Light and airy whipped sweet potatoes made me dream of Thanksgiving. The seared beef tenderloin tips at Cochon Sauvage are just as good as the ones I ate at Les Deux Gros. Tender chunks of meat are mixed with wild mushrooms and served with peppered pasta. Just when I thought they could use more meat in this dish, I moved a couple noodles and uncovered a cache of beefy bites. The wide, flat noodles boasted fine pepper flavor, but stuck together too much for my taste.
Desserts are anything but savage.
Les Deux Gros pastry chef Laurie McNamara does double duty at Cochon Sauvage, creating wonderfully delicious desserts as evidenced by the plump, juicy blueberries glazed with port that nested in a bright lemon sabayon and airy puffed pastry. These two fruits were meant to be served together. Equally decadent was the chocolate creme brulee with rich, dark custard hiding under a thick sugar shell. We passed on the aperitfs, despite the fine collection of port, brandy and other cordials. Cochon Sauvage boasts a solid wine list offering both French and domestic reds and whites and a handful of Champagnes and sparkling wines.