Those of you still mourning the 1998 closure of Martha's Vineyard, the elegant Italian eatery that was a beloved fixture on Clifton's Route 3 for a quarter-century, take heart. The management simply exited the highway, headed up Allwood Road, and opened Buco, a chic little eatery that sets the same Vineyard cuisine against a casual, contemporary backdrop.
Graceful wall sconces resembling art glass calla lilies provide gentle illumination.
It's at once sophisticated and relaxed, which exactly sums up the new Buco experience. The service at Buco varied. On the weekend, however, one laid-back server and one overworked busboy added up to a less attentive experience. But the food was nearly always perfect. The combination of flavors was superb and the ingredients excruciatingly fresh.