Walking is the best bet. If the steep walk between Upper Town and Lower Town doesn't seem appealing, you can take a shuttle from the Place d'Armes to Place Royale. You'll probably want to drive to National Battlefields Park unless you're feeling energetic, as the interpretation center is about a half-hour walk from the city's Saint Louis Gate. The park is open daily mid-May through September 1. Open Tuesday-Sunday the rest of the year.
Every second show is in English.
Les Tours Adlard , 692-2358, offers walking tours of the old city. It's easier to find a hotel room in the balmy summer months than in the fall when the city is crowded with buses of leaf peepers, or during the phenomenally popular Winter Carnival. Other guests have included Queen Elizabeth, Alfred Hitchcock and dozens of other notables. Even if you don't stay here, take the one-hour guided tour. Not all rooms have a full private bath and there's no elevator, but some rooms have fireplaces, and the buttery croissants delivered fresh to your room each morning are superb.