Positioned one per car, but circulating freely after their initial spiels, they keep up a running patter of pertinent facts about passing landmarks. The hour flies by much too fast. And soon the wilderness terrain gives way to the outskirts of Mexico's most tranquil border town, Tecate, famous for its beer, its bakeries and its great town square. The last 10 minutes of the trip may well be the best welcome you'll ever get anywhere. Women look up from their backyard washing and wave.
Kids run along the track and wave.
Cowboys, carpenters and even cops stop to wave. In fact, the local police actually block off the streets for your three-block stroll from the station into town. So kick back and enjoy a couple of languid hours hanging out in this gentle mountain town. The whole town hears it, knows the routine and will make sure you're back on board.