From there it s a short but steep hike to Foxes Caves, which are full of harmless fruit bats and suggestive dripstone formations. The dance style here is ultrasalacious, the air heady with illicit aromas, the decor a whirl of Day-glo walls shining under black lights. The bar offers cocktails you ve never heard of. Then slather on insect repellent and discover a world far removed from rum punch. Boardwalks loop through groves of native swamp cabbage palm, buffalo thatch, and tangled mangroves that form a refuge for crocodiles, waterfowl, and ospreys.
Trees canopy the road, bending to each other like kissing lovers.
Mellow jazz and New Age music add romantic notes to this hip place, which draws Jamaicans from all over the isle. Firefly, his cottage located 18 miles east of Ocho Rios, offers jaw-dropping panoramas of both the scalloped coast and the Blue Mountains. The house is furnished as it was when Coward died, and such personal items as Hawaiian shirts and silk pj s are displayed in situ.