The area's wildness makes Chikwenya's comforts all the more amazing. The camp's game scouts can't guarantee a lion encounter, but they are smart and work hard. In addition to leading the two daily game drives, they maintain photographic blinds and guide anglers to excellent tiger fishing. Tiger fish are ferocious, toothy creatures that make long, hard runs when hooked. Chikwenya's roomy chalets feature twin beds with mosquito netting and private, roofless bathrooms.
Electricity is generated from dusk to an early lights-out.
The police said I was very lucky. Usually, the armed robbers on Jeppe Street cut their victims before emptying their pockets. They were very quick. I chased the last one around a corner, but he vanished into the colorful, bustling Johannesburg street scene I had wanted to explore. The three undercover policemen driving by saw only me running around the corner.