Liver with onions.
Menus stand in for playbills.
And whether you enjoy a production depends on hundreds of sometimes arbitrary details. I was all set to be won over after my first visit to Petits Plats. No subsequent meal would prove as engaging, but that dinner hinted at real potential. Looking back on it later, I was reminded why restaurants are best judged over time rather than from a single encounter. It was lightly creamy and tasted of a spring garden, its pale green set off with some plump, golden mussels for contrast.