The Columbia Democrat. [volume] (Bloomsburg, Pa.) 1837-1850, 1838-03-10

TOT IuCdSuIluO anu III GlllilS NOatSi III WI
nection with another new and useful rule
for cutting sale or boys coats upon more
familiar plan also, superior rules for cut
ting all other garments incumbent on that
branch, are now offered to the trade by thc
beliving them to surpass eve
ry thing of the kind which has proceeded
them.
SELF-VARYING RULE.
Great imperfections in the art and linbil-
tiles to produce miss-ft have been stand
ing before the cutter ever since the intro
duction Of rules, filling the mind with fear
and anxiety, until the coat is finished and
tried on, at which crisis the blood is often
caused to rush into the face at beholdng a
bad fitting coat.
The rules, with one or two exceptions,
which have been in use ever since the first
invention of the kind, were wholly predi-
Gated upon principles giving the same pro-
portion for every man, which principles
would long since have been superseded by !
self-varying rules, had tailors but thought
that the variation in the proportions oimen's
bodies are almost as many as in the features
of the face.
Two or three rules styled Selfuarying,
have made their appearance within about as
many years, each inventor claiming the hon
or Of having perfected the art, upon which j.
G.. Wilson, Of New York, entitled his sys-
tenn perfect but instead Of being perfect,
it contains many erroneous principles, which
the subscribers forbear to point ont until
that gentleman assails this assertion. All
such systems have heretofore been defective
in two ways: First, they are only IN part
self-varying. Secondly, those parts which
are intended to be self-varying are defective.
In fact, there are certain points on the coat
which cannot be effected by self,varying
principles in any other way, nor by any
other means, than those laid down by the
subscribers.
Unlike any other Of the kind, this sys-
tenn now offered to the trade is conducted
without any breast measure, and effects ev-
erv point and every part of the coat by self
varying principles, in way calculated to
convict the senses of any reasonable man,
that should 1t ever fail to produce good fl
upon any shape whatever, the charge must
be laid to careless and incorrect measure.
ment. 1t may seem mysterious that this
: rule is said to be self-varying, and yet 9
square rule-a square rule and yet conduct.
ed without breast measure but the whole
: mystery will be unlolded at once by exam
ination. Unwilling to have it said that the
subscribers are attempting to palm this sys
TEN upon the trade with misrepresentation
they avow their willingness to submit 1t in
: to the hands Of an impartial committee fo
an examination of its principles, in compar
json with any other ever invented in tn
United States, at Philadelphia or New York
which committee shall make the decision
. known through the press. The substri
4 bers set all systems which are governet
wholly by the breast measure aside as in
ferior and not worthy to compare with
. consequently they will compare with non
but such as are governed in part by sell
varying principles. For if the principle
: here offered to the trade are not worthy Q
4 patronage il is right that it should be mad
. known, and they sink into oblivion. On tn
= contrary, if they are found as above repre'
!. ented or if thereby the subscribers have pl
II an end to all further improvements in tn
art Of cutting coats they deserve some pa
V ronage and compensation for their exeruon
I Terms-if forwarded to order $40, if pc
3 sonally taught Sl2
CHARLES KAlLEk,
WILLIAM KAHLER.
Bloomsbury, Pa. Feb. 10, 1888. a.