It's a must-order. So is the veal chop, plied with Moroccan-style seasonings that gave the chop a spunky crust and both sealed in its juices and added texture to the dish. As a bonus, smoky baba-ghannouj and good pita are served on the side. Chocolate truffles are a universal pleasure, and ones as densely decadent as these shouldn't be forsaken in a debate over their Mediterranean pedigree. While the setting might be somewhat unconventional, what with a small dining area at the entrance giving way to walled booths that lead to another small dining area at the rear, the food is lovable, the service warmly welcoming and the mission of the restaurant accomplished.
Integrity is a beautiful thing.
Andrea Clurfeld is the Press restaurant critic. The Dining Companion appears Sundays. Copyright 1997-1999 IN Jersey. Site design by IN Jersey .