bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Geometric Characteristic of a Sewing Needle Applied in Clothing Manufacture Technology with Reference to Elastic Critical Statically Balance Loads – A Comparative Study
Authors: Hashima Wael A. 
Published: April 2022

In this work a sewing needle of an industrial commercial sewing machine is investigated from the different points of view of geometrical and critical elastic statistical balance. The dimensions of the sewing needle are = 60 mm, and = 2.5 mm and 1.45 mm diameter for the two stepped needle. The needle is treated as a fixed – free end column, with two sections: I0 (I1) = 1.9615 (E – 12) m4 and (I2) = 2.0516 (E – 13) m4. The upper partial length a = 31.2 mm, while the lower partial length b = 28.2 mm. The value of the critical load is 110 N, while the Euler load Pe = 1112 N, then γ = 3.1796. Another approach was used for a line diagram of the truncated cone of the sewing needle, where the critical load Pcr = 57 N, the Euler load Pe = 118 N, and γ = 3.13. For the line diagram of a sewing needle with a constant cross-section = 1.965 mm, I = 7.3185 (E – 13) m4, = 41.8778 N & η = 2.467. Then Pcr = 103 N, Pe = 413 N & γ = = 2. For a sewing needle with a constant cross-section and the penetration load is uniformly distributed, the geometric characteristic is found to be = 7.839, γ = 1.22, Pcr = Pcr()cr = 328 N & q = 5472 N/m (6 N/mm). The present work aims to open as yet untouched areas for more and intensive academic and experimental studies, in the field of how penetration forces affect critical loads. The work is the first step in the evaluation of the mechanics of the industrial sewing needle.
Simulation Evaluation Method for Fusion Characteristics of the Optical Camouflage Pattern
Authors: Yang Xin , Xu Wei-Dong , Liu Jun , Jia Qi , Zhu Wan-Nian 
Published: April 2022

A comprehensive evaluation system for a camouflage design combining local effect evaluation and global sampling is developed. Different from previous models, this method can sample and evaluate target camouflage in a wide range of combat areas, thereby obtaining a comprehensive evaluation effect. In evaluating local effects, the Gaussian pyramid model is adopted to decompose the image on a multi-scale so that it can conform to the multi-resolution property of human eyes. The Universal Image Quality Index (UIQI) conforming to features of eye movements is then adopted to measure the similarities between multi-scale targeted and background brightness, color and textural features. In terms of the imitation camouflage pattern design algorithm, uniform sampling is used to obtain the evaluation distribution in the background; while for the deformation camouflage pattern, the sampling distribution is improved to make it conform to the movement rule of the target in the background. The evaluation results of the model for different designs were investigated. It is suggested by the experimental results that the model can compare and evaluate the indicators involved in the process of camouflage design, including integration, polychromatic adaptability and algorithm stability. This method can be applied in the evaluation and contrast of camouflage pattern design algorithms, in parameter optimisation of camouflage design and in scheme comparison in engineering practice, and can provide support of evaluation methodology for camouflage design theories.
Sustainable Fashion and Young Fashion Designers: Are Fashion Schools Teaching Sustainability?
Authors: Shen Lei , Sethi Muhammad Hussnain 
Published: April 2022

The fashion Industry is one of the major polluting industries globally, and it has become a hot topic of debate. Thousands of people participate in climate change marches and attend seminars worldwide, but sadly most of them usually wear fast fashion products due to the lack of awareness. This pilot research investigates how well freshly graduated fashion designers know sustainable textiles and fashion as fashion designers are the ones who lead the fashion industry. We used a qualitative research method, and focus group discussion was applied for data collection. Twenty-four freshly graduated fashion designers from China, India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan participated in this research. The focus group discussions were conducted in Shanghai, China. Topics were divided into three categories:(a) fast fashion, recycling & upcycling, (b) zero-waste fashion, and (c) eco-friendly fibres. Findings disclosed that the participants were well-aware of techniques like fashion illustration, pattern-making, and draping but comparatively uninformed about sustainable fashion. They were familiar with the term „sustainable fashion” but completely unaware of details and their sustainability responsibilities. Suggestions to rectify this important issue are provided in this study.
Assessing the Competitiveness of Serbian Textile and Apparel Industry Exports Using RCA Index and TPI Indicators
Authors: Corovic Enes , Jestratijevic Iva 
Published: April 2022

