It's easiest to approach Cockpit Country via Montego Bay to the north, where buses and minibuses head to towns like Clark's Town and Windsor on the northern fringe of the wilderness area. This is one of the most consistent surf spots on the island, although swimmers should beware of the bay's dangerous undertow. Canoes are drawn up on the beach with fishing nets drying beside them and you may even be able to hire a fisherman to take you out in his canoe. Long Bay is perfect for budget travelers seeking to ease into a life of leisure in a fishing village that's untouched by mass tourism. There's a rustic camping ground and cabin accommodation is available.
Many locals also rent out rooms in their houses.
There's a lively beachside bar and restaurant, and a few jerk and seafood options. Buses run to and from Port Antonio, the northeast's major town. The village is set behind a deep blue bay backed by dunes and the main street is smothered in wind-blown sand. Each morning local women gather on the darkened beach to haggle over the catch delivered by fishermen. They're an excellent location for scuba diving, snorkeling and nude bathing.