While the best remedies involve leaving the city all together, there are a few activities within Budapest that can bring temporary relief. One does not even have to climb above or beyond the reaches of the city smog either. For in Budapest, a convenient alternative lies below. Like the famous thermal spas of Budapest, these caves were also created over many thousands of years by the natural actions of the Earth's heated waters. The mouth to the Pal-volgy Cave opens in a small valley clearing, just off Szepvolgyi Road.
Families regularly enjoy picnicking and playing in the grassy area around the cave's entrance.
There is also a small caf which serves cold, murky coffee from a thermos with cream and sugar squeezed from a metal toothpaste tube. Lounging and relaxing in front of the handful of picnic tables, I found a group of three men undressing from spelunking coveralls, helmets and spotlights. Covered in mud and grime, they had just finished what appeared to be a intense exploration of the caves. At the top of the hour, a guide unlocked the small doorway in the rock face and welcomed my tour group into the cave. Sadly, no cave exploration equipment was provided to us.