I ask two friends to make the reservation in their name. An unnecessary precaution, as things turn out. When we arrive, we discover that O'Shea is on vacation in Ireland and chef Joseph Morrison is doing the cooking. T he second time around, I am again struck by the restaurant's idiosyncratic chic. Well, that's the subliminal message I got.
T here are four in our party.
Each of us orders a different white wine by the glass. The hostess takes our order. A waiter brings four glasses of white wine and unerringly delivers the correct wine to each of us. The glasses are identical, the wines close in color. We beg the waiter to reveal the secret.