But on most evenings, something good is happening. Rushmore, which opened on the corner of Lake and Carpenter Streets last November, kicks out energetic, creative food that's as unabashedly American as, well, Mount Rushmore itself. But considering that this concept's original working title was Gravy, I think the owners made the correct choice. Diver-caught sea scallops, a trio of beauties, line up alongside a hash of celery root and butternut squash, tied together with a brothy cider vinaigrette with a gentle, modulated tartness. But the pot roast is pretty yummy.
Desserts are fun and indulgent and dismissive of caloric impact.
Big Ed's Banana Cake, named for pastry chef Ed Gardner, consists of banana bread topped with bruleed coconut creme, surrounded by a colorful mosaic of kumquat, shaved coconut, clementine segments, passionfruit caramel and bright-green cilantro syrup. The apple streusel pie, with vanilla ice cream and cider sauce, is terrific. The ricotta cheesecake is light-textured and lovely, but the ginger snap cookie it's served over is very nearly impenetrable. And there's an ever-changing assortment of artisan cheeses, served walnut toast and dried fruit. The wine list is carefully chosen and steers clear of the usual suspects, but more effort should be made to bring a few more price-friendly bottles on board.