Amazonas (Peruvian department)

Amazonas(Spanish pronunciation:[amaˈsonas]) is a department andregionin northernPerubordered byEcuadoron the north and west,Cajamarcaon the west,La Libertadon the south, andLoretoandSan Martínon the east. Its capital is the city ofChachapoyas.
With a landscape of steep river gorges and mountains, Amazonas is the location ofKuelap, a huge stone fortress enclosing more than 400 stone structures; it was built on a mountain about 3,000 meters high, starting about 500 AD and was occupied to the mid-16th century. It is one of Peru's major archeological sites.
Thedepartment of Amazonasconsists of regions covered byrainforestsandmountain ranges. The rainforest zone predominates (72.93%) and it extends to the north over its oriental slope, up to the border withEcuadorin the summits of theCordillera del Cóndor. The mountain range zone is located in the southernprovincesof the Amazonas Region and it only includes 27.07% of its whole territorial surface.
One of the factors that help to give big importance to itsgeographyis not only that the big valleys andplainsof its rainforest zone are the closest to thePacific Ocean, but also its connections with the routes of the coast are the lowest. This is because they use thePaso de Porculla(the mountain pass of Porculla) that is located at 2,144 m. This is the lowest pass of the whole PeruvianAndesto arrive to thePan-American roadsystem.
The vast and deepMarañónvalley  which constitutes one of the most important morphologic features of the region.
The Marañón valley crosses a big part of its territory and expands itself from south to north. It reaches its greatest width in the province ofBagua. It narrows when it crosses theCordillera Oriental(Spanishfor "eastern mountain range") in its most violent route towards the east, towards thelowest part of the Amazon. It crosses canyons and natural porches calledpunkus, aQuechuaword that means doors.
TheUtkupampavalley which is the real axis of the department of Amazonas is located between5°and6°of south latitude and78°and79°of west longitude. It is longitudinally developed up to the Marañón River, in which it flowed at 400 m.
This zone is the principal center of production and human groups location. It is developed in four very pronounced sectors:
The principaltributariesof the Utkupampa are theChiriaco, theNieva, theSantiago(that is born inEcuador) and theCenepa, that is born in the north zone of theCordillera del Cóndor. The Cenepa River receives in its trip numerous tributaries like theComaina. It flowed in theMarañon river, located nearOrellana(Condorcanqui Province).
The Utkupampa valley which is born in the highjalcasof the Chachapoyas Province and which runs from southeast to northwest to mix with the waters of the Marañón River, forms the immenseplain of Bagua. This plain has a warm climate, which temperature can reach a maximum of 40 °C, being the minimum one 21 °C.
Like in the wholehigh jungleregion of Peru –head of mountain-, its water regimen is irregular and sometimes without rains.
Some of the important places inside this route are the touristic corridor of the Utkupampa and the lakePumaqucha.
Some excavation ofarchaeologicalsites covered over by the rain forest have attested to the presence of humans in the area since ancient times. Most of the Pre-Hispaniccultures that became prosperous in the area are still a mystery due to the lack of research. Deep in the interior,Kuélap's Fortressis an ancient walled city and archeological site in the mountains. The largest stone complex in South America, it is located 3,000 meters above sea level, higher than the site of Machu Picchu.It is located above theAmazon River, where it bends before entering the broad lowland basin. A huge construction of military architecture, Kuélap's Fortress includes the ruins of some 450 houses.
TheChachapoyas culturedeveloped during theIncaage; these people strongly opposed the Incan conquest and repelled the first Inca attempts to incorporate the region to their empire in the 15th century.
The Spanish colonial region's capital, Chachapoyas, was founded in 1538 byAlonso de Alvarado. During the same year, its first church was built. Later the Santa Ana, San Lázaro and Señor de Burgos churches were built. In April 1821, the city's inhabitants expelled the Spaniards and ignored their rule, following the steps taken by theSan Martínliberating army as Peru gained independence from Spain.
The area of the Amazonas Region was strongly linked to the movement for independence. The clericToribio Rodríguez de Mendozawas its most outstanding representative, encouraging the patriots of this era and signing the National Act of Independence.
