The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1852-11-25

in true grandeur falling far behind the real
picture of the real Napoleon, in his gray sur
tout, quietly ascending the mountain pass on
mule led by an Alpine guide.
We were allowed to enter the Dome, where
the nation is paying almost divine honors to
the ashes of the Emperor, by giving him one
of the grandest burial places and monuments
which glory and poetry could devise, and art
power, and wealth, could execute. 1t is not
alone a gorgeous temple for the munificent Of
ferings of the nation to the names of her dead
glory, but vast chGpelie erptato1re for the
world who impiously rebelled against, and
finally rejected, his ma esty of majesties When
this tomb, with all its grand surroundings,
shall be finished, in most imperial splendor and
triumphal pomp will he rest who died in hope
less exile and reposed for so many years on
a lone barren rock in the far seas
Here, for the resounding beat Of waves on
that drear shore, will be the billowy swell and
majestic roll of grand organ-music; and for
the wild wailing of the ocean W inds, the mighty
sorrow and solemn supplication of countless
masses said for the repOse of his soul.
From the Hotel deS InualideS, we went to the
Luxembourg a very noble and beautiful pal
ace, though far smaller than the Louvre |
will not attempt to describe it-you must i'm
agine an edlfce very magnificent and princcly
outwardly-very grand, lofty, and uncomforta-
ble, inwardly | thought the Sale deS SednCeS
far surprising in beauty and dignity the Eng
lish Chamber of Peers; and some of the modern
French pictures in the gallery are, to my APP
prehension, finer than many by the old mas
tiers in the Louvre | was especially delighted
with one or two by Paul Delaroche
From the Luxembourg to Notre Dame, which
interiorly scarcely answered my expectations.
Its whiteness and ightness on that brilliant
day, took much from its vastness and grandeur.
Yet it is noble old cathedral, and little needs
the added grace of its countless glorious asso-
ciations-chief among which must live forever
the coronation of Napoleon and Josephine.
From Notre Dame to the Hotel de Clunq. a
picturesque old mansion, built on the spot or
near the spot where once stood the palace of
the Emperor Julian, and of some of the earliest
kings Of Gaul. There are yet to be seen some
curious Roman aqeducts, dungeons, and subter
ranean passages. The house itself now con-
tains an immense and choice collection of an
tiquties, curious manuscripts, mirrors, pictures,
statuary, carving cabinets, miniatures, china
furniture-all imaginable, interesting, and beau
tiful relics There is one magnificent inlaid
cabinet, once belonging to Louis XIV, which
opening, displays some exquisite paintings on
ivory, which modern art could not excel and
there are innumerable objects of historic or
romantic interest, making the shadowy old
chateau altogether one of the most charming
sights of Paris.
| nm painfully aware, my dear F., that
am making my letter little better than
catalogue of places and things that am Civ
ing you but the dry husks of my feast of beau
ty-but the shell of my rich pleasure-but the
lifeless ashes of my enthusiasm. | never found
myself in place where | enjoyed so much,
and could say so little The realization of the
dreams and fair imaginings of years, is here
crowded into few short days. What wonder
if | am stunned, bewilderod, speeches. am
wildly conscious of but one sense-aght-and
through my eyes am busily hanging the cham
bers of my brain with countless grand and
lovely pictures, to illuminate with their unex-
tnguisha1le splendor all the dark days which
Time may have in store for me, hid under the
shadow of his wing.
October 24--Y esterday being very stormy,
could only spend short time at the Louvre,
and visit the mandatory of the Gobelin Ia
pestry, where was astonished and delighted
by rarely beautiful specimens of this splendid
fabric, and by observing the wondrous art,
care, and patience, by which they are pro
duced
To-day we have visited Pere In Chaise, taken
a stroll in the gardens of the Tuieries, and
attended service at the Madeleine.
1t was a lovely morning for the cemetery :;
the air had the soft golden sunniness Of Indian
summer, and sweet south wind was woolng
rather than tearing the withered leaves from
the trees, along our paths. Beautiful emblems
of death, they futtered down in showers of
crimson, and gold, and bronze, upon chapel and
tomb, and draped the humblest grave with a
gorgeous pail. Pere la Chase, though more
crowded, and with less natural beauty than
some OF our cemeteries, is cheerful and love-
ly city of the dead, and has glory and a ga
credness which none of ours yet possess from
enshrining the ashes, the all that could die, of
many whose memories live in immortalties of
love and power and sorrow, beating on forever
in the life-currents of the heart of the world
thought Oh Death where is thy stingan
where are thy terrors, thy gloom, and thy lone
Illness when marking over countless tombs
beautiful little chapes and ornamented shrines,
lovely, secluded, holy places, where grieving
friends may come for meditation, prayer and
sweet rememberlng-Or gazed down long pleas
ant fowery vistas of graves, hallowed with
cleaning crosses, and hung with votive wreaths.
The French certainly do not, like too many
among us, thrust their dead away into the
earth and thenceforth avoid the spot, rs though
pestilences were exhaling from the grave turf.
At almost every tomb you see fiowery eviden-
ces of frequent and recent visitation. 1t is true
that this sometimes looks more like the ex-
preston of sentimental than a deep sorrow,
and doubtless the rich often drop in at these
elegant little chapels, and leave votve wreaths,
very much as they would make a round of
fashionable calls, and leave cards at the doors
of their acquaintance
The first tomb to which we were conducted
was that of Abelard and Helose This is a
large, imposing monumental small chapel, in
the Saxon style, beautifully sculptured built
over the original sarcophagus of the immortal
lovers, surmounted by their recumbent statues
Their figures have a dignifed, sorrowful grace
and their faces amournful beauty which would
touch and trouble one to whom their history
were unknown. 1t is little consolation to one
remembering the long agony of their severed
lives to read on this tomb that here in death,
they are reunited--to know that the eyes for
hidden to look devotion and tenderness and
condemned to watching and tears, are here
quenched in the same darkness-that the love-
warm lips, once torn asunder, now meet, "dust
to dust "-that the ardent and faithful hearts
which bled apart with one anguish, now mingl'
ashes to ashesn
1t was with shock of strange emotion that
found myself standing by the unmarked grave
of Marshal Ney. SILVER ran through my
frame, and my heart seemed for the moment
motioness with sorrowful awe There is here
no monument, no chapel, no cross--only a
railing and few flowers about the grave
There was one crimson rose beside it. which !
could but dream had drawn its deep coloring
from his rich heroic blood
At almost every step we came upon the rest
ing place OF great novelist or poet, a warrior,
a philosopher, an orator, or a grand tragedan:
R.al. LII 4