The meatloaf, which includes torn bread, applewood-smoked bacon, ketchup, mustard, basil, thyme and Worcestershire sauce, is marinated overnight to allow the flavors to develop. Mark Bloom, chef-owner of Convivo in Phoenix, believes that texture and mouthfeel also define comfort food. Even when the Phoenix sun scorches, customers still order braised dishes, like osso buco, laden with heavier starches such as risotto and mashed potatoes. People go from air conditioning to air conditioning. His cooking and her desserts at the Magnolia Grill have evolved, but their repertoire has been demonstratively Southern, driven by quality local ingredients and seasonal foodstuffs.
Barker elevates the traditional by layering and balancing flavors.
Ethnic flavors allow Kent Rathbun to be creative and to incorporate his favorite flavors. At Abacus, there's Creole crab bisque with sea bass hushpuppies, Chinese rice bowl with stir-fried beef and sweet chile garlic sauce, and spicy lobster and andouille sausage jambalaya with red pepper fettuccine. No matter what foods come in and out of fashion, comfort food will always have a place. After all, we're all kids at heart. Strain braising liquid, skim fat, reduce by half and season.