The place is especially appealing in warm weather, when sidewalk seating provides an al fresco option including a side order of downtown scene-watching. Indoors, the room gets rustic charm from shiny wooden tables, and lightness from yellow-painted wainscoting beneath big mirrors. Just outside large-paned storefront windows, the nonstop traffic of Hudson Street almost becomes part of the decor, too. Mappamondo, the popular bargain pasta spot, used to live here. Yearling Valdino West isn't as cost-conscious as its predecessor but neither will it drain your bank account.
Portions are substantial, and the food can be good.
For instance, an appetizer portion of Parmesan cheese, accompanied by balsamic vinegar and olive oil for dipping, was so moist that chunks could be pierced with a fork without a single crumb breaking off. Though arugula ravioli tempted, I couldn't resist the call of the daily special sea-bass stuffed ravioli. It didn't disappoint. The pasta had just enough bite, and the light tomato sauce provided a nice contrast to the subtly filled squares. Alas, that night's risotto, filled with large briny shrimp and saffron rice, was much too salty.