Or maybe I'm just an idiot. The castle itself is excellent. It's larger and better preserved than most castles I've seen. I spent an hour walking around inside, and I'm not sure whether I saw all the rooms. Not only is it big, but the layout is fairly compact and complex.
Many rooms have two or three exits, and there are at least four staircases.
When I was through wandering, I meandered out into the courtyard and ran into James, who worked there, doing maintenance to keep the place from turning into a pile of rubble. His boss and coworkers eventually came by and he had to join them and go back to work, but I hurriedly took this oddly slanted picture of him before he ran off. I stopped in the tiny shop before heading out and paid 17 to become a Friend of Historic Scotland. Then I rode home down the hill, past the surprised people, the railway platform, the shaggy cows, and the railway tunnel.