Though the volcanoes look like evil twins, they're not. But Concepcion is, indeed, as dangerous as it looks, having exploded more than 20 times in the past century. Some residents of Moyogalpa, understandably, fear their volatile neighbor. Most gringo backpackers in Ometepe, though, in defiance of ancient wisdom, seem to like their volcanoes with a hint of explosive possibility. Before long, most attempt to summit Concepcion.
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The upper reaches of Concepcion, near the crater, are loaded with volcanic ash, making it an especially treacherous scramble. Even independent-minded trekkers are strongly advised to hire a guide. Our guide, a former boxer in the Nicaraguan army who was as modest as a young Muhammad Ali, said he could sprint down Concepcion's crater to its base in 45 minutes. Even without a volcanic sprint, the hike was unforgettable. For one, the volcano has unpredictable weather.