The catch I really want though involves human skulls. Steering into the open waters of Roviana Lagoon, our guide points the boat toward Kumbonitu to request permission to visit Skull Island. Because Skull Island is ''tabu'' or sacred, entering without the chief's consent is unthinkable. Permission granted, we land on the tiny islet. The skull houses, or reliquaries, resemble tiny, triangular shaped stone caskets.
Open doors reveal the skulls of chiefs.
The most recent chief died in the 1920s, while the oldest ruled more than 300 years ago. The human bones contrast eerily with this palm-fringed beach paradise. Too soon it is time to leave. The plane lands at adjoining Nustope Island, and I board a small boat for the brief trip to Gizo. Along the way I treasure a brief stop at Kennedy Island, where the late president took refuge when his patrol boat, PT-109, was destroyed more than 50 years ago.