Spindly, with a banner of pewter-colored hair falling down his brown back, Pu always seems to be smiling. Some of the other participants that morning were in moods more political than festive. Speaking often in both Hawaiian and English, burly Polynesian descendants rose to tout a burgeoning movement for self-governance by natives and, echoing complaints you can hear right here in Boulder, to criticize Maui County bureaucracy. But to really see Hana, you've got to experience the natural environment. Hamoa Beach south of town comes closest to a traditional white-sand beach, but it's small.
Currents offshore can be tricky, but the body surfing here is a blast.
Less than a mile north of Hamoa is the local surfing cove at Koki Beach. The beach itself is a small spread of red volcanic cinders, but the enclosed lagoon offers some good snorkeling. See seals, sea turtles North of town at Wainapanapa State Park is the famed black sand beach. Again, it's small, but the cove features lovely blue waters where you may have a close encounter with seals and green sea turtles. The walks along the jagged lava coast here are spectacularly beautiful.