It is a heavy cotton blend which comes in two forms. It has eyelet holes and is embroidered with different colored thread, satiny or shiny. The new form has a shiny metallic look while the old authentic type is plain. It is an expensive fabric. Sylvia suggests that you purchase brocade covered with super wax.
English brocade is the best.
Switzerland also makes excellent brocade, she says. Many African designed fabrics are actually made in European countries. Stars are printed on the selvage to show the level of quality of the brocade. To tell if a fabric is waxed, you will notice that one side has a shine. The wax is to protect the color and print on the fabric.