The alternative, used by many foreigners, is to charter a minibus. They cost more but they are much more comfortable. You'll find people taking bookings in popular tourist destinations. Budget hotels and cafes are the best places to start looking. Train travel can be even slower than bus travel, but it is more relaxed and you're likely to have decent legroom.
Petty theft can be a problem on trains, especially in budget class.
Children throwing things at carriages, everything from rocks to cow dung, is another problem, and you're advised to keep the metal shield on the window in place. Hire cars and drivers are available at reasonable prices. You'll still be stopped by the police to pay all sorts of 'fines', but at least you'll have a local with you to do the negotiating. You can hire a motorcycle to drive yourself if you have an International Driver's Permit endorsed for motorcycles. The anarchic traffic is a big hazard, as is the possibility of scams.