It is a world of romance, of grandeur, of refined living on an immense scale. It is also a world with a dress code. Casual clothing is acceptable during the day. Khaki and wool pants prevailed on my trip last month. Sweaters, regardless of whether cashmere, wool or cotton, were equally acceptable.
Black tie is optional.
These regulations did not deter my traveling companion. ''It is always better to overdress than to under-dress,'' she informed me. With that in mind, I decided to pack a tuxedo for each night. The trick is to blend style with comfort. For, if anything, the Greenbrier is devoted to the comfort of its guests. Twenty-five U.S. presidents have slept here, the first being James Monroe and the latest Bill Clinton.