I also have to make a warm pasta salad at least once a year using a recipe from a Belfast chef that calls for a pound of fusilli, nine ounces of diced smoked salmon and extravagant amounts of chives, finished with a dressing of equal parts olive oil and sour cream with a little lemon juice. And I mix chives with grated cucumber and cream cheese to make a variation on Benedictine, the classic Kentucky spread for Derby parties. Although heat generally saps the personality out of chives, they manage to keep their strength when they re baked in biscuits or a quick bread enriched with Cheddar cheese. And while they are usually chopped or minced, you can toss them whole into green salads to add a breath of fresh onion. If you re lucky enough to find chives with their pink-purple flowers attached, those are even better in salads.
Chives are as ephemeral as a New York spring, though.
They will last three or four days in a loose plastic bag in the refrigerator but should be used as soon as possible after you buy them. One benefit of wallflower status is that it has kept chives where they belong. The trend lately has been toward savory herbs in desserts, but so far I haven t heard of any chefs attempting a chive creme brulee. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water, and set aside.