Camden journal. [volume] (Camden, South-Carolina) 1852-1852, 1852-10-12
Mount HecIa.

Mount Hecla.
The whole region at the foot of Hecla, and es-
pecially at this place. appears to be undermined
and the heavy footsteps of the peasants were
echoed in the hollow, menacing tones, such as
have never heard at Vesuvius or any where else.
These sounds appeared very awful to me when I
was alone at night, shut up in my dark retreat
My Hecla guide-I call him so to distinguish
him from the one who had accompanied me
from Reikjasick- to me that we must
be off by three o'clock. readily agreed, though
I felt very certain that it would be five before we
were in our way; and so it proved. In fact it
was past six when we were completely ready to
set out. Besides store of bread and cheese, a
bottle of water for myself, and one of brandy for
the guide, we also provided ourselves with long
sticks, ending in sharp iron point which we
were to lean upon and use to sound the snow
before we ventured to tread on it.
1t was beautiful warm morning, and we gal
Topped gayly over meadows and the adjacent
sand plains. This fine weather was considered
very favorable omen by my guide, who told
me that Mr. Geimard, the French naturalist al
ready mentioned, had been delayed three days
by storm before he could ascend the noun
tain {; this was nine years ago, and no one had
made the attempt since that time. A Danish
prince who travelled through Iceland few wears
since had been here indeed, but for some unex-
planned reason he had left the place without un-
dertaking to visit Hecla.
The road led at first, as have already said
through fields, and then across the patches Of
black sand, which are surrounded on all sides by
streams, hills and hillocks of lava, whose fearful
masses gradually approach each other, and tre-
quently afford no other passage than narrow
defle, where we scrambled over the blocks and
piles with scarcely spot to rest our feet. The
lava rolled around and behind us, and it was ne
cessary to be constantly on the watch to prevent
ourselves from stumbling, or to avoid coming in
contact with the rolling rocks But the danger
was even greater in the gorges filled with snow
already softened by the heat of the season, where
we frequently broke through, or, what was worse,
slid backward at every step almost as far as We
had advanced. | do not believe there is anoth>
er mountain in the world whose ascent offers as
many difficulties as this one.
After toilsome struggle Of three hours and a
half, we reached the place where it became ne
cessary to leave the horses behind; which l
should have done long before, as I felt compas-
sion for the poor animals, if my Hecla guide
would have allowed it; but he maintained that
there were still spots where we might need
them, and advised me, moreover, to ride as long
as possible, in order to reserve my strength for
what was still before me. Aud he was right; {;
l hardly think could have completed the whole
distance on foot for when l thought had at
toip poI tbo l.. r et,n
hillocks between me and my goal, which seemed
constantly more remote than ever. My guide
assured me that he had never led any one so far
on horseback, and 1 readily believe it. The
walking was already horrible, but to ride was
fearful.
From every heig new scenes Of the most
melancholy desolation appeared in sight; the
whole prospect was rigid and inanimate, and
burnt, black lava was spread around us wherever
we looked. 1t was not without painful SEN
sation that gazed about me- and saw nothing
but the immeasurable chaos of this stony de-
sert.
We had still three heights to climb, they
were the last, but also the most perious. The
road led abruptly over the rocks by which the
whole summit of the mountain covered; | had
more falls than could count, and frequently
tore my hands on the sharp points Of lava. 1t
was, to be sure, terrible expedition.
The dazzling whteness of the snow was al
most binding, contrasted with the shining black
lava alongside of it. When had to cross a
field of snow, did not venture to look at the
lava, for had tried it once, and could hardly
see in consequence. was snow blind.
At last the summit was attained, after two
more hours of laborious climbing, and I stood
upon the highest peak of Hecla; but looked in
vain for crater; there was no trace OF any to
be found at which was all the more astonlsh-
ed, as l had read minute accounts of it in seve-
raj books of travels.
walked around the whole summit OF the
mountain, and clambered to the jokul which lies
next to it, but still saw no opening or crevice'
no sunken wall, nor any sign whatever, IN TACT,
of a crater. Much lower down on the sioes o, ;,
the mountain l found some wide rents ana
chnks, whence the streams OF lava must nave ave
flowed. The heig ght Of the mountain Is sa'd 70
be 1900 feet. -.
The sun had been obscured during the las,
hour of our ascent, and thick clouds now rusheo
down upon lis from the neighborlng glaciers
which concealed the whole prospect from ouf
sight, and prevented our distinguishing anything
for more than ten PAGES before us. After awhile
they dissolved, fortunately not IN rain, out III