These are surroundings that suit an early Wednesday evening dinner as well as a special Saturday night. The same is true of Chef Hirsch's menu. It would be lovely to live nearby and stop in after work for a plate of pasta, while a more elaborate three-course dinner with, say, rack of lamb would make a special occasion. Ms. Hirsch is known for an eclectic style with Asian influences. But she seems perfectly at home with a menu that includes traditional Italian dishes and contemporary Mediterranean creations.
Fresh herbs adorn everything, and there's always a touch of texture contrast.
I wasn't sure the cold and hot, tart and meaty tastes would go together, but they did. A few sweet potato crisps on top are the only other element necessary to make this a satisfying plate. Cooked perfectly to melting medium-rare, it's treated almost like a steak, with creamy risotto and a porcini mushroom broth with flavor that doesn't quit. Fine wine, dessert choices There's an extensive all-Italian wine list that will hold interest if you're a knowledgeable wine drinker, and useful information if you're not. Though only open a month, and crowded even on a weeknight, the restaurant is running smoothly.