New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1852-07-05
FROM NETWORK To NINEvEH.
XXXvIlI.
THE RETURN VOYAGE THROUGH EoYrr-ARaI-

XXXvIII.
THE RETURN VOYAGE THROUGH E0YPf-ARRI-
VAL At CAIRO.
thtsriai csrssp.sts.es 81 tn. 3. Y. Trs.ss.
CArRo, Egypt Friday, April z lsoa
took donkey and rode around the Cat
srses 70 Assousn, leaving Ali to take care OF tho
saggsge-cameis. I went directly TO the beach,
where q crowd Of vessels moorsd, 10 exPecta-
ton Of the caravans Of gum from the South. An
Egyptian Bey going to Khartoa n IN the train OF
Rustum Pasha, had arrived the day before u
small dahsbiyeh, and the captain thereof mne-
diasey offered il 10 me Tor tho return TO Cairo. IL
was Q neat and beautiful little vessel With clean
cabin, couch, divsn, and shady portico On deck.
He asked twelve hundred piastres offered him
nine hundred; we sgreed on a thousand, and when
my camels arrived there was new refuge pre-
pared for my household gods. l set Achmet to
work at getting the necessary supplies, cent the
rails to bake bread for the voyage, and then vent
to see the jolly, aat-nosed Governor, Shskksr e.
| fendi. He received me very cordially, and had
great deal to say Of shs unparalleled herd Of trav
| elers on the Nile during the winter. Ninsty-six
vessels and eleven steamboats, had reached the
harbor Of Assouan, and Of these the greater M n
-
me, must be very rich, said the Governor.
Perhaps" replied, but gave the Arabic word
the Bowery significance Of "you'd better bslisve
it," The Arabs have barely succeeded in learning
that Mellikaaee" las they term us) is not an
Ingiees," but from the lowest Fellah up to Alb
has Pasha, they have not the remotest idea Of eur
| character az q nation.
| When I lef the divan, the firing Of guns
nounced the safe arrival Of the English boats below
the Cataract. Very soon saw two bsrnt- faced tar
bouehed individuals with eysg glasses in their eyes,
strolling up the beach. For once threw or the
reserve which a traveller usually feels towards
every speaking his own language, and accost-
ed them. They met my advances halfway, and be-
| fore long my brain was in a fsrment Of French and
English politics. Europe was still quiet then, but
how unlike the quiet OF the Orient! The English
men had plenty Of news for me- but knew nothing
| Of the news 1 most wsnted-those Of my own
| country. Had our positions been reversed, the
1 result would have been different They left at
sunset for the return to Thebes, but detained
until noon the next day, when set of in company
| with the boat Of Signor Droretti, Of Alexandra,
who left Khartoum few days after me. | had
six men, but only two OF them were good oars
| men.
In the morning. when I woke, the broken pyon
Of Ombos tottered directly ever the boat.
rushed on deck in tins to catch another sight Of
| the beautiful double portico, looking down from
| the drifted sands The wind blew very strongly
| from the north, but in the afternoon succeeded
| in reaching Djebsl Silsilsh, where the English
boats were moored. We exchanged pistol salutes,
and ran up to the bank to visit some curious
sculptured tablets and grottses, which We did not
see on the upward voyage. during the night the
wind increased to such an extent that all the
boats were obliged to lay to. The mcrnins found
our four dahabiyshs floating slowly down 10 CON-
pany, crossing from side to side transversly in Or
der to make little Roadway. After thrse or four
hourB, however the wind grow strong that they
were driven up stream, and all ran 70 the lee Of q
high bank for shelter There We lay nearly all
day. The Enslishmsn went ashore and shot quails,
bss lounged on my divsn, unable to do anything,
for the change from the dry, hot desert air, 10
these damp Nile blasts, brought o, an inaamma.
ton Of the eyes, resembling opthslmia. was
unable 10 read or write, and had no remedies ex-
cept water which I tried both warm aad cold
with very little effect.
Toward evening the wind fell after dark we
passed the pylon Of Edfoo, and at noon the next
day reached Esseh. | west at snce 10 the tom
pie, 30 beautiful in my memory, yet still more
beautiful when saw it again. The boys who ad-
mitted me, Lifted the lids Of the large collins and
showed the royal mummies, which are there
erumbling to pieces from the neglect Of the Egyp.
tian authorities, who dug them up at Koornee.
Tbs collins are Of thick plank and still sound, ths
wood having become exceedingly dry and light.
The mummies were all more or less mutilatcd, but
the heads Of some were well preserved. In form,
they differ considerably from the Arab head Of the
present day, showing better balance Of the in
telsctual aid moral faculties. On one Of them
the hair was still fresh and uncorrupted. II was
Of fine, silky texture and bright auburn color.
The individual was q woman, with a very SYM
metric al head, and small, regular features. She
may have been beauty once, but nothing could
be more hidsous. pulled OF small lock Of hair,
and took it with me a curious relic. Esneh
appeared much more beautiful to me than on my
upward journey possibly, by contrast with the
nud-built houses Of Soudsn. l went TO a coffee
shop and smoked sheesheh, while the muszzin
called dawn from the mosque in front: "God is
great; there is no God but God Mahomst Is the
Prophet Of God" Ali Ehend tho agent Of tho
A0odfr, or Governor, came to see me AID after
ward went on board my vessel. As the wind wa,
blowing so fanously that could not leave, in.
vted hIm 70 dinner, and in the meantime We had
long talk on sfrites and other evil spirits. |
learned many curious things concerning Arabic
faith in such matters. We also compared the
customs Of the Christians and the Turks, a. re.
CARDS woman and the marriage regulation; aud he
confessed as do many intelligent Musulmen that
our rule is the best He affirmed, however, that
there 10 difference In the women, the Christisus
not being unfsithful and treacherous, like the