Creepy, but in a historical way. Also check out Vatican City, Tivoli, and Ostia Antica. In July, check out the outdoor film festivals, where they put up huge screens in piazza around the city. Rome has quite a nightlife, but beware, it is rapidly changing. There's about one caf every half-block in the Rome, ranging in quality, perhaps, but not in the incredible Roman atmosphere.
Discretion is important, particularly in the Holy City.
Despite all this, the gay community is very active in Rome. There are gay bars and gay discos, but the lesbian scene is less available. Rome is notoriously one of the more expensive cities in Europe. Not only is it generally expensive to live there or even visit, but merchants will often hike up the prices when faced with tourists. Rome's primary airport is not in the city proper.