Big-league restaurants, like a planned new Ruby Foo's, are taking the plunge. But the Foley's people seem to think it's still 1989, and its shortcomings stick out as glaringly as the odd remaining peep show. The cookie-cutter hotel decor makes you want to fly home immediately. With dull wood paneling and a singularly ugly ceiling clock, it looks dorkier than an airport steak joint. The only bread they serve is dreary onion loaf.
Seafood dishes are as chancy as the three-card monte games that once clogged the sidewalks.
Tell it to Marriott-owned Renaissance. Let them liberate Foley's and lease it to New York pros. What a great millennium gift to the city that would be. The content of this feature is updated weekly on Wednesdays.