Having introduced sushi to Washington, D.C., diners 24 years ago, the menu at Sushi-Ko has since evolved to include nontraditional Japanese dishes that reflect the Matsuhisa style. The regular menu is balanced between sushi and cooked items. In addition, a daily list of inventive small dishes might include miso-glazed sea bass, steamed monkfish liver or raw trout Napoleon with peanuts and cilantro. Sushi-Ko is making its own imprint on contemporary Japanese cuisine by bending the tradition of pairing sake or beer with sushi. At Sushi-Ko, the favored accompaniment is Burgundy, of which the wine list includes 250 bottles.
Wine touches all the senses, much like Japanese food.
You might not believe it, but we sell a lot of wine. For New Yorkers and San Franciscans, Japanese food, including sushi, has reached a high level of acceptance. But elsewhere, chefs see modern Japanese as a new culinary challenge. From a restaurateur's perspective, the customer base for Italian, Mexican and Chinese concepts is all but tapped out. Sushi is too exotic, too scary, too raw.