But the chef succeeds in making straightforward dishes sing, too. Grilled New York strip steak wears a roasted shallot and red wine sauce reduction. There are usually lamb, scallops, veal and various combinations of Thai stir-fries on hand and at least seven specials per night, so a diner can dip easily into East or West as mood dictates. Manasurangkul is largely self-taught. At the Bay Leaf, one tries to save room for dessert, because that is Manasurangkul's wife Sopa's domain.
Nothing is imported.
By the way, when I have a sore throat, the one thing I hunger for is the Bay Leaf's exquisite lemon grass soup. It's served only at lunch and its layers of flavor explosions make it worth a noontime visit even when you're well. Guide's free-lance restaurant reviewers are Sylvia Lawler and Susan Gottshall. The critics, who tell it like it is, attempt to remain anonymous during their restaurant visits. All meals are paid for by The Morning Call.