The chef is Filipe Nulez, a Cuban who came to Memphis from Miami. On my visits it seemed as if far more Spanish was being spoken than English, meaning that Sabor Tropical has a built-in and appreciative audience. A large mural on one wall, depicting an undeniably northern river landscape with pine trees, must be left over from a previous tenant, while a decidedly gruesome carved head of Jesus with crown of thorns hanging near the counter put the fear of retribution into one of my colleagues. Although the lunch menu varies slightly from day to day, it is built on the foundation of black beans, rice, plantains and meat, basically chicken, pork and beef, fairly unadorned with spices. This food depends more on cooking technique than spices for flavor complexity.
Seafood is available at night and as specials on weekends.
Paella must be ordered ahead. Leaping into an attitude of praise, I'll say that Sabor Tropical turns out a superb roasted chicken, offered as a quarter or half of the bird. The skin, brown and as shiny as if it had been lacquered, is surpassingly crisp, while the meat is moist, tender and flavorful, even in the breast. Lechon asado , roasted pork, brings a bowl of dark, slightly crusty and heartily flavored chopped meat, which I would have liked better if it had been a bit more tender. On a Saturday lunch, we tried two excellent specials, grouper imperial and pork chops jardinere.