Peaks rise on one side with wisps of cloud obscuring lofty 1,200-metre summits. Few buildings blemish the treeless slopes. Except for the blazer blue Aegean lapping far below, the land looks as wild and desolate as Nevada cowboy country. After a two-hour drive, I round a corner and see the homes of Olympos clinging like glitter glued to a mountain crest. Shops, tavernas and residences line a maze of streets so narrow that two donkeys would have to honk to pass.
Waitresses serve coffee and beer.
Storefront and sidewalk merchants offer everything from tourist trinkets to fine handcrafts. I remain in Olympos until after the last tourist bus leaves. For those inclined to night life, Karpathos town provides a happening place with boutique shopping and outdoor restaurants. Music blares from discos where exuberant dancers boogie on table tops and fling napkins to vent their enthusiasm. Ear-bleed rock 'n' raunch, however, is not the sound I crave.