The most curious of the Central Asian republics, Turkmenistan resembles an Arab Gulf state without the money. The country is sparsely populated and its people, the Turkmen, are only a generation or two removed from being nomads. Turkmenistan is as much a culture as a country since the Turkmen have never formed a real nation and have allowed their cities to become predominantly populated by other peoples. They place most esteem on a rural life revolving around their famous, traditionally patterned carpets, their ceremonies, hospitality and fleet Akhal-Teke horses. In April the desert blooms briefly and the monotonous ochre landscapes explode in reds, oranges and yellows.
Autumn is harvest time, when market tables heave with freshly picked fruit.
If you do decide to battle the winter, be aware that many domestic flights are grounded and finding food can be a problem since lots of eateries close for the season. Every visitor to Turkmenistan needs to obtain a visa and a letter of invitation before turning up at the border. Failure to have such a letter, or at the very least, a personal statement with an itinerary, is likely to mean that your experience of Turkmenistan will be limited to what you can see as you fly straight back out of there. Don't drink the water even if locals say it's OK to drink. Bring a torch.