With new owner Bill Kaelin and a real chef, Ed Fair, word is spreading that a great little bistro is trying to get, if you'll pardon the expression, out. The place is gorgeous, hip but swanky, the kind of easy but sophisticated dining you'd expect to find in the East Village. It's got a top-notch sound system and a great juke box. But no thanks. We can't figure out how they got the halved spuds so crispy on the outside and soft inside, draped with cheese and real bacon.
Candlelight diminishes visions of calories dancing in our heads.
Around three nightly specials I could lay bets on. The house ran out of mashed potatoes, so we tried it with fresh cut French fries, an unlikely combo but dramatic and very Pittsburgh. The alfredo sauce is made per order, as good an excuse as any to order a large plate of simple, straight-forward pasta. 4 p.m.-2 a.m., Sun. Fair hones his culinary skills on excursions with his boss to every little nook and cranny in search of raw material.