The route has been climbed in two days car to car but three or four days are more usual. The first objective is to get to the Helmet-Robson col. Cross the Robson River about 0.5 km from Berg Lake and grovel up talus slopes at the base of the Mist Glacier to the rock buttress between the Mist and Berg glaciers. Cross the Berg Glacier to the Helmet-Robson col. 4-6 hours from Berg Lake.
Most parties bivi here and start the face early the next morning.
Wrestle with the last stretch of the Emperor Ridge to the summit. Descent is usually via the Kain route, though some parties go down the Normal Route.