And for Americans with cash to burn, eating out is now part of the social fabric. Pricey places have carefully attended to design for years. The Four Seasons in New York, which opened in 1959, was meticulously planned by renowned architect Philip Johnson. Yet as design becomes more democratic, moderately priced chains, too, have started recognizing that the look of the plate is as important as what's on it. Olive Garden, for instance, is designing its new eateries in the style of a Tuscan farmhouse, with white stucco walls and bars of handmade Italian ceramic tile.
Color is a key way that restaurants manipulate the eating experience.
Nicole Chapple, director of the Institute for Color Research in Chicago, says no self-respecting proprietor throws blue paint on the walls, though seafaring chefs are exempted. Color theorists suggest that it triggers the appetite by stimulating the pituitary gland and also makes diners lose their sense of time. Lighting is another crucial element. Clever restaurateurs strategically place fixtures and use warm-toned bulbs and shades to make everyone look better. Restaurateurs pay careful attention to that, too.