Head to the back, though, where an artful blend of insouciance and polished professionalism defines the dining room. Chef Rene Bajeux adheres to tradition with moules marini re, steak frites, poulet grandmere and duck confit. Side dishes, such as spaetzle, turnip sauerkraut and, if you ask, an order of bacon, are sublime. St. A cute name and logo, publike d cor and heavy emphasis on regional beers might obscure the fact that this is a bona fide restaurant, serving contemporary, casual American fare. Chef Todd Lewis has crafted a menu for many tastes.
Entrees express an all-embracing approach.
633 N. St. Clair St. Chicago is known for superlative steakhouses, and another contender is seeking to sate meat eaters' appetites. The Capital Grille is a unit of a small Providence, R.I.-based chain. As if by unwritten steakhouse rule, shrimp cocktail, crab cakes and lobster are high-end appetizers. Steaks, chops and fresh seafood fill the grill. Side dishes include baked potatoes nearly the size of a football as well as the ubiquitous creamed spinach but also fresh asparagus and roasted mushrooms.