Time-warp makes seconds telescope into minutes, especially in the recalling of it. There's no such thing as a bad go-out. Therefore, I'm rarely disappointed, no matter how nasty the crowd or puny the waves. Paddling a surfboard is good exercise if the surf is flat. The sun feels good and melts away muscle tension.
Salt spray stings the eyes and spices the lips.
Water droplets dazzle like diamonds. After a good session, I feel relaxed and mellow. The muscles feel like butter, the skin taunt and toned. The salt water cure always works. Surfing heals the soul.