The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1851-08-14

v ith its triple garnturo Of black lace upon dark
eolorsd tsstss or sh,ts lace upon lighter shades;
mixed with guipure of the same shade as the
mantelet, the cut Of which 30 gracefully dslinestss
the waist that it appears an attribute Of all young
and elegant ladies. The mantelet VALERIE Of Whit
taffetas, or grenadine, with its beautiful embroi-
deries in silk or mixed soutaches, with deep head
ipgs, which float as light as lace; or the msntills
andalouse of black lace, with wide trimming.
This msntiue, both for shape and elegant neglgee,
is suitable for all toilettes. We must not forget
the large square shawl of black lace, or rounded
in front, forming shawl behind and msntelet in
front, being equally fashionable this season.
Most of the dresses are no made with two b0-
dies, in order to form double dresses, yet not to
greatly increase the luggage.
The low body has berthe descending en- cew,
the front trimmed with bows of ribbon, passe mem
teric and bouillonnes, matching the trimming on
the short sleeves and skirt. The high bodies are
often made with basquines, cut in indentatons the
sleeves match, and are sometimes upon the whole
length of the arm, and fastened at intervals with
bows Of ribbon or buttons. This kind of Spanish
sleeve Is very pretty novelty, and an agreeable
change to the uniformity of the pagodes, which.
however, are still the fashion.
When the basquiues bodies are open in front .
small embroidered waistcoat is added, the buttons
Of whic are of pearl, amethyst, turquoise, emo
raids. These waistc oats, which appeared at first
rather ventursome, derive all their distinction from
the happy, manner in which they are combined:
harmonisiDg with the dress. The most elegant arc
open IN crHr, embroidered with q double row Of
buttons on each side. This style, which is rather
oriental, has good effect. very clear imustin
chemisette, OF one opposed entirely of lace, with
large bouffantes undor sleeves, with narrow wrist
bands, accompany this toilette.
We must now speak of bonnets which have their
importance at the seaside, being made for all cir
cumstances, for heat, cold, wind, and sun. First,
there are the straws, the simplicity of which
Is relieved by the magnificent bows Of plaid rib
bons, double curtains, and broad strings, giving
them the seal of distinction and fashion Some are
trimmed with dark blue or green velvet, mixed
with open straw ribbon: The upper curtain is Of
velvet, the under one of straw. The strings Of
broad velvet, and the inside is trimmed with coques
to match the outside trimming, mixed with corn
and straw foliage in straw.
Other bonnets, of coarse straw, are simply trim
med with a ribbon of straw curtain and inside
alike the strings only being of tafetas, either
advantage of withstandng the ill effects of rain Of
For more recherche toilette, Leghorn and Swiss
straws are worn. The manner alone of placing the
curtain requires talent, which is confined TO our
great houses, and renders these bonnets quite Ia
made. The trimming is composed of single bou-
quet Of garden flowers, mixed with lighter flowers Of
the field, which fall gracefully on enc side of the
bonnet. The inside is trimmed to match. Some
of the bouquets are Of very dark poppies, mixed
with ribbon grass; others Of rhododendrum placed
on each side, and buds of the same flower inside;
or bouquets of roses May jasmine, with wreath to
10 bonnets worn wide as they are at present In
order to render the light and drawn bonnets more
serviceable in windy weather, kind Of lattice
of 6ne whaebone covered with ribbons or tadesas
10 placed inside. The color Of these auxiliares ID
the same as the tips ofthe ostrich feathers which
trim the outside.
We must row mention the cavalcador. Here Is
one of those sonorous words with which the Cssti-
liam language abounds. 1t is no longer the casa
week of the north, the English jacket the juste au-
corps of Louis Kill, or the casaque dieppoise, that
fashionables decide to wear with the waiatcoat
before mentioned; for it is necessary to have some
kind Of pardef sus with this novelty but this time
the pattern has been sought in the sunny zone Of
Andalusia-it is borrowed from the graceful cava-
ers OF that poetic country, sndproduced under the
name Of cavalcadors, very open on the upper part
OF the chest, and buttoned at the waist with three
buttons only; short sleeves Ia Grecque, display
ing the under sleeves, formed Of three CIRCULATED
puds which reach the wrist, round which 1t is fast
ened. The cavalcador is generally Of the same ma
terial as the dress. The buttons are small and
hanging, Of Steel or engraved or chased silver
Travelling dresses Of alpaca are trimmed with
one very deep founce over, and on which is placed
The peignoirs Of jean are fastened with narrow
velvets and brandebourgs. The foul ards, which
are ID great request at the present moment, land
justly So for their freshness and novelty Of design
Is exqusite), arc trimmed with deep pink founces;
basquines are added at will to the body, and arc
very becoming. The heat of the weather ha, in
spired the wearers with the idea of raising the
sleeves Of these pretty dresses; they therefore
urned up as a cuff, leaving full liberty for the
sleeve to float loosely round the arm.
. The oayadere OF silk, in dark shades, with bright
ines, are stll worn fancy dresses.
Navigation OF the Indus.
From tine Manchester Gusrdianl
The accounts from India, by tho present mail.
Ping u, news Of great Importance to the commerce
more than one occasion, pointed to the remarkable
aciiities which our new possessions in the north
western extremity Of India, including the command
= the Indus, nom the sea to Attock, and even
xner, give US for opening up the trade, not only
1.-THE Punjaub, Cashmere, and Cabool, bu. also Of
he whole Of Central Asia. Hitherto all the trade
bat we have carried on, even with our own pro-
'inces, in the north west, including the Puniaub.
'as been through Calcutta, involving passage bv
inland navigation against strong current, and
and carriage of more than 800 miles, to Delhi, and
re TO the Pupjaub, also BY land. Hitherto,
he only means by which British and other Euro
,esn goods have reached the markets OF Central
Asia, including Csbool, Bokhara, and Kniva. has
,een through the Caspian Sea, and thence BY land,
caravans, for several hundred miles, through the
lorth OF Persia to Affghanistan. We have on s.-
'eIal occasions, pointed out the great ADVANTAGES
'bich the Indus offered In opening direct channel
II communication between this country and the
pa kets to which we have now referred. We have
,olnted out that, by direct comm unic alton from
ms country TO the mouth OF the indus, and By a
ingle transshipmeat there into steam boats, thosc
naTkets may be reached at an infinitely less cost
nd ~ much shorter time than heretofore.
we have much pleasure now in 1nding that tina
overomcnt Of lnoia have been fully alive TO the
ovantnges to which We 20 often siverted, and that
ot OILY have arrangements actually been made to
obstruct good and cafe hsrbor at Kurraches, at
he mouth Of the Indus, but also to establish a
1onthly steam communication, in the q rst instance
rom that point as high as Moultan Suitable
team boats have been already built, or are now
eng built, for this service The fine ne " steamer
aiklsnd, recently lost bet reen Bombay aud Kur-
achee. was destined fer 1t. This loss will postpone
% tt,e time the efficiency OF the service, yet We
elitve there are other steam boats which win hs
iade available for il in the meantime.
4 or the spirited and energetic manner in which
DC views OF the government, in reference TO this
ouJect, are being carried out Ia Soiude, the public
re much indebted to the ADMINISTRATIVE energv a.
lI; rrere, the now commissioner Of that part ofour