Pork loin benefits from a maple syrup and bourbon glaze and accompanying cranberry-walnut stuffing. Even over Sterno heat, the halibut manages to stay moist and flaky. Chicken, usually one of the all-time brunch snoozers, receives some care. The grilled breast isn't dried out, and it gets a tasty cream-sauce boost. And the first-rate medley of wheat berries and rice alongside is just more proof that the kitchen isn't merely going through the brunch motions.
Desserts are the weakest part of the operation.
The display looks great - strawberries are skewered on pineapple spikes, coconuts are colorfully filled with berries, and a chocolate glaze is applied to pineapple. But these are touches on which only the eyes can feast. Alas, most of the edible offerings have an institutional air. The waxy chocolate mousse has no chocolate flavor. The brownies taste like they came from a mix.