The charred pork, moist and very tender within, has its sharp flavors mellowed by a bourbon-molasses sauce. Contrasting accompaniments are a pile of bitter collard greens and a rich gratin of sweet potato and caramelized onions. Also memorable is the grilled venison loin, thick and marvelously tender, served with a hoppy Red Hook beer sauce, some full-flavored cheese grits and a delightful ragout of artichoke, tomatoes, leeks and morel mushrooms. And for texture, you can't beat the arborio rice pudding, whose toothsome rice is enhanced with crunchy morsels of macadamia nut. Thin slivers of fresh mango supply the finishing touch.
Service is as reliable as the menu is unpredictable.
Staffers are informed and pleasantly low-key, and particularly helpful in guiding patrons through the substantial wine list. Printer's Row is also one of the most reliable pre-theater destinations around. It's a short walk from the Auditorium Theatre, and the staff is very good about getting customers out the door on time. Printer's Row has an ambitious lunch menu, too, loaded with intriguing choices such as a charred lamb fajita, crab and corn potato cake with black bean salsa and a chile-laced pork loin salad. Once considered strictly a Midwest regional restaurant, Printer's Row now embraces American ingredients and cooking styles from coast to coast.