New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1852-02-21
FROM NETWORK TO NINEvEH.

XVI
FROM MEMPHIS TO sIoJr-rHE roMBs or
BENZ HASsAN-syOUr


The extent of my journey into Africa has
led me to reverse the usual plan pc,sued by
travellers on the Nile, who sail to Assysan or
Wsdi Hslfa without pause and visit the snsiqai.
ties on their return. Thus far ! have omitted
none of the important remains, and shall see all
that are in store on the way up, so that may b
able to choose another route homeward, If posi-
bic. How any one can sail TO Stout voyage Of
26O miles, with but or two points Of interest,
without taking the Pyramids with ham in memo
ry, cannot imagine. Were it not for this recol.
lection should pronounce Modern Egypt more
interesting than the Egypt of the Pharaohs and
the Ptolemies.
The Pyramids Of Dashoor followed us all the
next day after leaving Memphis. Our sailors
tugged us slowly along shore, against a mild
soutA-wind, but could not bring us out of the
horizon of those red sandstone piles. Our pa
thence was tried, that day and the next, by our
slow and toilsome progress, hindered still moro
by running aground on sand.bsnks, but wo were
pledged to patience, and had our reward. On
the morning OF the fourth day as we deserted be-
fore us the minarets of Benisouef the first large
town after leaving Cairo, a timid breeze came
rustling over the dourra.felds to the north, and
tow.rope was hauled in, our Arabs jumped on
board and produced the drum and tambourine,
singing Justify as we moved out into the middle
of the stream. The wind increased tho flag
lifted itself from the mast and streamed toward
Thebes, and Benisouef wen, by, almost before
we had counted its minarets tried in vain to
distngush.the Pyramid of Illahoon, whoAs lands
inland at the base OF the Libyan Hills and the en-
trance OF the pass leading TO the Lake of Fyoom,
the ancient Mers. Near the Pyramid are the
foundations of the famous Labyrinth, lately OK.
cavated by DR.. Lepsius. The Province of Fyoom,
surrounding the lake, is, with the exception Of
the Gases in the Libyan Desert, the only pro-
ductive land ives, of the mountains bordering tho
Nile.
All afternoon with both sails full and our ves
sell leaning against the current, we flew before
the wind. At dusk the town of Feshu appeared
on our left at midnight, we passed Abou-Girgeh
and the Mounds of Behnesa, the ancient Oxy-
rinchus and when the wind left us, at sunrise,
we were seventy miles from Benlsouef. The Ara
bian Mountains here approach the river, and Mt
two points terminate in abrupt precIpices OF
yellow calcareous rock. At Gebel Tayr,
where we were boarded by the Coptic monks.
the birds of Egypt according to an Arabic legend)
assemble annually and choose one of their num-
Der to remain there for year. My friend COM
planned that the wild geese and ducks were not
and out of revenge fired at a CON-
pany of huge pelicans, who were seated on
sand. bank The next morning, before reaching
Minyeh the second large town, and the capital
of a Province, we passed an English boat which
had loft Cairo two days before ne. Its inmate
a Young man of twenty, was on his way to kar-
toum, with courier and dragoman, but believe
has postponed his Journey till next winter.
The drum and tambourins kept lively time 10
the voices of our sailors, as we approached
Minyeh But the song this time had peculiar
significance After the long drawn sound, some
thing between howl and a groan, which ter
minated it, we were waited upon by deputa.
ton, who formally welcomed us to the city We
responded by backshish OF twenty five piasters,
and the drum rang louder than ever.
We stayed in Minyeh long enough to buy leg
of mutton, and then sailed for the tombs of Benz
HdSSan. ne WlLu iClt 10 40 VIC ieoShc' SHPOa~
palm grove, which for several miles skirts the
foot of Gebel Schekh Timay. The inhabitants
are in bad odor, and in addition to our own guard.
we were obliged to take two men from the vii
lage, who came armed with long sticks aud built
a fire on the bank, beside our vessel. This 10
regulation of the Government, but have as yet
seen no reason for it, We rose at dawn and
war dered for hours through the palms. to the
verge of the Desert. When within two or three
miles of the mountain of Benl-Hassan, we pro-
yided ourselves with candles, water-fasks and
weapons. and set off in advance Of our boat.
The Desert here reached the Nile, terminating
in bluff thirty to forty feet In hight, which IL
composed of layers of pebbles and shelly SAND,
apparently the deposit OF many successive floods.
should have attributed this to the action OF the
river. cutting deeper channel from year to year,
hut believe it is now acknowledged that the
bed of the Nile Is gradually rising, and that the
yearly inundation covers a much wider space
,han in the time of the Pharoahs. Ii Is diifcult
to reconcile this fact with the very perceptibis
entertainments which the sand Is making on the
Libyan shore but we may at least be satisfied
that the glorious harvest-valey through wnicn
the river wanders can never be wholly efaced
thereby
We climbed to the glazing level of the Desert,
carving with us the plumes of beautiful gray
heron which my friend brought down. soil.
tary Arab horseman was slowly moving along
the base of the arid hills, and We descned In the
distance light. footed gazeIe, which leisurely
kent aloof and Knocked our efforts TO surround It.
Az the foot Of the mountain we passed TWO fu'
med villages, destroyed several years ago oy
Ibrahim Pacha, on account of the maraudIns
propenslties of the inhabitants 1t has cIusl
sound, when you are told that the people were
driven away and their dwellings razed 70 tue
ground, but the reality is trlhing matter ine
Arabs take their water skins and pottery jump
irto the Nile. aWim across 70 safer pace, A"-