Then you can go in many directions. You could have just a burger, accompanied by excellent fries. Or you could eat lightly with an entree salad of mesclun, asparagus, smoked salmon, smoked trout and barely marinated scallop seviche. Limp linguine can be ignored as you savor its marvelous shrimp and julienned vegetables. A huge soft-shell crab is fried so lightly that its mushy texture is hardly noticeable.
Roast chicken is usually a good test of a restaurant.
Here it's crisp-skinned and bursting with flavor. Potato-crusted cod is just right, but its New England clam chowder sauce belongs on chicken a la king. A sure hand is evident in the desserts, though. One of the best is rhubarb soup with mango mousse, but the praline semifreddo is also good. Ardeo is one of those restaurants that reverberate with promise.