It's baked in a 500-degree oven to sear it, and the result is ceremoniously boned and filleted at tableside. The accompanying spinach is unexciting and a bit gritty and the potatoes are dry and overroasted. But the desserts are just about as dazzling and exotically toothsome as the openers. It's a sweet, refreshing confection and the best example of the genre this side of Angelo Brocato's in New Orleans. The candied almonds sprinkled on top add crunch to the otherwise suave texture.
Italian reds dominate the rather pricey hundred-item wine list.