The setting is sparse, with Lucite salt and pepper grinders and a bottle of wine as the only centerpiece on each of the 15 or so tables. I promise you won't need the seasoning. Chef Klime has done it all with the help of his affable wife and a superb wait staff. Enjoy his unique sparkle at this little-known hideaway, which attracts stars like Julio Iglesias and other discriminating guests. A full menu is available, but to order anything but stone crabs is unthinkable, and the servers will let you know it.
Service tends to be brusque and pushy.
The curved entryway of this well-established enclave of reliable, if slightly overpriced, Italian cuisine is abuzz nightly. Reams of locals and tourists wait for a seat at one of the small tables.