I suppose we could put these culinary paradigm shifts down to cultural rejection. The one in North Carolina hungers for a stabler family than her alcoholic father provided. And the best way to kill it is to starve it to death, to cut the food chain that binds them to it. But I think this goes beyond shifting cultural patterns. I think we serve up our souls to one another, pass them around the table as baldly as John the Baptist's head on its platter.
Food is the one inescapable sacrament, even for apostates.
But each in her own way is ladling out her creed, her dogma, her deepest held beliefs to those around her table. To order back issues, click here .