Coming my way I see the perfect wave I set up and go down the line. I see the lip start to curl over and with a slight pressure on the back foot try to get in. I hear faintly the girls scream, and now I have entered a new realm. The life of barrels. My favorite time of the evening comes when the sun is setting beyond the point and reflects beautAppearing from the depth they arise, with style, confidence and soul.
Dolphins come and take over for a while.
Surfing better than anyone ever will. I see coming toward me on a wave is a dolphin gliding , looking so natural and peacefull. Beautiful images onto the water. I duck dive through the perfect clear lip and open my eyes to see with utter delight the sunset magnified. Absorbing all the dazzling colors into my body I smile with delight.