Free parking in lot. Smoking in lounge only. Pastas account for half the dinner entrees. To make it, Crisp stuffs two oversized handmade pillows of dough with a garlicky blend of chicken, mozzarella, parmesan and ricotta, then drenches them in a cream sauce studded with pistachios and grapes. The result mingles multiple textures and flavors in a dish of earthy appeal.
Warm fruit plays a role in other entrees.
Ruby's mashes potatoes with the skins as a rustic accompaniment to the main courses. But the real scene stealer among the sides is the chiffonade of cabbage, the shredded leaves sauteed with nutmeg, parmesan and cream in an irresistible interplay of edgy and lush. The chocolate in the stacked-tall take on mousse is closer to fudge than froth. The dense bread pudding, served in a pool of sweet caramel sauce, is a simpler, and safer, bet. The wine list is Maura Crisp's domain, and she has assembled a relatively extensive lineup concentrating on Northwest and California wines, with a smattering of European imports.