Our table included a maniacal group of men from Phoenix who make the trek annually, a German computer engineer on a solo trip, and a group of middle-aged women who were high school friends. One of them had been to the ranch on a summer raft trip, but it was so hot then that she had had to hike out in the night. She returned to see what she had missed. Guests also can reserve a sack lunch. Most of the lodge guests arrive and depart by mule.
Lodging is included in the two-day mule trip.
The Phantom Ranch is a group of small stone cottages clustered along Bright Angel Creek where it joins the Colorado River. The creek's gently bubbling water adds to the sweet canyon symphony of rustling cottonwoods and chirping birds. The cottages, designed by Mary E. Jane Cotter, were completed in 1922. Today the cottages also have small space heaters and swamp coolers, a flush toilet in a tiny closet and a small sink with running cold water. The beds have linens.