Oscillations of water surface Occur on all bodies of H2O but are very significant in oceans. The wind transfers some energy to the water to produce waves. Causing the water surface to oscillate. As more wind blows, more waves are formed. Waves differ in size, e.g., during storms, waves are bigger Figure here.
Big waves have greater velocities Big waves can outrun small waves.
As a wave enters shallow water, it becomes oversteepened The wave crest advances faster than wave form. Unconsolidated sediments extending landward from sea. In winter, storm waves have more energy. The same sand that was carried offshore during winter is returned onshore. A SPIT is a continuation of a beach that projects in a body of water.