In another appetizer, smoked trout mousse is teased into a pretty tower and surrounded by purple potatoes. Even a Caesar salad is made fanciful by deconstructing the elements into a swirl of red romaine, plump white anchovies, and croutons piled into a curve of crisped Parmesan. His growing up in a military family in Europe and other farflung spots on the globe underlies Bussell's cooking, which he describes as using the influences of melting pot America with French technique. Indian fritters show off a range of spices and rest in a lovely saar, or sauce of roasted tomatoes laced with coconut. The entrees have similar layers of flavors.
Roasted pheasant is savory and plump, tasting of herbs that have been inserted under the skin.
With it come gently braised red and green cabbages, spiced with quince and a sprightly apple cider demi-glace. It's great winter eating, comfort food with style. Deconstructed duck is appearing on more and more menus, and Butterfish's version is definitely one to try. Fat circles of duck breast, with crackly skin and just enough fat to add flavor, are grilled and napped with a port wine reduction. There's a toothsome confit of duck leg, salty and tender, and some grilled artichokes, making this another winter tour de force.