A collection of small plates makes for a nice meal, especially if you want to sample from the broad range of flavors that constitute the eclectic Continental offerings. Yellow lentil soup nods to India with the addition of the clarified butter called ghee, but the rich flavor that comes from bits of smoked lamb shank makes this universally good. On their own the ample large plates easily constitute dinner. Nearly every entree comes with a side dish or two, and while I'd prefer them actually on the side instead of stacked in the vertical cuisine that's rampant nowadays, these accompaniments are wonderfully delicious. Keep a bread crust handy for swabbing.
Singular offerings provide the same satisfaction.
Duck risotto is redolent of fresh sage, truffle oil, crispy bits of pancetta and Parmesan cheese. Wild mushrooms, pine nuts, tomato, artichoke hearts, basil and feta cheese flavor pappardelle, the wide pasta common in roadside trattorie across Tuscany. Pastry chef Sarah Iannaroni keeps dessert on track. So many different flavors could've resulted in a confusing mishmash, but this seemingly disparate collection cooperated perfectly. The room hasn't changed dramatically from its previous incarnation as Tribeca.