Cizma is big on game, and his menu offers lots of it. For instance, there is his venison loin, stuffed with blackberries and surrounded by a blackberry-thyme demiglace sauce. The grilled wild boar tenderloin is a bit more assertive, the meat richly gamy. A complex polenta, seasoned with white cheddar cheese, cinnamon and chile, with a compote of nectarines and sundried cranberries alongside, provides the boar with sweet and spicy complements. Both are delectable.
Appetizers are no less enticing.
The crabcakes, studded with sweet corn and plenty of sweet blue crab, get a little kick from the spicy rock shrimp chowder surrounding them. Crisp softshell crabs, placed over an arugula salad with papaya and vidalia onions, evoke memories of summers past. You never know what might be available, but the poppyseed shortbread filled with lemon curd is a nice option, as is the nut-crusted chocolate tart. Ambrosia cobbler, with an array of fruit, coconut and coconut milk under a cobbler blanket, has an appealing retro whimsy. The wine list is nicely varied and thorough.