Those days are past for Portale, who once received weekly calls about creating vertical food. Sensibility, simplicity and splendor of ingredients exemplify the most contemporary plate presentations. Components that make up the dish are still layered and have some height but don't require a hammer and chisel. They no longer appear just for show or to provide a splash of color. The role of tableware also is increasingly important in food presentation.
Chefs agree, however, that they walk a fine line in a difficult balancing act.
They want the food to be simple, unencumbered and without so many flavors the dish is indiscernible. But they also believe the dish should be visually impressive, whether to justify price or to build their base of regular guests. The flavors are pure, not muddled so you've got a couple of flavors on each plate. For Martin Rios, executive chef of the Old House at the Eldorado Hotel in Santa Fe, N.M., the process also is rooted in the seasons but begins as a visual one. As I write the menu, I try to think what it will look like.