The most distinctive are the house-made Shanghai noodles, alone or in Yang Chow soup. Among the entrees are everyday Sichuan, Hunan and Cantonese stir-fries, but there are greater treasures. Shredded chicken with spicy pickled vegetables plays Ping-Pong in your mouth, as the mild flavor of the tender white meat bounces against the peppered brininess of crisp cabbage and carrots, a kind of crunchy sauerkraut. Shrimp dishes are not nearly as fresh as the fish. But pork dishes are consistently good.
Vegetables are key.
Even cauliflower is teamed with pork, to the benefit of both. Dinner ends with the all-American fortune cookie. Or maybe another order of crispy walnuts. And surely a collection of cardboard boxes to carry home enough for tomorrow and tomorrow and tomorrow. Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda.