Owner-chef Takashi Soda, formerly at Nakamoto, opened SushiSake in early '97. The restaurant has thrived as new customers join longtime fans in discovering Mr. Soda's superb sushi. Every sushi chef has his own style. A host of chefs behind the counter reflects his attitude. The sushi order sheet is broken into areas that make it easier to navigate.
Many customers take the easy route, ordering one of the large samplers.
If you're not in the mood to wade through the menu and order as you go, these samplers cover much of what is on the menu. The clam was a thin strip, both firm and a bit chewy, its fresh pliability enhanced by a taut wrapper of seaweed holding the clam together with the rice. He wrapped the soft, velvety fish around a wad of rice, giving the fatty tuna a liquid look. A blackboard behind the bar lists appetizers, sushi and sake specials. It doesn't hurt that the lighting is so genteel.