Thalassery cuisine

TheThalassery cuisinerefers to the distinctcuisinefromThalassery cityof northernKerala, which has blended in Arabian, Persian, Indian and European styles of cooking as a result of its long history as amaritime trading post.
Thalassery is known for its Thalasserybiryani(in local dialect,biri-yaa-ni).Unlike other biryani dishes Thalassery biryani is made usingkaima/jeerakasala, an Indianaromatic riceinstead of the usualbasmatirice.
Influences ofArabianandMughalcultures are evident, especially in the dishes of the Muslim community, though they have also become popular generally.
Thalassery also occupies a special place in the modern history of Kerala as the pioneer of itsbakeryindustry, since the first bakery was started by Mambally Bapu in 1880 and the Western-stylecakeswere introduced in 1883.
There are broadly two classes ofnon-vegetarian cuisinein Kerala: Malabar cuisine, which is from North Kerala, and Syrian-Christian cuisine which is from the South (TravancoreandKochiregions).
The two are clearly distinct: the former has Mughlai-Arab, Portuguese, British, Dutch, and French influences and the latter includes a mix of Kerala traditional dishes rich in coconut, as well as various recipes of Syrian, Jewish, Dutch, Portuguese and British origin.
Most dishes of Malabar cuisine, including Thalasserybiryani, involve frying inghee.
There are sweet and spicy variants and they are predominantly non-vegetarian. Some typical examples includeari pathiri,chatti pathiri,coin porottas,kallummakaya(mussels) fry,arikkadukka(stuffed fried mussels) andbiryaniswith chicken, mutton, prawns, fish and egg, as well as sweeteners such asaleesaandKadalapparippu ada.The sweeteners are mostly used as snacks to be consumed in the afternoon or early evening.Biryaniwas introduced into the region due to Islamic influence and the recipe gradually evolved into Thalasserybiryani.Biryaniis traditionally seen only as an occasional serving and not as staple food.
Thalassery faloodha is a regional variant of the Persian dessertFaloodeh. This is a cocktail of fruit salad, dry fruits such asraisins,pistachios,cashews,almonds(badam), rose milk and vanilla ice cream.
The Asian green mussel (Perna viridis) is favored in Thalassery dishes. The mussel is calledKallu-mma-kaya(fruit on the stone) orkadukka. They grow on rocky surfaces in theArabian Sea.
Other dishes includekallummakaya porichathu(fried mussel),arikkadukka(stuffed-in-shell mussel, steamed and fried),kallumakkaya ularthiyath(mussel stir-fry),kallumakkaya varattiyathu(mussel pickles).Elambakka(clams) are also popular.
The green mussels' popularity led farmers to employaquaculturein local rivers to increase supplies.Thalassery natives are known for their generous hospitality towards guests.
Another Thalassery dish iskozhi-kkalu,made with slicedtapioca.Pappadam-pazham kuzhakkalandaval um poriyum kuzhakkalare other popular dishes.
Muttamala,taripola,pazham nirachatu(fried banana filled with grated coconut sugar or jaggery),unnakaya,jaayi pola,chatti pathiriandari pathiriare other local dishes.
Porridgessuch asmutaari kachiyatu(ragiporridge), are popular.
Muttamalaandmuttasirkaare traditional sweets made using egg, wheremuttamalais yellow noodle-like made of egg-yolk andmuttasirkais white-colored, made ofegg whites. Typically,muttamalais spread over pieces ofmuttasirka, and they are further adorned with cherries.
Unnakkai(ഉന്നക്കായ്‌) also known asunnakaya,unnakka,kaai ada, andkaai porichathu, is a spindle-shaped sweet dessert made ofplantains. It is a famous Malabar snack often served at weddings,Iftarparties and other festivities.
It is prepared by stuffing plantain with flavored coconut (and optionally with egg) and fried inghee.
Chatti pathiriis similar tolasagnewhere layers of spiced (masala) beef or chicken mixture are placed between layers of egg-dipped pancakes and baked in oven. It is especially served in Malabar Muslim weddings and reception parties.
Thalassery biryani is a rice-baseddish blended with spices and chicken.As it is the onlybiryanirecipe inKerala cuisine,it can also be calledKerala biryani.Thalasserybiryaniis the only type ofbiryaniin the whole of Kerala which usesKaima ricefor preparation.
Other types of Biriyani which uses the same rice and preparation methods but vary a little bit because of addition of some ingredients arekannur biriyani,malappuram biriyani,ponnani biriyani,kochi kayees biriyani,calicut biriyani,kochi mint biriyaniandalapuzha biriyani.
