Salt levels approach those of the Dead Sea. Wine prices are expense-account hefty. If you can handle all that, say hello to a suburban steak house that really works. Conceived as a stylish, comfy laboratory in which food and drink pairings may be explored, Doug Strickland and Jamie Adams Mediterranean bistro offers seasonal, albeit notably saline Cal-Italian cuisine. Menus suggest wines for almost everything.
Service varies from slow to friendly.
The crowd is Midtown hot. Atmosphere, service, wine list and the stylishly rehabbed industrial building are all notable. The god of authenticity is in the details. Yes, it s possible to find other versions of fruity, black bean dessert soup and sauteed water spinach in garlic, hot pepper and bean sauce. But the substitutes are far less delicious than those at Kong Lang.