The republic. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1849-1853, 1850-07-15
A cn.p,.r on Meaoe.. or ..olaret 1vlne..,

MY DEAR Sir: Your favor Of the 7th contains
some queries about the wine of Chateau Mar
gaux." The answers which you expect me TO
give will be, l suppose for the information Of /
friends whom imagine to have been led to the \
subject over bottle of "Chateau Lariveaux;" \
which. though it does not aspire to the rank OF
Chateau Margaux," is, nevertheless, pure wine,
and adapted to give you correct impression oil
true 'Medoc"
Before speak particularly of the wine of "Cha-
teau Margaux, permit me TO offer few general
remarks about " Cfarets"
'Clarst'' is a name not used in France, is it
applied to the wines which we here designate
by that name. The generic name of all Clarets is
"MEDoc." This is the name Of the district where
all these famous wines grown, and where wines
are better classed, according 10 their growth and
quality, than in any other wine growing country
The district of Medoc belongs to the ACCOMPLISHMENT
of Bordeaux, department of the Gironde, in the
southwest of France. Ii is formed of ancient
Guienne, and bounded north by the department
C.arente- Irferie,rs; to the south by the sandy dis
trict Of the Landes; the east by the department.
of the Dordogne and the Lotet- Gar0nne; and on
the west by the Atlantic ocean The most import
ant part of the district is that which lies on the
left of the rivers Dordogne and Garonnc, below
bordeaux These two rivers unite at Bomg, and
form the Gronde, which, with the Dordogne and
Garonne traverses the whole district in north
west direction
II is on the slopes of this left bank, descending
the river from Bordeaux, that we find the various
villages Of Ludon, Cantenac, Margaur, Bechepeiie,
ST. Julien Pauillac, 50. Estephe and others, which
have given names to the various wines Of their re-
spective communes.
few words about the qualities, or 'cassifca
-. IL.
ton has been long established by usage, the
most sacred basis for, although there be those who
think that his neighbours wine, which is placed in
the rank of second quality is entitled only to that
of thirds, still, the names well established by
means of the classification, that true Medoc
wine can be passed off second class which is be-
low it. They are, besides, each well known by
their respective characters and flavor, that ! have
seen experienced judge enter the large cellars
at Bordeaux, where the wine is in charge OF the
professional "wine- coopers" on sale, and, lndls-
criminately tapping the casks would name the
plantation vineyard IL was from, so soon as seen
and tasted. In each class or quality (cru) oil
wine, there are, however, differences of opinion as
to their merits, although there many under the
one general head of first, second, third, fourth
fifth class.
There are five classes of medoc before you reach
the "BOn- b0trge0 is,' or, tcnes not miIed. Then
come the "Vins- ordinaire," which are usually the
inferior wines of the district; of feeble char
acter quality, and mixed with common red wine
OF heavier body, from the adjoining districts and
often spirits added to give them force and
keeping qualities for shipment.
The ,'vin-o rdinaire' is such is usually sold
in this country in hogsheads, at twenty to some
times thirty dollars hogshead two three
Inllara nd az N o,re Hel0c. A III the
wines that are classed are pure. Not unfrequept-
ly, however, some houses burgundy certain OF their
Medocs-which is, to add to the lighter wines
little good Burgundy wine to impart flavor or
body. This does no injury on the contrary, some
prefer certain wines treated thus. lover of the
best grades of Medoc would not.
OF the Medoc wines of the ".frst class" there are
but four The order Of them is as follows: /" Cha
teau- MagauI," in the commune Of Margaux J;
" Chateau Latte" in the commune of Pauilac !;
% Chafeau- Latotr," in the commune; and
'IfuIt- Brion," in Pessac. The second class wines
number about eleven sorts, vineyard The best
of these is thought 10 be the wines OF Chateau Cos,
in ST. Estephe, which is a wineof remarkable body,
color, and bouquet. This is the wine which the
late Dominick Lynch sold so much Of in the United
States as Chateau Margaux," and which made
his name renowned as an importer OF fine Claret.
his statement on luC duluOIlly VI WI
Destournel of Bordeaux, the proprietor Of the vine
yard of Co.'s" who assured Of its truthiulness.
knew OF wine. among the Medocs, that may
be 80 safely adopted in lieu of the first cass wines,
by those who desire TO economist, as the "Cos" OF
Mr.. Destourne-who is, besides being producer,
the vender of his wines in Bordeaux.
The second class best wines seldom sell much
below wines of the first class.
The third class'' wines number about fifteen,
and sell at about three hundred francs tun (oi
four hogsheads) less than the second. speak OF
Dineyard prices. The "iourth class" number about
seventeen and sell about three hundred francs be-
low the "third." Some of the fourth class wines
"Dfargatr" wines, q. e., grown and produced
in the commune Of Margaux,) but are not TO be
conioundcd with the wines of the farm or vineyard
Of "' Chateau Morgdur." Then the =" fifth
class wincs, numbering some twenty odd, nope
Of which are grown in Margaux, except an unim-
portant product Of ten or twelve tuns year.
There is usually about four thousand tuus, j. c.
sixteen thousand casks about million OF gal
Ions annually, produced Of the eias,ifed ioines Of
Medoc. The beet years not very abundant, and
therefore the total estimate should be put about
seven hundred and fifty thousand gallons After
the fifth class wines come the " Bon bourgeois,
in which rank may be placed nearly all the good
named IL, the fUs clauses; also, good vineyards
of Sotssans, Labarde, Liadon, and Mooau, and few
small proprietaries Of hargoiI and CdntsnGc. After
these come the small properties of PauIdc and 81
Esfephe, some large vineyards Of Cissae, ST. Sdu
Deur Lamorgus, &c ; slso, the Paysans Of Mar
gauS, Cantenac, st. Julien, and Pauillac, which
sell from five TO seven hundred francs a tun.
In fact the email farmers in the celebrated com
munes often make very good wine, and readily oh
tain for il Of the Bordeaux merchant three hundred
10 four hundred francs tun Of four casks
There is belonging TO small proprietors som
wines in the midst of those which belong 10 the
classed qualities, but they are destitute Of tina
bouquet vigor, and aroma, which gives value to th
chased wines.
After this long story, must conclusc with som
more particular remarks about the wine of " CHh
rEAv- MARGAUx," which seems more especially th
.bject of your inquiry.
The commune of Margaux, of which the name j
80 celebrated is bordered the north by Soussans
south by Cantenac, west by Avensan, and east b.
A. .r,... "A.