From here, we take Route 2, turning at a signed dirt-road exit 20 miles out of town. We trek south, back toward the Sierra Juarez and into the western canyon perimeters of Parque Nacional Constitucion de 1857. The rocky road to Ca n Guadalupe is some 35 miles, first along the shore of the Salada, then along sandy flats. The driving's more difficult than the canyon hiking, where inclines are merely moderate, with sandy footpaths most of the way. These palms are, oddly, the only major species endemic to the Californias, and they're magnificent, forming dark, cool canopies of mosque-like interiors.
Most roads have little or no shoulder.
Driving at night is not recommended. I swim in the cool water, watching a lizard make it down the cliff for a drink. It notices me, loses its grip, and hangs by one hand off the wall, finally making a pounce for a nearby ledge and escaping to the drink. It's best to stake out all three independently run campgrounds before making a choice. Many spots have access to private mineral pools, shade, or camp-grills.