The place, something of a minor institution, stirs up images of watering holes in the rougher corners of El Paso, Texas. Inside, a bar leans against one wall and a hangman's noose dangles opportunistically in the middle of the diner. The walls are filled with memorabilia from the Lone Star State's heyday and a collection of auto license plates. Farther back one finds a patio and a small sun room, both available as dining space. Dishes are modestly spiced and portions are generous.
Patrons order at the bar and the bartender brings food to their table.
Less expensive items prove to be the superior choices. These oinkers are topped with sour cream, guacamole, and Jack and cheddar cheeses and then broiled for a crusty presentation. It's a cool hangout, an offbeat dive that's a far holler from the streamlined corporate franchises. El Paso Cafe's character may beckon louder than its food, but therein lies the bargain.