The mixture is seasoned with pepper but not salt. The feta cheese provides the salt. Detorakis stresses the importance of using good, imported feta. Most domestic feta cheeses are made with cow's milk and don't have the requisite tangy flavor. Filling and rolling the phyllo bundles is the easy part.
Many cooks are afraid to work with phyllo dough, but fresh dough makes the process simple.
Detorakis peels a sheet of dough from the stack she has cut in half crosswise. Not even half of the dough is covered with butter. At the shop, she uses half margarine and half butter, in a nod to her customers' health concerns. At home, she uses only butter. She recommends against using all margarine because the flavor would be compromised.