The Columbia Democrat. [volume] (Bloomsburg, Pa.) 1837-1850, 1838-02-17
FEBRUARY 8, 1898.
EnnnorGant 60 Tailors !
PATENT ELASTIC SQUARE
AND
&eIf.VaPYIQlg Square hgIlle,

Segf-vaPyiQlg Square hguse,
For measuring and drafting coats, in con-
nection with another new and useful rule
for cutting sale or boys coats upon more
familiar plan also, superior rules for cut
ting all other garments incumbent on that
branch, are now offered to the trade by the
subscribers; beliving them to surpass eve
ry thing of the kind which has proceeded
them.
SELF-VARYING RULE.
Great impcrfections in the art and liabll-
tiles to produce miss-ft have been stand
inc before the cutter ever since the intro
duction of rules, filling the mind with lear
and anxiety, until the coat is finished and
tried on, at which crisis the blood is often
caused to rush into the face at beholdlng
bad fitting coat
The rules, with one or two exceptions,
which have been in use ever since the first
invention of tie kind, were wholly predl-
Gated upon principles giving the same pro
portion for every man, which principles
would long since have been superseded by
self-varying rules, had tailors but thought
that the variation in the proportions otmens
bodies are almost as many as in the features
Of the face.
Two or three rules styled Ssf-uaryinS,
have made their appearance within about as
many years, each inventor claiming the hon
or of having perfected the art upon which j.
G. Wilson, OF New York, entitled his sys-
TEN perfect; but instead of being perfect,
it tcontains many erroneous principles, which
the subscribers forbear to point out until
that gentleman assails this assertion. All
such systems have heretofore been defective
in two ways First, they are only IN pert
self-varying. Secondly, those parts which
are intended TO be self-varying are defective.
In fact, there are certain points on the coat
which cannot be effected by seli-varylng
principles in any other way, nor by any
other means, than those laid down BY the
subscribers.
Unlike any other of the kind, this sys-
TEN now offered to the trade is conducted
without any breast measure, and effects ey-
cry point and every part of the coat by self
varying principles, in way calculated to
convict the senses of any reasonable man,
that should it ever fail to produce good fit
upon any shape whatever, the charge must
be laid 10 careless and incorrect measure
ment. Il may seem mysterious that this
rule is said to be selfyaryiug, and yet
square rule---a square rule and yet conduct
ed without breast measure but the whole
mystery will be unfolded at once by exam
nation. Unwilling 10 have it said that the
subscribers are attempting to palm this sys-
TEN upon the trade with Misrepresentation,
they avow their willingness to submltlt in
TO the hands of an impartial committee for
an examination Of its principles, in compar-
| ison with any other ever invented in the
United States, at Philadelphia or New Iork,
which committee shall make the decision
known through the press. The subscri,
bers set all systems which are governed
wholly by the breast measure aside as IN
ferior and not worthy TO compare with
consequently they will compare with nont
but such as are governed in part by self
varying principles. For if the principles
here offered to the trade aIe not worthy o
patronage 1t is right that it should be made
! known, and they sink into oblivion. On th'
contrary, if they are lourd as above repres
ented, or if thereby the subscribers have pu
an end 10 all further Improvements in tn
art of cutting coats they deserve some pat
ronage and compensation for their exerhon;
Terms-if forwarded to order $40, il PEI
sonally taught sl2
CHARLES KAHLER,
yuTT YVAHF Il ANTV T. p