Accented with a nutty cumin lilt, its tender sweetness is a revelation. Alas, it comes with a pointless and distracting salad of greens and onion that is inflicted on three other dishes we've tried. Roast whole monkfish, perfectly filleted, is firm as Dover sole and suffused in a fervent mustard-rub embrace. Sea bass wrapped in curry leaves skillfully sets coconut crusting against tomato-cilantro rice with nuts and grains. The spices sing out loud and bold in buttery tandoori chicken, embraced in a saffron-masala glow.
Appetizers are another story.
The music of Indian cookery, hot or mild, lies in spices that build on one another like chords. But on recent nights, it seemed the band had never played together before. It looks like a playful stab at Mexican-Indian fusion. But there's no flavor differentiation, and all that comes through is numbing heat. The leaden samosa with it doesn't help.