Genoa

Genoa(/ˈdʒɛnoʊə/JEN-oh-ə;Italian:Genova[ˈdʒɛːnova];Ligurian:Zêna[ˈzeːna])is a city in and the capital of theItalian regionofLiguria, and thesixth-largest city in Italy. In 2023, 558,745 people lived within the city's administrative limits.While itsmetropolitan cityhas 813,626 inhabitants,more than 1.5 million people live in the wider metropolitan area stretching along theItalian Riviera.
On theGulf of Genoain theLigurian Sea, Genoa has historically been one of the most important ports on theMediterranean: it is currently the busiest in Italy and in the Mediterranean Sea and twelfth-busiest in theEuropean Union.
Genoa was the capital ofone of the most powerful maritime republicsfor over seven centuries, from the 11th century to 1797.Particularly from the 12th century to the 15th century, the city played a leading role in the history of commerce and trade in Europe, becoming one of the largest naval powers of the continent and considered among the wealthiest cities in the world.It was also nicknamedla Superba("the proud one") byPetrarchdue to its glories on the seas and impressive landmarks.The city has hosted massive shipyards and steelworks since the 19th century, and its solid financial sector dates back to the Middle Ages. TheBank of Saint George, founded in 1407, is the oldest known state deposit bank in the world and has played an important role in the city's prosperity since the middle of the 15th century.
Thehistorical centre, also known as old town, of Genoa is one of the largest and most-densely populated in Europe.Part of it was also inscribed on the World Heritage List (UNESCO) in 2006 asGenoa: Le Strade Nuove and the system of the Palazzi dei Rolli. Genoa's historical city centre is also known for its narrow lanes and streets that the locals call "caruggi".Genoa is also home to theUniversity of Genoa, which has a history going back to the 15th century, when it was known as Genuense Athenaeum. The city's rich cultural history inart,musicandcuisineallowed it to become the 2004European Capital of Culture. It is the birthplace ofGuglielmo Embriaco,Christopher Columbus,Andrea Doria,Niccolò Paganini,Giuseppe Mazzini,Renzo PianoandGrimaldo Canella, founder of theHouse of Grimaldi, among others.
Genoa, which forms the southern corner of the Milan-Turin-Genoa industrial triangle ofNorthwest Italy, is one of the country's major economic centres.A number of leading Italian companies are based in the city, includingFincantieri,Leonardo,Ansaldo Energia,Ansaldo STS,Erg,Piaggio Aerospace,Mediterranean Shipping CompanyandCosta Cruises.
The city's modern name may derive from theLatinword meaning "knee" (genu; plural,genua) but there are other theories. It could derive from the godJanus, because Genoa, like him, has two faces: a face that looks at the sea and another turned to the mountains. Or it could come from the Latin wordianua, also related to the name of the God Janus, and meaning "door", or "passage." Besides that, it may refer to its geographical position at the centre of the Ligurian coastal arch. The Latin name,oppidum Genua, is recorded byPliny the Elder(Nat. Hist.3.48) as part of theAugusteanRegio IX Liguria.
Another theory traces the name to theEtruscanwordKainuawhich means "New City", based on an inscription on a pottery sherd readingKainua, which suggests that the Latin name may be a corruption of an older Etruscan one with an original meaning of "new town".
The city's area has been inhabited since the fifth or fourth millennium BC, making it one of theoldest continuously inhabited citiesin the world.In the fifth century BC the first town, oroppidum, was founded probably by theancient Ligures(which gave the name to the modern region ofLiguria) at the top of the hill today called Castello (Castle), which is now inside the medieval old town.In this period the Genoese town, inhabited by the "Genuati" (a group of Ligure peoples), was considered "the emporium of the Ligurians", given its strong commercial character.
The "Genoese oppidum" had an alliance withRomethrough afoedus aequum(equal pact) in the course of theSecond Punic War. TheCarthaginiansaccordingly destroyed it in 209 BC. The town was rebuilt and, after theCarthaginian Warsended in 146 BC, it received municipal rights. The originalcastrumthen expanded towards the current areas of Santa Maria di Castello and the San Lorenzo promontory. Trade goods included skins, timber, and honey. Goods were moved to and from Genoa's hinterland, including major cities likeTortonaandPiacenza. An amphitheater was also found there among other archaeological remains from the Roman period.
After the fall of theWestern Roman Empire, theOstrogothsoccupied Genoa. After theGothic War, theByzantinesmade it the seat of theirvicar. When theLombardsinvaded Italy in 568, BishopHonoratusofMilanfled and held his seat in Genoa.During this time and in the following century Genoa was little more than a small centre, slowly building its merchant fleet, which was to become the leading commercial carrier of the Western Mediterranean. In 934–35 the town wasthoroughly sacked and burnedby aFatimid fleetunderYa'qub ibn Ishaq al-Tamimi.
Genoa started expanding during theFirst Crusade. At the time the city had a population of about 10,000. Twelvegalleys, one ship and 1,200 soldiers from Genoa joined the crusade. The Genoese troops, led by noblemen de Insula and Avvocato, set sail in July 1097.The Genoese fleet transported and provided naval support to the crusaders, mainly during thesiege of Antiochin 1098, when the Genoese fleet blockaded the city while the troops provided support during the siege.In thesiege of Jerusalemin 1099Genoese crossbowmenled byGuglielmo Embriacoacted as support units against the defenders of the city.
The Republic's role as a maritime power in the Mediterranean region secured many favorable commercial treaties for Genoese merchants. They came to control a large portion of the trade of theByzantine Empire,Tripoli(Libya), thePrincipality of Antioch,Cilician Armenia, and Egypt.Although Genoa maintained free-trading rights in Egypt and Syria, it lost some of its territorial possessions after Saladin's campaigns in those areas in the late 12th century.
The commercial and cultural rivalry of Genoa and Venice was played out through the thirteenth century. Thanks to the major role played by theRepublic of Venicein theFourth Crusade, Venetian trading rights were enforced in the eastern Mediterranean and Venice was able to gain control of a large portion of maritime commerce in the region.
To regain control of local commerce, the Republic of Genoa allied withMichael VIII Palaiologos, emperor ofNicaea, who wanted to restore the Byzantine Empire by recapturingConstantinople. In March 1261 the treaty of the alliance was signed inNymphaeum.On 25 July 1261, Nicaean troops underAlexios Strategopoulosrecaptured Constantinople.As a result, the balance of favour tipped toward Genoa, which was granted free trade rights in the Nicene Empire.The islands ofChiosandLesbosbecame commercial stations of Genoa as well as the city ofSmyrna(Izmir). In the same century the Republic conquered many settlements inCrimea, known asGazaria, where the Genoese colony ofCaffawas established. The alliance with the restored Byzantine Empire increased the wealth and power of Genoa, and simultaneously decreased Venetian and Pisan commerce. The Byzantine Empire had granted the majority of free trading rights to Genoa.
Around the 14th century, Genoa was also credited with the invention of bluejeans. Genoa's jean fabric was afustiantextile of "medium quality and of reasonable cost", very similar to cottoncorduroyfor which Genoa was famous, and was "used for work clothes in general". TheGenoese navyequipped its sailors with jeans, as they needed a fabric which could be worn wet or dry.
During theAragonese–Genoese War,Genoa was besiegedand sacked by Guillem de Cervelló. As a result of the Genoese support to theAragoneserule inSicily, Genoa was granted free trading and export rights in the Kingdom. Genoese bankers also profited from loans to the new nobility of Sicily. Corsica was formally annexed in 1347.
In the 15th century two of the earliest banks in the world were founded in Genoa: theBank of Saint George, founded in 1407, which was the oldest state deposit bank in the world at its closure in 1805 and theMonte di Pietàof Genoa founded in 1483.Christopher Columbuswas born in Genoac.1451, and donated one-tenth of his income from the discovery of the Americas for Spain to theBank of Saint Georgein Genoa for the relief of taxation on foods. Under the ensuing economic recovery, many aristocratic Genoese families, such as the Balbi,Doria,Grimaldi,Pallavicini, and Serra, amassed tremendous fortunes. According to Felipe Fernandez-Armesto and others, the practices Genoa developed in theMediterranean(such as chattel slavery) were crucial in the exploration and exploitation of the New World.
