It's small and homey, warm and lively. The chef owns it and is always in the kitchen. The cuisine is savory, satisfying, delightfully idiosyncratic-but not, strictly speaking, French. T he atmosphere is relaxed and convivial. A fellow at the next table threatened to move to ours if his friends didn't stop teasing him, which struck us all as quite funny.
Good food equals good mood.
B ut you can't just drop in and expect to be fed. The dining room seats 40, and there is no bar area, no lounge, no nook, cranny or alcove to squeeze in more. If you arrive early or late, there is no place to wait. Reserva-tions are obligatory. They'll bring their own wine and beer, and you must, too.