The rubes get lucky in a good vintage and are lost the rest of the time. Good winemakers are sensitive to the vintage and adjust their winemaking accordingly. Taste wines from vintages such as 1991 and 1992. This is where you can separate good winemakers from poor. It won the tasting, by the way.
Some estates use lots of new oak.
Some are great. Some are schlock. We don't have a large or deep collection of Burgundy. We select wines we like. If the critics like them, fine.