They explained that they came because they wanted to be where they could learn the most-a sentiment shared by the cooks, who waited months for jobs in the kitchen, not to mention the diners tapping their feet until the place opened for business. When it opened, Gramercy Tavern had a cold, overly serious interior made up for by a warm staff, and the food, by chef Tom Colicchio, was very uneven with glimpses of greatness. It took nearly a year for the restaurant to come together into what it is now-the city's top restaurant, where, unlike at Le Bernardin, you know you'll be treated well even if you're unknown to the hosts. Radius will settle into greatness, too. The problem now is perhaps less the unevenness of much of the food and the minor service glitches than the fact that you're being charged for greatness right off the bat.
Prices are staggering.
This respect and skill for vegetables and for each component on a beautifully composed plate speak volumes. The care extends to the center of the plate. The pork is the best meat I can remember eating in Boston-the kind of meltingly soft, sweet nuggets you hope you'll find if you can get private access to the roast pan and steal just the right parts from the bottom. I can't wait to eat it again. Nothing is too sweet and every texture is distinct.