The wine industry was in the process of reinventing itself, a process that included the wholesale removal of hundreds of vines. But the world outside has changed. Which meant people tried even harder to hang on to tradition - but they were clinging too hard. It all got a bit fake. These days, people are a bit more relaxed.
Locals still celebrate their heritage, which is more Prussian than German.
But they're also celebrating change. The 2001 Vintage Festival promises to be a good one, in more ways than one. Wine maker Grant Burge says it's the best shiraz season he's ever seen - and he's seen more than 30. Over the past 10 years, the thousand or so volunteers that bring the festival together have worked out various ways to combine genuine community events with a world-class food and wine extravaganza. There'll be a sausage sizzle with sensational house-smoked meats and superb sausages from local butcher, Linkes.