Independent since 1993, Eritrea is once again at war with Ethiopia, which claims ownership of some of Eritrea's border. I've just returned from Eritrea, seeing the war zones, consulting diplomats, aid workers, Ethiopians, President Isaias Afewerki, and ordinary people. As one who has reported from a score of African countries over the past 40 years, I've no hesitation saying that Eritrea is unlike anything I've encountered in Africa. Now I have renewed hope. There is no begging, little crime, streets are clean and safe.
Religious aid is accepted only if it's secular.
The law now gives women full equality with rights of land ownership, choosing mates and making their own decisions on divorce. There is national service for everyone between 18 and 45, men and women. Today hairstyles vary and all wear camouflage uniforms. Last spring Ethiopia's parliament in essence declared war and bombed Asmara, while Eritrea retaliated without formally declaring war. Through it all, Eritrea has so far remained something of a paragon of patience, resolve and even democracy, while bloodying Ethiopia's nose.