Though they start arriving in late November, the majority of humpback whales return to the waters off Molokai, Lanai, and Maui between January and March. They can be seen from any of the beaches and lookouts on the East End. At night, you can also spot sharks feeding off Kolo Beach. Apparently they lie low during the day, but you might wish to snorkel elsewhere. There are few restaurants, and even fewer with tablecloths.
Good food is available, however, with enough variety for a few days' stay.
Kualapuu Cook House Farrington Ave. off Hwy. The bean burrito is surprisingly piquant. An island institution that's been baking its famous bread since 1925. The round airy white loaves sell out fast, so you may have to settle for the delicious pineapple or mango loaves. Breakfast here is a local tradition.