I say new, but he took over from Gregory Nicholson about ten months ago, so by now he has had time to get his feet under the table and the menu is now wholly his own creation. It doesn't matter whether you are really keen on wine, or even a bit of a beginner - I seriously recommend that you let Richard Weiss choose wines for you. It was such fun wondering what he would come up with next. You can negotiate with him, and starting from around twenty pounds a head you can have a scintillating array of styles and tastes, just as we did. If you are marking a special anniversary, give Richard a ring when you book your table and he will try to find a vintage corresponding to the year which you are celebrating.
Art is all about choices.
Or Stravinsky's choice of orchestral colours in Firebird. These thoughts flitted through my mind as I contemplated a beautiful arrangement of lobster that looked like a vividly coloured miniature Koi swimming across the plate. The dish was uncluttered in its perfection and I wondered what manner of botch it would have looked if I had attempted to place exactly the same ingredients myself. That's assuming I could even have created them in the first place. I quickly put these thoughts out of my mind, as I destroyed this ephemeral work of art, combining it within my very person through the act of eating.