This is a poor part of town, with people scavenging among the rubbish on the hillsides and pigs tethered in makeshift shelters. Below lies a strip of black sand under the ominous Fogo cliffs, lashed by Atlantic breakers. When there are no strangers to watch the prisoners gaze at the ocean to the west, the dump below, and the cemetery across the ribeira to the south. The post office is the large pink building at the top of town on the big square containing a sculpture of large candles. Transport -Aluguers leave from the market downhill from Pensao Las Vegas .
Water sometimes cuts out too.
There is horse racing, dancing and processions and special dishes are made. The island has a distinctive music known as pilao, a bit like batuko, a chanting and beating of drums that forms the background to the grinding of corn in the run-up to the festival.