The cakes, tarts and puddings are virtually interchangeable from one menu to the next. They follow a simple progression, beginning with apple strudels, lemon tarts, banana cakes and sorbets, moving on to cheesecakes and puddings, and reaching the apex with the pastry chefs' chocolate weapons of choice. Some offer wine pairings for an extra cost. Of those restaurants that do feature tasting menus, about half of them do so exclusively. Regardless of price, cuisine or location, almost all of these restaurants present diners with a narrow focus and make their intentions clear.
Menus are short, often comprising only half a dozen different appetizers or main courses.
These restaurants achieve the delicate balance that affords diners the chance to splurge while remaining comfortably grounded in simplicity and familiarity. Like the menus, the wine lists of today's newest restaurants are carefully focused. The economics of launching a restaurant in New York make it difficult to establish a large wine cellar upon opening. The new wine list is short, but it is also well-balanced, with excellent individual selections, and the overwhelming majority reflect an effort to pair wine to the food. The restaurants that boast wine lists of great depth are the most sparsely represented of our group.