The chefs and operators spiffing up the Lone Star State's fare may get the last laugh. For the past several years, the food of Texas has been in transition. It has redefined itself by focusing on indigenous, seasonal and often higher-quality ingredients. Within that Texas metamorphosis, classic Tex-Mex also has evolved but more slowly, unable to grab headlines outside its home state.
Proponents attribute it to the stigma attached to the cuisine.
But as the country began to define authentic Mexican in the early '70s, Tex-Mex developed a bad rap as not being the real thing when in fact it has its own identity. Look no further than the next generation quick-service Mexican restaurants touting fresh Mex, such as Baja Fresh Mexican Grill and Chipotle Mexican Grill. In other countries, however, especially France, Tex-Mex and its cowboy image gained a big following. At the most basic level, new style or nuevo Tex-Mex finds virtue in its simplicity. Think grilled meat seasoned with lime, onions and chiles or plump saut ed Gulf shrimp with tomatillo sauce.