The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1850-11-13

TIE LONDON DEE>SMAKERs AM MII.LISsR
From the London Lhronicle. Oct 2Al

From the London Cbronicie. Oct POI
The working dres smskers and mllliners OF Lon-
dan are, as a body, composed Of a more mixed
class of the community than the members of
any other calling. Among them are the daughters
OF 1lrreymen, OF military and naval officers, and of
SURGEONS, farmers, and tradesmen ofevery descrip-
ton The great majority Of these dressmakers-
fully ihree.fourths Of them--have been reared IN
the country. The number OF dressmakers and
rnllners IN London, at the time Of taking the last
census, tlSflO was 70, $50. or this number,
HISS were females Of twenty years Of age and
upwards, and J, $50 under that age. The remain
ing liz were males, 10 Of whom were below twen-
ty years of age.
The business Of dressmahing is carried on by two
clssses-the dressmakcr and the millIner. The
drsssmsker's work is confined TO the making Of
ledes' dresses, including every kind Of outwardly-
worn gown or robe. The miners work IL con-
fined 10 making caps, bonnets, soarfs aud all out
ward attire worn by ladies other than the gown;
the bonn.t IL, however, which tax the skill of the
inilliner, are what are best known as made bon
nets such as are constructed of velvet SATIN silk
muslin, or any other textile fabric. Straw bonnet
ina king 10 carried on by distinct class, and in
separate establishments. The milliner, however,
often trims straw bonnet, afhking the ribbons,
flowers, or other adornments. When the business
is sufficiently large, one or more millinery hands
are commonly kept solely TO bonnet-making, those
best skilled in that art being ofcourse selected but
every efficient milliner so employed is expected to
be expert also at carmaking, and at all the other
branches Of the trade. The millineT is accounted
a more sklful laborsr than the dressmsker.
OF milliners and dressmakers there are, as in
most other trades CT the present day, two distinct
classes-viz., the adequately and the rooriy paid,
or, in other words, those belonging TO the "honor-
able and those belonging TO the " dislsonorable''
or "slop" part C the trade. ] shall eonhne my
present letter TO expectation Of the earnings and
condition Of the former class.
The division oSlabor vhich have pointed out
IL closely observed in all large establishments,
though in some only millinery work Is done, and
IN others only dlnssnal ng; but in tse majority Of
the London houses the Two branches are carried
on together. The woskers employed consist Of
apprentices, ir,proyers, assistants Including day
workers), third hands, second hands, and first
hands. Each department he's a iisst hand, whose
business il is 20 wait apon the customers, receive
orders, take measures, cut out the material (uness
second hand or anclher fin, had be so employed
in a very large estaSl shment), and give IL cut 10
the workwomen &c be made. The young women
who attend IN the Showracm. 10 display the silks,
made art eles, such es gloves, bonnets, scarfs.
collars. Nc, are called the aaowwomen, in esta-
blshmenis known as "priyate houses'--that is
houses without shops-snd saleswomen IN houses
10 which shops are attached. This is tAe case ia
both EEcnch and English houses. Each de-
paftment has also a second hand or superintendent
who works along with he others, d reefs or su-
Ierin;ends thsir labor, AID nstructs TIE mprovers
and apprentices. She 10 responsible for the lroper
execution of the work, and for the dee exeriion Of
indasiry on he part of al employed. A third hand
is Employed in a similar way.
The assistants are hired workwCmen, employed
ca the premises in some cases, aad when so EN-
Ployed sleeping there, and in meet cases boarding
with their employers Some ara engaged by the
month, or the quarter, or the year; others by the
week or the season. Their " busy time" q during
the fashionable season, or aboat elk months out Of
the twelve, from February to July n week or
two before and after Christians is also busy time
| in many houses, and in OILERS, six weeks before
Christmas fer the, winter fashions, AID three or
| -four weeks after II.
The improvcrs are a very nuraerous class
| When girl has completed her apprenticeship, or
| other term ct engagement in a couutry town, or
| even in Edinburgh, or dublin, she comes to Lon
don TO improve II SIC has an iniention of estab.
| fishing herself in bussess in the town where her
parents and friends reside, she and they feel N a IL
would be hopeless - attain the "pittonsge" NJ the
ntiebboring ladies' anless she have the prestige 81
having BEEN trained TO the perfect exercise OF i.on
| don tsste and skgl-ap rcttsse which must be diiy
msintsintd, whsD In busarss, by at least one an.
| nusl visit to Lon Ion ''fos the fashions" Tho i'm
proven is epgsged Cor given period. Generally for
| two yesrs) aud is sisnosi always boarded Ia the
house Of her employer who, not unffe Slcnily, re-
| ceive. premium with her, white ,se inp over
| receives no remuneration fer her labor. She Is
there act to be paid. but 10 be improved THE pre-
| mpms with improvefs vary fron El0 to $50
| TIE apprentice Is the yoprs etl placed With z