There were remnants of a north swell mixed with a new and very inconsistent west. This closed out a lot of the waves between Pipe and Off the Wall. Still, it was a sight for sore eyes. I jumped in with a guy named Matt, a bodyboarder from the Big Island. It was his first time out at the place, but he showed no tentativeness.
Kids nowadays are fearless.
We bounced between Pipe and Insanities, having the whole stretch to ourselves. Lots of people had a look, but went elsewhere to surf. Conditions deteriorated as the morning progressed, with the winds picking up, and even a bit of rain coming down. But the surf still had some size, though you had to be very selective. On one wave, I was paddling towards shore, going for this nice peak at Aint's.