He also mentions that a few dishes are always on the menu. The French onion soup served in the traditional two-eared bowl with melted cheese and a hearty veal broth bubbling over the sides. The Caesar, meant to be eaten with your hands, is made with an entire heart of romaine, stacked tall, rather overdressed and topped with a cheesy crouton. It actually tastes much better than it sounds. I'd order all of these again, and have.
Specials are often more elaborate, and sometimes overambitious.
On one night there's a fascinating pur e of asparagus gently perfumed with vanilla bean and garnished with slender asparagus tips. Another night, the special is a velvety avocado and melon puree that grows on me with every bite, served in a '50s-looking glass bowl on a triangular plate. Snowy, sweet seared scallops are served with diced potatoes and clams in an herb-flecked broth. Main courses run to the comforting and hearty. The most popular is the half-chicken smeared with pesto and roasted until the pesto turns a rich dark brown.