In kicking off this year's special tasting of new wines from Tuscany, Wine Spectator senior editor James Suckling gave a heady preview of great changes and great things to come in Italy's most famous wine region. But as this tasting proved, the winemakers and their wines are more than up to the challenge, though they varied widely in their carrying of the revolutionary torch. Others are using Italy's great grape, Sangiovese, but with new vinification styles aimed at both breaking with and celebrating Tuscany's winemaking tradition. Still others are blending both techniques.
Tuscan winemakers have a host of resources at their disposal for making wines today.
Fontodi owner Giovanni Manetti explained that Syrah has long been one of his favorite grapes, and he has always wanted to bring it to his own vineyards. Nevertheless, he said, Syrah has a great ability to reflect the character of its soil, as shown in its marked black pepper notes and smooth tannins. As a result, the wine has a fruity, forward style with soft tannins that allow for both aging and for drinking now. Suckling concurred, noting that though the wine is somewhat closed and needs more time in the bottle, it is well-structured. Riecine, one of the smallest vineyards at only 20 total acres, came next.