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St. Petersburg's Hermitage Museum offers unprecedented access to one of the world's richest art collections. When the Soviet Union began imploding in 1991, travel agents around the world prepared for a rush of tourists to Russia. The demand was there, but thanks to decades of isolation during the Soviet era, the tourism infrastructure wasn't. McAlee's introduction to Russia was a four-hour debate with officials at Moscow's grim international airport over her visa, which had her first and last names reversed. She hadn't noticed because she doesn't read Russian, the only language used on Russian visas.