Clouds seem at arm's reach. The Indian base camp is at the very start of the glacier, which gently curves upward like a giant white tongue. Barracks, helipads, supply sheds, satellite dishes, a hospital and Hindu shrines are spread across several acres. It is clear the Indians have been here awhile and are ready to stay. The command post is carpeted.
Curtains hang along the windows.
P. C. Katoch, who runs the operation. He hears artillery and shoots. He doesn't know where he's shooting. But being king of the hill is costly. The Pakistanis can resupply most of their posts by road and pack mule.