The bottom's incline, or slope, also plays a major role in the way waves break, from soft, easy rollers to surging, unsurfable monsters. A plunging wave occurs when the swell comes out of deep water and hits a shallow sandbar or reef. Ultimately, these are the waves that surfers look for. But since they break top to bottom and tend to be faster and more challenging, beginners should stay away from them. Mushy or slow-rolling waves are more desirable for beginners.
Mushy waves occur when a swell approaches a more gradual bottom contour.
Because mushy waves are softer and more forgiving, they allow for the fastest learning curve possible. Like Eskimos with snow, surfers have dozens of words to describe waves. For starters, there are a few you should know about. First, closeouts are waves that break all at once and, since they offer no tapering curl or open wave face, are not sought after by surfers. Second, reforms are waves that initially break over a shoal, back off into unbroken swell as they pass through deep water and then break again closer to shore.