On a recent visit, I notice sushi chefs slicing away on my left and, on my right, abundant displays of ready-made foods. The price, quality and choice are outstanding. Takeout of this calibre is a rarity in Montreal. But one glance at a stack of iced brownies on the counter offers a clue as to why Cabanes makes frequent pilgrimages to this store. The brownies, that most American of baked goods, look scrumptious, far more appealing than the mousse cakes and French pastries in the refrigerated case below.
Tea cakes sold by the slice are very appealing.
If I had my choice, we'd have a larger savoury-food department in Montreal. But the lifestyle here is different. New Yorkers don't cook as often at home as we do. Cabanes still looks to Europe for inspiration. He points out that countries like France still have plenty to offer, based on a long and deeply rooted culinary tradition.