It is just very rare and you have to watch out for the nasty urchins. P.S. Don't leave any valuables on the beach they will get pimped. After cold fronts pass, and the wind goes NW, 10-15 ft seas slam down that way. I would imagine that its pretty nasty by that time though. If your going there, Summer time only alows one or two days of surf a week, with two to three week drouts.
Hurricane season pumps some decent swells though.
Woo-hoo surf tomorrow.