Our driver guided us through the park, winding us through a magnificent swamp, the remnants of what was a once a malaria-ridden Hula lake. A long wooden bridge meandered above the green slime and three-meter reeds to the huge water reserve, courtesy of the Jordan River. Herons and other majestic beaked creatures strutted regally on the banks, as if to show us their beautiful home. The JNF have since taken over and preserved the historic rock and mortar buildings, one of which houses a restaurant with the best food I've tasted since coming to the country a year ago. Perhaps that's because it wasn't humous for an appetizer, felafel as the main course, and a big shwarma for dessert.
Candles light the crude wooden tables and glazed earthenware carafes and plates.
I chose an entrec te for the next course, which arrived medium well and tender, with roasted potatoes sprinkled with rosemary. My colleague had poached salmon, soft but with just the right consistency. The dessert was not exceptional - pistachio parfait topped with freezer burn, but that made the main course all the more delicious in my memory. I returned exhausted to my bright, simple room. A framed photo of the rushing Jordan waters soothed me to sleep.