Their Eco tours in Antarctica and the islands of the South Atlantic have made good use of Russia's inability to maintain its fleet of Antarctic research vessels. These ships do not resemble the opulent liners plying the northwest coast of Alaska. They are well-appointed working vessels with comfortable cabins. It was a pleasure to see that no request was too much trouble for these guys. Passenger concerns were resolved with ease and diplomacy.
Deception Island is a truly desolate place.
In the '30s, this was the hub of a whaling industry that was indiscriminately purging the southern oceans of anything that moved. Today, the remnants of that slaughter litter the area. The scene is reminiscent of a Chernobyl disaster. Here, as everywhere else on the continent, the rule is to look, touch with care, but leave everything as you find it. This is a living museum, a monument to the tens of thousands of graceful creatures that were sacrificed.