The novelty of its fragrance struck the market as no less than revolutionary. Its strong and sweet undertone started a new trend defined as ''gourmand'' or ''figurative'' by the trade. Far from a traditional image of luxury and sophistication, the gourmand perfumes evoke a familiar world of simple pleasures and casual sensuality. They remind them of their childhood. The composition of the gourmand perfumes tends to be simple.
Preference is given to strong olfactory effects with long-lasting power.
Colorless, their fragrance evokes fresh spring water and sea mist. On its way out in Europe, the green trend is still strong in a modified, more floral and feminine version in the United States. Pleasures by Estee Lauder and CK1 by Calvin Klein, both extremely successful at the international level, belong to the green family. Perhaps a return to a more classic femininity. The gourmand story is already being tampered with to become a light and sophisticated ''Neo-Oriental,'' a trend originated a few years ago by Dior's Dolce Vita or Givenchy's Organza.