Brain tanned leather is the best for clothing since it is washable and very soft but commercially tanned leather can be used if washed by hand in a mild soap and allowed to air dry. There are many patterns available from trading posts and other craft suppliers for traditional buckskin clothing but if you wish to work without a pattern and design your own, here are some tips. For fancy dress outfits, such as dance regalia, buckskin is usually left as light in color as possible. Everyday wear buckskin is usually darker due to the dying or smoking of the hide. This is accomplished by rolling the hides into a cone shape and suspending them over a smudge fire of green wood.
Smoking helps make the hide waterproof as well.
For a slightly green-gray tinge, use hemlock boughs to create the smoke. Be sure to rinse the hide well after it is completely dried and cool. To make a buckskin shirt or dress, measure across the back of the shoulders and mark this measurement across the neck edge of the skin at the first point the width can be achieved, this is your starting point. You will need to measure each area of the body and mark it as you progress downwards, adding a skin if necessary as you go. If you cannot get your back piece from one skin you will have to divide the measurement in half and use two but always starting from the neck area and working downward and across.