Kapali Carsi, the Covered Bazaar, is as historic as any other site. A conglomeration of about 4,200 retailers crammed together in shops and stalls, it's a working anachronism. Covered Bazaar reminded me of Baltimore's Lexington Market, except that instead of food, its retailers sell leather, rugs, gold jewelry, books, ceramics, copper, carved stone pipes, tie-dye dresses, women's underwear, linens and sunglasses.
Merchants stand in front of their shops, eyeing passers-by.
Desperately, they try to entice you, issuing occasionally audacious commands akin to pickup lines at a sleazy bar. I forgive you today. It is a game beyond a game, and when they wave you good-bye with those nice, sad Turkish and Kurdish faces, as if you were their last friend leaving, it is a form of politeness before they meet, as in the Old West, the next stagecoach, bringing gold and news. If you have the time, though, it's better to play along and absorb the culture. At Covered Bazaar, never accept the first price offered.