Most California Sangiovese tastes different from anything in Tuscany, but it has similar structure and that's what counts most with food. So let's try to simplify. Brunello di Montalcino, Sangiovese-based super Tuscans such as Flaccianello, Fontalloro, Ceparello and Coltassala. Most California Sangiovese. Some California Sangiovese.
Smaller wines are easy to match with food but have little character to add to the meal.
Each course tries to use Old World and New World examples of wines made from the same grape variety. Feel free to choose any two of them if you don't want to serve three wines at once. Volpaia Coltassala Tuscany 1990 teems with plum and berry character in a supple, elegant wine. And a wonderfully mature early example of a super Tuscan red, Monte Vertine Il Sodaccio Tuscany 1983, has developed into a rich, velvety wine with truffle and iris notes around the earthy berry flavors. The risotto gets a Tuscan twist by using grated Pecorino Toscano, a mild sheep's milk cheese, instead of Parmigiano-Reggiano.