Rating Alsace Vintages 1988-1998 . Although similar in overall quality to the successful 1997 vintage, the wines from 1998 show a different profile. Slimmer in body, brighter in acidity, structurally more delicate compared with the broad, powerful '97s, the current crop also offers some botrytis-affected wines, a rare commodity in the previous two years. More than 140 new releases from this northeastern corner of France were tasted blind in Wine Spectator 's New York office recently, including 68 1998s, almost as many '97s, and a smattering of dry and late-harvest wines from 1996 and earlier.
French regulations permit nine grape varieties in Alsace, eight of which are white.
Pinot Blanc ranges from light and crisp to rich and full-bodied, evoking apple and citrus character. Pinot Gris shows breadth and weight, frequently with smoky, nutty overtones. The 1998s possess higher acidity levels than do the 1997s, although '98s' acidity is less than that of either the 1996 or 1995 vintages. This characteristic lends the region's wines, predominantly whites, more focus and a purity of flavor. It also renders the wines compatible with a wide range of cuisines .