The mechanics of a swell are intuitive.
Gravity draws the bulge down below the mean surface into a trough.
After that, the former trough rebounds to form the next bulge. Kayaking Basics more info buy now A 10-foot swell sounds threatening, but it's actually a kick. The touring kayak under which it passes rises majestically to the summit, providing a panoramic view. The kayak and you are lowered into the trough, and though water rises well above your bow and stern, it presents no threat of crashing on you. A moment later, you catch the up elevator, and are again king of the mountain.