The republic. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1849-1853, 1850-08-17

the Providence J0aundl an article in relation 10
the topography of Nicaragua, and especially the
route ofthe proposed ship canal, from which We
extract the following:
"Ii an accurate map Of Central America existed,
1t would exhibit here a separation of the great
chain OF the Cordilleras in two divergent ranges
less general height than the great ridge itself and
having occasional partial interruptions. This di
yergence takes place in the northern department OF
Segovia, one branch extending due southeast to-
| wards the Atlantic. Its outposts come down to the
| very shore, and form the prominent landmarks up
on That coast The range itself intersecs the San
Juan river about fifty miles above its mouth, at the
| 'faptdes. Upon it's northern base, and nearly
parallel to it, flows long and large stream, the
RIO Escondido, better known on the maps as
| 'Biewheid's river All the streams upon the
other side Of the range fall into Lakes Managua
and Nicaragua, or into the San Juan river. This
| range resumes lts course upon the southern bank
OF the San Juan, but now bears nearly due SOUTH
connecting with the low Pacific range, in the ele-
waited regions of Costa RIGA. The Pacific range
| follows the general direction of that coast, some
times rising into lofty volcanic cones but generally
sustaining the character of a high ridge, in places
subsiding into low hills and plains This range
preserves nearly uniform distance from the
oi from hVe TO twenty mies; consequently, there
are no considerable streams flowing into the Pacific
Tor the extent which it continues. Ii unites, as
have already said, with the eastern range in Costa
Rica. The course of this range seems TO have been
| the principal line of volcanic action, and extinct
craters and beds of lava be met with at short
intervals, throughout its length. The lofty cones
| OF the volcanoes Of San Miguel, Amapala, Tigre,
Coseguina, Vieio, Santa Clara, Teica, Acosusco,
Las Pilas, Momotombo, Momobacho Oros, and
Ometepec, not to mention many others, may be
garded as belonging to thiA range. Tney form
prominent landmarks from the sea, and constitute
| remarkable features in the landscape.
These two ranges Of the Cordilleras form, with
their slopes, great interior basin, consisting in
great part of broad, beautiful, and fertile plains
The waters of this wide region fall into the lax cs
already named, of which the San Juan river ia the
emily outlet. Many of the streams flowing into
these lakes, especially from he north, Of con-
siderable size, and furnish supply of water which
could not be sensby affected by drains for artificial
| purposes.
"The Lake of Mana qua a pproaches at the near
est point, to within twelve or fifteen miles Of the
Pacific from which it il separated on the south by
the range of hills already described. But between
Its northern extremity and the there is only the
| broad and magnificent pain of Leon, gradually
rising, for distance of2,7 40 yards to an elevation
of SO feet inches above he lake, and ITO above
the sea, and then subsidirg, in gentle slope, to
| the ocean.
'.The river San Juan, concerning which SO much
has been written, is certainly MAJ nifcent stream.
But is capabilities have been greatly exaggerated
Ii Is the only outlet of the two lakes above. men
toned, flowing from the southeastern extremity of
Lake Nicaragua, nearly due east TO the Atlantic.
Its length has been varously estimated at from 10
| To iOi miles. The first estimate is certainly too
little. Mr.. Bailey calculated it at 80 miles, and he
! Is pIODdDiy not lTOtu correct Inc DOuY OF wa
ter which flows through this stream is at all times
considerable, but 1t varies greatly in with
the seasons OF the year. 1t is greatest during what
! ID termed the rainy season. In the interior, that
| Is to say, from May to November, at which period
he volume of water is nearly doubled. 10 this
circumstance, in great degree, may be ascrihed
she wide difference in the statements of the depth
and capacity OF the river made by different indi-
viduals
Several considerable streams enter the San
Juan, the principal Of which are the San Carlos
and Serapiqu, both rising towards the south, in
| the highlands OF Costa Rica. The streams flow
ing In from the north are comparatively SMALL in
dicating that the mountains not far distant in
this direction and that upon this side the valley is
comparatively narrow. The Serapiqui is ascendcd
| by boats TO point where the Costa Rica road
(traii) commences. This is the route by which
Costa Rica keeps up communication with San Juan
and TO the point here named she is now endeavoring
TO construct road for mules, starting from San
Jose, her capital.
