And now he has a forum that should guarantee him his share of the culinary spotlight. Zealous occupies a space set amid some of the city's notable art galleries and a growing number of high-priced residential developments. Zealous' design, by architect William Leeds, is a cunning little bit of urban renewal that is true to the building's commercial roots, retaining such existing elements as the brick walls, exposed wood rafters and a trio of skylights topping the 18-foot ceiling. Yet for all the eye-candy, Zealous is a warm, tranquil room.
Dominant colors are olive and eggplant, the latter most visible on the cushy, suede-covered chairs.
It's an interesting effect, though a warmer light, rather than the diffused fluorescent glow, would be more appealing. All of this is just background for Taus' masterly cooking, which playfully creates unlikely sounding food partnerships. Veal sweetbreads are perched on a savory beignet with a hint of black pepper, surrounded by slivers of pickled lamb's tongue and a red okra-seasoned demiglace whose characteristic thickness gives the tongue a fleeting sense of richness. As challenging as these combinations may seem, Taus pulls them together with astonishing ease, moderating his flavors so precisely that even the most improbable juxtapositions work seamlessly. Taus' true passion, however, lies in his multi-course degustation menus.