Fortunately, dissatisfaction with the regime has grown so deep that many Iraqis are now willing to take the risk. The key is getting people alone and out of earshot of the ubiquitous informers. Try visiting hospitals, schools, and souks since doctors, teachers, and shopkeepers all tend to be chatty, and a surprising number speak English. Churches are also a good bet. Female correspondents can try to get around the ban by cloaking themselves in the traditional black Islamic robe nknown as the abayah.
All Western embassies are closed except Norway's.
However, the Vatican representative has been in Baghdad for more than three years and knows about much more than religion. About 120,000 currently live in the country. Many work in hotels and restaurants and have seen a great deal. And, as foreigners, they often feel freer to talk than Iraqis. The U.N., the International Committee of the Red Cross, Medecins sans Frontieres, Catholic Relief Services, and many other Western groups are active in Iraq.