The New York herald., 1849-02-04
FuNoHAL ROADS,
U. 8. SAIP ERIE, Oct. rs, 1913. s
Vietp of EaDoI

Vie0 of Fayal.
we did not anticipate touching at Fayal when
we left the United States. An errand of humanity
took us out Of our course to escort French vessel
In distress.
When discovered from the sea, Fayalhas a verv
inviting appearance. A bold rock bound coast
swes into lofty and irregular line of highlands.
On near approach, the cliffs and soil assume the
characters Of volcanic formations. The hill sides,
eeometrcally divided by hedges of cane into vine
yards or farm plots, present great variety OF pro-
ductons, andare clothed IN various colors by the
different crops. You NAV see q similar diversity
oilandscape from the top OF HOly0ke, as if the
face of the country were tatooed, or divided into
sections, and cOlored like map.
The passage between the Islands of Fayal and
PIco Is about fifteen miles wide. A curved bay,
which being completely open to the northeast, and
from the sOuihe as to southwest but little better
than open roadstead Gales OF great violence set
into the harbor from these open points, and It ia
requisite to watch the weather with great Wig,
lance, and to be prepared to slip on q change of
wind into the exposed quarter.
The bill-shaped peak of Pico, the first object
which greets the eye of the mariner, Is seen on
one side OF the harbor, springlDg from the bosom
of the sea, and attaining the elevation of Mt
Washington. Extinct as volcano, 1T still shoulders
and emlts clouds OF steam from it's caverDs or its
summit, sometimes capped with snow. The tra-
weller who crosses its crater, quickens his foot
steps over the heated soil, or may bathe IN hot
springs at ts base. These vents OF the central fire
are esteemed the safety-valve of Fayal, where
susterranean noises are followed by the shocks OF
earthquakes.
The town, Villa Orta, built upon the border Of
the bay, forms beautiful amphitheatre, extending
from one promontOry to the other. You are re-
mided of the Roads and city OF Macao, by the same
semi-cicular bay, hanked by cultivated heights
and grt by sea wall by the same salient fort and
k
heights In the rear, and with narrow ascending
streets without footwalks; by the same bizarre
public edlfces, and that uniform style Of private
dwellings, which mark the Portuguese all over the
world. Beng built upon declvity, the town, as
seen from the harbor, has the appearance Of con-
siderable magnitude, and even OF architectural
pretenslon But the illusion is gone the moment
the foot touches the shore. The low dark houses,
the narrow streets, rregularly paved, the dilapl-
date forts without ermaments, the colleges and
religious edifces falling from neglect or converted
into secular offices hospitals, all offend the eye
and speak OF degeneracy and decay, These COL
leRes and religious institutions are the only me-
morals of that enterprise and devotion to letters
which, 300 years ago. plaLted the colonies with
seats of learning and noble charities, unless we
may discover the worst effects of mental culture
IN the sIft and indolent character Of the present
impotent race.
Our visit here introduced US to the hospltalites
of the numerous and charming family OF our con-
eul. Their houses, somewhat lnsul, ,ted from the
town, are among the most charming spots | have
ever visited Ia their cultivated circle one seems
to be surrounded with everything which can make
lite agreeable. The hOspltalltes and charms of
this mansion have long ago distinguished It, and
invited notice from abler pens than mine, whose
success in making an interesting picture has not
done Justice TO the subject. To fail in describing
is only to meet with the same defect which has
oyertaken others
A climate of perpetual summer, diversity Of
grand and picturesque scenery, and prolific soil,
teeming with noble trees and profpslon OF rare
and beautiful plants, combine to make this spot
like the gardens on the slopes OF Eden" gen.
tie dccliviry is divided by hedges OF geranium and
myrtle, and neatly terraced by low walls, clothed
with rare vines. Equatorial plants, which we
sometimes succeed IN rearing In conservatorles
with fond and jealous culture, here spring up In the
open air The aloe, the camella, and others the
most delicate, thrive more luxurlanty than In their
tropic home. The coffee, banana, and orange,
eve n the aromatic splces-the nutmeg, and emma
mop--grow upon the same soil with the most hardy
of our foieet and fruit trees, and our common wild
and garden flowers. Our choicest plants, hardly
Distinguished amid the protuslon OF beautiful OBJ
ierts n round the IN, attain most remarkable size
NV notice was especially directed to magnificent
camelia, with trunk foot in d, ameter, rising ten
or twelve feet, and expanding with perfect symme-
tiy. It's enamelled leaves were gemmed with
buds and blossoms. With so many facilities tor
the culture, you may imagine what a paradise a
fYmly of fortune and taste, devoted to the pursuit,
might rear in life time. =,
While YOU see around you nothing but plants and
blossom and breathe only fragrance and dclight,
yIsta's. opening as 1t were by accident, lead the
charmed eye to the barber and shipping, and the
majestic form of Pico, not more than fifteen miles
distant / am told that no artist has ever made Il
faithful sketch OF Plco though many have attem't-
ed IT. The eye is constantly pleased, but He'd,
bv the variety of its changes. Its nearness and out
line sharply defined TO Its very summit, render 1t
difficult to preserve the proper relation OF distance
between the naked upper region and the cultivated
e.. afnrn m N ~
Inv moonlight was pronounced the most faithful
The changing clouds are ever shifting the scene,
and producing picture alter picture, each dliierent
from it's edecessor but each perfect and beauti-
tuI Now ehroudpd in its misty mantle, the whole
mountain is obscured, or the gleam OF Its pointed
summit, sprnging like sugar loat IRON the bosom
of fhe crater, may be seen piercing the blue SKY.
Now IT discloses only is barren and iurrowed up
rer regions, IN all their natural wldness and sub
i,mltv. where the hand OF man has written no
change nor vegetation conccals the petrlhed chan
nels of lava; now glrdled by zone OF rosy clouds,
the lower districts, luxulant with vineyards and
pssturea, embroidered with aromatic gardens, and
dotted with the white cottages OF the peasanry, are
seen in striking contrast with the nhkedness and
fterllity of the summit. There is In the grandeur
ri the mountain tor unclothed with verdure, rldged
and scanned with the congeaed streams OF former
eruptions now unalerably hxed, but sun preserv-
ING the appearance Of fluldity and motion, close
resemblance to that valley OF barrenness aud ruin
described by LamartIne IN his journey through Lee
banon, which by bold figure he compares to " the
petrified waves of granite flood, "a cataract oi
rocks and "vIslon OF the last hours OF the world,
when all shall have been consumed by fire."
The mountain is too near, and too sharply a z.
fined. on a clear day, not to be wanting In tndt
.ha adowiness and mystery which belong TO the
highest sublime: But standing IN cultivated
g,ounds. such as have described, and catching
view of its surffringed base, its vine cad slopes
and its naked top, and IT'S graceful ouIneMe rn,
general picture, everchanglng INTO new ad r,'d,
mo northumberland you cannot but teei lis mar
men,ous ne relation to the garden scene around yOu
Without being offended by any laharom,oTs na or
and i6e calmness of its repose and
the mere sensual pleasure derived from proiuslon
~ nIa ms and boss oms, refined into more correct
onf Elevated perceptions of the beautiful. associa-
ted ted with the thoughts Of the Great It. Framer OF OF
worlds, who lifted the % volcano a IRON .ne sea- ana
bv lbe same agency, can oveItnrn It by the roots,
and in whose presence 1t will again be melted as
wax.
PIco IS the summer resort Of the people OF Fayal,
at least OF SO many OF them as are considerable