But every Italian restaurant serves it. We were running the most wonderful gelatos and granitas that night. Granitas and gelatos are far from revolutionary, but they represent a perceptible shift in the way restaurants present Italian cuisine. Menu items such as risotto, polenta, bruschetta, panini, focaccia and gelato are quickly becoming commonplace, settling in alongside classics such as lasagna, spaghetti and tiramisu. They are even beginning to replace them in operations that strive to duplicate authentic regional Italian cuisine.
Classics are unquestionably important to foodservice menus.
These familiar tastes are the spark behind America's romance with Italian cuisine, a love affair that keeps growing stronger. But as the popularity of Italian cuisine escalates, many operations are rethinking their approaches. Competition demands variety, individuality and creativity. Paolo Sari, the Italian-born executive chef of Coco Pazzo, Los Angeles, loves spaghetti with red sauce and will gladly serve it to anyone who asks. But he won't add it to the menu.