Waves wash the black cliffs with white froth. Houses boldly creep up to the sea front like a dare. Vehicles are scarce. Dairy farmers are as likely to ride clip-clopping mules laden with milk churns as cars. The Azores, Europe's westernmost outpost, are largely undeveloped.
Most people live modestly from fishing or farming.
They are a deeply religious and conservative people, famed for their hospitality. It's a place where people leave the front door unlocked when they go out. Aware how lucky they are, the islanders don't want to draw crowds. We don't want mass tourism. This is a place to relax and enjoy the natural world.