The tart is surrounded by unidentifiable chewy bits of meat. My guess is gizzards, but we're informed they are in fact marinated pieces of quail leg - a lot of trouble for nothing. A second starter, composed of slices of smoked duck breast served with artichoke heart and artichoke puree, is equally dull. Moreover, vegetable purees are passe - unless we're talking gourmet baby food. But the dish is ruined by peeled smoked tomatoes that literally taste like the aftermath of a house fire.
Main courses fare somewhat better.
A tender pork filet is wrapped in cabbage, spread with an assertive tapenade, and served atop blinis. The steamed cucumber accompaniment upholds the light air of the dish. The rack of lamb is another story. Coated with a crust of parsley as dense and green as Astroturf, the three thick chops are fatty and have little flavour. Fortunately, they are served with a generous helping of sauteed pearl onions and crisp lardons.