The construction below will give a mechanical advantage to help the cam bite and wedge instead of slide, the construction above will help the cam stay put. The best placement are those where all the cam surfaces contact the rock and the entire units is in line with the potential load. To decide how to orient a cam, picture what will happen if you fall. For example, sticking a cam into a shallow crack so that its trigger sticks out parallel to the ground is a bad idea, because the cam will rotate until the stem is as close to being in-line with the force of the fall as possible. If the cam can t rotate, it will be under tremendous leverage.
Cams work best when placed within the special working range.
A cam crunched into a crack may be irretrievable, while a cam close to its expansion limit will have a little travel left to expand during a fall, or to adjust if it walks into a slightly wider place in the crack. It s your responsibility to buy gear that holds. Be conservative, especially at first. Find good rock configurations, anticipate how the cam might move once you climb past it, double up at crucial placements, and practice, practice, practice. Frequently asked questions.