Not in a million years. The rest of it, though, is an uninterrupted vista of mediocrity and silliness, one big infomercial for Emeril. Those less popular items like broiled mackarel and calves' liver are kept festering in a dark corner of the reach-in because they look good on the menu. Look at your waiter's face. He could save your life with a raised eyebrow or sigh.
Seafood is a tricky business.
By the time it's cut, the actual cost of each piece of cleaned fillet costs the chef more than twice that amount, and he'd greatly prefer to sell it than toss it in the garbage. Perhaps surprisingly, there's not a price on Bourdain's head for treachery. In fact, I've never had so many free cocktails in my life. The book came during a happier and romantic time at Les Halles. And this is certainly no prissy little gourmand guide.