Whether you had to drive, bike or walk, your biggest concern was looking both ways before crossing the street and keeping the wax on your deck from melting in the sunshine. Those who have grown long in tooth, ample in waistline, and thin up top, have struggled to maintain the stoke that surfing provides. Others have found it on a longboard. Whether they have graduated or reverted to this mode of entertainment, the battle has just begun. Surfing was easy when you didn t have to work.
Professors don t take attendance.
Blowing off a day of work, however, has a different set of consequences. Perhaps you should have waited until the weekend to hit the beach. It s safe to say a major reason most of us started surfing was the fact that we lived close to the beach. It was easier than going to the mountains to ski or the rivers to fish. Born and raised in California I could cut school to go surfing.