I had to hide in a cathedral to cool off. He insists the weather is too hot for beer, but I don't see how that is possible, and anyhow I'm addicted to Pelforth, a very nice breton brune beer. It is perfectly accompanied by a plate of cheese. These little bite sized hand-made goat cheeses are perfect with the gamay, and are light enough to eat despite the heat. I'm reading M.F.K. Fisher , who is the perfect person to read if you are in France.
History is a heavy presence here.
The area reminds me strongly of Iowa, in that it's hot as hell in the summer, full of cows and farmers and mosquitoes. Everyone stares at you, knowing you are not of the village and curious, wondering if you are the first tourist of the season, or a new member of the tribe. Philippe tells me there used to be lot more vineyards in this area. His father's potterie has huge cellars under it containing desiccated old barrels that used to hold wine. Proof of the place's former life.