There are still a few hawkers about but they are not as aggressive, except at the beach market. Sanur has an interesting variety of shops with lots of nice restaurants dotted between. The artisans can make practically anything you request from a Garuda to a garden gnome. Huge stores house a variety of all types of intricately designed pieces. The silver filigree work is quite amazing.
Bargaining is necessary.
If you can go off the main road into the village where the artisans work and live you will get better prices. Sukawati has a new art market and a traditional market on the main road and side streets. These include dance costumes, fans, umbrellas and clothes worn at tooth filings and weddings. UBUD Ubud is undisputedly the center of the artistic scene in Bali. It has changed remarkably from the small artist's village it was ten years ago to a bustling center of activity with a wide range of Balinese paintings on offer.