Cabbage is probably one of the most unpopular members of the vegetable kingdom.
Yet as much as people dislike cabbage, nearly everyone enjoys coleslaw. I think what makes coleslaw special is the dressing. The combination of sharp vinegar and lots of sugar in most coleslaw recipes mirrors the American love of intense flavors, preferably sweet. My preference is plain, steamed cabbage with little other adornment but some bits of red hot pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Deli counters today offer a pale imitation of old-fashioned slaw.