First, on the subject of TV interference. Mine doesn't affect the TV, but the TV is on cable, and so there is no easy path from the Icecap to the TV by radiated interference, and conducted interference doesn't seem to get into the TV picture either. I poked around with an oscilloscope. The ballast label has a wiring diagram, where the first fluorescent tube is connected by two red wires at one end, two yellow wires at the other end, for the second tube its orange and blue. The red and orange pairs have the high voltage, and are driven with the same voltage, while the yellow and blue pairs are near ground.
All pairs have a low voltage for the lamp filaments.
You people having TV interference problems may want to try connecting the wires so the red and orange pairs are at opposite ends of the fixture. Also, the wiring itself can radiate, and you should keep the wiring as short as possible, and near to the lamps as much as possible, to help keep all the fields canceling out. Keeping the wires bundled or twisted toegther may help too. The device operates in the 30 to 40 KHz frequency range, as a switching supply, so it generates quite a bit of higher frequencies. I can see quite a bit of 30KHz in the AC line current.