He took down mine and my partners' Jim Bridwell and Billy Westbay's birth dates, and figured out the day when our Zodiac signs lined up in a power configuration. That same year I climbed another big route on Middle Cathedral with Will. Climbers encounter virtually every technique somewhere in its 2000 feet, though the most exciting sections entail steep edging and smearing, plus a knack for finding the easiest line. Questionable belays have been bolstered with pins or bolts. A collection of 15 nuts ranging from wires to three inch provides adequate, if not bomber, protection.
Most parties complete the route in one long day.
Aspiring teams should be fluent with minimal 5.10 terrain, sling belays, and route finding. The leader should be, anyway. He is the author of Gorilla Monsoon and How to Rock Climb, and currently works in Santa Monica as a script writer and film producer.