The spirit of democracy. [volume] (Woodsfield, Ohio) 1844-1994, 1849-12-22

IlohOCu Iho ihlHu VI my companion
was no less absorbed; and thus we paced
on side by side in the dim starlight, with
out exchanging more than an occasional
syllable. At length the light broke gradu-
ally in faint red bars behind dark wavy
summit. 1t was the Mount of Olives! A
long line Of walls, with here and there
tower and dome, loomed up and began to
redden with the increasing light; and. as
the crimson streaks became more and more
intensely vivid, with feeling more like
dreaming than waking, we found ourselves
at the gate of Jerusalem. While the sen.
tinel within was unbarring it, we held a
brief consultation, when it was decided
that | should remit the pilgrim lady to her
legitimate protectors, the monks of the
Roman Catholic convent, while sought
out for myself the abode of friend who
was then locum tenens for the absent
consul.
During my stay at jerusalem | saw but
little OF my companion, but, on joining
some travellers who were about to 90 down
TO the Jordan and to the Dead Sea-an
excursion which, though short is both fa-
tiguing and perilous-Madame proved to
be one ofthe party. Atnightfall we reach
ed the extraordinary Convent of st. Saba,
among the wild deserts of the Jordan, and
here found that lest the sanctity of the
brethren should be compromised, women
were never admitted within the walls, a
solitary tower without being appointed as
their receptacle. Thither repaired with
lay servant, whose Office it was to attend
to the wants of the female pilgrims. Stun
bling in the dark over the rocky ground
we reached at length the base of the tower,
standing, quite insulated, upon the brink
of tremendous precpice. Here the lay
brother, handing me the suppcr-basket,
planted ladder so as to form a commmu-
ncation with the portal, which was eleva-
ted some twenty feet above the ground;
and then, ascending, drew forth key and
unlocked the small heavy door which gave
access to this female asylum, or rather
prison. The room we entered was empty,
and, by another ladder, we assembled to
the upper story, which was furnished with
some little attention to the bodily, but also
to what was more consulted, the costly
comforts of its gentle inmates. Pictures
and images of saints adorned the walls of
a small oratory, which was niched into
the side ofthe apartment, over which few
lamps cast dim uncertain CLEAN, leaving
its extremties in gloomy obscurity. Up
on low divan satthe object ofour search,
with her usual expression Of calm and
fearless tranquility. Her simple supper
was brought forth, and, while she was en-
gagged with it asked her whether she did
not feel timid at being left in utter solitude.
In fact, the dim, dreary.looking chamber
above, the total darkness of the lower sto.
ry, the horrible stiffness Of the place,
were all calculated to act upon nervous
imagination, and to awaken a train of dis
NAL and superstitious fancies. When
Captain Basit Hall and his daughters Wis.
tied the place, the ladies had refused to be
thus incarccrated, and stormcd away till
allowed to enter the convent walls. Not
so, however, the German pilgrim; she de-
clared that she never was more comforta-
BILE, and refused my offer to remain on
guard in the lower story Of the tower. Ac-
cordingly, we departed, and locked her
up snug for the night,
Long before sunrise the next morning
we were all mustered, including Madame,
before the gate of the convent, and wended
our way to the awful shores of the Dead
Sea and the valley of the Jordan. Not to
dwell upon these well-known scenes, suf
flee it to say that the power ofcndurance of
the whole party were never so severely
tried. That night we bivaucked under a
tree, and rising by starlight, returned to
Jerusalem, most thoroughly knocked up.
Here lost sight Of my interesting and
intrepid friend. On returning to Europe
often reverted to our adventures, and won
dered what would be the end ofher strange
passion for rambling, which "seemed to
grow by what it fed on" Conceive my
surprise at finding last autumn the follow
ing notice of her in the "New York Liter
ary World" under the head of "What is
talked about"
"Madame Ida Pfeiffer, of Vienna, has
arrived in this city, furnished with letters
from our missionaries. She formerly Wis.
tied the East, and has written her travels.
She has since carried away bricks from
Nineveh, passed through Persia, and look
ed in upon Gutzlaff in China. On her way
hither through the Brazils, she was attack
ed by robbers, against whom she defend
ed herself bravely. cutting off the fingers
of one of her antagonists, and being her.
self wounded in the struggle. After re-
naming with us awhile, she will return to
her native city, from which she departed
on her adventurous expedition
VIII. B.