Elvira's on a roll now, keen to practise her French and educate me in textile anthropology. Mayans are very spiritual people. Their spiritual leader is the shaman or priest and Elvira visits her local priest most weeks - sometimes just to help get rid of a headache. She leads me through the market to visit him. He performs his mysterious ceremony in a black embroidered jacket and peacock-bright headdress.
Mayan women are much more faithful to tradition but they're up against competition.
The export and import of global textiles are increasing in Guatemala. Most of the cloth is acryllic and large factories now spew out acres of commercial cloth. Guatemala has to survive. It's having to link up with global markets after decades of isolation. Now I'd be happy if everyone wore traditional costume and bright colours.