Weekly national intelligencer. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1841-1869, 1852-09-11
A WALK UP THE coRcovApo.

neighborhocd. AT that time had knowledge of the
city, or the extent of ground which it covered. The
only plan could adopt, without guide, to select
large street. apparently more frequented than the rest
and keep straight far as it would lead think
We must have walked two miles before began
perceive any prospect of gaining the country The houses
all along much of the character being about
two stories high whiewashed in 'front.' and ornamented
in rude the doors and cornices, with pro-
jectng tile roofs and windows with green crossedwork
lattces Some of them had shops in the front part call
ed vendas, (or places Of sae At almost every window
seated families of Brazilian women, looking at the
bypassers. This custom Of sitting the windows is the
FIRST thing that attracts the attention Of the stranger
Men, women, and children do nothing else whe
Their any thing 10 to be not makes difference
there they sit, from morning till night, and probably
great part Of the night On reaching the terminus of
the street. we caught glimpse of the green hills short
distance off, adorned with gardens cottages and flower
ing shrubs in full bloom Just as our hopes about
to be realized dark clouds suddenly gathered overhead
and the rain began to fall in torrents large building
with covered archway leading into courtyard, stood
near by and into the shelter thus afforded rushed for
protection against the The rain kept here for
nearly hour, when again 1t continued to
shower lightly at intervals till reached another venda
where found very tempting display Of fried fish and
old negro stood charcoal furnace frying the fish in
sort of gieasepan dirty-looking himself, and
nearly black 1t had odor savory, however,
to counteract all preudices against the Of cook
ing and the dabocal aspect Of the old negro We threw
down few dummos, four-cent pieces, and made signs
to the old that wanted fish. He gathered up
about dozen of the largest dripping with grease, and
handed them to US, which devoured with amazing
fish; and certainly tasted any thing better in my
life. bottle of fine English ale and few small oaves
of bread completed repast By this time had ceased
raining and the shone out bright and warm Be-
gued by the beauty of the scenery wandered for
several miles till turn in the road that open
ed charming interior view of the Corcovado
and the neighboring mountains. The roads were very
muddy, but continued on quite enchanted, green
and luxuriant the whole aspect Of the country The
valleys covered with long rank grass groups OF
shrubs, and flowers Of brilliant hues in full bloom
Streams, swollen with the recent showers swept down
from the mountains and formed thousands Of little lakes
in the meadow lands sometimes breaking the green
banks, and mingng with long dropping grass to
blend the land and together in gentle and gradual
tints. AT villa the roadside we saw a number of
washing clothes in of these miniature lakes
Their brOnzeke limbs and gaycolored robes with the
reflection Of each figure in the water had very striking
eject The villa belonged wealthy Brazilian
ed several hundred acres and were laid out with great
taste by English landscape gardener Rural effect
admirably preserved while the more costly Brazilian
character of decoration predominated Temples COM
handing the finest views of mountain and valley were
pitched upon each prominence partially hidden in the
richest tropical foliage and moss-eovered ruins of old
chapels and monaseries mouldered among the craggy
rocks on the hilsides. On eminence, covered with
green sward as soft and smooth carpet of velvet
stood the manson-a splendid building decorated in the
most imposing style Of Brazilian architecture The roof
Of ornamental red tile with cornices of blue and
white projecting about three feet An elevated cupoa in
the middle with railing of bronze around the top form
ed sort Of observatory The front of the house was
white with coored blinds and rich ornamental work over
the tops Of the windows The sides and gabeends were
painted in vertical stripes of blue white and red giving
very novel appearance. This briancy Of colorng and
the gaudy style Of the ornaments give all the Brazilian
villas Hashy and unsubstanal appearance scarcely in
accordance with Anglo-Ssxon notions Of taste want
Of truthful simplicity is the chief characteristic both in
design and decoration. Such buildings convey the idea
Of love Of show, and preference for fmsy external
effect, to the detrment Of true substantial beauty
could look at Brazilian villa without thinking Of
painted toy One thing however must be said in their
favor They harmonic well with the brilliant character
Of the scenery Perhaps chaste style would have
sombre and incongruous effect IL is among groves OF
orange palm, and trees and flowers that bloom
only in our northern lighthouses, that naturally looks
for gaudy style Of architecture.
The misty peak Of the Corcovado seemed so near that
we could not resist the temptation make the ascent al
though We had lost so much time in our rambles.
short distance from the villa we came to the venda Of
one Senior Joaquin where in to get some refresh
ments Here we had striking exhibition of the indie
pendence Of the Brazilian shopkeepers. Two or three
negro slaves waiting the counter to purchase
trfe and although Wing and myself being in hurry
pulled out purses and made grand display Of gold
could not get Senior Joaquin his salesman 10 attenH
to until he had served each one of the negroes had
frequent opportunities Of witnessing this popularity af
forwards. Brazilian makes but little distinction be.
tween customers. Rich and poor, black and white arc
al the same to him. If you exhibit any mpatience h
cooy says, "Patienza, senor andf you don't like that
he tells you to go TO some other shop.
As we assembled the mountain, each step brought N
into new and varied scenes. From an emnence abou
three miles up the valley enchanting. Villas
scattered over its green unduatng surface gittered
the sunbeams like spangled toywork vobyscus and alo
ooomed around u.s. ranges Of cocoa-nut trees stood
the verges Of the hills, presenting clear outline agains
the sky the sides Of the mountains we're covered wit
blue and yellow shrubs Of exquisite fragrance dim blu
outlines Of peaks above the other till mbedde
in the clouds that lowered around them and the horzo
seemed lost in hazy circle Of bays islands
and mountain peaks The whole country had the appear
Of gorgeous picture with sufficient distinctness
the foreground TO give it the emblance Of reality and
Al anil a.lua1e ftan,r.. sx..