The Caledonian. [volume] (St. Johnsbury, Vt.) 1837-1867, 1847-10-09
THE CITY OF MEXICO.


scrption of the City of Mexico, is from
Branra Meyers book on "McXico as it was
and as it is.
1t was the middle of November, but there
was May mildness in the atmosphere. HE
sky was ofthat deep ultra-marinc blue pecu-
liar TO elevated regions. As J. ranged my
eye down the street from my balcony, the
town was alive with II teeming population;
the windows ofthe houses stood open; fair
women slroled homeward from mass old
monks shufiled along in their cowled robes;
the butcher urged along his ass with its per-
ipuletic stall hung around with various
meats; freshly leayed flowers and trees in
The court-yards. of which ] caught 9llmpSes
through the open portals; and in tic bnIcnn-
les louuged the early riseis, enjoying u scgar
after their cup Of chocolate. II was lively
aud beautiful scene, worthy of tie pencil Of
that maser-p painter ofcitics, CamaIett who
would have delighted in the remarkable
transparency and purity OF the atmosphere,
through which the distant hills, some twenty
miles off, seemed but a barrier III the end Of
the street.
The plan of the city of Mexico is precisely
that ola checker board, with n great variety
of squares. Straight streets cross each 9th
rat right angles, and ut regular intervals.
The houses are painted with gay CoIors-
light blue, fnwn, and green, interspersed with
pure white, tha0pemains long unstaincd III
the dry atmospheric.
The view Of all these from the elevated
tower of the cathedral Ito which ] soon re-
poired utier my arrival in tie cHpital) pre-
senls n mass of domes, steeples, and fat
rooted dwellings, frequently covered Ike
hanging gardens, with flowers, and foliage
Beyond the gates (Which you would scarcely
think boundeda population of 2UO,OCO) tho
" 81
mountains, traversed in some places by long
lines of agueducts sweeping to the city from
the hills, and in others with lakes, cultivation,
aud beautiful groves, until the distant view IL
closed by the volcanoes, whose SHOWS rest
against the blue sky, uncovered al this sea-
son by single cloud.
Below is the great square OF the Pia2a--a
large paved area-irontcd on the north 10y
the cathedral, on the cast by the National
Palace (lhe residence ofthe Prcsident to the
south Of which, again, is the museum, and "a
stone Cdifice recently built in tasteful style
/ for II markct.-Ihe cornerstone OF tins was
! laid after arrived in Mexico, and before
! left the building was nearly completed. Un
til that time, the fruits, flowers, aud Vcgeta-
hles, and most of the uecessaries of the table,
had been sold on that spot in shambies, and
! booths built oi bamboos and reeds, sheltered
from the rain and sun by matched roofs. la
the southwestern corner of the square,
| the Parian, an uasightly building (crec-
ted, | believe, since the rcvolution) greatly
mars the effect of the Plaza. 1t is Il useful
establishment, however, as it affords large
revenue 10 the municipality, and is the great
bazaar where every article requisite for the
dress Of McNicans, male or tclnale, may lie
purchased ut reasonable prices. On the
pavement which rams round, SIT numbers OF
CoachmCn, whose stands are in the neighbour
lDnI nnI rpluV
made shoes.
Not the lenst curious, however, among the
multitude with which tho sidewalks are
generally throngcd are about a dozen 'cvau-
geiists,' or letter writers, whose post is al
ways OH the curbsonc ofthc eastern front Of
the Parian A huge Jug of ink is placed be-
side them, a board rests across their knees
ii pile of different colored paper (most Of
which is either cut Valentine fl shior, or
flourished over and adorned with pen-and
ink ornaments) is placed on it, and on stool
before him sits some disccnsolate looking
damsel or henrt-hrokGn lover, pouriug ont ii
passion which the scribe puts in becoming
phraSeology. 1t is an important trade, and
more money is made in Mexico by this proxy
making love than perhaps any where else
You can have a 'dcciaration' for one rial; Il
scoldiug letter for medic; and an mp
braidiug epistIe, full of daggers, jealousy,
love, and tenderness Geavng the unfortunate
recipient in Il very distracted state of mlnd)
done upon azure paper, hesprlnked WITH
hearts and doves for the ridiculous price OF
25 cents!
The cathedral occupies a space Of 500 fec,
by 420 front. The main altar is no: erected
against the wall, hut near the centre OF the
cdiice, beneath the dome. From this, cN-
tending around the choir probably two hun
trcd feet, there is n rail between four and
five feet high, and of proportional thickness,
composed of gold, silver and small alloy of
brass. This is surmountcd with silver stat
utes for candles. In front of the altar is tho
choir, i;selfa church, built Of dark woods of
the rarest antique carving. The altar placed
upon marble platform, e|ovating 1t from
the floor of the building, and covered with
nold and silver ornaments CnndIesticils and
crosses is of wrought and polished silver;
and the whole is surmounted by small iGm-
| pie, in which rests the figure of the Virgin
of Remedies, who enjoys The exclusive rgI!t
of three petticoats-one embroidered Wilh
emerads and the third with damonds--thc
value OF which, am credibly informed il
not less than three millions of dollars ! This
you well rrco|lcct is only one part Of one
church in Mexico, and that ore said not To
be the richest!
Passing from the cathedral door to tic
southeastern portion ofthe city, You reach
the outskirts, crossing in your way the canals
from the lake. ] have rarely seen such mis-
cradle suburbs; they are filed with novels
built with sun-dricd bricks, often worn with
the weather to the shapc of holes in the niti,i,
Willie on their cnrihcrn floors crawl, cook,
live and multiply, the wrntched looking popa
ulaion oflcperos. This word, believe, il
not pure Spanish, but is derived originally, iG
| is said front the CuStiian lcpra, or lepcr; and