First and foremost is Duke Kahanamoku being the patriarch of the modern sport, developing it internationally. The epicenter of the sport is Hawaii and more of us should be cognizant of that. It's being sold locally as well as in surf shops in California, with a second printing planned sooner than he expected. There seems to be a tremendous interest in surf nostalgia, especially those big old boards that are now selling for thousands of dollars. The only thing I can think of is that the Baby Boomers are trying to hang on to their surfing roots.
Boards are now art pieces.
Everyone has a surf story. This little old Filipina lady came up to me at Pearlridge and we had a great time, talking and laughing. What I'd really like to do is a 'Who's Who of Surfing' documenting all the great surfers. Surfing is so full of characters. The original big wave riders were such eccentric group.