It's just that there's so much going on on the plates that you don't need the distraction. Two crisp croutons of french bread, topped with rare beef, tomato, spinach, mushrooms and rich Boursin cheese. It's a small plate, but one big on flavor. As its juices mix with a wine sauce, it becomes a magnificent gravy for the smashed potatoes on the plate. Roasted and braised, it comes with a sauce laced with currants, which goes well with the potato dish.
Desserts are a bit architectural, but delicious.
Two cubes of brownie are sandwiched around vanilla ice cream, then the whole thing is drenched in a rich ganache. Top it with whipped cream, then eat. The cone of bread pudding sits in a puddle of caramel syrup, accented with ice cream and strips of fried plantain. A sliced banana finishes the plate. It's almost too much, but not quite.