The interior is painted matte black except for some glowing translucent wall sculpture and a giant Tinkertoy hanging against some brick.
Soft jazz plays unobtrusively in the background.
With its good vodka poured gently over its sweet tomato juice, you could aim your straw to the depth of flavor or alcohol of your choice. Hash browns were shaped as a sharply cut pie wedge, fried to crispness on top and bottom, and were topped with chopped tomato. It was almost disappointing to find the usual soft home-fry texture within. I was hoping for dry crunchiness throughout, like potato pancakes. The hollandaise, topped with chives, was very lemony, but there wasn't much of it.