But they're coated with a terrific, light, greaseless batter and have been fried so quickly that they are utterly juicy. And while the gumbo is in need of seasoning, it's packed generously with seafood. The vegetables are so delicious that you might make a meal of them. The macaroni and cheese is actually pasta shells, clinging to each other in a great cheesy ooze. Home fries are crisp and brown at the edges, soft and moist where they aren't crisp, and veined with caramelized onions.
Greens have that essential, basic cooked-greens taste with no bitterness.
And if you get the eggy, pickle-spiked potato salad the day it's made, it's memorable. This is a cozy, homey place that takes its time and can't be rushed. Everything is prepared to order. And there's the TV to keep you entertained while it is.