From Hilo to the central saddle, the road rises from sea level to 6,600 feet, then drops away to 2,500 feet on the west end. Sharp curves through long series of hills and gullies create a roller coaster ride that can sicken those weak of stomach. Oncoming vehicles remain hidden until the last minute. Other drivers must be trusted to yield rights of way across dozens of one-lane bridges. There are few places where a driver can pull off safely.
Narrow shoulders fall away from the cracked and potholed pavement.
The road's edges are so rough that drivers speed down the middle, straddling the yellow line. Headlights are required day and night to give drivers a fair chance to see each other. Thick fog and clouds of dust often obscure vision. Fast-moving rainstorms slick the road surface and pond in the gullies. But with all this danger comes a varied beauty that stuns the senses.