The hissing can really get to you. On Copacabana beach men stare, their mouths working on a series of soft jeers and hisses I fail to understand. Vendors traipse between bathers with water, Coca Cola, beads.
Cell phones ring.
The beach smells of surf, sunscreen and marijuana. The waiter hissing to scare them off. Sorry, we say, we weren't going to eat them anyway. We step into spilled sugar, dark corners, hiss for a taxi. Sugar Loaf, Rio de Janeiro.