The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1850-03-11
Our Valparaiso Correspondence.


AdrentW1s-7hs Resources of South Ameri-
ca, &c &c.
When embarked at New York, on the 18th of
Move nlber, promised YOU series of letters from
Valparaiso. So, here eoes the FIRST. AS you are
aware, | came out 10 Chagres, in The beautiful
steamer Crescent City, commanded by the veteran
navigator and polite Captain Stoddard. We had
on board 3i3 passengers, most OF them bound Tor
the :" Ell Dorado" of the world, whose enjoyment
ard comfort seemed to be The sole Of the cap
tain and his genilemanly officers generally. take
great pleasure IN speaking thus of Captain Stod-
daId and his officers, IL is but act of sheer
justice To those of my countrymen bound for
California, via the lsIhmus, would commend this
steamer, (noI, however, TO the dIsparagement OF
ohers,) one worthy alike Of their confidence
and comton In my Judgment, liner ship never
bIaved The sea. Her power and sea-worlhiDess
Were well tested off Cape Hateras, on the fourth
and fifth day out, IN gale, through which she rode
III gallant style.
Jamaica) a, few hours, for mail purposes, we
weighed lchor ana cut across the Caribbean Sea,
with Iahoad velocity, reaching Chagres at 10 Z.
NJ, en- the 9ih day tfom New YORK. lou see / am
giving YOU cursory account Of my Journey. do
so for The benefit Of those who have never taken
this travel, since personal observation demon
s,rates 10 me that many Americans leave their
country with very erroneous views OF getting to
Callioinia. i wish TO render service, by ten
deIng them lille gfatuitous advice, espe-
oially about crossing this much talked of
and much travelled lsthmus. g Eaperteatta
GOtd " Is MAXIM as full of truth II is of
wears. Al the mouth Of the rver Chagres, the
ffs object that strikes the sight IS the old fort OF
san Lorenzo, now In a state Of hopeless dllaplda-
ton, erected by the early Spaniafds. Some of the
guHs (sJleBdid specimens Of Castian SIX al D have
rolled down from their lofty POSITION, and now lie
neglected, al The base of the huge rock on winch
They ~eIe originally planted. IN the PALMER days OF
Spanish conquest Instead OF exhibiting the gilt
ter and tuIblsh, as in days of ore, 10 deter the
intruder from that bold and abrupt shore, they
constitute lbc CHIEF resting places OF the weary
sea fowl Could the walls OF that foricatl0n
SPEAK, they would unfold a tale rich with interest.
As circled around n, saw Il mule or two brows-
ing immediately under It's moss-covered basuons,
once The iooipaih Of the warllke Spaniard. | re-
solved 10 learn ITS history before LETT Chagres,
but such is The Beatian stupidity OF that people
that none could give me any account of that Tune
worn pile. 1t takes its name from the patron
SAINT OF New Granada, Saint Lawrence. On
reaching the mouth of the river, every thing struck
with variety OF wild fowl, of rare and beautiful
plumage, from The broad winged pelican to the
tiny pilwllet, such wholly unknown IN
Northern ATTITUDES. Being seldom molested by
that passive people, they are quite tame. We
found the river high, and the strong. In the
dry season q. e. the months Of January, February,
March, and the first pant of April,) the water is
usually low, and II is then pleasure 10 ascend the
irregular showers, and the consequences of wet
CLOTHES. Having but four days, to cross in time
10 take the British steamer at Panama, down the
coast, (Which sails regularly on the 9Th of every
month, at ) L. M at once busted myself in Sc
cnnrg canoe, 10 90 to Cruces. BY the aid OF an
old Jamaica negro, who keeps a sort OF hotel,
and who is quite parsonage there, got one i'm
mediately, manned with three men, for $40 This
was about A. M. was told should be off In
two hours, and was credulous enough so to be-
heve. In despite OF entreaty and repeated persua-
sives, IN the shape OF additional Dunes could not
move them before III o'clock. BY the advice of
the American Consul there, | paid them In adj
vance. Ii is bad policy. Pay the m half at starring
and hall at arriving. learned, TO my chagrn,
that neither money nor any other douceE Ga this
earth can make those people move until they get
READY. The word 90 hurry ie an unkno wn word
TO them They will bamboozle you, by framing
pitie1t after preiexL and go, in snai-ke strides,
until the spirit moves them. BE the necessity Of
your early departure ever so imperative, you have
10 await, with folded arms and clInched teeth,
their Will and pleasure. AT IL o'clock, We set
out, IN long built matched covered canoe, with
scarcely room 10 cit erect IN They the middle
OF the canoe with palm Leaf, to protect the travel
Ter IRON rain and the tropical sun. For several
miles we got on swmmingly, but were soon over
taken by some fellow passengers, who had the sa-
gacity to get smaller canoes. They passed US
like a thing OF lie" reaching Cruces nearly day
before me, When about eleven miles up the river,
we stopped at a squad httle "kraal' Ia colec ton
OF shanties), called kntoon, to give our boatmen
breathing spell. They detained us an hour or two.
