Join a cafeteria line to select from a few solid, traditional preparations, and eat your meal at a copper-topped table with young artists to your left and grumpy men with glasses reading Ukrainian newspapers to your right. They seem to be adding branches faster than we can visit them. To be honest, the bread isn't that good. In Richmond Hill, on Bayview, in a shopping mall a half-mile north of Highway 7. Even the duck tongue and chicken feet is superb.
Dinner is good, also, with a reasonably-sized permanent menu augmented by a seasonal booklet.
You will be paying more for the privilege, however. Worth going out of your way for. In the Harbour Castle Hilton, on Harbourfront. This area is a culinary wasteland, and it seemed like a great idea to import Cantonese palace dining. Too many gwailos, however, to motivate the staff.