The day was sedate and peaceful, yet my senses were barraged. Nothing can prepare a Westerner for India. Further down the river we passed a white domed house breaking through the forest, a haven where the Beatles once learned the ways of their guru Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, in an age that brought world attention to the ancient village. Plans called for a trek in the Garwhal Himalaya. Porters often carry backpacks, leaving hikers to walk at their own pace and mix with the friendly hill people along the way.
Routes vary from low angled and easy to steep and difficult.
Garwhal's views rivals Switzerland, but you won't find paved paths and a network of cable cars and trains leading to alpine views. You will see far fewer hikers, if any, and the great white Himalaya looming over tiny farm hamlets whose hardworking inhabitants are delighted to see you. Hiking in India is not as well known as it is in Nepal. Books and maps on the region are not known to be detailed or wholly accurate. Our trek began in Uttarkashi, where a wide gushing river leads the way to an upward route through the jungle.