She grew up in Dorset, England, and now lives in her husband s family castle, complete with polo grounds, in West Sussex. Exedra, in the old harbor, is Tree s favorite restaurant in the world. The most romantic restaurant is Liotrivi, on the jetty, and the best fish restaurant is Patralis, a family-run place on the seafront. Don t miss an evening of eating mezes and drinking ouzaki at Pahni, a cult hangout set in a converted donkey shed by the old harbor. Be sure to try the owner s retsina, which contains pine resin from local trees.
Tree says it s an acquired taste that s worth acquiring.
Two of the most helpful guidebooks are The Rough Guide to the Greek Islands and Lonely Planet s Greek Islands. The big event of the year is the Armata, held the second week of September to commemorate the defeat, in 1821, of the Ottomon fleet after the flagship was sunk during the war of independence. In a dramatic re-enactment, a mock Turkish galleon is blown up in front of the Dapia, amid a pandemonium of fireworks. Renting a motorbike or bicycle and circumnavigating the island is another nice way to see the sights. The sounds that will greet you everywhere are those of Papiamento.