The fan is worked around the end as shown. The bar tack is made by taking two stitches at buttonhole end, across both rows, and then working over these threads with blanket stitch without catching the fabric. Then put the needle through to wrong side. Shank button have a solid top and a shank or stem underneath for sewing on. There are forty lines to the inch.
Many patterns indicate the recommended button size by drawings on the pattern tissue.
The position of buttons in a closure is marked after the garment is completed. Through the buttonhole, place a pin at exact spot where the button is to be sewn. In closures, they usually fall on a faced and interfaced part of the garment, but even a decorative button should not be sewn to a single thickness of fabric. This is done in one of the three ways below. Before sewing on the button, press the circle to wrong side of button position.