You need a base first. At Z e, nam pla, the pungent yet indispensable sauce used in Thai cooking marinates squid. The effect is subtle. It works because it boosts the fish flavor and accents the seafood character without overpowering either. The availability and variety of Asian ingredients in the United States is inspiring.
Fresh ginger is considered a staple in many American restaurants.
Lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, wood ear mushrooms and durian, sambals and complex Indian spice blends are creeping into the foodservice vocabulary the way balsamic vinegar and arborio rice did a decade ago. Increasingly, these Asian foods implicate themselves into dishes that have a decidedly American bent. Such largess is a double-edged sword, say Lu and other chefs who have worked in Asia or are immersed in its cooking here. Handled deftly, Asian touches can complement American foods. Without understanding and skill, finesse never develops.