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With the patience of a visionary, Bragi Arnason has been talking up the power of hydrogen power for more than 20 years. Now the energy elite is finally paying attention. As the first country to make a real effort to become free of fossil fuels, Iceland is now poised to play pasha to the global explorers of renewable energy. Already, automakers and oil giants are beating a path to the home of a ruddy-cheeked grandfather in a lab coat. It will only be another 30 or so, he says, before hydrogen fuel cells will be powering all of Iceland's cars, buses, and fishing fleets.