From my perch at the top of the Belem Tower, I reflected on how this staunch symbol of colonialism was gradually, if reluctantly, exposing itself to winds blowing from younger strongholds across the waters. In a few years, I thought, Lisbon will probably be transformed into a London-like multicultural mosaic. But as I watched elderly men bowling on a dusty square and bakers opening their windows, the city seemed to capture the mood of the Old World almost perfectly. Although lacking the grandeur of the Tivoli, located next door, it is a better bargain. The central location, friendly service and complimentary breakfast are all pluses.
Breakfast is included in the rate.
I had a seafood soup prepared with care and a tasty grilled sole with roast potatoes. I had an appetizer of young eels, followed by a rock lobster simmered in champagne. Dried cod and other traditional Portuguese dishes are also available. Service is slow, however, and not as helpful as it could be in educating novices about this very Portuguese pastime.