Understanding the nature of the ocean is what keeps you safe. The sky hangs gray and low, resting on the humps of Camel Rock. This stretch is one of the most breathtaking places on the California coast. Trinidad juts out to the right, curling protectively around the fishing fleet lodged in its harbor. A series of rocky beaches provide extra drama for the waves relentlessly pitching forward, exploding into whitewater.
People surf for many reasons.
Some dream of the money and fame of pro surfing. Or maybe, simply, they love surfing the way they love to breathe. Only the last reason explains why people surf in Northern California. But people in Humboldt, in our wetsuits, we all basically look like a bunch of seals out there. She stops at the water's edge to attach her leash.