At one end is the sushi bar, which seats about eight. There are also 12 or so tables that, like the counter, are made of laminated plywood finished to a high gloss. The modest space is painted a creamy white. Beneath the high ceiling, a flock of white Japanese paper lanterns bobs in the slight breeze. One visit was all it took to put Mori Sushi high on my list for the quality of the fish and the skill of its sushi chefs.
Red snapper is striated with pearly rose.
Onodera's well-marbled toro has a velvety texture. Octopus carpaccio gets a light dusting of crushed pink peppercorns and a dribble of green-gold olive oil. I like watching Onodera's quick, sure movements as he scoops up the rice and works it into a perfectly elongated oval. Unlike sushi rice at most places, his isn't sweet. After ordering for myself the first time, on subsequent visits I just let Onodera take charge, asking for omakase, or chef's choice.