Based on tastings at Vinexpo, I gave the edge to 1986 for Burgundies and 1995 for Bordeaux, and shoppers would do well to stock up since they are the best since 1990. The south of France, especially Languedoc and Rousillon, seems to the be new promised land for lower-priced wine. The company that owns Chateau Mouton Rothschild is marketing a new line of varietal wines such as Chardonnay and Syrah from there, and Robert Mondavi said he wants to invest in a big way - millions of cases. Champagne producers are trying to convince us to drink their bubbly throughout our meals. Pommery has come out with a new non-vintage called Apanage that is slightly heavier and has more Chardonnay grapes.
German wine continues to have trouble in a market where customers shy away from anything but dry.
Yet the best German wines I tasted at the show were auseleses and beerenausleses going back to 1959. The German cause wasn't helped by a disappointing tasting of icewines. The best was a 1996 Kiedricher Wasseros Riesling from Robert Weil. Written by Michael Broadbent and Hubrecht Duijker, it will be published in Canada by Elan Press. One trend evident at the show is not new.