Assamese cuisine

Assamese cuisineis the cuisine of theIndian stateofAssam. It is a style of cooking that is a confluence of cooking habits of the hills that favourfermentationanddryingas forms of preservationand those from the plains that provide extremely wide variety of fresh vegetables and greens, and an abundance of fish and meat. Both are centred on the main ingredient — rice. It is a mixture of different indigenous styles with considerable regional variations and some external influences. The traditional way of cooking and the cuisine of Assam is very similar to South-East Asian countries such asThailand,Burma(Myanmar) and others. The cuisine is characterized by very little use of spices, little cooking over fire, and strong flavours due mainly to the use of endemic exotic fruits and vegetables that are either fresh, dried or fermented. Fish is widely used, and birds likeduck, pigeon,squab, etc. are very popular, which are often paired with a main vegetable or ingredient;beefused to be eaten before Britishcolonialism,and some continue to do so.Preparations are rarely elaborate. The practice ofbhuna, the gentle frying of spices before the addition of the main ingredients so common in Indian cooking, is absent in the cuisine of Assam.The preferred oil for cooking is the pungent mustard oil.
A traditional meal in Assam begins with akhar, a class of dishes named after the main ingredient. Another very common dish istenga, a sour dish. Traditionally, bothkharandtengaare not eaten together in the same meal, though it has become common lately. The food is usually served inbell metalutensils made by an indigenous community calledMariya.Tamul(betel nut, raw or fermented) andpaangenerally conclude the meal.
Though still obscure, this cuisine has seen wider notice in recent times.The discovery of this cuisine in the popular media continues, with the presenters yet to settle on the language and the specific distinctiveness to describe it.
Riceis the most important ingredient in this cuisine. The diversity of rice grown in the region has led to speculation that the grain was first domesticated in the Assam-Yunnanregion. Both theindicaas well as thejaponicavarieties are grown in Assam. The most popular class of rice is thejohaor scented rice. As a staple, rice is eaten either steam boiled (ukhua) or sundried (aaroi). Some very high quality rice varieties,Karaballamorkauribadametc., are available in Assam only.
Rice is eaten as a snack in many forms: roasted and ground (xandoh), boiled in its husk and flattened (chira), puffed (akhoi).Kumol saulis rice that is precooked, dried and then husked; it can be simply soaked in warm water and eaten as a light meal.
Rice is a part of all meals in Assam. A traditional breakfast consists ofchirawithyogurtandjaggery. Typically, farmers eat cooked rice soaked overnight (poita) simply accompanied with salt,mustard oil,onions, etc. Snacks arexandoh,kumol saulorboka saul, sticky rice or bora saul, which can be eaten with sweet or salty accompaniments. For other major meals, rice could be boiled, steamed, or wrapped in leaves and roasted. 'Sunga Saul' is a special preparation in which (sticky) rice (bora saul) is cooked in bamboo hollows called 'sunga'. 'Sewa diya Bhaat' is another preparation where sticky rice is steamed over boiling water. They are generally served with meat or fish. Sticky rice is also wrapped in leaves, usually plantain leaves ortora pat, and dropped into boiling water to prepare 'tupula bhat'.
A special class of rice preparations, calledpithasare generally made only on special occasions like theBihu. Made usually with soaked and ground glutinous rice (bora saul), they could be fried in oil with asesamefilling (xutuli pitha), roasted in young green bamboo over a slow fire (sunga pitha) or baked and rolled over a hot plate with a filling (kholasaporia pitha).
The next most important ingredient is fish, harvested from the many rivers, ponds and lakes in the region. The extremely wet climate and the large numbers of water bodies has ensured that large varieties of fresh water fish are available in abundance in the valley. It is a staple item in the Assamese palate. There is no traditional ethnic community in Assam that does not eat fish. Most traditional rural households have their own ponds forpisciculture. Some of the most popular big fishes are theBorali(freshwater dhark),rou, andcital(big),khoria(medium) (Chitala chitala),maagur,Xingi,borali,bhokuaorbahu,Xaal,Xol, etc. The small varieties of fish available and eaten in Assam likeputhi(swamp barb),Ari(long-whiskered catfish),Goroi(green snake head/  spotted snake head),KoiorKawoi(climbing perchAnabas testudineus),Kholihona(Indian paradise fishCtenops nobilis)borolia,mua,ceniputhi,tengera,lachin,bhangun,pabho, etc.The discerning gourmet can tell which region of Assam is known for which variety of fish.
