Massachusetts spy and Worcester advertiser. [volume] ([Worcester, Mass.]) 1823-1825, 1825-01-26
From the European Review. !

From the European Review
PRINCIPLES OF FEMALE COSTUME.
|. The first principle of costume is
that loose drapery, which adjusts itself
partly by hanging and partly by wrap
ping around the figure, is preferable to
the tighter dress, which is chiefly ad-
justed by its make and form.
There are two reasons of this superb
GRITTY:
LIST. A loose drapery is always cooler
in summer, warmer in winter. and at
both seasons less adapted to transmit
sudden changes of temperature than
light dress.--This reason regards utility.
2dly. A loose drapery may always be
disposed either beautifully or grandly !;
a tight dress is always ugly, and gene
rally ridiculous.--This reason regards
expression.
II. Another principle of costume is,
that as all objects, when enlarged above
and diminished inferiorly, have, like the
inverted pyramid. an air of lightness,
and that of heaviness when oppositely
constructed-so the human figure, when
enlarged above and diminished inferior
ly by the mode of costume, has the ap-
pearance of lightness and that of heav-
mess when differently dressed.
Hence, as already observed, the small
head. dress and enormous train charac-
terize the more stately dame, while the
large hat or bonnet, and shorter dress,
distinguish the livelier girl.
In entering upon critical examination
of female costume, especially of that OF
the present day, it oughtto be observed,
that it acquired its character soon after
the beginning ofthe French Revolution,
when the imitation of the Grecian mod
els assumed great popularity. 1t was
then that the former stiff and awkward
dress was laid aside for one of superior
ease and gracefulness, and more conso-
nant to nature. In its general charac-
teristics that dress has continued till the
present time; and the chief point in
which it has. at any period, varied, has
been the elevation or depression of the
waist. 1t has occasionally been high,
low, or intermediary placed; and it is
evident that the intermediate place is
alone either natural or becoming.
The investments of the whole figure
which are most commonly used are
shawls or scarfs.
The shawl is adapted only for tall and
thin figures; but it admits of no very
fine effects even for them, while it is ru-
inous to shorter and en- bon point figures,
however beautifully formed.
The scarf is better adapted to all fig
ures it corresponds exactly to the pep
lum of the ancient Grecian women, and
it admits of the same expressive arrange
ments.
A person having an oval face may
wear bonnet with wide front, expos
ing the lower part of the cheeks. One
having a round face should wear a closer
front; and if the jaw is wide, it may in
appearance be diminished by bringing
the corners of the bonnet sloping to the
point of the chin.
The Scottish bonnet seems to suit
youth alone. Ifa mixture of archness
and innocence do not blend in the coun-
tenance which wears it, it gives the
atrical and bold air.
Hats always give a masculine look !;
and those turned up before give a pert
air.
A long neck may have the neck of the
bonnet descending, the neck of the dress
rising, and filling more or less Of the in
termediate space.--A short neck should
have the whole bonnet short and close
in the perpendicular direction, and the
neck of the dress neither high nor
wide.
Persons with narrow shoulders should
have the shoulders or epaulettes of the
dress formed on the outer edge of the
natural shoulders very full, and both the
bosom and back of the dress running in
oblique folds from the point of the Shout.
der TO the middle of the bust,