Some people never learn. We decided to skip the slabs approach and do the leisurely 8 mile jaunt. We'd bivy below the shoulder, get up early and fire the damn thing. The forecast was for perfect weather. 4 A.M. Coffee slowly brings me to life.
Speed is safety.
No unnecessary gear. Absolutely no bivy gear. Minimal rack, one rope. Thrash through the Manzanita to the base. We are greeted by a team of mid-westerners with mohawks, with a huge amount of gear.