The mood, set by low lighting and lots of candles, is romantic. But the designers here brought some hard, modern edges to the earthy walls of the old factory so that the overall effect is postmodern without too much irony. I really love the space. Executive Chef Christopher Brandt has created a terrific menu, even if it taxes the fat-free diner. Fall's arrival should mean lots of root vegetables on our city's menus.
Entrees are creative without fussiness.
The distant echo of Middle-Eastern flavors is really quite brilliant. If it's been a while since you've dined here, it's time to go back. Brandt and sous chef Todd Mussman are cooking with subtlety and invention. 668 Highland Ave. Rose D'Agostino and I recently dined very well there.