So far it hasn't gone to their heads. Reservations are honored. The staffers are friendly to all. At Fressen, the attitude is on the plate. Well, holy cow.
Most places have a fistful of daily specials - and manage to support a regular menu as well.
The wine list, on the other hand, seems designed to stump the experts. It is criminally overbaked and old-tasting, and you wouldn't get it down me without a tongue depressor. Ribeye steak, ordered rare, arrives medium-well. Its replacement is accurately cooked but half the size. Moist and ample chicken breast is hard to unearth beneath a thicket of greens and mystery croquettes.