The Columbia Democrat. [volume] (Bloomsburg, Pa.) 1837-1850, 1838-02-10

For measuring and drafting coats, in con-
nectlon with another new and useful rule
for cutting sale or boys coats upon more
familiar plan also, superior rules for cut
ting all other garments incumbent on that
branch, are now offered to the trade by the
subscribers beliving them to surpass eve
ry thing of the kind which has proceeded
them.
SELF-VARYING RULE.
Great imperfections in the art and liabil-
tiles to produce miss-lit have been stand
ing before the cutter ever since the intro
duction of rules, filling the mind with fear
and anxiety, until the coat is finished and
tried on, at which crisis the blood is often
caused to rush into the face at beholding a
bad fitting coat.
The rules, with one or two exceptions,
which have been in use ever since the first
invention of the kind, were wholly predi-
Gated upon principles giving the same pro-
portion for every man, which principles
would long since have been superseded by
selG-varyng rules, had taors but thought
that the variation in the proportions ofmen's
bodies are almost as many as in the features
of the face.
Two or three rules styled SeH-Udrying,
have made their appearance within about as
many years, each inventor claiming the hon
or of having perfected the art, upon which ].
G.. Wilson, OF New Y York, entitled his sys-
TEN perlect but instead Of being perfect,
| it contains many erroneous principles, which
| the subscribers forbear to point out until
that gentleman assails this assertion. All
such systems have heretofore been defective
in two ways; First, they are only IN part
self-varying. Secondly, those parts which
are intended TO be self-varying are defective.
In fact, there are certain points on the coat
which cannot be effected by self,varying
principles in any other way, nor by any
other means, than those laid down by the
subscribers.
Unlike any other Of the kind, this sys-
TEN now offered to the trade is conducted
without any breast measure, and effects ev-
cry point and every part of the coat by self
varying principles, in way calculated to
convict the senses of any reasonable man,
that should it ever fail to produce good fit
upon any shape whatever, the charge must
be laid to a careless and incorrect measure
ment. 1t may seem mysterious that this
rule is said to be sell-varying, and yet a
square rule--a square rule and yet conduct
ed without breast measure /; but the whole
mystery viii be unfolded at once by exam
ination. Unwilling 10 have it said that the
subscribers are attempting to palm this sys-
tenn upon the trade with Misrepresentation,
they avow their willingness to submit it in
to the hands of an impartial committee for
an examination of its principles, in compar-
ison with any other ever invented in the
United States, at Philadelphia or New Y York,
which committee shall make the decision
known through the press. The subscri-
bers set all systems which are governed
wholly by the breast measure aside as in
ferior and not worthy to compare with /;
consequently they will compare with none
but such as are governed in part by self
varying principles. For if the princip pies
here offered to the trade are not worthy of
patronage it is right that it should be made
known, and they sink into oblivion. On the
contrary, if they are found as above repres-
ented, or if thereby the subscribers have put
an end TO all further improvements in the
art Of cutting coats they deserve some pat
ronage and compensation for their exertions.
Terms--if forwarded to order $40, if per
sonally taught Sl2
CHARLES KAHLER,
WILLIAM KAHLER.