cometadata/datacite-rtg-text-other-reclassification-records huggingface dataset:
Photovoltages in perovskite-type oxide thin film cells
Creators: name: Morgenbesser, Maximilian
name: Viernstein, Alexander
name: Bodenmüller, Niklas
name: Taibl, Stefanie
name: Kubicek, Markus
name: Fleig, Jürgen
Publisher: name: Zenodo
Year: 2020
Subjects: SrTiO3
high temperature solid oxide photovoltaic cell
thin films

description: SrTiO3 (STO), a perovskite-type oxide, shows many interesting effects under UV light illumination, such as an increase in oxygen incorporation rate, an enhancement in conductivity and a change in color in Fe doped STO single crystals. The increased oxygen uptake under UV light has also been used for a battery-type voltage in STO under UV light irradiation. With a top layer, e.g. (La,Sr)CrO3 (LSCr), much higher photovoltages can be realized. Such high temperature solid oxide photovoltaic (PV) cells are promising due to their possible combination with solid oxide electrolyzer cells (SOEC). By using a common electrode of a PV cell and an underlying SOEC it is possible to directly transfer light to chemical energy. However, optimization of voltage and power of such high temperature PV cells is still required. In this study, different materials (e.g. (La, Sr)(Cr,Mn)O3 (LSCrM), (La,Sr)CoO3 (LSC), (La,Sr)FeO3 (LSF) and NdNiO3 (NNO),…) were tested for their applicability in oxide solar cells and mechanistic insight in processes under UV is gained.
OCT and CMR to determine underlying causes of MINOCA in women Circ 2021.pdf
Creators: name: Reynolds, Harmony
name: maehara, akiko
name: Kwong, Raymond Y.
name: Sedlak, Tara
name: Saw, Jacqueline
name: Smilowitz, Nathaniel
name: Mahmud, Ehtisham
name: Wei, Janet
name: Marzo, Kevin
name: Matsumura, Mitusaki
name: Seno, Ayako
name: Hausvater, Anais
name: Giesler, Caitlin
name: Jhalani, Nisha
name: Toma, Catalin
name: Har, Bryan
name: Thomas, Dwithiya
name: Mehta, Laxmi
name: Trost, Jeffrey
name: Mehta, Puja
name: Ahmed, Bina
name: Attubato, Michael
name: Bangalore, Sripal
name: Razzouk, Louai
name: Ali, Ziad
name: Bairey Merz, C. Noel
name: Park, Ki
name: Hada, Ellen
name: Zhong, Hua
name: Hochman, Judith
Publisher: name: Health Research Alliance
Year: 2024
Subjects: classificationCode: 429999
subject: Other health sciences not elsewhere classified
classificationCode: 320101
subject: Cardiology (incl. cardiovascular diseases)

description: Primary manuscript from the Women's Heart Attack Research Program describing multi-modality imaging in women wtih MINOCA
UV induced photochromism in Fe-doped SrTiO3 caused by oxygen stoichiometry changes
Creators: name: Viernstein, Alexander
name: Kubicek, Markus
name: Morgenbesser, Maximilian
name: Walch, Gregor
name: Brunauer, Georg
name: Fleig, Jürgen
Publisher: name: Zenodo
Year: 2019
Subjects: Fe doped SrTiO3
high temperature photochromism
oxygen incorporation
inplane conductivity

description: In the last decades Fe-doped SrTiO3 (Fe:STO) has become one of the best investigated mixed conducting materials. Nevertheless, the effect of UV irradiation at elevated temperatures on the material’s composition, more precisely on its oxygen content, has hardly been examined so far. UV illumination in oxygen causes an enhanced oxygen incorporation rate and therefore a decreased oxygen vacancy concentration of SrTiO3. Consequently, Fe3+ in Fe:STO is oxidized to Fe4+ to preserve charge neutrality. This oxidation may cause color changes in Fe:STO and a decline in the AC and DC resistivity, which can be investigated by UV/VIS spectroscopy, inplane impedance spectroscopy, van der Pauw measurements respectively. Oxygen can also be released again from Fe:STO by annealing without UV exposure. Therefore, reversibly switching between these described states can be obtained.
title: Guzmania :
title: Richtlinien für die Durchführung der Prüfung auf Unterscheidbarkeit, Homogenität und Beständigkeit.
titleType: Subtitle
Creators: name: International Union For The Protection Of New Varieties Of Plants,
Publisher: name: International Union for the Protection of New Varieties of Plants,
Year: 0
Subjects: Group identity.
New Varieties of Plants
Guzmania

description: Zweck dieser Richtlinien („Prüfungsrichtlinien“) ist es, die in der Allgemeinen Einführung (Dokument TG/1/3) und deren verbundenen TGP-Dokumenten enthaltenen Grundsätze in detaillierte praktische Anleitung für die harmonisierte Prüfung der Unterscheidbarkeit, der Homogenität und der Beständigkeit (DUS) umzusetzen und insbesondere geeignete Merkmale für die DUS-Prüfung und die Erstellung harmonisierter Sortenbeschreibungen auszuweisen.
“Iconic and Beyond Reproach”: The Socio-Aesthetic Relevance of Riverdale
Creators: name: Brembilla, Paola
name: Checcaglini, Chiara
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Riverdale; TV Series; Aesthetics; Vintage; Coolness

