On another spit of land an hour's drive south from the Donegal links is the County Sligo Golf Club, organized by British militia more than a century ago. It is also known as Rosses Point, adjacent to a village by the same name. Some holes, like the short second, ascend from tee to green, providing a panorama at the end of the journey. Still other holes descend, like the commanding par-3 13th, a seaside gem that requires a precise approach to avoid an unscheduled trip to the beach. A heart-thumping climb is necessary to reach the green, but from there most of the course is visible again.
Golfers are dots on the rugged canvas below.
Puffins gather on the lower fairways after a rain, searching for worms. The refurbished clubhouse is modest, staffed by two cheerful golf professionals, a small office staff, a waitress, cook and bartender. Photographs, trophies and wooden plaques attest to the club's heritage. An inside window between the grill and a members-only bar allows the bartender to serve both. It is golf, not massage therapy, uniformed valets or an overbearing wine steward, that is the mission of County Sligo.