It is also known as Rosses Point, adjacent to a village by the same name. Some holes, like the short second, ascend from tee to green, providing a panorama at the end of the journey. Still other holes descend, like the commanding par-3 13th, a seaside gem that requires a precise approach to avoid an unscheduled trip to the beach. A heart-thumping climb is necessary to reach the green, but from there most of the course is visible again. Golfers are dots on the rugged canvas below.
Puffins gather on the lower fairways after a rain, searching for worms.
The refurbished clubhouse is modest, staffed by two cheerful golf professionals, a small office staff, a waitress, cook and bartender. Photographs, trophies and wooden plaques attest to the club's heritage. An inside window between the grill and a members-only bar allows the bartender to serve both. It is golf, not massage therapy, uniformed valets or an overbearing wine steward, that is the mission of County Sligo. He adds that he believes Irish links courses, especially those in the west, are among the most scenic in the world.