We began to understand the French wisdom of the preeminence of meals. Yet this was the most rural territory yet, featuring acres of sunflowers and vineyards brimming with clusters of ripening grapes. In France, even nowhere has a three-star restaurant. Set among trees and including its own swan-crowned pond, La Closerie was indeed open for lunch. We were led down a labyrinth of hallways and across stone floors to a sunny vestibule and our table.
Travelers know that few things in life fulfill every expectation.
A fully realized French lunch served by a great restaurant is one of the few that does. Finally the moment came when we knew we must get back on the bikes. But we set off, taking twice as long to go back down the long driveway as we had to come up it, wobbling down the long country road toward the next town of les Montils. Two miles on, we learned that les Montils means The Heights. We were facing our first and only real hill.