And, after a few early fumbles, the kitchen is turning out the brand of vividly-presented New American cooking you find from The Tonic to the Lenox Room. But he's sharp and smart, and lunch is alarmingly delicious. Executive chef Kevin Penner commands the New-Am repertory of roasted fish and fowl. Sauteed softshell crabs vanish quickly from our plates, along with olives and green herb sauce. Mr. Wilpon's turbot at least rivals the best.
Langoustines are exquisite with black truffles and morels.
Grilled loin of Colorado lamb with saffron risotto moves the earth. Della Femina is gearing up for the big time. After Labor Day, watch out. Only beware the second wave. Don't say, like the brass at Pearl Harbor, we weren't warned.