New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1852-12-29

briny spray broke over me. Ifelt considerably
relieved when I reached the deck OF the
steamer, but it was then diversion enough 70
watch those who followed. The crowd OF boats
pitching tumultuously around the steamer
jostling against each other, their bulls cleaning
with wet, as they rose on the berylcoiorea
waves, striped with long, curded lines oil WIND
blown foam, would have made fine SUBJECT LOT
the pencil ofAchenbach.
At last We pushed off, with crowd of passen-
gers fore and aft, and pyramid of luggage piled
around the smoke-ppe. There was party OF
four Englishmen on board, and, on making their
acmaintaDce. found one Of them to be afnend
of some of INV friends-Sir John Potter. the
progressive ExMayOr OF Manchester. The
wind being astern, we ran rapidly along the
coast. and in two hours entered the mouth OF
the Granddaughter. This name comes from
the Arabic rodi Extraordinarily, the Great
Valley.1 The shores are adoad fiat. The right
bank is dreary forest of stunted pines, abound
ing with deer and other game on the left is the
dilapidated town of San Lucar, whence Magel'
Ian set sail on his first voyage around the world.
A mile further is Bonanza, the port of Here's,
where We touched and took on board fresh lot
of passengers. Thenceforth, for four hours,
the scenery of the Guadalquiver had most dis
tressing sameness. The banks were as fiat as
a board, with here and there a struggling
growth of marshy thickets. Now and then we
passed herdsman's hut, but there were no hu-
man beings TO be SEEM except the peasants who
tended the large fiOcks OF sheep and cattle L
sort Of breakfast was served in the cabin, but
so great was the number of guests that | had
great difficulty in getting anything 10 eat. The
walters were models of calmness and delibera-
tion.
AS We approached Seville some low hills ap-
peared On the left, near the river Dazzling
white villages were planted at their foot, and
all the slopes were covered with olive orchards,
while the banks of the stream were bordered
with silvery birch trees. This gave the land
scape, in spite of the African warmth and
brightness of the day, gray and almost wintry
aspect. Soon the graceful Giralda, or fam
Gus Tower of Seville, arose in the distance,
but from the winnings of the river we
were half all hour in reaching the landing
place. One sees nothing of the flr-famed
beauty of Seville, on approaching it. The
boat stops below the Alameda, where the
passengers are received by Custom House
officers, who in my case, did not verify the sto-
ries told of them in Cadiz. gave my carpet
bag to boy, who conducted me along the hot
and dusty banks to the bridge over the Guadal-
quiver, where he turnedintO the city. Onpassing
the gate, two loaier-like guards stopped my bag
gage, notwithstanding it had already been exam
ined. "What ~ said /, do you examine twice
on entering Seville" "Yes," answered one
twice, and three times" but added in lower
tore, % it depends entirely on yourself" With
that he slipped behind me, and let one hand fall
beside my pocket. The transfer of small coin
was dexterOusly made, and passed on without
further stoppage to the Fonda de Madrid
Sir John Potter engaged Antonio BaiUi the
noted guide of Seville who processes to have
been the cicerone of all distinguished travellers,
from Lord Byron and Washington Irving down
to Owen Jones, and readily accepted his inv-
tation to join the party. Bailli is recommended
by Ford as fat and goodhumored." Fat he
certainly is, and very good-humored when speak
ing OF himself, but he has been rather spoiled by
and is much too prouse in his critical
remarks on art and architecture. Nevertheless,
as my stay i'll Seville is limited, | have derived
no slight advantage from his services
On tie first morning l took an early stroll
through the streets The houses arc glaringly
white, like those Of Cadiz but are smaller and
have not the same stately exteriors. The win
dows are protected by iron gratinegs of ford
patterns I'D as many oithese are painted green,
the general effect is pleasing. Almost every
door opens upon patio, or courtyard, paved
with black and white marble and adorned with
flowers and fountains Many of these remain
from the time of the Moors and are still sur
rounded by the delicate arches and brilliant
tile-work OF that period. The populace in the
streets are entirely Spanish--the jaunty mqjo in
his queer black cap, sash and embroidered
Jacket, and the nut-brOwn, dark-eyed damsel,
swimming along in her mantilla and armed with
the irresistible fan.
We went first to the Cathedral, built on the
site OF the great mosque OF Abon Youssuf
YakOub. The tall Girada beckoned TO us over
the tops OF the intervening buildings, and finally
a turn IN the street brought us to the ancient
Moorish gateway on the northern side This
is TN admirable specimen of the horseshoe
arch, and is covered with elaborate tracerv.
lt originally opened into the court, or hqrdm,
of the mosque, which still remains, and is
shaded by grove Of orange trees The Gil
ralda, TO my eye, is more perfect tower than
the Campanilc of Florence, or that of San Mar
co, at Venice, which is evidently an idea bor-
rOwed from it. The Moorish structure. with
base of 90 feet square, rises TO the hight of 80
feet. 1t is of light pink color and the sides.
which are broken here and there BY exquisitely
proportioned double Saracenic arches, are coy.
cred from top to bottom with arabesque tracerv,
cut in strong relief Upon this tower, Spanish
architect has placed tapering spirs. 100 feet
high, which fortunately harmOnzes with the gen
eral design, and gives the GROWING grace to the
work.
The Cathedral of Seville may rank Is one of
the grandest Gothic piles in Europe The nave
lacks but FIVE feet of being as high as that of
St. Peters, while the length and breadth OF the
ediiice are on commensurate scale. The nine
ty'threc windows of stained glass fill the interi-
OF with soft and richly-tinted light, mellower
andmore gentle than the sombre twin, o. rns
vv"1c Catbedrals Of Europe. The wealth law
ished on the smaller ehapes and shrines is pro
dieious, and the high altar inclosed within a Gid
ed railing fifty feet high, is probably the most