The westernmost citadel of the desert, Jaislamer has an ancient history linked with its development as a trading centre. Part of its 'Golden' fort continues to be inhabited, and its cobbled street lead through a journey of medieval enchantment. Jaislamer is celebrated for its exquiste stone-carving havelis or mansions of the merchants who held the reins of its destiny. Jhalawar A 19th century offshoot of Kota, its verdant landscape is unusual for a desert state. Jodhpur The 16th century capital of the Rathore Rajputs, Jodhpur's historyis evident in the hilltop eyrie, Mehrangarh, from where its destiny was written.
Narrow paths wind up the steep path, leading to the innards of the fort.
Once within, the architecture is lessformidable, with delicate windows and painted chambers. From its ramparts one has a view of the 20th century artdeco Bhawan Palace. Kota One of the perennial rivers in Rajasthan, the Chambal is flanked by verdure and fertile plains. Located on its banks, Kota is a modern, industrial city, but its antecedents are as romantic as any other Rajput kingdom. This is evident in its many palaces, and the largefort with its fabulous paintings know for their hunting scenes.