It might be a miniature puff of a corncake or a tiny tower of paper-thin toasts with dollops of fennel puree, olive paste and roasted red peppers. The crunch and silkiness, salt and earthiness are like an exclamation point, drawing your attention to delicacies to come. Gamba is still, of course, learning his way around American kitchens and markets. No need to wait, though. Already you can put together an exciting meal from his fledgling menu.
First courses are easy.
They're nearly all wonderful. The smell of chestnuts envelops your table when their opaque earth-colored soup is poured over its garnish of truffles, more chestnuts and a juicy little stuffed chicken drumette that's meant to be eaten by hand. Or it would be if the alternatives weren't also dazzling. Foie gras is offered hot or cold. The former is sauteed and crusty with a poached pear and a drizzle of port reduction glistening on the plate.