Downtown Cruz Bay, the island's commercial center, is home to about a dozen restaurants, along with a growing number of shops and lodgings. But the total number of hotel rooms, rental homes and condos is still down in the neighborhood of 1,000. Speed limits are 10 mph in the city and 20 in the country, for reasons that quickly become clear. The roads climb and corkscrew at crazy angles. Moreover, for some reason everybody drives on the left, even though Danes drive on the right and the cars have steering wheels on the left, American style.
Taxis are popular.
Dozens of prime beaches encircle the island, and choosing among them is mostly a matter of taste. Trunk Bay is the most popular. Park rangers lead hikers on the route, a tour that is frequently booked up days in advance. I reserved my spot and joined two dozen fellow hikers at 10 one sunny morning. From the trail head on Centerline Road, ranger Don Near showered us with history and botany as he led us down the trail.