Sections of neighboring strands are then bound together using lengths of raffia. The length of each knot seals a section of thread and the pattern of knots forms the intended motif. Each binding is tight enough to resist the dyes into which the threads are placed. In Indonesian and Malay ikat means to knot. Two sets of knots are used to produce the basic three-color design.
All knots resist the initial indigo dye and only unknotted areas become blue.
Opening the second set of knots reveals sections of thread that have received neither dye and will be white in the woven textile. A pure blue is obtained by returning the threads to the warping frame and tying a third set of knots over the indigo work before the red dye process begins. To obtain a light blue this must be done part way through the indigo dying process. In traditional work, only natural dyes are used. Blue and red predominate.