Since the age of 15, he followed his father around Les Halles, the wholesale food market, learning to purchase meat, fish, poultry and vegetables. Today, his father joins the bistrotier ranks, with his own booming establishment, Les Fontaines, at 9 Rue Soufflot, in the fifth arrondissement. Meats and charcuterie come from ''down home,'' the Auvergnat village of Calvinet where the family still runs the town bistro. About the only thing I don't like about Au Bon Accueil is the fact that the clientele is made up of diehard smokers, the sort that set their Marlboros on the table even before they sit down, clutching them like a life-support system, puffing between bites and phrases. The simple, unadorned restaurant is, alas, too small to merit a nonsmoking section.
Service can also be annoyingly slow.
Closed Saturday and Sunday.