Barbecued pork loin with mashed sweet potatoes, diced apples and black walnuts is good, though there wasn't a hint of pink left to the meat. All are extremely good, but the sturgeon and venison are stars. Pastry chef Raul Gonzales offers up an intriguing assortment of desserts. The chocolate macorannade, a souffle-like cake, has a warm, moist center and a richness that belies its diminutive size. Straightforward apple tart, embellished with a scoop of Hawaiian honey ice cream, is a winner, as is the chocolate pecan tart with bourbon-apricot coulis.
Waiters demonstrate a firm command of the menu, and meals are paced well.
Attentiveness could stand a little improvement, especially in the area of refilling wine glasses. Speaking of wine, there is the wine list, whose more than fair prices echo Crofton's commitment to affordable dining. The list shows a nice range in its 60-some offerings, including about a dozen wines by the glass. Crofton has been dazzling Chicago-area palates since her debut at Montparnasse in 1989. Back then, I wrote that Crofton had star potential, and she's been making me look more prescient with each passing year.