White Zinfandel is the best-known permutation of the grape, but styles range from sweet young things to brawny Sylvester Stallones in the bottle. From jug wine to serious reds crafted from venerable old vines, it is a varietal with multiple personalities. Joel Peterson, owner and wine-maker at Ravenswood, has long been a believer in what some call the American grape. He has been making top-notch Zinfandel in Sonoma County since 1976. Like any true American icon, Zinfandel is subject to fad and fashion.
Stylistic preferences change with the times.
The pendulum swung in the other direction, and wine-makers reined in the alcohol levels. The more restrained style and the one favored by Peterson is full-bodied, and based on balance, good fruit quality and just the right level of ripeness. Modern wine-making techniques allow tannin levels to be better controlled than in the past, but the result is nevertheless Zinfandel that is extremely fruity and alcoholic. I have to agree with Peterson's view that a little restraint is a good thing. Over the last couple of weeks, I have happily tasted my way through a number of the Zinfandels on the market.