The food is witty, and even those witticisms that fall flat have left me applauding the effort. To start, head right for the biscuits. They are so flaky they practically shatter in your hand, and they have an interesting crunch, presumably from a little cornmeal sifted into the wheat. Entrees are daunting, buried in haystacks of shredded fried vegetables and crowded with accompaniments and garnishes. Rack of lamb and seared fish fillets - they're capably cooked, but would be better with fewer ingredients robbing them of center stage.
Desserts are simpler and more charming.
And if there's a fruit cobbler on the menu, make sure to save room.