And when the 6 p.m. seating is over and the families with small children leave, the second seating arrives - with more, if older, children. There's something for everyone. Sure, the service is perfunctory, but it is fast. Yet, sadly, the food can be dismal. If you order something that is supposed to be simple, however, you'll probably get what you expect but far more of it.
Portions are huge.
I also can confidently recommend the white beans, which are nicely seasoned and served warm as an appetizer. Look for the day's roast meat, and certainly order it if it's pork. Maybe it will be cooked too long and have turned stringy, but it's homey meat, darkened and flavorful from its pan juices. Skip the seafood and concentrate on heavy, old fashioned red sauce and red meat. Wash them down with an inexpensive bottle of wine poured into tumblers, and enjoy this rustic place even if its charms are no longer culinary.