Most of the buildings around the square have been rebuilt. A few have scars from the mortar blast. The city is quiet on Sundays. Most shops are closed, but a few groceries are open. Customers leave with shopping bags holding the food they need for the day.
Young couples stroll the streets, hugging and smiling at each other.
A few monuments survived the shelling and gun fire. Two statues stand at the end of one street, memorials to a painter and a poet from the city. When the Georgia group, escorted by National Guard soldiers, walked into a downtown caf , four young people glanced their way. The two men and two women kept talking, puffing cigarettes and drinking the steaming, black coffee in their mugs. By now, they're used to seeing American soldiers walking down there streets.