The staff is knowledgeable and accommodating, and the dining room is upscale but comfy. The dimly lit room, with pretty amber lamps, soft velour curtains and crisp napery, is a warm and slightly formal setting. Homemade bread is thinly sliced, toasted, spread with a tapenade of farga and manzanilla olives and topped with a shiny, marinated anchovy that will forever change your notion of the minuscule, maligned fish. Finish up with the best flan in town. 2764 NW Thurman St., 226-0409.
Lunches are hearty and good.
NW Hoyt St., 226-3451. Save room for the caramelized crema Catalana or the house-made lemon ice cream. 2821 SE Stark St., 232-0948. Space is tight, and the cafe doesn' t take reservations, but the staff is one of the friendliest around and will take care of you as quickly as possible. 533 SE Grand Ave., 232-6512.