The national era. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1847-1860, 1852-11-25


My DEAR f. p: left London, with
nlea-ant travelling companion, on the morning
- the Doth. for Paris, via Folkstone ana bou-
logne The day was remarkably fine, ana the
Lno-drpaded channel proved as smoOth ana
tranouil as a sheltered inland lake Inc pas
SAGE was made in about two hours. Douioghe
is most unpicturosque town, backed 10y nat
embarrassing country. The only oistihctVeiy
national sights at the landing were the num-
hers of ferce-ooking little soldiers, IN ugly blue
coats and uglier pointed hats ana OF peasant
women performing the work OF porters-DraVe-
" shoudering heavy luggage and carrying 1t
on shore in TRIUMPH 10 tne c'iuel' auiiiiia'ion
of their lazier halves.
Ma examination of our passportes at Bou-
,orne was light affair, as was the examination
of our luggage at Paris, when we arrived by
mil At aRont II o'clock, p. M. We had a
short drive to the Hotel Violet, Faubourg Pos-
sonniere where am now staying with large
marty of English and American friends
Early on the morning of the 2lst, we all
walked to the Louvre, where we spent nearly
the whole Of the day. After all had heard
Of this magnificent palace, ! was astonished by
its yastness and splendor. Its architecture,
While deliberately beautiful and royalty gor-
grandeur. Some of our party enjoyed most
the galleries of sculpture but revealed among
the pictures. Think what it was to wander
through miles of glorious paintings and immor-
tai statuary. Raphael and Murilo received
here, as elsewhere, my highest homage-but
was much impressed by the works of David
Their style is distinctively French, but sub
lmated French In his pictures, Napoleon al
ways appears the triumphant genius of glory,
OF the imperial soul of ma ectc power-in &C
ton, hero-in repose, a god.
Ate leaving the Louvre, we drove to the
church Of la Madeleine, a wondrously beautiful
edifce in the pure Greek style. 1t has little
Of religious solemnity in its outward grandeur
or inward magnfcence; but, as a triumphal
temple Of art it is the glory of modern France.
hccntains some fine paintings and noble sculp-
mre. The grand group at the altar is beyond
description beautiful
As stood on the steps of this church. and
looked down to the Place de Ia Corcorde, mark
ed by its towering Egyptian obelisk, my soul
staggered under the awful thought that these
peaceful streets and that quiet square were once
one vast surging, raging sea of human feroci-
ty-that near where the two Ornamented foun-
talns are playing in the pleasant sunshine, stood
the gulOtme sp0uting blood That there. had
mad yells and brutal howls, and low murmurs
Of internal satisfaction, hailed alike the murder
OF Louis Marie Antoinette, the Processes Elz-
a5eth, Charlotte Corday, and the just punish
ment of Danton, Robespierre, and their fend-
sh crew.
After leaving the Madeleine, we took de-
hghttu survey of the noble palace and gardens
Of the Tulerics and drive through the Bou-
levirdS, which surpass IN gay and animated
beauty all had imagined
We were content with an outside survey of
the gloomy prison of the Conciergerie, which
rowns with dark memories, and the guilt of
countless unexpated crimes
Yesterday we began a golden day, by driv-
ns IN the glory of matchless morning, through
The Champs EtySses, past Napoleon's magnifi-
cent Arc de Tnomphe de EEt0ile to the beau
tiul chapel OF st. Ferdinand, erected upon the
scene OF the death OF the late Duke of Orleans.
Inns contains an altar to the Virgin, over which
IL fine group of Mary and the child Jesus,
and beyond which is Descent from the Cross
10y Irlquetti. On the left is an altar dedicated
10 ~ Ferdinand, and opposite is most noble
ana touching statue of the dying Prince, with
lovely angel figure sculptured by the Prin-
cess Marie at his head, supporting him and
commendmg his soul to Heaven. Behind the
central altar is picture representing the scene
Oh ms death, with his family and friends about
MN The grief in the bowed figure of the poor
mother, hiding her face in the cushions by his
Hde Is alone deeply affecting In front of the
chapel IS building, containing several apart
ments draped in black, for the accommodation
~ the royal family on their visits to the mourn
wi spot which was the scene of an event fatal
#" their fortunes, if not to those of France
Inc room we entered contained two motion
VS. CLOCKS, cased in black marble. one marking
Vl' hour and the moment at which the Duke
w." ", unto"n from his carriage-the other, those
" WMe9 he died A touching idea, though
peculiarly French.
al no| ,'y scene OF the Dukes death, we pass
astn na' of as though following up the dis
p.Iaa.c ,'iH uoomed family, to the ruins of the
IS ~ VI Nruliiy one of the most melancholy
Ia,;' pt:, Inns iayorite summer residence of
o,J III PIPE had evidently little of the royal
bon,o n IloSihg about IT. but was quiet lovely,
,ir 'Io-nhe pace, sanctifed by much of domcs-
j. j.; n"i M',: purity and simplicity of lfe-so
Gl 49, '.'hcIioh, It's dcsOlatiOn, the more fear
"'iu ouchIng to behold The objects of
a.a,. interest IN the grounds are monument
c.ec'ed on the spot where a cannon ball frod
rum the BoiS de BouIogne, fell at the feet Of
a ':l' fhlhppe in 1890 and where a few DAVIS
a"Fr Inc crown of France was offered hin, Tho
, sa~D Of Diana of Poitiers, and the garden of
'ne young Comte de Paris e'" VI
r. from Neuilly, we drove through the Bo;s do
Js" 10 the Champs de Mars, on which
T. P'rado ground We Were 40 fortunate Ms
s.,,II' '''e'S me display of cavalry and fyinp
- from the sight of all the animated
Lnli " minnie war, we went to the Hotel DIES
MAJ, 10 behold what real war makes of
dor, ~ .ne manned, crippled, and Scared SOL
o.. '''e Empire But these brave old fight
veo,s " noble retreat for their sad declining
tbov -, Wv Seem hale, hearty, and happy, as
y.,;o, "ul talk together on the terrace in the
oy ro' ,"'',lne stroll through the fine arcades
,e'grently kneel in the chapel.
smo. .''e council chamber Of the Hotel we saw
B. majestic bust of Napoleon lie Grand by
Of ya"Iu one doubly ignoble by comparison
aa PueoH le petit, by Emile Thomas Oppo-
N,,,II'ese hangs the magnificent portrait of
bon IN ms coronation robes. Our ouide
t-r Was an old soldier and devout worsb;n.
S,noIo,ne immortal Corscan, spoke of Louis
r.nt I LOU as hIs future Emperor with anna
me PNure-almost enthusiasm. By tha wav.
As ,,'nice'rres'dent displays most strikinpiy
Ni, nnus worldly wisdom, in repairing and
aaj 80. 70 Tue palaces and churches of Paris
Erk syIousy carrying on all popular public
he ctr mus while improving and identifying
Artist Employing thousands of workmen and
chief Tho are Of course kept out of all mis-
'tp n. mere Is nothing so good AZ bread to
AID tbs ' mouths Of the politically disaiiected
ty pey, uue secret Of this Napoleon's popular.
takes ~ !" III That sublimity of mpudence which
h,dt,, ~ french like an astounding coup d.
sSd ,b n, neS IN the encouragement of labor
nent-,,lSeurity to trade given by his Govern.
large sn1 as II himself But to return. In tho
' handsome library founded by Napo.