I've had flawlessly sauteed cod, though with a mushy yellow pool of leeks and potatoes, and a roast chicken that was sadly overcooked, though its herbed stuffing lent it a delectable fragrance. Soft-shell crabs, mildly curried, have been crisp and moist. The music careens from Top 40 to jazz. Most important, there are lovely wines to pour into those glasses, ranging well beyond the usual cabernets and chardonnays, and arranged by grape rather than by country. The prices are nearly saintly.
Desserts are neither dazzlers nor mere afterthoughts.
The creme brulee has an eggy and delicate flavor, a slightly too firm texture and a sugar crust that is uneven but painstakingly browned. Tarte au chocolat is like a slice of chocolate mousse, as intense and bittersweet as one could wish, though it was unfathomably served on a very hot plate that started it melting. Warm apple tart is tough and doughy, in need of more apple. Don't think of Vintage as a showcase for Gerard Pangaud. Don't anticipate an homage to a top chef's family cooking.