Mostly, though, vodka's a hit because it lacks a distinguishing quality. A lot of women don't like the taste of liquor. But they do like it cold. Patrons, wearing Russian coats and hats borrowed on the premises, can enter the frosty chamber and sip perfectly cold vodka from their private bottle. That really is the only way to drink it.
Drinkers have their favorite vodkas, and for different reasons.
Some bartenders at Red Square will recommend Belvedere or Wyborowa of Poland simply because they like it the best. Sweden's Absolut and Skyy, a San Francisco vodka that made a controversial name for itself seven years ago by claiming to be so pure it was hangover-free, are premium vodkas that ride largely on hip advertising. Drink's bartenders pour mostly Absolut and Stolichnaya, while Caviarteria serves more Belvedere and Ketel One. But it's no coincidence, especially given the ongoing gentrification of Las Vegas Boulevard, that Red Square's hottest-selling vodka is also its priciest. Part of the appeal is that it's the most expensive vodka.