The Route The south face of Cho Oyu, facing Nepal, is quite steep and difficult, and is rarely climbed. The north side of the mountain, accessed from Tibet, is more moderate, and there is a relatively safe route to the summit. Before I went to Cho Oyu in 1995, only nine Americans had reached the summit. That year, our team put 13 more Americans and two Sherpas on the top. The spring season starts during cold, windy March and April, but the weather becomes warmer and calmer by mid-May.
Autumn is the opposite.
One needs solid crampon skills and be able to rappel wearing a full pack. Part of the route involves jumaring on fixed ropes. There is a short, steep section of nearly vertical ice on the spectacular ridge between Camp 1 and Camp 2 that requires front-pointing skills. Most importantly, climbers need good common sense and the ability to learn and adapt to quickly-changing conditions. Since the mid 1990s, Cho Oyu has become the most popular 8000-meter peak.