The republic. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1849-1853, 1852-05-08
A CHAPTER ON IaEbncs, OR CLARET
WINES.

"
My DEAR SIR: Your favor VI The 7lh contains
come queries about the wine OF Chateau Mar
gaux," The answers which you expect me 10 give
viii be, suppose, for the information Of friends
when can imagine 10 haze been led to The sub
j,ct over bottle Of Chateau Lafiteaax," which,
though il does not aspire 10 the rank Of 'Ciiusrn
Margaux, -, nevertheless. pure wine, and
adapted 70 give you correct impression Of true
"lLdOc "
Before speak particularly Of the wine of 'Cha,
'caa Margaux," permit me to offer lew general
remarks bout Ciartts -
= Ciayef' 10 name not used in France, nor 10 il
ever applied TO the Wines which we here designate
by that name. The generic name ot all Ciarets
is "MEDpC." This 10 the name of the district
where wines better clas ed, according to their
growth and quality, than in any other wine grow
ing country. The district of Medoc belongs to the
arrondi.sement Of Bordeaux, department Of the
Gironde, in the southwest OF France. IL 10 formed
Of ancient Guieane, and bounded north by the de-
parimcut Charsnte IN eritre; to the south by the
sandy district Of the Lands >; the east Ivy the
department OF the D0rdogne and the L0fet Ga
re,inej aud the west by the Atlantic ocean. The
most important part of the district is that which
lice the LETT OF the rivers Dordogne and Ga
rome, below Bordeaux. These Two rivers unite at
Bourg, and form The Gironde, which, With the Dor
dognc and Garonne, traverses the whole district in
a northwest direction.
II Is the slopes Of this left bank. descending
the river from Bordeaux, that find the ysriuus
villages of Ludon, Canhnac, Ma gaur. b, cheusiie,
-
have given nants TO the various wines OF their re-
spcctive communts.
few words about the qualities, o. % classifca
ton OF the wines Of =. Mcdoc" This classified
ton has been long established by usage ON the most
sacred basis; fur. although there be those who
think that his neig hbor's wine, which 10 placed in
the rank OF second quality, 10 entitled only TO that
OF thirds, st the well established, by
means Of the Classification, that no true Medoc
wine can be passed of second class which Ia be-
low II. They are, besides, each so we'll known by
their respective Characters and flavor, that have
seen ON experienced judge enter the large cears
at Bordeaux, where the wine 10 in charge OF the
professional swine coopers" on sale, and, indis-
criminatcy tapping the casks, would name the
plantation vineyard II was rom, soon as seen
aHd tasted In each class or qualify (crI) of wine,
there are, however, differences OF opinion 20
their merits although there many under the
one general head Of fret. second, third, fourth or
II th ass.
There are five clssses Of Medoc before you reach
the Bon bourgeois" ioi'ts NOT m,Isd. Then
come the "Vins-vrdinnires." which are usually
the most inferior vince Of the district; Of feeble
character or quality, and mixed with coinmon red
wine oi heavier body, from the adjoining rist icis
and often spirits added to give them force and
Keeping qualities for shipment.
The "Nin. ordinairc" IL such ns is usually sold
in this country IN bossbcaGs at tw, MY To some
times thirty dollars a bogshead, or two three
collars dozen. and 10 pure Mdac All
The wines that are classcd are pure. Not Unfrc-
qucnily, however, some hous.s burgundy certain
sne5a little good burgundy wine 10 impair favor,
or body. THIS does no injury; on the contrary,
some prju certain wines treated thus. a lover %
the beet grades # Mcdoc would not.
OF the Mcdoc wines II the first class there
bat four, The order Of them is q folio as: Cha
tau .lIargayg" in the commune OF MargauI;
.'ChGhdu Lnfue," in the Commune Of Pauiiac;
Chateau Laio,.T," in the SHINE commuur; and
"H,ut. B,ion," IN Pess,c. The second class wines
number about eleven sorts, vineyards. The best
OF tbSse is thought 10 be the wines ~ Chateau Co.,
ia 81 Estcphc. hich 10 wine Oi rcmar aDle body
color, and bouquet. This the wine which the
late DOininick Lynch soid much OF in the United
States as Chateau Margauy," and wh,ch made
HE name reno~ ned ne importer of fne Ciafct
This statement make ON the authority Of Mr.. Dee
tuintl, Of isordcaUx, the proprietor vi the yige.
yard &c So who assured me Of its truthfuln, &C.
know vi no wine among Medocs that may be
fcly adopted IN lieu oi the hrs class vim
tiose wno d, sire TO ocoDonsc, as The Cos" OF Mr.
