Phenix gazette. [volume] (Alexandria [D.C.]) 1825-1833, 1825-09-22


of St. Paul's, in London. When a persol
stands on one side, and speaks in whisper
applying his mouth to the wall, the other il
the opposite direction, applying his ear, hear
distinctly every word pronounced, which i
quite insudible to one standing in the inter
mediate space. crossed the bay, and enter
ed the vapour baths Of Nero, perforated thro
a rock, following the example Of my guide il
partly undressing; and, lighted by his torches
we reached the bath, into which he dropped
an egg, which was Immediately cooked, for
eat it when we got back, under as profuse q
perspiration as ever underwent The ruins
of palace of Nero, very indistinct indeed,
were pointed out; also one of Julias Caesar,
and the tomb of Agrippina, in the same state.
The Reservoir for containing water for the
Roman feet is, even in its ruins, stupen-
dous remain. 1t is stated to have been erect
ed by Nero; if so, it was one act of utility; but
his more natural character is developed, not
far distant from thence, where was conduct
ed into the subterraneous prisons of "Nero. :"
By the light Of torches, we could yet distin'
guish on the walls, marks made by the misera-
BILE objects of that .wretch's cruelty. The
port of Julias Crsarfor the Roman feet is yet
pointed out, and the ruins ofa temple to Her
cules. Ibeheld the "Eiysian fields, covered
nop with vineyards. And now, my dear
friend, hat being the last point the ancients
looked to, let me quit this classic ground, en-
bark in the boat and cross the bay for Puzzuo-
10, on my return to Naples, after most graft
fying, yet fatiguing tour. The ruins OF
bridge of Caligula, which crossed this bay,
at least the remains of thirteen abutments, are
yet to be seen, showing most astonishing ad-
heson in these masses-but the Roman ce-
ment is unknown to the modcns.
Before quit Naples, let me observe that
that class, called the Lazzaroni, formerly esti-
mated at 40, 900, are much diminished The
French first operated this change BY their RI
g;d police-and certainly thev did benefit
both Italy and Spain, under Napoleon's rule;
but the latter, under the Bourbons, acted on
by the Holy Alliance, is now in most degrad-
ed state. The kingdom of Naples is, in fact,
but province of Austria: all the posts in the
city are garrisoned by Austrian troops, which
amount there, foot and cavalry 10 5000 men;
in the kingdom, l. was told, there were up
wards of $4,000. With the decrease of the
I.szzaicni, and more efficient police, assas-
,lnations are but little heard of now.
Naples is famous for artists in coral. Ipur-
chased few ornaments Of that kind, for you,
which hope will please. The road to Rome
from Naples is very fine; indeed there is no
better in Europe; for it exceeds that from
Gath to Lohdon, at least in breadth, and that
- considered the best road in England. ltruns
through fine and rich country, covered with
vineyards, olives and interspersed with wheat,
vegetables, &C.; the largest and finest caul-
acwers ever saw, are most abundant, and
many are of deep purple colour. The Inns
wretched: we dined, rather breakfasted, a.
bout IL o'clock-having departed before s.
at Capua, where the Roman historian tells US,
Hannibal's veteran legions became enervated
by its luxury. Little danger is to be appre-
hended, in that respect, from modern Capua.
The second days journey leads through the
defile of mountain, for considerable way,
the very look of which puts one in mind OF
Mrs Radcliffe's "Condotteri, in the castle OF
Udolpho." The carriage was escorted to-
wards the summit by few militia, who had
more the appearance Of banditti than OF regu-
lar troops-but there was no danger, as de-
tachments of Austrian troops are stationed
very near to each other, on the whole route,
which are perfect protection. The ruins OF
Villa of Cicero's was pointed out at Mola de
Geta, where we breakfasted-it is washed
now by the sea. 1t must have been most
delightful residence, being at the bottom
Of bay, and offering very beauuful pros
pect of the sea, as well as picturesque views
by land.
On entering the Pope's territories the road
runs along the coast, with tremendous rocks
on the other side. The country becomes
much less populated and but little cultivated
owing partly to the Pontine Marshes, but more
to the Incidence, rather grovelling lazlness Of
the inhabitants ola bigotted country. When
he leaves Albano, few leagues from Rome
the traveller becomes interested with the
view of ancient ruins, as he approaches the
former mistress of the world. l shall not at
tempt description, but merely mention the
aoueducts which led to the baths of Calgula,
AZ I was told. And now, l have conducted
YOU into this ancient capitalists modern
nurse of superstition.
The first, and probably the grandest ruin ex
istipg. that meets the eye after entering, is the
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