Martinsburg gazette. [volume] (Martinsburg, Va. [W. Va.]) 1833-1855, 1842-09-29
f3eu & Inf Gaetehes of an ARTIST.
N q VI Ii Il II \.


| Florence have been less pleased and interested
at Roms than any other place of my snjourn in Eu-
rope. | mentioned in former letter that found
| 1t the reverse of what expected. Travellers are
much disposed 10 allow their imsg TO run
away with facts, that it is most diffcuh TO get
a correct idea of foreign city, especially such
one as Rome, with which every bodyfs Imagination
takes just such liberties az they think proper. In
stead offthe gloomy, silent, melancholy Rome-the
+" Niobe Of Nations" &c -" where" as some one
! Told me, " were TO be but priests beg
CARS, soldiers, and artists" entered by The Por
ia def popufo into gay and elegant modern city,
vieing with Paris in briliiancy, and appearing To
have even less connection with antiquity Of priests
and beggars it has equal number withoi ltal-
ian cities and could see very little difference in
the crowded streets from those of Paris. Di.cop-
meeting Rome entirely from its historical associa~
tons, there is not gayer or lighter looking city
any where; and there is probably less to call up
these associations of antiquity than is be found
in any other city in Italy. These my first i'm
pre.sions on entering the city; and, after resi-
/
and Aeas ii certainly has no equal. 81. Peters,
which is generally the first object that attFacis
strangers in Rome, IS certainly the largest church
| in the world and here my admiration
think there has been much money wasted to little
purpose as could wellbe conceived. Exceptnbg
ness the Capitol Of the United States is much
finer building. Indeed have no, seen fine
building our Capitol in Europe, The gothic Ca
thedral, France are Ne finest, but their interest
and beauty are OF so different style that they can
not be compared at all As for the churches al
Rome, some fine, others so so: but the per
vading style of archecture afflicted me like night
mare 1t seems to- me that bad has been
racked for its vilcst inventions produce the
of architecture that disgrace Rome, of which
St. Peter. is the great grandfather. The exter-
na form Of this you well acquainted with az
ami and also its location with regard to the other
buildings around it. Thegreat Colonnade, which
alone. would be most superb object, comes in We
| r, badly with the church; and the Vatican, which
Is Of itself absurd pile OF building, being up
against the church aud higher than Il body OF 1t,
detract. very much from the effect. Then there
is no point from which i; is possible to obtain
fair view of the church whole, except the
Monte PineSo at distance of Two miles. was
most struck with it at FIRST; and il lost by every
subsequent visit. However, summing up every
thing, am not sure but that people generally
would call ST. Peters magnificent. Its situation,
the Valican and the Coonpade, were aaooyances
externally which never could get over. Internal
ly the bad statues, mosaics, and general bad
taste of the prosuse ornaments, entirely overcome
the effec, OF its really grand design. Thus much
of modern Rome,
/ OF the ruins have even e.s to say. All irte-
rest in them, rs far ss am concerned, has been
entirely taken ava. by the usesto which they have
been converted. A temple Of Jupiter now forms
part Of the City Dogand, tcustom house. The
Pantheon and many other temples are repaited and
used as Catholic chspsls. The enormous Colosse-
urn looks like unfinished contract than
ruin oftwo thousand years. IN many places 1t is
repaired and repairing at present. flled with scat
folding and new brick work which meet and dis
gust at every point The arena--instesd Of being
filed with broken columns and overgrown with
rank weeds which might imagine we're nour-
ished with the blood of the thousand gladaors that
died here's neatly arranged with gravsl-woks
aud grass-plots. Around it are twelve new and ell
eeant Madonna 6oxes, and in the centre great
cross orname nted with the symbols OF the passion.
Although have never felt the slightest prejudice
against any OF the forms of Catholic worship, yet
the mode OF introducing these tawdry things among
the tremendous relics Of antiquity entirely destroys
their interest and poetry Why are they not left
: 10 rnoulder in their own magniScence1
The baths OF Carscalla, palaces OF the Caesars,
&C.. have not been used in this way, and conse-
auently affect the mind more. The Campagna Of
Rome, however, is where ruins may be seen in
their true desolation and where can contem-
Mate and poetize undisturbed Bur to be carried
back among the ancents b. force: TO see them In
their public and private relations at their wor'
shin; at their feasts their games; their every day
emnloyments :-one must visit Pompe,i. He mus,
set himself down upon a broken column and df'v-
ing away the oiEcious guide allow his imagination
to people the desola,ion around: the shops: the
streets, marked with the tracks of carriages: the
chambers; the halls, With tables and wine cups
strewed about: the forums: the temples, and the
affairs of the gods, around and upon which are st
scattered the charred embers Of the last sacrifice
For this sort of pleasure one hour 10 Pompeh u
worth ten years in Rome.