Chtaura could be compared to Nevada, whose constitution was drawn up with the idea of attracting Californians by legalizing things gambling and prostitution that were banned across the state border. On Fridays, the Sabbath in Syria, Chtaura's parking lots overflow with vehicles bearing Damascus license plates. This is where we keep our money because nobody trusts the Syrian banks. There are some 14 banks and various insurance companies strung out along the 13-mile commercial stretch known as Chtaura. The town itself is actually less than a mile across, but every business in the neighborhood claims a Chtaura address because of its fame.
Lebanese bankers say their busiest branches are here.
After the banks, the next pilgrimage stop is often Ghazale Supermarket. Ten years ago, explained Fouad Ghazale, one of the owners, it was sufficient to stock imported detergent. But as more goods are available in Damascus, routine imports no longer suffice. The war rarely touched Chtaura, and the reason is evident just 100 yards from Ghazale's, where a Syrian checkpoint slows traffic. Syria has maintained 35,000 troops in Lebanon since 1976, and calm in this town is doubly assured by the presence of a key office of military intelligence.