Although the oysters were large, unappealingly warm, and fishy tasting, everything else on the plate was perfect. Osetra caviar comes on a small blini with a dab of sour cream. Small foie gras are seared to perfection. Thai lobster packets have a hot chili buzz and are given a mint garnish. The yellows of quail eggs are removed, whipped and truffled, and returned to the hardened whites.
Smoked salmon is wrapped around a creamy stuffing and tied with a chive blade.
And a smoked sturgeon, dill and cucumber salad fills tiny potato vol au vents. The plate could have used a serving device of some sort. The soup is infused with ginseng, chamomile, ginger, St. John's Wort, mint and lime leaf - which, if overdone, could have produced a gnarly brew. But the healthful herbs are just a hint, and the soup is innovative, interesting and even brilliant. Grilled pencil asparagus salad.