Sally Clarke, an American raiding the European larder, offers refined yet flavorful food in a serene setting. Zafferano tops the roster of Italian restaurants with its sophisticated Milanese approach. St. John celebrates the pig in all its glory. When a city can support such delightfully idiosyncratic restaurants, there's no doubt that a core food community has become a self-sustaining reality. If it gains weight, it will pull the whole restaurant scene in the right direction.
Manners are always local.
Eating, too, has certain rules that are valuable to know. Restaurants are quite formal in London. At the Connaught Grill, gentlemen may feel more comfortable in a tuxedo than a sports jacket. An early lunch reservation may score a table at even the most popular places, but an early dinner may mean you'll be asked to vacate the table for a second seating. Even though the menus are written in English, don't expect the food to taste like it does at home.