One word I'm keeping an eye out for is antigua - antiques. I am told the Antigua de Mexico here is a branch of the business started in Nogales, Sonora, but much larger - mas grande. We spend a couple of hours wandering in and out of delightful shops, such as La Casa Canela, crammed with beautiful candles, furniture, artwork, screens and rococo treasures. But my favorite place is the Museo Regional de la Ceramica - the Ceramic Museum. Founded in 1954 and housed in a 19th- century mansion, the museum celebrates the handicrafts of the region.
Displays detail the many styles of pottery.
For example, the green pineapple-shaped pieces are from Michoacan, visitors learn. The re-created antique kitchen has an entire wall of mugs, a traditional decoration, arrayed according to size. Look for the selection of antique molinillos, carved wooden stirrers meant to be twirled between the palms in mugs of Mexican hot chocolate. Mexico gave chocolate to the world, and Tlaquepaque is said to be the home of mariachis. Calle Independencia leads to the main plaza, El Parian, built in 1883 by the wealthy Guadalajara weekend residents of yore for summer and weekend balls.