The Madisonian. [volume] (Washington City [i.e. Washington, D.C.]) 1837-1845, 1839-04-06

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tered in the route is species Of volcano. II
was beautiful evening when we left the
miserable village where we were to lodge,
and sought this singular spot. We were in
the very midst of the Apprentices. The air
was cool and bracing, and over the western
horizon fingered the rich rosy glow that sue
ceeds fine sunset, as il the portals of heaven |
were half open to the longing gaze. Along
the rocky path above us several peasant girls
were carrying vases Of water on their heads
from favorite spring, singing as they went,
and their clear voices came with kind of
wild melody to our ears. The whole scene
was well calculated TO convey that soothing
idea OF the repose Of pastoral life, which, at
Intervals fascinates even the least inclined
to solitude. We found the object Of our
search in the midst Of stony soil. Flames,
evidently OF ignited gas, issued from the
ground in circle Of about ten feet in dame
ter. About the centre, the largest fame was
red, and burned steadily; but the other were
Of pale violet color and quivered incessant-
ly, seeming To- creep along the ground as the
night breeze swept over them. In truth the
appearance Of the fire was precisely that
which we might image Of the magic circle Of
some ancient sorcerer; and the dreary loneli-
ness OF tho spot seemed finely adapted to the
idea. The flames burn more brightly after
rain, but no one in the neighborhood recolects
any particular change in the volcano. 1t has
never been known 10 disgorge sulphurous
matter, or exhibit any other phenomena than
at present; but ever burns with constant
and apparently inextnguishable fire.
Porticos line all the principal streets of Be-
logna; and however convenient their shelter
may prove to a pedestrian on a rainy day, il
requires no little time for the stranger to be-
come reconciled to the sombre impression
they produce. The most extensive line OF
these arches is that which leads from the city
To the church Of st. Luke, a distance Of three
miles. The promenade on fine day displays
at every turn beautiful views Of surrounding
plains !; and the elevated position Of the tenn
pie OF the patron saint Of the Bolognese, ap.
preached by such noble range of porticos,
strikes the traveller MS well conceived idea.
The passion for this style OF building has ex-
tended to many of the adjacent towns, and the
three first tiers Of the spacious theatre of Bo-
ogna present the same fa,orite form. The
gloomy aspect Of this style Of street architec-
ture is enhanced by the solitude that prevails
in many parts Of this extensive town-and late
in the evening, when the lamps shed a daz-
cling light at long intervals through the long
and silent vistas Of the less ffequented ways,
a scenic effect is produced favorable to roman
tic impressions.
remember being struck, upon entering the
city after night-fall by Of its solitary gates,
with the picture formed by decrepid and
withered old woman, seated at the foot OF
one Of the pillars Of a dark portico, roasting
chestnuts. The laird glare Of her charcoal
III shut up, IN nrrui GasiIes, 10 tile toP Of the
arch, bringing her haggard features in the
strong relief, while all around was involved in
deep shade. Perhaps the most impressive Of
the travellers experience in this unprepos-
sessing city is the view from the summit OF
the old leaning tower in the piazza, and two
or three Of the faces depicted on the inspired
canvass Of the old masters in the academy
The eye Of Raphaels st. Cecilia, the express
sion Of some Of the figures in the celebrated
massacre Of the Innocents, and especially the
npturned and beaming look Of Guido's Mag
dalen crouched at the cross, haunt the ina
gination long after the eye has ceased to behold
them. The most annoying feature IN the pre-
sent aspect Of Bologna is the presence OF the
Austrian troops, sputtering their gutterals in
CAFES, parading beneath the arcades, and
drawn up in files in the saloon Of the theatre.
Every where one encounters the insignia OF
despotism, and perhaps, to liberal mind the
most painful associations are derived from the
appearance of some Of the fine looking Swiss
officers, sons Of the mountains, and recipients
of nobler political influence than their fellows,
and vet content to be the hireling oppressors
of foreign soil.
One Of the richest palaces Of Bologna be-
longs to nobleman who espoused the sister
of Napoleon, and there is scarce one OF Its
splendid apartments unadorned with some
memorial OF his person or life. Here is a
por1rat exhibiting the free and fresh express
sion of irresponsible youth there the same
brow appears shaded by a military cap or
glittering coronet; here that extraordinary
countenance is exquisitely delineated upon
small surface Of ivory, and there deliberately
carved, in the centre Of petra deud table.
In the centre Of richly curtained cabinet is
his bust by Canova over the fireplace OF a
silk hung bedroom is his head, surrounded
by rays; and on the damask walls Of the
magnificent saloon hangs his full-length por-
trait, splendidly arrayed in coronation robes,
In another apartment we behold his statue in
marble, surrounded by those Of his family,
and on table, in an adjoining room, we gaze
on the same remarkable features fixed in the
still rigidity Of death, in the form Of bronze
cast taken after his decease. 1t is enough to
temper the eagerness Of the veriest enthusi-
asst in the pursuit Of glory, to wander through
this quiet, lofty, and elegantly decorated pa
lace, and as his eye rests on these memorials,
call to mind successfully the most wonderful
epochs of Napoleon's life. He seems almost
10 move before you, and the drama of his
memorable career TO be acted rapidly out in
the imagination. We remember his early
achievements, his startling victories, his sud