His ears listen to the steady snick-snick of the pickers. He gathers a bunch in his hands, holds them close to his face and savors their aroma. Then he bites into one and chews slowly, taste buds appraising a kaleidoscope of flavor learned by a lifetime of winemaking. Harvest season in wine country is the time of year that growers and winemakers live for. They have only a few days to make the decision when to gather the grapes, press and process and allow the slow, gentle process of fermentation to begin.
Computers can provide weather predictions and fine measurements of sweetness and acidity.
But winemakers still rely on their instincts and educated palates when they decide it's time to pick. The fall season, with its riot of color in the countryside, is a perfect time to taste the winemaker's art. And more wineries in the West are turning out superb wines. Mention Wine Country ten years ago, and you'd think of California's Napa and Sonoma Valleys. But Oregon is celebrating its third superlative growing season in a row, and Washington's Yakima Valley is gaining a reputation for memorable vintages.