In the 1970s, the Pyramid Room was often considered the unquestioned leader among the old-fashioned, grande luxe dining palaces so beloved here. But recently there has been an even more radical rethinking. The name has been changed to the Pyramid Grill, and Claude Feracci, who has worked at the Fairmont since 1986, is now chef. Unsurprisingly, given the new name, Mr. Feracci is focusing on grilled dishes. Entrees come with a choice of sauces.
Veggies also get a simple, but thoroughbred, treatment.
We wouldn't be surprised if some whipped cream had been mixed in to lighten it. The look hasn't changed in the most recent reincarnation. The Pyramid has a more intimate feel than in the 1970s, when a sommelier dressed as a gaucho climbed a ladder to fetch bottles of wine. The dull-gold ceiling still has one pyramidal space, and you find little pyramid motifs scattered around the walls and tables. The food, too, continues some of the old Pyramid traditions.