The tasting menu is a tour of Italy's food-happy regions. Most of the dishes and desserts I sampled at Boleto were ripe with pleasurable flavours. I really enjoyed a grilled squid with warm panzanella salad, nicoise olives and fresh chilis. A grilled halibut with clams, pancetta, caperberries, verdichio and spinach gnocchi didn't feature a perfect halibut, but the spinach gnocchi was light as a puffball. A warm crosta with tallegio, spinach, smoked mozzarella, pinenuts and roast-garlic confit was too heavy on the melted cheese, however.
Desserts are rustic, assertive and addictive.
The wine list isn't deep, but selections are interesting. 8 to 5 p.m. Visa, Mastercard. Southam Digital Inc. All rights reserved.