The distinctive cuisines of the hills, marshes, coasts and mountains of what is now Tuscany offer him all the leeway he needs to intrigue and delight. What is needed is more vigilant timing. Our fegato, ordered medium, arrived medium-well. The carrots were tiny and tasty and plain mashed potatoes are an excellent foil for assertively herbed and spiced meat, fish and fowl. Personally, I'm beginning to think that the current compulsion to flavor mashed potatoes with any- and everything from horseradish to hyssop does more for the chef's ego than for the diner's enjoyment.
Plain foods have their place.
But not when it comes to dessert. It's a matter of taste, of course, but I prefer to skip it or revel in it. If you choose to revel, La Trattoria is ready with festive finales. Torta baarozzi, a flourless chocolate torte, was so good my guest was loath to part with more than a smidgen. But my favorite was a fresh pear, almond and cranberry tart with a crumbly, grainy crust.