Thereafter, Genoa underwent something of an associate of theSpanish Empire, with Genoese bankers, in particular, financing many of the Spanish crown's foreign endeavors from theircounting housesinSeville.Fernand Braudelhas even called the period 1557 to 1627 the "age of the Genoese", "of a rule that was so discreet and sophisticated that historians for a long time failed to notice it" (Braudel 1984 p. 157). The Genoese bankers provided the unwieldyHabsburgsystem with fluid credit and a dependably regular income. In return the less dependable shipments of American silver were rapidly transferred from Seville to Genoa, to provide capital for further ventures. Genoa's trade, however, remained closely dependent on control of Mediterranean sealanes, and the loss ofChiosto theOttoman Empire(1566), struck a severe blow.To help cope,Panamain the Americas was given as concession from the Spanish Empire to Genoa.The Genoese there encountered coconuts from the Philippines which drifted or were planted there by Malay seafarers before Spain came.The Spanish governor of Panama, DonSebastian Hurtado de Corcuerasailed west from the Americas and used Peruvians, and Genoese from Panama in his conquest of Muslim areas of the Philippines which he subjugated to the Christian Presidio ofZamboanga.Curiously, Zamboanga's Chavacano Creole language, has Italian vocabulary and cognates.
From the 17th century, the Genoese Republic started a period of slow decline, In May 1625 a French-Savoian army briefly laid siege to Genoa. Though it was eventuallylifted with the aid of the Spanish, the French would laterbombard the cityin May 1684 for its support of Spain during theWar of the Reunions.In-between, aplaguekilled as many as half of the inhabitants of Genoa in 1656–57.
In 1729, the Republic of Genoa must cope with the beginning of the Corsica revolution for the independence, first led byLuiggi Giafferiand Giacinto Paoli, which culminated after 26 years of struggles, costly in economic and military terms for the Republic of Genoa, in a self proclaimedCorsican Republicin 1755 under the leadership ofPasquale Paoli, son of Giacinto Paoli.
The Republic of Genoa continued its slow decline well into the 18th century, losing its lastMediterraneancolony, the island fortress ofTabarka, to theBey of Tunisin 1742.
TheConvention of Turinof 1742, in which Austria allied with theKingdom of Sardinia, caused some consternation in the Republic.  Consequently, the Republic of Genoa signed a secret treaty with the Bourbon allies ofKingdom of France,Spanish EmpireandKingdom of Naples. On 26 June 1745, the Republic of Genoa declared war on the Kingdom of Sardinia. This decision would prove disastrous for Genoa, which later surrendered to the Austrians in September 1746 and was briefly occupied before a revolt liberated the city two months later.
The Republic of Genoa, in a weak state and not capable of suppressing the Corsican struggle for independence, was forced to cedeCorsicatoFrancein 1768Treaty of Versailles. Only a year later,Napoleon Bonapartewas born in Corsica.
In 1780, the Confetteria Romanengo was founded in Genoa.
The direct intervention ofNapoleon(during theCampaigns of 1796) and his representatives in Genoa was the final act that led to the fall of the Republic in early June, who overthrew the old elites which had ruled the state for all of its history, giving birth to theLigurian Republicon 14 June 1797, under the watchful care of Napoleonic France.
After Bonaparte's seizure of power in France, a more conservative constitution was enacted, but the Ligurian Republic's life was short—in 1805 it was annexed by France, becoming thedépartementsofApennins,Gênes, andMontenotte.
Following the fall of Napoleon, Genoa regained ephemeral independence, with the name of theRepubblica genovese, which lasted less than a year. However, theCongress of Viennaestablished the annexation of the whole territories of the former Genoese Republic to theKingdom of Sardinia, governed by theHouse of Savoy, contravening the principle of restoring the legitimate governments and monarchies of the old Republic.
In the 19th century, Genoa consolidated its role as a major seaport and an important steel and shipbuilding centre. In Genoa in 1853,Giovanni AnsaldofoundedGio. Ansaldo & C.whose shipyards would build some of the most beautiful ships in the world, such asARA Garibaldi,SS Roma,MSAugustus,SS Rex,SS Andrea Doria,SS Cristoforo Colombo,MS Gripsholm,SS Leonardo da Vinci,SS Michelangelo, andSS SeaBreeze. In 1854, the ferry companyCosta Crocierewas founded. In 1861 theRegistro Italiano NavaleItalian register of shipping was created, and in 1879 theYacht Club Italiano. The ownerRaffaele Rubattinoin 1881 was among the founders of the ferry companyNavigazione Generale Italianawhich then become theItalian Line.In 1870 Banca di Genova was founded which in 1895 changed its name toCredito Italianoand in 1998 becameUnicredit. In 1874 the city was completely connected by railway lines to France and the rest of Italy:Genoa-Turin,Genoa-Ventimiglia,Genoa-Pisa. In 1884Rinaldo PiaggiofoundedPiaggio & C.that produced locomotives and railway carriages and then in 1923 began aircraft production. In 1888 the Banca Passadore was established. In 1898 the insurance company calledAlleanza Assicurazioniwas founded.
In 1917Lloyd Italicoinsurance company was founded. From 1935 to 1940Torre Piacentiniwas built in Genoa. It was one of the first skyscrapers built in Europe and, until 1954, the tallest habitable building in Italy. In 1956 Genoa took part in theRegatta of the Historical Marine Republics. In 1962Genoa International Boat Showwas established. In 1966Euroflorawas established.In 1970 Genoa was hit by a serious flood, which caused theBisagnostream to overflow. In 1987 theBanco di San Giorgiowas established. In 1992 Genoa celebrated the ColombiadiorGenoa Expo '92, the celebration of the 500th anniversary of the discovery of theAmerican ContinentbyChristopher Columbus. The area of the ancient port of Genoa is restructured and expanded also with the works of the architectRenzo Piano.
The27th G8 summit, that took place in July 2001, was hosted in the city of Genoa; however, it was overshadowed by violent protests (Anti-globalisation movement), with one protester killed.In 2003, theIstituto Italiano di Tecnologia(IIT) was established. In 2004, theEuropean Uniondesignated Genoa as theEuropean Capital of Culturefor that year, along with the French city ofLille. In 2015, work began to secure the Genoa area, hit by the floods of 2010, 2011 and 2014, with the reconstruction and expansion of the coverage of theBisagno stream.Furthermore, work began for the completion of the underground stream channel of the Ferreggiano river, which flooded several times in various floods, including the most tragic one in 1970.In 2017, the architectRenzo Pianodonated the design of the Levante Waterfrontto the Municipality of Genoa; this project involves a radical transformation of theFiera di Genova, with the creation of a new dock and an urban park, the continuation ofCorso Italiatowards Porta Siberia and the construction of residential structures. In 2018, the first planning and study works began for the realization of the Waterfront of Levante project.From 21 April to 6 May 2018,Euroflora 2018took place, an exhibition of flowers and ornamental plants for the first time in the Parchi di Nervi venue, rather than in the historic venue of theFiera di Genova. On 14 August 2018 thePonte Morandiviaduct bridge for motor vehicles collapsed during a torrential downpour, leading to 43 deaths.The remains of thePonte Morandiviaduct bridge were demolished in August 2019. The replacement bridge, theGenoa-Saint George Bridge, was inaugurated in August 2020 duringCOVID-19 pandemic. The tragedy of the collapse of theMorandi Bridgeand its rapid reconstruction with a new viaduct designed by architect Renzo Piano, which occurred during theCOVID-19 pandemic, facilitated by a redefinition of the implementing rules of public procurement, which has been defined as the Genoa model,they will then give further impetus to the construction of the Levante Waterfront, and other important works for the city.
Starting from 2021, the MayorMarco Bucciand thePresident of LiguriaGiovanni Totiwill launch a new plan for the modernization and redevelopment of the entire city of Genoa, which has as its fulcrum Renzo Piano's Levante Waterfront project.From 23 April 2022 to 8 May 2022,Euroflora 2022took place for the second time at the Nervi Parks.In 2023 Genoa becomes the finish ofThe Ocean Race.In 2024 Genoa becomes the 2024 European Capital of Sport.On March 7, 2024, MayorMarco Buccipresented the vision of Genoa 2030, a development and urban renewal plan for Genoa to be completed in 2030.
Theflag of Genoais aSt. George's Cross, a red cross on a white field.
The patron saint of Genoa was SaintLawrenceuntil at least 958, but the Genoese transferred their allegiance toSaint George(and SaintJohn the Baptist) at some point during the 11th or 12th century, most likely with the rising popularity of themilitary saintduring theCrusades. Genoa also had a banner displaying a cross since at latest 1218, possibly as early as 1113.But the cross banner was not associated with the saint; indeed, the saint had his own flag, thevexillum beati Georgii(first mentioned 1198), a red flag showing George and the dragon. A depiction of this flag is shown in the Genoese annals under the year 1227. The Genoese flag with the red cross was used alongside this "Saint George's flag", from at least 1218, known as theinsignia cruxata comunis Janue("cross ensign of the commune of Genoa").
The saint's flag was the city's main war flag, but the cross flag was used alongside it in the 1240s.
