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Nothing is ever quite good enough.
Their personals ads are long enough to need chapter headings. A bagel order can require a lawyer. All the more surprising, then, that certain restaurants, agreeable but hardly special, manage to catch fire. Le Zinc is one of them. Last year, David and Karen Waltuck, the owners of Chanterelle, took it over, put the kitchen in the hands of Chanterelle's sous-chef, Michael Sullivan, and did what seems to me the absolute minimum that was needed to open the doors again in November.