Apulian cuisine

Apulian cuisineis characterised above all by the importance given to raw materials, both land and sea, and by the fact that all the ingredients are designed to enhance and not alter the basic flavours of the products used.
Therefore, it has a large variety of seasonal vegetables, legumes and seafood. Moreover, even if there are some common dishes, the recipes vary from province to province and, sometimes, from city to city: for example, the typical recipes of theprovinces of Taranto,BrindisiandBari, located on the sea, are not the same as those practiced in theprovince of Foggia, which is more hilly, and that ofLecce, which is more inland.
There are many recipes in this cuisine, which has a particularity that distinguishes it from others, that of offering different dishes in relation to the different seasons, so that during the milder seasons, that is in spring and summer, preference is given to vegetables, fish and seafood, while in the other seasons legumes predominate, as well as home-made pasta seasoned with various sauces, alone or combined with vegetables or fish.
Apulia'ssagrefood festivals showcase local cuisine, cooking traditions and culture. While not unique to Apulia -sagrefestivals are one of Italy's best kept food secrets- food is an integral part of the region's identity and these are intensely social occasions.
After the period ofMagna Graecia, Apulia never had political autonomy. It was always a peripheral region of a larger state. From the Middle Ages until theItalian unificationin the 19th century Apulia was controlled by theKingdom of Naplesand later theKingdom of the Two Sicilies. It was governed fromNaplesinCampania, the capital of both kingdoms.
The nobility, which owned large tracts of land in Apulia, preferred to live in Naples. If they spent any time in Apulia, it was for brief inspections of their properties and the collection of profits. As a consequence the cuisine of the nobility started to disappear in Apulia during the 18th and 19th centuries. The cuisine of themonasteries, which were present in large numbers in Apulia, never became part of the local tradition. As charitable institutions which supported the poor, the food they served them was limited to soups.
Because of these factors, the cuisine of common people defines the gastronomy of Apulia. Historically Apulia was a poor region, which meant that ingredients had to be affordable, local and seasonal. Due to this frugality vegetables attained an important role. Dishes are simple, without elaborate preparations.The food of Apulia is often characterized aspeasant foodorcucina povera, the 'cuisine of the poor'. In spite of this, the dishes are richer and more complex than the number of ingredients and the simplicity of the cooking methods would suggest.
The first cookbook on Apulian cuisine wasIl Libro della Cocinafrom 1504, which covered the cooking of the nobility. It contains some recipes which are not Apulian, but which became part of the local tradition over time. This demonstrates that Apulians were eager to adopt cooking practices from other regions and integrate them into their own cuisine.
In modern times Apulian cuisine distinguishes between appetizers, first and second courses. Separate courses are a relatively new addition to the cuisine, because in the past a meal used to consist of a single dish. Many dishes now served as appetizers were inspired by single dishes which made up an entire meal. Some dishes which are now served as first courses can still be quite filling and rich in ingredients, which reflect their use as a single dish for the entire meal.
Many foods which are eaten as a snack or appetizer are based on bread. Thepuccia(pluralpucce) is a small, flat and round bread which may or may not have olives mixed through its dough. The version with olives is eaten as is, but the version without olives is sliced open and stuffed with many kinds of vegetables, meat or seafood.Thepanzerottois aturnoverfilled with various stuffings. A combination oftomatoesandmozzarellais popular. They are similar to thecalzoneof Naples, but are smaller and use a softer dough. They can be baked in the oven likecalzone, but deep frying is traditional.Focaccia Bareseis a local variation offocacciaoriginating fromBari, which is covered with tomatoes,oreganoand optionallyolives, witholive oildrizzled on top.
Therusticowhich is popular in the area ofLeccedoesn't use bread butpuff pastryas a base. The pastry is filled withbéchamelsauce,mozzarellaandtomato sauceand then baked in the oven.Scagliozzimay be the only popular way to eatpolentain Apulia.Polentais prepared normally and then allowed to cool and dry. It is then cut in slices and deep fried.Pettoleare deep-friedcroquettesmade from a liquid batter of flour with yeast, which may include boiledpotatoes. There are both flavoured versions with small pieces of fish or vegetables and sweet versions.
Taralliare popular toroidalcrackersmade with flour, olive oil, white wine and salt along with other ingredients. The classical version usesfennelseeds, but they come in many variations and can be savoury or sweet.They are eaten as is or dunked in wine.
