April is autumn in South Africa - the rainy season is over, and the weather is pleasant. Like a street hustler, Jo'berg is friendly, threadbare, and menacing. But depressed gold prices, a drought, and sanctions have taken their toll. The wealthy white suburbs are tidy and peaceful, but the city itself is run-down and dangerous. The streets reek of garbage and urine.
Muggings are common after dark.
I didn't have much time to worry about Jo'berg's decline, however. After I checked into the hotel, I went over to the Independent Electoral Commission headquarters to get started. That's where I would work every day for the next 25 days, an average of 16 hours each, scattered around the clock in an irregular blur. I didn't go through jet lag, I just went to work. The commission, headquartered in a 10-story building five blocks from our hotel, was a caricature of a busy office building.