In the later case, it is not unusual to see those people get some pretty bad frostbite. Guiding in the Himalaya I've led over twenty trips in the Himalaya, with all different types of climbers. My rule of thumb is that everyone brings something to the table. Himalayan climbing is not democratic, and everyone is different in what they can do and what they expect. I believe everyone can have a great Himalayan experience if they have realistic expectations and are flexible.
People get into trouble when they remain rigid in a dynamic environment.
You have to be open and honest. When I was a kid, growing up in the '60s and '70s, the only way you could get on a Himalayan expedition was to be a part of some elite national team, or play the political game and meet the right people to get yourself invited on a big trip. Nowadays, if you have the skills, the money, and the desire, you can give it a shot. There are a lot of companies offering mountaineering programs in the Himalaya. I encourage prospective climbers to shop around, and thoroughly understand the differences between the programs.