The Portland gazette. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1818-1824, 1823-07-01
MISCELLANY.
FdsHIoM.

curing to the times of our ancestors and " auld |
lang syne," il is amusing to observe the revolu-
tons IN the gay world in this important particu-
lar
During the cessation of intercourse between |
France and England, from the rupture of the |
peace of Amiens to the restoration of the Bour- |
bons, the English and French nations, rivals in !
fashion as well as in war and politics. had but {
few opportunities TO reciprocate the improve |
ments which were daily made in the toilette |
and with the exception of few adventurous A. |
merIcans who found means to evade the cont
MENTAL system of Bonaparte, and penetrate in
TO France, and afterwards to escape from the
continent to England, the exchange of fashions
was much prohibited as that of Claret. Cham
payne and lace against sugar, cotton and coffee
and each nation confined to its own ideas, had
an appearance as different in theexterior of their
persons as in the idioms of their language.
When peace took place, and the citizens Of
one country visited the other, they were mutu-
ally astonished at the difference of appearance,
which was sometimes highly grotesqne. The
French prints of the English 10 Paris, which APP
peared to the Engishmen nothing more than
close copy of nature and fashion, were to tbs
Frenchmen the extreme Of caricature.
The long narrow waists, projecting front, and
prominent rear of the English ladies, with tre-
mendous hats and bonnets, parasos, high laced
Shoes and halfboots, excited the visibility of the
French petit Dsditresse, who sauntered In the al
ices Of the Tuleries in her neatly embroidered
robe ofnuslin or mef'inos, pendant in graceful
folds from the swell of the breast, and Negligent
" covered with the schuI des Cache1aire. Her
well turned ANGLE bien chaussee, with an ombrod-
cred silk stocking and shoes Of prunella while
the severe John Bull, with long waist and tail
1.
hat, long wastcoat, short smalls, and long cloth
CATERS looked with contempt ON the fantastica
French fop with his oval hat Ia boteau, his coat
tail reaching but half down TO his knees, short
waistcoat and wide pantaloons, fitted by him,
humming an opera air or calling for a glass of
water and a tooth pick at IortoaiS.
More frequent intercourse produced imitation
and insensibly the fashions acquired similarity.
Excess Of ridicue was abolished and the first
inquiries of persons of sense who visited Paris,
were for the marchdnde des modes and the tailor
The Frenchman added length to lis coat, while
the Englishman curtailed his, TO a convenient
dimension. Cloth CATERS were found useless in
the dry climate of France. Wide pantaloons
and boots answered very well in England. The
waists of the ladies were heightened on one side
of the channel and shortened on the other and an
advantageous uniformity of taste became appar-
fashions BY the ladies, has been more complete
and of longer duration than with men, and in our
happy country they have shown & distinguished
taste by adopting without prejudice or partality,
what is most elegant and appropriate in the fash
ions of other countries, and they may be con-
sidered the most generally well dressed Of any
ladies in the world. The finely wove straw hat
fir m Italy, the elegant shawl from france, the
India silk, China grapes embroidered muslin
robes with neat cbaussure, form an habiliment
which is extremely appropriate, but which will
no doubt in the course of things be varied aud in
all probability a change will be for the worse.
Already we see an upcouth kind of covering for
the head, which under the name Of Calash, dis
figures beauty and leaves no chance for medioc-
rity. Ii may he useful at times, but like many
other useful things it should only be seen in its
proper place.
Oui gentlemen shew less taste than the ladies',
and would apparently render the most incoD-
venient fashions the most durable. II is reason
able to suppose that hat is intended to shelter
the head and face from the rays of the sun, and
should have large briln bat the fashion is to
have greyish hat, with a border so small, that
should the wearer be exposed, the action Of the
sun upon his nose is almost sure TO enrich it
with brilliancy like that of the most orient ru-
b,es The coat like that of the citizens of the
French empire, has become more an object of
ornament than use, and fashionable tailor will
gravely recommend that pockets should be dis
penspd with, in order 10 preserve the symmetry
of shape. A heavy surtout, or what is called
frock coat, is worn at all hours of the dav, and
what in Europe is considered the extreme Of
negtige, is fashionably introduced at dinner and
evening parties, and is scarcely kept from the
ball room. Pantaloons must be full, and gath
cred round the waist like the plaits in the petit
coats of Swiss peasant girl and now, in warm
weather, they are made of sai-cIoth, bagging,
sheeting, ticking, or other linen or hempen stuff,
which under the name of drillings has become
fashionable and when the gentle east wind
blows cold at midday, dandies will strut a
bout with cheerful countenance, though their
limbs be chilled as ice, sooner than resort to
that elegant, comfortable, but Questionable stuff
called nankeen.
The demi-savages called Cossacks were the
poorest and dirtest among the barbarians who
entered France after the downfall of Bonaparte.
The singularity of their appearance excited at
teDtion. Their pantaloons, if that part Of their
dress NAV be so called, were made by simply
sewing two pieces of cloth together, and turning
down the upper edge SO as TO pass sting
through, which being drawn tight answered all
the purposes of waistband, buttons. suspenders,
drop, sc. This dress was adopted by the young
shopkeepers in Paris, and made great figure
in the famous caba of the cdlicoes, of which
humorous mention is made by Moore 10 bis
letters iron the Fudge family. After the eva
cuation of France by the allies this style was
initiated in England, from whence it has been
Imported here, and six years after il has been
booted from the continent as ridiculous imita-