Mashed potatoes with brown gravy are a treat, chunky with potato skin and not at all glutinous. Green beans and cabbage retain their flavor and consistency. I'm a fan of the cafe's black-eyed peas, cooked so they keep their body without going mushy, and with seasoning to compliment their character rather than overpower it. The cafe's casseroles are happily comforting, made just the way you expect. Green bean casserole features French-cut strips of bean, caramelized onion rings and crunchy water chestnuts.
Corn pudding is hearty and agreeably sweet.
Squash casserole is cheesy and buttery, with fresh yellow squash and slivers of carrot. The plain is heavy, moist and a bit salty, without sweetness. Creative Loafing Inc. All rights reserved.