This bazar is not made for tourists or expatriates, and is probably one of the cheapest in Turkey, although the very best quality can hardly be found here. So this is worth an N-th visit of this museum. After the performance and the applause, the politician gets down to business and promises schools, sewers, and more trees to the electorate. So I cross the gate, and am now in the age-old Citadel of Ankara. It's like stepping back a century, except that some of the old Ottoman wooden mansions are now being gentrified and turned into middle-class restaurants with fine views over the city.
Kids play football in the streets, and fly kites off the rampart walls.
I walk around, trying not to get lost this time in the maze of narrow streets, but do every now and then have to backtrack because I entered private backyards. Rhythmic handclapping, dancing, singing.