Take a ticket and hand it over for a messy pastrami sandwich, a cluster of golden fries and a big glass of Anchor Steam and relish surroundings where Emma Goldman might have descanted. A breakfast of champions, sensible sandwiches and down-home desserts keep this Tribeca shack hopping from sunup to sundown. At the adjoining, dimly lit Odessa Cafe, the East Village's younger generation chooses from a limited menu and full bar. Borscht and potato are everyday occurrences, others change daily. Get a quart to go.
French toast is awful but eggs and other standards are fine.
The rice pudding is an inspired cinnamon-enriched creamy masterpiece. Sit at the far end of the counter, close to the short-order cook, for a matchless floor show.