Single Fit Bespoke Bra for Individuals with Atypical Breast Shape/Size: Fabric Testing, Fitting Tool, and Wear Trial
Creators: Bolaji, Josephine Taiye
Publisher: name: University of Alberta Library
Year: 2023

<p>This research was conducted as part of an industry project aimed at developing a bespoke bra based on a patented design for individuals with atypical breast shape/size. The pre-assembled modular bra is fitted directly onto the body in a single fitting session. It is aimed at improving the fit, support, and comfort of bras for individuals with voluminous breasts or with significant breast asymmetry as they experience major challenges when trying to find a well-fitted, supportive, and comfortable bra in ready-to-wear bra products. <br>
In this thesis, different aspects allowing these individuals can obtain a well-fitted, supportive, and comfortable bra through this patented one-fitting session process were covered. This included the development of knowledge towards the fabric selection for the bra, the design of a tool needed for the fitting process, and the trial of the fitting process and bra performance by human participants. To achieve the objectives of the thesis, a sequential explanatory mixed method approach was used where quantitative data was first collected and analysed followed by the collection and analysis of qualitative data.<br>
The properties and performance of knitted and stretch woven fabrics were assessed. The knitted fabrics can be used for areas such as the cup and stretch woven fabrics for areas such as the sidebands. The analysis of the effect of the fabric characteristics on the burst strength and unrecovered stretch of knitted fabrics with plated elastane yarns indicated that the presence of elastane as plated yarn does not seem to affect the general behaviour of knitted fabrics. However, other testing conditions such as load and fabric characteristics such as missed stitches and raised backs could have a major impact. For the stretch woven fabrics, it was observed that, at very high elastane content (51%), the load-extension curve in the grab tests was typical of that of an elastane fiber while the traditional behavior was obtained at lower elastane contents. For the polyester-based stretch woven fabrics, their grab strength and tear strength generally increased with fabric weight and decreased with elastane content. For the polyamide-based stretch woven fabrics, a higher elastane content led to a decrease in grab strength, tear strength, and unrecovered stretch. An increase in their tear strength was observed at higher fabric weight.</p>

<p>A knitted and a stretch fabric were selected for the bra based on mechanical (burst and unrecovered stretch for the knitted fabrics; grab, tear strength, and unrecovered stretch for the stretch woven fabrics), comfort (moisture management, vertical wicking, water vapor transmission, air permeability, and smoothness), and long-term performance (pilling resistance and dimensional stability after laundering for both types of fabrics, and colorfastness to washing and perspiration for the knitted fabrics) criteria. In addition, a fitting tool was designed and prototypes of the tool were produced to allow for the safe insertion/removal of pins during the fitting session. A pilot study was conducted to assess the effectiveness of the fitting protocol and the performance of the resulting bespoke bra. Results were obtained from a structured interview during the fitting session and a survey questionnaire administered after the participants had worn their bespoke bra for a week. <br>
The findings obtained in this study contributed to improving the knowledge on knitted and woven fabrics containing elastane, in particularly regarding their mechanical behavior. In terms of practical application, fabrics were selected for the different modules of the bespoke bra. The tool that was designed will improve the fitting process for the bra and potentially reduce safety hazards related to the use of pins in the general fashion and clothing industry. The knowledge generated from the pilot study will inform the study design of the full wear trial of the bra fitting. It also provided insights to improve the bra design and the fitting process. This research will support manufacturers in their selection of fabrics for tight-fitted garments. It will also contribute to enhance the quality of life of individuals with atypical breast shape/size. </p>