Themas tenga(sour fish), which is commonly eaten by most communities of Assam, has lately turned into a signature dish of Assamese cuisine. The most popular souring agent for thetengaistomatoes, though ones made withkajinemujuice (thick skinned elongatedlemon) andthekera(driedmangosteen), Ou-tenga, Teteli,Kordoi Tenga(South-East Asian Starfruit),Tengamora(Roselle leaves) are also popular.
The most common way of eating fish in traditional Assamese homes is by preparing a stew with herbs, vegetables, and greens as per preference and availability. Fish is also prepared by roasting or char-grilling. A common favourite dish is a small fish roasted in banana leaves (paatotdia).Hukotiis a special fish dish prepared from dried small fish like (puthi maas) pounded with arum stem and dried and stored in bamboo tubes. Variations of this exist among the ethnic communities of northeast India in general and Assam in particular. Dried and fermented small fishputhy mas(Ticto barb), three to four in number, are roasted with lavish amounts of green chilis, tomatoes,gingerandgarlic(all roasted). The ingredients are then pounded in a mortar to make a coarse paste and served with rice. Fish eggs and innards are also cooked and consumed. Petu bhoja (fried fish intestines) is also considered a delicacy along with the traditional Assamese Jal, which is an herbal fish curry made with medicinal herbs like bhedailota (Chinese fever vine), noroxingho (curry leaves), bon dhunia, man dhunia, manimuni (Asiatic Pennywort), tengesi leaves, and more. It is known for its rich flavour and medicinal and antioxidant qualities.
The Assamese meat and fish dishes are characterized by a low amount of spices and oil, higher quantity of ginger, noroxinghow paat (curry leaves), Khorisa (fermented bamboo shoot) and lemon juice, and differ completely in taste from the dishes of neighboring Bengal and are quite similar to the cuisines of nearby South-East Asian and East Asian countries.Chicken,venison,squab,mutton,duckandporkis very popular among the indigenous ethnic Assamese communities likeSonowals,Bodo,Rabha,Keot (Kaibarta),Ahom, Moran,Sutiyaetc. Upper caste Assamese Hindus, such asAssamese Brahmins (including Ganaks)andKayasthas of Assam,Kalitasof Lower Assam refrain from pork consumption.Beefis occasionally consumed byAssamese Muslims, although they traditionally refrain from consuming pork. TheChristians, many indigenous Assamese communities, and thenon religioussections consume all types of meat.
The basic cooking methods include cooking, shallow and deep frying.Onla, of theBodos, is made with ground rice and specialherbsand constitutes a complete meal in itself. Other meats includesquab,duck,chicken,goat meat,venison, andturtlealthoughvenisonandturtlemeat are legally prohibited. The combination ofduck/white gourdandsquab/papayaorbanana floweris very popular. Meat is generally stewed using limited spices as well as a choice of herbs and vegetables.
Most communities of Assam are entomophagous. Various indigenous ethnic groups of certain areas partake of the silkworm, water bugs, grasshoppers, and other insects. Insects are fried or cooked or roasted in leaves and then prepared according to the timing of the meal. The redant eggs(amroli poruar tup) is considered a delicacy during theRongali Bihufestival.
The environs ofAssamare rich in vegetation, and green leafyvegetables, calledxaak, are an important part of the cuisine. Some of them are grown while others like thedhekia(fern) grows wild. There is a bewildering variety that is eaten and according to custom, one has to have 101 differentxaak(greens) duringRongali Bihu. Herbs, greens, and vegetables are commonly eaten by simply cooking in water and salt, lightly frying, as a thick soup or by adding to varieties of lentils. They are also prepared in combination with fish, meat and eggs.
