Little Italy macaroni palaces, along comes the real thing in of all places ultrasuburban Valley Ranch. Chef-owner Peter Raneri moved from New York 14 years ago to get out of the family restaurant business. After a stint in commodities, he's back making some of the freshest-tasting marinara and most garlicky pasta around. The menu includes continental standards such as chateaubriand and Italian traditions like clams casino. But there are also Sicilian delights, such as unforgettable linguine Milanese, pasta in olive oil with hot pepper flakes and garlic lots of garlic topped with bread crumbs and mashed anchovies before a brief stint under the broiler.
Billowy gauze lowers the restaurant's ceiling.
Along with plastic ivy and trellises, the fluffy white fabric makes the place feel like a wedding banquet hall on The Sopranos . The waiters love this place and want you to love it, too. If a waiter recommends something, try it. Nan Coulter Roasted garlic-stuffed beef tenderloin at Lonesome Dove. The Fort Worth Stockyards area is loaded with tourists and restaurants that take dead aim at the cowboy mystique.