Regardless of the number of deep-fat fryers behind the kitchen door, these restaurants serve good victuals, some with a healthy dish of Arkansas culture on the side. Since then it's become an Arkansas institution. On a whim, owner Larry Griffin put a map and a box of pins by the register for customers to mark their homes. In two months, the map looked like a porcupine with every state and 15 foreign countries staked. Stepping through the swinging screen doors takes you into a store that has changed little over the years, except now two rows of tables covered with green-checkered plastic cloths parallel the original long counter and display cases.
Quilts fill a meat case and model train parts line one of the shelves.
While waiting for your meal, you can buy locally produced preserves and salad oils, Liquid Plumber, PVC pipe cleaner or a bag of sugar. The store's signature menu item is 6 inches in diameter with a meat patty that weighs 1 pound cooked. Order it with a mountain of homemade onion rings or fried green tomatoes on the side, then split the Mississippi Mud Pie with everyone at your table. The menu changes daily with catfish, chicken and meatloaf plus the standard burgers and sandwiches. If you don't worry, treat yourself to one of the 10 kinds of homemade pies for dessert.