Recipes have come and gone, cost-cutting measures have been adopted, teachers have retired. Another surprising change is that prices have been raised and are now on a par with many establishments in the neighbourhood. If the kitchen staff is made up of professionals and prices are high, I might as well be dining in a regular restaurant. To wit, no excuses can be made, no slack can be cut. Upon arrival this evening, the Salle Gerard-Delage is almost empty.
Canned music plays loudly in the background.
The tables, framed by mottled mauve walls, are perfectly set, and the twinkling view of St. Denis St. can be seen through the wooden venetian blinds. The dinner menu is short, featuring French nouvelle cuisine with a slight emphasis on Quebec produce. Plate presentations appear to be the priority of this kitchen as our three starters are impressively assembled. If only they tasted as good as they look. A phyllo tart shell is topped with sauteed spinach, breasts of quail and fried leeks.