It's a pity given the value here. The hot, dry summer of 1998 has pumped new life into Canada's gew rztraminers, giving rise to a serious change in varietal direction. We liked most of what we tasted and these ten in particular. They would challenge any New World gewurz portfolio. We may even have Alsace looking over its shoulder.
Styles are diverse, running from the fresh unwooded to barrel fermented.
The Canadian climate is conducive to many other white varietals whose problem is not quality but rather a lack of recognition. The most promising look to be viognier, coming on strong since 1995, and auxerrois, which is showing strength east and west. It's an eclectic category for bargain hunters and one-off wines. This earlier-ripening variety that grows in Bordeaux and Loire Valley is often touted as Canada's best bet for serious red, and viticulturally it makes sense. Unfortunately, stricter regimes both in the vineyard and the winery will be needed if this grape is going to be anything more than a lean, herbaceous red that depends on new oak barrels to fill in the missing parts.