This is a great pick for those who like their duck unadultarated with fruity sauces. Ordered medium-rare, it arrives consistently pink throughout. Prime rib has more character when it has a crisp crust. Yet that level of seasoning seems to befit this place. Other entrees of interest are grilled lamb chops, broiled sea bass and a chicken pastry pie.
Service is well-paced and consistent.
Though clearly geared to the local market, the Range Line Inn is worth a drive for city residents to savor the quiet, low-key setting with just a hint of history. Special Nothing in the restaurant trade is more annoying than a fake diner. After the coffee shop closes in mid-afternoon, try the adjacent bar and dining room.