The New York herald., 1851-12-02
Oar Nesps,itan Cosrsspsnasnce.

NAPLES, NOV. D, 1901.
Tic Roxis from Rome to NaSss-A Ansoica~s in Ma
pIes-Ine PMSafres-M Msstiwg the King. &C., &c.
Tbs Isad route fiom Rons to Naples il less de-
ushtfulthan that from Florence to Rome. Still.
Ct sbia charming season Of the pear, 1t possesses
enough of attraction to cause the journey OF ono
hundred miles BY rett~rino, requiring three days
and costing ten dollars to be decidedly prefer
nth agyseable company, 70 that by diligence, In
40 consecutive hours, for $l3, o. that BY
-tivits Yecchia and steamer, in about the same
ndne, and at about the same expense.
Leaving the gate of San Giovanni ut A. M,
cad passing over tho Campagna for dozen miles,
through "the chief relics of almighty Rome" you
asoend to the pretty village Of Albano; and while
You take your dje~9r take, also, your last lock o.
"the Eternal City" and your first Of the blue
Mediterranean. Having rested two hours, you
proceed through romantic scenery and several old
villages to Csterna, distance of fifteen miles, and
pass the night. Two hours before dawn, you are
OF in the chill and mist, with closed windows, and
soon enter on the gloomy, deserted, and DESC
late Pontine Marshes-bounded on the left by
mountains, and on the right by the sea-twenty
four miles long and six broad, and crossed by .
road perfectly straight and fat which, for nearly
the whole distance, skirts turbid and rapid canal,
by which the swsmps arc DR. aimed and rendered less
fatal and more productive than they once wore
More than two Thousand years ago, the Romans
6rst attempted to dram these marshes. At ten
o'clock you emerge from the endless avenues Of elms
which line the long road, at Terracna, famous In
bandit story, and )ook out on the bright siue sea
hat dashes its waves and roars It's ceaseieSs an
them beneath the tircean rock heiresned oy
e,vwsr and the usua Jwo hours OF rest you pursue
nsbblv shore cut in tho mountain side, which tow
ers hundreds Of fee yer your head, and are soon
rsn.ded By dema9d or you. G Rss,Ro,s IN deep
Che borders of the Mes politan States.
Passing through wres ,hed Fondi and beautiful
Itri With its mourDidl memories Of Cicero, at sun
set yeu stop at Mola for the night And surely, q
more lovely view csnnet be found even in lovely
southern Italy, than that from the IDn wind0w at
Mola. looking out over the sunset waters Of the
bay towards the white towers and fortresses Of
Moa di Gaeta, with It's ancient tomb Of Piaucus,
on its mountain promoDtory, nearly isolated BY the
sea At your feet wave perfumed orange groves,
gstening with the golden fruit beyond spre ads out
ss IN ea aU oS 0 rass
Gasta-behind you are mountains Well and
wisely did the fugitive Pope, when he Aed from his
stormy children, fly TO Gaeta; for not only s 1t the
strongest fortress of the two Siclies but it is
Of the most beautiful and heslthful places in Italy
Early in the morning, while it is yet dark, you
are winding through the precipitous and narrow
street Of Mola; and taking your agsInr and s,ssta
reute, and gazing away Vesuvius with its ever
lasting wreath of smoke, at noon you are ct the
voluptuous city of Capua, and almost Immediately
miles over high emb ankment, throu Oh olive and
orange groyes and luxuriant plain, direct for Ve
suvius an6Nsples.
Naples with i:s unrivalled bay.-is splendid
paaces-its magnificent pszzas-its beautiful envi-
roas, rich with memories of departed ages and
psople-Posilippo, Possuoli, Baial, Herculaneum,
Ponpeii, Postum, Cumae-how many are the pens
which have vainy striven to do it justice! II re-
other European city; yet in its characteristic fea
lures it is almost as unique as Venice itself.
But few Americans, comparatively, have got
dswn ., low into Italy as Naples, the past summer
Those here at present are Mrs. Jacobs and son,
of Philadelphia; Mr.. Parker and son, of New York;
Lieut.. Middleton and brother, Of South Carolina; |
George Bemis and j. p. Quincy, of Boston; I: E. |
Tell, Of Philadelphia, and Edmend Flagg, of st. |
Louis also Messrs Niles, Reynolds, and Gal |
lasher. Mr. kimball has just left, and most Of
those last named leave in the French steamer Lam
guedoc, for Marseilles, Uia Civita Vecchia, Leg
bern. and Genoa, to morrow. The frigate Inde-
Morgan.
-Four Of the theatres are in full blast. At the
Eondo, the great Rachel began an engagement on
the 18th. The San Carlo has been producing the
pantomimic and musical spectacle Of "Geru-
salenme Liberata," in magnificent style. This
theatre, the larges. in the world, is q most gor-
iuteiy cloy the most yoluptuous taste. Its immense
scene, Of 90 feet by So is covered at one time by
about 40 performers N the splsndid spectacle nov
presented,s and full brass band sixty musicians
Is on the stage, while yet larger company per.
form in the orchestra at the same time. The
houses not large; and at least one half Of the
spectators are officers in the Neapolitan army and
Of the ships of war in port. The governmental al
lowance must be indispensable to sustain this vast
expensive esta blishmen: On entering the theatre,
stranger is struck by the large number OF soldiers
A.,s-r -, h. la. ,l,hhf L.
iren gates of the palace, close beside il, stands
msunted guard Of HozEsrs, sabre drawn, and car
bine In rest. Even upon the stage ITSELF at either
wing, i, beLeld ile of nusketeers, their brass
caps aud bay onets flashing In the footlightI There
no part Of the city deserted nor so public, that
II has not its seniines, and The drum and trumpet
heard almost hourly artillery, cavalry, and in
fantry, seem necessarily changing position; and the
castles Of Novo, Nuovo, and IT Elmo. are strongly
gsrrisoned, and are guarded with sleepiess vigi-
lance. Naples is not in a state Of siege, but she
has $1,000 soldiers within her walls, while the en-
tire force Of the kingdom is not far from 100000.
Three OF the regiments in the city, containing
about 5000 men, Swiss, and Developments In
1878 indicate that they alone to be fully trusted
net Nsp'ss very que. INST at present, ana 50
Hesuvius. The severest police regulations are
maintained respecting strangers. Their passports,
Immediately on their arrival, are transmitted to
the respective consus who give bond for their good
behavior while in the city. On leaving the city,
(for Msrstilles, for example, rla Leghorn and
Genos), . rise of the corsul followed by that Of
the police, the Minister Of Foreign Affairs, and
the Consuls for Tuscany, Sardinia, and France,
are indispensable, which will cost a sum total Of
about s., the American Consul receiving az, and
the Frtuch Consul france.
The King has been at the old palace at Caserts,
some sixteen miles from Naples for some weeks,
bat ia at present in the city A small party OF us,
all Americans, met his Majesty on the road 20
Pansilippo, the other evening, accompanied sy the
Queen and by several other me I'm bers Of the royal
family in other carriages. American soyeregns
"a every one kno vs. have little no reverence for
any foyereigns but themselves aud very little, in
deed, for such sovereign Mr.. Gladstone's re-
cent letters would imply Ferdinand III Of the Two
Sicues, to be. But his Majesty took his hat com.
petely OF TO us, and could we possibly help touch
ing eur own hats to him lie is large man, Of
forty Eve years Of age, and would be rather good
looking had be not the huge under jaw, exagge-
rated features. and protruding blue ayes OF the