Morning herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1837-1840, 1838-09-29
Cookery and eating Houses.

Cookery anu haunS houses.
1t is not great things, but rities which principally
make sp the sum of happiness. Who would not think
dull razsr, which draws tears from the eyes every
morning a creaking tavern sign, which dslurbs us
every night much greater evil than the single sharp
pang oecasoned by the drawing of tooth? An act
like eating, therefore, which is repeated several times
every oay by the millions who inhabit the globe, is
SUBJECT of serious investigation The scientific pride
which dlsdains to dwell on the ordinary affairs Of
common life, is rapidly vanishing; and in an age
when utility IS the great object of the philosopher
cookery may hope to engage share Of his attention.
1t has been asked, why does man cook? Why does
he, unlike the lower animals transform the materials
which nature gives him tor nourshment at least, with
the exception OF some savage tribes? Some philoso-
pliers have ascrlbed it TO desire innate in man TO
make changes in everything that he meets. But
however philosophers may solve this question, the fact
is clear that we cook and all agree in desiring some
thing palaable. Everybody knows that ,houaanis
of people in this city alone generally spoil what ma
ture affords them nourishment; and he would be
grea, beRefactor TO his people, who should teach them
to adopt system Of cookery which would make
their dishes al once palatable and wholesome Rum
ford has attained deserved celebrity for his efforts to
improve the foed of the poor and he would be no
small benefaetor of his Species whe should be equal
y successful in improving the diet of the people at
large. Most modern books on cookery are devoted
to the preparation of refined dishes; and very an
founded prejudice prevails if the culinary ART were
too trivial matter TO engage a rejecting mind
There is one book, however, that the of
the people at large although It's principles are insult
fciendy understood. This excellent work of which
we should be glad 10 translation is called Geist
der Kochkunst, Konig, herausgegeber ron c. r.
Rumohr, Stuttgart 1922 THE Spirit of Cookery,
by Kong, edited by the Baron Won Rumshr) Prizes
might be offered for the invention of cheap and whole
some dishes, and more care might be taken to pro-
vide good cooks, by setting on foot establishments
where particular Instructions should be gwen 10 girls
desirous OF becoming cooks. It's little surprising,
that while 80 much care is bestowed on the improve
msnt OF the fruits of the earth, and the animals used
for food SO little attention. comparatively speaking 10
given TO improving the culinary processes which rem
der them fiji for afording nounshment In addition
TO the work of baron Rumohr aforementioned, two
Of the best books on this subject are the Cooks
Oracle and Housekeepers Manual" by William
Kitchener, Nj. d., adapted 10 the American public by
a medical gentleman-New York, 1880; and the
/" French Cook by Lewis Eustache Ude, reprinted
al Philadelphia in 1928. The latter work. however
is adapted more particularly for those who say with
VoitaIre, Gum cuisinier est mortei dirin! The
system Of cooking in New York has many defects
Many dishes are spoiled by butter and fat, and, on
The whole too mach meat is eaten-a very natural
consequence of which is the everlasting complaint of
dyspepsia city SO rich ia fruits ought to allow
them large place in its cookery. II the culinary
should be properly investigated many facts would
be brought 10 light which have yet been little at
tended to. Thus for instance il would be very in
teresting, in medical peint Of view to show the in
innate connection of different diseases with the GEN.
mon dishes.
With regard TO our eating houses, many Of them
are real blessings to the community, inasmuch as
their propretors take uncommon pains to have the
best Of cooks, various and wholesome food, and ex-
cellent apartments. How many Of our worthy and
useful young men have been seriously injured by the
improperly cooked food daily served up at small
boarding houses! How many who were formerly
unable attend TO their daily avocalions account
of debility and other complaints, are now enjoying
excellent health
And why2 Because they have taken their E:eals
at houses where the cooks daily dish up poison. IL
then becomes a desideratum TO know where we can
get good food properly cooked. And no where can
food be obtained in greater degree Of perfection than
al John Swcney's LA Fulton street.