The Commercial Appeal Turning to the north off I-40 at Germantown Parkway at night now is like entering an Oz of consumerism, lit with all the panoply of neon that mercantile forces can muster. And where we spend money we also must eat. The restaurant is 14th in a group owned by Volunteer Capital Corp. in Nashville. The wine list features standard but well-chosen selections offered at reasonable prices.
Lighting is subtle and gleams on acres of wood paneling and copper.
Waiters are obviously rigorously trained to be friendly without being overbearing, to be efficient without being brusque, and to find ways of helping diners that seem almost telepathic. For example, coat hooks on the booths are hung so low that they're appropriate for jackets but not long coats. Never fear, though. When we were ready to leave, voila, there she was with my coat. Yes, the waiters tell you their names.