There are a few Russian recipes, because in the 1920s Nice had become a haven for Russian emigres, one of whom became a model for Matisse. The recipes are generally well written and easy to follow, though few suggest using food processors. The instructions for cooking onions gently for one and a half hours for the topping, however, are on target. Not allowing for a shortcut gives the onions the proper texture and mellow flavor. As for the five and a half pounds of beans in the pod for a bean salad that serves six, the amount sounds excessive, but it is correct.
Few books offer recipes for fresh shell beans, which are available now through the fall.
The one in this book is worth having. Shell the beans. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large, heavy pot. Add carrots, onions and garlic, and saute over medium-low heat, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until tender. Partly cover pot, and simmer fresh beans about 30 minutes, until they are tender.