The combination is sophisticated and balanced. Butternut squash ravioli in a walnut cream sauce with fresh winter herbs is straight out of a northern Italian dream. Meat dishes are equally brilliant. Pork tenderloin is grilled to order and served with a rich, sherry-chestnut sauce, mashed sweet potatoes and vegetables. But the most spectacular of all is the pan-seared lamb loin with a coffee and brown sugar crust.
Desserts are wonderful, too.
Hazelnut napoleon, my favorite, is Asian-influenced with wonton layers bedecking hazelnut cream. The nightly ice cream sandwich special is always inventive. The wine list, not surprisingly, is superb. The wine by the glass list is comprehensive. I invariably start with the Roederer Brut Rose, an Anderson Valley non-vintage sparkling wine that recently rated 92 out of 100 in Wine Spectator Magazine.