It's wordplay apropos of the fusion-style cooking served at this spare, open spot in the endlessly hip Bucktown neighborhood. Seared tuna is bold with the taste of wasabi, grilled chicken flaunts fresh basil and chipotles, duck breast pairs with confit and Chinese spices. Two rooms, washed in sunny Proven al colors, dim as the day draws to a close, and by nightfall, flickering candles and soft background music make this a dreamy spot. Durand has good instincts about what constitutes bistro fare. Duck rillettes, buttery escargot and silky chicken liver mousse show up as appetizers.
Main courses are delectably varied.
Co-owner Jamie Durand, Didier's wife, assembled the wine list and is an apt and affable guide to the selections. 329 N. Dearborn St. If it's mojo you want to get working, this is the place. But they recently have arrived in a big way. Three venues serve Southern-style fare.