That's not to say the cooking is poor. In fact, it's quite good. But the wine steals the show. The restaurant is suitably convivial and unpretentious, and there's a nice new room in the back for groups of eight or more who want some privacy. Chez Pauline 5 rue Villedo, 1st arr.
Businessmen crowd in every day, mixing with writers and other regulars.
Vernet, 8th arr. Fresh fish and perfect vegetables are the stars of the show, but save room for pastry chef Alain Lecomte's wonderful desserts. Maison Blanche 15 avenue Montaigne, 8th arr. The decor is modern but comfortable and chic, befitting a street with some of Paris' most fashionable boutiques. Although Michelin took away the restaurant's single star two years ago and some dishes are a bit bland, Martinez merits more recognition.