Since I don't know where to drill the finger holes I'll try to follow Rick Miller's design, tunning them from the lowest one to the highest and see what happends. The tube length is directly related to frequency. When the air column hits the outside world, it slightly blows beyond the pipes physical length, the calculation above works for most pipes. It doesn't work with extremes. The bending can be taken to exremes.
Many brass instruments put all sorts of curves in the tube, some of the curves switchable by keys.
I'll go home tonight and stick a thermometer in one of the holes in my flute to see how hot the air actually is. It is well known that flutes get noticably sharper when they are first played as they heat up. Every article I have read on building flutes cautions not to adjust the pitch of a cold flute, because it will be too far off when played for any length of time. Most beginning flute makers seem to follow the same method of drilling starter holes in convenient positions, and iteratively tune them from the end back towards the embouchure. The actual positions of the holes do not need to be precise, the hole sizes are adjusted to set the pitches.