The vast disco, Help, said to be the largest in South America, springs into action about midnight. Nonetheless, the place seems generally safe. Just to the south, the neighborhoods of Ipanema and Leblon are a bit more refined, with fewer hotels, more restaurants. The girl from Ipanema is now a woman in her 40s or 50s, living in gracious historic buildings and modern high-rises. The beach here is still active, though not quite as pretty as the wide crescent at Copacabana.
Locals powerwalk, jog and rent swan-shaped boats at the huge lagoon that is the area's nexus.
On Sundays, Ipanema's General Osorio Square teems with shoppers and vendors at the weekly Hippy Fair, a ramble of paintings, leather goods and handicrafts. During the week, chic Ipanema boutiques tout sleek housewares and stylish clothes. Here, too, is the headquarters of H. Stern, the specialist in colored gemstones. The company offers a free 12-minute audio tour of its workshop, where you can see how the gems are cut and set.