Every bite gives a light, quick hit of flavor-just what Bradley's food gives at its best, and far different from the persistent, unsubtle flavors typical of Bricco's neighbors. Bricco looks terrific. It's a marvelously relaxed connection to a lively neighborhood, and somehow manages to make the Big Dig seem miles, not yards, away. The upstairs room is particularly well suited to celebratory dinners. Perhaps Bradley should take advantage of being in the one Boston neighborhood with at least two mozzarella-making pros.
First courses are substantial and surer.
I wanted to order the dish again right away. The texture of the trout and the consistency of the risotto are worth emphasizing, because they're examples of the small and crucial aspects few chefs pay enough attention to. I'll happily wait for the pasta to get tenderer. Fresh, simple, right flavors like this make me wonder where other Boston chefs have been. Maybe not enough in northern California.