Cozy booths are covered in a brown perforated leather, and the bar stools are comfortable enough that you won't be in any hurry to move on. The view of the Strip, seen through a curtain of steel bead, takes on a mesmerizing, hazy glamour. The surprise is the food. That means a burger or a decent Caesar salad at any hour. Even a bowl of miso soup or a banana split.
Individual pizzas have a bready, California-style crust.
The tomato basil is nice, made with fresh Roma tomatoes and bocconcini, little mozzarella balls that melt into pools of white. There's a raw ahi tuna and wasabi version as well, and for the veggies among us, a green fava bean and tofu rendition. Even the Hollywood chopped salad is fresher and more finely minced than most, dressed in a shrewdly balanced vinaigrette with bits of blue cheese. I'll remember the Standard's burger the next time I emerge hungry from a movie after 10 p.m. This juicy sirloin patty comes with slices of ripe tomato, Dijon mustard in a plastic squirter and a pile of excellent fries, hand cut with the skins on. Another great late-night snack is the Croque Monsieur, here more substantial than the French original, the buttery grilled bread enclosing a double slice of ham and some Gruyere cheese.