If one prong of a four-prong setting breaks, it often results in the loss of a stone. Six prong settings are more secure. If a prong is weak or broken, it's usually best to replace the head than to attempt retouching prongs. Sharp corners, such as the tips of pearshapes and marquise cut stones, are especially susceptible to breakage and should be protected by the setting. Bezel settings offer more protection to stones, but they make it more difficult to remove and reset stones if the stone needs repolishing or if alterations of the metalwork are required.
Setting can also be hazardous.
It's best to use high-karat gold, which is softer and more easily bent into place. Also, consider how the stone might be removed if necessary. Sometimes, it may be best to use a false bezel setting and set the stone from beneath, holding it in place with tabs. If you have comments or questions, please send email to the author This page was last updated 18 May 1998.