description: The purpose of this paper is to explore the aesthetic and narrative design of the TV series Riverdale (The CW, 2017-), where fashion, visual splendor and coolness do legitimate a seemingly non-sense narratives and ultimately contribute to produce cultural and social value. First, we contextualize Riverdale in the production ecosystem of the youth-geared network The CW. Second, we dwell on the concepts of retro and coolness to understand the mechanisms of Riverdale’s timeless charm and cool attitude. Third, we exemplify these aesthetic strategies by focusing on the design of the three leading female characters. Fourth, we explore the interplay between onscreen representation and offscreen self-representation of the actresses. Finally, we argue that the visual surface of the show becomes a tool to express commercial appeal and empowering values, which are not mutually exclusive.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
When to Use Which Neural Network? Finding the Right Neural Network Architecture for a Research Problem
Creators: name: Färber, Michael
name: Weber, Nicolas
Publisher: name: CEUR-WS.org
Year: 2022
Subjects: recommender systems
machine learning
neural network architectures
open science

description: Considering the increasing rate of scientific papers published in recent years, for researchers throughout all disciplines it has become a challenge to keep track of which latest scientific methods are suitable for which applications. In particular, an unmanageable amount of neural network architectures has been published. In this paper, we propose the task of recommending neural network architectures based on textual problem descriptions. We frame the recommendation as a text classification task and develop appropriate text classification models for this task. In experiments based on three data sets, we find that an SVM classifier outperforms a more complex model based on BERT. Overall, we give evidence that neural network architecture recommendation is a nontrivial but gainful research topic.
The Anatomy of Coolness
Creators: name: Corbanese, Eleonora
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Cool Attitude; Body; Realm of Everyday Life; Field Research

description: In this paper I will describe how I designed and which are my findings of the research I undertook for my dissertation project during my Master in Fashion at Goldsmiths, University of London in late 2017. I dealt with the meaning of coolness, unpicking its definition and problematizing its role in contemporary culture. The aim of the whole research project was to shape my own definition of coolness, within the realm of everyday life, using it as a tool to explore my interests; at the same time, it triggered enticing conversations with people about their personal response to fashion-led practices. In order to decode coolness, I crossed my theory-based framed research with research on the field. The former is mainly based on sociologist Joanne Entwistle’s take on the theory of the “social body,” explained in her book The Fashioned Body; sociologist Joanne Finkelstein’s adaptation of Baldassarre Castiglione’s term sprezzatura to nowadays popular culture in her book The art of self-invention; and journalist Dick Pountain and sociologist David Robins’ book Cool Rules: Anatomy of an attitude. The latter is constituted by a visual survey, in which I asked people to draw a response to the question ‘What is cool for you?’; observation on the streets taking pictures that I then elaborated and transformed in an illustrated handbook entitled The Anatomy of Coolness and a workshop, that I organized at Goldsmiths, focused on the female body, entitled I didn’t want the body missing. Firstly, I will give a theoretical framework of the project, and I will analyse the agency and meaning of coolness in relation to the wider and more established definition of style. In the second part of this paper I will address more directly on three activity of the research path I designed. I will explain my methodology and the analysis of the findings I gathered through my field research.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
The Aestheticisation of Feminism: A Case Study of Feminist Instagram Aesthetics
Creators: name: Crepax, Rosa
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Aesthetics; Instagram; Feminism; Popular Culture; Digital Culture

description: The sphere of aesthetics has come to play an increasingly crucial role in today’s world, shaping every aspect of our contemporary culture and everyday life, from our practices of consumption, to the way we use the internet and our whole lifestyles. In this regard, it is especially interesting to examine to what extent and to what effect this phenomenon has also spread to socio-political areas which have traditionally little to do with art and beauty. With this article, I will explore the phenomenon of contemporary aestheticisation, from the perspective of the feminist movement. More specifically, I will focus on the impact of the digitalisation of contemporary culture and everyday life on the relationship between aesthetics and feminism, paying particular attention to practices linked to the sphere of fashion and art. I will begin to investigate the contemporary phenomenon of aestheticisation while addressing the following questions: What role does the digital realm play in the aestheticisation of feminism? How can we define today's intertwined connection between feminism and the creative and cultural industries? And, to what extent can digital feminist aesthetics remain radical while engaging with mainstream creative scenes? In order to keep a well-defined focus, I will concentrate on the case of feminist aesthetics on Instagram and the phenomenon of Instagram feminism.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
Be Cool, Be Responsible, Buy Responsibly: Bihor Couture VS Christian Dior, a Case Study
Creators: name: Czakon, Dominika
name: Mazur-Bubak, Monika
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Bihor Couture; Cultural Appropriation; Phenomenological Theory of Art; Corporate Social Responsibility; Creating Shared Values

