He's tired of the fast competition of the city, and appreciates the peaceful atmosphere of Ross. You will, too, as I did, in this little jewel of a trattoria. Michele Anna Jordan lives in Sonoma County and is a free-lance writer, restaurant critic and author of 10 books about food. Dining Out appears twice a month in this section. I almost froze my body off walking the half-block from my car to the restaurant's front door.
Fresco is very much a one-man show.
Franceschini, from a family of Florentine restaurateurs who's done stints in both the back and front of the house at Caf Delle Stelle, did most of the design and remodeling himself. With one assistant, he does all the cooking, makes his own pastas and a couple of desserts. In San Francisco this kind of quality, intensely personal neighborhood restaurant is as common as fog, to my mind one of The City's chief dining attributes. I'll keep my fingers crossed that Fresco sticks around because I think its neighbors will enjoy its cheery ambiance, well-crafted food and quite moderate prices every bit as much as I did. The rolls come slathered with more slivered artichoke hearts in tangy white wine sauce.