I love his hand-harvested diver scallops, pearly white, pan seared and set atop a ragout of baby artichokes, cipolline onions and parsley sauce. Given the spectacular show put on by Mother Nature outside the Marine Room's windows, it's sometimes tough to pay attention to what's going on inside. But Bernard Guillas, the dynamic Frenchman who has breathed new life into this old favorite, works hard to compete with the view. His bigeye tuna in spicy sesame crust is sublime. Ditto the mustard-coated salmon that sometimes shows up as a special.
Some preparations are a little on the fussy side, but the flavors are bold and satisfying.
The appealing lunch menu includes a smart Shrimp Martini, a tableside-tossed Cobb Salad, and a Napoleon of heirloom tomatoes and eggplant. Just fabulous, freshly caught fish cooked simply over mesquite and served with savory side dishes. Since there are just three tables plus counter space inside and a half-dozen tables on the shared patio, many fans opt for takeout. During the present local lobster season, Rimel's features the juicy, mesquite-grilled crustaceans with black beans, rice, tortillas and terrific salsa fresca. There's also grilled chicken and vegetable plates.