The name 'chikan' seems to have been derived from the Persian word, either 'Chikan', 'Chikin' or 'Chikeen'. Although it originated as a court craft, today it is a practiced tradition and an important commercial activity. This makes it very suitable for the seemingly hot climate of the northern plain region. It can be assumed that Chikankari, using sheer fabrics evolved as a logical answer to the problem of keeping cool and also providing adornment and beauty to one's person or in the surroundings. The light chikan saris are perfect for summer wear.
Men prefer to wear their chikan kurtas during summer evenings.
There is a popular legend that a courtesan in the Nawab of Avadh's harem was a master. He was so impressed by the work, that he started a workshop where this style of embroidery would be developed further. The Nawab were the setters of fashion. The other humbler nobles and Zamindars would imitate them in every way. Chikankari thus received great impetus during the Nawabi period.