Mr. Hennington, former chef at Deep Ellum Cafe, moved his wood-burning grill to the Hood County seat, southwest of Fort Worth, in early 1999. He says he has no regrets. It's nouveau food in a vintage setting. But not too nouveau, mind you. Everything is made fresh daily, including breads and pastries, and many ingredients are local, from the goat cheese from nearby Dublin to Mr. Hennington's own fresh herbs, tomatoes and peppers.
Highlights are everywhere.
A Texas take on chicken Kiev is a flattened and rolled breast of chicken surrounding goat cheese flavored with buttery tarragon sauce with an anise zing. The wood-grilled salmon with a beurre blanc glaze, resting on a ragout of fennel, sweet peppers and roasted tomato with fresh chervil and chives sprinkled on top, is a lovely song of tastes served with a medley of seasonal vegetables. Tender Australian lamb chops are topped with a creamy wild mushroom sauce flavored with shallots. Sliced mushrooms rest on top of the silky dark brown sauce. This is about as good as it gets.