It was these cattle drives after the Civil War that made them realize what sort of boot they needed. When they reached Kansas, with its small boot and shoe shops, the cowboy and the bootmaker slowly created the various types of boots suitable for cowboy work and attractive to cowboy vanity. Made in the Kansas town of the same name, the boot drew its inspiration from the English Wellington and U. S. Cavalry footwear. Large mule-ear bootstraps aided a man in pulling them on. The name well describes the shape of these leather pull straps stitched to the outside tops of the boots.
Cowboy fashion changes albeit slowly and modestly.
Heels got higher, reaching as high as four inches or so. Most cowboys favored the latter, because the sharp edges on box-toed boots wore out more quickly. Many cowboys bought new clothes when they reached the end of the trail. Many also purchased new boots. The Texans seem to have preferred custom-made boots.