The smell is the constant. You walk into Souvlaki on First Avenue and immediately inhale the sharp scent of sauteed onions and thyme and spiced beef. It is the same pungent odor that engulfed you in the old shop off Illinois Avenue and that filled the air around the Alaskaland cabin where Souvlaki first opened shop in 1975. In the quarter century since Nancy and Jack Williams introduced Fairbanks to the funny-sounding world of Greek food, not much else has changed at Souvlaki. Daily specials still rotate through the same five selections.
Service remains indifferent.
It is still the only place in town where you can get spinach pie, moussaka or falafel for lunch. The digs have changed, however, and for the better. South-facing windows brighten the spacious and airy dining room considerably. A piano, some green trim and a clutch of old-time photos lend a comfortable ambiance. Small rooms branch off from the main eating area.