Due to the paucity of relevant research, little is known about emerging patterns of competitiveness in the textile and apparel (T&A) industry in Balkan countries. Research focused on the Serbian T&A industry after 2006, when the country renewed its independence, is particularly sparse. The purpose of this research is to contribute to a greater understanding of emerging competitiveness and its main determinants in the Serbian T&A industry, in the time period between 2007 and 2019, and in the context of the EU-28 market. Balassa’s Revealed Comparative Advantage index and the Trade Performance Index instruments were used to assess export competitiveness, while the key competitiveness determinants were explored drawing on Porter’s (1990) theory of the Competitive Advantage of Nations. Findings confirmed that Serbia, a low-income country and not an EU member, retained a distinguished and strong T&A export potential, which confirms that the country is a competitive player in international trade.
Using TOPSIS and AHP Methods in Job Distribution to Subcontractors in Apparel Companies and Comparing the Results
Authors: Bulur Öykü Ceren , Kayar Mahmut 
Published: April 2022

The ready-to-wear sector is one of the areas where outsourcing is used extensively due to reasons such as being a labour-intensive sector, having a wide range of products, and the time pressure caused by the very short shelf life of the product. Therefore, garment companies work with a large number of subcontractors, which raises the problem as to which subcontractor/subcontractors work will be distributed to as well as how much to each subcontractor. Using multi-criteria decision-making methods in solving this complex problem helps decision-makers make the right decisions. From this point of view, multi-criteria decision-making methods are very important decision-making tools in terms of the optimal distribution of work to subcontractors. Within the scope of the study, the TOPSIS and AHP methods were used to distribute orders to subcontractors and compared.
Digital Real-Time Rotating Speed Measuring and Fuzzy PID Control Algorithm Design for the Multi-Speed Electronic Let-Off System
Authors: Ren Wen , Wen Xia , Lai Sencai 
Published: April 2022

Aiming at the warp knit fabric horizontal strip problem faced by the multi-speed electronic let-off process of warp knitting machines, a design scheme of a fully digital intelligent multi-speed electronic system is proposed. A wide-range digital speed measurement method is proposed which solves the problem that the traditional analog circuit speed measurement method cannot measure the real-time warp beam speed, and also eliminates the problem of the low-speed feedback blind zone. According to the characteristics of the electronic let-off system of warp knitting machines, the hardware structure and software algorithm of the fuzzy PI control system were designed which can adjust the control parameters of the traditional PI controller in real time according to the fuzzy control table, and realise stable multi-speed electronic let-off. The effectiveness of the design method was verified by simulation.
Carbon Footprint and Water Footprint of Cashmere Fabrics
Authors: Chen Bilin , Qian Weiran , Yang Yiduo , Liu Hong , Wang Laili 
Published: April 2022

Given the serious problems of climate change, water shortage and water pollution, researchers have paid increasing attention to the concepts of the carbon footprint and water footprint as useful indices to quantify and evaluate the environmental impacts of the textile industry. In this study, assessment of the carbon footprints and water footprints of ten kinds of cashmere fabrics was conducted based on the PAS 2050 specification, the Water Footprint Network approach and the ISO 14046 standard. The results showed that knitted cashmere fabrics had a greater carbon footprint than woven cashmere fabrics. Contrarily, woven cashmere fabrics had a greater water footprint than knitted cashmere fabrics. The blue water footprint, grey water footprint and water scarcity footprint of combed sliver dyed woven cashmere fabric were the largest among the ten kinds of cashmere fabrics. The main pollutants that caused the grey water footprints of cashmere fabrics were total phosphorus (TP), chlorine dioxide, hexavalent chromium (Cr (VI)) and sulfide. The leading contributors to the water eutrophication footprint were total nitrogen, ammonia nitrogen, chemical oxygen demand and TP. These typical pollutants contributed 39% ~ 48%, 23% ~ 28%, 12% ~ 24% and 12% ~ 14% to each cashmere product’s water eutrophication footprint, respectively. The leading contributors to the water ecotoxicity footprint were aniline, Cr (VI) and absorbable organic halogens discharged in the dyeing and finishing process.
Study on the Technological Process and Artistic Characteristics of Ancient Chinese Zhuanghua Silk Fabric
Authors: Chai Juan , Cui Rrongrong , Niu Li 
Published: April 2022

