AK47s gained popularity during the 70s and 80s, replacing the traditional spears and bows and arrows. These new weapons have had a profound effect on elephants. Before the ivory trade ban in 1989, rogue Somali bandits known as shifta wreaked havoc on elephant populations. After the collapse of ivory prices induced by the trade ban, these bandits decided to leave the elephants alone and concentrate instead on terrorizing their own kind. Even our crew are not immune to the random violence that can erupt in this part of the country.
Bullets crack through the air as the driver slams the car into reverse and tries to escape.
But their way out is blocked by another bandit and the spray of bullets intensifies. Dudu and the grip don't put up a fight and the shifta grabs the money from their hands and lets them go. I hear the news in Nairobi over a crackly HF radio and drive through record floods to the airport trying to reach my airplane. All of Kenya appears to be covered in rain, but I find a gap in the sky and take off heading north, anxious to reach Samburu. Violent storms around Mount Kenya hide the jagged peaks and thunderous clouds close around me until I am forced to turn back and arrive in Nairobi as dusk slides into night.