The last time I tried, at Oznot's Dish in Williamsburg, I found a delicious alternative version. This happy accident happened again, this time in Boerum Hill, where a long arm of gentrification stretched along Smith Street is grasping past Bergen Street, the northern border of Cobble Hill. Victory Kitchen, the Boerum Hill Food Company, and Saul are its fingers, the first of which . . . Victory Kitchen has a neat takeoff of eggs Benedict. But magic lay beneath and alongside, for instead of Canadian bacon, there were slices of delicious, rare hangar steak.
Hangar steak is a tubelike muscle that holds the diaphragm in place.
There's only one per cow, and it's highly prized for its tenderness and flavor. Under the steak was not an English muffin, but two thin slices of brioche. The steak's flavor overwhelms them, but the brioche was still effervescently fluffy, soaking up steak juice and finishing with a bready puff upon the tongue. I loved it. I had expected the usual soft, mushy home fries, but these accompanying potatoes were much better than that.