But it's so traditional in Persian dining that Azita Bina-Seibel cannot fathom her restaurant without it. It's expensive to make and not worth the labor,'' says the chef-owner. Yet, it's addictive and once new customers learn how to eat it, they're hooked. She varies basil, mint and tarragon with parsley, cilantro and chives. Drizzled with lemon-lime vinaigrette, the salad or assortment of vegetables is eaten in various ways.
Every Persian cook has a variation of the salad and how or when to eat it.
It's a grazer's delight,'' says Bina-Seibel. Some roll it in pita or lavosh. Others spread the cheese over bread then arrange herbs on top. Bulgarian feta, similar in texture to cream cheese, is preferred for its spreadability. At Lalah Rokh, the salad ingredients arrive on a platter.