First I yelled out in pain, then in anger. You're a danger to everyone around you. No apology, or even sympathy, just total ignorance. The smell of the ocean coming through my half-open window helps me to calm down as I pull off the freeway. There's not much wind today, and the ocean is glassy.
Untextured swells roll in across the horizon like corduroy.
All the factors that need to be in place for the waves to be good, are present. There is a solid ground swell, little wind, and the tide is coming up so it will focus the swell more. I finally slide my gearshift into park, and I hurry to put on my wetsuit. As I jog down to the cliff, I hear people talking about how hard they were ripping, and how great their waves were. Whatever , I say to myself.