Lavish homes built from native coral rock beg for repair. The government of Zanzibar is struggling to preserve Stone Town before time and salt have their way with its architecture. But for now, decrepitude is part of Stone Town's mystique. Stray dogs sniff for breakfast on street corners as boys haul sacks of fish to market. The smell of the ocean is everywhere, and the women move slow, draped in black, silent as shadows.
Mopeds are all the rage.
If you're looking for debauchery, don't go. Zanzibar is a traditional Islamic land, and social norms are conservative. Many restaurants don't serve liquor, and drinking in front of strangers is a faux pas. Local women leave only portions of their faces uncovered, and female tourists who wish to avoid harassment should consider following suit. Our skirts reached our ankles, but we still felt naked.