The dining room doesn't skimp on creature comforts. Decor is simple and neat. A beautiful glass cabinet, stocked with graceful bottles of grappa, is the most eye-catching element in the room. The compact wine list is mostly Italian and reasonably priced. Servers don't know a great deal about the wines, but Conti, who assembled the list, is never far away.
Otherwise service is fine, nattily attired in white shirts and black vests, and properly attentive.
N. Clybourn Ave. Vettel is the Chicago Tribune restaurant critic. Afghani African Amer.