And shrimp, wrapped around monkfish liver, contrasts clean and earthy tastes and silky and firm textures. The meal ended with a light seafood broth, followed by the only pointless dish in the collection, an ice cream dish that was a concession to Western tastes. The restaurant itself is a long, narrow and very modern space with clean lines and a profusion of beautiful floral arrangements. Waiters patrol the dining room in outfits that look like postmodern samurai uniforms. There's seating for about 40 at elegant wood tables, including a 12-seat communal table, and room for another dozen at the long sushi bar.
Chairs are exceedingly comfortable.
Service is smooth and efficient, but describing dishes is not yet a strong point. And no two waiters explain the live-fish preparation the same way. Then again, there are some details the customers don't want to know. N. Sedgwick St. Phil Vettel is the Tribune restaurant critic.