The swell holds. The stoke is flowin'. We surf at dawn. We surf at dusk. Life is good.
Time is irrelevent.
This, this is a good surf trip. Dave, it's your turn brah. Taking a shower, you're reminded of the swell by the shaking of the pipes every 10 s or so. Sitting by the truck, you can't help but notice the whitewater geysers shooting twenty feet in the air, over the steep sand berm of the beach. Also SJDC must be one of the most ideal surf cities in the world.