At the end of summer, a nectarine chutney accompanied it, along with whipped potatoes, tasting like the vegetable and boasting a fluffy, but not sticky, texture. A lovely ratatouille, each element distinct, came with grilled swordfish, a tour de force for the vegetable world as I find myself remembering the distinctive taste of the medley more than the fish. Chilies rellenos, the spicy stuffed peppers heightened with a salsa verde, or tomatillo sauce, snuggle in next to grilled tuna. It's a satisfying dish with its savory, strong flavors, although on the visit sampled, not as rare as asked for. Grilled tenderloin is perfectly done to order, though, and rich as can be under its blanket of taleggio cheese.
Duck displays another assertive side with a port sauce and sour cherries.
But the prize goes to a venison chop, its meat seared but left very rare. It's fork-tender yet with some texture to it. There's certainly no gaminess, venison being farm-raised these days, but still its individuality shines through, leaner and cleaner on the tongue than beef. The looks of Icarus have been streamlined recently in a handsome, understated way. Maybe that's a small thing.