Jeroboam aims to be a neighborhood restaurant in an area without much of a neighborhood, at least at present. Although downtown residences are a hot deal at the moment, there still aren't enough urban dwellers to make this a slam-dunk. So far, chef Garreth Dickey, like Cowboys backup quarterback Randall Cunningham, has exceeded expectations. Jim Anile had been working for months to develop the menu when another job lured him away from Dallas. With about a month before opening, Mr. Dickey, sous-chef at sibling restaurant the Green Room, stepped in to lead the kitchen, with great initial success.
Dishes are undeniably French in conception, execution and flavor.
But this isn't fancy, Franco-dinner food. Bravo for the extra touch of warm towels for hand cleaning after all the finger food on the grande tasting. By the way, all raw bar and cold seafood offerings are available a la carte. This traditional north coast fisherman's soup was generously loaded with shrimp, mussels, cockles, lobster and a white fish fillet in a broth flavored by leeks and thyme. The entreee is especially notable considering the price.