New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1852-05-01
,.-.d .,,cnt,v Suddenly he stopped. and WITHOUT
~ snsskipg poined with his finger toward tH'

north r s,,. low
Inc II wall ninaret black dome few fai rools1i
and in the midst group OF dark, slender
Oliver, and palms. L.. ,oor The
s,sion al The wilderness moaned az her eates.
Vas 10 suburb q trees or houses she isy up9' i
Nh i; the n ist Of hills barren ss those We ha,, Pa
There were no sights or sounds OF NE. INC usu. $50
i,'s me air was still. Nature had swooned aroaau
90 4. III civ There was sound In tue ait, oasA
;l;ng In nv hesrt--"O Jerusalem jerusalem, thou
hat s,onet the prophett and hcst those ta arc semi
unto thee J"
He records his impressions Of the ritual cere-
uop;es in Jersusa.em. in glowing description OF
tn, cnuRcH or THE HOLY sEPULoHRE.
The church of the Holy Sepulchre ispos-
,e,sed BIZ the ins Greeks Arenians, Copts and Aoys-
s;usns The Gree Ks are the richest and are un1er INC
inn ediaie protection d Russia, ana they m'noP,,
all the best places in the church. except me T
itself The exterior OF the building u byzanu ~,
inferior has no architecture pr ctensi0n OF Dea'-y
wh.le middle space j. accsed, forming chs hI In
church and the inclosuTc IS inc ure ts a as,n
fyo,t a his Il the small temple built around 'e
- ;.sf md ,pon the sides OF the bfeeh cu"E az
broad pss,sces in which shown -eserH -pD7 y, ~
di,ioua interes;-as that where tne foit ~ | ,bs
s,ooIwLjch post you may sec, ana t,'t WIFI snS
isIoo ., a. divided Finally you ascend steep s'u
GO ard rescn srnell upper chapel, wnich u CavHfy,
and circular spo. under the aiar Is the exact SUE VI
The a,erior Of the church Is bare and desolae Inc
.csnt and dirty hsngings and treppng-' me nse'ls
sticQ tliCldl EC"tIsJ
r9,.ce ana del;cacy are very mounidL mere - Ho'
socu,n mot ia the building, but the tomb ltse hiov
lev crowd constantly swarrnng through ING pf'sss
and there is the perpetual shunns OF MAY icel Iu 10
Ln,o Of bu.Led voices The fncst uTes are tae bedou
go. ,.w the desert who stand in pO-tufes oil natural
grace and dignity, end who, with the Towing ropes ana
Brilliant NJ cca handkcrchieis, wreaihed around her
bea8s axe the only picturesque and pleasing groups
Tye Greek pilgrim. the most num- rous aGn en-
trey surpsss the Latin in the ervor oil their deyonons
have never any thing so AFFECT az ther conduct
~, r.. lv.p chs r,l lnlga an
lv recoppize them men, so sunken 20 they look IN
DEGRADED ignorance Their genuhexons are remarkable
for their magical supplencss. They stand, rapidly re-
respg PRAYERS before the altar, and then alI u their
kpee end upon their faces touching their ioreheads
and kissing the floor. Then up again and down. with
incredible celey This continues sometimes Tor ha,i-
hour, and they then stroil away through .ne c"oa,
buving crosses beads, and motheroipear shells made
ut Bethlehem
D,etly under the dome of the church ia the sepul-
cbre i,s.i II IL incloe ed in small temple, divided into
two parts of which the first Is anteroom, and the
other small cabinet In which Il the marble TOMB Inc
anteroom is hung with lamps and piest stands al Tue
door, shutting the crowds OF worshppe's 10 anu iro
and taking snuff in the intervals. II ne mas great re-
spect fur persons; for when appeared although nc
ssid that were heroiics he hustled an un"asned
company from the door, and greeting US ~ hnghah'
smlInaiy ufhercd US IN.
Tho sir OF the outer room was and odorous
with incense Tue ishG'l were knccing on the "oor
weeping, kissing the pavement, snd mu'en"g pt'yers
From nc interior room the pilgrims were coming OUT
backward and with bent heads They paid no attention
10 our Frank co,tuin they were wrapl IN e,nonon
We entered the interior cabinet, hal. Of which Il oc-
cupod Nv the tomb. II s covered with marble slap
smooth with the myriad ki.ses Oh generations over II
IL narrow marble h"l along which are arranged art-
fetal fowers II rs hung wiki golden lamps, priest
stands ill Mt In the corner forever, and the warn" air 10
faint with perpetual rc"nte.