description: In the article, referring to the Bihor vs. Dior case study, we criticize the phenomenon of illegitimate borrowing of the achievements of a given culture by corporations which we consider an act of cultural appropriation, in terms of both aesthetics and business ethics. We also describe the potential for a positive solution to the problems of cultural borrowing. The first part of our analysis is based on Roman Ingarden’s phenomenological theory of art, concerning artistic and aesthetic qualities and artistic and aesthetic values. Our analysis consists of the juxtaposition of two works, i.e., traditional clothing from the region of Bihor and clothing referring to this original, presented in the Dior collection, along with an indication and comparison of the associated qualities and values. In the second part of the article, we analyze the Bihor vs. Dior case from the point of view of the contemporary concepts of CSR (corporate social responsibility) and CSV (creating shared values). We indicate that the case under discussion is an example of bad corporate practices and irresponsible borrowing of the achievements of a given culture. At the same time, we state why, from an ethical point of view, it is worth returning to the use of local suppliers and small local craft businesses.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
“Hey Siri, Play Me Something I’d Like!” Ecophenomenology of Fashion in Spike Jonze’s Fashion Film
Creators: name: D’Aloia, Adriano
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Fashion Film; Spike Jonze; Media Ecology; Media Enaction; Embodied Cognition

description: Based on a theoretical framework that combines media studies, fashion studies and philosophy of mind, this contribution adopts an “enactive” perspective to analyse the relationship between audiovisual media and fashion. The application of the enactive approach highlights the centrality of the interaction between body, space and technology in the construction of the media experience intended as an extension of human physical and mental limits. The analysis of two recent fashion films by the American director Spike Jonze – Kenzo World for Kenzo and Welcome Home for Apple – will contribute to clarifying the ways in which the combination of dance, music, fashion, advertising and film narration can give life to enactive media experiences.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
Is Modest Fashion Modest?
Creators: name: Esposito, Elena
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Modest Fashion; Volubility; Abstractness of fashion; Contingency; Ethnic Fashion

description: Fashion seems to be opening to a trend towards ethnic and multicultural content, and even to a modest fashion based on the desire to avoid attracting attention. The paper discusses the possibility that fashion has a social impact, contrasting it with Simmel’s “abstractness:” the claim that fashion has no reason and cannot have a reason – and if it does, this is not the reason why we follow it. Fashion goes by and this is its real content, beyond the forms it takes over time. The open question is whether a modest fashion can still be modest, or whether it has to give up its nature in order to be fashionable – and whether this is a price that is worth paying.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
The realization of integrated marketing communications that affectpurchasing behaviors of adolescent girl cosmetics in Bangkok
Creators: name: Chairit Thongrod
Publisher: name: Faculty of Management Science Nakhon Pathom Rajabhat University
Year: 2014
Subjects: Integrated marketing communication
cosmetic
factor analysis

description: Journal of Management Science Nakhon Pathom Rajabhat University, 1, 1, 111-125
Long-Term Exposure to Traffic-Related Air Pollution and the Risk of Coronary Heart Disease Hospitalization and Mortality
Creators: name: Gan, Wen Qi
name: Koehoorn, Mieke, 1966-
name: Davies, Hugh, 1957-
name: Demers, Paul A.
name: Tamburic, Lillian
name: Brauer, Michael (Of University Of British Columbia)
Publisher: name: The University of British Columbia
Year: 2015

description: BACKGROUND: Epidemiologic studies have demonstrated that exposure to road traffic is associated with adverse cardiovascular outcomes. OBJECTIVES: We aimed to identify specific traffic-related air pollutants that are associated with the risk of coronary heart disease (CHD) morbidity and mortality to support evidence-based environmental policy making. METHODS: This population-based cohort study included a 5-year exposure period and a 4-year follow-up period. All residents 45–85 years of age who resided in Metropolitan Vancouver during the exposure period and without known CHD at baseline were included in this study (n = 452,735). Individual exposures to traffic-related air pollutants including black carbon, fine particles [aerodynamic diameter ≤ 2.5 μm (PM₂.₅)], nitrogen dioxide (NO₂), and nitric oxide were estimated at residences of the subjects using land-use regression models and integrating changes in residences during the exposure period. CHD hospitalizations and deaths during the follow-up period were identified from provincial hospitalization and death registration records. RESULTS: An interquartile range elevation in the average concentration of black carbon (0.94 × 10-⁵/m filter absorbance, equivalent to approximately 0.8 μg/m³ elemental carbon) was associated with a 3% increase in CHD hospitalization (95% confidence interval, 1–5%) and a 6% increase in CHD mortality (3–9%) after adjusting for age, sex, preexisting comorbidity, neighborhood socioeconomic status, and copollutants (PM₂.₅ and NO₂). There were clear linear exposure–response relationships between black carbon and coronary events. CONCLUSIONS: Long-term exposure to traffic-related fine particulate air pollution, indicated by black carbon, may partly explain the observed associations between exposure to road traffic and adverse cardiovascular outcomes.
Extensive epigenetic reprogramming in human somatic tissues between fetus and adult
Creators: name: Yuen, Ryan K.
name: Neumann, Sarah M.
name: Fok, Alexandra K.
name: Peñaherrera, Maria S.
name: McFadden, Deborah E.
name: Robinson, Wendy P.
name: Kobor, Michael S. (Geneticist)
Publisher: name: BioMed Central
Year: 2016

