In fact, the cuisine at the Paggi House tends to be lightly salted in general, which is fine when it comes to the well-seasoned centerpiece foods. Although it's a small quibble, plain-tasting potatoes do detract from the overall effect of a dish. Desserts, predictably, are not fussy, but rather comforting, sweets. They are the kind of foods that end a meal on a long, low, resonant note, leaving the diner peacefully sated. Flan, apple pie, pecan pie, and chocolate terrine will appeal to almost any craving.
Service is unobtrusive, yet efficient and friendly.
When I gently mentioned that the halibut was a little more cooked than I like it, the manager insisted on replacing it. The kitchen and staff consistently maintain an even pacing for all the courses, which arrive promptly a few minutes after the previous one is finished. There are no fashionable waits, no dazzling decorative flourishes. Secure in its maturity, the Paggi House is one of those restaurants that hovers above the maelstrom of faddishness. And despite a few flaws, this unique, historic restaurant remains one of the most precious gems in Austin's dining scene.