Weekly national intelligencer. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1841-1869, 1852-03-13
Written for The National h,telligeacsr BY Citizen
of Washington.
MrssrsA, Sicily, JANUARY 81, 1852.


Of Washington.
MEssISA, Sicily, JANUARY 81, 1852.
This Is my second visit to Messina, after an abb
sence of something more than three months. 1t is
the first tolerably civilized place have for such
a length of time that it quite reminds me of home,
and suggests the idea of few notes Of Scilian ad
venture Now, if can remember sufficient of the
English language, after the abominable jargon of
tongues to which have been subjected in the East,
you shall have four hundred miles Of Sicily, nclud-
ing Mount Etna, ip the briefest possible space. A
pleasant rambe from Florence to Rome by the way
Of Arezzo Peruga, and the Falls of Fen sojourn in
Naples emitting of course Mount yesuvus Pompei,
and Herculan cum rambles in Malta, Greece the islands
of the Cyclades Smyrna and Constantinope ride Of
thirty forty days through Syria and Palestine, with
hasy explorations Of the Dead Sea and the Jordan and
glance at Alexandria and Egyptian life on the way
back have fully occupied my time since the date of my
last On my return to Florence hope to have few
weeks leisure and to be rather in the vicinity of
post Offices when you may look for something better
than can send you now.
The Neapotan steamer for Palermo, in which took
passage from Naples good specimen Of the Italian
steam service that is to say, it the smallest and
drtiest and worst contrived craft ever afoat.
There were board two hundred and fifty Neapoltan
badly contred in all respects If any should ever
do serious injury wish him greater punishment
than be twenty hours in this very boat with two
hundred and fifty soldiers board and strong wind and
heavy sea to keep them well mixed The scene below
will not pretend to describe; on deck it is concatena-
ton of heads mousachios legs heels and swords won
derfu to behold. In place you huge pile Of
men asleep; in another whole broadside of saow fell
lows seasck to alarming degree two feet Of unappro
prated deck scarcely be found fore aft and to
promenade at night if you undertake it you to
stumble misplaced boot with leg in i, and fall
on sick soldier.
The voyage from Naples to Palermo is usullly per-
formed in about twenty hours Owing rough weather.
it took twenty-five. Next to Naples, the haibor of
Palermo is perhaps the beautiful in the Medterra-
Indeed many consider it quite equal in picturesque
effect to Naples for although it has not Mount Vesyius
the breadth and extent of shore ine yet the eye
prehends more at glance and nearer approach is per-
mted without destroying the scenic beauty of the
tains and villas. AT sufficient distance to embrace
complete view of Naples and its envrons the city is al
most lost but the finest view of Palermo is just opposite
the town, within mile two The harbor form
beautiful crescent surrounded by hills covered with
dure throughout the greater part of the year villas md
orange groves adorn every prominent point rich gardens
lie along the shores; vessels of many nations foat
crowded with sunburnt crews ply merily through the
flashing brine and along the wharves groups of swthy
Sailors quite like the piraticallooking fellows you
the French prints, constantly ounging smoking,
chatting in impraccable tongues and casting sly dances
at the Sclan bellies who look like operate chorr-sng
and then there pale Italians without numir and
occasional Greeks; with sprnking of Turks fresh
looking English captains to give variety and animation
to the There is aspect of business ACTIVITY about
the streets and shops Of Palermo not little ceering
after has been Wondering for time ammg old
ruins and cities of bygone prosperity Yet Palermo is
not what it might be under judcous system of GOVERN
ment hold myself in readiness apologize orthe
mark when called upon, to his majesty the King the
two Sicies and to declare if required that the Neapo
Titan States well governed; that the people are well
governed; that many soldiers and So much
governing in all my life. Every man to be per-
sonay and individually governed and so careful his
Majesty of the faithful administration of the laws and
the parsnnaI sec,ritr of his biAess that isca-
tons of extend into every family circle and
wind every body up in invisible web that cannot
but always felt The stranger who lands at Paer-
mo- and succeeds in getting through the Pozia will re-
spect good government all the rest of his life have
very pleasing impression of the officer in attendance
there He opened my knapsack when he heard speak
English because he knew must be an Englishman to
address him in that language; he opened my letters
by one and carefully read Them commencing at the sig
natures and ending at the dates and when he saw
was not Mr.. Gladstone, and had printed documents
private circulation among the people of Sicily he
me kindly nod and let me pass. Now, depend upon
that officer, as Of honor to divuge the con-
tents of my letersespecally that was written in
German and some private memoranda in shorthand.
The streets of Palermo wider than those of the
principal cities in Italy, and at night the shops present
very cheerful appearance Cafes abound in all the pub
lie places, but there equal to the cafes in Flo
renee visited during my stay the magnificent villa
the Marquis Fourche which embeshed in the style
Pompeian palace, with fountains and interior decora-
tons designed strictly according to the antique models
found in the ruins of Pompei The mosaic marble sa-
looms, rescos and general arrangement the chambers
also the style Of the furniture afford very good idea
Of Pompe in its days of spendor 1t was fiesta day in
Palermo so went to all the churches worth seeing and
heard some good music Mt the Santa Catherine Coming
from Italy surfeited with Sights OF this kind
but still found much to interest me in Palermo where
something of different architectural order may be seen
There is no Murray, however enghten one in Sicily
and the guides sadly deficient in their arttica and
historical researches All that can find in reference
to Palermo is contained in little work written in
French by the Marquis Artala about years ago. and
published in Milan; to which indebted for most Of
the information have been ableto obtain.
Palermo the capital Of Sicily contains at present no
puaon Of about two hundI ed thousand and is the resi-