You can drive for miles in Kosovo and not see anyone in the lush green land edged with mountains. Blasted by heat, red tile roofs have caved in on charred timbers. Some still smell of smoke and fire. Fields lie fallow. Untended cattle roam at will.
Horses stray onto highways.
Streets echo with emptiness. Much of Djakovica is wrecked, a ghost town. The only sound is the cawing of crows under a gray, gusty sky. Djakovica's scars are many. There was heavy fighting there last year between Serb forces and the rebel Kosovo Liberation Army and another spasm of violence after NATO launched its air war.