Jorge, owner of the dark, subterranean pub, has lived in England and keeps behind the bar English sports magazines. Jorge is also very pro-Celtic, which in his case means he is a fan of the Boston Celtics professional basketball team. Santiago's marketplace, beside the Iglesia de San Agustin, brings Galician farmers from the countryside. In the early morning, they set up makeshift stands and sell cabbage, tomatoes, and other vegetables. A favorite local food is queso de pais , a white, cone-shaped farmer's cheese traditionally served with honey.
Fishmongers offer live crab, scallops and mussels taken from the nearby Atlantic.
Shopping in the Santiago market is as much a medieval experience as the botafumeiro swinging in the cathedral. There are no set prices and bargaining is the norm. I traveled to Galicia by rail from Madrid via Leon, and found the ride through mountain passages exhilarating. The Tourist Office can provide detailed information on the Spanish railway system. Iberia Airlines internal service, Aviaco , also operates commuter flights throughout the country.