Bread is a very important part of the Apulian diet. The vast majority ofwheatcultivated in Apulia isdurum wheat, with minimal production ofcommon wheat.For this reason many types of bread are made entirely or partially with durum wheat. The most highly regarded breads arePane di Altamura,Pane di LaterzaandPane di Monte Sant'Angelo.Pane di Altamurawas grantedProtected Designation of Origin(PDO) status in theEuropean Union(EU) and is made entirely with durum wheat flour, just likePane di Laterza.Pane di Monte Sant'Angelostands out because it is traditionally made with only common wheat flour.
Frisella is a bread with a long shelf life, making it a suitable alternative to fresh bread. It has a toroidal shape with a hole in the center, which facilitated stringing them together for storage and transport. The dough is made with either wheat, durum or barley flour. After a first stage of baking in the oven, the friselle is cut horizontally and then baked in the oven again until they are completely dry. Before consumption the friselle is soaked in water until it is still crisp but not mushy. It is then eaten with a variety of toppings.
Instead of disposing ofstalebread, Apulians have invented many dishes to make it palatable.Cialledda, also calledaquasale, is one of these. After soaking bread in water to soften it, it is combined with tomatoes, olive oil and salt.The dishpancottois similar, but more elaborate with more ingredients.Stale bread is also used to make drybreadcrumbswhich can be used a garnish for several dishes.
The cheese from Apulia which is most popular internationally is the fresh cheeseburrata. This cheese consists of an outer shell ofmozzarellawhich is filled withstracciatellaand cream. Onlyburrata diAndriais protected under theProtected Geographical Indication(PGI) status by the EU, so the generic name is also used forburrataproduced outside Apulia. The PDO cheeses of Apulia are the agedcaciocavallo Silano,canestrato Puglieseand freshmozzarella di bufala Campana. Other cheeses includecaciocavallo podolico,cacioricotta Pugliese,pallone di Gravinaand several varieties ofricotta, of whichricotta fortehas an especially strong flavor.
Just like other regions inSouthern Italy, olive oil is the principal cooking fat.While table olives are now frequently served as appetizers, they were even more important in the past as they were often the only available food next to bread.Apulia is Italy's largest producer of olive oil and table olives,with many local varieties. Five of these oils and one table olive, respectively theCollina di Brindisi,Dauno,Terra di Bari,Terra d'Otranto,Terre TarentineandLa Bella della Daunia, are protected under the PDO status.
Many different sweet fruits are enjoyed as a dessert at the end of a meal.Thearancia del Garganoandclementine del Golfo di Tarantoare respectively anorangeand clementine which enjoy PDO status. Thelimone femminello del Garganois alemonwith PGI status. The fruit of theprickly pearcactus which dots the countryside is consumed as well.
Soups are especially popular as winter dishes, with a main role for vegetables along with legumes and short pasta shapes. Bread is often included as well, either on the side or included in the soup.The bread dishescialleddaandpancottomay also be prepared in the form of a soup if a vegetable broth is added.A soup from theSalentois calledcecamariti, literally meaning 'blinding the husband'. The dish received its name from its impressive appearance, which conceals its easy preparation.There are also fish soups, which feature a rich broth due to the addition of small fish with bones included.
Eggs are an essential ingredient for pasta inNorthern Italy, but in Apulia and other regions of Southern Italy onlysemolinaand water is used. This was done mainly for economic reasons, because eggs were considered too valuable for an everyday dish like pasta. Omitting eggs from pasta dough allowed their use in other dishes.
Orecchietteis considered the signature pasta shape of Apulia, but there are many other shapes as well. These includecavatelli,capunti(typical of theMurgia plateau),troccoli(from theDaunia),laganeandsagne.Orecchietteis frequently combined with friedcime di rape.Next to the familiar combinations of pasta with tomato sauces, meat and seafood, there are some typically Apulian pairings with vegetables. For example, the dishciceri e triauseschickpeasandlagane con puré di faveusesbroad beanpuree.
Pasta can also be made withgrano arso, 'burnt grain'. In the past the remaining ears of grains would be gathered from the grain fields after the grain harvest, when the grain stubbles were burnt to clear the field. While this used to be done out of extreme poverty or frugality, pasta made withgrano arsois now considered a delicacy.
Broad beansandcime di rapeare the iconic vegetables of Apulia. The broad bean has been thestaple foodin the region for thousands of years. In its dried and split form it is the main ingredient of the famous dishfave e cicoria. Other frequently used vegetables includefennel,zucchini,artichoke,bell pepper,cauliflower,eggplant, wild leafchicory, thecardoncello mushroomandbroccoli.Thecarciofo Brindisinoandlenticchia di Altamuraare respectively artichokes and lentils which have attained the PGI status from the EU.
