The Portland gazette. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1818-1824, 1823-08-19

most of the way, the road lies on the bank Of the
river the scenery has much variety and Is GER
tainly picturesque the river, the valley, thro'
which il courses, and the far Oft hills which swell
from the valley possess the charterstics "a beau
tv and sublimity. But notwithstanding ali these
charming objects to occupy the mind, confess
that was not insensible TO the operations Of that
busy member, which demands 50 much Of our at
tentlon and is the subject Of 50 many ingenious
devices-in short, | began TO be hungry. How
delightful 10 the hungry traveller ~ the con-
temptation Of a tavern the bosom sWells in rap
ture with the idea of noble siroin rearing IT.
self from the table with picturesque irregulari-
ty. while the other dishes spread around. pleas
ing meters to the most Indifferent appetite and
a solace to that which needs no Indictment 1
never have met any person however romantic be
NAV have imagined himselfto be, but would rein-
uush the out door beauties, the rill, the lawn
and the mountain for the more home felt charms
of well provided table am lover Of nature
bat not SO preiudiced an one, as to believe that
il may not be improved by art. A flock ofSheep
and the lowing herd are very romantic additions
to a landscape; but there are few, think, who
would not turn with pleasure from this prospect
to the board on which smoked the saVouTy lee Of
mutton or the juicy rump Of beet.
Full Of such thoughts, Whichgale q new slim
illus to appetite, pressed on TO the tavern, where
| in some measure, expected to realize my fond
antcipations but Judge, We Gouqmands. Of my
disappointment, when on entering the kitchen,
found the fire covered up and not only no din
Der, but not even any preparations for ~; heaT-
en- defend ale from srnokeIess chimney and an
empty arder! The people had not long returned
from church, and it was their custom, as learn
ed to have no meal at noon on Sunday. was
under the necessity therefore of cooling my i'm
agination with an entirely different repast from
what it had spread for ITSELF and which half an
hour afterwards | suppose was equally as good as
the most dainty viands. These disappOintments
however you will always be exposed to in the
country, if you cherish any exalted expectations
on this subject
From Bethel, | entered on the direct route,
which passes through Gilead, Shelburne, &C.
to Lancaster on the Connecticut river and i'm
medately at the northern base Of the White
Mountains The ride this afternoon was ex-
tremely interesting the road following the riY-
er, was level and very good and there was spread
around it scenery which possesses peculiar fas-
cinations for the lovers Of the simple beauties Of
nature. On each side of the Androscoggin, the
hills reared their lofty and craggy heads, occa-
slonally bare but generally covered with forest
trees, while the river at my feet was gliding,
sometimes slowly and silently past its shady
banks, and at others, murmuring hoarsely over
its shallow and rocky bed
Giead is six miles from Bethel, and lies on
both banks of the AndroScoggin. Near the
western line of the town, | forded WiId RiUer,
which is Justly so named, FOR as ii rises in the
neghbouring hills, it is in the wet season tor
rent dashing over precipices and rocks sweeping
all before it, and during the remainder Of the
year,t steals its way along without much fretful-
ness to the great river, as i is here called. There
were here the ruins Of bridge which recent
fresh had overwhelmed; il is said to be a diff
cult task to make one stand in this place. Shell
burne is adjacent to Gilead and is on the other
side of the line which divides New Hampshire
from Maine. Crossing into another states. to-
tally different from similar act in the old coun-
tries; here are no conflicting interests no differ
emf form or spirit of government, no passports,
barriers nor delays but one people under similar
but distinct governments, with similar habits.
feelings and pursuits.
was now about to bid adieu to the Andres
coggin by whose silver stream had rode to-day
more than 80 miles. 1t enters Shelburne on a
south course from Lake Umbagog the source Of
its main branch, when it suddenly turns to the
left running nearly east. The road as far it
continued on the banks of the river was excel
lent better than it is in the vicinity Of this town,
but as you leave Shelburne, it has been neglect
ed and is ia a miserable situation. When I
reached the tavern, where | was recon-
mended to spend the night, | had two much
good day light before me to think Of reposing
and notwithstanding there was no other tavern
for fifteen miles, determined to run for luck
and trust to the refuge Of some farm
house. My confidence was not deceived, for at
ter riding about five miles farther, came to
small farm house where accomplished the two
fold object of being in full sight of the noun
talns, and finding good Accommodations for the
night. At Leary's the name of " mine host"
was eight miles north east of the White Noun
tains, not indeed of mount Washington, which
in this position was concealed from view, but Of
the two northeasterly peaks, which in the alb
sence of the father of hills, were objects of adj
miration. My kind hostess cheerfully produced
the best fare in her house, to which did ample
justice, and the more so, that had been stinted
OF my dinner and soon after committed mys elf
TO sleep, which came to me even in this rude
place, more kindly than to him il palace, who
voos i i with all the means and appliances Of
king"