Wine racks, heavy with more than 50 entries, wall the length of the dining room, effectively incurring a thirst in those who gaze upon them. An equal division of Italian and Californian wines graces the menu, including some well-priced notables. We sampled three of the four red wines by the glass. Brief bimonthly menus regularly feature a handful of modest variations on old recipes, as well as a host of traditionals such as risotto, gnocchi and veal dishes. The kitchen does little in elaborate presentations, nouvelle cuisine or rare delicacies, but what it does dish out are good classics, nothing unfamiliar, in hospitable, gargantuan servings.
Rice is, after all, to northern Italy what pasta is to southern Italy.
A fan of small mussles encircle a trio of luscious scallops in a deep stew of tomato basil studded with baby shrimp. Sweetly aromatic, the thick stock peppers the seafood with poignant notes of fresh basil. A protracted dessert menu compounded by uncreative presentation always makes a diner feel rushed. Steering clear of the former, we shared a wedge of the latter served too plain on a platter. The staff is friendly, the service warm and fast, the menu always changing, the food generous, the flavors straightforward, the essence hearty.