Mohammed Ali, the founder of modern Egypt, sent an army into the desert to end bloodshed by tribes fighting over water springs. Now buses arrive daily from Cairo and other cities bringing foreigners and Egyptians with a taste for the wilderness. Television is replacing folk tales, and many women no longer make typical wedding dresses adorned with embroidery and buttons. Siwa women have discarded hand-made silver jewelry for gold to imitate TV actresses. Their children disdain the old customs.
Taxi rides are negotiable.
Staying in a hotel can mean roughing it. Take loose cotton clothes and jacket for nights. But don't forget bathing suit for hot springs. Dipping in steamy spring at night is unforgettable. Sunglasses, sun block, comfortable shoes and mosquito repellents are essential, especially when camping.