I'm not disappointed. After all, I'm standing on the highest point of the lowest point in Europe. But the wind is sapping my heat, and I hustle down for the shelter of a single willow tree at the edge of a lily-pad marsh. The tent goes up, and out comes the stove to fire up a pot of steaming ramen noodles. Geese honk overhead in the dying light.
Unseen birds clamber through the reeds.
I climb inside the tent and fluff up my sleeping bag. With my little lantern I study the map and smile. A month on the road. I've grown fond of sweet tea and sunflower seeds. Russia is not what I expected.