I'm just back from Sicily, in love with it once again, this time thanks to the city of Sciacca on the island province's southern coast, an easy drive from the towns of Agrigento or Selinunte. Sciacca's port is not gentrified in the least. Anchovy -salters, fish wholesalers, and shipyards line the main drag. Most fishing boats head out before dawn and return in the late afternoon, when the parking lot becomes a market for the day's catch.
Tentacles abound, as all sizes of octopus, cuttlefish, and squid are offered.
Venders enthusiastically hawk their wares. Visit the market just before sunset for a superb photograph opportunity. Then look for the sign of the restaurant Porto San Paolo, walk up its steep staircase, and dine overlooking the harbor. The menu is large, and diners must order with some discretion, but the fish is superfresh and simple dishes are well prepared. Pass on the risotto and the pasta with salmon and opt for langoustines, shrimp with sea urchins, mixed seafood, or a classic spaghetti with clams.