I could throw stars at all the dishes. Good cheer makes the best sauce, after all. Would that all families were as tight-knit. But I have to check the urge to throw stars and award them on the merits. The ceiling is a high curved vault with many hanging lights.
Mexican tiles pave the floor.
A few tables sit outside on the sidewalk, and there's an enclosed room with a half dozen tables along the large windows that look out on Lincoln Street. The main dining room has a dozen tables and a seven-stool wine and service bar. A carved antique sideboard by the kitchen door holds napkins and other supplies for the servers. Although only two young women staffed the room when I was there, they were chipper and snappy. Candido, who arrived here from Puglia, Italy, just five years ago, bustled about the room with an earnest expression of concern that everything should be just right for his customers.