Fresh green and red Thai chiles are hidden in the papaya, thinly sliced and, as there are searingy hot, mercifully seeded. But this meal would be incomplete without them. But dining here need not be limited to spicy items. Padt Thai, the Thai national dish of noodles in a lightly sweetened fish sauce, also appeals to milder palates. And even the spiciest curries can be ordered at low volume.
Service is cheerful, but just as casual as the setting.
My beverage of choice is Singha, a pleasant, light-bodied Thai beer. But there also is a small, very basic wine list, and the tropical Thai cocktails legendary for their potency. This restaurant probably is not worth an hourlong drive, but as a local restaurant, it deserves its popularity. You know this is a different type of Mexican restaurant when the waiter shows up with a small appetizer plate instead of a basket of stale tortilla chips and bland salsa. Sopa tarasca is a lovely bean soup with tortilla chips and chunks of avocado.