Poke (dish)

Poke(/ˈpoʊkeɪ/POH-kay;Hawaiianfor 'to slice' or 'cut crosswise into pieces';sometimes anglicized aspokéto aid pronunciation as two syllables)is a dish of dicedraw fishtossed in sauce and served either as anappetizeror a main course.
Most fish were cultivated in largefishpondsor caught near shore in shallow waters and reefs.Fishing and fish caught beyond the reef in the deep sea were reserved for chiefs according to thekapu systemwhich regulated the way of life inAncient Hawaii.
Poke began as cut-offs from catch to serve as a snack.Fish was preferably eaten for immediate consumption, raw withsea salt,inamona, and sometimes seasoned with blood from the gills.A typical relish was made ofinamonamixed with driedʻalaʻala(octopus inksac),ake(fish liver), and salt. The poke was accompanied withlimuand a large bowl ofpoi.
When CaptainJames Cookarrived in 1778 he brought along with him onion seeds.He was followed in the 1790s by Spanish horticulturistFrancisco de Paula Marin, who was the first to cultivate and raise tomatoes. De Paula Marin would further popularize the planting of onions which became a popular accompaniment.The onion cultivar known assweet Maui onionwould be developed over the years.
Continued Western influence eventually led to the abolition of thekapu. The prohibition on eating certain types of fish was lifted in 1819 and by 1839Kamehameha IIIhad opened up fishing grounds beyond the reefs.By this time,Hawaiianswere first introduced to salmon, as contract laborers sent to thePacific Northwestin the fur trading and timber industries. Salmon would have likely been prepared aspokeinitially which would later evolve intolomi salmon.
Beginning in the mid-19th century, immigrants fromChinaandJapanmoved to the islands as plantation laborers, bringing with them foods such asnamerō,soy sauceandsesame oil.
Tuna fishing has been important in Pacific Island countries for centuries, but prior to 1900 this
activity was restricted to small-scale fishing, mainly using canoes just outside the reef.Between the 1920s and 1930s, almost all the fishing vessels in Hawaiian waters belonged to the Japanese, primarilylongline fishingforalbacoreandskipjack tuna.Most of these tuna would becannedfor export, but some would be reserved fresh for the local market.By the 1970s, the increasing affluence of the Japanese consumer created greater demand forsashimigrade tuna.
An increase inyellowfin tunaandbigeye tunalanding between the 1970s and 1980s resulted in competition for the fresh tuna market, reducing the available market forskipjack tuna. Yellowfin and bigeye tuna are preferred over skipjack tuna for sashimi in the export markets. Skipjack tuna is usually priced lower on average but is widely appreciated by locals. In 1985, the average price for yellowfin tuna was 26% higher than bigeye tuna, increasing to 58% by 1991. Flash-frozen skipjack and yellowfin tuna imported to Hawaii from Japan also competes with the Hawaii fishery for a share of the local market.
According to the food historianRachel Laudan, the present form of poke became popular around the 1970s.However, poke made at home or found at seafood counters were only limited to one or two "flavors", onion and/or limu.Sashimiwhich was already popular by this time evolved into a Japanese-Hawaiian sashimi salad-like fusion, very similar totataki.
In the early 1990s, a group of local chefs advocated for a distinct Hawaiian fusion style, cuisine which drew from local ingredients and a fusion of ethnic culinary influences.Master chefSam Choy, was a founding chef of this movement, started apokefestival in 1992 which consisted of apokerecipe contest for professional chefs and amateur cooks. The initial contest offered more than $15,000 in cash and prizes.Chefs showcased many new combination of flavors, and made the rather common dish into an upscale item at restaurants.
There are manycommercial caught local fishthat can be eaten raw according to theFDA.However, the most commonly caught fish in Hawaiian waters for poke found at local seafood counters include (alternate Japanese names are indicated in parentheses):
The influence of the Japanese fishing market still remains strong, that these fish are often recognized locally by both theirHawaiianandJapanesenames. But it also recalls that deep sea fishing was not an ordinary practice to the ancient Hawaiians who were adept at naming many fish species.
