Queer little spiral stone stairways, hardly wide enough for a single person, connect the different floors. The underground portions, which were well inhabited, were damp and dark, and appeared about as comfortable as subterranean prison cells. These houses were built during the reign of the sultans and deys, who cruelly persecuted the Jews, and it is said to be owing to their malice that the latter were obliged to construct and live in such dwellings. On the outside of many of the houses, near the entrance, were impressions of an open band in blue and red, made by dipping the hand into paint and pressing against the wall. This is regarded as a sign of good luck.
Cooking is done over small portable fire- pots, which are carried from room to room.
Everywhere a strong odour of burning wood was noticeable. The day of our visit, the women were busy scrubbing and whitewashing the courts and alcoves in preparation for the Sabbath, but they were good-natured, and willing to show us their houses, and appeared highly pleased when we gave the children a few sous. The Jewish children are especially attractive, dressed as nowhere else, in red, yellow and purple-figured calicoes, which they drape over their shoulders with charming effect. They also wear jaunty little pointed caps. We made several attempts to kodak them, but in vain, for as soon as they discovered our intention they would scamper away.