If you eat out a lot, you could be forgiven for wondering whether the city's chefs were in the vest pocket of the French tourist board. No, not really. Coffee comes in bowls, not cups. Sugar comes in little paper tubes.
Payment is in cash.
You never saw Kate Moss at the Magic Pan. The two cooks here ladle unsweetened buckwheat batter onto a round iron griddle and fold the resulting pancake into a rectangular pocket. There are no sauces and no toppings. The most elaborate dishes here, interestingly, are the salads, which seem to benefit from all that effort the cooks save by not having to whip up ingredient-heavy dinners. Each salad comes off like a little country picnic.