The Commercial Appeal is an E.W. Scripps Company newspaper. The restaurant business is filled with hard luck stories and comeback trails. The pots and pans and tandoori oven there are in good hands. What's particularly attractive about the food at Golden India is that you can smell and taste the spices and herbs that provide the complexity and background intensity of the dishes.
Indian music tinkles in the background.
A good place to start a meal is with the crisp vegetable samosas stuffed with mildly spicy peas and potatoes. Tandoori lovers frustrated by the occasionally dry result of that cooking process will be delighted with what emerges from this kitchen. Tandoori chicken is tender and succulent, and so is chicken tikka , pieces of marinated and grilled chicken. Marinated lamb, formed like a sausage, is spicy and flavorful, as are chunks of fish. Vegetarian dishes are uniformly excellent here.