He was right. My mother looked at it and didn't say a word. There are a lot of bruises. The bruising is part of it. I gashed my toe the other day.
Boards flip back into people's faces.
I've seen a few broken noses from that. The longest time I spent in the air was when I came over the top of a wave and was weightless in the air for a few seconds. Like a pilot you have to plan an emergency landing. You have to make sure you're not going to come down on your board. You wake up each day feeling soreness in the shoulders, body aches from paddling, as if you've fallen down from a second story, and in a way you have.