Buses and trains run between the capital and Liwonde. Mt Mulanje a fine hiking and trekking area. You can reach most of the peaks without resorting to technical climbing. If you're thinking of visiting, be prepared for sudden downward shifts in temperature, rain and poor visibility at any time of year. Other areas are covered in dense evergreen forests, and there are pockets of damp grassy bog.
Many people see the park from a car.
Although you're not allowed to enter the park on foot, once you're inside you can stroll as much as you like - though you'll have to be accompanied by a park ranger for hikes of more than a few kilometers. It's also possible to ride a horse across the grasslands, allowing you to get closer to the game than in a car or on foot. The islands of Chizumulu and Likoma are both fairly low-key places to unwind and take in the spare beauty of the surroundings. Likoma is the larger of the two. It's not exactly an island paradise, but it does have some excellent beaches and snorkeling, with baobab trees scattered about.