Appetizing store

Anappetizing store, typically in reference toJewish cuisinein New York City, particularlyAshkenazi Jewish cuisine, is a store that sells "food that generally goes withbagels", although appetizings can also be served with a variety of breads. Appetizings include smoked and pickled fish and fish spreads, pickled vegetables, cream cheese spreads and other cheeses.
Most appetizing stores were opened in the later 1800s and the early 1900s. In 1930, there were 500 such stores in New York City; by 2015 there were fewer than ten. The concept started to experience a revitalization in the 2010s with the opening of new stores in Toronto, Philadelphia, and Brooklyn.
The word "appetizing" is sometimes shortened to "appy" and is used both for the stores and the foods they sell.The term is used typically amongAmerican Jews, especially those in theNew York Cityarea in neighborhoods with traditionally large Jewish populations.Saveurtraced the term back to food similar to "the cold appetizers that would have started a meal back home in Eastern Europe",although scholarsHasia Diner,Eve JochnowitzandNorma Josephsay the foods were American foods and others, such as lox, that would have been new to immigrants from Eastern Europe.
TheNew York Timesclaimed in 2004 that the term was not used outside of New York City,but as of 2014 this was no longer true, with Toronto's Schmaltz Appetizing a notable example.While Schmaltz Appetitizing is the only restaurant in Toronto to use the term in its name, it is not the only such establishment; United Bakers Dairy Restaurantis a venerable and longstanding institution, predating Schmaltz by decades – United Bakers celebrated its hundredth anniversary in 2012,while Schmaltz opened its doors in 2014.
The stores sell food thatThrillistdescribes as "food that generally goes withbagels", althoughMilton GlaserandJerome Snyderwrote that appetizings might be served with a variety of breads and rolls, includingbialys,challah,corn rye bread,Jewish rye,onion rolls,Russian health bread, andseeded hard rolls.The Village Voicedescribed appetizing as "the many pickled, smoked, cured, and cultured edibles served alongside bagels and bialys".
Appetizing includes both dairy and "parve" (neither dairy nor meat) food items such aslox(traditionally, salt cured salmon),nova(cold smokedsalmon),sable,whitefish,cream cheesespreads, pickled vegetables, along with candies, nuts, and dried fruit.According to a 1968New York Magazinearticle, the foods are typically served for Sunday brunch.Jewishkashrutdietary lawsspecify that meat and dairy products cannot be eaten together or sold in the same places.
The stores are different from delicatessens in that an appetizing store is a place that sells fish and dairy products but no meat, whereas akosher delicatessensells meats but no dairy.Thrillist called them "the deli's other half".
In 1930, there were 500 appetizing stores in New York City, and a similar number in 1950.The majority were opened in the late 1800s and early 1900s.In the 1950s and 1960s, the stores started to close as the owners' children pursued other careers and supermarkets started carrying Jewish specialties.By 2015, there were fewer than 10 remaining.Shelsky'sinCobble Hillwas the first appetizing store to open in Brooklyn in 60 years when it opened in 2011.In 2014, an appetizing store opened in Toronto.In 2021, a shop modeled on the concept opened in Philadelphia.