More dining upstairs, wine bar, piano player. Flawless, unobtrusive service. A wine list with important collections of French and U.S. reds and whites, some producers in depth, regional Italians. Recently re-tweaked by Yabu Pushelberg, the room presents serious modern glamour. A controlled imagination absorbs notions from the Mediterranean, the tropics, a little from Asia, some Americana, balancing busy combinations with admirable clarity.
Desserts play quiet games with the classics.