The Mittellegi Hut is perched spectacularly on the narrow crest of the ridge. Normally our climb starts about an hour before sunrise. This is one of those climbs where you want an early start to allow time for the long descent, but its not a good idea to start too early as the rock climbing along the ridge crest is certainly more of a challenge in the dim light of a headlamp. Perhaps there is some consolation in that the tremendous exposure is hidden from us until dawn. There are several hundred feet of thick fixed line which greatly facilitates climbing some sections, particularly those that venture out onto the icy north side of the ridge.
Descent is either by the South Ridge or the West Flank.
Both descent routes are long. Normally we prefer to descend the South Ridge, but occasionally conditions on the West Flank may be preferable. All in all, the Mittellegi Ridge is a long day, beginning at about 4 or 5 in the morning and finishing a tiring 12 hours later. The Eiger's South Ridge is an excellent climb and the best way to climb the peak when the Mittellegi Ridge is out of condition because of snow. It is still a serious climb however, offering technical rock pitches interspersed with easier climbing and occasionally steep snow.