But more than a decade into a revolt against New Delhi's rule in India's only Muslim-majority state, the roar of army convoys has long replaced the chatter of tourists. The tourists may take some time to return, but political pundits see a glimmer of hope for peace in the disputed territory claimed by both India and Pakistan. A demand by the state government for greater autonomy from New Delhi has put Kashmir in the spotlight.
Violence is at a low, albeit by the state's rather dismal standards.
Several prominent Kashmiri separatist leaders appear willing to enter negotiations with New Delhi. And the international community is pressing both India and Pakistan to bring stability to the world's foremost nuclear flashpoint. Of course, any optimism about Kashmir is cautious at best. The limp back to normalcy, say analysts, depends on a relatively peaceful summer, more respect by India for Kashmiri human rights, and more flexibility from Kashmiri, Indian and Pakistani leaders than they have shown in the recent past. For now, the spotlight is on Jammu and Kashmir state Chief Minister Farooq Abdullah.