Those that survived were scattered all over the world. From once being called the Empire of the three seas, Armenia is now a landlocked fraction of its former self. Now, the IMF, World Bank and various development agencies have all descended on the place with their programs for this, assistance for that and structural adjustment for the other. But many of the Westerners that do come here merely smile at Armenia's feeble attempts at creating a free market and a democracy. To be fair, the government has put in place much free market legislation, but even though Armenia was once one of the intellectual and technical powerhouses of the Soviet Union, it feels as if all the new flags and buntings have been put up for a guest that still hasn't arrived.
Unemployment is high, and people struggle to make a living.
Still, sometimes, just sometimes, you actually see history. Not big and monumental and videotaped, but small and intimate and tangible. Like when you watch people listen to a toast and enjoy its art and appreciate its sentiment. The art is well developed, skillful and unique. And perhaps, as the city lights of Yerevan grow in the dark like some forgotten constellation, it isn't strange at all that Armenians should raise their glasses, again and again, to something so simple and bland as trade and tourism.