The republic. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1849-1853, 1849-12-31


during my journey from the Victory in 1882 and
which hoped TO have attained on this occasion,
well to have revisited the magnetic pole, in its
immediate vicinity; and had not SO many of our
party broken down, II might have been accom-
plished.
e'We observed several small bays and inlets be-
tween and the southernmost capes OF whose con-
tinuity we could not be assured Of great a dis
| lance, yet they marked on the chart which
accompanies this account of our proceedings, by
which il will be perceived that very narrow 18th
mus separates Prince Regent Inlet from the western
sea at Creswell and Brentford bays.
con our return 10 the encampment found they
| had all been well occupied during absence.
Lieutenant MClintock had taken some magnetic
observations which will be of great value from our
being sosloar to the magnetic pole. Twoofth party
had cut through the ice, which they found to be
eight feet thick, and fixed pole by which the state
of the tides ascertained and all the rest that
could work had erected large cairn Of stones on
high knoll just above the tents, in which copper
cylinder was placed csstaining an account OF our
proceedings, and all necessary information for the
guidance of any of Sir John Franklin's party that
might be journeying along this coast.
"Although our resources did not admit OF any
further perseverance on part, could not but
feel satisfaction in the assurance, that If those
of whom we were in search had at any time been
upon the north west coast of North Somerset, we
| must have met with some traces OF them. The sea-
for travelling in these regions had also passed
away, the thaw having commenced; and had they
abandoned their ships at Melville island, they must
have arrived either of these shores long before
| this time, where they would have found in the
best possible position to render them assistance and
conduct them TO vessels.
''We set forward on our homeward journey on
the evening of the 9th Of June, and, after encoun-
terng variety Of difficulties to which need not
further allude, reached the ship onsthe 23d,
the party SO completely worn out by fatigue that
every man was from some cause or other in the
| Doctors hands for two or three weeks, and am
sorry say that two of them not yet recovered
81 had walked in advance of the party to select
the best road by which to the isthmus and as
o,Dhtn f rlfan
| Bird and Lieutenant Mcclure from which was
greatly grieved to hear of the decease of Mr.. Henry
Matthias the assistant surgeon of the Enterprise, of
consumption, which had been deeply rooted In his
| constitution before leaving England. He
promising young man, Of great amiability OF dis
| position universally beloved and regretted. Seve-
raj others of the crews of both ships were in de-
Ginning state. and the general report of health was
| by means cheering.
"During my absence Capt. Bird had despatched
| parties in several directions. One under the COM
mand of Lieutenant Barnard, TO the north shore of
| Barrow Strait; a second commanded by Lieutenant
Brown TO the shore of Prince Regent Inlet; and
| third, conducted by Lieutenant Robinson, along
the western shore of that inlet The abors of these
parties of comparatively short duration; still
they, like ourselves all suffered from snow blind
ness, sprained ANGLES, and debility, especially that
under Lieutenant Robinson, who extended his ex-
animation OF the coast for several miles TO the south
| ward of Fury Beach
although it was but too evident, from no
| traces of the absent expedition having been met
/
| not have been detained any where in this part Of
the Arctic regions yeti considered proper to push
forward TO the westward as soon as our ships should
| be liberated from their winter harbor. My chief
hopes now centred in the efforts of Sir John Rich
ardson's party, for felt fully persuaded that Sir
| John Frankns ships must have penetrated SO far
| beyond Melville island to induce him to prefer
making for the continent of America rather than
seek assistance from the whale ships in Baffin bay
| sour crews, weakened by incessant exertion,
were in very unfit state to undertake the heavy
1 ln<1
| son at this place extremely backward that
hardly pool OF was 70 be seen on the surface
| the line OF gravel which had been spread out to-
wards the harbor's mouth during the winter and
there appeared but small prospect of any release
| this season.
| "All hands that were able commenced with saws
extending the breadth Of the cansl--so much 30 as
10 admit the ships 10 pass down il towards the point
OF the hsrbor distance Of rather more than two
| miles.
"These iabors continued until the 18th Au-
| gust, when, the canal being nearly finished, the
harbor ice divided along it, line into two nearly
| equal parts, and thus saved a few days' work;
but the ice To seward remained TO all appearance
| az firmly fixed as during the winter, but we could
perceive was wasting away close along the Shores
and IL not until the 2Sth of August that we sue
ceeded ian getting clear of the harbor.
"Bciore leaving Port Leopold had caused a
house tn be built OF our spare spars, and covered
with such Of our housing cloths could dis
pense with. and for which could find a substi-
fuel and other necessaries, together with the lnves
| tgator's steam CINE and launch, which had been
! heightened seven feet for the purpose, and now
formed fine vessel capable of conveying the whole
OF Sir John Franklin's party 20 the whale ships, or
ourselves should any calamity befall our ships ia
! their progress 20 the westward.
1--WE now proceeded towards the north shore of
Barrow Strait for the purpose of following up the
examination of Wellington Channel, and, il posi-
BILE, of extending researches as far as Melville
island; but when about u miles from the shore,
! came to the fixed land ice, which had not broken
away this season, and nothing but uniform sheet
| OF heavy Ice was 10 be seen 20 the westward
1--WE kept the ships near that which appeared TO
be the most probable spot, wstching for any open
! ing that might present itself when a strong wind
suddenly arising ON the LIST Of September broughtx
the loose pack through which we had been strug-
i Cling, down upon, and closely beset the ships. At
/ times, during two or three days, they sustained
severe pressure, and ridges OF hummocks were
| thrown up all around us; but after that time the
temperature, falling To zero, formed the whole body
OF ice iRto one solid mass. We were crcum-
stanced that for some days could not unship our
/ ruddor, and when, by the laborous operation of
saving and removing the hummocks from under
the stern, we we're able TO do So we found il twisted
and damaged; and the ship much strained
as to increase the leakage from three inches in a
fortnight 10 fourteen inches daily, which, though of
but trihing importance at present, served TO con
vince us that she was not, rs We had hitherto be
/ lcved, invulneable.
"Tbc ice was stationary for n few days; the pre.
bad folded the lighter pieces over each other
/ anu they were 40 intcraced, as to form entire
/ sheet, extending from shore to shore of Barrow
Straits and az far 10 tho east and west as the eve
/ could discern from the mast head, whilst the ex
| trene severity OF the temperature had cemented
the whole 50 firmly together that il appeared high
y improbable that II could break up again this sea
son. In the space which had been cleared away for
unshPping the rudder, the newly formed ice was
10 inches thick and in places along the shin.
side the l3 feet saws were too short TO work
owe had now fully made up our minds that the
ships were liked for the winter and, dismal a. the
prospect appeared, it was sar preferable 10 beno,
carried along the west coast Of Bafin bav where
the grounded bergs are in such numbers upon the
shallow banks on that shore as TO render il next TO
impossible for ships involved in a PACK To csrsne
destruction. -
1T was, therefore, with a mixture of hope and
anxiety that on the wind shifting to the westward
We perceived the whole BODY of ice begin 10 drivs
TO the eastward at the rate Of eight or ten miles
daily. Every effort ON part totally una
waning, Tor no human power could have moved ei-
thcr Of the ships a single inch: they were thus com
pletely taken out Of our hands, and, in the centre