Though not unpleasant, it still was somewhat of a jolt. Fresh, mild spinach was steamed to near wilting but was still crisp. It was tucked beneath a generous, moist fillet of fish, which flaked nicely. The presentation of the entrees represents good culinary design but also a sense of humor. Strips of vegetables in bright reds, greens and yellow radiate on the edge of plates in a sunburst that is attractive and playful.
Servers work the room earnestly and aim to please without being cute.
Dining here does not strain imagination, credulity or wallet. It is ultra-reasonable. 2239 N. Clybourn Ave. Wu is a Chicago freelance writer. Afghani African Amer.