The daily crescent. [volume] ([New Orleans, La.]) 1848-1851, 1849-06-29
he JeweSs of Old Times
HER DRESS AND TOILET.

| PERFUM MES.
Before the hair received its final arrangement
| from the hands of the waiting maid, it was held
open and dshevelled to receive the fumes of frank
incense, aloe wood, cassia, cOstmary, and other
odorous woods, gums, balsams, and spices of India
Arabia, or Palestine-paced upon glowing en-
bers, in vessels of golden fretwork. 1t is probable
| also that the Hebrew ladies used amber bisam
and the musk of Thibet; and, when fully arranged,
the hair sprinkled with oil Of nard, myrrh oil
| of cinnamon, &c. The importance attached to
this part of the Hebrew toilette may be collected
indeed from ordinance of the Thalmud, Ill, so,
which directs that the bridegroom shall set apart
! one-teuth of the income which the bride brings
him. for the purchase of perfumes, essences, pre-
| cous ointments, &c. All these articles We're pre-
served either in golden boxes, in little oval mar
| rOw-necked phials of dazzling white alabaster,
| which bore the name of onyx, from its resem-
bance 10 the precious stone of that name, but was
in fact very costly sort of marble, obtained in the
guarres of Upper Egypt, or those of the Lybanus
in Syria. Indeed, long before the birth of Christ,
aabaser was in such general use for purposes of
this kind in Palestine, that it became the generic
name for valuable boxes, no matter of what ma
terial. To prevent the evaporation of the con-
| tents, the narrow neck of the phal was resealed
every time that it was opened 1t is probable,
also, that the myrrhne cups, about which there has
been so much dIsputing, were no strangers to the
Jewish toilette.
THE MIRROR.
The mirror was not made of glass, (for glass mir
rors cannot be shown to have existed before the
thirteenth century, but Of polished metals, and
among these, silver was in the greatest esteem, as
being capable Off higher FURNISH than other metals,
and less liable to iarnish. Metallic mirrors al
luded to by job, xxxvi, Is. But it appears from
the Second Book of Moses, xviii, g. that in that
age copper must have been the metal employed
throughout the Harems of Palestine For gene
raj contribution of mirrors being made upon one
occasion by the Israelitish women, they Were melt
cd tDND and washing vessels for the
priestly service. Now the sacred utensils as we
know from other sources, were undeniabiy Of cop
per. There is reason TO think, however, that the
copper was alloyed, according 10 the prevailing
practice in that age, with some proportions of lead
and tin In after ages, wien silver was chiefly
employed, it gave place occasionally to gold. Mines
of this metal were well known to Palestine but
there is evidence that precious stones, which
were used for this purpose in the ages of European
luxury, ever used in Palestine, in any
part of Asia.
As to shape the Hebrew mirrors were always
either circular or oval, and cast ndferently flat or
concave. They were framed in superb settings,
often of pearls and jewels; and when furnished,
were cleaned with sponge of hyssop, the univer-
sal cleansing material in Palestine.
THE UNDERDREss.
The reader has been already made acquainted
with the Chemise, or innermost underdress. The
Hebrew ladies', however, usually wore two under
dresses, the upper Of which it now remains to de-
scribe. la substance it was generally of fine
transparent texture, like the musliDs (if may so
call them) of Cos; in the latter ages it was no
doubt of silk.
The chemse safe close up the throat and we
have already mentioned the ella borate work which
adorned it about the opening. But the opening of
the robe, which We are now describing, was of
much larger compass-being cut down 10 the bo-
som ; and the embroidery ETC., which enriched it,
still more magnificent The chemise reached
down only to the calf of the leg and the sleeve of
it to the elbow; but the upper chemise, or tunic,
if we may call it, descended in ample draperes
to the feet-scarcey allowing the point of the foot
to discover itself; and the sleeves enveloped the
hands to their middle. Great pomp lavshed
the folds of the sleeves but still greater the
hem of the robe, and the fringe attached to it, The
hem was formed by broad border of purple
shaded and relieved according to the patterns and
sometimes embroidered in gold thread with the most
elegant objects from the animal or vegetable king
doms. To that part which fell Immediately behind
the heels, there were attached thin plates of gold
or, by way of variety, it was studded with golden
stars and fligree- work; sometimes with jewels
and pearls INTERCHANGEABLE.
THE GIRDLE.
On this upper tunic, to confine the exorbitance
of its draperies, and to prevent their interfering
with the free motions Of the limbs, superb girdle
was bound about the hips. Here, if anywhere, the
Hebrew ladies endeavOred to pour out the whole
pomp of their spendor--both to materials and
workmanship. Belts from three to four inches
broad of the most delicate cOttony substance, were
chosen as the ground Of this important part of fe
male attire. The finest flowers of Palestine We're
here exhibited in rich relief, and in their native
colOrs, either in the loom, or by the needle
of the embrolderer The belts being thirty forty
feet long, and carried round and round the person.
it in the power of the wearer to exhibit in
finite variety Of forms, by allowing any fold or
number of folds at pleasure TO rise up more or less
t" view, just fans or the colOred edges of books
with made TO exhibit landscapes, etc,
pabe of great varieties of expansion as they are
more less unfolded. The fastening by a
knot below the bosom and the two ends descend.
ed below the fringe; which, if not the only fashion
in use, was, however, the prevailing one-as we
learn both by the sCup tures at Persepos, and from
the costume of the High Priest
Great the cost was of these girdes it would
have been far grea er had the knot been exchanged
for clasp; and in fact at later period, when
this fashion did really take place, there was no
limit to the profusion with which pearls of the
largest size, and jewellery were accumulated upon
this conspicuous centre of the dress. Laterly, the
girdles were fitted up with beautiful chains, by
means of which they could be contracted or en-
larged, and with gold buckles and large bosses and
clasps that gradually became the basis for ruinous
display Of expenditure.
In conclusion | must remark, that in Palestine,
as elsewhere, the girde was sometimes used as
purse whether it were that the grdle itself was
made hollow las ia expressly affirmed of the High
Priests grde,) or that, without being hollow, its
numerous foldings afforded secure depository for
articles of small size Even in our day, it is the
custom to conceal the dagger, the handkerchief for
wping the face, and othor bagateles of personal
convenience in the folds of the girdle. However,
the richer and more distinguished classes in Pales-
the appear te have had peculiar and separate
article of that kind. And this was
THE PURSE. o.
purse made either of metal usually gold or
silver,) of the softest leather, etc, which was
attached by lace to the girdle. or kept amongst its
folds, and which, even in the eyes of Isaiah, was
important enough TO merit distinct mention. 1t
was of conical shape; and at the broader end
was usually enriched with ornaments of the most
elaborate and exquisite workmanship. No long
time after the Christian era the cost of these purses
had risen to such height, that Tertullian COM
plains with great displeasure, of the ladies of his