Approaching Chincoteague Island east on Route 175, we were bombarded by billboards. They are places of beauty where wildlife is protected and even the sweetest-talking developers are banned. The most popular and diverse nature trail is the 3.2-mile wildlife loop, which includes a freshwater marsh and woodlands. It's open to walkers, bicyclists and, from 3 p.m. until dark, cars. You can also just stroll along the ocean beach, swim or sunbathe.
Legend has it the ponies came from a wrecked Spanish ship.
Refuge officials think it's more likely early settlers hid horses on the islands to avoid paying taxes on them. Just bad luck, we were told. The observation deck on the 1.6-mile woodland trail is a good place to look. On summer weekends, parking lots fill up early. At least six places in Chincoteague rent bikes.