The black market thrived under the Khmer Rouge. The small town of Siem Reap lies 150 miles northwest of Phnom Penh, and about a thousand years behind the new millennium. While hotel construction and computer stores reflect modern times, the one-time capital of Cambodia is the gateway to the ancient Angkor ruins. Angkor Wat, the largest and most famous monument, is just one of 100 or so Hindu and Buddhist temples built during the Khmer empire from the ninth to the 14th centuries. Travelers can visit these sites on their own, though the best bet is to hire an experienced local driver.
Cambodian roads have few if any street signals, and driving is precarious at best.
An organized tour such as ours offered the additional advantage of Mr. Riegel s expertise in weaving though the complex Khmer history and managing the sequence of temples to visit, according to importance. Sanith, our Cambodian guide in Siem Reap, provided personal insights. The four-day itinerary included a visit to 10 smaller temples. Some of the earlier monuments, such as Lolei and Preah Ko, were dedicated to ancestors, Mr. Riegel said. Others were reserved as sacred retreats for the highest members of Khmer society.