The mangrove forests are viewed as swamplands by resort developers, who have chopped away great swaths of the trees in parts of Belize to create golf courses and hotels for the rich and famous. But without the mangroves, there would be no islands, no manatees, fish or wildlife. On the north side of Caye Caulker is a 105-acre forest preserve, a littoral forest that was a coconut grove before Hurricane Hattie in 1961. Here can be found abundant wildlife, some species rarely seen elsewhere. It is the national bird of Belize.
Locals say an occasional crocodile can still be spotted among the mangrove thickets.
It sounded dubious. As proof, they said dogs occasionally disappear in the night. Dogs don't swim for the mainland, so they must provide an occasional midnight snack for crocs. We ate fish every day, and after some snooping, found which restaurants cooked local food and which served tourist junk. For our money, the best food on Caye Caulker was served at Wish Willy.