These grow into small reddish brown pods, about the size of a miniature squash, that hang from the tree, giving it an odd appearance. But the pods don't bloom overnight. It can take up to five years for a cacao tree to produce its first crop of beans. The pods are cut from the trees with machetes and taken to farms like Reyes', where they are transformed into flavorful little kernels. Though nature dictates the climate for the cacao tree, it's up to farmers like Reyes to bring out the taste and personality of the bean.
Fermentation is the first step.
At first glance, the beans don't look very appetizing. Covered in a white fleshy pulp, they are tossed into wooden stalls in an old adobe building at Reyes' farm, La Concepcion. Here the beans will rest for several days, turned daily to ensure they will acquire an even flavor and aroma. Fermentation helps rid the beans of any acidity and increases their sweetness. It can take from two to six days, depending on the variety of the bean.