New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1851-01-25

no we began 10 distinguish dimly the base OF
Ischia; for the summit was plunged in a mass oil
black clouds Then doubtful outline OF rocks
,trugeled through the vapor to the left; and at
Length we got into the pass, guessed at the form
oftbe promontory, obtained a vague glimpse OF
procida. and fairly entered the famous bay. All
the elements of its beauty showed family through
= moving vapor that thickened aloft into driv-
ing clouds. Capri looked like a cone of dark
mist lingering to the south the island we had
passed dimmed away in our rear. Bays and
creeks innumerable ran in, to the left between e
strange mixture Of rocks and vegetation. This
was all we could see at FIRST; bat the lower hal
of Vesuvius soon showed itself and presently
the curtain of mist was drawn hastily aside, just
70 give us glimpse as 1t were, OF the giant peak
family pencilled against the leaden sky, into
which its wreath Of smoke faded away, and oil
the reaper of Castel Mare, aud the craggy prom
ontory Of Sorrento. Then all was covered again !
and q thin driving shower filed the air. Not a
single CLEAN of sunshine gilded the scene; but d!
once distinguished the orb, shorn oil its beams,
poised over the depths of the bay.
First impressions are everything. whenever
try to recall the allfamous site, it always begins
bv presenting itself under this aspect-not with
ont its grandeur it is true-but far inferior to the
bright and sunny scenes | witnessed when, pro-
ceeding further under more favorable auspices,
made acquaintance with the coasts OF Calaorla
and the immortal Straits of Messna- w lth a
little patience, however, | can figure TO mysei
the Bay OF Naples in all the loveliness which 1t
afterward displayed and when the operation Is
complete the contrast becomes interesting
i shall say nothing about the castles OF 81
Elmo and Del Ovo; nor of the useless fuss about
granting pTdtique; nor OF an attempt made 20 en-
trap US into smuggling by worthy who had some
silks to land; nor of the annOyances OF the Gus
tom-house II is not my intention to take the
bread out of the mouths Of the tourists These
- I houo IN a
little incident which does not happen to every
one who visits Naples; and cannot there be
accused Of trespassing upon anybodys ground
What l say about scenery and manners must
merely be considered as a setting to the diamond
am willing to concede superiority in this respect
TO any one who may claim it.
We lodged in the Hotel de la Belle Venlse, SIT
uated halfway up a steep street-name not men.
toned in my jourDal-leading from the lower end
of the Strada Toledo. We were bent on travel
ing cbeaply, and did not think four carlineS day
too dear for room. This hint is not Intended as
information to any who may follow in our loot
steps but it illustrates our character and posi-
ton, and explains why in the course of our wan
behring's we were always meeting with strange
adventures. A man may travel from Dan to
Beersheba in firstclass carriages OF railways,
coupes of diligences, saloons OF steamers; he may
put up at the best hotels and hire the cleverest
guides, and he will see nothing, learn nothing,
feel nothing, but what has been seen, learned, and
felt by his predecessors. But we defy even the
shyest Englishman to undertake the tour of Eu-
rope on economical principles, unless he be posi-
lively determined to keep his eyes and heart as
close shut as his pocket, without bringing back
something to make his eyes grow dim when he
meditates on it, bis lips tremble when he speaks
of it, his hand fater when he writes oft. For In
this system Of travelling he is forced while in
mood of mind highly susceptible Of impressions,
into contact with all sorts of characters and incl
dents; and if he has a spark of nature in him. 1t
must be struck out. 80
We dined the first evening at the Irattorla dell
Frrole. and took an ice at the Cafe oil Europa
Bot our heads were in disagreeable whirl, and
we enioyed nothing. We missed the creaking and
the grooming of the Maria Christina for which
the rumbing of O few carriages, and the buzz OF
voices on the promenade, seemed-such Is the
force of habit-an insignificant compensation,
Lines of well-lit shops, crowds OF well-dressed
people, balconies filled with ladies, colonnsdes OF
Churches, and acades of palaces, danced dimly
before our eyes, instead Of the accustomed cord
ages, the naked masts, the smutty SAIL the breast
high bulwarks, and that horrid squat funnel with
it's cascade Of black smoke tinged, as it rolled
forth with dull red glow. When | retired to
rest, caught myself holding on to the bed as
prepared to get into it; and | dreamed of nothing
all night but of trampng of feet overhead, whist
ling OF wind through rigging, shifting OF the anchor
chain and all sorts of abominable noises. These
physical "reminiscences however, disappeared
next day, and was prepared to enjoy Naples.
did enjoy it and hope all my readers may
live TO enjoy it too, know this is wishing tre-
mendousy long life to some OF them but such
wish will offend nobody. During one OF my strolls
this time was alone-I came to the foot OF that
vast flight of steps shaded by trees Which eaus
M tow ards the Castle of st. Elmo. 1t was just
mast mid day and | supposed everybody was
beginning the siesta for not single living soui
could see in any direction. sat down on one
of the steps. under the shadow OF huge elm. and
looked upward toward the sky along the oroSen
avenue of trees that led alOit. There waa some
thing siheularlv beautiful to me In the scene The
trees here and there met, and hud6led their heads
together and threw down thick black shadow;
beyond was bright patch of sunshine and then
some thirty -sprinkled branches bent across, and
the patch of blue sky that glanced at the top
seeming to be the only destination oil this lofty
staircase. -. . l..
| was gazing upward, as if in expectation, but
in reality admiring this curious effect, when a
small dark form intercepted my view of the sky.
had almost imagined myselfat the loot OF scoo
ladder but the spell was at once broken, ana
was about to rise and go away, when the singular
motions of the person who had disturbed me drew
my attention. 1t was evidently a girl, with nakeu
feet but neat garments her head was iadeh
with flowers and she skipped down with all the
lightness of the gazelle for some space then
came 10 halt possibly on seeing stranger theh
continued her progress-now showing brightly In
the sun. now dimiy in the shade, until she came
and after side long glance at me, sat down on
the opposite end OF the same step, where there
was no protection from the heat. now noticed
that abe carried a basket in her hand, from which
she produced a variety of Objects evidently manu-
featured from lava These she arranged by her
side. and examined with care, every now and then
casting an impatient look toward me- There was
awildness in her eye and quaintness in her whole
demea amor that pleased me- especially as her fea,
lures were almost without fault. So remained
where | was studying her movements and the
idea suddenly struck me that was OCCUPYING her
usual place, and that shyness prevented her from
coming nearer So rose and went little higher
up, when she at once crossed over, thought, with
a grateful smile. A little while afterward she
called to me, and asked if would buy some OF
bar curiOeties