The Four Seasons Hotel chain has proven time and again that its devotion to its dining rooms is every bit as unstinting as its devotion to all other aspects of mounting deluxe hostelries. The dining room here has a self-contained and segmented look that overrides the sense of dining in a hotel. Chef Brooke Vosika has a very good eye and palate for the seasons' best produce, meat, and seafood, so his seared Baja scallops with a beet tartar and green tomatoes picks up flavors from around the United States. But he knows he's in the South, so he offers delightful dishes like Vidalia onion tea with goat cheese ravioli, a crab cake with shrimp spring roll and cabbage slaw, and, for the vegetarian, sweet-potato ravioli with pine nuts and raisins. For dessert don't miss his old-fashioned blackberry cobbler with cr me fra che ice cream.
Service is genteel.
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