Such lateral displacements can be manually corrected by laying the frame on its side, placing the foot on the inside of the lower chainstay at the BB and pulling the dropout of the upper side toward the correct position. Monitor position change by measuring dropout spacing. After advancing a few millimeters, put the foot on top of the upper chainstay at the BB and pull the lower dropout until the spacing is correct and repeat the sting measurement. Laterally correcting a front fork is done similarly while monitoring dropout spacing. Here the critical test is whether the bicycle rides no-hands straight, which is relatively easy considering that the only the wheel need be removed to perform the bend.
Forks are best straightened with fixturing but can be done without.
For steel frames, these operations pose no problem if the distortion is within limits that do not peel off paint. Frames with oversized tubes generally make their fatal bends self evident by wrinkling as do downtubes of standard steel frames in head-on collisions.