In wintertime Venice you can be alone atop St. Marks' bell tower to watch the clouds of your breath roll over the Byzantine domes of the church to a horizon of cut-glass Alps. Stick around for Venice's Carnevale. In Italy, every saint gets a holiday. Christmas in Nuremberg will make you hum Silent Night. In Spain, Holy Week transforms a world of Nikes and Levis into a parade steeped in 2000 years of religious tradition.
Travelers stow their cameras and touch the soul of Spain.
Vienna's boys choir, magnificent opera, and Spanish Riding School are in their crowd-pleasing glory. Be prepared for the disadvantages of off-season travel. Expect poor weather, particularly in the north, and short days that get dark by 5 p.m. Some of the minor sights have shorter hours, are open only on weekends, or are closed entirely. Some hotels and restaurants close off-season.