In some ways, stainless appliances have been a victim of their own popularity. No one wants a cookie-cutter kitchen that has plummeted down to the mass market. But restaurant appliances also proved to be something of a nuisance. Industrial ranges can get so hot that they need to be a comfortable distance from wood cabinetry. And although the commercial-grade Hobart dishwasher can do a whole load in two minutes, it uses removable racks that take up lots of kitchen storage space.
Some homeowners also complain that stainless is vulnerable to rust and grime.
Of course, serious chefs are often willing to put up with such hassles. Still, even some designers of commercial-style kitchens seem to be souring on them. New York architect Morgan Hare spends his days designing upscale homes with equipment that would knock the toque off a four-star chef. But when it came to renovating his own kitchen this year, Mr. Hare went anticommercial. He cased his two Sub-Zero refrigerators in slate, installed a copper sink that was handcrafted by his father and tracked down aged cedar for his countertops.