At Zanzibar's northern tip, tides are gentle but far-reaching. As the turquoise water recedes 2,5km to the coral reef village women appear. The groups scatter, water up to the ankles, until each woman is an isolated speck on the glittering sea. When the warm waters rise, they return, alone, to a meeting point where laughter explodes as they compare their bounty of small fish, clams, shells and seaweed. Then the divers set out on speedboats to seek their bounty.
Coral gardens are nearby.
And half an hour away to the north-east, at the spectacular Mnemba Atoll, exceptional fish and coral life awaits. At 25m visibility, the atoll offers the best wall diving in Zanzibar. The island is a diver's paradise, and Ras Nungwi one of its highest points. On a lucky day, a school of dolphins may appear, and you can swim with them. Best weather is cloudy, since dolphins don't like bright sunshine.