Shoestring fries seem more like a collection of grated bits of potato fried to a crisp. As for service, a bevy of junior managers checks up on tables. On a slow night, the host tries to stick us with the worst table, until we ask for a spot nearer the back of the room. A glassed-in wine cellar showcases double magnums and larger bottles of some of California's most lauded Cabernet Sauvignons. Naturally, the wine list is strong on high-end California Chardonnays and Cabernets.
Desserts seem like afterthoughts and are, for the most part, lackluster.
Pecan pie has far too much filling in proportion to the nuts, but it flaunts a wicked bourbon sauce. An apple blueberry crumble features an underbaked pastry crust, making me wonder if it's supposed to be a cobbler. The staff has worked hard to bring both the front and the back of the house into line, improving instead of sliding back once the thrill of the opening few weeks faded. The kitchen needs to work on those sides, though. It would be a shame if diners ended up retreating back to the realm of the baked potato.