The menu bounces between China and Vietnam, including a representation of dumplings and the namesake item of the owners' other spot, Noodles on 28 in Murray Hill. But instead of the product of some Chinese and soul fusion, we were presented with four compact cylinders of juicy shrimp bundled in bacon and lightly batter fried. Not what we expected, but nonetheless a pleasing match of mildly smoky meat and sweet seafood in a practically greaseless package. Speaking of which, there's plenty for fat-phobes to graze on here, starting with bun , Saigon's answer to pasta salad. It's fresh, but also the definition of bland before a splash of nuoc cham, the subtly piquant blend of fish sauce, vinegar, lime juice and shredded carrot.
Main courses have flavor but tend to be faint-hearted with spices.
The room is welcoming with ivory painted wainscoting, tablecloths and a big mirror etched with a dragon spanning the rear wall. Though a shade too bright for us, the lighting seems perfectly suited to single diners using dinnertime to catch up on reading, unfazed by the relentless ringing of cell phones. The locals here obviously feel right at home, thanks in part to the genial service.