Anchor The most important element of the belay is the anchor. Most belay accidents are caused through failure of the belayer. Therefore, it is important to use two anchors or slings when possible and test the anchor first by applying stress. Friction Friction is what keeps one alive if there is a fall. Sometimes the human body is used for friction.
Many belay devices aid the belayer in protecting the climber above or below.
The belayer should be secured to a fixed anchor in certain situations, i.e., the climber outweighs his belayer. The belayer protects the life of the climber at all times. Practice until holding with the proper hand is automatic. Position Robbins continues by writing that friction is useless unless the body is braced toward the direction of pull. Usually, this means a straight leg on the side of the rope going to the climber.