The mountain pastures and tea plantations give way to a breathtaking mountain pass. The pass opens on to a plain where the road takes you straight through the Mikumi National Park. Next landmark is the layers of blue mountains that fade into the distance above the town of Morogoro. As you approach Dar es Salaam the road becomes narrower and more potholed, and the city itself looks more and more post-apocalyptic with each passing year. The city is no more dangerous than Johannesburg, but as a tourist you're an easy target, so take care.
Tourism is still on a small, low-impact scale.
A typical trip to the island is a heady mixture of days on palm-fringed beaches, and exploring the alleys of the Stone Town, graced with a sense of history such as you'll find nowhere else in Africa. Camping gear will give you a far wider choice of places to stay. For the best exchange rates take United States dollars which you can change almost anywhere. In Zimbabwe, rands also fetch a good price. Travellers' cheques are a useful precaution.