The enchanting beauty of these mountains inspired the mythical singer Orpheus, said to have tamed the wild beasts here with the heavenly music of his lyre. The mountains stretch 150 miles along Bulgaria's southern border with Greece and Turkey. Still, in spite of five centuries of harsh Ottoman rule, the Muslims and Christians in the Rhodope region enjoy good relations. In the picturesque village of Kovatchevitsa, nestled in the western Rhodope, a couple from Sofia has bought an 18th century house and restored it to its original appearance. Sonya and Stoyan Kapsuzovi treat visitors as their personal guests, or family friends, and say they enjoy having people in their house and exchanging ideas with them.
Guests learn about village customs and enjoy the scenic surroundings.
Elaborate traditional meals are followed by homemade wine and rakya, the Bulgarian plum brandy, and conversations by the fireplace. If you rent a car, the expenses will probably increase twofold. In tourist resorts foreigners are charged special rates for food and lodging that are many times higher than those for Bulgarians. However, if you travel in underdeveloped tourist areas, you are likely to get the normal rates and a congenial welcome. And you will experience the real rhythm of life in the area, which doesn't usually happen from the inside of a tour bus.