description: Background: Development of human tissue is influenced by a combination of intrinsic biological signals and extrinsic environmental stimuli, both of which are mediated by epigenetic regulation, including DNA methylation. However, little is currently known of the normal acquisition or loss of epigenetic markers during fetal and postnatal development. Results: The DNA methylation status of over 1000 CpGs located in the regulatory regions of nearly 800 genes was evaluated in five somatic tissues (brain, kidney, lung, muscle and skin) from eight normal second-trimester fetuses. Tissue-specific differentially methylated regions (tDMRs) were identified in 195 such loci. However, comparison with corresponding data from trisomic fetuses (five trisomy 21 and four trisomy 18) revealed relatively few DNA methylation differences associated with trisomy, despite such conditions having a profound effect on development. Of interest, only 17% of the identified fetal tDMRs were found to maintain this same tissue-specific DNA methylation in adult tissues. Furthermore, 10% of the sites analyzed, including sites associated with imprinted genes, had a DNA methylation difference of >40% between fetus and adult. This plasticity of DNA methylation over development was further confirmed by comparison with similar data from embryonic stem cells, with the most altered methylation levels being linked to domains with bivalent histone modifications. Conclusions: Most fetal tDMRs seem to reflect transient DNA methylation changes during development rather than permanent epigenetic signatures. The extensive tissue-specific and developmental-stage specific nature of DNA methylation will need to be elucidated to identify abnormal patterns of DNA methylation associated with abnormal development or disease.
How voltages and light can affect the composition of oxides: Comparing Fe exsolution on LSF upon voltage with SrTiO3 upon light
Creators: name: Fleig, Jürgen
Publisher: name: Zenodo
Year: 2019
Subjects: La0.6Sr0.4FeO3-δ
oxygen chemical potential
mixed ionic electronic conductors
SrTiO3
UV irradiation

description: The properties of mixed ionic electronic conducting oxides are strongly influenced by their defect concentrations, which are determined by external parameters such as oxygen partial pressure, light, temperature, and overpotential. The variation of defect concentrations caused by a change in the oxygen chemical potential play among others a crucial role in the process of oxygen incorporation into La0.6Sr0.4FeO3-δ. A mechanistic consideration is discussed, and a new rate equation is established. Moreover, not only the composition of LSF thin films itself but also metal exsolutions on their surface in reducing atmospheres were examined by NAP-XPS and in-situ XRD. Triggering of these exsolutions and switching between Fe and FeOx has been observed. In SrTiO3 a change in the oxygen chemical potential by UV irradiation leads to an enhanced oxygen incorporation, which causes high temperature photochromism, a conductivity increase, and a battery-type voltage.
Affecting point defects in SrTiO3 by preparation and illumination
Creators: name: Fleig, Jürgen
Publisher: name: Zenodo
Year: 2020
Subjects: Fe doped SrTiO3
intrinsic conductivty
UV irradiation
mechanistic model

description: Fe doped SrTiO3 thin films produced by pulsed laser deposition from a stoichiometric target exhibit an astonishingly low conductivity compared to bulk samples. This extraordinary difference of five orders of magnitude is attributed to a Sr nonstoichiometriy causing Sr vacancies and anti-site defects. In the second part of this talk, the effects of UV irradiation on SrTiO3 are discussed. Oxygen incorporation is accelerated causing a change in the material’s composition, which leads to high temperature photochromism, a battery-type of voltage, and an enhanced conductivity. A mechanistic explanation based on quasi fermi levels is suggested.
CD248 facilitates tumor growth via its cytoplasmic domain
Creators: name: Maia, Margarida
name: DeVriese, Astrid
name: Janssens, Tom
name: Moons, Michaël
name: Lories, Rik J.
name: Tavernier, Jan
name: Conway, Edward M.
Publisher: name: BioMed Central
Year: 2016

description: Background: Stromal fibroblasts participate in the development of a permissive environment for tumor growth, yet molecular pathways to therapeutically target fibroblasts are poorly defined. CD248, also known as endosialin or tumor endothelial marker 1 (TEM1), is a transmembrane glycoprotein expressed on activated fibroblasts. We recently showed that the cytoplasmic domain of CD248 is important in facilitating an inflammatory response in a mouse model of arthritis. Others have reported that CD248 gene inactivation in mice results in dampened tumor growth. We hypothesized that the conserved cytoplasmic domain of CD248 is important in regulating tumor growth. Methods: Mice lacking the cytoplasmic domain of CD248 (CD248CyD/CyD) were generated and evaluated in tumor models, comparing the findings with wild-type mice (CD248WT/WT). Results: As compared to the response in CD248WT/WT mice, growth of T241 fibrosarcomas and Lewis lung carcinomas was significantly reduced in CD248CyD/CyD mice. Tumor size was similar to that seen with CD248-deficient mice. Conditioned media from CD248CyD/CyD fibroblasts were less effective at supporting T241 fibrosarcoma cell survival. In addition to our previous observation of reduced release of activated matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-9, CD248CyD/CyD fibroblasts also had impaired PDGF-BB-induced migration and expressed higher transcripts of tumor suppressor factors, transgelin (SM22α), Hes and Hey1. Conclusions: The multiple pathways regulated by the cytoplasmic domain of CD248 highlight its potential as a therapeutic target to treat cancer.
Zodarion bosmansi Pekar & Cardoso 2005
Creators: name: Shafaie, Sepideh
name: Pekár, Stano
name: Ortiz, David
Publisher: name: Zenodo
Year: 2025
Subjects: Biodiversity
Taxonomy
Animalia
Arthropoda
Arachnida
Araneae
Zodariidae
Zodarion
Zodarion bosmansi

