A more obvious crowd pleaser is beef tenderloin, surprisingly flavorful for that overrated cut, accompanied by a small Stonehenge of stuffed browned potatoes and dark mushrooms. But what outshines all of these entrees is a risotto, perfectly creamy and utterly rich, with slivers of duck and gizzard confit, ghostly near-transparent little mushrooms, thin stalks of green asparagus and curled shavings of Parmesan. I've skipped over the seafood entrees. With good reason. Lobster stuffed with cauliflower in a frothy, faintly curried sauce is just short of wonderful, since the lobster meat is undercooked.
Turbot is correct and pure, but has little flavor.
It's upstaged by its warmed romaine and figs that look like lacquered toys. Sea bass is equally bland, despite its pomegranate and almond sauce. And the croustillant of salmon and tuna is a gorgeous yin-yang design, the two fish wrapped together in seaweed. But it's all show and no flavor. After the entree, I'm torn.