But the kitchen seems left behind. Pappardelle with bits of foie gras is fine. But the texture of foie gras served as a starter with thin apple slices is stringier than goose liver should be in a place this ambitious. Parmigiano-Reggiano breading is all we taste of characterless lamb chops. Diver scallops are missing the creature's sweet-meaty essence.
Desserts are dreadful except for hearty flourless chocolate cake.
Tomorrow to fresh woods, and pastures new. The content of this feature is updated weekly on Wednesdays.