What is remarkable about this popular new California-style restaurant is not its food or decor, both highly appealing. Grapeseed American Bistro and Wine Bar has attempted the challenging task of operating a wine bar under Montgomery County's consumer-unfriendly wine laws. Montgomery is the only jurisdiction in the country that owns, runs, and monopolizes wholesale wine distribution. No restaurant can serve any wine not purchased through the government agency that controls wine sales. Grapeseed is pretty and colorful.
Bright posters contrast with the high, off-white ceiling, blond wood, and white tablecloths.
Service has been good, with only one lapse on four visits. A server removed the soiled knife and fork from the appetizer plate and unceremoniously put them on the crisp white tablecloth. One of the main attractions and conceits of Grapeseed is its ambitious attempt to pair wine and food. Both appetizers and main courses are listed under separate headings, to accompany white wine and to accompany red wine. The pairings are intelligent and helpful, but they suggest a degree of precision in matching that may inhibit the enjoyment of good wine and excellent food, which already rivals the best of Bethesda.