Tribune photo by John Bartley cute little tie-in. As though to underscore his contention that Mossant is no bistro, Chiappetti begins each meal with a complimentary amuse, perhaps a spoonful of salmon mousseline with white-truffle vinaigrette, or a curl of white anchovy topped with a bit of olive tapenade. Appetizers include a delightful presentation of house-smoked salmon, which is arrayed with bright greens in a tall pile, around which a waiter solemnly decants warm tomato consomm . Escargots arrive appealingly inside a crisped-potato barrel, coddled in an indulgent garlic sabayon sauce. A seared warm foie gras and cold terrine duo provides textbook textures and flavors, and the accompanying toasted brioche bread is drizzled with truffle oil.
Entrees boast inventive presentation and clever accompaniments.
The beef tenderloin takes the essential flavors of tournedos Rossini and recasts them, offering a half-pound slab of filet with a crispy potato gallette and a lovely sauce of foie gras, port wine and cream. Black bass arrives hot and moist under a blanket of salted brandade, with a fish-based bordelaise sauce and a side casserole of tomato, cucumber and fine herbs. The vegetable tagine is no throwaway, obligatory-meatless dish, but a delightful composition of couscous and aromatic vegetables with sweet and peppery undercurrents. The only failure was a tart of goat cheese and lemon curd, and the real problem with that dish was an undercooked tart shell. Mossant's two-level dining space is one of the prettiest around.