The edge may be turned up inside the crown and whip-stitched to the frame. This gives a fold finish. The drape should be adjusted after the hat is complete so that the lines are becoming to the type of individual. They are all cut by patterns where seam placement and mounting directions are given. Fitted or circular crowns are crowns with round or oval tops and a side crown which is cut from a segment of a large circle edge.
Sectional tams are larger but are treated much the same as plain sectional crowns.
The shapes are different in outline because the extra flare is fitted into the same headsize as any other crown. See Figure 33 . Saddle tams are shaped with a long fitted strip running from side to side and with circular-shaped sections at front and back. See Figure 35 . Directions for assembling are always given in the patterns.