The soaring central stupa is topped by an aureate block featuring the watchful eyes of Buddha. Set around the base is a continuous series of prayer wheels which pilgrims, circumambulating the stupa, spin as they pass by. Beyond Swayambhunath, on the banks of the Bagmati River, is Pashupatinath , the country's pre-eminent Hindu temple and one of the most significant Shiva temples on the subcontinent. Another site with a religious bent is the huge stupa of Bodhnath , which is the largest in the country and among the largest in the world. It's also the centre for Nepal's considerable population of Tibetans.
Late afternoon is a good time to visit.
Surrounding Bodhnath are a number of monasteries, but be discreet and respectful if you intend visiting them. Most of the valley attractions around Kathmandu can be reached on foot but the easiest way to get around is by bicyle. If that sounds a bit too energetic, consider hiring a taxi for the day. What you get instead is hot subtropical plains and some of the most fascinating attractions in Nepal. Foremost among them is the magnificent Royal Chitwan National Park , once the hunting ground for British and Nepalese aristocrats.