Pass up the waiter's suggestion to taste them all at once, a strategy better suited to Jelly Bellys. Here sublime and silly dwell in irksome co-dependency. Odd combinations abound. For every dish that repels, one captivates. Atlas' owners had the good humor to invite foodies to decide for themselves.
Servers mix up dishes.
Odd, since every other plate is piping hot. Three of our foursome found it inedible. Liebrandt's menu reads like a brilliant second draft in need of a sharp No. 2 pencil. Ingredients are first-class. The technique is, in principle, French.