But the daily crowds make it hard to admire Charlotte Amalie's ambiance. On-island vacationers are affected by the daily deluge. Just try to shop in Charlotte Amalie at noon, when crowds are so thick on the sidewalks that you have to walk in the street. You'll be fighting for a glimpse. If you're spending time on-island because you want to escape, rather than court, crowds, it helps to be flexible.
Some vacationers isolate themselves on campus at one of the island's numerous beach resorts.
This applies particularly to renowned Magens Bay, a gorgeous beach that's packed at midday but almost ethereal in its emptiness in early evening. Like Frenchtown, a five-minute walk from downtown Charlotte Amalie. Settled in the 18th century by French Huguenots from St. Bart's and now a neighborhood of fishermen, it is still home to some original descendants and you can occasionally hear locals conversing in French. It's also the locale of some of the island's best restaurants. On the east end is Red Hook, principally known as the jumping-off point for the ferry ride to St. John.