Even more intriguing is the medley of cavatelli pasta and firm fava beans flecked with tangy strips of Parma ham. Carsberg presents foie gras two ways. Walls, ceiling and even overhead ventilation ducts are painted a single, ocherous yellow. Floors are dark Belltown concrete. Lampreia is not the sort of place that exudes warmth or encourages festivity.
Service is coolly professional, and the shrinelike atmosphere can be off-putting.
That kind of ambience almost invites nit-picking, and there are nits to pick. Understatement may be carried too far with the soups, resulting in overly attenuated broths. The wine list includes a sizable selection of European imports to go with its California and Northwest offerings and reflects thoughtful selection. Lampreia, a pioneer in Belltown when it opened seven years ago, also was one of the first restaurants around to offer a cheese course, and remains one of the few that do. More should, judging by Lampreia's redolent and rewarding assortment of creations.