Going to the patrons rather than asking them to drive into Cambridge made good sense. And Atrium shoppers would surely welcome an alternative to pillow-size hunks of cheesecake. Red Clay looks terrific, with the kind of comfortably plush modernity the Peter Niemitz design group has brought to many Boston restaurants. The unchallenging food reminds you what the primary activity is supposed to be too. Nearly everything served at Red Clay is good.
Few things live in the memory.
It's a perfect shopping break. We want to put on the menu things people really like and will come in and have. What little experimentation takes place, that is, will be relegated to the specials list until a dish becomes a proven crowd pleaser. Lack of choice isn't the problem. I'm not sure what's retro, except possibly the Sputnik shape of the pepper, served on its side and looking as if it might levitate.