New-York daily tribune. [volume] (New-York [N.Y.]) 1842-1866, 1845-09-16
LABOR IN NEW YORK:
$ cIRccnsIANcEs, CONDITIONS AND REWARDS.
No. XV....Thc MiIliners.


Girls who undertake to learn the Millinery ba
siness must work one year for nothing and board
Themselves. Sometimes in the very first class es
adjustments they have pay bonus for the privi
lege Of so working. They arc kept steadily al
work With little opportunity FOR relaxation, from
ten to twelve hours a day. After the expiration OF
the year they are turned out 10 find employment as
they may Millinery is difficult and delicate art,
recurring not only great expertness of fingers but
considerable absolute genius to succeed IN H. Con
sequen,ly grea, proportion Of the girls who
der,ake the business find themselves not much bet
ter Millincrs than when they began-as they have
been kept regularly at sewing, and have not been
taught any thing in regard to graceiulness of outline.
harmony of colors symmetry Of form and general
adaptation of dress each peculiar style OF face, 80
absolutely necessary TO the production OF Miiner.
Principals themselves seldom understand these
things and never think of teaching them; 50 that
unle.s an apprentice has strong natural genius for
making bonnets, the chances that she will never
succeed in the business
A great part Of Millinery work however, requires
merely labor and this can be done by all who have
served their year. They have nothing 10 do except
10 follow the order given them and to work without
interruption from sunrise TO 2 O'Clock at night
These receive from 20 50 to So per week-but ii
must be aufse a good hand who commands the
latter price.
The business of making bonnet has two branches.
First il is made-then trimmed. The Trimmers get
about the same prices as the Makers, but are in
rather better request. A good Trimmer has not
much need to be out Of employment
The greater part of those engaged in the Millinery
business arc Americans although there Is fair
proportion of English and French. The diversity
of prices ut which bonnet sold In various parts
of the City is very great although the workwomen
receive nearly the same every where A hat which
costs $50 or SOS in the fashionable establishments
in Broadway can be bought in Division or Grand
street or in the Bowery for perhaps 50. The diff
ference in quality or s,yls is often not at all percep
lble. and if the ownership of the articles bad been
reversed the critical customer would have paid her
s25 for the Grand street vulgar thing and been
proud of her bargain The profits made on hats by
the fashionable establishments must be very great.
No hat can be more than days work for two per
sons-Trimmer and Maker; and yet many OF them
sell as high as s2j, $50 and $50. An establishment
which happens or manages TO secure run of fash
ionablc custom must at this business accumulate
very large profits but this is part of the bu
sncss with which those who do the work have
nothing to do we must return from our DEPRESSION.
The condition of the Mliner-g girls in respect TO
mental and physical education moral and social re-
iinemeni, and all those graces which create an al
mosphere of enchaniment around the female sex,
must as a general remark, be deplorable. In the
keen and bitter competition which pervades every
branch of business the price of labor Is kept down
TO the lowest possible polat-athough one would
suppose that the large profits of Millinery bore 50
magnificent relations 10 the cost Of labor as to avoid
the necessity of such result. But when or where
was the price of labor not cut down as low and as
fast as possible7 What branch of employers, as
class, have ever come forward to arrest the down
ward tendency Of wages
The Milliner-girls mostly 60 TO the business very
Young and with most deficient common education.
While engaged in their apprenticeship they proba
bly board with some poor relative or friend ami
have to work over hours TO pay for their homely
accommodations and mcager fare. They have OF
course no time for study and We have never heard
that their advantages for moral Improvement were
conspicuous At the end of their apprenticeship,
if they get work, they make 81 so or So per week.
Their board and washing cost at least - Of this
and their clothes must also be provided for some
hcw What ough, we TO look for under these cir
cumstances
1t is generally known that there is a class of pre-
tended Millner shops which are only used as
mask for the most disgraceiul practices. The pro
verbal no,orety Of these has served In the minds
of some persons to cast stain upon all women en-
gagged in the Millinery business. But this is cruel
and unjust As general thing the Mincrs are as
virtuous as any other class of females exposed TO
similar trials. hardships and temptations Let those
who look harshy upon the errors and vices of the
Woodworking classes Surround themselves in
imagination with poverty, want WEAKNESS, lack Of
healthful food and sleep. and ponder well on what
would be their reflections on behoding the gay and
Joyous life of vice appears outwardly and they
will learn TO pity while they do not cease to con
denim the unfortunate guilty.
rYs The Cherokee Advocate. OF the olst ut
says A gentleman residing in the Creek Nation has
informed that the Pawnee Mahas have accepted the
erablems Of peace them by the Creeks, Al the late
General Council and anxious 10 form alliance Of
friendship with them. This much desired object viii
probably be effected this Fall at Council which IS in
contemplation hold the Great Salt Plains. No time
has yet been fixed on for the meeting TO take place
~ The following toast was given at late din
ner Of the Hssy Pudding Club in Boston:
Our cornfed boys aud corn-ed girls-the n ghi ma
teria 10 form a corn-fed Grafton"
" The Genuine Gnivnnic Rings, Bands. Belts,
Sc-Dr A. H. CRISTlE, the or1gina! psienIee and nven
tor Of these celebrated articles. feels duty 10 the
public lest they be deceived purchasing fytous sna,
fafons Dr. Cristie wishes the citizens OF NewYOrk and
all other places where his discovery has been introduced
that he recognizes any Of the ar
tces sold under the name OF "Gavanic Rings Bands Sc
unless they connected with his and cold by his
thozed Agent Dr. Crisie takes The responsibility to fur
ther limitations Of his discovery
in