This wealth attracts day boats from other islands and live-aboards, but there is only one resort on Cochinos Grande, which was grandfathered into the reserve. The Diving Fringing reefs start in as little as five feet of water, and there are classic vertical walls from 20 to 100 feet. The most explosive diving is on the seamounts where tiny tropicals mix it up with wandering pelagics. On almost every site, you'll experience the full range of Bay Island diversity. The one dive resort here is a collection of rustic bungalows set in the hills and basin of a beachfront mountain valley on Cochinos Grande.
Diversions Pull up a lounge chair and watch the sunset turn into an incredibly starry sky.
Hike a mountain trail up to the lighthouse for a 360-degree view of the islands, then hike down to visit the Garifuna fishing village. Take a kayak around to one of the small cays for an afternoon of white sand, shady palms and pure solitude.