Nearing the sacred structure, I hear the steady, monotone chants of Buddhist monks and the faint tinkling of delicate brass wind chimes. Through an open doorway, I see a room full of saffron-robed, barefoot men reciting their morning prayers in unison. I leave my sneakers outside the door next to piles of well-worn, brown leather sandals, and I tiptoe in. Burning incense saturates the tepid air, and hundreds of amber candles glow around the tranquil room. From atop the shrine, a massive golden image of Buddha gazes down upon the setting.
Visitors are welcome in the sanctuary as long as they are quiet, courteous and properly attired.
The shoes-off custom remains an absolute must, and men and women are asked to dress conservatively. Shorts are a no-no, and shoulders should be covered. I kneel on the rich teakwood floor near the back and sit motionless, remembering to keep my feet respectfully behind me, pointed away from the Buddha. Ceiling fans rotate slowly as the rhythmic repetitions of the prayers lull me into a contemplative state. Thailand has 19,000 temples, according to the nation's department of religious affairs, and no two are alike.