Happily, it's very good already. The 50-seat Near West Sider occupies the space that was once Savannah's. The d cor isn't fancy, but the room is attractive and comfortable, with white linen-topped tables that are generously spaced. Two window-side tables, raised above floor level and flanking the front door, are especially appealing. Well-worn hardwood floors and a handsome oak bar give the room a sense of permanence.
Smoking is permitted at a few back tables only.
A sweet nectarine glaze works very well with crispy wontons stuffed with goat cheese, lump crabmeat and an aggressive jolt of jalapeno. But hamachi tartare, dressed with a sesame-chive emulsion, is lovely, and seared foie gras is a pretty thing, perched on matchsticks of beet and Granny Smith apple. Whatever the number of courses, what emerges will be more than you expect. Though the dessert list needs more variety, the few items that are available aren't bad at all. By the time you read this, Foster may have added a cheese plate as well.