The town square is the largest in Europe and teems with activity. It is one of the great sights, something to add to one's list of Things to Do before it gets spoiled. Opened a year ago by two young architects, it has a level of sophistication and taste that, it is safe to say, you will not find elsewhere in Cracow. Its restaurant is superb. One dines as well here as anywhere, and far less expensively, as Poland is still by Western standards a bargain.
Polish cuisine can be delicious, but it is different.
At Krew I Roza restaurant, we had kiszka, peasant black pudding with cabbage and fried onions. All this presented in an underground cellar by candlelight. It was charming and hearty, with a complimentary after-dinner snort of homemade rose vodka. Afterward, we strolled the square at night and watched Cracow come to life. A trumpeter in the tower of St. Mary's sounds the hour 24 times a day.