Clyde's has been reinventing itself. The atrium now has a 16th-century stone chimney piece, and large vintage model planes hang from the glass ceiling. The Victorian omelette room has been converted to a cherry-paneled tavern with oil paintings of sporting life over the booths.
Burgers are still featured - beef or turkey.
And Clyde's chili is, too - though that is also available in cans from your neighborhood fancy food shop. Yet the mainstays are not beef but those contemporary, light, protein hits, chicken and salmon, appearing as appetizers, salads, sandwiches and entrees with an abundance of local vegetables to accompany them. The menu changes daily, giving the chef a chance to react to the market. But sometimes I wonder whether the chef changes from minute to minute. Rarely have I found such wide swings in a restaurant's food.