Question: What settings do board hardware allow with either foot forward?
About the article "Wakeboarding", section "Boards".

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Boards are buoyant with the core usually made up of foam, honeycomb or wood mixed with resin and coated with fiberglass.
Metal screws are inserted to attach bindings and fins.
The configuration and positioning of the fins and bindings vary according to rider preference and are adjusted for a variety of reasons.
A wakeboarder will change the type of fins used for different types of tricks.
For example, shallow fins (which do not protrude into the water very far) are better for surface tricks, such as flat spins.
Many newer board models contain small moulded fins on the board, allowing the rider to use smaller centre fins and also to create less drag.
Board hardware is often set up to allow a rider to ride "Switch" or "Fakie," with either foot forward.
Such setups are usually symmetrical in layout.
New riders normally set up their boards to be comfortable to ride with their "natural" foot forward, which does not allow for riding Switch without modifications.
For best results and easy wakeboarding, this sport is normally done in lakes, though the intercoastal waterways are also becoming popular.
Because of the construction of a caster boards, riding one (or "caster boarding") is more akin to snowboarding or surfboarding than skateboarding.
The stance is perpendicular to the board, and the feet do not need to leave the board to propel it.
While riding, one can also carve back and forth, making heel-and-toe side turns (see steering).
Initially, one places the front foot (depending on preference) on the front of the board, which is generally uni-directional.
Once on the board, and riding, the independent motion capabilities of the front and back of the board allow it to twist along the lengthwise axis.
This lets the rider turn or even propel the board forward without removing his or her feet from the board.
The motion requires that the board be twisted back and forth so as to move either just the back foot or both the front and back feet side to side, essentially pushing the board forward at the outside of the movement, before the foot is brought back in the other direction.
In principle, the act is similar to what is required to propel one who is riding inline skates forward, as opposed to how skateboarders push with their feet on the ground.
Riding a caster board requires using a twisting motion of hips and legs.
A rider or "caster boarder" gains speed because each wheel is mounted on a 30° slant on the bottom of each deck.
When each deck is pushed to the side, it causes the board to be pushed upward by the wheels' rotation against the gradient of the mounts.
This creates potential energy that is then released moves back down under the rider's weight and its own combined.
The weight pushing the board back down causes the wheels to turn to face straight again.
While riding on a caster board, the increase in height is barely noticeable unless the rider twists the board along the vertical axis too hard, causing stability to be momentarily reduced.
Caster boarding has been introduced into many school curricula as a means of teaching the basic movement principles that govern board-sports.
The success in its ability to engage with pupils not interested in sport was assessed in a 12 week, 6 secondary school case study in the UK carried out by Curriculum Ex. 
The distinguishing characteristic of an alpine snowboard stance is relatively aggressive binding angles.
Most snowboarders riding soft-boots tend to ride binding angles anywhere from -5°/+15° (rear/front) to 5°/20° and anywhere in between—whereas an average stance for an alpine snowboarder might be from 45°/50° to 55°/60°.
A few alpine snowboarders who prefer very narrow boards will run angles as high as 75°.
Alpine snowboarding stances tend to be highly individual, based upon such factors as technique, physiology, equipment, riding style, and personal preference.
Small adjustments to an alpine snowboarding stance can yield dramatic effects, so riders tend to adjust their stance slowly over a long period of time.
Considerations taken into account are as follows:Binding angles: Binding angles are generally set by the board's width: you set the rider's angles such that the rider's toes and heels end just above the boards edge but without going over it.
For this reason, riders with smaller feet tend to prefer narrower snowboards while riders with larger feet tend to prefer wider boards.
As a rule, the front binding angle is set slightly higher than the rear, usually by five degrees.
A small number of riders prefer very high binding angles and ride extra-narrow snowboards to accommodate this, although the trend has been towards lower angles in recent years.
If the toes or heels overhang the edge of the board by any more than a few millimeters then this overhang will cause you to boot out a low carve - causing a crash.
If the toes are too far inside the edge of the board you have under-hang, which will rob you of edge pressure and make the board difficult to control and balance in a turn.
Stance width: Stance width varies dramatically from rider to rider, although it could be said that stances have generally gotten wider over the years.
Depending upon height, board length, and riding style one might choose a stance width from 18" to 23" wide.
