A slosh of Strega, an Italian liqueur, also punches up its flavor. If you are a fan of meltingly tender desserts, order this tiramisu. The only dish that disappointed was the past its prime Florida stone crab claw, an appetizer special. It was probably a mistake to order this on a Sunday, a day when little seafood is shipped into Chicago, but an attentive kitchen would have left this off the menu. Space between some tables is tight in the warm-toned room, but the room hums with smooth activity.
Servers are cheerful and professional without being cloying.
A corps of backup servers delivered, cleared and filled water glasses like clockwork. Course after course arrived punctually, all without attracting undue attention. Quietly hard-working, the servers made a room of 110 diners feel more like guests at a private dinner party. Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon. Wu is a Chicago freelance writer.