Occasionally, I wish for the dazzle. The restaurant is in the refurbished Wyoming firehouse that opened as the Village Green restaurant, then housed the Boston Beanery for about 10 minutes last year. Wyoming provides a peaceful, old-fashioned setting, though inside, Sturkey's is more modernly sparse than the large Victorian houses of the neighborhood. The walls of the large open lobby and the three connected dining rooms are sponge-painted beige. Even multicolored hanging lights, abstract glass sculptures and a stained-glass window in front of the kitchen don't counteract the expanse of neutral color.
Appetizers lean toward upscale.
They're designed for one person and pricey. A small square is seared, creating several textures, crisp to incredibly silky. The chicken is lightly smoked, the sausage not too spicy, and the wrapper is thin and crisp. The neat square of fish is moist underneath its crispy, salty upper crust. It hides a pile of orzo mixed with vegetables.