These come out only at night. On my way back to the surface, I spot cowrie shells among some of the sponges. Sponges might make their presence felt in Korcula but echinoderms abound in an astonishing variety of forms. I could well believe that every type of Mediterranean starfish exists here, and I saw hundreds of sea cucumbers. Between dives, I enjoy the local food - grilled meat and smoked ham, salted pilchards, sheep's cheese, paprika salami, Slavonian spicy sausages and so on.
Specialities are Dalmatian brodet, a kind of fish broth, and pasticada, beef braised in herbs.
Croatia also has an ancient wine-growing tradition, while the local sljivovic can always be relied on to raise the spirits. Time passes pleasantly both above and below Korcula's waters. For the photographer there are many treats and much, I imagine, still to discover. Her hull was steel-framed, with mahogany panels. Prow, deck and superstructure were partially lined with steel plate.