The Caledonian. [volume] (St. Johnsbury, Vt.) 1837-1867, 1848-01-15
Miscellaneous.
THE HOL Y L A N ID 4.
BY MISS HARRIET MARTINEAU.
The Jordan and Dead Sea.
No. vi. ..
No. vi.


This day, april 6th,) we were TO visit the
Jordan and the Dead Sea. In the early morn
inc. about five o'clock, ascendedu steep
mound near our encampment, and saw a
view as different from that ofthe preceding
dayas change oflights could make it, The |
sun had not risen; but there was n hint of it's .
approaching in gush of pale light behind |
the Moab Mountains. The strip of woodland
in the middle Of the plain looked black in .
contrast with the Frightening yellow precipi-
ces of Quarantania on the west. Souihwards, |
the Dead Sea stretched into the land, grey |
and clear. Below me, our tents and horses,
and the moving figures of the Arabs, eliven- !
ed the shadowy banks ofthe stream.
We were off soon after six, and were to
each the banks ofthe Jordan in about two
and half hours. Our way lay through the
same sort of forest land as we had encamped
in. 1t was very wild; and almost the only
tokens rehabilitation that we met with, were
about RihhaIl--by some supposed to be the
exact site of the ancient Jericho. This is
now as miserable village as any in Paes-
tine; and its inhabitants are as low in charac-
ter as in wealth. No stranger thinks of 60
ing near it who is not well armed and guar
ded Yet there is no need to resort to any
means but honest and very moderate industry
to obtain comfortable subsistence here--if
only honesty We're encouraged, and industry
protected by good social state. The fine
fig trees that are scattered around, and the a.
bundant promise of the few crops that are
sown, show that the soil and climate are not
to blame. And this place there is square
tower, conspicuous from atIr above The trees,
which some suppose to be the sole remnant
Of the great city; but it can hardly be ancient
enough TO have belonged to the old Jericho.
On hillock in the midst of the brushwood
we saw few birds ofsuch size that one of
the party in moment offorgetfulness, cried
out, "Ostriches!" There are no ostriches in
this couutry;but these cranes looked very like
them, while on their feet. One by one they
rose, stretching out their long legs behind
fhem-certainly the largest birds ever saw
fy-or probably shall ever sec.
Though we had been told, and had read,
that the river could not be seen till the travel
er reached its very banks, we could not help
looking for It, Three broad terraces have to
be travere ii; and then it is sunk in deep
bed, where il rushes hidden among the wood
land. IN depth, the water varies much at diff
ferent seasons; though less now than former
~ The Scriptures speak so much Of the o.
veriow of Jordan, and the lion coming up
at the swelling of Jordan, that it is supposed
that formerly the river was subject to inunda-
lions which may have formed the three ter
races above mentioned, and caused the eX-
traordinary fertility of the plain in old fines;
aud that the wild beasts which then harbor-
ed in the brakes, came up to terrify the dwell
ers in the fields. However this may have
heen it is not so now. The channel is no
doubt deepened; and the river now, in the
fullest season, only brims over its banks into
the brakes, so as TO stand among the canes,
and never reach the terraces.
Though we were all on the lookout, and
though we reached the river at the spot
which is cleared for the approach ofthe Eas-
tern pi!gr ms we could not see the water till
we could almost touch it. The first notice to
me of where it was, was from some of the
party dismouutug on the Pilgrims beach
When ] came up-O. how beautiful it was
how much more beautiful than all pictures
and all re scriptions had led me to expect
The only drawback was, that the stream was
turbid; not only whitish, from u sulphurioiIs
admiXture, but muddy. But il swept nobIy
along, with strong and rapid current, and
many cddes, gushing thr0ugh the thick
wood land, and flowing in among the tall
reeds, now shifting the white rocks ofthe OPP
nosite shore, and now winding away out OF
sight behind the poplars and acacias and tall
reeds which crowd lis banks. 1t is NOT a
broad river; hut it is full ofmajesty from its
force and loveliness. The vigorous, upsprng-
ing character of the wood along its margin
struck me much; and we saw it now in its
vivid spring green. .
The pilgrims rush into the sacred river in
such numbers, and with so littl precaution
as TO the strength ofthe current, that no year
passes without some loss of life: and usually
several perish. This year only one was
drowned. Whatever superstition there might
nave been among our company,it was not of
tAis Wild sort; and we bathed in safety. The
ladies went north; the gentlemen south.
maze way through the thicket with difficult
~ I'LL found little cove, which the current
did not enter, and over which hung a svca-
more, whose lower branches were washed
by the ripple which the current sent in as it
passed. On these branches the bather mirht
stand or sit without touching the mud which
lay soft and deep below. The limestone
precipice and wooded promontory opposite
made the river particularly beautiful here:
and sorry was to leave it at last.
1t is useless to attempt to make out where
the baptism of Jesus took place, or where his
disciples and John administered the rite.
And on the spot one has no pressing wish
10 know The whole ofthis river is SO sa-
cred and so sweet that it is enough to have
Sallted it in any part of its course.
one thing more we did; we remembered
lrlenus lar away, and carried away some wa
yer Tor 'hem, having provided tin cases for
.ne purpose. The Queens children are bap-
siseu IN Jordan water; and brought away a
cIse'ui Tor the baptism ofthe child off friend
VINO yves further away from the Jordan than
our queen does. This business done, we
u,G summoned to horse, and rode away
suothward to the Dead Sea.
The belt of woodland soon turned awav
eaStWartts, and we found ourselves exposed
" extreme heat, on desolaie plain crusted
WIN salt and cracked with drought. There
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