August Moon's food is fun, but the kitchen is not a playground of reckless spontaneity. The fusion flame has also tempered at Okno, the Chicago spot that last year sent palates cruising with such dishes as five-spice seafood ravioli in Thai red chile broth and potato latkes with spiced Chinese apple sauce. Chef Josh Cohen's new menu offers globe-trotting opportunities but fewer points of interest on one plate. Previous dishes lost focus and competed with Okno's cutting-edge atmosphere. Cohen retained only the latkes and a lamb chimichanga appetizer from Okno's premier menu.
Some chefs still shun the term, calling it too superficial for their style.
The road to fusion is littered with misguided attempts. Indeed, Tang began cooking fusion-style at a time when only scientists and musicians knew the term. He believes that food thoughtlessly thrown together in the name of fusion not only doesn't taste good, but confuses customers. Chefs agree that simplicity is key. Beyond such details, methods for creating fusion dishes vary.