Islanders have voted down plans to build high-rise resorts here. The Molokai Ranch, on the arid west end of the island, is the second-biggest cattle ranch in the state. But there are some things you won't see. The Kalaupapa Settlement, one of the earliest leper colonies in the Western Hemisphere and now a National Historical Park, can only be reached by a rocky two-hour hike or by mule. Here, at the base of an enormous cliff, Hawaii's King Kamehameha in 1865 established the colony, where sufferers from all the islands were banished.
Campsites are accessible, and some are even free.
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