Imagine Grand Central Station decorated for a New Year's Eve party, and you have Nine's look about right. Michael Shrader, a San Francisco chef who has worked at Stars and Farallon, is in charge of the kitchen. He oversees a menu that is short on surprises but executes everything with an unfussy precision. But there are more affordable caviar options, including crispy baked-dough cones filled with various goodies, including egg salad with sevruga caviar, lobster and avocado ceviche, and tuna tartare. A clever stainless-steel holder keeps the cones upright as they're brought to the table.
Desserts are so familiar as to be historic.
There's also strawberry shortcake, highlighted by a thick layer of frozen cr me fraiche that's scorched just prior to serving, giving the dish toasted-marshmallow notes that are pure nostalgia. Given the luxury-level ingredients and glitzy surroundings, Nine's wine list is a pleasant surprise. Nine 440 W. Randolph St. Afghani African Amer.