Meanwhile, Jaffna struggles to recover from the devastation of war. Six out of ten buildings have been completely or partially destroyed in the countless battles. Electricity has been restored, but for just four hours a day. Only 10 telephone lines operate out of the city. The wait to make a call to the south or overseas can be as long as a day.
Dusk gathers over the peninsula.
Silhouetted against the flame-colored sky are the tall, dark palmyra palms. As the shadows lengthen, it is time for the week-long homage to the god Murugan at Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil to reach its climax. It is the first time in seven years that the Hindu temple has been able to celebrate in style, and devotees are out in force. The women are decked in their best saris, looking like bright jewels scattered among barechested men. The atmosphere is relaxed and festive.