Take a train, bus or car from the airport to Kowloon or Hong Kong Island, and you'll quickly cross to Lantau, then follow its old northeast coastline before a suspension bridge plunges you into the city. There isn't much to see of Lantau along this route bar a characterless looking new town, and hillsides with grass and shrubs. Though beside the highway are signs you would hardly expect in one of the world's great metropolises, warning drivers to watch out for feral cattle. Lantau abounds with temples, one bustling, others tranquil. There are winding coastal paths and tough mountain trails.
Waterfalls tumble through secluded ravines.
The pace of life seems slow and easy in villages where simple offerings are made to tree and rock spirits. On the east coast, there's a custom built yuppie suburb. I managed to avoid the mud wrestling. I knew from an account in a history book that it was small, so wasn't disappointed to find an imperfect circle of stones that looked of a size I might just manage to lift. Equally mysterious is a rock carving at nearby Shek Pik that likewise probably had some spiritual significance.