The big difference is the shell. After a final smear of mashed garlic, the hot sandwich is plated with a side of excellent yellow rice and pigeon peas. A remodeled smoke-free area stands to the side of the entrance. To complete the tropical atmosphere, the restaurant relies on ceiling fans, not air conditioning, a drawback on steamy days. This jewel in the crown of Puerto Rican cuisine starts with chopped, deep-fried green plantains, mashed with garlic and fried pork rinds and then formed into a delicious chewy sphere.
Most entrees are just as impressive.
Service can be harried when the place is busy, and some servers may not speak terrific English. But pointing to items on the translated menu usually does the trick. Borinquen Restaurant 1720 N. California Ave. Originally published Aug. 23, 2000. Write your own review of Borinquen Restaurant.