The short path that curves along the bay provides a great view of the water and a glimpse into the town's history. Aafrika beach was buzzing with life in the 1920s and 30s when Haapsalu touted itself as a summer playground. A stone bench near the path is dedicated to the Russian composer, who made the town his regular haunt and wrote much of his music here. In Kiltsi, about 6km down the road towards Rohuk la, are the rapidly decaying remnants of runways, hangars and other fun structures left behind since the base closed in the early 1990s. Visitors are warned to stick close the walls or stay out of the buildings altogether since chucks of roof occasionally rain down.
Tourist information can give directions to the base, which is spread over a large area.
In Your Pocket Vana-Viru 4, EE10111 Tallinn, Estonia, tel. In Your Pocket Ltd.