The Arkansas advocate., 1836-05-20

It was just night when began 10 des- cend the last mountain between the village of San Fernandez, in the valley of Taos, and that of El Embudo, twenty-five miles from Ii, and to which was now approach ing. l had ascended these mountains in i the midst of a fierce storm of snow, which, as night came on, had lulled, leaVing the wind still blowing heavily through the moun- tain pines. is descended, the darkness and the cold both grew more intense and palpable. We'll wrapped, however, in blankets, and trusting implicitly 70 our sure-f footed mules, we descended the mountain, not swiftly, but safely. At times the descent was so precipitous, that l was only kept from falling by the aid of the deep saddle and the broad wooden stir rups of my friend, the worshipfuI Don Pe- dro Vigil, who, owning the best house, the best horses, and the prettiest wife in the 9alIey of San Fernandez, had kindly SUD- piled us with mules and guide. So soon as 1 arrived at part of the hill whence the descent was less rapid and dangerous, put my mule to the best speed which l could ac- eompish by means of the long and heavy iron spurs which wore, at each application of which niy mule uttered q groan. accom- panied by u sensible increase of speed. Crossing the small river, which, running out of narrow canon or valley 10 the east ward of the road, supplies water to the in- habitants, and which, frozen as 1t vas, caus- ed my mule more fear with its perilons slip periness, and to me, more difficulty, than all the voyage beside crossing this, we heard the baying of dogs, to us a welcome sound, and were soon within the village. Neither, then, however, with its still, sonbre, dun geon-like appearances. nor on the following morning, as Ii lay in the midst ef, the valley, with the hills rising all about t, bare, red and desolates and frowning gloomily over the fnonotonous whiteness of the plain neither at one time nor the other, had 1t much of attraction for us. But have seen il at another time and under happier ausp
 ces--in the early autumn, when the corn and wheat were rpening over the whole valley, and when the mountains, partially clad in green, had not the sanig gloomy look as in the depth of winter, aud when the river sparkled and rattled as 1t ran towards Fl Embudo, or the tunnel, the passage through the rdtks, whence the village de- riyes its name.
 Is r9e entered the village, everything save the plying of the dogs was silent; no merry lights gleamed from the easements, and the houses, as they stood huddled together like so many brick kilns, had a certain churlish and inhospitable look. As we had no viz sions which might prove realities, of any thing here in the shape of merry tavern, with its good supper, good oeds and jolly landlord, we agreed to apply at the best house in the village we were not iong in nstructing our guide to that effect Ac- cordngly, turning int5 a roughly fenced en- closure, we found ourselves in front of a house, which, with its piazza in front, seemed superior to the habnatlons around 4. Here our guide knocked at the small and only window he discovered, and after various invocations to 'sLa Santa Maria," and other saints of both sexes, he succeed ed in arousiiig those within, and requested admittance in the name of the party. Adj os!' was answered in shrill voice, there are no men in the house, and you have frightened us already. We cannot admit you.' In this extremity, our guide be- thought himself of the only sure means of obtaining an entrance. 'Pero, Senora,' (but madam,) said he, they are Ameflca- nos, and they pay well.' am not prepared tosay which clause of this speech produced the effect whether our character as Ameri- cans. or as good paymasters; but of a cer- tanty, the folding doors were soon wide open, and the lady of the house received US l in her kindest manner. Passing through the sala, or long hall, which was garnished
 with vast quantities of buffalo meat, in thin, 1 dry Aeeces, as well as with huge strings of onions, and with red and green pepper, be- sides numberless saddle trees, heavy brI
 ed the small square room, which was the
 winter residence. In one corner of 1t stood 1 the little fireplace, like a square stove. open
 on two sides, and filled with sticks of pine
 set upright and burlsing, filling all the room
 with heat and comfort. Round the whole
 room, except the part occupied by two mat l tresses, was pile of blankets. striped red
 and white, answering the purpose of sofas. l High up on the walls were various small
 looking glasses, pictures of saints, wooden
 images of the Saviour, and wooden crucifix-
 5,s, i;s.oss ie.sed with divers roses ol req ana
 white cambrc. These, with two or three wooden benches, which served for both
 chairs and tables, completed the furniture
 of the room. The inmates of inc house were but two. The mistress of 1t was a
 woman of about thirty years of age, of fca-
 lures which, as I discovered in my autumn
 visit were not unpleasing, when left to sl eIvec huf which af fhis time were hi-