Chicken is also featured in one of the restaurant's best dishes, chicken hash, the jazzy sort of reinvented standard for which the Diner is famous. A moist, crunchy confluence of dark meat, fried potato, and spice is set upon a bed of creamy, risottolike hominy grits, then dressed with a bracing tomato ragout and topped with sweet chunks of lobster meat. Somehow this potentially overwhelming combination of flavors and textures melts together into one splendid dish. The Boston cream pie is really good until you taste the other desserts, and then you realize it's nothing but a tall slab of spongecake with cream in the middle and chocolate sauce on top. The elegant, dramatically lit bar shakes up the usual suspects, the always dependable Anchor Steam is right there on tap, and the wines by the glass include a Kendall-Jackson zin that's fruity, robust, and perfect with the pot roast.
Service is as friendly and as occasionally vague as the restaurant itself.
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