New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1849-10-20
THE ALPS.
The Valley Of Anzasca, and what was seer
there.
Corfssn,, s-rre u Ire rrhcne.


The VA Anrsscsis best approached from swift
rsrlsnd. because its Italian character has then al
the charm OF novelty. The air 10 balmier-,he
traveller has perceived that as he emerged the al
teruoon before from the stupendous gorge Condo
snd descsnded into the Italian valley Of the Toss
n the long Summer twilight The SAY is bluer-
eyes fnt beholdi0g Italy assert that to the only
too-wiling assent OF one long ago drunk with the
delight Of its beauty. Then the road hss slipped
smoothly % from Demo d'O"ols. under vine
trellises, in the shade of poisoning chssnats
by romantic rorches, across the plain. to Pie di
Mulers.
See how daily about the gates Of Paradise -
Bat YOU have been in Florence. snd Know that the
door, OF the Tt mpe may be dIvinely wrought.
The ascent Of tue Valley commences immediate
Is behind the Inn. IL il a steep, arrow. dark
street ofthe little town. paved IN steps, overriding
hv The h an sombre houses and winding, dark and
damp. under galleries and through the very houses.
IL Is all atone. AM there are only stev listess.
staring faces--hsggard. uothapdsome-diny their
eyes upon yoa ssyou 90
Leaving the houses the path still steeply climb
ing 10 entirely overhung with vines. ltsa long
boser--a trelise graceful and open. and tapestried
with shining leaves. and hang with heavy clusters
Your head brushes the vines as you go. Were
YOU Bscchus they could no, be more loyal. Deli
cate sprays touch your tsce-round rich grapes
come pumping agsius; your cheek all aloos the
SIDES OF the path, Ia the shrines built into the
wall which is old and messy and crumoing, ter
racing the ground, which is like poets whey Ard
for picturesqueness not like thrifty farmers for
the wine. ST Carlo prsys for you, or Santa hosais
srays or the young Sebastian, best beloved Of the
old psiuters and placid Msdonnas foa, in yellow
robes upon bue spaces surrounded with dunplins
winged faces more chubby than cherubic.
ria ~ uot
races the mule stops every few moments 10
breathe, and you at your lofty ease, lock back
ward upon the broad plain Of the Toss, seen
through the mouth Of the valley, and downward,
a long. long slope OF green TO the little River
| ANA beneath A slow train of pack mules climbs
azily before you. hesviy laden with grsIn-bss'
and wine.b barrels they have tinkhng bells
around their neck,, and a boy follows them,
driving
Ills true Italian boy. Yesterday morning. In
the Valley OF the Rhone, some sharp, smart boy
did your bidding, probably, actively but cumsily.
| That bgrly grscelessnes was Swiss and German
and Northern. The lsuguid, eisurely movement
Of thischid is all Slu'hern and Italian His broad.
! brimmed souch-hat has a different character OF
| band it is a broad glazed band, with bright
s.eel buckle. His black velvet jacket 10 carried
csreiessly upon his srm. ike the skirt OF toga -
| He reels rather than walks after his beasts sway
,ng and singing himself aeairss the side OF the
|
or to throw stone lazlly at lazng mule
" Heigh-Plco, allez :"
| These houses too, arc not Sxiss. Stone struc-
tares. with galleries and balconies, and dark and
dirty. They are very lofty and packed closely
| together and the path steals shrinking In the
damp dusk between tnem. II, Ia one OF the ois,
all OF which are open, ss we pass. poor pale
idiot stands with hanging hands and lustreiess
| =, es and your eve firds reireshneut behind
dim in the squsid sorrow OF his wretched home,
t 10 only the Haunting weed IN the glorious gar
den, sucking from /; the sans intense lie ilr
| oil sht that the rose OF delight we see ami smell
| everywhere sucks Tor beauty.
