Massachusetts spy and Worcester advertiser. [volume] ([Worcester, Mass.]) 1823-1825, 1825-02-02
From the European Review.1
PRINCIPLES OF FEMALE COSTUME.
CONTINUED FROM OUR LAST.


Having spoken of the forms of dress,
let us consider its colors. There is GER
tainly nothing which contributes more
TO the appearance of an elegant female,
than the taste displayed in the choice of
the colors of her dress. With taste in
dress, we readily associate the idea of a
cultivated mind.
In the composition of colors for dress,
there ought TO be one predominating color,
to which the rest should be subordinate.
AS painters
"Permit not two conspicuous lights to shine
With rival radiance in the same design:''
so IN dress, one half Of the body should
neOer be distinguished by one color, all
the other by another. Whatever divides
the attention, diminishes the beauty of
the object; and though each part taken
separately may appear beautiful, yet, as
a whole, the effect is destroyed.
Were each particular limb differently
lcolored, the effect would be ridiculous.
!" 1t is this way" observes Mr.. Allison.
"that mounteban are dressed; and il
never fails to produce the effect that is
intended by it, to excite the mirth and
ridicule of the common people,"
The subordinate colors should bear
corresponding relation to the predomi.
mating one and they should be in har
mony with each other.
Predominsting colors are best reliev-
ed by contrast; but the contrast should
not be so strong as to equal the color it
is intended to relieve, for it then be-
comes opposition, which should always
be avoided. Contrast, skilfully arrang-
ed, gives force and lustre to the color
relieved, while opposition destroys its
effect
The choice Of the predominat;ing color
ooW be lmd'cated chiefly by the complex
ion of the wearer.
When it is the defect Of a face to con-
tain too much yellow, then yellow a.
round the face removes by contrast,
and causes the red and blue to predomi-
nate.
When it is the fault of the face to
contain too much red, then red around
the face removes it by contrast, and
causes the yellow and blue 10 pre- domi-
nate.
When il is the fault of the face 10
contain too much blue, then blue around
the face removes it by contrast, and
causes the yellow and red to predomi-
nate.
When it is the fault of face to con-
tain too much yellow and red, then or
ange is to be used.
When it is the fault of face to con-
tain too much red and blue, then purple
is to be used.
When it is the fault of face to con-
tain too much blue and yellow, then
green is to be used.
The reason why dark faces are best
affected by darker coIors, is evidently
because they tend to render the com
plexlon fairer and the reason why fair
faces do not require dark colors is, be-
cause the opposition would be too strong
they are already sufficiently fair, and
do not need to be blanched.
1t may be supposed, that dark yellow
would by contrast act best on fair rud-
dy face having yellow tint; but a little
consideration will shew, that while the
yellow in the dark yellow tends to over
come the yellow in the countenance.
and the black in the dark yellow tends
oppositely not only to whiten the face,
but to bring up the yellow by contrast,
thus having a mixed and opposite eff
| feet.
All the white race are distinguished
by sanguine hue the Negro has none
Hence the compatibility of white, aud
the incompatibility of black. with the
rudy face, is indicated. Indeed it can.
not be otherwise-red may appear OH
white-it cannot on black.
Black accordingly is never a suitable
costume where there is red in the
face and the less so, the stronger the
red.
On this subject there is a difference
IN the sexes. Black is less Objectionable
for a dark and ruddy, than for a fair and
rudy complexion in the male; but il is
more Objectionable for dark and ruddy,
than for fair and ruddy complexion in
the female.
We may now consider the texture of
dress.
Fineness and thinness are of course
generally preferable TO their reverse.
Their rougbness or smoothness adj
mits of some observation. 10 general,
fine surfaces which are somewhat rough
form good contrast with the smooth
ness Of the skin, as velvet, Grape, lace,
sc.
The opacity or transparency of ma
terials also deserves consideration. With
regard to the figure in general, an O.
| y.