TheSaint George's flag (i.e. the flag depicting the saint) remained the main flag of Genoa at least until the 1280s. The flag now known as the "St. George's Cross" seems to have replaced it as Genoa's main flag at some point during the 14th century. TheBook of Knowledge of All Kingdoms(c. 1385) shows it, inscribed with the wordiustiçia, and described as:
There was also a historiographical tradition claimingthat theflag of Englandwas derived from the Genoese flag, which derives from theKnights Templar's red cross, during theThird Crusadein 1190; however, it cannot be substantiated as historical.
The city of Genoa covers an area of 243 square kilometres (94 sq mi) between theLigurian Seaand theApennine Mountains. The city stretches along the coast for about 30 kilometres (19 mi) from the neighbourhood ofVoltrito Nervi, and for 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) from the coast to the north along the valleysPolceveraandBisagno. The territory of Genoa is popularly divided into 5 main zones: the centre, the west, the east, thePolceveraand the Bisagno Valley. Although much of the city centre is located at a low elevation, the territory surrounding it is mountainous with undeveloped land usually being in steep terrain.
Genoa is adjacent to two popular Ligurian vacation spots:CamogliandPortofino. In the metropolitan area of Genoa liesAveto Natural Regional Park.
Genoa has aMediterranean climate(Csa) in theKöppen climate classification, with plentiful precipitation due to its location on acommon storm track. Due to its position between the sea and mountains over 1000 meters high, each neighborhood of Genoa has specific climatic characteristics.
The average yearly temperature is around 20 °C (68 °F) during the day and 14 °C (57 °F) at night. In the coldest months, the average temperature is 12 °C (54 °F) during the day and 6 °C (43 °F) at night. In the warmest months – July and August – the average temperature is 28 °C (82 °F) during the day and 22 °C (72 °F) at night. The daily temperature range is limited, with an average range of about 6 °C (11 °F) between high and low temperatures. Genoa also sees significant moderation from the sea, in stark contrast to areas behind the Ligurian mountains such asParma, where summers are hotter and winters are quite cold.
Annually, the average 2.9 of nights recorded temperatures of ≤0 °C (32 °F) (mainly in January). The coldest temperature ever recorded was −8 °C (18 °F) in February 2012; the highest temperature ever recorded during the day is 38.5 °C (101 °F) in August 2015. Average annual number of days with temperatures of ≥30 °C (86 °F) is about 8, four days in July and August.
Average annual temperature of the sea is 17.5 °C (64 °F), from 13 °C (55 °F) in the period January–March to 25 °C (77 °F) in August. In the period from June to October, the average sea temperature exceeds 19 °C (66 °F).
Genoa is also a windy city, especially during winter whennorthern windsoften bring cool air from thePo Valley(usually accompanied by lower temperatures, high pressure and clear skies). Another typical wind blows fromsoutheast, mostly as a consequence of Atlantic disturbances and storms, bringing humid and warmer air from the sea. Snowfall is sporadic, but does occur almost every year, albeit big amounts in the city centre are rare.Genoa often receives heavy rainfall in autumn from strong convection. Even so, the overall number of precipitation days is quite modest. There are on average 11.57 days annually with thunder, which is more common from May to October than other times of the year.
Annual averagerelative humidityis 68%, ranging from 63% in February to 73% in May.
Sunshine hours total above 2,200 per year, from an average 4 hours of sunshine duration per day in winter to average 9 hours in summer.
The Municipal Council of Genoa is currently led by a right-wing majority, elected in June 2022.
The city of Genoa is subdivided into nine municipi (administrative districts), as approved by the Municipal Council in 2007.
Notable to the city are thePalazzi dei Rolli, included inUNESCO World Heritage SiteGenoa: Le Strade Nuove and the system of the Palazzi dei Rolli. The world-famous Strade Nuove arevia Garibaldi(Strada Nuova),via Cairoli(Strada Nuovissima) andvia Balbi(Strada Balbi). Among the most important palaces are thePalazzo Rosso,Palazzo Bianco, Palazzo Podestà o di Nicolosio Lomellino,Palazzo Reale,Palazzo Angelo Giovanni Spinola,Palazzo Pietro Spinola di San LucaandPalazzo Spinola di Pellicceria.
Genoa'shistoric centreis articulated in a maze of squares and narrowcaruggi(typical Genoese alleys). It joins amedievaldimension with following 16th century andBaroqueinterventions (the ancient Via Aurea, nowVia Garibaldi).
NearVia Garibaldi, through the public elevator Castelletto Levante, one can reach one of the most scenic places in the city,Belvedere Castelletto. The centre of Genoa is connected to its upper part by ancient paths caught between tall palaces, calledcreuze. Walking along these small paths one can reach magnificent places like the Santuario di Nostra Signora di Loreto. Very beautiful is the upper ring road so-called Circonvallazione a Monte that includes Corso Firenze, Corso Paganini, Corso Magenta, Via Solferino, and Corso Armellini.
San Lorenzo cathedralhas a splendid portal and the dome designed byGaleazzo Alessi. Inside is found the treasure of the Cathedral where among other objects there is also what is said to be theHoly Chalice.
The symbols of the city are theLanterna(the lighthouse) (117 metres (384 feet) high), old and standing lighthouse visible in the distance from the sea (beyond 30 kilometres (19 miles)), and the monumental fountain ofPiazza De Ferrari, recently restored, out-and-out core of the city's life. NearPiazza De FerrariandTeatro Carlo Feliceis the Mazzini Gallery, a typical nineteenth-century structure with many elegant shops and coffee bars.
Another tourist destination is the ancient seaside district ofBoccadasse(which means "the mouth of the donkey"), with its multicolour boats, set as a seal toCorso Italia, the promenade which runs along the Lido d'Albaro, and known for its ice-creams. After Boccadasse you can continue along the sea up toSturla.
Just out of the city centre, but still part of the 33 km (21 mi) of coast included in the municipality's territory, areNervi, natural doorway to the Ligurian EastRiviera, andPegli, the point of access to the WestRiviera. Nervi offers many attractions: the promenade overlooking the sea calledPasseggiata Anita Garibaldi[it]; parks covered with lush tropical vegetation; numerousvillasand palaces open to the public that now house museums (like GAM-Galleria d'Arte Moderna, Raccolte Frugone Museum, Museo Giannettino Luxoro and Wolfsoniana). (see alsoParchi di Nervi[it]) The East Riviera of Genoa called Riviera di Levante is part of theItalian Riviera. East Riviera is full of interesting towns to visit, and then from Genoa to east are:Bogliasco,Pieve Ligure,Sori,Recco,Camogli,Portofino,Santa Margherita Ligure,Rapallo,Zoagli,Chiavari,LavagnaandSestri Levante. In the west,Pegliis the site of the famousVilla Durazzo-PallaviciniandArenzanois a seaside town at the foot of theParco naturale regionale del Beigua.
The new Genoa based its rebirth upon the restoration of the green areas of the immediate inland parts, among them theParco naturale regionale del Beigua, and upon the construction of facilities such as theAquarium of Genoain the Old Harbour – the biggest in Italy and one of the major in Europe – and itsMarina(the tourist small port which holds hundreds of pleasure boats). All of these are inside the restored Expo Area, arranged in occasion of the Columbian Celebrations of 1992.
Near the city areCamogliandSan Fruttuoso abbeyaccessible by a daily ferry from the Old Harbour (Porto Antico) of Genoa. In the seabed in front of the San Fruttuoso abbey there is theChrist of the Abyss. From the Old Harbour one can reach by boat other famous seaside places around Genoa such asPortofinoor a little more distant,Lericiand theCinque Terre.
The regained pride gave back to the city the consciousness of being capable of looking to the future without forgetting its past. The resumption of several flourishing hand-crafting activities, far-back absent from thecaruggiof the old town, is a direct evidence of it. The restoration of many of Genoa's churches and palaces in the 1980s and the 1990s contributed to the city's rebirth. A notable example theRenaissance,Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, sitting on the top of the hill of Carignano and visible from almost every part of the city. The total restoration ofDoge's Palaceand of the Old Harbour, and the rebuilding ofTeatro Carlo Felice, destroyed by bombing in theSecond World War, were two more points of strength for the realisation of a new Genoa.
From the 1960s onward, Genoa could not avoid a significant urban renewal, which, as in many other major cities, involved building large public housing complexes. The quality, utility, and functionality of these developments have been, and remain, controversial among the residents who live there.The most well-known case is that of the so-called "Biscione", a development in the shape of a long snake, situated on the hills of the populous district ofMarassi, and one of the group of houses known as "Le Lavatrici" (the washing machines), in the district of Prà.
Beyond a complete restyling of the area, the ancient port zone nearby the Mandraccio opening, in Porta Siberia, was enriched by Genoese architectRenzo Pianowith a large sphere made of metal and glass, installed in the port's waters, not far from theAquarium of Genoa, and unveiled in 2001 in occasion of theG8 Summitheld in Genoa. The sphere (called by the citizens "Piano's bubble" or "The Ball"), after hosting an exposition of fens from Genoa's Botanical Gardens, currently houses the reconstruction of a tropical environment, with several plants, little animals and butterflies.
