A spouse without an established handicap is welcomed as a playing partner. Tee reservations are advised during summer months, but not a requirement. Brian and Carmel O'Dowd are the proprietors of St. Ernan's House Hotel, which is reached by private causeway. They specialize in antiques and subdued hospitality. A meal in St. Ernans' soft-lit dining room moves quietly and efficiently through courses of Irish vegetables and locally caught seafood.
Herbs are from the chef's garden.
Instead, a spouse may recline by the window with the latest Maeve Binchy novel not yet available in the United States. The green is cradled by two grassy dunes and separated from the tee by a deep, sandy chasm. No. 6, as the sea churns on the other side of an elongated dune. The hole requires more than three well-struck shots into a suddenly roaring wind to reach the unsheltered putting surface. Well it might, and not merely because of the golf.