B.C. Because Sicily is mountainous, the island produces oils like Olio Verde and Barbera Frantoia that are every bit as grassy and throat-catching as classic Tuscan oils. Lake Garda Lake Garda, sandwiched between Veneto and Lombardy, would seem to be too far north for olive trees to grow. But the lake moderates temperatures, allowing for a small production of generally good oils such as the firm and mildly herbaceous Riviera. Brisighella has an aggressively grassy nose, rich flavor and plenty of grip. This is because there isn't yet a great demand for them and distribution systems in these regions are poor.
Most oils show a harvest date or an expiration date.
As oils age, they lose that intense fruitiness and any peppery edge they may have had. So don't hoard the new Sicilian treat you discovered on your last trip to Italy. Sam Gugino, Wine Spectator 's Tastes columnist, is the author of the recently published Cooking to Beat the Clock.