No person, regardless of residence, lineage, social status or other reason, may lawfully claim the right to a wave. An extract from the proposed Open Waves Act aimed to counteract Surf Rage in California.
Competition is fierce on the California coast for the best wave.
If you thought that road rage, air rage and all derivatives down to trolley rage had been exhausted - think again. This doesn't put off Daniel Duane one bit. He decides that there is still room for one more dude to be caught inside the Californian waves. Leaving the rat race behind, Daniel does what so many dream of doing when he heads for Santa Cruz to surf for a year. His account of time, an evocative blend of wave wisdom and literary, historical and scientific references, moves effortlessly from exploring the physics of the perfect wave to describing the details of surfboard design, to offering pithy descriptions of the surfing characters met along the way.