I've known owners Azita Bina-Seibel and Babak Bina forever. I've missed them and their welcoming hospitality. But above all else, I've missed the food at this Persian restaurant on Beacon Hill. Lala Rokh is a gastronomic homage to the duo's mother, Aghdas, a native of Azerbaijan. Azita may be executive chef but, make no mistake, Mrs. Bina is the ultimate authority.
Some comfort foods transcend geography.
It's out of this world piled on thick slabs of barbari bread - think focaccia. The latter is addictive. At the culinary crossroads of East and West, Persia developed a cuisine of great sophistication featuring fresh herbs and complex, but subtle, seasonings. These are the dishes the Bina kids ate growing up. The wait staff is extraordinarily well trained in the nuances of this fare.