After pyibg them pretty freely with rum and pro-
misses, we again dipped our Oar, and travelled I'M
I'll twelve, when we hauled up, and slept nil dawn.
Al this laok-adaisy gait alter beng out % hours
from Chagres, we finally reached long. looked for
Cruces. This Is remarkable place.. C., tor raw
boned mules ana hall clad women. AT eight the
neat morning we mounted mules for Panama, at
the4aie a. sixteen dollars head, reaching the lat
ter city at Z r. M. To describe TO you the rough
ness o. tbs mountain road, is beyond the power Of
my pen. IL IL twenty -one miles long, and | pre-.
sumo, the toughest IN Christendom. Ladies cross
II IN male attlie, hiding like the lords OF creation.
lou are obliged TO tread your way through dew
Gus recesses and narrow chasms OF rock, scarcely
VIDE enough Tor one To pass through, caused,
doubtless, by earthquakes, and frequently encoun.
Ter trains of mules quarter u mile long, laden
with balls Of silver and boxes OF gold duet. You
then are compelled to reirace your steps some
tunes for mlles, which retards, Of COURSE your ar
Iival at the point OF destination. AS you approach
Panama, the road improves. Here let me advise
the avt Her 10 take mules by ali means In prefer
ehce 10 horses, which, however, are scarce. The
iUmer are tuie-footed, and rarely fall the latter
frequently.
On The following day, I took the New Granada
lor lalparalso, where we arrived on the 2jth of
December, Col Potter, the United States Consul,
beng one OF the passengers. hnd that aia
growing pTosy, so | will close this letter with
useful hint or tive. My next shall be of a more
commercial character. wish to open the eyes Of
the NoIih American to the wealth If South Ame-
our people IN these distant countries. | will com
munIoaIe wiki you monthly.
The man who sails for California, If he wish, In
the iiTsi place, to consult economy, should convert
bundled or Two Of hls money into dimes. Eight
pass for dollar from Chagres to Panama. la the
second place ,.he should neglect to get suitable
gum elastic garments, Tor the rains, and the wear
and tear Of travelling. In the third place, by all
means, II you wish 10 get on rapidly, select a small
canoe, ana man u well, with at lsast four oarsmen
ouch no iruit, with which that country so boun-
uiuiy teens. IL ~ an experiment of danger. Pro-
vide yourself with botte or two OF brandy, TO mix
with the water which you are Obliged 10 drink
from the nver. When &C liberated with brandy. n
KEEPS of the "Chsgres fever" In conclusion. lie,
me advise the traveller to pursue the policy OF Tor
besrance and concll atioa towards those seInclvii
lied beings. A well-iimed song wall get you 10
the riVer sooner than an angry scowl or a scodng
oath. Lmxs
Our montsvidtsn Correspondence.
NoSrrupro, Dec. 9th, 1slp
Tntersstiny Tfcma