Owner Nicola Marzovilla makes sure the southern wines are priced well. Buco's list is international and more eccentric, much like its creator, the molto energetic Roberto Paris. A quick glance at Paris' list shows he ignores wine ratings. With a lineup of Vega Sicilia wines and the sublime Clos Martinet, the Spanish list is particularly good. But if you want something less hip, San Pietro in Midtown, run by the three Bruno brothers, is the thing.
Buffalo mozzarella is as buttery as an Apulian burrata.
When pasta comes, the host, Gerado Bruno, shakes a no to the waiter who wants to shower the plate with Parmesan. The wine list suits most needs and it has a breathtaking number of 1990 Brunellos and Barolos as well as a good selection from Campania, the Brunos home region and passion. Brother Cosimo's ability to achieve such coups is a reason to stop by, even if you're not looking for a meal on which to seal that deal. The list is rich in Bordeaux and California Cabernets. The prices are all over the map.