Before the sixteenth century dress is largely shaped by the body. Now, in a sudden about-face, it is shaped artificially. With the exception of one brief period, the artificial silhouette lasts through the nineteenth century. The Reformation court dress is shaped like a stiff cone. Details are formally balanced.
Women move slowly and sedately, as if on wheels.
The overall effect is architectural. The shape of the skirt is determined by a funnel-shaped hoop, the verdigale or farthringale which is made of whale bone or iron straps. Layers of petticoats are placed over the hoop, and a shaped underskirt is cut and shaped to fit over the undergarments without wrinkles or folds. It is often open at the center front, revealing the underskirt which is lighter in color. When the overskirt is closed, trim emphasizes the centerfront edges.