Once a fishing village, it still is that, though relatively new tourist-aimed businesses and a massive power plant have stripped away much of its charm. Across the bay, reachable by car, is Morro Rock. But up close, you can hear it. It's a rookery for thousands of sea birds, and the echoing sound on a late afternoon is unforgettable. Back on the road, we parallel the water but rarely see it.
More golden hills are in the way.
The nifty part is something called Moonstone Beach. You get there via a short cutoff from California Hwy. Watch for the signs. The rocks, piles of bleached driftwood and a natural garden-trail along the dunes combine to make it a most special place. Sunset-watching is big here.