In this lesson we will examine the Heisenberg uncertainty principle. Quantitatively, we can make an approximate calculation of the magnitude of this effect. These laws include kinematics, dynamics, gravitation, thermodynamics, and the characteristics of wave motion. The generation and conclusion of ocean surf embody the broad sciences of meteorology, geology, and physics.
Ocean swell is originated by storms far out from land.
Generally the isolated larger storms create the best surfing waves. These waves use constructive interference to build themselves into parallel wave-fronts. The Pacific shores of North America are far better for surfers because waves from the many storms in various parts of the great expanse of the Pacific Ocean are reinforced by prevailing westerly winds as they roll eastward. Surf along the Atlantic shore is smaller because the westerly winds blow against the advancing waves and decrease their effect. Wind waves are a more localized phenomenon.