Joanne Chang grates bitter chocolate over her tiramis . A cheese grater makes shaving chocolate a breeze. I try to balance the offerings so that all diners will find something that appeals to them. But of all the flavors I have to work with, the one that I love the most is coffee.
Coffee is rich without being overwhelming.
Its bitter edge elevates a dessert from one-dimensional sweetness to refined sophistication. And coffee as a flavoring couldn't be easier to use. Adding it to custards, ice creams, cakes, and fillings usually consists of little more than grinding some beans and can even be as easy as opening a jar of instant coffee. Its intense flavor can be added to a dessert in a variety of ways. Whole beans pack the most flavor.