In order to explore the traditional and superb craftsmanship as well as unique characteristics of artistic expression in ancient China, in this paper Zhuanghua silk fabric was selected as the research object, and the research methods of expert interview, cultural relic investigation, field investigation and others were adopted. The craft, pattern, colour and other artistic characteristics of Zhuanghua silk fabric were analysed and studied. First of all, the historical background and classification of Zhuanghua silk fabric are introduced, focusing on a comparison with other processes such as Chinese Silk Tapestry, Secondly, taking Zhuanghua Satin as an example, the technological process of Zhuanghua Satin is analysed in detail. Based on this, the artistic characteristics of Zhuanghua silk fabric are analysed from a micro perspective. The problem of vagueness with regard to the skills and artistic features of traditional Zhuanghua silk fabric was solved in the study, and an important reference for modern innovative practice is put forward so as to inherit and carry forward the technique of Zhuanghua silk fabric.
Comparative Analysis of the Performances of Six Taguchi-Based Multi-Response Optimisation Techniques for Product Development in Textiles
Authors: Ahmad Naseer , Kamal Shahid , Raza Zulfiqar Ali , Zeshan Muhammad , Abid Sharjeel , Javed Zafar , Karahan Mehmet 
Published: April 2022

Researchers are using different statistical techniques for process optimisation and product development both in academia and industries. Similarly, several statistical tools are being employed in the textile industry for process optimisation during the manufacturing of different products. The purpose of this study was to analyse different Taguchi-based techniques in the multi-response optimisation of selected industrial processes and then to generalise the outcomes. Herein, six different Taguchi-based multi-response optimisation techniques, including grey relational analysis (GRA), the weighted signal-to-noise (WSN) ratio, principal component analysis, VIKOR (VlseKriterijumska Optimizacija I Kompromisno Resenje), the multiple response signal-to-noise ratio, and Fuzzy logic were compared against three data sets of industrial processes. The researchers herein optimised cotton dyeing, the finishing of textile to make them oleo-hydrophobic, and the production of rhamnolipids (bio-surfactants). The results demonstrated that the Fuzzy logic-based Taguchi method gave the best optimisation amongst all the other approaches, followed by GRA and WSN for all the selected processes. The said statistical techniques were applied to specific textile and biotechnological processes. The outcomes of this study can help researchers in practical implementation in industrial sectors. In this study, a comparative analysis of the performances of six Taguchi-based multi-response optimisation techniques was conducted for potential industrial processes, particularly textile processing .
Causal Relationship of Market Orientation and Customer-Based Performance of Fashion Apparel Brands
Authors: Gul Rana Faizan , Liu Dunnan , Jamil Khalid , Hussain Zahid , Hussain Awan Fazal , Anwar Aliya , Qin Guangyu 
Published: April 2022

This study was conducted to determine the impact of market orientation on the consumer-based performance of fashion apparel brands. The study also reveals the moderating effect of employee orientation on market orientation and consumer-based performance. The sample of 270 respondents of this study consists of managerial staff who have decisive power with regard to apparel brands in Pakistan . The findings of this study express that all three dimensions of market orientation have a significant and positive impact on the consumer-based performance of fashion apparel brands. Furthermore, the study finds no moderation between customer orientation and consumer-based performance, while for the remaining two dimensions, there is a positive moderation. The management of fashion apparel firms must give considerable importance to market orientation to enhance overall consumer-based performance. This study contributes valuable literature because it focuses on the fashion apparel industry, which is most important for very nearly everyone in the present era.
Numerical Investigation of the Air Gap Distribution of Jackets with Different Fits and its Influence on Human Temperature
Authors: Awais Muhammad , Krzywinski Sybille , Kyosev Yordan 
Published: April 2022

