The southern press. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1850-1852, 1851-01-07

and, ~ was returning 70 the hotel, saw the
word @Theatse" written up. Wishing to soc
every thing in the new c,uuxy, climbed up
some steep stairs, into what Was little bettss
than a garrett, where found rude theatre, and
ruder audience, consisting chiefly of boys, who
took delight in peting one another. There was
something however, ut which had right to
feel surprised. In playhouse of strollers, at a
town nearly 500 miles in the interior OF Amert-
ca, which thirty years before had no existence
thus coming in by the merest chance, saw upon
the drop-scene the most accurate representation
Of my own house, Naworth Castle,rin Cumber-
land.
A great improvement has recently occurred
in the nomenclature Of this district; formerly =
too classical surveyor Of the State OF New York
had chriatened--I use wrong term-had hea.
thenised, to make new one, all the young towns
and villages BY the singularly inappcable titles
of Utica, Iuleca, Pa myra, Rome; they are now
reverting to the far more appropriate, and. !
should say, more harmonious Indian names, In
digenous to the soil, such as Oneida, Ononda-
ga, DC. SIX
thought my arrival at Niagara very excit-
ing. We had come to Lockport, where there
is chain of magnificent locks of the Erie canal,
one of the great public works Of America, and
which has done much to enrich the empire State
of New York the surplus Of the receipts en-
abled them to execute variety of other public
works. We arrived too late for the usual pub.
lie conveyance. The proprietor Of the stage
coach agreed to give me, with one or two other
Englishmen, lumber wagon to convey US to
the Falls. The colonel, for he was one, as |
found the drivers of the coaches often were,
drove his team of four horses himself gen
orally found the stage coach driving in the
fY-.x III. ILL t..k H..
drivers very adroit in their steerage, and always
calling their horses by their names, and address,
| ing them as reasonable beings, to which they
seemed quite to respond. Altogether, the
strnngeness of the vehicle, the cloudless beauty
of the night, the moonlight streaming through
the forest glades, the meeting OF party OF the
Tuscavara Indians, who still have settlement
here, the first hearing the noise of Niagara,
about seven miles off, and the growing excite
ment Of the nearer approach, gave to the whole
drive most stirring and enjoyable character
When arrived at the hotel, the Cataract House,
would not anticipate by any moonlight Gimp
SEES the first disclosures of the coming day, but
reserved my first visit for the clear light and
freshened feelings of morning.
stayed five days Mt Niagara on that occasion
l visited it again twice, having travelled several
thousands of miles in each interval. ! have thus
looked upon it in the late autumn, in the early
spring, and in the full summer. Mrs. Butler, in
her charming work on America, when she comes
to Niagara, says only, Who can describe TINT
sight" and with these words finishes her work.
There is not merely the difficulty of finding ade-
quate words, but there is simplicity and absence,
as should say, of incidents in the scenery, or
at least so entire subordination Of them to the
IN ain great spectacle, that attempts at aescrip-
ton would seem inapplicable, as well as impo-
tent. have undertaken, however. the endeavor,
however inadequately, to place before you the
impressions which actually derived from the
most prominent objects that saw in America
how then can wholly omit Niagara The first
view neither In the least disappointed nor sur.
prise6, but it wholly satisfied me. feltit to be
complete, and that nothing could 60 beyond it;
nature, majesty, might, are the frat ideas which
| it conveys; on nearer and more familiar inspec
ton, appreciated other attributes and teauties
the emerald crest-the seas of spray--the
rainbow wreaths. Pictures and panoramas had
given me correct apprehension of the forms
and outline, but they fail for the same reason rs
language would, to impart an idea of the whole
effect, which is not picturesque, though it is 81
blime there is, also, the technical drawback II
painting Of the continuous mass of white, ani
the line Of the summit Of the fall is as smooth
and as even MS common mill-dam. Do no
imagine, however, that the effect could be i'm
proved by being more picturesque, just MS there
are several trivial and unsightly buildings on thu
banks; but Niagara can be more spoiled than i
can be improved. You would, when on the
spot, no more think of complaining that Nj
agara was not picturesque, than you would re-
m;rk in the shock and cang of battle, that q
trumpet sounded out Of tune. Living at Nj
agara was not like ordinary life; it's not -ovei
loud but constant solemn roar, has in itself q
mysterious sound. Is not the highest voice t.
which the universe can ever listen, compared by
inspiration to the sound of many waters The
whole Of existence there has dreamy, but not
a frivolous impress you feel that you are moi
in the common world, but in its sublimest tenn
pie
naturally left such place and such life
with keen regret but was already the last
visiter Of the year, and the hotels were about to
close. was told that had already been too
late for the best tnts Of autumn, or "fll" as the
| Americans picturesquely term that season, and
| that they were at no time so vivid that year ms
was usual | saw, however, great richness and
variety Of hue think the bright soft yellow
of the sugar maple, and the dun red of the black
OAK were the most remarkable These, and the
beach, the white cedar, the hemlock spruce, the
nckoTy WIFI OccaslOnaiiy the cneatnuI ana wal
nut seemed the prevailing trees in all this dis
trict. can we'll imagine n person being disap-
pointed in the American forest trees; such rs
those Of Wentworth or Castle Howard (may
say seem the exception, and not the rule. The
mass of them run to height, and nre too thick
together, and there Is a great deal too much
dead fir; still there is great charm and freshness
in the American forest, derived partly, perhaps,
from association, when you look through the
thick tracery Of its virgin glades.
On my way back, paid two visits Mt country
houses, one to nm old gentleman, Mr.. Wads-
worth, most distinguished in appearance, name
and understanding, who had settled where
found him fifty Years before, when he hid not
VIII te neighbor within thirty miles, or a -four
mill within fifty; he lived entirely surrounded
by dians, who have now disappeared. On one
occasion there had been n review of corps OF
militia A neighboring Indian chief had been
present. and was observed to be very detected ;
Mr.. Wadsworth went up to him, offered refresh
ment which was usually very acceptable, but he
declined it; upon being pressed to say what was
al =