From the 2-mile loop trail on Tubbs Hill, they can still admire 110 miles of sandy shoreline as well as the Coeur d'Alene resort, resembling a Bavarian castle. Then again, prog ress isn't all bad. In the good old days, there wasn't a floating 14th hole at the resort's golf course with a ''putter'' motorboat to take golfers there. Several trails start at Heaven's Gate, a fire tower at the edge of Seven Devils Peak, where blue and yellow wildflowers climb the gorge. The neighbouring falls crash 114 feet and 65 feet, respectively, over rock gorges squeezed out of the Henry Fork of the Snake River.
Anglers favor the crashing froth between the falls for catching rainbow trout.
Gawkers are out in force, and so are climbers, attracted by the sturdy granite and the vast selection of more than 1,000 rocks. The peaks of the Sawtooth Mountains trace the jagged edge of a timber saw into Idaho's high-altitude skyline. The Sawtooth Fish Hatchery, south of Stanley, is working to bring the sockeye back and is open to visitors. No volcano here. Visitors drive the 7-mile loop around the monument, hopping out to explore cavelike underground lava tubes where ice can persist till July.