When a restaurant lasts this long, in a neighborhood that's constantly changing, it's clearly doing something right.
Specials emphasize seafood, from imported Dover sole to local rockfish.
And since this year's fashion dictates ostrich, that's what you'll find on the menu. Desserts run to custards, a small assortment of pastries and refreshing liqueur-spiked orange wedges. The food and the friendly service are what you'd expect in a French country bistro, and the decor helps further the illusion. Dining beneath a mural of just this kind of restaurant on its home ground, you almost feel you're joining the crowd.