But Lobrano has been catering at the Beaches for seven years, and the charming bistro, located a block from the ocean, reflects her experience, taste and organizational skills in decor and service. Lobrano introduced herself as she seated my party of four, taking time to chat a little about the restaurant and her background. A friendly waiter arrived immediately to fill our goblets with Gaverina bottled water from the Italian Alps. Next, he delivered a dinner napkin, clay flower pot filled with warm Gruyere cheese puffs, tiny blueberry and apple spice muffins, yeast rolls and poppy seed rolls and took our order for a bottle of wine. The wine list is respectable although not extensive.
Beer is available, too.
While still hot from the oven, the spread was a delicious treat, but as it cooled and solidified some of the taste was lost. Coeds forgotten for the moment, the enormous portion of clams prompted memories of clam rolls for which Howard Johnson restaurants were known. A La Carte's clams were much better, as sweet and succulent as the remembered Boston version, he declared. It was too much for me. I was, however, disappointed with the lobster, which was finely chopped, heavily covered in bread crumbs and butter and somewhat overdone for my taste.