The capital, Hanoi, a city of one million, still retains much of its charm, especially in the Old Quarter. Low-rise buildings, rarely taller than three stories, are jammed together along narrow, winding streets. Early in the morning, the streets are so calm you can hear birds singing from cages hanging in the trees. By 8 am, under the shady trees of the Old Quarter, the streets are filled to capacity. Motorcycles are everywhere, weaving, accelerating, and swerving within a hair's breadth.
Makeshift restaurants line the sidewalks.
Kids play soccer, weaving around the pedestrians. Like cruise missiles, peddlers hone in on tourists, trying to sell postcards or army-green pith helmets. This unique Vietnamese vehicle, custom-made in small shops around the country, is a popular mode of transportation for tourists and locals alike. And when required, a cyclo can easily transport heavy freight. So the government has begun banning them from certain streets during certain hours.