Donna Nordin insists the appeal of corn risotto, a comforting cross of corn pudding and creamy risotto, is simplicity. The chef-owner of Cafe Terra Cotta in Tucson, Ariz., reports that customers often order the side dish as an entree. Customers love them. To stretch palates, he explores other starches. Introducing sweet potato gratin, an accompaniment to Creole spiced pork loin, was a risk.
Familiar foods trigger a memory.
When I introduced the gratin, customers immediately thought of marshmallows. I had to convince them otherwise. That dose of education pays off. Markey's next menu will feature a sweet potato salad with sherry vinaigrette. Do the familiar but with subtle complexity, according to Peter Dunmire, executive chef of Rouge 98 in Philadelphia.