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We call it an odyssey rather than a museum because we try to give a sense of each region's culture and the impact that wine has on it. Wood expects 500,000 visitors a year at the complex, which is in a maze of 22 interconnecting railway-support arches made of brick in the late 1800s. The 45-foot ceilings create a cathedral effect. From a depiction of the remains of a Roman wine store, it winds through 20 rooms based on different wine-producing regions. In the Italian room, visitors sit on motor scooters and watch a video of the Piedmont vineyards flash by on their windshields.