But we were not here to tell fishing stories on the way home. This buffet was served on a palm-fringed patio that doubled as the Outpost's entrance and social hangout. A gravel path leads to the rooms, all of which overlook a cactus garden and lounging area under two giant thatched umbrellas. Daytime temperatures soared above 100 during our visit, and for several days we endured unseasonable humidity. The heat typically eases up in late October.
Winter can bring very cold water and strong winds.
Our only relief from the stupefying heat was to head out to the islands that, until plate tectonics created the Sea of Cortez millions of years ago, were attached to the mainland. And what islands they are. Loreto is a front-row seat in a huge topographic amphitheater, with the jagged Sierra de la Giganta rising behind the town and the dry, brown islands sitting offshore like apparitions. Isla Coronados, Isla Carmen, Isla Danzantes, Isla Monserrate and Isla Catalina make up the chain, which stretches over 50 miles. During our five days of diving we went to four of the islands, emerging from the water each time with smiles and stories of rare fish.