The early monochrome collections allowed Kawakubo to focus on the form and shape of her garments, aspects that have remained extremely important for her. While often thought of as an iconoclast, Kawakubo has exerted an undeniable influence on younger generations of avant-garde designers. It is almost easier to describe the work of Comme des Garcons in terms associated with architecture than with the traditional vocabulary of fashion. Kawakubo's clothes are architectonic or sculptural, concentrating on structure rather than surface. Certain ideas are tested, abstracted, and transformed to create something new and astonishing with each collection.
Ragged seams become ruffles.
Yards and yards of ruffles. Ruffles appear in unexpected places poking out of seams. Holes in sweaters become gashes in the bodices of evening dresses. Jackets are dismantled and turned inside-out or put together in new ways. The inside of a cardigan becomes the outside with the bumpy texture of knitted roses close to the body.