In 1847, the United States laid claim to the region during the Mexican-American War. A band of Hispanic and Pueblo people murdered Charles Bent, the American territorial governor. In retaliation, the Army bombarded the church, killing about 100 people who had taken refuge there. Only the bell tower was restored, a mute reminder of the church's history. The crosses and simple markers in the cemetery bear Spanish surnames and include victims of the 1847 bombardment.
Ladders connect one level to the other, though now there are also conventional doors.
In the old days, people entered rooms through a hole in the roof and, when enemies threatened, they withdrew the ladders. Early in the morning, we found women baking bread in the hornos, or beehive ovens. The ovens are heated by a cedar log fire, then after the logs have burned down, the loaves of bread are put into the oven. We bought delicious dried peach rolls from one of the women, who wore a blanket shawl in the traditional Taos drape. And then it was time to explore in town.