It's worth booking ahead - even when staged in Greek, the passion of their plays are easily understood. North of Pafos St. Neophytos Monastery and Enkleistra nestle high in the hills. Born in 1134, St. Neophytos was a humble peasant who taught himself to read and write, then travelled extensively in the Holy Land. After returning to Pafos, he settled in a wooded valley. Later, prompted by the arrival of would-be monastic students, the reclusive monk dug out a second cave, above the first one, and followed the services in the cave below, through a connecting shaft.
Lovely frescoes adorn the cave walls, including in the tiny chapel, the saint's cell and tomb.
Between these caves and the nearby monastery are some of the finest examples of Byzantine art in the Orthodox world. Polis is a small, laid-back sort of town, with a few small hotels and villas to rent, and a spectacular campsite on the Akamas peninsula. One popular trail leads to the Baths of Aphrodite, where she used to meet her lover, Adonis. It's now a somewhat murky pool within a fig tree grove, but another trail leads from here to the clearer Fountain of Love. Take a picnic and drink in the views.