Emilian cuisine

Emilian cuisineconsists of the cooking traditions and practices of the Italian region ofEmilia. As in most regions of Italy, more than a cuisine, it is a constellation of cuisines that, in Emilia, represents the result of nearly eight centuries of autonomy of the Emilian cities, from the time of the municipalities to theunification of Italy.
The divergence of historical paths between thepopes-dominated Emiliaand the duchies' one had consequences that are also felt in the culinary and gastronomic fields. While contrasts prevail over similarities between Romagna's cuisine, incorporated for nearly four hundred years into the Papal States, and that of Emilia, the cuisines of the different Emilian cities form a picture that, although highly varied, nonetheless presents significant common traits. The cuisine ofPiacenzais somewhat of an exception, characterized by influences fromLombard cuisineas well as fromLigurian cuisine, and that ofFerrara, due to its eccentric position, has developed and preserved distinctly unique features.
Precisely because it was governed by powerful noble families, at whose courts the most celebrated chefs worked, Emilia has great gastronomic traditions. Throughout theRenaissanceandBaroqueperiods, two culinary "schools" dominated the country: the Roman one at the papal court and, indeed, the Emilian one. In Ferrara, Giovan Battista Rossetti andCristoforo di Messisbugowere active; inParma, it seems, Vincenzo Cervio served; inBologna, Giulio Cesare Tirelli and Bartolomeo Stefani were at work. It is likely that the Emilian cuisine inherited from the 15th and 16th-century traditions the characteristics of opulence and extravagance for which Bologna is still calledla Grassa('the Fat').
The cornerstone of Emilian cuisine is itspastadishes, characterized by a dough made from soft wheat flour and eggs (without water). First and foremost are thetagliatelle, often served withBolognese sauce(ragù) or diced ham sautéed in butter. A variation is the green tagliatelle, in which the dough includeschard,spinach, or evennettles. With this green dough, alsolasagnais prepared, a rich dish with alternating layers of ragù,béchamel sauce, andParmesan cheese.Parma is the Emilian city with the oldest and most precise codification of pasta usage:Salimbene di Adammentions both filled and dry fresh pasta made with soft wheat flour and eggs. The fresh pasta dough (known asfojäda) is central to Parma's gastronomic identity, most notably seen in filled pastas, whether served in broth or dry, especially inanolini(which, inReggio Emilia, are also calledcappelletti) andtortelli.
Tortellini, a symbol of Bolognese and Modenese cuisine, belong to the large family of filled pastas made with varying ingredients, a tradition dating back to medieval cookbooks and widespread throughoutcentralandnorthernItaly. Traditionally served in meat broth, they are also enjoyed dry with various sauces. Among other filled pastas, one should mentiontortelloniofricottaand herbs, which are distinguished by their larger size compared to tortellini and by the inclusion of ricotta, Parmesan cheese, and parsley in the filling. InPiacenza,anoliniare found, while pumpkin tortelli, similar to those fromMantua, are common in Piacenza and Reggio Emilia; in Ferrara, these are calledcappellacci di zucca. In Ferrara, cappelletti are also found, which, unlike the Romagna version, contain a meat-based filling (batù). Also notable is theerbazzonefrom Reggio Emilia, a type of savory pie made with spinach and other vegetables, seasoned with Parmesan cheese, and baked in the oven.
As for main dishes, the primary ingredients are meat and dairy products. Thecotoletta alla bologneseis a rich variation of theveal Milanese, while another variation made with horse meat is the Piacenza'sfaldìa. The veal fillet (cooked in butter with ham, grated cheese, and truffle) is an example of Grande Cuisine interpreted in the Bolognese style. The Piacenza-style braised beef (stracotto), hearty and fragrant with spices, has illustrious ancestors and relatives scattered across the peninsula: more characteristic versions include those made with horse or donkey meat. Notable dishes includepìcula 'd cavall(a dish made with minced horse meat) and Piacenza’sstracotto d'asinina, a dish from a military city where horse meat was easily available, as well as the stuffed vegetables from the PiacenzaApenninesor the stuffed veal shoulder, which reveals a Ligurian influence. Along theRiver Po,eelis commonly consumed. The second most typical dish for festive occasions is the boiled meat cart, which includes various cuts of boiled beef and some pork sausages.
Emilia boasts a production of cured meats (salumi)that is unrivaled in terms of variety and quality.Mortadella Bologna, made from pork and beef, is a noble sausage with a superb flavor, unjustly underrated due to its modest price. Modena mortadella is made from pure pork. The hams from the Parma area achieve a remarkable balance of sweetness and flavor.Culatello, produced in the lower Parma region and made from the "heart" of the ham, is a royalsalume. InFelino, in the Parma area, a perfectly agedsalamiwith an intense flavor is produced. Another superbsalumefrom the area is the shoulder of San Secondo, available both in the more famous cooked version and the rarer raw version. Thezamponeandcotechinosausages from Modena and Bologna are very well known: both are served, steaming, in mixed boiled dishes from Bologna, Modena, and Reggio Emilia. The Ferrarasalama da sugo, very flavorful and highly spiced, is a fragment of Renaissance cuisine that has come down to us. Thecoppa piacentinais also very famous and renowned, as are the Piacenza'spancettaand salami. Also worth mentioning are the fresh and dryciccioli(fromZocca),cicciolata,coppa di testa, rolled pancetta and the Ferrarese salami with garlic.
Known worldwide and rightly called "the king of cheeses",Parmigiano Reggianois an essential ingredient in numerous traditional and modern dishes from Emilia and other regions, although its unparalleled fragrance is best appreciated—especially if it is very aged—when consumed on its own, in small shavings. In the province of Piacenza,Grana Padanoand Provolone Val Padana are produced. Less famous than Parmigiano but certainly worth mentioning arestracchino,casatella,caciottafromCastel San Pietro Termeand the sweetpecorinofrom the Bologna's hills.
Among the desserts, those with Renaissance origins stand out, rich in almonds, honey, and spices: thecertosino(orpanspeziale), thepanoneand Bologna's rice cake, thetorta BarozzifromVignola, thespongatafromBrescello,Busseto,Corniglio, Modena, Piacenza, and other areas, and thepanpepatofrom Ferrara. Alongside these, we must not forget some modest yet widespread popular sweets such asfrappe(orsfrappole),castagnole,ciambella(also known by various dialectal names such asbuslàn,bensone,belsoneorbrazadèla), and thebiscione reggianofrom Reggio Emilia.
In Emilia, the flatland areas do not offer a great variety ofwines.Lambrusco, in its dry, light, and sparkling version, pairs well with the rich and flavorful dishes typical of Emilian cuisine, providing the perfect contrast; in its sweet version, it is a dessert wine or a wine for conversation. The Lambrusco wines produced in the province of Modena include Lambrusco di Sorbara rosso, Salamino di Santa Croce, and Grasparossa di Castelvetro. In the province of Reggio Emilia, Lambrusco Reggiano is produced. In the hilly areas, notable wines are produced, such as Pignoletto from the Bolognesese hills, as well asMalvasia,Gutturnio,Ortrugo, and Bonarda from the Piacenza area. In theScandianoarea, Bianco di Scandiano is also produced, available in both dry and sweet versions.
The most prominent wines and liquors produced in Emilia region are: