Couples stroll along the pathways at twilight among ducks, peacocks and iguanas, and dine at the several romantic restaurants, serenaded by musical trios. Although Varadero probably has more new housing than anywhere else in Cuba, it also is preserving its old. The area has a number of slightly disintegrating architectural treasures from the 1940s and '50s, when Varadero was a playground for rich Americans. Under restoration is a sandstone mansion overlooking the water reputedly once owned by Chicago gangster Al Capone. The Dupont Mansion also houses an exquisite restaurant in a breathtaking setting.
Waiters wear tuxedos, and reservations are recommended in high season.
For nightlife, Varadero is much like many resorts worldwide. The discos are so geared toward foreign tourists that none play more than one or two Cuban songs all night. La Rumba,'' a new, self-contained disco next to the Bella Costa hotel. Also try the ''Havana Club'' in town. In all of these clubs, expect to see many older male tourists dancing the night away with Cuban women half or even a third their age.