High-back chairs invite conversation over a long drink, and it's easy to settle in for dinner if you can't get a table. A few months ago, Elchuck and Thomas closed for 12 days while their ceiling was acoustically modified. The souffle is the pinnacle of pleasure among the small dishes, but there's not one I'd hesitate to recommend. Fresh black mussels, steamed in saffron broth with tomatoes and oregano, is the simplest. The vinaigrette is slightly sweet on the tongue.
Every table gets fresh bread with a chunk of four-onion compound butter, an irresistible mixture.
And if you don't mind a little more starch, try the wild mushroom ragout served over grilled bread. There are three green dishes. The simple salad with spiced pumpkin seeds is large enough to share. Its lightly creamy sherry-nutmeg dressing is divine. Grilled quail salad with beets, oranges and bleu cheese nicely precedes one of the meatless main courses.