Most do not allow surfing within 300 feet of any structures. If you want to try a board sport, but don't care to venture out into the waves, try skim boarding. Using a small flat board at the ocean's edge, you can gain as much speed as if you were skateboarding.
Skim boards are available for sale or for rent at most surf shops.
It's easy to become distracted by the waves rolling in, and to get caught up in the thrill, but keep in mind that your kayak can be dangerous to others. Do not cut across the path of someone actively surfing. Rent a long board from one of the surf shops and take a lesson or two from the pros.