Slices of steak were interspersed with sauteed green peppers, onions and Pepperjack cheese. It is so hefty, it is cut in half to make it more manageable. One portion would satisfy a light to medium eater, since it also comes with a mound of french fries, light on the oil. Six tables were occupied when we arrived shortly after 2 a.m. on a weekday. Sounds of the season were playing on the sound system but gave way to jazz as soon as the crowd thinned.
Service is prompt and solicitous.
Though it s just across the river, the hospitality is reminiscent of spots further south. Truck stops, one of those most American of icons, conjure up the cliche about where truckers eat is a sure sign of good food. Kennett Truck Stop in Lawrenceburg, Ind., though, polishes up the classic image. It s not a sprawling mega-complex, sized more to dimensions of past years. It s clean and so brilliantly lit you d never know it was 3 a.m., as one diner put it.