But at Chicama, the ceviches are the most exciting part of the experience. At least seven different versions are available at any time, but it s the Viagra Ceviche that people remember. Colored with squid ink, this dish is laced with citric juices that cure the shellfish, and that creates a problem for any wine. The fierce acidity of the ceviches challenges any but the most tart of wines. And that s only half of the problem.
Shellfish carry inherent sweetness, as well as umami richness.
Combine all these elements and red wines are incapable of being anything other than clunky, clumsy missteps with these flavors. Instead, these foods prefer wines with inherent sweetness or fruitiness and high acidity, wines such as German Riesling, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Alsace Pinot Gris. The most acclaimed of Latin wines are rich and red and far outside of this flavor profile. Truthfully, our ceviche goes best with beer, says Ivan Ruiz, general manager of Chicama. Most of the wines that come from Latin America are very high in alcohol and our food is quite spicy.