The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1850-11-26
Paisley shaxyIs.


Not so much following in the wake Of the
French manufacturers, as advancing in parallel
path, the Paisley weayers are equally indebted 10
the genuine Indian cashmere as model, and have
displayed equal perseverance IN bringing their
work near 10 its prototype, so far as the hrst ge-
neral effect is considered. As we remarked in ouI
former chapter, Il IL the close inspection OF an In
dian shawl which most distinctly shows the diff
ference of its fabric from any other, though there
are Two modes of working the pattern OF an Indian
shawl-the one by embroidering il upon the mate
rial, and the other by working Il into the web dur
ing the process of weaving. The first mode is OBJ
uously needlework, and forms the less valuable
kind OF Indian shawl; the latter is not SO simple,
and bears al n glance a nearer resemblance TO the
French and Paisley manufactures. la the pro-
due ion OF THE, the more costly Indian fabric, a
number ofskewcTs, made Of ivory, and sometimes
Of wood, about the size of common packing
needle, are used. They are sharpened at both
ends, and each skeweT is covered with different
colored wool aud with them the Patterns worked
stitch by stitch into the web. The backs OF these
sha wis, Of course, show the effect Of this minute
and lsborious hsndieraft aud present totally dit
ferent appearance from the European shawls, the
patterns OF which are woven entirely on the loom.
Only, however, the very inferior Paisley shawls
are made by the power loom the finer ones re-
quiripg the more delicate work OF manual labor,
and the numerous shades OF color which used,
each demanding separate shuttle, render hand
loom weaving indispensable.
There Is one disadvantage which the Paisley
manufacturers labor under, which would, perhaps,
never be guessed, or thought of, by the unnitateds
"a
must mentien u In calculation Of our subject. The
heavy duty paper from which the French are
wholly free, IL severely felt IN the use of the JAG
guard loom, how severely may be imagined when
we mention the following sin 1le circumsance III
IL computed that for certain Paisley shawl In
contemplation for the great exhibition Of next year.
The cost Of prcranng the jacquard will be $40, out
of which sum the duty on the cardboard will be
no less taan c92 l5s.
OF course, the preparation for commoner fabrics
Is much less costly, but still the tax is 10 due pro-
portion; and though II IA true thar the Jacquard,
once Get, will make an infinite number Of shawls.
II ~ also true that fashion Is proyerbialy tickle,
and necessarily limits that advantage. We must,
also, bear in mind, that numerous designs do not,
in commercial phrase, take" and that. m these
cases, nearly dead loss Is the result Nevefthe-
less, our clear headed and enterprising Scotehmen
are not either Il the present or Tor the
future; and " hst they doing, the wide Windows
81 our most SNOWY London shops will tell, and the
haunts Of fashion in this autumn season yet more
advantageoUsly display. We are certain that
Paisley shawis are frequently taken for French
Cashmeres, nor do we believe that any one bat an
experienced dealer perceive the difference be-
tween a chef d'.0VUre from the North and Paris.
shawl. ct course we are not speaking Of those
common fabncs which, from the cxigence of cheap
ness, are made partly OF cotton, but Of the faely
woven wool shawls, the imitation Cashmeres.
Some of the most beautiful we have seen are made
Of wool imported ffOm Australia; the genuine
Cashmere wool is also freely used as well as a fine
wool from Germany. where shaws, too, are made;
but the manufacture, though Of long standing does
hipcdt " 70 nave lnulNIuudlity
merit any particular notice.
For their patterns the Paisley manufacturers are
indebted both 10 India and France but more for the
general idea OF what will work well than for any
Precise pattern; and so curiously successful are
their own designers, that some three or four years
ago Paisley shawl was detained ar the custom
house as being French The owner Of the shawl
The wife of member Of parliament, insisted upon.
me contrary bat so positive were the auth )riiies,
that the shawl was only given upon Messrs. Kerr
end scott sending TO them an agent who produced
the original pattern
The duty on Paisley shawls is go heavy in France.
Germany, Italy, Spain, and Portugal, that il almost
amounts 10 prohibition, ranging as i does be-
tween thirty and seveniy.live per cent The loag
shawls being more esteemed than the square ones.
and considered articles Of luxury, u rs by no
means unusual for dealers cut the former n TIVE,
in order 10 evade the higher duty, and TO have the
two halves fine drawn together Afterwards These
shawls are greatly admired on the continent, ant
we observe in a recent number Of French journal.
that ne shawl lately adopted by the Parisans a.
called the Paisley