Wispy clouds of sulfuric gas and steam obscure some of Pu'u O'o's activity just below. Right under the soft surface, on the side of the vent, a glowing orange disk shines like a fiery eye. I want to reach out and poke that dark pudding rock with a long stick. With eruptions that began in 1983 and ran until 1992, we've lost 181 homes. As we approach the ocean, Pele's handiwork singes the sea.
Molten lava oozes into water causing a steaming and sizzling of startling proportions.
According to the Park Service, more than 550 acres of variable coastline have been added over the last 16 years, four months. We circle back to the lava field, but Pele is not finished yet. If you go . . . Volcanoes Park offers many easy walks and day hikes and gives permits for more difficult overnight treks in certain areas. Hilo Bike Hub, near the airport, rents high-quality mountain bikes and bike racks.