7113 SW Macadam Ave. Formerly a Cucina Cucina chain that ran out of steam in Macadam Village, this newly resurrected mini-mall nook has retained much of the glossy Euro sheen of its predecessor. But with a few nods to the Cambodian motherland gracing the walls, the facility wears its blow-dried hipness more convincingly, creating a successful combination of Indochina and Cali bistro.
Sharp lines dart across at random angles to create geometric eye candy.
A stone-black floor keeps the room warm despite its mostly windowed walls that veer out onto Southwest Portland's version of nothing in particular. The dish gets its strength from the charred, crispy shell seared into each pepper, onion, mushroom and cube of steak. But this one, straightforward to a flaw, lacks any hint of the unknown. It's a dependable lunch, but too tame for a night of Asian adventure. Go with the appetizers if you order from the Thai menu.