Yet the preparation felt completely at home here. I noticed that the tank was empty by the end of the evening, just as it happens in Cantonese restaurants. Julian Serrano came up with a signature lamb tartare at Masa's that might have sparked the Gingrasses to create one themselves. I haven't tasted better. They were delicious and delicate.
Main dishes are as finely honed as the small ones.
The lamb dish gets an eggplant risotto served from a miniature copper pot. It alone would make me happy. The Gingrasses know the appeal of the side dish. Coraine takes joy in producing obscure and delicious bottles when diners ask for his advice, and watching their surprise at the downright reasonable prices. The waiters are professionals of the highest order.