The sardines still have that essential rich, salty, smoky oiliness, but here their raw, robust flavours are refined and tamed with a sophisticated smoked tomato brioche. Oritalia might just be the most beautiful restaurant in the city. Two levels, a bar and open kitchen downstairs, lots of dark wood and romantic corners, spectacular murals big and brash enough to be in Barcelona, it's particularly seductive on a dark, wet night. And Julian Bond, who honed his cross-cultural cooking skills at Star Anise, is in the kitchen. There are some dishes you shouldn't miss.
Bond can do more with tuna than most Japanese chefs.
At both lunch and dinner, there's tuna tartare on crispy risotto cakes for a starter, a bit like onigiri but much more flavourful with the touch of Italy. Or there's togarashi crustedtuna for a main course, seared rare, with lotus rice packages and horseradish cream. Beautiful restaurant, beautiful food. Southam Digital Inc. All rights reserved.