The republic. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1849-1853, 1849-12-31

We had now, at any rate, accomplished one
! material point, and rejoiced to find the
chorage, of which had before been in much
doubt, well adapted to our purpose, and as il was
resolved that il should be the winter quarters of the
Investigator.
81 had much satisfaction the next morning to
| find how perfectly our steam launch fulfilled our
xpec tatons in an experimental cruise about the
harbor, before proceeding in her to the westward in
search Of harbor for the Enterprise it was
beyond probability from the early setting in of the
winter and from the unbroken state of the ice, to
reach Melville island this season. The pack at the
harbor's mouth, however, still prevented our imme
date departure, and all energies devoted
to landing good supply of provisions upon Whaler
Point. In this service the steam launch proved of
infinite value, conveying large cargo herself, and
towing two deeply laden cutters at the rate of four
or five knots, through the sheet of ice which now
covered the harbor and through which no boat,
aided by steam, could have penetrated beyond her
own loagth.
'Thc place selected for the depot was upon the
low s. T.. point which forms the chief protection To
the harbor, two miles distant from anchorage.
This work not only tedious, but sometimes ha-
zardous, from the flows of thin ice folding each
other and thus forming obstacle at times diff
cult to overcome Indeed, operations still
incomplete, when they interrupted by the ice
in the harbor becoming thick TO require all
our attention to the ships themselves A prevalence
Of strong easterly winds had caused the pack to
press so heavily against the outer margin of the
harbor ice, that the ships carried away with
their anchors far up towards the head of the bay
that they grounded at low water All hands from
both ships were set to work to cut canal and
warp them off the shore. This had scarcely been
accomplished, when another severe pressure drove
them again into shallow water, and, had not
fortunately hauled off in time, it is probable the
ships must have laid aground all the winter. The
work OF saving was recommended, and, after two
or three days, succeeded in getting ships
into position of comparative safety although with
only foot or two of water to spare at low spring
h,,tk a, koI
severity, that it impossible to keep the people
any longer employed at such work without serious
injury to their health, and their suffering from
we're frost bites.
s.On the evening of the 18th of October the ships
were hove into their winter position, within 200
yards of each other.
81 was indeed most anxious to have taken the
Enterprise to some distance to the westward, but
any attempt to leave the ships, under the circum-
stances of their situation would have been highly
injurious and probably have led to some calamity;
but the pack which sealed the harbors mouth the
night after entered it, never admitted chance
of even boat making her way out; and the
Isthmus, far we could discern from the hills,
the same extensive mass OF heavy, hummocky ice,
which we had coasted along in search of an open
ing III the early part Of September, still pressed
closely home against the north shore of North Som
erset, and remained fixed there throughout the
winter, that, if the Enterprise had been able to
get of the harbor she could not have proceeded
far, and would most likely have been compelled
either to pass the winter in the pack, or to have
turned TO England, and thus have defeated all pro-
spectve measures for the assistance of long alb
sent friends.
"And although could not but feel extreme dis
appointment at the small advance we had been able
10 make during our first season, yet we had much
to be thankful for in having been permitted gain
secure winter quarters at Port Leopold, position
that of all others the most desirable, if any
spot had TO be selected for that purpose. Being
the junction of the four great channels of Barrow
Strait, Lancaster Sound, Prince Regent Inlet, and
" - LI-E
party, after abandoning their ships, to pass along
the Shores of any of those nlsts without finding
| dicatons of the proximity of our expedition.
"The winter was passed as all winters in this
| climate. but long experience and liberal means
gave US many comforts that other expedition
had enjoyed; yet il is remarkable that the health
of the crew suffered during this winter than
| on any former occasion. Our want of success
might have tended in some measure 20 depress
their spirits, and, unfortunately the cold Of winter
was prolonged unusually FAR into the spring before
we could give them more active employment.
! During the winter great many white foxes
were taken alive in traps set for the purpose and
as 1t is well known how large a tract Of country
these creatures traverse in search of food caused
copper collars, upon which notice Of the position
of the ships and depots of provisions graved
| to be clenched round their necks and then set
them at liberty again, with the hope that some of
| these messengers might be the means of conveying
| the intelligence TO the Erebus and Terror as the
crews of those vessels would assuredly be eager for
| their capture.
| after several short preliminary journeys in
April, and the early part Of the next month 20
carry out small depots OF provisions the west Of
Cape Clarence, and to the south of Cape Seppings
left the ships the 18th of May with party con
sistng of Lieutenant M'Clintock and twelve men,
with forty days provisions, which, together with
! tents clothes, blankets, and other neccssaries
were dashed upon two slcdges We were accom-
panied for the FIRST five days Of journey by
Capt. Bird, in command Of a large fatigue party,
| which increased numbers TO forty two. He
would willingly have extended his valuable assist
ance still further, had not felt that his presence at
the ships would be beneficial to the service Ina
sending forth such other parties and completing
| such further measures ! proposed should be
| adopted during my absence.
"a detailed account of this journey may be found
in my journal; 1t may be sufficient here to men
| ton, that the examination OF all the inlets aud
smaller indentatiOns of the coast, ina which any
ships might have found shelter, occupied a large
portion OF our time, and cost much labor, but il
was necessary that every portion Of the coast VIC
passed along should be thoroughly explored.
"The north shore Of North Somerset trends slight
ly TO the northward Of west, until after passing the
extreme north Cape of America, few miles be-
| yond Cape Rennell. From this point il trends
slightly 10 the southwark of west, until after round
ing Cape Bunny, when il suddenly assumes
| nearly south direction.
"From the high land in the neighborhood of Cape
Bunny we obtained very extensive view, and OBJ
served that the whole space between il and Cane
! north, was occupied by very heavy, hummocky
ice, whilst to the southwark il appeared more favor
able for travelling. ] therefore determined not to
divide the party, as had originally intended. un-
til we should find more practicable point for their
excrtons
1--WE therefore proceeded 10 the southwark, trac-
ing all the fluctuations of the coast when our pro
gress became much delayed by several of the party
becoming useless from lameness and debility, ~
that il proved most fortunate that had not divided
the force, which could only under such circum-
stances, have terminated in the complete failure Of
both; for although the load Of provisions every
day becoming less, the necessity Of carrying two
of the sufferers sedges, and the loss of the
vices Of three others, who had scarcely strength 10
walk behind, greatly increased the labor Of the few
who were able 10 work.
"The examination of the coast was pursued until
the 9th Of June, when, having consumed more than
half our provisions, and the strength Of the party
being much reduced, was reluctantly compelled
to abandon further operations, IL was, moreover
necessary TO give the men day Of rest. But that
the time might not be wholly lost proceeded with
Sergeant Hurditch and William Thompson, a sea- !
man of greater endurance, 20 the extreme south