ID stuuriel, VINO ~, besidfs being producer, tue
vcntcr OF his own wines in Bordeaux.
The seconds. lass beet wines seldom sell much
b, low wines of the fret class
The "thrd-Cllss' wines number about fifteen,
and sell at about three hundred france TON (oi
1,ur hog hcbds) lees than tbs second. ] speak Of
rineyd'd pric The "founh cliss' number about
seventeen, and cell aboot three burdtcd franz be-
To- tue "ihifd" Sumo Of the f,urthsclaes wines
nrc "MGrgaty" wines. q. grown ind produced
in the Commune Of MargauE;) but arc not TO bc
coHiJunded with the wines of the farm vineyard
Of /" Chatsau Maygdur - Then comes the "f:th.
Z
Of which are grown in Margfuy, except an unin-
potttnt product of ten or Twelve tons year.
Thcfc ~ usually about four thousand tons, !. c.
sixteen thoosand cssks, or about one million OF gal
Inns annually, produced Of The classified tcinss Of
hicdoc. The d, 81 not very arundent, and
therefore the total estimate should be put 90 about
seven hundred and fifty thousand gallons Ahcr
the nth class wines come the Bon bJurgcois,' in
which rank may bc placed nearly all the good
wines "f 81 Esephe, Pduiiiac, and st. Julien, rot
named IN The fire classes; also. good vineyards
/ u SOassdns, Labdfde, Lpdon. aui Dfacau. and
few small proprietaffes Of Mdrgo,tr and Cantenac
Alter these cone the small properties Of Patiiae
and 81 Esfephs, some large vineyards Of Cissae,
So SduUeur. LdHmgue, sc also, the Paysans of
MargaUx, Cantensc, st. Julien, and Psuillac, which
te from hive To seven hundred francs ION.
L. fact the small f. ingrs IN the celebrated com
muues often make very good wine, and readily
obtain for II Of the bordeaux merchant tn &c hum
dred 10 inur hundred francs a ton OF four casks.
There is belonging 90 small propriciOrs some
vince in tho n,itst ol those which belong TO the
classcd qualities, bat they are destitute Of that
bouquet, vIgvr, and aroma, which gives vaisc to-
the Claescd wines.
After this long story, I must conclude with some
~, particular remarks about the wine Of "CHA-
| 7EAu MARGAcx,' which secms more especially the
OH ~ your inquiry.
Inc commune VI Margaux, OF which the name is
- celebrated, is tordcrcd on the north by Sous
saBs, south by Cantenac, west by Avensan, and
casi by The river Girondc.
The e,rih is graycly and filed with pebbles
IL dis commune is the famous trsi-cass WINE
(premier cfu) Of " Chai,ou MorgapJ +" The annu |
proluci Of this vineyard is about twenty five thou
land gallons; of which about nineteen Thousand
ave VINE Of frst quality, and tho remainder
seconds" This wine is remarkable for its fine
quauel, It's beautiful co.or aud bouqu.t. u has
iurcc without being spirituous; il gives vgor TO
the stomach while respects the head and ii cav,s
the breath pore and mouth fresh Its rrpua-
iipn i European. II isuiuch sought after vi Eng.
lnud. where il enjoys marked preference and
commands always high price.
S,nce 1875 the cutite crop Of the vincyafd Of
"Chate1u hargaux' has been contracted for by
hyc houses in BORDEAUX for nine years, from ls4i
at the price If two thousand one hundred francs
tht Ion. (uf four CASKS Il about sixty gallons
Cac) Thisinclulcs all the wine. embracing ,nm h
that j. second quality. So that whilsi this IL not
TAO dollars RaflOn FOR IT, az the vineyard where