Two rear panniers, two small front panniers and a handlebar bag. Softer saddle and pedals than the originals. Weight of bike 11 kilo, weight of luggage 10 kilo. The pleasure of pedalling is very limited in heavy traffic. And Italian roads do have dense traffic.
Road conditions are suprisingly good.
Even village roads are paved. Broken glass is fortunatly rare. But along the roadside you can see litter everywhere. Our impression before this tour was that in Italy people do not commute by bike. But that of course is a question of topography.