Quality was another matter. Adding lard or rancid butter as a cheese filler was a common problem in the early decades, Apps' book reports, especially in the export market. Complaints from places like Liverpool, England, that their Wisconsin cheese arrived inedible led to state laws prohibiting such adulteration. In 1916, Wisconsin became the first state to require cheesemakers to have a license. But dates and laws tell only part of the story.
Historical facts tie the stories together.
He calls this approach creative non-fiction writing. While only industry people and serious cheese buffs may care about the details of how cheese is made, Apps' book is effectively designed for the general reader. Some of Apps' best stories came from older citizens. Talking with them was one of the most satisfying aspects of his research, he said. I heard that again and again.