New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1852-05-08
he TO him. We were slowly ascending noun
tain. All at once, on turning 70 the east, we behsld

AN exten i've plain, terminated by steep ascent,
and al the same moment, an icy wind came over
me- and made us shake under our Pc
Isses Still we went unmindflil OF what
awaited US In traversing the wide PLAIN, the
wind. constantly increasing, chilled us so that we
could hardly breathe hold the brddle. but
when we begun the ascension, each of Us felt OF
sudden that we had before a struggle for life or
death. At each step the horses, walking IN
narrow path on the edge of precipice, sank IN the
snow lower than their knees. One of our COM
,,;ops horse put his foot out Of the PATH sunk in
~, snow. fell, and buried his rider under him in
ri /. Others assisted him, and man and beast
no got up, but the cold had so seized on our
o companion that he recovered afterward with
~, At difficulty from nervous spasm caused by
ii, mishap. As for me- | felt my hands fast going
on, acute pain invading my whole Frame Just at
the most perlous point, some yards before the sum-
NIT. we met or rather reached Turkish party,
consisting of three men, one woman, some COWS,
calves and donkeys. The human beings were en-
deavoring TO persuade the animals to 60 on; but
as they employed no percmptOry arguments, they
were rather unsuccessful, and had stopped, bar
ring the path and waiting the pleasure oil the
beasts. This was a last stroke for us, w1o mad
used our utmost efforts to quickly gain the sum-
NIT of the dreadful mountains. We shouted to
the Turks to proceed, but our cries were lostn
the noise of the wind and of our dogs, who believ-
ing us lost. stood around us, bowling and complain
ing loudly. | confess that for one moment
| thought myself lost. rapidly ascertained that
nv daughter was close by me, then wrapping my
| head in an Aleppisn cloak, buried my face IN
NV Ian. recommended us all to the Lord of the
| wilderness and abandoned myself to the gui-
dance of my horse. | soon felt the poor animal
striving to 90 round the obstacles which shut the
way before him. He would leave the path, sink in
the snow, and struggle to maintain himself upon
the steep side of the mountain. After some mo-
ments of dreadful anxiety, felt that he had taken
the path again, and was going on moreeasily then
he was upon level ground; the sun shone upon US
again. and in a few moments more we began to
descend the opposite side, and the chilling wind
was changed into a mild one. drew myself up,
uncovered my head saw my daughter by me, and
behed slight column of smoke rising at some yards
distance. "There you shall warm yourselves"
said the guide pointing to little hut situa ted at
the bottom of the first descent We were in great
need of it. The vitality of my hands was still
most probematical question; but my own suf-
ferngs were but trhe compared with those of
our unhappy companion, who joined us at the hut,
pale and trembling, tears starting from his eyes,
wrnging his hands in despair, and declaring HIM
self incapable of bearing it any longer. The heat
of the place made the pain still keener, but after
some time it subsidized, and we began to consider
ourselves as once more safe.
From that day forward we had nothing more to
complain of the elements. Though travelling con-
stantly in the and among mountains, in
inhabited country, where no shelter is tobe found
we had nothing to suffer, except from weariness
| hope travelling in Syria and Palestine viii be de-
lightful, but can warrant you that travelling in
Asia Minor is very different affair. The country
from Angora to Cesarea, though Gallacia and
Cappadocia is the most barren the most monOto-
nous and desolate in the world. You travel days
and days without discovering single tree, and the
ground around you rises and sinks alternately
with a regularity that battles the stirring of the
most vivid Imagination. There must be pasture
fields somewhere or other, since the Dhabt-
ants of the country, the Trcomons, have no
other industry but the rearing of large focks of
heep, cows and horses but in winter time, where
no artificial irrigation is adopted, the grass is
turned into straw, and besides, there extensive
mOOrs which must want greenness in summer as
we'll as in winter. When you have ridden the
whole day in such melancholy scenery, when the
'atigue of the eye and of the mind makes you I'M
Bile to bear the fatigue Of the body, upon what
comforts can you relyl Do you expect kind
eastern greeting, quiet night, and hospitable
welcome No such thing, assure you. You ar
rive in miserable viage-a collection of pitfu
huts built of stones and mud, because wood is not
to be found The inhabitants of these huts run to
hide their goods and provisions while children and
dogs. scream after you, staring and grinning, till
the Zappetes (half guards and half gudes) with
their powerful whips disperse the crowd, and COM
pei the hiders Of treasures to bring them out again.
to open the doors of their huts and to surrender
the less uncomfortable to you. These huts are
nothing more than stable, part of which, being
little more elevated than the rest, and having the
benefit of chimney, is prepared for your You
have the satisfaction of sleeping your horses,
of hearing them all night kicking and biting each
other, and of breathing an atmosphere which may
be sutedto weak lungs, but is not agreeable. The
dawning of morning is a relief after a sleepless
night, but relief which does not restore your
strength, and after one or two weeks of such a
life you feel your power of endurance great
ly reduced. The bill-paying moment, previous
to that of departing, is not the most cheering
of all. The whole village falls upon you for
bakshish. One has fetched your pipe, and another
has held your horse whilst you dsmounted this
is the owner Of your lodgings; that has provided
you with bread, with milk and eggs. Last even
ing they yielded their house and their eatablcs to
force; this morning they beset you with protesta-
tons oflove and regard, Of past services and pre-
sent devotion. You pay all and give To all and