The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1844-08-09
Saratoga Corrcspondcnce-No III.
q. s. HOTEL, SARATOGA SPRINGS, Aug. Z.
The Phiiosoyhy of Fdshion.

On arriving In a strange country, there is nothing
more difficult than to distinguish what is arbitrary
ana temporary, arising out of those nameless and
fugitive caprces which govern taste and fashion,
from what Is refmanent in its nature, necessary in
us essence and source, springDg from and indica-
i've OF national character. The fashion of dress,
and more especially OF female COSTUME, is one of
the hrst objects that produce a strong impression
here on foreign visitor Ii one travel TO Turkey
Persia, or China, costume is seen, having nothing
In common with own. The distinctions OF
fashionable and questionable, genteel aad vulgar,
are lost sight OF. long residence would be ne.
cessary 10 enable Us 10 recognise them The
great general features Of the costume alone arr 81
our attention. But on arriving here, we meet with
our own national dress. The general features are
OF course overlooked, and our attention is epgross
ed by those more minute peculiaries which come
under the denomination Of fashion, and which, at
home, mark the distinction between differen,
classes Of society-the highest circles of the beau
n,onde-the crowd OF recenty-rich, who try to
initiate them-the commercial cIass-and the
mere bourgeoise or shop keepers. The experienced
eye will at glance recognise these several classes
IN London or Paris by the mere cut and color of
their costume. But then, as the fashions are con-
stantly changing, the peculiarities which distn-
guish these classes are also continually changed,
and an absence OF few years from either Of these
great capitals would obliterate altogether this power
On arriving in this country, the most lmme-
date and fertile source Of erroneous impressions
arises from the inevitable tendency to torn the
same judgment of class by dress, as are accus-
toned to do at home. We forget that we have
come among another population-that the same
fashions do not prevail among corresponding
classes, and above all, that society is not similarly
stratlfied If, having the same standard Of taste
and judgment which governed our impressions in
London, in 1920, we were to enter the
society of the same capital in 1910, how
entirely false would be our Impressions! We
should probably pronounce that to be gro-
tesque, ridiculous, or clownlsh, which in reality
would be the most infallible marks of the highss.
fashion, and esteem the modes of Cheapside and
Whitechapel the pink of refinement. Within a
few years even, country farmer visiting the CAPT
tai knows better things than to appear in a draw
ing room in trowsers and black neckcloth. Now,
itwould be absolutely grotesquc, not to say vulgar
to be seen in any other costume. few years
years since the dooIkeepers Of the opera were or
dered to exclude all persons wearing these OBJ
noxious articles Of dress-now, no one goes to the
opera otherwise habited!
II travellers visiting this country, and especially
those who on their return iRdite their experiences
here, to satisfy their own vanity and the Cacoeihes
so,sbendi, stimulated by the cupidity of the London
publishers, would duly reflect on these matters,
what mass of crudties and errors the reading
public and the shelves of circulating libraries
would he spared From many Of these such a
stretch of rehection and judgment could scarcely
be expected, but surely among them are some
from whom it might be looked for.
Let US see then what are the Impressions pro-
duced by this all attracting item, the ladies DRESS
The first impression is that Of tendency 10 vio-
lent exaggeraton of those fashions of London
and Paris, which have prevailed some hall year or
SO, previously. If the waist has been long in Pa
ris or in London, II is twice as long here IF the
founces have been full, frequent and deep there,
they are sure to be twice as FULL twice as frequent,
and twice as deep here. ifthe hustle nave protru-
ded the gauze skirt, and the padding have given
increased rotundity and latitude below the waist
there bustes of treble the fulness have inflated the
skirt, and padding Of treble the quantity hasround-
ed off the gown here. If among the Partisan or
British bellies, the large capacious poke of the bon
net has given place to the more moderate dmen-
sions of the cottage form, the change here is pro-
portionably extreme, and it seems as though the
ladies' had stuck on the backs Of their heads the
bonnets Of their iniants,-we tremble every mo-
ment lest, in obedience to the universal law Of
gravitation, they should drop off behind.
From observing this matter with some attention,
and as Lord Brougham says, "much bordering
upon it," am strongly inclined to think tat the
ladies here Cor, should rather say, their dress
makers,) are guided in the formation of the ia.
shions by the engravings In la Belle AssenrbGe and
the MagaSin de Modes. and perhaps also by the
paragraphs copied from some London and Paris
papers, headed, Fashions for August or Sep
tember," as the case may be- If SO they ought 10
be undeceivcd. Many of their fair country-wo-
men, who have resided IN London and Paris, and
moved in good society there, can tell them that
such drawings and descriptions are as ideal and
imaginary as the tales Of the geni, or The Arabian
Nights Entertainments Indeed, in the European
capitals there cannot be more sure sign of vul-
garty and n1auvais ton, than to dress after these
models. #h
Besides those strong peculiarites of fa.
shion in dress, the foreign visiter is even
more struck with the times and places
where dress is displayed. In the capitals of
Europe, the lady of fashion appears only at
the dinner or evening party, at the ball. invested
with what is considered full dress. Nothing can
be palmer, more unobtrusive nothing less calcula
ted to attract the notice Of the passing stranger
than her ordinary costume. II she appears in the
garden the promenade the street, or the square,
or in short in public at ALL she is marked by a
plainness and even cheapness of attire, which in
this country would, presume, be regarded rs
mean. This is not peculiar TO the woman of
fashion in Europe. 1t is SO we'll understood that
it is practiced by her distant imitators, the rich
parvenue, who learns only by hearsoy what is re-
garded CONNIE IL taut, and the city danes and de-
moiselles who swarm about the Regents Park.
The fashion here, however, Is the reverse, and it
is this, which more than anything else, makes an
immediate and strong impression on the foreigner