Surf was small, but a lot better than I expected. Made the rotation, but landed in the whitewater, drinking some in the process. But again I couldn t turn myself around, and ended up digging a rail and wiping out. Yelled out to no one in particular for again failing, then smiled to myself at the silliness of it all. As I paddled back out, I realized that maybe I am more of a Kagawa than I thought.
Life is short.