There is no wrong way to devour a Korean barbecue spread, and there is no way to hold back the sensory overload. Suwon, a newcomer to Milpitas, gears itself for family affairs. Multiple grills at each granite-tiled table accommodate parties with up to 10 hungry mouths. The flamingo-pink cafeteria, trimmed in pine lattices and potted plants, seats roughly 60 around three buffet islands. The place is small but not cramped.
Service is good, and most important of all, ventilation is excellent.
Armed with empty plates, we circled the buffet islands like sharks surveying the bounty. It's a conservative selection, considering there are more than 200 types in the Korean repertoire. We passed on the cold soba noodles because they sat uncomfortably close to the raw squid, but we did ladle out some steamed rice and bowls of seaweed soup. Having soup ready is a good idea, due to the likelihood of finding oneself with a chile-singed tongue. Suwon shreds its lettuce and piles the greens on a plate, making the meal more family-style.