This has been going on for years, but it's been years since I've been back. The room is pretty much unchanged. Its best feature is the large windows all around, especially those that look out into the trees that grow up from the steep hillside banks. As you enter, the rustic theme is repeated on the walls, which are painted with garlands of ivy. Green swag drapery hangs at the windows, helping to block the view of Fourth Street from the front windows.
Hot jazz plays softly from the sound system.
In the center of the room is the chef's area, surrounded by a high partition. White linens and small vases of fresh carnations decorate the dozen tables set snugly in the small room. As soon as you sit down, a basket of good, eggy, floured bread is brought, along with butter. There's no menu to hold, but the night's fare is written on two boards, one at either end of the room. And the waiter adds a few specials to whatever's on the boards.