Even free diving, you just about see it all. It s nice knowing that sites like Twin Peaks still exist. Further on, a narrow, shallow channel enters a mangrove lagoon with another tranquility fix. After the mangroves, work down the coast to Lake Cayangan, jewel of Coron. The lake trail approach is splattered with coral and strange tidal zone tubes pumping water straight from rock.
Reef fish are everywhere.
Tagbanua Elders worry that kayaking may open the door to motorboats. The trail is about 300 meters over a nice hill, and the swim well worth it. Bring bug juice. After the lake, there are two more turquoise coves. The circumnavigation finishes right across the channel from Makinit Hot springs, a two-hour crossing unless you ordered a banca.