One of the few hot appetizers proved to be the most disappointing. Lightly battered calamari, pan-fried with pimiento and hot peppers, is a cute idea in search of better execution. My first sample had been drastically overcooked, turning the calamari rings into golden-brown gaskets. On a later visit, the calamari were less rubbery, but the dish was far too greasy. Best of the bunch is the cold baby lobster, a pound or so of chilled, beautifully fresh lobster tail that tasted preternaturally sweet.
Steaks are the stars of the entree list, of course.
Augmenting the steaks are the occasional giant lobster and grilled pieces of fish. A mixed-seafood grill, including salmon, seabass, tuna and shrimp with a sweet and tart balsamic syrup, is a special that ought to be repeated often. You'll also find an outstanding veal chop, with a roquefort butter sauce, and an excellent double pork chop enhanced by a lively apple-onion relish. As at most steakhouses, potatoes and vegetables must be ordered separately. One sidedish order will accommodate two diners easily, and even a half-order for two will probably suffice.