13-27 Jackson Ave. It's a family kind of place. Vincenzo's wife of forty years, Ida, is in the kitchen every day, and his son Anthony works the floor. Anthony speaks wise and staccato and never forgets a name or a regular's favorite Chianti. It says it's only thirteen per cent alcohol, but that's just to get it through customs.
Portions are huge, and no one notices.
The cold seafood platter is a clean and crisp spread of lightly marinated mussels, calamari, scungilli, and shrimp. And the mozzarella is so fresh it's barely set. There's a punchy penne puttanesca and really good ricotta gnocchi, but the glowing-orange fettuccine Bolognese seems to be the most popular dish in the joint. The pork and veal can be tough and bland, but a frequent special involves giant, succulent blocks of roast pig with skin. Anthony will decide if you need a side.