Now Ladenis's daughter Natasha Robinson has gone on to manage the new Incognico, a refreshingly understated place with cozy wood paneling and floors, situated in the West End theaterland. Try scallops and foie gras, osso buco, grilled John Dory with thyme-infused olive oil, and the fantatic rice pudding. The quality, however, is still high, and it's a fun ethnic option in the West End. The best is The Portrait Restaurant, in the National Portrait Gallery, where you sit several floors up looking out over Trafalgar Square and dine on unpretentious modern British dishes. The all-Greek wine list is a winner, and the edgy postal code only heightens the sense of authenticity here.
Essential dishes are home-smoked tandoori salmon, crusted lamb byriani, and chocolate samosas.
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