Even within Liguria, some areas, such as the town of Pr , are considered to have higher quality basil than others. The problem with American basil is that it is too strong. To mitigate this, use only the small leaves from the plant, or grow your own. Look for seeds labeled basilico Genovese. Cr me fra che and softened butter are nice too.
Spinach is a bit too mild, so go easy on the garlic.
Arugula is the reverse. They're all fun to make. Just don't call them pesto. Sam Gugino , Wine Spectator's Tastes columnist, is the author of Cooking to Beat the Clock . For complete version of this article, please see the July 31 issue of Wine Spectator, page 25.