Hunan Chinatown contradicts that preconception. It's decorated in shades of brown, from the tan quarry tile floor to the softly lit monochromatic artwork. The chairs are well upholstered, the service is dignified, and lest it sound cramped or dull, one wall of beveled mirrors expands the space and adds glitter. Its menu is routine for a Hunan restaurant, but its food is certainly above average. Chicken is moist, sauces and dressings are clean and spicy, vinegary and sweet in proper balance.
Dumplings are fine here.
And as City Lights of China is the place to go in the city for Peking duck, Hunan Chinatown shows its stuff with tea-smoked duck.