The daily union. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1845-1857, 1845-08-30

very inferior breed. Tho other portion Oh INC eu-
igraton had preferred to complete their journey by
land along the banks of the Columbia, taking their
stock and wagons with them"
From this place he continued his route down the
Columbia which he describes with his usual sgi-
lance Of observation, and his usually graphic style
In speaking Of the Indians, he says
SIN comparison with the Indians of the Rocky
mountains and the great eastern plain these are dis
agreeably dirty in their habits. Their huts were
crowded with halfnaked women and children, and
the atmosphere within anything but pleasant TO per-
sons who had lust been riding in the fresh morning
air. We were somewhat amused with the scanty
dress of one woman, who, in common with the
others, rushed out Of the huts our arrival, and
who, in default OF other covering, used child for
a 6g-leaf."
On the 4th Of November, he arrived at that re-
markable place in the river called the "Dalles Of the
Columbian He continued his course further down
the river, when he adds:
Being now upon the ground explored by the
South Sea expedition under Captain Wilkes, and
having accomplished the object of uniting my sur
vey with his, and thus presenting cQnnectrd ex-
poration from the Mississippi to the Pacific; and
the winter being at hand deemed il necessary to
econoihise time by voyagng in the night as is Gus
tonnary here, to avoid the high winds, which rise
with the morning, and decline with the day.
''Accordingy, after an hours hall, we again en-
barkcd, and resumed dur pleasant voyage down the
river. The wind rose to gale after several hours
But the moon was very bright, aud the wind was
fair, and the glanced rapidly down the stream,
the waves breaking into foam alongside; and our
night voyage, as the wind bore us rapidly along be-
tween the dark mountains, was wild and interest
ing. About midnight we put to the shore, on a
rocky bench, behind which was dark-looking pine
forest. We built up large fires among the rocks,
which were in large muses. round about; and, ar
ranging our blankets in the most sheltered places
vyer nuld find m saed m deliuhtft,l mini
safer an early breakfast, at daylight we resumed
our Journey the weather being clear and beautiful,
and the river smooth and still. On either side, the
mountains are all pne-timbered, rocky, and high.
We were now approaching one Of the marked fea-
lures of the lower Columbia, where the river forms
great cascade, with series of rapids, in breaking
through the range Of mountains to which the lofty
peaks of Mount Hood and ST. Hclens belong, and
which rise as great pillars Of snow either side of
the passage. The main branch of the Sacra-
mento river, and the Klamath, issue in cascades
from this range and the Columbia, breaking
through it in a succession of cascades, gives the
idea Of cascades to the whole range; and hence the
name of the Cascade Range, which it bears, and dis
tinguishes it from the Coast Range lower down. In
making short turn to the south, the river forms
the cascades in breaking over point Of agglome-
rated masses of rock, leaving handsome bay to
the right, with several rocky pine-covered islands,
and the mountains sweep at distance around
cove where several small streams enter the bay. In
less than an hour we halted the left bank, about
five minutes walk above the cascades, where there
were several Indian huts and where our guides sig
nfed il was customary TO hire Indians to assist in
making the portage. When travelling with a boat
light as canoe, which may easily be carried on
the shoulders of the Indians, this is much the bet
ter side of the river for the portage, as the ground
here is very good and level, being handsome bot
tom, which remarked was covered Gas noic al
,cays The along The ricer) with growth Of green
and hi ataq IOnu hnfo yayp
could come TO an understanding with the Indians;
but at length, when they at first received the price
Of their assistance in goods, they went vigorously TO
work; and in shorter time than had been occupied
in making our arrangements, the canoe, instruments
and baggage were carried through Ia distance of
about half d me) to the bank below the main cas-
cadc, where we again embarked, the water being
white with foam among ugly rocks, and boiling
into thousand whirlpools. The boat passed with
great rapidity crossing and recrossng in the eddes
of the current. After passing through about two
miles OF broken water, we ran some Withholding
rapids, which are called the Lower Rapids, being
the last on the river, which below is tranquil and
smooth--a broad, magnificent stream On low
broad point the right bank of the river, at the
lower end Of these rapids, were pitched many tents
Of the cmigranis, who were waiting here for their
friends from above, or for boats and provisions
which were expected from Vancouver. In our pas
sage down the rapids, had noticed their camps
along the shore, transporting their goods across
the portage. This portage makes head of naviga-
ton ascending the river. II is about two miles in
length; and above, to the Dallcs, is forty-fve miles
of smooth and good navigation"
Having reached Fort Vancouver and been enter
tanned and retled there, he prepared for his return
'sIn the space of two days, our preparations had
been completed, and we were ready to set out on
our return. 1t would have been very gratifying to
have gone down 10 the Pacific, and, solely in the
interest and in the love of geography, TO have
the ocean on the western well as on the eastern
side Of the continent, so as to give satisfactory
completeness TO the geographical picture which had
been formed in our minds; but the rainy season had
now regularly set in, and the air was filed with fogs
and rain, which left beauty in any scenery, and
INSTRUCTED observations. The object of my nstruc-
tons had been entirely fulfilled in having connected
our reconnaissance with the surveys Of Captain
Wilkes; and although it would have been agree
able and satisfactory to terminate here also our
ruder astronomical observations, not for such
reason, justified TO make delay in waiting for
favorable weather"
We accordingly hereafter find him on his return,
and on the 18th he was again at the "Dallcs."
"The camp was now occupied in making the
necessary preparations for our homeward journey,
which, though homeward, contemplated new
route and great circuit TO the south and southeast
and the exploration Of the Great Basin between the
Rocky mountains and the Sierra Nevada Three
by maps, as being on this route the character or
existence of which wished to ascertain, ard which
assumed landmarks, or leading points, on
the projected line of return. The first of these
points was the Tlamath lake, on the table land be.
tween the head Of Fall river, which comes to the
Columbia, and the Sacramento, which goes to the
bay of San Francisco; and from which lake river
of the same name makes its way westwardly direct
to the ocean. This lake and river are often called
Kianet, but have chosen to write its name accord
ing to the Indian pronunciation. The position of
this lake, on the line of inland communication be-
tween Oregon and California; its proximity to the
demarcaiion boundary of latitude 400 its imputed
double character of lake, or meadow, according to
the season of the year, and the hostile and warfke
character attributed to the Indians about it,-all
made it desirable object to visit and examine.
From this lake cur course was intended TO be about
southeast to reported lake called Mary's, at some
days journey in the Great Basin; and thence, still
on southeast, to the reputed Buenapeniura river,
which has had place in 80 many maps, as 10 coun-
tenancc the belief of the existence of great river
flowing from the Rocky mountains to the bay OF