Each one is an authentic American wine made from authentic vinifera grapes, just like Chardonnay, Cabernet and Merlot.
Winemakers are a contrary lot.
Most of these grapes make one-dimensional wines, rustic varieties that are no match for those made from nobler grapes like Cabernet and Merlot. They would need generations of skilled care to equal their elegance. Still, they serve as a pleasant change of pace from the heartier stuff. Most of them are light and fresh, and as easy to drink as Beaujolais. The California Agriculture Department recognizes 26 varieties of white wine grapes and 39 red wine grapes, including such old favorites as Burger and Montonico among the whites, and Black Malvoisie and Souzao among the reds.