Litchfield enquirer., 1844-10-03
Letters from Abroad. No. XIX.

lngiy part OF PortIcl, we aighted from our car
rage at the house of Salvatore, the well-known
and far-famed guide of all pilgrims to Vesuvius.
Here we take horses to ascend the stoney and cir
cuitous path that leads up the side of the outer
cone. Having the reputation of being more sure
footed and more accomplished in mountain travel,
donkies are usually provided for ladies'; but from
the experience have had, would recommend to
all lady travellers the noble horse in preference to
the meek and patient donky, as being quicker in
their movements, more agreeable in motion, and
where accustomed to equally surefooted, or suf-
6ciently so for short excursions. had seat with
sides and back, like chair, and board wherein
to rest my feet; to add to the awkwardness of my
position was placed the right instead of the left
side as is the custom with us, and so much on the
side of the animal that in order to look forward to
see where I was going was obliged to turn nv
head so far and so constantly to one side that be-
came very st!6-necked. Our road seemed to follow
the windings of river of lava, which formed
firm and solid pavement, at the same tine that its
uneven surface afforded safe and sure foothod to
the animals that bore us-each having man to
guide them. soon found they needed no help
from the guides, but rather extended it to them;
for when we came to the parts most steep (the
drudgery usually falling to the lot of the meek and
patienD found all FIVE hanging to the tail of my
little quadruped. could not help laughing, for
had previously thought bore noslight resemblance
to hsfgures exhibited in the china shops in Broad.
way labeled ''Madame Trollop on her travels" but
with this addition to the picture could think of
no comparison. We met party who had passed
the night upon the summit to see the sun rse they
cheered us by saying we should enjoy fine sight,
as the volcano was unusually active and themselves
had been highly delighted. Another party passed
us soon after at quick pace, keeping their guides
as we'll as their horses on brisk trot. When we
started in the morning the air was 50 frosty and
chill that cloaks and coats were necessary, but in.
stead of finding the cold increase as is usual in as
cending mountains, it was more and more warm as
we neared the summit, and we were obliged to
throw of some Of our thick covering. Two thirds
Of the way up is convent, where we halted, and
without dismounting drank some of the "Lochry
more Christie tor which the vineyards of Vesuvius
are so famous. Half mile beyond this we dis.
mounted, leaving our horses (who could go no far
ther) with the guides. From this point the GENTLE
men proceeded Oh foot aided by good stout walking
sticks and guide who preceded each, with lea.
them strap over their shoulder, to which the gen.
tlemcn held fast, and in a chair fastened to poles
and borne on the shoulders of four men, We could
see those who had gone before, some near the top
and others midway, looking like ants toiling up an
ant hill Our pathway led over bed of broken
lava, the overflowings of the volcano during the
ruption of '39, three years before, The line OF
march was up the face of the cone, stepping from
one large block to another, which afforded firm
footing to say the least but as we neared the sum-
nit it became more and more steep and consequent
ly tiresome. This is however but small part of
the whole, and stopping to breathe occasionally we
at last attained the heigltof our ambition. l had
apparently an easy time Off My sympathy with
my bearers, however, was so great that to me the
journey was toilsome one, and have taken many
long walk with less fatigue and certainly less
pain; were 10 attempt the ascent again. would
prepare myself with pair of stout walking shoes
and accomplish it on foot. I am sure my bearers
were not more rejoiced or relieved than myself
when was permitted to take my stand with the
rest on the summit of the cone.
The captain Of our guides pointed out cave on
| shelving rock, asking me to take seat within.
did SO, and found the smoke and vapor issuing from
its side and roof the earth warm to the hand, and
the temperature delightful. The gentlemen that
had passed US, from being we'll mounted as we'll as
from our party having to adapt their speed to the
motions of my little donkey, determined to go his
own slow pace in spite Of the energetic abs and
ughs Of the guides, who would sometimes in their
impotence give him lift behind that almost sent
him heels over head and me with him, had far out
stripped US. We found them seated on the ground
cooking eggs in the warm sand and gazing delight
ed upon the workings Of the volcano below. We
drew near the edge of the crater whence we could
look upon the inner cone, and joining ourselves to
their party were soon participating in their delight
You will readily believe that in the vicinity where
we now stood the temperature was some twenty
degrees warmer than at Naples in the morning
We were seated the inner side Of the outer cone.
The mouth or crater is three miles in circumfer
ence, and from where we were TO the depth below
more than three hundred feet. In the center OF
this yawning gulf arose another cone 80 or 100 feet
in height-ths may be called the lip of the volca-
no. During our visit it was very lively and active.
The explosions were incessant like the firing Of ar
ti.lery, and every few seconds their noise loud
as the report Of a cannon, accompanied with an e.
ruDtion, A volume of smoke red at the base. and