The devout believe that the remains of Saint James were found in this city, on the spot where the cathedral was built. Santiago is therefore considered Catholicism's third holiest place, after Rome and Jerusalem, and since the Middle Ages millions have traversed the pilgrims' route to the city. The rain begins again, and water gleams in sunlight. It rains in Santiago, my sweet love. White camellia of the air, shadowy shines the sun.
Umbrellas pop up along the street in a synchronized dance.
The local people conspire with their climate. Natalia, our guide, directs us where to put our luggage. The first official meal of the trip is lunch at this hotel, once a hospital for the nobility. I look at my nine utensils, and a table companion kindly tells me to begin from the outside and work toward the plate. She is the well-manicured wife of a former U.S. diplomat, so I take her word for it.