He nodded solemnly. And off he went to fetch menus. This conversation took place at Bice, where service is not exactly known for self-effacement. I've always had faint praise for Bice, considering it to be a restaurant where the food was good but overpriced, with a little attitude on the side. Well, it has been a refreshingly different Bice that I've visited in the last month or so.
Waiters are friendly and quick with answers and recommendations.
The hostess, smiling and cheerful, is not some sullen Euro-trash fashion slave who regards your arrival as an intrusion on her personal time. Bice, it seems, has grown up. But Bice's stylish interiors, superior table appointments and overall creature comforts go a long way to justifying the tariff. Most important, the food is dramatically better. The chef is Cristiano Bassani, who joined Bice in March.