Kona kampachi(kanpachi) isfarmedoff the coast of theIsland of Hawaii. Imported fish such asyellowtail(hamachi) andfarmed salmon, such asAtlantic(including Atlantic "Scottish"), King Salmon (fromNew Zealand) are hugely popular. Wild salmon largely remains unsafe because of the risk ofparasites.Most imported fish from Japan are typically served as sashimi or forsushibut are suitable forpokeas well, such asmadai,maguro, andsaba.Most freshshellfish, including octopus, can be safely consumed raw with caution but are often cooked (or at least cured) especially when being sold commercially as poke.
Whilepokeis associated as a raw fish dish, in contemporary times, it is rather freeform. It can be cured likecevicheor cooked, not made with fish, nor does it have to be cut into cubes. Chef Sam Choy had popularized "fried poke".Pipikaula(Hawaiian-style beef jerky),ake(rawbeef liver) and tripe,andtartareof beef can be prepared intopokeas well.Imitation crab(kanikama) is also common, along withtofua common vegetarian option.
The traditional relish isinamona,alaea salt, andlimu. The most common flavor profile today is simplysoy sauceandsesame oil, followed by additions ofMaui onionsandscallions, andogo.Srirachaandmayonnaiseare the base for the popular "spicy ahi".
Other additions includeoyster sauce,ponzu,teriyaki sauce,chili peppersorcrushed red peppers,sweet chili sauce,jalapeños,sea urchinsorsalmon roe,tobiko(ormasago), choppedkimchi,ginger, shreddedimitation crab, toastedsesame seeds, orwasabi(orhot mustard).
California rollpokeincludesavocadoandcucumbers.Around 2020, the ginger-scallion condiment (geung yung) used in the Chinese dishcold ginger chickenhas become a mildly popularpokeflavor.Other ingredients includemushrooms,fried onions,cilantro,pineapple,edamameand a variety of other vegetables.
Hawaii ChefAlan Wong, another Hawaii Regional Cuisine founding member, was a guest judge on the showTop Chefwas inspired by a contestant to create a similar Mediterranean-inspiredʻahi pokeusinglemons,lemon zest,capers,shisoandcanned anchovies.
Since the 1960s, most local grocery chains and standalonefish markets, and sometimes oldersuperettes, in Hawaii have dedicated counters forpokewhere it is made in bulk and sold by weight. A few fast casual restaurants will prepare them made to order. Locally, a "pokebowl" meanspokeserved overcooked rice.In dining restaurants, it is often served as liketartare(sans egg yolk) ortostadawith chips of fried wonton wrappers or withprawn crackers, sometimes referred to as "poke nachos".In casual sushi restaurants,pokefillsinarisushi.
Pokebecame increasingly popular inNorth Americastarting in 2012.From 2014 to mid-2016, "the number of Hawaiian restaurants onFoursquare, which includes those that serve poke," doubled, going from 342 to 700.Many of these restaurants serve both traditional and modern versions of the dish. A modern version of apoké bowlfeatures fully customizable ingredients that are often carefully arranged likebibimbap, to allow the customer to mix the dish before consuming it.
One of these larger chains based inChicagobecame embroiled in controversy in 2018, after it sentcease and desistletters to specificpokeshops in Hawaii and on the mainland. SomeNative Hawaiianstold store owners to stop using the words "aloha" and "poke" in its business name. As a result, several shops were forced to rebrand their businesses.
The annual festival started in 1992 bySam Choystill occurs, although going through a couple different hosts. In 2023, chefs Ronnie Rainwater andAarón Sánchezwere the guest judges at the competition. The first place prize offering in 2022 was a $1,000 cash prize and 6-night stay at the sponsoring hotel.Started in 2009, a 3-day "I Love Poke" festival is held annually inSan Diegoto celebrate the dish.
Raw fish dishes are not uncommon. Common throughoutOceaniais'ota 'ika(orpoisson cru). There are also the European fishcarpaccioandtartare, Chineseyu sheng, Koreanhoe-deopbap, Latin Americanceviche, and Japanesenamerō,sashimiandtataki. InInuit cuisine, fish was best eaten raw.Southeast Asiancounterparts include Malaysianhinavaandumaiand Filipinokinilawandkilawin, known askelagueninGuam.
TheIlocanodishpoqui poqui, a scrambled egg dish with grilled eggplants and tomatoes, likely derived its name frompoke, from returning Ilocanosakadas.