supply without the
walls. A fine stream is conducted to the
lefty from Bethlehem, winding about the
mountains, which is exclusively devoted
10 the purposes of the celebrated mosque Of
Omar, on the very spot once occupied by
the temple Of Solomon.
| Wood for fuel is always dear, being sold
by weight, and is priacipgl'y roots Of olive
trees brought from distance on camels.--
II trees were planted ns suggested in this
communication, fuel would be abundant
and reasonable. No house has fireplace
or chimney. A little charcoal n copper
ldish, placed in the centre Of the room, is
the extent ofan attempt at social fire.
Al Bishop Gobat's and one other house,
stoves were noticed At DR.. Spaulding's
missionary room al Damascus, regular
Boston stove diffused comfort that could
no where else be found in the town,
Old rs Palestine is, as the residence Of
civilized man, there is not one decent road,
five miles long, in the whole territory
Paths arc struck out where there are the
fewest stones or tho least mud, over any
ones field, and through any ones prens-
es the rider chooses TO go. IL llerod the
Great, whose passion for building magnif.
cent cities was equal to Abba Pasha's 10
Egypt for creating palaces, had made five
miles Of good road from Jerusalem to Jafa,
hewouId have conferred blessing on his
abused and degraded country. have
roamed over the stupenaous ruins which
mark tho ambition Of that energetic but
wicked wretch, with feelings that were
never called into activity in stepping from
one fallen column 10 another in any pro-
vince. With all bis determined ambition
to leave enduring monuments in granite
that world withstand The assaults of the
elements or the destructive agencies Of
conauerors in after years. tho besom OF
destruction has swept them all, all away,
and CHsarea, the ma agniicent capital OF Ju
dea, has NOT one human being within iii
boundaries.
The only living thing in sight, wher,
there were the finest specimens Of nrchi
tectnre--paaccs beyond palaces, md mar
bic, aud an exhibition of wealth and refine
ment, while he was in the meridian Of his
g!ory-wns one solitary horse, feedine
among crushed fragments Of sculp,uree
stone, rs passed over the lonely site Of ;
once grand and beautiful residence O
splendid court. as
i From The days of the Jebusiies, whose
capital was tho present rock on which Je
ru.alem stands, cverv successive people
who have had possession Of Palestine have
fixed their habiiations on the very pima
cles Of tho mountains. Every town ano
village, therefore, il up somew here NJ
one resides in valley. From some bill
tops the spectator has an admirable view
Of many distant places thst appear quite
near; but to reach any Of them he musi
descend mile or so, and cross horrible
ravine or yawning gorge, and subsequent
" wind up and onward like the gyrations
Of cork-screw, for ten or twenty hours, to
get at the proposed settlement. Miles are
unheard Of things in Palestine. Ever,
body speaks OF hours who designs move
ment. Il is seven hours TO one place, fol
Example, two 10 somewhere else, and forty
TO another.
The making of jaunt through the Iio-
ly Land ofSyria is an expensive affair, in
deed. There must be pack mules for car
rying beds, food, and all that may be re-
quired from day TO day. Three persons
could not Go well without two; and there
must be cock, muleteer, dragoman,
who does all your talking and answers all
your questions, for the Arabic is difficult to
acquire. and without an interpreter, it is
impossible to know where you are, or what
you see. Finally, each rider is mounted
on horse, who is followed by groom, and
he must have mule to carry the proven
der. All this makes kind Of Caravans
long string of animals, slowly winding up
and down the horrible trnils Of the land,
sIUplC HSs ut tuC IuhC VI wv VI thaCC "i'So
only an hour. %
In the course ofthe day, many places OF
peculiar interest, mentioned in the Old
Testament, are distinctly seen, which are
not approached. When stood at Bethel.
Ramah was in full sight, and the mosque
over the tomb Of Samuel, the prophet
Both Horan the Upper, and Gibeon also,
where Joshua took position when he said,
"Sun stand thou still upon Gideon, and
thou Moon, in the valley Of AjaIon." and
other localities of immense interest 10 the
biblical scholar and sacred geographcr.--
At night, il is necessary TO seek a stopping
place in village for security. Beyond q
town or hamlet there is not single hab
itation.
All lodge in the same apartment, on the
ground on your own beds, surrounded by
armies of insects eager for your blood
Poor things, IL il were not for strangers,
fleas would soon be extinct, for they seem
TO despise sn Arab, who sleeps sound in
defiance Of their nippers. Horses, cows.
camels, goats, dogs, and the family, are
not unfrequently congregated in one room.
The night before reaching Damascus, we
suffered exceedingly on account Of the
multitude Of lodgers in one room-lor the