Tables are decently spaced and chairs comfortable. There are no DeNiro-wannabes. In fact, most folks tonight look like they're from less cutting-edge parts of town. There dwells in our imaginations, but rarely in our own neighborhood, the ideal bistro - steeped in the earthiness of game and blood, welcoming and moderately priced. I've found in New York.
Many dishes read the same on the menu as they did two years ago.
But under chef Eric Heinrich, at the helm since last spring, much has changed, especially the presentation. Kathy hits the jackpot with her terrine Provencale. Enfolded in pastry crust, this traditional dish resembles an Italian hero sandwich, with alternating layers of roasted peppers, eggplant and goat cheese. It is served at just above room temperature, bringing out the best in the cheese without burning it. No, balsamic vinegar and garlic spices,'' our friendly waiter explains.