Chopped leaves are lightly sauteed, then tossed with an ethereal cream sauce, a 180-degree opposite in flavor and texture from the heavily sauced, often overcooked versions so often encountered at steak houses. Most of the dishes are assertively flavored and well-executed, although a light dusting of salt better brought out the flavors. Only gyoza proved a failure on one visit, when the dumplings' dough wrapper was gummy and the filling undercooked. The list represents good value. On a recent weekday evening, the bar seemed to be drawing a lively crowd.
Desserts can be huge bargains.
The waitstaff is, without exception, young and enthusiastic, almost what you might expect in an amusement park. The interior of the Walnut Hill location is darker and clubbier than before. An intriguing mix of surreal, whimsical and classical art lends sophistication to what could be plain-chain surroundings. While it's not necessarily a fancy occasion destination, Earls has singular dishes that may create return-trip cravings. Tell us what you think.