But is does not exclude appropriate alternatives. Avoid red wines, though. Very salty food is difficult to match. While Beluga caviar goes well with Champagne, eat the saltier Sevruga with schnapps or aquavit.
Smoked food is a different department.
With smoked salmon, serve the aromatic whites, a Fino Sherry, or a rich, full California Chardonnay such as those from Napa, Sonoma or Alexander Valley. Top white Graves, e.g. mature Chateau Laville Haut- Brion or Domaine de Chavalier, also suit well. Smoked trout and mackerel go well with most of the Alsace grape varieties, or a Sauvignon Blanc from California. Surprisingly, smoked fish is also excellent with German wines which have a touch of sweetness, since this is alwyas balanced by a refreshing acidity. Chops, steaks and spareribs go wonderfully with zingy Zinfandel, mouthfuls of good Cabernet and clearly defined European tastes like Rioja and the reds of Catalonia.