description: Zodarion bosmansi Pekár & Cardoso, 2005
Figs 21, 34G–I, 38D, 39D, 41C
Zodarion segurense Pekár et al. 2003: 393, fig. 15 (♂).
Zodarion bosmansi — Pekár & Cardoso 2005: 55, figs 9–12(♂ ♀).
Diagnosis: Zodarion bosmansi can be distinguished from other species in the styliferum group by a unique combination of characters, including the largest cymbium, which is at least 1.5 times longer (Fig. 34H), an exceptionally extended tegulum visible in the ventral view (Fig. 34H), and a sub-rectangular epigynal plate (Figs 38D, 41C).
Description: For a detailed description of the habitus and male palp, refer to Pekár & Cardoso (2005). Epigyne (Fig. 41C): Epigynal plate sub-rectangular, much wider than long, anteriorly limited by a pair of touching chitinous margins, posteriorly widened. Sides of the epigynal plate S-shaped. Epigyne with a longitudinal septum, gradually widened toward the posterior part of the epigyne, accompanied by a pair of copulatory openings on antero-lateral sides of the septum; these copulatory openings linked to a pair of lateral pits by connecting grooves.
Comment: The classification of Z. bosmansi into a Zodarion species group was challenging because of its shared morphological similarities with Z. lusitanicum (previously placed in the elegans group) and Z. segurense (styliferum group) (Pekár & Cardoso 2005). We found that all three species display considerable affinity in their copulatory organs’ morphology. Therefore, we consider them all belong to the styliferum group.
Distribution: Portugal.
description: Published as part of Shafaie, Sepideh, Pekár, Stano & Ortiz, David, 2025, Integrative taxonomy of the Iberian Zodarion species of the rubidum and styliferum groups (Araneae: Zodariidae), pp. 1-69 in Zootaxa 5624 (1) on page 33, DOI: 10.11646/zootaxa.5624.1.1, http://zenodo.org/record/15324823
Constructing New Signifiers with Aesthetic Intervention: Using Coal in Design
Creators: name: Germek, Magdalena Germek
name: Pranjić, Kristina
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Design; Coal; Semiology of Fashion; Material Culture; Organicism

description: This paper is based on the outcomes of the interdisciplinary project Coal Story conducted by the Faculty of Media and the Faculty of Design in Ljubljana (Slovenia), which was implemented in 2019 in cooperation with the graduate and postgraduate students of Media, Communication, Psychology, and Design, who were working under the mentorship of interdisciplinary researchers and designers. The central designer of the project was Marjeta Hribar with her innovative brand KUOLMi; she is known for her jewelry and object design made of coal found in her local Zasavje region, which has a rich history of industrial coal mining in Slovenia. Design as a form of visual arts is an important social formation with a potential for restructuring the attitude and strategies that we have towards the material culture around us. In this paper, we try to contextualize the findings of the project using two theoretical approaches: firstly, we use the study of signs, semiology, and secondly, the current study of material culture. The latter is introduced through the work of author Daniel Miller and is developed through the theoretical work of the avant-garde artist Vladimir Tatlin, who established the Department of Material Culture already in 1920s.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
On the “-Core” Mechanisms of Street Fashion
Creators: name: Kamneva, Anna
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Street Style; Fashion and Media; Fashion and Postmodernity; Social Synchronization; Network

description: This paper introduces a model of vestimentary coordination and synchronization, derived from interdisciplinary research within the tension field of fashion and media studies, dealing with the phenomenon of self-organization in social and cultural systems and exploring the spatiotemporal dynamics of persistence and innovation in the field of democratized postmodern vestimentary fashions. Using the example of the ‘-core’ hype cycle (2000’s hipster, turned normcore, turned glamcore, turned GORPcore), I will outline its two complementary mechanisms providing structural patterns for vestimentary coordination, based on space-biased vestimentary interactions, and synchronization, based on time-biased vestimentary practices: spatialization with a tendency to uniformity-oriented network building and temporalization with a tendency to singularity-oriented swarming. I will argue that the model can serve as analytical tool for describing trend development in a digital culture, characterized by pluralization, differentiation, acceleration and algorithmicity.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
Is It ’Cause I’m Cool / Why You Dress Like Me is It Honesty or You Just a Fool
Creators: name: Linfante, Vittorio
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Creative Industries; Fashion; Branding; Cool; Advertising

