Sweetbreads and mushrooms,'' the waiter grins. Loin of lamb dozes. But lump crab cake bears no resemblance to its wretched lunchtime counterpart. It's a huge, scary blob out of a 1950s sci-fi movie. But it's perfect, enlivened by bouillabaisse coulis and dainty Japanese squid.
Desserts are mostly winners.
Palladin makes us want to come back when things settle down. But do something about those damned lights. The content of this feature is updated weekly on Wednesdays.