These swells travel great distances until they strike the shallow coastline and become powerful breaking waves. Big waves frequently wash unwary visitors off rocks along our rugged coastline. Please, repect the power of the ocean and keep a safe distance from it. This is called a littoral current. Generally the larger the surf is, the stronger the littoral current will be.
Littoral currents can push swimmers or divers downcoast into rocks and other dangerous obstacles.
When littoral currents meet sandbars, large rocks, channels, or fixed obstacles like piers or jetties, the flow of water is diverted seaward, forming a rip current. A rip current is a swift current of water which flows from shore out to sea. It is caused by an excess of water accumulating inside the surfline from the incoming wave action. Seeking its own natural level, the water flows back out to sea through the lowest point in the bottom. A strong current is created.