And if authenticity is imperative, it's a mite nearer the mark. Because even the upper-range cooking is reasonably priced, and because the sticky rice that accompanies it works well with chopsticks, we often order from the menu. But the buffet's always there with eight or 10 colorful, frequently refreshed hot preps. Not long ago, the Lins had the restaurant completely redecorated. Mirrored and quietly papered walls rise above blond wood dadoes.
Lighting is calm and professionally done.
The result is a small and pleasant haven from the storm on Tennessee. Pocket Sandwich Emporium. West Tennessee St. 224-6955. Major credit cards and local checks accepted. Smoking on the patio.