The platter of four little French bread toasts, topped with tomato and Parmesan and drizzled in olive oil, takes the edge off the wait and whets the appetite. With appetizer en route, spend some time studying the menu. Tony Marsico, owner of both Tuscan Garden and adjoining Two Rivers Lodge, is a creative cook known for taking risks in the kitchen. The deck expands his playground to the crackling oven out back. You will find sophisticated food infused with the haunting smokiness of dry, split birch.
Coals sit well back in a corner, and food gets arrayed on ceramic bricks in front.
Prime cooking spots fronting the flames are few, so the wait on a crowded night can be considerable. The oven is really meant for pizzas and calzones, and the 30-minute drive from downtown is worth it for them alone. Marsico's crust is thin and fairly crisp, with a blackened edge that rubs off on your fingertips and leaves a satisfying grit on your lips. Pizzas are not larded up with cheese and el cheapo meats, either. Toppings run from artichoke hearts to salami.