The daily union. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1845-1857, 1851-08-16


The first view OF Naples. il meets The eve Of The
traveller who approaches il by the road from Rome is
once the most picturesque and peculiar that can be I'M
agned lor really seems the great lazy city, after
gently sliding down from the surrounding heights had
paused upon the amphheare which encirces the bay 10
balance itself and kiss the spar king waters The tab
leau presented aspect still more enchanting if nos
slble, to the visiter who follows The Strada NuoUa a
street opened by Mura. until he reaches small chapel
which stands upon the left OF the town. at about half a
leagues distance This route is worth remembering for
the Positions who drive you the spot are in The habit
OF taking the old road, which is trhe shorter and in SO
doing deprive you of the thrilling first impression caused
by this magnificent landscape it bursts upon your
view
Arrived the chapel you behold upon the right perch
ed upon terraces, the above the other the white
buildings OF the city, which, n,espersed with gardens
and lawns. fountains and trees, to cling 10 The
mountain side, under the protection OF the Castle OF st
Elmo, with which II is crowned Before you is spread
the surface OF The nobest BAY in the world out of
which in the distance arises The gray and rocky isle Of
Capri. The whole shore is lined with villas; so tha,
the brilliant Naples and the lovely Sorrento (Which lies
at the foot OF the lofty blue mounains) form in appear
ance but single city while the left Vesuvus like
an evil gen Iowns upon the and threatens de-
the vineyards and gardens which encrcle it with
belt OF perpetual verduIe.
But these only few out of the thousands of beau
ties of which Naples has TO boast viewed from any
point, examined any quarter it presents charms ever
fresh and 1t is vast caravansary of etes
and entertainments and The grea, business and occupation
of It's inhabitants is the pusu, of pleasure AT every
step you meet women Of bewi,ching beauty, whose
dreamy and ndolent gances still full of latent fire
men whose pale counlenances and classic features
lighted up by black eyes OF sparkling brightness, and
overriding by long locks OF hue crowds OF laza
ron gay and sombre, in the perfect ruon of the dolce
far niene, and whole population in the enjoyment OF
all the freedom and noise and confusion, Of life
out OF doors.
AS promenade, by day by night give the Srada
de Toledo. To my eye it is exhausess bazaar for the
exhibition Of costume and character. The entire volume
of lie in Naples is there spread out before you chapter
and verse; and there you read it, study it, and admire
have no idea of transcribng to do so would require
another volume and to sketch in lie-lke colors
tenth part OF what seemed 10 most remarkable would
require time, space, and per chance ability, than
have at command.
By mig hit the Strada de Toledo is brilliantly iIlumi.
mated the gorgeous equpages OF the nobility rattle
the pavement while scarcely less loud SQUAD the foot
steps OF an incalculable number of pedestrians, the
songs OF the s,rong musicians and the cries Of the vend
ers OF fruits and vegetables; crowds in and out OF
the brightly lighted coffee houses and drinking saloons
the doors of the lottery offices and gambling shops
equally lhronged by thousands of poor devils intent upon
risking their last coin upon the hazard of die while in
every lounge the lazaroni, playing or de-
vouring the everlasting macaron In the daym this
street, which is than mile in ieng tn. resembles
great fash flesh, and fowls Of every variety, fruits,
vegetables and melons, displayed seemingly inter-
minabe stalls shops for the sale Of every description OF
merchandise stand inyitingy open on every hand ex-
change Offices with their gerng piles of gold and sill
yer; jewellers shops, radiant with priceless gems and
costly plate and studios and galleries. with their nyalu
able OF ART tempt the passerby al every step.
II HON n thn.t 3 shp
the splendid views the lovely bay of Naples, that
my intention call your attention at present il 10
individual whom more extraordinary and unofe-
train OF circumstances had forced to seek her shores
and with whom | casually became a fellow .iodger at the
Hotel Vittoria. The morning after my arrival at that
fine house of entertainment. found to my surprise, the
carriage way, which led from Its courtyard to the street.
filled with Neapotans OF the lower ORDER who were
staring the group OF negro slaves dressed in the Turk
sh costume. Occasionally officer with turban
his head and cimetar by his side would pass in or out
and in doing, would receive the cheers and saluta
tons OF the crowd My curiosity excited by the
appearance OF these unusual vsiters it much
aayed when, in answer 10 my inquiries, informed
that large part of the hotel occupied by the ex
Dey OF Agers and his suite Thenceorward became en-.
rolled in the vast army OF the curious though sense of
propTley, mingled with certain degree of respect for
the fallen, deferred from manilesng my nquisitiye-
in the INSCRIPTIONS and at times offensive manner
practsed by tue Ntapoitans. FROM morning till night
every vantage spot, which commanded view of that
wing of the hotel which had been converted into a tenn
porary seraglio, held tenacously by some Italian
dandy, ANXIOUS TO catch stray glance from the eye of
ONE imprisoned Georgian or Circassian while the
streets and lanes which under the windo We of the
apartments appropriated 10 the dehroned prince and his
officers filled with the barouches OF the Neapotan
fair, DESTROYS 10 display their charms the gaze OF the
proud Moslem and his followers.
But slender attended the efforts OF these in
truders of either The Georgians and Crcassians
if any there in the barem OF Hussen, were too
closely watched 10 allow their male admirers even the
most transient, glimpse of their loneliness while the
naughty Pasba preferred to smoke his pipe with solemn
dignity in retired apartment al the Of the hotel out
OF sight and out Of hearing of the inhdes Without any
indecorous attempts 10 pry into the domestic arrange
menls OF our interesting neighbors, | was much more
fortunate the qualification OF my curiosity The same
balcony which was accessible through the windows OF
the Deys private saloon open those of the room
which had been allotted TO me. | was in the habit Of
ing the air daily and smoking my cigar in front OF my
own premises My Ottoman neighbor did The same A
grave sautaton all that passed between us when we
met. But propinquity afforded an abundant op.
poruniiy not only Tor personal observation, but mas
much understood the Turkish language ,oeraby well
occasionally let me into their views OF their own position
and OF surrounding circumstances.
Ia person the Dey differed entirely from any precon
ceiyed notion had formed Of him, and quite as much
from any pen pencil portrait had come across
The grzzy-gray beard and the cold blue eye, of some
what cruel expression, there is true but for the
magnificent Eastern despot with his look OF ferocious
daring his urbaD of the finest Cashmere his caftan of