Couples stroll along the path ways at twilight among ducks, peacocks and iguanas, and dine at several romantic restaurants, serenaded by musical trios. Although Varadero probably has more new housing than anywhere else in Cuba, it also is preserving its old. The area has a number of slightly disintegrating architectural treasures from the 1940s and '50s, when Varadero was a playground for rich Americans. Under restoration is a sandstone mansion overlooking the water reputedly once owned by Chicago gangster Al Capone. The Dupont Mansion also houses an exquisite restaurant in a breathtaking setting.
Waiters wear tuxedos and reservations are recommended in high season.
For nightlife, Varadero is much like many resorts worldwide. The discos are so geared toward foreign tourists that none plays more than one or two Cuban songs all night. The rage this summer is La Rumba, a new, self-contained disco next to the Bella Costa hotel. Also try the Havana Club in town. In all of these clubs, expect to see many older male tourists dancing the night away with Cuban women half or even a third their age.