Pagan's remoteness is part of its appeal. Frequent hour-long flights depart Rangoon, but seem too fast a path to such an ancient landmark. Better to start farther north in Mandalay and drift down the Irrawaddy River, the nation's 1,500-km lifeline, which snakes around the ancient city. Other boats, including luxury liners, ply the length of the river. Once there, many linger.
Pagan is timeless, with little development to intrude on views.
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