Piano also designed the subway stations and, in the hills area, the construction – in collaboration withUNESCO– of Punta Nave, base of theRenzo Piano Building Workshop.
Nearby the Old Harbour is the so-called "Matitone", a skyscraper in shape of a pencil, that lays side by side with the group of the WTC towers, core of the San Benigno development, today base of part of the Municipality's administration and of several companies.
St. Lawrence Cathedral(Cattedrale di San Lorenzo) is the city's cathedral, built in a Gothic-Romanesque style. Other notable historical churches are the Commandery of theSaint John's OrdercalledCommenda di San Giovanni di Prèl[it],San Matteo,San Donato,Santa Maria di Castello,Sant'Agostino(deconsecrated since the 19th century, sometimes is used for theatrical representations),Santo Stefano,Santi Vittore e Carlo,Basilica della Santissima Annunziata del Vastato,San Pietro in Banchi,Santa Maria delle Vigne,Nostra Signora della Consolazione,San Siro,Santa Maria Maddalena[it],Santa Maria Assunta di Carignano,Sant'AnnaandChiesa del Gesù e dei Santi Ambrogio e Andrea[it].San Bartolomeo degli Armenihouses theImage of EdessaandSan Pancrazioafter the World War II was entrusted to the ligurian delegation of theSovereign Military Order of Malta. These churches and basilicas are built in Romanesque (San Donato, Santa Maria di Castello, Commenda di San Giovanni di Pré), Gothic (San Matteo, Santo Stefano, Sant'Agostino), Baroque (San Siro) or Renaissance (Santa Maria Assunta di Carignano, San Pietro in Banchi) appearance, or a mix of different styles (Nostra Signora della Consolazione, Santissima Annunziata del Vastato; this last has a Baroque interior and a Neoclassicist façade).
Another well known Genoese church is the shrine ofSaint Francis of Paola, notable for the outer courtyard overlooking the port and the memorial to all those who died at sea. This church is of artistic mention in that the tile depictions of theVia CrucisStations along the brick path to the church.
Near Genoa is found theShrine of Nostra Signora della Guardia, (the sanctuary is said to have inspired the writerUmberto Ecoin making his novelThe Name of the Rose). Another interesting church in the neighborhoods of Genoa isSan Siro di Struppa.
The city was the birthplace of several popes (Innocent IV,Adrian V,Innocent VIII, andBenedict XV) and various saints (Syrus of Genoa,Romulus of Genoa,Catherine of Genoa, andVirginia Centurione Bracelli). The Archbishop of GenoaJacobus de Voraginewrote theGolden Legend. Also from Genoa were:Giovanni Paolo Oliva, theSuperior General of the Society of Jesus;Girolamo Grimaldi-Cavalleroni, the Archbishop of Aix;Ausonio Franchi, priest, philosopher, and theologian; CardinalGiuseppe Siri; and the priestsFrancesco Repetto,Giuseppe Dossetti,Gianni Baget Bozzo, andAndrea Gallo. The present archbishop of Genoa, CardinalAngelo Bagnasco, comes from a Genoese family but was born inPontevico, nearBrescia(see alsoArchdiocese of Genoa).
The main features of central Genoa include thePiazza De Ferrari, around which are theOperaand thePalace of the Doges. Nearby, just outside the medieval city walls, is locatedChristopher Columbus HousewhereChristopher Columbusis said to have lived as a child, although the current building is an 18th-century reconstruction of the original which was destroyed by the French naval bombing of 1684.
In the old port area calledPorto Antico, is locatedPalazzo di San Giorgio. In the Middle Ages, this palace was the headquarters of theBank of Saint George. In its prisons,Marco PoloandRustichello da PisacomposedThe Travels of Marco Polo.
Strada Nuova(now Via Garibaldi), in the old city, alongsideVia Cairoliandvia Balbi, was inscribed on theWorld Heritage Listin 2006. This district was designed in the mid-16th century to accommodate Mannerist palaces built by the city's most eminent families.
Of the many palaces built by the nobility in the city center of Genoa, 114 have not been substantially altered (see alsoRolli di Genova): among these, 42Palazzi dei Rolliare  inscribed on theWorld Heritage List.The most famous arePalazzo Rosso,Palazzo Bianco,Palazzo Doria Tursi,Palazzo Gerolamo Grimaldi,Palazzo Podestà,Palazzo Reale,Palazzo Angelo Giovanni Spinola,Palazzo Pietro Spinola di San Luca,Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria, Palazzo Cicala. Palazzo Bianco, Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Doria Tursi are also known asMusei di Strada Nuovaand host the renowned art collection bequeathed to the city by the Genoese filantropistMaria Brignole Sale De Ferrari, Duchess of Galliera, as well as the violins of the Genoese violinist Niccolò Paganini.The Flemish artist and diplomatPeter Paul RubenswrotePalazzi di Genovain 1622, a book with his own depiction of the palaces of Genoa in the 17th century.
TheGenoese Renaissancebegan with the construction ofVilla del Principecommissioned byAndrea Doria: the architects wereGiovanni Angelo MontorsoliandGiovanni Ponzello, the interior was painted byPerino del Vagaand the garden fountain was realised byTaddeo Carlone.
In 1548Galeazzo Alessi, with the project ofVilla Giustiniani-Cambiaso[it], designed a new prototype of Genoese palace that would be an inspiration to other architects working in Genoa asBartolomeo Bianco,Pietro Antonio Corradi,Rocco Lurago,Giovan Battista Castello, andBernardino Cantone.
Scattered around the city are manyvillas, built between the fifteenth and the twentieth centuries. Among the best known are:Villa Brignole Sale Duchessa di Galliera[it],Villa Durazzo-Pallavicini,Villa Doria Centurione[it],Villa Durazzo Bombrini[it],Villa Serra[it], Villa Giustiniani-Cambiaso,Villa Rossi Martini[it],Villa Imperiale Scassi[it],Villa Grimaldi[it],Villa Negrone Moro[it],Villa Rosazza,Villetta Di Negro[it],Villa delle Peschiere,Villa Imperiale[it],Villa Saluzzo Bombrini[it], andVilla Grimaldi Fassio.
As it regards the 19th century remember the architects Ignazio Gardella (senior), andCarlo Barabinowhich among other things, realises together with Giovanni Battista Resasco, theMonumental Cemetery of Staglieno. The cemetery is renowned for its statues and sepulchral monuments that preserve the mortal remains of notable personalities, includingGiuseppe Mazzini,Fabrizio De André, andConstance Lloyd(Oscar Wilde's wife). In the first half of the 19th century they are completed theAlbergo dei Poveri[it]and theAcquedotto storico[it]. In 1901Giovanni Antonio Porcheddu[it]realised theSilos Granari.
The city is rich in testimony of theGothic RevivallikeAlbertis Castle,Castello Bruzzo[it],Villa Canali Gaslini[it]andMackenzie Castledesigned by the architectGino Coppedè. Genoa is also rich ofArt Nouveauworks, among which:Palazzo della Borsa (Genova),Via XX Settembre(Gino Coppedè,Gaetano Orzaliand others),Hotel Bristol Palace,Grand Hotel Miramare[it]andStazione marittima[it]. Works of Rationalist architecture of the first half of the 20th century areTorre Piacentiniand Piazza della Vittoria whereArco della Vittoria, both designed by the architectMarcello Piacentini. Other architects who have changed the face of Genoa in the 20th century are:Ignazio Gardella,Luigi Carlo Daneri[it]who realised thePiazza Rossettiand the residential complex so-calledIl Biscione[it],Mario Labò[it],Aldo Rossi,Ludovico Quaroni,Franco Albiniwho designed the interiors ofPalazzo Rosso, andPiero Gambacciani[it]. TheEdoardo Chiossone Museum of Oriental Art, designed by Mario Labò, has one of the largest collections of Oriental art in Europe.
Other notable architectural works include: the Old Harbour's new design with theAquarium, theBigo[it]and theBiosfera[it]byRenzo Piano, thePalasport di Genova, theMatitoneskyscraper, and thePadiglione B of Genoa Fair[it], byJean Nouvel. Genoa was home to thePonte MorandibyRiccardo Morandi, built in 1967, collapsed in 2018 and demolished February–June 2019.
