There is that mystical moment when Spirit and form become united in one body, the Human, at the moment of birth, and, for a little while, Spirit rides the form of Humanity back to its source, only to turn again to the Earth, to feel the experience of Life once again. We are all surfers, in one form or another. Some ride the waves of Life as they ride the waves of the ocean, testing it, daring it to claim them, hanging on the edge. Some, like I, prefer the moderate swells to the monster waves. Some seek to test themselves in competition with their fellow beings, while others, like I, enjoy testing the waves on their own, with no judge other than themselves and the ocean.
All experiences are valid.
Even in the wipeouts, there is passion, and meaning. All are a part of the ride of Life. Surfin' Santa Cruz . Santa Monica was my home for the last few years of my life. I actually lived all over CA, up and down the coast.