Best makeover Twenty Manning turned a drab old space into a chic destination. It faltered at first, but rethinking the acoustics and Mustapha in the kitchen may do the trick. Pretty new digs and the same coffee lacquered duck and beignets that we were missing. A Cape Cod atmosphere is a fitting background for a variety of oysters and that old beloved shrimp and tomato pie. Same clubby room spruced up, but a little more democratic.
Cuisine is spruced up, too, and the caesar salad is the best around.
Quickest fall Even faster than Venus and the Cowboy was the descent of City Grill. And with Albert Paris at the helm and a stunning interior design. Service problems and trouble in the kitchen can perhaps be ironed out, and we hope it will make the comeback column. City Line Ave. Davio's, where the pasta and grilled meats are pleasing but the room is as warm as a banquet hall.