The floating emerald islands of the Indonesian archipelago have, for centuries, been a magnet to a diverse range of people. Chinese and Indian traders, European colonisers, proselytising missionaries, wayward adventurers, mining companies, intrepid travellers and package tourists have all, at one time or another, been attracted by its sandalwood and spices breezes, its Bali Hai lifestyle and its magnificent beaches, mountains and volcanoes. But another frequent visitor to Indonesia is the war correspondent covering the latest uprising, coup or riot. The myth of a paradisical country blessed with natural resources is often put to the test by deep racial divides, religious warring, high-handed autocracy, government corruption, economic mismanagment and natural disasters. The latest round of sectarian violence and military muscle-flexing has made Indonesia a problematic destination for most western travellers.
Warning Visiting Indonesia is still a risky proposition.
Although the situation in East Timor has stabilised, travel in the area is difficult - the infrastructure is creaky and unreliable and there are mounting health concerns. Aceh, in northern Sumatra, has also been rocked by civil strife as massacres under military rule have been uncovered and the local independence movement gathers steam. Elsewhere in Indonesia, nationalists see Australian and UN intervention in East Timor as unwarranted imperialist meddling in Indonesian internal affairs. There is strong potential for the ugly mood to turn violent. Separatist guerrillas fighting for an independent Irian Jaya kidnapped 11 people, including six European expatriates, in January 1996 in Irian Jaya's Snow Mountains and held them hostage for four months.