The republic., 1851-08-08
Summer Life in Naples.
Extract Of letter 10 d. Editor. Of the Republic.

Naples is deserted OF strangers during the
summer months. The crowds OF English,
Americans. Russians, and Germans who throng
the hotels on the bay front of the city from DC
tober to May are no longer to be seen prone
nading in the groves of the Villa Reale, or
driving over the StradG .NuOUa to the enchant-
ing shores of the classic Gulf Of Baiae. The
Neapoltans do not, however, abandon their
beautiful capital The summer with them Is
rather The season their villegiatura or country
retirement is confined to the months of May
and October, while the hot months are passed In
town, and probably with show of reason.
The great desideratum in this land Of blue skies is
shade, of which the winding streets, enfiladed by
lofty palaces stories in height, of course afford
more than the open country. Although the south
ern exposure of Naples brings upon it the full power
of the sun, yet in the heat is counteracted
by a refreshing sea breeze, which invariably sets
in about nine a. M, and blows until six p. m,
except when interrupted by the fiery sirocco. In
June bath houses put up in the sea short dis
lance from shore. where for sixteen cents you may
have fresh dip in the surf as 1t comes rolling In
upon the beach. AS dusk approaches, the popula-
tion pours into the Streets and the opera and thea
tres which open at nine, p. m do not dismiss their
audiences until after midnight. Before the cafes
cheerful groups of ladies and gentlemen are taking
ices in their carriages, or ounging on chairs until
after that hour, while the bay, sparkling in the
light of an Italian moon, is covered with boating
parties whose music floats the waters like the
strains Of the syrens who lured Ulysses upon the
adjacent shore of Sorrento.
As the Neapolitans rarely entertain except on
some family festve day, and as they visit only by
card, their outdoor life is very gay. All the prin
cipal families rent boxes by the year at the San
e. g.
enough to hold fifteen twenty persons, and en-
tirely closed on all sides except towards the audi
ence, they afford all requisite privacy. Between
the acts they are filed by visiting friends from
other parts of the theatre, or by such drop in
an evening walk. A box-holder has right to ad-
NIT whoever he chooses, and any one is permitted
enter the open doors of the building, and to pass
unquesioned to his friends box, as he would to
his dwelling Instead of inviting you to call upon
him at his residence, Neapolitan will say, 81
shall be glad to see you at my box, No. =, this
evening"" Here you may enjoy the double luIu-
ry of your hosts conversation, and the beat music
of Italy, in the largest and most splendid opera
house in the world.
The English, who, writers of travels, uni
versal calumnators, have published SO much mis-
representation and falsehood of the Neapolitans,
that stranger is agreeably surprised to find them
the most courteous, kind, and unostentatiously po
lite of people The civility of the lowest classes is
equal 10 the refined courtesy Of the nobility; the
lneanest peasant offers you friendly salutation
he passes, and, if you stop to ask him a question,
he will answer like gentleman, and as you proceed
your way will give you parting salutation of
estate vi Jener' When possessed of their lam
guage, there cannot be found more agreeable
people to live among. During the winter, the no
blity of Naples give series OF balls at the rooms
of the Academia Reae, adjacent to San Carlo and
the Royal Palace; this is spacious suite of apart
ments divided into dancing salon, billiard, con
versation, and coffee rooms Strangers are ad-
mitted on the presentation of their names by
their diplomatic representative; a large number
OF Americans were introduced last winter; our
fair countrywomen excited enthusiastic admi-
ration among the Italians by their beauty Of feature
and grace of manner. ] often asked here "if
we have any ugly women in the United States''
so universal does the endowment of beauty appear
to be among cur ladies who come abroad. These
splendid entertainments maintained by the no.
bty as a mode of doing the honors of the city to
strangers, and, a centre of general reunipn they
bespeak spirit of liberal hospitality honorable in
the highest degree to their projectors.
In the environs of Naples are some of the most
delightful summer retreats in Europe. Castella-
mare, one hour from the city by railroad, on the
side of the bay, s the most fashionable place of
resort; to the attractions of sea bathing it adds that
of copious springs of sulphur and ferruginous wa
ters The town lies on the level beach, at the foot
OF gently sloping hills, covered with villas and ho
tes winding donkey paths imperviously shaded
from the sun, lead up to the lower SUBMITS of Mt.
st. Angelo, whence extensive views to be en-
joyed of the Campania, Yesuvius, Naples, and the
surrounding towns, Cape Misenum, Ischia, Pro-
cida, Capri, Sc, &c. Looking northward, Cas-
teamare is always cool in summer, as it catches
the bracing Maestrae and Tramontana in all their
breadth A magnificent carriage road, for the
most part hewn out of the rock, affords pctur-
esque ride of an hour and half over the noun
tains to Sorrento, seated upon an elevated plain,
rising hundred feet precipitously from the sea,
and embraced by circuit of lofty mountains
Here one may bury himself in the shade of orange
groves with the matchless bay expanding in all its
glory before the eye, or scale the mountains and
look upon three of the most beautiful guls at the
same moment viz: the gulfs of Naples, Salerno,
and Baiae; or, taking boat, sail round the Cape
of Minerva, into the Gulf of Salerno, and passing
by the Homerc islands of the Syrens, skirt along
the mountain coasts of the Republican Amalphi,
covered from the sea to their cloud-cap sum.
mts with villages, converts, villas, vineyards,
and olive groves, to the silent plain of Poestum,
with its triad of tempes-the oldest existing
ments Of Grecian architecture The English, who
traverse Europe in quest of health and pleasure,
to be found nesting everywhere around these
mantle shores; one Of them, gentleman OF for
tune, who made an accidental visit to Capri, was
so much fascinated by the beauty of the island
that, like Tberius he built himself palace there,
and has made it hia residence for the last thirteen
years.
The king and royal family are passing the sum
mcr at Gaota, whence they have recently made a
flying visit to the Pope, who is rusticating at Cas-
! tel Gondolfo, near Rome. The king, who ia known
to be of very kind and element disposition, not
withstandng his reputation to the contrary, hns OF
late been granting a large number of pardons to
| political prisoners. more liberal exercise of the
royal prcrogative, ii is believed will be exercised
upon his natal anniversary, in January, unless the
| public tranquility should be disturbed. The trials
of the batch of prisoners inculpated in the street
fight in the Toledo, May Is, lS4S commence this
month, and will, no doubt result in the condemna-
ton of many Of them TO the chains and pnlley la.