The dish was so good, we woke up thinking about it the next morning. Another time, they were paired with mashed potatoes, and I practically had to wrestle the plate away from my companion, who had never even tried them before. Wood-grilled sea bass is a voluptuous creature with head and tail on. It is meaty, moist and nicely presented with a bouquet of fragrant sage leaves and a slice of bright lemon tucked between the fillets. There are also enticing pastas from which to choose, such as wide ribbons of pappardelle with savory rabbit ragu or a garlic-lover's linguine with baby clams.
Desserts are good here, too.
And when a birthday cake for one table of partiers comes topped with as many tall sparkler candles as it can hold, the little blaze adds to the fun atmosphere. At this rate, Lavagna is poised to become just as popular as its parent restaurant, Le Tableau, up the street. The content of this feature is updated weekly on Wednesdays.