Phenix gazette. [volume] (Alexandria [D.C.]) 1825-1833, 1832-06-13

heir weapons al hand, slung to their saddles, and
ready to be snatched down for desperate defence.
| But their united numbers render them secure
against petty bands of marauders, and the sOlita,
ry bandalero, armed to the teeth, and mounted Oh
his Andausian steed, hovers about them, like
pirate about merchant convoy, without daring to
! make an assault.
The Spanish muIeteer has an inexhaustible
stock of songs and ballads, with which to beeuile
his incessant way .faring. The airs are rude and
simple, consisting of but few inlexions. These he
chants forth with loud voice, and long drawing
cadence. seated sideways on his mule, who seems
to listen with infinite gravity, and to keep time
with his PAGES to the tune. The coupets thus
chanted are often old traditional romances about
the Moors; or some legend Of a saint; or some
love ditty; or, what it still more frequent, some
ballad about bold contrabandi,ta, or hardy ban
dalero; for the smugger and the robber are poe
tical heroes among the common people of Spain.
Often the song Of the muleteer is composed at the
instant, and relates to some local scene or some
incident Of the journey. This talent Of singing
and improvising is frequent 10 Spain, and is said
to have been inherited from the Moors. There Is
something wildly pleasing in listening to these
dtties among the rude and lonely scenes they IL
lustrate, accompanied as they are, by the Occa-
sional jingle Of the mule-bel.
1t has a most picturesque effect, also, to meet
a train of muleteers in some mountain pass
FIRST YOU here the bells Of the leading mules.
breaking with their simple melody the stiffness
of the airy height; or, perhaps, the voice OF the
mulateer admonishing some tardy or faulter-
ing animal, or chanting, at the fall stretch OF his
lungs. some Evolutionary ballad. AT length you
see the mules slowly winding along the dragged
defle, sometimes descending preciFitous cliffs, 50
as to present themselves in full relief against the
sky, sometimes to!ling up the deep arid chasms
below YOU As they approach, YOU descry their
gay decorations of worsted tufts, tassels,and sad
die cloths; while, as they passby, the ever ready
trabucho, slung behind their packs aud saddles,
gives hint Of the insecurity OF the road.
The ancient kingdom Of Granada into which
we are about 10 penetrate is one Of the most
mountainous regions Of Spain. Vast serras or
chains Of mountains, destitute Of shrub or tree,
and mottled with variegated marbles and gran
ties, elevate their sun-burnt SUBMITS against a
deep blue sky, yet in their rugged bosoms lie en-
quilted the most verdant and fertile valley, where
the desert and the garden strive for mastery,
and the very rock, as it were, compelled to yieid
the Ge, the orange, and the citron, and to bios
som with the myrtle and the rose.
Iu the wild passes of these mountains, the sight
of walled towns and villages built like eagles
nests among the cliffs, and surrounded by Moor
,sh battements, orof ruined watch towers perch
ed on lofty peaks, carry the mind back to the
chiyalrous days of Christian and Mcseln warfare,
aud to tue romantic struggle for the conquest oil
Granada. In travelling their lofty Slerras, the
Traveller is often obliged to alisht and lead his
horse up and down the steep and jagged ascents
and descents, resembling the broken steps OF a
staircase. Sometimes the road winds along dIz-
rI IN from
the cults below, and then will plunge down steep
and dark and dangerous declivities Some.
times it struggles through rugged barancos, or
ray,nes, worn by water torrents, the obscure
paths of Contyabandista, while ever and anon,
the ominous cross, the memento OF rob.
berry and murder, erected on mound
of stones at some lonely part of the road, admo-
nishes the traveller that he is among the haunts
of banditti; perhaps, at that very moment, I'M
der the eve Of some lurking bandaerO Some
times in winding through the narrow valleys, he
is startled by hoarse believing, and beholds
above him, on some green fold of the mountain
side, herd of fierce Andulasian bulls, des-
tined for the combat Of the arena. There Is
something awful in the contemplation OF these
terrific animals clothed with tremendous strength,
and ranging their native pastures, IN untamed
wldness: strangers almost to the face OF man,
they know no one but the solitary herdsman who
attends upon them, and even he at times dares
not venture to approach them. The low below
inss of these bulls, and their n,enacng aspect as
they look down from their rocky height. give ad.
ditionaI wildness to the savage scenery around.
have been betrayed, unconsciousIy into
longer disquisition than had intended on the
several features of Spanish travelling; but there
| is romance about all the recolections of the
Peninsula, that is dear to the Imagination.
II was on the first of May that my companion
and myself set forth from Seville, on our route to
Granada We had made all the due prepare
tons for the nature of our journey, which lay
through mountainous regions where the roads are
little better than mere mule paths, and too ire
ouentIy beset BY robbers. The most valuable
part of our Luggage had been forwarded BY the
arrieros; we retained merely clothing and neces-
sares for the journey and money for the esPe ms.
latter to satisfy the expee Of robbers should
we be assaiIed, and to save ourselves from the
rough treatment that awaits the too wary and emp;
~ handed traveller. A couple Of stout hired
sysads we're provided for ourselves, and third