I'll never forget the superb mussels mariniere in an aromatic broth that was the essence of the Cote d'Azur, or the crackly pissaladiere beside which all other pizzas pale. I can still taste the juicy yellowfin tuna burger with lemon-mustard butter and a heap of golden french fries, and the heavenly nectarine tart that was gilded with caramel ice cream. Laurel's newest menu has some tantalizing creations that seem destined to join these unforgettables. Fragile squash blossoms are stuffed with creamy brandade and served with gazpacho vinaigrette. Seared foie gras is placed atop a tart of Mission figs and roasted onions.
Pork tenderloin is wrapped in pancetta and served with a French butter-bean ragout.
And as if chef Doug Organ doesn't do enough damage to our waistlines and sense of self-control with these savory triumphs, he also teases us with a warm strawberry and rhubarb crisp with ginger ice cream for dessert. Laurel's decor is as appealing as the food. It's bright and beautiful, with a lovely central table that could be in a Provencal farmhouse, and a lively, sophisticated bar. Laurel serves dinner nightly. When you're in the mood for a good, messy burger with all the fixings, this is the place to go.