On many occasions, I've scraped my knuckles on the reef during the duck-dive, and this day was no exception. Then on Saturday, the surf jumped with a surprise massive swell that peaked at 18 feet. I, of course, could only drool at the surf reports as I was committed for the weekend. It probably was junk anyway, with a lousy swell direction and onshores during the day. The winter's still very young.
Patience is a virtue.