The green peppercorns, whole and fresh, pop between the teeth like a fine roe. The lively colors seem to tumble right off the paintings on the walls and onto plates parading out of the kitchen. The visual amplifications, so well assembled, make forgivable the overcooked vegetables. The wine list, though short, offers some good choices. Mellow and somewhat understated, the reds work well with most entrees although there is nothing substantial enough for the steaks.
Smart management shows up in the details.
The kitchen, with its hands full, wisely contracted several home bakers to turn out an enviable array of sweets. Wallau and Oliver, once underlings, make success look so easy it's a wonder why larger restaurants fail to measure up. This page was designed and created by the Boulevards team.