There's nary a misstep in the bunch. Shards of duck deftly bolster the velvety squash soup. A dollop of caviar gives a salty tinge to tender scallops just whispering of the sea. Earthy mushroom hash plays against the beefy vigor of bison, accented by pearl onions saturated in red wine. To be sure, some assemblages seem a little off-key.
Brandied cherries harmonize with wild king salmon, but Swiss chard adds a cacophonous note.
Pastry chef Kristina Bartleson chimes in with some delightful desserts. Her espresso trifle is lush and satiny and almost irresistible. A touch of mint vivifies a huckleberry napoleon in a huckleberry sauce. The wine list concentrates on Washington and Oregon, with supplements from California and France. A good selection of half-bottles increases flexibility in pairing with the tasting menus.