Everyone on the hair-raising coach ride through the empty desert to Jordan has their own story to tell. Nikki van der Gaag reports.
Tears drip down the woman's face as the blue coach draws out of the central bus station in Baghdad.
She waves to the small group seeing her off until even by craning her neck she can see them no longer. She is a large woman, mid-length brown hair pulled back into a pony tail, wearing a smart skirt and a patterned blouse with gold buttons. A large man snores loudly, mouth wide open. In the quiet of the ladies' toilet, I say hello to the two Shi'a women and the little boy. She is dead.