The Serb army had just departed. And the Kosovars who had not fled to Albania and Macedonia during the war were just starting to peek their heads out of their houses after being cooped up for most of the 78-day war. We sat down in front of the main Orthodox Church near the central square and ate breakfast we had brought from Kukes. What I remember most about that time is the stillness. That has all changed in the past 12 months.
Cars crowd the streets.
It's almost impossible to find a parking place along the narrow, old streets. The main square is full day and night. Trucks and tanks rumble through the streets nonstop. The shops and stores, on that day empty and unused, are full to overflowing. Many of the homes that had been damaged before or during the war have new roofs and are ready to live in.