T o surf big waves takes a very unique individual. A big wave surfer, is someone who lives quite literally on the edge of life.
Many attributes go into the character of such a person.
Eccentric, esoteric, eclectic, no words can describe the big wave surfer. If you are seriously interested in riding big waves, then you will be joining one of the most exclusive clubs in the world. Owning an eleven foot gun does not get you membership into this club, but you do receive an application. I'd say your first twenty-foot drop could achieve this rare medical phenomenon fairly easily. Big wave surfers go where no other creatures, let alone humans, have ever been.