Just make sure that you stay away from sharks and that you remember the physics of surfing. Well then pay attention to this crash course in periodic waves so that you know the basics about the waves which you will soon be riding. The basics about all types of waves . There are two points to remember about the water waves and also waves in general.
Waves are disturbances .
This means that an ocean wave isn't a bulk of water that moves from one place to another such as a bulk of water that moves in a river. Ocean waves are really disturbances traveling across the surface of the water. This means that the water particles that constitute a wave don't actually move any horizontal distance away from their respective spots, but they are actually disturbed in an up and down motion. Waves carry energy . Waves aren't just big walls of water, they are actually sources that carry energy from one place to another place.