Samarkand has long been a place of legends. Together with its Uzbek sister Bukhara, it was a key stop for the caravans that plied the network of routes stretching from the markets of Istanbul to the silk weavers of China. Traders, diplomats, pilgrims and missionaries thronged the cities' bazaars as East met West in a blossoming of commerce and learning. But with the discovery of sea routes to Asia, the long-distance caravan died off and Central Asia became an isolated backwater. Today a few monuments still loom over Samarkand, overshadowing modern Soviet interlopers.
Most hotels are concrete, Soviet-style affairs.
Six days away by camel, or six hours by bus, is Bukhara, a more relaxed and intimate experience. Aged, bearded men sit around low tables next to outdoor stone pools, playing chess and dominoes while drinking tea under the mulberry trees. A highlight of any visit is getting lost in the maze of caravansaries, alleys and domed markets in the old city. Be prepared for spontaneous invitations to a wedding or to share a cup of tea. The city's architectural wonders include the giant ramparts of the fortress known as the Ark, the banded patterns of the dizzying 47-m high Kalan minaret and the delicate brickwork of the Ismail Samani Mausoleum.