Grilled portobello with caramelized onions is a monster of a sandwich. Meatloaf made from ground veal seems surprisingly light, and mashed potatoes will make you think of Mom. The sleeper of the menu is the smashing penne with smoked chicken. There are main-course salads, including an eggless Caesar and grilled salmon over greens. Not everything thrills.
Desserts can be sloppy, but they usually taste better than they look.
2001 by Washington Magazine Inc.