From the first spies sent by Moses into the land of Canaan until today, tourists have craned their necks, scribbled notes and even engaged in a little creative dissembling to experience the land that promises nothing less than an adventure of biblical proportions. Matthew Simon, senior rabbi at B'nai Israel Congregation in Rockville, has been to Israel more than 100 times since 1956, when he lived in Jerusalem as a one-year student at Hebrew University. I arrived 10 days after war with Egypt broke out, and all classes were canceled. Americans were supposed to go home, but I never received my letter from the consulate, so I was totally free. National boundaries are porous.
Nothing stands forever.
And Israel has the monuments to prove it. Visitors to Israel during its 50th-anniversary year will find official activities scheduled around the country's military victories, with only a sprinkling of cultural fairs, performances and parades. Even Israelis, almost immune to scandal, have been surprised by the degree to which those responsible for creating a memorable anniversary have failed to create something of interest to them, much less to tourists. If you were hoping for an especially meaningful trip to Israel this year, there's no cause for disappointment. The Old City, Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial, the Dead Sea, the Galilee region and Bethlehem haven't gone anywhere.