The air gaps underneath clothing have a great influence on the thermal regulation of the human body. The distribution of the air gaps depends on the shape of the human body as well as on clothing style, fit, and deformation properties. This paper reports on the influence of clothing fit on thermophysiological parameters of the human body through thermal simulation. Four different fits of jacket and a test person were considered for the investigation and for simulation purposes. The results of the simulation concluded that different thermal regulations of the human body were exhibited for different fits of the jacket, which is due to distinct air gaps between the human body and clothing for each fit of the jacket. This research work presents a fast method to predict the influence of clothing fit on thermal comfort, which is usually studied by a time-consuming, laborious method – the wear trial.
Geographical Variation
Authors: Olvido Alexander E , Mousseau Timothy A 
Published: April 2022

AbstractGeographical variation refers to differences among populations in genetically based traits across the natural geographic range of a species. Understanding the factors that create and maintain geographical variation helps elucidate the causes of evolution. In the simplest case, we divide these factors into purely genetic versus environmental components to tease apart their relative contributions to observed phenotypic variation. Subsequent experiments allow us to partition further the genetic components of phenotypic variation towards a molecular understanding, hopefully to reveal the actual deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA)‐scale changes giving rise to observable adaptations. Studies of a select number of organisms – all of which begin with geographical variation – demonstrate this highly productive strategy. Given its relevance to genetic differentiation among populations, geographical variation also bears directly on the question of species origins.Key ConceptsGeographical variation is genetically based phenotypic variation across a species' natural range.Documenting geographical variation can reveal evolutionary factors at work.Geographical variation can be understood at the molecular level.Studies of biodiversity, from fruitflies to humans, highlight varied patterns of geographical variation.Geographical variation helps to illuminate that “mystery of mysteries”.
Applying the asymmetric information management technique to insurance claims
Authors: Porter Cody Normitta , Taylor Rachel , Harvey Adam Charles 
Published: April 2022

AbstractThis study investigates the Asymmetric Information Management (AIM) technique's ability to detect fraudulent insurance claims submitted online. The AIM instructions inform claimants that, inter alia, more detailed statements are easier to accurately classify as genuine or fabricated. To test this, truth tellers (n = 55) provided an honest statement about a lost or stolen item, while liars (n = 53) provided a false claim. All claimants were randomly assigned to either receive the control or AIM instructions. We found that truth tellers provided more information in the AIM condition (compared to the control condition), and discriminant analysis classificatory performance was improved slightly. Unfortunately, the AIM instructions had little effect on the amount of information liars provided. Thus, the AIM technique is useful for supporting truth tellers to be more detailed, but more work needs to be conducted to assess why liars in this study did not adapt a withholding strategy.
Underwater Directional and Continuous Manipulation of Gas Bubbles on Superaerophobic Magnetically Responsive Microcilia Array
Authors: Ben Shuang , Ning Yuzhen , Zhao Zhihong , Li Qiang , Zhang Xudong , Jiang Lei , Liu Kesong 
Published: April 2022

AbstractThe manipulation of underwater bubbles is of great significance in scientific research and industrial applications since they are ubiquitous and inevitable in production and life, for example, in agriculture and industry processes. Unfortunately, in an aqueous environment, the bubbles are mainly dominated by buoyancy and move upward, which makes the manipulation of bubbles difficult. To this end, numerous materials have been designed to manipulate bubbles. However, almost all of the existing materials are based on the superaerophilic surface, which has low controllability of bubble and cannot switch the transport velocity. Therefore, realizing the efficient, non‐destructive, and reversible manipulation of bubbles remains a great challenge. Herein, a novel strategy combining the superaerophobic wettability with magnetic response microcilia structure surface to achieve efficient, lossless, and reversible manipulation of bubbles is proposed. The surface can not only realize the non‐destructive manipulation of bubbles with different volumes, but also adjust the bubble transport velocity by adjusting the magnetic field. This study provides a reference for the application of bubbles in more fields and provides a basis for the development and research of expanding the application of microfluidic technology in the future.
Vertically Heterostructured Solid Electrolytes for Lithium Metal Batteries
Authors: He Fei , Hu Zhenglin , Tang Wenjing , Wang Aoxuan , Wen Bohua , Zhang Lan , Luo Jiayan 
Published: April 2022

