Separate sections are devoted to Cantonese, Szechuan, Indonesian, Hong Kong and Americanized Chinese fare. Everything is there, from chicken chop suey to stir-fried squid with spicy salt. The seaweed gives the filling a pleasant, salty flavor. Don't even think of drowning it in sauce. They are simply battered and deep-fried.
White pepper provides the heat, and rice vinegar the sour flavor.
Bill Ho assured me that it easily serves five or six diners. Those who shun Maine lobster because eating it is a mess will find it easy here. The lobsters are disjointed and their shells trimmed so well that they can be eaten with just chopsticks. Currently, the availabity of eel and abalone is limited because they are more abundant in warmer months. Served steamed in a clay pot with black bean sauce, the result is splendid and very tender.