His place in London, when I visited on a Thursday evening, was populated by Irish. Two gangster types sat behind us, fecking this and bloinding that, but having a hell of a time. The menu is a roll call of luxurious kit . The food can be uneven, but its good points far outnumber the bad. The all-Italian wine list is a clever compilation.
Food is all over the place.
The Tontine serves unpretentious dishes that are based on terrific ingredients . Hot radish and salmon dim sum, cardamom broth and sesame scallions was delicately flavoured. Ever since a friend served a slick, black Freudian eel, curled like a muscular whip round the plate, I have been unable to think of them without shuddering. But both the ham and salmon were divine. Given the involvement of Alain Ducasse in the business, I figured that this would be more of a chien chaud.