Sliced ham offered a salty counterpoint, and the young marinara sauce tied it all together. Few dishes irk me more than a sweet, overcooked, overpureed marinara sauce. Wild Iris' was chunky and cooked just long enough to release the tomatoes' tanginess. Taken together, it presented a toothsome, satisfying meal. But the dish was mercilessly overcooked, rendering it rather chewy and dry.
Most entrees come with a choice of soup or salad and rice or potato.
The chicken breast, for example, looked stark sitting on the platter accompanied by an aloof potato and a diffident bit of garnish. Desserts are another puzzle. The restaurant itself is a cozy little place, split between two rooms in the Golden Nugget Hotel. Service is friendly, fast and knowledgable. Decor in the smoking section is dark, with ponderous wooden chairs at tables clustered around a large stone fireplace.