New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1852-07-05

10 cary on tho W1ntrf pFoo9SO.
II was bright, warm and quiet day that spe"'
at Thsbes. The great plain, siodied oy us .a'''
mountain chains, lay in a sublime rePo'e' ine''
vas no traveller there, an a. the people were e1
peetiBg none, they had already given up tn' 'u'"'
to their summer silence and loneliness. naa "'
company, on either aide Of the river, bat my 'o'"-
or guides, vhs had now become AZ old rienhS'
We rode to Kamak, to Medeenet Abo1, 10 tn'
Memnonium, and the Colossi Of the Plain. Inc
ruins had now not only memory Tor me, but a
language. They no longer crushed me with tne''
cold, stern incomprehensible grandeur ! wa.
calm a. the Sphinx, whose lips no longer closed
on mystery. had gotten over the ave OF
neophyte, and, though 40 little had been revealed
TO me, walked among the temples with the feeling
ofs master. Let no one condemn this expression
as presumptuous. for nothing is so simple as Art
when once we have the clue to her infinite mean
ings.
White among tAemany white days OF my travel
that day at Thcbcs is registered; and II 10"
with pain, and the vast regret we feel on turning
away from such spots, at least took with me the
joy that Thsbes, the mighty and the eternal was
greater to me in ts living reality than it hsd ever
been in all the shadow pictures my anticipation
had drawn. Nor did the fsultless pillars OF the
Msmnoniun nor the obelsks Of Karnak, take
away my delight in the humber objects when
kept q recognition for me. The horses, whoss
desert ilosd sent its contagion into mins the
lame water.boy, always at my elbow with MS
earthen bottle; the grave guides, who 'coas'dsreo
my smattsrng Of Arabic a. something miraculous
and thence dubbed he "Taylor Ehendi the
halfnaked Feilahs in the harvost-helds, VINO re-
msmbersd some idle joke Of mine,-ah shese COM
bined 10 touch the great landscape with home
like influence, and 10 make it seem, IN some ~'se'
like an old resting -paee Of ray heart. hustapna
Achmet Aga, the English agent at Luxor nad
great desl to tell me OF the squabbles OF travellers
during the winter: how the beach was lined with
foreign boats and the temples crowded day alter
day with scores Of visitors; how these quarreled
with their dragomen, and those with their boat
men, and the latter with each other, till thanked
Heaven for having kept me away from Thebss at
such riotous period.
leff Luxor in q complete calm, and before
sunrise next morning reached ksnneh. Here
was obliged to stop q day to let the men bake
their bread, and I employed tho time in taking
Turkish bath and rovisitiag tho temple Of Den
dera. My servant Ali Left mo, as his family re-
sided in the place. gave him good present, in
consideration Of his service during the toilso ne
Journey we had just closed. He kissed my hand
vsry.gratefally, and fslt some regret at parting
with, as I believed, an honest servant, and q
worthy, though wild young fellow. What was
my modification on discovering the next day that
he had stolen from mo q beautiful stick, which
had been given me in Khartoum by the Stitch
Nas,, the daughter Of the last King OF SEMINAR
and which he knew valued highly. The actual
worth Of the stick was trhing, but the action be-
traysd an iDgrattsde which had not expected.
even In an Arab.
Fer three days after leaving Kenneh, furious
head wind did its best to beat me back, and in that
time we only made sixty miles. sighed when I
thought Of the heaps Of letters awaiting me in
Cairo, and Achmet could not sleep, from the do
sire Of seeing his family once more. He considered
himself a. one risen from the dead. He had heard
in Luxor that his wife alarmed at his long abb
sencc, and that his little son went daily to Boulak
to make inquiries among the returning boats. Be-
sides, my eyes were no better. I could not 20
ashore, as we kept the middle Of the stream, and
my only employment was to lounge on the outside
divan and gossip with the rails. But on the fourth
day the wind ceased. The Lotus hoated down
the stream as lightly as the snowy Blossom whose
name gave her. We passed Girgeh, Ekhmin
at Don we brushed the foot Of Djebcl shckh He
resdee and reached the landing place Of Tahtah.
had 4 letter from Rufaha Bey in Khartoum to
his family in the latter tswn and accordingly
walked thithsr through fields Of superb wheat
heavy with ripening ears. Tshtah 10 q beautiful
old town the houses are Of burnt brick; the wood
work shows the same fanciful Saracspic patterns
~ in Cairo, and the bazaar 10 as quiet, dim and
spicy a. an Oriental dream. found the Boys
house, and delivered my letter through a slave.
The wife, or wives, entertained me with coffee
and pipes, in the same manner, while a servant
went to bring the Bey's son fsom school. He was
! lsnguid boy Of about eight years old, and a. |
could not make much out Of him, sent the slave
TO bring donkeys, and We rode back to the boat.
In the morning we reached Stout. had seen il,
IN the spring Of an Egyptian November, giitteriag
over seas Of lusty clover and young wheat and
thought IL could look 80 lovely again; but
n rode up the long dyke overlooking the golden
waves Of harvest, and breathing the balm waited
from lemon groves spangled all over with their
milky bloom, knew not which picture to place in
my minds gallery. ] remained half day in the
place, partly for old acquaintance sake, and partly
to enjoy the bath, the clesnest and most luxurious
IN Egypt. l sought for some relief to my eyes,
md as they continued to pain me considerably, |
went on board an English boat which had arrived
before me, in the hope Of finding some medicine
adapted to my case. The travellers were most
nnocentfaced Englishman and his wife-a beau
tfui, home-ke little creature, with a. Kind heart
As ever beat. They had no medicine, but some
BODY had recommended detection Of parsley,
ana the sm'abie woman spoiled their soup to make
me some, and half suspect threw avay her eau