The backlit coffee-coloured columns and rounded faux tortoiseshell bar lend a stylish glow to the overall atmosphere. Despite Garnaut's aversion to nostalgia, one could easily imagine a ghostly Noel Coward taking a break from writing Private Lives at the nearby Peace Hotel and slipping in for a cocktail. The food may have a similar effect. There are very few places in the world where the vegetables are truly seasonal, so the flavour is great. The fresh chicken is better than anywhere outside of France and the locally produced foie gras is superb.
Shanghai is one of a handful of places on earth where foie gras is made and it's remarkable.
The menu is larger than at M at the Fringe, and is sensibly more suited to the Chinese palate. For example, French onion soup with rice is a proven winner so far. Even if they don't speak English or aren't used to Western food they will just ask the waiters what they like and order that. The clientele ranges from ordinary Shanghainese to business and government VIPs, while the usual crop of models and visiting music stars seems to find its way to the restaurant, as well. In Shanghai, we take that as a compliment.