He formerly owned Tramontana and worked as wine manager at The Chaparral Club and as a server at The Mansion on Turtle Creek and other well-known Dallas restaurants. The flavors still sparkle in memory. A hindquarter of duck, cooked in its own fat and juices until fork tender, and shreds of duck breast with caramelized onion reflect all that is wonderful about casual French fare. A creamy dill sauce and capers helped even things out. Salads are fresh, flavorful and imaginative.
Entrees run the traditional range from field to sea.
The scattering of zucchini, beet and carrot colors a plate that might otherwise be dull. Cooked perfectly medium rare, the tuna was as luxurious as it was appealing. The rare meat against the almost bitter sauce was startling and satisfying, even in this steak-saturated town. The skin had toughened from sitting too long, and the breast was stringy. Open-face apple tart with a scoop of ice cream is served warm, so the rich vanilla ice cream melts into the sweet fruit filling and rich butter crust.