A sweet nectarine glaze works very well with crispy wontons stuffed with goat cheese, lump crabmeat and an aggressive jolt of jalapeno. But hamachi tartare, dressed with a sesame-chive emulsion, is lovely, and seared foie gras is a pretty thing, perched on matchsticks of beet and Granny Smith apple. Whatever the number of courses, what emerges will be more than you expect. Though the dessert list needs more variety, the few items that are available aren't bad at all. By the time you read this, Foster may have added a cheese plate as well.
Service is very good.
Waiters may not grasp the menu fully, but with a changing-daily menu and a repertoire as varied as Foster's, that's a forgivable shortcoming. Apparently owners Eric Webber and Douglas Hamrick wanted to call the place Saucy, but couldn't get rights to the name and settled for a homonym. Although in a season in which we've seen new restaurants named Karizma, NoMI, Naha and Mod, Saussy seems practically coherent by comparison. Saussy 1156 W. Grand Ave. It's Easy Bein' Green weekend.