description: “I’m cool … / That’s cool … / He/She’s the coolest ...:” exclamations like these have described various types of elements: names, things, cities, characters, in a constant search of novelty and more à la page, more exciting and, of course, more niche. Who is cool is unique, unrepeatable but with a lot of imitators who sublimate the image and reverberate through many different means of communication: from the traditional to the contemporary, from the mass media to the most elite channels. But what identifies a person, a product, or a city as cool? Is it a strategy? Is it marketing or a spontaneous attitude? Is it one of these things or a combination of them? Starting from this assumption and from some emblematic case studies from the worlds of fashion, art, music, and in general all the creative fields (from the Marchesa Casati to Frida Kahlo, from Anna Piaggi to Miuccia Prada, from the “presence” of John Galliano and Maurizio Cattelan to the “absence” of Martin Margiela and Banksy, from Virgil Abloh’s multitasking attitude to Alessandro Michele’s conceptual retro-aesthetics, from Tamara de Lempicka’s “being cool and famous strategy” to the analysis of the trends’ life cycle, from the movie parodies of Totò (the Neapolitan actor) to Steve Jobs’s cool-nerd aesthetics and the design of contemporary new icons, this paper intends to investigate the roots behind the construction of coolness. This is a concept, that to be long-term and broadly resilient and not to be lost in “the long tail” of niches and subcultures, requires, now more than ever, solid cultural foundations and distinct elements wisely mixed.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
Cinephilia and the Aestheticization of Film. Cultural Legitimacy Before and After
Creators: name: Menarini, Roy
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Cinephilia; Film Criticism; Film Aesthetics; Film Theory; Film Consumption

description: The history of cinema is characterized by the fight for cultural legitimacy. Specifically, in the 20th century, cinema played a key role for the expansion of the aesthetic field in debates on contemporary times and even influenced the philosophy of art. Aesthetic categories are taken from other and more traditional artistic forms (such as representative arts, literature and theatre). The purpose is to expand the field of cultural legitimacy of cinema also to those fields which were considered too involved in the industrial needs. This is the reason why contemporary cinephilia have sometimes extended the broad definition of “beautiful” also to more marginal areas as well as to the most unpredictable places (from pornography to horror), thus identifying forms of art everywhere. So, what is cinephilia and how did it revolutionize the aesthetic criteria of cinema?
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
Knitting, Weaving, Embroidery, and Quilting as Subversive Aesthetic Strategies: On Feminist Interventions in Art, Fashion, and Philosophy
Creators: name: Michna, Natalia Anna
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Handicrafts; Subversive Strategies; Contemporary Art; Fashion; Feminist Philosophy

description: In the paper I pose the question of how, on artistic, aesthetic, and philosophical levels, decoration and domestic handicrafts as subversive strategies enable the undermining and breakdown of class-based and patriarchal divisions into high and low, objective and subjective, public and private, masculine and feminine. I explore whether handicrafts, in accordance with feminist postulates, are transgressive, transformative, and inclusive. I link handicrafts with the feminist perspective, since, in the second half of the twentieth century, it was precisely the feminist movement that initiated significant changes in the social and cultural perception of women, femininity, and gender relations. Thus I apply this perspective in the first place to the analysis of selected works of contemporary art in which handicrafts is used not only as a means of artistic expression, but also as a subversive aesthetic strategy. I also demonstrate how the world of fashion transforms and aesthetizes handicrafts, whose presence in fashion makes it an area in which, in addition to imperatives and aesthetic values, social attitudes, ethical values, and world views are shaped. Finally, referring to the works of selected feminist authors (Mary Field Belenky, Mary Daly, Evelyn Fox-Keller, Donna Haraway), I show how these researchers have metaphorically interpreted handicrafts as specifically feminine ways of creating and developing knowledge.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
Could Old Be the New Cool? Shifting Aesthetics of the Aging Body
Creators: name: Naranch, Laurie E.
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Age; Fashion; Cool; Philosophy; Aesthetics

description: We often think of “cool” as an imperative of youth. But what does it mean to think of “cool” in relation to the aging body? This essay engages the shifting aesthetics of aging bodies asking what this view of the self and identity signals and in what contexts? In philosophy and political theory aging is rarely studied in terms of views of the self, experience, or aesthetics; more frequently we see aging in terms of demographics, workers past their prime, or in a framework of decline. I argue that there is an emerging “cool” aesthetics of aging bodies that is not simply about chasing youth. These aesthetics revolve in particular around what aging bodies wear, or do not wear. That is, fashion in terms of clothing, accessories, dress, and ways to augment assisting tools (canes for example) has an outsized role in the aesthetics of the aging body. Although who ages well and how, and who can dress well and how, are shaped by nation, gender, class, religion, and other social identity categories, aging is an identity still undertheorized in fashion and political philosophy.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
Fashion’s Pimp Up Posse: Leather, Sneakers and Community ID
Creators: name: Owen, Kayla
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Leather; Sneakers; Sub-culture; Customisation; Unique

