Burlington free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1827-1865, 1846-05-22
rom the Baltimore American.
From The BntlIHUTV ATItFICuH.
GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE
CHINESE.

We have given some description of the
summer dresses, so well adapted for burn
ing climate, and which are worn till quite
late in the autumn.
But towards November, when in the square
the broad ensign of America waves in the
blast Of the North West Monsoon, there is a
universal and Simultaneous change in the
costumes. The chief officer of the province
puts on winter dress, assumes the skull
cap with its scarle, button, and all the inferi-
or millions follow his example. The ap-
pearance of the lower order is little changed,
bat in the upper the difference is apparent.
The loose gown is now drawn at the waist,
by sash with fiinged ends hanging down
behind and over this is worn large cape
of figured silk, or cloth, but usually of fnrs.
A mantle, taken from the skin of lamb
taken from its dame before birth, is very
highly priced. Now it is that the fan case,
watch, and purse, are seen TO the best ad-
vantage, and the blue cap and scarlet button
give a finish to the winter garments, which
those of the summer want for none but gov
eminent officers wear hats during the latter
season, excepting those laborers who are ex-
posed to the snow. The summer habits of
the officers we must notice for a momcnt.-
Often long gown Of blue gauzc confined at
the waist, black satin boots, and the decorat-
ca appendices before mentioned, make a
striking show their hats are then of white
braid, conical in shape, surmountcd with a
ball indicative of rank, and adorned with a
falling plume of shining scarlet hair.
During the winter their staic-robcs are
still with glttering magniiccncc ; those of
the highest mandarins are worked with bril-
liant bucs, and their shoes are ornamented
also. one of the principal figures being the
imperial dragon. On the breast and back
of some dresses is an embroidered bird and
the necklace of one hundred and eight large
court beads, of bright agate, quartz or rare
wood, always accompanies state costume.
The yellow girdle is allowed only TO me nbers
Of the Imperial family, of whom we shall
speak hereafter. The mandarin's winter cap
is utterly different from the one just now des-
cribcd it is usually of dark blue velvet,
fitting close to the head, with broad edge
turning up all around, and instead Of the hair
plume, il is furnished with one of scarlet silk.
The ball, always worn except in case Of
mourning, is red, blue, white, chrystal or
gold, acc, riding to rank, and these varieties,
with some other insignia, distinguish the nine
grades of mandarns.
The Pcacock's feather is sn honor granted
fer signal mer., and /. is wcthy of note rhat
such marks Of favor are seldom or never be
slowed unless well deserved. The privilege
Of wearing a state dress may indeed be pnr-
chased for an immense sum, but this confers
no rank or honor. The arlstocracy of tai
emit and not Of wealth, bears the sway in
China.
Judging from few specimens of splcndor
to be seen in city so remote from the Court
IS Canton. there must be deal of wealth
and mlgniiccnce at the capital and the &C
counts of old travellers, and later embassies,
speak Of state and pomp worthy of so i'm
mcnse an empire.
Never was there a country in which tailors
were kept so much in check as they are in
Cnina no one of the class ventures to orig
mate fashion, for the costumes of the ma
oli,crs, from whose decree no one dares to
dissent.
The common order of the females dress
much like the men, but the visiter vino walks
from the foreign factories towards the west
ern part Of Canton, passing through retired
streets, only occupied by the houses of
wealthy Chinese, will often see ladies walk
ing, beautifully attred in rich silks, with
ch ldren or servants in company. Their
dress conceals the person entirely; the long
gown or toga fits close around the neck, and
l.. %, ,n,nl,ninu tho hn pIs
Their heads are uncovered, and their style
of head dress is singular and usually thought
becoming. The front hair Of unmarried fe-
males is combed straight back, with the ex-
ception of small portion, hanging over the
forehead nearly TO the eyebrows, and cut
square this same custom is observed
among some remote tribes Of North Ameri-
can Indians. The rest of the hair is combed
and braided into the tail, like the men's!;
but no part of females head is shaved
When married or shortly before, the whole
hair is combed up, and false piece set on
the back of the head, fastened by clasps and
pins of gold, or other less precious material,
according TO the wealth of the fair one. A
beautiful ornament is sometimes worn by
rich women, representing bird with ex-
tended wings, which formed Of gold or silver
iagree, studded with pearls, and supported
( by light wires, trembling with the slightest
motion, seem TO hover over the head of the
lady.
What need we of the long wide panlaloon.
of the upper Chinese ladies' 10 concoa
their feet? They have none for service
and hobblo along more awkwardly than ;
child first learning to walk. Soon as the fe.
male child is bern. its feet are thrust into
shoes, and bound firmly round and round, sc
that no growth can ensue. Nature, cndcav.
oring to have its way, can only produce OK.
quisite torture as each attempt proves abor.
tive. How these females ever learn to sant
or move is strange, yet, as we before observ.
cd they may sometimes be seen in the streets
supporting their trembling steps with a staff
Models in clay of the contracted feet, painted
flesh color, and set into shoes Of the same siz,
as those actually worn, are sold in Cation a.
curiosties. The large toe fits into the pon
Of the shoe, and the others, instead of bein!
in their natural positions, are Tanned anC
driven into the side of the foot, appearin,
one directly behind the other. Ii is lust a
though the foot were cut of just AT the ankl
Joint, and the stump sharpened - a point
, This custom is exclusively Chinese, and
not followed even by the Manchou Tartar.
, who, being the last conqneregs of China ,hav
| adopted many of lis customs, and who's