Eurochow radiates a white-hot blaze like luminescent lava. Interior lighting makes the dinner tables glow, fiber optics light the walls, and the glass dining-room floor allows a view of the wine vault below. Such is the latest vision of Michael Chow, artist, architect, ingenious restaurateur and legendary scene maker. But don t assume this means fusion food. There are slivered raw baby artichokes with shavings of fine Parmesan, Chinese dumplings and noodles, lightly cooked shrimp in a translucent veil of sauce with crackly glazed walnuts, good steaks and juicy veal chops, all perfectly cooked.
Prices are extremely democratic.
Young parents toting folded strollers dig into big bowls of pastas and carve up roasted garlic chickens to share. Chef David Shaw, who worked for Emeril Lagasse in New Orleans, puts his own twist on flawlessly roasted meats and desserts such as pear bread pudding drizzled with a buttery bourbon sauce. Westwood Village regulars keep hoping the latest round of gentrification won t ravage their favorite dives like Falafel King, Stan s Doughnuts or the relatively new Saigon Street. The lone Westside Vietnamese street-food depot outside an Asian enclave, Saigon Street is an accurate rendition of the neighborhood spots where the Vietnamese working class slurps breakfasts of noodle soup or grabs a quick snack a true restaurant of the people. Each sandwich is typically garnished with lightly pickled vegetables, a few cilantro leaves and slender threads of hot chile.