Helmut Newton's slick images for Vogue have made allusions to kinky activity for years. Andy Warhol's cult films such as ''Trash'' put pornographic imagery in a stylish underground context in the 1970s, while Thierry Mugler's use of the porn star Jeff Stryker on the runway several years ago brought down the house in Paris. The difference now is that porn inspirations are no longer just an insider's joke. Richardson found working with porn professionals very stimulating. ''It was a classic fashion shoot. They were there to model shoes, but right away they seemed more in touch with their bodies.
Porn stars work in a moving environment.
The story, which features middle-aged couples hanging around the pool, has no relation to porn, but mimics naturist magazines. The results look like family vacation snapshots with something missing. Blink and you could almost imagine that the bikinis and swim trunks would suddenly return to their usual places. As fashion has taken inspiration from porn, skin magazines are also sprucing up their shoots with a bit of fashion. Honcho, the U.S. men's publication, began working with fashion and art photographers for its spreads when Doug McClemont became editor in chief in 1995.