A nurse at Kosevo described how a shell hit an intensive-care room, killing the people inside. Dozens of wounded would pour into the hospital each day, but often all she could do was hold young victims as they died, since there was so little medicine or equipment. Living conditions in Sarajevo have improved dramatically in the past six months, my friends told me. People again walk the streets without fear, no longer having to dash across sniper-exposed intersections or walk near buildings to find cover in case of shelling attacks. Electricity, though rationed, appears to be constant.
Water is more of a problem, since residences receive it only a few hours each day.
Stores are being repaired and opened at a brisk pace these days, and many businesses have already replaced their windows. But with warmer weather, the city's meager gas supplies stretch better, and it's available for cooking and limited heat. It is not the same, Kamenko tells me, since the old buildings were built from a special type of wood while the new ones are just plain. Trams are running again regularly, and they seem to be fairly safe now. During the siege, snipers especially liked to shoot at the streetcars because they were jam-packed with people unable to escape.