The rich farmland and ready water supply around the lake allowed for the growth of the ancient civilization of Tiwanaku, an empire that built more roads than the mighty Inca. The region is still farmed and populated today by Quechua Indians, who speak the language of the Inca, and Aymara, the language of the Tiwanaku Indians, who fought the Inca and maintain their language today. In the lake sits the island known locally as Isla Taquile. Prior to 1976, the only way to get there was by reed sailboats that traveled 18 hours one way. These days, powered boats to Taquile takes four hours.
Tourism is huge now compared to the old days.
But there is still an innocence about this island, which has no hotels or roads. On a recent return visit to the island there last year, I sleep in the same mud hut I slept in 20 years ago. No running water. Water is from the roof or fetched from the lake. I sleep on a bed of reeds and sheep wool blankets.