A citrus butter with curry oil adds delicate flavor notes, and some bok choy provides texture. Even something as simple and sensible as sauteed chicken breast, rolled around Gulf shrimp and spinach with couscous and red-pepper sauce, manages to be memorable. Heading the list of desserts is the sensational summer pudding, a firm, cylindrical piece of dense bread pudding soaked in fresh berry juices. The striking visual appeal of this purplish pudding, decorated with white ribbons of creme anglaise and fresh berries, is secondary to its fine flavor. More than a dozen wines are available by the glass, including one sparkler.
Service is uneven.
Lunch service is very efficient, at times a bit rushed, but nimbly accommodates those Loop workers who have but an hour to dine. Just past the dining room is a spacious outdoor terrace, equipped with its own bar, that overlooks the Chicago River. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune. Vettel is the Chicago Tribune restaurant critic.