The main difference between Thalassery biryani andotherbiryanisis that it uses only Khaima/Jeerakasala rice—a short-grain, thin rice which is also calledbiryanirice inKerala. The dish does not usebasmatirice.
Biryaniis an exotic dish ofMughalorigin, but this variant is an indigenous recipe ofMalabar. It is a symbol of the cultural amalgamation of Mughal and Malabari cuisines. The Mughals brought the cuisine ofbiryanifrom Samarkand, and later variations ofbiryanideveloped in different parts of India.
Thalasserybiryanimay have come to the region because of the influence of the Muslim rulers of Mysore and Arkot.
Thalasserybiryaniis a cultural embodiment and is reminiscent of foreign influences in Malabar; it is a reminder of the Mughal-Arab cultural influence in North Kerala due to the trade that lasted for many centuries before the 1900s and the emigration to the Middle East of locals from the 1970s onwards.Thalasserysea portwas an export trade centre for spices where a convergence of European, Arab and Malabar cultures occurred.
The name "Thalassery biryani" (Malayalam:തലശ്ശേരി ബിരിയാണി,Tamil:தலச்சேரி பிரியாணி,Hindi:त लश्शेरि बिरयानी,Arabic:برياني تلشیری) originates from Thalassery, a town in the coastal Malabar region in North Kerala, India.  The word "biryani" is derived from thePersianwordbiryān (n)(بریان) which means "fried" or "roasted".Biryaniwas believed to have been invented in the kitchens of theMughalEmperors; Thalasserybiryaniis one of many ways of preparingbiryanidishes. In the local dialect-Malayalam, there is a small variation in pronunciation. It is called "biri-yaa-ni" instead of "bir-yani".
Thalasserybiryaniis a strong indication of Islamic cultural influence in the region. The dish is traditionalMappila(Malabar Muslims) or Malabar cuisine. Ancient written records, except in a few treatises by historians, citing the origin of Mappilas are rare.
The stories about the conversion of the lastCheraEmperorCheraman Perumal(Rama Varma Kulasekhara Perumal) to Islam from Mahodayapuram (Kodungallur) byMalik Deenarand the subsequent conversion of Perumal's sister and nephew residing inDharmadam(a village located north ofThalassery) are generally believed to be the origin of Islam in North Malabar.
Perumal is believed to have left Kerala from an erstwhile feudal province in the region namedPoyanad(Poya Nadu, "The province from whence he left") which lies in between the Thalassery and Kannurtaluks(governed by local chieftains namedRanduthara Achanmarbefore 1947).
Perumal's nephew Mahabali, is believed to be the firstAli Rajaof theArakkal kingdom(the Sultanate ofLakshadweepand Cannanore), the sole Muslim kingdom of Kerala. The Arakkal kingdom controlled Dharmadam until the formation of Kerala state on 1 November 1956.
The legend shows that these incidents had a significant impact in the introduction of Islamic culture to Thalassery.
In the ancient times, Thalassery—an erstwhile seaport in North Malabar—was geographically in the convergence point of three regional provinces,Chirakkal,KottayamandKadathanad. It was also the end point of the "Perya pass" coming from the eastern hilly areas ofCoorgandWayanadmaking it an important trade center of spices in Malabar.
Arab traders, Arkot rulers and the invasion ofSultanate of Mysorewere other important factors which introduced and developed various Islamic culture in the region.
During the Muslim holy month ofRamzan, Malabar dishes are made in abundant varieties.The Muslim community of Malabar differs culturally; the lifestyle of the trader communities near the coastal towns differs from that of the farming communities in the inland and hilly areas.
Malabar cuisine varies throughout the region. In the modern era as communication improved exponentially, the differences of culture between coastal and hilly area became inconspicuous resulting in the amalgamation of food culture within the Muslim community in Malabar .
The Mughlai cuisine had a significant influence upon Malabar recipes. Mughali recipes includingbiryani,kebabandnaanspread throughout India.The ingredients included rice,maida, wheat and there was extensive use ofghee(clarified butter) and oils for preparation. Sweet delicacies were made fromjaggery(unrefined sugar).
Most of these dishes are non-vegetarian; chicken, mutton, lamb and beef are used but pork is not consumed due to religious regulations. Dishes range from mild to extremely spicy, and the dishes have distinct aromas.
In Islamic food culture non-vegetarian dishes must behalal-compliant,as required for Muslims by religious directive. Malabar Mappila dishes are preferred by some societies to be compliant with thehalalmethod of food processing.
