Though nature dictates the climate for the cacao tree, it's up to farmers like Reyes to bring out the taste and personality of the bean. Fermentation is the first step. At first glance, the beans don't look very appetizing. Covered in a white fleshy pulp, they are tossed into wooden stalls in an old adobe building at Reyes' farm, La Concepcion. Here the beans will rest for several days, turned daily to ensure they will acquire an even flavor and aroma.
Fermentation helps rid the beans of any acidity and increases their sweetness.
It can take from two to six days, depending on the variety of the bean. The better the bean, the less time is needed. Criollo beans are fermented in as few as two days. Once the beans lose their bitterness, they are put out to dry. Traditionally this process has been done on large outdoor patios, but Reyes is hoping to infuse more flavor into the beans by using special wooden racks.