The seafood at Oceanaire is, by and large, first-rate. Beyond the shellfish, the appetizers are not as dependable. The jumbo-shrimp cocktail is made with those same good shrimp. The crabcake is fine but no match for the best available locally. Oysters Rockefeller were cold under their blanket of underseasoned spinach.
Timid seasoning is a problem.
Pepper was, in fact, the only thing that the chef was stingy with. The big bowl of mussels cried out for seasoning. Frying is dependable. The Fisherman's Platter is a big plate of very good shrimp, scallops, oysters, and fish, coated with what seemed to be panko crumbs, fried crisp, and served hot. They were accompanied by a large pile of cold matchstick potatoes.