For a sumptuous treat nothing can match whole Dungeness crab, not braised in the familiar way with black bean sauce but, like the whole fish, steamed with ginger and green onions. This style doesn't overwhelm the subtle flavor of the meat, and the crabs even appear to plump up and yield more than usual. For these blustery winter days, ceramic-pot cooking is especially welcome. Some 20 combinations will complicate your choosing, but for a succulent assortment you can't do better than roast pork, oyster, tofu and cabbage. The clay pot allows for slow braising that keeps ingredients from disintegrating and retains their distinct flavors and textures.
Vegetables are outstanding here.
But French and Chinese cuisines, the world's two greatest, have virtually nothing in common. Golden Horse boasts a gigantic menu, and I have a two-year plan to make my way through most of it.