Among spices there areginger,garlic,onion,cumin seed,black cumin,black pepper,chilli,turmeric,coriander seed,cinnamon,cardamom,clove,fenugreek seed,white mustardseed,aniseed,Malabar leaf, etc. Some herbs peculiar to Assam aremaan dhaniya,moran Ada,madhuhuleng,bhedai lota,manimuni,masundari,tengesi,thekera,kordoi,outenga,tengamora':etc. An Assamese meal is incomplete without green chilis, many varieties of which are available in the region. Assam is famous for thebhut jolokiaorghost pepper, which was recognized as the hottest chili in the world.Panch-furan(mixture of 5 spices) is used for adding flavour to Dail. Dail was not originally eaten by the indigenous people of Assam, but has slowly been adopted and adapted to local preferences due to external influences.
Although the modern cuisine of Assam has been influenced to a small extent by East and North Indian cuisine,Assamis still rich in traditional dishes which are similar to the cuisines of East Asian and South-East Asian nations.
The khar is a signature class of preparations made with a key ingredient, also called khar. The traditional ingredient is made by filtering water through the ashes of the sun-dried skin of a few varieties ofbanana, which is then calledkola khar(The name derived from the local term for banana, "kol" or "kola.") A traditional meal invariably begins with akhardish, which can be prepared with rawpapaya, mustard leaves, vegetables,pulses, fish or any other main ingredient.
Xôkôta is a severely bitter type of preparation. It is prepared with dryjuteleaf,urad beanandkhar. However, the combination ofkhar(alkaline) andtenga(acidic) is not recommended. The liquid khar is also simply eaten askharoliwith rice which is prepared by adding a few drops of mustard oil. Assamese people have a peculiar tradition of eating a large variety of bitter dishes, many of which are considered delicacies. Some dishes in this category include,fresh bamboo shoot, cooked or lightly fried,cane shoot,Neemleaves fried,titabhekuri,bitter gourd,Xukuta,Titaphool,Sewali Phooletc.
Themasor tengais a light and sourfishdish, another signature class of preparations. There are numerous ways of preparing the sour fish curry among Assamese people. The souring ingredient could bemangosteen,lemon,tomatoes,roselleleaves, Outenga, Manimuni, Tengesi, etc. Another important ingredient is kokum.Fish dishes made with fermentedbamboo shoot(khorisa) are generally sour, but they are not calledtenga. Fish is fried inmustard oilor stewed withbottle gourdorspinachor boiled simply. Anothertengadish is prepared withmatimah(urad bean) andoutenga(elephant apple).Bottle gourdcan be added to it.Tengamora(Roselle (plant)) ornoltenga(Indian chestnut vine) andlentilis a distincttengacurry.
Thenaroxingho masor julis another authentic dish from Assam.The fishes are cooked in a light gravy of curry leaves which is a common aromatic herb used in southern and some northern parts of India. The curry leaves are also known as noro-xingho paat in Assamese. The fish preparations in Assam emphasize on retaining the natural flavours of the fish, and hence, few spices are used.
Pura refers to various forms of grilled and roasted food. Vegetables, meat and fish are often served in this form. Aalu bengena pura pitika, pura maas pitika (mashed grilled fish), pura mankho etc. are a few of the popular dishes.
Poitabhatis a favourite dish inAssamduring the summer season. Cooked rice is soaked overnight and left to ferment. It is and served withmustard oil,onion,chili,pickles,pitika(mashes), etc. The 'poitabhat' preparation is sometimes made alcoholic according to preference.
Side dishes calledpitika - পিটিকা(mashes) is a signature characteristic of this cuisine. The most popular isaloo pitika - আলু পিটিকা(mashedpotatoes) garnished with rawonions,mustard oil, greenchilliesand sometimes boiled eggs.Khorisa tengais mashed fermentedbamboo shoot, sometimes pickled inmustard oilandspices.Kharoliis fermented mashed mustard (Brassica campestrisvar. toria) seed to which akharhas been added, andkahudito which an acidic agent (lemon juice, dried mangosteen) has been added.Pitikas are also made from roasted or steamed vegetables (tomatoesandeggplantsbeing very popular). Small fish,asiatic pennywort,matikaduri,tengamoraleaves,heartleaf,dôrôn(Leucus longifolia), etc. are roasted separately wrapped in banana leaves and mashed into 'pitika'.
