My body registers height and pitch. I look over the nose of my board and down into the bowl. I m being lifted and driven forward by and immense force. One extra stoke. Remember one extra stroke could give you the speed that makes the difference between getting pitched and making it.
Time slows and fades away.
I clasp my rails and in one fluid motion swing my legs forward. I sense the pressure under my feet. My vision tunnels as I begin to drop. The speed is immense and unexpected. The water somehow seems to harden beneath my board.