Hard-hitting and smooth at the same moment, it is, in the words of my connoisseur friend, different and simply wonderful. What is unexpected at such a local-felt trattoria is the level of ingredients along with stunning presentations. Fettuccine carbonara is studded with not pancetta, but much, much thin-cut prosciutto. And, though I've come to mind a forest of minced parsley scattered on plates, here chef Allen rainbow dusts flecks of red, green and yellow peppers along with the greenery. Beware that the marinara swamps the otherwise worthy eggplant parmigiana, as well as a few others.
More triumphs abound, though.
Chicken Italia, too, makes new out of standard, a sauteed chicken breast crowned with more onions and green peppers in a rich veloute sauce. And though prime rib is peerless, amazingly tender and not the usual mass, its cloying jus just about kaputs it. What impresses, in the end, at Colombo, is that the McGregors never seem to quit trying. And beyond the regular pizza with add-ons, choose among 15 specialty pizzas, and calzone and stromboli. For now, Colombo Italia is open six days a week for lunch and seven for dinner.