Its substantial Christian population has always contributed to a relatively libertine air, and its geography means that most people live in close proximity to its 140-mile coastline. Ras Beirut, the heart of the capital, is a nob of land that stretches into the sea, so the breeze is always salty. By 9 on any weekend morning, the rocks below the seafront corniche are already full of groups of boys and men, often in nothing more than bikini bottoms as they begin a day of sunning, rough-housing, fishing and swimming. The last man they see is the one who takes their tickets, a female journalist said. Even male children are barred once they turn 7.
Female lifeguards whistle away boats that stray near ogling range.
I don't like to dance where there are men, but here, we can dance,'' said Ms. Faour, the young woman sunning herself at Ajram. Privacy Information Stay connected to the news that interests you with free e-mail alerts from The New York Times.