The small black and white striped awning doesn't intrude over the sidewalk of East 65 Street. There's no sprawling entry. The L-shaped room affords few blocked views of the front door, although some are more visible than others. Even on slow August afternoons, Maccioni glides through the dining room, stopping to chat with regular customers, and keeping a close eye on his waitstaff.
Service is almost impeccable here.
The waiters are ever-present but not overbearing. Wineglasses also had a tendency to empty without a waiter's notice. But those are quibbles. The food and the scene lead the way at Le Cirque. In the meantime, Boulud's team, sous-chef Sottha Khunn, and pastry chef Jacques Torres, continues to turn out excellent fare.