Except for the ornamental green and red spires of the Kremlin, which dominates the city's skyline, you might be in New York or Paris. Tver is slower paced. Light traffic commingles with electric trolleys. One fast-food restaurant has appeared so far, a Milano's pizzeria that opened last month. Most other eateries are traditional cafes with carefully prepared fresh salads and entrees.
Few establishments accept credit cards.
Some of Tver's population seem trapped in the early 20th century. To Molchanov, former President Mikhail Gorbachev's program of economic and political restructuring has ruined his homeland. And yet, while Molchanov actively campaigns for the return of Communism, he's not resentful or angry, but more worried about the future. He also benefits from the kindness of friends and sponsors, who fund this physically fit senior in canoe competitions worldwide. Meanwhile, younger Tver residents seem to be stepping out of the older lifestyle, straight into the new millennium.