I produced a guidebook map which he studied intently. He then spent the next hour hailing every passing fishing boat to ask for directions. We never did find any caves, and although it was a lovely day out, it was not the tour I had booked. Back in Cat Ba, the organizer blamed the boatman for not knowing the way. With profit margins like that, it's hardly surprising that corners get cut.
Tourists dazzled by rock-bottom prices have only themselves to blame if things go wrong.
Now everybody comes on a tour and stays one night, maybe two. I constantly have people coming in here and moaning. Thankfully, though, things are changing. Some companies are breaking away from the same old trips, offering new, adventure-based excursions. That's good news for travellers and for local entrepreneurs like my guide James.