A buyer expecting conventional peaches for cooking, for which the tang of acidity is crucial, might be dismayed to discover he's purchased blander fruit. But such designations rile those growers who aren't ready to jump on the low-acid bandwagon. But when fruit is picked firm for shipping, low-acid varieties are better. They're adapted to the marketing system that's in place. The changes wrought by fruit breeders began long before Zaiger's work, and in the end I can't fault him for adapting varieties to the American market.
Fruit is grown thousands of miles from consumers, and shelf life and appearance are paramount.
Zaiger himself is well aware of the compromises that commerce has entailed. A lot of sacrifices were made in getting fruit firm enough to be sent around the world. We wanted bigger, redder, and firmer. Now I'm searching for flavor, flavor, flavor. The words echo in my ears as I drive away.