The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1852-01-13
LETTERS FROM SPAIN.
II A NEW YcRg LADY.

Ir7rEK
MApRIp, 18th Nov, 1851.
Ny pxAR BAT last am in Spain, the dream
M my chldho God, of troubadours and bull fights.
l left Paris at o'clock in the morning II
vas lovely day, and on all my journey was
hvored with the most beautiful weather. Il
has always been so with me. We went by the
railroad to PoNiers passing through Orleans, Blos,
Tours, and other cities Of note and historical recol
lectiop. The railroads IN France are well mar.
aged, but it was singular sight to see ~omon
come out and stand with Tags in their hands to
give the signals the train passed, instead Of men
At Tours we stopped TO take refreshnent, which
Ne found prepared in elegant saloons; there was
delicious fruit, wines, ragouts, and all sorts OF
French edibles Poitiers is fine old French city;
The railroad ends here, but the engineers busy
IN constructing the road to carry ii to Bordeaux
Here we travelled again on wheels, and after sup.
ping a. Poiters pursued our way in the night,
sleeping in the diligence. Any other way Of ira.
yelling into Spain was out Of the question, for
learnt before started that II would not be posi-.
ble to travel with post horses in Spain. After all
the diligence, or male post, Qer it is the Same
thing, was comfortable enough, and the company
lively and agreeable ! left the cougte, whi.h |
might have had to myself, TO enjoy the company Of
two smisble French ladies who were travelling TO
Bsyonne, ard found their conversation ard plea
SAINT manners great alienation TO the fatigaes or
the journey The Doctor Joined US part Of the time,
and kept up constant cha: and merry laugh
ter. Il was evening when got down q. the hotel
AZ Bordeaux, very mu,h fstgusd, with the prospect
Of passing another night in the diligence, before we
should arrive 1t Bayonne. The second night was
the worst, but got through it very well, and on
the evening OF mex. day arrived safe at Bayonne.
Bayorne is ancient city, half French half Span
Sch The women had all the appearance Of Spanish
wcmen-fne. dark sparkling eyes, aud black hair;
] think the most beautiful have ever seen. ] vi.
xted next day the ancient cathedral, and walked
along its venerable cloisters They were preparing
for the first OF November, which was All Saints
bay, q great fete of the church, observed with
much solemnity and gee by all classes.
On AL Saints Day, Nov lst, started for s pain,
and after leaving Bayonne at in the morning, il
couple Of hours the high mountains Of the Pyrenees
appeared in sight, and was now entering into Spain
Hitherto, ! had met with no accidents, and no dan.
gers on the road, but, on entering Spain, NJ trou-
bles began The diligence drove up to the door CT
sd old. fashioned house at Irun, small frontier
fewn, and here ! had to alight, and have GIL my
luggage overhauled. for it was the ao.ane, or the
custom house. will do the Sraniards tho JUS
tioe to say, that here they quite civil and ro
hto, far more than the English; but they looked
very poor and half starved, and l am yet to learn
whether they honest. The sequel will tel that.
Il were to make comparison between all the Gus
TEN houses which ! have passed through, in si:-
ferent countries, I should say that the Eng
Ish were the worst--their officers are the most
rude and vulgar for even the Russians, whom they
call Doors. superior to them in courtesy and po.
iteness. While these officers at Irun were e1amin-
ing my trunks and boxes, they came upon small
Ease IN which were my Jewels; these my Partisan
ieweler had, to my misfortune, nicely and pref
thy arranged, in proper receptacles that when the
Nd was lifted up, and the contents met the eye, the
2etonisbed Custom House officers lifted up their
hsnda, uttered EXPLANATIONS Of surprise. az wis
yered signif esntly to each other. New q long
enc rather tumul.uous discussion arose among
chem about my jewels Cne said ! mus. pay for
them, another that they must De stopped / said
they were personal and I-iva.e ornaments, not in
PRODUCED for sale or profit Some said ought 70
have them; some said X was perfect jab-
berthe confusion Of Babel We adjourned the
debate to en- upper room, for hitherto il had been
carried on below in the crowd Of dlers, muleteers,
drivers, hackmen, ro:ters, and o.hsrs. n upper
room the debate was resumed; some more officers
we're sent fer-opinions divided. A. length
tie evil REVEALED the man who see ned
&c he the chief there, informed ne that
:bey could 70. pass unless paid 800 fra1:s. I
was indignant, ard determined not to 60 50. lie
then Of length lowered his demand till lie reduced
the to 40 frances but desernin to resist the
extorton, and persisted in ny f-st resolution,
though the Doctor advised me to pay aud reclaim II
3: Madrid, 50 thai might have them with me They
were obctina te, and tie head man, after making
90. list which he handed 10 me, locked IN ny
casket il his desk. left lrun, leaving behind me,
ia doubtful hands, my little treasure, and pursued
my journey 10 Madrid, determined rather to lose
my jerel-y than submit to the exto-tion Of the
officers. Thus lef: the field Of battle, firm il ny
purpose i was little skirmish, bu. don think
IT viii cause war between Srain andAmerica.
We passed through highly picturesque country
or our road to Madrid. Crossing the lztLnus,
with the Mediterranean and the Pyrennees on one
hide and the Atlanti: the other, we KEEP. IN sight
Of the latter ocean-so that, in fact, VIC did NO.
cross the Pyrennees but passed alongside 0. them.
vas very much pleased with several towns we
passed through, ST. Sebastian, Vitorla, Tciosa,
Purgos, &c; they are antique, venerable places,
N the midst Of picturesque country, anu people
equally picturesque, but who look very poor
and hungry. The lower classes wear the ancen.
knee breeches. with blankets or ragged old csaks,
thrown over their shoulders; Of better classes sa
few II any. The country ] passed through was in.
differently cultivated-much Indian corn, about
one third, or even only one fourth, the heigL. i:
grows to with us in the Western States OF America
] arrived much fatigued q. Madrid, late a.
nigh. after passing two nights on the rough roads,
in the rough diligence, with heavy head anu
heavier heart, thinking that the Pyrenees sera.
rated zoe FROM my dear little son H. 4 b.
LETTER IL.
MADRID. Nov. ~, ISL.
The Opera House in Mairid is not surpassed in
Dagni6ctnce and splen dor by any in the civilized