The market's wrought iron super-structure has, since 1868, sheltered a maze of noisy vendors who hawk fruits, vegetables, beef and freshly caught fish. During the week, everyone from rugged fishermen to princely Uruguayan naval officers converge on the Mercado to chow at the fish stalls and grungy barbecues. For a Mercado nightcap, stop by the Cafe Roldos for a Uruguayan fave, medio y medio, a mixture of wine and champagne. Develop an Obsession for Tea. Street sellers hawk the mate leaf.
Grocery stores sell mate thermoses and mate gourds.
When in Montevideo, do as the relaxed-looking Montevideanos do. And if you get chummy with a Uruguayan, don't be surprised if he offers you a drink from his own straw and gourd. It's a sign of friendship. A Day at the Beach. Ask a Montevideano and they'll tell you to walk up the street.