The west side is a swathe of gently shelving olive groves, edged with shorter, shingly beaches. The downside is that room rates are wallet draining. But you do get those touches like real linen sheets. Within minutes you're surrounded by thickly-forested cliffs, home to countless birds and wildlife. The food is legendary, so tavernas such as Drossia in Vizitsa are always full.
Wines are organic.
Having coffee and sweets in Argalasti square at sunset watching locals playing tavli. Fakistra is less accessible, ideal for escapists. Papa Nero, Affissos or Horto. In the perfectly-formed hamlet of Damouchari, with its one harbour, one beach and three fish tavernas. Kleopatra is a wacky bar that stages live music gigs.