Three quarters OF an hour brings the traveller to
the little town Gina the top OF the hill, or rath
er on the highest point of the road. By this time
| ne Is In the mazesCt she enchantment. The clouds
| cluster white and vspory around the mountain
ridges, fairs fantastic, like the irail fances OF
champssnc-drunk brain. he air 10 grateful aud
| genial very warm bat not whitening, al amounting
If honey upon velvet for lungs rasped by glacier
winds. Lgled by the rocking OF bis easy seat
| the wsnderer is stepped in Italy and dreams
dreams
The road, built high upon the mountain slope OF
| southern exposure, IL never horizontal. IL onl
| paved mule path although a carriage road is al
! ready bull, lew miles into the valley, and at a
poins perhaps two hours or less from Phi di Mule
| "a, the most Characteristic view OF the valley
| presents itself IL 10 q narrow winding pass Do
! tween The slopes OF mountains Al pine In thsi'
hisht and Italian in their luxurIancs. The north
crn .ids is indeed altogether Alpine, except nesr
rs base, but OF the most lovely and loxursnt Al
pine character There is no plain. only the bed
Ol the river ANA, stream that slips singing from
| Monte Ross, bu. goes sometimes roaring and
| shouting &C the mountains more nearly approach
", leave IL only profound, awful chasm az
channel
Those who know the Lake Of Como well may
unite the most yoluptuous slope Of the Como arm
| OF the lake, heightened exceedingly, with tho
sleeper. rousher sides Of the Lecco branch, and
crownng the vista 60 formed with the shining sa.
ciers Of Monte Ross-Ihey can picture the Val
| Anzascs.
But they, too. know only too well that the buzz
Of bee folded in the heart OF magnolia dsscrib
IS we bis delight, as words Indicate the luscious
| languor Of satisfaction Ia Summer Italy. Never
theles shall buzz little, and you may close
your ears or not
We stand under this chapel porch and look ont
over the Valley or 500 perpendicular feet above
the dashiog. foamy little Anza For the mnses
| Of our picture sre the immense mountain sides,
| soping at various angles, cleft nth ravines.-
| Huge outrageous chesnuts clothe them, fantasti.
| cslly overgrown and self wreathed with spurs and
sprays and suckers, as II for the love Of growing,
with vast NOISY limbs wrested and wrought Ia the
| frenzy OF Titsn,c sculpture as Hell a. smoothly
developing and developed. Fruit trees OF all
kinds-vines banked ia irregular terraces, whose
walls are picturesque, mingng all, their glossy
freshness OF verdure 10 one mas, now steeply now
slowly, sloping toward the stream, where there
are angles and gorges, and cliffs, clothing them,
stealing the sharpness from angles, and the bar.
rcnness from chfs. These are varied with bill
winnings, and juttings and sbattings-with old
bridges over dry or drying hillstreams, such a.
a especially made for srtists 10 draw, NOS TOT
people to pass over and on round, plump Mill
points deeply set 10 the soft ASS Of solfs green
those Italian vllages-so picturesque 70 the past
lag Poet. 50 appalling 70 the pausng Travel
sr. with endless graceful confusion Of color.
and balcony and arch, and spires, and val
and roof overgrown with vine, and flower. and
messy vases upon stately. decayiDs gate-posts,
| overaoxin ith sloes add out OF the marvellous
midst Of distant charms bells calling masicsly
down the valley, Ia quick, winning, Wooing pas
| sOnate pulses OF sound.
Tn. is the material Of the Va Ar isca aswe see
il from any high bold point. Bat the ltaiian ianI-
scspe is as much beauty Of detail. II aooaeas
| With what artists call &" 6lts." That 10 isscinsSps
| yrouos Of broken walls. shrnes steps gates nh
sze, which are pictares OF themselves % lns' .ne
Portfolio Of Studies Of an Artist 10 ilAy
gallery Of gens OF the picturesque. ihefec's ~
oar baouv valley il is the charm OF every point a.