The Old Harbour ("Porto Antico" in Italian) is the ancient part of the port of Genoa. The harbour gave access to outside communities creating a good geographical situation for the city.The city is spread out geographically along a section of the Liguria coast, which makes trading by ship possible. Before the development of car, train, and airplane travel, the main outside access for the city was the sea, as the surrounding mountains made trade north by land more difficult than coastal trade. Trade routes have always connected Genoa on an international scale, with increasingly farther reach starting from trade along Europe's coastline before the medieval period to today's connection across continents.In its heyday theGenoese Navywas a prominent power in the Mediterranean.
As the Genoa harbour was so important to the merchants for their own economic success, other nearby harbours and ports were seen as competition for a landing point for foreign traders.  In the 16th century, the Genovese worked to destroy the local shipping competition, the Savona harbour.Taking matters into their own hands, the Genoa merchants and the politically powerful in Genoa attacked the harbour of Savona with stones.This action was taken to preserve the economic stability and wealth of the city during the rise in prominence of Savona. The Genovese would go as far as to war with other coastal, trading cities such as Venice,to protect the trade industry.
Renzo Pianoredeveloped the area for public access, restoring the historical buildings (like the Cotton warehouses) and creating new landmarks like the Aquarium, the Bigo and recently the "Bolla" (the Sphere). The main touristic attractions of this area are the famous Aquarium and the Museum of the Sea (MuMA). In 2007 these attracted almost 1.7 million visitors.
The city of Genoa during its long history at least since the ninth century had been protected by different lines ofdefensive walls. Large portions of these walls remain today, and Genoa has more and longer walls than any other city in Italy. The maincity wallsare known as "Ninth century walls", "Barbarossa Walls" (12th century), "Fourteenth century walls", "Sixteenth century walls" and "New Walls" ("Mura Nuove" in Italian). The more imposing walls, built in the first half of the 17th century on the ridge of hills around the city, have a length of almost 20 km (12 mi). Some fortresses stand along the perimeter of the "New Walls" or close them.
Genoa has 82,000 square metres (880,000 square feet) of public parks in the city centre, such as Villetta Di Negro which is right in the heart of the town, overlooking the historical centre. Many bigger green spaces are situated outside the centre: in the east are the Parks ofNervi(96,000 square metres or 1,030,000 square feet) overlooking the sea, in the west the beautiful gardens ofVilla Durazzo Pallaviciniand itsGiardino botanico Clelia Durazzo Grimaldi(265,000 square metres or 2,850,000 square feet). The numerousvillasand palaces of the city also have their own gardens, like Palazzo del Principe, Villa Doria,Palazzo Biancoand Palazzo Tursi, Palazzo Nicolosio Lomellino,Albertis Castle, Villa Rosazza, Villa Croce, Villa Imperiale Cattaneo, Villa Bombrini, Villa Brignole Sale Duchessa di Galliera, Villa Serra and many more.
The city is surrounded by natural parks such asParco naturale regionale dell'Antola,Parco naturale regionale del Beigua,Aveto Natural Regional Parkand theLigurian Sea Cetacean Sanctuary(a marine protected area).
TheAquarium of Genoa(inItalian:Acquario di Genova) is the largestaquariumin Italy and among the largest in Europe. Built forGenoa Expo '92, it is an educational, scientific and cultural centre. Its mission is to educate and raise public awareness as regards conservation, management and responsible use of aquatic environments. It welcomes over 1.2 million visitors a year.
Control of the entire environment, including the temperature, filtration and lighting of the tanks was provided by local Automation Supplier Orsi Automazione, acquired in 2001 bySiemens.
The Aquarium of Genoa is co-ordinating the AquaRing EU project. It also provides scientific expertise and a great deal of content for AquaRing, including documents, images, academic content and interactive online courses, via its Online Resource Centre.
At the beginning of 2011, there were 608,493 people residing in Genoa, of whom 47% were male and 53% were female. The city is characterised by rapid aging and a long history of demographic declinethat has shown a partial slowdown in the last decade. Genoa has the lowest birth rate and is the most aged of any large Italian city. Minors (children ages 18 and younger) totalled only 14.12% of the population compared to pensioners who number 26.67%. This compares with the Italian average of 18.06% (minors) and 19.94% (pensioners). The median age of Genoa's residents is 47, compared to the Italian average of 42. The current birth rate of the city is only 7.49 births per 1,000 inhabitants, compared to the national average of 9.45.
The Genoa metropolitan area had aGDP amounting to $30.1 billionin 2011, or $33,003 per capita.
Ligurian agriculture has increased its specialisation pattern in high-quality products (flowers,wine,olive oil) and has thus managed to maintain the gross value-added per worker at a level much higher than the national average (the difference was about 42% in 1999).The value of flower production represents over 75% of the agriculture sector turnover, followed by animal farming (11.2%) and vegetable growing (6.4%).
Steel, once a major industry during the booming 1950s and 1960s, phased out after the late 1980s crisis, as Italy moved away from the heavy industry to pursue more technologically advanced and less polluting productions. So the Ligurian industry has turned towards a widely diversified range of high-quality and high-tech products (food, shipbuilding (inSestri Ponenteand in metropolitan area –Sestri Levante), electrical engineering and electronics, petrochemicals, aerospace etc.). Nonetheless, the regions still maintain a flourishing shipbuilding sector (yacht construction and maintenance, cruise-liner building, military shipyards).
In the services sector, the gross value-added per worker in Liguria is 4% above the national average. This is due to the increasing diffusion of modern technologies, particularly in commerce and tourism.
A good motorway network (376 km (234 mi) in 2000) makes communications with the border regions relatively easy. The main motorway is located along the coastline, connecting the main ports of Nice (in France), Savona, Genoa and La Spezia. The number of passenger cars per 1000 inhabitants (524 in 2001) is below the national average (584).
On average, about 17 million tonnes of cargo are shipped from the main ports of the region and about 57 million tonnes enter the region.ThePort of Genoa, with a trade volume of 58.6 million tonnes,ranks first in Italy,second in terms oftwenty-foot equivalent unitsafter thetransshipmentport ofGioia Tauro, with a trade volume of over 2 million TEUs.The main destinations for the cargo-passenger traffic are Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica, Barcelona, and the Canary Islands.
Some big companies based in Genoa includeAnsaldo STS,Ansaldo Energia,Erg,Piaggio Aerospace,Registro Italiano Navale,Banca Carige,SLAM, andCosta Cruises.
The first organised forms of higher education in Genoa date back to the 13th century when private colleges were entitled to award degrees in medicine, philosophy, Theology, Law, Arts.Today theUniversity of Genoa, founded in the 15th century, is one of the largest in Italy, with 11 faculties, 51 departments and 14 libraries. In 2007–2008, the university had 41,000 students and 6,540 graduates.
Genoa is also home to other Colleges, Academies or Museums:
TheItalian Institute of Technologywas established in 2003 jointly by theItalian Ministry of Education, Universities and Researchand theItalian Minister of Economy and Finance, to promote excellence in basic and applied research. The main fields of research of the Institute areNeuroscience,Robotics,Nanotechnology,Drug discovery. The central research labs and headquarters are located in Morego, in the neighbourhood ofBolzaneto.
Clemson University, based inSouth Carolina, United States, has a villa in Genoa where architecture students and students in related fields can attend for a semester or year-long study program.
Florida International University(FIU), based in Miami, Florida, United States, also has a small campus in Genoa, with theUniversity of Genoawhich offers classes within theFIU School of Architecture.
Genoa is the birthplace ofGiovanni Battista BalianiandVincentio Reinieri, of the geneticistLuigi Luca Cavalli-Sforza, of the Nobel Prize astrophysicistRiccardo Giacconiand of the astronautFranco Malerba. The city is home to theErzelli Hi-Tech Park, to theIstituto Italiano di Tecnologia, to the Istituto idrografico della Marina and annually hosts theFestival della Scienza. The city has an important tradition in the fields of the geology, paleontology, botany and naturalistic studies, among the most eminent personalities we remember:Lorenzo Pareto,Luigi d'Albertis,Enrico Alberto d'Albertis,Giacomo DoriaandArturo Issel, we point theOrto Botanico dell'Università di Genova. Very important and renowned is theIstituto Giannina Gaslini.
In 1846 the city hosted the eighth Meeting of Italian Scientists and in 1902Luigi Carneradiscovered an asteroid and called it "485 Genua", dedicating it to the Latin name of Genoa.
The western area of Genoa hosts theErzelli GREAT Campus, an under-constructionscience technology parkwhich houses thehigh-techcorporationsSiemens,Ericsson,Esaote, androboticslaboratoriesof theItalian Institute of Technology (IIT).TheErzelli GREAT Campusscience parkis undergoing a process of enlargement, and in the future will host the new Faculty of Engineering ofUniversity of Genoa. The project has been struggling in recent years with enterprises laying off their employees and no real growth.
