Lūʻau (food)

Lūʻau,Luʻau,Laulau,Lū,Rourou,Rukau,Fāfā,Hāhā, andPalusamiare all related dishes found throughout Polynesia based on the use oftaroleaves as a primary ingredient. Whiletarogenerally is known as aroot vegetablefor its starchycorms, the leaves (and stems) are consumed as well. The base recipe is vegetarian. Most often, coconut milk was added, and later meat or seafood. The texture of the dish range from a thick soup to a dense cake.
Tarois one of the most ancient, cultivated crops. Believed to be native to India and Southeast Asia, taro were carried into thePacific IslandsbyAustronesian peoplesfrom around 1300 BC, where they became a staple crop ofPolynesians.Although associated as root vegetable, all parts of the taro was utilized.
In addition, they brought along with them pigs, chickens, andPolynesian dogsfor protein. When the Western navigators arrived, they introduced foods like onions, tomatoes, corned meats and various spices.Colonialism brought with them something that would change Polynesian diets—canned goods, including the highly prized corned beef. Natural disasters brought in food aid from New Zealand, Australia, and the US, then world wars in the mid-20th century, foreign foods became a bigger part of daily diets while retaining ancestral foods like taro and coconuts.
Building anearth ovenis very labor-intensive, often made for larger festivities or religious ceremonies.Sinceearthenwarewas not known throughout ancient Polynesia, stews were often steamed in calabash bowls or coconut shells but were not efficient conductors of heat.For daily consumption, it was easier to cook taro leaves into parcels for smaller ovens.Taro leaves containcalcium oxalate, which in its raw form can cause serious irritation to the mouth and throat if not cooked thoroughly.
In theCook Islands,rukaurefers to bothleafy greens(most oftenrukau dalo, the leaves of the taro plant) and the dishes they can be made into, both in stews, as a parcel, or baked in the oven like a casserole. Coconut milk is widely used along with fish, lamb, and corned beef inrukaudishes.Rukau viti(Abelmoschus manihot) is a popular alternative torukau dalo.
In a modern twist,rukauare used as a filling forravioliand also into pastries known as "rukau pies" in Auckland.
InFijian cuisine,rourou(orroro) is stew ofdalo(taro) leaves. Taro leaves (whole or shredded) are typically added to the stewing liquid of coconut milk withoutparboiling. Aromatics such as onions and garlic are commonly used as well as spices. Proteins include canned corned beef or tuna, fresh lamb. The stew is often served withcassava(boiled or fried intochips), or withrotiin a manner similar tosaagby way ofIndo-Fijians.
Another method involves stuffing fresh taro leaves with a meat filling that are tightly rolled (or made into balls) then stewed in pot in a manner similar todolmaorstuffed cabbage. These balls are sometimes referred to asrourouballsorwacipoki.When these balls are made into parcels, they are often calledpalusami, influenced by nearby Samoa. Anotherwacipokitechnique is forming them into patties with a mixture of chopped parboiled taro leaves, onions, and seasonings that are pan-fried, and simmered in a coconut milk sauce.Because of the rising prices of taro (and food in general),instant noodlesis sometimes mixed into thewacipokias a filler.
Poulet fāfāis a thick stew ofpoulet(French lit. "chicken") andfāfā(Tahitian transl. "taro greens or shoots"). Influenced byFrench cuisine, contemporary recipes often feature the chicken as the primary ingredient, while the taro leaves stewed in coconut milk acts as a sauce. Spinach is often substituted for taro leaves. Cubed chicken breasts are typical, but sometimes whole leg quarters are served. Onions are typically added, along with garlic or ginger.Bouillonorcurry powderis sometimes added as a seasoning. It is enjoyed with roasted taro, breadfruit, sweet potatoes, or rice.
Inlūʻaustew,lūʻaurefers to the young leaves of thekalo(taro) plant, though it generally means taro leaves as an ingredient. The leaves are parboiled, strained, chopped, and combined with the cooked (fresh) meat—octopus ("squid"), chicken, beef, or pork—that are sautéed with onions. For thicker stews containing "squid" or chicken, coconut milk and sugar are added. However, stews containing beef or pork usually omit the coconut milk and can be braised along the cooking of the taro leaves, seasoned withsalt,salt cod("butterfish"), or salted salmon. It is generally enjoyed with rice.
Laulau(lit. "leaf leaf") refers to theti leavesthat are traditionally used to wrap the food within it. Whole mature larger (and younger) taro leaves wrap around large cubes of pork shoulder or belly, beef, or chicken thighs. A piece of "butterfish" is traditionally added with the other meats as seasoning. A piece ofsweet potatois sometimes added. It is enjoyed withpoior rice. Unlike its Polynesian variations, this dish does not contain any coconut milk or aromatics like onions or garlic, or other spices. However, similar dishes like Samoanpalusamithat are made in Hawaii sometimes use the vernacularlaulauwhen speaking with a non-Samoan person.
Hā, the stems or stalk of the taro, is commonly added tolūʻauandlaulauas a filler. As a dish on its own, stems are peeled and sliced for a stew calledhāhā.It is seasoned with salt,dried shrimp, or "butterfish" or salt-cured salmon.Hāhācan be combined with pork or beef that is usually cooked separately from the stew. Generally, cooking the stems of the taro, by itself, takes the least amount of time because it contains the least amount of calcium oxalate. This dish does not contain coconut milk either.
Palusamiis believed to be a contraction of the phrase,  "paʻapaʻa  (luʻau) sami" ("to cook (taro leaves) with sea water on fire")" orpalu (luʻau) sami" ("mixed (taro leaves) with sea water").The dish is sometimes referred to asluʻau.
Palusami, and like much ofSamoan cuisine, is noted for its richness, orlolo(lit. "fatty")—rich foods that often contain a good amount of thickercoconut cream(not to be confused with sweetened "cream of coconut"). Beef, orpovi( lit. "bovine"), is the protein of choice in the form ofbrinedpovi masima(lit. "salted beef") or cannedpīsupo(lit. "pea soup," general term for canned foods).Palusamiis prepared by laying out a few taro leaves and spooning an amount of beef and onions into the center with a healthy amount of coconut cream and bundled withfoilthen steamed.
Lū taloare typically prepared in parcels, inTonga. Two popular versions arelū pulu(lit. "bull") refers to beef, andlū sipi(lit. "sheep") refers to mutton or lamb. Fresh meat can be used, corned (wet brine)masimaor canned meatskapaare typical. Horse meat,hoosi, is also a delicacy. Coconut cream is often mixed into the meat, especially with canned meats, to form a paste that easily dollops. Chopped onions are common additions, sometimes tomatoes.Lū moa(chicken) andlū ika(fish) are made as well. The parcels are traditionally wrapped with banana leaves but it is more common to usefoil.Kapisi puluis a similar variant usingkapisi(lit. "cabbage").
Newer technology has made it easier to reduce the cooking time of taro. Dishes can be cooked stovetop in a steamer or baked in an oven, or in pressure cookers and crock pots in temperature-controlled setting. Today, foods likelaulau,palusami, orlū pulu, foods which are typically made into bundles, sometimes bypass the tedious chore of wrapping by making a casserole-like dish in large quantities making it more akin to its stew counterpart.
In areas outside where taro leaves not sold or found, expatriates living abroad use in its placespinach,Swiss chard,collard greens,kaleor other leafy green vegetable. And wheretiorbanana leavescannot be found,aluminium foil,parchment paper, andcorn huskare used.
It is a favourite food of human rights activistMaluseu Doris Tulifau.