Well, Kitcho hardly needs a high-profile presence. Connoisseurs of Japanese cuisine have been placing its 48 seats at a premium for more than 10 years. And while we could name three newer, more luxe alternatives for such fare, this little winner thrives from a loyal, long-established patronage. Physically, the aging grayish walls and spare, black furnishings of the dining room exemplify both classic Asian minimalism and economic practicality. Black and gray decor wears extremely well.
Red napery adds splashes of anti-ennui relief.
In this quiet, relaxed environment, sometimes two or three servers will be involved in the drop-off and removal of the various courses and drinks. In a first for us, though, an obvious rookie recently rushed out the main course while soup was unfinished and salad yet untouched. It did cause quite a jumble on the table. When finally it arrived, it was very good sushi, indeed. Interesting term, sushi.