TheCordillera del Condor, located in this region, was the scene of the border war between Peru and Ecuador in 1981.
The natives of the region received in a jubilant and cordial way the first Spanish who came into Amazonas. They knew about their arrival in Peru by the news that they had received fromCajamarca.
Those people had toldFrancisco PizarrothatChachapoyaswas an excellent agricultural region where the people possessed a lot of gold and silver. The conquistador did not lose time and formed an expedition of 20 men, putting captainAlonso de Alvaradoin charge of it, with the express order to found aChristiancity at Chachapoyas.
The chroniclers say that, when the Spanish arrived to the region, the Chachapoyas people gave big parties in their honor and gave them many rich gifts willingly, also numerous examples of appreciation, including showing some interest to become Christians.
Pizarro decided to send a second expedition, this time with instructions to take possession of the zone, deliveringAlvaradoa provision so he would be able to found the city ofSan Juan de la Frontera de los Chachapoyas.
But this time Pizarro's envoy met the bellicose resistance of acuracacalledHuamán, whom they had to defeat before coming to their destination, where they founded the mentioned city on September 5, 1538.
Alvarado had chosen a place calledJalca, which apparently did not have the demanded conditions. This was the reason why the location of the flaming city was changed several times.
According to the papers of the epoch, the last time that a change was made was in 1544, but it is unknown when the city was established in its current place.
The same day of Chachapoyas' foundation, the members of the firstcabildowere elected, turning out to be designated thecouncillorsGómez de Alvarado,Alonso de Chávez,Gonzalo de Trujillo,Gonzalo de Guzmán,Luis Valera(father of thechroniclerBlas Valera),Pedro Romero,Bernardino de AnayaandFrancisco de Fuentes.
According to the Spanish custom, the layout of the city was made by means of rectilinear design streets.
A few years after its foundation, the prosperity of the region began to demonstrate itself in magnificent constructions in the city of Chachapoyas, with bigcourts, wide lounges and architectural characteristics adapted to the zone.
The colonial aspect of Chachapoyas has stayed almost intact until now, and it is one of the most attractive characteristics of this old city.
A refined religious feeling was one of the characteristics that distinguished the settlers of this region during the colonial period. In the same year of the foundation of Chachapoyas, the firstchurchwas built. Its firstpriestwasHernando Gutiérrez Palacios. Later the churches ofSanta Ana,San LázaroandSeñor de Burgoswere built.
Three religiousconventswere also established: San Francisco, La Merced and that of the betlehemitas. The majority of the persons who settled in Chachapoyas from the time of its foundation were people withnobility, but poor. They were living in a modest and worthily way and they devoted themselves toagricultureandmining. Many settlers achieved a loose economic position, keeping, nevertheless, the austerity of the customs that was one of the highlight points of Chachapoyas' social life.
With time the settlers were spreading to other zones of the region, such asLuya, city that was established in 1569 by the governorLope García de Castro, ratified later in its administrative organization by theviceroyFrancisco de Toledo.
There it bloomed anagricultureof varied production and the upbringing ofdairy,sheepandequinecattle.
In one of his pastoral visits,Saint Toribio de Mogrovejovisited the principal populations of this department in this epoch.
The inhabitants of Chachapoyas became involved in the movement for independence. In April 1821, helping the action ofSan Martin'sliberating army, they ignored the Spanish authorities, exiling the subdelegateFrancisco Baquedanoand thebishopofMaynasHipólito Sánchez, who were fighting openly againstindependence.
Noted patriots born in Amazonas include:
The military chief ofMoyobamba, colonelJosé Matos, organized an army of 600 men, who confronted the patriots on June 6, 1821, inHigos Urco pampa. Although the latter lacked training, military knowledge or discipline, they faced the realistas determined to give their lives in defense of the proclaimed freedom.Matea Rimachiwas an Amazonas woman renowned as a heroine ofHigos Urco.