Many vegetables are preserved with thesott'oliomethod, meaning 'under the oil'. First vegetables are boiled in whitewine vinegar. After they are combined with spices and herbs they are placed in jars. The vegetables are then covered by filling the jar with olive oil, so that they are not in contact with air. This allows the vegetables to be preserved for up to year and also enhances their flavor.
Apulian cooking also uses some less widely known vegetables. Thetassel hyacinthgrows widespread in the wild and is used for its bulb. Known aslampascioniin Apulia, these are usually boiled in water and seasoned with olive oil, vinegar, salt and black pepper. They can also be grilled or deep-fried.
The black chickpea (ceci neri) was consumed more often before the 1950s, but production dropped as it was replaced by more profitable crops and legumes with shorter cooking times. Today production is centered in the Murgia plateau.Because they have a stronger taste than the white variety, they are often just boiled in water and served with oil, possibly combined with a small type of pasta.
Thegrass pea(cicerchia) used to be popular in cookbooks of the 1600s, but has since fallen out of favor because the plant provides a limited yield and is toxic if eaten as a staple. In recent times the crop has been rediscovered and is cultivated in theAlta Murgiaand the Salento. It is used in soups and stews.
Because Apulia is a peninsula, it has a long coastline and the sea is never far away. This has made seafood an important part of its cuisine. The large variety of seafood that is available includessea bream,octopus,prawns,oysters,anchovies,musselsandclams. The region has been compared withJapanfor its love of raw fish.
One of the more popular dishes istiella, a slow-cooked dish layered with rice, potatoes and mussels.This version originates fromBari, but there is plenty of local variation in the recipe, with different versions originating fromFoggia,Tarantoand the Salento. Some of these don't even include seafood.Scapeceis a fish dish fromGallipoli, Apuliawhich is notable for its preservation method. Similar toescabeche, fish is fried and then preserved in red wine vinegar with breadcrumbs andsaffronto greatly extend its shelf life.Some dishes usedried and salted cod(baccalà) likeBaccalà in umido alla pugliese, one of the very few imported ingredients.Mussels are the most used seafood, especially inTaranto, with mussles are prepared dishes likeCozze gratinate,Spaghetticon le cozze,Tubettinicon le cozze, Impepata di cozze(Peppered mussles) etc...
In the past meat was a scarcity due to its expense. For this reason, it is not an important component of the cuisine of Apulia.Beefwas lacking almost entirely from the diet in the past, because cattle was used for farm work or reared for milk. It was slaughtered only when it was very old. Likewise, the prevalence ofhorse meatis explained by the slaughter of lame horses which were no longer able to work.Lamb,poultryandrabbit(often reared on farms) and to a lesser degree game were the main sources of meat. A farm used to raise a single pig, of which every part would be used when it was slaughtered. Some of its meat would be consumed directly, but most of it would be preserved as ham, sausages andSalami likeCapocollo di Martina Franca,Prosciutto di Faeto[it],Soppressata di Martina FrancaandZampina.
The Apulian recipe forragùdiffers from the version prepared in other Italian regions. Traditionally it uses sun-dried tomato pulp (conserva) as a base, which is then fried in olive oil with some water, fresh tomatoes and optionallychili pepperand red wine. Then meatbraciole(orinvoltini) are added, which can be used together with the sauce to dress pasta dishes.Apart from quality cuts of meat, there are also recipes which call foroffalin the form of roulades andpig's trotters.
The ingredients for sweets are sometimes influenced by the Middle East and includealmonds,figs,hazelnuts,pistachiosand spices. The traditional sweetener ishoney, which is still frequently used. Fresh soft ricotta is used as well.
In 2017 Apulia overtookVenetoas the largest wine producing region in Italy, with a total production of 9.070.112 hectoliters.It has been producing grapes with a high alcohol content for ages, which were used by other regions in Italy andFrancefor mixing with their own wines. Since the 1990s Apulian winemakers have started taking more risks and using more innovative winemaking techniques. Today it produces wines with many different indigenous grape varieties. The most well-known wine internationally isPrimitivodiManduria, but there are many other varieties such as theNegroamaro,Bombino Bianco,Pampanuto,Verdeca,Bianco d'AlessanoandSusumaniello.