I've almost drowned there at least 3 times in my 50 years of surfing. Describe your perfect surfing conditions. C. Malibu, 4' to 6'. D. Rincon, 4' to 6', no people. These are perfect conditions for me.
Water is the blood life of Mother Earth.
Once you pollute the water, you've killed the sacred blood of Mother Earth. This is our biggest threat today, but Mother Earth will purify herself, by getting rid of the Evil, which is about to happen real soon if we don't clean up. So please keep the water clean. I could make a list a mile long. I think he inspired a lot of guys including Mickey Dora.