The ham most people equate with country ham is the Smithfield-style from Virginia and North Carolina. According to food historian John F. Mariani, in order to bear the Smithfield label, the hogs are fed a special diet of peanuts, pecans or even peaches in addition to the usual corn. Then they are refrigerated again for one day per pound of meat, washed and refrigerated for another two weeks. After that, they are smoked for 10 days and then aged for six to 12 months. It's a slow process and one that has become almost a legendary delicacy.
Many people regard country ham as an acquired taste because it's so salty.
However, Ellis says that today, country hams don't need to be cured nearly as long to get that taste of tradition, and as a result, aren't nearly as salty. To cut the salt and curing material, people soak the ham in cold water for 24 to 72 hours. They change the water at least three times during the soaking period. However, many connoisseurs of country ham prefer its natural salty flavor and smoky aroma. And remember, when slices are saltier, they're cut thinner, making them go a lot further.