A two-minute walk away is the Burg, the centre of medieval Bruges which hosts nine centuries of different architectural styles. A short stroll south takes you to the antique and flea markets perched on the bank of the Dijver canal, in front of a cluster of art galleries. These white-washed houses were once home to the beguines, a lay sisterhood who lived and dressed as nuns but who did not take vows so they could return at will to their lovers in the secular world. Guided tours are one of Bruges's biggest industries but choose carefully. Tickets cost Bfr190 and boats depart from the Djiver every 10 minutes.
Queues are long, so go last thing in the evening when the city empties out.
Drivers talk mostly about their horses. For Bfr650, you can take a mountain-bike tour with an English guide through the villages surrounding Bruges. But there are more than 400 brews in Bruges. Walk east up Hoogstraat for the best beer gardens. Bars start to fill up around 11pm.