You never know quite what to expect. The feeling is of being at his home, not his multi-use business. The menu is full of inspiration. Things got rolling quickly on a recent evening with angel hair pasta. Obviously cooked to order, it was light and perky, topped with a choice of sauces ranging from simple pomodoro made with chopped plum tomato, onion, garlic and basil to a more robust pancetta sauce made with tomato and peppery Italian bacon fried in a little oil.
Soups are always that day's.
Ours was a first-rate clam chowder, the pieces of clam as tender as turkey, flavored with celery, onion and parsley, the creamy chowder buttery and bright, without use of heavy thickener. It was piping hot. White bean is sometimes served or potato puree made with chicken stock. When it comes to the house salad, ask for it dressed in house oil and vinegar. Only a few drops are needed and it pings with pucker.