Grafton's Classic Reserve Extra Sharp had depth but wasn't as complex as Shelburne's Farmhouse Cheddar. The Shelburne, made from raw milk and cloth-wrapped, could easily have been mistaken for an English farmhouse cheddar with its beefy, smoky flavors. In the kitchen, I found that macaroni and cheese made with the Montgomery cheddar was dramatically better than one made with New York cheddar. The difference was slightly less noticeable in grilled-cheese sandwiches made with Wisconsin cheddar and English farmhouse cheddar. To enliven a cold cheese sandwich, I slathered whole wheat bread with some mango chutney.
Beer is the favorite beverage of cheddar devotees.
I found microbrewed Catamount Amber Ale, from Vermont, the most appealing among several beers because of its fruitiness. Just as good was hard cider, not surprising since apples and cheddar are a natural combo. The more nuanced French or English ciders were especially good with the more complex cheeses. As for wine, I liked a ripe, heady Zinfandel, again because of the lush fruit, which also bodes well for ruby Ports. Sam Gugino, Wine Spectator 's Tastes columnist, is the author of the recently published Cooking to Beat the Clock.