There are no fancy multi-story hotels or giant dive resorts on Kangaroo Island. I stayed at the comfortable Gum Valley Retreat, a half-dozen cozy rooms clustered around a central court. While there's no night diving or night clubbing, there are plenty of night game walks and singalongs accompanied by the player piano. Meals are taken in the family atmosphere of the common dining room. Our 8 a.m. breakfasts were whole American affairs, cereal, poached eggs, bacon, toast, and coffee.
Fresh produce abounds, and local lamb is exquisite.
Kangaroo Island isn't the Great Barrier Reef, but it was the perfect antidote to a Papua New Guinea trip full of wonderful pelagic and macro diving. I was glad I'd taken. And I'll treasure memories of diving with Jim Thiselton, of sea dragons, blue gropers, and old wives amid the lush underwater gardens of Kangaroo Island. Jim and Josie Thiselton, KIDS, RSD 451, Kingscote SA 5223, Australia. Sealink can arrange bus pickup at Adelaide hotels or use rental car.