''The banks of the San Juan from the fort Of IAN
Carlos at the outlet Of the lake to the Rapides del
! Ioro, distance of twenty miles, generally
low, and covered with palms, canes, and species
OF high, coarse grass, called gamdiott. The river
here sometimes overiiows its shores, which for a
considerable distance back, seem TO be fiat and
swampy. From the port OF San Juan upwards,
halfway TO the point of the divergence Of the Colo
RADIO, distance of eighteen miles, the banks Of The
river present corresponding appearance In fact,
the entire country from this point to the sea is fiat
as is shown by the divergence Of the Colorado the
merous iagttnGs Ii il nevertheless fertile, and ca
pable OF producing, IN the utmost luxuriance rice
sugar, and those other articles which require moist
and fertile sos. From the Colorado 20 the Rapides
del Toro, distance Of more than fifty mics the
banks OF the river vary from six to twenty feet in
height, and dcnsey wooded, the forests com
/ ing down 90 tho waters edge, forming a wall OF
! verdurc. The passenger in the boats is so com
petoly shut la by vegetation, that 1t Ia impossible
20 discover what Is the character of the back
try At intervals, hills and high grounds 70 be
discovered, and sometimes these come down 20 the
edge of the river. AT the mouth Of the San Carlos,
there are hills thousand feet high and the river
! is much contracted. The entrance Of the passa gre
/ between them from the West somewhat resembles
the opening of the highlands of the Hudson from the
Forth.
"The banks Of the river are in some places rocky;
! elsewhere they are far from being crumbling as
| those of the Ohio and Mississippi, and the other
rivers Of the western States OF the Union. This s
perhaps, due, to some extent 70 the roots of trees
I and plants which penetrate and bind the earth in
all directions. The bed Of the river may be re-
! garded essentially permanent. Ii nevertheless
! abounds in islands Of which there are hundreds.
Some of them are low, and covered with gornaieie,
or with canes, but most high as tue banks OF
! the river, and wooded in like manner.
"'The width of the river varies from one hundred
TO four hundred yards, and its depth from elk 70
twenty feet. should estimate the avcra ge volume
Il Of water at about that Of the Hudson above tide
water. The bottom seems generally % be gravel.
There are four considerable rapids where the bed
is rocky and the water shallow. Thesc will he no.
/ ticed hereafter in detail. The current from the
mouth Of the river to the Del TorJ il strong With
the water at medium stage, in a light bongo, and
! with "a stout crew of ten men, was six days in
passing from San Juan 10 San Carlos. The men
lsborcd hard at the and setting. poles from
daylight until dark each day. We passed other
bong0s which bad left three days before u.s. and
trip was regarded as one Of extraordinary rapidity
I for the season. From these facts sOtne idea may
be formed of the strength Of the current. Bulow
calculates the fall Of the stream at twenty inches
per mile, except at the various rapids, where it ia
! more .
"The banks Of the river arc totally uninhs bited
nor il il known that any one has penetrated the
country 10 any considerable distance in either di-
rection. a ANAL garrison " stationed the Cas-
hiio Viejo, about 80 miles below the lake, at the
Ropides del Castillo. There il no doubt that the
entire region Is cIninently fertile, and capable OF
producing all the fruits aud staples Of the tropics in
the greatest abundance.
"Bulow descended tho river in July, when the
water at its highest stage. Ills bongo ffiy
feet long by nine broad, and had freight Of five
tons and thirteen persons, the boat drawing about
four feet Of water. His notes, so far they were
confirmed by my own observations, are embodied
I'm the subIoiucd paragraphs
The Fort Of San Csrlos, at the head Of the river