Constitutional Whig. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1824-1832, 1824-12-17

From lie European Repie,c, No. 3.
PRINCIPLES OF FEMALE COSTUME


l. The frs, principle of costume is, tina, loose
draefy, which adjusts itself partly by hanging and
partly by wrapping around the figure, is preferable
TO HE tighter dress, which is chiefly adjusted ~ its
aIdkca and form.
There two reasons for this superiority:-1s t.
Aloose drapery is always cooler i'll summer, warm
er in winter, and at both seasons less adapted TO
transmit sudden changes oftempcrature than a tight
d1ess. This reason regards utility:-2dly, A loose
dEapery nay always be disposed either beautifully
or grandiy; tight dress is always ugly, and gene
rally ridiculous. This reason regards expression
AZ. Another principle of costume is, that as al!
objects wien enlarged above and diminished in
feriorily, have like the inverted pyramid. an Dir
OF lighness, and that of heaviness when oppositcv
constructed-so the human figure, when enlarged
above and diminished infrrioriy by the mode of
costume, mas the appearance of Gghtness; and that
OF heaviness when differently dressed. Hence as
already observed, the small head-dross and enor-
frDus tram characterize the stately danes,
while the large hat bonnet, aud shorter dress
distinguish the lively girl. IN entering upon cri-
tical examination of female costume and esreci-
ally that of the present. day, it ought be obscrv-
adj that il acquired its Generel character soon a:tcr
the beginning of the French revolution, when the
Nnitation of the Grccan models assumed great mo-
pulariiy II was then the former stiff and awkward
dress was LAID aside for one of superior ease and
graccfainess, and more consonant 70 nature In its
general that dress has continued ,l
the pfesen; time, and the chiefpoin, in which it has
at any period varied, has been the elc va ton or de-
preston of the waist. IL has occasionally been
high low. iutcrGIedately placed aid il IS evj.
dent that the Intermediate place alone either ma
tural or becoming. 1he investments Of the whole
figure which most commonly used, are shayyls
o scars. The shawl Is adapted only for tall and
chin figures; but it admits Of very fine effects
for then while IL is ruinous to shorter AID en-
Son-poin; figures, however beautifully formed,
The scarf is better adaped for ali figures; il cor
5espJnd; exactly to- the pebluIn Of the aucirut Gre
clan women and it admits Of tie same expressive
Arrangements. person, having oval face, may
wear bonnet with wide front, cx posing the lower
pat OF the cheeks. Ono having Il round face
should closer front; and, i! the Jaw is wide
II may in appearance be diminished, bv bringing
the of the bonnet slopng to the point Il the
chin. The Scottish bonnet seems to- stIit youth
alone; If u mixture Of afchness and of innocence
do not blend III the rountcuarce il gives theatri-
cal nd bold air. Hats always sivc d nasculine
look, ant those TUNED up before give pert air
long neck may have the neck Of the bonnet de-
scending, tho neck 81 the dress rising, and filing
more or less nf ~" intermediate space. a short
neck should 'vr the whole bonnet short and close
IN the perDeniicular direction, and the neck oC the
dress neither h-si vide. with narrow,
shouldei should have thr -hnuii.rs o. capabilities
of the r. formed or he outer edge 81 the natt,-
raj Should ,cry full, and Roth the bosom aud back
nj the dies; summing in obli'Ic fold. from the roint
NJ the sH,ulder to the middle OF the bUsi. Persons
with waists too lrcgc mag cndc- taasn less before
with sto nactrr. ant behind by a corresponding
form of the dress. . the top Of the dress smooth
across thr shout. =, and jyav ug IL ~ plaifs 70
narrow point At the brfotp of the waist. Those
rho have IN. hnsdp1 ton snail may enlarge IL b.
me Obiqr fots W the esy jue gathered abuvr,
&c. Tall vn;nen my have a wide skirt. or several
founCes, both of these: shorter women a more
moderate one, but - long can We convcnicaflv
Wo Il. with 'He louucc>. g.. - low IA possible.
Tight noes always .ls. ,nn feet look lareG, aud
W. @ocE'ss peeHiaTy t'u1psy HSving ss1ton of