If cognac is the star of the show, then Spanish brandy is the cartoon. At its best, it s honeyed and layered, rich with the caramel, toffee, coffee and chocolate flavors of the oldest cognac. At its worst, it still has some of those merits. It s a mystery that Spanish brandies haven t been more successful in the United States market, as the value is greater than most comparably priced, well-known American products. The President hardly deserves the proverbial cigar, but it does compare favorably with its price competitors.
Any country producing wine is likely to produce brandy.
Italy s brandies have as much merit, collectively, as Spain s, though they tend to be lighter and milder. But some American brandy producers are clearly performing at the highest levels. Producers such as Germain-Robin and Domaine Chandon are offering deliciously compelling brandies that demand the interest of any knowledgeable cognac lover. These American products do not need to ape the flavors and aromas of cognac to have merit. The best, however, do.