The restaurant specializes in the Japanese version of Italian, which as far as I can tell from visiting Pietro's and now this restaurant, is blander than bland. Now in Japan, these may very well be four-star restaurants, but here, they're subpar. I briefly considered that maybe I'm being too harsh, that maybe I'm guilty of cultural bigotry or snobbery. Basically, the food you grow up with is the food you love, and if watery sauces are expected in Japan, well, Capricciosa lives up to expectations. The restaurant chain has been successful in Guam, Saipan and California, and from the looks of the crowd, Capricciosa has found a niche in Waikiki.
Customers do look happy.
The atmosphere is loud, spirited and full of comaraderie. Still, I felt the cooking runs counter to current American philosophy, which involves showcasing the natural flavors of food. At Capricciosa, dishes taste as if they are processed in a lab and stored in a can or TV dinner tray before arriving on the table. It's Barbie food, smooth and plastic, and heaven forbid Barbie should reek of garlic or onions. JUST before setting off for Capricciosa, I dashed off an e-mail note to a friend in Japan.