No water closet. Partly, like so much else in life, everywhere, TV takes some credit. Whatever the reason, there has been a vast expansion in the number of stores selling fixtures, and in plumbers specializing in throne rooms. In fact, in the homes of the middle class, the bathroom has become a clear status symbol. In new homes, there is one for almost every bedroom, even if, as in some I have seen, the two are separated by quite a distance.
Seats are de riguer.
The march to ceramic sensitivity has been a little slower in the restaurants and bars, and it is still unwise to go around without your own supply of papel higienico, but some improvements are being noted and commented upon by the gringo community in Oaxaca, my home town. It used to be that only the first class hotels were truly worthy of the seal of elite elimination. Always supplied with paper, and frequently attended to by staff, they were stations along the track from home to zocalo and back. Nowadays, the tourist class hotels and restaurants are adequate refuge for those who can not or do not wish to seek the haut monde. If small, incremental improvements do not suffice for you, then allow me to recommend the penultimate bathroom experience.