I did, and rode the gentle, right-peeling wave until it settled down over the shallows. I dropped down on my board and paddled back out for more. Mach 7 Morey boogie board like an organism struggling to evolve and bought a used longboard. But instead of evolving, I've remained in limbo, never getting better but refusing to give up. I surf sporadically, and therein lies the problem.
Months can go by between sessions.
Usually it's because it takes me that long to work up my nerve to head out again. Surfing scares me. I fear the big wipeout. Injured NFL star Chris Naeole learns what it takes to come back. Get in shape.