Inspired by the abundance of freshly harvested garlic at our farmers markets, I leafed through a stack of my favorite cookbooks, curious how other writers approached the classic sauce of Provence. Quantities ranged from 1 clove to 1 head of garlic, with most calling for 3 cloves for each cup of olive oil. Garlic should shout its presence, dominate the conversation, and linger on your breath long after you've licked the serving bowl clean. A sauce that seems too aggressive right after it is made becomes perfectly balanced as it sits. In Provence, every cook seems to have his or her own version, with the heart of each being the sauce itself, plenty of freshly harvested vegetables and poached salt cod.
Some versions call for snails, others for stewed squid.
Lydie Marshall, an author and cooking teacher in Nyons, in northern Provence, adds spit-roasted chicken from the market near her home, if unexpected guests arrive. Bastille Day, July 14, is a perfect time for a garlicky celebration. For weeks now, there has been sensational garlic available at our farmers markets. It's hard to go wrong if you use fresh garlic from your own garden or from a farmer whose crops you enjoy, eggs from happy chickens, and flavorful olive oil. But it is entirely possible to prepare it for a smaller number, and there is no reason you shouldn't.