The term given to a popular headdress for women. The base was a simple linen or lawn cap on which was attached a structure made of still linen or lawn and lace wired to form the shape of a half-closed fan. This tower structure could stand as much as 8 inches above a woman's head. Two long streamers or lappets hung down the back. It is said that it came about when the Duchesse de Fontanges, having had her hat blow off at a royal hunting party, simply tied her hair up in place with one of her garters, arranging a bow with the ends in front.
Women continue to wear a close-fitting bodice and full, softly domed skirts.
The skirts were slightly longer than floor length in the front and had a small train in the back. The bodice once again comes to a point in the front waistline. Sleeves varied from short and full to long and fitted The waistline is once again at the natural waist. At the end of the century the silhouette changes in favor of the mantua. This type of gown grows out of a t-shape garment.