Thalasserybiryaniuses a unique, fragrant, small-grained, thin rice variety namedkaimaorjeerakasala. This rice, even though small in size, is different from the common small rice used in many Indian rice dishes.
Kaima/jeerakasalais not round, unlike other common smaller variants, and its fragrance is another distinct feature.  Other kinds of rice that could be used arejeera rice,jeerakasembaor small Bangladeshibiryanirice.
The rice is white, short (small) grained, thin (not plump), but it is the aroma of these rice varieties which make then distinctive.The recipes and cuisine of Thalasserybiryanihave clear differences from otherbiryanivariants.
Kaima/jeerakasalarice does not need pre-soaking, water is only used to clean it. After adequate boiling no water should remain in the cooking dish as it should have been evaporated completely. This is a major difference from other rice preparation, in which water has to be drained off after cooking.
Gheerice is blended withmasalausing thedumprocess (a method of cooking by sealing a lid tightly and placing hot charcoal on it). Thebiryani masalaandgheerice are arranged in layers inside the dish. Meat is cooked withmasalaon slow fire; it is layered with rice and the lid of the container is sealed withmaidadough or a loin cloth. Hot coal or charcoal is placed then above the lid.
Thalasserybiryaniis aPakki biryani. There are two types ofbiryani,"Pakki" and "Kacchi". InPakkistyle, thegheerice is added to the fully cooked chicken-masalamix and then cooked by thedumprocess, whereas inKacchistyle thegheerice is added to the half-cooked chicken and then cooked till it is fully cooked or thedumprocess is used.
Specially dressed chickenis poured into themasaladish. The chicken is slowly cooked in themasala, and gets blended well with the juices ofmasalaand spices.
The Thalasserybiryanirecipe has additional distinct features; unlike otherbiryanisit is not oily because of thedumprocess used for preparation. A unique blend of spices is added and thekaimarice also adds a unique flavour. No oil is used to make the chicken, which is added raw into themasalamix.
For the recipe, seeThalassery Biryaniat the Wikibooks Cookbook subproject
Common side dishes served with Thalasserybiryaniare coconut-mintchammandi(biryanichutney),South Asian pickleandthairu. After the meal, hot lime-black tea (known among the Muslim community assulaimani) is served; this adds a special taste after the main course and is an aid to digestion.  Lime tea is a common "afters" in the Malabar region, especially with a rice-based main course.
Fried Indiananchovyorsmeltcan be served as a starter if required and this is garnished with chopped onion, curry leaves andlimejuice squeezed over it. Fried chicken in smaller pieces is also seen in some fiestas as accompaniments or as starters.
Daahashamaniwater, a medicated herbal water, is preferred to be used when drinking water withbiryani.Daahashamaniis anayurvedicmedicine and natural thirst reliever and digestive aid prepared by mixing dry ginger,cardamom,cloves,corianderseeds,mimosa catechu,sapanwood,vetiver,puncturevineandsandal wood, it is usually available in local markets.
Thalasserybiryaniis popular and is often served in Malabar in weddings and other celebrations and parties, and is an unavoidable dish for the Muslim community.
Even thoughsadyais the traditional cuisine for Hindu weddings in the region, some Hindus and Christians often servebiryani, mainly because it is easier to prepare than other main course dishes and is a complete food that avoids the extra effort of making curry.
Thalasserybiryaniis rich in nutrients as it is a rice-spice dish. It is high in proteins and carbohydrates, and is also a source of minerals and vitamins. Nutritional value (according toU.S Dept. of Agriculture) of the spices is mentioned in the notes.
The dish contains unsaturated and saturated fats; the amount of saturated fat can be reduced by adjusting the quantities of hydrogenated vegetable oil (vanaspati) andghee.
The Malayalam movieUstad Hotelis based on the preparation of Malabarbiryani. The film is about a restaurant that specialises in Malabar cuisines made without adulteration and based on traditional recipes. The film shows customers choosing the restaurant for its authentic dishes.
The fictional restaurant depicted in the film is a prominent destination for food lovers as the cuisine is based on genuine Malabar cuisine. The restaurant serves their flagship dish—Thalasserybiryani—to all customers who come there for the first time, so admiring the dish that whenever they come back to the city they choose this restaurant and order it again.
The film shows the importance of fiesta in Malabar culture. Making the uniqueness of Malabarbiryanithe theme of a blockbuster film shows how important the dish is in the Malabar region and throughout Kerala.