Food writing all too often consists of pretty pictures and detailed recipes.
That's a pity. Properly researched, gastronomy offers a window into a country's history, culture, and economics. And of all places, none can be better deciphered by its dining than France, home to some of the most accomplished practitioners of the art of cuisine. Mort Rosenblum's A Goose in Toulouse makes a valiant effort at understanding the modern Gallic soul. But the French also relish their deep rural roots and ancestral family ties.