Flowing straight from the glacier above, filtered through passages inside the massively contorted mountains that surround us, the water feels just a few degrees shy of ice. It is the first time I have drunk water straight from the earth. But because of the impressive altitude, we could be the first humans to cup our hands and dip them into the icy rivulet. Sarchu is our last high altitude camp. The inhospitable terrain of Ladakh.
Today is the turning point in our trip.
After crossing the Bara Lacha La, we will descend more than 10,000 to the relatively more hospitable valley known as the Lahaul. Silently, I'm telling myself not to get intimidated by the thought of this morning's climb as our guide, Glenn Rowley, pushes me to get on my mountain bike. You'd better get going. A ruddy-faced Englishman, he's headed treks into remote valleys in the Himalayas for the past 17 years. He doesn't hesitate when he needs to push along a reluctant client.