Paper Chinese lanterns, carved jade figurines and expensive sake sets line one aisle and impressive lacquered furniture make up another. An enormous tank of live tilapia fish is worth a visit, but if you can't be responsible for an on- site murder, there are plenty of fresh fish, shellfish and calamari on ice available. A stroll down the produce aisle reveals fresh lotus root, lemongrass, tiny green eggplants and fresh Asian pears. Anyone who has savored the light orchid scent and the subtle rush of clarity found in a cup of Kwan Yin will know precisely why this is such a find. Certainly by now Mr. Yin will have completed your meal.
Most dishes are fairly light, although the portions are enormous.
The duck can appear a little frightening, seeing as it had been hung, hooked and barbecued head, beak and all, but under Mr. Ying's rather large and impressive knife, it can be refried and heated so that the duck re-crisps nicely. The soy-based lacquer with a hint of anise, ginger and a touch of orange provides a dark, crispy and satisfying find. You could eat there, hunkered down at the little orange plastic table as I've seen a few customers do, those too ravenous to make it home with their duck intact. Or you can exercise a bit of self-restraint and keep your packages bagged up until you get home. You might even want to pick up a bottle of sake or a six-pack of Chinese beer on your way out.