The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1852-09-30
1853


thev-odd wild extravaganza and ludicrous--
yet now and then sparkling with fine fancy,
or a rare poetic thought, and in their drolcry
quaint and quiet never coarse or common.
But should get on slowly indeed with the
story Of my tour if | paused to do justice,
either by description or quotation to the orr
glnality of character the spirit and humor,
the warmth and generousness Of feeling. of
many of the Irish peasantry with whom came
in contact
The mountain road from Glengariff to Kill
larney is a splendid specimen Of engineering
and leads through scenery wild and beautiful
in the extreme On the sunny morning of our
leaving Glengarifi, landscape and air were
fresh and delicious after the nights abundant
rain, and with thrills and palpitatons of mex
preside Joy my heart responded to the glad
ness of Nature | shall never forget the child
ish ecstasy of delight with which | gazed
around me and drank in the fragrant air OF
the morning
The three lakes Of Killarney descended upon
by this road are likely to disappoint the tour
ist especially if he be an American. more es-
Uecally if he be Il reader Of and a devOut be-
lever in Mrs Halls beautiful and most p0eficdI
book 4 Week at kHharneL' In truth, such
name of lakes at first but they grow ON your
respect rapidly rs YOU approach; their beauty
is, near or afar quite exquisite and undenia
bic, and the mountains which surround them
are really most respectable elevations Our
first visit was to the Tore Waterfall by far the
most beautiful cascade have ever seen The
fall is between sixty and seventy feet the glen
into which the water comes leaping and foam
4ft,e nd Loo .Lyty
hung with richest foliage The approach Ia
this waterfall is singularly picturesque, and
the surroundings in admirable keeping
We passed Lord Kcnmarc's noble demesne,
and drove through the village of Killarney. to
our hotel the " Jldo2o." which is charmingly
situated on the shore of the lower and larger
lake. We found the house crowded with visit
ers of all characters and dcgrees-the elegant
and the Vulgar, the coarse and the refined
with the usual number Of undesirable and un-
clasSahlc bctweenities While taking tea in
the cohecroOm we were struck by the mien
and manner Of traveller near us. He was
evidently person oppressed with II conscious
ness of his own consequence and bent on hay
ing the world do its part toward bearing his
burden He gave out his orders to the won.
dering waiter with Il military stcrnncss and
ended each sentence with Il sort of drawl He
was clad in "a complete suit of checked Tweed
with an eXtrayagant crayat-a John Bull, with
out doubt, yet black ,brOwed and iull-bcarded-
Il curious cross between Cockney and Cos
sack, After tea this unique individual swag-
gered up to one Of our party, II most gentle
mani -looking person, and accostcd him rs he
was passing down the hall, with Pray, are
you one of the walters Of this hotel! No
are you cooly responded our friend.
In the morning, We were 10 fortunate rs to
be able to engage for our guide during our
stay, the Stephen SpIlane 80 honOrably men
toned by Mr.. and Mrs Hall. We found him
a young man of good education much gene
raj intelligence gentleness, and even refine
ment Of manner
Our first expedition was to the Gap of Dun
Toe, IA wild and gloomy mountain pass espe-
cially interesting to the reader of Gerod Crit
fms fine novel of THE CoHegianS.' as the
scene of poor Eily Connor's happy honey moon,
and tragic taking-of Our guide furnished
myself and pleasant English friend with pc
remainder of the party took car
Though toIerably well mounted and able |
to abruptly cut the company OF the DID, Grip
Piled, and blind of the begging fraternity, !
found that ! had small advantage over the
boys The hect-foOted little rascas kept up
with me for milestone juvenile Celt literally
sans CHi0tfeS but in II shirt of elder brotherIy
dimensions, giving me a sort Of Tam o Shantcr
chase pretty dark eyed boy running by
my side, held up "A bunch of purple heather
md wild hOneysuckle saying, with an insinu-
lting smile Phase, my lady buy these Elegant
bright flowers, so like yer honor's SELF this
beautiful summer morning What woman
could resist such IN appeal
At the entrance of the Gap we were met by
detachment of volunteer guides, and a com
,any OF mountain dew girls--maidens with
ans of goats milk and TASKS of "potheen,"
With which they are happy to treat the trav-
Her, for consideration. After listening to
ome grand echoes, called forth by the rich
)uglc-nOtes Of our guide, we proceeded through |
he pass This by itself did not equal our ex-
its finest feature is the Purple
which in the glorious sunlight of
hat morning was beautiful beyond concep-
ion.
From Lord Brandon fine demesne we en-
,arked upon the upper lake, rOwed among its
airy islands and ran down the long range
o the middle lake-pausng for little gossip |
With the echoes of Eagle Nest, and shooting |
Old Wer Bridge on our way. The bay
md mountain of elena are the gems of Kill |
arney Even now, looking back upon the
Gene through the sobered light of recollection
/ is all enchantment--th shore gorgeous with |
magnificent foliage. the waters flashing with |
liver CLEANS, the sky golden with sunset
ight-and it il difficult for me TO believe that
here is under the broad heaven II loveler
pot Even the echoes from this beautiful
,reen mountain seemed clearer, yet softer and
more melodious, than any we had heard be-
ore.
We took dinner on shore. in a delicious little |
look Swallowed by arbutus trees, dining of IL
arge rock some seated Ia Turc, some recli- |
ing ia the ancient Oriental style. Oh we
lad merry times and what with toasts and
Ongs, and legends, and Joyous laughter ring |
ng out. peal on peal over the still water, the |
sonder is we failed to rouse the great O Dona
hue, who, according to popular tradition,
wells in princely palace under the lake, |
nd only comes to the surface to take an air
NJ ON horseback, every May morning. Our
ow homeward, through the soft lingering sun
et-light with the plash and murmur Of the
Dlue waves, rising with the rising wind, heard
n the intervals between the sweet songs OF our
,uide was fitting close to day of shadow
esq pleasure
In the coffee room We encountered our black
'eafded tourist quite knocked up,p he
verred, by the duties of the day. He had
ctually done the ascent of old Carran
'ual, twice-once 0n his own account and
nee most amable of his sex for friend
That evening, we listened to the fine music
Gandsey, the celebrated Irish piper, truly |
enerable man very old, and quite blind, who
lays his native melodies with touching ex-
ression, waking the old sorrows of Ireland
nd making them wall again, and giving proud
Dicc to her ancient glories till you believe
rat her lost nationality lis not dead, but
eepetl, and must yet rise to free and power
ii life.
On the following morning, with our pleasant
riend Sir Thomas Deane we visited MuckrOss