By now, though, many of Italy's treasured local foods have been replaced on store shelves by mass-produced replicas at popular prices. Perhaps the greatest challenge to authenticity is faced by producers of the traditional balsamic vinegar known officially as Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena and Reggio Emilia. After years of legal battles against imitations, DOP was finally granted to those precious vinegars, which require a minimum of 12 years of aging in barrels of different types of wood. On the positive side, producers of a number of traditional cheeses have won back the right to use fresh milk rather than pasteurized. Producers of Culatello di Zibello DOP are still permitted to cure their prized filets of ham in natural conditions of the damp Po Valley near Parma.
Confusion surrounds the appellations for olive oils.
The problem is that most of Italy's olive oils are blends from sources that often range outside of the country. Burton Anderson, an American who lives in the heart of Tuscany, is recognized as one of the world s foremost writers on Italy and its wines. His books include The Wine Atlas of Italy and Traveller s Guide to the Vineyards, Vino, and The Mitchell Beazley Pocket Guide to Italian Wines. E-mail this story to a friend. View a printer-friendly version of this story.