And any white that's too sweet in its sugar or too flowery in its aromas is likely to overpower the delicacy of this dish. A spare semillon, a sauvignon blanc or perhaps a dry chenin blanc would have promise. Do what the chefs do. That's part of the joy of tasting wines and cooking. All three of these wines often have lemony flavors to complement the zest, are dry enough to complement the vodka or grappa and usually don't project strong flavors that would overwhelm the delicate sauce.
More complex dishes require the same approach.
I have a cold summer soup recipe that includes onions, apples, celery, potatoes, chicken stock, heavy cream, pepper and curry. The curry and celery mesh wonderfully well with the aromas and flavors of the wine. The wine can greatly alter the character, depending on whether you pick semillon, sauvignon blanc or chardonnay. One of my favorite recipes for venison tenderloin includes a brown sauce made from beef stock, red currant jelly, minced garlic, caramelized chopped onions, black pepper, thyme and red wine. Again, the wine chosen for the sauce should be served with the meal.