What's left is Neelum Valley , famous for fishing and trekking, Jhelum Valley , site of hill stations and more good walks, and forested highlands to the south. There are flights daily from Islamabad into Muzaffarabad and Rawalakot. Crossings into Muzaffarabad by land are restricted to Bararkot in Manshera, or Kohala in Murree. You can enter Rawalakot by bus or wagon from Rawalpindi. Other more direct routes are off limits to foreigners as they run close to the government research centre in the Punjab.
Most visits begin in Peshawar , the rough and ready provincial capital.
The highlight here is the Old City - a brawl of vendors selling everything from tribal jewellery to leather pistol holsters. The fabled Khyber Pass , sprinkled with tiny army forts, is nearby. North of Peshawar is the district of Swat , reckoned to have the loveliest scenery in Pakistan's northern valleys, and Chitral , a relatively unspoilt area of lush valleys, hot springs and great walks. Vertigo sufferers should steer clear of Indus Koshitan to the west, a land of colossal peaks and bottomless canyons with more good walks. You can get domestic flights from Peshawar to any number of Pakistani destinations, as well as direct flights to Qatar, Tashkent, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, and Jeddah.