There is one area of the menu with which I have problems. I cannot seem to warm up to the red-sauce dishes. The only one I remember ever having liked was the old stuffed tufoli, but that's a distant memory. The sauce makes no detectable statement to my palate, whether it's over pasta or dressing up veal Parmigiana. For dessert, you almost certainly want the very fine, incomparably light bread pudding.
Service is neighborly and chummy.
The wine list is no landmark, but it too has been improving for years. Lunch here is not only good, it's cheap. Volume Eight, Number Ninety-Seven. . . Please read it.