The leader of our trip is retiree Allan Richards, who is experienced in guiding many holidays. The Alpujarra was first settled by Berbers from North Africa in 711 AD and it was the last Moslem stronghold in Spain. Arab influence permeates the local festivals, crafts, place names, food and architecture. Traditional ways of life still linger here. Goat bells chime across the valley.
Stores stock only the locally produced goat and sheep cheeses.
Cow cheese is unobtainable. Our base for the week is the two-star Meson Poqueira in Capileira, owned and operated by identical twins, Paco and Pepe. My room is small but adequate, with a bathtub, heater and million-dollar view. We dine in the hotel on the region's hearty fare. Capileira is the highest of a trio of hamlets spilling down the terraced sides of the deep Poqueira Gorge.