Its Italian food would embarrass a Mulberry Street tourist trap. That line is in for a workout this holiday season, when many a stunned tourist opens the menu and is too embarrassed to leave. One recent night, Drew Nieporent, who ought to be minding his restaurants, popped in wearing a big grin. Women in leopard-like attire hung at the bar, under a haze of smoke thicker than the mist outside. The waiting area was overcrowded with well-dressed Italians who all seemed to know the staff.
Tables line the south windows where the bar once stood.
But you won't see much from them at lunch, when translucent shades leave the Empire State Building mostly to your imagination. Still you rooted for them to do the right thing at 30 Rock, even if the mediocre food at their Sherry-Netherland flagship is hilariously overpriced. They can do better, as their convivial Cipriani Downtown proves. And they did create the new Rainbow Grill, a restaurant open to the public day and night. Even in December, there are tomatoes that at least look like tomatoes.