The vast family-style space that Mama Grazie's Italian Kitchen occupied in Poplar Plaza from October 1993 to October 1996 has been transformed to an approximation of Japanese opulence. A generously proportioned foyer with a splashing fountain terminates in the restaurant's bar, behind which is the sushi bar. The large dining room features booths and tables separated by wooden partitions topped by intricately designed panels of etched glass, each depicting a scene from Japanese folklore and myth, perhaps, or Kabuki theater or court life. Tabletops are impressively solid granite.
Chairs are ample and comfortable.
Stained glass and painted glass abound, especially on the ceilings. In other words, owner Chian Lung Wen has gone to a great deal of effort and expense to create an attractive atmosphere of opulence and luxury. That, too, is a well-designed and comfortable establishment, though Shogun, it must be said, pushes to the edge of gaudiness a bit. Generally, we liked the appetizers and smaller dishes at Shogun better than dinner items, which tended to be generic. Appetizers, however, tasted fresh and quickly prepared.