Quality among the entrees was more varied. There's almost as much succulent foie gras as beef medallions. The dark, rosemary-infused sauce and mahogany skin from a Chinese herb marinade gave the poultry an uncharacteristic richness. A harsh, musty taste of sage overwhelmed the accompanying Japanese eggplant, glazed red onions and blood orange and port sauce. A slice of hazelnut mousse-filled sponge cake seemed unimaginative and dry.
Service ranges from polished and professional to rough at the edges.
The wine list is expensive and may seem daunting. However, cellarmaster Darryl Beeson, formerly of The Mansion on Turtle Creek , promises that he's laying in some more affordable wines. If you don't find what you want for what you're willing to pay on the printed list, ask Mr. Beeson or one of the four sommeliers. There are some relatively affordable hidden treasures. That's available, too.