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Now it looks like a war zone. Its trees have vanished, along with its cooling water fountains and even its pavement. What remains is a landmark statue of the celebrated heretic Giordano Bruno, covered by scaffolding, and a small army of workers pounding cobblestones into sand. Like many Italian issues, from soccer to politics, Jubilee preparations have stirred emotions. Critics dispute the timetable and lament that many projects aimed at making Rome more livable next year were dropped.