Old cottages, faced with pebbledash, and houses of bluish-green local slate vie for attention along the twisty streets of the village.
Victorian villas sit comfortably beside hotels, galleries and shops catering to tourists.
Gingerbread lovers stop for a treat at the famous, teensy Gingerbread shop near the church. It's hard to imagine this tiny space was once a school. Church Stile, a row of 17th century cottages, is now the home of the National Trust shop, but in a past life was an inn. Across from Church Stile in the village centre sits the 13th century church, dedicated to St Oswald, the 7th century Christian king of Northumberland. Children parade to the church bearing rushes in the form of a cross.