The Middlebury register. [volume] (Middlebury, Vt.) 1850-1882, 1851-02-12
From Chambers' journal.
The Volcano Girl,

1t is an axiom AMONG travellers, that the
Bay of Naples is the most beautiful place in
the whole world. Every one who beholds it
repeats the same statement with unvarying
uniformity and if any quaint person were
to make the contrary assertion, he would NOT
be argued with, but laughed down. dis
like paradoxes, and shall therefore subscribe
TO the general upinion, although never saw
scene so dismal as when first entered thu
bay. Dismal, but grand We had left Civ
ita Vecchia the day before, streaming through
4 restless, nasty sea, in the midst Of as filthy
a fog as ever defled the surface of the Med
iterranean during the merry month Of May.
Sometimes we could see nothing but the dir
ty-looking short waves; but now and then
dim streak of Roman territory, or two or
three shost-ke islands rewarded the efforts
Of our winkling eyes. The night was bois-
ferrous, if not tcmpestuous but when morn.
ing came the wind had abated, though with.
out driving away the mist, and the sea rolled
still in a turbulent and uncivi way.
The Maria Christina was undoubtedly the
worst steamer it mas ever been my 10, to vow
age in. There seemed to he not Il we!l-hung
piece in her whole COMPOSITION, SO that. in
addition to the usual sea sounds there was
perpetual slamming of doors and creaking
of tmbcrs. The vilhinous little craft ap-
pearcd to be in constant. hesitation whether
IT would 90 to pieces OF not; and ! believe
has since taken that freak into its head The
captain rs scamanlike fellow as ever cross
ed my eyes, kept up our confidence, howev-
err even in the most ugly moments although
it could not be denied that our expedition
was something like visit 10 he northern
seas in Margatc boat.
We crawled on at the rate of some three
or four knots an hour, until, after passing
San Stefane. we began to distinguish dimly
the base OF lschia for the summit was plung.
ed in mass of black clouds. Then a doubt
iul outline of rocks struggled through the
the pass, guessed at the form of the promon-
tory, obtained "A vague glimpse Of Procila,
and fairly entered the famous bay. All the
elements of its beauty showed family through
moving vapor that thickcned along into
drifting clouds. Capri looked like cone Of
dark mis-, lingering to The South the island
we had passed dimmed away in our rear
Bays and creeks innumcrable ran in, to the
left, between a strange mixture Of rocks and
vegetation. This was all we could see at
first; but the lower half Of the Nesuvius
soon showed itself; and presently the curtain
Of mist was drawn hastily aside, just TO give
us glimpse, as it were of the giant peak,
family penciled against the lcadcn sky, into
which its wreath of smoke faded away, and
of the reaper OF Castel a Mare, and the crag.
gy Iromontory of Sorrento. Then all was
covered again; and thin driving shower
filed the air. Not single CLEAN of sun
shine gilded the scene; but | at once dis
tinguished the orb, " shorn of its beams, -
poised over The depths of the bay.
First impressions are everything. When
ever try TO recall The all famous site, it al
ways begins by presenting itself under tins
aspcct-not without its grandeur, it is true
but far inferior to the bright and sunny
scenes witnessed when, proceeding farther
under more favorable auspices, ! made ac-
quaintance with the coasts of Calabria, and
the immortal Straits of Mcssna. With q
little patience, however, | can figure TO my
self the Bay of Naples in all the lovcines.
which it afterwards displayed and when
the operation is complete, the contrast be
comes interesting.
shall say nothing about the castles of St
Elmo and Del Ovo ; nor of the useless ius,
about granting pdHique nor Of an Attemp
made to entrap us into smuggling by wor
thy who had some silks to land nor of tn,
annoyauces of the custom house. 1t is no
my intention to take the bread out Of th,
mouths of the tourists. These are their le
gitiinale topics. have to relate little in
cdent which does not happen to every on,
who visits Naples and cannot therefore b,
accused oftrespassing npon any body 'sground
What | say about scenery and manners mus
merely be considered as a setting TO the dia
mond. | am willing to concede superiorit,
in this respect TO any one who may claim il
We lodged in the Hotel dc la Bale Ven
ice, situated half way upa steep street
name N nj nenfiona1 in u,v ;ourn.,I land; ~
from the lower end of the Strado Toledo
1 We were bent on travelling cheaply, AM
did not think four cdriineS a day too dea
for room. This hint is not intended as in
formation to any who may follow in our foot
steps; but il illustrates our character and pc
sllion, aud explains why in the course of ou
wanderings we were always meeting wit
strange adventures. A man may travel fror
Dan to Beersheba. in first class carriages o
. railways, coupes of diligences, saloons c
. steamers, he may put up at the best hotel.
f and hire he cleverest guides and he will Sc
nothing, learn nothing, feel nothing, bu
what has been seen. learned, and felt bv hi
D predecessors. But we defy even the shyes
Englishman 10 undertake the tour of Europ
on economical principles, unless he be posi-
lively determined to keep his eyes and hear
: as close shut as his pocket, without hrngin
7 back something to remember to the end
e his days--something to make his eyes gro
II dim when he meditates on it, his lips tIembl
: when he sneaks nC IL his hand C,l,,, ,ybo