The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1851-01-04

Before fave Boston, let me add one 0bs-rva-
Hotel, which was admirably eondactea, Ike YER,
many Of those imposing establishments in the chef
cities of the Union Here learned that one is ap
to receive false impressions at first; was struck
with the clean, orderly, agile appearance OF the
walters. "The Americans beat us hollow in
ers," was my inner thought. On inquiry, found
that Of the % walters in the house, four were
that large number of Irish might come and be
walters here for little lille.
Within three or four days Of my landing, grew
impatient TO the Falls of Niagara without loss of
time. II any sudden event should have summoned
me home, felt how much should have grudged
crossing the Arlantc without having been at MIA
CARA and also wished TO look upon the autumn
tints Of the American forest, before the leaves,
aresdy beginning to fall, had entirely disappeared.
The Western Railway, which appeared to me the
best constructed that ! raw in America, took me
TO Albany, distance of two hundred miles The
railway carriages, always there called cars con-
sist of long rooms, rather like the dining Of
steam packet, with stove inside, often most de-
sirable addition in an American winter; and you
change your seat or walk about, as you choose,
They are generally rougher than our railways, and
the whole getting up OF the line is of ruder and
cheaper character. They do not impede the view
so much as with us, as they make no scruple of
dashiDg across or alongside Of the main street, in
the towns and villages through which they pass
but ought 10 remark about this, as about every.
thing BESIDES that the work OF progress and trans
formation goes on with such rapidity, that the in.
terva Of eight years since my visit, will probably
have made large portion OF my remarks thorough.
ly obsolete.
The New England country, through which we
passed. looks cheerful, lnterspersed with frequent
villages and numerous churches, havisg the marks
at The same time, of the long winter and barren
soil with which the stout puritan blood of Britain
has so successfully contended; indeed, the only
staple producIIens OF district which supplies sea-
men tor all the Union, and ships all the world,
are said 10 be ice and granite.
Albany is the ccptal OF the State OF New York,
the Empire State its inhabitants love to call ii,
and II is name which it deserves as fairly ever
Old Yorkshire would deserve TO be called the en-
pre- county of England. 1t is rather imposing
town, rising Straight above the Tendre river, gay
with some silded domes, and many white marble
columns, only they are TOO frequently appended to
houses of very staring red brick. From Albany to
Utica the railroad follows the stream Of the Mo-
hawk, which recalls the name OF the early Indian
jewellers in that bright valley, still retaining its
swelling outline of wood covered hills but gay with
prosperous villages and busy cultivation. / was,
perhaps, still more struck the next evening" though
il was more level country, where the railway
passes in the midst of the unceared or clearing
forest, and suddenly bursts out of a fine glade or
ceder swamp into the heart of some town, prooa-
bly, four, three, or two years old with tail white
houses, well lighted shops, billiard rooms, nc;
ana emerging, as we did, from the dark shadows
and porticos ofhe infant cities, looked every bit
If they been hewn out of the marble quarries of
Canada. am aware that 1t IS not the received
opinion but there is mething, both in the out
ward aspect of this region, and on the general state
OF society accompanying II, which to me seemed
emnently poetical. What can be more striking or
stirring, despite the occasional rudeness OF the
farms, Than all this enterprise, energy, and life,
swelling up in the desert!
AT the towns of Syracuse, of Auburn, and of
Rochester, exps rie need the sort OF feeling which
takes away ones breath; the process seems going
on before ones eyes, and one hardly knows
whether 10 think il as grand as the Had,
quaint rs en- Harlequin farce. ! will quote the
words wrote down al the time:-
Ia mt. fnrv uaAi a1nnl
come, ia make ms feel myself warranted in forming
speculaons upon the results upon the guarantees for
future endurance and stability; all that can do
IL mark and to marvel at what ia before my eyes
do not think deficient in relish for antiquity and
association. 1 know that am English; not in pig
headed adhesion to verything there but in heart
it, last tsob; yet cannot be unmoved and caous to
the soarii OF Young America in such legitimate aud
lsuds bic directions too and feel that 1t Is already
not the lfsst bright, and may be the most enduring
it'll of my country to the homage of mankind that
them we'll for his own high glory.
/ am bound here IN candor to state, that | think
what tifst saw Ia America was, with little ca
CO lion, the best in it's knd-such was the society
OF Bas ol-such was the energy of progress in the
western portion Of the State oi New York
AT Roch, tier AZ odd coincidence occurred TO
striking eDSngh, / think, TO be mentIoaed,
thou1h II only concerned myself After the ar
rival ot the railway cars, and the usual copious
meal Of tea and meat that ensues, had been walk.
iag about the town, which dates only from lSl2,
AID then coniaiLtd 20 900 inhabitants, aud, as |
was turning To the hotel, ! saw the word
Thsare' written up. Wishing to SEE every
'h ny Ia new county, climbed up some steep
sairs, INTO what was little better than I garrett
wi ere | fout rude theatre, md ruder tudieoce,
c, insisting chiefly Of boys, who took delight ia
peiung one another. There was something, how.
ever, at which hai right TO feel surprised La a
play house oi stroilers, at town nearly 500 miles
in the interior of America, which thirty years
before had no existtnct-.hus coming in by the
meIest chance, | saw upon the drorscene the
meet accurate Representation of my own house,
Nsworth Castle, IN Cumberland.
a great Improvement has recently occurred IN
the nomenclature ut this district; formerly too
classical surveyor Of the State ct New York had
chfiste ned use wrong term--hsd heather sed,
70 make a new one, all the young towns aud vii
lagos by the sipgulary inappiicabe titles OF Uucd
Ithaca. Palmyra, Rome /; they are now reverlng
Ia the tar more appropriate, ana, should say, more
harmonious lheau names, indigenous 10 the soil,
su, h AS Oneida, Onondaga, NC
thought my errivai AZ Niagara very exciting
We had come ~ Lockpor where there Is chan
II magnificent locks OF the Erie canal, one Vt the
great public works At America, end which h IS
doGe much TO enrich the empire State OF New
York the surplus Or the receipts enabled them 10
execute variety oi other public works. We ar
rived too late for the usual public conveyance
The proprietor Of the st9ge coach egreed to give
me, with one or two other Englishmen, lumver
wagon 10 convey Us 10 the Fails. The colonel, Tor
he was one, as FOUND the dnvrrs Oi the coaches
often wee. dr,vc his team o. -four horses himsslf
/ generally found tie stage coach driving 10 the
United Ssat.s indf scrihaby rough, but the drives
yer, sdroit ia Their steerage, AMI always calling
their hofses by their names, and addressing
them as reasonable beings, to which they seemed
quite 10 respond Altogether, the sirangeness
ct the vehicle, the cloudless beauty of the
night the moonlight streaming through the forest
Rades, the meeting of party of the TuScsvaral a
diens, who still have settlement here, the hrst
hearing the noise OF Niagara, about seven miles oil,
and the growing excite ment ofthe nearer approach,
gave 10 the whole drive most stirring and enjoy
able character. When | arrived at The hotel, the
Cataract House, would not anticipate by any moon
light girpses the first disclosures OF the coming
day, but reserved my first visit for the clear light
aud freshened feelings Of morning ] stayed five
days al Niagara on that occasion; visited II again
twice, having travelled several thousands Of miles
In each interval. have thus looked upon IL IN the
late autumn, in the early spring, an1 IN the full
summer Mrs Butler, IN her charming work on
America, when she comes to Niagara, saYs only,
"Who can q, scribe that sight 7" and with these
words hnishes her work There j. not merely the