Everyone in the city has a favorite pho stall and beliefs about what exactly constitutes good pho. There's general agreement that pho requires a rich, steaming broth kept at a low simmer, often for as long as 12 hours. Fresh, thick rice noodles are the other main ingredient, although dried noodles in a packet have made their dismal presence felt. But after the broth and the noodles, the debate begins. The simplest variety of pho has only slices of beef or chicken, while more intricate versions have everything from meatballs to beef tendon to tripe to raw eggs.
Diners add their own fish and chili sauces, garlic pickled in weak vinegar and lime juice.
Sprinkled on top are spring onions, chilis and, in the south, bean sprouts. Handfuls of herbs, such as varieties of mint and basil, give off a powerful scent when they hit the hot broth. North Vietnam may have conquered the South, but southern pho is getting revenge. Traditionally, northern pho, which purists maintain is the original dish, tends to be simpler with a plain broth poured over meat and noodles. Southern pho comes with more embellishments, a spicier soup and more herbs and vegetables, reflecting the better produce in the warmer south.