On balance, I feel more inclined to take the advice of Harry Wu than Clarence Grebey. So, between the big companies that dominate the jeans market, the choice is entirely relative. Among the best is Levi's. But globalized 'cheap' labour and industrial cotton are integral to all of them. Corporate codes of conduct have strict limitations.
Business is business.
The Internet threw up several suppliers of organic-cotton jeans, but they're sold only in North America. Not meant for me. Lovely but not quite perfect - the hemp jeans that come from China. I had also heard rumours that the original jeans were made from hemp, a fibre more usually associated with rope and sacks. Then, through Ethical Consumer magazine, I found the Hemp Union of Hull, and Dick Bye on the other end of a telephone.