Description A relatively short route that starts from a parking area at an abandoned ski area on the mountain's southern slopes. Description Whitney Glacier stretches over two miles down Shasta's northwest slopes, and is the longest glacier in California. The lower glacier is a straightforward ascent, though crevasses open in late summer and fall. The only major obstacle along the route is the large icefall adjactent to the saddle that separates Shasta from its neighboring peak, Shastina. There are multiple routes and variations on this wide, smooth glacier on Shasta's north side.
All routes are generally straightforward.
This is the mountain's south ridge, an excellent winter route because of its lack of avalanche exposure. Snow melts by mid to late summer, however, then the route is largely on scree and talus. Description The Hotlum Glacier, on Shasta's northeast slopes, is a wilderness of spectacular icefalls, and is popular for serac climbing. In late summer and fall, the glacier is a complex maze of crevasses. The ascent of the glacier's headwall is a difficult mixed climb on rock and ice.