The Columbia Democrat. [volume] (Bloomsburg, Pa.) 1837-1850, 1838-03-03
Important to Tailors J
PATENT ELASTIC SQUARE
AND
SeIf.vary5ng Square Rule,

eSClR"N sSE AAAs8 t9VNHadhC HSuAS1
For measuring and drafting coats, in con-
nection with another new and useful rule
for cutting sale or boys coats upon more
familiar plan also, superior rules for cut
ting all other garments incumbent on that
branch, are now offered to the trade by the
subscribers; beliving them to surpass eve
ry thing of the kind which has proceeded
them.
SELF-VARYING RULE.
Great impcrfections in the art and labil-
tiles TO produce a miss-ft have been stand
ing before the cutter ever since the intro
duction Of rules, filling the mind with fear
and anxiety, until the coat is finished and
tried on, at which crisis the blood is often
caused 10 rush inte the face at beholding a
bad fitting coat.
The rules, with one or two exceptions,
which have been in use ever since the first
invention Of the kind, were wholly predi-
Gated upon principles giving the same pro
portion for every man, which principles
would long since have been superseded by
sell-varying rules, had tailors but thought
that the variation in the proportions ofmen's
bodies are almost as many as in the features
of the face.
Two or three rules styled SelfUarying,
have made their appearance within about as
many years, each inventor claiming the hon
or of having perfected the art, upon which j.
G. Wilson, OF New York, entitled his sys-
TEN perfect; but instead of being perfect,
it tcontaius many erroneous principles, which
the subscribers forbear to point ont until
that gentleman assails this assertion. All
such systems have heretofore been defective
in two ways: First, they are only IN part
self-varying. Secondly, those parts which
arc intended to be self-yarying are defective.
In fact, there are certain points on the coat
which cannot be effected by self-varying
principles in any other way, nor by any
other means, than those laid down by the
subscribers.
Unlike any other of the kind, this sys
TEN now offered to the trade is conducted
without any breast measure, and effects ev
erv point aud every part of the coatby self
varying principles, in way calculated Il
convict the senses of any reasonable man
that should il ever fail to produce good fl
upon any shape whatever, the charge mus
be laid to 4 careless and incorrect measure
ment. 1t may seem mysterious that thi
/ rule is said to be self-varying, and yet
square rule--a square rule and yet conduct
ed without a breast measure but the who'll
mystery will be unfo.ded at once by exam
nation. Unwilling to have it said that tn
subscribers are attempting to palm this sys
tenn upon the trade with misrepresentation
: they ayow their willingness to submitit in
to the hands of an impartial committee 70
an examination Of its principles, in compar
|, ison with any other ever invented in tn
United States, at Philadelphia or New FORK
which committee shall make the decisio
known through the press. The subscr
bers set all systems which are govene
wholly by the breast measure aside as in
ferior aud not worthy to compare with
consequently they win compare with non
Z but such as are governed in part by sci
, varying principles. For if the principle
: here offered to the trade are not worthy {
: patronage it is right that il should be mao
! known, and they sink into oblivion. On II
1 contrary, if they are found as above repre-
c enlcd, or if thereby the subscribers have pi
= an end To all further improvements in II
Ii art Of cutting coats ihey deserve some pa
ronage and compensation for their exerhon
: Terms--if forwarded to order $40, if pc
sonalIy taught 9l2
CHARLES KAHLER,
VII.IIAM KAHIER