Preparing for the Last Supper In Milan, Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper was finally fully unveiled this summer after two decades of being obscured by scaffolding and other restoration equipment. The Renaissance masterpiece in the refectory of the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie began to deteriorate within six years of its completion because of Leonardo's experimental use of oil rather than the normal fresco technique of paint and water. Postrestoration, in a big, vacant, whitewashed room, you'll see faded pastels and not a crisp edge. The feet under the table look like negatives. Notice Judas with his 30 pieces of silver, looking pretty guilty.
Reservations are mandatory.
25 tourists are allowed in every 15 minutes. It's likely to be booked for weeks ahead. If you can't get reservations for the Borghese Gallery, check out the sculptures in the Gardens outside. In Rome, the Borghese Gallery features world-class Baroque sculpture, including Bernini's David and his exciting statue of Apollo chasing Daphne, as well as paintings by Caravaggio, Giorgioni, Titian and Rubens. If you want to book a reservation for a weekday, phone a week ahead.