Weekly national intelligencer., 1851-10-18
NATIONAL INTELLIGENCER.
NOTES OF TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD.
Written for the National Iateligencer by Citizen
Of Washington.
FLORENCE, AUGUST, 1851.

Of Washington.
FLORENCE, AUGUST, 1851.
With all the advantages Of fine spring weather,
must confess Twas greatly disappointed in my frs
impressions of Florence. The approach along the
valley Of the Arno is rather pretty, yet one cannot
help thinking that something much finer must be in
reserve. Accustomed as we are in the United
States TO luxuriant growth of woods and abun-
dance of shade around our houses, nothing can be
more desolate than the rows of clipped trees thai
stand like lines of sentinels around the fields and
villas in the vicinity of Florence and indeed Throughout,
Northern Italy The effect is relieved in by
fssoons Of grape vines and on the mountain les by wind
ing roads and yet in spite OF The beauties after
wards discovered, the first sight pleasing You
any reminded that Nature has had very little to do with
the scenic eff of The county You look in vain for
natural copse Of wood irregular field upon which to rest
your eye you think if the river Arno walled up at
30 sides and conducted in straight line, like canal or
raosd through straight Of trees might be pretty
that the mountains would be picturesque they were
not shaved and dotted with white houses, and cut in
slices hy walled roads in Short it would be relief if you
could only spot where you could hide yourself from the
glare of the sum- and deude yourself with the idea ths Ma
had formed IT, Perhaps my impressions, however,
general they may be owing in degree hav-
ing travelled parts the world where civilization has made
but little progress. As passed through the immense old
gate Of San Fredisno looked around and thought Sure
'Iy this is not florence the Fair 1t be somewhere
further This dingy old street, with its filthy shops and
foul corners its pIisonks houses and beggry population
must be one of the suburban alleys But the vetturno
drove through dark of the city till be reached ho
tel the Duomo, sighed think that was Indeed Flo
entirely different from what all written and verbal
descriptions ad led expect II seemed if the tourists
and gudebooks had conspred impose upon the creduty
of people at home. The very had possessed charm
to from early youth had thought OF Florence city
Of fine airy Streets winding egulay gentle slopes of
terraces and gardens, and fower, of white marble palaces
adorned with showeng fountains of quiet hooks and plea
shades where could sit down and dream of Michael
Angelo and Raphael, Titan, Rsubens, and all the great
masters of art in the mellow atmosphere made classic by
their works where the music Of Beni, and Rosin, and
Donize would fall soohingly upon the ear, mingled with
The soft ripping of the Arno where every gentle maid that
pped upon the green vision dear for earth where
all that art could produce filled the atmosphere with
ambrosial dor, that the beholder must
-"gszs and turn away, aud know not where,
Dazzled and drunk with beauty, TIL the heart
Reels with its fslness."
Alas, for the dreams Of youth! Don Quixote was not
about the fair Florence Yet in spite of ALL smeIled
the garlic city of streets, Of high gloomy
houses dark old walls and barred windows every dwelling
fortified prison the Arno filthy and Insignificant stream
not flower be behind the iron bars Of the win
dows the stone paved Streets without shrub eaAe parch
ed with the glare Of relentless sun the classic atmosphere
filed not with the music Of Rossin the ambross odor of
art but thick with the filth of reekng alleys and dark dens
nkpys men. anduu hovd
animals Of kindred nature resoundng with the harsh cries
of vegetable and fish monges spot to relieve the
eye nothing to revive for single moment the dream of ro
nance The cham gone and with il the eeting ioy It
gave 1t is impossible to see Florence as maoinaon
has pictured it. Time may accusom person 10 the
gloomy aspect Of the Streets and experience will develop
many beauties in the ancient buildings and solemn gran
deur in the old palaces, which first appeared like i'm
mense prisons but the spell Of enchsntment broken At
the first sight Never sgsn the oFIorence bring
with the glowing visions, the dreamy, happy inspiration
OF that ideal CRY which held cherished place in the
feaims Of fancy.
must confess my enusiasm for ancient at suffered scme-
thing Of similar check The galleries Of the Ufzzi and Of
the Pitt Palace DID not produce the overwhelming effect
which thought they would. | in them great many
bad paintings and good Ones but none that filled my
them Ny artist frieads 10 whom spoke II the disappont-
ment rssd that this always the case with those who
sFee cot iaar with the beauties and the mysteries of art
Lat better knowledge of the works Of the great masters
would change my views that they require TO be studied lone
and the eye become educated before they be 1ppe
cia,ed Short that the mind Of the behoer be ele
waited certain stsndsrd before he form any idea of
them.
Now, admit that appears like presumption to disparage
what the judgment Of mankndor sges has pronounced good
vet rs have not yet arrived that exalted state of mind
which they say necessary for appreciation of true art will
give you canddy my impressions, not expecting Of course
that my poor judgment will do the least injury any body
After pretty careful study Of the best works n all the gae
Of Europe feel entirely convinced that deal Of
has been written about the old masters and that
there quite much genius the world there
was and great deal taste. 1t is fashionable
say So but help if he thinks so, which Just
with i think there is better and purer
than there in old times that artists Of day
would be ashamed make such monsosiies exhibit
cd in the celebrated galleries Of the choice gems of
antiquity YET artists will say So because they afraid
it be regarded presumption Connosseurs will
say because is always safer 10 adhere the
tive SIDE Hence if all the merits Of every living artist
were coucensed in work. it would be pronounced in
ferior to something VIII ch had preceded it, Michael Angelo
understood this principle in human thoroughly, when
he mulsed por ion Of his Bscchus and Fswn made the
work antique by buryng it in the ground, and had the sa
facon when was dug ur Of bearing il praised by his
most nveteae of the finest specjmens of the