But persistence paid off, and she snatched a cancellation. Phantom Ranch was established in the early 1920s along Bright Angel Creek. In its early days, the rustic encampment was frequented by the rich, ambassadors and writers. The canyon's grandeur and the resort's remoteness satisfied their search for beauty as well as peace and solitude. Today many people visit the ranch, which can accommodate about 100 guests a night.
Travelers arrive by walking, rafting or riding a mule.
We were among the walkers. By the time we reached the trail head, laced our tennies and donned our day packs heavy with water and trail food, my husband was as eager as I was. The early April morning was perfect, cool and clear. We'd just have to see. We chose the South Kaibab Trail, which leaves from Yaki Point on the South Rim.