When biscuit-making was an everyday skill, a thicket of myths grew up around it. It's no wonder that when convenience products like baking mixes and tube biscuits came along, cooks were happy to let somebody else take over. But before biscuit-making passes out of our lives entirely, it's worth remembering that they are really very simple. There are just a few things to know about making good biscuits, says Shirley Corriher, a former chemist. When protein cells grab each other, they form tough sheets of gluten that help trap gases, letting breads rise.
Less protein means less gluten, for more tender biscuits and pastries.
But liquid is a part of the secret, too, Corriher says. If there's less protein, the flour will absorb less moisture. While it's true that overhandling biscuit dough will make it tough, that doesn't mean you can't handle it at all. Low-protein flours can be handled a lot and still not create as much gluten, Corriher says. Another problem we encounter with biscuits may be our expectations.