AbstractSolid‐state electrolytes (SSEs) have been regarded as the most attractive candidate for safe and high‐energy lithium (Li) batteries of the next generation. However, the inability of current SSEs to keep up with the performance requirements of batteries is significantly affected by complex factors, especially ionic conductivity, mechanochemical properties, and coupled ion/electron reaction at the electrified interfaces. Strategies in solid electrolyte chemistries and technologies are put forward to overcome these challenges while widening the breadth of possible applications. Among them, vertically heterostructured solid‐state electrolytes (HSE) are constructed as a most promising strategy, which can take advantage of individual SSE layers together and rationalize the stability and compatibility of electrodes. This review comprehensively summarizes the specific features of the HSE based on the current knowledge of SSE failure modes. Additionally, a detailed review of the recent progress on the HSE design in terms of organic polymer electrolytes and inorganic electrolytes is generated. Finally, the advantages and drawbacks of the design strategies are discussed. New perspectives about HSE are proposed as well.
Self‐Assembled Artificial Nanocilia Actuators
Authors: Kang Minsu , Seong Minho , Lee Donghyuk , Kang Seong Min , Kwak Moon Kyu , Jeong Hoon Eui 
Published: April 2022

AbstractSelf‐assembly of nanoparticles (NPs) is a powerful route to constructing higher‐order structures. However, the programmed self‐assembly of NPs into non‐close‐packed, 3D, shape‐morphing nanocilia arrays remains elusive, whereas dynamically actuated nanometer cilia are universal in living systems. Here, a programmable self‐assembly strategy is presented that can direct magnetic NPs into a highly ordered responsive artificial nanocilia actuator with exquisite nanometer 3D structural arrangements. The self‐assembled artificial NP cilia can maintain their structural integrity through the interplay of interparticle interactions. Interestingly, the nanocilia can exhibit a field‐responsive actuation motion through “rolling and sliding” between assembled NPs rather than bending the entire ciliary beam. It is demonstrated that oleic acid coated over the NPs acts as a lubricating bearing and enables the rolling/sliding‐based actuation of the cilia.
Metal Oxide Nanosystems As Chemoresistive Gas Sensors for Chemical Warfare Agents: A Focused Review
Authors: Barreca Davide , Maccato Chiara , Gasparotto Alberto 
Published: April 2022

AbstractThe early and efficient detection of chemical warfare agents (CWAs), hazardous compounds resulting in fatal and irreversible health damages, is an issue of primary importance for security safeguard. Despite the efforts undertaken to date, the quest of lower detection limits, higher selectivity/stability, and faster recognition still represents a main bottleneck to effectively counteract such dreadful threats. This review aims at providing a survey on the developments undertaken in chemoresistive gas sensors based on metal oxide nanosystems for CWA recognition. The sensing mechanisms proposed in the literature, as well as the main reasons underlying the performance enhancement for functionalized/composite systems, are reviewed and discussed. The work summarizes key results achieved so far, and attempts to provide guidelines to overcome the main open problems. Efforts are devoted to delivering information on material properties/performance interplay, highlighting challenges in their fabrication and functional characterization. In fact, despite the advances made, a rational design and understanding of interfacial properties, as well as a perfect control over system growth, mandatory for commercial applications, are still missing. At the conclusion, a brief outlook on development prospects for future advancements is presented, endeavoring to provide a vision on the next necessary steps for an eventual technological implementation.