To operate the right hand holds the body of the starter motor with the thumb ready to press the on switch, while the left hand holds the handle to stabilize the starter. This starter will start any petrol engine up to 120cc with ease, from a twelve car volt battery. Dismantle the drive mechanism from the starter motor drive shaft, and cut off the drive shaft to 50mm from the body, drill a hole through the alloy bar stock to a nice fit on the drive shaft, now for the lathe work, turn down stock bar to 42m diameter by 40m long, remove from lathe and place the 42m end in the lathe, clean up the large end to a nice finish, now we have to bore into the alloy down to 30m to make a step 20m wide that the tyre sits on, the wall thickness is 5m, now angle down to the motor shaft to prevent the spinner bottoming out, the cup is held in place by drilling two holes in the alloy Pic 3 that fits over the shaft, tapping them 5m, carefully mark the shaft in line with the holes either drill or make a flat on the shaft then insert 5m grub screws. Because the kit components are effectively finished for you this model can be built in a very short time. On the left is is my Yak 112 ready for the windows to be cut out and spraying of the color scheme I have chosen is as per the real Yak 112 picture below.
All windows have yet to be cut out and the glazing put in.
Engine is the Zenoah 62cc turning a 22 X 10 wooden propeller with the on board electric starter motor. The close loop rudder, very neat installation. The Yak now looking very nice after the spray job, flair spray paint was used i.e. Dark Blue, White, and Red, the decals done by Premier Signs, three bladed prop by EAT Props, the main screen has yet to be put in place, with this out makes easy access for working on the instrument panel made by David Leftley Graphics, all the other glazing is now in place, most of the white is the gel coat after a quick T-Cut with the original color restorer, this puts a beautiful shine to the model and removes the release agent, the paint will then take and decals we stick without the fear of a silicon base on the model. The finished Yak at the LMA Haigh Hall Seminar this year. I mix the flux with water into a wet paste, then with a small paintbrush, brush the parts to be soldered, then I cut a piece of solder lay it on the part to be soldered, heat the metal when the correct temperature has been reached the solder will flow into the joints evenly and give you the strongest possible joint.