I waved tentatively to catch her eye and her face broke into the most beautiful and joyous smile. Our wordless exchange touched me, somehow, very deeply. As we pulled away, she broke into full salute, waving with one hand, flailing her doll with the other. Quiet Andean villages afford many quirky surprises to the careful observer. Locals wearing rough sandals, sweaters and cowboy hats gather in front of a tiny store under Coca-Cola banners that snap jauntily in the breeze.
Horses jostle with four-wheel drive jeeps.
I saw one man loading up two huge burlap sacks onto his pack animal to make the journey back to his home in the hills. I can't speak for the quality of their goods but they've cornered the convenience trade better than any 7-Eleven back home. If you're hungry, the corner kiosk can supply you with empanadas, roasted pork or Bubblicious gum. Several hours later, as we descended into Barinas province, change was perceptible all around. The grass and vegetation turned tropical.