And should a seafood-averse diner wind up at Shiro's, the chicken teriyaki is both admirably restrained and satisfying. It's the simple elegance of the food that commands attention at Shiro's, not the d cor. A separate dining nook lies on the far side of the entryway. Shiro's draws a mix of ages, ethnicities and socioeconomic types, from Belltown hipsters to sushi-savvy businesspeople traveling through town. The feel is casual, the mood upbeat.
Service is friendly, though the timing of courses can be a little haphazard.
Desserts are insignificant, on the order of green-tea ice cream. Wine, also, gets pretty short shrift, with the choices limited to a few serviceable California and Northwest offerings. Beer is a more popular match for sushi, and Shiro's stocks the usual Japanese imports. There are cocktails, too, but the blue-chip beverages are sakes, with more than 10 choices. Post-Intelligencer food critics arrive unannounced and pay for all meals and services.