Perhaps the best tip to someone planing to sup here would be to arrive early during the hot summer months. While the kitchen staff here really cooks, the crowd of seasonal regulars stacks up pretty thick after 7 p.m. or so. On our recent visit, we were lucky enough to get squirreled away at a table in the upstairs loft, under the curve of the dome. It was fun. Ours counted 25 crazy-colored kites in all.
Tables ring the edge of the dome and the steep stairs lead up through the middle.
Of course, the dome and the kites and the elaborate way that owner Jay Kenigsberg has filled every available square foot of his restaurant isn't the real draw. The menu and the consistent quality of the food are what keep people coming back year after year. On our recent visit, we started with an unusual appetizer, a deep-fried spring roll. This larger version was dunked into a greasy hot fryer until bubbly and golden brown. Served on a bed of lettuce with a weak fish sauce, it was good, and certainly something new for all but the regulars here.