Hmo is an energy-based statistic equal to four times the standard deviation of the sea surface elevations. Wave height reported from the pressure gauge has been compensated for hydrodynamic attenuation using linear wave theory. Tp is defined as the period associated with the maximum energy in the spectrum. Current data are collected from a Sontek acoustic current meter . Resultant speeds and directions are determined by vector averaging the cross-shore and longshore data.
Current directions indicate the direction that the current is moving towards.
Instruments are located by their latitude and longitude and by their position in the FRF Coordinate System . The origin of this system is the intersection of a shore-parallel baseline with the southern boundary of the FRF property. Deployed instruments are referenced by a Gauge ID number which is unique to a particular location. Read here, about about the data collection and formats.