Lloyd Kahn Mytilini is a town of about 30,000 and it's not your picture-perfect charming Greek village. It's centered on a U-shaped port, with hotels and sidewalk cafes and shops lining the waterfront. It's picturesque, but the road along the waterfront is choked with cars, and the air filled with exhaust.
Tourists are obviously part of the economy, but it's also a real working town.
The next day I rent a motorscooter for 3 days. The rental guy tells me over and over to be careful, especially on the curves, and to take my time . . . . If it's an hour trip, take it easy, enjoy yourself and do it in an hour and a half . . . Good advice, but he's preaching to the choir. I put my backpack in front of my knees, the smaller rucksack on my back, strap on the blue helmet and am off for what is reported to be the spectacular hillside town of Molyvos, on the northern tip of Lesvos.