This means Galicia is responsible for two of the world's most durable dictators, one tyrant of the left, one of the right. There are better Galician products at a bakery tucked behind a house in a small town called San Cosme. The couple say they can't afford to retire, but the impression is of artists who just can't stop creating. Most travelers come to Galicia for a more directly religious experience. At Santiago de Compostela stands a cathedral believed to be built above the remains of St. Iago, or St. James, one of the 12 Apostles.
Pilgrims walk or ride ancient paths and modern roads from all parts of Europe.
By the end of this month, about 50,000 will have made the journey in 2000, the minimum walk to get a certificate of pilgrimage being 100 km. They stay in hostels along the route. Fit-looking Swedish couple Hans and Kia Ahlstedt flew from Stockholm to Bilbao with their bicycles, took a bus to the Rioja region, then rode 700 km to Santiago in 11 days. In the square in front of the cathedral, Charlie, a dog dressed as a pilgrim, poses for tourists. They've been at it for six years.