A fenced-in courtyard should be a popular destination for summer lunch and dinner. She The waiters' pants and the chairs' cushions are cut from the same faux-leopard cloth and the martinis are named for Tallullah Bankhead and RuPaul, among other divas. Welcome to She She, a funky Lincoln Square spot where everybody, especially the staff members, seems to be having a ball. The dining room holds but 54, so don't even think of visiting without a reservation. The menu features a light and lovely trio of tuna, salmon and scallop tartares or try seared scallops with beet-infused couscous and a touch of curry oil.
Skate wing is nicely prepared, as is a simple farfalle pasta with shrimp in lemongrass cream.
For dessert, try Tosca's Kiss, a rich chocolate concoction that was a signature dessert at the late Jimmy's Place. The fenced-in patio should be a major draw in summer. Zealous Michael Taus moved his successful Elmhurst restaurant to the city to get attention, and he's certain to get it. But Zealous has been open barely two weeks, so cut them a bit of slack. And welcome to the big leagues, Mr. Taus.