This is a tiny, un-rehabilitated joint with no cover charge and no reservations, whose crowds, jazz and mystical vibes often spill out onto the sidewalk. The Smaldone clan still operates this legendary north Denver relic of mobster days. Gaetano's has not survived on just memories, however. Gaetano's is also a shrine to the late Frank Sinatra, who monopolizes the jukebox and the wall-d cor, along with Italian flags, classical nudes and reminders of the Roman Empire. 2004 E 28th Ave.
Barbecue is the main attraction, with ribs, chicken and sliced beef and pork the big sellers.
Mack smokes his meats with hickory and apple woods, and he serves them with three heat levels of vinegar-tanged sweet sauce. The fish is the big secret among the multicultural crowds that frequent this friendly Five Points locale. Rolled in corn meal and deep fried, the catfish, perch and whiting are mighty good. Mori's serves superb Japanese food. Although they began serving Japanese food in 1948, it was not until the 1990s that Mori's came out of the closet.