Then, in early May, the Calimases were fortunate enough to obtain the services of Rene Herbeck, whose refined and subtle style of cooking, and his flair for presentation, finally seemed to fit the plush surroundings. For now, Herbeck hasn't made wholesale changes to the opening menu. Some ill-conceived entrees, like the awful Indonesian peanut butter pork, wisely have been removed. Those items left on the menu, however, have been reworked so that they are delightfully well-executed. The list of entrees currently is limited to eight, and Herbeck is slowly adding new ones.
Service has the potential to be quite good.
I love the apple tart with its buttery cookie crust and dollop of vanillabean ice cream as much as the pool of homemade-tasting caramel that ringed the plate. The berry Napoleon was light yet good, and Herbeck's signature opera cake, kind of like a fudgy tiramisu, was decadent. The only possible downside to this experience is that these lush surroundings and fine food have an equally luxurious price tag. For many, a trip to Twins will have to be reserved for what is indeed a special occasion.