If the restaurant were actually in SOMA, it would be a haven of cozy cush, but seeing as it is poised on a Sausalito jetty with a 180-degree view of San Francisco Bay, it's more of a Northern California fantasy come true. Nothing is bad. The service is such that you never have to pour your own Pellegrino. The tables are large enough for even the broadest set of elbows. The wine list is long, heavily Californian and stocked with plenty of odd varietals.
Waiters have an intuitive sense of wine pairings.
Even the blended hot teas are subtle and delicious. If one thing is missing, it's the San Francisco youthfuls. The crowd mostly consists of attractive, healthy-looking elder Northern Californians sipping chablis and giggling to one another. San Francisco suckahs who haven't heard about Ondine yet. We've heard, by the way, that the Sunday brunch is one of the best in the area.