Pad thai, unsurprisingly, is not her strongest suit. Her take is fresh and clean-tasting, toothy with shredded cabbage and carrot. But the taste reminds me more of earnest health-food dishes of the '70s. So-so pad thai is legion, its chief sins being gummy noodles or unforgivable blandness. His is capped with a playful slaw, laden with plump shrimp, the tropical tamarind woven delicately with oyster sauce, caramelized sugar and garlic.
Every day is a pad thai day.
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