And the sunken back room is home to Malouf's flaming hearth, where it's fun watching a squad of chefs manning the fires. Nobody will bankroll a new magazine in L.A. because Los Angeles has the name, and the name's the franchise. At Beacon, Malouf's the franchise. Things have clicked since early summer, when some dishes misfired. Roast suckling pig, buttery throughout its pink and white complexions, splashed happily in sweet chili-tomato sauce and the pig's own juice.
Desserts are grand, especially chocolate angel cake with mascarpone cheese and berries.
But few places do this brand of American cooking so well. And what a sparkling new arena for watching the power players wheel and deal. The content of this feature is updated weekly on Wednesdays.