But today, that eternity can be as short as one small, splendid meal. The method I choose depends on the number of guests, and whether I want to serve a hot or cold entree. All three are delectable and visually impressive. And all of them are practically foolproof. Technically, ham refers to the hind leg of pork, either fresh or cured.
Fresh ham has a delicate flavor that teams well with herbs, onions and garlic.
It takes several hours to cook a fresh ham, but the process doesn't demand much attention from the cook. It's a matter of dousing the meat with lemon juice and wine, then rubbing on the herb mixture before it goes in the oven, then basting it every 30 to 45 minutes with the pan drippings. Fresh ham needs to be ordered in advance from the supermarket or butcher shop. I prefer bone-in cuts, because I think they taste better and because I enjoy having the leftover bone for making soup or bean dishes. I buy either the shank end or butt end of the leg, then top it with one of several glazes.