The crispy chicken burrito, stuffed with pico de gallo, black beans and chipotle mayonnaise, is big enough to share. Among appetizers, for instance, there is a hefty crab cake, filled out with roasted corn niblets, green onion and white cheddar cheese and surrounded by a jalapeno-flecked tartar sauce. The chef's sense of humor is further evident in the sesame-chipotle chicken wings, which essentially are Concannon's take on buffalo chicken wings. Put a platter of these in front of me on Super Bowl Sunday and I'd be a happy man. Tuna tartare is an almost architectural, foodie-friendly appetizer.
Entrees are less showy but full of flavor.
My favorite is the lamb shank, its tender meat drenched in a chipotle barbecue sauce that's balanced by a sweet corn pudding. Garlic-roasted chicken breast with mole poblano, garlicky mashed potatoes and queso fresco is simple and delightful. The dessert list is short and sweet. I like the flan, whose accompanying caramel sauce is deliberately overdone to add a bitter accent to the simple custard. The chocolate souffle cake is a tad dry but packed with flavor, served with scoops of chocolate ice cream and chocolate mousse.