Several cruise and ferry lines serve the passenger terminals in the old port, with a traffic of 3.2 million passengers in 2007.MSC Cruiseschose Genoa as one of its main home ports, in competition with the Genoese companyCosta Cruises, which moved its home port toSavona. The quays of the passenger terminals extend over an area of 250,000 square metres (2,700,000 square feet), with 5 equipped berths for cruise vessels and 13 for ferries, for an annual capacity of 4 million ferry passengers, 1.5 million cars and 250,000 trucks.
The historical maritime station of Ponte dei Mille is today a technologically advanced cruise terminal, with facilities designed after the world's most modern airports, to ensure fast embarking and disembarking of all latest generation ships carrying a thousand passengers. A third cruise terminal is currently under construction in the redesigned area of Ponte Parodi, once a quay used for grain traffic.
TheCosta Concordiacruise ship, owned by Costa Cruises, was docked at the port before being dismantled.
TheAirport of Genoa(IATA:GOA,ICAO:LIMJ) (Italian: Aeroporto di Genova) also named Christopher Columbus Airport (Italian: Aeroporto Cristoforo Colombo) is built on an artificial peninsula, 4NM(7.4 km; 4.6 mi) westof the city. The airport is currently operated by Aeroporto di Genova S.P.A., which has recently upgraded the airport complex that now connects Genoa with several daily flights to Rome, Naples, Paris, London, Madrid and Munich. In 2008, 1,202,168 passengers travelled through the airport,with an increase of international destinations and charter flights.
The main railway stations areGenoa Brignolein the east andGenoa Principein the west. Genoa Brignole is close to the business districts and the exhibition centre, while the Principe is close to the port, the university and the historical centre. From these two stations depart the main trains connecting Genoa to France, Turin, Milan and Rome.
Genoa's third most important station isGenoa Sampierdarena, which serves the densely populated neighbourhood of Sampierdarena. 23 other local stations serve the other neighbourhoods on the 30-kilometre-long coast line fromNervitoVoltriand on the northern line throughBolzanetoand the Polcevera Valley.
The municipal administration of Genoa plans to transform these urban railway lines to be part of the rapid transit system, which now consists of theMetropolitana di Genova(Genoa Metro), alight metroconnecting Brin to the city centre. The metro line was extended to Brignole Station in December 2012. Trains currently pass through Corvetto station between De Ferrari and Brignole without stopping. A possible further extension towards the eastern densely populated boroughs was planned, but the municipal administration intends to improve the public transport by investing in new tram lines instead of completing the extension of the light metro.The current stations of the metro line are Brin-Certosa, Dinegro, Principe, Darsena, San Giorgio, Sant'Agostino and De Ferrari; the line is 5.3 km (3.3 mi) long.
The city's hilly nature has influenced its public transport. The city is served by twofunicular railways(theZecca–Righi funicular, theSant'Anna funicular), theQuezzi inclined elevator, thePrincipe–Granarolo rack railway, and ten publiclifts.
The city's metro, bus andtrolleybusnetwork is operated byAMT(Azienda Mobilità e Trasporti S.p.A.). The Drin Bus is ademand responsive transportservice that connects the hilly, low-density areas of Genoa.The average time people spend commuting on public transit in Genova, for example to and from work, is 54 minutes on a weekday. 10% of public transit riders ride for more than 2 hours every day. The average time people wait at a stop or station for public transit is 12 minutes, while 13% of riders wait over 20 minutes on average every day. The average distance people usually ride in a single trip with public transit is 4 km, while 2% travel for over 12 km in a single direction.
Genoese painters active in the 14th century includeBarnaba da Modenaand his local followersNicolò da Voltriand at the same time, the sculptorGiovanni Pisanoreached Genoa to make the monument forMargaret of Brabant, whose remains are today housed in theMuseum of Sant'Agostino[it].
In the 16th century along with the flourishing trade between the Republic of Genoa and Flanders also grew the cultural exchanges. The paintersLucasandCornelis de Waellived in Genoa for a long time, where they played the role of a magnet for many Flemish painters likeJaan Roos,Giacomo Legi,Jan Matsys,Andries van EertveltandVincent Malo.
This creative environment also attracted the two most important Flemish painters,RubensandVan Dyck, who along withBernardo Strozzi.gave life to the Genoese Painting School of the 17th century.
Much of the city's art is found in its churches and palaces, where there are numerous Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo frescos. They are rich in works of art theCathedral, theChiesa del Gesù e dei Santi Ambrogio e Andrea[it]whereThe Circumcisionand the "Miracles of St. Ignatius" byRubens, theAssunzione della VerginebyGuido Reni. TheChurch of San Donatocontains works ofBarnaba da Modena,Nicolò da VoltriandJoos van Cleve,theChurch of Santo StefanoThe Stoning of St. Stephen[it]byGiulio Romanoand theChurch of Santa Maria Assuntathe sculptures byFilippo ParodiandPierre Puget, very interesting is theSanta Maria di Castello. But most of the works are kept in the Palaces likePalazzo Biancowhere "Ecce Homo" byCaravaggio, "Susannah and the Elders" byVeronese, and theGarden Party in AlbarobyMagnascoare kept;Palazzo Rossowith thePortrait of Anton Giulio Brignole-Sale[it]byvan Dyck;Cleopatra morentebyGuercinoand works ofDürer;Bernardo Strozzi;Mattia Preti;Veronese;Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceriawhere the "Portrait of Giovanni Carlo Doria on Horseback" byRubensandEcce Homo[it]byAntonello da Messina(see alsothe series of Ecce Homo by Antonello da Messina) are kept;Palazzo Tursiwith thePenitent MagdalenebyCanova; andPalazzo Realewhich contains works ofStrozzi,Gaulli,Tintoretto,van Dyck,Simon Vouet, andGuercino.
The most important Genoese painters are:Luca Cambiaso;BernardoandValerio Castello;Giovanni Benedetto Castiglione;DomenicoandPaolo Gerolamo Piola;Gregorio De Ferrari;Bernardo Strozzi;Giovanni Battista GaulliandAlessandro Magnasco. Sculptors includeFilippo Parodi, the wood sculptorAnton Maria Maragliano,Francesco Maria SchiaffinoandAgostino Carliniwho was member of theRoyal Academy.
The famous humanist author, architect, poet and philosopherLeon Battista Albertiwas born in Genoa on 14 February 1404.Simonetta Vespucci, considered the most beautiful woman of her time, was also born in Genoa. She is portrayed inThe Birth of VenusandPrimaverabySandro Botticelliand inPortrait of Simonetta VespuccibyPiero di Cosimo.
Genoa is also famous for its numerous tapestries which decorated the city's many salons. Whilst the patrician palaces andvillasin the city were and still are austere and majestic, the interiors tended to be luxurious and elaborate, often full of tapestries, many of which were Flemish.Famous is theGenoese lacecalled with its name of Turkish originmacramè. Very used in Genoa is thecobblestonecalledRisseuand a kind ofazulejocalledlaggioni.
Genoa has been likened by many to a Mediterranean New York, perhaps for its high houses that in the Middle Ages were the equivalent of today's skyscrapers, perhaps for the sea route Genoa-New York which in past centuries has been travelled by millions of emigrants. The architectRenzo Picassoin his visionary designs reinforces this strange affinity between the two cities.
In theMonumental Cemetery of Staglieno, you can admire some magnificent sculpture of the 19th century and early 20th century likeMonteverde AngelbyGiulio Monteverde, or works by artists such asAugusto Rivalta,Leonardo Bistolfi,Edoardo Alfieri,Santo Varni.
Amongst the most notable Genoese painters of the 19th century and of the first half of the 20th century areTammar Luxoro,Ernesto Rayper,Rubaldo Merello, and Antonio Giuseppe Santagata. The sculptorFrancesco Messinaalso grew up in Genoa.
In 1967 the Genoese historian, critic and curatorGermano Celantcoined the termArte Povera.Enrico Accatinowas another important art theorist andEmanuele Luzzatiwas the production designer and illustrator likeLorenzo Mongiardino, also a production designer and architect. Two other important artists areEmilio ScanavinoandVanessa Beecroft.
The yearlyInternational Cartoonists Exhibitionwas founded in 1972 inRapallo, near Genoa. A notable figure is the illustrator and comics artistGiovan Battista Carpi.
"Anonymous of Genoa" was one of the first authors in Liguria and Italy who wrote verses in the Vernacular.
