All of it is eye candy. Much of it is mouth candy, too. They're ordering tall mai tais and zombies, winks to those umbrellaed extravaganzas of our lost youth. Made here with fresh fruit juice and top-shelf rum, they still tend to be on the sweet side. You're better off with one of several Asian beers or even the nonalcoholic Haake Beck, which actually tastes like beer.
Wine is less of a gamble than it usually is in a Chinese eatery.
Wine might be just the thing with plump, delicately battered sesame shrimp, possibly the best starter. Or Chang's spicy chicken, garlic-spiked and crunchy, to wrap in giant lettuce leaves. Salads, more on the American end of the equation, lack this kind of appeal. Warm duck with red cabbage is all cabbage, enough to provide roughage for five or six people, which is how many you'll need to unearth the slivers of duck. And though there's nothing wrong with Long Life Noodles that a dash of hot oil won't fix, a kitchen that can soar the way this one can should know better.