The dishes are tamer than most of the menu. Chinese-American favorites like sweet and sour pork and chicken wings are fresh, if unexciting. Perhaps the best culinary influence the French left on its former colony is an appreciation of fine wine. Indochine's wine list has a long way to go in these terms, however. The offerings are meager, mostly California bottlings that are widely available.
Desserts are mostly American, like a carrot cake that's iced too thickly.
One Vietnamese dessert, a soupy tapioca concoction, was a more fitting close to the meal. Servers, though well-intentioned, are inexperienced and unorganized. The large space seems difficult to navigate, even when there are few customers. I'd like to like Indochine. It makes a brave attempt to fashion new tastes, but so far there's little to be excited about.