Big waves frequently wash unwary visitors off rocks along our rugged coastline. Please, respect the power of the ocean and keep a safe distance from it. Since most waves break at an angle to the shoreline, they push water sideways, forming a current that moves parallel to the beach. This is called a lateral current. Generally, the larger the surf is, the stronger the lateral current will be.
Lateral currents can push swimmers or divers downcoast into rocks and other dangerous obstacles.
When lateral currents meet sandbars, large rocks, channels, or fixed obstacles like piers or jetties, the flow of water is diverted seaward, forming a rip current. Current A rip current is a swift current of water which flows from shore out to sea. It is caused by an excess of water accumulating inside the surfline from the incoming wave action. Seeking its own natural level, the water flows back out to sea through the lowest point in the bottom. A strong current is created.