David Woo Chef James Neel sits at his chef's table in his kitchen at Tramontana. Some chefs' tables, such as James Neel's at Tramontana , are actually in the kitchen. Whatever the location, interaction with the chef before the meal to plan a menu and during the meal to explain the intricacies of each dish is key. George Papadopoulos of Voltaire likes to experiment with new dishes if, of course, chef's table guests are willing. We try to introduce new flavors and pair dishes with special wines that might not be available anywhere else,'' he says.
Some chefs view the arrangement as a stage for their own performance.
Others, such as Mr. Neel, let diners pitch in with preparation if they feel the urge to throw on an apron. It's all about personalizing the dining experience. Always busy when others are having fun, chefs found that inviting friends, family, other chefs or special customers into their kitchens was their best opportunity to mix business with pleasure. In America, chefs' tables first became popular in the 1980s as a way to make celebrities out of cooks. Mr. Trotter's place is so popular that a health department threat to shut down his showplace table it was too near the kitchen prep area caused near-panic among fans and created national headlines in 1995.