Either of these carnivore's delights can be found at other restaurants, but here they're priced more like a pasta special. Chameleon has its share of pasta as well. Vermicelli comes with a spicy peanut sauce, a particularly nice version sprinkled with chopped nuts. Smoked salmon in a light cream sauce topped with bright red salmon roe is paired with fettucine. Santa Fe chicken brings southwestern flavors to penne by combining grilled breast meat with tomato, green pepper and cilantro.
Nightly specials can be intriguing.
On one visit, cold rice noodles, a staple of Southeast Asian cooking, were tossed with fresh green papaya, chopped cabbage and cooked, chilled and diced long beans. Desserts change frequently, but you can look at the evening's selections in the case by the door. A torte-like tiramisu was an interesting variation on the unavoidable, and a strawberry tart had a nice hazelnut crust. You can also skip the sweets and finish with a glass of port. Whether or not Chameleon signals a change in the commercial makeup of the traditionally populist Hollywood neighborhood remains to be seen.