Lomi-lomi salmon

Lomi-lomi salmon(orlomi salmon) is a side dish inHawaiian cuisinecontaining saltedsalmon, onions, and tomatoes. Its origin is similar topoisson cru.It resemblespico de gallonot only in appearance, but also in the way it is often consumed: as an accompaniment (or condiment) to other foods, in this casepoiorkalua pork.
Hawaiians of yesteryear would probably not recognize the contemporary version of this dish served today. However, it is seen today as a quintessential side dish when serving traditional Hawaiian foods or at traditionallū‘aufestivities. Whilesalmonis not a fish found in Hawaiian waters, and onions and tomatoes are not "pre-contact" foods,lomilomi salmonis still embraced as an ethnicHawaiian dish.It is appropriate that dish should be known popularly by itshapaname "lomi salmon" rather than "lomi kāmano".
A similar dish calledlomi ʻōpae(ʻōpaelit. "shrimp") usesdried shrimpin place of salted salmon and was made popular by singerHenry Kapono.
Hawaiianswere first introduced to salmon around the early 1800s, as contract laborers sent to thePacific Northwest. Salmon would have likely been traditionally prepared aspoke. A typical relish was made ofʻinamonamixed with driedʻalaʻala(octopus liver) andʻalaeasalt. The poke was accompanied with several types ofʻakaʻakai(onion),limu kohuand a large bowl of poi.
A type ofpokein essence, the namelomilomiis taken from the traditional method of preparation (Hawaiianfor "to massage") where fresh fish is rubbed with salt in varying amounts to simply season it for flavor or to cure it for preservation.In the evolution of this dish from itspokeorigins, the salt salmon is then cubed into small ~1cm pieces and again massaged into chopped tomatoes and onions of about the same size. Some modern recipes call for scallions, cucumbers, chilis, additional salt, or lime, or even fish substitutes other than salmon and is typically served chilled or with ice.
When CaptainJames Cookarrived in 1778, he brought along with him the concept of preserved fish and meat—such as salted cod and corned beef—common rations of foreign navies, whalers, and traders.
In the 1790s, Spanish horticulturistFrancisco de Paula Marinbrought tomatoes to the Hawaiian Islands. He was the first to successfully cultivate and raise tomatoes. De Paula Marin further popularized the planting of onions.
In 1829, theHudson's Bay Company, a fur trading company looking to expand its business in new resources discovered during the expeditions of theNorthwest Passage, established an office in Honolulu to market thePacific Northwest's abundant timber to a growing non-native settlement. The company would hire many Hawaiians as sailors and laborers in the fur and lumber trades.The physical strength of the native Hawaiians had made an impression on the British.Dozens were initially sent to their British Columbia facilities which also operated commercial fisheries at itsFort Langleytrading post. Many were likely to have consumed fresh and cured salmon, which became a very importantcommodity.
By 1840, around 300 to 400 native Hawaiian laborers were sent to the Northwest in vessels and at ports.Many of these laborers chose to permanently settle in the Northwest after their contracts expired.For those returning to Hawaii, the voyage took about three weeks.Since fresh salmon would not last the journey, these laborers introduced salted salmon, which immediately became popular.
The practice ofsalting fish for preservationwas already known to the ancient Hawaiians, and was often consumed withpoiduring periods when the regular fish supply was scarce or when fishing was not possible like during storms. Fish was preferably eaten raw with somealaea saltor sometimes seasoned with blood from the gills.The families of missionaries found salted salmon to be a substitute forsalt cod—the New England standby. Similarly, thePortuguesestarting in the late 1800s brought with thembacalhau, aPortuguesesalted cod.
The Northwest was exporting 3,000 to 4,000 barrels of salted salmon, mainly to Hawaii and Asia by 1835.Following the formation of a constitutional monarchy in Hawaii, the first tariff act took effect on January 1, 1843. The first vessel to make customs entry and to pay thead valorem taxat three percent was the Hudson's Bay barqueVancouverfrom theColumbia River, January 6, 1843. The vessel's cargo consisted of 695 barrels of Columbia River salmon valued at $4,170 ($172,261 in 2023), and 160 twelve-foot four-inch planks valued at $307.20 ($12,690.31 in 2023). On this amount $134.32 ($5,548.70 in 2023) in duty was collected.