Toribio Rodríguez de Mendoza, aprofessor,politician,philosopherandjurist, was one of the most important patriot leaders of the Amazonas.  He signed the record of national independence inLima. He was therectorof theConvictorio de San Carlos, member of theSociedad Amantes del País(Lovers of the Country Society), founder and collaborator of the newspaperMercurio Peruano, deputy of theSpanish Parliamentandcongressmanof thefirst Constituent Congress, in which the majority of its members were his disciples.
The department of Amazonas was created by a law issued by the government of themarshalAgustín Gamarra, promulgated on November 21, 1832. The initiative belonged to two illustrious children of Chachapoyas:Modesto de la VegaandJosé Braulio de Camporredondo.Camporredondowas in charge of the presidency of the republic, in absence of the marshallGamarra. Four years later, adepartment of the same namewas established alongside thePeru–Bolivian Confederation.
The same law contained a series of norms to promote the economic development of the new Hindu network including exonerations of rights in its commerce with Ecuador or Brazil. In accordance with this law, the regions ofPataz,ChachapoyasandMaynaswill stay inside the limits of the Amazonas Region.
Salaverrytried futilely to annul the creation of this department that, later, according to diverse demarcating dispositions was diminishing in its area. Most of its territory was dismembered in 1866, when thedepartment of Loretowas created.
The creation of its current provinces was realized in the following dates:
The colonial splendour ofChachapoyas, almost a complete city, was disappearing during the Republic because it had been imposed in the country a new means of transport that were turning it in a cloistered and outlying city from the rest of the country.
Chachapoyas remained this way during more than one century in the Republic. Without highways, routes connecting to the city had to be done on horse, in long and painful caravans from the coast, or by the rivers from the region of the east. This situation continued until 1960, when highway connections arrived to Chachapoyas, although it had been already preceded by air transport.
Later, during the last government ofManuel Prado, the highway that joins Chachapoyas with the big route of penetration Olmos-Marañon was inaugurated. With this, Amazonas was put in direct communication withLimaand the rest of the Republic.
Thedepartment of Amazonaspossesses a great past that is still precariously evaluated and spread. On its borders, there are fabulous archaeological testimonies likeCuélap, the most extensive monument of the Peruvian ancestral past. Cuélap was the main city of theChachapoyas culturein their peak years.
When the Spanish arrived in Peru in the 16th century, the Chachapoya were among the many nations incorporated into theInca Empire. Their incorporation to the Inca Empire had not been easy, due to the sprouts of resistance that the Chachapoyas offered repeatedly to the Inca's troops.
The chroniclerPedro Cieza de Leónoffers some notes about the Chachapoyas:
Cieza adds that, after the annexation to the Inca Empire, the Chachapoya apparently adopted the customs imposed by the people from thedepartment of Cuzco.
The meaning of the wordchachapoyais unknown. If it is in theQuechua language, it may have been derived fromsacha-p-collas, meaning the "colla people who live in the woods" (sacha= wildp= of thecolla= nation in whichAimarais spoken).
The Chachapoya territory was very extensive. It included the triangular space that is shaped by the confluence of the Marañón and Utcubamba rivers in the zone ofBagua, up to the basin of theAbiseo river. In this place are the Chachapoya'sruins of Pajatén. To the south, their territory extended to theChontayacu river. That was beyond the current border of Amazonas. The center of the Chachapoyas culture was the basin of the Utcubamba river.
this territory has been defined by the remains of structures in the distinctive Chachapoya architectural style.Garcilazo de la Vegarecords that the Chachapoyas' territory was so extensive that,
(Theleaguewas a measurement that covered about 5 kilometers.)
The area of the Chachapoyas corresponds to a region that was part of a mountain range and covered by dense tropical woods. It was named as theAmazonian Andes, to replace the former "mountain region".
As fast as the population was growing, the forests of the Amazonian Andes were felled in order to extend the agricultural area. This resulted in destruction of the rain forest anddesertification, since the climate and rain combined to make a soil of low fertility. Many plants could not be cultivated here, but deforestation exposed the land to aridity. Soil erosion has taken place in areas that became deforested. In the 21st century, the Amazonian Andes resemble the barren scenery of the Andean moorlands.
The Amazonian Andes are constituted by the oriental flank of the Andes, covered originally by a dense Amazon vegetation. It spread from thecordilleraspurs until reaching surprising altitudes where the forests have not been felled, in certain cases exceeding the 3 500 m.
