Mustardy baby back ribs are moist and succulent, but thick-cut cattleman's ribs are tough and stringy.
Beef brisket is dry and dessicated.
Pork loin has nice smokiness but again is on the dry side. The rolls of paper towels on every table make sense when you're forced to lay down your forks and dig into this chow with your bare hands. All three are served lukewarm. Desserts are made off premises and have that artificiality of color and texture that conjures up memories of junior high school cafeterias. Each arrives ice-cold directly from the fridge after a pit stop for a gratuitous piping of whipped cream.