However, many of the shopkeepers who run little grocery stores are the grumpiest people I have ever seen. Siena is quite touristy right around the Campo and to the NW to the bus terminal, but the rest of the city is much less so. The pizzas there are good and the calzone look awesome too. They also have good pasta and the service is quick. No cover charge and reasonable prices.
Food is good but read the strange thing note further down as the prices went wonky.
While we ate, there were high cirrus clouds that were lit up in flourescent colours as the sun went down and the square was just a great place to eat and visually drink in the place. Many of the towers and taller buildings also have these small square crannies no more than 4 inches wide on them. They make great swallow nests and you almost wonder if the ancient Sienese were smart enough to practice biological pest control by providing roosts. These crannies are probably just left overs of the construction process. One also wonders if the color Siena is named after this place and its dusty reddish bricks.