The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1852-01-20


tho Prado, at o certain hour, as merchants
are on Change. The Corso at Milan, the
Champs Elysees at Paris, Hyde Park in London,
and Broadway in New York. are something like, but
nothing equal to, the Prado at Madrid. In all the
former, the space is too wide and the company too
scattered; but the Prado it is limited walk and
ride where all collected together 1t u.s. in fact,
a sort Of theatre out Of doors, where tho company
gather and collected together at certain hour,
and where the audience itself is the acting company,
parading up and down to show themselves and see
the show.
seldom failed to be present; sometimes going
in a carriage, and at other times foot, and gene
rally accompanied by some of the best society in
Madrid-among whom may mention General La
somcy, aidde-camp of the late Regent Espartero,
an Irish gentleman of the old school, who entered
the Spanish service many years ago, and has risen
TO the highest distinction He is the perfect model of
an Irish gentleman. Another WAS Count d'Floraine,
a distinguished officer; and, also, the amiable and
handsome Mr. Perry, u. S. Secretary of Legation
On one occasion, in particular, when | was
there, the scene was quite grand and extremely
lively The Queen with her husband descended
from her carriage and walked up and dewn, looking
about her and enjoying the scene, the the
crowd of promenadsrs made way for her, aod, il is
rue, there curiosity to see her in the inter
estng situation she was in-carryipg, they say
here, the hopes of spain with her bat there
rude bustling or nosy Unconstitutional was not
prevented by too particular notice, from enjoying
herself like other people. Her dress was plain and
simple, yet elegant, and her manner quite pleasing
and unaffected, having dignity without protein
sion. she walked several tunes up and down
the avenue, in the midst Of the crowd Of walkers,
leaning on the arm Of the King, who was
plainly dressed, and occasionally nodded to
acouaintances whom he recognized they
passed along. | was walking with Count de
H@S@ on one side. and an American gentleman on
the other, when, as ! met the royal party, the
King, who had at the Opera, turned
around to the Queen and whispered in her ear.
! could see it was concerning myself He he'd
pointed his lorgnete several times at me at the
| Opers, and had returned the com plment, staring
! him out of countenance, that tacitly old
acquantances at distance. He is nice, gen eel,
ugly, impudent young fellow | now perceived
that he recognized me. Altogether, the whole
scene was splendid, gay and highly picturesque.
There we're officers gentlemen, countrymen, citi-
zens, Andausisns in their gaudy costume, priests
with their yard long hats, carriages, CAVALIERS la
dies innumerable, ia the beautiful mantillas, all
bare headed--Q am sorry to say few bonnets are
beginning to appear on the Prado)-ther hair
tastefully dressed, their black, keen eyes darting
fire and excitement; here were brilliant and gaudy
equipages-the New York buggy was there, too;
there were plain and ordinary equipages-al was
mingled together in perfect equality; it was jam
and crowd of all sorts of people, yet all orderly,
quiet and sedate 1t formed, altogether, scene Of
much excitme Mt and fascination. Such is the Prado
every day more less animated, yet always
crowded at the regular hour. 1t is here the Spa
niard is to be SEEM his national character wrapped
In his flowing cloak or dressed in gay colors saun.
eriDg dling and chatting in groups together. 1t is
here, too, that the Spanish woman is to be seen
in all her beauty and characteristic manners,
dressed, most Of them, wholly in black. They are
sweet women.
This lively scene of fashionable lounge and gen.
eral assembly takes place every day on the Prado
at regular time. The crowd lasts for about an
hour and half, or perhaps two hours, cordng
to the state Of the wea.her(for if cold wind
happenst to be blowing from the mountains, and the
air is sharp, the attendance is thinner)-then,
gradually, all return to their several homes to din
ner, and the spot which little before was all life
and animation, becomes SILENT still. and deserted.
The theatres in Madrid are well attended, and by
well dressed, well behaved company-the Opera
especially, which l have already described in for
mer letter. and which, in all respects, well deserves
the patronage it receives Ofsocety in Madrid, there
is little, except the evening tetslias. These open
late, the company arriving at about eleven but to
me it appeared dull for the ladies sit down to cards,
and the gentlemen lounge round them and about
the room, sn okng their segars, so that the apart.
ment is in perfect cloud, and the ladies' he ads
are surrounded with irritable halo not of glory,
but oftobacco smoke. | confess like this custom
much better than our plan Of all the gentlemen re-
firing to separate room to enjoy their segars leav
ing the women aone-for, to my mind, society is
nothing without gentlemen. The Spanish ladies' in
this and many other respects, are not so fastdous
as the American or English. Upon the whole,
found them gentle, amiabc, and lovely, though ex-
ceedingly jealous; and, generally, they have a me-
| lancholy solemn look, as if they were bowed down
under the weight ofsome penance, the reproof of
their priests and oonfe ssors. Yet love them from
the Queen to the least Of them for there is no sc
qu6 Of charm about them; they look so pretty, all
in black without bonnets, walking gracefully along
with the mantlla tastefully pinned to their black
hair and flowing down behind, darting their bright
black eyes on each side OF them. If l were man,
] am sure should have lost my heart with them
thousand times over.
Thoggh had perfect health while in Madrid, it
is by nomeans healthy place, and as to the COM
forts Of life in doors, there are none. Imagine to
yourself large, splendid room in the depth Of
winter, without fire to warm you, and not even
fire place to kindle one in. The people almost live
cut Of DOORS standing the sunny side Of the street
to warm themselves. Then, on crossing over into
the shade, one is seized with chills.
The mountainsin the neighborhooi, covered with
snow, send down cold, piercing winds, which attack
the lungs in an instant. In three days it is all
over-they die like flies at the blast Of these cold
winds, together with the dry air of the city All
the time was in Madtid-ndeed, all the time
have been in SPAIN have not seen drop Of rain