The red wine vinaigrette that was supposed to be included probably wouldn't have facilitated matters, but at least it would have dressed the naked asparagus and perhaps impressed the palate more. The seafood in particular is stellar, none more so than Chilean sea bass. This fish enjoys fadlike status and often is served moist and flaky, but the treatment here is revelatory in its ability to surpass the rest. Florida snapper was equally mouthwatering, grilled over fennel branches and served in a poisson nage , a light seafood sauce finished with tomato, saffron, and butter. Short ribs were less successful, mainly because anticipated Thai chilis added little in the way of piquancy.
Desserts sound a lot better than they taste.
It was reminiscent of cheap ice cream, though not as sweet. A special one night, banana dumplings, featured a quartet of slightly greasy fried dough balls with a smidgen of banana in each, along with a portion of coconut ice cream barely larger than the free samples coaxed out of ice cream shops before one decides which flavor to choose. If not for rules of decorum, I could've popped the whole thing in my mouth and consumed it in one gluttonous gulp. Yet while the menu is solidly conceptualized and the execution nearly faultless, just a few dishes drew the oohs and aahs that come about when flavors bravely soar into higher territory than even the loftiest of expectations. If she were to let loose and allow her cooking to be as bold as the drink prices, this could become one of the very best restaurants in town.