At C1, we have found nice windless space for two tents. No wind as expected. Sky full of stars. Thin crescent moon. Endless wide snow ledge lead us to the south peak.
Crampons fit well crusted snow on ice.
But once caught by drifting snow ascending speed became slower. A small head lamp had not enough power to find the best route. Just below the south peak, I felt wind on my cheek. Never expected before-break wind. West wind seemed to turn to east after the south peak.