If the statesman were around today, he might be peddling the 250 varieties of herbs and vegetables he grew in his garden directly to the people at farmers' markets. Restoring the traditional link between the agrarian and urban communities, markets have become a means of survival for the small family farmer, with more than 350 certified farmers' markets in California, up from a handful in the late 1970s. Xiong drives four hours each way daily to market from his farm near Fresno.
Outdoor markets are movable feasts.
Each market is as distinct as the community in which it resides. At the crossroads of agribusiness, under a green corrugated canopy, the year-round Davis market enjoys a rural setting in the town square. One taste of his roasted almond butter is enough to make anyone forget about the grocery outlets. Another virtue of the markets is having the chance to taste before you buy. A few tables down from the Portellos' almonds, Peggy and Michael Henwood of Henwood Estates encourage sampling of their artisan olive oils, made on their ranch near Marysville.