The dark wood echoes the Four Seasons overhead. And the tolerable din lends a buzz that's so far missing from executive chef Luc Dimnet's kitchen. A week later, there are Scofidio and Diller in a booth with another couple and the couple's adorable infant. The baby dozes. So does the service.
Used plates sit, and sit, on the table.
The waitress doesn't know what's in the drinks. The old Brasserie's mystique was built on the fact it was open 24 hours. That somehow made it interesting even if you never showed up later than lunch. The only gimmick the new one needs is better food. The content of this feature is updated weekly on Wednesdays.