Josie, however, isn't just another neighborhood spot. Nothing on the outside gives away that this is a big-city sophisticate. Walk through the doors, and it could as easily be San Francisco or New York as Pico Boulevard. The maitre d's podium is just beyond the brown velvet curtain. Le Balch and husband and partner Frank Delzio, who runs the front of the house, have transformed what was a cafe into an elegant, if slightly staid, American restaurant.
Walls are a soft olive gray, with raw silk sconces.
Banquettes are covered in a subdued artichoke print. Le Balch moves from American to Italian to French, even Moroccan, with the aplomb of a lounge pianist. You name it, she knows the tunes. When you sit down, she'll send out a little something for the table, a sliver of wild mushroom and gruyere quiche. One of the best dishes is Mediterranean cuttlefish grilled on skewers and served with tiny green lentils de Puy permeated with the heat and spice of Merguez sausage.