It's the Grizzly Grill in downtown Blairsden, about 50 miles up Highway 89 from Truckee. You go through Graeagle, Blairsden's Siamese twin, cross the Middle Fork of the Feather River and turn right just before the railroad overpass. That's a mantra you'll hear being chanted in kitchens all over the Bay Area, where Hagen trained.
Golfers love it.
Not that Hagen disdains what the market seeks. But there's no market for it here. They've been on the mountain all day and they don't want to look at, you know, a baby carrot next to a pea next to a string bean. But the entry-level position it made possible was at Auberge du Soleil in the Napa Valley. I worked the vegetable station.