But what is most unpalatable about China comes from the top. And as in many parts of the world, the farther you get from government control and urban sprawl, the closer you'll come to experiencing the kinder and more exotic side of China. Beer and water are generally sold on the train. If you've got less time and enough cash, Lanzhou and Kashgar are accessible by plane. In Xiahe, spend a little more and stay in the temple converted into a hotel at the western end of the city.
Hot water is available everywhere, from the trains to the budget hotels.
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