Typical bagel sandwiches don't offer much early morning thrill, but omelets are satisfying. The Essex Street scramble charms salami lovers with chunks of the grilled meat, potato, onion, bell pepper and Cheddar. But what's listed as sides of potato pie are simply seasoned, roasted new potatoes, and if we want cream cheese on our bagel, it's extra. No self-respecting deli would ignore a smoked salmon platter, and Kashman's nails it. Silky Nova fish is wonderful, displayed with sliced tomato, capers, red onion lemon, bagel and cream cheese on a bed of lettuce.
Salads are pleasing, too, including the Singapore model.
Grilled chicken strips take top marquee billing over mixed greens, red cabbage, cilantro, bean sprouts, shaved carrots and crispy noodles splashed with a refreshingly light sesame ginger vinaigrette. Tarragon chicken salad with poached pear isn't a typical deli nosh, but it works for me, topping field greens with a fan of soft, sweet fruit and a scoop of marinated chicken breast chunks tossed with chewy currants, tarragon, celery and scallions in herb mayonnaise. A dusting of shaved almonds adds some crunch, but I yearn for a slab of crusty bread alongside to help cut the too-sugary raspberry vinaigrette. Meeting your daily vegetable requirement isn't tough with Kashman's signature chopped salad. This isn't your everyday dish, prettily pairing diced baby string beans, tomato, peas, corn, jicama, carrots, red and yellow bell pepper, red onion and a nicely restrained balsamic vinaigrette under a sprinkle of dry Parmesan.