The surfer dives into the white water, turns toward the horizon, and paddles out again. California cool and the art of surfing, an article devoted to the lure, the thrill, the satisfaction of surfing. When I can, I stop to watch the surfers in the water, studying their moves, their gracefulness and their persistence. I couldn't do it. In the first place, I'm impatient.
Instant gratification is too slow.
I admit it. Life's a blur without my glasses, and I just know there are slithery, toothy, scaly creatures under the surface waiting to get me. But I can appreciate. I can enjoy vicariously the thrills even as I watch the blue-lipped surfers paddle out for just one more wave. Santa Cruz is Surf City.