Only last year a sudden and intense snow storm had forced a retreat from pitch 12 on my first one day attempt. Reversing the pendulum, frozen fingers and endless raps in the snow were still fresh in my memory.
Some people never learn.
We decided to skip the slabs approach and do the leisurely 8 mile jaunt. We'd bivy below the shoulder, get up early and fire the damn thing. The forecast was for perfect weather. 4 A.M. Coffee slowly brings me to life. Speed is safety.