Lovers of Tex-Mex will be disappointed. Mexican offerings have an ersatz feel, more Salvadoran than just south of the border, with enchiladas that are barely kissed with sauce and ho-hum chips. If you must, soft tacos with shreds of garlicky chicken or al carbon with strips of beef can be gussied up with guacamole, sour cream, salsa, and hot sauce, but you have to order these on the side. Fortunately, carrot-flecked rice and savory refried beans are a given. Skip the lemonadelike margaritas and wash it all down with a lager from El Salvador, Peru, or Mexico instead.
Desserts are a case in point.
Though flan and arroz con leche are listed, empanada de plantano has been the lone choice every time I've been there. Its name scarcely does it justice. This fried pupusa of rice flour, milk custard, and sweet plantains is far more scrumptious. And by the time you've rolled the last bite in sugar, it doesn't seem to matter that it's the only game in town. 2001 by Washington Magazine Inc.