There's no disputing that Sedona is no longer a hidden treasure to be enjoyed largely by Arizonans. But to be fair, Sedona isn't really overrun with tourists. It can seem that way in the peak of summer, when tourists from around the world mix with Phoenix residents fleeing the relentless lower desert heat for Sedona's cooler, 4,500-foot elevation. Here, the golden arches at the lone McDonald's outlet are painted a subdued green. The Bank One branch is a handsome buff-colored stucco building.
Most businesses seem to blend seamlessly into their wooded surroundings.
Yes, Sedona is bigger and busier than it used to be. But it still offers spectacular scenery and solitude, served up now with cappuccino and bagel shops and maybe a therapeutic massage and an aura reading. The tourist flow begins to taper off in the fall. December through February are the off-season months, when hotel room rates tumble and hardly another human is encountered on forest hiking trails.