The pumpkin is piping hot, the venison lukewarm, and the spaetzl cold. And diver scallops, a special served with kohl rabi in paprika oil, turn so cold they must go back, even though it's after 10 p.m. By now JUdson Grill is undergoing a tidal shift. When the big bivalves return at last, they're fresh specimens, plump, aromatically seared and scrumptious - a dish to die for. But we've waited long, and worked too hard, for the pleasure.
Desserts are marvelous except for a lime mousse that's inedibly tart.
It can't be easy running a restaurant as large and complex as JUdson Grill. The talent needed to deliver professional service day and night is in short supply around town. I'm willing to try them again. But for me, that will be JUdson Grill's last chance. The content of this feature is updated weekly on Wednesdays.