It explained that in GenoaMarco PoloandRustichello da Pisa, in the prisons ofPalazzo San Giorgio, wroteThe Travels of Marco Polo. TheGolden Legendis a collection ofhagiographieswritten by the Archbishop of GenoaJacobus de Voragine. To animate the Genoese literary environment of the 16th century wereGabriello ChiabreraandAnsaldo Cebà, the latter best known for his correspondence withSara Copia Sullam. The city has been the birthplace of the historianCaffaro di Rustico da Caschifellone; of the poet "Martin Piaggio"; of the famous historian, philosopher and journalistGiuseppe Mazzini; of the writerPiero Jahier; of the poet Nobel PrizeEugenio Montale. The writer and translatorFernanda Pivano, the journalist "Vito Elio Petrucci" and the poetEdoardo Sanguineti, the literary criticCarlo Boinstead was born inSestri Levantenear Genoa. We have also remember the dialet poetEdoardo Firpo[it], the dialect "poeta crepuscolare" Giambattista Vigo, and the symbolistCeccardo Roccatagliata Ceccardi[it].
The city of Genoa has been an inspiration to many writers and poets among whom:Dino Campana,Camillo Sbarbaro[it],Gaspare Invrea[it]who wrote "The mouth of the wolf" andGiorgio Caproni. Between the alleys of the historical centre there is the OldLibreria Bozzi. The "Berio Civic Library" houses the precious manuscript entitled "The Durazzo Book of Hours". In the first half of the 20th century, the Mazzini Gallery's was a meeting place of many artists, writers and intellectuals among whomGuido Gozzano,Salvatore Quasimodo, Camillo Sbarbaro,Francesco Messina,Pierangelo Baratono[it],Eugenio Montale. In the 1930s theCircolimagazine was active in Genoa, and after World War II the "Il Gallo" magazine. Coveted and known from the 1960s to the 1980s was the Genoese literary lounge animated by the writerMinnie Alzona[it]. Dutch writerIlja Leonard Pfeijfferwrote "La Superba", a novel in which Genoa is prominently featured. This was followed by the autobiographical novel "Brieven uit Genua".
Since 1995, every June in Genoa theGenoa International Poetry Festivaltakes place, conceived byClaudio Pozzani[it]with the help ofMassimo Bacigalupo.
Genoa was a centre ofOccitan culturein Italy and for this reason it developed an important school oftroubadours:Lanfranc Cigala,Jacme Grils,Bonifaci Calvo,Luchetto Gattilusio,Guillelma de Rosers, andSimon Doria.
Genoa is the birthplace of the composerSimone Molinaro, violinist and composerNiccolò Paganini, violinistCamillo Sivoriand composerCesare Pugni. In addition, the famous violin makerPaolo de Barbieri. Paganini's violin,Il Cannone Guarnerius, is kept in Palazzo Tursi. The city is the site of theNiccolò Paganini Music Conservatorywhich was originally established as the Scuola Gratuita di Canto in 1829.
Alessandro Stradella, a composer of the middle baroque, lived in Genoa and was assassinated in 1682.
Felice Romaniwas a poet who wrote many librettos for the opera composers likeGaetano DonizettiandVincenzo Bellini.Giovanni Ruffiniwas another poet known for writing the libretto of the operaDon Pasqualefor its composer.
In 1847,Goffredo MameliandMichele Novarocomposed "Il Canto degli Italiani".
In 1857, debuted the work ofGiuseppe VerdientitledSimon Boccanegrainspired by the first Doge of Genoa, Simone Boccanegra.
Genoa is also the birthplace of the condcuctorFabio Luisiand of many opera singers likeGiuseppe Taddei,Margherita Carosio,Luciana Serra,Ottavio Garaventa[it],Luisa MaraglianoandDaniela Dessì.
The oldest theatre in Genoa was theTeatro del Falcone. Active since the 16th century, it was the second public theatre in Italy, only preceded by the one in theRepublic of Venice.It was followed by the Teatro delle Vigne which, however, along with other important theaters in the city (Teatro Margherita,Teatro Paganini, Teatro Colombo), was demolished between the 19th and 20th centuries, either to make way for urban expansion or due to damage caused bybombing of GenoaduringWorld War II.
TheTeatro Carlo Felice, the main opera theatre in the city, was built in 1828 in the Piazza De Ferrari, and named for the monarch of the thenKingdom of Sardinia(which included the present regions ofSardinia, Piedmont andLiguria). The theatre was the centre of music and social life in the 19th century. On various occasions in the history of the theatre, presentations have been conducted byMascagni,Richard Strauss,HindemithandStravinsky. Other prominent Genoese theaters are theTeatro Nazionale di Genoa, Politeama Genovese, Teatro di Sant'Agostino and Teatro Gustavo Modena.
On the occasion of theChristopher Columbuscelebration in 1992, new musical life was given to the area around the old port, including the restoration of the house ofPaganiniand presentations of thetrallalero, the traditional singing of Genoese dock workers.
The trallalero, traditional music in the Genoese dialect, is apolyphonicvocal music, performed by five men and several songs. Thetrallaleroare ancient songs that have their roots in the Mediterranean tradition. Another aspect of the traditional Genoese music is the "Nostalgic Song". The principal authors and singers of the Nostalgic Song in Genoese dialect areMario Cappello[it]who wrote the piece "Ma se ghe penso" (English: "But if I think about it"), a memory of Genoa by an emigrant to Argentina,Giuseppe Marzari[it],Agostino Dodero[it]up toI Trilli[it],Piero Parodi[it],Buby Senarega,Franca Lai[it]. The traditional Nostalgic Song will have a great influence on the so-calledScuola Genovese(Genoese School) of singer-songwriters that in some cases will mix the nostalgic feeling with pop and jazz atmospheres.
The singerNatalino Ottostarted the swing genre in Italy and his friend and colleaguePippo Barzizzawas a composer, arranger, conductor and music director. Other musicians, composers and arrangers areAngelo Francesco Lavagnino,Gian Piero Reverberi,Gian Franco Reverberi,Oscar Prudente,Pivio and Aldo De Scalzi.
Genoa in the second half of the 20th century was famous for an important school of Italian singer-songwriters, so-calledScuola Genovese, that includesUmberto Bindi,Luigi Tenco", "Gino Paoli", "Bruno Lauzi", "Fabrizio de André,Ivano Fossati,Angelo Branduardi" andFrancesco Baccini.Nino Ferrerwas also born in Genoa. In the 70s there were formed in Genoa numerous bands ofItalian progressive rocklikeNew Trolls,Picchio dal Pozzo,Latte e Miele, and Delirium. Today we point the bandBuio PestoandThe Bansheeband.
Some songs about the city of Genoa are part of Italian popular culture, like "Via del Campo" and "La Città Vecchia", both byFabrizio de André, "Genova per noi" byPaolo Conte, "La Casa in Via del Campo" the song also sung byAmalia Rodriguesand "Piazza Alimonda" the song about the facts ofGenoa 2001byFrancesco Guccini.
Fabrizio de Andréin 1984 released the albumCrêuza de mä, totally written in Genoese dialect.
I Madrigalisti di Genova is a vocal and instrumental group formed in 1958 which specialised in medieval and Renaissance repertoire
The city has numerous music festivals, among which are Concerts atSan Fruttuoso abbey, Premio Paganini, I Concerti di San Torpete, International Music Festival Genova, We Love Jazz, Gezmatz Festival & Workshop, and Goa-Boa Festival. In the town ofSanta Margherita Ligurethe ancient abbey of Cervara is often the site of chamber music.
Giovine Orchestra Genovese, one of the oldest concert societies in Italy, was founded in Genoa in 1912.
Genoa has been the set for many films and especially for the genre calledPolizieschi. Notable directors born in Genoa includePietro GermiandGiuliano Montaldo, the actors:Gilberto Govi,Vittorio Gassman,Paolo Villaggio,Alberto Lupo, the actresses:Lina Volonghi,Delia Boccardo,Rosanna Schiaffino,Eleonora Rossi Drago,Marcella Michelangeliand the pornographic actressMoana Pozzi. Before actorBartolomeo Pagano's cinema career, he was acamallo, which means stevedore, at the port of Genoa. His cinema career began with the filmCabiria, one of the first and most famous kolossal. In 1985 were filmed in Genoa some scenes ofPiratesbyRoman Polanski, finished shooting they left in the Old Harbour the galleonNeptune.
Some films set in Genoa:
The Genoese dialect (Zeneize) is the most important dialect of theLigurian language, and is commonly spoken in Genoa alongside Italian.Ligurianis listed byEthnologueas a language in its own right, of theRomancebranch, theLigurian Romance language, and not to be confused with theancient Ligurian language. Like the languages ofLombardy, Piedmont, and surrounding regions, it is ofGallo-Italicderivation.
There are two major football teams in Genoa:Genoa C.F.C.andU.C. Sampdoria; the former is the oldestfootball cluboperating in Italy (seeHistory of Genoa C.F.C.). The football section of the club was founded in 1893 byJames Richardson Spensley, an English doctor.Genoa 1893has won9 championships(between 1898 and 1924) and 1Coppa Italia(1936–37).U.C. Sampdoriawas founded in 1946 from the merger of two existing clubs, Andrea Doria (founded in 1895) and Sampierdarenese (founded in 1911). Sampdoria has won one Italian championship (1990–91 Serie A), 4 Coppa Italia, 1UEFA Cup Winners' Cup(1989–90) and 1Supercoppa Italiana. Both Genoa C.F.C. and U.C. Sampdoria play their home games in theLuigi Ferraris Stadium, which holds 36,536 spectators. Deeply felt is the derby calledDerby della Lanterna.
