It's billed as a spicy dish and, yes, we have ignition. There's also a very good piece of pan-seared sea bass, with heavily garlicked mashed potatoes and caramelized leeks bolstered with a vigorous dash of balsamic vinegar. Chicken breast, matched to pecan stuffing and a Michigan cherry compote, sounded promising but the chicken breast was overcooked. Rachel Conger's desserts work nicely for the most part. It just looks awkward.
Service is uneven.
Waiters are friendly enough but generally need more seasoning before the dining rooms will run efficiently. This is a smart strategy. Nearly two dozen wines are available by the glass. Lovells of Lake Forest 915 S. Waukegan Rd. Vettel is the Chicago Tribune restaurant critic.