No one has ever been fortunate enough to have everything they ever wanted. That falling short of expectation, perfection is what makes life so wonderfully twisted. In order to realize what blessings we have and be grateful for all that is given we need to experience some hardship. So the hardship for experienced surfers is less money than one would like. Well, that is the sacrifice that should be acknowledge that is keeping surfing what it is.
Surfers are at one with themselves.
Simple, humble, in tune with nature and at awe. There is simplicity to the sport and to the lifestyle. That doesn't seem to jibe with the essence of the sport. So, things are not perfect but they are what they are and maybe that is how things were always meant to be. As much as I would love to hoard what's left of the already crowded line-ups, I can't help but think that surfing should be an olympic event.