The daily union. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1845-1857, 1845-10-06

pointed with shining crystals OF hbrous gypsum.
After march of eleven hours, generally leading the
norses we found little prairie bottom on the river
where we bivouacked, robbing halfdozen buffa-
oes Of their supper; and truly they might almost
nave finished what was left for our poor horses.
July Is, we turned our backs on the beautiful La
rame river, and took our course toward the south,
along the foosofthe Black hills We found it l6O miles
by circutous but smooth route the South fork Of
he Platte. This was trackless wilderness, where
he few small streams (there unwaered intervals
IF 70 mies) did not present suf6ciency of grass
or the horses. This particular part of our route,
where promised myself much, was the least inter-
sting. About the Chugwater alone-where the
'tream has cut deep and abrupt valley through the
prevailing formation Of soft conglomerate rock
ioes this lofty table-land of the Piedmont impress
'ense Of its vast elevation and extent. On that
strangely named stream we found very interesting
band of Cheyennes. Their patriarch, with the garru
y Of age, and the shadow Of an authority which had
descended to the active warriors, and sages Of
he first and second generations, addressed his two
hundred descendants and connexions, and enforced
he excellent advice given them by the Colonel and,
with still greater emphasis, acknowledged liberal
largess.
Approaching the South fork, we passed under
Longs peak towering above long range, all tipped
with snow, and caught view of Pixies peak, $50
miles to the southeast, and said to be more lofty.
We crossed near its mouth beautiful river, four
feet deep, called Cache ala poudre. Il propose for
il the name .qrapaho.)
We assembled theSouth fork about 40 miles. II is
here most rapid and clear stream, runningust at the
foot of the Black hills. Here barrenness outdd. it.
self, and was illustrated by many ruins Of the
traders sun-dried brick forts; they only inspired
us with wonder how man could have attempted TO
live here, where security has tempted but very
few animals to penetrate its solitudes. Leaving the
South fork, we directed our course southeast TO
d tributary Cherry creek. This Gas usual here)
aenri ~ uyaa aa drVy uuh IN md an
become under hot sun. We assembled it two days,
towards the great mountain dividing the country be-
tween the Platte and the Arkansas. At its head we
found mostlovely valley. Here first we found green
grass on the hls-frsi we found the glorious green
whose leaves the breeze from the pure SHOWS in
sight whispered Eolan music. Under these groves
were smooth graceful grass slopes, adorned with
roses and picturesque rocks; in the midst was
crystal streamlet, purlng from its near fountains;
in view were the snow-clad mountains, which were
a type of seclusion from the world; there, no man
or beast had made mark, and the only living voice
was the murmuring Of doves. How startling to
the presiding nymphs the apparition of long pro-
cession of mounted warriors!-how dissonant the
clamor Of rude words and the clang ofarms!
On the highlands we rode through the only forest
Of the two thousand miles-less than a mile of pine
woods. On the southern slopes we found grass,
and soil manifesty superior to that of any district
on the waters Of the Platte. Two hard days ride
brought us to the Arkansas, about sixty miles above
Bent's fort, very strong and miLtary-lookng
where we were most Hospitality
received. Here we took our last look at Pixies
peak, in view Of which we had travelled very rapid
ly for nine days As at the Wind-rver mountains,
so, when near this range, and that Of Longs peak,
we witness, day after day, almost incessant thun-
deEstorms. pixies peak" is mass Of naked
granite, which has the appearance of peak only
when seen from the east or southeast Il was bare
Of in nm innp, oh ,,b;
to bisect 1t on the north, far down from its apex;
when nearest, however, (about ten miles, we saw il
snow all over the top. Near different parts Of the
base of this mountain arise three great rivers-the
Arkansas the Platte, (or Nebraska, it's south fork
and the Colorado, Cor Grand river, branch.)
From the point where we struck the Arkansas, its
course is to the east for $50 miles; there are no
trees off the islands below the Crossing" and the
country is sterile to Walnut creek (wherc the buff
falo-grass ends, and the buffalo too.) From this
stream (ncar which the road leaves the Arkansas,
about 23O miles to the Missouri, there is fine soil
and frequent streams, generally well fringed with
groves.
Returning, we missed meeting Captain Fremont
near Bent's fort. For some purpose, he had made
a detour from the river.
Unluckily meeting with no large bodies of the
wild, remote tribes Of Indians, we saw small parties
OF several that are very interesting. We found,
above Laramie, woman and two fine children, Of
eight or ten years, who were perhaps lost and GER
tainly in starving condition, having nothing left
but the remains Of a dog, which they had at first
packed, and now were eating nearly raw She was
an Arapaho and, as such, was spared from the mas
sacre, by the Sioux, Of her husband and party of
several years TO Kindred irlbe % Their
native mountains. She was sent to depot we es-
tablished near Fort Laramie and afterward accom-
panied south, until we fell in with party of her
nation, to which she returned. Singularly enough,
one OF this party, when child, was discovered by
Mr. Fitzpatrick, lost in desert, and at the point Of
death, and was saved and brought up by that wor-
Thy gentleman. He was named Friday, and taught
to speak English.
Near Benis fort, we met a large party Of the
famous Apache lndians-the terror Of the Mexi-
cans-who have overrun and half ruined the prov
ince OF New Mexico. Its government, in despair,
once employed against them small mercenary
force OF Americans, and Delaware and Shawnee In
dians-fearless adventures from these small tribes
Who are our near neighbors at Fort Leavenworth
They were large, fne-looking men, and, imagine,
could be distinguished by their personal appearance
from nearly all our trbes-their physiognomy more
resembling the white race. They said they were
war party against the Pawnecs. These last steal
horses from all the world. All the tribes conse-
quenty treat them enemies. But they seem to
meet their losses with stocal indifference, but are
forced TO keep guards on all the commanding points
near their towns. We met large party Of them
loaded with buffalo flesh TO their villages
on the Platte.
Of the Cumanches--those true Arabs-we saw
none; and never have been able to meet them-ex-
cept, in truth, in hostile way; which was rather
distant, though very interesting view.
These Indians depend upon the buffalo for food,
raiment, and dwellings, In their rapid decay, what
is to become of them1 We marched above three
weeks--from go miles above Laramie to a point MS
far below Bent's fort-wiihout seeing, from the
column, but three buffalo, on one occasion. They
themselves use mutitudes--a lodge, generally re-
newcd every year, consisting Of about twenty skins
Of cocs But the Indian trade is the great cause Of
their destruction. This may, in measure, correct
Itself, by failure Of receipts unless the robes rise
in value in degree somewhat corresponding to
their rarity--which, l should Judge, was not the
case with the beaver fur, if was told the truth at
Fort Laramie; they said that, the beaver becoming
too scarce 70 repay the labor they were not trapped
Tor number Of years, and that now they were
again abundant. The command subsisted about
six weeks upon buffalo; but am confident saw
not a nth so many as did sixtcen years ago.
From near Laramie, TO the Pass, we found our
selves among species Of game unknown to us--a
bird called, varously, heathcock, blackjack, and