The intersection of art and science sometimes leads to controversy. Ortman cited one relatively new piece of technology, the spinning cone column, that has caused debate between those who favor natural, traditional methods and those who would argue that a technique is legitimate as long as it produces better wine. He described a spinning cone as a centrifugelike device used to reduce alcohol levels. But the spinning cone is not just a tax evasion ploy. The cone allows the winemaker to harvest grapes when they are ripe and flavorful.
Ripe grapes have more sugar, and that translates into stiffer alcohol levels.
Ortman views it as an example of the kind of beneficial tool that science and technology bring to the art of winemaking. Anne Schamberg is a freelance writer who lives in Waukesha. All rights reserved. Produced by Journal Interactive .