But these days, it is reorientating its economy, led by agricultural exports from timber to fertilizer, toward Europe. Vilnius can also be enjoyed as an ancient center of civilization in Europe's once-pagan north. It retains the largest ''old city'' in Eastern Europe, but if you want to stroll from one historic coffee shop to another, you're better off going to Prague. To catch the fascination of Vilnius, visitors need to pick out what interests them and plan carefully. With a little attention, the city will yield surprising glimpses of Europe's roots.
Vibrancy is tangible as places open, including good restorations.
The ghetto, source of Vilnius's cultural aura for centuries when the city was a major center of Jewish learning, is coming back. It will take time before visitors can once again simply stumble onto an evocative historic memory. Meanwhile, as Lithuanians rediscover their links to the West, Vilnius guarantees some moving moments. THE BUZZ Lithuanians are passionate about rejoining the West as soon as possible. Most people are bursting to talk about NATO, the European Union and Lithuania's chances of joining both organizations.