Russ later said that it was a pretty frustrating session for him overall. Me, I was doing OK, but not great. Late in the sesh, we swapped boards, and that's when I realized how exceptional my board is. Mid-session, a very small, but bright arc of a rainbow suddenly appeared over Manoa Valley. Well whatever it was, it made me ponder on life.
Life truly is a dynamic thing.
We all have our ups and downs, our good sessions and bad sessions, but it's our passions that define our existence. Anticipation in itself is worth living for. We, as humans, are definitely moved by other people's triumphs and tragedies, but in the end, it's our own experiences that are the most fulfilling. The people that matter to us the most are not celebrities or athletes, but our close friends and family. Surfing has always been a source of strength and inspiration for me.