It's a disconcerting menu to read, but some of the dishes work very well. The massive, well-trimmed steak arrives on a sizzling platter, and gives off a wonderful aroma, but take my advice and ask that the steak be transferred to another plate. If you don't, the metal platter will continue cooking the meat. Accompaniments include some glazed carrots, which are very good, and creamed spinach, which is merely adequate. Both dishes are served with Chinese broccoli and jasmine rice.
Appetizers are more globe-trotting in nature.
Soup one night included a boring cream of mushroom, but another night a cold borscht soup was delightful. The wine list has some nice bottles and very fair prices, but selection is minimal. There is exactly one chardonnay and only 11 bottles overall. Service is not especially polished, but unfailingly attentive and pleasant. Richie's on Elston is not smoke-free, but it's close.