The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1852-07-29
NO. 291.
lcoPYRIGHT SECURED.
GREENWOOD LEAVES FROM OVER THE SEA.
No. g.
EDGBAsToN, BIRMINGHAM,

june 20, loO<
MY DEAR l.: To you. who have not yet
rassed through the Byronic dispensation, | can
ads 6ttincly as willingly address the account Of
NV pilgrimage to Newstead Abbey But first
I must tell YOU of the visit to Nottingham Castle
and Lincoln Cathedral Friend Joseph Surge
indy accompanied me, though his peculiar
enthlsasms are not precisely feudal, baronial,
or castelated nor has he any particular liking
G,r the "high places of the church. We went
FIRST 10 Nottingham, where we were met by
some friends, who drove round the town with
rs and visited the castle. The old castle
of Nottingham, which figures so largely in
history, occupied grand site, and judging
rom the outlines as they can now be traced
and by a gateway and lodge still standing
mnst have been strong and noble feudal edi-
fee II was destroyed in Cromwell's time. The
building standing, though in ruins, was built
in 1879, in the dull, ugly style of that period /;
II has no pretenson to the name OF castle, and
not even its lofty site, l33 feet above the mea-
dows nor ruin, nor ivy, can make 1t plctur-
esoue or venerable. The only interest attached
10 It is. that it was the residence of Queen
Anne in her Swallowed days and was finally
burned and demolished in the mobs OF 1881, in
n popular outbreak against the Duke of New
castle. for voting against the Reform Bill But
the old castle was a famous place. Ii was
bnit bv William the Conqueror, on an I'M
,pense rock. perforated with Druidical vaults,
cayerns. and long winding passages. 1t was
favorite Mace of residence, or visitation, and
stronghold of power with all the old English
K;ncs and swarms with historical associations,
and strange dismal legends. Here Richard
Coeur de Lion held his first council alter his
yaturn from the Holy Land here the cowardly
King John often shut himself up, out of the
way of his stern barons here the voluptuous
Queen Isabella held her court and through
those dark secret passages leading from the
meadows below came her adventurous lover,
Roger de Mortimer, to keep his perilous APP
pontments here he was taken by Edward the
Third here Henry the Fourth often came in
state and here Owen Glendower was impris-
oned Richard the Third frequently held his
court here and here he first heard of the land
ing of Richmond in England through that
same old gateway he set forth for the march
which closed on Bosworth Field. The First
Charles here planted his standard in l642-an
ominous storm blew it down that night; here
he was brought, a prisoner, in l646.
The view from the castle terrace is exceed
lIlS1 Ill., NuSe SAVChp VI waving
grain fields. and meadows, and wooded hills,
beautifed by slyery streams, sweet rural vii
lagos. picturesque old churches and elegant
residences
We were greatly pleased with our drive
about the town, which has some fine churches
and goodly number of literary, scientific, and
Hill, where Robin Hood and Little John re-
Ill Al
sheriff in his stead and the house in which
Henry Kirk White was born. Nottingham is
peculiarly favored in being the natal dating
place of poets Thomas Bailey, and his son,
Philip fedus" Bailey, William and Mary
Hewitt, Thomas Miller the Basket Maker
and score of others more or less distinguished,
were born in the shadow Of " the great rock
On our way to Lincoln we passed the resi-
dence of Sir Robert Peel and the ruins of
Newark Castle, which show oddly in the midst
of the busy town, hard by the railway station.
Lincoln is built ON the rocky site of an old
Roman city; and here, for the first time, ! saw
Roman arches, roads, and pavements
The ruins of Lincoln Castle and of the Epis-
copal Palace are the finest have yet seen but
everything sinks into insignifcapce beside the
magnificent cathedral. This will not attempt
to describe-it is one of the things which you
must see for yourself We assembled to the top
Of the great tower. Oh, such fearful get
ting up stairs" But the grand prospect from
the summit well repaid us for our toll and loss
of breath.
On descending we found two or three Gu
rates or Wears, Il really cannot get "the hang"
of these clerical titles and degrees) and a little
crowd of white-gowned boys performing SER
vice in the chapel. We heard the organ roll
ing its melodious thunder through the solemn
arches, and the choristers singing beautiful
anthem But, beyond the solemnity of sound
the grandeur of noble music, the English wor-
ship struck me as utterly unsuited to the splen-
dor of old Catholic cathedrals 1t has form
without poetry, ceremony without mystery II
is wanting in the ideal and picturesque and
50, to the outward eye at least, comparatively
cold and tasteless. There is dreary bare
ness, an incompleteness, about vast cathedral
like this, without the warmth and glory spread
abroad by pictures of saints and !" the Virgin
of Virgins" without the grace of sculpture, the
pomp of gorgeous priestly robes, the slvery
wreaths OF incense, the radiance OF Illuminated
affairs, and above all, the presence of kneel-
ing crowd Of iervent and humble worshppers
II We are to have religion Of form. let it be
the perfection of FORM say many in these days
II we are to worship through the outward and
visible let at least our types and symbols be
beautiful and harmonious In country of
confscated cathedrals and churches denuded
and despoled of their fitting and legendary ac-
cessories, | can easily understand this Puseyite
reaction Though it is undoubtedly in many
directions a strike for power, it is in some q
mere rebellion of taste. This sentimental pas
sion for all things medieval, from the llumina-
ted prayer-book of the noble lady to the Gothic
red brick country house of the retired grocer
this rage for mouldy tapestry, injuriously I'M
comfortable chairs, and hideOus old saints in
stained glass, is a part of the same religious
back.set.
We returned to Nottingham in the evening.
MT Surge here left me with some kind friends,
win whom spent the night, and who in the
'"orhi'g accompanied me to Newstead.
never can forget that morning. The air
was SOU ana warm though fresh invigorating
preeze was blowing, and clouds were drifting
occasionally across the sun. We were in an
open carriage, and, for once, our simple faith
was rewarded, and we had no rain to dampen
our enthusiasm Our road led through q
country which my friends pronounced bleak
ana dreary but to my eyes it was beautiful fol
sReatness and greenness, its peculiarly Eng
isn character, and for its wild, legendary as
socisaoas--for it was the ground once haunt
.p ny hobIn Hood and his "merrie men -
tne old forest Of Sherwood In front of the
ga'e, at the entrance of Newstead Park. stand,
srand ola guardian-oak. Passing this you
en'er long, noble avenue of frs then YOU
uome upon an open piece of ground, covered
W WIN Wild fern-then upon some fine trees
uhep the iake-then the Abbey This was "a
ne both grander and more beautiful than
expected to find it, The larger part of the
re.,o ung mas been wonderfully and completely
eu ny The present owner, Colonel Wild
and anu .ie remaining ruins are of so light
with ,aeelui character, and 80 richly clad