The international tennis tournamentAON Open Challengertakes place in Genoa.
Inrugby unionthe city is represented by CUS Genova Rugby, which is the rugby union team of theUniversity of GenoaSports Centre. CUS Genova had their peak in 1971–1973 when the team was runner-up of the Italian Serie A for three consecutive seasons and contested unsuccessfully the title toPetrarca Rugby. Amongst the CUS Genova players who representedItalyat international level the most relevant wereMarco Bollesanand Agostino Puppo.
In 1947 was founded theCUS Genova Hockeyand in 1968 the basketball clubAthletic Genova. The city hosted the FIFA World Cup in1934and1990, in 1988 theEuropean Karate Championshipsand in 1992 theEuropean Athletics Indoor Championships. In 2003 the indoor sporting arena,Vaillant Palace, was inaugurated.
The city lends its name to a particular type of a sailing boat so-calledGenoa sail, in 2007 the city hosts theTall Ships' Races.
Popular sauces of Genoese cuisine includePestosauce, garlic sauce calledAgliata, "Walnut Sauce" calledSalsa di noci[it],Green sauce,Pesto di fave[it],Pasta d'acciugheand the meat sauce calledtócco,not to be confused with theGenovese sauce, that in spite of the name is typical of theNeapolitan cuisine. The Genoese tradition includes many varieties of pasta asTrenette,Corzetti,Trofie,Pansoti[it],Croxetti, gnocchi and also:Farinata,Panissa[it]andCuculli.
Key ingredient of Genoese cuisine is thePrescinsêuaused among other things to prepare theSavory spinach pieand theBarbagiuaiand stillFocaccia con le cipolle[it],Farinata di ceci[it],Focaccette al formaggio[it]and theFocaccia con il formaggio[it]which means "Focaccia with cheese" that is even being considered forEuropean UnionPGIstatus. Other key ingredients are many varieties of fish asSardines,Anchovies(see alsoAcciughe ripiene[it]andAcciughe sotto sale[it]),Garfish,Swordfish,Tuna, Octopus,Squid,Mussels, theStoccafissowhich meansStockfish(see alsoBrandacujun[it]), theMusciameandGianchetti.
Other elements of Genoese cuisine include theLigurian Olive Oil, the cheeses likeBrös,U Cabanin[it],San Stè cheese,Giuncata[it], the sausages likeTesta in cassetta,Salame cotto[it]andGenoa salami. Fresh pasta (usuallytrofie,trenette) and "gnocchi" with pesto sauce are probably the most iconic among Genoese dishes. Pesto sauce is prepared with freshGenovese basil,pine nuts, gratedparmesanand pecorino mixed, garlic andolive oilpounded together.Liguria winesuch asPigato,Riviera Ligure di Ponente Vermentino[it],Sciacchetrà[it],Rossese di DolceacquaandCiliegiolo del Tigullio[it]are popular. Dishes of Genoese tradition include theTripecooked in various recipes like Sbira, thePolpettone di melanzane, theTomaxelle, theMinestrone alla genovese[it],theBagnun, the fish-consistingCiuppin(the precursor to San Francisco'sCioppino), theBuridda, theSeppie in zimino[it]and thePreboggion[it].
Two sophisticated recipes of Genoese cuisine are: theCappon magroand theCima alla genovese[it](a song byFabrizio De Andréis titled 'A Çimmaand is dedicated to this Genoese recipe). Originating in Genoa isPandolcethat gave rise toGenoa cake. The city lands its name to a special paste used to prepare cakes and pastries calledGenoiseand to thePain de Gênes.
In Genoa there are many food markets in typical nineteenth-century iron structures as Mercato del Ferro, Mercato Dinegro, Mercato di Via Prè, Mercato di piazza Sarzano, Mercato del Carmine, Mercato della Foce, Mercato Romagnosi. TheMercato Orientale[it]instead is in masonry and has a circular structure.
Genoa has left an extraordinary impression on many noted personalities.Friedrich Nietzscheloved Genoa and wrote some of his works there.Sigmund FreudandEzra Poundlived near Genoa inRapallo.Anton Chekhovsaid that Genoa "is the most beautiful city in the world," andRichard Wagnerwrote: "I have never seen anything like this Genoa! it is something indescribably beautiful".
Among the personalities of the 19th and 20th centuries who wrote about Genoa wereHeinrich Heine,Osip Mandelstam,Aleksandr Ivanovich Herzen,Mary Shelley,Oscar Wilde,John Ruskin,Charles Dickens,Mark Twain,Joseph Conrad,Vicente Blasco Ibáñez,Gustave Flaubert,Alexandre Dumas, Louis Énault,Valery Larbaud,Albert Camus,Paul Valéry,F. Scott Fitzgerald,Paul Klee.Giuseppe Verdi,Giacomo Puccini, andPietro Mascagni. Verdi in his work,Simon Boccanegra, is inspired by the medieval history of the city. The poetsDino Campana, Camillo Sbarbaro andGiorgio Capronihave made Genoa a recurring element of their poetic work.
Famous Genoese include: Sinibaldo and Ottobuono Fieschi (PopesInnocent IVandAdrian V), Giovanni Battista Cybo (PopeInnocent VIII) and Giacomo della Chiesa (PopeBenedict XV), navigatorsChristopher Columbus,Antonio de Noli,Enrico Alberto d'Albertis, Enrico de Candia (Henry, Count of Malta) andAndrea Doria, composersNiccolò PaganiniandMichele Novaro, Italian patriotsGiuseppe Mazzini,Goffredo MameliandNino Bixio, writer and translatorFernanda Pivano, poetEdoardo Sanguineti, Communist politicianPalmiro Togliatti, architectRenzo Piano, art curator and criticGermano Celant, Physics 2002 Nobel Prize winnerRiccardo Giacconi, Literature 1975 Nobel Prize winnerEugenio Montale, thecourt painterGiovanni Maria delle Piane (Il Mulinaretto) from theDelle Piane family, artistsVanessa Beecroft,Enrico Accatino, comediansGilberto Govi,Paolo Villaggio,Beppe Grillo, Luca Bizzarri, Paolo Kessisoglu and Maurizio Crozza; singer-songwritersFabrizio de André,Ivano Fossati,Umberto Bindi,Bruno LauziandFrancesco Baccini, whileLuigi TencoandGino Paoliare also known as Genoese singer-songwriters, although they are respectively fromCassineandMonfalcone; actorVittorio Gassman, and actressMoana Pozzi, Giorgio Parodi who conceived the motorcycle companyMoto Guzziwith Carlo Guzzi and Giovanni Ravelli.
Some reports say the navigator and explorer Giovanni Caboto (John Cabot) was also from Genoa, others say he was fromSavona.Saintsfrom Genoa includeRomulus,Syrus,Catherine of Genoa. Among the latest generations, musicians like Andrea Bacchetti, Giulio Plotino, Sergio Ciomei, Lorenzo Cavasanti, Stefano Bagliano and Fabrizio Cipriani, as well as academics and authors like Michele Giugliano and Roberto Dillon, help in keeping the name of the city on the international spotlight in different fields among the arts, technology and culture.
Corso Italiaruns for 2.5 km (1.6 mi) in thequartiereofAlbaro, linking two neighbourhoods of Foce andBoccadasse. The promenade, which was built in 1908, overlooks the sea, towards the promontory ofPortofino. The main landmarks are the small lighthouse of Punta Vagno, the San Giuliano Abbey, and the Lido of Albaro.
Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi[it], promenade overlooking the sea and 2 kilometres (1.2 miles) long,Nervi.
Promenade of the upper ring road, so-called "Circonvallazione a Monte" that includes: Corso Firenze, Corso Paganini, Corso Magenta, Via Solferino, Corso Armellini.
Walks can be made from the centre of Genoa following one of the many ancient paths between tall palaces and the "Creuze" to reach the higher areas of the city where there are magnificent places likeBelvedere Castelletto, the "Righi's district", the "Santuario di Nostra Signora di Loreto", the "Santuario della Madonnetta", the "Santuario di San Francesco da Paola".
Monte Fascegives a complete view of the city.
To reach the hinterland of theProvince of Genoaone can use the Genoa –CasellaOld Railway, 25 kilometres (16 miles) of railway between the Genoese mountains.
Genoa istwinnedwith:
As of 2013, Genoa had bilateral agreements with: