Ypsilanti sentinel. [volume] (Ypsilanti, Washtenaw Co., Mich.) 1843-1900, 1847-06-09
From the Washington Union.
THE ROAD FROM VERA CRUZ
TO MEXICO.
NO. 2.
Mr.. GREEsHow's NorEs, No. II.

L
In the preceding number described the
road from Vera Cruz to Jalapa. the length o.
which, according to my estimate, is 6S miles
1t passes over an uneven surface, being, in fact
a series of ascents and descents from the vicin-
ity of Vera Cruz to Plan del Rio. At the lat
ter place begins the first grand ascent from the
low hot country of the coast-the Terra Cal
iente-to the table land of the cooler regions
the TERRA Templates; and Cerro Gordo, or
the line of separation between the two climates
was wisely chosen by the Mexicans for theil
stand against our forces, which would, no doubt
rapidly melt away if confined much longer to
| the pestferous wastes below. Jalapa is at the
other extremity of the first line of heights, a.
bout four thousand feet above the ocean level
and there begins the second ascent to the great
central plateau of Mexico, among the noun
tains of the Sierra .Nddre, or principal chain
dividing the waters which flow into the Allan
tic from those entering the Pacific.
The view OF these mountains, obtained on the
heights near Jalapa, is one of the grandest
have e,e seen, though by no means so pictur-
esque as many which | recollect in Switzer-
land, where the actual as well as the visible
mass Of the obiec is inferior. The defect in
the Mexican picture is occasioned by the ex-
treme blackness of the mountains, and by the
too great regularity of their outline, except at
the southern end, where the volcano of Orizaba
rears it's snowy cone aloft from the other parts
| of the chain to the height of nearly seventeen
Thousand feet above the level of the sea. In
the northern part of this division of the Sierra
Madre is the great mountain of Perote, called
| Ell Cofre by the Spaniards, from Its fancied
resemblance to a chest, though hogs's back
might be cited with more proprety, in order to
[convey an idea of its form; and at its northern
end is the gap or pass, affording, SO for as yet
known, the only means of communication by
wheel carriages between the coast of the Mex
lean Gulf and the high tabe-land of the interi-
or, south and east of that between Monterey
and Saltillo. 1t seems very probable that many
such passes, equally practicable, might be found
in the space of Thousand miles separating the
two here mentioned; but Mexicans are not the
people to look for them.
On approaching Jalapa before sunrise OBJ
tanned a seat on the outside of the coach in
order to enjoy the prospect, which was wholly
different from any seen on the preceding day.
The lower country is, in fact, almost entirely
uncultivated scarcely an acre of ground on the
way exhibits the marks of human labor: neither
grains, nor fruits, nor any other vegetables ap-
pear to be produced; and, as the people are not
engaged in manufactures of any kind, it is diff
member that on reaching the National Bridge,
at noon of hot day, had proposed to enjoy
the luxury of pineapple fresh plucked from
the plant: but there was no such thing in the
village or its vicinity, nor could procure there,
or any where else between Vera Cruz and ia
lapa. an orange or lemon, or any other fruit
whatever. In the vicinity of the latter place,
on the contrary, signs of industry and civiliza-
ton were exhibited on all sides; the houses had
walls, generally made of adobes, or unburnt
bricks, plaste-ed and whitewashed, and covered
with tiles. We drove on road as well paved
as the streets of many of our cities, bordered
by hedges of alOes, prickly-pears, and other
tropi .al plants: and around were fields of Indi-
an corn, beans, sugar-canes, and coffee trees,
and gardens filled with bananas, pine apples,
fig-trees, and grape-vines all loaded with fruits.
The gloomy mass of the Cofre de Perote rose
high in font: and on it, as background to the
picture, Jalapa at length appeared, relieved with
its low white houses and tall church towers,
embosomed in rich foliage on the declivity of
the small mountain of Macultepec. The beau
ty of the scene increased as we drew nearer,
and on entering the town the pleasurable feel
lngs excited were not dispelled bv any of those
signs of filth and misery which had so often
in Italy found enclosed in the most charming
environs. The streets are clean; the houses,
seldom exceeding one story in height, are neat
ly though plainly built, with balconies, mostly
of wood, to the windows; and, except in one or
two of the principal streets in which the shops
are situated, they are generally surrounded by
gardens. Few of the buildings have any pre-
tensions to grandeur, the most remarkable be-
ing the Pdrroquia, or parish church, on the
market place, and the convent of the Francis
cans in its vicinity, one of the oldest religious
establishments subsisting IN Mexico. OF the
other houses, one of the best was the hotel cal
led the .Mesom de las DHigencias. at which our
carriage stopped, opposite to the convent; and
there remained two DAYS, in order to recruit
my strength, which had been completely ex-
hausted by the fatigues of the preceding thirty
six hours, added to thirty day of constant sick
ness on board of the Vandalia.
carried letter of introduction to General
Castro, the commandments of the depart
ment of Vera Cruz, who had his headquarters
at JaIapa; and this l delivered as soon as pro-
priety would allow. He was about fifty years
old, with stout, well-knit person and a good,
determined face, not particularly remarkable,
however, in any way. He received me very
politely. after the Mexican fashion, insisting.
in Pickwickian sense, of course-that his
house and all its contents were at my entire dis
position: and then proceeded to offer me, in sin
certify, every facility which could desire while
remained within the limits of his authority.
We talked some time on different matters, dur
ing which he was evidently attempting to find
out the object of my journey; no great skill was,
however, necessary to eiude his inquiries; and,
as afterwards learned, the report which he
sent by the diligence to Mexico was as far from
exact as it could well be. saw him, several
times during that and my subsequent visit to
Jalapa, and was much pleased, in the end, with
his good humor and frankness; so that could
not help lamenting, as plainly told him on
parting. that it should have been his lot to order
the execution of so many of our fellow citizens,
who had landed with Mexia in his foolish at
tempt on Tampico, short time previous.
| had letter also to his excelency Don Ju-
an Barsena, the lieutenant governor of the de-
partment, whom found to be the keeper OF a
very small shop in the lower part of the town.