For now, Subido is immersed in Grapes' Mediterranean setting and doing a creditable job overall. There is also a delightful composition of aggressive flavors consisting of moist pork loin medallions with a gently sweet date glaze, over rich Parmesan polenta topped with tart preserved lemons. And Subido's bouillabaisse, offered as an occasional special, is terrific.
Appetizers are inconsistent.
But curry-crusted sea scallops, with mache salad and orange segments set in a sweet vanilla reduction, was a good concept undone by an abundance of salt in the curry mix coating the scallops. Desserts include a soft almond financier with fruit and cinnamon ice cream, and a soft-center brownie with mango sorbet. My chief complaint about Grapes in the old days was that tables were too close together. They're still close, but the trend-spotters have moved on, and minus the overflow crowds, the room is reasonably comfortable. Afghani African Amer.