A la carte highlights include a spicy tuna roll, the tuna arranged like steak tartare in a soft patty. Unagi, or eel, is glazed with a sweet barbecue sauce and served oshi-zushi style, pressed flat and served over largish rectangles of rice. And shrimp, wrapped around monkfish liver, contrasts clean and earthy tastes and silky and firm textures. The meal ended with a light seafood broth, followed by the only pointless dish in the collection, an ice cream dish that was a concession to Western tastes. The restaurant itself is a long, narrow and very modern space with clean lines and a profusion of beautiful floral arrangements.
Waiters patrol the dining room in outfits that look like postmodern samurai uniforms.
There's seating for about 40 at elegant wood tables, including a 12-seat communal table, and room for another dozen at the long sushi bar. Chairs are exceedingly comfortable. Service is smooth and efficient, but describing dishes is not yet a strong point. And no two waiters explain the live-fish preparation the same way. Then again, there are some details the customers don't want to know.