Leverets additionally lend themselves to roasting and saut ing. Wild Rabbits, which have the same seasonal period, are prime between three to four months old, smaller than their hutch-bred brethren and more flavoursome and tender. The Middle Neck and Neck, together with Shoulder, should only go for Stews or, in the case of Hare, for Jugged Hare. The writer, in December last, came across a very tasty Rabbit Brawn served in a Norwich restaurant which, happily, had the imagination and knowledge to resurrect such a delicious, novel and, almost certainly, profitable starter. The same will apply to Brill, Whiting, Turbot and Plaice.
Scallops are at their best, plump, succulent and as white as the driven snow.
It was whilst fishing for scallops that the tragedy happened last month involving the loss of a close knit family group of Scottish fishermen. Perhaps when we have a little moan about expensive fish we should recall there is a hidden price paid by the fishermen which is above rubies. A reminder of the constant risk faced as part of their daily routine by all who go down to the sea in ships. They deserve our support. Wild Salmon is in season on most rivers now and if they successfully run the gauntlet to enter the estuaries and make it for the first few miles, we should begin to have them becoming more widely available as the month progresses.