But this is a city restaurant, not a roadside barbecue, and all is calm and hygienic. Nevertheless, and to my delight, when our steak, fish and mixed grill arrive, they are unmistakably charred and taste of flame. L a Estancia's version of Argentina's parillada consists of beef short ribs cut like spare ribs, pork tenderloin, sweetbreads and morcilla, which is blood sausage. When this parillada arrives, it is topped with a big, fat, shiny black morcilla and further embellished with chunks of chorizo and skinny links of morcilla blanca, or white sausage made with chopped chicken and pork. At the sight of this monumental conglomeration, we are momentarily struck dumb.
Assessment depends on point of view.
Carnivores will salivate, the timid will be daunted, the pragmatist will decide which components to take home for tomorrow's lunch. W e sample. The sweetbreads are delicate and delicious. The short ribs are a serious disappointment, gristly and bony. The pork loin, cut thin, is rather dry, though its spicy coating gives it pizzazz.