I hate copying. The extremely attentive service gives the impression of a house full of servants-each dish seems to arrive in the hands of a different person. Ask the kitchen for pad thai, and Sampanthavivat's interpretation, with its perfectly springy noodles, will swear you off your neighborhood joint's version for good. The prawns loom big enough to inspire a Peter Benchley novel. When the steamed striped bass hits the table, it is firm and fresh, and, unlike the traditional fried Thai style, bears not a hint of oil or chili paste.
People have the misconception that Thai food has to be killer hot in order to taste the flavor.
The closing citrusy lemongrass ice cream cleans the palate and proves to be a lighter, more satisfying choice than the heavier Thai custards. For Sampanthavivat, this feast is the culmination of a lifetime of study and striving, requiring not just culinary skills learned in the kitchen but also management skills learned in political-science classes. Recently Sampanthavivat has been featured on the covers of two large-circulation magazines in Thailand, and when he traveled there recently he was already a celebrity. While the desire to express himself artistically may have led him to leave his native country in the first place, it is that same expression that is now drawing him back. To be creative comes easily.