The Amazonian Andes have a height range of 2 to 3,000 meters of altitude, where the Chachapoya could develop their settlements. The numerous architectural remains show they were well established here.
The Amazonas Region has a millennial history. There are some testimonies exhibited on rocky walls dated from the most remote times. Such is the case of therock paintingsofChiñuña-YamónandLimones-Calpónin theprovince of Utcubamba. A part of these haughty pictorial samples was made by people that had a hunting economy. These people perhaps left their trace 6 or 7 thousand years ago. At the times in which the formation of Peruvian civilization was consolidated, it appeared a type of ceramics mainly identified inBagua.
From the Chachapoyas culture, there are innumerable architectural remains, such asCuélap,Congón(place that was re-baptized by the name ofVilaya),Olán, Purunllaqta (place that was re-baptized by the name ofMonte Peruvia),Pajatén, etc. All these expressions of architecture show a model that allows to identify them like if they are related to each other. What has not been established yet is the age of these architectural remains, neither which one would be the most ancient and which one the last in the cultural development of the chachapoyas.
Some of thearchaeologicaltestimonies that talk about the cultural splendour reached by the Chachapoyas in pre-Inca times are fantastic. These principally refer to two forms of grave and one wall painting.
These are some of the most important archeological sites found in the Amazonas Region:
The region is divided into 7provinces(provincias, singular:provincia) which are composed of 83districts(distritos, singular:distrito). The provinces and their capitals are:
According to the2007 Peru Census, the language learnt first by most of the residents wasSpanish(84.90%). The following table shows the results concerning the language learnt first in the Amazonas Region by province:
The majority of the population isMestizo. Among others the region is populated byAguarunaandHuambisapeople.
In 2017, 83.4% (326,784) of the population is literate and 16.6% (65,235) of the population is illiterate.
The folklore of Amazonas is not as varied as in other departments of Peru.
The profusion of dances, songs and clothing is not seen in here, like inPunoorCuzco. Its folklore is nourished fromlegendsandstoriesin which mystery and inexplicable things are always present. Towns,lagoons, hills, religious images, always have an origin that violates in an invariable way the rules of logic orbiology.
For example, if you ask people about the lake Quchakunka(Cochaconga)they will say that it is enchanted. They say it has the "form of a neck" and that with the smallest noise provoked by an animal or the scream of a person, there will be a tremendous thunderstorm in which an enormousmonsterwill appear in the shape of cow. This monster will become mad with the strangers. That's why, whoever passes by this remote place, does it with maximum precautions for not altering the local silence.
To give accommodation to travelers is an elementary norm of good behaviour with people. To deny it can provoke the most tremendous evil on the selfish person. An irrefutable evidence is themarsh of Mono Muerto(Dead Monkey's marsh), in theHuambo District(Rodríguez de Mendoza Province). A dramatic story that people tell, with more or less details, but with the same respect.
A very rich man was living in his house. Themarshwas a part of hisestate, in which he was happy and lacking of nothing, until the day a traveler asked him for home and he denied it to him. Awitch doctorof the surroundings, who found out about the attitude of the wealthy neighbor, entrusted that all the curses fell on him. All his goods disappeared and his grounds became a stinking marsh.
Mysterious power are also assumed to the four lagoons of Pukyu, in which there are monsters that influence the crops, as well as to the lake Santa Barbara which disappears before the view of the walkers and it is destined to initiate the end of the world with the overflow of its waters.
Next to the city Chachapoyas there is a hill called Pisquwañuna(Piscohuañuna), in the way towards the forest. This name means "where the bird dies", because the mountain kills all the birds that approach it.
People attribute pernicious influences to certain animals like themochuelothat "freezes the soul", or  "quien-quien", that makes fun of the travelers in the roads; or thecricket, which singing in certain circumstances, like when it has sound of bells, presages big evil.
People have big respect to the antique remains. They firmly believe that there will be terrifying punishments for those who violate the graves of the "agüelos" (mummies).
