Able to remain poised high on the mountain in poor conditions, our teams often make successful summit bids in small windows of good weather when other teams are out of position. AAI doesn't pretend to guarantee good health, good weather, or success on these expeditions, but it is committed to building strong teams and creating high potential for safe and successful climbs. With regard to expedition processes, we make five to seven camps as we climb alpine style, moving all camps and supplies higher as we go and leaving none established above or below. The night's cold improves conditions under foot, and we still have adequate light because of the extreme northern latitude. Double carries are done during the first part of the climbs to ease the work and to help with acclimatization.
All expeditions begin with a meeting and orientation in Anchorage.
We spend one night there, then travel by van the next morning to the small town of Talkeetna. There we repack our equipment, meet our ski plane pilots, and as soon as possible, make the beautiful flight to the Kahiltna Glacier at 7300 feet. Soon after our arrival and a review of glacier travel procedures, we begin moving to our first camp. We establish our Camp I at 7800 feet at the confluence of the main Kahiltna Glacier and its rugged Northeast Fork, the approach for West Rib and Cassin Expeditions. Enjoying spectacular views the whole way, we continue on to Camp II at 9800 feet and Camp III at 11,200 feet while snowshoeing or skiing up moderate terrain.