Phenix gazette. [volume] (Alexandria [D.C.]) 1825-1833, 1831-02-19

sheer affectation; but in scene OF unriVaiicd
beauty like this, with the Trojan PLAIN command,
ed by the lofty range of Ida before US; nehihd
the distant Mount Athos rearing It's 'o,ty "eao
above the low lands of Lemnos anu leneuos;
on our right the ruins OF Alexandria, OF iIoas'
and Lemnos; on our left the entrances OF the
Iiclespont. and the high lands Of lmbras and
Samothrace-add to the crowd of recollections
which rush on the mind while gazing on this
splcmlid panorama the magical effect OF an ORR
entail sunset, and in this spot the indulgence
of schoolboY's recollection will, perhaps, es-
cape the mputation of both pedantry and altecta-
ton.
We weighed anchor early the following morn
ing, and passed the castles at the mouth oil the
Hellespont with light breeze from thesouthward
With every stitch of canvass set, 1t was with jill
fculty that we made way against the strong all
verse current. Amongst the crowd OF souvenirs
which rush ON the mind IN passing these cele-
brated straits, we dwell with peculiar delight on
the story of Leander, associated as it is with the
| name Of Of our own Byron, who, 1t may De re-
collected. swan across it with an officer OF the
| Salsette frigate. This feat OF his lordshlp has
been much blazoned, though without reason, for
he did not attempt the most difficult part, which
was to swim back again. -,
Independent of the formidable castles which
of which are all "a feur deau," there is an ex-
tensive system of batteries and redonbts on the
heights near Sigeum and the opposite points OF
| the 'rhracian Chersohnesus. As we reconnolt-
cred with our glasses these formidable defences
we felt that. once in possession Of the Russians,
thew would laugh TO scorn the attempts oil all Eu-
rope to disodge them: even IN the hands of the
! Turks our squadron in SO7 found their POSI-
! ton before them untenaDle.
In the evening we passed the town Of Gallipo-
Ii, and held on our course through the night across
the sea of Marnora; the wind freshening from
the Southwark. At an early hour in the morn
ing, we came in sight Of the village OF San Ste
fano. and the beautiful summer place OF the Sui
TAM We could now descry from the deck the
graceful minarets and swelling cuPoas OF the
capital. BY eleven we rounded the Seraglio Point
and brought up in the Golden Horn opposite Gala.
IA. Then it was that panorama OF unrivaled
loneliness burst upon our enraptured vision, OF
which no description. however horld and accu-
rate can convey an adequate idea. In the course
of long naval career, it has been my lot to visit
at different periods most Of the beautiful spots
on the surface of the globe-the Bays OF Genoa
and Naples, the romantic Cinta Rio de Janerio,
and the more distant Sidney; but beautiful as
they certainly are, they must yield the palm Of
superior loneliness to Constantinople. On the
Asiatic side, succession OF beautiful country
houses surrounded by vines and beautiful gar
dens: on the left arm of the sea stretching far up
into Europe, in the middle of which stands the
tower of Leander; while from the European shore
rises Byzantium in gorgeous magnlticence,
vast amphitheatre Of reddish coloured buildings
beautifully interminged with trees and the dark
domes of the mosques and bazars, above which
rise the lofty minarets. surmOunted with the en-
L Al. G. rnrf.t ho xlhn e
standing out in distinct relieve from the trans
parent dark-blue sky. But enough OF dcscrp-
ton.
On landing at Galata, the illusion produced on
! the mind by distant view Immediately vanishes.
! Such a compound of filth & wretchedness never
beheld. l was only astonished that the plague
should ever cease it's ravages in its narrow streets
At Pera the vision frightened, tho the appearance
of this celebrated Frank quarter greatly disap-
pointed u.s. Its finest features are its barracks and
cemeteries; the latter are indescribably beau
tiful Barbarous though we style the Turks.
how far superior art they tins point to the more
civilized Europeans! There is an exquisite
feeling of delicacy and religious respect for the
dead, evnced by this people in the construction
Of their beautiful cemeteries, which must com
mand our warmest admiration. Aware thatour
stay would be extremely short. we made the
necessary dispositions for making the most OF 1t.
As preliminary measure, we engaged an ltal-
ian .:cicerone'' whom we fell IN with at an inn III
Pera On the following morning we pulled round
the Scraslio Point to see the Sultan going IN state
to the mosque of the Sultan Achmet.
The cortege was splendid. and realized to the
fullest extent all my preconceived ideas OF orient
al pomp and magnifcence. Mahmoud was mount
ed on a beautiful Arabian, and rode on without
casting look either to right or left. 1t was i'm
possible to gaze on this extraordinary man with
out deep feeling Of interest and admiration
Nurtured in adversely, unawed by the expert
ence of the past fierce and bloody insurrecton
at home or foreign aggression from without. with
an admirable singleness of purpose and mistaken
firmness, he pursues hissystem of reform. con-
fess am one of those who wish him success
A fine spectacle he certainly presents and bloody
and terrific as have been some acts OF his career,
it would be ungenerous not to give full weight
to his peculiar position. The countenanca OF the
Sultan wore an expression of sternness and ,au-
teur almost bordering on ferocity, heightened By
the most piercing pair of black eyes ever 6eheld