THE city's preservation laws protect architectural landmarks, but not sentimental landmarks. The stuffy old joint was often empty.
Some dishes work.
And they're generous. But while the Edwardian Room at least felt like part of New York, disembodied One C.P.S. no longer even feels like part of the Plaza. Thank the genius who closed off the original grand lobby entrance in favor of a side door to nowhere. Poor Adam Tihany played a weak hand well, turning the barn into a brasserie, with banquettes and open sightlines. The dark oak ceiling is intact.