It's a sad truth that the high quality of the cooking at El Teddy's tends to get overlooked by the riot of drinkers crushed into the bar area and overshadowed by the garish barrio kitsch of the dining rooms. But the upscale Mexican food here is as excellent as it is stylish and reliable. You will indeed find God in the details, hiding under an onion chunk in the sweet, quietly addictive salsa, or waving his paw from the rich, earthy mole. A huge selection of appealing tapas and garlic-drenched seafood dishes are the focus. Avoid weekends, when the noise from screaming groups of girls who've overdone the sangria is deafening.
Portions are well seasoned and mighty for the price.
All ages, ethnicities and economic groups mingle in a Mexican fiesta setting that can't disguise its cafeteria heritage. The ample portions of home cooking includes satisfying fresh corn tortilla tacos, enchilada combos and chicken in spicy green sauce. Owner-chef Steven Picker, formerly of Sarabeth's, has adorned the dining room with farmhouse and kitchen tools, and it's especially welcoming at breakfast. A horde of theater district glamourpusses discovered Hell's Kitchen on opening weekend and simply refused to leave. Sue Torres' exotic menu heats up the proceedings with intoxicating New Latin dishes.