A wider stance tends to provide increased power and stability, whereas a narrower stance will provide increased "twitch" maneuverability at lower speeds.
There are several formulas for determining what the correct stance width is for any individual:  distance from the floor to the middle of the kneecap  multiply pants inseam by 0.607.
These formulas should only be used as starting points - ultimately, stance width is determined by what feels most natural to the rider and provides the greatest range of power and control.
Lift and cant: Lift can be applied to either the heel of the rear foot, and/or the toe of the front foot.
Lift is never applied to the heel of the front foot or the toe of the rear boot.
Lift can serve two different purposes: to offload weight from one foot to another, and/or to widen one's stance beyond what might normally be comfortable.
Three degrees of lift in both the rear and front foot will allow for a wider stance while maintaining the same load on both feet.
Six degrees of lift on the rear foot will offload weight onto the front foot, and also allow for a wider stance.
Lift is usually applied with some degree of canting, so that the overall effect is to tilt the legs in line with the long axis of the snowboard.
How much lift and how much cant is applied is often a factor of how high one's binding angles are.
Bias: Bias is set by shifting the boot forward or backwards in the bindings, to center the rider's toes and heels directly over the boards edge for maximum power transfer.
Some people like to bias their front foot slightly towards the heel, and the rear foot slightly forward towards the toe.
Others prefer to bias their front foot slightly towards the toe edge, and the rear foot slightly towards the heel edge.
This is known by some as the Jack Offset.
However, many riders prefer that the toes and heels on both boots be centred directly over the edge of the board.
Boot cuff adjustments: Most alpine snowboarding hardboots feature adjustable boot cuffs.
The cuff can be adjusted to allow for softer or firmer forward flex, and neutral position of the cuff (cuff angle) can be adjusted forward or back.
Typically, the rear cuff is adjusted to be somewhat more forward than the front cuff — which is nearly always straight up.
Boot cuff angle adjustments are sometimes carried out in tandem with heel lift adjustments.
Stiffening the boot cuff will make the rider's boots more supportive, (which is useful when carving at higher speeds) but it will also make the board somewhat harder to handle at low speeds. 
For a medium weapon (a short spear, a bayoneted gun or a two-handed sword), requiring two hands, the left hand grabs near the buttstock and the right a comfortable distance ahead of it, about one foot up to give an estimation.
The left hand is either squarely in front of the lower belly, or it is closer to the left hip, depending on how long the weapon is compared to the user’s height.
The point is comfortably stretched out towards the opponent’s neck or upper chest.
The stance is more square than for the short weapon, although the right foot is still forward somewhat.
To thrust, the right and left hands both push forward together, but the right hand then releases its grip to allow the left to keep pushing the weapon out to its fullest extent.
At the same time, the left foot is brought from behind to step far forward in front of the right foot, and finally the right foot is shifted forward and to the left to align it with the point of the weapon and the left foot.
The left hand must then pull the weapon back so that the right hand can grab it and return to the on guard position described above.
The feet go through a reverse pattern of what they just did to return the body to its initial position.
This is a more complex movement than with the short weapon, and so takes much drill to become comfortable with. 
Foot placement is critical on a caster board because one wheel rests under each foot while in use.
In order to start with proper foot placement, it is necessary to have the front foot above the center of the front caster and to allow the back foot to give a good push of speed that will allow the board to keep proper balance.
Attempting to place the back foot too quickly will make it even more difficult to achieve a desirable foot placement, so it is best to give that foot a maximum of two seconds for it to properly set itself on the board.
More experienced riders will be able to place their back feet more quickly.
A manual is performed by putting the rear foot on the back end of the rear deck without letting it come off and gently lifting the front foot.
If the user is already riding the board and the user recognizes that the foot placement is slightly undesirable, he/she could replace both feet simultaneously without interrupting his/her ride that is already taking place.
This is done by the rider first making sure that he/she is riding at a normal speed and that the riding surface ahead is stable for riding on, then jumping with both feet at a minimal height that allows both shoes to separate their treads from the grips of the caster board.
The rider may continue to "hop around" the board until a most desirable foot placement is achieved and for as long as a proper speed is maintained.
Hopping around may even more easily produce better results than getting off the board and getting back on again.
A much more difficult means of replacing the feet while riding is when the rider attempts to correct only one foot at a time, increasing the risk of shifting his/her weight too far forward or backward and falling to the ground.