Hard surfaces transform music and conversation into clamorous cacophony.
Fresh-faced servers in long aprons run around a centerpiece communal table, adding to the confusion. The Food Asian accents embellish New American fare. But too often excessive flavors overwhelm fresh, delicate bases. Pungent ginger conceals salt-water earthiness of raw oysters, and salty soy sauce overpowers light and tender Chilean sea bass. Jumbo scallops could skip the wasabi.