AZ's Yeo can boast of a stint with Bobby Flay and stewardship of two hip places in San Francisco. But she is not yet Tadashi Ono. On two recent evenings, most folks looked dressed for a browse at Kmart. All are eager to please, except for the ground-floor greeters. It sounds hard-edged but isn't, thanks to sinuous banquettes, mirrors and lace curtains.
Water spills silently down a wall.
Above the roof, with panes that slide open, towering brick walls duel to the sky. The room is mellow, the view overhead gritty - and each makes the other more interesting. Dinner begins auspiciously with three kinds of Indian-style bread. And no faulting radiant striped bass with lobster-fennel hash and sweet red chili sauce. As in most of Yeo's work, the flavors marry gracefully, without the shrillness of some fusion experiments.