This open entrance is heated in cold weather and separated from the restaurant's interior by large panes of glass. During off hours, iron grates swing shut to close it off. The restaurant itself is arranged on four levels, one level slightly above the other, and each made into a discrete area with just a few tables or booths. No tea lights. Just cruets of olive oil and balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper shakers and utensils.
Service is good.
The young waiter who took my extensive order didn't need to write it down, relying accurately on his memory. He was swift in bringing the food and just as swift carrying the finished plates away. When bread arrives, it's a basket of light, bready focaccia, somewhere between white bread and real focaccia. While modest of flavor, it serves well as a sop for mopping up olive oil or liquids on the plate. Nine wines are available by the glass.