Now that some of the basics of surfing have become clear, we reach the most essential, and exciting part of the sport, catching and riding waves. In order to do this, we must first understand how a wave works. Ocean waves, like all other waves, are defined as a traveling disturbances that carries energy from place to place. The energy that is being carried by ocean waves originates in wind or the gravitational forces caused by the sun and the moon. Waves consist of a symmetrical series of crests, which are the high points, and troughs, which are the low points.
Ocean waves consist of many water molecules traveling in clockwise circular orbits.
The diameter of the orbit is equal to the height of the wave. When the waves are far off shore in deep water, the water molecules are able to travel undisturbed in their circular orbits. As they approach the shore, the water becomes shallow and the bottom of the orbit comes in contact with the ocean floor. The circular orbit becomes elliptical and eventually the weight of the water causes the wave to crash. At this point the particles motion shifts from rotational to translational.