Initially our path was a one-lane track worn through the grass by feet and hoofs and traffic was light. Closer to Debark, it branched into multiple, parallel red tracks crowded with men and women and mules and children going to and coming from market. One boy is standing in front of me now, smelling his hand. Melanie Ball is a freelance writer who travelled courtesy of Dragoman, Ethiopian Airlines and Thai Airways. Dragoman's 20-night overland adventure, The Hidden Kingdom, visits the Simien Mountains on a loop through Ethiopia's northern highlands from Addis Ababa.
Accommodation is a mix of camping and basic hotels.
Thai Airways International flights from Melbourne link with thrice weekly Ethiopian Airlines departures from Bangkok to Addis Ababa with stopovers of about five hours. Australians travelling to Ethiopia need a visa, available from the Ethiopian consulate in Fitzroy. Vaccination against several diseases is also recommended. The excellent Guide to Ethiopia by Phillip Briggs, a Bradt Publications book, is difficult to find but worth the struggle. The Age Company Ltd 2001.