Maybe somewhere Bogey would have hung out. Known for serving caviar and sturgeon, this diminutive Center City bar changed hands again this spring. A former habitue of the kitchens of the Four Seasons, both here and in New York, and of Tony Clark's, where he met Parrotta, O'Kane changes the inventive menu daily. But fans of the old Rooster won't feel too out of place here, since the decor appears to have changed little. A bit down at the heels now, it still has that male clubhouse atmosphere, with Brazilian rosewood bar and tables, a mirror behind the bar and Billie Holiday on the stereo.
Roosters still decorate niches around the room.
When my friend Howard and I arrived, we were able to nab a booth, as much of the crowd seemed to be there mainly to have an after-work drink. Though there was the occasional hipster with spiky hair thrown in for good measure, the bar was aswarm with men in suits. Our black-clad waiter brought over the blackboard menu for us to see and spoke knowledgeably about the food. A signature touch here is the chewy bread served with olive oil that has chopped chives littering the bottom of the bowl - a nice innovation. The greens, too, were a bit wilted.