Its displays include as artifacts from ancient West African kingdoms, Ghanaian crafts and unique ceremonial objects such as elaborately carved royal stools and gilded umbrellas. Vast Black Star Square with its Triumphal Arch, built by Nkrumah to herald liberation of the rest of the continent, and the nearby Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, housing the Nkrumah Mausoleum - merit visits. I found more elbow-room at the crafts market, near the Centre for National Culture. The country's celebrated and brightly-patterned kente cloth is available by the metre. Men and women in national dress sell fearsome-looking masks and other wooden carvings from all over West Africa as well as intricate brassware and leatherwork.
Many stalls specialise in bootleg music cassettes.
Restaurants span a reasonable range of European and Asian cuisines. It serves Ghanaian fare in a garden setting while diners listen to live performances by some of the country's best bands. Even when I dined at the similarly African-style Kikiriki and Country Kitchen I stopped later at Afrikiko for the music. An hours' eastward drive along the coast is Teshi where several funeral directors welcome visitors. Orders are taken.