New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1851-12-27

tent with beholding. The rich CLEAN of the
| silks of Brusa, the Persian scarfs and the golden
frinees and embroidered work displayed in the
shops Of the Turkish and Persian mechants, was
much less gorgeous sight to me than that OF
the lazy owners, with their large black eyes half
| closed in beatifc dreams, over the bubbhng
nargbile IN the Persian quarter, saw several
| beautiful children, but one boy whose face was
that of an angel. Raphael's cherubs IN his
Madonna di San Sisto are less divine IN thelr
loneliness If the children of the Nosem rara
disc are thus beautiful, | know no artist VINO
| would not willingly 60 there.
also visited the slave bazaar, which Is IN the
Turkish part Of the city. The keepers at hrs'
obiected 70 INV entrance, but a small backshlsh
removed their scruples. | was shown into
court ward, around which about twenty Nuoi@"'
Law grouped in the sun-small, thicN-hpPeS' n"'
beaded creatures, whose faces exhibited sou o
| massive eood.huno or, but not the slightest sign
| of intelligence. They are the lowest and cheap
est kind Of slaves, bringing from $50 to 81 90
| each, and are purchased by the Turks for house
| servants. The keeper assured met that he would
buy provisions for them with the backshish, but
| | have no idea that he kept his word.
After dsmissing my guide, took my bearings
| as accurately as possible and plunged into the
| Turkish quarter to make my way TO the burial
| ground The further | went from the bazaars,
| the more quiet crew the streets, and very soon
| saw no more Frank dresses. masked Turk
| ish lady who passed looked at me steadily with
| two of the most superb eyes | ever saw, but the
| next that came drew her mantle over her head
| and crouched close to the opposite wall, so that
| the ,mclean Frank might not even brush her
| garments. AS the streets began to ascend the
| hill. was at loss which to take, but climbed
the stones at random, till | reached fountain.
number of children who were gathered
| around it, made signs that | should return,
| and cried out " chkatchl chkatch (which
| take to be the Turkish for dogs " since
had not gone dozen steps further before
| whole pack of those animals set upon me and
forced me to beat hasty retreat. reached the
grove of expresses without further adventure
and sat down to rest on broken pillar, taken
from the ruins of Ancient Smyrna to be the head
stone of a Turk. The Turks, unlike the Chris
tians, never bury one generation IN the ashes OF
another, and consequently the battle-ground is
always enlarging its limits The tombstones,
with their turbaned tops, are innumeIable, and
the pride of some families, whose names are EN-
blazoned in golden Arabic letters pillars paint
ed scarlet or skyblue, is douby vain and ridicu-
Ious amid the neglect and decay which the
hoary expresses have looked upon for many
centuries.
| climbed the breezy sides of Mount PhaguS
to the ruins of the ancient citadel, passing on my
way many fragments of cut stone, traces OF
walls and gateways, which, with some cisterns
and foundations, are all that remains of the old
city The hill was covered with droves of
camels who lifted their solemn heads from the
dry shrubs they were browsing and looked at
me with the same passive faces as their masters
From the crest of Mount Phagus looked down
into the valley of the Meles, on its southern
side, and beyond, over the rolling plains that
stretched far inland. But the view of Smyrna
| and its gardens, the mountains and the sea, at
tracted me still more. sat for hours on rock,
| under the battered wall of the castle, without
beng able to take my eyes from the sublime
landscape. | have been since told that ran the
risk of being robbed, as the Franks of Smyrna
are rather shy of wandering alone among the
\
van Bridge favorite resort of the Smymiotes.
The banks Of the Meles are crowded with coffee
houses, and one may there inhale the perfume
| OF genuine Latakia under the shade of plane
| trees and acacas.
On arriving here, took my baggage on board
| the Lloyd steamer Austria, which was lying in
the harbor, and was expected to sail next day for
| Alexandra. found, however, that her destina-
ton had been changed to Beyrout and that
| must wait another day for the steamer from Con-
stantinople. The officers of the Austria kindly
| invited me to take up my quarters on board, IN
preference to going ashore. | shall not soon tor
get the courtesies have received at their hands,
| during these two days. This morning the Conte
Starmsr arrived, and will leave at noon for Alex
| andria. Mr. Duncan, of NewOrleans, who is
| on his way TO Nineveh leaves for Beyrout on
Monday After the Imperatrice, (Which brought
me here from Trieste) had sailed for CONSTANT
| nople learned that she took on board Col.
| Rawlinson, the companion OF Layard and the
docipherer of the Ninevite hieroglyphics, who Is
returning to his labors in Mosul Had known
that he and my former fellow-traveler, Ross
| Browne. who is bound for the same place. were
so near, should have forfeited my ticket to
Alexandria and changed my plans, for the sake
of such company through Asiatc Turkey
Nor. 3.The captain tells US we shall see the
| lighthouse of Alexandra tonight, and we can
therefore without stint express our gratitude for
the mirror.hkc sea over which we have been
sailing Stree leaving Corfu, eight days ago The
deceitful Mediterranean has for us smoothed its
waves to a halcyon calm, and we approach our
final haven almost with regret l believe said
something about Sea.sickResS III the Adriatic
Why, can scarcely imagine the sensation and