On board, John Pitta, from Cold Spring Harbor, N.Y., tells me the Internet has proved indispensable for getting bargains. He scrolled for airfare and negotiated online with the Windsor Op ra hotel. They even threw in free breakfast. Lots of packages use soulless hotels in less desirable parts of town. We get a shock when we get off the Roblin's tiny elevator on the fourth floor.
Plastic sheeting covers the hall.
The smell of fresh paint permeates the air. We dodge workmen and stacked mattresses. Many European hotels do their freshening up in winter, so it's best to check before you book. By now it's after 3 p.m., and we're famished. We walk to Le Peny, a cafe fronting the Place de la Madeleine recommended in one of my favorite guidebooks, Cheap Eats in Paris .