When you see the people, live with them, get together with them to celebrate, the music grows in meaning. Food that isn't bought on meager salaries is supplemented by kitchen gardens and hunting. There's no indoor plumbing. Water, both for drinking and washing, is hauled from the river almost a mile away. Banyas, the traditional bathhouses, take up to five hours to fire.
Outhouses are primitive wooden shacks set on flat ground, without so much as a hole dug in the dirt.
Ukir's free-ranging dogs survive largely on what people leave behind. The brightly painted windows of Old Believer villages caught cinema major Natalie Ross's eye. She snapped more than 800 slides on the trip. They have no trash. They reuse everything.