Roche Harbor, the historic village roughly at the island's north end, is in the midst of some of the most spectacular shoreline, including Lime Kiln Point State Park, with its resident eagles and wild-bluff overlooks. Driftwood beckons on its land-bank beach, a gift from islanders. The view into the setting sun is heartbreakingly beautiful, nearly spiritual in its incandescence. This is orca-watching territory too, so keep an eye peeled. Most visitors notice the wildlife first, especially if they venture toward the island's center.
Bird life is abundant, noisy and industrious.
But the San Juans are agricultural, have been since homesteading Americans supplanted the Native American population. Two national parks dominate, just because they are tied to a bit of history that prompted an international incident in the 19th Century. The Pig War, as it is commonly known, broke out in 1859 when someone fired on the swine and the British and Americans argued about whose country owned what. In fact, island residents are great fans of live theater and have created their own community venue to produce shows, hang art and generally celebrate all things creative. As well, the island could fairly boast that it's a garden center, even while leaving lots of places in their wild state.