description: The purpose of this research is to assess the value of an alternative production approach to leather (specifically customisation --- noun --- the action of modifying something to suit a particular individual or task) and examine the sub cultural sneaker group who subscribe to, or are central to the craft of customisation. The people who are defined by the need for individuality. The study seeks to establish if this sub-group are rethinking and developing a new relationship towards dress and creating an alternative leather fashion aesthetic through their pursuit of unique. The spectacle of these items, in this case sneakers, becomes the display, the piece by which the wearer wishes to be noticed. But it also serves to question our fundamental philosophies of ready-to-wear fashion, and if our clothing and footwear can be honed and changed into new and unique items, the desirability and wanton aspect is altered. Style elevation, ownership and longevity improve the life cycle of these fashion items. This rethinking between sneaker and wearer who will pimp up, restore, custom and convert in order to sustain and nurture the item develops a new, more ethical and flexible connection towards attire. One which could influence future ways of seeing leather fashion items.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
Barista Cool: Espresso Fashion Transformed
Creators: name: Pojmann, Wendy
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Espresso; Barista; Third Wave Coffee; Coffee Fashion; Made in Italy

description: In many parts of the world today, being a barista is cool. Young, bearded hipsters, tattooed artists, and pretty but disaffected teenage girls serve up their latte art specialties while dressed in attire worthy of fashion blogs. Some coffee brands prefer a distinctive uniform that reflects their marketing strategies while others recommend a look or allow for self-expression. Barista cool is a relatively new phenomenon, however. It appears to have been launched in youth-oriented cultures, such as in the United States and Australia and then re-crafted, like artisan coffee, in trend-setting countries, such as Japan, and re-imagined in countries with long-standing coffee cultures, such as Italy, the birthplace of espresso. Historic Italian espresso producers now encourage branding through uniforms that combine personal style and Italian fashion. New espresso bars in Italy moreover reflect the influences of third wave coffee and global fashion trends. This article seeks to analyze how and why espresso and cool fashion have only recently converged through the use of a variety of sources, such as archival research, interviews, and participant observation.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
Kim VS Trump: A Hair Style Duet
Creators: name: Proni, Giampaolo
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Semiotics; Donald Trump; Kim Jong-un; Phatic Communication; Semiotics of Fashion

description: When Donald Trump joined the international media circus of politics, first as the Republican candidate and then as the President of the US, his original hair style stirred a widespread curiosity. Then Trump appeared side by side with the North Korean leader Kim Jong-un, also the bearer of a very different yet equally unconventional hairdo. The pair formed such a suggestive diptych that I thought the powers of semiotic analysis should be summoned to inquire on that rare and relevant juxtaposition. The present article summarises the outcomes of that analysis. The conclusion suggests that Trump's hair represents a kind of 'autism in self-presentation', while in Kim's case the separation extends to his culture as a whole. In conclusion, the combined consequences of these characteristics of the two personalities lead to the hypothesis that the dialogue they have undertaken may remain less a true substantial confrontation than a mere display of contact.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices
The prognostic effect of ethnicity for gastric and esophageal cancer: the population-based experience in British Columbia, Canada
Creators: name: Bashash, Morteza
name: Hislop, T G
name: Shah, Amil M
name: Le, Nhu
name: Brooks-Wilson, Angela
name: Bajdik, Chris D
Publisher: name: BioMed Central
Year: 2016

description: Background: Gastric and esophageal cancers are among the most lethal human malignancies. Their epidemiology is geographically diverse. This study compares the survival of gastric and esophageal cancer patients among several ethnic groups including Chinese, South Asians, Iranians and Others in British Columbia (BC), Canada. Methods: Data were obtained from the population-based BC Cancer Registry for patients diagnosed with invasive esophageal and gastric cancer between 1984 and 2006. The ethnicity of patients was estimated according to their names and categorized as Chinese, South Asian, Iranian or Other. Cox proportional hazards regression analysis was used to estimate the effect of ethnicity adjusted for patient sex and age, disease histology, tumor location, disease stage and treatment. Results: The survival of gastric cancer patients was significantly different among ethnic groups. Chinese patients showed better survival compared to others in univariate and multivariate analysis. The survival of esophageal cancer patients was significantly different among ethnic groups when the data was analyzed by a univariate test (p = 0.029), but not in the Cox multivariate model adjusted for other patient and prognostic factors. Conclusions: Ethnicity may represent underlying genetic factors. Such factors could influence host-tumor interactions by altering the tumor's etiology and therefore its chance of spreading. Alternatively, genetic factors may determine response to treatments. Finally, ethnicity may represent non-genetic factors that affect survival. Differences in survival by ethnicity support the importance of ethnicity as a prognostic factor, and may provide clues for the future identification of genetic or lifestyle factors that underlie these observations.
An analysis of the ‘Blind Variation and Selective Retention’ theory of creativity
Creators: name: Gabora, Liane
Publisher: name: Taylor & Francis
Year: 2018

