At the upmarket Le Cirque 2000, also in New York, things are more flamboyant, through just as busy and there is a delightful hum of conversation throughout three beautiful rooms. If sir arrives without a jacket and tie, he is discreetly ushered into an Armani. Special occasion tables are treated to all manner of flourishes and have their desserts delivered under toffee cages topped with candles. Your table is in demand and there is more money to be made in turning it over than in cajoling you to stay and have dessert. Thomas Keller's refined food treads a fine line.
Memorable service is an elusive and personal thing.
It may be about recognition and making one feel special, going the extra distance or the result of the personality and wit of the server. Often it is memorable simply for its invisibility. Back in Australia, it often seems that as long as the waiter is a nice bloke, his tip is secure. I have sat at restaurant tables with captains of industry known for their ruthlessness. It may be that Australians are still uncomfortable about the notion of being served by someone.