Before the ,onb figure which l. among the sad
dest ia my memory. Il was an cid man, bulgarian
defolmed and covered with fcany rasf. Ills emotion
he'd passcd into hioa,rcus frenzy. Throwing him'elt
back upon his knees he contemplated the tomb WIN
streaming cyce-,hon stretched Iii arms ovc II and
laid bis face against tie marble with idiouc delight
Seized by u delriun of devotion he poured out eede.
of aspirations with Iconccivabc repiiiiy ho gra'pcd
francaly at H. tombhc tCucAcd lis forehead 70 1t
his words became bubhlng ut the nOdti-bls head
fell TO one side and he sank at iull length, motorlc'
upon the floor. The priest presently touched him He
stared wildly for moment then Using to his knees ana
clutcbing the tomb, he shuhed ont backward san
knt einc tti stretching out bis hands, covering IN"
threshold with passionate kisses and drcnchins II with
tears.
spectacle Ii WIS not the ccstacy of pctyt was the
frenzy Of superstition. The spirit which I'd sent and
torn the poor Bulgarian was the same that plunges
crowds beneath the of Juggernaut and beats druus
while children bum In the arms CT uolOch.
We turn away. The night advances. and the church
rapidly l- The brain Is dizzy With ihe incesssut GENT
fexions, crossings and kissngs every hand Wcarle
and mortified. you Tong FOR one sight one sound that
might suggest the grave serenity of Jesuswhcn
suddenly the door communicating with the convent
OpCnf, End the procession enter.
The superior OF the convent, mitred richly draped,
and beai ing ciude l. followed by all the monks. The
pous pilgrims crushing toward the priests seize lighted
tapers and swell the train II winds, morley and
strange nstude through the dim passage by the Greek
Chapel The shulins of hurryns feet ceases as they
gain the procession The m0motOnous murmur oil low
voices dies away The low responses OF the iiars end
and sublime chant pcals through the silence.
The building is overlooked with music The sol.
chords swell along the church, their majesty and
sincerity pr icng against the tsvdry doatry OF the
place Long unufed 10 music, which Is rarely heard IN
the Fact the grandeur of this old Italian chant which
first heard in ~ Peters, is douby grand Proudly it
the greatness Of God and the dignity OF man. Its
superb haImoDies scorn the superstition they arc
evoked to rl--.or what thouehiG call the
spectacle which we n, behold, worsVpt This music
OF Aogi ehantcd hy these monks, Is as spiri OF
heaven subject to Gnomcs,-ss Ariel to Caliban 1t
at their bidiug yet in coming IL does not serve
them but the euds OF ts beauty ami nature Swept
up, upon lie Gearing strains, we nSat away INTO me
cearest yion OF that life OF love and duty and Il new
20 il there The octh ct loyalty which was well nigh lost
In the church OF the Holy Scpuchrc.
Il mClis--t iails,it dies into sOer and more cyquis
tie m, dulnons. II walls around Calvary and the Sep
ulchre the winds al heaven nnay have walled
there,--soiily, so.tly-shaiLine it, use by lis
sweetness oad wooing to the worsaP In spirit and in
truth.
The procession stopped 1t each OF she stations and
the nuac pau Ing, dct in long, sweet reverbcratons
through the dsik church At each station sermon was
preached and each in different language that every
pilgrim IN the crowd might have chance OF under
standing. Then the chorus swelled asain, and with
swinging incense the crowd passed 10 the neAt
station, making altogether seven pauses.
A swarm OF early associations CHESTER around
the Howatji, entering the bare and stony hills
of Galiloc, lie approaches the remains III
NAZARETH
We wound among the hills in silence,
stumbling up one OF TIE worst paths in Palestine. and
at length quite in their heart descended usder troos
upon secluded and lovely valley. 1t dotted with
olive groves, and ouks, and cgrsna,cs WIKI groups
of Arabs and cSels. Gnd horses and iona, Hooks
The same low stony hills Ike swelling, bare up,alGs in
CLOSED H. sJd III the depths OF the valley leaning against
the mountains and holding UP welcome us iinarc:
few Expresses, and palm, lay little, gray fat rooted
Nazareth.
Tue valley was tranquil pastoral picture, and the
rocky iteep Ills grim ana melancholy. All tie