The republic. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1849-1853, 1849-06-27
THE REPU BhIC.
From the Ns,c Orleans Crescent
ISTHMUs OF TEHUANTEPEC.

Description Of Country, People, Manners, sc.
VERA Cruz, MEXICO, June Z, l649. 4
Eds Crescent: Called here by business in April,
inclination, as well the desire for information,
led me TO take trip down TO the lsthmus of Te-
huantepec, and across to the Pacific. Thinking II
may perhaps be Of interest to your readers, send
you a sketch of my journey. | left here on the
18th of April on small coasting schooner, for the
Coatzacoalcos river, about 100 miles below Vera
Cruz. What with putting into Alvarado and
battling winds IT was nearly week before We ar
rived at our destination The coast where the
Coatzacoalcos enters the Gulf runs about east and
west-the river almost north and SOUTH Found
IL feet water the bar, and the easy. In
the river was Dutch brig--the Christian, of 300
tons burden-loaded with mahogany, and bound
for Bremen. Eight leagues up is the small town of
Minatitlan, for which place our vessel was bound
There were two schooners here from Campeachy
loaded with salt. Between the two places there is
some little raffc-salt being bartered for hides
frlJoles, (beans,) peonces, (sugar,) and ixtla,
species of hemp made from the cactus. On inquiry,
learned that could proceed up the river above this
place TO the Paso Sarabla and thence across by land
to Iehuantepec. accordingly made my arrange
ments, hired canoe and two Indians, and obtained
an interpreter in the mate Of the schooner, who vol
unteered for the service All things ready, we left
Minatitlan on the morning of the 9Th May. The
manner of proceeding was by polling along the
shore, which was done by the boatmen while nv
companion and myself steered. Our progress was
necessarily slow and tedious-very seldom making
more than league an hour. The river in the
course of this day continued broad and deep. af-
fording sufficient water for any vessel that could
cross the bar BY night we had accomplished ten
leagues, and got to a village called Almagres The
name is derived fiom kind of red earth used bv
the Mexlcans for marking purposes. Here we
rested for the night. | found al this place an old
Frenchman, who treated me kindly, offering me the
hospitalities of his house. He one, as he in
off ar & Il. IL
out from France In 1880. Disease and dsappoint-
ment (many returning home) have reduced them
from IOO 10 Is or 20, who are scattered in the little
villages of the country.
The mosquitoes here abounded, as they do all
along the river. Fortunately had bar which
found to be very useful. An early start was made
next morning Before getting off however old
Raynal came down TO the boat with two large
punches of pantains, which he begged me to ac-
cept. Thanking the old man we pushed off. The
morning was cool and pleasant. The banks of the
rverwere overgrown with rich and luxuriant vegeta
ton; the tall and graceful palm with It's coumn-like
stem and umbrella top, lowered above all its forest
compeers. Then there was the spreading mahoe-
any, so valuable In commerce, and thousands Of
other tropical trees to me- The birds made
the woods vocal with their music although some of
the sounds were rather dissonant such as the
screechlng of the parrots and macaws The plu-
mage of the latter is beautiful There were hundreds
OF monkeys gambollng about in the branches of the
trees. They were not the least disturbed by the
boat, but would allow TO approach quite near
The river, with its rapid current, flowed on clear
and transparent as a mountain brook. | could see
the pebbly bottom below the canoe glided over
1t. In this climate all labor must be performed in
the morning and evening. The heat of the day is
too excessive 10 admit of exertion We laid up
under the shade at midday, and killed the hot
hours by bathing, dining, and sleeping. | never
knew before the luxury of bath there is no de-
sc1bing the refreshing and lnvgorating sensations
experienced In plunging into the crystal waters of
the rver sheltered from the rays of old Sol by some
overhansing tree When the sun got pretty well
IN the west, We proceeded our way and had
made IL leagues when we encamped for the night
will not enter into further detail of my canoe
voyage. We arrived at Paso Sarabia on the sixth
day from Minatuan-a steamer could have accom-
plished the same in Above Almagres there
are no settlements, except some few camps of Ma
hogany cutters. The river will admit small
steamer drawing three feet water to within twenty
leagues OF Sarabla, at its present stage being its
lowest was informed by one Of the 6oatmen that
II commenced rising IN June, (the beginning of the
rainy season. and continued full to March during
which time II was frequently above its banks.
Below Paso Saraba for 10 or Is leagues it becomes
narrow and shallow, with innumerabe falls over
which 1t was with difficulty we could force our
canoe. There was no settlement Saraba. u be-
ing nothing more than place Of embarkaton. The
road, or more properly mule path, starts from here
10 Tehuantepec, distant some 80 leagues
We were per force obliged 10 foot il for 10
leagues 70 the first village, Boca del Monte where
we expected TO obtain horses. IL was weary
walk through the woods, over hill and dale The
two Indian boatmen (who were 10 remain at Boca
until returned from Tehuantepec) took il easy
they were used TO such things but the mate and
myself were nearly used up. We stopped fire.
quently 10 rest AT arroza or small stream by the
way. AT last about shutdown, one Of the men
ahead cried out Lanos' (Pains) and we soon
fgffk
beautiful prospects had ever behed Before as IN
the distance, bounding the southern and western
horizon, rose the tall peaks of the Slerre Madre
tipped with the setting sUnbeams, and at whose
base on the other side rolled the waters Of the Pa
cIhc Ocean-of course shut out from view by their
intervening heights. From where / stood on the
borders OF thick forest TO the main chain OF
mountains, stretched rugged and broken expanse--
the spurs Of the great spine Of the continent.
About mile of smoke was ascending from clus-
ter OF cottages This we knew at once was our
resting place for the night-Boca del Monte. Ii
was welcome sight conjuring up visions Of good
cheer and sound rest Arriving at the village we
soon found the Of the head man. Don Bartolo,
20 whom ] had been provided with letter. He
sitting before his door enjoying a cigarrto IN
the cool twilight. The old man gave as cordial
welcome, and ordered supper 10 be prepared imme-
diately. Fatigue had overcome me, and stretched
out upon the grass plot before the house. / had
nearly fallen asleep when called 10 supper. There
irresistible charm IN the word to one who
had walked 80 miles, and not eaten since morning
We did justice 10 the old mans board. Tortillss
smoking hot soup from the galla1ago, (turtle }
fish, fnjoles, and chicken, washed down
with coffee raised his own estate. In word,
our inner man felt considerably better after the meal
which was followed by sound nights rest The
next morning, entering into conversation with Don
Bartolo. CLEANED the following He was the owner
Of the hacienda Of Boca del Monte The men
his mozas or laborers, employed al from 81 to
90 per month. He raised every thing he consumes
except salt, VIZ sugar, coffee, cocoa corn, fruits,
and also indigo. III had lived on the spot twenty
two years and had but child young 'greasern
whom he pointed out 70 me, the heir apparent Of
the estate. Don B. took much interest IN the pro-
posed road across the lsthmus and talked Of The
benefit that would 70 the country when IL
should be completed.
Distant from Boca 10 leagues is a small place
called Fl Barrio. Thther we rode this day the
18Th. Our reception here was unique as Il wss
hospitable. There are no fondas or public houses
IN the country and we had been referred 10 The