The broth is lively with cilantro and a touch of Scotch bonnet pepper, and the sea bass is the tastiest I've had in some time. Also impressive is pork adobado, pork tenderloin served in thick pieces, smeared with adobo sauce, which is a chile paste with a touch of cinnamon. The pork rests on a bed of buttery mashed boniato, a Cuban sweet potato whose sweetness plays nicely against the adobo sauce. Roasted chicken Cubano offers no surprises, just good flavor. The chicken pieces are seasoned with garlic and an assertive dash of lemon, served with black bean salsa.
Desserts are a strength.
True chocolate lovers, however, will gravitate toward the chocolate marquise, an intense bittersweet chocolate cake. On another visit, our table's penchant for ordering more appetizers than there were people in our party seemed to confuse the waitress, who wore the look of a running back, not quite up to speed on the playbook, whose quarterback had just called an audible. There's a short list of food-friendly, fairly priced wines, about 16 of which are offered by the glass. The more interesting list is Nacional 27's cocktail selection, which includes caipirinhas from Brazil, mojitos from Cuba and a Peruvian pisco sour, among others. There are more than a half-dozen imported beers from various tropical lands.