However, the methods and techniques used in making large wampum belts probably developed from the ancient Native American traditions of finger-weaving. Some of the earliest post-European contact wampum belts were worn as collars around the neck. Although a loom is helpful, but not necessary, the double-strand square weave technique does not require the use of metal needles, as the beads can be strung one at a time onto the two wefts and then the wefts passed under and over the next warp string. The alternating panels of blue and white at the ends are evidently a convention imitated from the Iroquois. Aside from beauty, wearing or presenting jewelry had many social, economic, political and religious implications for the Native Americans of the 1600's in southern New England.
White wampum is the emblem of health, peace or purity.
Purple and black wampum are color variants of the same bead, and were used for serious or civic affairs, sometimes indicating dis-ease , distress or hostility, at least in referring to the background colors in belt patterns. The meanings in the designs can become very complicated, for example a belt may have white designs on a purple background but be surrounded by a white border, indicating a relationship that was once hostile is now peaceful. Personal headbands and bracelets might combine shell with glass or metal beads. Many Native American headbands and bracelets in the 1600's in southern New England incorporated squares, triangles, diagonal lines, crosses, people, animals and other geometric shapes. Belt designs might show kinship or connection with a particular group.