Pickles are made ofmango,indian gooseberry,hog plum,Indian olive,Tamarind,star fruit,mangosteen,radish,carrot,elephant apple,Indian jujube,chili,lime,garlic, etc. Panitenga and kharoli are signature Assamese pickles made from ground mustard seeds.
Chutneyis made ofcoriander,spinach,tomato,heartleaf,curry leaf,chilli,lentil,chickpeaetc.Xukan masor(chutney made ofdried fish) is popular among the tribal communities.Saladis made ofcarrot,radish,tomato,cucumber,beetroot, etc.
'Bor' are fried balls of mashed lentil or gram — it is equivalent to vada in few other Indian languages. It may contain other green leafy vegetable locally called 'xaak' within it, and it is best while served with 'teteli' (tamarind) curry or dip. There is a huge variety of 'bora' preparations in Assamese cuisine. The base ingredients include greens, vegetables, fruits, flowers, skin, and shoots of various plants. 'Bora' can also be prepared from fish eggs etc.
Fritteris made of flower and tender leaves ofpumpkin, banana, tender leaves ofbottle gourd,eggplant, tender leaves ofnight-flowering jasmine, etc. It is a new style of cooking somewhat having external influences.
Some other preparations in Assamese cuisine includeKahudi,Panitenga,Khorikatdiya,Tenga sorsoriya,Posola, etc.
Liquor is an integral part of linguistically and culturally diverse communities in Assamaese society. Rice is a primary ingredient for the many rice beers (Nam-lao - নাম-লাও) or (Laopani/Xaaj) and liquors made in Assam by different ethnic communities:zou(Bodo),Aapong(Mishing),Rohi (ৰহি)andMod (মদ)(Sonowal Kachari),Chuje(Chutia),Nam-lao -নাম-লাও(Tai-Ahom),Haj(Tiwa),Hor(Karbi),Photika - ফটিকা(Kachari), etc.
Jolpan(snacks) inAssameseare often consideredbreakfastfoods, although they are not always served as breakfast in Assamese cuisine. They are eaten as light meals between main meals and widely served duringBihu,weddings, Assameseshraadhs or any other kind of special occasions and gatherings. Some types of jolpan areBora saul(varieties ofsticky rice),Komal Saul,Xandoh,Chira,Muri,Akhoi, Sunga saul, etc. eaten in combination with hot milk,curd,jaggery,yogurtor seasonal ripe fruits. These are probably some of the earliest forms of "cereals". Assamese people have been eating them mainly as breakfast for many centuries.
Pitha(rice cake) is a special class of rice preparation generally made only on occasions likeBhogali Bihuin Assam. Made usually with soaked and ground rice, they could be fried in oil, roasted over a slow fire or baked and rolled over a hot plate. Some pithas areTil Pitha,Ghila Pitha,Xutuli Pitha,Sunga Pitha,Bhapotdiya Pitha,Lakhimi Pitha,Tora Pitha,Tekeli Pitha,Deksi Pitha,Muthiya Pitha,Kholasapori Pitha, etc.
It is made in other areas of East and South-East Asia and has similarities with them rather than any Mainland Indian cuisine form etc.
Larus aresweet ballsthat are associated with traditional Assamese food:Laskara, narikolor laru,tilor laruare often seen in Assamese cuisine.
Tea(SaahinAssamese) is an indispensable part of Assamese cuisine. It is served in form ofBlack tea,Milk tea,Herbal tea,Spiced tea, Green Tea, Lemon tea (adding lemon juice to black tea), etc. Most of the Assamese people like to drink laal saah(red tea).
An Assamese meal is generally concluded with the chewing ofTamul(Assamese:তামোল). Pieces ofBetel nut(Areca Catechu) are eaten in combination with Betel leaf (Piper betle), ediblelimestoneandtobacco. It is a routine item after every meal.