We had turned our attention north to Labrador when Gene Manion, a veteran bush pilot, stopped us in our tracks. Manion would not countenance our leaving until we had canoed the Great Northern Peninsula's Main River. Only 34 miles from headwaters to sea, Gene's favourite river was too inconspicuous on maps to have been noticed in Ottawa. The Main turned out to be Newfoundland's true wilderness gem. Watershed barrens ideal for hiking, offering wild rhododendrons and extensive views.
Headwater lakes and river have famous fly fishing.
Descent of 12 mile canyon extremely challenging, but water warm. Twenty-eight years later, I have travelled throughout Canada but found no place of similar diversity and unspoiled beauty within such a small watershed. The Main is now recognized as one of North America's great canoeing rivers. We emerged from its canyon drenched, bitten and bruised, but a few rounds of Newfie Screech quickly renewed our spirits. The aftermath delayed only slightly our enthusiastic recommendation that Parks Canada encourage the Newfoundland government to preserve the entire drainage.