Roasting intensifies the flavor and brings out the sweetness. It is subtler than smoking tomatoes, which adds an earthy, pungent flavor and is done in the same kind of smoker used for meats or fish. Roasted tomato pur e often finds its way into vinaigrettes and pizza sauces, while confit of tomato may complement an entree. At Z e in Manhattan, risotto pairs roasted Roma tomatoes and lobster. After the tomatoes are halved, the skin is brushed with oil and slow-roasted, skin side up.
Smoked tomatoes can be a foundation for soups and sauces, or pur ed and drizzled over plain meats.
At Stokes Adobe in Monterey, Calif., a vegetable Napoleon of cr pes and house-made ricotta is served with smoked tomato sauce. Tomatoes lend their flavor to sorbet and granit surprisingly well. Ren Bajeux, executive chef at the Windsor Court Hotel in New Orleans, serves tomato granit with roasted Japanese eggplant with black mint emulsion. Every family has its heirlooms, and the tomato family is no exception. Doug Brown, chef of Nana Grill at the Wyndham Anatole in Dallas, says tomatoes are taking center stage on menus, from appetizers to desserts.