Phenix gazette. [volume] (Alexandria [D.C.]) 1825-1833, 1825-09-20

| ed with trees and strawberries, ornamentec
with elegant specimens of sculpture, amongst
which stands pre-eminent, the Farnese Bull
a groupe showing a grand effort of genius ano
art. This walk runs along the sea, forming s
beautiful terrace. In an open rotunda, or cir
cular building, stands a bust of Tasso' As
entered, to examine 1t more closely, was di
rected by the sentinel on duty at that spot, to
take off my hat. With pleasure made the
obeisance; for surely it is more agreeable tc
bow to the representation of Genius, thar tc
the edicts of Royalty; for such is the order here
to all who approach to read those p'acarded
ON the walls. How contemplate toa reflect
ing mind is such despotism.
The Opera House at Naples is considered
the largest in Europe. The night visited 1t,
part of the royal family, the Queen and the
Kings brother, Prince Leopold, being there,
it was Illuminated throughout-the coup d'Gil
was magnificent.
Next day, Sunday, I attended at the Royal
| Chapel-saw the King, Queen, and three
Young Princes, before whom a friar preached
a sermon of most questionable duration, up
wards of an hour; the auditors, excepting the
grandees, upwards ofthirty in number, stand
ing. The monk, in his gesticulations. equal
led our most heated MethOdists; and from his
often pointing below the pulpit, employed,
no doubt, the same inhammable materials IN
his sermon, or defamation, interlarded with
occasional adulatory compliments to their Ma
~jesties present.
But here it is not the Almighty that is wor-
shipped-it is the madonna, the Smother OF
God;" next in rank, Jesus Christ. But why
detain you on subjects Of superstition so dero-
gatory to true religion.
1t being lent, the daily pastimes of these
triAing people are a good deal lcssened'-
However, have seen enough of Neapolitan no
nor, to think with Goldsmith, ''that the COM
pany of fools may at first make US laugh, but
never fails IN tne Gnu W hhahS
The King is a plain, heavy looking man'
slumbered during thu fiery sermon The
Queens short and fat, plain enough in coun-
t~enance. Neither bespeak majestyi the young
Princes are good looking lads.
Ihave visited the Tomb of VirgiL have
since made an excursion to Pompeia. The
ruins of this Roman city, overwhelmed by e.
~ruptions from Mount Vesuvius, and laid open
by excavations, now stands exposed to view,
at least a considerable part of it. There are
perfect streets paved with lava, worn into ruts
by the wheels of the ancient carriages. On
each side are footways-houses and shops in
uninterrupted succession; the walls OF many
of them yet ornamented with paintings, IN
~stucco, which, after a lapse ofupwards otl7oo
wears, exhibit a freshness most surprising. On
the walls of a temple to Venus, remarked
some figures in fresco, that at a distance,
seemed almost to step. But the principal part
ofthese paintings have, by an operation, been
taken from the walls and removed to the mu-
seum of Portice, built on the ruins OF Hcrcu-
laneum, where they are exposed to view; but
which, at present, l shall decline attempting
to describe, although the examination afford
ed me much qualification. They are consider
ed inestimable.
At Pompeia are yet to be seen, in a most
dilspidated state truly, the Pantheon, the
Forum, temples to various deities, the i'm
mense amphitheatre, on the arena OF which
eladiators or condemned criminals combatted
with wild beasts; the places ofconfnement for
each are vet evident, opening into the Circus;
at the view and recollection, l felt an involun-
tary shuddering come over me.
We entered the house Of Sallust the histo-
rian-were shown the vapour and other baths
and were conducted through subterraneous
vaults, where large jars, supposed for con-
tanning wines, were filled with ashes and en-
crusted with the sides of the vaults and each
| other.
On leaving the gate of Pompeia-for we en-
tered at one and traversed this excayated City
we found ourselves among the tombs, and
beheld the urns therein that received the ash
es ofthe dead. We were shown one as thai OF
! Cicero, but l rather doubted the correctness
| of our Cicerone. descended into the ruIns
| of Herculaeneum with a guide and torches
The theatre must have been Of an immense
size, for the orchestra is ITO feet wide-more
than that ofthe Grand Opera House (st Car
los) here. Great part Of the excavations have
been filed up to support the town of Portice'
which, as just mentioned, is built on the lava
which engulphed H%ercuhneum, and which lay
hidden and unknown for ages; at!ast discover
ed in perforating the lava, to sink a web.
Some of the finest pieces ofsculpture have
been transported from the ruins of these an
Gent cities to the N~eapoItan Museum, which
form a most superb collection of antiques,
statues, equestrian and pedestrian, in marble
and in bronze, and busts Of the most exquisite
| w0rkmanship. Amongst them IS Herculs'