Your mind makes contracts that your body can't meet Bye, Nigel. I had a resonable surf at south Beach about head high and sucking out pretty viciously on Saturday. Swap you two fives for a ten. Eight thirty p.m., the longboards have headed for home. The horizon grows higher.
Skegs dig into the face.
The world ahead explodes into sudden white. Gravity has it's say. What a magical dance is this water whispering so fast beneath me and screaming chasing behind me. We need some waves quick before things get out of hand around here.