All are eager to please, except for the ground-floor greeters. It sounds hard-edged but isn't, thanks to sinuous banquettes, mirrors and lace curtains. Water spills silently down a wall. Above the roof, with panes that slide open, towering brick walls duel to the sky. The room is mellow, the view overhead gritty - and each makes the other more interesting.
Dinner begins auspiciously with three kinds of Indian-style bread.
And no faulting radiant striped bass with lobster-fennel hash and sweet red chili sauce. As in most of Yeo's work, the flavors marry gracefully, without the shrillness of some fusion experiments. But other good chefs have got the hang of it, too. Strangely, spring rolls with it were indistinct and soggy. Peekytoe crab and asparagus egg-drop soup elevates the Cantonese clich .