Even at a quiet weekday lunch, there's no mistaking this room for anything but Teutonic. The air smells sweetly of pork and sauerkraut, and the walls are crammed with enough wooden crests, antique steins and idyllic landscapes to outfit a small castle. It borders on a Disney-esque stereotype, except that it's just what you might find abroad. The cook is determined that you won't leave hungry. Most of the appetizers are the size of light entrees, while the main courses appear built for two.
Raw salmon is chopped into small dice and moistened with just enough mayonnaise to hold it together.
In another weighty example, meaty herring fillets are teamed with sliced white onion, apple and paprika-dusted sour cream and arranged on a bed of greens with vinegary slices of cucumber. It's a salad with spunk. A tangy salad of sliced beets and ribbons of sauerkraut makes a humbler statement. It's all nicely filling, and the occasionally poky service allows us time to work up an appetite for more. I wasn't disappointed.