Down among them, deep bays, secret coves, curving arms of high overgrown land and soft beaches of coral and sand await the explorer. The smallest of the Rock Islands appear to float like fantasy ships resting on the reef. The larger ones snake for miles among smaller outcroppings and sandy bays. Here meter-long endangered sea turtles glide like ghosts below the boat. Though Palauans come to picnic, fish, and play every weekend, out here you can always find solitude and a feeling of having discovered the prototype for Eden.
Wonderful life abounds despite increasing environmental threats.
On one island hike, up a steep jungle track in search of the mysterious Jellyfish Lake, we came across an immature tropic bird, wary as it watched us pass. Undisturbed, dozens of species of exotic birds nest and play far from civilization. We heard them scream warnings across the water and call in sweet bell tones. As it folded its wings we recognized a fruitbat the size of a heron. Out on the reef, herons the colour of rust stood still, spear-like beaks poised for fishing.