Cameras in hand, the authors tap local cooks and street vendors for classic methods and dishes, many of which have in common the regional flavour quartet of the book's title. A disciple of British sensation Marco Pierre White and French star Joel Robuchon, Ramsay made his mark at London's Aubergine before opening his eponymous restaurant in 1998. This superb, gorgeously illustrated volume, his third, is the food-porn event of the cookbook season. Cook with it, or just stare at the pictures. Based on the cuisine of one of the best restaurants in Niagara's wine country, the emphasis is on produce and meats that you're actually likely to come across in Canadian markets.
Preparations are sophisticated without being pretentious.
Modern twists enliven lots of heartwarming fare for getting through winter, such as ham and barley soup with parmesan crostini, and butternut squash bisque with maple-sage cream. It's a seductive mix of sweet and savoury recipes, both new and traditional. Silverton covers the waterfront from rustic pear crisp in a skillet and prosciutto pie to sophisticated crotin de chocolat. But the big salvation of this book is in the margins, where Buonassisi supplies recipes for all the quintessential pizzas, with such Italian folk classics as margherita and quattro stagioni. It's been too long since Canada's master of pure flavours wrote his first book 15 years ago.