Also on the island is a late 19th century Catholic chapel with Irish-themed stained glass of Finnbarr's friends and fellow saints. My favorite is St. Gorbeta, known today for the legend of her bees driving off a Viking attack. A beehive hums with activity at her feet. A long bus ride around the Ring of Kerry, a road along a jagged coastline and a huge tourist draw, brings us to the fishing village of Portmagee. By law, only five or six boats daily, carrying about 75 passengers, are allowed to make the eight-mile run to the islands.
Sporadic sunlight filters through the mostly overcast day.
Skellig Michael grows before us as we approach its only landing area. Each of us disembarks precariously as ocean swells heave the boats up to the landing steps. Ashore, the first quarter of the climb is an asphalted path rising to stairs. The early monks landed at the same place, but began climbing 600 steps, straight up. I think of their loads of dirt.