Please answer every question on this closed-book exam. The speed at which wave crests and troughs travel.
Celerity changes with wavelength.
Describe the mechanism that accounts for the fact that breakers on a beach tend to run nearly parallel the shore. Explain the meaning of the numerator and denominator in this expression. Describe the difference between semi-diurnal, diurnal and mixed tides. Describe the difference between spring and neap tides. A line indicating the locus of points where the tidal phase is constant, so that when the tide is high at one point on the curve, it will be high at all points on the curve.