During our five days of diving we went to four of the islands, emerging from the water each time with smiles and stories of rare fish. On our final day, we tried a spot called White Rock, off Isla Coronados. As we rose from the wall, a strong current pushed us alongside the island, forcing some underwater rock climbing as we made our way to the panga pickup point. You don't have to be an underwater rock climber to enjoy these islands. Guests must have a valid scuba certification card to dive without an escort here, and everyone is subjected to a friendly quiz about their experience and training.
Snorkeling is also a joy.
One day, the dive master, Chino, tied a rope to an oar and slowly putted ahead. A colony of frigate birds sat on the hot rocks, panting with spread wings. On the ride home, Fichman pointed out three pangas traveling very fast. Marijuana smugglers often traverse these waters after the harvest, ferrying their loads between the mainland and drop-offs south of Loreto. They often pull alongside slower boats, and their skippers ask to buy water, gas and food.