The panzanella is that irresistible mix of good tomatoes with basil, garlic and cubes of toasted bread infused with olive oil. Calamari is shaved so thin you might not recognize it in a mix of tapenade, pine nuts, olives and pickled beets. Toscana salata has bits of mortadella, artichoke and olives tossed with silky orzo in a lemon aioli. These foods have big flavors, well suited to small portions and to slow nibbling. The hot mezze are less refined.
Most savory is the polenta with grilled mushrooms, caramelized onions, garlic and truffle oil.
Their chocolate is somewhat waxy, though not as disappointing as the big cookies, which taste as if they'd come from a mix. Giant brownies are achingly sweet and sometimes stale. This is a kitchen that accomplishes more with subtlety than with extravagance. The coffee is awfully good, too. What a sweet idea.