The din of conversation sometimes reaches a roar. As for the food, those who yearn for chili-stoked fires might find some dishes, like the Long Life peanut noodle salad, too tame. But P. F. Chang's manages to seduce. For one thing, the place is gorgeous, a Zen temple for the '90s. The menu makes a point of laying out all the particulars in awestruck prose.
Servers are wonderfully solicitous.
They'll bring you another that would knock the emperor's army senseless. Then there's the food. All of it is eye candy. Much of it is mouth candy, too. They're ordering tall mai tais and zombies, winks to those umbrellaed extravaganzas of our lost youth.