The processing of it is real cheap. Since legal meat and caviar can be brought from Oregon, and since sports fishermen may possess meat and roe, catching poachers in California is difficult. Authorities believe the black market trade may be thriving because the demand for legal caviar is growing so rapidly. Legitimate caviar sales in the United States rose from 200,000 pounds per year in the late 1970s to about 700,000 pounds last year. We can't supply enough.
Restaurants are the primary customers.
With two-income families, observes Engstrom, couples eat out more often and their tastes have become more luxuriant. People more and more distinguish the difference between caviars. A good caviar, say experts, should have a shiny texture, not be swimming in oil nor be sticky, dry or overwhelmed with salt. It should not taste fishy, for that means it has been exposed to air too long. It should be slightly salty, delicately fresh and mild.