But Son has enjoyed a recent revival. In a reaction to the Westernization that accompanied rapid economic development, South Koreans are now rediscovering their identity. The renewed interest has seen a return to the mass pilgrimages of the past and huge donations for temple repair. Sessions at the center are held in a bare attic room over which a lone golden statue of Buddha presides from a central wooden altar. Incense fills the room with its soporific scent.
Followers meditate by sitting cross-legged in silence facing the wall.
To begin meditating, focus on controlled breathing. Alternatively focus on Hwadu, known in Japanese as Koan, an enigmatic and ill-defined term that describes the apex of the concentrated mind. Followers of both methods hope to achieve inner peace, illumination and, ultimately, enlightenment. Beginners, however, will probably have to settle for a little relative tranquillity. The center also offers retreats lasting from a week to three months.