The stretch of Chicago Avenue west of the Kennedy Expressway threads through a neighborhood in the midst of rebirth. From Milwaukee Avenue to Western Avenue, shuttered storefronts are opening again, this time as boutiques, art galleries, bars and restaurants. The once-vacant corner building on Chicago and Throop Street, across from Eckhart Park, came to life briefly a few years ago as Demi Mezzo , a trattoria that enjoyed neighborhood acclaim but little longevity. The space now is home to Isabel's, a new Puerto Rican eatery with a savory menu and stunning decor. Dinner music is logically Latin, with an emphasis on contemporary artists who favor aggressive rhythms.
Diners sway in their seats, matching tempos with the movement of fork to mouth.
Appetizers are a strong start to a meal here. The house salad is a simple, lightly dressed combination of lettuce and tomato, but it proved ideally refreshing in that salsa's wake. Entrees fell somewhat short of the expectations set by the appetizers, particularly the chuleta y pastel, a grilled pork chop served with a Puerto Rican tamale, rice and beans. Wrapped with plantain, as opposed to a corn husk, the tamale offers a hearty departure from the familiar Mexican rendition. The pork chop, sadly, was overcooked, undermining what was otherwise a generous, tasty plateful of food.