Dinnigan's lingerie, which sells at Barneys New York and Harvey Nichols in London, offers her mix of cutting-edge and heirloom style without a hint of froufrou. Before, lingerie on all levels of the market was produced exclusively by huge companies from Dim to La Perla. What's new is the collection approach from individual designers offering a personal point of view,'' says Mary Gallagher, who scouts European collections in Paris for London's Harvey Nichols. The French designer Capucine Puerari has been mixing lingerie, day and evening wear since she began in 1983. ''When I started there were lingerie collections which could double as evening wear, but they were so ornate. I'm concerned with comfort and that means taking the heavy construction out of lingerie and including invisible, lingerie-style support in evening dresses.
Presentation is very important too.
Lingerie used to rely on classics, but it has become a fashion business. It was a natural extension of what I was already doing. My clothes have always been very feminine with a very high bust line and clinched waist. One of her biggest customers is London's Agent Provocateur, and Frederick's of Hollywood, the kitsch U.S. lingerie store, has asked her to design special models. In 1991, just out of school and still in her first job as a stylist for the French brand Bolero, Vespirini presented her designs to New York's Takashimaya who ordered and financed half her startup costs.