Entr es are, in fact, less reliable than appetizers. One night I had to leave nearly the whole dish on my plate after taking two bites. Oringer himself told a newspaper reporter that his one indispensable desert-island ingredient is salt. The skin is nearly as crisp as Peking duck's, and the flesh is moist but not undercooked. Pastry chef though Oringer might have been at someone else's restaurant, now that he's boss of his own place he might think of hiring one for himself.
Desserts are fussy in both conception and presentation, and muddled in flavor.
The wine list is eccentric and expensive. Wines by the glass are often a better deal. But there's little point in thinking of economy.