The spirit of democracy. [volume] (Woodsfield, Ohio) 1844-1994, 1849-12-08
OoDsFIELD, OHIO, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 5, 1S4s

scending to the large hall of the convent,
we partook Of coffee and other refresh.
ments, and by request, registered our
names in book containing among sever
al hundred autographs those of Lamartine,
Champmartin, Taylor, and other noted
European travellers. We paid liberal
gratuity and took our leave.
The two next days our route lay south
west, down the rich and beautiful vale OF
Sharon. The land was all under cultiva-
ton, and principally sown with wheat and
Indian corn. Moreluxuriant crops have
never seen on the Western continent
They attested soil naturally teeming
with fatness, and indeed flowing with milk
and honey. Yet all the people were poor
ly clad, and poorly housed. Their dis
tance from good market nearly CANCEL.
ed all the bounties of nature. We pass
ed many old fortresses of the Crusader,
sinking into ruin, and fast becoming un-
seemly wrecks, and yet thrillingly elo-
quent Of chivalrous courage and devotion,
and all the highest and most heroic quail
ties of the human soul We also passed
many ruins of buildings burned in the
bloody contentious almost constantly GO
ing on between the people Of this district
and those of Nablous and the country fur
ther east We encamped the second
evening at Ramleh, pretty town situated
among palm trees, on the high road be-
tween Jaffa and Jerusalem, and once, it
ia said, the residence Of Joseph Of Arma-
thea.
The next morning we paid and dismiss
ed our soldier-guide, and gave him smile
of admiration, as with his flowing robes
and fine martial figure, he bounded away
on his Arab steed towards his distant home.
Our route now lay directly east. We rode
for hours over smooth and well-cultivat-
ed country, and then reached an extreme
ly rugged and barren region. The path
became steep and obstructed with large
stones, and the rocky surface, covered
with nothing but scanty mould, reflected
the burning rays of the sun with intense
power. Our patient beasts for hours toll
ed on, up hill and crag, till they were al
most overcome with heat and WEAKNESS.
Yet full of ardor and buoyancy, we press
ed on. At last we surmounted ridge
| higher than the rest, and continued for a
distance over plain ofnaked rock, whose
reflected head was almost terrific, and a
slight turn in the road suddenly brought us
within full view, not single mile distant,
of the cleaning walls and ramparts of
jerusalem. Ny sensations as that sight
first struck me, will never adulterate with
words. 1t was the proudest moment OF
my life--a moment which will defy obliv-
ion so long as particle of my memory
endures. - ...
Our journey from Beyrout, exclusive Of
our stay in Damascus, had occupied fif-
teen days, and was a continued scene of
the liveliest interest and enjoyment. 1t
was the loveiest portion of the year; the
trees were decked with their brightest ver-
dure and gayest blossoms, and the soil
was gemmed with an almost infinite vare-
ty ofwild flowers, The skies were cloud
less, but the rays of the sun were temper-
ed by gentle breezes, and on only one or
two days was the heat oppressive. We
were both in glorious health and spirits
both in frame Of body and mind to en-
oy every thing to the utmost. Our men
did their duties nobly, and our cook, espe.
cially, won for himself imperishable re-
nown by his spit, if not by his spear. Like
all other travellers in Syria. whether ma
tive or foreign, we went well armed, as
prudence required; but in no instance did
we experience the slightest trouble. Two
circumstances contributed to our safety.
In the southern and most dangerous
part of the country it was harvest time,
and the gun of the bandit had been ex-
changed for the sickle of the reaper
Government withal, stimulated by the in
dignant complaints of the British Consul
at Beyrout, on account of the recent rob-
berry and brutal treatment of an English
man at Nehlcus, had sent down into the
country several hundred of troops, to af.
ford some kind of protection. We were
told, that & month before, not fifty armed
men could have safely taken our route.
from Nazareth down the plain of Sharon.
We were usually obliged to pitch our tent
in some village, on account of the inse-
curity of the open country. Our first ap-
pearance always produced sensation,
and as soon as we halted, the villagers of
both sexes, and ofall ages and conditions,
would flock around, and watch every mo-
ton with the most eager curiosity. They
would survey the cooks proceedings, in
preparing dinner, with intense interest.
and when we sat down to dine, would
stare at our mode OF eating, as if such
famous doings had never been seen in the
world before. We once called a big lus-
ltvfiei,aw out of the crowd, and offered
him preserved apricot; after some hesi-
tation he took it most gingerly from the
fork, put it into ms mouth with great So
briefly, and turning Ills ewes upward, ex-
claimed, with great earnesu,ee ess' IN Ar
abic,, ,"Wohaarfalr' They generan,r, con-
slider all Franks as magicians; and if they