And then move forward again into the 20th century, where writer Noel Coward's adoration of the impeccable pig inspired him to write a tender homage in verse to the beast. So, while American sophisticates continue to flock to steak houses to devour grilled beef, swill martinis, and smoke cigars, I would like to remind gourmands of the cornucopia of vernacular cuisines offered at a number of Austin restaurants. Pork dishes among them, they feature comestibles that reflect hundreds, sometimes thousands, of years of tradition. They come not only from America, but from all over the world. Eating them can be almost a folkloric adventure, especially when a little food history is served alongside.
All great recipes have a story.
This combination of story and history pulls us along on our pilgrimage down the pork trail. Cochinita Pibil at Fonda San Miguel Forget for a moment that this dish represents one of the most harmonious blendings of Native American and Old World foodstuffs. Forget, too, that the inhabitants of the Yucatan have eaten it for feasts, celebrations, and holidays for nearly five centuries. Although in principle the preparation is simple, few restaurants want to take the time or the effort to produce this offbeat interior specialty. To make cochinita pibil, the cook traditionally seasons a pork with achiote, orange or vinegar, herbs, and garlic.