Deville By Phil Vettel Deville is a tough restaurant to figure out. In look and ambience it seems like a great neighborhood spot, perfect for a light meal midweek or something more celebratory on the weekend.
Ambition is fine when the restaurant measures up.
Sometimes, Deville does not. One night the kitchen will turn out a fine ribeye steak with absolutely perfect pommes frites, and the next visit trot out a pear salad so limp and lifeless that a jolt of Viagra might be the best remedy. On the whole, the good clearly outweighs the bad, but it s going to take a little more time to determine how good Deville will be. The roasted rabbit is served with bacon, fava beans and chanterelle mushrooms in a tarragon veloute. Erik Unger Deville is owned by Dion Antic, whose varied restaurant concepts include Iggy s, Toast, Harry s Velvet Room and the recently opened Bar Thirteen.