I particularly like Jacques Selosse in Avize, south of Epernay. The family firm is today in the hands of a young couple, Anselme and Corinne Selosse, who produce fine, elegant champagnes from their top-rated vineyards in Avize and Cr mant, where the best Chardonnay grapes are grown. They are one of the few producers who age their wines in oak barrels to produce a full, rich, biscuity style of champagne. Another grower to visit is Pierre Gatinois in Ay, on the north bank of the Marne river near Epernay. The care in which he tends his vines to produce complex, distinctive flavors in his wines is impressive.
Champagne production is dominated by the large, familiar international brands.
However, they all have to supplement their harvest by buying grapes or wine from local growers with whom they have long-term contracts. Be adventurous and trust your taste buds. And so, legend has it, sparkling wine was born. While in Epernay, make an appointment with Mo t et Chandon to visit Dom P rignon's Abbey in Hautvilliers. The monks have gone, but the abbey's bucolic stillness is a lovely contrast to the cosmopolitan hype that surrounds champagne today.