Dyeing was done using commercial fabric dyes in a washing machine. You should expect some shrinkage with this technique, and use enough dye for the covering of the gambeson only - the artificial wadding was unscathed by this process. In some contemporary illustrations, like the drawings on the main kit page, the quilting appears to radiate back from the front top edge, initially parallel to the centre join and ending up at a steeper angle over the ears. Recently, having lost this coif somewhere or other, I've been forced to make a new padded coif, and I took the opportunity to follow that pattern. This is being of light brown, pure linen, and was hand-stitched using wool and linen threads.
Linen threads for the cloth, hems and joints, wool for the quilting.
And it looks good too. The new gambeson is slightly longer than the above one, to go with my new, proper-length hauberk, and it has an undagged lower edge, along with a tightish integral collar, with a lacing up the side of the neck. The collar provides protection for the neck under the hauberk, and it doesn't interfere with my use of a heaume. It's also good at keeping the sweat off the mail, though I am finding my hauberk rusting at the neck.