Nobody goes home protein-deprived from this restaurant. The kind of chef she preferred is hard to find these days, and so is truly slow-cooked barbecue. A positive point was the lack of burnt sauce, showing that the sauce is going on after the heat is applied, in the Nadeau-approved manner. The brisket, likewise, is perfectly good without smoke, as millions of Yankee pot roasts will attest, but it is also potentially one of the juiciest, most satisfying pieces of Texas smoked barbecue. My half chicken was the driest item.
Collards are excellent.
If the dish had been cooked longer, the seafood would have suffered, but the pepper-water would have gone into the rice and made the dish more like jambalaya. The wine list has a few selections that would go with the milder dishes, but the beer list is more important. So not only are all three desserts cheap, but the cheapest is the best. Our waitress, from the South Side of Dublin, was an excellent guide to the menu, and a charming conversationalist on a slow night. If you've seen or read The Commitments , you'll know why she seemed more Cajun than much of the food.