But tomato lovers know this isn't true and know, too, that tomatoes taste best in the summer and early fall, and when they are grown only for flavor, not for their ability to either cheat the seasons or withstand shipping. I eschew the mealy, cottony tomatoes available in markets from November through June, and anticipate the coming of the summer harvest as a child might dream of an approaching birthday. I was born in early July, and to me, a perfectly ripe garden tomato has always been the best gift of all. Cook tomatoes at the end of harvest, when they must either be used quickly or preserved before frost hits. When tomatoes first appear, you can best savor their qualities by preparing simple salads, sandwiches, soups, and sauces with sliced, diced, or minced tomatoes, which retain their bright flavor, appealing acidity, and silky texture.
Bread is a natural partner.
Many of the best uses for summer's first tomatoes don't require a recipe. After I eat my fill of tomatoes neat, much as I would an apple or a peach, I slice them thick and put them on bread, garnished only with a bit of salt and pepper. Next comes bruschetta and its many variations. Today, the Italian dish of toasted bread rubbed with garlic and topped with olive oil and minced tomatoes is found from backyard barbecues to fine restaurants, yet one of my favorite versions is Catalan rather than Italian. It is a ubiquitous appetizer in restaurants throughout northeastern Spain and a breeze to prepare at home.