The simplest recipe is simply a paste of red chili peppers and salt that is covered in olive oil and stored. Harisa is sold in tubes by both Tunisian and French firms. The Tunisian one is better, but neither can compare to your own freshly made from this recipe. I first became intrigued with making harisa from a preparation made by Mouldi Hadiji, my Arabic teacher of 20 years ago. I concocted this version, based on a Berber-style one I had in Djerba, from a recipe description given to me by a merchant in the market in Tunis who unfortunately provided measurements that could last me a century, namely calling for fifty pounds of chili.
Some cooks also use mint, onions, or olive oil in their harisa.
I modified the recipe after much consultation with an illustrious group of opinionated people including Chef Moncef Meddeb, Mohammed Kouki, the doyen of Tunisian food experts, and cookbook authors Paula Wolfert , Nancy Harmon Jenkins, and Deborah Madison. Be very careful when handling hot chili peppers, making sure that you do not put your fingers near your eyes, nose, or mouth or you will live to regret it. Wash your hands well with soap and water after handling chili peppers. After you make you first harisa, with all the modern conveniences, I hope you can appreciate what exacting women's work this was, making it in the traditional mortar. Soak the peppers in tepid water to cover until softened, about 45 minutes to 1 hour .