From the bottom of the descent ramp make a wide bridge over the watery chasm to large ledges. Climb easily left, then right, onto a large square ledge above the chasm and below the steeply overhanging right edge of the crag. Use a piton aid to become established on the next ledge, then hand traverse right and pull up onto an easy groove, and climb this to a roof. Hand traverse left round the arete onto the main face. Good belays but poor stance in the quartz bands just below the triangular niche.
Great care is needed with rope-work to avoid restrictive drag.
Traverse delicately left and step down awkwardly onto sloping ledges below a slim corner, and finish up this. Very poor protection. The route follows the line of the prominent steeply overhanging black groove in the buttress high on the hillside, above and right of the Magic Roundabout Wall. The line cannot be seen from the South but is very prominent when viewed from the North. Some rather bad rock still remains and care is needed.