But once I wander in the glassy pavilions of Sydney's Botanical Garden, among incredibly ancient and exotic plant species, I know I must venture farther into this fragile rim of the world where the rainforest thrives alongside the reef. After hopping an early flight north to Cairns, a limo whisks me up to Port Douglas. After checking out my suite, complete with balcony, cushy furnishings and whirlpool, I call Michael Evans, the golf pro. After dashing about Sydney, barely sleeping, jet-lag has set in. The back nine is best at dawn.
Birds fly out early.
Huge fan palms fringe the edge of the golf course fairway. Just then a crocodile slithers his head out of the billabong and yawns. Just don't chase balls in his water. Aiming for the mountains, I drive my ball straight down the fairway, avoiding bunkers on the left and Saltie on the right. This par-5 ends in a fairly flat, slippery green.