The daily union. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1845-1857, 1847-05-04
Description of the road from Vera oru1 20 Mexico
BY ROBERT GREENHow.
No. 2

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my estimate, is 6s miles. II passes uneven sur
face being in fact series OF asoents and descens from
the vicinity of Vera Cruz 10 Plan del Rio At the latter
place begins the first great ascent from the low hot country
of the coas-the Terra Cdenfeto the table land of the
cooler regions the Iierrds IempdddS and Cerro Gordo
on the line OF separation between the two climates was
wisely chosen by the MeXcans for their stand against
our forces, which would no doubt, rapidly melt away
confined much longer to the pestierous wastes below
Jalapa Is at the other extremity OF this first line of heights
about four thousand feet above the ocean level and
there begins the second ascent the great central pa
teau of Mexico, among the mountains of the Sierra
iddre, or principal chain dividing the waters which
flow into the Atlantic from those entering the Pacific
The view of these mountains, obtained on the heights
near Jaapa, is one of the grandest have seen,
though by means picturesque MANY which
recolect in Switzerland where the actual well as the
visible of the objects is inferior The defect in the
Mexican picture is occasoned by the extreme backness
OF the mountains and by the too great regularity OF their
outline, except al the southern end where the volcano of
OrlZaba reaTs Its snowy aoit from the other parts
of the chain 10 the height of nearly seventeen thousand
feet above the level OF the sea In the northern part OF
this division OF the Sierra Madre is the great mountain
OF Peroe, called FL Cofre by the Spaniards from its fam
cied resemblance TO chest though hogs back might
be cited with more propnety IN order 10 convey idea
OF lis form and al its northern end is the gap pass,
aiiording SO lar as yet known, the only means OF
muncaon by wheel-carrages between the coas, of the
Mexican gulf and the high table land of the Interior
south and east of that between Monterey and Saldo II
very probable that many such passes equally prac
tcable might be found the space of thousand miles
separating the two here mentioned; but Mexcans are
not the people 10 look for them.
On approaching Jaapa, before sunrise obtained seat
on the outside OF the coach order TO enjoy the pros
pect, which wholly different from any seen on the
preceding day. The lower country is in fact almost
entirely ncultvated scarcely an acre of ground on the
way exhibits the marks OF human labor neither grains,
fruits any other vegetables appear TO be pro-
duced and As the people are not engaged in manufac
tories OF any kind, it is difficult imagine what they
subslst. | remember that ON reaching the National
Bridge al OF hot day, had proposed enjoy the
luxury OF pine apple fresh plucked from the plant;
but there such thing the village its vicinity;
could anywhere between
Vera Cruz and Jalapa, an orange, lemon, or any
other fruit whatever In the vicinity of the latter place.
on the contrary, signs OF industry and civilization
exhibited on all sides: the houses had walls generally
made OF ddo1eS unbunt bricks, plastered ana white
washed, and covered with tiles; drove on road
as well paved as the streets of many of cities Dor
dered by hedges OF aoes pTicky pears and other tropical
plants and around Were fields OF Indian corn, beans,
sugar-canes and cofeetrees, and gardens filled with
bananas pine-apples gtrees, and grape-vines all load
ed with fruits The gloomy OF the Cofre de Peroe
rose high in front; and on IT, back ground to the
picture Jalapa at length appeared relieved, with lis low
white houses and tall church towers embosomed in rich
foliage the declviy OF the small mountain of Macue-
pee The beauty OF scene increased drew
Iand on entering the town. the pleasurabe feelings excl
ted not dispelled by of those signs of filth and
misery which had so Often in Italy, found enclosed in
the most charming envrons. The streets cean the
houses, seldom exceeding story in height, neatly
though plainly built with balconies mostly of wood 10
the windows and, except in two OF the principal
y surrounded by gardens. Few OF the buildings have
any pretenslons TO grandeur the most remarkable being
the Pdrroquo, or Parish church, the market place,
and the convent of the Francscans in lis vicinity one
OF the oldest religious establishments subssng in Mex
OF the other houses OF the best was the hotel
called the Meson dc las DRgeneds, at which our car
manned two days, IN order to recruit my strength which
had been completely exhausted By the fatgues of the
preceding thirty six hours added TO thirty days of
slant sickness on board of the Vandaia.
carried letter OF introduction to General Antonio
Castro, the OF the department of We
IA Cruz who had his headquarters Jaapa and this
He wa
about fifty years old, with stou well knit person and
good determined face not particularly remarkable how
ever. IN any way. He received politely after
the Mexican fashion, insisting-in Pckwican sense
OF course,tha his house and all its at my
certy every facility which could desire while remain
ed within the limits OF his authority. We talked some
time on different matters, during which he evidently
attempting TO find out the object of my journey; no
great skill was however necessary to eude his maui
RES and, as afterwards learned, the report which he
sent by the diligence TO Mexico far from exact as
It could well be. saw hun several times during that
and my subsequent visit 10 Jalapa and much pleased,
in the end with his good humor and irankness; so that
could not help lanenilng, as plainly told him part
ton OF so many OF our fellow citizens, who had landed
with AeNia in his foolish attempt on Tampco a short
time previous.
had letter also 10 his excelIency Don Juan Barsena,
the lieutenant governor OF the department, whom found
to be the keeper OF very small shop the lower part OF
the town. tie was an amiabe and intelligent person,
formerly of wealth which had been all lost in the
revolution and highly respected for his honesty and pat
rotlsm well for his iiunness and good sense He
inquired particularly concerning former minister in
Mexico MIR, Poinset Chen Secretary OF War) for whom
he seemed to have the greatest regard and afterwards
found that this feeling was fully reciprocated.
The magnate OF the place, taking precedence of all gov
errors and commandments at that tune. was. however
Mr. Welsh, an English gentleman, formerly consul OF
has nation al Vera Cruz who, having accumulated a
large fortune In business merchant and married la
dy of the country had vested his funds in land and cot
ton manufactures at Jalapa In his plantation, which
was devoted chiefly TO coffee trees, he endeavorng
to combine the neaness and completeness OF an English
farm with the grandeur of Mexican hacienda and in
this he had succeeded 10 all appearance fully though
whether the returns would justify the outlay might be
questionable For his mandatory he erecting, at
vast expense, dam In the shape of wall of cyclopean
dimensions, the little stream which flows through
the town; and by these works he distributing among
the inhabitants large sums of money, which could not
fail TO his popularity long at least the supply
should be kept up He informed me that he could obtain
sufficient number of laborers, who would work well
at three reals (37a cent) per day. regularly paid and he
appeared 10 be very sanguine the success of his
plans
[Since writing the above, learn that Mr. Weshs
scheme proved aborve and that he has been entirely
med by the faurep his cotton factory, consequence
OF which he has been Obliged TO leave Jalapa.1
The only American whom found there was Mr. Sam
uel Jewett OF Vermont, who had lived in Mexico ever
since the establishment OF It's independence and had also
married native of the country. He appeared to have
been engaged in almost every kind OF business and was
then making combs and bleaching wax with what sue
cess could not learn. He, however, lived very com
fortably, and gave me dinner, of the best OF
which preserve the remembrance il wholly Mex
lcan as he had promised on inviting me; and though
Sonora Jewett acknowledged that she had been sparng
IN her etae (red pepper on my account, there was
enough lett TO scorch my throat considerably al first
lhe meat was nevertheless delicious, and the desert be-