Shortly after summer dissolved into fall, I found myself thinking of beets, probably because I had to make golden beet risotto for a TV show.
Golden beets have a more subtle taste then red beets, but they are delicate in other ways, too.
They are difficult to grow, and thus can also be hard to find. In the early 1990s, I usually had to drive to Monterey Market in Berkeley to get them, but in mid-September I found them at my first local stop, Oliver's Market in Cotati. The risotto turned out beautifully, and with its flavors still lingering on my palate, I began to search our farmers markets for more beets. I found a bounty. Some will have them through Thanksgiving, or even later.