Across from the church was the garden square of Largo da Igreja, and from there it was all downhill to the riverfront. Next to the colonial Idalcaon Palace, which now houses the legislature, is Panaji's most recognized icon, a bronze statue of Goa's favorite native son, Abbe de Faria. The riverfront road was thick with mopeds in what passes innocuously as rush half-hour. Our futile attempts to enter via the bolted front door attracted the attention of a resident priest, who kindly showed us the chapel's treasure, the wooden crucifix from the notorious Inquisition Tribunal in Old Goa. Gastronomic rewards were our lot that night, when we dined at Venite, another well-seasoned 18th century former residence.
Beer is the favorite alcoholic beverage, especially with hot dishes.
We prefer wine, and were surprised by a decent enough Riesling from vineyards in neighboring Maharashtra state. We started with Se Cathedral, the largest church in Asia, begun in 1562 and dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria, on whose feast day Goa was taken from the Muslims. Abutting the cathedral is the Church of St. Francis of Assisi, Old Goa's most enthralling edifice, built in 1661. The elaborate gilded main altar looks across a nave whose floor is covered with the well-worn slate gravestones of Portuguese pioneers. A canary yellow nave led to another magnificent gilded altar, but our eyes were drawn quickly to the chapel to the right that contains the mausoleum of St. Francis Xavier.