In the 15 knot wind, the bows of the kayaks slice the waves, shooting a cooling white spray onto our paddling partners seated in front. The facial expression of Epeli s paddling buddy instantly transforms from one of apprehension to delight at the sound of the unexpected outburst. By the third day, a routine is established and everyone pitches in to erect our beach camp on Taunga Island, where we ll spend the next two nights. Epeli and our guests erect tarps and tents. We tie clotheslines to coconut trees and hang life vests, sprayskirts and wet clothes, put the water on to boil and hang fruit and vegetables in mesh bags to air in the trade wind.
All cooking is done on gas stoves.
The occasional camp fire is lit, using dead coconut fronds and husks, either in the intertidal zone or in an existing umu pit which the Tongans use for cooking their underground meals. Every campsite is left cleaner than it is found. As provisions are used up, the space they once occupied in the kayak is replaced with stray items of rubbish discarded by less conscientious visitors. After a refreshing cuppa, Epeli offers to escort the group on foot into an outer island village while explaining, in his perfect English, details of Tonga s customs, flora and fauna. Epeli, Vaikele and Ave, our three indigenous guides, have spent all their lives in Vava u, diving, fishing and tending their crops.