description: Picasso’s Guernica sketches continue to provide a fruitful testing ground for examining and assessing the Blind Variation Selective Retention (BVSR) theory of creativity. Nonmonotonicity—e.g. as indicated by a lack of similarity of successive sketches—is not evidence of a selectionist process; Darwin’s theory explains adaptive change, not nonmonotonicity. Although the notion of blindness originally implied randomness, it now encompasses phenomena that bias idea generation, e.g. the influence of remote associations on sketch ideas. However, for a selectionist framework is to be applicable, such biases must be negligible, otherwise evolutionary change is attributed to those biases, not to selection. The notion of ‘variants’ should not be applied to creativity; without a mechanism of inheritance, there is no basis upon which to delineate, for example, which sketch ideas are or are not variants of a given sketch idea. The notion of selective retention is also problematic. Selection provides an explanation when acquired change is not transmitted; it cannot apply to Picasso’s painting (or other creative acts) because his ideas acquired modifications as he thought them through that were incorporated into paintings and viewed by others. The generation of one sketch affects the criteria by which the next is judged, so sequentially generated sketches cannot be treated as members of a generation, and selected amongst. Although BVSR is inappropriate as a theoretical framework for creativity, exploring to what extent selectionism explains the generation of not just biological form but masterpieces such as Picasso’s Guernica is useful for gaining insight into creativity.
title: Guzmania :
title: Guidelines for the Conduct of Tests for Distinctness, Uniformity and Stability.
titleType: Subtitle
Creators: name: International Union For The Protection Of New Varieties Of Plants,
Publisher: name: International Union for the Protection of New Varieties of Plants,
Year: 0
Subjects: Guzmania
Group identity.
New Varieties of Plants

description: The purpose of these guidelines (“Test Guidelines”) is to elaborate the principles contained in the General Introduction (document TG/1/3), and its associated TGP documents, into detailed practical guidance for the harmonized examination of distinctness, uniformity and stability (DUS) and, in particular, to identify appropriate characteristics for the examination of DUS and production of harmonized variety descriptions.
title: Bruit dans l'annotation morphosyntaxique : Impératif
Creators: name: LIEGEOIS, Loic
Publisher: name: NAKALA - https://nakala.fr (Huma-Num - CNRS)
publisherIdentifier: https://ror.org/04ces3204
publisherIdentifierScheme: ROR
Year: 2024
Subjects: subject: corpucit
subject: corli

description: Extrait du corpus Colaje permettant d'illustrer le bruit causé, lors de l'annotation morphosyntaxique automatique, par l'utilisation de conventions de transcription spécifiques.
 Extrait généré via la plateforme Corpucit.
description: thumbnail
Development to Marketing innovation to create competitive advantage in textiles and apparel in Thailand
Creators: name: Thongchai Hemtanon
Publisher: name: Faculty of Management Science Nakhon Pathom Rajabhat University
Year: 2015
Subjects: Marketing innovation
competitive advantage
textiles

description: Journal of Management Science Nakhon Pathom Rajabhat University, 2, 2, 106-123
Towards a better mechanistic understanding of electrocatalytic phenomena at oxide / gas interfaces
Creators: name: Fleig, Jürgen
Publisher: name: Zenodo
Year: 2020
Subjects: mixed ionic electronic cunductors
oxygen incorporation
new rate equation
composite electrodes

description: In the following presentation a novel model for interpreting and understanding the role of p(O2) and overpotential in the oxygen incorporation into mixed ionic electronic conductors is proposed. Owing to a spatial separation of the electrostatic effects of the overpotential and the oxygen incorporation sites, Butler-Volmer equation for rate limiting charge transfer cannot display the kinetics adequately. Local driving forces and players such as ionic and electronic defects, p(O2), and surface dipoles have to be taken into account. A new rate equation is introduced and verified by recording p(O2)-dependent I-η curves of La0.6Sr0.4FeO3-δ (LSF) thin films. Additionally, composite electrodes like exsolution electrodes (Fe on LSF and nano Pt on LSF) and two-phase oxide electrodes are discussed. Results, obtained by using NAP-XAS, in-situ XRD, or in-situ impedance pulsed laser deposition, are presented.
Olympic Games Impact (OGI) Study for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games: Games-Time Report
Creators: name: OGI-UBC Research Team
Publisher: name: University of British Columbia
Year: 2011

description: This report is the third in a series of four reports on Olympic Games Impact (OGI) for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games (2010 Winter Games). The current OGI report focuses on event indicators. The report was updated on November 21, 2011.
What is “Fashion” and How to Research it? Polybius for Punk Fashion Sociology
Creators: name: Almila, Anna-Mari
name: Inglis, David
Publisher: name: ZoneModa Journal
Year: 2020
Subjects: Fashion; Globalization; Epistemology; Ontology; History

description: Fashion changes societies, and is also itself shaped by multiple socio-cultural processes, including processes of globalization. At the same time, fashion scholarship is not only speaking about and seeking to understand fashion, but is also actively formulating ideas, assumptions and understandings as to what fashion can be, and where in history and in which geographical locations fashion can be found. This paper addresses the increasingly complex question of the nature of fashion in a globalized and increasingly interconnected world. Arguing for a radical, “punk,” attitude toward fashion scholarship, and a concomitant rethinking of fashion, we suggest an approach that goes beyond academic and political fashions, drawing upon historical scolarship and examples. For while it is strikingly obvious that fashion is a global and globalized phenomenon, its specific character, and indeed its geographical locations and origins, remain contested. Drawing inspiration from the ancient Greek historian Polybius, and his ideas of an "ecumenical analytical" approach to studying world-wide phenomena, we reflect upon the history and current state of fashion studies in what we consider an ecumenical moment, which demands novel insights, but also holds many new opportunities for the field.
description: ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1S (2020): S.I. Be Cool! Aesthetic Imperatives and Social Practices