The sophisticated Aventine eatery offers a supremely comfortable decor, with polished cherrywood walls, a copper-framed exhibition kitchen and handsome alabaster chandeliers. And the upscale menu offers many morsels not seen in the typical cow palace. The double Dewars is alive and well here, but most patrons seem to opt for something from the staggering selection of interesting, delicious wines. Beef is the main attraction. The petite filet is exciting, too, as is the 16-ounce veal chop.
All steaks arrive on white-hot plates, still sputtering from a final shower of melted butter.
Seafood, including first-rate swordfish and salmon, is treated well here, too. Barbarella opened early this year with a bang and is still using its winsome combination of good food, reasonable prices and high-energy camaraderie to pack 'em in every night. As befits a neighborhood cafe, the menu includes everything from a terrific burger and savory brisket sandwich to elegant, handmade ravioli and superb Salmon Bordelaise. I love the thin-crust pizzas and the risotto that's always cooked to creamy perfection. And the trendy fritti, lightly battered, deep-fried morsels of zucchini blossoms and green beans, oysters and shrimp, are a great excuse to extend the cocktail hour to two.