Lamb might be spit roasted or the shank braised. As in most restaurants, appetizers are more exciting than entrees, even an appetizer as simple as sauteed sweetbreads with spinach. Curried mussels are the plumpest, juiciest of bivalves, in a light yellow, fragrant cream with more of that spinach. And spinach shows up, lightened with ricotta, in homey little ravioli. Alsatian onion tart appears among the appetizers from time to time, as do crab cakes, garlic shrimp and gumbo.
Desserts are homey, often with seasonal fruits, and they can be spectacular.
There's terrific,chewy, crusty bread for mopping up the juices, and the wine list shows an excellent eye at work. All this unfussy sophistication comes at prices substantially below those of the restaurants that are Cashion's peers.