The republic. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1849-1853, 1849-12-31
No. 100.


We had now, at any rate, accomplished one
material point, and rejoiced to find the an
chorage, of which had before been in much
doubt, well adapted to our purpose, and as i was
desirable to secure good position for one ship,
resolved that il should be the winter quarters of the
Investigator.
81 had much satisfaction the next morning to
find how perfectly steam launch fulfilled our
expectations in experimental cruise about the
harbor before proceeding in her to the westward in
search Of harbor for the Enterprise, it was
beyond probability, from the early setting in of the
winter and from the unbroken state of the ice To
reach Melville island this The pack at the
harbors mouth, however, still prevented our imme-
date departure, and all our energies were devoted
to landing good supply OF provisions upon Whaler
Point In this service the steam launch proved of
infinite value, conveying large cargo herself, and
towing two deeply laden cutters at the rate of four
or five knots, through the sheet of ice which now
covered the harbor, and through which no boat,
aided by steam, could have penetrated beyond her
! own length.
"The place selected for the depot upon the
low s. E. point which forms the chief protection TO
the harbor, two miles distant from anchorage.
This work was not only tedious, but sometimes ha-
zardous, from the flows of thin ice folding each
other, and thus forming obstacle at times diff
cult to overcome. Indeed, our operations still
incomplete, when they were interrupted by the ice
in the harbor becoming so thick TO require all
our attention to the ships themselves A prevalence
Of strong easterly winds had caused the pack to
press 80 heavily against the outer margin of the
narDOr Ice, tIat the SHIPS were carried away With
their anchors far up towards the head of the bay
that they grounded at low water. All hands from
both ships were set to work to cut canal and
warp them off the shore. This had scarcely been
accomplished, when another pressure drove
them again into shallow water, and, had we not
fortunately hauled off in time, il is probable the
ships must have laid aground all the winter. The
work Of saving was recommended, and after two
or three days, we succeeded in getting ships
into position of comparative safety. although with
only foot or two OF water to spare at low spring
tides; but the winter had now set in with much
severity that il impossible to keep the people
any longer employed at such work without serious
injury to their health, and their suffering from
we're frost bites.
son the evening of the 18th of October the ships
were hove into their winter position, within 200
yards of each other.
81 was indeed most anxious to have taken the
Enterprise to some distance to the westward, but
any attempt TO leave the ships, under the crcum-
stances Of their situation, would have been highly
Injurious and probably have led 10 some calamity
but the pack which sealed the harbor's mouth the
night after we entered it, never admitted chance
of even boat making her way out; and across the
lsthmus, far we could discern from the hills,
the same extensive mass of heavy, hummocky ice,
which we had coasted along in search of an open
ing i'll the carly part Of September, was still pressed
closely home against the north shore of North Som
erset, and remained fixed there throughout the
winter, that, if the Enterprise had been able to
get out of the harbor she could not have proceeded
far, and would most likely have been compelled
either TO pass the winter in the pack, or to have
turned to England, and thus have defeated all pro-
spectve measures for the assistance of our long alb
sent friends.
"And although / could not but feel extreme dis
appointment at the small advance we had been able
20 make during our first season, yet we had much
TO be thankful for in having been permitted TO gain
secure winter quarters at Port Leopold, position
that of all others the desirable, If any
spot had TO be selected for that purpose Being at
the junction of the four great channels of Barrow
/ ~o.tor I'LL ..,I
Wellington Channel, il was hardly possible for any
party, after abandoning their ships, TO pass along
the shores OF any of those inists without finding in
dications OF the proximity Of our expedition.
"Thc winter passed as are all winters in this
climate. but long experience and liberal means
gave US many comforts that other expedition
had enjoyed; yet il is remarkable that the health
of the crew suffered more during this winter than
on any former occasion. Our want of success
might have tended in measure to depress
their spirits, and, unfortunately the cold Of winter
was prolonged unusually ar into the spring before
we could give them more active employment.
During the winter great many white foxes
were taken alive in traps set for the purpose and
| as II is well known how large tract Of country
these creatures traverse in search of food caused
copper collars, upon which notice Of the position
Of the ships and depots of provisions engraved,
| TO be clcnched round their necks, and then set
them at liberty again. with the hope that some OF
these messengers might be the means Of conveying
the intelligence 10 the Erebus and Terror, as the
crews of those vessels would assuredy be eager for
| their capture.
"After several short preliminary journeys la
! April, and the early part Of the next month, 10
carry out small depots of provisions TO the west OF
Cape Clarence, and 10 the south Of Cape Seppngs,
eft the ships on the 18th Of NAV wtha party con.
sisting of Lieutenant M'Clintock and twelve men,
with forty days provisions, which, together with
tents, clothes, blankets, and other neccssaries,
were dashed upon two slcdges. We were accom-
panied for the FIRST FIVE days Of our Journey by
Cant Rird. N nd AZ "A larag lati rfv
which increased our numbers 10 forty-two. lie
would willingly have extended his valuable assist
ance still further, had not felt that his presence at
the ships would be beneficial to the service Ina
such further measures ] proposed should be-
! adopted during my absence.
"a detailed account Of this journey may be found
in my journal II may be sufficient here 20 men
ton, that the examination of all the inets and
smaller indentsti0ns Of the coast, in which any
ships might have found shelter, occupied large
portion OF time, and cost much labor, but il
was necessary that every portion Of the coast we
passed along should be thoroughly explored.
'Thc north shore Of North Somerset trends slight
ly 10 the northward Of west until after passing the
extreme north Cape Of America, a few miles be-
yond Cape Rennell. From this point IL trends
slightly 20 the southwark Of west, until after round
ing Cape Bunny, when IL suddenly assumes a
nearly south direction.
"From the high land in the neighborhood Of Cape
Bunny we obtained very extensive view, and OBJ
served that the whole space between IL and Cape
Walker 10 the west, and Wellington Channel 10 the
north, was occupied by very heavy, hunmocky
ice, whilst TO the southwark IL appeared more favor
able for travelling therefore determined not to
divide the party az had originally intended. un
I'll we should lind more practicable point for their
cxcrtions.
1--WE therefore proceeded 10 the southwark, trac
ing all the fluctuations of the coast when pro-
gress became much delayed by several of the party
becoming useless from lameness and debility, 80
that II proved most fortunate that had divided
the force, which could only under such circum-
stances, have terminated in the complete failure Of
both; for although the load Of provisions every
day becoming less. the necessity Of carrying two
of the sufferers sedges, and the loss of the
vices Of three others. who had scarcely strength to
walk behind, greatly increased the labor Of the few
who were now able 20 work.
"The examination Of the coast was pursued until
the 5th Of June, when. having consumed more than
half our provisions, and the strength Of the party
being much reduced, was reluctantly compelled
20 abandon further operations as il was, moreover
necessary 10 give the men day Of rest. But that
the time might not be wholly lost, proceeded with
Sergeant Hurditch and William Thompson, a sea
man of greater endurance, to the extreme south
point In sight from oar encampment distant about