The rollers are for working out air bubbles and to distribute the epoxy. Layup rollers are shaped something like a small paint roller, except the roller is plastic or aluminum and has a grooved surface that allows entrapped air to escape. The hair dryer is probably his favorite tool. With it he can drastically thin the epoxy to improve wetting of the glass and speed up the setting time. Another point he made was that all epoxy layups should be post cured at an elevated temperature.
All epoxies have what's called the glass transition temperature, where it looses it's strength.
They all have a maximum transition temperature, such as 190 degrees Fahrenheit, but the actual temperature that it weakens is only thirty or forty degrees above the temperature the resin was cured at. If it's 60 degrees when you make a wing, the wing will sag when the skin reaches only 90 or 100 degrees. To fix that, after the initial cure is done, Stan post cures the part by heating it to 130-150 degrees for a few hours with the part supported so it doesn't bear any weight. This can be done by painting the part with black tempera and leaving it out in the sun or by putting it in an 'oven' made out of cardboard boxes and a small forced air heater. All in all, I really enjoyed the workshop.