This restaurant's been feeding the hungry at Jantzen Beach for almost 50 years and shows no signs of letting up, despite the semingly inexorable creep of the freeway. With the latest lane widening, I-5 runs by a short car length from the dining room. Diners along the west wall gaze out the window at a concrete retaining wall just inches away. But no traffic roar interferes with the chirp of conversation or clatter of dishes from the busy kitchen. The food arrives amazingly fast.
Omelettes are puffy mounds, a bit stiff but packed with goodies.
Original Western is streaked with melted cheddar, piled high with crumbled bacon, and strongly flavored with lots of diced onions. They're especially good with the country style gravy, thick and sausage-flecked, and a couple of buttermilk biscuits. Kids gravitate to the Island Fling coconut pancakes, a stack topped with toasted coconut, powdered sugar, and coconut syrup. It's not as bad as it sounds. And there aren't many places left that regularly serve a hangtown fry, that gallimaufry of scrambled eggs, bacon, spinach, oysters, mushrooms, peppers, and onions.