The original altar-piece from 1475, once Catholic, now Lutheran, has been returned from the National Museum at Fredriksborg. Hanging from the white arches within is a ship model, a constant presence in all Danish churches since Viking times. Everyone rides a bike, or walks, enough so that alongside every road through the country runs a well-maintained path. The path wanders through woods and fields and sometimes takes off cross-country, away from the highway. On a fine day, bikes, baby carriages, wheelchairs and hikers move along the path.
Bikes carry sleek, managerial types, blue collar nature lovers, old folks, kids and housewives.
The early morning destination in any town is the bakery, full of pastries, rich warm breads of every variety, marzipan delicacies, cakes, tarts, pies, all fresh, all mouth-watering. Danish recipes all seem to start with a pound of fresh butter. Yet obesity is uncommon and the kids have lovely complexions. Out at sea, the only motorized traffic consists of tankers, tugs and the Danish navy. Everyone else uses sail,fishermen included, striking out from the ancient harbor at Gilleleje, North Sealand Island, within sight of Sweden.