This is where the neighborhood known as Baixa begins, a grid-like area of formally laid out avenues which Pombal designed to be built over the earthquake s ruins. The Rua Augusta, a lively pedestrian byway of boutiques, open air cafes, and ubiquitous street performers starts at the far end of the Rossio and concludes at a grand baroque arch that ushers you into the vast and stately Paca de Comercio whose bright yellow neo-classical buildings with graceful arcades face the Tagus River. For four hundred years until leveled by the earthquake, the royal palace stood here. Looking up at the city from the perspective of the river as gateway, it is easy to see why the royals selected this site. Lisbon is an easy city to negotiate.
Taxis are inexpensive and seem to always be there whenever needed.
Charming trolleys wend their way through hilly cobblestone streets. We spent one morning at the re-constructed twelfth century St. George Castle, strolling the ramparts, enjoying the panoramic views, and admiring preening peacocks intent on spreading their gaudy plumage. That afternoon we wandered around Belem, the region at the mouth of the Tagus from which caravels once set sail. The Jeronimos Monastery, thought to be the finest expression of Manueline architecture, the highly ornamental gothic style which combines elements of Christianity with ropes, shells and other aquatic symbols is here. From the car park across the way, it looked like a gigantic wedding cake.