Inside were brilliant frescoes of the Last Judgment, begun in 1447 by Fra Angelico and completed by Luca Signorelli in 1504. Signorelli's muscle-bound nudes are said to have inspired Michelangelo's work on the Sistine Chapel. Assisi is worth a visit on any autumn itinerary, but especially this year, before the crowds return. Italy is expecting twice as many tourists as usual for the Jubilee Year of 2000, designated by the Catholic Church to celebrate another millennium of Christianity. An upscale alternative is the Hotel Subasio, an elegantly converted monastery next to the basilica.
Some rooms have views of the valley, frescoes on the ceiling and antique furniture.
I looked in on the Hotel Umbra in a 16th century townhouse off Assisi's main square, the Piazza del Comune.