It will prove spicy enough to play off the pyrotechnics of aptly-named chef Katy Sparks. Kabocha squash soup, a creamless puree inventively seasoned, vanquishes all aches. And sweetwater shrimp, plump critters, swim in chanterelle ragout with fried zucchini and thyme - a little ocean of complementary flavors and textures. You ought to see the men's room,'' I say. And they are full of surprises, like the crackling macadamia couscous that pops up under pancetta-wrapped yellowfin tuna that could be served hotter.
Sea bass is sauteed in stock fortified with sake that gives the fish a sweet zing.
Roasted loin of venison gets its kick from fox grape poivrade, with red wine, peppercorns and juniper berries. That's all Katy's work. Blame Sparks' sensuous way with flavors, as sure as Nabokov's with language. Blame my moviemaker pal Don, who's telling Sharon Stone stories. The women, too, grow more appealing with each course.