So is veal goulash, fall-apart tender in a sauce shaded by paprika. And potatoes have a life of their own. Roasted with onions or shredded into potato pancakes, they alone are worth the trip. The rest of the menu has its ups and downs. Pizzas sport marvelously thin crusts, and while combos run from fontina with garlic to anything-goes conglomerations like shrimp with tofu, it's the Austrian pie, reminiscent of a lush gratin, with potatoes, onions, bacon, and cheese that'll make you want to come back.
Pastas take a global approach.
Simple creations like penne with roasted vegetables and spaghetti with sausage are most successful. Novelties such as tenderloin and penne in spicy Thai sauce are less so. Thai-influenced dishes, in fact, are the most flawed. Stieger once had a Thai partner, which may explain things. And while chicken satay is beautifully seared, the fat filets are more stolidly Germanic than delicately Thai.