Its prices match those found in big cities, too, but the portions and ingredients justify the costs. This is a fancy restaurant, but steps have been taken to keep the place from seeming stuffy. Customers are greeted by crates of apples in the vestibule. Tablecloths are topped with white butcher paper. Wine is served in straight-sided juice glasses.
Bread comes in a paper wrapper.
And the serving staff have tablecloths tied around their waists for aprons. All these trappings, though, belie the elegance of the food. The chefs have a special talent for grilling. It came on a small bed of chopped fennel and tiny French lentils and was topped with crispy onions fried so delicately it wouldn't be fair to call them common onion rings. The thick, juicy chop was butterflied before grilling and served on top of a pool of seared escarole and a sweet sauce made from prunes that worked perfectly with the flavor of the pork.