If you have the type of coach who can sit with you alongside the strip and analyze the fencers in your pool, take advantage of it - at first, you'll find that it doesn't seem to help much, but eventually it will, and much later it will make it possible for you to do it yourself. Next, you'll be able to step on to the strip with some sort of plan specific to certain opponents - sometimes it will work, sometimes not, and you'll have to decide if it's a planning problem or an execution problem. A fencer whose main strategy is to attack must continually look for openings. Remember, you're not going to hit them with your eyes - the openings have to be in respect to your blade and point. The best angulation is delivered with a normal thrust and a movement outward with the hand during the attack - angulation with the hand out at the beginning provides counterattack target to your opponent and too much warning of your intent.
Flicks are difficult to do without opening hand and wrist target to a counterattack.
Remember, however, that attacks to the leg or foot open your arm to counterattacks, and so of limited use against someone who usually counterattacks - a high feint with a drop to low target is more likely to work against fencers who are trying to defend, or who back away but are slow removing that front foot. Analyze, too, the initial reaction of your opponent to your attacks. You may be able to take advantage of this. Remember, however, that in many cases you may want them to actually parry - the contact will often cause a break in their rhythm, and of course for that split second you will know exactly where their blade is. A foil-like feint that evades a parry will often cause them to keep trying to parry, and that may block your disengage, especially if the opponent has earlier foil training.