The sim is a perfect example of the Luang Prabang-style, with its low, sweeping roofs in complex overlapping sections. For years the caves, which locals believe to be the home of guardian spirits, were inhabited by monks. The king visited them every new year and stayed at Pat Ou village, where there is a royal wat with beautiful old murals on the front gable. The caves are one of the main venues for Pimai in April, when hundreds make the pilgrimage upriver from Luang Prabang. During the dry season the river shrinks exposing huge sandbanks, which are improbable gold fields.
Families camp out on the banks of the Mekong and pan for gold, most of which is sold to Thailand.
The 100-odd families in Ban Phanom are members of the Lu minority who originated from Yunan in S China. They were traditionally the king's weavers, soldiers and palace servants. Women can distinguish themselves through excellence in weaving - a good weaver never has much problem finding a husband. Different ethnic groups have different styles of weaving, usually in strong, bold colors with striped patterns. Many of the northern groups embroider cloth, similar to some of the northern Thai tribal fabrics.