No American has ever returned here. Nong Son is not on the official tourist list. More phone calls. This time to Hanoi. Mr. Chin does his best to lubricate the tension in the room but he is in deep water and obviously, afraid.
Slowly curiosity wins out over suspicion and boredom.
Tea and cigarettes are presented. I place a box of American Marlboros on the table. Mr. Chin finally relaxes and begins to cheerfully translate capitalism into communism. I sip perhaps the strongest tea ever poured. As a foreign invader and former occupier of Nong Son, the army personnel are interested in my experiences and perspective.