The scapegoating of the miniskirt serves as a reminder that when fashion rules, actual rulers get nervous. The idea that the right uniform can convey a world view or allegiance has always inspired social snobs, awards show consultants and armies. But the notion that the enemy can be identified by his clothes is an especially comforting one in the realm of politics, since it's a lot easier to get people to change their clothes than to change their minds. In the political world, costumes get taken quite literally, as if life were a Victorian melodrama in which villains wear black and heroes wear white, with no attempts at disguise. And everyday clothing poses an even greater danger than theatrical or military costume.
Political leaders see fashion as a second language that can be spoken by just about anyone.
So they try to crack its codes, monitor its messages and cultivate it's secrets for themselves. On the opposite end of the political spectrum from the mini, the most widely persecuted piece of cloth these days is the Islamic head scarf. For some, covered hair can be as scandalous as naked legs. Last year, the Turkish Parliament shocked many Westerners by ejecting a legislator for wearing a traditional hijab to her swearing-in ceremony. To outsiders, the scarf seemed like a bid for religious freedom.