Otherwise I'd look for a crowded day. The reason is that when this food is fresh from the kitchen, it's quite a deal. But its high quality dissipates fast under those handsome copper covers. Franklin Exchange, new last fall, is large, comfortable and quiet enough to make it a good choice for serious conversation.
Trouble creeps in at the hot food section.
The duck may start out succulent and crisp, but it quickly grows soggy. Rotisserie chicken turns stiff, moist fresh salmon with capers becomes a bit dry and fishy, and pepper chicken loses its savor. Roasted potatoes and green vegetables evolve into mush. For dessert you can choose from a tray of French pastries, though after this substantial buffet, the slices of melon look more appropriate. A mericans are so obsessed with dieting that I've long imagined the restaurant of the future as one where the waiter would bring food for you to look at and to smell, then whisper in your ear its calorie count and remove the plate, untouched, from your table.