In the south west of the island is the historic city of Tainan, the centre of traditional Taiwanese culture. It is famed for its 200 temples which are either Buddhist, Taoist or Confucian. The Cultural Revolution destroyed many temples in mainland China as well as persecuting worshippers, but there are 5,000 temples in Taiwan, most of which remain active places of worship. Whole villages make yearly pilgrimages to some of the oldest monuments, such as the 1,000-year old Taoist temple in Lukang. Almost every hour a new procession reaches the gates and sets off a glorious explosion of firecrackers, music and dancing.
Devotees burn incense and offer gifts, such as fake money or food, to the gods.
In some they also take part in a kind of lucky dip, pulling out a wooden rod at random which tells their fortune. The one I chose told me a pleasant surprise would not be far away. Sure enough, it wasn't long before the prophesy came true. The one thing I had not expected in Taiwan was the spectacular landscapes outside the cities. The island is on the western edge of the Pacific 'rim of fire' where tectonic shifts have created dramatic mountain ranges, rising directly out of the sea, down large parts of the east coast.