Yet as design becomes more democratic, moderately priced chains, too, have started recognizing that the look of the plate is as important as what's on it. Olive Garden, for instance, is designing its new eateries in the style of a Tuscan farmhouse, with white stucco walls and bars of handmade Italian ceramic tile. Color is a key way that restaurants manipulate the eating experience. Nicole Chapple, director of the Institute for Color Research in Chicago, says no self-respecting proprietor throws blue paint on the walls, though seafaring chefs are exempted. Color theorists suggest that it triggers the appetite by stimulating the pituitary gland and also makes diners lose their sense of time.
Lighting is another crucial element.
Clever restaurateurs strategically place fixtures and use warm-toned bulbs and shades to make everyone look better. Restaurateurs pay careful attention to that, too. They want enough acoustical padding so that you can hear your dining companion and maybe even four people at the table. But a certain amount of noise is necessary, says Henry Meer, chef-owner of the restaurant City Hall in New York. No one wants to feel they're eating in a morgue.