All are within three hours of Venice, Florence, and each other. Milan is the Italy of the '90s. Thanks in part to Milan, Italy's per-capita income is higher than Britain's. As the saying goes, for every church in Rome, there's a bank in Milan. From publicists to pasta power lunches, Milan is Italy's industrial, banking, TV, publishing, convention, and fashion capital.
Cigarettes are still chic, and even the cheese is gift-wrapped.
Milan's cathedral, the city's centerpiece, is the third largest church in Europe. Hike up to the rooftop, a fancy crown of spires with great views of the city, the square, and on clear days, even the Swiss Alps. The cathedral square, Piazza Duomo, is a classic European scene. Professionals scurry, label-conscious kids loiter, young thieves peruse. For good luck, locals step on the testicles of the mosaic Taurus on the floor's zodiac design.