The most noticeable strain is not really felt until the last rise before the third base camp. Headaches, commonly known as the first symptoms of altitude sickness, strike hard and furiously. The only comfort is the steel shack with the bunk bed, your waiting pen for the final ascent to the top. The worst 10 hours lie ahead, boredom sets in as you cannot sleep, read, smoke or play cards. Accompanying your headache is the worry and anticipation of what is ahead.
Tempers become short.
Apparently high altitudes fray peoples' tempers and is a primary reason why trips to the summit of Everest are aborted. Finally, it was time to leave for the final ascent. We started at midnight for the sole reason of being able to watch the sunrise at Uhuru Peak. We left the warmth of our sleeping bags for the midnight chill, everyone's breath was clearly visible. One foot after the next, no large steps, and in single file.