Business is brisk on this pristine early July afternoon. Ollie Klein III hustles back and forth between the different shops. Earlier this morning he supervised the unloading of a boat crammed with New Jersey lobsters. We serve only the winners. He takes a visitor into the fish market, past a group of young men who huddle over a table at the front end of the market.
Fillet knives flash as they trim piles of ruby red snapper and bluefish.
The offal drops into a square hole in the center of the table. Yards of oysters and shrimp rest on beds of ice, along with salmon, swordfish, tuna, scrod, mahi-mahi, sea scallops and arctic char. If it swims, we got it. A fourth generation, Klein's daughters, probably will enter the business soon too, their father says. Add his baby granddaughter into the mix and that makes five generations.