Main courses, unlike so many restaurants in the world, are the most dramatic. As a plain dish the simple much marinated Solomillo de cordero - Flash grilled lamb sirloin, is superb in its clean deep flavour and kind texture. Excellent Paella is also available. While mine host is rather keen on all wine made in Ribera del Duero such as Pesquera, Vega Sicilia and the Muruve, which is supposed to go better with the Cochinillo, I think the real bargain is the Faustino V Reserva 1981 at GBP 37, which in the land where only 1993 and 1994 claret is financially achievable is a delight. For the whites the delicious Alvarino Mergadio is the one.
Lunch is the time to go.
There is a set lunch for GBP 10, which is about half of the price of the next best bargain in Hong Kong which is the set lunch at Nicholini s in The Conrad Hotel. That would be followed by a clean orange marinated in brandy or something similar. Dinner will cost around GBP45 a head, which for top quality ingredients, a first class chef and friendly atmosphere, in this city, is a real find. Charles Pelham, Hong Kong, May, 1999. Views or opinions expressed by authors are not necessarily those of the publishers, Clifton Media Associates.