I had the Rigatoni Brunelleschi, homemade pasta sauced with a winy beef stew, the best meat sauce you could ask for. After dinner, our waiter surprised us with a complimentary plate of cookies and teardrop flutes of a pale sparkling wine. It was exquisite, sweet and appley, a soft fog floating above the glass. Laurie, who isn't much of a wine drinker, drained her glass and finished my mother's. Our receipt revealed it to be a Moscato d'Asti.
Some occasions call for bubbly.
California and Spanish sparklers are a crapshoot.