We scavenged dozens of light bulbs out of cars from the wreckers behind us, then suspended these little globes inside our wardrobes using a soldered spaghetti of thin electrical wires. The seeds were put in trays on the bottom of the wardrobe and the lights were switched on 24 hours a day. Cops and firemen playing tug-tug over the burnt bush. It put a whole different slant on the term 'mopping up'. The glistening wall of water ahead threatens to overtake.
Balance is critical, as water is sucked up into the wave from the shallowing bowl beneath the board.
Gliding on an edge, deep inside the wave with the sky looking in. Time seems to expand. Awareness peaks, and every detail is cast into memory forever. It is an equilibrium beyond yourself and the ocean. Here we were, at the most distant point from Melbourne on the continent, and Aussie Rules was being played like it was a normal thing to do in the middle of nowhere.