Who cares about yesterday, well probably the bloke sending 12 foot of spray straight up to the heavens.
Today is almost as joyful.
The sou'east swell has dropped slightly to the 1m - 1.5m range. Still solid but lacking the full consistency of yesterday. The crew is all too keen again this morning but not as many of the drop-ins going down. A few fellas trying for the deep late take off but finding the sand and rocks rather than the pocks. Earlier was good for the southerly winds but they have since changed to the sou'east to 10 knots.