The outside world rarely disturbs these mountain villages, adding years to locals' lives, in Dr. Gusieno's view. There is less stress. In their longevity laboratory, researchers have been taking extracts from the greens and other foods consumed by the region's residents, finding some that seem to reduce cholesterol, improve memory and strengthen eyesight. It is certainly true that some factors Westerners think contribute to graceful aging sophisticated hospitals, retirement accounts, cruises, creams and so on are nowhere to be seen in the Talysh Mountains. Simple homesteads are plastered against mountainsides, the spring greening chasing snow drifts to higher elevations.
Electricity is intermittent and food is homemade.
From the provincial center in Lerik, the road traverses hills and gullies until it dwindles into a rocky track, ending in Cayrud, where Fazil Rzayev and his wife, Bodzhi, were born and have reached the ages of 102 and 101, respectively. Bemused by the sudden arrival of the longevity laboratory scientists and others inquiring about the secret of the couple's many years, Mr. Rzayev's explanation, offered in the regional dialect, Talysh, is a simple one. Every food I take is from nature. I am going to live to 110 because I cook for myself and have always worked hard. But he worries about the younger generation as the tentacles of modernity reach even into the high passes of the Caucasus.