Most of the population of the department of Amazonas isindigenousandmestizo, being notable the people' quantity, in some cases entire communities, in which the Spanish type predominates. Since the time of the Incas, there are legends about the existence of white people in these places. There are also versions gathered by chroniclers in which they assure that women were chosen here for the Inca, precisely because they were white.
Some of the dances most representative of the Department of Amazonas are:
Religiousness is an outstanding note in the most of these towns and they demonstrate it through the enthusiasm and withdrawal that they put into these celebrations. But, faithful to their tradition, their religious beliefs are mixed with fantastic apparitions and there is almost always acavein them.
There are three Virgins who are famous:
Well, there is no one who does not believe the story that said that the three Virgins were found in a cave to which a youngshepherdwas mysteriously attracted. And when theVirgin of Levantogoes toChachapoyas"her sisters" go to the outer parts of the town for "receiving her".
The venerated image ofSanta Lucía(Saint Lucy) was also found by a girl in a cave.Cristo de Bagazán(Christ of Bagazán), who is venerated inRioja, was also found by astockbreederwho was looking for a lost ox. Near Almirante, he heard a voice that was calling him by his name from the interior of a cave, in which he found aChristimage that told him: "take me".
In days of longdrought,Cristo de la Contradicción(the Christ of Contradiction) disappears from thechapelof thecemeteryofChachapoyasand he is "discovered" when it begins to rain, beginning then big celebrations up to the time of taking him to his place again.
Corpus Christi,Holy Week,the Assumption,Dia de los Difuntos(Day of the death), andChristmasare classic dates in the calendar of this department. InChristmasDays there are groups of little shepherds that walk around the streets singing and dancing in front of thecribs. With the same splendour, the patronal feasts are celebrated in all the towns.
One of the most well-known and traditional celebrations is known as:
Some of the most well-known and delicious typical dishes of this region are the following:
This department includesinter-Andeanandforestregions. It has a strong forest and hydro energy potential. Theprovince of Bagua, because of geographical factors, has an agricultural development producing such commodity crops asrice,coffee,Cocoa bean,fruit treesandlivestock.
The department of Amazonas presents three well-defined geographical areas with distinct climates:
The provinces ofBongará,LuyaandChachapoyaspresent a very hilly geographical configuration, that gives themmountain rangecharacteristics. They have been called the Amazonian Andes.
Amazonas has a primarily agrarian economy. It also featuresminingandenergy, specifically, hydropower and oil development.
The department has excellent and favorable conditions in both:climateandpasturesavailability for theagricultural-livestockdevelopment.
The information about structure of the agricultural surface, size of the agricultural units, main cultivations andcattlepopulation is taken from what was recorded in the III National Agricultural Census 1994 (IIICENAGRO), made by theInstituto Nacional de Estadística e Informática(INEI) (National Institute of Statistics and Informatics).
The department of Amazonas has 48,173 agricultural units (UA) with 9,811.75 km(3,788.34 sq mi). 99.9% of the UA have lands and 0.1% do not have them. This 0.1% are exclusively dedicated to thebreeding of animals.
It only considers the area of the agricultural units that have worked lands.
From the total of agricultural lands (9750.34 km), only 16,4% includes the agricultural area and 83,6% includes the non-agricultural area.
It only considers the area of the agricultural units that have worked lands.
Agricultural units with 0.5 km(0.19 sq mi) and more only represent 4.4% of the whole department, but concentrate 61.8% of the agricultural surface.
Riceis the main transitory cultivation of the department. It brings together 18.5% of the agricultural surface with transitory cultivations (129.42 km). Dry yellowmaizewith 125.08 km(48.29 sq mi) (17.9%) is the second important one.
Coffeeconcentrates 66.4% of the agricultural area with permanent cultivations (198.19 km), followed byTheobroma cacao(cocoa bean) with 31.21 km(12.05 sq mi) (10,5%).
Cattleis the most important one in the department. It is raised in 21,857 AU (Agricultural units) with a population of 139,267 head of cattle.Pigsare the second one with 34,421 head, distributed in 14,573 AU.
Several institutions are linked with the Amazon region inPeruand help its economic and social development and preservation. These include the following: