Styled to awe easily impressed trendies, its meticulously culled specimens from the American bounty can make you moan with joy. But take the little matter of mustard fruit plunked down in the middle of our table, with no hint which dish it belongs with. For a house dedicated to honesty, Craft is full of flimflammery. A diabolically confusing menu and tables the size of Lincoln Navigators guarantee you'll overorder. At dinner, drinks take 30 minutes to arrive.
Service drifts like pollen in the wind.
The waiter unleashes a torrent of tortured English to explain the menu. Everything is served its is own semi-communal vessel, saving the kitchen the trouble of presentation. The shtick is to make us assemble a meal from scratch - a test of our own kitchen craft. But the original menu listed nine categories. In the restaurant's first weeks, tables were taking hours to order.