The daily national Whig. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1847-1849, 1847-10-12


something singular and outre in her dress--a hat
with all the colors OF the rainbow, or of a new CO.
Tor never imagined before-n gown trimmed that
she cannot lean back upon tia cloak so cut that
she cannot walk upright In i-a new kind of quill
Ing which scratches her and catches everybody else
"a new pattern, which blinds the eye to look at--a
berthe strung Of beads from Nova Zembla-a boa
woven of feathers from New Zealand-and it, fur
ther, she wears them all with piteous detected look
as II she were martyr to the service, you may be
sure that this is a shy timid, weak SOUL who while
she Is Attracting all eyes TO her costume, has no
other thought than how she may best escape obser-
walton. The truth is, the very fear that would keep
others back is the spell to draw her on She is so
aaid of being out of the pale of the Mode that she
punges into the most singular extreme to be per-
fectly made sure she is in It, AT the same time she
looks upon the Fashion as sort Of awful power
whom 1t is impossible TO serve with any comfort or
convenience to ones self and is accordingly never
satisfied that she is perfectly fashionable unless she
feels herself perfectly miserable too This is prize
to the miliners whose insight into human nature,
through the garb 1t wears is all for our argument,
and who, seeing Immediately that she has neither
taste nor Judgment of her own, always persuade
her to lead some fororn hope called the very last
fashion, but which no one else would have courage
TO be first in.
Again, If after this unfortunate has passed her
way you meet another equally extravagant in her
style, only with this difference, that she has opinions
OF her own, and those of most pronounce kind IF
she wear the largest pattern and the gaudes colors
upon the most ordinary material-or the highest
lounces upon the richest iii, being poor, she has
quantity of sham lace, mock fur, false jewclry-
showing that her object is not economy but display
or II, being rich she mixes up the best together
pearls on head, canoes neck, and diamonds on
stomacher --if she disposes her hair in nordinate
long curls, extraordinarily curious braids land II
beneath skirt which incredible circumfe-
renee Of ground, or beneath body which hardly
covers any space at all, you catch glimpses Of sub
textures neither neat, clean, ineyou may guess
that this is very vain and vulgar zoon, and prob
ably bold one too.
Thirdly, if another confronts you, more decided
still in her outward language than either of the fore
going-who seems to have no rule of fashion except
that of departing from the prevailing one-who has
her gowns always short when other peoples are long,
or rice rersa-goes about holding them up above the
highest waer-mark in fine weather, and is sure to
be always drabbled in wet-has the vanity sport
black velvet clasped across her foreheadhe sluttery
TO leave her gloves unbuttoned-or the audacity to
brave dingy black dull green next her skn-wears
her hair in crop, being forty years of age, no
cap, being bald or grey-puts OH turban to drink
tea with two people, or an innocent white frock for
a party of two hundred-she is what is called wo-
man Of strong mind, in other words, ofvery coarse
manners-probably radical, certainly dissenter,
very likely somewhat of sceptic.
But now female of a very different character
crosses our path-we follow It with some uncertain
| ty. A powerful straw bonnet, or u massive black
velvet one. A knitted shawl of coarse materials OF
what was once black scarf, with deep frl added
/ 10 IL A IS IL
type, which hangs emptily, and slopes In towards
the feet-a stiff squirrel boa and cotton gloves This
figure is puzzlng. II is not maid servant for the
clothes expensive, less tasty and better put
| on. 1t is not an old woman, for the step, though
| demure, is elastic. 1t is not vulgar woman for
though indescribably dowdy, she is scrupuously
neat. 1t is not otherwise than lady, though there
is not the slightest wish evident of being thought
one. We look in her face this once, though We
shall require to do again and there, at tht
very bottom Of that hat, discover the cold milo
eye and hcadachy complexion, indicative of the lad,
of Puritan or Evangelical principles. What her in
: doors morning garb is we do not know but shoult
think abe Inns none, for she never stays atShome
nor her evening dress, for we are not admitted Il
those circles, but understand that it consists in
rather snowy but truly hideous silk dress very
much cut and carved about the body and with
the same tendency to contract towards the
base-wih the some squirrel boa on her
shoulders, and her hair very i'll got up behind
Still there some recommendations to this dress
which we cannot pass over 1t may make woman
look gloomy and unattractive; but never what is
much worse, pleased and vulgar. There is also q
consoling consideration associated with II in the
mind You feel that there has been no rating OF
scoding of the dress-maker but that when the dress
was put into her hands, the order was simply given
make it as you wl-don't ask me-if 1t be but I'M
| I OH ha Gad -
in one sense will that garb ever be in which charity
attireth herself We could wish certainly that this
class of excellent ladies' would either dissent entirely
from the established mode else conform with bet
ter grace. Still, be 1t what it may, now that we
know TO whom the costume belongs we shall ever
look upon it with respect. IL.
| Far different from all we have hitherto reviewed
| are the dress doctrines of her who next follows
though not easily exemplifed in details as in gem
| erals. The first study seems to be the becoming
her second the good-the third the fashionable
which, if be both good and becoming, always is or
may be. You see this lady turning cold eye to the
assurances Of shopmen, and the recommendations OF
milliners. She cares not how original pattern may
be- If it be ugly, or how recenta shape it be awkward
Whatever laws fashion Dictates she follows one OF her
own, and is never behind il. She wears very beau
tful things which people generally suppose to be
fetched from Paris, at least made by French mil
| liner, but which often not bought at the
nearest town, and made up by her maid Not that
her costume Is always either rich the con-
rury she wears many cheap dress, but 1t is always
pretty, and many old one, but it is always good
She deals in no gaudy confusion of coours-nor
does she affect studied sobricy; but she either
| ireshes you with spirited contrast or compo-
ses you with judcious harmony. Not scrap
Of tinsel trumpery appears upon her She puts no
faith in velvet bands, gilt buttons twisted cor
dlngs. She isquite aware, however, that the garnis
is important the dress; all her inner borders and
headings delicate and fresh, and should any thing
peep out which is not intended to be seem 1t is quite
as much so that which is. After ALL there is nc
great art either in her fashions her materials The
secret simply consists in her knowing the three grand
unities Of dress-hcr own station, her own age and
| her own points, And no woman dress well
who does not. After this need not say, that who
ever is attracted by the costume will not be dsap.
pointed in the wearer. She may not be handsome
nor accomplished, but we will for her being
even tempered, well informed, thoroughly sensible