Delicacy and attention to detail are apparent as well in gyoza, a traditional Japanese dish. These light, moist meat dumplings burst with the flavors of finely minced meat and green vegetables. Entrees are also models of thoughtful menu composition and workmanship. Take the breaded veal cutlet. The platter arrives with a crisp-coated, tender cutlet surrounded by five accompaniments.
Rice is served as a side dish and the day's fresh soup comes with the entrees.
The only disappointment was the creamy conch shell au gratin. Described as containing both conch and clams, it seemed to have neither. That dish aside, the menu shows Chef Akio Yamaguchi to be an ambitious and bright professional eager to advance his vision of fusion. He worked his way up in the Ginza Hotel in Tokyo, and came to this country at age 22 to work at Sushi Kushi Toyo, in Lake Forest. He paid his dues there, preparing traditional sushi for 10 years.