More than 3,000 different wines were uncorked for tastings, and dozens of special dinners were offered, along with workshops on everything from couscous to chocolate. Piedmontese beef is special. The animals, which have an extra layer of muscle and surprisingly delicate bones, also produce more meat per pound than traditional breeds. But Piedmontese are in danger of dying out because of competition from cheaper-mass produced beef and because thousands of farmers switched to dairy cattle for a quicker profit. Fifteen years ago, there were more than 600,000 head of Piedmontese cattle, almost all on small, family farms.
Today there are half that.
About 40 miles from the food fair, oblivious to the hubbub, Virgilio lounges in his stall, putting on extra weight for Italy's livestock show. He was the national champion last year. The huge silvery animal with the thick mantle of extra flesh that is the breed's trademark is the pride of the Delsoglio family, which has been raising Piedmontese for generations. With help from the Ark, they hope to continue. And my kids are, too.