In what has now become a usual style, he creates healthful dishes by flavoring and thickening them with vegetable purees and broths rather than fats and dairy ingredients. Tables are also available in alcoves removed from the big top, which alcoves' beams and paneling suggest perhaps an antique European inn. The meal begins with very fresh crusty bread in a choice of varieties, served by the bread waiter. There are preselected wines to accompany the degustations in addition to an extensive and impressive list if you prefer to select your own. The a la carte menu has a wealth of salads, soups, appetizers, and entrees of fish, meat, and vegetable.
Offerings are by and large dependent on the season.
Plus, of course, if you prefer to avoid meat, it's the obvious choice. It is served chilled in the form of a cucumber-wrapped timbale, with pleasingly al dente couscous layered on top. The cylinder is surrounded by succulent cherry and teardrop tomato halves and little blobs of sweet and rich mango sauce. This last sounds funky, but its vague tartness offsets the somewhat bland uniformity of the rest of the dish. Hearts of celery are braised with roasted shallots and olives, and served atop a mild tomato nage with broccoli, baby asparagus and fresh cherry tomatoes.