Wines are listed under symbols from the I Ching, a device that's supposed to make choosing easy. Novelty is what AZ is all about, and it can be a heck of a lot of fun. American Express Esca calls itself Italian, but it's one of the most interesting seafood restaurants in New York. This is reason enough to visit this theatre-district venue, the latest in the Bastianich chain. Yet, the sophisticated mix of wine professionals, theater-goers and celebrities makes Esca more than simply a good place to eat.
Rustic pastas play supporting roles to the range of seafood.
Whole orata in a salt crust reflects both the simplicity of the menu and its reliance on fresh, well-prepared ingredients. Esca offers plenty of wine to wash it all down. The main dining area feels roomy, courtesy of a high ceiling and plenty of windows. Subdued lighting, table linens and good wineglasses add simple elegance. Casual, unobtrusive service delivers it all in an engaging but never overbearing way.