Taking some cues from neighboring Cafe Absinthe, D'VINE , an elegant new Wicker Park bistro, is clubby and sleek. Appetizers include indulgences like a pan-roasted squab breast with wild mushroom risotto, squab consomme, and black truffles and a classic foie gras that's given a contemporary spin with caramelized banana and white truffled honey. Jason Sleight, with 35 currently available by the glass and over 350 bottles in the cellar.
Service is pleasant and professional.
It's a family affair, with Melidas's wife, Maria, in charge behind the scenes and Alexander's brother Steve cheerfully managing the floor. A few traditional dishes like moussaka, stuffed peppers, and roasted leg of lamb with oregano, rosemary, and mint aioli are also available. Everything's reasonably priced, and it's self-service at lunch, when it's usually packed. A subterranean bakery turns out fantastic breads and pastries that are sold retail along with colorful gift baskets and a variety of chocolates, olive oils, and vinegars. Attached to the retail wine shop, the sleek two-story bar is stocked with a selection of over 100 wines, ports, Madeiras, sherries, and cognacs available by the glass.