But give me some passion, some heart, some clue that this is about careful food, welcoming respite, human connection - not just a gizmo or statement. Small colored saucers of sushi chug along it, inviting you to snatch one as the spirit moves. As it happens, though, the sushi rice collapses at the touch of a chopstick, making for a messy moment. At Continental, he hung whimsical lamps in the shape of toothpick-skewered olives. At Buddakan, a giant Buddha presides.
Tangerine is escapist, evoking a moody Moroccan twilight.
Each time, though, he took pains with creature comforts - and food preparation. The stage set played a supporting role, enhancing the dining experience. I could go on. And I will. The bathrooms have a bleak, Fort Dix feel, and no clue telling you the faucets are controlled by a foot treadle.