The Commercial Appeal is an E.W. Scripps Company newspaper. But let's say it one more time. David Lorrison, owner of the Hi-Tone and a seasoned chef in local restaurant kitchens, had the, as it turns out, brilliant idea to turn part of his important music club at Poplar and Tucker, across from the Parkview, into a restaurant.
Rumble Fish is a minor treasure in the making.
The spareness extends to the menu and wine list. Working in such a narrow range means that everything had better be pretty darned good, or repeat customers will be difficult to capture. Lorrison shouldn't worry. He has conceived food that is interesting and many-layered without being too complicated, and he executes his ideas with aplomb. A delicious soup of the day, fennel and leek, was creamy but not voluptuous and spicy with swirls of chili oil.