Bullfighting Museum, memorabilia, posters, costumes. Parador La Arruzafa, state run. Silver filigree, embossed leather. Maugham, Michener, Theroux. The cedar ceiling is delicately tinted.
Mosaics glisten against gold.
The world's second-largest mosque, after Mecca, it was built in 784 on the foundations of a Visigoth church. It underwent expansion with each caliph until completion in 976. The ''Reconquista'' of 1236 turned it into a Christian church, ending its role as a center of Arab pilgrimage. In an ingenious stroke, its builders inserted a band of lead between column and capital to guard against demolition by earthquake. Surrounded by a fortresslike wall, the mosque, courtyard, and minaret measure 60 by 430 feet.