Rapids appear, and the quiet waters of the Kootenay suddenly take on a challenging tone. On either side of the quickening canoe are submerged boulders looking like hippos. The canoe races through sparkling waters which burst into foam and spray. The voyageurs, wet but warm, are paddling hard but as the rapids worsen must exert themselves with greater vigour. As hearts pound, breath quickens and the excitement of the white water mounts, the outfitter calls for more.
Urgency banishes the pain from shoulders and backs unused to such work.
The paddles flash. The guides draw and pry. As if by magic the canoe escapes the frothing turbulence and emerges again into a world of incredible peace and quiet. The paddlers rest. The reward, aside from the outfitter's praise, is the peace, the unbelievable quiet of the Kootenay River as it floats through some of the most beautiful mountain scenery to be seen in Canada.