Enlarged bar and lounge. Upstairs dining room for parties and overflow. Renovated beer garden for outdoor dining. Best of all, the main dining room has at last come into its own, its focus, as it should be, on the panoramic river view framed by a wall of windows. Fussy draperies have been done away with.
Tables are pristine with starchy white cloths and gleaming silver and glass.
The sky, the hour, the weather introduce subtle changes in the light and the look. E ven before our appetizers arrive, we feel sure the Gelston House is in good hands. The food, when we visited, was as American as the lemon meringue pie we had for dessert, and as country chic as the live yellow sunflower on our table. Pastas and grains included penne with eggplant, red onion, basil and feta, and risotto with Maine lobster and New Zealand mussels. Marinated white anchovies, to be exact.