Virgin pine forests still speckle the countryside, although they were once much thicker. Being at the headwaters of the watershed, the country around San Rafael abounds with clean water holes. The easiest to access are along the two creeks that meet at the Los Encuentros restaurant, located a ten-minute walk out of town on the road toward Yali. The more adventurous should hike down into the gorge that runs on the north edge of town. Descend from the Hospedaje Rolinmar and then start upstream.
Cold water rushes through a narrow canyon, shady and thick with green vegetation.
Other swimming holes exist all around, but you'll have to use your Spanish-language skills to find them. Also, when hiking across the countryside, stay on the cow paths. A landmine could put a damper on your vacation. Speaking of safety, take extra precautions when travelling in the Jinotega countryside. Random kidnappings and bandits give the area a bit more of that Wild West feel than you may bargain for.