It's the season to think soup. Ms. Bianchi learned to make these Northern Tuscan zuppe at the stoves of native cooks, who continue the old traditions. As in so many country cuisines, soup was the mainstay of the diet, always with local ingredients, beans, beef, fish, grains, all manner of vegetables, herbs and greens. Fall vegetables make particularly wonderful hearty soups. Ironically these are now a luxury of the rich.
Sidebars offer help on technique.
Heat the broth to boiling. Add the peas and rice and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the greens, butter and oil. Cook uncovered for 10-12 minutes, until the rice is tender. Add salt and pepper.