I fall asleep hungry. The windows smeared with salt water stains rattle in the wind and the bed's sponge mattress has seen better days. We wake up with the dawn. If you like your creature comforts, this is not the place for you. It's impossible to get a decent meal.
Most meals consist of a few bits of locally caught fish and a pile of salad stuff from tins.
And the locals benefit directly from tourism by being the sole providers of food, beds and taxis. Just three registered companies run the diving. We go down to the island's busiest beach, Praia do Cachorro, where local kids run in the sand and jump in the waves. This is not a good place to feel thirsty - no beach huts serving cocktails here. But the view is wonderful.