Phenix gazette. [volume] (Alexandria [D.C.]) 1825-1833, 1832-08-03
FIRST IMPRESSION OF EUROPE

BY n. +. WILLIS.
Passage do,on the Saone-an old acquaintance
Lyons-church of Notre Dame dc Fourr'sr'
es- risw from The to'oer
looked out of my window the last thing be-
fore gons to bed at Chalons AMI the tam,'iar
constellation of ursa major never shone or'shter'
and never made me more asreeao'e PF'",se
than that Of fair weather the following gay Tor
nv passage down the Saone. was caieu al
four, and it raned in torrents. Inc steamboat
was smaller than the smallest have seen 10 'ur
country, crowded to suffocatlon with ch'ld'en'
woman, and lap-dogs. appropriated my own
trunk, and spreading my umbrella sat a1"" wv
on it, to endure my disappointment WIN WA
philosophy l might. A dirtv-lookins tc'ow' "'''
must have slept IN his clothes for month, fa''e
nm. with n loaf Of coarse bread under his a:Ja
and addressed me, to my sufficient astonl,hm ~
in Latin. He wanted to sit under my umoreIa
looked at him a second time but lie touched
nv compassion. Latin is the only thing ha.e
been driven to in this world that ever really
loved; and the clear mellow. unctious pronuncia-
ton OF my dirty companion equally a'tnnished
and pleased me. made room for him on nv
trunk. and though rusted somewhat since PHI
Iosophized over Lucreuus; we got on very toll
erably. lie vas a German student, travelling to
Italy and a fine specimen of the class.
A d,rtier man never saw, and hardly liner
or more intellectual face. lie knew every
thing, and served me as talking guide to the
history of all the places on the river. Instead OF
eating, all at once, as we do on board the steam
boats in America, the French bnats have res
taura,,t, from which you order what you please.
and at any hour. The cabin was set round With
small tables and the passengers made little par
ties and breakfasted and dined at their own
time. II is much the better method. descen-
ded to the cabin very hungry about twelve o.
clsck, and was looking about for place. when
French gentleman politely rose. and observing
that was alone, (my German friend living Oh
bread and water only, requested me to join his
party at breakfast. Two young ladies and a lad
of fourteen sat at the table, and addressing them
BY their familiar names. my petite friend request
ed them to give me a place; and then told me
that they were his daughters and son, and that
he was travelling to Italy tor the health OF the
youngest girl, a pale, slender creature, appa-
rently eighteen. | was very well pleased with
my position and rarely have past an hour more
agreeably. French girls Of the better classes
never talk, but the father was very communca-
tive, and Partisan. with the cross of the legion
of honour, and we found abundance OF matter
for conversation. They have stopped at Lyons.
where write at present. and l shall probably
join their party to MarselIles.
The clouds broke away after midday, and
the banks of the river Frightened wonderfully
with the change. The Saone is about the slZe OF
the Mohawk, but not halt SO beautiful. at least for
the greater part Of its course. Indeed, you can
hardly compare American with European rivers,
for the charm is of another desert ption quite
With us it is nature only, here 1t is almost all
IA nj, lnyply hpc the OUtlIup
of the shore is graceful, and particularly because
the vegetation is luxurant The hills are green,
the foliage deep and lavish, the mountains in the
distance covered with pines and other forest trees;
everv thing is wild, and nothing looks bare or
sterile.-The rivers of France are owned on
every height with ruins. and in the bosum OF every
valley lies cluster OF picturesque stone cottages;
but the fields are naked, and there are no trees;
the mountains are barren and brown, and every
thing looks as il the dwellings had been deserted
by the people. and nature had at the same time
gone to decay. can conceive nothing more mel.
ancholy than the views upon the Saone, seen,
as saw them, though vegetation is out every
where, and the banks should be beautiful if ev-
CIR.
As we approached Lyons the river narrowed,
and grew builder, and the last ten miles were ell
chanting. Naturally the shores at this part OF
the Saone are exceedingly like the highlands of
the Hudson above West Point. Abrupt hills
rise from the rivers edge. and the winnings are
sharp and constant. But imagin the highl ands
of the II id,on crowded with antique chateaux.
and covered to the very top with terraces and
summer houses and hanging gardens, gravel
walks and beds Of flowers, instead of wild pines
and preclpices, and you may get very correct
idea Of the Saone above Lyons You emerge from
one of the dark passes of the river by Sudden
turn, and there before you lies this large city,
built on both banks, at the foot and on the side
of the mountains. The bridges, are fine, and the
broad crowded 1uays all along the edges Of the
rivers, have beautiful effect We landed at
the stone stairs, and selected hotel by chance;
where found seven Americans Of my acguaInt.
ance. We have been spending the evening at
the rooms of townsman OF mre, very pleasant
~.
There is great deal of masnificence at Lyons,
in the way of quays, promenades, and buildings:
but its excessive fii,hiness spells every thing -
One could scarce admire Venus in such an at
mosphere; and you cannot find room to stand in
Lyons where you have not some nausrat'ns odor.
| was glad to escape from the lower streets, and