It is delightfully rustic and rich, with overtones of wood and nut and earth and wine. The raw tomato fragments on top and the leek nest provide necessary and exciting textural contrast. Desserts are very good, and complicated, but not spectacular, with the possible exception of the intense chocolate truffles. As a restaurant should, Fleur de Lys provides an experience which exceeds what can reasonably be created at home, not least through sheer creative variety of offerings. Because of the volume and diversity of the cuisine, it isn't possible to summarize it effectively, only to give examples.
Every visit is different, and exceptional.
From the March 1998 issue of the Metropolitan.