These days the chef is Scott McEvoy, whose cooking style lies in the heart of Italy but with a few contemporary flourishes. The building, in a nondescript neighborhood of strip malls and chain restaurants, once housed the Simon House and later Ciatti's, an Italian restaurant chain known more for bulk than quality. Zappa's updated the interior with a soothing color scheme in the deep purple to brown spectrum. Pieces of ornamental ironwork and a glass-topped table with a large vase of white flowers add elegance to the otherwise simple dining room. The bar and lounge, in the next room, are a destination in itself, perfect for a glass of wine and some appetizers.
Servers begin the meal with excellent bread.
Though it is not a product of the kitchen, it has a firm, chewy texture with a crisp crust. Elegant sapphire-blue bottles at each table contain roasted garlic oil. Skip the butter. Hints of bacon make this delicate soup a success. The vinaigrette is made with aged sherry and a few bits of grana padono, a medium-hard cheese from Italy's Po plateau with a flavor similar to an aged parmesan.