Z owner Nicholas Zotos has family ties to Little Gus, and he worked at that much-loved Lower Greenville Avenue fixture from the time he was 10 until its close in 1991. Consequently, Z has the recipe for Little Gus's famous potato balls, a certain draw. We found a spurt of melted cheese at their center. The grape leaves were stuffed ultra-plump with beef and rice, then glossed with a lemony avgolemono sauce. Breakfasts are served anytime.
Service is counter-style, but tea and water refills are brought to the table.
And though you fetch them yourself, utensils are stainless steel, not plastic. The affable Mr. Zotos, who has waited tables at Sevy's, Gershwin's and the Landmark, usually works the counter. He also did most of Z's decor himself, too, staining tables black to go with the pristine white, blue and black decor. Decorations include photos of such Greek treasures as the Parthenon and a Greek flag. Z Cafe is drawing an interesting mix of customers, from neighborhood residents and blue-collar workers to SMU staff.