Inside a kombi, D.J. and 2 others are pulling on wetsuits to join in the fun. He cranks off the bottom and for a second is out of sight behind a wave already peeling in front of it. Then he emerges climbing back up the face and resetting the body language for a carve off the top. This has to be the next best thing to a ski- lift for getting out at a rocky point break. Longish paddle in a big V across and then out.
Someone usually tries to cut it a bit fine tho and gets a smacking on the way out.
This time it's Bear. D.J. always looks totally at ease when he drops in, no matter how big or mean it looks. He admits on times he feels like a jibbering idiot, but no-one's ever seen any evidence out there. He takes one now. Just a couple of strokes, a no-time transition between lying and standing.